From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue Jul  1 06:14:16 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 08:14:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] Long Block Weight Needed-TR3/TR4
Message-ID: <d10.2cda9fcd.359b7998@cs.com>

List:

I need the approximate weight of a long block. Shipping race engine to London 
this week. No ancillaries and no fluids.

Thanks!

Joe Alexander
N197tr4 at cs.com   </HTML>

From jercurry at comcast.net  Tue Jul  1 22:07:51 2008
From: jercurry at comcast.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 22:07:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] It's Alive!!! (TR3)...but spin on oil filter adapter leaks
Message-ID: <E49BBDEAC2D14772B674AE0DB342AB9E@screamer>

Howdy all,

I had to share that my 57 TR3 started for the first time since 1969 today!!
After fixing a few fuel leaks the only problem is that it leaks a LOT of oil
between the spin-on oil filter adapter and the oil pump.  We tried removing
it and putting it back on to no avail.  Any ideas?

Also the (original) coil gets very hot.

thanks,
Jeremiah

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul  1 22:32:59 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 21:32:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] It's Alive!!! (TR3)...but spin on oil filter adapter leaks
In-Reply-To: <E49BBDEAC2D14772B674AE0DB342AB9E@screamer>
Message-ID: <20080702043259.YXSJ4229.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I had to share that my 57 TR3 started for the first time 
> since 1969 today!!
> After fixing a few fuel leaks the only problem is that it 
> leaks a LOT of oil between the spin-on oil filter adapter and 
> the oil pump.  We tried removing it and putting it back on to 
> no avail.  Any ideas?

First thing is to be certain there is only one gasket in the slot in the
original filter head.  It's very common for people to forget to remove the
old gasket and stick a second one in; the combination is sure to leak.
Remove the existing gasket and clean the groove until you can clearly see
white metal at the bottom of it.

There have also been some adapters on the market that are incorrectly
machined.  If you have one, the only cure is to modify it, or return it and
get another one.

> Also the (original) coil gets very hot.

They do get somewhat hot; but I suspect some of them have internal shorts
that make them get hotter than normal (and reduce the output).  Only cure is
a new coil.

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jul  2 09:03:20 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2008 15:03:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] FW: [Autojumble] Elizabeth and Fisher Jones
Message-ID: <070220081503.2670.486B98B8000CFB0400000A6E22165514069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

-------------- Forwarded Message: --------------
From: RampantNM at aol.com
To: autojumble at autox.team.net, vintage-race at autox.team.net
Subject: [Autojumble] Elizabeth and Fisher Jones
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 15:37:36 +0000
>  
> Fellow  LBCerbs, I received a phone call last night from Elizabeth Jones.  
> Her husband Fisher suffered a heart  attack this weekend and is in the hospital 
> in San Antonio.  Elizabeth is with him, and he is still  in coronary care, but 
> is alert and OK for the time being.  A catheterization will be performed as  
> soon as they are sure he is up to it. 
> Since  she is at his bedside, Elizabeth has no internet access, and has asked 
> me to  inform everyone that she must cancel the sale she had proposed for 
> this  weekend.  She apologizes to everyone  and will reschedule as soon as she 
> can. 
> Many  of her friends from the Spridget list were in transit, so she called me 
> as she  knew I wasnbt able to attend. 
> I ask  that you keep Fisher and Elizabeth in your prayers.  Ibm sure she will 
> be sending updates as  soon as she is able.
>  
> Regards,
> 
> Robert B. Houston
> 
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget
> 
> As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
> carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
> perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced 
> hands, 
> the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
> adjusted as
> described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
> fuel-efficient used cars.      
> (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Wed Jul  2 09:16:49 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 11:16:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Non-charging condition fixed.....at last
Message-ID: <2403BB8D-A172-47AF-9226-89DB8C6ED37A@comcast.net>

Auto electrics find me not playing to my strong suit. I just don't  
have the particular gene for it.

On reversing the polarity of my TR4 a few weeks ago, I found I now had  
a 'constantly-on' ignition light. I followed the directions for  
reversing polarity from the VTR Tech Section on their website, yet  
found I had somehow triggered this non-charging fault.

Working through the test methodologies described in the Lucas Fault  
Diagnosis Service Manual led me to suspect a short in the wiring,  
somewhere.

Between extended work trips, I have gone over every change I made,  
plus new battery cables and new ground strap to the block. I even went  
back to positive earth to see if I had a spurious connection from the  
DPO that was a non-issue with this polarity. I've tested my generator,  
I've made up sections of loom to try to isolate the fault, and cleaned  
the contacts on my control box. All to no avail. The red light  
continued, and bright too. Brighter than I remember it had ever glowed.

I traced every 'ignition light' thread in the TR archives. A couple of  
posters even reported what I found - that on changing polarity, the  
charging circuit failed. Though none reported what their solution was.  
I emailed a couple of folks from those threads (from the late 1990s),  
but their email addresses were no longer functional, so I never found  
out how they resolved their issues.

Today, a new Voltage Control Box arrived from TRF. I cleaned the  
contacts, installed it, and Bingo - the light's out! I look now at the  
old controller and can't see how it has failed, but it has.

Had this new control box not solved my issue, a modern alternator was  
my next step.

What might have caused my control box to fail: when I awoke a couple  
of days ago, I'd been dreaming about this issue, and I remembered that  
in the process to reverse polarity, I had for some reason switched on  
the ignition, and then was distracted. For a couple / few minutes, the  
ignition circuit was live, with the engine off. Perhaps this damaged  
the control box? Anyway, it's resolved now.

Man, I've missed driving this car. With a successful test drive...I'm  
taking my car to Philadelphia today, for the ceremony where I become,  
after 14 years here, a US Citizen.

Cheers, all.

Brian
TR4, 1963 CT 14455-L
Valley Forge, PA

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Jul  2 11:54:58 2008
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 10:54:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Positive to Starter Cable
Message-ID: <327622.53675.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I have a 1974 TR6 that I am trying to start after
it has sat for 20 years in a garage. I have been
troubleshooting the electrical to figure out why the
starter won't spin when you turn the key. I finally
got to the point where I found if I jumper out the
positive cable from the battery to the starter with a
jumper cable then the starter spins with the key
(telling me that the solenoid, relay and ignition
switch all work). The positive cable has some sort of
connectors in the middle of it with brown wires that
apparently run to the #2 terminal on the ignition
switch, to the alternator and to the starter relay.
The positive cable lights a test light at the starter
solenoid so it is getting some connectivity there.
     Can some TR6 electrician explain the connector in
the middle of the positive cable? Can a just make a
terminal block off of the positive terminal of the
battery and replace the funky factory cable with a
FLAPS one?
     MOSS has the positive cable listed as NLA.

     Bill Brewer - Tehachapi
     1960 TR3A
     1974 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul  2 12:24:49 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 11:24:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Positive to Starter Cable
In-Reply-To: <327622.53675.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <327622.53675.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <01fc01c8dc70$f26bfb70$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

>      Can some TR6 electrician explain the connector in
> the middle of the positive cable?

Just the way the factory chose to do it.  A cost-cutting measure, IMO.

>  Can a just make a
> terminal block off of the positive terminal of the
> battery and replace the funky factory cable with a
> FLAPS one?

Should be fine, though I've had some trouble finding a cable at my FLAPS
that fits the stud on the starter.  I'd suggest something like this
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml
for connecting the other wires together.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jul  2 14:44:09 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 16:44:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Positive to Starter Cable
Message-ID: <d2c.303af97f.359d4299@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/2/2008 12:55:10 PM Central Daylight Time, 
wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: 
>      I have a 1974 TR6 that I am trying to start after
> it has sat for 20 years in a garage. I have been
> troubleshooting the electrical to figure out why the
> starter won't spin when you turn the key. I finally
> got to the point where I found if I jumper out the
> positive cable from the battery to the starter with a
> jumper cable then the starter spins with the key
> (telling me that the solenoid, relay and ignition
> switch all work). 

The 74 model year had a seatbelt interlock.  All cars of that year had them.  
The concepts was so well received by the public that the law was changed the 
next year.  If the seat belt is not buckled but you are sitting in the seat, 
the starter will not engage.  The seatbelt module is mounted somewhere in the 
passenger footwell.  If you find it you can splice the white/red and 
white/orange wires together and bypass it.  Which is just how the 75 models were wired.


> 
> The positive cable has some sort of connectors in the middle of it with 
> brown wires that
> apparently run to the #2 terminal on the ignition
> switch, to the alternator and to the starter relay.
> The positive cable lights a test light at the starter
> solenoid so it is getting some connectivity there.
>      Can some TR6 electrician explain the connector in
> the middle of the positive cable? Can a just make a
> terminal block off of the positive terminal of the
> battery and replace the funky factory cable with a
> FLAPS one?

My guess is that putting the connectors several inches away from the battery 
evades the corrosive effects of the battery acid mist that was typical back in 
the 70's.  Modern batteries are less prone to this (and you can get sealed 
batteries like the Optima that have virtually none) so making the connection at 
the battery will work.  You may have to splice in extra length, however.

Dave

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul  2 21:05:27 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 22:05:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] car for sale
References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>
Message-ID: <006401c8dcb9$a9d94c70$e91f10ac@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

i apologize - this is totally off topic.

Triumph content:  if i get this car out of here i may get my TR3 back on the 
road!!!! 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  3 02:02:59 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 08:02:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] Non-charging condition fixed.....at last
In-Reply-To: <2403BB8D-A172-47AF-9226-89DB8C6ED37A@comcast.net>
References: <2403BB8D-A172-47AF-9226-89DB8C6ED37A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W18DBE5F8A4A22B6897EB24E5980@phx.gbl>

>The red light continued, and bright too. Brighter than I remember it had ever
glowed.

Fear not oh faint of heart, the bulb will burn out soon.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play chicktionary!
http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_feb

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Jul  3 16:43:30 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 18:43:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] what a blast!
Message-ID: <bfe.3f577600.359eb012@aol.com>

After seeing the pics of the 3A that was crushed by a truck in Toronto, I  
have decided that I am installing super loud horns on my 3A.  I have  selected a 
Wolo horn with an integrated compressor that really BLASTS.  It  is fairly 
discreet and can install out of the way.  The wiring recommended  for this thing 
is 16 gauge so I don't think I have problem there, however, there  are 
instructions to wire it one way if you are using the factory horn button and  to 
wire it another way with a relay if you are installing a secondary  button.  That 
tells me that they are assuming that the factory installed a  relay for the 
factory horns  (?).  Unless I am missing something big,  that is not the case 
with the 3A.  I have the 2 Bentley wiring diagram and  there is no horn relay 
and I have not found one on my 3A.  
To relay or not to relay. That is the question.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul  3 17:20:44 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 16:20:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] what a blast!
In-Reply-To: <bfe.3f577600.359eb012@aol.com>
References: <bfe.3f577600.359eb012@aol.com>
Message-ID: <022c01c8dd63$6bb2f450$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> To relay or not to relay. That is the question.

I would suggest adding both a relay and a suppression diode to reduce arcing
at the relay points.  The stock horns are quite loud, if they are properly
adjusted and you get enough current to them; but the horn contacts and the
wiring to them tend to limit the current available.

But you'll need to either find a 4-terminal relay, or alter the wiring to
the stock horns somewhat.  The 3 terminal relays (at least the ones I found)
assume that they have to supply 12v to the horns rather than grounding them.
And because the horns are highly inductive loads, you want a "horn" relay
with oversize contacts rather than a standard relay.

Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Jul  3 17:22:02 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 00:22:02 +0100
Subject: [TR] what a blast!
References: <bfe.3f577600.359eb012@aol.com>
Message-ID: <054801c8dd63$99b584d0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Relay it, for heaven's sake!!!!!!!

Jonmac

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 11:43 PM
Subject: [TR] what a blast!


> After seeing the pics of the 3A that was crushed by a truck in Toronto, I  
> have decided that I am installing super loud horns on my 3A.  I have  selected a 
> Wolo horn with an integrated compressor that really BLASTS.  It  is fairly 
> discreet and can install out of the way.  The wiring recommended  for this thing 
> is 16 gauge so I don't think I have problem there, however, there  are 
> instructions to wire it one way if you are using the factory horn button and  to 
> wire it another way with a relay if you are installing a secondary  button.  That 
> tells me that they are assuming that the factory installed a  relay for the 
> factory horns  (?).  Unless I am missing something big,  that is not the case 
> with the 3A.  I have the 2 Bentley wiring diagram and  there is no horn relay 
> and I have not found one on my 3A.  
> To relay or not to relay. That is the question.
> 
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
> 
> 
> 
> **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
> fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jul  3 18:16:09 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 00:16:09 +0000
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
Message-ID: <070420080016.4310.486D6BC9000DE37F000010D622155558849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Hello everyone.

The car is a '59 TR3A.

Both brake lights and fuel gauge not working.  

Power to the brake switch.  Wipers and Turn signals both work, so the connections to the fuse must be okay.

So question.  While the schematic shows the circuits for the fuel gauge and brake lights are separate, do they in reality share a common green power line, and is that where I should be seeking the open/short?

I could tear the wire harness apart to find out, but would prefer to isolate the section to do that.

As always, thank you all!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Jul  3 18:20:55 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 20:20:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] what a blast!
Message-ID: <cde.2e779a3d.359ec6e7@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/3/2008 6:24:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

Relay  it, for heaven's sake!!!!!!!


I am trying to avoid heaven, or whatever calling there might be for  me.  
That's why I am installing the horns.  
I have a four terminal relay as Randall suggested, so in it goes.
 
The installation of this thing calls for 16 gauge, as I said, but the stock  
uses 12 or larger with no relay.  Therefore, the question.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Jul  3 18:51:49 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 01:51:49 +0100
Subject: [TR] what a blast!
References: <cde.2e779a3d.359ec6e7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <057b01c8dd70$250c7c30$0201a8c0@Bevan>

David

In its day, Standard-Triumph did all sorts of things to save money - and one
of them was putting in heavy gauge cable to supply something in which a relay
would have been a more sensible option. The same goes for lighting and the
ancient column switches that many are still using. These switches have been
failing for a long time now because they were never expected to last more than
10 years at the most. After decades of arcing, they finally surrender.
However, if more relays were included by restorers (amateur and professional
alike) I think we would see fewer problems of that sort. Of course, many will
claim that the installation of relays when none were there originally,
destroys claims of originality. Speaking purely for myself, I'd rather have a
car that is well restored and cared for which shows the addition of extra
equipment to prolong component working life, rather than replicate a
specification that came about because the company was too cheapskate to
install as original equipment :)

Cheers, Jonmac


    Relay it, for heaven's sake!!!!!!!
  I am trying to avoid heaven, or whatever calling there might be for me.
That's why I am installing the horns.
  I have a four terminal relay as Randall suggested, so in it goes.

  The installation of this thing calls for 16 gauge, as I said, but the stock
uses 12 or larger with no relay.  Therefore, the question.

  David Lylis
  69 TR6 CC26160L
  60 TR3A TS74461LO





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jul  3 19:07:39 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 21:07:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] 2008 VENTURA  BRITISH CAR SHOW - July 27th - Oxnard
Message-ID: <12695944.1215133659705.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

The Central Coast British Car Club Presents:

THE EIGHTEENTH ANNUAL VENTURA COUNTY BRITISH CAR SHOW

Channel Islands Harbour   *  July 27th, 2008

Join us for a great afternoon at our wonderful waterfront location at the
Channel Islands Harbour. This year we are honoring the Austin Healey marque,
featuring the 50th anniversary of the Bugeye Sprite.

There will be food, entertainment, vendors, and a swap meet and some of the
finest British Cars in Southern California.

Oxnard is but a short and lovely drive up the coast from Los Angeles b Come
to Oxnard, enjoy the show, enjoy the ride, be back by supper b SEE YOU
THERE!!!


Website:

www.centralcoastbritishcarclub.com

INFORMATION:
Gary Rice     (805) 644-3290  <gary.rice at worldnet.att.net)
Dave Wellwood (805) 469-7842  <dswellwood at hotmail.com>
Bill Guzman   (805) 484-1528  <BG.GTV6 at verizon.net>

*******************************************************

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Jul  3 19:25:41 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 21:25:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] what a blast!
Message-ID: <d4e.2ea6a789.359ed615@aol.com>

Jonmac,
Maybe you, and/or Randall (if he picks up on this) can help me out  here.
I have a green/purple wire that comes down the stator tube that provides  the 
ground for the horns.  Each of the horns has a large brown/green  (power) and 
brown/black (connects the horns together).  The way this is set  up seems to 
indicate that there is a relay as the green/purple is the only wire  to the 
horn button and competes the circuit when grounded (pushed).  How  does this 
green/purple wire connect to the brown/green, brown/black, if there is  no relay. 
 Is it just a direct connection?
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Jul  3 20:51:29 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2008 22:51:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Calf. Fires
Message-ID: <009001c8dd80$dc8e6110$96467247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Watching the evening news about the wildfires all over Calf. and the announcer
made a comment the fires were headed in the direction of "Goleta", sure hope
Moss Motors and it's employees are out of harm's way.  "FT"

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul  3 21:36:22 2008
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 20:36:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Calf. Fires
In-Reply-To: <009001c8dd80$dc8e6110$96467247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <009001c8dd80$dc8e6110$96467247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <042E4E37-0476-4A14-B2B6-2987B185981C@sbcglobal.net>

I can't speak to the location of the employees homes but the Moss  
facility was/still is(?) on the ocean side of highway 101 which  
provides a pretty substantial fire break. I live near Santa Cruz  
California and we have had two wildfires near our house. One was close  
enough that we moved the dogs, car, pictures, and important papers to  
a safer location. Everything is really dry. I was talking to a  
firefighter and he said that the brush covering the hillsides had a  
moisture content of 14%. Normally the moisture content is around 40%.  
It is going to be a long summer.
Mike Denman

On Jul 3, 2008, at 7:51 PM, FRED E THOMAS wrote:

> Watching the evening news about the wildfires all over Calf. and the  
> announcer
> made a comment the fires were headed in the direction of "Goleta",  
> sure hope
> Moss Motors and it's employees are out of harm's way.  "FT"
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From trhouse at greenapple.com  Thu Jul  3 23:09:46 2008
From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 01:09:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Stolen LBC (Central Ohio) Recovered
In-Reply-To: <d39.2f88f309.35967af8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C49328DA.4E26%trhouse@greenapple.com>

on 6/27/08 1:18 PM, REK46 at aol.com at REK46 at aol.com wrote:

I sent a copy to Scott Harper at Team Triumph too....he gets a lot of parts
and car strips calls, in Warren,Ohio


**************
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.
     (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

The stolen Sprite was recovered in Zanesville Ohio ( about an hour away).
Where it sat for a week or so... Out of Gas. Thanks to all who Kept a look
out...

tom 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Jul  4 04:52:16 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 11:52:16 +0100
Subject: [TR] what a blast!
References: <d4e.2ea6a789.359ed615@aol.com>
Message-ID: <05a001c8ddc4$067f6580$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Sorry David - I'll willingly pass this over to Randall's unquestionable
knowledge. I don't have a TR wiring diagram anyway and electrics as a whole
are not one of my 'stronger' points. Good luck

Jonmac
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: DLylis at aol.com
  To: standardtriumph at btinternet.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 2:25 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] what a blast!


  Jonmac,
  Maybe you, and/or Randall (if he picks up on this) can help me out here.
  I have a green/purple wire that comes down the stator tube that provides the
ground for the horns.  Each of the horns has a large brown/green (power) and
brown/black (connects the horns together).  The way this is set up seems to
indicate that there is a relay as the green/purple is the only wire to the
horn button and competes the circuit when grounded (pushed).  How does this
green/purple wire connect to the brown/green, brown/black, if there is no
relay.  Is it just a direct connection?
  David Lylis
  69 TR6 CC26160L
  60 TR3A TS74461LO





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  4 06:09:29 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 05:09:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] what a blast!
In-Reply-To: <d4e.2ea6a789.359ed615@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080704120930.JJPY10970.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I have a green/purple wire that comes down the stator tube 
> that provides  the ground for the horns.

Are you sure it's the right wire?  Should be brown/black; and also
noticeably heavier gauge wire than the turn signal connections.

> How  does this green/purple wire connect 
> to the brown/green, brown/black, if there is  no relay. 

The wire from the control head connects to the brown/black to both horns;
and grounds it when the button is pushed.  Thus both horns see 12v across
their terminals only when the button is pushed.

HTH
Randall

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of TR3A-B schematic Dan Masters reduced.gif]

From jmitch at snet.net  Fri Jul  4 06:25:23 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 08:25:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster
Message-ID: <486E16B3.20207@snet.net>

    Hi,  My 76 TR6 has a brake booster that measures about 7.5" in 
diameter.  I have also seen boosters that are about 6.5" in diameter.  
Was more than booster type used and what would be correct for my 76.  
Thanks for any help.   John Mitchell

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  4 06:55:16 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 05:55:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <070420080016.4310.486D6BC9000DE37F000010D622155558849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080704125516.DRHN7689.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Both brake lights and fuel gauge not working.  
> 
> Power to the brake switch.

Assuming that's not a typo, it suggests the problem with the brake lights is
not one of power not getting to the switch.  Recheck using a helper to hold
the pedal down, then check the load side of the switch.  I had a lot of
switches fail, before I converted to a mechanically operated switch mounted
on the pedal box.

>  Wipers and Turn signals both 
> work, so the connections to the fuse must be okay.

The later TR3s had all separate wires to the 'green' terminals of the fuse
block, and all TR2-3 had a jumper between two terminals at the fuse block.
So, the connections could be loose/broken, or the jumper loose/broken; and
it would only affect some of the 'green circuit' items.

> So question.  While the schematic shows the circuits for the 
> fuel gauge and brake lights are separate, do they in reality 
> share a common green power line, and is that where I should 
> be seeking the open/short?

Nope, those wires join only at the fuse block.

> I could tear the wire harness apart to find out, 

Strictly a last resort.  At the very least, I would verify that there is
power in the wire (by piercing the insulation with a sharp probe) at one end
and not at the other end; before tearing into the harness.

Please note that Occam's Razor does NOT always apply ... sometimes there
really are multiple problems that just happen to occur (or get noticed) at
the same time.

Randall

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Fri Jul  4 07:40:41 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 09:40:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tool set special I saw at Sears...
Message-ID: <000c01c8dddb$8dbd2a20$b64d7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Thanks to the "Ohio T/R club


Sears has Craftsman 245 pc. Mechanics Tool Set in 3-Drawer Chest with easy to
read sockets for $138 - $5 coupon SDEALS197 = $133.



You won't see the special price till you add it to your shopping cart - be
sure to use the extra $5 coupon



Thought tools would be an appropriate use of the mailing list



Bruce

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Fri Jul  4 08:45:22 2008
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 10:45:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tool set special I saw at Sears...
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8dddb$8dbd2a20$b64d7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <000c01c8dddb$8dbd2a20$b64d7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <486E3782.4000200@frontiernet.net>

Fred, the web site shows that the price is $170.89. With the $5 coupon 
code, it's $165.89.

George Richardson



fred thomas wrote:
> Thanks to the "Ohio T/R club
>
>
> Sears has Craftsman 245 pc. Mechanics Tool Set in 3-Drawer Chest with easy to
> read sockets for $138 - $5 coupon SDEALS197 = $133.
>
>
>
> You won't see the special price till you add it to your shopping cart - be
> sure to use the extra $5 coupon
>
>
>
> Thought tools would be an appropriate use of the mailing list
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as gprtech at frontiernet.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jholmgren at advertising.com  Fri Jul  4 08:46:00 2008
From: jholmgren at advertising.com (Jim Holmgren)
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 10:46:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tool set special I saw at Sears...
In-Reply-To: <486E3782.4000200@frontiernet.net>
References: <000c01c8dddb$8dbd2a20$b64d7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
	<486E3782.4000200@frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106C12CB9C9@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>

According to some of the 'hot deal' websites, it looks like the deal was
pulled sometime late last night.  Bummer.


Jim

'68 Spitfire Mk3
'75 Spitfire 1500
'77 Spitfire 1500
NASS #302
York, PA
www.littlebluespitfire.com



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+jholmgren=advertising.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+jholmgren=advertising.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of George Richardson
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 10:45 AM
To: fred thomas
Cc: triumphs; Shop-Talk Mailing List
Subject: Re: [TR] Tool set special I saw at Sears...

Fred, the web site shows that the price is $170.89. With the $5 coupon
code, it's $165.89.

George Richardson



The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s)
or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or
privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use
of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or
entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this
email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email
from any computer.

From rhelman at gmail.com  Fri Jul  4 09:53:39 2008
From: rhelman at gmail.com (Roger Helman)
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 09:53:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] Free Pre 74 TR6 Block
In-Reply-To: <779de48e0807040852k206eb59atb5e394d694d9ed8b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <779de48e0807040852k206eb59atb5e394d694d9ed8b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <779de48e0807040853l24e4003bx9846fd245b045f2e@mail.gmail.com>

I have a TR6 Block free to a good home.

The Block is in great shape.

The crank that is it needs work. The slot hold the harmonic balancer is
enlarged.

It goes to be recycled next week if there are no takers

I live in American Fork Utah


Happy July 4th.

-- 
Roger Helman
rhelman at gmail.com

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Jul  4 10:21:55 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 16:21:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
Message-ID: <070420081621.11562.486E4E23000B96AB00002D2A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Good coffee, good advice, and a fresh morning's perspective.  Beautiful day without snow, flies or rain in New Hampshire.  

So, while my cheap multi-meter had been showing voltage out of the load side of the switch, it apparently wasn't enough.  I did see a drop from the power side to the load side, but didn't know how much the switch might drain, though it shouldn't have drained any.

Anyway, I just bypassed the switch altogether and had an abruptly healthy circuit all the way back to the brake lights.   This was a new switch installed during the restoration, so am with you, Randall, and am going to rig a mechanical switch to the pedal box.

Thanks for your help again.  I think I started off owing you a coffee three years ago.  Two years ago, it was a box of Joe.  What the heck have  I run my tab up to by now????  

Oh, I know.  A gallon of gasoline!

Terry

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> 

> 
> > Both brake lights and fuel gauge not working. 
> > 
> > Power to the brake switch. 
> 
> Assuming that's not a typo, it suggests the problem with the brake lights is 
> not one of power not getting to the switch. Recheck using a helper to hold 
> the pedal down, then check the load side of the switch. I had a lot of 
> switches fail, before I converted to a mechanically operated switch mounted 
> on the pedal box. 
> 
> > Wipers and Turn signals both 
> > work, so the connections to the fuse must be okay. 
> 
> The later TR3s had all separate wires to the 'green' terminals of the fuse 
> block, and all TR2-3 had a jumper between two terminals at the fuse block. 
> So, the connections could be loose/broken, or the jumper loose/broken; and 
> it would only affect some of the 'green circuit' items. 
> 
> > So question. While the schematic shows the circuits for the 
> > fuel gauge and brake lights are separate, do they in reality 
> > share a common green power line, and is that where I should 
> > be seeking the open/short? 
> 
> Nope, those wires join only at the fuse block. 
> 
> > I could tear the wire harness apart to find out, 
> 
> Strictly a last resort. At the very least, I would verify that there is 
> power in the wire (by piercing the insulation with a sharp probe) at one end 
> and not at the other end; before tearing into the harness. 
> 
> Please note that Occam's Razor does NOT always apply ... sometimes there 
> really are multiple problems that just happen to occur (or get noticed) at 
> the same time. 
> 
> Randall 

From peterara at msn.com  Fri Jul  4 12:49:23 2008
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 11:49:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <BAY114-DAV12B0F9A08AE232CAEE6446C19B0@phx.gbl>

>Watching the evening news about the wildfires all over Calf. and the
announcer
made a comment the fires were headed in the direction of "Goleta", sure hope
Moss Motors and it's employees are out of harm's way.  "FT"


We are doing fine.
Power went out on Wednesday night when the fire burned through some power
lines, but were up by Thursday morning.  Fires are about 3 miles away.  I know
it sounds close - and if the winds, which are usually off shore and strong in
the evenings, but haven't been, pick up it will be trouble - but the distance
is relative.  the mountains are very close to the cities.
We watch and wait.
Brush fires are a normal part of this area.  Most residents are prepared.  and
the fire crews are VERY good.

Thanks for the concern, Fred.

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

From peterara at msn.com  Fri Jul  4 13:08:42 2008
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 12:08:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Santa Barbara Fire
Message-ID: <BAY114-DAV994D50FE0485FD404FCBCC19B0@phx.gbl>

For those of you interested, the link will get you to some pix.  A lot of
people shots, but some good views of the fire, too.

http://www.zinkwazi.com/greg/trips/phpslideshow.php?directory=2008_gap_fire<h
ttp://www.zinkwazi.com/greg/trips/phpslideshow.php?directory=2008_gap_fire>


Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Jul  4 15:15:34 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 17:15:34 EDT
Subject: [TR] what a blast!
Message-ID: <c6e.223a394d.359fecf6@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/4/2008 7:09:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

Are you  sure it's the right wire?  Should be brown/black; and also
noticeably  heavier gauge wire than the turn signal  connections.



Absolutely.  I grounded my battery and connected this  green/purple to the 
positive terminal thorough my test lamp.  When I push  the horn button, the 
light lights.  The diagram says brown/black, but none  of the wires in my stator 
tube match what the diagram says.  They all look  like British wires, just the 
wrong colors.
 
That helps a lot, thanks.  I think I have it all figured out using the  horn 
button and the relay.  If this thing is as loud as they say it is, you  should 
hear it about 9 am PT.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Jul  4 17:26:47 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 23:26:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <070420082326.653.486EB1B7000C7BA30000028D22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Ahh.  All is well in New Hampshire

To defeat a corrupt hydraulic brake switch, I went to Autozone around noon, picked 
up a mechanical brake switch.  Came home ready to do battle and fabricate some 
sort of bracket to hold it in the pedal box.  ...But, huh--go figure.  Something went 
easy.  All I had to do was drill a bigger hole in the adjustment access hole in the box,
insert the switch, find the right adjustment, and Voila! Ran wires from the harness 
at the old hydraulic brake switch to the new mechanical one, and the brakes work 
like they're supposed to.  Since I wired all four backlights (parking lights and brake 
lights) for brake lights, I now re-have a string of four bright brake lights to alert the 
morons who dare to tailgate a guy who, driving with the top down, spits straight into 
the air as a preliminary warning.

But Wait, There's More!  This is the Ginsu Knife of Independence Days!

I'd been having trouble with idle dropping slowly to finally stall mode.  I'd played
with the vacuum advance and with the idle speed screw, but, alas, no avail.

Able to spend some time today replacing small rubber sections of fuel lines,
I noticed the forward float bowl was leaking at the bottomrubber seals I'd 
replaced several weeks ago.   Broke it down and reinstalled with a washer, 
that had been missing originally, and Voila!  No more leak!  Idle maintains 
steady at about 700.  Could be a few hundred higher, but  no need as long as 
it stays steady.

But Wait, There's More!

Car buttoned up, the tall bottle of Coors fresh from the freezer, the beer 
just barely slushy when I popped the top, I sat on the back steps in the cool
of the evening to admire my work.  No rain.  No bugs.  And the Red Sox 
just beat the Yankees for the second night in a row despite a squishy Cocoa
Crisp trapped flyball call from an umpire (but no complaints...no instant replay 
in baseball and that's as it should be).

Does life get any better?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Jul  4 17:35:55 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 19:35:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <070420082326.653.486EB1B7000C7BA30000028D22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <486E7B9B.18800.5C0B4E0@localhost>

On 4 Jul 2008 at 23:26, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

> But, huh--go figure.  Something went easy.

Well, Terry, they say whenever you have a 50/50 chance of something 
going wrong, 9 times out of 10 it will.  So you've had a very good 
day indeed!

> Does life get any better?

No it doesn't!

Happy and safe 4th, and the rest of the weekend too.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Fri Jul  4 21:17:18 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 22:17:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Miata seats for TR's
Message-ID: <200807050317.m653HORx440655@ns3.geneseo.net>

This message for all who have expressed interest in installing Miata 
seats in their street cars --

I installed Miata seats in my street TR6 two years ago. They were 
cheaper than rebuilding the stock seats, they transformed the comfort 
level of the car and they look good!

However, the installation was difficult because of the difference in 
mounting to the floor.

Because of the high level of interest on the Triumph lists, I will be 
offering a kit that makes the conversion really easy.

The pre-production run is complete, parts are powder coated, and 
sample parts are on their way to two owners for trial installation. 
The kit will include adapter brackets and hardware necessary for the 
installation. Price for the kit will be $59.95.

The kit should be available for sale in a couple of weeks.


uncle jack 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Jul  5 01:35:31 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 07:35:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] Miata seats for TR's
In-Reply-To: <200807050317.m653HORx440655@ns3.geneseo.net>
References: <200807050317.m653HORx440655@ns3.geneseo.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W444620DDCE5C8224002B66E59A0@phx.gbl>

Is the kit designed for early Miata seats and pre 60,000 TR3As?

Best regards,
Tom

> Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 22:17:18 -0500
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net
> Subject: [TR] Miata seats for TR's
>
> This message for all who have expressed interest in installing Miata
> seats in their street cars --
>
> I installed Miata seats in my street TR6 two years ago. They were
> cheaper than rebuilding the stock seats, they transformed the comfort
> level of the car and they look good!
>
> However, the installation was difficult because of the difference in
> mounting to the floor.
>
> Because of the high level of interest on the Triumph lists, I will be
> offering a kit that makes the conversion really easy.
>
> The pre-production run is complete, parts are powder coated, and
> sample parts are on their way to two owners for trial installation.
> The kit will include adapter brackets and hardware necessary for the
> installation. Price for the kit will be $59.95.
>
> The kit should be available for sale in a couple of weeks.
>
>
> uncle jack
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Its a talkathon  but its not just talk.
http://www.imtalkathon.com/?source=EML_WLH_Talkathon_JustTalk

From maya2blue at juno.com  Sat Jul  5 09:52:57 2008
From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 10:52:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] fyi - oil filter adapter 5/8" TO 3/4"
Message-ID: <20080705.105257.3356.1.maya2blue@juno.com>

a recent subject of discussion on the lists....

fyi ...   eBay item   270252640606

nfi .... etc etc 

harve


Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Click here for great computer networking solutions!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oHgMShvrg3GOFPnZffE3SkQx7TftEd1u2l2jkuedSKIU79n/

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Jul  5 10:16:42 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 09:16:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits] fyi - oil filter adapter 5/8" TO 3/4"
In-Reply-To: <20080705.105257.3356.1.maya2blue@juno.com>
References: <20080705.105257.3356.1.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <000001c8deba$8342b710$0202a8c0@newcomputer>

I am totally amazed.  Buy it now for $7.99 and pay another $6.80 to ship
something that you can pick up at any British Wrecking yard for virtually
nothing.

Spitbits has it listed in their on-line catalog for $4.31.

 
https://store.digitaloutlook.com/Store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=63&Product_ID=13057
&CATID=154

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
maya2blue at juno.com
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 8:53 AM
To: nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com;
spitfires at autox.team.net; SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com;
spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] fyi - oil filter adapter 5/8" TO 3/4"

a recent subject of discussion on the lists....

fyi ...   eBay item   270252640606

nfi .... etc etc 

harve


Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Click here for financial aid options.  Quick and Easy.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oIGkRZo7XBzVlEZFvNU96dSYB
YrJ3O0HnjeFmR0Fus55fyY/
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Sat Jul  5 10:34:56 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 11:34:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Spits] fyi - oil filter adapter 5/8" TO 3/4"
References: <20080705.105257.3356.1.maya2blue@juno.com>
	<000001c8deba$8342b710$0202a8c0@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <83B8A6D45FFA40C58167B7CB011B1C71@KARL>

It's also in the WIX catalog - any FLAPS that carries WIX filters 
(definitely NAPA and Carquest) can order it for you.  I paid about $4 for 
one a month ago, including Cook County Illinois sales tax - now the highest 
in the nation.

Karl


>I am totally amazed.  Buy it now for $7.99 and pay another $6.80 to ship
> something that you can pick up at any British Wrecking yard for virtually
> nothing.
>
> Spitbits has it listed in their on-line catalog for $4.31.
>
>
> https://store.digitaloutlook.com/Store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=63&Product_ID=13057
> &CATID=154
>
> Joe C.
>
>> Subject: [Spits] fyi - oil filter adapter 5/8" TO 3/4"
>
> a recent subject of discussion on the lists....
>
> fyi ...   eBay item   270252640606
>
> nfi .... etc etc
>
> harve
>
>
> Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
> 531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
> Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
> 72701 USA
> 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg

From maya2blue at juno.com  Sat Jul  5 10:57:09 2008
From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 11:57:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Spits] fyi - oil filter adapter 5/8" TO 3/4"
Message-ID: <20080705.115709.4032.1.maya2blue@juno.com>

Hey Joe!!  

You are sooo right.....  The SLP 178  sells for $4.31 and ships for $7.10
- total of $11.41.  Sure beats $14.79 from eBay

It pays to shop around... as usual!

Caveat emptor!! 

harve

Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg

On Sat, 5 Jul 2008 09:16:42 -0700 "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net> writes:
> I am totally amazed.  Buy it now for $7.99 and pay another $6.80 to
ship
> something that you can pick up at any British Wrecking yard for 
virtually nothing.
> 
> Spitbits has it listed in their on-line catalog for $4.31.
> 
>  
>
https://store.digitaloutlook.com/Store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=63&Product_ID=13
057
> &CATID=154
> 
> Joe C.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf 
> Of
> maya2blue at juno.com
> Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 8:53 AM
> To: nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com;
> spitfires at autox.team.net; SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com;
> spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; 
> Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com;
> triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Spits] fyi - oil filter adapter 5/8" TO 3/4"
> 
> a recent subject of discussion on the lists....
> 
> fyi ...   eBay item   270252640606
> 
> nfi .... etc etc 
> 
> harve
> 
> 
> Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
> 531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
> Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
> 72701 USA 
> 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here for financial aid options.  Quick and Easy.
>
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oIGkRZo7XBzVlEZFvNU96d
SYB
> YrJ3O0HnjeFmR0Fus55fyY/
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Jul  5 11:56:36 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 13:56:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] The Ole Lady is Done! Name the Parts
Message-ID: <c1b.365ed8dc.35a10fd4@aol.com>

Hey Listers,
Just came back from Classic Restorations and after 2 years my Powder Blue  
TR3B is done.  Well, just a few items left like paint on the Bonnet, but  done 
enough that she will be ready for the 08 VTR NATC in Michigan.  No  small task 
here for if you remember she was supposed to be done for last year's  VTR in 
Valley Forge. Takes time for a frame off total rebuild even when you  start 
with a good car, she was a former TRA Best in Show & VTR  Preservation class 
example.
 
I took her for a spin, really w/o the bonnet and all is well as she ran  like 
never before, smooth as silk. The OD gearbox is even holding oil  thanks to 
the new adaptor plate recommended by several Listers, THANKS! I had  everything 
you need: Fuel---Positive Amps---Oil Pressure---185 Temperature. Life  is 
Good!
 
Just one more thing, Terry showed me these two little wooden blocks.   They 
have one hole drilled in them which is countersunk for a holding  screw.  They 
have one rounded edge and a little Powder Blue over spray on  them.  Where the 
heck do these go?
Thanks,
Darrell
62 TR3B  TCF 2645 LO  The Ole Lady



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Sat Jul  5 12:12:08 2008
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 11:12:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] The Ole Lady is Done! Name the Parts
Message-ID: <324094.97388.qm@web81303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Darrell---those small (2"=/-) wood blocks go on the "elbow rail" right next to
the capping piece that has the semi "S" curve above the "dog leg".  One of
the two short pieces of the rear capping mount over them.  You might be able
to see this in the service manual (body) or the parts manual where
instructions for mounting the hardtop are found.  Good luck!
Dan

 Planning &
Development Services
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673 



----- Original Message
----
From: "TR250Driver at aol.com" <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, July 5, 2008 1:56:36 PM
Subject: [TR]
The Ole Lady is Done! Name the Parts

Hey Listers,
Just came back from Classic
Restorations and after 2 years my Powder Blue  
TR3B is done.  Well, just a
few items left like paint on the Bonnet, but  done 
enough that she will be
ready for the 08 VTR NATC in Michigan.  No  small task 
here for if you
remember she was supposed to be done for last year's  VTR in 
Valley Forge.
Takes time for a frame off total rebuild even when you  start 
with a good
car, she was a former TRA Best in Show & VTR  Preservation class 
example.

I
took her for a spin, really w/o the bonnet and all is well as she ran  like
never before, smooth as silk. The OD gearbox is even holding oil  thanks to
the new adaptor plate recommended by several Listers, THANKS! I had 
everything 
you need: Fuel---Positive Amps---Oil Pressure---185 Temperature.
Life  is 
Good!

Just one more thing, Terry showed me these two little wooden
blocks.  They 
have one hole drilled in them which is countersunk for a
holding  screw.  They 
have one rounded edge and a little Powder Blue over
spray on  them.  Where the 
heck do these go?
Thanks,
Darrell
62 TR3B  TCF
2645 LO  The Ole Lady



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL
Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.     
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as
adcronin at ameritech.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Jul  5 14:27:35 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 16:27:35 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Name the Parts Take Two
Message-ID: <bdc.2db99188.35a13337@aol.com>

OK,
Now that we have identified those wood blocks.  What does the List say  about 
the seat belt hardware in the inner rear fenders? The Ole Lady had some  
really wrong looking sort of square plates for reinforcing? Would big round  
washers be more appropriate? 
 
Does anybody know what size  rubber fuel line hose will allow a  compression 
fit on TR'S.  If so where can it be had?  Although they  are allowed, being a 
purist I just hate all these goofy looking clamps  everywhere. I got the good 
stuff that fit from Moss years ago, I not sure they  still provide it.  It 
anyone wants to know I ran my TR3B for 15 years w/o  any clamps on the fuel lines 
as original w/o leaking.
 
On the subject of clamps and the original Triumph type, why do all the  
repros seem to be to big? You have to max out the screw then hope that it does  not 
leak?  Is it the clamp or is it the size of the repro hoses? This  is 
especially a problem on the small hoses.  Sometimes the opposite is in  effect and 
the repros are not big enough. Certainly differences exist from  the originals. 
Sorry supplier type folks this is major a "Piss Off " to  me!
 
Which side should the spacers for the springs of the rear suspension  be on?  
I am going to say drivers side.
 
Once I get her back I will most likely have a few other issues,
Thanks,
Darrell



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul  5 15:51:09 2008
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 17:51:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Part needed
Message-ID: <AMEPLGDBBNPBELGKPOHEOEEFCBAA.dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>

Triumphant Ones,

In the process of finally replacing the speedo cable in my Spit,
I lost one of the brackets that hold the speedo in place. I don't
see them listed as separate items in any of the parts books. Does
anyone have an extra that they could sell me?

I can isolate the part in the part breakdowns if you aren't sure
about the part I need.

Thanks in advance,

Doug

--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Sat Jul  5 16:17:08 2008
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 15:17:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Name the Parts Take Two
Message-ID: <39329.91678.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Check out Maceys garage website, one of the list members.
Dan

 Planning &
Development Services
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673



----- Original Message
----
From: "TR250Driver at aol.com" <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, July 5, 2008 4:27:35 PM
Subject: [TR]
TR3 Name the Parts Take Two

OK,
Now that we have identified those wood
blocks.  What does the List say  about 
the seat belt hardware in the inner
rear fenders? The Ole Lady had some  
really wrong looking sort of square
plates for reinforcing? Would big round  
washers be more appropriate? 

Does
anybody know what size  rubber fuel line hose will allow a  compression 
fit
on TR'S.  If so where can it be had?  Although they  are allowed, being a
purist I just hate all these goofy looking clamps  everywhere. I got the good
stuff that fit from Moss years ago, I not sure they  still provide it.  It
anyone wants to know I ran my TR3B for 15 years w/o  any clamps on the fuel
lines 
as original w/o leaking.

On the subject of clamps and the original
Triumph type, why do all the  
repros seem to be to big? You have to max out
the screw then hope that it does  not 
leak?  Is it the clamp or is it the
size of the repro hoses? This  is 
especially a problem on the small hoses. 
Sometimes the opposite is in  effect and 
the repros are not big enough.
Certainly differences exist from  the originals. 
Sorry supplier type folks
this is major a "Piss Off " to  me!

Which side should the spacers for the
springs of the rear suspension  be on?  
I am going to say drivers side.

Once
I get her back I will most likely have a few other issues,
Thanks,
Darrell
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.     
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as
adcronin at ameritech.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul  5 18:36:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 17:36:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Name the Parts Take Two
In-Reply-To: <bdc.2db99188.35a13337@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080706003658.NNFB27427.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Does anybody know what size  rubber fuel line hose will allow 
> a  compression fit on TR'S.

I just measured a fitting on both a HS6 and an H6 SU; both are slightly
larger than 1/4" (.255").  So at least in theory, a 1/4" id tube should grip
it.

I'm dubious though ... the original lines were natural rubber, I believe,
which is rather more sticky, and swells slightly when exposed to gasoline.
However, it will not stand up to today's fuels (particularly the ethanol now
mandated for the entire US); so modern fuel lines are made of nitrile rubber
(eg, Buna-N) which is harder, less sticky, and does not swell.

>  If so where can it be had?  

Not tried it myself, but P/N 5394K16 from
http://www.mcmaster.com/
looks like it might work, and be at least somewhat similar to the original
hose.

> Although they  are allowed, being a purist I just hate all 
> these goofy looking clamps  everywhere.

Just a thought, one or two turns of SS safety wire, which you can then twist
and turn so the twisted section is not visible, might be more esthetically
pleasing.

> Which side should the spacers for the springs of the rear 
> suspension  be on?  
> I am going to say drivers side.

I respectfully disagree.  The spacer is to lower the passenger side, so the
car sits more nearly level with only a driver.  Since the spring runs under
the axle, the spacer lowers the side it's on.  Hence it goes on the
passenger side.

Randall

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sat Jul  5 20:17:13 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 19:17:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] what a blast!
In-Reply-To: <c6e.223a394d.359fecf6@aol.com>
References: <c6e.223a394d.359fecf6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C59B9A4AB4504D7D89D3FE97C67CDF2B@GeoPC>

My recollection is that Green/Purple was the correct color for the brake 
lights... and it would have been a fairly wimpy gauge.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] what a blast!


> Absolutely.  I grounded my battery and connected this  green/purple to the
> positive terminal thorough my test lamp.  When I push  the horn button, 
> the
> light lights. 

From tr6driver at earthlink.net  Sat Jul  5 20:18:57 2008
From: tr6driver at earthlink.net (Jamie Palmer)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 22:18:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question about G Prepared Spitfire autocrossing...
Message-ID: <380-2200870621857669@earthlink.net>

OK...Major lurker but seldom poster here looking for some assistance.

>From what I can tell from the SCCA rules, the Spit 1500 is handicapped in G Prepared Solo II rules in that it can only have a Stromberg 150 or 1-1/2" SU without a 10% weight penalty (and multiple carbs are forbidden period).  

Yeah, I know, the hot ticket would be to go with a Mk. III or Mk. IV that can have the twin SU's without penalty and are lighter to boot.

However, I picked up a $100 solid '76 1500 today (thanks, Craigslist) and have started thinking...I miss my old '71 autocrosser and was thinking I could have some fun.

Is anyone campaigning a 1500 in G-Prepared?  Would like to hear from other Spit owners in G-Prepared, too...

Thanks for any assistance!


Jamie Palmer
tr6driver at earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sat Jul  5 20:21:59 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 19:21:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <070420081621.11562.486E4E23000B96AB00002D2A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <070420081621.11562.486E4E23000B96AB00002D2A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F79A3B3ECEA44A1F8B5DEBAB00919C29@GeoPC>

That's one solution and a very definite fix.  Another is to add a relay to 
the circuit so that pressure switch doesn't have to work so hard.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Electrical Gremlin


> This was a new switch installed during the restoration, so am with you, 
> Randall, and am going to rig a mechanical switch to the pedal box. 

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sat Jul  5 20:32:19 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 19:32:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Name the Parts Take Two
In-Reply-To: <bdc.2db99188.35a13337@aol.com>
References: <bdc.2db99188.35a13337@aol.com>
Message-ID: <A98D0A2C218B4548AB47B76BF3456236@GeoPC>

The wire-spring clamps sold at Ace don't look to obvious and usually do an 
adequate job of securing those hoses.

As for clamps, the small ones they sell for fuel-injection systems look (to 
me) much better that the 'cheese-grater' style.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 1:27 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Name the Parts Take Two


> ... Although they  are allowed, being a
> purist I just hate all these goofy looking clamps  everywhere. 

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Sat Jul  5 20:45:43 2008
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 22:45:43 EDT
Subject: [TR] Question about G Prepared Spitfire autocrossing...
Message-ID: <cc9.32d6d205.35a18bd7@aol.com>

Check the rules closely, prep allows update / backdate engine changes.  Also
some road race classes can run prep classes if they comply to all rules.

Harold
**************
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Jul  5 20:53:24 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 19:53:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] Question about G Prepared Spitfire autocrossing...
In-Reply-To: <380-2200870621857669@earthlink.net>
References: <380-2200870621857669@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <000001c8df13$7531cdb0$0202a8c0@newcomputer>

To get around the carb limitations, many people go to Street prepared where
you can use any carb or FI setup that you want.  Of course, you then get
into other restrictions.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jamie
Palmer
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 7:19 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Question about G Prepared Spitfire autocrossing...

OK...Major lurker but seldom poster here looking for some assistance.

>From what I can tell from the SCCA rules, the Spit 1500 is handicapped in G
Prepared Solo II rules in that it can only have a Stromberg 150 or 1-1/2" SU
without a 10% weight penalty (and multiple carbs are forbidden period).  

Yeah, I know, the hot ticket would be to go with a Mk. III or Mk. IV that
can have the twin SU's without penalty and are lighter to boot.

However, I picked up a $100 solid '76 1500 today (thanks, Craigslist) and
have started thinking...I miss my old '71 autocrosser and was thinking I
could have some fun.

Is anyone campaigning a 1500 in G-Prepared?  Would like to hear from other
Spit owners in G-Prepared, too...

Thanks for any assistance!


Jamie Palmer
tr6driver at earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Sat Jul  5 22:06:43 2008
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 00:06:43 EDT
Subject: [TR] Question about G Prepared Spitfire autocrossing...
Message-ID: <cd5.3304e131.35a19ed3@aol.com>

There are other classes besides prepaired, take a look at STS STX .

**************
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used
cars.
      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Jul  6 04:21:25 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 06:21:25 EDT
Subject: [TR] what a blast!
Message-ID: <c36.3239bad3.35a1f6a5@aol.com>

Geo,
Thanks.  This is through the stator tube only.  My wire colors,  although 
British wire colors in the new harness, do not match the  diagram for the stator 
tube.  
The horn is hooked up and works loudly.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun Jul  6 06:11:14 2008
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen ( B ))
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 08:11:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Name the Parts Take Two
In-Reply-To: <A98D0A2C218B4548AB47B76BF3456236@GeoPC>
References: <bdc.2db99188.35a13337@aol.com>
	<A98D0A2C218B4548AB47B76BF3456236@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770807060511j52280ae5se9422ad0c8c229b6@mail.gmail.com>

When I got my car, it had safety wire twisted around the hose instead of
clamps.

Since it was my great uncles car and I was more interested in preserving it
as he left it, I used safety wire when I replaced the fuel lines.  It's
been over 9 years and no leaks.
http://tiny.cc/NgzzG

Hmmm... probably time to replace all the rubber again...

Good luck

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Sun Jul  6 06:20:57 2008
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake Discher)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 08:20:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR Interview: Graham Robson
Message-ID: <8845E740-4AE8-477C-805E-017D67375BF1@blakedischer.com>

Good morning,

In the first of what is hoped will be an ongoing series of  
conversations with individuals having ties to the history of the  
Triumph marque, Triumph historian Graham Robson is interviewed by  
noted automotive journalist Richard Truett. The almost 15 minute  
conversation took place at the 2007 VTR National Convention in July,  
2007. Graham talks about Harry Webster, his thoughts on the return of  
Triumph as a brand, and, he discloses what Triumph he'd like to own...  
it may surprise you!

View the interview here:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=a6Vnz_JGPKg

See you in Ypsilanti at the North American Triumph Challenge!
Info at: http://www.natc2008.com

________________________
Blake J. Discher, President
Vintage Triumph Register

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Jul  6 07:05:26 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 09:05:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3 front  scuttle panel
Message-ID: <c80.2e0bf785.35a21d16@aol.com>

list  i am looking for a used tr3-a front scuttle panel that someone  may be 
willing to part with. it can be rusted as long as it is fairly straight.  any 
inquires would be greatly appreciated.  larry schwatz 1960 tr3-a  supercharged 
   1973 innocenti mini    1976 mini  pickup



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Jul  6 07:25:03 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2008 13:25:03 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Guage
Message-ID: <070620081325.1693.4870C7AF0008584B0000069D22165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Although I had my fuel guage, along with all my others, rebuilt at MoMa's, I confess they came back unhappily shabby.  The speedometer wobbles, none of the needles were touched because they're as rusty as when I sent them, and now the fuel guage reads dead empty most of the time, although very rarely it pegs to the other side.  I installed a new sending unit a couple of years ago.
I suspect the guage, but to rule out the sending unit, would it work to hook a variable pot to the fuel guage in place of the sending unit, then slowly adjust the pot to look for movement of the needle?
Maybe I'm overthinking and there's an easier way....
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sun Jul  6 09:25:07 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 08:25:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Guage
In-Reply-To: <070620081325.1693.4870C7AF0008584B0000069D22165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <070620081325.1693.4870C7AF0008584B0000069D22165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2868FDC3CB154D8B957042F01BE2E7DE@GeoPC>

This site is a pretty complete fuel gauge tutorial:

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm

Includes testing the gauge.  I followed the basic idea but did not build the 
test unit, just grabbed a handful of suitable resistors and some jumper 
wires to simulate full, half, empty, etc.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>

> I suspect the guage, but to rule out the sending unit, would it work to 
> hook a variable pot to the fuel guage in place of the sending unit, then 
> slowly adjust the pot to look for movement of the needle?
> Maybe I'm overthinking and there's an easier way.... 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  6 09:50:46 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 08:50:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Guage
In-Reply-To: <070620081325.1693.4870C7AF0008584B0000069D22165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080706155046.RLTA27427.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Although I had my fuel guage, along with all my others, 
> rebuilt at MoMa's, I confess they came back unhappily shabby. 

That is very strange.  Have you called and asked for an explanation?  Seems
like there must be some mistake.

>  the fuel guage reads dead empty most of the time, although very 
> rarely it pegs to the other side.

That sounds typical of a gauge that is not securely grounded.  Is there a
ground wire for the gauge?  Although not mentioned in any of the factory
literature (AFAIK), I believe there should be a ground wire, with a ring
terminal and 'star' lockwasher under the nut that holds the gauge.  The
other end of the wire goes to the ground point on the back of the gauge
panel.

> I suspect the guage, but to rule out the sending unit, would 
> it work to hook a variable pot to the fuel guage in place of 
> the sending unit, then slowly adjust the pot to look for 
> movement of the needle?

Should work fine.

There's more than you could ever want to know about testing the gauge, at
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm
The resistances given may not be exactly right for a TR3, but otherwise the
gauge is identical.

Randall

From rhelman at gmail.com  Sun Jul  6 13:02:23 2008
From: rhelman at gmail.com (Roger Helman)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 13:02:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] Free Pre 74 TR6 Block
Message-ID: <779de48e0807061202s7e9ce702le35d164e656d4b01@mail.gmail.com>

Bock is gone. Gave it away with a diff yesterday.

Glad it did not get turned into a Subaru.

Roger

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Jul  6 13:43:46 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2008 19:43:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Guage
Message-ID: <070620081943.20850.48712072000D77360000517222165579969C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

When it comes to creating strong electrical grounds, I'm a pretty down to earth guy.

Heh heh.

Double checked the grounding to the fuel tank and to the guages.  All my guages are grounded at the bracket, and ganged together to a common groundpoint on the chassis in a couple of different places.  The problem with the fuel guage is not the ground.  Will do another type check of the guage when time affords.

Thank you all.

Terry

> > the fuel guage reads dead empty most of the time, although very 
> > rarely it pegs to the other side. 
> 
> That sounds typical of a gauge that is not securely grounded. Is there a 
> ground wire for the gauge? Although not mentioned in any of the factory 
> literature (AFAIK), I believe there should be a ground wire, with a ring 
> terminal and 'star' lockwasher under the nut that holds the gauge. The 
> other end of the wire goes to the ground point on the back of the gauge 
> panel. 

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Sun Jul  6 14:23:33 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 16:23:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] hot body filler
Message-ID: <bdd.2ffd2721.35a283c5@aol.com>

Has any one got any tips on how to slow down the cure time of body filler in 
the heat of summer?
I live in the California desert and temperatures are 100+ now.
Mixing no more than you can use restricts me to an amount equal to about 2 
golf balls volume. 
Cleaning the mixing board, spatula and spreader take more time than the 
application.
I tried putting the filler in the refrigerator over night. This slows down 
the cure rate to a usable condition. however the moment one opens the can 
condensation occurs and I don't think its a good idea to mix water into the filler.
Next I tried keeping the can in the utility sink filled with water to a level 
just above the contents but below the lip of the can. After a 24 hour soak 
and a rust mark at the bottom of the sink it did not do a lot to help.
IM using Rage gold filler. Evercoat says they do not product a "slow" cream 
hardener.
what are you guys doing?
thanks
Frank Fisher
TR3 in Temecula California



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Jul  6 15:29:17 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 17:29:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] hot body filler
Message-ID: <bf1.3028bb01.35a2932d@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/6/2008 3:53:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
FGFO1 at aol.com writes:

what are  you guys doing?
thanks



Mix small amounts and work fast.  It is not recommended to alter  the 
chemistry to make it cure slower as that effects the hardness of the end  product.  
Although I have not had direct experience with this, I understand  that it is 
something you may regret down the road. . .after it is painted.
I hear you with the clean up, etc.  It is summer here in FL and I am  facing 
the same thing.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Jul  6 16:53:35 2008
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 15:53:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Floor Mats
Message-ID: <301548.62964.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am looking for a low cost floor mat for my TR6
rather than buy new carpets. I don't like the Amco
type black rubber kind. Does anyone know a source for
coco mats or something similar? It probably would be
the same size as a TR3 mat as well.
     TIA,
     Bill Brewer

From dphenry at wpia.net  Sun Jul  6 17:11:19 2008
From: dphenry at wpia.net (Dana P. Henry)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 23:11:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Floor Mats
Message-ID: <647536699-1215385886-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-799190010-@bxe199.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Have u tried TRF?

------Original Message------
From: William Brewer
Sender: triumphs-bounces+dphenry=wpia.net at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Jul 6, 2008 6:53 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Floor Mats

     I am looking for a low cost floor mat for my TR6
rather than buy new carpets. I don't like the Amco
type black rubber kind. Does anyone know a source for
coco mats or something similar? It probably would be
the same size as a TR3 mat as well.
     TIA,
     Bill Brewer
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as dphenry at wpia.net

http://www.team.net/archive



sent from my blackberry wireless device
Dana P. Henry
Indiana County Chamber of Commerce
1019 Philadelphia Street
Indiana, PA  15701-1689
724-465-2511
Fax:  724-465-3706
www.indianapa.com/chamber
dphenry at wpia.net

From dphenry at wpia.net  Sun Jul  6 17:11:32 2008
From: dphenry at wpia.net (Dana P. Henry)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 23:11:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Floor Mats
Message-ID: <647536699-1215385898-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-75498492-@bxe199.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Have u tried TRF?

------Original Message------
From: William Brewer
Sender: triumphs-bounces+dphenry=wpia.net at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Jul 6, 2008 6:53 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Floor Mats

     I am looking for a low cost floor mat for my TR6
rather than buy new carpets. I don't like the Amco
type black rubber kind. Does anyone know a source for
coco mats or something similar? It probably would be
the same size as a TR3 mat as well.
     TIA,
     Bill Brewer
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as dphenry at wpia.net

http://www.team.net/archive



sent from my blackberry wireless device
Dana P. Henry
Indiana County Chamber of Commerce
1019 Philadelphia Street
Indiana, PA  15701-1689
724-465-2511
Fax:  724-465-3706
www.indianapa.com/chamber
dphenry at wpia.net

From dphenry at wpia.net  Sun Jul  6 17:11:40 2008
From: dphenry at wpia.net (Dana P. Henry)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 23:11:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Floor Mats
Message-ID: <647536699-1215385906-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-131110281-@bxe199.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Have u tried TRF?

------Original Message------
From: William Brewer
Sender: triumphs-bounces+dphenry=wpia.net at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Jul 6, 2008 6:53 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Floor Mats

     I am looking for a low cost floor mat for my TR6
rather than buy new carpets. I don't like the Amco
type black rubber kind. Does anyone know a source for
coco mats or something similar? It probably would be
the same size as a TR3 mat as well.
     TIA,
     Bill Brewer
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as dphenry at wpia.net

http://www.team.net/archive



sent from my blackberry wireless device
Dana P. Henry
Indiana County Chamber of Commerce
1019 Philadelphia Street
Indiana, PA  15701-1689
724-465-2511
Fax:  724-465-3706
www.indianapa.com/chamber
dphenry at wpia.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Jul  6 17:27:04 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 16:27:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Floor Mats
In-Reply-To: <301548.62964.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <301548.62964.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <p06240803c49704fa5cbc@[98.224.22.215]>

You can get Coco  Mats from autosportcatalog.com ... not  cheap  but 
look great ... Casper loves his ...




>      I am looking for a low cost floor mat for my TR6
>rather than buy new carpets. I don't like the Amco
>type black rubber kind. Does anyone know a source for
>coco mats or something similar? It probably would be
>the same size as a TR3 mat as well.
>      TIA,


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sun Jul  6 17:41:16 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 16:41:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Floor Mats
In-Reply-To: <301548.62964.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <301548.62964.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <15B68E39F61A4110B62450F2374086E1@GeoPC>

When we carpeted one room of our house I took some remnants to a gal who 
used a gadget to bind the edges of a few rectangles to make me a couple of 
doormats.  Just for the heck of it I also outlined on the back of a couple 
of pieces the shape of the front mats in our VW camper.  Nicest mats we have 
ever had in there, still use them today.

Do not recall the cost but it was very reasonable.

If oyu try this be sure to think about the fact that you are marking the 
shape on the bottom of the carpet and thus it needs to be backwards.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 3:53 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Floor Mats


>     I am looking for a low cost floor mat for my TR6
> rather than buy new carpets. 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  6 18:10:51 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 17:10:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Floor Mats
In-Reply-To: <15B68E39F61A4110B62450F2374086E1@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <20080707001051.DGEG4229.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> When we carpeted one room of our house I took some remnants 
> to a gal who used a gadget to bind the edges of a few 
> rectangles to make me a couple of doormats.

Along the same lines, I found an office building that was being recarpeted
for new tenants, and snagged an unworn section of the old carpet.  I think
it had been under file cabinets or something, anyway it looked brand new and
was heavy duty, industrial carpet for free.  Cut to shape, just left the
edges raw; served for many years in my TR3A.

Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Jul  6 19:05:32 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 18:05:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] hot body filler
In-Reply-To: <bdd.2ffd2721.35a283c5@aol.com>
References: <bdd.2ffd2721.35a283c5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001c8dfcd$8e4d27d0$0202a8c0@newcomputer>

Use less catalyst.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
FGFO1 at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 1:24 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] hot body filler

Has any one got any tips on how to slow down the cure time of body filler in

the heat of summer?
I live in the California desert and temperatures are 100+ now.
Mixing no more than you can use restricts me to an amount equal to about 2 
golf balls volume. 
Cleaning the mixing board, spatula and spreader take more time than the 
application.
I tried putting the filler in the refrigerator over night. This slows down 
the cure rate to a usable condition. however the moment one opens the can 
condensation occurs and I don't think its a good idea to mix water into the
filler.
Next I tried keeping the can in the utility sink filled with water to a
level 
just above the contents but below the lip of the can. After a 24 hour soak 
and a rust mark at the bottom of the sink it did not do a lot to help.
IM using Rage gold filler. Evercoat says they do not product a "slow" cream 
hardener.
what are you guys doing?
thanks
Frank Fisher
TR3 in Temecula California



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From don at napanet.net  Sun Jul  6 22:09:12 2008
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2008 20:09:12 -0800
Subject: [TR] Looking for TR4
In-Reply-To: <15B68E39F61A4110B62450F2374086E1@GeoPC>
References: <301548.62964.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<15B68E39F61A4110B62450F2374086E1@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20080706195906.02c3ea30@pop.napanet.net>

>I am a new subscriber to this list.  I have been a British sports car 
>owner since 1967, owning mostly MGs.  I did have a 1980 TR8, (18k mile 
>original) which I sold about three years ago.  I'd like to find a nice TR4 
>or TR4a, preferably to original specs without modifications.  A stalled 
>restoration is a possiblity, or a car needing some work is ok, but a 
>running nice car is my preference.  If anyone has one or runs across one 
>for sale, please let me know.  I've been looking on Craigslist and other 
>sites.  Seems like every time I find one I like, it's already sold.  I do 
>have a '73 MGB GT which is about 90% redone to a very nice quality which I 
>would trade towards a TR4, or I could just buy a TR4.

Thanks!
Don Scott
Calistoga CA 


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1536 - Release Date: 07/05/2008 10:15 AM

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Jul  7 05:20:07 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 07:20:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] hot body filler
Message-ID: <cb4.37991a41.35a355e7@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/6/2008 8:06:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
spitlist at cox.net writes:

Use less  catalyst.

Joe



This is not something I have chosen to experiment with, but all  sources I 
can find highly discourage this.  The hardness, adhesion,  durability of the 
filler is dependent upon it being mixed in proper  proportions.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Mon Jul  7 06:59:29 2008
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 08:59:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <48721331.314.5fa7.25425@cogeco.ca>

Same here and it worked well on the bench but when I installed in in the car it wouldn't read right.  The author of the
website said MGAs used a different system then TR3 fuel gauges

> This site is a pretty complete fuel gauge tutorial:
>
> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm
>
> Includes testing the gauge.  I followed the basic idea but did not build
> the
> test unit, just grabbed a handful of suitable resistors and some jumper
> wires to simulate full, half, empty, etc.
>
> Geo

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jul  7 08:18:05 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 07:18:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] hot body filler
References: <cb4.37991a41.35a355e7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002001c8e03c$4682dca0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

I have never had any problem with the finished product when reducing the
amount of catylist to reduce hardening time.  Down here in Southern AZ, you
have todo what you can to adapt to the torrid heat.

Joe.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: DLylis at aol.com
  To: spitlist at cox.net ; FGFO1 at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 4:20 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] hot body filler


  In a message dated 7/6/2008 8:06:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
spitlist at cox.net writes:
    Use less catalyst.

    Joe

  This is not something I have chosen to experiment with, but all sources I
can find highly discourage this.  The hardness, adhesion, durability of the
filler is dependent upon it being mixed in proper proportions.

  David Lylis
  69 TR6 CC26160L
  60 TR3A TS74461LO





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul  7 09:36:41 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 11:36:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 lockout switch, maybe?
Message-ID: <003c01c8e047$41627310$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I attended VTR a couple of years ago and won (or bought?) an auction for a
'Kill Switch'.  I thot the idea might be kool.  I saw a drawing in Moss's
Catalog for something similar (I guess) for a TR4 and I wondered if it might
be their 'Lockout Switch'.  Where is this ladder device installed?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 764 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Mon Jul  7 09:52:12 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 08:52:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 lockout switch, maybe?
In-Reply-To: <003c01c8e047$41627310$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <003c01c8e047$41627310$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <0DE16AA3A9EB4F47BDA4301807D50690@GeoPC>

Moss sells a 'battery cut-off switch' for 14 bucks and a 'racing battery 
switch' for $82.

The latter is what I would call a kill switch as it is usually mounted such 
that you can disable the electrics from the drivers seat.

The cut-off switch (cheaper, simpler, green knob that can be removed) is 
usually installed on the ground post of the battery so you can disable the 
electrics whilst under the bonnet.

Both styles may double as a theft deterrent as the knobs are removable.

They also sell period-style switches for the cutoff function for $$$$.

So it depends on which switch you have.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:36 AM
Subject: [TR] TR4 lockout switch, maybe?


>I attended VTR a couple of years ago and won (or bought?) an auction for a
> 'Kill Switch'.  I thot the idea might be kool.  I saw a drawing in Moss's
> Catalog for something similar (I guess) for a TR4 and I wondered if it 
> might
> be their 'Lockout Switch'.  Where is this ladder device installed?
>
> Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A 

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Mon Jul  7 09:55:46 2008
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 11:55:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hot Body, filler
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18062.1215444984.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OFA1D95CC8.0262C228-ON8525747F.00568268-8525747F.005782B8@gsk.com>

I thought for a second that Hot Body Filler was a post sent mistakenly to 
the Triumph List.

It seems not, LOL.

Two thoughts Dave:

1) There will be a range of acceptable paste:hardener proportions. Head 
for the lower amounts of hardener and you'll have more working time. Make 
sure you mix well.

2) Don't spend time cleaning the mixing board and spatula. Find disposable 
alternatives. I've used plastic document sleeves before, and plastic 
packaging. Find a disposable spatula. Lolly Ice sticks seem workable. I've 
used scrap wood trim before. Then you'll only have the spreader to clean. 
The more flexible your spreader, the easier it is to break off the 
hardener. Use two spreaders. Let one harden while you spread with the 
other. Then bend spreader to flex off the hard filler.

Brian

Subject: Re: [TR] hot body filler
To: <DLylis at aol.com>, <FGFO1 at aol.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>

I have never had any problem with the finished product when reducing the
amount of catylist to reduce hardening time.  Down here in Southern AZ, 
you
have todo what you can to adapt to the torrid heat.

Joe.
 ----------
  To: spitlist at cox.net ; FGFO1 at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Subject: Re: [TR] hot body filler

    Joe

  This is not something I have chosen to experiment with, but all sources 
I
can find highly discourage this.  The hardness, adhesion, durability of 
the
filler is dependent upon it being mixed in proper proportions.

  David Lylis

From tr6 at pobox.com  Mon Jul  7 10:05:30 2008
From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph)
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 11:05:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hot Body, filler
In-Reply-To: <OFA1D95CC8.0262C228-ON8525747F.00568268-8525747F.005782B8@gsk.com>
References: <OFA1D95CC8.0262C228-ON8525747F.00568268-8525747F.005782B8@gsk.com>
Message-ID: <48723ECA.8060804@pobox.com>

Ever so slightly off topic here but... has anyone tried lead?  I read a 
few articles many years ago about the lost art of lead as a body filler 
and it sounded as if it was somewhat superior to traditional bondo-type 
fillers.  (But it has its hazards with breathing fumes/dust).

I have never in my life done body work so I really have no practical 
experience here.  But as someone that has had many cars professionally 
done with bondo-type materials, the end result in Texas 100 degree heat 
never lasted more than about 2 years.  After that the bondo cracks into 
a million pieces and ruins the paint job.  ...but maybe I just never 
picked the "right" body shop for my work.

-Mark
-- 

http://SporkInTheEye.blogspot.com
--
You can drive those wheels
To the end of the road
You will still find the past right behind you
Try to deny
The weight of the load
Try to put the sins of the past night behind you
         Neil Peart, "Carve Away the Stone", Test For Echo (1996)



Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com wrote:
> I thought for a second that Hot Body Filler was a post sent mistakenly to 
> the Triumph List.
> 
> It seems not, LOL.
> 
> Two thoughts Dave:
> 
> 1) There will be a range of acceptable paste:hardener proportions. Head 
> for the lower amounts of hardener and you'll have more working time. Make 
> sure you mix well.
> 
> 2) Don't spend time cleaning the mixing board and spatula. Find disposable 
> alternatives. I've used plastic document sleeves before, and plastic 
> packaging. Find a disposable spatula. Lolly Ice sticks seem workable. I've 
> used scrap wood trim before. Then you'll only have the spreader to clean. 
> The more flexible your spreader, the easier it is to break off the 
> hardener. Use two spreaders. Let one harden while you spread with the 
> other. Then bend spreader to flex off the hard filler.
> 
> Brian
> 
> Subject: Re: [TR] hot body filler
> To: <DLylis at aol.com>, <FGFO1 at aol.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> 
> I have never had any problem with the finished product when reducing the
> amount of catylist to reduce hardening time.  Down here in Southern AZ, 
> you
> have todo what you can to adapt to the torrid heat.
> 
> Joe.
>  ----------
>   To: spitlist at cox.net ; FGFO1 at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
>   Subject: Re: [TR] hot body filler
> 
>     Joe
> 
>   This is not something I have chosen to experiment with, but all sources 
> I
> can find highly discourage this.  The hardness, adhesion, durability of 
> the
> filler is dependent upon it being mixed in proper proportions.
> 
>   David Lylis
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as tr6 at pobox.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Mon Jul  7 10:17:31 2008
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 12:17:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] 8 blade fan on TR3
In-Reply-To: <002001c8e03c$4682dca0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
References: <cb4.37991a41.35a355e7@aol.com>
	<002001c8e03c$4682dca0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <4872419B.20808@frontiernet.net>

I've been performing a number of chores related to getting my TR3 into 
condition for semi-daily use, and came across two different types of 
plastic fans. One is the yellow 8 blade used on TR250/TR6, and the other 
is the later still red 13 blade (I only counted 12, but the Moss catalog 
says 13) fan.

I'm planning to put an electric fan in the TR6 I'm (finally) working on, 
so my question is:

Can I mount either of these on the TR3 without modification? If so how?

If not, what mods do I need to make?

Moss sells an adapter kit for the yellow fan, but I don't think I want 
to go that far. If I need to shorten the fan extension, I've got the 
capability to do that here. In fact, I might have a spare I can modifiy.

George Richardson

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul  7 11:04:28 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 10:04:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hot Body, filler
In-Reply-To: <48723ECA.8060804@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <20080707170428.MQFU4229.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> After that the bondo cracks into a million pieces 
> and ruins the paint job.  ...but maybe I just never picked 
> the "right" body shop for my work.

That's my opinion.  It's a lot of work to beat the sheetmetal back to where
you can keep the filler as thin as it should be; so most shops just get it
kind of close then plaster on the Bondo.  Some pros feel that multiple
layers are OK as long as each layer doesn't exceed 1/4"; while others I've
talked to say that anything more than one layer (of less than 1/4") is
asking for trouble.

When I had a (cheap) shop do my TR3A, there was a 2" diameter spot that just
flaked off (taking the paint with it of course).  A friend of mine who
worked in a body shop took one look and said "too thick".

Lots of other things (including temperature) that should be "just so" and
frequently aren't.  The high-end body shops actually air-condition the area,
just to control temperature and humidity; plus let the car sit overnight so
the metal matches the air temp.

Here's some more info :
http://www.roadsters.com/filler/

Good luck with the solder approach.  Looks like a whole lot of frustrating
work to me; especially the point where you're just finishing up a panel and
get it just a little bit too hot ... and the whole mess slumps off onto the
floor.

Randall

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Jul  7 11:10:49 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 13:10:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hot Body, filler
In-Reply-To: <OFA1D95CC8.0262C228-ON8525747F.00568268-8525747F.005782B8@
	gsk.com>
References: <mailman.18062.1215444984.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<OFA1D95CC8.0262C228-ON8525747F.00568268-8525747F.005782B8@gsk.com>
Message-ID: <20080707171005.D766A187649@autox.team.net>

In my class at the technical college, we used squares cut up from 
cardboard boxes as a mixing board. The instructor said if we were to 
do much of this, then to get a stainless steel mixing board with a 
handle attached.. Somewhat easy to clean and does not rust!

At 11:55 AM 7/7/2008, Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com wrote:
>2) Don't spend time cleaning the mixing board and spatula.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul  7 11:19:04 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 10:19:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <48721331.314.5fa7.25425@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <20080707171904.JAYA7689.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Same here and it worked well on the bench but when I 
> installed in in the car it wouldn't read right.  The author 
> of the website said MGAs used a different system then TR3 fuel gauges

Really ?  It's not like Barney to get that wrong ... the original TR3 fuel
gauge is virtually identical in both form and function to the MGA gauge.
The resistances might not be exactly the same, but the system is.

TR4-onwards are totally different, of course.

However I agree that being installed in the dash panel (and the gauge
orientation when you test it) do affect the reading to some extent.

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Jul  7 11:41:46 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 13:41:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] Hot Body, filler
Message-ID: <bd1.341a39d6.35a3af5a@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/7/2008 10:05:14 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

That's  my opinion.  It's a lot of work to beat the sheetmetal back to  where
you can keep the filler as thin as it should be; so most shops just  get it
kind of close then plaster on the Bondo.  Some pros feel that  multiple
layers are OK as long as each layer doesn't exceed 1/4"; while  others I've
talked to say that anything more than one layer (of less than  1/4") is
asking for trouble.

When I had a (cheap) shop do my TR3A,  there was a 2" diameter spot that just
flaked off (taking the paint with it  of course).  A friend of mine who
worked in a body shop took one look  and said "too thick".

Lots of other things (including temperature) that  should be "just so" and
frequently aren't.  The high-end body shops  actually air-condition the area,
just to control temperature and humidity;  plus let the car sit overnight so
the metal matches the air  temp.

Here's some more info  :
http://www.roadsters.com/filler/



I bought a  "rust free" 63 E Type several years ago. It was all primed  and 
had been someones 20 year project. I used an ice pick and scratched several  
places and founf them to be sold. The ship where I took the body started sanding 
 the car and as they sanded into the filler, they found rust. The body had 
rusted  under the filler everywhere the owner had used filler. It wasn't that 
big a deal  because none of the bondo was very thick, but it required all the 
old bondo to  be removed and the body sanded to bare steel. I wish I knew 
exactly what the PO  did wrong. I normally use metal prep and a rinse and dry before 
I put any filler  on.
 
Mike Moore 59 TR3A



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul  7 12:11:36 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 14:11:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] Hot Body, filler
Message-ID: <be2.2e53933e.35a3b658@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/7/2008 10:56:33 AM Central Daylight Time, 
Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com writes: 
> Two thoughts Dave:
> 
> 1) There will be a range of acceptable paste:hardener proportions. Head 
> for the lower amounts of hardener and you'll have more working time. Make 
> sure you mix well.
> 
> 2) Don't spend time cleaning the mixing board and spatula. Find disposable 
> alternatives. I've used plastic document sleeves before, and plastic 
> packaging. Find a disposable spatula. Lolly Ice sticks seem workable. I've 
> used scrap wood trim before. Then you'll only have the spreader to clean. 
> The more flexible your spreader, the easier it is to break off the 
> hardener. Use two spreaders. Let one harden while you spread with the 
> other. Then bend spreader to flex off the hard filler.
> 
> 
How about:
3) Keep the paste can in an air conditioned space where it will remain cool 
until you are ready to use it.  It will stay cool long enough for you to mix it 
and apply it.  Once it hits the hot sheet metal it will accelerate cure but 
then that would be a good thing.

Dave Massey   

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Mon Jul  7 12:31:27 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 11:31:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hot Body, filler
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1215453601.15941.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1215453601.15941.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <006a01c8e05f$ab450000$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

Mike,

Something many people do wrong is to apply body filler over bare metal.
Remember, plastic filler is PORUS and this means it likes to absorb
moisture, and moisture likes to turn metal in to iron oxide... rust! I've
always had excellent results with applying a couple of coats of 2-part epoxy
primer over bare metal, then doing all the body work. You'll need to rough
up the primer before applying the filler, but that's easy - just don't go
thru to bare metal.

BTW - all filler is not equal! When I was a 15 year old kid, all I could
afford was Bondo. Now, older and wiser (and able to afford a little higher
quality) I use Evercoat Rage Gold. Huge difference!

Brian
67 TR4a


------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 13:41:46 EDT
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com
Subject: Re: [TR] Hot Body, filler
To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <bd1.341a39d6.35a3af5a at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I bought a  "rust free" 63 E Type several years ago. It was all primed  and 
had been someones 20 year project. I used an ice pick and scratched several

places and founf them to be sold. The ship where I took the body started
sanding 
 the car and as they sanded into the filler, they found rust. The body had 
rusted  under the filler everywhere the owner had used filler. It wasn't
that 
big a deal  because none of the bondo was very thick, but it required all
the 
old bondo to  be removed and the body sanded to bare steel. I wish I knew 
exactly what the PO  did wrong. I normally use metal prep and a rinse and
dry before 
I put any filler  on.
 
Mike Moore 59 TR3A

From machinemd at msn.com  Mon Jul  7 12:32:25 2008
From: machinemd at msn.com (STEVE STERN)
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 14:32:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hot Body, filler
Message-ID: <BAY110-F39DA5B57F77963F6C6789BA9940@phx.gbl>

   "In my class at the technical college, we used squares cut up from
   cardboard boxes as a mixing board"

   I was taught not to use plain cardboard as it is porous and could suck
   up  some  of  the  liquid  from  the  bondo  possibly  weakening  it's
   effectiveness.
   Steve  

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jul  7 13:03:58 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 12:03:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hot Body, filler
References: <mailman.5.1215453601.15941.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<006a01c8e05f$ab450000$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <006a01c8e064$363d5640$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Even better is to use a high quality Etching primer.

Joe

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at roadrunner.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Hot Body, filler


> Mike,
>
> Something many people do wrong is to apply body filler over bare metal.
> Remember, plastic filler is PORUS and this means it likes to absorb
> moisture, and moisture likes to turn metal in to iron oxide... rust! I've
> always had excellent results with applying a couple of coats of 2-part
epoxy
> primer over bare metal, then doing all the body work. You'll need to rough
> up the primer before applying the filler, but that's easy - just don't go
> thru to bare metal.
>
> BTW - all filler is not equal! When I was a 15 year old kid, all I could
> afford was Bondo. Now, older and wiser (and able to afford a little higher
> quality) I use Evercoat Rage Gold. Huge difference!
>
> Brian
> 67 TR4a
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 13:41:46 EDT
> From: MMoore8425 at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] Hot Body, filler
> To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <bd1.341a39d6.35a3af5a at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I bought a  "rust free" 63 E Type several years ago. It was all primed
and
> had been someones 20 year project. I used an ice pick and scratched
several
>
> places and founf them to be sold. The ship where I took the body started
> sanding
>  the car and as they sanded into the filler, they found rust. The body had
> rusted  under the filler everywhere the owner had used filler. It wasn't
> that
> big a deal  because none of the bondo was very thick, but it required all
> the
> old bondo to  be removed and the body sanded to bare steel. I wish I knew
> exactly what the PO  did wrong. I normally use metal prep and a rinse and
> dry before
> I put any filler  on.
>
> Mike Moore 59 TR3A
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Jul  7 13:14:21 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 15:14:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hot Body, filler
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-F39DA5B57F77963F6C6789BA9940@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-F39DA5B57F77963F6C6789BA9940@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080707191336.F12F218763E@autox.team.net>

Steve,

We were warned about that and told to make sure to mix up some extra 
so that there would be enough to "sacrifice" to the cardboard.  Best 
would have been to have a stainless steel mixing board.

I should have remembered that in my original post.  Thanks

Doug

At 02:32 PM 7/7/2008, you wrote:
>I was taught not to use plain cardboard as it is porous and could suck
>    up  some  of  the  liquid  from  the  bondo  possibly  weakening  it's
>    effectiveness.

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Jul  7 13:42:07 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 15:42:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] 8 blade fan on TR3
Message-ID: <cfa.39642f05.35a3cb8f@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/7/2008 9:21:06 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
gprtech at frontiernet.net writes:

I've  been performing a number of chores related to getting my TR3 into  
condition for semi-daily use, and came across two different types of  
plastic fans. One is the yellow 8 blade used on TR250/TR6, and the other  
is the later still red 13 blade (I only counted 12, but the Moss catalog  
says 13) fan.

I'm planning to put an electric fan in the TR6 I'm  (finally) working on, 
so my question is:

Can I mount either of  these on the TR3 without modification? If so how?

If not, what mods do  I need to make?

Moss sells an adapter kit for the yellow fan, but I  don't think I want 
to go that far. If I need to shorten the fan extension,  I've got the 
capability to do that here. In fact, I might have a spare I  can modifiy.

George  Richardson
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph Register
_http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org) 






I mounted a Kenlowe fan on the FRONT of my radiator so I could leave the  
existing fan and hub extension ex-factory. The Kenlowe has nice tubes supporting  
it is not supported by the radiator.
Mike Moore 



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul  7 14:14:44 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 16:14:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  8 blade fan on TR3
Message-ID: <023001c8e06e$19492eb0$6401a8c0@STATION6>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
To: <MMoore8425 at aol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 4:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] 8 blade fan on TR3


> Yellow fans fits nicely on a TR3A if mounted backwards. Works great, no 
> mods needed.
> Alex Manzo
> 59 TR3A (with a yellow fan mounted)
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <MMoore8425 at aol.com>
> To: <gprtech at frontiernet.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] 8 blade fan on TR3
>
>
>> In a message dated 7/7/2008 9:21:06 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> gprtech at frontiernet.net writes:
>>
>> I've  been performing a number of chores related to getting my TR3 into
>> condition for semi-daily use, and came across two different types of
>> plastic fans. One is the yellow 8 blade used on TR250/TR6, and the other
>> is the later still red 13 blade (I only counted 12, but the Moss catalog
>> says 13) fan.
>>
>> I'm planning to put an electric fan in the TR6 I'm  (finally) working on,
>> so my question is:
>>
>> Can I mount either of  these on the TR3 without modification? If so how?
>>
>> If not, what mods do  I need to make?
>>
>> Moss sells an adapter kit for the yellow fan, but I  don't think I want
>> to go that far. If I need to shorten the fan extension,  I've got the
>> capability to do that here. In fact, I might have a spare I  can modifiy.
>>
>> George  Richardson
>> This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I mounted a Kenlowe fan on the FRONT of my radiator so I could leave the
>> existing fan and hub extension ex-factory. The Kenlowe has nice tubes 
>> supporting
>> it is not supported by the radiator.
>> Mike Moore

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Mon Jul  7 14:19:45 2008
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 16:19:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Seat slides
Message-ID: <48727A61.6040507@frontiernet.net>

OK, now I'm installing a new carpet set (polyester, wilton wool doesn't 
handle moisture at all), and I'm reinstalling my seats and did a double 
take.

We do the seat adjustment handles go for each side?

Same side? if so left or right?

Different sides? If so, which way for which side?

I'm wondering how I figured this out in the first place, or if I just 
said to heck with it and put them in any way they fit.

-- 
George Richardson

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Jul  7 15:39:08 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 17:39:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Seat slides
In-Reply-To: <48727A61.6040507@frontiernet.net>
References: <48727A61.6040507@frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <200807071739.08931.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 07 July 2008 04:19 pm, George Richardson wrote:
> OK, now I'm installing a new carpet set (polyester, wilton wool doesn't
> handle moisture at all), and I'm reinstalling my seats and did a double
> take.
>
> We do the seat adjustment handles go for each side?
>
> Same side? if so left or right?
>
> Different sides? If so, which way for which side?
>
> I'm wondering how I figured this out in the first place, or if I just
> said to heck with it and put them in any way they fit.
George,

On the 3 the drivers (LHD) slider fits with the handle on the left and on the 
passenger the handle points to the right.

Now you first must fit the parts that mount to the floor correctly and for 
both sides these mounts fit so the lip faces towards the other slider. Now 
the handles and the opposite part should fit and line up to the seat bottom.

Bob

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon Jul  7 16:16:50 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 18:16:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A tires
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPAEGEFAAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

List,
I am really sorry to ask this again. I have somehow deleted all the great
tire info I received from everyone!
I have a stock set of TR4A steel wheels that I need tires for. You can send
me the info directly instead of bombing the list again if you wish.
Thanks again..
Dave Connitt

http:/home.fuse.net/davestr4a

dconnitt at fuse.net

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Mon Jul  7 18:51:53 2008
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 20:51:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] fuel gauges
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1215453601.15941.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1215453601.15941.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4872BA29.4030601@cogeco.ca>

>> > Same here and it worked well on the bench but when I 
>> > installed in in the car it wouldn't read right.  The author 
>> > of the website said MGAs used a different system then TR3 fuel gauges
>>     
>
> Really ?  It's not like Barney to get that wrong ... the original TR3 fuel
> gauge is virtually identical in both form and function to the MGA gauge.
> The resistances might not be exactly the same, but the system is.
>
> TR4-onwards are totally different, of course.

Not sure he is wrong, mines a post 64000 and had a TR4 (I think) gauge 
in it that works fine, I just picked up a couple over the years that 
look more correct (but don't work nearly as well).

From tom628 at verizon.net  Mon Jul  7 20:10:49 2008
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 22:10:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] brake hub bolts
Message-ID: <00b501c8e09f$d7918800$2f01a8c0@Toms>

Are British fine thread bolts different in thread form or pitch from  AN or 
SAE bolts?
I'm replacing the brake rotors on our TR6,and thought I'd replace the old 
original hub bolts with new AN6-24 (3/8-24) aircraft bolts. But they won't 
fit. The bolt will start. and then stop after about 1/2 turn.
As close as I can tell w/o a thread gage the pitch appears to be the same. 
Both thread into a 3/8-24 nut, though the Brit bolt appears to fit just 
slightly looser.
So, the AN bolt won't work, yet if I try  an SAE grade 8 bolt of the same 
size it works fine, just like the Brit bolt. (Shoulder-to-thd. ratio is not 
right tho.)
Just wondered if others have come across this, and what the reason for it 
is.

Thanks,
Tom

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Jul  7 21:09:17 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 23:09:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] brake hub bolts
References: <00b501c8e09f$d7918800$2f01a8c0@Toms>
Message-ID: <001701c8e0a8$024ce320$994a7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Note" <tom628 at verizon.net>
To: "TR List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 10:10 PM
Subject: [TR] brake hub bolts


> Are British fine thread bolts different in thread form or pitch from  AN 
> or
> SAE bolts?
> I'm replacing the brake rotors on our TR6,and thought I'd replace the old
> original hub bolts with new AN6-24 (3/8-24) aircraft bolts. But they won't
> fit. The bolt will start. and then stop after about 1/2 turn.
> As close as I can tell w/o a thread gage the pitch appears to be the same.
> Both thread into a 3/8-24 nut, though the Brit bolt appears to fit just
> slightly looser.
> So, the AN bolt won't work, yet if I try  an SAE grade 8 bolt of the same
> size it works fine, just like the Brit bolt. (Shoulder-to-thd. ratio is 
> not
> right tho.)
> Just wondered if others have come across this, and what the reason for it
> is.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul  7 22:13:32 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 21:13:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] brake hub bolts
In-Reply-To: <00b501c8e09f$d7918800$2f01a8c0@Toms>
Message-ID: <20080708041331.XDD10970.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Are British fine thread bolts different in thread form or 
> pitch from  AN or SAE bolts?

Yes, both pitch and thread form are different for BSF vs UNF.  3/8" BSF is
20 tpi, while 3/8" UNF is 24 tpi.

BSW typically has the same pitch as UNC (except for 1/2"), but still
different thread form.

My guess is that there is a slight difference between the AN and SAE
hardware, perhaps in the class of thread fit or something like that.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul  7 22:18:43 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 21:18:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] fuel gauges
In-Reply-To: <4872BA29.4030601@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <20080708041843.UCMT7689.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Not sure he is wrong, mines a post 64000 and had a TR4 (I 
> think) gauge in it that works fine, I just picked up a couple 
> over the years that look more correct (but don't work nearly as well).

A conversion, IMO.

I do not believe even the TR3B (produced after the start of TR4 production)
had the voltage stabilizer from the factory, as required by the later type
gauges.

Note that the TR4 fuel gauge also takes a completely different sender, and
none of the catalogs mention there being more than one type of sender for
TR3/A/B.

Randall

From machinemd at msn.com  Tue Jul  8 09:17:20 2008
From: machinemd at msn.com (STEVE STERN)
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 11:17:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRIUMPH SPITFIRE STEEL HDTOP
Message-ID: <BAY110-F37C1F605FD01BF83FF2271A9970@phx.gbl>

   If anybody is interested. NFI - found in local for sale mag

   TRIUMPH SPITFIRE STEEL HDTOP 
   Pop-out   rear   windows.   Gd  orig  cond.  $250;  (Harrisville,  RI)
   401-499-6230
   Steve  

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue Jul  8 13:08:35 2008
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 15:08:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] fuel gauges
Message-ID: <4873bb33.61.215c.21813@cogeco.ca>

> > Not sure he is wrong, mines a post 64000 and had a TR4 (I
> > think) gauge in it that works fine, I just picked up a couple
> > over the years that look more correct (but don't work nearly as well).
>
> A conversion, IMO.
>
> I do not believe even the TR3B (produced after the start of TR4
> production)
> had the voltage stabilizer from the factory, as required by the later type
> gauges.

I'm only assuming it's a TR4 gauge because it was visually similar (single bulb receptical in back) and base of needle
hiden by black housing.  As I say it works perfectly, where as the one I calibrated based on the website instructions
wouldn't but then it could have been my error, the guy I sold on it to via ebay never complained.

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue Jul  8 13:15:30 2008
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 15:15:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] 8 blade fan on TR3
Message-ID: <4873bcd2.148.5e0f.14197@cogeco.ca>

Speaking of cooling, does anybody have any evidence (anicdotal or otherwise) that fitting the skid plate will aid
cooling?

It's absent on mine and I'm thinking it's easier at idle for the fan (a piddly 4 blade one) to suck air from under the
rad then it is through it.

I guess I could get some sort of black waxed cardboard and some zip ties to emulate one.

From maya2blue at juno.com  Tue Jul  8 17:54:55 2008
From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 18:54:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] chassis number with "L" suffix
Message-ID: <20080708.185455.3740.1.maya2blue@juno.com>

Greetings all

I am trying to find out about chassis number KC51002L on what is supposed
to be a GT-6+ (the same I think as a MK II)

Can anyone help me with this number?

I believe that the KC51002 is a Mark II built from 7/68 to 9/69 - 

I have no idea what the "L" stands for!

Tks for any help.

Harve


Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Click to get a cash advance.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mKetl31PcLffLIwN7ESXPYyyVq8AGuWSOw45fbXdbLLfoJT/

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Jul  8 18:13:14 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 20:13:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] negative side of my coil
Message-ID: <006101c8e158$95b07400$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
I'm sorting thru my TR3's wiring-
should the negative side of my coil have  continuity with the grounding on my
positively ground car?

Thanks, Paul
60 TR3A

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 764 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From cwn74 at aol.com  Tue Jul  8 18:14:54 2008
From: cwn74 at aol.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 20:14:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] 2 TR-6's for sale, Western MAssachusetts, S.VT
Message-ID: <00a301c8e158$d25b9c90$1342a8c0@semperon3400>

Don't email me with questions! These are in the local penny saver:
-=-=-=-
1972 TR6 53,000 miles. Runs excellent. Very original. New shocks, springs,
ignition. All hoses replaced, seals and gaskets in motor. extras. Appraised
$11,000 413-684-2449 Dalton MA
-=-=-=-
1974 TR6, maple convertible, tan top, newer interior, runs and looks great,
no rust, 91k, classic British roadster, $6900. Wallingford VT 802-446-2267
-=-=-=-
Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
"Reality... It's not what you think."

From skip47 at clearwire.net  Tue Jul  8 18:35:06 2008
From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee)
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 17:35:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] chassis number with "L" suffix
References: <20080708.185455.3740.1.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <00b301c8e15b$a5411ac0$6700a8c0@ZEUS>

The "L" stands for: driver sits on Left hand side.
Skip Gurnee

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <maya2blue at juno.com>
Subject: [TR] chassis number with "L" suffix


> Greetings all
> 
> I am trying to find out about chassis number KC51002L on what is supposed
> to be a GT-6+ (the same I think as a MK II)
> 
> Can anyone help me with this number?
> 
> I believe that the KC51002 is a Mark II built from 7/68 to 9/69 - 
> 
> I have no idea what the "L" stands for!
> 
> Tks for any help.
> 
> Harve
> 
> 
> Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
> 531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
> Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
> 72701 USA 
> 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg

From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net  Tue Jul  8 18:35:18 2008
From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White)
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 20:35:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] chassis number with "L" suffix
Message-ID: <756CEE45868E43E08CC5860C5F0DDE2A@chuck>

Harve,

The MkII (or GT6+) began with KC50001 and was produced from July 1968 to Oct
1969 so your KC51002 would be an early version of the MkII (or GT6+),
probably August or September 1968.  The 'L' says it is a Left Hand Drive
model.

Chuck White
NASS #495
Xenia, OH
1970 GT6+
1965 TR4A IRS

-----Original Message-----
From: Behalf Of maya2blue at juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 7:55 PM
To: nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com;
spitfires at autox.team.net; SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com;
spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] chassis number with "L" suffix


Greetings all

I am trying to find out about chassis number KC51002L on what is supposed to
be a GT-6+ (the same I think as a MK II)

Can anyone help me with this number?

I believe that the KC51002 is a Mark II built from 7/68 to 9/69 -

I have no idea what the "L" stands for!

Tks for any help.

Harve


Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul  8 18:39:06 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 17:39:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] negative side of my coil
In-Reply-To: <006101c8e158$95b07400$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080709003907.QTBM10970.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I'm sorting thru my TR3's wiring-
> should the negative side of my coil have  continuity with the 
> grounding on my positively ground car?

Maybe.

If the points are closed; or there is another load on the ignition circuit;
a continuity tester might show continuity to ground.  But if you disconnect
both wires from the coil, then none of the coil terminals should show
continuity to ground.

Randall

From maya2blue at juno.com  Tue Jul  8 19:45:03 2008
From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 20:45:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] "L" suffix resolved!!
Message-ID: <20080708.204503.3740.8.maya2blue@juno.com>

Many tks to all that offered the exact same info - "L" means left hand
drive!!

harve


Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Shop & save on the supplements you want. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oFe2ij78GGB9B9JgolMOgDJieg89kviyn9p0PAkc3ng4Qhb/

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Jul  8 20:46:24 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 22:46:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] L means what?
Message-ID: <006f01c8e16d$fae18e30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Many tks to all that offered the exact same info - "L" means left hand
drive!!

harve


...well, I finally found one I thought I could answer. so I did then hit
'send' and, had a second thought, asking myself "why does LHD alter the
chassis or the chassis number?".

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 764 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jul  8 21:02:58 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2008 03:02:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] L means what?
Message-ID: <070920080302.744.48742A62000CA790000002E822165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

> ...well, I finally found one I thought I could answer. so I did then hit
> 'send' and, had a second thought, asking myself "why does LHD alter the
> chassis or the chassis number?".

Because that's the way Triumph felt like doing it.


--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul  9 00:17:34 2008
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 23:17:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] Car trailers
Message-ID: <7F5BD3B9-2BB8-4B87-9C94-7CA935A4B997@sbcglobal.net>

The list seems to have a very deep knowledge base on a variety of  
subjects. I am in the planning process of building a car trailer and  
need some help. In the past, I have looked at the commercially  
available trailers and have copied their designs for my own use. This  
time I want to actually have some real data to use in the design.  
Specifically, I would like to know the relative bending strength of  
square or rectangular tubing compared with Steel Channel (force  
applied vertically to the channel) For example, what size  
tubing(height, width, and wall thickness) would be roughly equal the  
strength of 3 inch channel? And where can you find this information?
Thanks,
Mike Denman

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Jul  9 01:03:03 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 08:03:03 +0100
Subject: [TR] L means what?
References: <070920080302.744.48742A62000CA790000002E822165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <08a601c8e191$d5458630$0201a8c0@Bevan>

>> ...well, I finally found one I thought I could answer. so I did then hit
>> 'send' and, had a second thought, asking myself "why does LHD alter the
>> chassis or the chassis number?".

Phil Ethier wrote:
> Because that's the way Triumph felt like doing it.

While many of the codes were established and in use pre-1939 by Standard Motor Company, additional 
codes were introduced post-war - and the L suffix was one of them. It was incorporated in the 
commission number as a notifier of the number of cars exported from the UK and on which the company 
would not have to pay or levy purchase tax. Additionally, the more cars that could be produced with 
an L suffix, the greater the apportionment of steel from very limited available stocks. Many 
overlook the fact that the UK was bankrupt in 1945, its industrial infrastructure was shattered and 
raw materials to make virtually anything had to be imported. Ergo, the more of anything that could 
be sold overseas for valuable foreign exchange, the better.

Jonmac 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Jul  9 01:50:16 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 08:50:16 +0100
Subject: [TR] L means what? Xtra info
Message-ID: <08c201c8e198$6daf6930$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Further to my recent contribution to this thread, other suffixes such as BW (auto trans) O 
(overdrive) and SC (estate car / wagon) were also introduced as production planning tools. By having 
these additional suffixes, it enabled production planning to continually measure special 
requirements for these features and build them into the forward component purchasing schedules. The 
constants varied only rarely and were therefore useful aids in ensuring on-site component stocks 
were present to support the overall vehicle build programmes.

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From opposumking at verizon.net  Wed Jul  9 05:35:59 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2008 07:35:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Car trailers
References: <7F5BD3B9-2BB8-4B87-9C94-7CA935A4B997@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <000601c8e1b7$f5efd720$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

You might find beamboy helpful for understanding the strengths and bending 
of beams, and for comparing them.  It has several constraint capabilities, 
which make it nice for trailer frame modeling.
http://www.geocities.com/richgetze/

The math itself takes some time to come up to speed on.  Don't know your 
background, so I can't say how fast you can come up to speed.  None the 
less, this site has a pretty good walk through of the math for beam 
analysis.
http://www.geom.uiuc.edu/education/calc-init/static-beam/



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Denman" <mikedenman at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 2:17 AM
Subject: [TR] Car trailers


> The list seems to have a very deep knowledge base on a variety of
> subjects. I am in the planning process of building a car trailer and
> need some help. In the past, I have looked at the commercially
> available trailers and have copied their designs for my own use. This
> time I want to actually have some real data to use in the design.
> Specifically, I would like to know the relative bending strength of
> square or rectangular tubing compared with Steel Channel (force
> applied vertically to the channel) For example, what size
> tubing(height, width, and wall thickness) would be roughly equal the
> strength of 3 inch channel? And where can you find this information?
> Thanks,
> Mike Denman
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as opposumking at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Wed Jul  9 07:35:37 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 09:35:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] L means what? Xtra info
References: <08c201c8e198$6daf6930$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <008901c8e1c8$aca8edc0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Do you know what the 'B' or 'SC' stands for literally?
Paul

-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 764 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Wed Jul  9 07:35:57 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 09:35:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] L means what?
References: <070920080302.744.48742A62000CA790000002E822165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<08a601c8e191$d5458630$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <008a01c8e1c8$b8f40dd0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

OK.
So the more number of chassis's identified a LHD, the better.  As these were 
headed to the USA (or possibly elsewhere?)

But am I right in saying that there is no difference in a TR2 - TR3 chassis 
just because it's LHD?  Furthermore, if that's the case, are you aware of 
any RHD bodies being fitted to LHD chassis (OR vica versa)'?  (Not that it 
matters)
Paul

>
>
>> ...well, I finally found one I thought I could answer. so I did then hit
>> 'send' and, had a second thought, asking myself "why does LHD alter the
>> chassis or the chassis number?".

Phil Ethier wrote:
> Because that's the way Triumph felt like doing it.

While many of the codes were established and in use pre-1939 by Standard 
Motor Company, additional
codes were introduced post-war - and the L suffix was one of them. It was 
incorporated in the
commission number as a notifier of the number of cars exported from the UK 
and on which the company
would not have to pay or levy purchase tax. Additionally, the more cars that 
could be produced with
an L suffix, the greater the apportionment of steel from very limited 
available stocks. Many
overlook the fact that the UK was bankrupt in 1945, its industrial 
infrastructure was shattered and
raw materials to make virtually anything had to be imported. Ergo, the more 
of anything that could
be sold overseas for valuable foreign exchange, the better.

Jonmac 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 764 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jul  9 07:40:38 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2008 13:40:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] L means what?
Message-ID: <070920081340.20559.4874BFD600005F350000504F22165384969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

> While many of the codes were established and in use pre-1939 by Standard 
> Motor Company, additional
> codes were introduced post-war - and the L suffix was one of them. It was 
> incorporated in the
> commission number as a notifier of the number of cars exported from the UK 
> and on which the company
> would not have to pay or levy purchase tax. Additionally, the more cars that 
> could be produced with
> an L suffix, the greater the apportionment of steel from very limited 
> available stocks. Many
> overlook the fact that the UK was bankrupt in 1945, its industrial 
> infrastructure was shattered and
> raw materials to make virtually anything had to be imported. Ergo, the more 
> of anything that could
> be sold overseas for valuable foreign exchange, the better.
> 
> Jonmac 

Interesting.  What about RHD cars to be exported to Australia, South Africa, Japan, China, and other places where they use RHD cars?

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From dwillner at ptd.net  Wed Jul  9 07:58:41 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 09:58:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Build specification codes and equipment
References: <070920081340.20559.4874BFD600005F350000504F22165384969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000c01c8e1cb$e5d7b970$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

Here are all the codes (I think....) that were on the back of my build sheet 
anyway

AS       Adjustable steering
CSA    Competition front springs and rear shock absorbers
H         Home built specification
h          Heater
HT       Hardtop
HSC    Hood stick cover
K         Metric calibrated instruments
L          Lefthand drive
M        Imperial calibrated instruments
Nil       No heater
ORS    Occasional rear seats
"O"      Overdrive
R        Righthand drive
SC        Side curtains
TC        Tonneau cover
W        White wall tires (tyres)
WW    Windscreen washers
Wire    Wire wheels
X        Export build specification
4:1        4:1 Axle ratio

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>; "John Macartney" 
<standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] L means what?


>> While many of the codes were established and in use pre-1939 by Standard
>> Motor Company, additional
>> codes were introduced post-war - and the L suffix was one of them. It was
>> incorporated in the
>> commission number as a notifier of the number of cars exported from the 
>> UK
>> and on which the company
>> would not have to pay or levy purchase tax. Additionally, the more cars 
>> that
>> could be produced with
>> an L suffix, the greater the apportionment of steel from very limited
>> available stocks. Many
>> overlook the fact that the UK was bankrupt in 1945, its industrial
>> infrastructure was shattered and
>> raw materials to make virtually anything had to be imported. Ergo, the 
>> more
>> of anything that could
>> be sold overseas for valuable foreign exchange, the better.
>>
>> Jonmac
>
> Interesting.  What about RHD cars to be exported to Australia, South 
> Africa, Japan, China, and other places where they use RHD cars?
>
> --
> Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
> 1994 Miata C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.
> _______________________________________________

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Jul  9 09:03:21 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2008 11:03:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] L means what? Xtra info
In-Reply-To: <008901c8e1c8$aca8edc0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <08c201c8e198$6daf6930$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<008901c8e1c8$aca8edc0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <8CAAFEC0FD8BD39-126C-11CE@WEBMAIL-MB08.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: dorpaul <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>

Do you know what the 'B' or 'SC' stands for literally?

==AM==
I don't recall "B" alone, but "BW" might literally have stood for 
Borg-Warner, the manufacturer of the automatic gearboxes used. "SC" 
might stand for Saloon Conversion? Just a guess, since most of the 
estate car bodies from Standard-Triumph (with Heralds being a notable 
exception) were actually converted by the Mulliners subsidiary from 
partially completed saloon body shells.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Jul  9 10:10:47 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 10:10:47 -0600
Subject: [TR] L means what?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18329.1215610535.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.18329.1215610535.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <9DD28453-DD50-4C8B-A255-A7E30B7B1654@telus.net>

Paul
  B, as in BW stands for Borg Warner, the company that made the  
automatic transmission.

Also a part of Jaguar serial numbers if so equipped.


On 9-Jul-08, at 7:35 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
> Do you know what the 'B' or 'SC' stands for literally?
> Paul

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul  9 12:11:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 11:11:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] L means what?
In-Reply-To: <008a01c8e1c8$b8f40dd0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <070920080302.744.48742A62000CA790000002E822165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><08a601c8e191$d5458630$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<008a01c8e1c8$b8f40dd0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <0c7601c8e1ef$430edce0$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> But am I right in saying that there is no difference in a TR2 - TR3
> chassis
> just because it's LHD?  

I guess it depends on the definition of "chassis".  To me, the steering box
is part of the chassis, and obviously it's different between LHD and RHD.
The rear springs were also 'handed', assembled to the frame differently
depending on whether the resulting car was LHD or RHD.

Randall

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Wed Jul  9 12:57:56 2008
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 14:57:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Adaptor Brackets
Message-ID: <c3a.3af97d8a.35a66434@aol.com>

About a week ago, someone here on the list mentioned adaptor brackets he will 
be selling - to fit Miata seats to Triumphs.   I assumed they were to fit 
TR6's.   I'd like to put a set into my TR4A.
Would the poster please contact me so we can discuss this application?   
Thanks in advance!
George Haynes


**************
Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and 
the live music scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!
      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jul  9 15:24:29 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 14:24:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] L means what?
References: <070920080302.744.48742A62000CA790000002E822165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><08a601c8e191$d5458630$0201a8c0@Bevan><008a01c8e1c8$b8f40dd0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<0c7601c8e1ef$430edce0$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <003201c8e20a$2c02f200$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

This whole controversy can usually be attributed to the often misused term,
"Chassis Number".  This is often misused to point to what is in reality the
"Commission number".  For it is the commission number that contains the L.
There is also a number stamped onto the chassis (or frame) but that is only
a part of the number of assemblies that make up the complete car.  Only the
Commission Number defines the entire finished vehicle and therefore the "L"
suffix applies.

I may be wrong, but I sincerely doubt you will ever find an "L" suffix on a
frame serial number.

Joe C.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] L means what?


> > But am I right in saying that there is no difference in a TR2 - TR3
> > chassis
> > just because it's LHD?
>
> I guess it depends on the definition of "chassis".  To me, the steering
box
> is part of the chassis, and obviously it's different between LHD and RHD.
> The rear springs were also 'handed', assembled to the frame differently
> depending on whether the resulting car was LHD or RHD.
>
> Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Wed Jul  9 17:57:23 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 19:57:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] anti-rusting rubber dip?, driveway cleaner?
Message-ID: <00be01c8e21f$898d1fd0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

My soldering is very bad plus I've been told that wiring in  cars ought not be
soldered.  Soldering does not allow minute vibrations of the connection thus
yielding broken wires.  However, on a particular connection on the back of my
console, I resorted to soldering 'part' of the wiring on a connection.
    First, I used a tiny amount of (driveway cleaning grade) muriatic acid
poured over galvanized sheet metal (for the zinc).  This reaction gives off a
dangerously fuming boil, but it will clean metals allowing the soldering to
work.  Most likely, this is not a preferred method, however, it worked!  The
problem now is that the tiny steel/brass terminal looks like it will rust.
Although this may not happen to the brass, I was wondering if coating a
connection with 'rubberized dip' will halt the rusting?
    I later made up another quart-size batch of muriatic acid/galvanized metal
solution.  When it  began the rolling boil-like-reaction, I threw it on a
portion of the driveway which was completly rust and oil stained.  I was
amazed at the brand new appearance of this section of the driveway and plan to
do it on a larger scale soon.  It might work slightly better if one threw it
on wet pavement, but I haven't tried that yet!

Thanks, Paul

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 764 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From fmags at cox.net  Wed Jul  9 19:03:57 2008
From: fmags at cox.net (fmags)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 20:03:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 gas mileage
Message-ID: <009801c8e228$d4a2afe0$0201a8c0@debo9w9s34m23y>

Anybody know the gas mileage of a Spitfire 1500?  Considering getting an
average condition one to go back and forth to work in; has to get better
mileage than my truck or the Stag :).

Thanks,
Frank

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Jul  9 21:56:53 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2008 23:56:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 gas mileage
In-Reply-To: <009801c8e228$d4a2afe0$0201a8c0@debo9w9s34m23y>
Message-ID: <48755045.22918.DC761E3@localhost>

On 9 Jul 2008 at 20:03, fmags wrote:

> Anybody know the gas mileage of a Spitfire 1500?

Can't say I've ever measured it carefully but I think I get upper 
30's running on the highway at legal speeds with overdrive.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Thu Jul 10 06:13:59 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 08:13:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 gas mileage
Message-ID: <d1a.2615ba78.35a75707@aol.com>

My 1970 Mk3 (twin SUs - 1296 engine) would return an average of 30 "around  
town" and easily reach 33 to 35 on a trip but that was on 92 octane fuel.   I'm 
not sure if the single carb 1500 Spits can effectively run on "regular" (89  
octane) but, if so, you'd get more overall savings from a Mk4 model.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 7/9/2008 6:05:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fmags at cox.net writes:

Anybody  know the gas mileage of a Spitfire  1500?




**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music 
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From ray at raysmg.com  Thu Jul 10 06:34:00 2008
From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 05:34:00 -0700
Subject: [TR]
 =?utf-8?q?anti-rusting_rubber_dip=3F=2C_driveway_cleaner=3F?=
Message-ID: <20080710053400.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.849bd9aa17.wbe@email.secureserver.net>

Not soldering? That's news to me.

Muriatic acid will clean concrete. I recently applied U-CoatIt epoxy to
the floor in my new garage and the first and most essential step is a
thorough cleaning, even new concrete. Their recommended strength for the
acid was roughly 8 parts water to 1 part acid. Even at that strength,
it's nasty stuff..you wouldn't want to get it on you and you need to
work in a ventilated area.

Ray

Ray McCaleb
ray at raysmg.com
http://www.raysmg.com

From auprichard at comcast.net  Thu Jul 10 08:34:12 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 10:34:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] L means what?
In-Reply-To: <0c7601c8e1ef$430edce0$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <070920080302.744.48742A62000CA790000002E822165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><08a601c8e191$d5458630$0201a8c0@Bevan><008a01c8e1c8$b8f40dd0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<0c7601c8e1ef$430edce0$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <000301c8e29a$0599ddf0$4dac134c@DCH6RFC1>

Randall:

Are you sure the springs on a TR3 are "handed" ? They do not have separate
part numbers and come (from Moss at least) as a pair with no indication of
sidedness.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Randall
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 2:12 PM
Cc: 'list Triumph'
Subject: Re: [TR] L means what?

> But am I right in saying that there is no difference in a TR2 - TR3
> chassis
> just because it's LHD?  

I guess it depends on the definition of "chassis".  To me, the steering box
is part of the chassis, and obviously it's different between LHD and RHD.
The rear springs were also 'handed', assembled to the frame differently
depending on whether the resulting car was LHD or RHD.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 10 09:27:02 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 08:27:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] L means what?
In-Reply-To: <000301c8e29a$0599ddf0$4dac134c@DCH6RFC1>
References: <070920080302.744.48742A62000CA790000002E822165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><08a601c8e191$d5458630$0201a8c0@Bevan><008a01c8e1c8$b8f40dd0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0c7601c8e1ef$430edce0$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<000301c8e29a$0599ddf0$4dac134c@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <022501c8e2a1$677c23a0$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Are you sure the springs on a TR3 are "handed" ? They do not have separate
> part numbers and come (from Moss at least) as a pair with no indication of
> sidedness.

Yup, I'm sure, at least for the later cars (like Paul's).  

At commission number TS26904 (according to the SPC), the passenger side rear
spring was changed to P/N 303306 while the driver's side stayed 301017.  
http://tinyurl.com/5doooo

Visually at least, the only difference in the new passenger side spring is
the addition of a very short leaf that acts as a spacer between the main
leaf and axle, plus ISTR a longer center bolt to accommodate the increased
thickness.  But the SPC lists a different main leaf as well ... perhaps it's
a kit that includes the spacer & bolt?

The story I recall is that the spacer was added to lower the passenger side
of the car slightly; to meet some odd race requirement that the car be level
"as raced" without a passenger.  But I don't recall where I read that
offhand, and I might be mistaken about that part.  

Of course the car will handle just fine without the spacer; so I don't blame
Moss (et al) for not supplying it.  It's amazing to me that one can even buy
rear springs for a 50 year old car, even without a spacer that most people
don't know exists (and is easy enough to fabricate).

But, we were talking about how the factory assembled the cars, and they put
in the spacer.

BTW, the Moss catalog also doesn't mention the P/N 208636 and 208637 springs
fitted to early TR4.  Anyone know the difference?  The supersessions shown
by TRF and Revington do not appear to have been factory-blessed; at least
they don't appear in my list apparently published some time after 1966.

Randall

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Thu Jul 10 18:15:30 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 19:15:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] anti-rusting rubber dip?, driveway cleaner?
Message-ID: <20080711001530.5156.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>

I think you created you own version of killed spirits (Zinc Chloride) flux, which works well (in both home grown and commercial versions) as an acid based flux for soft soldered joints.  

Flux is intended to assist in the cleaning process and to reduce the risk of oxidization of the joint being soldered.  Acid flux is more agressive than the Rosin-based flux in that role, so it does help the novice make the joint more easily ... however, the acid flux leaves an acidic residue on the joint.  Not a problem if you can just pick up the assembly and bung it in a big water tank and wash thoroughly  .... there really isn't any easy way of washing of that residue under your dash.

Electrical solder is Rosin cored so that it behaves benignly after soldering: there is no need to do anything more.

I think you may be storing up a problem that will reappear after a few months, when you have experienced some humid and damp days ... just wait for the gauge gremlins .... don't ask me how I know!!!!

Tony Gordon

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: dorpaul <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
>  Subject: [TR] anti-rusting rubber dip?, driveway cleaner?
>  Sent: Jul 09 '08 18:57
>  
>  My soldering is very bad plus I've been told that wiring in  cars ought not be
>  soldered.  Soldering does not allow minute vibrations of the connection thus
>  yielding broken wires.  However, on a particular connection on the back of my
>  console, I resorted to soldering 'part' of the wiring on a connection.
>      First, I used a tiny amount of (driveway cleaning grade) muriatic acid
>  poured over galvanized sheet metal (for the zinc).  This reaction gives off a
>  dangerously fuming boil, but it will clean metals allowing the soldering to
>  work.  Most likely, this is not a preferred method, however, it worked!  The
>  problem now is that the tiny steel/brass terminal looks like it will rust.
>  Although this may not happen to the brass, I was wondering if coating a
>  connection with 'rubberized dip' will halt the rusting?
>      I later made up another quart-size batch of muriatic acid/galvanized metal
>  solution.  When it  began the rolling boil-like-reaction, I threw it on a
>  portion of the driveway which was completly rust and oil stained.  I was
>  amazed at the brand new appearance of this section of the driveway and plan to
>  do it on a larger scale soon.  It might work slightly better if one threw it
>  on wet pavement, but I haven't tried that yet!
>  
>  Thanks, Paul

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Jul 10 20:08:40 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 21:08:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] L means what?
References: <070920080302.744.48742A62000CA790000002E822165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><08a601c8e191$d5458630$0201a8c0@Bevan><008a01c8e1c8$b8f40dd0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0c7601c8e1ef$430edce0$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><000301c8e29a$0599ddf0$4dac134c@DCH6RFC1>
	<022501c8e2a1$677c23a0$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <6C3895C2E40A4A75BB8E5E66036095D9@KARL>

Revington offers several different lengths in the same spring-rate (for the 
fronts anyway) so it's quite possible to make a set of "compensated" front 
springs.  And they have the aluminum spacer for the rear, too - at least for 
TR4's.

Karl


>> Are you sure the springs on a TR3 are "handed" ? They do not have 
>> separate
>> part numbers and come (from Moss at least) as a pair with no indication 
>> of
>> sidedness.
>
> Yup, I'm sure, at least for the later cars (like Paul's).
>
> At commission number TS26904 (according to the SPC), the passenger side 
> rear
> spring was changed to P/N 303306 while the driver's side stayed 301017.
> http://tinyurl.com/5doooo
>
> Visually at least, the only difference in the new passenger side spring is
> the addition of a very short leaf that acts as a spacer between the main
> leaf and axle, plus ISTR a longer center bolt to accommodate the increased
> thickness.  But the SPC lists a different main leaf as well ... perhaps 
> it's
> a kit that includes the spacer & bolt?
>
> The story I recall is that the spacer was added to lower the passenger 
> side
> of the car slightly; to meet some odd race requirement that the car be 
> level
> "as raced" without a passenger.  But I don't recall where I read that
> offhand, and I might be mistaken about that part.
>
> Of course the car will handle just fine without the spacer; so I don't 
> blame
> Moss (et al) for not supplying it.  It's amazing to me that one can even 
> buy
> rear springs for a 50 year old car, even without a spacer that most people
> don't know exists (and is easy enough to fabricate).
>
> But, we were talking about how the factory assembled the cars, and they 
> put
> in the spacer.
>
> BTW, the Moss catalog also doesn't mention the P/N 208636 and 208637 
> springs
> fitted to early TR4.  Anyone know the difference?  The supersessions shown
> by TRF and Revington do not appear to have been factory-blessed; at least
> they don't appear in my list apparently published some time after 1966.
>
> Randall

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Jul 10 20:19:03 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 20:19:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] L means what?
In-Reply-To: <000301c8e29a$0599ddf0$4dac134c@DCH6RFC1>
References: <070920080302.744.48742A62000CA790000002E822165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><08a601c8e191$d5458630$0201a8c0@Bevan><008a01c8e1c8$b8f40dd0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0c7601c8e1ef$430edce0$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<000301c8e29a$0599ddf0$4dac134c@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <001d01c8e2fc$7e422840$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Notice that there is a spacer on the right-hand spring, to add a little
extra tension presuming the car is driven without a passenger most of the
time.  Maybe, even for a little torque compensation??

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 8:34 AM
To: 'Randall'
Cc: 'list Triumph'
Subject: Re: [TR] L means what?

Randall:

Are you sure the springs on a TR3 are "handed" ? They do not have separate
part numbers and come (from Moss at least) as a pair with no indication of
sidedness.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Randall
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 2:12 PM
Cc: 'list Triumph'
Subject: Re: [TR] L means what?

> But am I right in saying that there is no difference in a TR2 - TR3 
> chassis just because it's LHD?

I guess it depends on the definition of "chassis".  To me, the steering box
is part of the chassis, and obviously it's different between LHD and RHD.
The rear springs were also 'handed', assembled to the frame differently
depending on whether the resulting car was LHD or RHD.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1545 - Release Date: 7/10/2008
6:43 PM

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Thu Jul 10 17:47:20 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 18:47:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] hub pullers
Message-ID: <20080710234720.27340.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>

Hi Ted,

Apart from the original prototype, I don't have any pullers left .. they were all built to order at the time.  I'm not sure if you knew that the hubs were produced at my local Career Tech Center by the students as a project, which made them pretty affordable  ... the instructor has now moved and the program no longer does any kind of production work, so I can't help on that front any longer.

I did come across a posting on the 6Pack website of someone who had fabricated a similar design of hub puller, and if that was used in conjuction with my notes, I think you would be in good shape.  His email address is fr.faucher at videotron.ca ... it might be worth contacting Rick Patton since I believe he made a puller for his own use.  I can also send you the Autocad or PDF drawings for the puller and the wrenches if you can find someone local who can make one, and I can send my dismantling notes as well (the Canadian guy doesn't send any info with his puller I believe).

**************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Ted <triumph66 at gmail.com>
>  Subject: Re: [TR] hub pullers
>  Sent: Jul 10 '08 15:55
>  
>  Hi Tony,
>  
>  Would you happen to have any hub pullers on hand for sale?  If not, how
>  big a run would you need to have your machine shop run an order?
>  
>  All my best,
>  
>  Ted Liberti
>  State College, PA

From banjonut at verizon.net  Thu Jul 10 22:00:04 2008
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 21:00:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lug bolt thread sizes & brakes
Message-ID: <00d201c8e30a$9a2911a0$6400a8c0@HAMPC>

Listers.....I need some help.

I'm trying to reassemble my '60 TR3A, which has been a large pile of parts 
for a long time.  Just before I disassembled it (a very LONG time ago) I 
remember discovering that the lug bolts on the L/H front wheel were a 
different thread from those on the R/H side.  The reason for this is a 
mystery, but now I'm trying to straighten out the problem since I plan to 
eventually use Minilite wheels (or a reasonable facsimile), and I want the 
matching lug nuts to fit.

Trouble is I don't know which thread size is correct, so I don't know which 
ones to replace.  Therefore I'm bugging the list again....does anybody know?

Also, does anyone know the minimum thickness for a TR3A brake rotor...how 
thin can you machine it?

Please contact me via my home email  banjonut at verizon.net  since I get the 
digest form of the list.

Thanks in advance,

Steve Ball
Lompoc CA

'60 TR3A
TS68164L 

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Jul 10 22:00:04 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 23:00:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] L means what?
References: <070920080302.744.48742A62000CA790000002E822165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><08a601c8e191$d5458630$0201a8c0@Bevan><008a01c8e1c8$b8f40dd0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0c7601c8e1ef$430edce0$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><000301c8e29a$0599ddf0$4dac134c@DCH6RFC1>
	<001d01c8e2fc$7e422840$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <89EBB5DD203542619E190BFDDCE43E6E@KARL>

As Randall pointed out earlier, the spacer actually drops that side of the 
car, as the axle is on top of the leaf springs.

Interestingly, BTW, the TR4 parts manual only lists left and right springs 
for LHD cars - RHD cars have identical springs.  Must be that we Yanks were 
fatter then too  ;-)


> Notice that there is a spacer on the right-hand spring, to add a little
> extra tension presuming the car is driven without a passenger most of the
> time.  Maybe, even for a little torque compensation??
>
> Bill B

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 11 00:24:13 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 23:24:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] L means what?
In-Reply-To: <89EBB5DD203542619E190BFDDCE43E6E@KARL>
Message-ID: <20080711062414.LMER18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Interestingly, BTW, the TR4 parts manual only lists left and 
> right springs for LHD cars - RHD cars have identical springs. 

That IS interesting.  But as I read mine, it lists handed springs for both
RHD and LHD to CT2829; then only LHD cars to CT23382 (when they all changed
to the arched springs with the tall alloy spacers).

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 11 00:29:06 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 23:29:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lug bolt thread sizes & brakes
In-Reply-To: <00d201c8e30a$9a2911a0$6400a8c0@HAMPC>
Message-ID: <20080711062906.LKBO4153.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Trouble is I don't know which thread size is correct, so I 
> don't know which ones to replace.  Therefore I'm bugging the 
> list again....does anybody know?

As I recall, they are 7/16-20; right hand threads on both sides.

> Also, does anyone know the minimum thickness for a TR3A brake 
> rotor...how thin can you machine it?

Again from memory, stock thickness is .500", minimum is .440".

But I've seen people run them much thinner and get away with it.  The TR3
rotors are really big compared to the weight of the car, so they don't work
as hard as other brakes do.  (The heavier TR6 actually had smaller rotors
than the TR3.)

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 11 00:40:06 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 23:40:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] hub pullers
In-Reply-To: <20080710234720.27340.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>
Message-ID: <20080711064006.LFON8951.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I'm not 
> sure if you knew that the hubs were produced at my local 
> Career Tech Center by the students as a project, which made 
> them pretty affordable 

I've got your plans Tony, and a lathe, but haven't stumbled across a
suitable chunk of steel yet.  Any suggestions on where to find one cheap ?

And for anyone who is interested, I have a copy of an article originally
written by Eugene Wellenstein (but apparently no longer on the web) about
how he made a hub puller from some heavy pipe flanges and other hardware
items, with only simple machining and no welding.  PDF format, about 3/4
meg.

Randall

From banjonut at verizon.net  Fri Jul 11 00:48:55 2008
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 23:48:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lug bolt thread sizes & brakes
References: <20080711062906.LKBO4153.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <013801c8e322$308a1c90$6400a8c0@HAMPC>

Thanks Randall,

That's good news.  I measured the R/H hub (the one that's currently off the 
car) using a die, and I got  7/16 - 20, so it looks like I'm in good shape 
there.  I haven't started working on the L/H suspension yet, so I'll replace 
those bolts when I get it torn apart for rebuild in a week or two.  Who 
knows what size those bolts are...could even be metric for all I know.  The 
car's history is a mystery!

I'll have a machine shop check the thickness of the rotors tomorrow, and 
hopefully they can turn them without removing too much material.

Thanks again for your help,

Steve

TR lesson #1:  No matter what they say, there's no such thing as a free car!

================

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Steve Ball'" <banjonut at verizon.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 11:29 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Lug bolt thread sizes & brakes


>
>> Trouble is I don't know which thread size is correct, so I
>> don't know which ones to replace.  Therefore I'm bugging the
>> list again....does anybody know?
>
> As I recall, they are 7/16-20; right hand threads on both sides.
>
>> Also, does anyone know the minimum thickness for a TR3A brake
>> rotor...how thin can you machine it?
>
> Again from memory, stock thickness is .500", minimum is .440".
>
> But I've seen people run them much thinner and get away with it.  The TR3
> rotors are really big compared to the weight of the car, so they don't 
> work
> as hard as other brakes do.  (The heavier TR6 actually had smaller rotors
> than the TR3.)
>
> Randall

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Fri Jul 11 07:40:25 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 08:40:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] L means what?
References: <20080711062414.LMER18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <A3C051F2A45044ABB04B671E33800B57@KARL>

Oops - didn't look that high up on the page.....

Karl



>> Interestingly, BTW, the TR4 parts manual only lists left and
>> right springs for LHD cars - RHD cars have identical springs.
>
> That IS interesting.  But as I read mine, it lists handed springs for both
> RHD and LHD to CT2829; then only LHD cars to CT23382 (when they all 
> changed
> to the arched springs with the tall alloy spacers).
>
> Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 11 09:04:44 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 08:04:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stag diff rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <1E055A58FA3D4E98A4983594AD46A55C@EricButschekPC>
Message-ID: <20080711150444.PRRC4153.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Was wondering how you're Differential rebuild went...

"What a long, strange trip it's been."
<G>

Just finished putting it back together last night; hoping to get it back in
the car this weekend.  But it's kind of stiff, so I can't quite shake the
idea I should pull it apart again ... haven't made a final decision yet.

One of the frustrating things was that it turns out this diff is not
originally from a Stag, even though it was sold to me as a Stag diff and
fits in the car fine.  I learned this when one of the new bearings didn't
fit; turns out the diff is from a 2.5PI Estate, which has a larger input
bearing than the Stag does.  After having another wrong bearing overnighted
from TRF (my fault, wrong part number), I finally got the right one by
looking up the Stanpart number on Rimmers website (they cover the 2.5PI
Estate) and ordering that P/N from TRF.

> Were you able to find various shims?

Shims turned out to be no problem.  I did buy some from MMC, but wound up
not using them.  TRF had everything necessary, though, I just bought from
MMC because I could run over there and pick them up.

> How did you "set up" the ring and pinion clearances?

Tedious trial and error.  Actually I was fortunate, 3 of the 4 original shim
packs turned out to still be correct (after replacing shims damaged in
disassembly).  The contact pattern between ring & pinion turned out perfect,
first time.  I've heard this is usually the case, if they were correctly set
up before; as the bearings are precision machined and match very closely.
So, I started out by grinding the old bearings a bit, so they would slip in
and out of place easily, and used them for initial shim checks.

But the replacement input bearing turned out to be a lot different than the
one that came out, so the pinion preload was way off.  The original shim
pack was .030", I got down to .003" before the preload was within spec.
That's 7 trial assemblies (.030", .028", .012", .010", .008", .005", .003")
plus a few extras I did to convince myself that the shims were actually
controlling the preload.  Fortunately, the input bearing can be removed
without damaging the shim pack, so I didn't have to use new shims every
time.

Took some photos, so maybe if it works out well, I'll write up a tech
article on the process.

Randall

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Fri Jul 11 09:14:55 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 08:14:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] hub pullers
References: <20080711064006.LFON8951.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <013901c8e368$e001afd0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Hi Randall,

If you can send me a copy of the plans for the hub puller that you said that
could be made out of heavy pipe flanges, I would be very appreciative.
I assuming it work for the TR3 as well as other TRs.
Sincerely,
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Randall
  Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 11:40 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] hub pullers


  > I'm not
  > sure if you knew that the hubs were produced at my local
  > Career Tech Center by the students as a project, which made
  > them pretty affordable

  I've got your plans Tony, and a lathe, but haven't stumbled across a
  suitable chunk of steel yet.  Any suggestions on where to find one cheap ?

  And for anyone who is interested, I have a copy of an article originally
  written by Eugene Wellenstein (but apparently no longer on the web) about
  how he made a hub puller from some heavy pipe flanges and other hardware
  items, with only simple machining and no welding.  PDF format, about 3/4
  meg.

  Randall
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From markvaden at gmail.com  Fri Jul 11 10:45:11 2008
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 09:45:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Coil failure
In-Reply-To: <285b8a860807110943g24198609l73f3faf7e00f8065@mail.gmail.com>
References: <285b8a860807110943g24198609l73f3faf7e00f8065@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <285b8a860807110945r7d200887pdfe2f28082e7f283@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All,

Last night my car suddenly died. It turned out to be the coil, which
was easy to change. Unfortunately I had been shuffling around my
spares, and I left the coil at home and had to get towed home. Between
my race TR4 and my street TR4 this is the 4th coil I had fail in the
last 4 years. Is anyone else having this problem? Does anyone have a
recommendation for the best coil for a TR4. The last 2 coils that
failed on my TR4 were lucas sport coils.

TIA,
Mark

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 11 10:56:27 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 11:56:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Coil failure
References: <285b8a860807110943g24198609l73f3faf7e00f8065@mail.gmail.com>
	<285b8a860807110945r7d200887pdfe2f28082e7f283@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000601c8e377$10da8970$448ca8c0@garage.local>

i'm going to go out on a limb here; i'm hardly qualifed to answer given my 
knowledge compared to the level of expertise on the list.

if the coils are constantly failing, perhaps that is a symptom rather than a 
cause.  in my very limited experience with these cars, i have found that 
something constantly going bad indicates another problem.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Vaden" <markvaden at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 11:45 AM
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Coil failure


> Hi All,
>
> Last night my car suddenly died. It turned out to be the coil, which
> was easy to change. Unfortunately I had been shuffling around my
> spares, and I left the coil at home and had to get towed home. Between
> my race TR4 and my street TR4 this is the 4th coil I had fail in the
> last 4 years. Is anyone else having this problem? Does anyone have a
> recommendation for the best coil for a TR4. The last 2 coils that
> failed on my TR4 were lucas sport coils.
>
> TIA,
> Mark 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 11 11:03:52 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 10:03:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Coil failure
In-Reply-To: <285b8a860807110945r7d200887pdfe2f28082e7f283@mail.gmail.com>
References: <285b8a860807110943g24198609l73f3faf7e00f8065@mail.gmail.com>
	<285b8a860807110945r7d200887pdfe2f28082e7f283@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <04ad01c8e378$18faf620$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Does anyone have a
> recommendation for the best coil for a TR4. The last 2 coils that
> failed on my TR4 were lucas sport coils.

My suggestion is to not give the Prince of Darkness the chance.  ANY other
make of coil will be more reliable.  A common (cheap) American coil can be
used by adding a suitable ballast resistor.  Both coil and resistor should
be available at any auto parts store.  Of course you may also need to change
the high tension lead terminal, if you are still using the original screw-in
type.  Again, the terminal is available at your FLAPS.

Or, TRF has Pertronix coils on sale, that should also do fine.  Your choice
of PTR201 in black for $38.48 or for $4.50 more you can have PTR203 in
chrome.

My TR3A is still wearing the coil I bought at K-mart over 20 years (and lots
of miles) ago.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Jul 11 11:08:20 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 13:08:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Coil failure
In-Reply-To: <000601c8e377$10da8970$448ca8c0@garage.local>
Message-ID: <48775B44.5359.15C2538A@localhost>

On 11 Jul 2008 at 11:56, Oliver wrote:

> i'm hardly qualifed to answer given my knowledge compared to
> the level of expertise on the list.

Same here (but that never stopped me).

> if the coils are constantly failing, perhaps that is
> a symptom rather than a cause. 

Agreed.  It suggests the coil is overheating, maybe.  Should there be 
a resitor in the primary circuit that is missing?  Could you having a 
bad condensor, perhaps shorted?  (Just a guess.)  Are you points 
staying closed too much because perhaps the cam follower is wearing 
too fast?

My Spitfire has a Lucas CEI ignition and I think a Lucas Sport coil.  
It has run faithfully for 20 years, except once when the engine was 
rebuilt and the solid-state thingy in the CEI box turned out to be a 
GM module so repalcement was trivial.  Of course, now it will 
probably fail tomorrow.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Fri Jul 11 12:01:15 2008
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 14:01:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18564.1215794695.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF0409CA77.1729F41D-ON85257483.0060C5E3-85257483.00630089@gsk.com>

I have previously read of this caution, regarding soldered wire 
connections in cars, as Paul reported:


>  My soldering is very bad plus I've been told that wiring in  cars ought 
not be
>  soldered.  Soldering does not allow minute vibrations of the connection 
thus
>  yielding broken wires. 

Is this urban myth, or is there truth to it?

I was a keen touring motorcyclist and added a great deal of electrical 
componentry to my motorcycle via an Autocom control system to 'manage' to 
in-helmet speakers with each of CB, Cellphone, Music/Radio, Radar 
detector, and GPS. The protocol for joining wires among the motorcycle 
groups I knew (online and in-person) was to solder and protect with 
heat-shrink wrapping around the joint. My memory of riding tells me that 
motorcycles are subject to more vibration than cars (a wider range and 
greater intensity). I don't recall a well-soldered joint in wiring failing 
on my motorcycle.

Having been 'up close and personal' with my car's voltage control box 
recently, I noted there were several soldered joints in that unit. They 
should vibrate more than a loosely held wire.

Brian

From fishplate at charter.net  Fri Jul 11 13:33:40 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 15:33:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
In-Reply-To: <OF0409CA77.1729F41D-ON85257483.0060C5E3-85257483.00630089@
	gsk.com>
References: <mailman.18564.1215794695.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<OF0409CA77.1729F41D-ON85257483.0060C5E3-85257483.00630089@gsk.com>
Message-ID: <20080711193341.KVJZ3533.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 02:01 PM 7/11/2008, Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com wrote:
>I have previously read of this caution, regarding soldered wire
>connections in cars

<snip>


>Is this urban myth, or is there truth to it?

<another snip>

>The protocol for joining wires among the motorcycle
>groups I knew (online and in-person) was to solder and protect with
>heat-shrink wrapping around the joint.

The heat shrink tubing will go a long way toward relieving the strain 
at the joint, preventing the wire from flexing in and around the solder.

Having said that, I'm not sure I see the difference between a 
properly crimped tight joint and a properly soldered joint.  Either 
one will flex where one can least afford it; I suspect it's easier to 
properly crimp a joint rather than solder it, and maybe this is where 
the difference lies.  I have always soldered wires where possible, 
and don't recall any failures.

Back when I was a Schmieraffe, the major German auto maker whose 
vehicles I serviced sent out a wiring repair that consisted of a new 
relay socket and a handful of insulation displacement connectors 
(IDCs, aka ScotchLok).  That was one of the worst ideas ever 
conceived for an automobile...

My advice is either solder or crimp, but make sure you have the 
proper tools for the job.  Hint:  that pressed-steel crimp tool from 
Harbor Freight is not the correct tool...

<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92410>

These might do for the home mechanic - I'll have to look next time 
I'm by the HF store:

<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93977>

<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97420>

Cheers!




Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul 11 13:42:15 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 15:42:15 EDT
Subject: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
Message-ID: <c95.32e237f7.35a91197@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/11/2008 1:05:47 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com writes: 
> >  My soldering is very bad plus I've been told that wiring in  cars ought 
> not be
> >  soldered.  Soldering does not allow minute vibrations of the connection 
> thus
> >  yielding broken wires. 
> 
> Is this urban myth, or is there truth to it?
> 
Good question.  As I like to say, you can prove anything you want with 
anecdotal evidence.  I suppose that some poorly executed wiring with soldered 
connections have failed.  But then I am sure that some poorly executed non-soldered 
connections have failed as well.  

The two potential failure modes with soldered connections that come to mind 
are:
1) residual flux causing corrosion, and 
2) mechanical stress transfer to the end of the solder wicking.
The first on is the result of using acid flux and not washing the residue 
away.  (This has been touched on before) Rinsing can be problematic as it can 
wick up the wires underneath the insulation where rinsing it out is not very 
easy.  Always us rosin or "No Clean" flux which leaves a benign residue.

The second is the result of the mechanical flexing of the harness 
transmitting all the forces to the point where the solder, that has wicked into the 
strands, ends.  This can cause stress hardening of the wires at that point and 
fatigue will cause the wires to break.  The preventative cure for this is to 
secure the harness at a point close to the connection that will absorb the 
mechanical forces and keep them from stressing the soldered part of the wire.

On a TR3, especially the early ones, there are a lot of connections that use 
screws to clamp the wires to the terminal.  In these types of connections a 
tinned, stranded wire will act as a solid wire except that the lead/tin alloy is 
less resilient than is copper.  That means that as the connection heats up 
and cools down the compression forces will vary.  If the force heats up enough 
the lead/tin will flow (since it is malleable) and will permanently change 
dimension.  When it cools back down the connection forces are much reduced.  
Copper will spring back to a greater degree than will lead/tin and will retain 
connection pressure much better.  This is the aluminum house wiring situation from 
the 60's all over again.  One could (or should) retorque these connections on 
an annual basis to stave off problems here.

Good, reliable wiring doesn't just happen, it is the result of attention to 
detail.  Just like everything else.

Dave   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul 11 14:07:53 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 16:07:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
Message-ID: <cca.3493c2e2.35a91799@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/11/2008 2:34:07 PM Central Daylight Time, 
fishplate at charter.net writes: 
> Having said that, I'm not sure I see the difference between a 
> properly crimped tight joint and a properly soldered joint.  Either 
> one will flex where one can least afford it; I suspect it's easier to 
> properly crimp a joint rather than solder it, and maybe this is where 
> the difference lies.  I have always soldered wires where possible, 
> and don't recall any failures.

There is a lot of engineering that has gone into the design of crimp 
terminals.  And there are differences between crimp terminals.  Some terminals will 
crimp on the exposed wire only and others crimp on both the wire and on the 
insulation a little further back.  Obviously the latter are better since this 
absorbs the stresses further away from the actual connection.

> 
> <snip>



> My advice is either solder or crimp, but make sure you have the 
> proper tools for the job.  Hint:  that pressed-steel crimp tool from 
> Harbor Freight is not the correct tool...
> 
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92410>
> 
> These might do for the home mechanic - I'll have to look next time 
> I'm by the HF store:
> 
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93977>
> 
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97420>
> 
> Cheers!

Good points, all.  $13 for decent crimpers is still cheap.  We here have a 
pair of $300 crimpers that will crimp only one type of crimp.  I have priced out 
another pair for $1000 for a special Amp crimp but I could not justify the 
expenditure.  We outsourced that part of the work to a cable house.

These crimpers will work with what you will typically find but be careful.  
These crimpers will not crimp all the crimps.  Find what types of crimps your 
crimpers will work with and stick with those.   

Dave

From daveg at online.no  Fri Jul 11 14:10:32 2008
From: daveg at online.no (David Griffiths)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 22:10:32 +0200
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
References: <OF0409CA77.1729F41D-ON85257483.0060C5E3-85257483.00630089@gsk.com>
Message-ID: <E6D6FD69-3098-4D8B-980F-914E3E6C8C70@online.no>

Just a little contribution to that thread. I restored a 1929 Chevrolet  
not long ago, with the original wiring in place. The electrical wire  
connections were soldered bullets, and the bullets of course are  
joined in a short metal sleeve. Well the woven and lacquered cotton  
insulation had fallen off most places, and was cracked and brittle,  
but never one place was any wire broken, certainly not where the  
soldered wire went over to the unsoldered metal wire. Sounds like a  
myth.

Thanks,
Dave

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com
> Date: 11 July 2008 20:01:15 GMT+02:00
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
>
> I have previously read of this caution, regarding soldered wire
> connections in cars, as Paul reported:
>
>
>> My soldering is very bad plus I've been told that wiring in  cars  
>> ought
> not be
>> soldered.  Soldering does not allow minute vibrations of the  
>> connection
> thus
>> yielding broken wires.
>
> Is this urban myth, or is there truth to it?

From ray at raysmg.com  Fri Jul 11 14:40:41 2008
From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 13:40:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Coil failure
Message-ID: <20080711134041.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.a7dc1d33de.wbe@email.secureserver.net>

   Mark,  I  replaced the coil in my TR3 just this week as well; while at
   it I also did points, plugs, condenser, and button.

   I can't say for sure that the coil I had been running since purchasing
   the  car   (3  years)  was bad, or going bad, but the chronic symptoms
   were  there.  On  very hot days, in stop and go traffic, where lots of
   heat  is  generated from under the bonnet, I would experience the loss
   of  a  cylinder  at  random.  Checks of the plugs firing at idle would
   appear more or less normal but on acceleration, loss of fire to one or
   more  cylinders  would  continue.  A rest in the shade with the bonnet
   raised, while doing some head scratching, would lead to a recovery.

   I  installed  a Pertronix coil...we'll see if that effects a long term
   cure.

   Ray

   Ray McCaleb

   ray at raysmg.com

   http://www.raysmg.com

From skip47 at clearwire.net  Fri Jul 11 16:23:54 2008
From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 15:23:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Coil failure
References: <285b8a860807110943g24198609l73f3faf7e00f8065@mail.gmail.com>
	<285b8a860807110945r7d200887pdfe2f28082e7f283@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007801c8e3a4$cee73620$6700a8c0@ZEUS>

Hi Mark-
When my TR4 was new, I was told that coils don't like heat or vibration, so
Triumph mounted them on the engine where they could get the most possible of
both.  I simply moved the coil over to the fender well.  If you're not a
purist, it looks like it belongs there, it's an easy modification -two
drilled holes- and I don't remember ever having a coil fail.
This is more about prevention, and does not dispute the other answers you've
received.  If you're failing several, the likely fix is what's already been
offered from the List.
Best,
Skip Gurnee
64 TR4
66 TR4A

> Hi All,
>
> Last night my car suddenly died. It turned out to be the coil, which
> was easy to change. Unfortunately I had been shuffling around my
> spares, and I left the coil at home and had to get towed home. Between
> my race TR4 and my street TR4 this is the 4th coil I had fail in the
> last 4 years. Is anyone else having this problem? Does anyone have a
> recommendation for the best coil for a TR4. The last 2 coils that
> failed on my TR4 were lucas sport coils.
>
> TIA,
> Mark

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Fri Jul 11 16:53:56 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 18:53:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
Message-ID: <c9c.28dac26f.35a93e84@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/11/2008 11:06:14 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com writes:

Is this  urban myth, or is there truth to it?

I was a keen touring motorcyclist  and added a great deal of electrical 
componentry to my motorcycle via an  Autocom control system to 'manage' to 
in-helmet speakers with each of CB,  Cellphone, Music/Radio, Radar 
detector, and GPS. The protocol for joining  wires among the motorcycle 
groups I knew (online and in-person) was to  solder and protect with 
heat-shrink wrapping around the joint. My memory  of riding tells me that 
motorcycles are subject to more vibration than  cars (a wider range and 
greater intensity). I don't recall a well-soldered  joint in wiring failing 
on my motorcycle.

Having been 'up close and  personal' with my car's voltage control box 
recently, I noted there were  several soldered joints in that unit. They 
should vibrate more than a  loosely held  wire.

Brian
_______________________________________________


The only mechanic who ever told me tha soldered wires would  fatigue, after I 
found a new regulator with twisted wires instead of  soldered, tended to take 
sort cuts.
Also, I worked several years at a NASA Lab, and I promise you that none of  
our spacecraft ever had twisted wires. They were soldered. I attended a class  
directed towards making sure the solder did not become a structural joint.
When I installed a brand new wiring harness in my Jaguar when I restored  it, 
several of the connector ends came off when I pulled the connection  apart. 
The mfg solution was to solder the ends on. Noneof my cars have had  a wiring 
connection fail because the joint was soldered.
Mike Moore 



**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music 
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Jul 11 17:05:04 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 19:05:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Coil failure
In-Reply-To: <007801c8e3a4$cee73620$6700a8c0@ZEUS>
References: <285b8a860807110943g24198609l73f3faf7e00f8065@mail.gmail.com>
	<285b8a860807110945r7d200887pdfe2f28082e7f283@mail.gmail.com>
	<007801c8e3a4$cee73620$6700a8c0@ZEUS>
Message-ID: <200807111905.04873.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday 11 July 2008 06:23 pm, Skip Gurnee wrote:
> Hi Mark-
> When my TR4 was new, I was told that coils don't like heat or vibration, so
> Triumph mounted them on the engine where they could get the most possible
> of both.  I simply moved the coil over to the fender well.  If you're not a
> purist, it looks like it belongs there, it's an easy modification -two
> drilled holes- and I don't remember ever having a coil fail.
> This is more about prevention, and does not dispute the other answers
> you've received.  If you're failing several, the likely fix is what's
> already been offered from the List.
> Best,
> Skip Gurnee
> 64 TR4
> 66 TR4A
>
All,

I did the same thing, first on the 3 then on the 4. Never had a failure on the 
3 which I have had since '79. Have only had the 4 for 2 seasons.

I believe they get a bit more cool air flow from the side than on the engine.

But I had to fit bolts to the mounting holes on the block as oil would leak 
out. Easy fix, just some gasket goop and 2 1/4 20 bolts.

Both have the Lucas sport coil.

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 11 17:13:09 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 16:13:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
In-Reply-To: <OF0409CA77.1729F41D-ON85257483.0060C5E3-85257483.00630089@gsk.com>
References: <mailman.18564.1215794695.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<OF0409CA77.1729F41D-ON85257483.0060C5E3-85257483.00630089@gsk.com>
Message-ID: <058501c8e3ab$af6c4400$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

Hmmm, seems like this didn't make it through before.  Apologies if it comes
through twice, but here's a shorter version :
 
> Is this urban myth, or is there truth to it?

I believe there is some truth to it.  Not that soldered joints should not be
used on cars; but that they can have problems if used incorrectly.

The issue is that if copper is flexed beyond it's yield point (which is
relatively low), it will work harden, crack and break.  A bare solder joint
leaves a sharp boundary between the stronger joint and the wire itself, such
that if the body of the wire moves due to vibration, it will flex right at
the transition from the solder, and eventually break at that point.

This problem is real, I've seen it happen.

Crimped joints, in theory, don't have the problem as much, because they
provide a gradual transition from the tightly clamped portion of the wire,
to the totally unclamped portion.  But in my experience, they suffer from
other shortcomings, primarily that of the crimp itself losing clamping
force, which eventually allows the wire to not make good, gas-tight contact.
The result is oxidation of the copper, which leads to a poor connection.
There are also problems with getting the clamping force just right to begin
with; as even the expensive calibrated ratcheting crimpers don't always get
it right (and most people don't use them or keep them calibrated).

> The protocol for joining wires among the motorcycle
> groups I knew (online and in-person) was to solder and protect with
> heat-shrink wrapping around the joint.

Heat-shrink is a good way of helping ensure that the wire does not flex at
the surface of the solder joint.

My favorite technique for terminating vehicle wires is to use a crimp-style
terminal (ring, spade, quick connect, whatever is appropriate).  I either
use un-insulated terminals, or cut the plastic insulation off; then crimp it
to the wire.  Then I solder the wire to the terminal, beyond the crimped
area, being careful not to let the solder wick all the way back through the
crimp.  Then I add heat shrink tubing (if possible) that covers from the
crimped area all the way back onto the stripped-back insulation.  This both
adds strain relief and helps protect the wire and crimped joint from air and
water.

In the nearly 30 years that I've been doing joints this way, I've never seen
one fail.  But I have seen lots of both solder-only and crimp-only joints
fail (including ones I've done).

I used to work for a company that installed computer systems onboard seismic
survey ships.  We had literally hundreds of wire connections to other ship's
systems, so I saw lots of bad joints, including crimp joints made by
professionals with those calibrated, ratcheting crimpers.  Properly
supported solder joints did better at least in that environment (and IMO).

Since the usual rule was that I couldn't go home until everything worked, I
got real interested in those joints <G>

Randall

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 11 17:51:38 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 19:51:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
References: <c9c.28dac26f.35a93e84@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c8e3b1$103da0d0$514b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

I received a phone call one day from Dan Masters to come down to his home in 
Tenn, he had designed a wiring harness just for my T/R 3 with the 
accessories installed, this was the beginning of his wiring harness business 
(Advanced Wiring), and he himself using his kit rewired my entire car, but 
he also ==soldered== each and every connection with the harness as he went 
along and then used heat shrink tubing on each soldered end, almost 15 years 
ago, in that length of time had one wiring problem and that was a stupid act 
by the driver/owner, anyway, always soldered all wiring connections, you'll 
be glad you did down the road.  "FT" 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Fri Jul 11 18:36:57 2008
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 20:36:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Coil failure
In-Reply-To: <200807111905.04873.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <285b8a860807110943g24198609l73f3faf7e00f8065@mail.gmail.com>
	<285b8a860807110945r7d200887pdfe2f28082e7f283@mail.gmail.com>
	<007801c8e3a4$cee73620$6700a8c0@ZEUS>
	<200807111905.04873.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770807111736x50dced83l6d0ad8e396654f6@mail.gmail.com>

here is my sorry contribution.

I was sure my coil was at fault.

It was very hot and when the car cooled down it ran well. To the point that
I was sure that icing down the coil was helping me get home.

Each time after about 15 mins it died.

After I changed the coil, everytihng seemed good for about a day.

Turns out I had water in the gas  - enought that I had to empty the float
bowl 2 times to get back to running well again.

Chris

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jul 11 18:44:40 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 20:44:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8e3b1$103da0d0$514b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <c9c.28dac26f.35a93e84@aol.com>
	<000c01c8e3b1$103da0d0$514b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <000601c8e3b8$79f33a10$210110ac@bobspc>

 Fred,
When I did my harness, Dan recommended the crimp and solder technique along
with heat shrink tubing. Even on the bullets that I secured with the million
dollar British Wiring bullet crimping tool, I also soldered them per Dan's
instructions.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of FRED E THOMAS
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 7:52 PM
To: MMoore8425 at aol.com; Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars

I received a phone call one day from Dan Masters to come down to his home in
Tenn, he had designed a wiring harness just for my T/R 3 with the
accessories installed, this was the beginning of his wiring harness business
(Advanced Wiring), and he himself using his kit rewired my entire car, but
he also ==soldered== each and every connection with the harness as he went
along and then used heat shrink tubing on each soldered end, almost 15 years
ago, in that length of time had one wiring problem and that was a stupid act
by the driver/owner, anyway, always soldered all wiring connections, you'll
be glad you did down the road.  "FT" 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.7/1545 - Release Date: 7/10/2008
6:43 PM

From cak at dimebank.com  Fri Jul 11 18:51:41 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 17:51:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18613.1215823483.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.18613.1215823483.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4878001D.2000203@dimebank.com>

Please read

http://www.dimebank.com/misc/soldered_connections.html

for a good discussion of the pros/cons here...

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 11 18:56:43 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 17:56:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Soldered Wire Connections in Cars
In-Reply-To: <4878001D.2000203@dimebank.com>
References: <mailman.18613.1215823483.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4878001D.2000203@dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <05ce01c8e3ba$273cb010$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

Acrobatic carburetor on a bug ... now there's a concept !

<G>

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Sat Jul 12 08:33:06 2008
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 07:33:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Coil failure
References: <285b8a860807110943g24198609l73f3faf7e00f8065@mail.gmail.com>
	<285b8a860807110945r7d200887pdfe2f28082e7f283@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001b01c8e42c$33e85fe0$0101a8c0@paulal73q2sjay>

I also had a fairly new Lucas Sports coil fail.  I grabbed an old American 
made coil out of the garage and installed it temporarily to limp the car 
home.  It's still on my TR4 5 years later.  Runs great.

Paulw
----- Original Message ----- 
> Hi All,
>
> Last night my car suddenly died. It turned out to be the coil, which
> was easy to change. Unfortunately I had been shuffling around my
> spares, and I left the coil at home and had to get towed home. Between
> my race TR4 and my street TR4 this is the 4th coil I had fail in the
> last 4 years. Is anyone else having this problem? Does anyone have a
> recommendation for the best coil for a TR4. The last 2 coils that
> failed on my TR4 were lucas sport coils.
>
> TIA,
> Mark
> _______________________________________________

From peterara at msn.com  Sat Jul 12 17:33:04 2008
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 16:33:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] coil failure
Message-ID: <BAY114-DAV827A6FBE8026FE59CD6A4C1930@phx.gbl>

OK, since everyone else is being anecdotal, though I agree it is poor science,
I will relate my experience.

Put a Lucas sport coil on my TR6 18 years ago, mounted on the side of the
block - no problems, yet.

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Jul 12 22:42:43 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 04:42:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] coil failure
Message-ID: <071320080442.11804.487987C300047CCC00002E1C22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

> OK, since everyone else is being anecdotal, though I agree it is poor science, 
> I will relate my experience. 
> 
> Put a Lucas sport coil on my TR6 18 years ago, mounted on the side of the 
> block - no problems, yet. 

Did not swap out what appears to be the original coil in my '59 TR3A when I restored everything else.  Works fine.  

Does that 49 year old coil rank as the senior on the circuit??? 

...Well, at least on this particular electrical circuit.  

Terry Smith '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul 12 23:10:12 2008
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 22:10:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] coil failure
In-Reply-To: <071320080442.11804.487987C300047CCC00002E1C22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <071320080442.11804.487987C300047CCC00002E1C22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <08795FF3-B8B3-4EFC-919E-F7A51D8F32B8@sbcglobal.net>

It was probably 10 years ago when I read in an industry newspaper that  
the people who manufacture automobile ignition coils estimate that 90  
percent of the ignition coils that are replaced have nothing wrong  
with them. I don't recall much else about the article, like how they  
reached that conclusion, but I do think about it whenever I am tempted  
to replace a coil.

Mike Denman

On Jul 12, 2008, at 9:42 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

>> OK, since everyone else is being anecdotal, though I agree it is  
>> poor science,
>> I will relate my experience.
>>
>> Put a Lucas sport coil on my TR6 18 years ago, mounted on the side  
>> of the
>> block - no problems, yet.
>
> Did not swap out what appears to be the original coil in my '59 TR3A  
> when I restored everything else.  Works fine.
>
> Does that 49 year old coil rank as the senior on the circuit???
>
> ...Well, at least on this particular electrical circuit.
>
> Terry Smith '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Jul 13 05:56:53 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 07:56:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] coil failure
Message-ID: <d19.2bbf624e.35ab4785@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/13/2008 12:16:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mikedenman at sbcglobal.net writes:

It was  probably 10 years ago when I read in an industry newspaper that  
the  people who manufacture automobile ignition coils estimate that 90   
percent of the ignition coils that are replaced have nothing wrong   
with them. I don't recall much else about the article, like how they   
reached that conclusion, but I do think about it whenever I am  tempted  
to replace a coil.


8% are standing on the side of the road insisting that there is nothing  
wrong with the coil, and 2% are replacing them.
 
BTW for those who may not know, 46.8% of all statistics are made up at the  
time they are quoted.

 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music 
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Sun Jul 13 10:14:32 2008
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake Discher)
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 12:14:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Need some help... pictures?
Message-ID: <49F6C909-E572-4F38-8774-342BF1001608@blakedischer.com>

Hi everyone,

I am putting the finishing touches on the program for the North  
American Triumph Challenge in Ypsilanti, Michigan next month.  The  
featured models are the TR250 and the 2000 Roadster.  I could use a  
few good photographs of each model for the booklet.  If you have a  
photo you'd like to share, please email it to me with your information  
so that if I use it, I can properly credit you and the car.  A few  
sentences about the car would be great as well, I think attendees  
would like to know something about the cars in the program.

Ideally, the image would be at least 1800 pixels wide, saved as a JPG  
or TIFF, and color in case it ends up on the cover.

Thanks a million!

Blake Discher
1976 TR6, 1971 Stag

From coefront at shaw.ca  Sun Jul 13 12:37:36 2008
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 12:37:36 -0600
Subject: [TR] Gas cap
Message-ID: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDEEBLDCAA.coefront@shaw.ca>

Gas cap. Anyone know of a flip top/racing/locking gas cap. The chrome type:
that to fit my TR8. Mike coefront at shaw.ca

Mike Coe

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Jul 13 14:23:54 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 20:23:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Throttle linkage
Message-ID: <071320082023.27820.487A645A0009E4A500006CAC22120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

This is so weird I'm almost reluctant to talk about it.

Lately the throttle began to feel squishy.  Idle would hang about 500 rpms higher, then slowly settle where it's supposed to be.  Pedal felt soft and there didn't seem to be the range of acceleration from suddenly standing on it like before.

Ahah!, I thought.  I have two springs under the hood to bring the throttle linkage back to rest.  One of them must have broken again resulting in the soft pedal and slow return to idle.

Well, just when you thought it was easy.  When I looked, both linkage springs were still in place and fully operational.  So I wiggled the carburetor linkage and to watch what happened.

What happened was, the flange collar on the gas pedal rod assembly that connects directly to the carburetor linkage, moved about 50% (instead of 100%) with the rotation of the rest of the gas pedal rod assemby.  The flange is connected to the main pedal rod assemby by a pin (Moss 325-345).  

When I rebuilt the assembly unit three or four years ago, I had used a simple cotter key that snugly joined the flange collar to the gas pedal assembly.  The soft metal of this cotter key, however, apparently couldn't stand up to the strain of the constant stress of daily driving.  At least that's what I assume.  

I replaced the cotter key with a strong steel finish nail of the snug fit variety, and have all the proper response I'm supposed to have again.  I do have to say, though, I saw it, and I still don't believe it.  Then again, I guess that's why the parts suppliers call for a pin and not the cotter key I used (and why I'm an English Major and not an Engineer!).

The first drive in to work on the Monday after a fix like this is always especially fun.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667)
New Hampshire

From don at napanet.net  Sun Jul 13 15:59:51 2008
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 13:59:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] Carb rebuilding
In-Reply-To: <071320082023.27820.487A645A0009E4A500006CAC22120592149C9D9
	79D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <071320082023.27820.487A645A0009E4A500006CAC22120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20080713135511.02d8a338@pop.napanet.net>

Hello listers,
I am looking at a '63 TR4 for sale that needs carbs rebuilt; one of them 
will need a new carb body.  I used to rebuild SUs in my youth, but at my 
advanced age would prefer to pay someone else to do it.  Anyone know of 
good rebuilder?  And what kind of money would I be looking at?  Thanks!
Don Scott


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1549 - Release Date: 07/12/2008 4:31 PM

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Jul 13 16:15:05 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 18:15:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] Carb rebuilding
Message-ID: <c7a.3a305068.35abd869@aol.com>

_http://www.paltech1.com/_ (http://www.paltech1.com/) 
 
Jeff Palya does good work.  His prices are on the website.  
You will receive carbs back that look like the day they left the  factory.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music 
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From jeffn at msystech.com  Sun Jul 13 18:06:18 2008
From: jeffn at msystech.com (jeffn at msystech.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 00:06:18 +0000
Subject: [TR] Carb rebuilding
Message-ID: <W9380532510104021215993978@webmail1>

Don,

 Jeff Palia does very good work and is willing to give "free advice". Also,
you should consider Joe Curto. He specialty is SU carbs.



Jeff N.

-----Original Message-----
From: don [mailto:don at napanet.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 05:59 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Carb rebuilding

Hello listers, I am looking at a '63 TR4 for sale that needs carbs rebuilt;
one of them will need a new carb body. I used to rebuild SUs in my youth, but
at my advanced age would prefer to pay someone else to do it. Anyone know of
good rebuilder? And what kind of money would I be looking at? Thanks! Don
Scott -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version:
7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1549 - Release Date: 07/12/2008 4:31 PM
_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as
jeffn at msystech.com http://www.team.net/archive

From jeffn at msystech.com  Sun Jul 13 18:08:00 2008
From: jeffn at msystech.com (jeffn at msystech.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 00:08:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] Carb rebuilding
Message-ID: <W9403918339251881215994080@webmail19>

Don,

 Jeff Palia does very good work and is willing to give "free advice". Also,
you should consider Joe Curto. He specialty is SU carbs.



Jeff N.

-----Original Message-----
From: don [mailto:don at napanet.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 05:59 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Carb rebuilding

Hello listers, I am looking at a '63 TR4 for sale that needs carbs rebuilt;
one of them will need a new carb body. I used to rebuild SUs in my youth, but
at my advanced age would prefer to pay someone else to do it. Anyone know of
good rebuilder? And what kind of money would I be looking at? Thanks! Don
Scott -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version:
7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1549

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jul 13 18:56:51 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 20:56:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carb rebuilding
In-Reply-To: <c7a.3a305068.35abd869@aol.com>
References: <c7a.3a305068.35abd869@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301c8e54c$825171f0$210110ac@bobspc>

Jeff does great work and was a pleasure to deal with. Curto is great too but
he turned me off when I asked him what his rebuilds entail and he
answered..."Whatever needs to be done".  I asked Jeff the same question and
he went into detail on what he'll do when he rebuilds your carbs. You can
see his work on my carbs here
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CarbRebuild2006.htm

I've subsequently gone to TBI which is no reflection on Jeff's work.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 6:15 PM
To: don at napanet.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuilding

_http://www.paltech1.com/_ (http://www.paltech1.com/) 
 
Jeff Palya does good work.  His prices are on the website.  
You will receive carbs back that look like the day they left the  factory.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music

scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1549 - Release Date: 7/12/2008
4:31 PM

From staffel at comcast.net  Sun Jul 13 20:30:52 2008
From: staffel at comcast.net (Sherman D. Taffel)
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 22:30:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Coil life
Message-ID: <004a01c8e559$a3821340$6401a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

Well, I have had to replace my TR4's coil several times since 1968. 1st in
Indianpolis going to NYC from Norman OKlahoma in 1970; 2nd in Baltimore in the
1980's. Typical symptom of bad coil- OK when cold- opens when HOT (99^ day
too). Then in 1999 I put a Mallory Dual Point and Lucas Sport Coil (from
MOSS)-- No problems since except blown condensor (2005).

Sherman d. Taffel
Columbia MD & Goldvein, VA
TR4 40054L
(last survivor by serial # I'm told here).

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Jul 14 02:57:25 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 04:57:25 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 Coil life
Message-ID: <c55.2dbf8618.35ac6ef5@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/13/2008 7:32:25 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
staffel at comcast.net writes:

Well, I  have had to replace my TR4's coil several times since 1968. 1st  in
Indianpolis going to NYC from Norman OKlahoma in 1970; 2nd in Baltimore  in 
the
1980's. Typical symptom of bad coil- OK when cold- opens when HOT  (99^ day
too). Then in 1999 I put a Mallory Dual Point and Lucas Sport Coil  (from
MOSS)-- No problems since except blown condensor  (2005).

Sherman d. Taffel



It has been my experience that coils frequently (ALL of mine) fail  by 
providing a weaker and weaker spark. I once read this and it is the test  I use:
 spark color 
blue-white    tops
yellow-white  great
yellow -orange  not very hot
orange-red weakest
 
I have checked coils this way for years and have replaced several coils in  
my cars when they were low on the list and have seen dramatic change in  
performance.
 
Mike Moore 
Brandywine, West Virginia



**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music 
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul 14 07:38:37 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 09:38:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Kill Switch or a Cut-off Switch
Message-ID: <001d01c8e5b6$ec362880$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I've got a 'Kill Switch or a Cut-off Switch' that I won at a VTR conference
auction.  The back side of it simply is two lugs? (like 3/8" bolts & nuts).
My guess is that this can be used in-line with the battery at the - or +side
of the battery .  I've thought about installing it several places for either
quick disconnection or anti-theft reasons.  Can I run any kind of cable or
wire to it?  How about a heavy 2-wire cable?

Thanks, Paul

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 781 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 14 08:32:26 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:32:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] VTR Convention  Route 12 Eastbound in Michigan
Message-ID: <cb7.33f1758d.35acbd7a@cs.com>

List,

I just returned from the east coast by way of Detroit.  I have thought about 
State Hiway #12 in Michigan in the past. This time I drove it.

If you are eastbound to the convention, I recommend getting off of the 
interstates and pick up #12 by at least South Bend exit.  Meandering asphalt with 
trees, antigue shops, restaurants, mom & pop motels, lakes.  Usually only small 
towns that are neat and feature great old houses.

I may never use the Interstate for this segment, again. No tolls, no trucks.

Harold's Place is a good restaurant. (Onsted Road and #12)

Joe A.   </HTML>

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Mon Jul 14 10:32:51 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 09:32:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] New Tach & Speedo Cables-TR3
Message-ID: <002401c8e5cf$42825d90$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

 I just replaced the old o.d. speedo and the tach cables for my gauges from
Moss. The old ones were causing the tach needle to jump around and the speedo
was not working much better. After replacing them both everything is working
fine, but I was wondering what is the preferred lubricant or fantasize
compound to lubricate new mechanical cables. I used powdered graphite before
installing these, because, when I pulled the inside cable out of the cable
housing it seems to be dry with no lubricant. Is this standard or is the cable
already prelube with some impregnated lubricant?

Regards,
Ibsen
'59 TR3
'71 TR6

From lherault at bu.edu  Mon Jul 14 12:09:31 2008
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 14:09:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr 6s in North Attleboro, MA
Message-ID: <004701c8e5dc$c370bb10$04d4299b@ad.bu.edu>

This past week, I put my '73 Mimosa TR-6 back on the road.  I had not
registered it since 1999.   It has 4 new tires, fresh oil and fresh
antifreeze.  Oh, and it has a tank of fresh gas too!  What a treat to drive
it again.   Now I need to get the seats rebuilt, since all the foam has
turned to dust.  That may wait for the fall though.  Coincidentally, while
driving North on Route One, I saw a white TR-6 pull onto the road going
South.   Was that anyone on this list?

Ron L

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Jul 14 11:52:39 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 18:52:39 +0100
Subject: [TR] Spitfire build quantity
Message-ID: <0a2501c8e5de$a662c390$0201a8c0@Bevan>

In a recent VTR e-zine, the following statement was made about the Spitfire.

'Long looked upon as the "entry level" Triumph, the Spitfire has been popular for a many years. Its
popularity and affordability made it the longest running Triumph production (1962-1980) and the
largest production numbers (314,332) of any Triumph produced. '

I don't know who wrote this but that person's info is more than misleading. The Spitfire was by no 
means the largest produced in terms of absolute production numbers at 314,332 units.of which US take 
was 139719 units - or 44%
The most-produced car by Standard Triumph post-war was the Herald at 626329 units. The US offtake 
for Herald was 23656 units - or 3.8%
My information source was work I undertook at BMIHT Gaydon some years ago in which Michael Cook's 
book "Triumph Across America" was very helpful in apportioning US content.

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 14 12:31:33 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 11:31:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] New Tach & Speedo Cables-TR3 - lubrication
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD646D0@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Do NOT use dry lubricant.
Wheel bearing grease is the preferred lubricant.  Put some into a rag or
towel, or better yet into the palm of your hand and draw the inner cable
through it.

Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Mon Jul 14 12:37:17 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 14:37:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 coil life
Message-ID: <c1d.430a8e9d.35acf6dd@aol.com>

Interesting Mike,
Do you do anything special to see the spark better, ie; at night time, a
magnifying glass, or one of those Gunson spark testers??
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

<>
**************
Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!

(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jul 14 12:54:47 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 18:54:47 -0000
Subject: [TR] New Tach & Speedo Cables-TR3 - lubrication
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD646D0@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <002701bd0d3e$c081afe0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Peter,
That directly contradicts everything that I have ever learned about speedo
and tach cables.  Wheel bearing grease is way too stiff to keep lower
temperatures from causing the lubricant to solidify and erratic behavior in
the instrument. It also attracts dust and other foreign matter that will
cause drag between che cable and housing.

On the other hand dry graphite lubricant does not have these attributes and
is (at least I have been led to believe) is the preferred lubricant.

Joe C.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Arakelian, Peter" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 11:31 AM
Subject: [TR] New Tach & Speedo Cables-TR3 - lubrication


> Do NOT use dry lubricant.
> Wheel bearing grease is the preferred lubricant.  Put some into a rag or
> towel, or better yet into the palm of your hand and draw the inner cable
> through it.
>
> Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Jul 14 13:02:08 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 15:02:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] Gas Cap Trivia (TR250, TR6)
Message-ID: <cb9.33fab369.35acfcb0@aol.com>

List,
 
I uncovered an original Triumph Service Bulletin issued to me in  late 
(November or December) 1969 by British Leyland, Leonia, NJ regarding  the magnet 
portion of some gas caps on TR250's and 1969 TR6's becoming detached  and posing 
a safety hazard.
 
But, what really got my interest was the second part of the bulletin which  
advised owners to take their TR250 or 1969 TR6 back to the dealer to have the  
fuel cap realigned.  Evidently, some of these models left the factory with  
fuel caps positioned with the hinge forward (push button to the rear) and  
Triumph had been advised (by whom it didn't say) that this fuel cap arrangement  
could lead to the cap flying open on impact.  So the bulletin said that the  
dealer would rotate the fuel caps 45 degrees from fore & aft to correct  the 
problem.
 
My first car was a 1969 TR6 purchased in March of 1969 and my cap was  
mounted 90 degrees from fore & aft when I bought the car.  The only  reason I really 
bring this up is that occasionally during concours judging, the  subject of 
"what's the correct alignment of the fuel cap" comes up and I've  never seen a 
TR250 or 1969 TR6 with a fuel cap at 45 degrees!!  Come to  think of it, I've 
only ever seen the rear-to-front or 90 degree  arrangment.
 
It kind of makes sense from a convenience standpoint to have the cap flip  
rear to front so one can fill the tank easily from either side of the  car.  I 
know the early TRs and my dad's 1966 Spitfire were this  way.  Has anyone ever 
seen collision data from Standard or Brit  Leyland that supports these caps 
"flying open on impact"?
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U



**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music 
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Mon Jul 14 13:19:40 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 15:19:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Throttle linkage
Message-ID: <c7b.37b9ca39.35ad00cc@aol.com>

Terry
Paul Burrows on this list has recently been fighting the same problem. He has 
tried all kinds of fixes and seems to have hit on the best solution so far.
what was your last fix Paul?
 
Frank Fisher



**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music 
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Mon Jul 14 14:06:59 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 13:06:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR Convention  Route 12 Eastbound in Michigan
In-Reply-To: <cb7.33f1758d.35acbd7a@cs.com>
References: <cb7.33f1758d.35acbd7a@cs.com>
Message-ID: <0B69B439FE7F4D409CF9C13D7E882A6D@GeoPC>

I have often cruised Hwy 12, as I recall it is a 'Blue Star Highway' --  
can't recall exactly what those are but they are usually nice drives.

I avoid interstates whenever possible and usually it is possible.  Drove US 
82 from Alamogordo to the Atlantic a few times, great way to cross the US in 
all but the coldest weather.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
> If you are eastbound to the convention, I recommend getting off of the
> interstates and pick up #12 by at least South Bend exit.  Meandering 
> asphalt with
> trees, antigue shops, restaurants, mom & pop motels, lakes.  Usually only 
> small
> towns that are neat and feature great old houses. 

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Mon Jul 14 14:14:31 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 13:14:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Kill Switch or a Cut-off Switch
In-Reply-To: <001d01c8e5b6$ec362880$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <001d01c8e5b6$ec362880$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <044BA5925BB7471CA7A32AF1508C4E75@GeoPC>

I think the switch you mention is designed to take the full load of the 
battery and thus will need cables of comparable gauge to the battery cables 
(can't recall if those are 4 gauge or 6 gauge).  You may also want the cable 
run to be as short as practical which likely has you mounting the switch on 
the cockpit side of the firewall.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
Subject: [TR] Kill Switch or a Cut-off Switch


> I've got a 'Kill Switch or a Cut-off Switch' that I won at a VTR 
> conference
> auction.  The back side of it simply is two lugs? (like 3/8" bolts & 
> nuts).
> My guess is that this can be used in-line with the battery at the - or 
> +side
> of the battery .  I've thought about installing it several places for 
> either
> quick disconnection or anti-theft reasons.  Can I run any kind of cable or
> wire to it?  How about a heavy 2-wire cable? 

From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk  Mon Jul 14 14:44:12 2008
From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 21:44:12 +0100
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Spitfire build quantity
In-Reply-To: <0a2501c8e5de$a662c390$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <20080714203338.AF703187649@autox.team.net>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net
> [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of John Macartney
> 
> The most-produced car by Standard Triumph post-war was the Herald at
> 626329 units. 

Mike Costigan quotes a figure of 548,291 for total production of all Herald
types. Adding in his Vitesse figure of 51,230 still falls short at 599,521.
Considerably more than the Spitfires whichever figure is closer to the
truth!
Cheers,
Bill.

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Jul 14 15:21:30 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 22:21:30 +0100
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Spitfire build quantity
Message-ID: <000d01c8e5f7$965bcaa0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Hi, Bill

My figures came off the build records held at Gaydon and these were also cross-referred against SMMT 
shipping data out of the factory gates. With due respect to Mike Costigan, I'd say that he and I are 
probably both wrong because the actual numbers of (perhaps) any car built by S-T post-war is an 
understatement. No-one now knows how many cars were built in CKD and SKD form for assembly at the 11 
overseas assembly plants. These figures were lost when the factory was demolished and the SMMT 
Archivist has told me the Society no longer has records of that type going back that far.
Ergo, all the numbers I have managed to cull are only for fully B/U (built-up) cars made entirely in 
Coventry, Liverpool, Solihull and Cowley.

Cheers, John


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Davies" <bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk>
To: "'John Macartney'" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>; <spitfires at autox.team.net>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 9:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Spits] Spitfire build quantity


>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of John Macartney
>>
>> The most-produced car by Standard Triumph post-war was the Herald at
>> 626329 units.
>
> Mike Costigan quotes a figure of 548,291 for total production of all Herald
> types. Adding in his Vitesse figure of 51,230 still falls short at 599,521.
> Considerably more than the Spitfires whichever figure is closer to the
> truth!
> Cheers,
> Bill.

From mmeany at ne.rr.com  Mon Jul 14 16:01:14 2008
From: mmeany at ne.rr.com (Mark Meany)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 18:01:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2-4A Parts from Fred Perry's Estate
Message-ID: <20080714220129.FWVC14962.hrndva-omta04.mail.rr.com@dads>

All,

Last December, I wrote a note indicating some parts (actually a lot) would
become available from the estate of Fred Perry. I asked what was the best
way was to let everyone know what we'd gotten together. The replies I
received suggested an ad on the VTR website & posting a note to this list.
Well, I did the former & here's the latter! I also set up a website
(amateur-ish) with parts & pics & contact info:

http://triumph-folks.homestead.com/

As parts are sold & other ones are rescued from boxes, I hope to keep both
the website & the VTR ad updated. Maybe we can get a few more TR's back out
on the open road!

Mark Meany
Keene, NH
'65 TR4A IRS O

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 14 16:22:54 2008
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 15:22:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Silent block replacement from TRf
Message-ID: <4DA41800-8CE5-41B9-AAB4-E3DCFBB52768@sbcglobal.net>

Has anyone on the list actually installed the new delrin version  
silent block (sold by TRF among others) used on the TR3 front  
suspension? Did replacing the stock bonded rubber silent blocks that  
have to twist the rubber as the car is steered with the free twisting  
delrin silent blocks actual translate into easier steering? In  
particular, I would like to hear from members who only made this one  
change before testing (I don't want to give credit to the delrin  
silent blocks if something else might have been changed at the same  
time and might be responsible for the change in steering effort).
Mike Denman

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 14 16:54:46 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 15:54:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] New Tach & Speedo Cables-TR3 - lubrication
In-Reply-To: <002701bd0d3e$c081afe0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD646E2@kb1.mossmotors.com>

 I got that information form MoMa as well as Valley Instrument.  They
say graphite will not lubricate the cable sufficiently.

Peter Arakelian



>That directly contradicts everything that I have ever learned about
speedo and tach cables.  Wheel bearing grease is way too stiff to keep
lower temperatures from causing the lubricant to solidify and erratic
behavior in the instrument. It also attracts dust and other foreign
matter that will cause drag between che cable and housing.

>On the other hand dry graphite lubricant does not have these attributes
and is (at least I have been led to believe) is the preferred lubricant.




-

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Mon Jul 14 17:00:27 2008
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake Discher)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 19:00:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mea Culpa: Spitfire build quantity
In-Reply-To: <0a2501c8e5de$a662c390$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <0a2501c8e5de$a662c390$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <62D0C010-F823-4EB0-9C5A-8505935E0BF8@blakedischer.com>

Hello everyone,

I'll take responsibility for the mis-statement of Spitfire production  
numbers as John has pointed out.  It was written by a volunteer for  
the North American Triumph Challenge next month to hype the Spitfire  
rebuild.  The guy lives and breathes Spitfires.  But in the end, it's  
my fault as I edit and assemble the monthly (almost) VTR eUpdate. I  
need a fact checker!  From now on it's gonna be Mr. Macartney!   :)

Thanks for noticing John, at least I know you're reading it!
________________________
Blake J. Discher, President
Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org
1363 East Fisher Freeway, Suite 8, Detroit, MI 48207 | Phone  
313.259.4460



On Jul 14, 2008, at 1:52 PM, John Macartney wrote:

> In a recent VTR e-zine, the following statement was made about the  
> Spitfire.
>
> 'Long looked upon as the "entry level" Triumph, the Spitfire has  
> been popular for a many years. Its
> popularity and affordability made it the longest running Triumph  
> production (1962-1980) and the
> largest production numbers (314,332) of any Triumph produced. '
>
> I don't know who wrote this but that person's info is more than  
> misleading.

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 14 17:07:40 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 16:07:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Silent block replacement from TRf
In-Reply-To: <4DA41800-8CE5-41B9-AAB4-E3DCFBB52768@sbcglobal.net>
References: <4DA41800-8CE5-41B9-AAB4-E3DCFBB52768@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <p06240805c4a18c3df951@[98.224.22.215]>

I have  done this and the change is remarkable,  bump steer is gone, 
I can imagine the "power" need to turn the wheel is less, but that is 
still under revision, I can tell you that the highway steering is 
rock solid and very predictable.

>Has anyone on the list actually installed the new delrin version 
>silent block (sold by TRF among others) used on the TR3 front 
>suspension? Did replacing the stock bonded rubber silent blocks that 
>have to twist the rubber as the car is steered with the free twisting 
>delrin silent blocks actual translate into easier steering? In 
>particular, I would like to hear from members who only made this one 
>change before testing (I don't want to give credit to the delrin 
>silent blocks if something else might have been changed at the same 
>time and might be responsible for the change in steering effort).
>Mike Denman


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Jul 14 18:13:37 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 00:13:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 For Sale:  New Hampshire
Message-ID: <071520080013.11504.487BEBB10008B02300002CF022155558849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

At the local gas station this morning, a guy spotted my TR3A. Asked me if I knew anyone in the market for a '74 TR6.  "Lots of new parts, including top, tires, brakes."  $7500.  Call Steve at (603) 568-6746.

Haven't seen the car.  NFI.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Jul 14 19:15:27 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 21:15:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] Silent block replacement from TRf
Message-ID: <d35.2f374c99.35ad542f@aol.com>

Mike,
I may have the answer you are looking for.  I rebuilt my steering  (box, et 
al) and replaced the silent blocks with the traditional.  Steered  like a 
tractor.  (go figure) Since then I have the car in restoration and  replaced my 
traditionals with the delrin.  Now, the car is fully assembled  with the body tub 
on.  I can push this car around the driveway with one  hand and steer with 
the other.  I could hardly drive it with one hand  before.  I am not starting 
the car because I have an open wiring harness in  the rear as the fenders, 
lights, etc are yet to go on.
I say this is a great product and worth every dime.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music 
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Jul 14 19:24:59 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 21:24:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] Gas Cap Trivia (TR250, TR6)
Message-ID: <cab.2e18e1e8.35ad566b@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/14/2008 2:02:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Chip19474 at aol.com writes:

Has  anyone ever 
seen collision data from Standard or Brit  Leyland that  supports these caps 
"flying open on impact"?



Pardon the morbidity, but. . .if the impact is severe enough to flip  open 
the magnetic gas cap. . .
The magnetic gas caps were deleted for the same reason in a rollover.
 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music 
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 14 19:44:16 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 21:44:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] Delrin Replacements to Silent-bloc
Message-ID: <bdf.351de430.35ad5af0@cs.com>

Bill & AnnaBelle <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:

"I have  done this and the change is remarkable,  bump steer is gone, 
I can imagine the "power" need to turn the wheel is less, but that is 
still under revision, I can tell you that the highway steering is 
rock solid and very predictable."
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------
List:

There has been a lot of speculation on why the rubber embedded "Silent-blocs" 
were used in production Triumphs.  Such as....Self Centering & Road Feedback 
Isolation.

I spent time with a Triumph Guru from London, while at Mosport, recently.  He 
added something plausible.  Here it is: 

"The TR3 frame flexes considerably and hard mounted components would wear 
quickly....". This makes sense to me. I had not thought about this.

My friend Jon Woods (UK) voluntarily applauded the Delrin Version, as Delrin 
has compliance and lubricity.  

Outside of that, I have had glowing reports on the precise handling and no 
complaints on steering effort, if not an outright perception of improvement.

It would seem that Delrin may be the best solution in a world of compromise. 
You can thank TRF for asking me to pursue this. I might have gotten lucky with 
the design. Of course later on, while talking to Jack Wheeler (National SCCA 
Champ) he told me he did this in Nylon about 15 years ago. (There are few 
original ideas, I am afraid)

Finally, it is difficult to get good rubber components from Taiwan.  It's a 
shame to put the rubber in only to have it deteriorate while it sits there.  
You should never have to replace a Delrin replacement during your lifetime.

Thanks for the kind words, Bill.  The comment about 'bump steer' was cause 
for pause. Might not be actual bump steer, as I visualize it, but a close 
cousin? Good point...with bad rubber, the toe in/toe out might be changing 
constantly. Anyone?

Thanks!

Joe A



   </HTML>

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Jul 14 20:21:06 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 20:21:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fluif on the brake shoes!
Message-ID: <001701c8e621$71372dd0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Pulled the rear drums last week on the '58 only to find the wheel cylinder
had leaked just enough to soak the shoes, but not enough to show from an
exterior inspection (Phil, remember the wheel that was locked up as we
dragged it out of the barn last year?).   These are almost new shoes, albeit
15 years old, and I really don't want to spend the $170 for a new set.  I
have heard everything from soaking them in gas and lighting them on fire to
heating them with a torch to simply buying a can of Brake Clear at the
FLAPS.  
  
What is the collective wisdom of the list on this point?  Are they ruined,
never to be saved?  These are riveted shoes, 10", can someone re-line the
set at a reasonable cost?

Thanks in advance...

Mounting the engine this weekend, body will be ready for its first fitting
in two weeks!  Maybe a shakedown cruise before winter!!

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Mon Jul 14 20:39:27 2008
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 19:39:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fluif on the brake shoes!
References: <001701c8e621$71372dd0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <010e01c8e625$baa60500$8701a8c0@Dell>

We had a club project to bring a long still car back to life and one of the 
problems was saturated brake shoes. We had a set  relined, but the linings 
were too thick to get the drums back on and we didn't want to take the time 
to get them re-arched, so we took the originals and put them in boiling 
water for 20 minutes. Cleaned up just fine. They weren't riveted but don't 
think that would make a difference.
Bob


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 7:21 PM
Subject: [TR] Fluif on the brake shoes!


> Pulled the rear drums last week on the '58 only to find the wheel cylinder
> had leaked just enough to soak the shoes, but not enough to show from an
> exterior inspection (Phil, remember the wheel that was locked up as we
> dragged it out of the barn last year?).   These are almost new shoes, 
> albeit
> 15 years old, and I really don't want to spend the $170 for a new set.  I
> have heard everything from soaking them in gas and lighting them on fire 
> to
> heating them with a torch to simply buying a can of Brake Clear at the
> FLAPS.
>
> What is the collective wisdom of the list on this point?  Are they ruined,
> never to be saved?  These are riveted shoes, 10", can someone re-line the
> set at a reasonable cost?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> Mounting the engine this weekend, body will be ready for its first fitting
> in two weeks!  Maybe a shakedown cruise before winter!!
>
> Bill B
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
> '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 14 22:01:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 21:01:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fluif on the brake shoes!
In-Reply-To: <001701c8e621$71372dd0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <20080715040153.NUUL8951.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> What is the collective wisdom of the list on this point?  Are 
> they ruined, never to be saved?

IMO, the linings are ruined; assuming of course that you want rear brakes
that work properly.  I've tried pretty much all the old remedies at one time
or another, and they do sometimes seem to work; but I've never been able to
get *all* the fluif out of the linings.  As soon as you need them (ie the
brakes get good and hot), there will be some more come out to spoil the
effect.  And premature brake fade is no fun at all ...

>  These are riveted shoes, 
> 10", can someone re-line the set at a reasonable cost?

My local FLAPS only charged about $25+tax to do a set of shoes for me in
standard material; or TSi will do them in 'Kevlar' for about $50+S&H.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 14 22:10:22 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 21:10:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Delrin Replacements to Silent-bloc
In-Reply-To: <bdf.351de430.35ad5af0@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20080715041020.OBKL6967.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> "The TR3 frame flexes considerably and hard mounted 
> components would wear quickly....". This makes sense to me. I 
> had not thought about this.

Perhaps I'm misunderstanding, but it seems to me that the brass/SS
replacements from BFE would fall into that category.  I probably only put
50,000 miles on them, but I didn't see any signs of premature wear.  I do
agree that the TR3 frame flexes considerably (especially the way I drive
<g>), but IMO relatively little of the flex causes the two steering mount
points to move in a way that would increase the strain on the center link
pivots (Silentblocs).  And the flex would have to take up all the clearances
(especially in the idler arm, which is kind of sloppy) before any extra
force would be transmitted to the pivots.

Unfortunately (in regards to the original question), I did a lot of other
things at the same time; so I can't say how much of the improvement was due
to the Silentbloc replacements.  But the improvement was considerable; and I
expect Joe's version to be even better.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Jul 15 06:39:18 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 08:39:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] half-full, half-empty (of brake fluif)
Message-ID: <007c01c8e677$cd14d390$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I'm embarrassed to have to admit my brake system is still not togather yet
...

and since it's SS brake lines from Classic Tubing I think i'm ok?  Even though
I've passed over a gallon of Dot 4 brake fluid thru it and am still trying to
find leaks in the brake lines?  It would seem to me that NO DETERIORATION to
my newly installed SS brake lines is taking place despite my half-full,
half-empty (of brake fluif) situation.  Am I right?

I'm still happy I went with Classic Tubing and their lines are fantastic it's
just that I'm doing a frame-off restoration and am only 75% done.  Also, the
learning curve is quite steep!

Nevermind telling me about Dot 5.  It's too expensive for me!

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3


--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 781 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From cfisher at borgwarner.com  Tue Jul 15 07:00:36 2008
From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 09:00:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Silent block replacement from TRf
In-Reply-To: <4DA41800-8CE5-41B9-AAB4-E3DCFBB52768@sbcglobal.net>
References: <4DA41800-8CE5-41B9-AAB4-E3DCFBB52768@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD012EDEB4@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net>

Mike,
I rebuilt my steering with new reproduction silent block replacement
parts, while also changing tie rod ends etc. and the steering seemed
in-precise and stiff to my taste. I then replaced only the silent blocks
with the delrin parts and it now feels much better on both counts.

Curt Fisher
www.CurtFisherRacing.com

"Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" Steve McQueen
from Le Mans

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+cfisher=borgwarner.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+cfisher=borgwarner.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Denman
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 5:23 PM
To: Triumph
Subject: [TR] Silent block replacement from TRf

Has anyone on the list actually installed the new delrin version
silent block (sold by TRF among others) used on the TR3 front
suspension? Did replacing the stock bonded rubber silent blocks that
have to twist the rubber as the car is steered with the free twisting
delrin silent blocks actual translate into easier steering? In
particular, I would like to hear from members who only made this one
change before testing (I don't want to give credit to the delrin
silent blocks if something else might have been changed at the same
time and might be responsible for the change in steering effort).
Mike Denman
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as cfisher at borgwarner.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jul 15 09:11:48 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 15:11:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fluif on the brake shoes!
Message-ID: <071520081511.15677.487CBE340000B2B600003D3D22155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net>
> Pulled the rear drums last week on the '58 only to find the wheel cylinder
> had leaked just enough to soak the shoes, but not enough to show from an
> exterior inspection (Phil, remember the wheel that was locked up as we
> dragged it out of the barn last year?).   

Oh, yeah.

> buying a can of Brake Clear at the
> FLAPS.  

I have done this in the past, and sometimes it works.  Do it outside of in a fume hood.  That stuff is nasty.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2000 Buick Century Limited (everything I never wanted in a car), 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Tue Jul 15 09:36:34 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 08:36:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] New Tach & Speedo Cables-TR3 - lubrication
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD646D0@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<002701bd0d3e$c081afe0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <001201c8e690$906f6e00$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Over the course of 30 years that I have owned this particular TR3, I have
replaced the inside cables and complete cables several times. When I pulled
the worn inside cables, I noticed the cables had wear spots that indicated it
was rubbing excessively with the outside cable. The last time I replaced the
cables I used LubriPlate grease prior to the installation that was about 8
years ago. Now the cables show the wear signs as I indicated above.

As a compromise, how about using a moly grease with graphite ( i.e.. engine
prelube ) ? Maybe that would extend the life of the inside cables. Just a
thought...see you down the road...Ibsen


  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Joe Curry
  To: Arakelian, Peter ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Saturday, December 20, 1997 4:59 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] New Tach & Speedo Cables-TR3 - lubrication


  Peter,
  That directly contradicts everything that I have ever learned about speedo
  and tach cables.  Wheel bearing grease is way too stiff to keep lower
  temperatures from causing the lubricant to solidify and erratic behavior in
  the instrument. It also attracts dust and other foreign matter that will
  cause drag between che cable and housing.

  On the other hand dry graphite lubricant does not have these attributes and
  is (at least I have been led to believe) is the preferred lubricant.

  Joe C.


  ----- Original Message -----
  From: "Arakelian, Peter" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
  To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 11:31 AM
  Subject: [TR] New Tach & Speedo Cables-TR3 - lubrication


  > Do NOT use dry lubricant.
  > Wheel bearing grease is the preferred lubricant.  Put some into a rag or
  > towel, or better yet into the palm of your hand and draw the inner cable
  > through it.
  >
  > Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6
  > _______________________________________________
  >
  > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  > http://www.vtr.org
  >
  >
  > Triumphs at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
  >
  > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
  >
  > http://www.team.net/archive
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 15 10:32:05 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 09:32:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] New Tach & Speedo Cables-TR3 - lubrication
In-Reply-To: <001201c8e690$906f6e00$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD646D0@kb1.mossmotors.com><002701bd0d3e$c081afe0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
	<001201c8e690$906f6e00$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
Message-ID: <0cd601c8e698$52136780$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> As a compromise, how about using a moly grease with graphite ( i.e..
> engine prelube ) ?

As I understand it, Assembly Lube is a relatively short-lived grease, so
possibly not suitable in situations that call for long-term lubrication.

But I have always used a thin coating of wheel bearing grease with moly; and
have never had a speedo or tach cable fail without some other obvious cause
for the failure.  TS39781LO got a new speedo cable because the old one had
rubbed and abraded through the outer jacket, leading to rusting of the outer
metal housing (but still worked).  And AFAIK is still wearing it's original
tach cable.

Admittedly I don't normally drive my TRs in below freezing temperatures.
But I have done so, and the speedo and tach operation didn't seem any worse
than normal.  Any extra jitter of the needles was more likely due to the
driver shivering!
<G>

Doesn't prove anything, and I'm not saying anything else is wrong.  Just
adding another anecdote to the collection.  YMMV

Randall

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Tue Jul 15 11:04:16 2008
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 10:04:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Locating dowel pins
Message-ID: <335791.45236.qm@web81305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Am in the process of complete motor, trans rebuild, etc and am desirous of
making sure all the "mating" surfaces (front motor plate, cylinder head @
intake/exhaust, bell housing, crank flywheel flange, etc) are true and would
like to remove the various locating dowel pins so the job is properly
accomplished.  Anyone have any suggestions as to how to remove the old pins? 
Am assuming one can purchase drill rod in the right diameter and cut to proper
length for replacements?
Thanks for any input you can provide.
Dan
 Planning &
Development Services
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jul 15 11:12:11 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 13:12:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Locating dowel pins
In-Reply-To: <335791.45236.qm@web81305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <335791.45236.qm@web81305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000201c8e69d$ee1fbb10$210110ac@bobspc>

Hey Dan,
I learned all about locating dowels this winter! Drill rod works or you can
buy the dowels pretty cheap at McMaster. Here's the page I did on them and
the McMaster part # for the tranny dowel is on the page
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/LocatingDowels.htm 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of A Daniel Cronin
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 1:04 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Locating dowel pins

Am in the process of complete motor, trans rebuild, etc and am desirous of
making sure all the "mating" surfaces (front motor plate, cylinder head @
intake/exhaust, bell housing, crank flywheel flange, etc) are true and would
like to remove the various locating dowel pins so the job is properly
accomplished.  Anyone have any suggestions as to how to remove the old pins?

Am assuming one can purchase drill rod in the right diameter and cut to
proper length for replacements?
Thanks for any input you can provide.
Dan
 Planning &
Development Services
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1552 - Release Date: 7/14/2008
6:28 PM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 15 11:57:55 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 10:57:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Locating dowel pins
In-Reply-To: <335791.45236.qm@web81305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <335791.45236.qm@web81305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0cfa01c8e6a4$4f74aa50$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Anyone have any suggestions as to how to remove the old
> pins?

Only the obvious ones of vice grips, etc.  The original pins are usually
soft enough that you can drill and tap them (as a last resort), but if
someone has replaced them with aftermarket pins, they may be too hard for
that.

> Am assuming one can purchase drill rod in the right diameter and cut to
> proper length for replacements?

That will work, although you can also buy ready-made pins.

Randall

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Jul 15 11:59:45 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 13:59:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fluif on the brake shoes!
In-Reply-To: <001701c8e621$71372dd0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
References: <001701c8e621$71372dd0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <487CE591.7020806@bright.net>

wbeech wrote:
> Pulled the rear drums last week on the '58 only to find the wheel cylinder
> had leaked just enough to soak the shoes, but not enough to show from an
> exterior inspection (Phil, remember the wheel that was locked up as we
> dragged it out of the barn last year?).   These are almost new shoes, albeit
> 15 years old, and I really don't want to spend the $170 for a new set.  I
> have heard everything from soaking them in gas and lighting them on fire to
> heating them with a torch to simply buying a can of Brake Clear at the
> FLAPS.  
>   
> What is the collective wisdom of the list on this point?  Are they ruined,
> never to be saved?  These are riveted shoes, 10", can someone re-line the
> set at a reasonable cost?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> Mounting the engine this weekend, body will be ready for its first fitting
> in two weeks!  Maybe a shakedown cruise before winter!!
>
> Bill B
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
> '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1552 - Release Date: 7/14/2008 6:28 PM
>
>
>
>   
We relinewith Kevlar - $60/axle set. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From als6point9 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 15 14:18:18 2008
From: als6point9 at gmail.com (Al Al)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 15:18:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Anyone interested in a GT6
Message-ID: <fc6aeae80807151318m7eae3e1anc787db3db2a6950c@mail.gmail.com>

All

I bought a GT6 last year that has been sitting in a field for some
time. I had intentions of restoring but I have too many cars and this
one is drawing the short straw. Is anyone interested in buying it from
me. It's strictly a parts car unless you are a lunatic like me.

I am in Dallas TX, the car is located in OK and looks like this.
http://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?8,263

Looking for $350, or may part it out in a few months when space allows.

All the best

Al

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Jul 15 20:19:14 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 22:19:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR host hotel
Message-ID: <BAY123-W13EA02DDF4F7BF369919A2BA8F0@phx.gbl>

I am looking for a room at the host hotel in Ypsilanti for Friday night. I
have a room at the back up hotel but I'd rather stay put. If you have a room
and and something comes up and you will be canceling and you would be willing
to have the room switched over to me drop me a line.

Thanks,
Marty Sukey

_________________________________________________________________
Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_
Refresh_messenger_video_072008

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jul 15 23:49:27 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 05:49:27 +0000
Subject: [TR] Anyone interested in a GT6
Message-ID: <071620080549.8010.487D8BE70005038300001F4A22155754749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Al Al" <als6point9 at gmail.com>
> All
> 
> I bought a GT6 last year that has been sitting in a field for some
> time. I had intentions of restoring but I have too many cars and this
> one is drawing the short straw. Is anyone interested in buying it from
> me. It's strictly a parts car unless you are a lunatic like me.
> 
> I am in Dallas TX, the car is located in OK and looks like this.
> http://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?8,263
> 
> Looking for $350, or may part it out in a few months when space allows.
> 
> All the best

There is a lunatic in Oklahoma...

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Jul 16 06:23:59 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 13:23:59 +0100
Subject: [TR] Anyone interested in a GT6
References: <071620080549.8010.487D8BE70005038300001F4A22155754749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00fe01c8e73e$d36e02d0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

>> I am in Dallas TX, the car is located in OK and looks like this.
>> http://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?8,263
>>
>> Looking for $350, or may part it out in a few months when space allows.

I 'resemble' the implication of being a lunatic! My GT6 looked just like that when I finally got to 
finish paying for it! Standard-Triumph salaries were never erred towards the generous side of being 
ultra-economic.

Jonmac 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Jul 16 08:08:26 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 10:08:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anyone interested in a GT6
In-Reply-To: <00fe01c8e73e$d36e02d0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <487DC89A.30976.CDF5FA9@localhost>

On 16 Jul 2008 at 13:23, John Macartney wrote:

> generous side of being ultra-economic.

I can't figure out wheher this is oxymoronic or merely ambiguous!

("And I like less than half of you half as much as you deserve.")

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From aribert.neumann at edag-us.com  Wed Jul 16 09:12:52 2008
From: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com (Aribert Neumann)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 11:12:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR - NATC question
Message-ID: <OF0E5CF766.C2B6B261-ON85257488.0050394E-85257488.0053C58F@edag.de>

Can a person show up at VTR - NATC and just peruse the vendor area without
joining either VTR or paying the NATC event fee?

I live in the Metro Detroit area but I am not a member of either VTR or the
local Triumph club (DTSC).  With this year's NATC (VTR) in Ypsilanti, it is
within 1.25 hr drive for me.  Unfortunately, vacation time is at a premium
and I am seriously questioning joining VTR and paying the additional $95
for the four day NATC event when at the most I would spend 2 afternoons
there.  BTW, I was a member of DTSC for a year, about 12 years ago but I
found that I would rather use my limited personal time out in the garage
rather than at a social occasion (I am not much of a social animal, my wife
does not care one bit about the "car culture"  (I don't think that she has
ridden in my Triumph in the past half decade) & I am not into the social
aspect of adult beverages).

While I indent to drive my Triumph to the event, the clutch is slipping a
bit and I am trying to baby the clutch thru the rest of the driving season
(I intend to refresh the trans when it is out for the clutch R&R and I do
not have time for rebuilding the trans until winter) - consequently I would
not be participating in any driving events such as autocross.   One of the
primary reasons for going to NATC would be to check out the vendors - so
would I be out of line showing up, perusing the vendor area, look at a few
cars and heading back home?  TIA, off in digest mode awaiting your
responses.

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Jul 16 10:30:03 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 12:30:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR - NATC question
In-Reply-To: <OF0E5CF766.C2B6B261-ON85257488.0050394E-85257488.0053C58F@edag.de>
References: <OF0E5CF766.C2B6B261-ON85257488.0050394E-85257488.0053C58F@edag.de>
Message-ID: <8CAB578559F9852-958-DF@webmail-md03.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Aribert Neumann <aribert.neumann at edag-us.com>

Can a person show up at VTR - NATC and just peruse the vendor area 
without
joining either VTR or paying the NATC event fee?

==AM==
It should not be a problem; never has been in the past, AFAIK!

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Jul 16 11:45:51 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 13:45:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR - NATC question
In-Reply-To: <OF0E5CF766.C2B6B261-ON85257488.0050394E-85257488.0053C58F@edag.de>
References: <OF0E5CF766.C2B6B261-ON85257488.0050394E-85257488.0053C58F@edag.de>
Message-ID: <000d01c8e76b$cba82350$210110ac@bobspc>

At the VTR's that I've attended the vendors are usually set up in a large
conference room in the host hotel so anyone can enter and peruse the goods.
I don't think there were any more then 6 or 8 at last year's event.  


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Aribert Neumann
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:13 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] VTR - NATC question

Can a person show up at VTR - NATC and just peruse the vendor area without
joining either VTR or paying the NATC event fee?

I live in the Metro Detroit area but I am not a member of either VTR or the
local Triumph club (DTSC).  With this year's NATC (VTR) in Ypsilanti, it is
within 1.25 hr drive for me.  Unfortunately, vacation time is at a premium
and I am seriously questioning joining VTR and paying the additional $95 for
the four day NATC event when at the most I would spend 2 afternoons there.
BTW, I was a member of DTSC for a year, about 12 years ago but I found that
I would rather use my limited personal time out in the garage rather than at
a social occasion (I am not much of a social animal, my wife does not care
one bit about the "car culture"  (I don't think that she has ridden in my
Triumph in the past half decade) & I am not into the social aspect of adult
beverages).

While I indent to drive my Triumph to the event, the clutch is slipping a
bit and I am trying to baby the clutch thru the rest of the driving season
(I intend to refresh the trans when it is out for the clutch R&R and I do
not have time for rebuilding the trans until winter) - consequently I would
not be participating in any driving events such as autocross.   One of the
primary reasons for going to NATC would be to check out the vendors - so
would I be out of line showing up, perusing the vendor area, look at a few
cars and heading back home?  TIA, off in digest mode awaiting your
responses.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.11/1554 - Release Date: 7/15/2008
6:03 PM

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Jul 16 12:21:38 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 14:21:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] 2009 TRA National
Message-ID: <ca1.37a2d71a.35af9632@aol.com>

List,
 
One of our club guys mentioned last night that he thought he heard that the  
TRA 2009 National is going to be held in Harpers Ferry, WV.....there's no  
mention in TRA's website....can anyone confirm?
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U



**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music 
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!      
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 16 12:43:57 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 14:43:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] 2009 TRA National
In-Reply-To: <ca1.37a2d71a.35af9632@aol.com>
References: <ca1.37a2d71a.35af9632@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W381A9552A522A0C5944AD6A58F0@phx.gbl>

> List,> > One of our club guys mentioned last night that he thought he heard
that the > TRA 2009 National is going to be held in Harpers Ferry,
WV.....there's no > mention in TRA's website....can anyone confirm?> > Chip
Krout

Chip:

Not in Harpers Ferry, but nearby in Charles Town, West Virginia. Specifically,
at The Inn at Charles Town.

My local TRA chapter, Mason-Dixon, is the host and I am helping with the
planning. It's not all decided yet, but I'll answer questions if I can.

John Herrera

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Jul 16 17:17:30 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 00:17:30 +0100
Subject: [TR] Jonmac's proposed trip to Watkins Glen - Sept 2008
Message-ID: <018c01c8e79a$1f8e52e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Listers,

Sorry to enter the fray with an essentially travel-related query - but it does have a strong Triumph 
flavour.

Subject to health issues at home affecting close relatives, I'm planning on making it to Watkins 
Glen in early September this year for "the Big Bash.". I did put out a request to the FoT list and 
while I got a few replies, they weren't enough to enable me to make specific decisions. So, my 
thoughts are as follows:

1. It looks like New York is the nearest international airport for inbound flights from the UK, with 
JFK being the most popular airport. Does anyone know of an *international* airport closer to the 
Glen?
2. Is anyone in the New York area going to the Glen with whom I could beg a ride from NY? I'm more 
than happy to make meaningful contributions to fuel and meet all my subsistence costs.
3. Failing 2 above, I have plenty of experience of 'driving on the wrong side of the road' (i.e. in 
LH steer cars) and will rent a car. Any suggestions on airport car rental organisations who don't 
build the NATO defence budget into their rates? I'd be happy with something small like a VW 
Golf/Rabbit (diesel preferred) and I might even *lower* myself to taking the wheel of a Ford.

Thoughts ladies and gentlemen? An enquiring mind wishes to know :)

Jonmac


Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Jul 16 17:49:04 2008
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 16:49:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] removing rust in block
Message-ID: <abc1aef30807161649n3b5fdec5s4f1078236e22c229@mail.gmail.com>

I have a partially dismantled spare Stag block. Both heads are off.  It
appears from the vast amount of rust in the water channels, the previous
owner had not heard of anti freeze.
Anyway, what's the best way to remove the rust?  The engine is currently
on a stand.

Thanks, Sujit

From cwn74 at aol.com  Wed Jul 16 18:18:36 2008
From: cwn74 at aol.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 20:18:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Jonmac's proposed trip to Watkins Glen - Sept 2008
In-Reply-To: <018c01c8e79a$1f8e52e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <018c01c8e79a$1f8e52e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <005a01c8e7a2$a85af2b0$1342a8c0@semperon3400>

Hi John!

When do you want to arrive/depart?
My MGTD driver and car will leave Lake Ronkonkoma, Long Island, on Wednesday
Sept 3 and return Sunday afternoon.

I leave western Massachusetts same schedule, close to Albany NY airport on
the way.

Another possibility is:
Henry Frye lives near Bradley IAP, Hartford CT... 

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
'72 Stag '74 Spitfire
"Reality... It's not what you think."

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+cwn74=aol.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+cwn74=aol.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Macartney
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 7:18 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; 6-Pack
Subject: [Spits] Jonmac's proposed trip to Watkins Glen - Sept 2008

Listers,

Sorry to enter the fray with an essentially travel-related query - but it
does have a strong Triumph flavour.

Subject to health issues at home affecting close relatives, I'm planning on
making it to Watkins Glen in early September this year for "the Big Bash.".
I did put out a request to the FoT list and while I got a few replies, they
weren't enough to enable me to make specific decisions. So, my thoughts are
as follows:

1. It looks like New York is the nearest international airport for inbound
flights from the UK, with JFK being the most popular airport. Does anyone
know of an *international* airport closer to the Glen?
2. Is anyone in the New York area going to the Glen with whom I could beg a
ride from NY? I'm more than happy to make meaningful contributions to fuel
and meet all my subsistence costs.
3. Failing 2 above, I have plenty of experience of 'driving on the wrong
side of the road' (i.e. in LH steer cars) and will rent a car. Any
suggestions on airport car rental organisations who don't build the NATO
defence budget into their rates? I'd be happy with something small like a VW
Golf/Rabbit (diesel preferred) and I might even *lower* myself to taking the
wheel of a Ford.

Thoughts ladies and gentlemen? An enquiring mind wishes to know :)

Jonmac


Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.11/1554 - Release Date: 7/15/2008
6:03 PM

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Jul 16 18:26:47 2008
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 20:26:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR - NATC question
References: <OF0E5CF766.C2B6B261-ON85257488.0050394E-85257488.0053C58F@edag.de>
Message-ID: <00e701c8e7a3$ccb48fd0$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5>

Aribert,

I have mentioned this on more than one occasion via this list. If you own 
and enjoy a Triumph and you can only join one club you should be a member of 
VTR.

VTR and the other Triumph oriented clubs have enabled us to enjoy our cars 
by bringing us together and promoting our common interest. VTR in part 
supports this list that we enjoy. VTR in partnership with the big 3 parts 
suppliers have assisted all of us by making parts available such that we can 
keep our cars on the road and enjoy driving them. VTR has enabled many 
owners to repair their cars via the collection of technical information and 
has been a collection point for many modern enhancements tips.

There are many personalities within VTR. Some are very outgoing and others 
are laid back. The common thread is our enjoyment of Triumphs. $30.00 per 
year is a small price to pay for what we get in return. Why take advantage 
of something without contributing to it?

Jerry Van Vlack
VTR #691






----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aribert Neumann" <aribert.neumann at edag-us.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:12 AM
Subject: [TR] VTR - NATC question


> Can a person show up at VTR - NATC and just peruse the vendor area without
> joining either VTR or paying the NATC event fee?
>
> I live in the Metro Detroit area but I am not a member of either VTR or 
> the
> local Triumph club (DTSC).  With this year's NATC (VTR) in Ypsilanti, it 
> is
> within 1.25 hr drive for me.  Unfortunately, vacation time is at a premium
> and I am seriously questioning joining VTR and paying the additional $95
> for the four day NATC event when at the most I would spend 2 afternoons
> there.  BTW, I was a member of DTSC for a year, about 12 years ago but I
> found that I would rather use my limited personal time out in the garage
> rather than at a social occasion (I am not much of a social animal, my 
> wife
> does not care one bit about the "car culture"  (I don't think that she has
> ridden in my Triumph in the past half decade) & I am not into the social
> aspect of adult beverages).
>
> While I indent to drive my Triumph to the event, the clutch is slipping a
> bit and I am trying to baby the clutch thru the rest of the driving season
> (I intend to refresh the trans when it is out for the clutch R&R and I do
> not have time for rebuilding the trans until winter) - consequently I 
> would
> not be participating in any driving events such as autocross.   One of the
> primary reasons for going to NATC would be to check out the vendors - so
> would I be out of line showing up, perusing the vendor area, look at a few
> cars and heading back home?  TIA, off in digest mode awaiting your
> responses.

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Jul 16 18:51:06 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 00:51:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] removing rust in block
Message-ID: <071720080051.24688.487E977A000D0C830000607022165384969C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Sujit, 

If you have the block partially dismantled and on an engine stand, and it's in that kind of condition, I highly recommend completing the job.  Take it all the way down, then drive it to a reputable machine shop for cleaning.  Have them check for cracks, and have them check to see if the head surface needs decking.  

Do it right the first time and enjoy it trouble free for years.  ...Well, unless one enjoys occasionaly pauses from the vicissitudes of life alongside the highway of happiness, ehr...with your cell phone out to call AAA.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "sujit roy" <triumphstag at gmail.com> 

> I have a partially dismantled spare Stag block. Both heads are off. It 
> appears from the vast amount of rust in the water channels, the previous 
> owner had not heard of anti freeze. 
> Anyway, what's the best way to remove the rust? The engine is currently 
> on a stand. 
> 
> Thanks, Sujit 

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed Jul 16 19:10:46 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 21:10:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A transmission locating dowels
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPOEIPFAAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

List,
OK someone asked about transmission locating dowels for TR6's, does anyone
know what I should use for my TR4A?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/tr4a

getting back to it finally

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Wed Jul 16 19:33:27 2008
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake Discher)
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 21:33:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR - NATC question
In-Reply-To: <OF0E5CF766.C2B6B261-ON85257488.0050394E-85257488.0053C58F@edag.de>
References: <OF0E5CF766.C2B6B261-ON85257488.0050394E-85257488.0053C58F@edag.de>
Message-ID: <D60BF337-4507-4AB9-938B-12B8E3031F90@blakedischer.com>

Hi Aribert,

By all means come on out, you're certainly welcome to peruse the  
vendors set up in the hotel and walk the car show on Friday at  
Riverside Park.  Two vendors, The Roadster Factory http://the-roadster-factory.com/) 
  and Little British Car Company (www.lbcarco.com) will be vending at  
the show.

Without registering you just won't be able to participate in the  
driving events, driving tours and tech sessions, auction, or the 48- 
hour Spitfire rebuild sponsored by the North America Spitfire Squadron  
(NASS).  You can watch the autocross for free if you like, you need  
only sign a waiver and get a wristband to enter the site of the  
autocross.

It's adding up to be a great show, full info at www.natc2008.com.
________________________
Blake J. Discher, President
Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org
1363 East Fisher Freeway, Suite 8, Detroit, MI 48207 | Phone  
313.259.4460





On Jul 16, 2008, at 11:12 AM, Aribert Neumann wrote:
>  One of the
> primary reasons for going to NATC would be to check out the vendors  
> - so
> would I be out of line showing up, perusing the vendor area, look at  
> a few
> cars and heading back home?

From wquincy at cox.net  Wed Jul 16 23:37:24 2008
From: wquincy at cox.net (William Quincy)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 00:37:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing Brake Squeal
Message-ID: <AA49E236-AB0F-41A0-89AB-8D494C7DDF4A@cox.net>

Greetings Listers,

Ive been experiencing a loud squeal from my front brakes.  I know
its the front brakes because I can come to a stop using the hand
brake only, no noise. It takes a while to start maybe 20 minutes in
stoplight to stoplight traffic, maybe 40 minutes in drives in the
country. Would this be heat related?  I have a header on this car.
The brake function seems to be completely unaffected.
Red faced in Kansas

Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul 17 07:05:52 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 09:05:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing Brake Squeal
Message-ID: <cf0.3b030a81.35b09db0@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/17/2008 12:37:48 AM Central Daylight Time, 
wquincy at cox.net writes: 
> Ive been experiencing a loud squeal from my front brakes.  I know
> its the front brakes because I can come to a stop using the hand
> brake only, no noise. It takes a while to start maybe 20 minutes in
> stoplight to stoplight traffic, maybe 40 minutes in drives in the
> country. Would this be heat related?  I have a header on this car.
> The brake function seems to be completely unaffected.
> 
Bill, this is not uncommon.  In fact, most domestic cars have anti-squeel 
shims to prevent this.  You can get shims for your car from Victoria-British and 
install them and they may fix your problem.  

Also, you can buy an ointment to address this problem.  (Sounds like snake 
oil, doesn't it?)  I think it works by dampening out the vibration.  You apply 
it to the back side of the pad where it contacts the piston.

I recommend a combination of these two.


Dave Massey
57 TR3
71 TR6
80 TR8
Member: VTR, TWOA, SLTOA, 6Pack   

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Thu Jul 17 08:11:38 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 10:11:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] ARE Products
Message-ID: <c0c.3d44fe44.35b0ad1a@cs.com>

triumphs at autox.team.net  is the big Triumphs List    Charles & Dave can fill 
you in on this, if you are unaware.  It is a good way of monitoring what your 
customers are thinking about. I use the digest version so I dont get flooded 
with email.

 ARE is quite popular on this list.....so far.

> Joe-
> Uncle Jack mentioned that he was unhappy with his urethane mounts the last 
> time I talked to him.  He admitted that he had bought them from Moss, but I 
> think we all use the same supplier so he would have gotten the same product 
> from us more than likely.  
> I will talk to Charles about featuring the Delrin kits.  We are doing a 
> little catalogue to mail to the customers in the next couple weeks and I am sure 
> they would make a good addition.
> Incidentally, what is "the big Triumph List" to which you refer?   
> thanks 
> Albert
> 

   </HTML>

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 17 08:48:14 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 14:48:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] New Tach & Speedo Cables-TR3 - lubrication
In-Reply-To: <0cd601c8e698$52136780$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD646D0@kb1.mossmotors.com><002701bd0d3e$c081afe0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
	<001201c8e690$906f6e00$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> 
	<0cd601c8e698$52136780$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W2229294B5F73DD8D80F086E58E0@phx.gbl>

I bought a tube of cable lube at my LFAPS that is graphite based.  I think it
is made by Locktite.  I actually inject the lube into cable housings using an
old syringe and needle.  It works well.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 09:32:05 -0700
> Subject: Re: [TR] New Tach & Speedo Cables-TR3 - lubrication
>
> > As a compromise, how about using a moly grease with graphite ( i.e..
> > engine prelube ) ?
>
> As I understand it, Assembly Lube is a relatively short-lived grease, so
> possibly not suitable in situations that call for long-term lubrication.
>
> But I have always used a thin coating of wheel bearing grease with moly;
and
> have never had a speedo or tach cable fail without some other obvious cause
> for the failure.  TS39781LO got a new speedo cable because the old one had
> rubbed and abraded through the outer jacket, leading to rusting of the
outer
> metal housing (but still worked).  And AFAIK is still wearing it's original
> tach cable.
>
> Admittedly I don't normally drive my TRs in below freezing temperatures.
> But I have done so, and the speedo and tach operation didn't seem any worse
> than normal.  Any extra jitter of the needles was more likely due to the
> driver shivering!
> <G>
>
> Doesn't prove anything, and I'm not saying anything else is wrong.  Just
> adding another anecdote to the collection.  YMMV
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Time for vacation? WIN what you need- enter now!
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergiveaway/?ocid=tag_jlyhm

From maya2blue at juno.com  Thu Jul 17 08:50:16 2008
From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 09:50:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire
Message-ID: <20080717.095016.5052.0.maya2blue@juno.com>

Greetings....

I have a very noisy alternator in my 1978 Spitfire. Almost a "klanging"
sort of noise!  The "noise" seems to increase as RPM's increase.

Heard the noise and have isolated it (by hand and ear) to the alternator.

The belt is adjusted properly.

All bolts are tight.

Any ideas?

Many tks all suggestions!

Harve


Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Free quote and debt consolidation information.  Click Here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2XiVnsJnFMILb4TYNxYxltyhcpArBss1pO37088zaoFHGR/

From maya2blue at juno.com  Thu Jul 17 09:03:48 2008
From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 10:03:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] flotec "sandwich" oil cooler adapter
Message-ID: <20080717.100348.5052.4.maya2blue@juno.com>

Greetings...

I have a new unused (in a sealed package) Flotec adaper to be used to
attach an oil cooler to a 62-80 Spitfire. 

See VB p. 68, item 17-22 What I have is everything shown, except the
hoses.

I do not have the hoses or the cooler.

Somewhere, someone wants this for $20 plus s/h before it hits eBay this
weekend.

Tks all

Harve


Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Click for online loan, fast & no lender fee, approval today
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3WLVbI1C2kEwNjLWjFNGiXq9PisZCBzZBLVIICtOZt80YJ/

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Jul 17 09:08:19 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 08:08:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire
References: <20080717.095016.5052.0.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <001701c8e81e$f3140ea0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

My suggestionis to do the Bosche conversion.  It is both electronically and
mechanically a direct swap.  The only thing that might be different is a
different size belt.

It is for a 78-80 Ford Fiesta.

Not only will it cure the noise but it will generate a full 55 amps to power
any sort of accessories that you choose to install.

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <maya2blue at juno.com>
To: <nass at yahoogroups.com>; <NASS-club at yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfires at autox.team.net>; <SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>;
<Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire


> Greetings....
>
> I have a very noisy alternator in my 1978 Spitfire. Almost a "klanging"
> sort of noise!  The "noise" seems to increase as RPM's increase.
>
> Heard the noise and have isolated it (by hand and ear) to the alternator.
>
> The belt is adjusted properly.
>
> All bolts are tight.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Many tks all suggestions!
>
> Harve
>
>
> Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
> 531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
> Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
> 72701 USA
> 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
> ____________________________________________________________
> Free quote and debt consolidation information.  Click Here.
>
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2XiVnsJnFMILb4TYNxYxltyhcpArBss1pO37088zaoFHGR/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 17 10:06:39 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 09:06:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire
In-Reply-To: <20080717.095016.5052.0.maya2blue@juno.com>
References: <20080717.095016.5052.0.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <34EA5DD7B0E44512A2C03D72F5BF0D50@jdnet.deere.com>

> I have a very noisy alternator in my 1978 Spitfire. Almost a "klanging"
> sort of noise!  The "noise" seems to increase as RPM's increase.

I'd look for the fan being loose on the shaft; then for a fan blade fouling
on a bolt or the case.  It might be something inside the alternator, but
that usually is more of a grinding noise than a clang.

The fan fouling might be a symptom of bearings that are starting to fail and
have allowed the shaft to move.  Or it might have simply gotten bent
somehow.

BTW, the 78-80 Ford Fiesta came with two different alternators.  Be sure you
get the Bosch one (found on cars with AC or heavy duty electrical), as the
Motorcraft ones take different mounts and connector.  But I agree with Joe,
the Bosch unit is much better than the stock Lucas, and likely less
expensive to boot.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 17 10:11:35 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 09:11:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing Brake Squeal
In-Reply-To: <cf0.3b030a81.35b09db0@cs.com>
References: <cf0.3b030a81.35b09db0@cs.com>
Message-ID: <86A61F8D71D24AB99C0EF3731BC5AD7A@jdnet.deere.com>

> Also, you can buy an ointment to address this problem.  (Sounds like snake
> oil, doesn't it?)  I think it works by dampening out the vibration.  You
> apply
> it to the back side of the pad where it contacts the piston.

There are several kinds of "snake oil"; including some that applies to the
face of the pads and rotor, rather than to the back of the pads.  Don't mix
them up!

I've also had good luck with the aluminum "cut to fit" shims on my TR3
(which didn't originally have shims); when the snake oil and new anti-squeal
springs didn't help.

Randall

From wquincy at cox.net  Thu Jul 17 12:13:44 2008
From: wquincy at cox.net (William Quincy)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 13:13:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing Brake Squeal
Message-ID: <800CF2AB-F7AD-4DFF-9883-982E3FB9B892@cox.net>

I've added the aluminum adhesive backed pads that Moss sells but they  
didn't make any difference.

Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Thu Jul 17 13:08:26 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 12:08:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 window winder mechanism
Message-ID: <698973.88355.qm@web30908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The big spring that works the window winder in my TR6 has come un-sprung and jumped out of place.  I've been told not to even bother trying to put it back in because it'll just pop out again.  

True?  And do I have to buy the whole window winder mechanism as the solution?

Thanks,

Joe Merone
Going to the ATA show in Saratoga NY this Saturday
CF18928 

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Jul 17 13:55:19 2008
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 12:55:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] removing rust in block
In-Reply-To: <071720080051.24688.487E977A000D0C830000607022165384969C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <071720080051.24688.487E977A000D0C830000607022165384969C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <abc1aef30807171255s14c648c2h5d824483849a2a58@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Terry
I'm assuming by you saying take it all the way down, you mean take the crank
and pistons out.  Is there an alternative way?

Thanks, Sujit

On Wed, Jul 16, 2008 at 5:51 PM, <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

>
> Sujit,
>
> If you have the block partially dismantled and on an engine stand, and it's
> in that kind of condition, I highly recommend completing the job.  Take it
> all the way down, then drive it to a reputable machine shop for cleaning.
> Have them check for cracks, and have them check to see if the head surface
> needs decking.
>
> Do it right the first time and enjoy it trouble free for years.  ...Well,
> unless one enjoys occasionaly pauses from the vicissitudes of life alongside
> the highway of happiness, ehr...with your cell phone out to call AAA.
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "sujit roy" <triumphstag at gmail.com>
>
> > I have a partially dismantled spare Stag block. Both heads are off. It
> > appears from the vast amount of rust in the water channels, the previous
> > owner had not heard of anti freeze.
> > Anyway, what's the best way to remove the rust? The engine is currently
> > on a stand.
> >
> > Thanks, Sujit

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 17 14:38:10 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 13:38:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] removing rust in block
In-Reply-To: <abc1aef30807171255s14c648c2h5d824483849a2a58@mail.gmail.com>
References: <071720080051.24688.487E977A000D0C830000607022165384969C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
	<abc1aef30807171255s14c648c2h5d824483849a2a58@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3CA074BF032E4AD99598429F64194C4F@jdnet.deere.com>

> I'm assuming by you saying take it all the way down, you mean take the
> crank
> and pistons out.  Is there an alternative way?

Not if you're going to have a shop "boil it out", which I assume is what
Terry is talking about.  Not just the crank & pistons, but EVERYTHING that
isn't part of the block casting must come off.  That includes jackshaft,
water pump, various plugs, rear seal housing, oil pump, oil transfer
housing, etc. etc.  The process involves dipping the bare block into a vat
of heated chemical, which may become trapped in any joints that remain (not
to mention destroying any alloys).

Personally, I don't feel that is necessary.  I've always just mechanically
cleaned and flushed as best I could and let it go at that.  The main thing
is to be sure there is no pile of sediment in the back of the block.  But if
there is, you should be able to loosen it with probes stuck down through the
coolant passages, and blow it out with compressed air or water under
pressure.  I'd still plan on having the crank & pistons out, though, to be
sure none of the expelled crud finds it's way somewhere it shouldn't be.

Randall

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jul 17 17:39:06 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 23:39:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] removing rust in block
Message-ID: <071720082339.5249.487FD81A000C938D0000148122165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Randall is, of course, right.  You can get away with a short cut.

I would (stubbornly) <G>  argue here that if you have the engine out, the engine on a stand, and the head off, you're a long way into a major overhaul.  If you have rust as severe as you describe, I also wonder about the condition of the rings and bearings.  These are not expensive.  Why not replace them while you have the engine out, and take the crank in to be checked and the block in to be boiled? Given the amount of work that got you to this point, and the downtime it takes to get there, this may not constitute shipwright's disease as much as prudent prevention.  

Then again, if you don't mind removing the apron, pulling the engine, and doing all this again anytime soon, no problem.  Otherwise, why gamble?

O man, I HATE to have a different opinion than Randall!

:o)

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> 

> > I'm assuming by you saying take it all the way down, you mean take the 
> > crank 
> > and pistons out. Is there an alternative way? 
> 
> Not if you're going to have a shop "boil it out", which I assume is what 
> Terry is talking about. Not just the crank & pistons, but EVERYTHING that 
> isn't part of the block casting must come off. That includes jackshaft, 
> water pump, various plugs, rear seal housing, oil pump, oil transfer 
> housing, etc. etc. The process involves dipping the bare block into a vat 
> of heated chemical, which may become trapped in any joints that remain (not 
> to mention destroying any alloys). 
> 
> Personally, I don't feel that is necessary. I've always just mechanically 
> cleaned and flushed as best I could and let it go at that. The main thing 
> is to be sure there is no pile of sediment in the back of the block. But if 
> there is, you should be able to loosen it with probes stuck down through the 
> coolant passages, and blow it out with compressed air or water under 
> pressure. I'd still plan on having the crank & pistons out, though, to be 
> sure none of the expelled crud finds it's way somewhere it shouldn't be. 
> 
> Randall 
> _______________________________________________ 
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org 
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 
> 
> You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From maya2blue at juno.com  Thu Jul 17 17:43:44 2008
From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 18:43:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] flotec adapter
Message-ID: <20080717.184344.5416.2.maya2blue@juno.com>

The flotec adapter has been taken. 

Tks to the seven of you who responded offered to buy it!

Harve

Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Learn to trade futures online and make extra money. Click here to learn more!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mJsNmarWb4VYubTaSmOUH6sVCfK6XSM3RlGvwICM7WtwdLL/

From L1J1S at aol.com  Thu Jul 17 17:48:30 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 19:48:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
Message-ID: <d4f.3111e2ce.35b1344e@aol.com>

to the list, i want to take a poll among tr3, tr3-a, tr3b owners. i want you 
to mention the single best improvement one can make on their tr3's. if you 
like to add more then one improvement in your choice you may do so. larry 
schwartz 1960 tr3-a



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Jul 17 17:51:37 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 16:51:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits] flotec adapter
In-Reply-To: <20080717.184344.5416.2.maya2blue@juno.com>
References: <20080717.184344.5416.2.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <000001c8e868$0d4556f0$0202a8c0@newcomputer>

If anyone needs another one, I have one myself that is collecting dust.  I
broke the heat exchanger and put it away thinking I might need it and now it
is obvious that I do not.  

If you are interested, make an offer.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
maya2blue at juno.com
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:44 PM
To: nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com;
spitfires at autox.team.net; SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com;
spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] flotec adapter

The flotec adapter has been taken. 

Tks to the seven of you who responded offered to buy it!

Harve

Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Learn to trade futures online and make extra money. Click here to learn
more!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mJsM8jqVSawtY8LE97elwS1rK
OrTTj5lswdLVXGlqOJg8mE/
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 17 18:10:21 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 17:10:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] removing rust in block
In-Reply-To: <071720082339.5249.487FD81A000C938D0000148122165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <071720082339.5249.487FD81A000C938D0000148122165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1DCDE6FBE7DC42449191149FD7ABD9CF@jdnet.deere.com>

> O man, I HATE to have a different opinion than Randall!

No problemo, Terry!

You're right of course; it certainly wouldn't hurt anything but his
pocketbook to have it boiled out.

But I'm assuming (there's that word again) that Sujit was just wanting to
drop this used engine in to replace the trashed one he took out; not
undertake a full rebuild.  I know that's what I would be hoping to do.

Obviously it's his choice to make, I was just presenting an opposing
opinion.

Randall

From dlachance at hemmings.com  Thu Jul 17 18:28:53 2008
From: dlachance at hemmings.com (David LaChance)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 20:28:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire
References: <20080717.095016.5052.0.maya2blue@juno.com>
	<001701c8e81e$f3140ea0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <03F9EBBBEEE1224F813E61CDA169C0360A6A9C@ENTXCHBE01A.amcity.com>

Harve, I had this noise in my Spitfire -- it was the composite fan/pulley,
rubbing against the alternator housing. If you have one of these composite
pulleys, check the back of the alternator fan blades to see if they've been
ground down at all. Mine had become off-kilter because it had cracked; shortly
after I discovered the problem, it self-destructed in spectacular fashion,
depriving me of not only an alternator, but a coolant pump too. The cure was a
new alternator with a metal fan/pulley assembly.

Dave LaChance

________________________________

From: spitfires-bounces+dlachance=hemmings.com at autox.team.net on behalf of Joe
Curry
Sent: Thu 7/17/2008 11:08 AM
To: nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com; spitfires at autox.team.net;
SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com; spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com;
Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; triumphs at autox.team.net;
maya2blue at juno.com
Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire



My suggestionis to do the Bosche conversion.  It is both electronically and
mechanically a direct swap.  The only thing that might be different is a
different size belt.

It is for a 78-80 Ford Fiesta.

Not only will it cure the noise but it will generate a full 55 amps to power
any sort of accessories that you choose to install.

Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: <maya2blue at juno.com>
To: <nass at yahoogroups.com>; <NASS-club at yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfires at autox.team.net>; <SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>;
<Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire


> Greetings....
>
> I have a very noisy alternator in my 1978 Spitfire. Almost a "klanging"
> sort of noise!  The "noise" seems to increase as RPM's increase.
>
> Heard the noise and have isolated it (by hand and ear) to the alternator.
>
> The belt is adjusted properly.
>
> All bolts are tight.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Many tks all suggestions!
>
> Harve
>
>
> Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
> 531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
> Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
> 72701 USA
> 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
> ____________________________________________________________
> Free quote and debt consolidation information.  Click Here.
>
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2XiVnsJnFMILb4TYNxYxltyhc
pArBss1pO37088zaoFHGR/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org <http://www.vtr.org/>
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From jmitch at snet.net  Thu Jul 17 19:18:43 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 21:18:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Missing parts of an Angle Drive
Message-ID: <487FEF73.4060704@snet.net>

    On a long drive last weekend, my speedometer suddenly stopped 
working, so I figured a cable had broken.  Tonight I checked and both 
cables(1976 model) are fine.  So I then figured the cable inside the 
angle drive had snapped.  When I pulled it off tonight, all that was 
left was the housing.  The internal parts were missing.  Is the inner 
mechanism pressed into the housing or does the set screw hold things 
together?  I had always thought the set screw just held the part 
attached to the cable from changing angle.  Does that screw need to be 
snugged after installation?  Thanks for any insights.   John Mitchell  
76 TR6

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Thu Jul 17 19:56:33 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 21:56:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
Message-ID: <c33.32799789.35b15251@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/17/2008 7:48:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
L1J1S at aol.com writes:

to the  list, i want to take a poll among tr3, tr3-a, tr3b owners. i want you 
to  mention the single best improvement one can make on their tr3's. if you  
like to add more then one improvement in your choice you may do so. larry  
schwartz 1960 tr3-a



==AM==
Maybe it seems too obvious, but probably radial tires (as opposed to the  
usual OE bias-plies)!  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Jul 17 20:13:32 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 22:13:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
References: <c33.32799789.35b15251@aol.com>
Message-ID: <014e01c8e87b$e0fe1af0$b7307247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Overdrive !!!!!! # 2 larger piston/liners  # 3 mild street cam   # 4 no 
women allowed  (wife's order's )  "FT"
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ZoboHerald at aol.com>
To: <L1J1S at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 best improvement


> In a message dated 7/17/2008 7:48:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> L1J1S at aol.com writes:
>
> to the  list, i want to take a poll among tr3, tr3-a, tr3b owners. i want 
> you
> to  mention the single best improvement one can make on their tr3's. if 
> you
> like to add more then one improvement in your choice you may do so. larry
> schwartz 1960 tr3-a
>
>
>
> ==AM==
> Maybe it seems too obvious, but probably radial tires (as opposed to the
> usual OE bias-plies)!
>
> --Andy   Mace
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er,
> Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)
>
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
> Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_
> (http://triumph-herald.us/)
>
>
>
>
> **************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for
> FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
> (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Thu Jul 17 22:05:14 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 21:05:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <c33.32799789.35b15251@aol.com>
References: <c33.32799789.35b15251@aol.com>
Message-ID: <51E93D5E-8ECB-4C5B-AEE8-B5726DF55126@cox.net>

I would say it was clearly the Dan Masters electrical rewiring kit!!

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Jul 17 22:57:34 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 21:57:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire
In-Reply-To: <9143FF2A3DEF481CBC892155D7F2EC89@shack2>
References: <20080717.095016.5052.0.maya2blue@juno.com>
	<001701c8e81e$f3140ea0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
	<9143FF2A3DEF481CBC892155D7F2EC89@shack2>
Message-ID: <001401c8e892$cb0c7680$0202a8c0@newcomputer>

I suppose you are correct, but since mine is on a Mk1 using that very large
wire that previously powered the generator, it was not necessary.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Gingerich [mailto:bill at gingerich.us] 
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 9:53 PM
To: 'Joe Curry'; nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com;
spitfires at autox.team.net; SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com;
spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net; maya2blue at juno.com
Subject: RE: [Spits] [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire

It's also a good idea to run a larger "charge" wire from alternator to
solenoid to handle the higher output current.

BillG
Newalla, OK


-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe
Curry
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 10:08 AM
To: nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com;
spitfires at autox.team.net; SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com;
spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net; maya2blue at juno.com
Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire

My suggestionis to do the Bosche conversion.  It is both electronically and
mechanically a direct swap.  The only thing that might be different is a
different size belt.

It is for a 78-80 Ford Fiesta.

Not only will it cure the noise but it will generate a full 55 amps to power
any sort of accessories that you choose to install.

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <maya2blue at juno.com>
To: <nass at yahoogroups.com>; <NASS-club at yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfires at autox.team.net>; <SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>;
<Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire


> Greetings....
>
> I have a very noisy alternator in my 1978 Spitfire. Almost a "klanging"
> sort of noise!  The "noise" seems to increase as RPM's increase.
>
> Heard the noise and have isolated it (by hand and ear) to the alternator.
>
> The belt is adjusted properly.
>
> All bolts are tight.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Many tks all suggestions!
>
> Harve
>
>
> Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
> 531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
> Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
> 72701 USA
> 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Jul 17 23:17:51 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 22:17:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire
In-Reply-To: <7BC2D1697D614C5EA12CC149535F4FC3@shack2>
References: <20080717.095016.5052.0.maya2blue@juno.com>
	<001701c8e81e$f3140ea0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
	<9143FF2A3DEF481CBC892155D7F2EC89@shack2>
	<001401c8e892$cb0c7680$0202a8c0@newcomputer>
	<7BC2D1697D614C5EA12CC149535F4FC3@shack2>
Message-ID: <001501c8e895$a049a050$0202a8c0@newcomputer>

Yeah, my car was first converted to a Lucas alternator and after I kept
adding electrical stuff, I finally over-drove the capabilities of that wimpy
Lucas unit.  The Bosche was the cat's meow!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Gingerich [mailto:bill at gingerich.us] 
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 10:11 PM
To: 'Joe Curry'; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net;
maya2blue at juno.com
Subject: RE: [Spits] [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire

Joe,

Valid point.  My experience with the MkI is rather limited.  I was not aware
they used a larger wire with the generator.  I was thinking more of the
later cars.

Bill



-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] 
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 11:58 PM
To: 'Bill Gingerich'; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net;
maya2blue at juno.com
Subject: RE: [Spits] [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire

I suppose you are correct, but since mine is on a Mk1 using that very large
wire that previously powered the generator, it was not necessary.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Gingerich [mailto:bill at gingerich.us] 
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 9:53 PM
To: 'Joe Curry'; nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com;
spitfires at autox.team.net; SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com;
spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net; maya2blue at juno.com
Subject: RE: [Spits] [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire

It's also a good idea to run a larger "charge" wire from alternator to
solenoid to handle the higher output current.

BillG
Newalla, OK


-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe
Curry
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 10:08 AM
To: nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com;
spitfires at autox.team.net; SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com;
spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net; maya2blue at juno.com
Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] noisy (?) alternator '78 spitfire

My suggestionis to do the Bosche conversion.  It is both electronically and
mechanically a direct swap.  The only thing that might be different is a
different size belt.

It is for a 78-80 Ford Fiesta.

Not only will it cure the noise but it will generate a full 55 amps to power
any sort of accessories that you choose to install.

Joe

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 18 00:22:31 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 23:22:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <d4f.3111e2ce.35b1344e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080718062231.QVCU4153.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> i want you to mention the single best improvement one 
> can make on their tr3's. 

Hard to pick just one!  Especially when so many of the things work together
as a system.

Guess I'd have to go for the steering/suspension improvement package, which
contains :

Rebuilt front suspension with Nylatron bushings.
All-metal steering pivots (Silentblocs)
Careful rebuild of steering box to stock spec.
TR6 wheels
Low profile, sticky tires (Potenza 205/55)
Sway bars front & rear

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 18 04:17:33 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 10:17:33 +0000
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <d4f.3111e2ce.35b1344e@aol.com>
References: <d4f.3111e2ce.35b1344e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W41710421081AD967652A87E5890@phx.gbl>

I think the single best improvement I have made to my TR3A is the installation
of the Revington rack and pinion steering.

The second most important improvement was changing to the TR4 upper a-arms,
ball joints, and trunions adding positive caster to my steering.  Followed by
adjusting the ride height to create some rake toward the front of the car.

The third best improvement was converting the car to a Ford 289 drive line.

It now steers like a Cadillac and runs like a bat out of hell.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_mobile_0720
08

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 18 04:24:55 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 10:24:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] removing rust in block
In-Reply-To: <1DCDE6FBE7DC42449191149FD7ABD9CF@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <071720082339.5249.487FD81A000C938D0000148122165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
	<1DCDE6FBE7DC42449191149FD7ABD9CF@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W25D53168BDE11B5EF8104DE5890@phx.gbl>

If you just want to replace an engine with a used one you should get a used
one that runs and just swap the engines.  If you are going to tear the engine
down to the short block before installing it doing the boil out and replacing
worn out rings and bearings is the only cost and time effective thing to do.

If the used engine is in a condition that requires disassembly and repairs
before use only doing a patch job insures that other components will fail in
the near future.   Doing a valve job on a used engine will only increase the
pressures on the used rings and bearings.  It may cost you more money than you
wanted to spend at the moment but the alternative is you will soon be pulling
the engine again and rebuilding it, doubling your time commitment and some of
your costs.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Time for vacation? WIN what you need- enter now!
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergiveaway/?ocid=tag_jlyhm

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Fri Jul 18 05:38:34 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 06:38:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR7 - TR8?
Message-ID: <200807181138.m6IBcZ0S347934@ns3.geneseo.net>

Ebay item number

290245551949 is a TR8 in Canada. The VIN listed for the car is

TPLDV8AT200018.

Is there a quick and easy way to verify that this is a TR8 and not a 
converted TR7?


uncle jack 

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Jul 18 05:47:20 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 07:47:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR7 - TR8?
References: <200807181138.m6IBcZ0S347934@ns3.geneseo.net>
Message-ID: <000601c8e8cc$09d90890$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

The VIN.  

Isn't this the same car being discussed on the britishcarforum board?  



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 7:38 AM
Subject: [TR] TR7 - TR8?


> Ebay item number
> 
> 290245551949 is a TR8 in Canada. The VIN listed for the car is
> 
> TPLDV8AT200018.
> 
> Is there a quick and easy way to verify that this is a TR8 and not a 
> converted TR7?
> 
> 
> uncle jack 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as opposumking at verizon.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Mark.Evans at Anheuser-Busch.com  Fri Jul 18 06:38:00 2008
From: Mark.Evans at Anheuser-Busch.com (Evans, Mark CVB Info Systems)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 08:38:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Tank
Message-ID: <E4AA955B71D8F148AD7A957BD4E1C6F3018F69B4@other>

I'm asking this question for my brother who has a TR3a. He still claims he
doesn't have time to participate in this list though he'll spend 3 hours
driving
to 5 FLAPS looking for a part for a 50 year old car.

He woke up in the wee hours one morning this week smelling gasoline. His TR
is
parked below his bedroom in a garage. Before his entire house blew up in
spectacular display, he managed to get the car and the large piece of carpet
that had absorbed several gallons of gasoline moved to the driveway. He then
went back to sleep.

After removing and inspecting his empty fuel tank, he discovers a 3" x 3"
fiberglass patch on the bottom of the fuel tank is what has failed. He wasn't
aware that he owned an IED.

The holes in the tank are pinholes in a 3" x 3" area at the bottom of the
tank.
The rest of the tank looks good.

His question: Is this worth repairing? A tank from Moss is out of the
question
due to cost. I told him he could find one on E-Bay but he doesn't have time
for
silly things like e-mail and the Internet.

Any suggestions I could give him would be helpful.

Mark A. Evans

I recently changed my car's name to be more appropriate.
1966 TR4A IRS CTC63970 LO "'F'ugly"
1982 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo running B100 "BioBenz"
Acworth, Georgia - USA






The information transmitted (including attachments) is
covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act,
18 U.S.C. 2510-2521, is intended only for the person(s) or
entity/entities to which it is addressed and may contain
confidential and/or privileged material. Any review,
retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking
of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons
or entities other than the intended recipient(s) is prohibited.
If you received this in error, please contact the sender and
delete the material from any computer.

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri Jul 18 06:51:13 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 05:51:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Tank
In-Reply-To: <E4AA955B71D8F148AD7A957BD4E1C6F3018F69B4@other>
References: <E4AA955B71D8F148AD7A957BD4E1C6F3018F69B4@other>
Message-ID: <B9F9EA12-6573-4590-8BB4-B2C9F69B19F7@cox.net>

Many years ago I took a tank from a 240Z in and had it patched.  Did  
not cost much & the patches held.  If I remember correctly they  
braised pennies over all the holes.

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From kkealty at rogers.com  Fri Jul 18 07:05:12 2008
From: kkealty at rogers.com (KEVIN KEALTY)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 06:05:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR7 - TR8?
Message-ID: <926354.22167.qm@web88207.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi Jack.
According to www.trdrivers.com:
T = Truimph
P = TR7/8
L = Canada
D = Convertible
V = 3.5 litre V8
8 = LHD Manual
A = 1980 model year
T = Canley (assembly plant)
The rest is the chassis number which, for Canley, was from 200001 to 215080

Kevin
----- Original Message ----
From: Jack W. Drews <vinttr4 at geneseo.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 7:38:34 AM
Subject: [TR] TR7 - TR8?

Ebay item number

290245551949 is a TR8 in Canada. The VIN listed for the car is

TPLDV8AT200018.

Is there a quick and easy way to verify that this is a TR8 and not a 
converted TR7?

From auprichard at comcast.net  Fri Jul 18 07:10:08 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 09:10:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Tank
In-Reply-To: <E4AA955B71D8F148AD7A957BD4E1C6F3018F69B4@other>
References: <E4AA955B71D8F148AD7A957BD4E1C6F3018F69B4@other>
Message-ID: <001101c8e8d7$9af29160$4dac134c@DCH6RFC1>

Definitely worth repairing, since the shop will seal it after the repair.
Had mine done for $100 in Framingham, Mass.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Evans, Mark CVB Info Systems
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 8:38 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Tank

I'm asking this question for my brother who has a TR3a. He still claims he
doesn't have time to participate in this list though he'll spend 3 hours
driving
to 5 FLAPS looking for a part for a 50 year old car.

He woke up in the wee hours one morning this week smelling gasoline. His TR
is
parked below his bedroom in a garage. Before his entire house blew up in
spectacular display, he managed to get the car and the large piece of carpet
that had absorbed several gallons of gasoline moved to the driveway. He then
went back to sleep.

After removing and inspecting his empty fuel tank, he discovers a 3" x 3"
fiberglass patch on the bottom of the fuel tank is what has failed. He
wasn't
aware that he owned an IED.

The holes in the tank are pinholes in a 3" x 3" area at the bottom of the
tank.
The rest of the tank looks good.

His question: Is this worth repairing? A tank from Moss is out of the
question
due to cost. I told him he could find one on E-Bay but he doesn't have time
for
silly things like e-mail and the Internet.

Any suggestions I could give him would be helpful.

Mark A. Evans

I recently changed my car's name to be more appropriate.
1966 TR4A IRS CTC63970 LO "'F'ugly"
1982 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo running B100 "BioBenz"
Acworth, Georgia - USA






The information transmitted (including attachments) is
covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act,
18 U.S.C. 2510-2521, is intended only for the person(s) or
entity/entities to which it is addressed and may contain
confidential and/or privileged material. Any review,
retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking
of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons
or entities other than the intended recipient(s) is prohibited.
If you received this in error, please contact the sender and
delete the material from any computer.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Fri Jul 18 08:09:30 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 07:09:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
References: <d4f.3111e2ce.35b1344e@aol.com>
	<BAY110-W41710421081AD967652A87E5890@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <006501c8e8df$e5b93390$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Hi Tom,

You mentioned that one of the improvements you made to your TR3 was the
changing the stock drive line to a ford 289. Does that mean engine, trans, and
rear end to ford or strictly just the drive line?
I am in the process of having my driveline check out and the preliminary
indications is the splines on the drive shaft are worn, so balancing cannot be
accomplished. The u-joints have been replaced, but their is still vibration
coming from the drive shaft.
They have indicated they can replace the splines with "Spicer" components, and
then the balancing can be accomplished.
What does the list think, should I look for another drive shaft or repair the
one I have?
Will balancing really make that much difference and justify the cost of the
spicer components?

Regards,
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: tom white
  To: l1j1s at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 3:17 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 best improvement


  I think the single best improvement I have made to my TR3A is the
installation
  of the Revington rack and pinion steering.

  The second most important improvement was changing to the TR4 upper a-arms,
  ball joints, and trunions adding positive caster to my steering.  Followed
by
  adjusting the ride height to create some rake toward the front of the car.

  The third best improvement was converting the car to a Ford 289 drive line.

  It now steers like a Cadillac and runs like a bat out of hell.

  Best regards,
  Tom



  _________________________________________________________________
  With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
  http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_mobile_07
20
  08
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From skip47 at clearwire.net  Fri Jul 18 09:38:26 2008
From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 08:38:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
References: <d4f.3111e2ce.35b1344e@aol.com><BAY110-W41710421081AD967652A87E5890@phx.gbl>
	<006501c8e8df$e5b93390$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
Message-ID: <004201c8e8ec$5380b950$6700a8c0@ZEUS>

Hi Ibsen-
If a TR4 driveshaft fits, I have somehow accumulated four extras over the
years.  I'll pick the best one and send it CHEAP!  Let me know.
By the way, I upgraded a driveshaft and rear axles on my TVR (which had TR6
axles) with Spicer components, they've been bulletproof and were suprisingly
inexpensive, albeit 15-20 years ago.
Best,
Skip Gurnee
64TR4
66 TR4A
+ nearly another car in miscellaneous parts....

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ibsen Dow" <flashtr3 at cox.net>
To: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 best improvement

<snip>

> What does the list think, should I look for another drive shaft or repair
the
> one I have?
> Will balancing really make that much difference and justify the cost of
the
> spicer components?
>
> Regards,
> Ibsen

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 18 10:07:23 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 09:07:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] removing rust in block
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W25D53168BDE11B5EF8104DE5890@phx.gbl>
References: <071720082339.5249.487FD81A000C938D0000148122165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
	<1DCDE6FBE7DC42449191149FD7ABD9CF@jdnet.deere.com>
	<BAY110-W25D53168BDE11B5EF8104DE5890@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0B9A7889CDFE43B0A7C6B889F6790CBB@jdnet.deere.com>

> If you are going to tear
> the engine down to the short block before installing it doing the boil out
> and replacing worn out rings and bearings is the only cost and time
> effective thing to do.

IMO, that depends on the circumstances, including how much your time to R&R
the engine is worth versus how much it costs to do a full overhaul.  Stag
engines are notoriously expensive to overhaul, it can easily cost more than
the car is worth (which is why there are so many re-engined Stags around).

TS39781LO still has the short block out of a 56 TR3 I bought for the OD;
which still had 3 out of 4 original pistons in it when I got it.  Very
likely the cam & crank were still original.  I put nearly 100,000 miles on
that engine (including taking 1st in class at a VTR autox then driving some
1000 miles to get home), without ever even removing the cam & crank; and it
still ran fine even after the car was totaled a few years ago.

Took me a long time to learn "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", but it works
surprisingly well.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 18 10:23:10 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 09:23:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Tank
In-Reply-To: <E4AA955B71D8F148AD7A957BD4E1C6F3018F69B4@other>
References: <E4AA955B71D8F148AD7A957BD4E1C6F3018F69B4@other>
Message-ID: <90FC41D8D01F42DCB559913A71E3BECB@jdnet.deere.com>

> The holes in the tank are pinholes in a 3" x 3" area at the bottom of the
> tank.

Mine were more extensive than that, more like 3 x 9.  Repaired it myself
many years ago using soft solder, propane torch and a patch panel beat from
a soup can.  Still holds gas today.

To get all the fumes out, I filled several times with water and let it
overflow (as well as out the bottom openings) for a minute or two, then
drained and let it dry in the sun.  Repeated that several times, until I
could no longer see traces of petroleum floating on the water nor smell any
fumes.

YMMV and all that, but it can be done.

The tank I picked up from eBay for $50 is still in the garage rafters.

Randall

From maya2blue at juno.com  Fri Jul 18 12:06:03 2008
From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 13:06:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] bad alternator - was noisy alternator!!
Message-ID: <20080718.130603.5976.1.maya2blue@juno.com>

Many tks to all that offered suggestions. It turns out that the thing is
kaput! 

So I will be doing a replacement - GM or Bosche or ??

Again, tks to all for your help..

Harve


Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Apply now for a credit loan with fast approval.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3qZOL3szhGHBqZdkNeEKbmuBoZL4JlFfiR8rAvRB9arY8p/

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Fri Jul 18 12:33:26 2008
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 14:33:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Tank
Message-ID: <4880e1f6.389.2e2f.24061@cogeco.ca>

Your local radiator & fuel tank repair place should be able to give you a quote on fixing it.

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Jul 18 12:33:11 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 14:33:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] >>NASS  bad alternator - was noisy alternator!!
References: <20080718.130603.5976.1.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <001301c8e904$c63f7e50$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

I would go Bosche or Denso myself.  I've done the GM conversion before, it
doesn't look very good, imo.  The unit is very large hanging off the tiny
Spitfire engine.



  ----- Original Message -----
  From: maya2blue at juno.com
  To: nass at yahoogroups.com ; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com ;
spitfires at autox.team.net ; SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com ;
spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com ; Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com ;
triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 2:06 PM
  Subject: >>NASS bad alternator - was noisy alternator!!


  Many tks to all that offered suggestions. It turns out that the thing is
  kaput!

  So I will be doing a replacement - GM or Bosche or ??

  Again, tks to all for your help..

  Harve

  Harve Thorn (NASS #79)
  531 Amen Corner ('78 1500 Spitfire)
  Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6)
  72701 USA
  479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
  __________________________________________________________
  Get an Unsecured Loan - Fast and Low Cost. Click here!
  http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3iTfrwgmpQFez8qZY112rgM
eDWRcfa0a0Civ8eXDRzzHmw/


  __._,_.___
  Messages in this topic (1) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic
  Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Database | Members | Calendar
  >> To unsubscribe send an empty email to: nass-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com
  >> NASS Home Site nasshq resources http://www.nasshq.org
  >> Full Membership details: http://www.nasshq.org/docs/memberapp.html

  MARKETPLACE

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  Attention, Yahoo! Groups users! Sign up now for a one-month free trial from
Blockbuster. Limited time offer.

  Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
  Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch format
to Traditional
  Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe Recent Activity
    a..  1New Members
  Visit Your Group
  Health Zone
  Look your best!

  Groups to help you

  look & feel great.

  Healthy Living
  Learn to live life

  to the fullest

  on Yahoo! Groups.

  Cat Zone
  on Yahoo! Groups

  Join a Group

  all about cats.
  .
  __,_._,___

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Jul 18 12:55:29 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 14:55:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] >>NASS  bad alternator - was noisy alternator!!
In-Reply-To: <20080718.130603.5976.1.maya2blue@juno.com>
References: <20080718.130603.5976.1.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <8CAB71EFB497D07-E08-D30@WEBMAIL-DF05.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: maya2blue at juno.com

Many tks to all that offered suggestions. It turns out that the thing is
kaput!

So I will be doing a replacement - GM or Bosche or ??

==AM==
...or Lucas? Nothing inherently bad about the OE type other than 
capacity if you've added lots of electron-gobbling items to the car. 
And they're readily available.

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul 18 13:26:07 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 12:26:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] >>NASS  bad alternator - was noisy alternator!!
References: <20080718.130603.5976.1.maya2blue@juno.com>
	<8CAB71EFB497D07-E08-D30@WEBMAIL-DF05.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <007301c8e90c$21140a60$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

That was the very reason I upgraded to the Bosche.  With the Halogen
Headlamps, Electric Fuel Pump, Stereo system and finally the Electronic
Ingition/ Fuel injection, there was just too few amps coming from the wimpy
Lucas unit to keep up with the demand.

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Mace" <zoboherald at aol.com>
To: <nass at yahoogroups.com>; <NASS-club at yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfires at autox.team.net>; <SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>;
<Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] >>NASS bad alternator - was noisy alternator!!


> -----Original Message-----
> From: maya2blue at juno.com
>
> Many tks to all that offered suggestions. It turns out that the thing is
> kaput!
>
> So I will be doing a replacement - GM or Bosche or ??
>
> ==AM==
> ...or Lucas? Nothing inherently bad about the OE type other than
> capacity if you've added lots of electron-gobbling items to the car.
> And they're readily available.
>
> --Andy Mace
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From red_tr250 at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 18 14:00:00 2008
From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 16:00:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] removing rust in block
In-Reply-To: <1DCDE6FBE7DC42449191149FD7ABD9CF@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <071720082339.5249.487FD81A000C938D0000148122165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
	<1DCDE6FBE7DC42449191149FD7ABD9CF@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY131-W144D9E311C799DEA6F59BBD2890@phx.gbl>

Along the same lines, I have a GT6 that I believe is running hot. I removed
the thermostat & noticed a ton of garbage in the thermostat/pump housing. The
passage over to the intake was nearly blocked with rusty metal bits. This
leads me to believe that there is other stuff in the passages that needs to
come out. I've flushed with water several times...keeping the system going
until no brown stuff came out, but more brown stuff keeps showing up. My
question is, do the chemical flushes work?

Thanks,
Todd Bermudez
68 GT6 Mk1 RHD


> From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 17:10:21 -0700
> Subject: Re: [TR] removing rust in block
>
>> O man, I HATE to have a different opinion than Randall!
>
> No problemo, Terry!
>
> You're right of course; it certainly wouldn't hurt anything but his
> pocketbook to have it boiled out.
>
> But I'm assuming (there's that word again) that Sujit was just wanting to
> drop this used engine in to replace the trashed one he took out; not
> undertake a full rebuild. I know that's what I would be hoping to do.
>
> Obviously it's his choice to make, I was just presenting an opposing
> opinion.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as red_tr250 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 18 14:08:53 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 13:08:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] removing rust in block
In-Reply-To: <BAY131-W144D9E311C799DEA6F59BBD2890@phx.gbl>
References: <071720082339.5249.487FD81A000C938D0000148122165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
	<1DCDE6FBE7DC42449191149FD7ABD9CF@jdnet.deere.com>
	<BAY131-W144D9E311C799DEA6F59BBD2890@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6FF2C1FC950E4EFE83E45D63144DB21C@jdnet.deere.com>

> Along the same lines, I have a GT6 that I believe is running hot. I
> removed the thermostat & noticed a ton of garbage in the thermostat/pump
> housing. The passage over to the intake was nearly blocked with rusty
> metal bits. This leads me to believe that there is other stuff in the
> passages that needs to come out. I've flushed with water several
> times...keeping the system going until no brown stuff came out, but more
> brown stuff keeps showing up. My question is, do the chemical flushes
> work?

Apparently, the 'good' flushes have been taken off the market; at least I
can't find them on local shelves any more.  But my local radiator shop has a
process where they blow a mixture of water and air through the engine, that
seems to work well.

The other thing you can try is removing the plug (or valve) on the side of
the block, and probing through the hole with a stiff wire.  Then flush water
out the hole until it runs clear.  Lather, rinse, repeat as necessary.

Randall

From lisa at josephvincelli.com  Fri Jul 18 14:26:46 2008
From: lisa at josephvincelli.com (Lisa Richardson)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 15:26:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Seafoam?
Message-ID: <A0EF930A5F5E42B8ADF256BC28CB76AD@LisaRichardsPC>

Hey list,
 
Has anyone ever used the Seafoam additive in their TRs? My TR6 was running
poorly and I thought I might have gotten a bad tank of gas and my mechanic
said to put in some and wow!! My car idled perfectly and ran like a race
horse. I ride horses, I know!!! Then the next tank without it was back to
sputtering etc.....is it just that the additive is that good? Do I need
possible work on Carbs or blowing something out? Is using the additive on
every tank not good for it?
 
Thanks for your help list.
 
LRV

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Fri Jul 18 14:39:13 2008
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 15:39:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Seafoam?
In-Reply-To: <A0EF930A5F5E42B8ADF256BC28CB76AD@LisaRichardsPC>
References: <A0EF930A5F5E42B8ADF256BC28CB76AD@LisaRichardsPC>
Message-ID: <abb8688a0807181339y1efd616fp3797b253b4ecbc07@mail.gmail.com>

I use SeaFoam on occasion.  It does a good job of cleaning out carb
passages and reducing carbon buildup in cylinders.  It also works as a
fuel stabilizer for off-season storage (better than Sta-Bil or
others).  I would probably not run it in every tank, mostly due to
cost.  But I don't think it would hurt anything.  I have used the
stuff full strength to "drown" a motor (pour a bottle into the intake
of a running engine till it stalls) with great success and no ill
effects.

On Fri, Jul 18, 2008 at 3:26 PM, Lisa Richardson
<lisa at josephvincelli.com> wrote:
> Hey list,
>
> Has anyone ever used the Seafoam additive in their TRs? My TR6 was running
> poorly and I thought I might have gotten a bad tank of gas and my mechanic
> said to put in some and wow!! My car idled perfectly and ran like a race
> horse. I ride horses, I know!!! Then the next tank without it was back to
> sputtering etc.....is it just that the additive is that good? Do I need
> possible work on Carbs or blowing something out? Is using the additive on
> every tank not good for it?
>
> Thanks for your help list.
>
> LRV
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as jdinnis at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown =
=================================

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri Jul 18 15:29:31 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 16:29:31 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] bad alternator - was noisy alternator!!
Message-ID: <29166967.1074471216416571568.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

  I went witht he higher output Lucas myself.  Maybe its just me.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

On Fri, Jul 18, 2008 at  2:06 PM, maya2blue at juno.com wrote:

> Many tks to all that offered suggestions. It turns out that the thing
> is
kaput!

So I will be doing a replacement - GM or Bosche or ??

Again, tks to all for your help..

Harve

Harve ThornB B B B B B B B B  (NASS #79)
531 Amen CornerB B  ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, ARB B B  (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Apply now for a credit loan with fast approval.

http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3qZOL3szhGHBqZdkNeEKbmuBo
ZL4JlFfiR8rAvRB9arY8p/
<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3qZOL3szhGHBqZdkNeEKbmuB
oZL4JlFfiR8rAvRB9arY8p/>
B 
<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3qZOL3szhGHBqZdkNeEKbmuB
oZL4JlFfiR8rAvRB9arY8p/>
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org <http://www.vtr.org> B  <http://www.vtr.org>

Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net> B 
<mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> B 
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs>

You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net
<mailto:thenicholls at verizon.net> B  <mailto:thenicholls at verizon.net>

http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive> B 
<http://www.team.net/archive>

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul 18 15:48:30 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 14:48:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] bad alternator - was noisy alternator!!
References: <29166967.1074471216416571568.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>
Message-ID: <011301c8e920$0512c2c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

The "Higher Output Lucas" being defined as What?

That would have been myfirst preference if there was such an item.
Unfortunately the highest output one Icould find was something like 25 amps.

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <thenicholls at verizon.net>
To: <maya2blue at juno.com>
Cc: <nass at yahoogroups.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
<NASS-club at yahoogroups.com>; <spitfires at autox.team.net>;
<spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>; <SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com>;
<Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] bad alternator - was noisy alternator!!


>   I went witht he higher output Lucas myself.  Maybe its just me.
>
> Craig
> 1972 Triumph TR6
>
> On Fri, Jul 18, 2008 at  2:06 PM, maya2blue at juno.com wrote:
>
> > Many tks to all that offered suggestions. It turns out that the thing
> > is
> kaput!
>
> So I will be doing a replacement - GM or Bosche or ??
>
> Again, tks to all for your help..
>
> Harve
>
> Harve ThornB B B B B B B B B  (NASS #79)
> 531 Amen CornerB B  ('78 1500 Spitfire)
> Fayetteville, ARB B B  (looking for a "nice" GT6)
> 72701 USA
> 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
> ____________________________________________________________
> Need cash? Apply now for a credit loan with fast approval.
>
>
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3qZOL3szhGHBqZdkNeEKbmuBo
> ZL4JlFfiR8rAvRB9arY8p/
>
<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3qZOL3szhGHBqZdkNeEKbmu
B
> oZL4JlFfiR8rAvRB9arY8p/>
> B
>
<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3qZOL3szhGHBqZdkNeEKbmu
B
> oZL4JlFfiR8rAvRB9arY8p/>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org <http://www.vtr.org> B  <http://www.vtr.org>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net> B
> <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> B
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs>
>
> You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net
> <mailto:thenicholls at verizon.net> B  <mailto:thenicholls at verizon.net>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive> B
> <http://www.team.net/archive>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mathews at uga.edu  Fri Jul 18 16:21:53 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 18:21:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] removing rust in block et al
In-Reply-To: <6FF2C1FC950E4EFE83E45D63144DB21C@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <071720082339.5249.487FD81A000C938D0000148122165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
	<1DCDE6FBE7DC42449191149FD7ABD9CF@jdnet.deere.com>
	<BAY131-W144D9E311C799DEA6F59BBD2890@phx.gbl>
	<6FF2C1FC950E4EFE83E45D63144DB21C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <20080718222106.4080718765A@autox.team.net>

List,

Related on overheating...
My son has a Mercury Sable  and it would overheat, tranny shift 
funny, etc. So they took it to a shop and a $1,000+ later the shop 
declared all was well.  Head job, tranny flush, etc, etc. It seemed 
to be somewhat better but over time it resumed its bad overheating 
from time to time.

So when I got to the heat/ac course in my education at technical 
school, I volunteered their car for a project. Long story short, my 
instructor (a Ford master mechanic) watched it idle and watched the 
water in the radiator reservoir and said it thought we should look at 
the water pump. So off it came and guess what...the vanes were 
totally gone and it looked like thin blades turning in the water and 
you know how effective that was.  So that got replaced but I  figured 
if all that metal was gone it had to be somewhere and I guessed the 
heater core and radiator.  SO the radiator came out and I'd estimate 
that 20-25% of the lower cores were totally filled with shrapnel! So 
I put a new radiator on, back flushed the cooling system (block and 
heater core), exchanged tranny fluid and its been good as gold 
since.  They can even run the ac now!

My point is that id there is a bunch of "stuff" in the cooling 
system, I'd darn sure flush the heater core and radiator. When I had 
my TR4 motor rebuilt I had the radiator professionally cleaned and it 
would sit in the summer heat and idle all day with out any 
fluctuations in the guage.

Doug 

From sportsix63 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 18 16:57:49 2008
From: sportsix63 at yahoo.com (jim williams)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 15:57:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Seafoam?
In-Reply-To: <A0EF930A5F5E42B8ADF256BC28CB76AD@LisaRichardsPC>
Message-ID: <601613.69822.qm@web30507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I've used the Seafoam for automatic  transmissions with great success. I wouldn't see why the engine would be any different.

Jim Williams  Lewisburg, West Virginia



--- On Fri, 7/18/08, Lisa Richardson <lisa at josephvincelli.com> wrote:

> From: Lisa Richardson <lisa at josephvincelli.com>
> Subject: [TR] Seafoam?
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, July 18, 2008, 4:26 PM
> Hey list,
>  
> Has anyone ever used the Seafoam additive in their TRs? My
> TR6 was running
> poorly and I thought I might have gotten a bad tank of gas
> and my mechanic
> said to put in some and wow!! My car idled perfectly and
> ran like a race
> horse. I ride horses, I know!!! Then the next tank without
> it was back to
> sputtering etc.....is it just that the additive is that
> good? Do I need
> possible work on Carbs or blowing something out? Is using
> the additive on
> every tank not good for it?
>  
> Thanks for your help list.
>  
> LRV
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as sportsix63 at yahoo.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Jul 18 18:52:12 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 20:52:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
Message-ID: <c3e.2a10dae7.35b294bc@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/18/2008 1:26:20 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

Sway  bars front & rear




I have installed a front.  Lets talk about the rear.  What  is recommended?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Jul 18 19:22:08 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 18:22:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <c3e.2a10dae7.35b294bc@aol.com>
References: <c3e.2a10dae7.35b294bc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <p06240801c4a6f11696af@[98.224.22.215]>

For me there is a very long  list ... however  the  most  impressive, 
immediate results were the  Derlin silent blocs, urethane front 
bushings, and the bronze bushing conversion for the rear spring 
shackles.
These converted a pretty good handling  car, into a extremely 
impressive handling machine!! Gone is the "bump steer"  (Joe, that is 
when  you hit a  bump in a hard  corner and the car  wants  to go a 
different  way ... sometimes exciting) NO play in the steering 
driving down the highway, and curves and corners  happen almost by 
"mind  control".
It  does result in some  "white knuckle" rides  for  AnnaBelle, but 
Casper  and I  are having  a  great  time ...

-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From don at napanet.net  Fri Jul 18 19:25:18 2008
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 17:25:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] Seattle inspection
In-Reply-To: <20080718.130603.5976.1.maya2blue@juno.com>
References: <20080718.130603.5976.1.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20080718171839.02c84a40@pop.napanet.net>

>Hello TR folks,

I have found a TR4 which I am hoping to purchase that is a bit of a 
distance from me.  I'm near SF CA, and it is in Seattle.  Can anyone 
recommend a British car shop or British car expert that could look at it 
for me?  I do expect to have to spend some money on getting it right as I 
know it's got a few issues.  I just want to be able to assess it to some 
extent before making the trip north.  Thanks!

Don Scott
'91 Miata
'62 MGA
'73 MGB GT
(former TR8 owner though) 


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.5.2/1561 - Release Date: 07/18/2008 6:35 PM

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 18 19:55:22 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 21:55:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 Beer Swap
Message-ID: <BAY123-W37E3ECD588E96ADAB7AC6BBA880@phx.gbl>

A gathering of suds lovers will take place
at this years national
convention.  It
will be an informal gathering of friends to share your
favorite home brew or
that special microbrew that you like.  The Brew Swap
will take place on Tuesday
August 5th in a designated room at the host hotel.
It will be a
prelude to the welcome reception, from 4:00 to 6:00 ish.  We will
provide the room, tables and some
glasses. Bring your favorite cold special
beverage and possibly some snacks
that would go good with beer. Game plan is
to mingle and sample others favorite
beer (or whatever) and if you find
something you gotta have you can swap the
owner one of his bottles for one of
your bottles and have something to take
home. This will give us an opportunity
to sample some home brews made by fellow
Triumph owners and possibly some
micro brews from different parts of the
country that you normally would not
get to try.  If you plan on participating please give me a direct reply so we
can try and do some planning .

Thanks,Marty Sukey

_________________________________________________________________
Time for vacation? WIN what you need- enter now!
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergiveaway/?ocid=tag_jlyhm

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul 18 20:00:29 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 19:00:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 Beer Swap
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W37E3ECD588E96ADAB7AC6BBA880@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W37E3ECD588E96ADAB7AC6BBA880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000301c8e943$38aafdf0$0402a8c0@newcomputer>

Bring some "Pre-Takeover" Bud.  It is surely going to become a collector's
item!

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty
sukey
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 6:55 PM
To: 6 Digest; FOT; TriumphList
Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 Beer Swap

A gathering of suds lovers will take place
at this years national
convention.  It
will be an informal gathering of friends to share your
favorite home brew or
that special microbrew that you like.  The Brew Swap
will take place on Tuesday
August 5th in a designated room at the host hotel.
It will be a
prelude to the welcome reception, from 4:00 to 6:00 ish.  We will
provide the room, tables and some
glasses. Bring your favorite cold special
beverage and possibly some snacks
that would go good with beer. Game plan is
to mingle and sample others favorite
beer (or whatever) and if you find
something you gotta have you can swap the
owner one of his bottles for one of
your bottles and have something to take
home. This will give us an opportunity
to sample some home brews made by fellow
Triumph owners and possibly some
micro brews from different parts of the
country that you normally would not
get to try.  If you plan on participating please give me a direct reply so
we
can try and do some planning .

Thanks,Marty Sukey

_________________________________________________________________
Time for vacation? WIN what you need- enter now!
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergiveaway/?ocid=tag_jlyhm
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From jmitch at snet.net  Fri Jul 18 20:24:04 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 22:24:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Crankshafts
Message-ID: <48815044.6070602@snet.net>

   Can anyone tell me why they list 4 different model number crankshafts 
for the TR6, 2 for carb engines and 2 for PI engines.  What were the 
differences and did they all interchange?  Thanks,  John Mitchell  76 TR6

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Fri Jul 18 21:34:58 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 20:34:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <c3e.2a10dae7.35b294bc@aol.com>
References: <c3e.2a10dae7.35b294bc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <488160E2.8040501@razzolink.com>

DLylis at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/18/2008 1:26:20 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:
>
> Sway  bars front & rear
>
>
> I have installed a front.  Lets talk about the rear.  What  is recommended?
>   
There are those who believe the TR3 handles better with the front 
suspension firmer and the rear suspension left stock or maybe add inch 
longer rear shackles to allow more rear suspension travel before lifting 
a rear wheel.

There are those who believe that stiffening the rear leads to less 
predictable handling  whilst driving on the edge.

I personally would choose a front anti sway bar as the best single 
modification from stock followed VERY closely by an overdrive.  But both 
were factory options so I guess they would not be considered modifications.

Every wonder why factory competition options include a front anti sway 
bar, stiffer front springs but not a rear anti sway bar?

Teriann

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 19 05:15:40 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 07:15:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Removing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19339.1216428719.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19339.1216428719.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E38BECD0-933C-45CD-A093-A1F0A2770D60@comcast.net>

Think about  addressing this as three possible accumulations of gunk:  
radiator, block and heater core. I'd tackle each separately.

I had done as Randall suggests below, with the valve on the right side  
of the block, and got an eggcup full of green sparkly grit that may  
have been casting sand left in the block. My valve was seized, so with  
a replacement in hand I screwed out the old valve. Nothing came out of  
this approx 1" hole in the block. Not one drip! A poke around with a  
bit of coat hanger released the grit, and then a lot of old coolant.

My PO had installed a Prestone valve in the hose to the heater core.  
It controls the direction of flow when a hose is connected, so allows  
me to flush into the heater core or back-flush the block. You can  
obviously do the same thing removing either end of the heater hose,  
this just makes it simpler. When I flush one of the three, I isolate  
it from the others. I don't want to flush gunk from the heater into  
the block, for example.

The process I use for each of the three items is to flush, back-flush,  
then flush again until all water runs clear. For the radiator, I back- 
flush by duct-taping my garden hose to the bottom rad port to get a  
partial seal....enough water gets into the rad to flush it.

I change coolant/antifreeze annually and will maybe do a full flush  
every couple of years. This is more frequent coolant change than they  
recommend, but its worth ensuring fresh rust inhibitor every year, I  
feel.
I use flush solution from my FLAPS. I think Prestone still has a full  
range. I never knew enough to try the 'good' flushes.


Brian

On Jul 18, 2008, at 8:51 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Message: 7
> Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 13:08:53 -0700
> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] removing rust in block
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <6FF2C1FC950E4EFE83E45D63144DB21C at jdnet.deere.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>> Along the same lines, I have a GT6 that I believe is running hot. I
>> removed the thermostat & noticed a ton of garbage in the thermostat/ 
>> pump
>> housing. The passage over to the intake was nearly blocked with rusty
>> metal bits. This leads me to believe that there is other stuff in the
>> passages that needs to come out. I've flushed with water several
>> times...keeping the system going until no brown stuff came out, but  
>> more
>> brown stuff keeps showing up. My question is, do the chemical flushes
>> work?
>
> Apparently, the 'good' flushes have been taken off the market; at  
> least I
> can't find them on local shelves any more.  But my local radiator  
> shop has a
> process where they blow a mixture of water and air through the  
> engine, that
> seems to work well.
>
> The other thing you can try is removing the plug (or valve) on the  
> side of
> the block, and probing through the hole with a stiff wire.  Then  
> flush water
> out the hole until it runs clear.  Lather, rinse, repeat as necessary.
>
> Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Jul 19 05:45:29 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 07:45:29 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
Message-ID: <c76.28a4f66f.35b32dd9@aol.com>

Terriann,
Thanks.  I am also going to wait for Randall to ring in on this  subject.  I 
have read that rear sway bars on a 3A is a no no because it  makes the car too 
twichy.  I also read the same (or similar) for the TR6  but I threw caution 
to the wind and installed one on my 69.  I like the way  it handles.  It is not 
a daily driver and my opinion might change if it  were, as you definitely 
need to pay more attention.  
 
David
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Jul 19 06:06:16 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 12:06:16 +0000
Subject: [TR] Removing
Message-ID: <071920081206.28449.4881D8B80000177B00006F2122165384969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

Running several changes of straight distilled water sometimes helps.  How did that stuff get there in the first place?  It was dissolved in the coolant.  Distilled water has more room for dissolved stuff.

For regular use, always use distilled water mixed with antifreeze.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Jul 19 06:34:04 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 12:34:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <006501c8e8df$e5b93390$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
References: <d4f.3111e2ce.35b1344e@aol.com>
	<BAY110-W41710421081AD967652A87E5890@phx.gbl>
	<006501c8e8df$e5b93390$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W405195CC8FA3DB3C46BFC7E5880@phx.gbl>

Hi Isben,

Yes, I replaced the TR components with 1965 Ford Mustang parts, Radiator thru
rear end.



Best regards,
Tom

From: flashtr3 at cox.net
To: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 best improvement
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 07:09:30 -0700










Hi Tom,

You mentioned that one of the improvements
you made to your TR3 was the changing the stock drive line to a ford 289. Does
that mean engine, trans, and rear end to ford or strictly just the drive line?

I am in the process of having my driveline
check out and the preliminary indications is the splines on the drive shaft
are
worn, so balancing cannot be accomplished. The u-joints have been replaced,
but
their is still vibration coming from the drive shaft.
They have indicated they can replace the
splines with "Spicer" components, and then the balancing can be accomplished.

What does the list think, should I look for
another drive shaft or repair the one I have?
Will balancing really make that
much difference and justify the cost of the spicer components?

Regards,
Ibsen

  ----- Original Message -----
  From:
  tom
  white
  To: l1j1s at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 3:17 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 best
  improvement

I think the single best
  improvement I have made to my TR3A is the installation
of the Revington
  rack and pinion steering.

The second most important improvement was
  changing to the TR4 upper a-arms,
ball joints, and trunions adding positive
  caster to my steering.  Followed by
adjusting the ride height to
  create some rake toward the front of the car.

The third best
  improvement was converting the car to a Ford 289 drive line.

It now
  steers like a Cadillac and runs like a bat out of hell.

Best
  regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
With
  Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_mobile_0720
08
_______________________________________________

Support
  Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This
  list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You
  are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive


_________________________________________________________________
Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety.
http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_fami
ly_safety_072008

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 19 06:41:23 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 05:41:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <c76.28a4f66f.35b32dd9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080719124123.NHAT21138.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I am also going to wait for Randall to ring in on 
> this  subject.  I have read that rear sway bars on a 3A is a 
> no no because it  makes the car too twichy.

Well, I wasn't going to say any more, but since you ask...  TeriAnn is quite
right, most people seem to feel that a rear bar does not help on the TR3.
But I like mine.

My primary goal was to eliminate the rear axle hitting the frame in hard
turns, since to me that was the most negative aspect of the car's handling.
A better driver would no doubt be able to anticipate the sudden transition
from understeer to oversteer caused by the axle hitting (and the subsequent
skipping sideways), but somehow it was usually a surprise to me and I felt
it was really dangerous.  The C&D description "... would lure you into a
corner all cozily understeering ... then throw up it's hands and bumble off
backwards." seems like a perfect description.  And, since this was primarily
a street machine, I didn't want to lower the rear.

Adding roll stiffness to the front (through a sway bar and/or stiffer
springs) also increases understeer, while I felt the car already had more
than enough understeer.  Others may feel differently of course, but that's
my opinion.

What I have are the ADDCO bars (bought many years ago through JC Whitney),
but the rear bar has rubber mounts & links while the front bar has nylon
links & poly mounts for increased stiffness.  I could still push it until
the axle hit the frame so an even stiffer front bar was my planned next step
before the car was wrecked; but the current setup provided nice neutral
handling out well beyond where the original skinny tires would have broken
loose.

On the track is different; I might well have been faster with the rear bar
disconnected.  But on the street, I like it better with the bar. YMMV

No idea if it's still the case, but the rear kit ADDCO supplied did not fit
my TR3A.  Was setup for a TR4, which has more room between the spring
perches and the wheels.  But ADDCO promptly sent me some modified brackets,
and told me how to bend the bar, so the links no longer hit the wheels.

Although not at the top of the list, I will be moving both bars to my
project TR3, in time.

Randall

From maya2blue at juno.com  Sat Jul 19 06:40:33 2008
From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 07:40:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Sorry!!!!
Message-ID: <20080719.074034.4288.2.maya2blue@juno.com>

I am very apologetic and sorry to have bomed the ilst(s) with my personal
notes!!!

I thought I was sending a msg directly and off-list.

Again, my apologies!!

Harve


Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Click for online loan, fast & no lender fee, approval today
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3WMOoSTjrL7ORLUiW7AMQd27N17GkfUItEfhKbNo5lxTtf/

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 19 07:33:35 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 09:33:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Removing
In-Reply-To: <071920081206.28449.4881D8B80000177B00006F2122165384969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <071920081206.28449.4881D8B80000177B00006F2122165384969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B63A2230-F30A-4B0E-9C16-EF65977D94D4@comcast.net>

Phil,

I don't think the sediment is all from the coolant. Some sediment is  
certainly rust, and maybe other oxidised material. Some may be from  
rad sealants previously used. Some may be from minerals in tap water  
when distilled water has not been mixed with the coolant for the fill.

I agree distilled water should be combined with coolant for the fill,  
but tap water can also be used in the flush...I use gallons and  
gallons in flushing, via my garden hose.

Brian

On Jul 19, 2008, at 8:06 AM, pethier at comcast.net wrote:

> Running several changes of straight distilled water sometimes  
> helps.  How did that stuff get there in the first place?  It was  
> dissolved in the coolant.  Distilled water has more room for  
> dissolved stuff.
>
> For regular use, always use distilled water mixed with antifreeze.
>
> --
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994  
> Miata C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Jul 19 08:26:46 2008
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 07:26:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild
Message-ID: <534241.87591.qm@web83310.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     So I pulled my TR6 brake master cylinder out. I
can't seem to get the piston out of the cylinder. What
is the trick here? TRF states in their TR6 catalog
that the master cylinder doesn't lend itself to being
rebuilt, but they still sell a rebuild kit. Am I
better off to just buy a new master cylinder for $200?
Is there a better deal out there?

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA
     1960 TR3A
     1974 TR6

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Sat Jul 19 08:44:30 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 07:44:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <20080719124123.NHAT21138.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <20080719124123.NHAT21138.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <4881FDCE.1090209@razzolink.com>

Randall wrote:
>> I am also going to wait for Randall to ring in on 
>> this  subject.  I have read that rear sway bars on a 3A is a 
>> no no because it  makes the car too twichy.
>>     
>
> Well, I wasn't going to say any more, but since you ask...  TeriAnn is quite
> right, most people seem to feel that a rear bar does not help on the TR3.
> But I like mine.
>
> My primary goal was to eliminate the rear axle hitting the frame in hard
> turns, since to me that was the most negative aspect of the car's handling.
> A better driver would no doubt be able to anticipate the sudden transition
> from understeer to oversteer caused by the axle hitting (and the subsequent
> skipping sideways), but somehow it was usually a surprise to me and I felt
> it was really dangerous.
You almost never hit that point unless you are throwing the 3 deep into 
a curve and powering out.  I've played around with that enough that on 
really sharp curves I go there to help throw the car's rear around the 
corner faster.   I don't know if it is an approved cornering method but 
going with the car's tendency gets me around the sharp corners faster.  
And this is with a stiff front suspension.  I try not to lift a rear 
wheel on the wider higher speed curves.

I've never tried a rear sway bar on a 3 but I suspect the vehicle gives 
a more solid riding on rails feel on moderate fast curves and probably 
doesn't get twitchy until you drive closer to the edge of your tyres & 
rear suspension movement.  This is just a W.A.G. mind you.

If you are looking for a TR3 sway bar may I suggest Ted at TSI Automotive. 

www.tsimportedautomotive.com

I think they are a better bet than ADDCO.


Teriann

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 19 09:07:40 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 08:07:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Welcome to No-Rosion,
 protect your car or truck's cooling system and lubrication system.
Message-ID: <p06240800c4a7b2405e97@[98.224.22.215]>

Hi folks,
	I am aware it is a very subjective topic, but Distilled Water 
is really not the best for your cooling system.  Check out the FAQs 
from the link below.  Clearly they are trying to sell a product, but 
they are not selling water ...

		http://norosion.com/

Fred Thomas  turned me on to this product and I swear by it ... One 
bottle NORosion,  one bottle Redline Water Wetter,  one gallon 
anti-freeze,  filled with filtered (not distilled) water. Every 
winter I use Prestone Radiator Cleaner, and their  "flush and fill" 
kit  (attached to the heater  outlet)  and it works ... just as Fred 
...


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 19 09:07:40 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 08:07:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Welcome to No-Rosion,
 protect your car or truck's cooling system and lubrication system.
Message-ID: <p06240800c4a7b2405e97@[98.224.22.215]>

Hi folks,
	I am aware it is a very subjective topic, but Distilled Water 
is really not the best for your cooling system.  Check out the FAQs 
from the link below.  Clearly they are trying to sell a product, but 
they are not selling water ...

		http://norosion.com/

Fred Thomas  turned me on to this product and I swear by it ... One 
bottle NORosion,  one bottle Redline Water Wetter,  one gallon 
anti-freeze,  filled with filtered (not distilled) water. Every 
winter I use Prestone Radiator Cleaner, and their  "flush and fill" 
kit  (attached to the heater  outlet)  and it works ... just as Fred 
...


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 19 09:22:42 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 08:22:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <534241.87591.qm@web83310.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080719152243.FJBX18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

>      So I pulled my TR6 brake master cylinder out. I can't 
> seem to get the piston out of the cylinder. What is the trick 
> here? 

Did you remove the tipping valve using an Allen wrench through the front
inlet ?

More at
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/MCPDWA/MC.htm
Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 19 09:29:38 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 08:29:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Removing
In-Reply-To: <B63A2230-F30A-4B0E-9C16-EF65977D94D4@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080719152939.FKSL18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I don't think the sediment is all from the coolant. Some 
> sediment is certainly rust, and maybe other oxidised 
> material. Some may be from rad sealants previously used. Some 
> may be from minerals in tap water when distilled water has 
> not been mixed with the coolant for the fill.

Plus of course the casting sand you mentioned before.

My non-LBC grocery-getter was actually clogged up from "strings" of the
silicone RTV sealer that a previous mechanic had used on the water pump.

Randall

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat Jul 19 14:09:44 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 16:09:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A front suspension assy question
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEKBFAAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Hi All,
I am getting things staged up to have my TR4A frame welding done and I came
across a puzzling situation. It has been well over a year since I
dis-assembled my front suspension so my memory is kind of fuzzy. As I look
at my new TR6 style 2-stud lower fulcrum mounting brackets and my 1-hole
mating frame component, I notice there are two holes, parallel in the
horizontal plane.
I give up, under which hole do I add the second hole, forward or aft?

Second issue:
I was also looking at the left hand mounting bracket strengthening kit only
has 3 brackets. There are two large one which look like they go on the rear
bracket and there is one smaller one that looks like it goes on the one next
to the steering rack mount. Shouldn't there be 4?
I think I am going to order a kit for the right hand side as it only has one
strengthening bracket on that side. Might as well make it as strong as
possible.

Anyway, I am getting closer to getting this thing rolling again finally..

If someone could let me know which of the mounting holes is the one I add
the second hole under for the new mounting bracket I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A

From bobannand at hfx.eastlink.ca  Sat Jul 19 14:35:25 2008
From: bobannand at hfx.eastlink.ca (bobannand)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 17:35:25 -0300
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
References: <20080719124123.NHAT21138.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <4882500D.9060701@hfx.eastlink.ca>

Randall
Do you recall any of the details concerning the different bracket and 
bending of the bar. I got my front and rear bars from Summit Racing but 
they are ADDCO bars. There are severe clearance issues at the rear 
between the spring leaves and the rebound bracket.
Bob
TS57799L


Randall wrote:

>No idea if it's still the case, but the rear kit ADDCO supplied did not fit
>my TR3A.  Was setup for a TR4, which has more room between the spring
>perches and the wheels.  But ADDCO promptly sent me some modified brackets,
>and told me how to bend the bar, so the links no longer hit the wheels.
>
>Although not at the top of the list, I will be moving both bars to my
>project TR3, in time.
>
>Randall

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jul 19 15:09:09 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 15:09:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 cracked heads
Message-ID: <000901c8e9e3$b09ac480$6401a8c0@sniffer>

After the two engines have be re-build I have two spare(?) heads with small
repairable(?) cracks in the combustion chamber area.  Are these repairable
and do they have any value beyond the weight at the salvage yard?  I know
one can't be too bad as it was running good at 130psi in that hole before
the re-build.
 
If anyone needs a head to repair they are free to any lister, FOB: Heber, UT
84032
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 19 15:29:11 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 14:29:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <4882500D.9060701@hfx.eastlink.ca>
Message-ID: <20080719212912.QVGK9085.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Do you recall any of the details concerning the different 
> bracket and bending of the bar.

ISTR the original brackets (for attaching the end links to the spring) were
flat, but the replacements they sent had a offset of perhaps 1" to them, so
that the end link could be below the level of the spring.  The high part of
the bracket fastened under the nut of the inner axle U-bolt (below the plate
that traps the spring against the axle), then the lower part of the bracket
had the hole for the end link.

I bent the arms of the bar, to position the links to match the brackets
(when they were vertical).  Don't recall now if it was in or out, but that
was the goal.  Per ADDCO's instructions, I just stuck one end of the bar
under a tire (on another car) and used my weight against the long part of
the bar to bend it.  It's shifted a little from the accident, but hopefully
you can make it out at
http://tinyurl.com/5qhkgu

Randall

From allegrorover at mac.com  Sat Jul 19 15:51:05 2008
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 15:51:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] Des Moines, Iowa
Message-ID: <5D0A57EE-A693-4855-BD46-58DBA806BD3E@mac.com>

List,
It looks like our next stop will be Des Moines, anyone on the list  
from that area?
Just wondering if anyone there would like to get together before VTR.
Jeanne & Tony
allegrorover at mac.com

From sheppjrs at knology.net  Sat Jul 19 16:15:21 2008
From: sheppjrs at knology.net (Richard Sheppard)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 17:15:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Wedge] Fuel (Gas) Cap Seal
References: <BAY104-DAV4DE81C076B6B8DB968B55D2880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002801c8e9ec$ef9dd0b0$6401a8c0@msfc.nasa.gov>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "K YONKER" <yandainc at msn.com>
To: "Flying Wedges" <tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 11:43 AM
Subject: [Wedge] Fuel (Gas) Cap Seal


>I recall this might have been recently discussed,
> however is there any current availability of the rubber
> seal used on the later years, small sized fuel caps?
> I am not referring to the cap's large, spongy seal which
> I presume is/was utilized as a water/moisture barrier. I am
> referring to the seal fitted on the cap that provides
> a seal between the cap and the fill pipe. I can't seem to
> find a part number.....
> 
> TIA for any and all replies.
> 
> Rgds,
> 
> Kirk Yonker
> 1981 Triumph TR8 fi non a/c
> Seattle
> --
> Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests
> to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu

From sheppjrs at knology.net  Sat Jul 19 16:17:06 2008
From: sheppjrs at knology.net (Richard Sheppard)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 17:17:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Wedge] Fuel (Gas) Cap Seal
References: <BAY104-DAV4DE81C076B6B8DB968B55D2880@phx.gbl>
	<48822CC6.60902@neo.rr.com>
Message-ID: <002d01c8e9ed$2dc11a50$6401a8c0@msfc.nasa.gov>

Bill and Kirk,

Let me know if you guys find one.  I need a new seal for my 78 FHC and I 
would also like a new large spongy seal as well.  If we are going to
do one seal we might as well do both of them.

Richard
78 FHC
Huntsville, AL


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill" <triplesn8s at neo.rr.com>
To: "K YONKER" <yandainc at msn.com>
Cc: "Flying Wedges" <tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Wedge] Fuel (Gas) Cap Seal


>I need one too.   If we got a few people together it would be easy to make 
>a run of them.  The material & time isn't much.   The money is in the 
>set-up charge.
>
> K YONKER wrote:
>> I recall this might have been recently discussed,
>> however is there any current availability of the rubber
>> seal used on the later years, small sized fuel caps?
>> I am not referring to the cap's large, spongy seal which
>> I presume is/was utilized as a water/moisture barrier. I am
>> referring to the seal fitted on the cap that provides
>> a seal between the cap and the fill pipe. I can't seem to
>> find a part number.....
>>
>> TIA for any and all replies.
>>
>> Rgds,
>>
>> Kirk Yonker
>> 1981 Triumph TR8 fi non a/c
>> Seattle
>> --
>> Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests
>> to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu
> --
> Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests
> to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu

From bobannand at hfx.eastlink.ca  Sat Jul 19 17:49:29 2008
From: bobannand at hfx.eastlink.ca (bobannand)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 20:49:29 -0300
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
References: <20080719212912.QVGK9085.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <48827D89.7070805@hfx.eastlink.ca>

Thanks Randall  !! Your description and the picture make it crystal clear.
Bob

Randall wrote:

>>Do you recall any of the details concerning the different 
>>bracket and bending of the bar.
>>    
>>
>
>ISTR the original brackets (for attaching the end links to the spring) were
>flat, but the replacements they sent had a offset of perhaps 1" to them, so
>that the end link could be below the level of the spring.  The high part of
>the bracket fastened under the nut of the inner axle U-bolt (below the plate
>that traps the spring against the axle), then the lower part of the bracket
>had the hole for the end link.
>
>I bent the arms of the bar, to position the links to match the brackets
>(when they were vertical).  Don't recall now if it was in or out, but that
>was the goal.  Per ADDCO's instructions, I just stuck one end of the bar
>under a tire (on another car) and used my weight against the long part of
>the bar to bend it.  It's shifted a little from the accident, but hopefully
>you can make it out at
>http://tinyurl.com/5qhkgu
>
>Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 19 17:52:37 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 16:52:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tailpipe hangars
Message-ID: <20080719235236.TACC21138.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

Any suggestions on how to install the rubber "double hole doughnuts" that
support the tailpipe assembly on a Stag?

I've tried putting them on the tailpipe first and offering it to the car,
but that didn't seem to work out; so now I'm trying it the other way round.
After almost an hour of cursing and prying and pinching with large
slip-joint pliers; I managed to get one of them on.  The second one looks
harder ...

Any suggestions would be appreciated.  I'm just about ready to just wrap
them with safety wire and let it go at that ...

Randall

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sat Jul 19 18:30:08 2008
From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 19:30:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A front suspension assy question
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEKBFAAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEKBFAAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <000001c8e9ff$c3d57e20$4b807a60$@com>

Dave,

I went through these exact same steps in the front suspension phase of my
own TR4A restoration.

The TR6-stlyed (two bolt) mounting brackets are placed in the forward holes.
See a pictures here.
(http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/restoration/images/lowerattached2.jpg and
http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/restoration/images/lowerattached1.jpg)

I'm assuming your also reinforcing the chassis mounts for these?

When I went through this exercise, I ordered a full kit from Revington TR
over in the UK.
It came with everything (diff, front suspension) to reinforce the chassis of
the 4A.
It was a quality kit and a great investment.

Got some pics of the reinforcement kit on the chassis here.
(http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/restoration/chassisRenew.asp)

Best of luck!


Cheers,
 
Guy D. Huggins
 
Kennedale, Texas
1965 Triumph TR4A (CTC 63569LO)
http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Connitt
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 3:10 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR4A front suspension assy question

Hi All,
I am getting things staged up to have my TR4A frame welding done and I came
across a puzzling situation. It has been well over a year since I
dis-assembled my front suspension so my memory is kind of fuzzy. As I look
at my new TR6 style 2-stud lower fulcrum mounting brackets and my 1-hole
mating frame component, I notice there are two holes, parallel in the
horizontal plane.
I give up, under which hole do I add the second hole, forward or aft?

Second issue:
I was also looking at the left hand mounting bracket strengthening kit only
has 3 brackets. There are two large one which look like they go on the rear
bracket and there is one smaller one that looks like it goes on the one next
to the steering rack mount. Shouldn't there be 4?
I think I am going to order a kit for the right hand side as it only has one
strengthening bracket on that side. Might as well make it as strong as
possible.

Anyway, I am getting closer to getting this thing rolling again finally..

If someone could let me know which of the mounting holes is the one I add
the second hole under for the new mounting bracket I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as guy at genfiniti.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From rzempel at gmail.com  Sat Jul 19 19:12:19 2008
From: rzempel at gmail.com (Randall Zempel)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 18:12:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 scam alert
Message-ID: <f6438b580807191812sa1f6837x4aad03e948be4e@mail.gmail.com>

There is a 1960 TR3 advertised on Craigslist in Palmsprings.  All the
indications are that this is another scam by by the guy in Las Vegas
who has stolen money advertising Triumphs in the past.  Google the
phone number in the ad, and see how busy this thief is.

If I'm mistaken, I'll gladly apologize, but I'd rather put that thief in prison.

Randall Z

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Jul 19 20:31:47 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 22:31:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] no Buckeyetriumphs TR3?
Message-ID: <01a301c8ea10$c3009230$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
Does the Buckeye Triumph Website refer mostly to the TR250 and TR6?  That is
what I found when I went to
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

What's a sidescreen car to do?,

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 781 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From jercurry at comcast.net  Sat Jul 19 21:23:28 2008
From: jercurry at comcast.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 21:23:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] positive terminal on coil really positive on positive ground
 system?
Message-ID: <A17F2FC745A448569DFFB459884B8B9D@screamer>

Howdy all,

I just got a new coil for my TR3 and I'm the one I am replacing wasn't
marked positive or negative.  I am wonderin if I should hook up the terminal
marked positive to the lead that is grounded to the body or the one that
goes to the distributor since it is positive ground.

thanks,
Jeremiah

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 19 21:25:34 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 20:25:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] no Buckeyetriumphs TR3?
In-Reply-To: <01a301c8ea10$c3009230$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080720032535.UNQZ21138.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Does the Buckeye Triumph Website refer mostly to the TR250 
> and TR6?  That is what I found when I went to 
> http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

Unfortunately, pretty much.  They were fortunate to have a very good tech
writer/engineer for a time, but his primary interest was in the 6-cylinder
Triumphs.  And he has since wandered on to other interests.

> What's a sidescreen car to do?,

You could always write a few of your own ...

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 19 21:36:56 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 20:36:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 scam alert
In-Reply-To: <f6438b580807191812sa1f6837x4aad03e948be4e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20080720033655.UPGS21138.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Google the phone number in the ad, and see how 
> busy this thief is.

He do get around, don't he?  Phone number is in Marksville, LA; but he's got
things for sale in Palm Springs, CA and in Dallas, TX (as well as several
big ticket items in Marksville).

Have you alerted the PS authorities ?

the other Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Jul 19 21:50:00 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 23:50:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] downloadable TR3 Spare Parts Catalog
Message-ID: <01c501c8ea1b$b027bcf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I found the TR3 Spare Parts Catalog available as a PDF and downloadable at
http://www.rucompatible.com/triumph/

It's Great...kinda!

Paul Dorsey

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 781 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 19 21:55:39 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 20:55:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] positive terminal on coil really positive on positive
 ground system?
In-Reply-To: <A17F2FC745A448569DFFB459884B8B9D@screamer>
Message-ID: <20080720035539.LGJI18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I just got a new coil for my TR3 and I'm the one I am 
> replacing wasn't marked positive or negative.

Original coils were marked "CB" for positive and "SW" for negative.

>  I am wonderin 
> if I should hook up the terminal marked positive to the lead 
> that is grounded to the body or the one that goes to the 
> distributor since it is positive ground.

Should be no lead grounded to the body.  Since your car is positive ground,
connect the positive terminal to the distributor.  The negative terminal
gets power from the battery through the switch.

Randall

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Sun Jul 20 03:30:54 2008
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 10:30:54 +0100
Subject: [TR] hunting and popping
Message-ID: <D36AE4CB-56B7-402E-B081-DDFEB47F18DA@tcd.ie>

Hi all, making decent progress on the TR2, with regular start-ups,  
although no actual driving yet. Having a few problems getting even  
running, the engine tends to pop and bang a bit with the odd backfire  
through the carb, once warm it runs better. Any guidance on sequence  
for getting things to run smoothly?
Regards
John

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Jul 20 07:56:20 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 07:56:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] hunting and popping
In-Reply-To: <D36AE4CB-56B7-402E-B081-DDFEB47F18DA@tcd.ie>
References: <D36AE4CB-56B7-402E-B081-DDFEB47F18DA@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <000301c8ea70$64878960$6401a8c0@sniffer>

John,

Round up the usual suspects:
1. I would first check my point gap, before and after starting and warming
up.
2. Timing & advance mechanism
3. Air leaks around the carbs
4. Coil and condenser 
5. Compression and re-check Valve clearance

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Gillis
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 3:31 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] hunting and popping

Hi all, making decent progress on the TR2, with regular start-ups, although
no actual driving yet. Having a few problems getting even running, the
engine tends to pop and bang a bit with the odd backfire through the carb,
once warm it runs better. Any guidance on sequence for getting things to run
smoothly?
Regards
John
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.2/1562 - Release Date: 7/19/2008
2:01 PM

From Greg.Tobin at trizetto.com  Sun Jul 20 09:24:19 2008
From: Greg.Tobin at trizetto.com (Tobin, Greg)
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 09:24:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] team.net email length?
Message-ID: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C411F6@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com>

Hi all-

does anyone know if there is a length of email restriction on the team.net
lists?  I've sent out a note to the list a few times that never makes it out,
and I realized it's probably a two page thing, (I have a GT6 for sale, so it
has a long description with it) and figured it might just be being tossed on
the mailer side.



???
Greg Tobin
Senior Consultant
Architecture & Technology Integration
The TriZetto Group, Inc.
Mobile: (719) 237.9533
China Mobile:  01186.13046658115
Vm: (949) 219.2153
++++++ CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE ++++++
This e-mail and any attachment(s) may contain confidential or privileged
information, including personal
 health or other information which you are required by federal and state laws
to safeguard and protect from
further disclosure and may be subject to contract provisions or other
requirements restricting the use and
disclosure of such information.  If you are not the intended recipient of this
e-mail, or an authorized
employee or agent of the intended recipient who is responsible for delivering
it to the intended  recipient,
you are not authorized to access this e-mail and its attachment(s), so please
delete it and promptly notify
the sender. Do not forward this message or its attachment(s) or retain copies
of it. Incorrect delivery is not a
waiver of any legal protection of the contents of this email.Thank You.

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Jul 20 09:59:59 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 08:59:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] team.net email length?
In-Reply-To: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C411F6@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com>
References: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C411F6@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com>
Message-ID: <000501c8ea81$a9af0700$0202a8c0@newcomputer>

Yes, there is.  That is why it is important to trim the previous message you
may be answering before sending.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Tobin, Greg
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 8:24 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] team.net email length?

Hi all-

does anyone know if there is a length of email restriction on the team.net
lists?  I've sent out a note to the list a few times that never makes it
out,
and I realized it's probably a two page thing, (I have a GT6 for sale, so it
has a long description with it) and figured it might just be being tossed on
the mailer side.

From Greg.Tobin at trizetto.com  Sun Jul 20 10:05:04 2008
From: Greg.Tobin at trizetto.com (Tobin, Greg)
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 10:05:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] team.net email length?
References: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C411F6@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com>
	<000501c8ea81$a9af0700$0202a8c0@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C411F7@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com>

Well that makes sense- I'll just split it in two and that will take care of
it.  Or I could be less wordy I suppose...  ;)

thanks guys!
-greg


________________________________

From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net]
Sent: Sun 7/20/2008 8:59 AM
To: Tobin, Greg; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] team.net email length?



Yes, there is.  That is why it is important to trim the previous message you
may be answering before sending.

Joe C.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 20 10:14:33 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 12:14:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
Message-ID: <cde.30291ae3.35b4be69@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/19/2008 6:45:41 AM Central Daylight Time, DLylis at aol.com 
writes: 
> I 
> have read that rear sway bars on a 3A is a no no because it  makes the car 
> too 
> twichy.  I also read the same (or similar) for the TR6  but I threw caution 
> to the wind and installed one on my 69.  I like the way  it handles.  It is 
> not 
> a daily driver and my opinion might change if it  were, as you definitely 
> need to pay more attention.  

I've run a rear bar on my TR6 for more than 10 years.  The problem with TR6's 
(and TR4 IRS) that is different than TR3's and TR4's is the IRS will change 
camber as the suspension moves through its range.  Back in 1998 when I was 
running the autocross at VTR in Hudson, WI, I discovered that I could steer the 
back end with the throttle - but in a manner that was counter intuitive.  When I 
mashed the gas the back end would squat and the camber would change in the 
positive direction and the rear tires would grab and the front end would plow.  
Releasing the gas would cause the back end to pop up and the back end would 
come around.  I was running Koni shocks at the time when dampened the 
transistions and I was able to keep on top of it but later, after changing back to 
levers (which were never stiff enough) it happened again in a manner that caught me 
by suprise and I nearly lost it.

That was with stock springs.  I have since installed Ted's springs and (yet 
another) tube shock conversion kit which, between the two, keep the suspension 
transitions more controlled and feels much more well mannered.

And a four wheel alignment helps, too.


Dave Massey
57 TR3
71 TR6
80 TR8   

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Jul 20 11:00:54 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 13:00:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <cde.30291ae3.35b4be69@cs.com>
Message-ID: <48833706.27712.2216B4CD@localhost>

On 20 Jul 2008 at 12:14, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> When I mashed the gas the back end would squat and the camber
> would change in the positive direction and the rear tires would
> grab and the front end would plow.  Releasing the gas would
> cause the back end to pop up and the back end would come around.

And therein lies a lesson in geometry and genetics.  A semi-trailing 
arm suspension is somewhat like a swing axle, but with reduced 
effect.  With a swing axle the axis about which the wheel swings with 
suspension travel is longitudinal (mostly) so that the wheel tilts 
inward or outward.  A pure trailing arm has a transverse axis so that 
suspension travel rotates the wheel forward or backward while moving 
it up and down, thereby keeping the camber identical to the roll of 
the car's body.  When the inside end of the trailing arm is moved 
backward, thereby making it "semi-trailing", the wheel takes on some 
of the swing axle's camber behavior.  The purpose is so that as the 
body rolls in a turn the outside wheel, on moving up in the 
suspension travel, will gain less positive camber.  The tradeoff is 
that when the wheel moves down in the suspension, as a rear wheel 
will during decceleration, the camber will go correspondingly more 
positive.

By contrast, with a good unequal length A-arm setup such as is used 
in front the camber will go negative as it rises in the susepnsion, 
be nearly zero (or some chosen value) at normal ride height, but go 
also negative if the wheel moves falls below that position.  When you 
back off the gas you necessarily lose any negative camber you would 
have gained from rear-end squat, but you then gain it back again as 
the car pitches further forward.

The moral of the story, of course, is don't look down your nose at 
the humble swing-axle!  It is the genetic foundation of many a more 
pretentious IRS! :-)


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 20 11:37:03 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 10:37:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <48833706.27712.2216B4CD@localhost>
Message-ID: <20080720173703.SEGW4153.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> The moral of the story, of course, is don't look down your 
> nose at the humble swing-axle! 

Tell that to Ralph Nader!

Randall

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 21 04:21:56 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 03:21:56 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [TR] YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
Message-ID: <13451354.1216635716870.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Worst Triumph Ever!!!

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/car/763095341.html

Best,

Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 21 04:43:31 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 03:43:31 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
Message-ID: <15870213.1216637011795.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

OOPS!!!!!

Let's try again.......

Worst Triumph Ever!!!

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/759355207.html

Cheers,

Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 21 07:25:07 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 13:25:07 +0000
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
In-Reply-To: <15870213.1216637011795.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <15870213.1216637011795.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W6C3CC64FDAC70CCF93833E58A0@phx.gbl>

I'm not sure I would call it the worst but it ranks among them.  Must belong
to a pimp.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Time for vacation? WIN what you need- enter now!
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergiveaway/?ocid=tag_jlyhm

From davidt at opentext.com  Mon Jul 21 08:15:42 2008
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 10:15:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
References: <15870213.1216637011795.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<BAY110-W6C3CC64FDAC70CCF93833E58A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0394ECBE@OTWATMX01.opentext.net>

   Can  you  just imagine, if that v8 is up to snuff, the thing would fly
   really  fast!   Oh maybe  not the velour seats would slow it down.  It
   does  sort  of  remind  of  a  "mini-me"  pimp  caddy  from  the  70's
   though.....

   Back to regular programming now............

   David
   '59 TR3a
   '74 Spitsix

     _________________________________________________________________

   From: triumphs-bounces+davidt=opentext.com at autox.team.net on behalf of
   tom white
   Sent: Mon 7/21/2008 9:25 AM
   To: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
   Cc: spitfires at autoxi.team.net
   Subject: Re: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!

   I'm  not sure I would call it the worst but it ranks among them.  Must
   belong
   to a pimp.
   Best regards,
   Tom
   ______________________________________________ ___________________
   Time for vacation? WIN what you need- enter now!
   http://www .gowindowslive.com/summergiveaway/?ocid=tag_jlyhm
   ____________________ ___________________________
   Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
   This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
   http://www.vtr.org
   Triumphs at autox.t eam.net
   http://autox.team.net/ mailman/listinfo/triumphs
   You are subscribed as davidt at opentext.com
   http://www.team.net/archive

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 21 08:23:42 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 14:23:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
In-Reply-To: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0394ECBE@OTWATMX01.opentext.net>
References: <15870213.1216637011795.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<BAY110-W6C3CC64FDAC70CCF93833E58A0@phx.gbl>
	<98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0394ECBE@OTWATMX01.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W11E442F36F983DA801A4DFE58A0@phx.gbl>

I wonder if the continental kit works as a rear spoiler at high speed.
Certainly it would need more down force since the vinyl top will bubble and
lift the car.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety.
http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_fami
ly_safety_072008

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Mon Jul 21 09:54:02 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 11:54:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR/Ford steering gaiter Parts interchange
Message-ID: <380-2200871211554227@M2W043.mail2web.com>

Listers,
If your like me, and are constantly on the look out for alternate parts,
just in case the ones for our cars become obsolete, I found another match.
While working on my 40 Ford parts hauler I had noticed a badly deteriorated
drivers side steering gaiter.  This truck has a Mustang II front suspension
(as many street rods do) and I happened to have a TR drivers side one
laying about, and to my surprise it fit!
so for what its worth, I found out that the rubber gaiter for the Ford
mustang II manual rack (either side) is the same dimensionally as the
drivers side Spitfire/TR6 gaiter -

Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA

--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology -
http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jul 21 10:38:47 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:38:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
Message-ID: <072120081638.29249.4884BB970004D3120000724122165384969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

> Worst Triumph Ever!!!
> 
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/759355207.html

I like how they moved the bubble to the middle of the hood!

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 21 11:54:44 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 10:54:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 best improvement
In-Reply-To: <4881FDCE.1090209@razzolink.com>
References: <20080719124123.NHAT21138.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<4881FDCE.1090209@razzolink.com>
Message-ID: <B4824B5B90E44B88841F0F4444D94D6D@jdnet.deere.com>

> You almost never hit that point unless you are throwing the 3 deep into
> a curve and powering out.

I've been pondering that statement; as I routinely drove up to the point
where the axle touched the frame just commuting to work (before adding the
sway bars).  Having the tail step out didn't seem like a real good idea,
since I was usually passing someone on the inside at the time.  (We have
several freeway interchanges around here with 2-lane ramps, and I dislike
slowing down for ramps <g>)

I've also ridden in other's TR3s where the rear springs seemed noticeably
stiffer than mine, even though they claimed they were stock.

What may be happening is that the rear springs are rusty where the leaves
make contact, making the spring much stiffer and effectively increasing the
roll rate in the rear.  Almost immediately after getting TS39781LO, I
cleaned, painted and greased the rear springs, which made a very noticeable
difference in ride quality.  But I hadn't really driven it hard before that
point (and my previous TR3A had a TR4 rear axle, making it a poor
comparison).

Anyway, it's just a thought.

Randall

From lherault at bu.edu  Mon Jul 21 12:24:12 2008
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 14:24:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1216663201.26133.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1216663201.26133.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003d01c8eb5e$f994f080$bbd4299b@ad.bu.edu>

And to think, it probably started with the owner making a few
"improvements".

Ron L

From lisa at josephvincelli.com  Mon Jul 21 12:29:51 2008
From: lisa at josephvincelli.com (Lisa Richardson)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 13:29:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW: TR
Message-ID: <633F548136F1437DB02644E2B29A996A@LisaRichardsPC>

Here is a TR3 for sale should anyone be looking......
 
Lisa R. Vincelli

  _____  

From: Ray Overton [mailto:roverton at kc.rr.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 12:15 PM
To: Lisa Richardson
Subject: Re: TR


Lisa, 
Here is a pic.---New wiring,Brakes,clutch-pres.plate&throw out bearing.New
tires orignal top.very light paint,because who ever buys it will prob. want
to go back orignal,which was white.Asking best price over $ 10,000
I will check at the next club meeting and if I get any information I'll let
you know on the overdrive.
Ray
 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Lisa  <mailto:lisa at josephvincelli.com> Richardson 
To: 'Ray Overton' <mailto:roverton at kc.rr.com>  
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 9:19 AM
Subject: RE: TR

Ray,
 
If you have information on your car for sale email it to me and I will send
to my club. Also, is there a list you could send around my overdrive request
to?
 
Lisa

  _____  

From: Ray Overton [mailto:roverton at kc.rr.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 9:39 AM
To: Lisa Richardson
Subject: Re: TR


Hi Lisa,
ThePowell gardens tour was this last week end the next thing coming up here
is the Kans. City all British on Aug.30731.    Do not know of any over
drives for sale. I do have a 60TR3 for sale if you know of anyone wanting
one 1500miles on engine sence rebuild.  
 
Ray Overton
913-894-9326

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Lisa  <mailto:lisa at josephvincelli.com> Richardson 
To: roverton at kc.rr.com 
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 8:02 AM

I keep trying to email someone from this club but everything is not going
thru. Am going to be in the KC area this weekend and want to know about the
Brit event going on and check on members and possible car parts. I am with
the Red River Triumph Club in Dallas and am restoring a 57 TR3 and looking
for some parts. Since I will be in the area and am looking for an overdrive,
it would be a lot easier to drive home with than have mailed. Any available?

 
Thanks for your reply!!
 
Lisa R. Vincelli
cell: 972-345-5051
 
PS What is the address of the Brit event this weekend?!
No virus found in this incoming message.

Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 

Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.3/1564 - Release Date: 7/21/2008
6:42 AM

No virus found in this incoming message.

Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 

Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.3/1564 - Release Date: 7/21/2008
6:42 AM

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IM000422.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IM000417.JPG]

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Jul 21 16:41:05 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 18:41:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] The Ole Lady is Back
Message-ID: <c2c.3ca0b6ff.35b66a81@aol.com>

Yep,
In the 62 TR3B is in the garage.  I will need to go over her before  Ypsi big 
time, but I can do it. Bunch of stuff goofed up for Showroom Stock  Concours. 
I can't give you Guy's any easy point deductions. Hey Randal, as you  
expressed the spacer for the rear springs is now on the passenger  side.  Going to 
check it out there for a few.
Cheers,
Darrell 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Jul 21 18:26:22 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 18:26:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
In-Reply-To: <003d01c8eb5e$f994f080$bbd4299b@ad.bu.edu>
References: <mailman.3.1216663201.26133.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<003d01c8eb5e$f994f080$bbd4299b@ad.bu.edu>
Message-ID: <004601c8eb91$92ba5750$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Hmmm... Do I see a pair of fuzzy dice in there?

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron L
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 12:24 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!

And to think, it probably started with the owner making a few
"improvements".

Ron L
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.3/1565 - Release Date: 7/21/2008
6:36 PM

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 22 09:05:23 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 11:05:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
In-Reply-To: <004601c8eb91$92ba5750$6401a8c0@sniffer>
References: <mailman.3.1216663201.26133.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<003d01c8eb5e$f994f080$bbd4299b@ad.bu.edu>
	<004601c8eb91$92ba5750$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0807220805i265b6b8dxc135313f800116b4@mail.gmail.com>

Giovanni Michelotti would be laughing, crying, rolling over, or some combo
thereof...

On Mon, Jul 21, 2008 at 8:26 PM, wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Hmmm... Do I see a pair of fuzzy dice in there?
>
> Bill B
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
> '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
> And to think, it probably started with the owner making a few
> "improvements".
>
> Ron L
>

-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967

From don at napanet.net  Tue Jul 22 09:55:11 2008
From: don at napanet.net (don at napanet.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 08:55:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
In-Reply-To: <a11dceec0807220805i265b6b8dxc135313f800116b4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.3.1216663201.26133.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<003d01c8eb5e$f994f080$bbd4299b@ad.bu.edu>
	<004601c8eb91$92ba5750$6401a8c0@sniffer>
	<a11dceec0807220805i265b6b8dxc135313f800116b4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1216742111.488602df0fe89@webmail.napanet.net>

A true "Trailer-trash Triumph."

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Tue Jul 22 09:44:57 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 08:44:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
In-Reply-To: <1216742111.488602df0fe89@webmail.napanet.net>
References: <mailman.3.1216663201.26133.triumphs@autox.team.net><003d01c8eb5e$f994f080$bbd4299b@ad.bu.edu><004601c8eb91$92ba5750$6401a8c0@sniffer><a11dceec0807220805i265b6b8dxc135313f800116b4@mail.gmail.com>
	<1216742111.488602df0fe89@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <723F9F6B52FA4DDCB090714851D425D7@GeoPC>

Can't help but feel we're being a bit tough on this guy.

When I think of all the Toyota transmissions, Datsun brake drums, Fiesta 
alternators, Nissan rear ends, Petronix ignitions, Rover V8s, Miata seats, 
Toyota calipers, etc that 'enhance' these cars left and right why begrudge 
some rearrangement of the sheet metal?

Okay, it isn't what I would choose to do -- but neither are the items 
mentioned above.

Geo 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 22 10:17:34 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 09:17:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
In-Reply-To: <723F9F6B52FA4DDCB090714851D425D7@GeoPC>
References: <mailman.3.1216663201.26133.triumphs@autox.team.net><003d01c8eb5e$f994f080$bbd4299b@ad.bu.edu><004601c8eb91$92ba5750$6401a8c0@sniffer><a11dceec0807220805i265b6b8dxc135313f800116b4@mail.gmail.com><1216742111.488602df0fe89@webmail.napanet.net>
	<723F9F6B52FA4DDCB090714851D425D7@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <A1FE2C7AE47742D0831EA9DB02338749@jdnet.deere.com>

> Okay, it isn't what I would choose to do -- but neither are the items
> mentioned above.

The distinction I see is that none of the things you mention alters the
appearance of the car.  Well, the Miata seats do change it somewhat, but
nowhere near as drastically as that poor thing on Craigslist.

IMO, if he simply hadn't called it a "Triumph", the uproar would be much
less.  Judged on its own merits, it's not all that bad (again IMO).

But somehow, the headlights and taillights remind me of those "Why dogs
attack their owners" photos, with a long-suffering family pet dressed up in
gaudy people clothes and only it's eyes, nose and tail still visibly
original.

Randall

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Tue Jul 22 11:26:48 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 12:26:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oops!! - YOW! - Worst Triumph Ever!!!
References: <mailman.3.1216663201.26133.triumphs@autox.team.net><003d01c8eb5e$f994f080$bbd4299b@ad.bu.edu><004601c8eb91$92ba5750$6401a8c0@sniffer><a11dceec0807220805i265b6b8dxc135313f800116b4@mail.gmail.com><1216742111.488602df0fe89@webmail.napanet.net><723F9F6B52FA4DDCB090714851D425D7@GeoPC>
	<A1FE2C7AE47742D0831EA9DB02338749@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <F2D2ACCCB3034CE1BF004B4576914DBA@KARL>

> But somehow, the headlights and taillights remind me of those "Why dogs
> attack their owners" photos, with a long-suffering family pet dressed up 
> in
> gaudy people clothes and only it's eyes, nose and tail still visibly
> original.
>
> Randall


Then maybe the photo should be titled
"Why Triumphs attack their owners"

=8~0 

From triumphcars at gmail.com  Tue Jul 22 11:29:03 2008
From: triumphcars at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 13:29:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] 2 seized TR3 engine in Cincy, OH area for parts
Message-ID: <57aff5cb0807221029q4c18e0d2yf5c939a41da70b45@mail.gmail.com>

Saw this on eBay, Triumph TR3 Engines and Head TR2 TR250 TR4 TR4a TR-3

Item number: 270256517513

2 seized TR3 engine in Cincy, OH area for parts, local pickup only

NFI, Ted

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Jul 22 16:10:52 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 18:10:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards
Message-ID: <cd2.386be47d.35b7b4ec@aol.com>

I will be brief in complaining about the horrible fit!  After I trim  and 
fit, should a sealant be used between the stone guard and the fender to  prevent 
a repeat of the rusting out of the fender behind the stone guard?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Jul 22 18:15:22 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 20:15:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards
In-Reply-To: <cd2.386be47d.35b7b4ec@aol.com>
References: <cd2.386be47d.35b7b4ec@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200807222015.22887.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 22 July 2008 06:10 pm, DLylis at aol.com wrote:
> I will be brief in complaining about the horrible fit!  After I trim  and
> fit, should a sealant be used between the stone guard and the fender to 
> prevent a repeat of the rusting out of the fender behind the stone guard?
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
David,

I have never heard of anyone using any sealant between the stone guards and 
the fender/lower quarter panel.

I restored my 58 in '79 and have had no rust in that area or any other. But I 
only drive in the spring-summer-fall and sand, etc. are not allowed to 
collect anywhere.

Now I have seen rust in those areas but it looked to me that it started from 
the inside of the fender/quarter panel not from trapped moisture between the 
guard and fender.

But that does not mean you cannot try to seal them. I just dont think it is 
necessary if you keep the car clean on the outside and inside and dont drive 
in dirty / sandy / salty conditions. Also garage that car!

This might be too late, but I have seen stone guard sets on ebay from time to 
time. THe aftermarket variety has had only bad press.

Bob

From lisa at josephvincelli.com  Wed Jul 23 07:11:39 2008
From: lisa at josephvincelli.com (Lisa Richardson)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:11:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <60D20B58818F4CEC9868EEE04355CCDB@LisaRichardsPC>

Hello All,
 
I am trying to decide, based off many different points of view, weather to
look for an A Overdrive or J Overdrive for my 57 TR3. OK group, would you go
with the performance of the better part of the J or the A for originality?
Prices seem to be the same although it may be easier to find a J for sure.
 
I don't intend on any racing etc,,,and don't intend on selling, but is it
of less value later with the J and not originial to the car A?
 
Thoughts please and also let me know if you have either of these for sale.
 
Much thanks,
 
Lisa

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Jul 23 07:26:46 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 09:26:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <cd6.34249398.35b88b96@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/23/2008 6:13:15 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
lisa at josephvincelli.com writes:

Hello  All,

I am trying to decide, based off many different points of view,  weather to
look for an A Overdrive or J Overdrive for my 57 TR3. OK group,  would you go
with the performance of the better part of the J or the A for  originality?
Prices seem to be the same although it may be easier to find a  J for sure.

I don't intend on any racing etc,,,and don't intend on  selling, but is it
of less value later with the J and not originial to the  car A?

Thoughts please and also let me know if you have either of these  for sale.

Much  thanks,

Lisa
_______________________________________________


If I were to start from scratch, I would put a Toyota 5 Speed (Herman van  
den Akkers conversion kit) in.
at _www.hvdaconversions.com_ (http://www.hvdaconversions.com)  . 
I would not want to install an OD without having it rebuilt. Years  ago, I 
spent $900 for an od, and another $600 to have it properly rebuilt.
 
Best, Mike Moore 
(Totally biased because I think its a great product and Herman has been my  
close friend for over 20 years)



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 23 07:33:46 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 06:33:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <60D20B58818F4CEC9868EEE04355CCDB@LisaRichardsPC>
Message-ID: <20080723133345.TVOK15817.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I am trying to decide, based off many different points of 
> view, weather to look for an A Overdrive or J Overdrive for 
> my 57 TR3. OK group, would you go with the performance of the 
> better part of the J or the A for originality?

Personally, I can't see any reason to opt for a J, unless it's significantly
cheaper (and even then I'd go for one of Herman's conversions instead).  The
A-type gives you an extra gear and instant shifts, both of which I found
very useful in my 59 TR3A, particularly when driving hard on twisty roads
(which is my favorite way to enjoy the car).  The J shifts quite leisurely
by comparison, making it useful only as a 5th gear, IMO.

The J-type is also more trouble to fit to a TR3; you'll have to fabricate a
new rear mount and some people have had to notch the frame rails for
clearance.  You'll also have to bang out the transmission tunnel to clear
the larger, later gearbox; since you can't fit a J-type to the original TR3
box.

After having driven the A-type in my TR3 for many years, I rather regret
having opted for a J-type in my Stag; even though I feel it's better able to
handle the higher torque of the V8 and also has a slightly higher OD ratio.

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 23 07:46:50 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 13:46:50 +0000
Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards
In-Reply-To: <cd2.386be47d.35b7b4ec@aol.com>
References: <cd2.386be47d.35b7b4ec@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W55859672AF58A4C8F13B7E5840@phx.gbl>

I have a small plastic tipped ignition hammer I used to massage my new stone
guards as I fitted them.  They worked into place very nicely.  I used some
clear RTV to seal the edges to prevent future rust under them.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: DLylis at aol.com
> Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 18:10:52 -0400
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards
>
> I will be brief in complaining about the horrible fit!  After I trim  and
> fit, should a sealant be used between the stone guard and the fender to
prevent
> a repeat of the rusting out of the fender behind the stone guard?
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
>
>
> **************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for
> FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
> (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_mobile_0720
08

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Wed Jul 23 08:09:18 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 07:09:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards
In-Reply-To: <cd2.386be47d.35b7b4ec@aol.com>
References: <cd2.386be47d.35b7b4ec@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F414560F504F4351B8C93AF3B60F9DC7@GeoPC>

The fit on these seem to range from 'not too good' to 'poor' with some 
fiddling required for all.

http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Stoneguards.JPG

The one on the left came from Pennsylvania.  The (old) one on the right came 
from Kansas many years ago.  In the end I went with one from Goleta which 
fit like the one on the right (not too bad) as I saw no easy way of making 
the one on the left match the body.

Another advantage of the Moss flavor is that they sell the individual pieces 
as well as the set.

Geo


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 3:10 PM
Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards


>I will be brief in complaining about the horrible fit! 

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Wed Jul 23 08:31:12 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 07:31:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards
References: <cd2.386be47d.35b7b4ec@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005d01c8ecd0$c183eb60$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

David,

I am in agreement with you the fit of these stone guards are terrible. I just
recently installed mine as well. I had to slowly rework the aluminum to fit
snug against the lower fenders. I almost sent mine back to the supplier, but
my old ones were so bad I couldn't justify putting them back on. They had so
many dings & small abrasions of years of driving I thought the TR3 deserves a
new set.
My original guards when they came off, there was really no rust. Just some
surface discoloration to the paint finish and wear marks into the paint
finish.
I would think if there is bare metal exposed then I would prepare the surface
with some primer & paint and any thing else to repair the rust, but I would
not use any adhesive to panel personally.

Ibsen
59 TR3A
71 TR6

----- Original Message -----
  From: DLylis at aol.com
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 3:10 PM
  Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards


  I will be brief in complaining about the horrible fit!  After I trim  and
  fit, should a sealant be used between the stone guard and the fender to
prevent
  a repeat of the rusting out of the fender behind the stone guard?

  David  Lylis
  69 TR6 CC26160L
  60 TR3A TS74461LO



  **************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for
  FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
  (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Jul 23 08:49:22 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 10:49:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards
Message-ID: <bbe.2d186ae9.35b89ef2@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/23/2008 7:32:29 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
flashtr3 at cox.net writes:

am in  agreement with you the fit of these stone guards are terrible. I  just
recently installed mine as well. I had to slowly rework the aluminum  to fit
snug against the lower fenders. I almost sent mine back to the  supplier, but
my old ones were so bad I couldn't justify putting them back  on. They had so
many dings & small abrasions of years of driving I  thought the TR3 deserves a
new set.



I was at that point also but could never get my "new" guards to fit. I  
finally carefully tapped out the dings, then wet sanded my old guards to  get the 
pits out, then buffed them. 
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From opposumking at verizon.net  Wed Jul 23 09:04:10 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 11:04:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
References: <60D20B58818F4CEC9868EEE04355CCDB@LisaRichardsPC>
Message-ID: <000e01c8ecd5$61f64da0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

The A-type has a pressure accumulator as I recall.  That all by itself would 
give it an advantage over the later J-type.  You can more safely play games 
with allowing the unit to engage in 2nd or even 1st gear.  Both units are 
more than robust enough for the modest power of even a highly modified TR3. 
The A-type is period correct for the car.

The ability to flick a switch in multiple gears seems neat and does have 
some potential performance gains.  But, I'm one of those who's never found 
flipping that switch very convenient, and quite frequently forget to 
disengage the OD when I come to stops.  Accordingly, I'd prefer a mechanical 
5-speed, like the Toyota transmission conversion for driving.  I've had both 
setups, and for driving, much prefer the 5-speed transmission to an electric 
overdrive.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lisa Richardson" <lisa at josephvincelli.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 9:11 AM
Subject: [TR] (no subject)


> Hello All,
>
> I am trying to decide, based off many different points of view, weather to
> look for an A Overdrive or J Overdrive for my 57 TR3. OK group, would you 
> go
> with the performance of the better part of the J or the A for originality?
> Prices seem to be the same although it may be easier to find a J for sure.
>
> I don't intend on any racing etc,,,and don't intend on selling, but is it
> of less value later with the J and not originial to the car A?
>
> Thoughts please and also let me know if you have either of these for sale.
>
> Much thanks,
>
> Lisa

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Jul 23 09:17:18 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 11:17:18 EDT
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <d15.2bdfd298.35b8a57e@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/23/2008 8:06:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
opposumking at verizon.net writes:

The  A-type has a pressure accumulator as I recall.  That all by itself would 
 
give it an advantage over the later J-type.  You can more safely play  games 
with allowing the unit to engage in 2nd or even 1st gear.  Both  units are 
more than robust enough for the modest power of even a highly  modified TR3. 
The A-type is period correct for the car.

The ability  to flick a switch in multiple gears seems neat and does have 
some  potential performance gains.  But, I'm one of those who's never found  
flipping that switch very convenient, and quite frequently forget to  
disengage the OD when I come to stops.  Accordingly, I'd prefer a  mechanical 
5-speed, like the Toyota transmission conversion for  driving.  I've had both 
setups, and for driving, much prefer the  5-speed transmission to an electric 
overdrive


Possum King,
 
I enjoy the A type in my TR3A, I used a Stag gearshift lever with a Stag OD  
switch so my OD switch is where it was originally envisioned by the  factory.
 
When Walter  Mitty is driving around the hills with one hand on the  lever, 
its a simple matter to just flick the 
switch in the knob to rapidly downshift from 2nd OD to 2nd.
 
The problems is that many of these ODs are becoming  seriously worn and 
require extensive remachining etc. to bring them up to  factory spec. Many parts 
are difficult to source with the degree of quality we  would want. Herman began 
his transmission venture originally by rebuilding OD  transmissions and before 
long discovered all the sourcing problems could be  eliminated by using 
Toyota trannys.
 
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 23 09:41:49 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 11:41:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] 2008 VENTURA BRITISH CAR SHOW - July 27th - Oxnard, CA
Message-ID: <9869065.1216827709373.JavaMail.root@mswamui-swiss.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

The Central Coast British Car Club Presents:

THE EIGHTEENTH ANNUAL VENTURA COUNTY BRITISH CAR SHOW

Channel Islands Harbour   *  July 27th, 2008

Join us for a great afternoon at our wonderful waterfront location at the
Channel
Islands Harbour. This year we are honoring the Austin Healey marque, featuring
the
50th anniversary of the Bugeye Sprite.

There will be food, entertainment, vendors, and a swap meet and some of the
finest
British Cars in Southern California.

Oxnard is but a short and lovely drive up the coast from Los Angeles b Come
to Oxnard, enjoy the show, enjoy the ride, be back by supper b SEE YOU
THERE!!!

Website:

www.centralcoastbritishcarclub.com

INFORMATION:
Gary Rice     (805) 644-3290  <gary.rice at worldnet.att.net)
Dave Wellwood (805) 469-7842  <dswellwood at hotmail.com>
Bill Guzman   (805) 484-1528  <BG.GTV6 at verizon.net>

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Wed Jul 23 09:48:08 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 11:48:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <c06.3db90c44.35b8acb8@aol.com>

Lisa:

My unequivocal vote is to choose the A Type over the J.  As Randall has 
mentioned, the A will give instant shifts and since it was an option on all of the 
side screen cars it is more suited to them.  Plus you will enjoy the sheer fun 
of having seven forward speeds!

Call John Esposito with Quantum Mechanics in Monroe, Connecticut 
(203-459-9612) and ask his opinion.  John is the undisputed master for rebuilding of 
British transmissions and overdrives.  I suggest removing your transmission, 
bagging and boxing same then shipping via UPS to John for the installation of the 
OD.  John will ship back complete with switch and wire harness ready for bolt in 
installation.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana


**************
Get fantasy football with free live scoring. 
Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 23 10:05:44 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 12:05:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards
References: <cd2.386be47d.35b7b4ec@aol.com>
	<F414560F504F4351B8C93AF3B60F9DC7@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <008901c8ecdd$f720f940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

I bought my TR3's stone guards from Sports and Classics 10 or 15 years ago. 
They were far superior to the ones sold by the Big Three. With just a bit of 
fiddling, they cannot be told from the originals. Don't know if they still 
have them....

Ed Woods 

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Wed Jul 23 13:48:54 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:48:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards
Message-ID: <c2b.2e09c0e0.35b8e526@aol.com>

I think the key to keeping the tin worm away is providing plenty of drainage.
Sure caulking the guards to the car will help, but make sure that the bottom 
has plenty of holes to let the water and grit out, and inspect them regularly 
for blockage.
Frank Fisher
TR3 TS41366L



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Jul 23 16:09:24 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 22:09:24 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
Message-ID: <072320082209.10713.4887AC14000231AD000029D922165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Ola, all!
I retrofitted my '59 3A restoration with an A overdrive.  That to me is the best improvement on my car, which also includes a Pertrinox, the upgraded rear oil seal, a wood steering wheel, four tandem brakelights, and a front swaybar that I intend to sell on e-bay because--despite the list opinions--I simply don't feel the need for since I don't drive that hard into corners.
Anyway, I bought varous electrical OD switches for the dash, and all of them eventually failed.  Then I ordered an Aftermarket OD switch from one of the Big 3, and now I find I have to wiggle it to make it kick in.
Were the original switches that flimsy?
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire (still without snow!)

From timipurdy at citlink.net  Wed Jul 23 21:44:22 2008
From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 20:44:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Leak
Message-ID: <000e01c8ed3f$90c807d0$01fea8c0@Lahontan>

At the middle of May, I had the differential replaced. Since that time, it
likes to as some would say "mark its territory" with oil spots. I never had
this problem before, so how concerned should I be?  The engine itself has
always enjoyed marking its territory so to speak, but its never been a
problem. Opinions and solutions are more than welcomed.



Tim Purdy

64 Triumph


_______________________________________
No viruses found in this outgoing message
Scanned by iolo AntiVirus 1.5.4.5
http://www.iolo.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jul 23 22:00:49 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 22:00:49 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Leak
In-Reply-To: <000e01c8ed3f$90c807d0$01fea8c0@Lahontan>
References: <000e01c8ed3f$90c807d0$01fea8c0@Lahontan>
Message-ID: <001d01c8ed41$dd037e70$6401a8c0@sniffer>

The question is really, how much territory do you need?  If it is a small
drop or two at the end of the day, you can elect to treat it like you do the
engine, roll with it and check the level to make sure it stays filled and
does not get worse.  You don't say where the leak is, if it is the rear
cover it really is not too hard to throw a new gasket on  but if it is the
front shaft then the job get a little more involved, also you are probably
throwing gear lube all over the underside of the car.

Do you have any re-course to the guy that replace your differential? 


Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
I. Purdy
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 9:44 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Leak

At the middle of May, I had the differential replaced. Since that time, it
likes to as some would say "mark its territory" with oil spots. I never had
this problem before, so how concerned should I be?  The engine itself has
always enjoyed marking its territory so to speak, but its never been a
problem. Opinions and solutions are more than welcomed.



Tim Purdy

64 Triumph


_______________________________________
No viruses found in this outgoing message Scanned by iolo AntiVirus 1.5.4.5
http://www.iolo.com _______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.5/1569 - Release Date: 7/23/2008
1:31 PM

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul 24 06:26:17 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 08:26:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Leak
Message-ID: <bca.2c2112e1.35b9cee9@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/23/2008 10:50:28 PM Central Daylight Time, 
timipurdy at citlink.net writes: 
> At the middle of May, I had the differential replaced. Since that time, it
> likes to as some would say "mark its territory" with oil spots. I never had
> this problem before, so how concerned should I be?  The engine itself has
> always enjoyed marking its territory so to speak, but its never been a
> problem. Opinions and solutions are more than welcomed.
> 
44 year old seals will leak.  I have replaced seals newer than that with 
mixed success.  The pinion seal on my TR6 leaked after a few months of 
replacement.  After several years I dropped the diff and installed a Speedi-Sleeve (R) on 
the pinion and the leaked stopped.  Even with the same seal that had been 
leaking for the previous few years.

So, if your leak is the pinion I suggest a new seal AND a sleeve.

Dave   

From blanoway at shaw.ca  Thu Jul 24 06:45:11 2008
From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 07:45:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Roller Rockers - any experience or advice?
Message-ID: <000701c8ed8b$1c5fda20$c600a8c0@Lanowaylaptop>

Ive been looking at a set of Harland Sharp roller rockers on eBay for my
TR6  with a 1 to 1.5 lift ratio that gives a fast road lift profile.
They apparently slide on with no modifications required.  Has anyone had any
experience with these?  Is installation really that simple?  Is there really
an appreciable gain in power while retaining a smooth idle?  If they are a
good deal, are there suppliers other than an eBay auction for these that you
would recommend?

Thanks so much in advance,

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Thu Jul 24 09:56:19 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 08:56:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
References: <072320082209.10713.4887AC14000231AD000029D922165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004b01c8eda5$d026ce50$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

I purchased a used original overdrive switch when mine failed. That was 20
years ago and still works outstanding. I not familiar with the aftermarket
reproductions as far as quality.

Ibsen
'59 TR3
'71 TR6
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: terryrs at comcast.net
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 3:09 PM
  Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches


  Ola, all!
  I retrofitted my '59 3A restoration with an A overdrive.  That to me is the
best improvement on my car, which also includes a Pertrinox, the upgraded rear
oil seal, a wood steering wheel, four tandem brakelights, and a front swaybar
that I intend to sell on e-bay because--despite the list opinions--I simply
don't feel the need for since I don't drive that hard into corners.
  Anyway, I bought varous electrical OD switches for the dash, and all of them
eventually failed.  Then I ordered an Aftermarket OD switch from one of the
Big 3, and now I find I have to wiggle it to make it kick in.
  Were the original switches that flimsy?
  Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
  New Hampshire (still without snow!)
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 24 10:24:08 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 09:24:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Leak
In-Reply-To: <000e01c8ed3f$90c807d0$01fea8c0@Lahontan>
References: <000e01c8ed3f$90c807d0$01fea8c0@Lahontan>
Message-ID: <0CFFE26751364737852264BF4650BE72@jdnet.deere.com>

> At the middle of May, I had the differential replaced. Since that time, it
> likes to as some would say "mark its territory" with oil spots. I never
> had this problem before, so how concerned should I be?

It's pretty much like the engine; as long as you don't let the diff run dry,
the leak itself won't hurt anything (other than a mess to clean up).  (For a
TR anyway, same does not apply to the Stag and other saloons.)

But a "good" diff should not leak, so you might want to take that up with
whoever you paid to replace it.

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Jul 24 11:15:22 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 13:15:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
Message-ID: <d5a.28015e48.35ba12aa@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/24/2008 9:18:27 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
flashtr3 at cox.net writes:

I  purchased a used original overdrive switch when mine failed. That was  20
years ago and still works outstanding. I not familiar with the  aftermarket
reproductions as far as  quality.

Ibsen



I like the Stag gearshift lever and switch arrangement.
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Thu Jul 24 11:43:20 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 13:43:20 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Vs TR6 clutch set up
Message-ID: <d6a.2c7223af.35ba1938@aol.com>

is the TR3 clutch and pressure plate the same as the TR6?
If I look in the moss catalogue, individually they have different part 
numbers.
But if you buy the all inclusive moss kit they have the same part number.
Are they the same? Similar? better?
thanks
Frank Fisher



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 24 12:37:55 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 11:37:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Vs TR6 clutch set up
In-Reply-To: <d6a.2c7223af.35ba1938@aol.com>
References: <d6a.2c7223af.35ba1938@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B8BE4665D8054122A4E8F80204EA0096@jdnet.deere.com>

> is the TR3 clutch and pressure plate the same as the TR6?

No, not the same at all.  The TR6 clutch can be made to fit a TR3, but
you'll need a different flywheel (or have yours drilled & tapped), and the
TR6-style TOB & carrier.  The gearbox front cover also has to be shortened.

> If I look in the moss catalogue, individually they have different part
> numbers.
> But if you buy the all inclusive moss kit they have the same part number.

I'd guess you are looking at the TR4A kit (593-030), which is the same as
some(?) TR6.  The TR2-4 kit (593-050) is different.

> Are they the same? Similar? better?

The TR2-4 clutch has more surface area and IMO will last longer (virtually
forever) in normal service.  However it's also heavier than the TR4A-6
clutch, so some (including myself) have opted to switch to reduce rotating
inertia.

Other than lighter weight, it's hard to say the TR6 clutch is better in any
way; and in fact clutch problems seem to be MUCH more common on TR6 than on
TR3 ... which IMO is mostly due to ancillary problems rather than the clutch
design itself.  (See for example Brent Kiser's article stating everyone is
selling the *wrong* AP/B&B clutch for the TR6.)

But the stock TR3 clutch would be my choice for long, trouble-free
operation.  I switched mostly because my aluminum flywheel was only drilled
for the TR6 unit (and used a LUK pressure plate to avoid the B&B issues).

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 24 12:42:22 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 11:42:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
In-Reply-To: <d5a.28015e48.35ba12aa@aol.com>
References: <d5a.28015e48.35ba12aa@aol.com>
Message-ID: <39E0BC9032E34D3FAE2C07CC22BC34E5@jdnet.deere.com>

> I like the Stag gearshift lever and switch arrangement.

It's cute, but I'm not all that crazy about it.  Hard to tell by feel
whether the switch is in OD or not; and hard to change it in a hurry,
particularly if one is wearing gloves.  IMO there's something to be said for
that great big toggle switch right under your left hand (and always in the
same place).

The constant flexing of the wires seems to be a problem too.

Just my $.02, YMMV, etc.
Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Jul 24 13:54:55 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 15:54:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
Message-ID: <d0b.2c906dd4.35ba380f@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/24/2008 11:44:05 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

It's  cute, but I'm not all that crazy about it.  Hard to tell by  feel
whether the switch is in OD or not; and hard to change it in a  hurry,
particularly if one is wearing gloves.  IMO there's something  to be said for
that great big toggle switch right under your left hand (and  always in the
same place).

The constant flexing of the wires seems  to be a problem too.

Just my $.02, YMMV,  etc.
Randall



I find it much easier, and my thumb is always at the ready on the knob.The  
OD switch II have read was originally designed to be on the gearshift lever on  
TRs . The early rally cars also had that setup.Wiring has not been a  problem 
for me-its all stock Stag. 
Mike Moore  
 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Jul 24 14:05:22 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 16:05:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
In-Reply-To: <39E0BC9032E34D3FAE2C07CC22BC34E5@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <d5a.28015e48.35ba12aa@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4888A842.9975.44AFD3F@localhost>

On 24 Jul 2008 at 11:42, Randall wrote:

> It's cute, but I'm not all that crazy about it.

Is that the same switch as is used on the shift knob in a Spitfire?  
Best place in the world for it, right at your finger tips when you're 
shifting!

> Hard to tell by feel whether the switch is in OD or not;

That's what they invented tachometers for...
:-)

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Jul 24 14:47:53 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 16:47:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
Message-ID: <d1f.2cefee92.35ba4479@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/24/2008 1:06:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

Is that  the same switch as is used on the shift knob in a Spitfire?  
Best  place in the world for it, right at your finger tips when you're  
shifting!




Yes, and I wholeheartedly agree (as did all the rally drivers!)
Mike Moore



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 24 14:56:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 13:56:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
In-Reply-To: <4888A842.9975.44AFD3F@localhost>
References: <d5a.28015e48.35ba12aa@aol.com> <4888A842.9975.44AFD3F@localhost>
Message-ID: <0DBAF09384A14365BDEE1CB7E46F67F9@jdnet.deere.com>

> Is that the same switch as is used on the shift knob in a Spitfire?

I believe so, later ones anyway.

> Best place in the world for it, right at your finger tips when you're
> shifting!

In a Spit, everything is close to hand <g>  But cruising in a Stag, I have
to move my hand over a foot to reach the OD switch; while in the '3 I
generally don't have to move my hand at all.

> > Hard to tell by feel whether the switch is in OD or not;
> 
> That's what they invented tachometers for...

Ah, I see!  I'll have to get me one o'them.  Plus a speedo that reads closer
to reality might be nice.  The current pair says I'm turning about 3500 rpm
at 110 mph; which maybe isn't quite right even with the 3.45 gears ...

But the tach reading is useless when you're sitting at a light, wondering if
you remembered to turn the OD off.

Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Jul 24 15:35:38 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 22:35:38 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
References: <d5a.28015e48.35ba12aa@aol.com> <4888A842.9975.44AFD3F@localhost>
	<0DBAF09384A14365BDEE1CB7E46F67F9@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <01ef01c8edd5$3759fb40$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Randall wrote:
> But the tach reading is useless when you're sitting at a light, wondering if
> you remembered to turn the OD off.

Then do as I do and turn up the volume on your hearing aid! You'll hear the solenoid clicking - and 
in any case how do you manage to reach a traffic light while still in overdrive :)?

Jonmac 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jul 24 16:19:42 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 22:19:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
Message-ID: <072420082219.25711.4888FFFE000DBCF70000646F22155688849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

My biggest concern, and why I like the original 2 switch, is that I always check whether I've stupidly left the OD on when I'm ready to reverse.  Tach won't help when I'm parked.  ...and as all know, reversing with OD on is ...well...bad....

Terry


-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com> 

> Randall wrote: 
> > But the tach reading is useless when you're sitting at a light, wondering if 
> > you remembered to turn the OD off. 
> 
> Then do as I do and turn up the volume on your hearing aid! You'll hear the 
> solenoid clicking - and 
> in any case how do you manage to reach a traffic light while still in overdrive 
> :)? 
> 
> Jonmac 

From dbh at hamengr.com  Thu Jul 24 16:34:13 2008
From: dbh at hamengr.com (David B Hammond)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 15:34:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] 69TR6 steel rims
References: <d5a.28015e48.35ba12aa@aol.com>
	<4888A842.9975.44AFD3F@localhost><0DBAF09384A14365BDEE1CB7E46F67F9@jdnet.deere.com>
	<01ef01c8edd5$3759fb40$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <156301c8eddd$66a62920$0401a8c0@HOMEOFFICE>

I have a friend who has a set of 69 TR6 steel rims that are excess to his 
needs. If you need some, contact him directly, Ray Tedder (near Redding, Ca) 
ibs at sbcglobal.net 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Jul 24 16:34:13 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 18:34:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
In-Reply-To: <072420082219.25711.4888FFFE000DBCF70000646F22155688849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4888CB25.15507.4D3456E@localhost>

On 24 Jul 2008 at 22:19, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

> ...and as all know, reversing with OD on is
> ...well...bad....

That's what they invented lock-out switches for.  Disconnecting the 
lock-out switch is...well...bad...very bad!

Or is the TR3 to primitive for a lock-out switch?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr6parts at charter.net  Thu Jul 24 16:42:29 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 18:42:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Leak
References: <000e01c8ed3f$90c807d0$01fea8c0@Lahontan>
Message-ID: <001c01c8edde$8e618ee0$8ac27744@alan>

You don't say if your replacement Differential was rebuilt.
Worn seals leak.  Thats why cars mark their spot, it has nothing to do with 
being British.
If it was rebuilt it wasn't done correctly.
I just replaced the seals and bearings in mine.  I had the shafts polished 
so the seal would be good.
The old seals wear a groove in the shaft, so just putting a new seal on 
doesn't mean it won't leak.
The other option to polishing the shaft is to use what is called a speedy 
sleeve, which covers the worn area; which gives the seal a new surface to 
seal to.

Cheers

Al
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim I. Purdy" <timipurdy at citlink.net>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 11:44 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Leak


> At the middle of May, I had the differential replaced. Since that time, it
> likes to as some would say "mark its territory" with oil spots. I never 
> had
> this problem before, so how concerned should I be?  The engine itself has
> always enjoyed marking its territory so to speak, but its never been a
> problem. Opinions and solutions are more than welcomed.
>
>
>
> Tim Purdy
>
> 64 Triumph

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jul 24 16:52:49 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 22:52:49 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
Message-ID: <072420082252.25336.488907C10005123E000062F822165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Ah, Jim!  You've lived in the Northeast long enough, you must know that the TR3 is not "primitive."  Nay nay!  New Hampshire is the "Live Free or Die State" so it's all about advanced civics!  TR3's without lockout switches express the independence of man (and woman) in a free society, no lockout switches telling him/her what to do and when to do it.  Also, no smog control requirements because it's an antique, low DMV registration fees because it's an "old" car, low insurance because it's "old so how fast can it go?"  

Primitive indeed!  Shame shame!  Next thing, I'll be hearing that NH should have an Income Tax!

Terry

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com> 

> On 24 Jul 2008 at 22:19, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: 
> 
> > ...and as all know, reversing with OD on is 
> > ...well...bad.... 
> 
> That's what they invented lock-out switches for. Disconnecting the 
> lock-out switch is...well...bad...very bad! 
> 
> Or is the TR3 to primitive for a lock-out switch? 
> 
> -- 
> Jim Muller 
> jimmuller at rcn.com 
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 24 16:57:05 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 15:57:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
In-Reply-To: <4888CB25.15507.4D3456E@localhost>
References: <072420082219.25711.4888FFFE000DBCF70000646F22155688849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
	<4888CB25.15507.4D3456E@localhost>
Message-ID: <65BC3CD93AE14524959C714A6F363FEB@jdnet.deere.com>

> Or is the TR3 to primitive for a lock-out switch?

It's primitive, but not quite THAT primitive!

Still, it's embarrassing (and not so good for the OD) to catch 2nd gear and
have the OD try to engage immediately.  Mine leaked internally enough that
it wouldn't have pressure up by the end of 1st gear, so it would sort of
hang between 2nd direct and 2nd OD, with the OD clutch slipping.

Randall

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Thu Jul 24 18:09:47 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 20:09:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] Couple of things bugging me
Message-ID: <c29.39628e79.35ba73cb@aol.com>

Hey List,
Going over the Ole lady TR3B and I am bugged by the aluminum finisher from  
the bottom of the rear wings to the tail light.  At the tail light there is  a 
1/4'' gap between the finisher and the tail light base?  At the bottom of  the 
wings there is a right angle so that's how it is going to fit unless it is  
backwards with the gap meant to be at the bottom????
 
Evidently I had some homemade braces for the seat belt anchors within the  
rear wheel wells.  Those were replaced by some large round washers and left  
unpainted.  Rather anal, I'm OK with the round washers but not body color  sort 
of bugs me.  But if the dealers put these on????
 
Thanks for any comments,
Darrell



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 24 18:49:44 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 17:49:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Couple of things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <c29.39628e79.35ba73cb@aol.com>
References: <c29.39628e79.35ba73cb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5F5D44AB8CEA43328189DC4646CB55C7@jdnet.deere.com>

> At the bottom of the
> wings there is a right angle so that's how it is going to fit unless it is
> backwards with the gap meant to be at the bottom????

You're talking about the short bead, P/N 554172, right?  My recollection is
that they are supplied straight, and simply end flush with the bottom of the
wing.  Sounds like yours was installed wrong, and bent to hide the problem.
Or possibly just normal variation meant it was too long, and it slid down
when someone bent the end.

> Rather anal, I'm OK with the round washers but not body color
> sort
> of bugs me.  But if the dealers put these on????

I don't even find them listed as a factory option; and I seriously doubt
that the dealers would bother painting them body color.  But neither is
anyone going to deduct points if you choose to paint them body color <G>

Randall

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 24 18:59:57 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 20:59:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Couple of things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <5F5D44AB8CEA43328189DC4646CB55C7@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <c29.39628e79.35ba73cb@aol.com>
	<5F5D44AB8CEA43328189DC4646CB55C7@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W7C9226AA3FD5E741B2455BA860@phx.gbl>

I WILL. You know what a stickler I am for originality!Marty "anybody seen my
cane" Sukey I don't even find them listed as a factory option; and I seriously
doubt that the dealers would bother painting them body color.  But neither is
anyone going to deduct points if you choose to paint them body color
<G>Randall
_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_messenge
r2_072008

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Jul 24 19:01:15 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 21:01:15 EDT
Subject: [TR] new 3A stone guards
Message-ID: <c0b.3a917ff6.35ba7fdb@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/23/2008 9:09:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ahwahnee at cybertrails.com writes:

In the  end I went with one from Goleta which 
fit like the one on the right (not  too bad) as I saw no easy way of making 
the one on the left match the  body.



Interesting.  when I started this project I assumed that the  rear fenders 
came from two different cars of different years.  My new  guards fit the right 
fender with only a moderate amount of cursing but the left  is like the stone 
gaurd is made for another make of car entirely.  I  guess this is the way it is 
for all? 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Jul 24 19:08:01 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 21:08:01 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
Message-ID: <ca3.383859f8.35ba8171@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/24/2008 5:20:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
terryrs at comcast.net writes:

My  biggest concern, and why I like the original 2 switch, is that I always 
check  whether I've stupidly left the OD on when I'm ready to reverse.  Tach  
won't help when I'm parked.  ...and as all know, reversing with OD on is  
...well...bad....



Isn't that the job of the switch on the tranny cover?  The  circuit is broken 
when the car is not in 2,3,4 or 3,4 (A or J) and the OD  switches off.  Not 
saying you shouldn't switch it off, but should you  forget. . .
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Jul 24 19:13:06 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 21:13:06 EDT
Subject: [TR] 3A hinge gaskets
Message-ID: <c8f.2dbf0b20.35ba82a2@aol.com>

I am spraying paint! Yeah!  So I am also ordering new body hardware  rubbers 
to put it all back together.  The bonnet and boot hinge gaskets are  PAPER?  
My friend said they are actually a "fiber material"   (sure,  aka paper)  Is 
this correct?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Thu Jul 24 19:18:04 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 21:18:04 EDT
Subject: [TR] Couple of things bugging me
Message-ID: <cf0.3be35db4.35ba83cc@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/24/2008 9:00:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:

I WILL.  You know what a stickler I am for originality!Marty "anybody seen my
cane"  Sukey


You See!  Marty our blind Concours Judge can feel that gap and will  massacre 
me for it.  I am going to say that these are simply upside down  and the 
finisher should go under the tail light base, not come up a 1/4'  short. Can 
anyone confirm?
It really looks stupid,
Darrell



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Jul 24 19:18:58 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 21:18:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] 3A hinge gaskets
In-Reply-To: <c8f.2dbf0b20.35ba82a2@aol.com>
References: <c8f.2dbf0b20.35ba82a2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200807242118.58197.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday 24 July 2008 09:13 pm, DLylis at aol.com wrote:
> I am spraying paint! Yeah!  So I am also ordering new body hardware 
> rubbers to put it all back together.  The bonnet and boot hinge gaskets are
>  PAPER? My friend said they are actually a "fiber material"   (sure,  aka
> paper)  Is this correct?
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
David,

Yes they are.

If you have a hinge, you can make your own from thin gasket material.

Bob

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Jul 24 19:22:03 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 19:22:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] 3A hinge gaskets
In-Reply-To: <c8f.2dbf0b20.35ba82a2@aol.com>
References: <c8f.2dbf0b20.35ba82a2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004401c8edf4$d9d558a0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Yep, a cellulose-type fibrous looking material, charcoal grey in color, not
putting any strain on your carbon footprint. 

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
DLylis at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 7:13 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 3A hinge gaskets

I am spraying paint! Yeah!  So I am also ordering new body hardware  rubbers
to put it all back together.  The bonnet and boot hinge gaskets are  PAPER?

My friend said they are actually a "fiber material"   (sure,  aka paper)  Is

this correct?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.5/1571 - Release Date: 7/24/2008
5:42 PM

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Jul 24 19:44:07 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 21:44:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] 3A hinge gaskets
Message-ID: <c26.3d045648.35ba89e7@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/24/2008 8:22:11 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wbeech at flash.net writes:

a  cellulose-type fibrous looking material


Yes, that is what my friend said (aka, paper)
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 24 20:40:31 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 22:40:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Couple of things bugging me
References: <c29.39628e79.35ba73cb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003501c8edff$cf8914d0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

Darrell

TS21130L's original beading below the tail lamps bent flush at the bottom 
and was secured by small screws through the beading into the sheet metal. 
Don't know about later TR3s.

Ed Woods


> Hey List,
> Going over the Ole lady TR3B and I am bugged by the aluminum finisher from
> the bottom of the rear wings to the tail light.  At the tail light there 
> is  a
> 1/4'' gap between the finisher and the tail light base?  At the bottom of 
> the
> wings there is a right angle so that's how it is going to fit unless it is
> backwards with the gap meant to be at the bottom????
>
> Evidently I had some homemade braces for the seat belt anchors within the
> rear wheel wells.  Those were replaced by some large round washers and 
> left
> unpainted.  Rather anal, I'm OK with the round washers but not body color 
> sort
> of bugs me.  But if the dealers put these on????
>
> Thanks for any comments,
> Darrell

From peterara at msn.com  Thu Jul 24 21:26:05 2008
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 20:26:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
Message-ID: <BAY114-DAV2F8465C5D64D62B5876B2C1860@phx.gbl>

I know this has been covered, but I can't find my notes.  So could you folks
refresh me on installing u-joints into the half shafts of my TR6.  I know it
involves sockets and vices (not the alcohol drinking vices), but any
tips/methods would be very appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 24 21:43:59 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 20:43:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3A hinge gaskets
In-Reply-To: <c8f.2dbf0b20.35ba82a2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080725034359.QQLW18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> The bonnet 
> and boot hinge gaskets are  PAPER?  
> My friend said they are actually a "fiber material"   (sure,  
> aka paper)  Is this correct?

Is a shoe box "paper" ?

I'd call it "cardboard", but maybe that's just me.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 24 21:45:27 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 20:45:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Couple of things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W7C9226AA3FD5E741B2455BA860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080725034526.YJQZ9085.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I WILL. You know what a stickler I am for originality!Marty 

You mean they even let you on the Concours field ?
<G>

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Jul 24 21:47:24 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 23:47:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] 3A hinge gaskets
Message-ID: <d08.3d2f48da.35baa6cc@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/24/2008 6:21:01 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:

On  Thursday 24 July 2008 09:13 pm, DLylis at aol.com wrote:
> I am spraying  paint! Yeah!  So I am also ordering new body hardware 
> rubbers to  put it all back together.  The bonnet and boot hinge gaskets  
are
>  PAPER? My friend said they are actually a "fiber  material"   (sure,  aka
> paper)  Is this  correct?
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60  TR3A TS74461LO
>
David,

Yes they are.

If you have a  hinge, you can make your own from thin gasket  material.

Bob



I have had real good luck with making gaskets for going on the body out of  
(thin) leather. It can really be tightened up without breaking the rubber up or 
 tearing the gasket. 
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Thu Jul 24 22:50:41 2008
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 21:50:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Owners of early Long Door TR2's...
Message-ID: <48895BA1.5010103@greenheart.com>

Please e-mail me... 

I've been a TR4A guy since 1977...  but this last year I've acquired an 
early 1954 long door TR2.... and it would help to have some people to 
knock questions off of....

--Justin Wagner
jmwagner@

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Fri Jul 25 03:34:26 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 05:34:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Head Gasket: wellseal or copper spray?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19997.1216947662.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19997.1216947662.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0D50BC26-4076-42F5-95BF-99B178A6E865@comcast.net>

I broke a pushrod recently. Self inflicted - I hadn't tightened  
sufficiently a lock nut on that rod's rocker when adjusting the valves  
a few weeks earlier. I was moving pretty quickly when it went, and the  
noise was startling!
Anyway, I am putting it back together this weekend. I have 'saw marks'  
on the faces of the block and head. I think this was intentional 'back  
in the day' for bite for the gasket, or so I have read.

I have a new copper gasket. Given I have these striations, should I  
use Wellseal, or the copper spray recommended by Gasketworks?

http://www.headgasket.com/preinstall.html

Has anyone used the copper spray successfully on a gasket for a head  
that has an imperfect surface (Its flat, just not smooth)?

Thanks,

Brian

From emanteno at comcast.net  Fri Jul 25 06:17:11 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 12:17:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] Nissan Diff - Exhaust System Question
Message-ID: <072520081217.29135.4889C446000C1A9E000071CF2200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>

I've just installed the Goodparts Nissan diff conversion in my TR6 and went to install a new ANSA exhaust system last night. The diff and the left side resonator want to occupy the same space. If you've done this conversion, I'd appreciate hearing what you have for an exhaust system, and what if any conflicts you had and were able to overcome.

Thanks muchly,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul 25 06:20:28 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 08:20:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] Couple of things bugging me
Message-ID: <bfd.3a562275.35bb1f0c@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/24/2008 10:45:46 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> >I WILL. You know what a stickler I am for originality!Marty 
> 
> You mean they even let you on the Concours field ?
> <G>
> 
Sure.  That's how desparate we are for judges!  ;-)

Seriously, we stuck a tennis ball on the end of his cane and all is well.

Dave   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul 25 06:28:48 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 08:28:48 EDT
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
Message-ID: <ca3.38442a99.35bb2100@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/24/2008 10:27:50 PM Central Daylight Time, 
peterara at msn.com writes: 
> I know this has been covered, but I can't find my notes.  So could you 
> folks
> refresh me on installing u-joints into the half shafts of my TR6.  I know it
> involves sockets and vices (not the alcohol drinking vices), but any
> tips/methods would be very appreciated.
> 
Peter, I've done this with hammers, sockets and a vice, and with sockets and 
an hydraulic press.  The easiest method I've found, however, is take it to a 
shop and let the pro's do it.

Dave   

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Fri Jul 25 06:36:45 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 05:36:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Couple of things bugging me
References: <cf0.3be35db4.35ba83cc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007001c8ee53$19649ea0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

I just recently ordered a new pair of rear fender beads that fit under the
rear tail lights. The after market ones that I received were shorter in length
then my originals ones. The bent tab goes to the bottom of the wing. It is
bent on purpose at approx more then 45 degrees to help support the rear fender
bead. My gap on the new ones are approx. 1/2" too short in length compared to
my old ones.
However when I went mount the new ones, one of the taillights that was mounted
on the fresh restoration, was actually off by a 1/2 ". It sat lower then the
other taillight. So one of the new beads fit like it was supposed to and the
other new bead was a 1/2 too short. I remounted the tail light and was able to
take up the gap. Before, visibly you couldn't noticed it being off with
exception of the gap.

Regards,
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: TR250Driver at aol.com
  To: trmarty at hotmail.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 6:18 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Couple of things bugging me


  In a message dated 7/24/2008 9:00:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
  trmarty at hotmail.com writes:

  I WILL.  You know what a stickler I am for originality!Marty "anybody seen
my
  cane"  Sukey


  You See!  Marty our blind Concours Judge can feel that gap and will
massacre
  me for it.  I am going to say that these are simply upside down  and the
  finisher should go under the tail light base, not come up a 1/4'  short. Can
  anyone confirm?
  It really looks stupid,
  Darrell



  **************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for
  FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
  (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 25 07:10:19 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 13:10:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
In-Reply-To: <39E0BC9032E34D3FAE2C07CC22BC34E5@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <d5a.28015e48.35ba12aa@aol.com>
	<39E0BC9032E34D3FAE2C07CC22BC34E5@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W368223D81316DA5BC5C9B3E5860@phx.gbl>

I recall a weekend in the snow at a cabin with the sports car club I belonged
to in the sixties.  At the end of the weekend we all drove down the mountain
in little flurries of blowing snow.  I passed a car on the two lane road in my
TR3A and club members just behind me followed.  The only problem with that was
there was another car approaching in the opposite direction.  My pass had left
me plenty of time.  The people who followed me would not have made the pass in
time to avoid a head on collision if they had not had an overdrive switch that
gave them an instant up shift as they came even with the slower car.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety.
http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_fami
ly_safety_072008

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Fri Jul 25 07:10:26 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 06:10:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
References: <ca3.38442a99.35bb2100@cs.com>
Message-ID: <009101c8ee57$ce482860$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Peter,

I have done this job countless times especially on the rear TR3 u-joint. I was
constantly having to replace that one over a period of thirty years several
times over that time period, with increasing frequency. As Dave mentioned, I
too decided to let the pros do it for once and they found that the rear yoke
was bad. It was causing the rear u-joints to fail faster then normal. I also
found that the splines on the drive shaft were badly worn, and that they could
not balance the driveshaft for me. I would have to rebuild the complete shaft
if I wanted to eliminate any vibration. They installed splicer components
(very expensive, but high quality) and now the driveshaft is like new, if not
better. No vibration & very smooth in operation.

When I went into the shop they quoted me $65.00 for r&r the u-joints and
balancing the shaft. I was to supply the u-joints. My recommendation for your
TR6 would be to have the pros in your area check your shaft, mount your
u-joints & balance. Save your time for other maint issues, like... did you
stop the oil leaks, and tidy up the engine compartment yet?

Best regards,

Ibsen
'59 TR3
'71 TR6
'79 Spitfire SCCA D/M
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dave1massey at cs.com
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 5:28 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] u-joint installation


  In a message dated 7/24/2008 10:27:50 PM Central Daylight Time,
  peterara at msn.com writes:
  > I know this has been covered, but I can't find my notes.  So could you
  > folks
  > refresh me on installing u-joints into the half shafts of my TR6.  I know
it
  > involves sockets and vices (not the alcohol drinking vices), but any
  > tips/methods would be very appreciated.
  >
  Peter, I've done this with hammers, sockets and a vice, and with sockets and
  an hydraulic press.  The easiest method I've found, however, is take it to a
  shop and let the pro's do it.

  Dave
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Fri Jul 25 07:57:59 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 06:57:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
References: <072420082219.25711.4888FFFE000DBCF70000646F22155688849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net><4888CB25.15507.4D3456E@localhost>
	<65BC3CD93AE14524959C714A6F363FEB@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <004b01c8ee5e$72cd68e0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Randall,

What should the operating pressure be? I understand that if you attached a
gauge to the overdrive unit, you can measure the pressure.
My overdrive works fine in 3rd & 4th and quick to engage, but seems a little
slow to engage at the higher RPMs in second gear.
If the pressure is down, is it the sealing o ring where the gauge goes that
may be leaking off some pressure?

Regards,
Ibsen
'59 TR3
'71TR6
'79 Spit SCCA D/M
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Randall
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 3:57 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches


  > Or is the TR3 to primitive for a lock-out switch?

  It's primitive, but not quite THAT primitive!

  Still, it's embarrassing (and not so good for the OD) to catch 2nd gear and
  have the OD try to engage immediately.  Mine leaked internally enough that
  it wouldn't have pressure up by the end of 1st gear, so it would sort of
  hang between 2nd direct and 2nd OD, with the OD clutch slipping.

  Randall
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Jul 25 08:29:32 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 09:29:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
In-Reply-To: <BAY114-DAV2F8465C5D64D62B5876B2C1860@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY114-DAV2F8465C5D64D62B5876B2C1860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080725092754.038f2d40@nosimport.com>

John Twist of University Motors Ltd fame, has a video (among many) on 
You Tube doing u-joints on an MGB (can I say that here?:)

         Peter C.
==
At 10:26 PM 7/24/2008, Peter Arakelian wrote:
>I know this has been covered, but I can't find my notes.  So could you folks
>refresh me on installing u-joints into the half shafts of my TR6.  I know it
>involves sockets and vices (not the alcohol drinking vices), but any
>tips/methods would be very appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance
>Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jul 25 09:01:03 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 11:01:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Nissan Diff - Exhaust System Question
In-Reply-To: <072520081217.29135.4889C446000C1A9E000071CF2200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <072520081217.29135.4889C446000C1A9E000071CF2200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000b01c8ee67$4483ce30$210110ac@bobspc>

Irv,
I've got the stock steel exhaust with no interference problems.  

So....when you going to get to drive that car? You must be getting real
close. 

Bob


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of emanteno at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 8:17 AM
To: TRiumphs; 6Pack
Subject: [6pack] Nissan Diff - Exhaust System Question

I've just installed the Goodparts Nissan diff conversion in my TR6 and went
to install a new ANSA exhaust system last night. The diff and the left side
resonator want to occupy the same space. If you've done this conversion, I'd
appreciate hearing what you have for an exhaust system, and what if any
conflicts you had and were able to overcome.

Thanks muchly,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.5/1571 - Release Date: 7/24/2008
5:42 PM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jul 25 09:03:18 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 11:03:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
In-Reply-To: <BAY114-DAV2F8465C5D64D62B5876B2C1860@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY114-DAV2F8465C5D64D62B5876B2C1860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000c01c8ee67$94733700$210110ac@bobspc>

Peter,
After struggling to remove the old u-joints with hammers, sockets and a
vise........I left the installation up to a local shop. Some guys are much
better at this then me and I know my limitations, so I'll pay the pros when
necessary. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Peter Arakelian
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 11:26 PM
To: Listers
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation

I know this has been covered, but I can't find my notes.  So could you folks
refresh me on installing u-joints into the half shafts of my TR6.  I know it
involves sockets and vices (not the alcohol drinking vices), but any
tips/methods would be very appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.5/1571 - Release Date: 7/24/2008
5:42 PM

From L1J1S at aol.com  Fri Jul 25 10:07:15 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 12:07:15 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3-a
Message-ID: <c25.3f19eacd.35bb5433@aol.com>

To the list, what is the correct jack for a tr3-a with commission number  
77317? larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Fri Jul 25 10:26:26 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 09:26:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
References: <072420082219.25711.4888FFFE000DBCF70000646F22155688849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net><4888CB25.15507.4D3456E@localhost>
	<65BC3CD93AE14524959C714A6F363FEB@jdnet.deere.com>
	<004b01c8ee5e$72cd68e0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
	<005d01c8ee6a$291efd60$a23e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <001701c8ee73$2f6cd350$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Hi Fred,

Are you talking about the alignment of the operating solenoid using the a
drill bit into the side hole for adjustment?

Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: FRED E THOMAS
  To: Ibsen Dow
  Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 8:21 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches


  In my opinion your O/D needs a simple adjustment, in the Moss U/K parts
  catalodge it is written the easy way to do this., you'll be amazed at the
  results. "FT"
  ===========================================================================
================================
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: "Ibsen Dow" <flashtr3 at cox.net>
  To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 9:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches


  > Randall,
  >
  > What should the operating pressure be? I understand that if you attached
a
  > gauge to the overdrive unit, you can measure the pressure.
  > My overdrive works fine in 3rd & 4th and quick to engage, but seems a
  > little
  > slow to engage at the higher RPMs in second gear.
  > If the pressure is down, is it the sealing o ring where the gauge goes
  > that
  > may be leaking off some pressure?
  >
  > Regards,
  > Ibsen
  > '59 TR3
  > '71TR6
  > '79 Spit SCCA D/M
  >  ----- Original Message -----
  >  From: Randall
  >  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  >  Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 3:57 PM
  >  Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
  >
  >
  >  > Or is the TR3 to primitive for a lock-out switch?
  >
  >  It's primitive, but not quite THAT primitive!
  >
  >  Still, it's embarrassing (and not so good for the OD) to catch 2nd gear
  > and
  >  have the OD try to engage immediately.  Mine leaked internally enough
  > that
  >  it wouldn't have pressure up by the end of 1st gear, so it would sort of
  >  hang between 2nd direct and 2nd OD, with the OD clutch slipping.
  >
  >  Randall
  >  _______________________________________________
  >
  >  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  >  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  >  http://www.vtr.org
  >
  >
  >  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  >  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
  >
  >  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net
  >
  >  http://www.team.net/archive
  > _______________________________________________
  >
  > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  > http://www.vtr.org
  >
  >
  > Triumphs at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
  >
  > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
  >
  > http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Jul 25 10:41:04 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 12:41:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8ee67$94733700$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <BAY114-DAV2F8465C5D64D62B5876B2C1860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4889C9E0.10308.8B65218@localhost>

On 25 Jul 2008 at 11:03, Bob Danielson wrote:

> After struggling to remove the old u-joints with hammers, sockets and a
> vise........I left the installation up to a local shop. Some guys are much
> better at this then me and I know my limitations, so I'll pay the pros when
> necessary. 

What he said.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 25 11:41:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 10:41:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
In-Reply-To: <004b01c8ee5e$72cd68e0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
References: <072420082219.25711.4888FFFE000DBCF70000646F22155688849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net><4888CB25.15507.4D3456E@localhost>
	<65BC3CD93AE14524959C714A6F363FEB@jdnet.deere.com>
	<004b01c8ee5e$72cd68e0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
Message-ID: <8E95824E613449948586C5E61307A8F7@jdnet.deere.com>

> What should the operating pressure be?

It varies with which OD you have, and which engine it's behind.
Unfortunately I can't lay my hands on the factory spec for a TR3A offhand,
but several sources give it as 350-370 psi so that's probably correct.  The
early TR2 unit (OD only on 3-4) took more pressure (420-445) as it had
smaller operating pistons, and the TR6 unit took more because of the
increased torque it had to handle (450) and its smaller accumulator.

> I understand that if you attached a
> gauge to the overdrive unit, you can measure the pressure.

True, but it takes a special adapter.  It's also best to use a liquid filled
gauge, as the pressure pulsations caused by the pump will eventually damage
a standard gauge.  There's a fellow that sells the gauge and adapter on eBay
occasionally, but I don't recall his name offhand.  Be sure you get the
A-type version, as the J-type is different.

> If the pressure is down, is it the sealing o ring where the gauge goes
> that may be leaking off some pressure?

I'm not sure what O-ring you are talking about here, Ibsen.  There is a flat
fiber washer where the gauge attaches (to an A-type), but if that were
leaking, you would see the oil running out from it.

The most common leaks that cause low pressure in 2nd gear, IMO, are the pump
non-return valve; and the piston rings on the accumulator and operating
pistons (which were metal on the original TR3A units).  But there are other
possibilities, like the ball in the operating valve not seating into the
casting with the unit disengaged.

There was an article written by "Mr. Finespanner" (Del Border) about the
non-return valve; which you might still be able to find on the web.  However
it seems to be missing from its original repository on the Team.Net server.
If you can't find it, let me know and I'll email you a copy.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 25 11:57:34 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 10:57:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8ee67$94733700$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <BAY114-DAV2F8465C5D64D62B5876B2C1860@phx.gbl>
	<000c01c8ee67$94733700$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <08C3EA38B6A54231B3E25B6AD4B67433@jdnet.deere.com>

> After struggling to remove the old u-joints with hammers, sockets and a
> vise........

I must admit, I find it easier with the hydraulic press.

But I saw John Kipping do it with nothing but a BFH, and he sure made it
look easy <G>

Randall

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Jul 25 12:24:03 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 14:24:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
References: <BAY114-DAV2F8465C5D64D62B5876B2C1860@phx.gbl>
	<000c01c8ee67$94733700$210110ac@bobspc>
	<08C3EA38B6A54231B3E25B6AD4B67433@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c8ee83$9de7a6b0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

Interesting.  When I've watched John Kipping do it he uses a small hammer. 
He's not one for the BFH, and is pretty vocal to that end.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Listers'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] u-joint installation


>> After struggling to remove the old u-joints with hammers, sockets and a
>> vise........
>
> I must admit, I find it easier with the hydraulic press.
>
> But I saw John Kipping do it with nothing but a BFH, and he sure made it
> look easy <G>
>
> Randall

From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca  Fri Jul 25 12:35:59 2008
From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 12:35:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] (no lbc content) Wish I could think this quickly...
Message-ID: <488A1D0F.50008@shaw.ca>

Wish I could think this quickly...


A man boarded a plane with 6 kids.

After they got settled in their seats a woman sitting across the aisle 
from him leaned over to him and         asked, 'Are all of those kids 
yours?'

He replied, 'No. I work for a condom company. These are customer 
complaints.'

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Fri Jul 25 12:38:13 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 14:38:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] re; overdrive pressure gauge
Message-ID: <c3d.39a34250.35bb7795@aol.com>

He also has this OD gauge for sale on the VTR classified site..
-----
It's also best to use a liquid filled gauge, as the pressure pulsations
caused by the pump will eventually damage a standard gauge.  There's a fellow t
hat
sells the gauge and adapter on eBay occasionally, but I don't recall his name
offhand. 
**************
Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up
for FanHouse Fantasy Football today.

(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 25 13:42:22 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 12:42:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8ee83$9de7a6b0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
References: <BAY114-DAV2F8465C5D64D62B5876B2C1860@phx.gbl><000c01c8ee67$94733700$210110ac@bobspc><08C3EA38B6A54231B3E25B6AD4B67433@jdnet.deere.com>
	<000c01c8ee83$9de7a6b0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <BFB9350F42CA4FCA8CF9618DDF53C492@jdnet.deere.com>

> When I've watched John Kipping do it he uses a small hammer.
> He's not one for the BFH, and is pretty vocal to that end.

Well, to be honest, I didn't weigh it.  To me, anything over 18 ounces is
"big" and the one John used (you saw the same demonstration as I recall)
looked to be about 32 ounces to me.  But I could be mistaken on that point.

Randall

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Fri Jul 25 15:20:42 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 14:20:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
References: <072420082219.25711.4888FFFE000DBCF70000646F22155688849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net><4888CB25.15507.4D3456E@localhost><65BC3CD93AE14524959C714A6F363FEB@jdnet.deere.com><004b01c8ee5e$72cd68e0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
	<8E95824E613449948586C5E61307A8F7@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <001a01c8ee9c$4bad8130$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Thanks Randall for the insight...I suspect that there may be dirt on the ball
seat or ball not seating properly. That seems like the next step, since I have
already re-aligned the solenoid plunger assy and it seems to be an easy way of
checking.

Regards,
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Randall
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 10:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches


  > What should the operating pressure be?

  It varies with which OD you have, and which engine it's behind.
  Unfortunately I can't lay my hands on the factory spec for a TR3A offhand,
  but several sources give it as 350-370 psi so that's probably correct.  The
  early TR2 unit (OD only on 3-4) took more pressure (420-445) as it had
  smaller operating pistons, and the TR6 unit took more because of the
  increased torque it had to handle (450) and its smaller accumulator.

  > I understand that if you attached a
  > gauge to the overdrive unit, you can measure the pressure.

  True, but it takes a special adapter.  It's also best to use a liquid
filled
  gauge, as the pressure pulsations caused by the pump will eventually damage
  a standard gauge.  There's a fellow that sells the gauge and adapter on
eBay
  occasionally, but I don't recall his name offhand.  Be sure you get the
  A-type version, as the J-type is different.

  > If the pressure is down, is it the sealing o ring where the gauge goes
  > that may be leaking off some pressure?

  I'm not sure what O-ring you are talking about here, Ibsen.  There is a
flat
  fiber washer where the gauge attaches (to an A-type), but if that were
  leaking, you would see the oil running out from it.

  The most common leaks that cause low pressure in 2nd gear, IMO, are the
pump
  non-return valve; and the piston rings on the accumulator and operating
  pistons (which were metal on the original TR3A units).  But there are other
  possibilities, like the ball in the operating valve not seating into the
  casting with the unit disengaged.

  There was an article written by "Mr. Finespanner" (Del Border) about the
  non-return valve; which you might still be able to find on the web.
However
  it seems to be missing from its original repository on the Team.Net server.
  If you can't find it, let me know and I'll email you a copy.

  Randall
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Jul 25 16:19:19 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 22:19:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
Message-ID: <072520082219.6717.488A5167000261B100001A3D22165279669C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

>>My biggest concern, and why I like the original 2 switch, is that I always check whether I've stupidly left >>the OD on when I'm ready to reverse.  Tach won't help when I'm parked.  ...and as all know, reversing >>with OD on is ...well...bad....


>Isn't that the job of the switch on the tranny cover?  The circuit is broken when >the car is not in 2,3,4 or 3,4 (A or J) and the OD switches off.  Not saying you >shouldn't switch it off, but should you forget. . .


Uh oh.  Am I guilty of spreading false information?  I thought I read here on the List that going into reverse with OD switched on would evenutally ruin the OD.  Do I have that wrong?

Terry

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 25 16:31:21 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 15:31:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switches
In-Reply-To: <072520082219.6717.488A5167000261B100001A3D22165279669C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <072520082219.6717.488A5167000261B100001A3D22165279669C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C38E7408B7864B639B2369E09F431704@jdnet.deere.com>

> Uh oh.  Am I guilty of spreading false information?  I thought I read here
> on the List that going into reverse with OD switched on would evenutally
> ruin the OD.  Do I have that wrong?

Well, kinda.  What's bad is backing up with the OD engaged.  (Think
irresistible force meeting an immovable object inside an aluminum housing.)
This happens fairly quickly, if the unit has enough pressure stored to
generate the immovable force.

Normally the lockout switches keep it from engaging in reverse (or first
etc).  So leaving the dash switch flipped on should not cause the problem,
IF the lockout switches do their job.  But if, for example, the wire to the
lockout switches gets shorted to ground ...

Randall

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 25 16:55:34 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 18:55:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Seals
Message-ID: <001401c8eea9$8c53e050$a23e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

A short time back someone posted where one could purchase the =="O" ring
gaskets"== for the instruments, I filed the info and have now forgot where it
is, any help appreciated on this.  "FT"

From cak at dimebank.com  Fri Jul 25 17:00:40 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 16:00:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Shop-talk] Seals
In-Reply-To: <001401c8eea9$8c53e050$a23e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <001401c8eea9$8c53e050$a23e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <488A5B18.9030805@dimebank.com>

FRED E THOMAS wrote:
> A short time back someone posted where one could purchase the =="O" ring
> gaskets"== for the instruments, I filed the info and have now forgot where it
> is, any help appreciated on this.  "FT"

The Monster List knows :-)

http://www.dimebank.com/monster/burst/00566.html

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Fri Jul 25 17:16:14 2008
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 16:16:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3A hinge gaskets
References: <d08.3d2f48da.35baa6cc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002b01c8eeac$6fd5b040$0101a8c0@paulal73q2sjay>

I took the advice of someone on the list and made my hinge gaskets out of 
one gallon plastic milk containers.  I like the fact that they are water 
proof.  Plus I got to recycle, reducing my carbon footprint, and they are, 
like me, cheap!

paulw
Torrance, CA
1956 TR3
1964 TR4

----- Original Message ----- 
> On  Thursday 24 July 2008 09:13 pm, DLylis at aol.com wrote:
>> I am spraying  paint! Yeah!  So I am also ordering new body hardware
>> rubbers to  put it all back together.  The bonnet and boot hinge gaskets
> are
>>  PAPER? My friend said they are actually a "fiber  material"   (sure, 
>> aka
>> paper)  Is this  correct?
>>
>> David  Lylis
>> 69 TR6 CC26160L
>> 60  TR3A TS74461LO
>>
> David,
>
> Yes they are.
>
> If you have a  hinge, you can make your own from thin gasket  material.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> I have had real good luck with making gaskets for going on the body out of
> (thin) leather. It can really be tightened up without breaking the rubber 
> up or
> tearing the gasket.
> Mike Moore

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Jul 25 20:39:01 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 20:39:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] Seals
In-Reply-To: <001401c8eea9$8c53e050$a23e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <001401c8eea9$8c53e050$a23e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <002701c8eec8$c4b6e6d0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

West Valley Auto Electronics
http://www.westvalleyautoelectronics.com/about.html 

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FRED
E THOMAS
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 4:56 PM
To: Shop-Talk Mailing List; triumphs
Subject: [TR] Seals

A short time back someone posted where one could purchase the =="O" ring
gaskets"== for the instruments, I filed the info and have now forgot where
it is, any help appreciated on this.  "FT"
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.6/1574 - Release Date: 7/25/2008
4:27 PM

From peterara at msn.com  Fri Jul 25 22:36:13 2008
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 21:36:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
Message-ID: <BAY114-DAV9E79E7301EB2B4082CBC6C1810@phx.gbl>

A hearty thanks to all that responded both on and off list.
My replacement hub arrived early enough on Friday that I was able to take it
to a shop and have u-joints installed.  My very much preferred  method.  the
cost is well worth it.
Half shafts came out and went back in very smoothly this time.  I have had
times where I just couldn't get the yokes in quite the right spot to pull
through and have cursed the TR engineers who could have designed a little more
clearance.
But alls well now.  Will be at the car show in Ventura on Sunday.
Again thanks to all - I will keep my notes this time.

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sat Jul 26 05:28:18 2008
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 07:28:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
In-Reply-To: <08C3EA38B6A54231B3E25B6AD4B67433@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <BAY114-DAV2F8465C5D64D62B5876B2C1860@phx.gbl>
	<000c01c8ee67$94733700$210110ac@bobspc>
	<08C3EA38B6A54231B3E25B6AD4B67433@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <488B0A52.5030002@frontiernet.net>

I just did this myself with an ordinary ball peen hammer. No sweat. I'm 
not sure why I didn't do it when I originally restored the car, but the 
40 year old joints were all well & truly shot.

George Richardson



Randall wrote:
>> After struggling to remove the old u-joints with hammers, sockets and a
>> vise........
>>     
>
> I must admit, I find it easier with the hydraulic press.
>
> But I saw John Kipping do it with nothing but a BFH, and he sure made it
> look easy <G>
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as gprtech at frontiernet.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Jul 26 05:41:30 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 11:41:30 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oxygen Sensor
Message-ID: <072620081141.16096.488B0D6A0001555A00003EE022155517249C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Shopping EBAY for a used TR3A OD switch and a working fuel guage that works with the replacement sending units (couldn't locate one, so if anyone has one for sale contact me off list?), I ran across this:

OXYGEN SENSOR triumph TR3A 60-61 1960 1961 part auto  
Item number: 230274790698

So question:  How the heck would an oxygen sensor work in an old Triumph?  Admittedly, I know next to nothing about these new-fangled gadgeted-up tinmobiles.  But doesn't the oxygen sensor send signals to some doohickey that calibrates fuel mixture on a moment to moment basis????  And ain't there no such doohickey in a TR3A???

Terry, '59 TR3A (TS 58667)
New Hampshire

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Jul 26 06:33:19 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 08:33:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 question
Message-ID: <200807260833.20186.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

I was down at the local garage to get my 4 inspected and he has a 75 TR6 that 
is for sale. THe car is not too bad, needing some body work etc.

It got me thinking.

Anyway the mechanic says it has a problem with the smog system causing it to 
run rich.

As best I can describe it there are hoses connected to the pcv, carbs and what 
looks like a carbon cylinder near the radiator. He has not been able to fix 
the problem.

Is this a big problem? Can all these hoses be removed?

Does something need to be replaced and if so are the parts available?

As you might have guessed I have no experience with smog equipment. My 
experience is with the "normal" engines, TR3A and 4.

Also there is a draw on the battery when everything is turned off. Not sure 
how to go about that but maybe a multi meter etc and help from the list.

Looks like the car can get a frame on restoration, since the frame is very 
solid, to get it into decent shape. I didnt look at the floors but the 
exterior body seemed to be rust free.

Current color is a very bright yellow. Not my cup of tea. I would suggest 
maybe a BRG or Red. What say the list?

My current cars are a pale yellow 3A and a spa white 4. What should that 3rd 
Triumph be?

Ever since I restored the 63 TR4 everyone has asked me when I will be adding a 
third Triumph to the garage since I have 3 daughters. Well this may be a good 
opportunity.

Can an old guy learn what makes a 75 TR6 tick? Or am I just looking for 
trouble?

Thanks,

Bob

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Jul 26 07:18:35 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 13:18:35 +0000
Subject: [TR] (no lbc content) Wish I could think this quickly...
In-Reply-To: <488A1D0F.50008@shaw.ca>
References: <488A1D0F.50008@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W15A1BC91EAB7CC94C52EBAE5810@phx.gbl>

Once boarding a plane last year the greeting cabin attendant asked me which
side of the plane I was on.  I took a short look around and replied, "I am on
the inside."

Best regards,
Tom

> Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 12:35:59 -0600
> From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] (no lbc content) Wish I could think this quickly...
>
> Wish I could think this quickly...
>
>
> A man boarded a plane with 6 kids.
>
> After they got settled in their seats a woman sitting across the aisle
> from him leaned over to him and         asked, 'Are all of those kids
> yours?'
>
> He replied, 'No. I work for a condom company. These are customer
> complaints.'
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety.
http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_fami
ly_safety_072008

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jul 26 07:27:50 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 09:27:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] u-joint installation
Message-ID: <d04.39b92041.35bc8056@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/26/2008 6:36:49 AM Central Daylight Time, 
gprtech at frontiernet.net writes: 
> I just did this myself with an ordinary ball peen hammer. No sweat. I'm 
> not sure why I didn't do it when I originally restored the car, but the 
> 40 year old joints were all well &truly shot.
> 
Sometimes you get lucky.  U-joints vary widely in how difficult they are to 
take apart.  Sometimes they are so tight the yoke breaks before the cup lets 
go.  (It happens)

Dave   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jul 26 07:33:16 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 09:33:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oxygen Sensor
Message-ID: <cd3.3accb3b8.35bc819c@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/26/2008 6:51:44 AM Central Daylight Time, 
terryrs at comcast.net writes: 
> OXYGEN SENSOR triumph TR3A 60-61 1960 1961 part auto  
> Item number: 230274790698
> 
> So question:  How the heck would an oxygen sensor work in an old Triumph?  
> Admittedly, I know next to nothing about these new-fangled gadgeted-up 
> tinmobiles.  But doesn't the oxygen sensor send signals to some doohickey that 
> calibrates fuel mixture on a moment to moment basis????  And ain't there no such 
> doohickey in a TR3A???
> 
I know of at least one TR3 with an oxygen sensor.  He uses it to check carb 
adjustments.

Seriously, it is a typical, generic aftermarket oxygen sensor.  These things 
are getting affordable and are useful for checking carburettor performance.  
The most inconvenient part is fitting your exhaust system with a bung for 
sensor installation.

Dave   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jul 26 07:40:33 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 09:40:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 question
Message-ID: <d0b.2cc8f617.35bc8351@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/26/2008 7:37:37 AM Central Daylight Time, 
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: 
> Anyway the mechanic says it has a problem with the smog system causing it 
> to 
> run rich.
> 
> As best I can describe it there are hoses connected to the pcv, carbs and 
> what 
> looks like a carbon cylinder near the radiator. He has not been able to fix 
> the problem.
> 
> Is this a big problem? Can all these hoses be removed?
> 
> Does something need to be replaced and if so are the parts available?
> 
> As you might have guessed I have no experience with smog equipment. My 
> experience is with the "normal" engines, TR3A and 4.
> 
> Also there is a draw on the battery when everything is turned off. Not sure 
> how to go about that but maybe a multi meter etc and help from the list.
> 
The most common cause of rich running is carb adjustment.  A 
saturated/clogged charcoal canister can cause problems but rich running is one of the more 
minor ones.

You can remove all that stuff but it is all integral to the crankcase 
ventilation system and removing that is detrimental to engine longevity.  I suggest 
finding another canister and replacing all hoses and get someone who knows 
Strombergs to adjust the carbs.  Do a full tuneup.  It'll run fine.  


Dave Massey
57 TR3
71 TR6
80 TR8   

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 26 08:35:15 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 07:35:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 question
In-Reply-To: <200807260833.20186.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <20080726143515.TCIH15817.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Anyway the mechanic says it has a problem with the smog 
> system causing it to run rich.

Betcha nickel he's wrong.  Some other problem affecting mixture and he
doesn't know what, so he blames the smog system.  Could be a fuel-soaked
canister as Dave says, but that would say there was some other problem
allowing fuel to get into it in the first place.  And once the source is
eliminated, the canister will dry out on it's own; if the purge line is
hooked up properly.

> Does something need to be replaced and if so are the parts available?

I believe pretty much everything is readily available; either new
reproductions, good used, or suitable substitutes.

> Also there is a draw on the battery when everything is turned 
> off. Not sure how to go about that but maybe a multi meter 
> etc and help from the list.

Yup, should be pretty easy.  First place I would look is the anti-runon
solenoid hanging under the carbon canister.  It is supposed to get power
only when the key is off, and then only be grounded when the engine has oil
pressure.

> My current cars are a pale yellow 3A and a spa white 4. What 
> should that 3rd Triumph be?

How about a nice blue, like Wedgwood or maybe French ?

> Can an old guy learn what makes a 75 TR6 tick? 

Yes, and fix that, too!
<G>

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 26 08:40:00 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 07:40:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oxygen Sensor
In-Reply-To: <072620081141.16096.488B0D6A0001555A00003EE022155517249C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080726144000.YDUK14026.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> And ain't there no 
> such doohickey in a TR3A???

Ho hum, another eBay seller that lists a whole raft of cars that his part
MIGHT fit; without any CLUE as to what it really fits.  They seem to be
really prevalent these days, as eBay doesn't seem to care until they get
sued for abetting fraud.  And now that they've won their lawsuit over fake
Tiffany jewelry, likely they'll care even less.

My favorite is still the disc brake rotors for a TR2.  Seller assured me
they would fit <G>

Randall

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Jul 26 10:16:37 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 12:16:37 EDT
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
Message-ID: <c05.4113ae87.35bca7e5@aol.com>

Thanks List for clearing up those first few things on the beading and seat  
belt hardware.  Now I am looking at the bolts that secure the front apron  
assembly.  They are left unpainted and do not have flat washers.   Think Marty the 
blind judge will catch that?  Should they be body  color with flat washers?  
I know here I go with the anal stuff.  I am  going to say they should be for 
the complete body shell must have  been painted at the factory and then lowered 
onto the complete rolling  chassis engine, radiator and all in place. The two 
bolts that secure the  latch up front are the same way no washers or paint, 
not sure about those.  Please correct me if I have this wrong.
 
You know now I can understand why many restorers typically leave all these  
underhood bolts unpainted.  My man Mark lined up the painted  wings and then 
went back and resprayed all the securing bolts and the  channel they sit in 
afterwards. Trouble was he had not fitted the bonnet  yet. That required some wing 
adjustment ruining the plate on all those  original Crane bolt heads so the 
paint process had to be done all over  again.  What a pain. 
 
Darrell
 
 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Sat Jul 26 10:31:35 2008
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 12:31:35 EDT
Subject: [TR]  Seals
Message-ID: <ce9.39a5c96d.35bcab67@aol.com>

------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 25 Jul  2008 18:55:34 -0400
From: "FRED E THOMAS" <>
Subject:To: "Shop-Talk  Mailing List" <shop-talk at autox.team.net>, "triumphs"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:  <001401c8eea9$8c53e050$a23e7247 at fred8kwiskhcfu>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

A short time back someone posted where one  could purchase the =="O" ring
gaskets"== for the instruments, I filed the  info and have now forgot where it
is, any help appreciated on this.   "FT"


Fred, it was British Cottage Industries.
    _http://britcot.com/_ (http://britcot.com/) 
NFI


Rodney Ford,  Brick, NJ
TR4A IRS CTC60536L
TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA 400612
President,  Positive Earth Drivers Club




**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Sat Jul 26 10:35:08 2008
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 12:35:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Seals
Message-ID: <c15.1d856a8a.35bcac3c@aol.com>

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 18:55:34 -0400
From:  "FRED E THOMAS" <>
Subject:To: "Shop-Talk Mailing List"  <shop-talk at autox.team.net>, "triumphs"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:  <001401c8eea9$8c53e050$a23e7247 at fred8kwiskhcfu>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

A short time back someone posted where one  could purchase the =="O" ring
gaskets"== for the instruments, I filed the  info and have now forgot where it
is, any help appreciated on this.   "FT"





Fred, it was British Cottage Industries.
    _http://britcot.com/_ (http://britcot.com/) 
NFI

Correction, make that British Car Cottage  Industries





Rodney  Ford, Brick, NJ
TR4A IRS CTC60536L
TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA  400612
President, Positive Earth Drivers Club
 




**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jul 26 10:56:00 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 10:56:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <c05.4113ae87.35bca7e5@aol.com>
References: <c05.4113ae87.35bca7e5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002101c8ef40$7c362dd0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Darrell,

If you are being anal, you are not alone.  I was just thinking about those
bolt head too as well as the heater tube that runs along side the engine and
the metal band, dust cover, around the back of the starter.  I left them
both natural, unfinished, I hope this is correct.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 10:17 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me

Thanks List for clearing up those first few things on the beading and seat
belt hardware.  Now I am looking at the bolts that secure the front apron  
assembly.  They are left unpainted and do not have flat washers.   Think
Marty the 
blind judge will catch that?  Should they be body  color with flat washers?

I know here I go with the anal stuff.  I am  going to say they should be for
the complete body shell must have  been painted at the factory and then
lowered onto the complete rolling  chassis engine, radiator and all in
place. The two bolts that secure the  latch up front are the same way no
washers or paint, not sure about those.  Please correct me if I have this
wrong.
 
You know now I can understand why many restorers typically leave all these
underhood bolts unpainted.  My man Mark lined up the painted  wings and then
went back and resprayed all the securing bolts and the  channel they sit in
afterwards. Trouble was he had not fitted the bonnet  yet. That required
some wing adjustment ruining the plate on all those  original Crane bolt
heads so the paint process had to be done all over  again.  What a pain. 
 
Darrell
 
 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.6/1574 - Release Date: 7/25/2008
4:27 PM

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sat Jul 26 11:12:07 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 13:12:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear Emblem
Message-ID: <002201c8ef42$bc09fbb0$67407247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

I have a friend installing a new rear panel on a T/R 3 with no predrilled
holes for the rear emblem or tag light, is there a correct measurement for
installing these parts so it looks factory original.  Thanks   "FT"

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Jul 26 11:50:18 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 13:50:18 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rear Emblem
Message-ID: <cd4.334d3ecd.35bcbdda@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/26/2008 1:28:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes:

I have a  friend installing a new rear panel on a T/R 3 with no predrilled
holes for  the rear emblem or tag light, is there a correct measurement for
installing  these parts so it looks factory original.  Thanks    "FT"



Hey Fred,
On my TR3B the "U" in Triumph is pretty close to centered on the panel and  
the latch piece for the boot handle.  Starting from the top of the "U" and  
towards the boot it is 2 1/8" to the first bend of the panel.
Hope this Helps,
Darrell 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Jul 26 12:08:20 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 14:08:20 EDT
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
Message-ID: <c9c.2ada68b9.35bcc214@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/26/2008 1:13:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wbeech at flash.net writes:

I was  just thinking about those
bolt head too as well as the heater tube that  runs along side the engine and
the metal band, dust cover, around the back  of the starter.  I left them
both natural, unfinished, I hope this is  correct.



I would say the tube should be black if you are referring to the one that  
goes to the water pump.  BTW, Yikes they painted my water pump grease jerk  
black!  I would be good with the starter as long as the finish on the  casing is 
matte black.
 
The TRA Judging manual is saying that bonnet release was installed prior to  
painting so the hardware should be body color.  But natural or body color  is 
accepted on the spring, spring-thimble cup & cable which means  they really 
have on clue.  
 
Darrell



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 26 18:54:40 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 17:54:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear Emblem
In-Reply-To: <002201c8ef42$bc09fbb0$67407247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <002201c8ef42$bc09fbb0$67407247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0807261754l6d93981tf29371adb8dbfe9a@mail.gmail.com>

When my '3 had its last respray the restorer thoughtfully welded all
those pesky holes shut... aaaargh!

Attached (for your eyes only) are the photos I took of a friend's 59
with a tape measure for reference.  These I used to redrill the
holes... may be of some use.

Geo


On 7/26/08, FRED E THOMAS <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net> wrote:
> I have a friend installing a new rear panel on a T/R 3 with no predrilled
> holes for the rear emblem or tag light, is there a correct measurement for
> installing these parts so it looks factory original.  Thanks   "FT"

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of holes6.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of holes7.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of holes8.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of holes9.JPG]

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Sat Jul 26 19:47:31 2008
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 18:47:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] 2008 VENTURA BRITISH CAR SHOW - July 27th - Oxnard, CA
In-Reply-To: <9869065.1216827709373.JavaMail.root@mswamui-swiss.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <9869065.1216827709373.JavaMail.root@mswamui-swiss.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <488BD3B3.6060400@141.com>

What time does this event start on Sunday morning?


rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net wrote:
> The Central Coast British Car Club Presents:
>
> THE EIGHTEENTH ANNUAL VENTURA COUNTY BRITISH CAR SHOW
>
> Channel Islands Harbour   *  July 27th, 2008
>
> Join us for a great afternoon at our wonderful waterfront location at the
> Channel
> Islands Harbour. This year we are honoring the Austin Healey marque, featuring
> the
> 50th anniversary of the Bugeye Sprite.
>
> There will be food, entertainment, vendors, and a swap meet and some of the
> finest
> British Cars in Southern California.
>
> Oxnard is but a short and lovely drive up the coast from Los Angeles b Come
> to Oxnard, enjoy the show, enjoy the ride, be back by supper b SEE YOU
> THERE!!!
>
> Website:
>
> www.centralcoastbritishcarclub.com
>
> INFORMATION:
> Gary Rice     (805) 644-3290  <gary.rice at worldnet.att.net)
> Dave Wellwood (805) 469-7842  <dswellwood at hotmail.com>
> Bill Guzman   (805) 484-1528  <BG.GTV6 at verizon.net>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as brad.kahler at 141.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.5/1568 - Release Date: 7/23/2008 6:55 AM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jul 27 06:48:09 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 08:48:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Pictures
In-Reply-To: <890904.44253.qm@web51904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <890904.44253.qm@web51904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001c8efe7$0aece400$210110ac@bobspc>

John,
You can't do attachments with the mail lists. They get automatically
stripped out.

Bob 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of johnehorton at yahoo.com
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 12:15 AM
To: auto tox; TR6
Subject: [6pack] Pictures

I forgot to attach the pictures.  John

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Pic1.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
pic2.JPG] _______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.156 / Virus Database: 270.5.6/1575 - Release Date: 7/26/2008
4:18 PM

From trglory at comcast.net  Sun Jul 27 09:22:23 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 11:22:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <c9c.2ada68b9.35bcc214@aol.com>
References: <c9c.2ada68b9.35bcc214@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001701c8effc$921584e0$b6408ea0$@net>

Darrell;

Don't feel bad.....I was looking at a TR3 "high quality resto" on eBay where
the whole engine compartment was painted jerk black. I'm sure that jerk
painted the grease too. And he had a Buy-it-now price in excess of $20K.

As to the fender washers and bolts, I think they look good in bright metal
and I intend to leave them that way. Hmmmm....that attitude is probably the
reason why I never win anything at car shows.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 2:08 PM
To: wbeech at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me

In a message dated 7/26/2008 1:13:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wbeech at flash.net writes:

I was  just thinking about those
bolt head too as well as the heater tube that  runs along side the engine
and
the metal band, dust cover, around the back  of the starter.  I left them
both natural, unfinished, I hope this is  correct.



I would say the tube should be black if you are referring to the one that  
goes to the water pump.  BTW, Yikes they painted my water pump grease jerk  
black!  I would be good with the starter as long as the finish on the
casing is 
matte black.
 
The TRA Judging manual is saying that bonnet release was installed prior to

painting so the hardware should be body color.  But natural or body color
is 
accepted on the spring, spring-thimble cup & cable which means  they really 
have on clue.  
 
Darrell

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 09:46:21 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 11:46:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
Message-ID: <c38.38e7e7ce.35bdf24d@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 11:22:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
trglory at comcast.net writes:


As  to the fender washers and bolts, I think they look good in bright metal
and  I intend to leave them that way. Hmmmm....that attitude is probably  the
reason why I never win anything at car  shows.

Joe




Joe,
The deduction for that in VTR Concours is nominal.  If I were judging  it 
would be a total of 3 pts or so from a 400 pt total.  Rules say a 1 pt  maximum 
for a fastener with a total of 10 pts total for the entire  vehicle.  Now as 
long as you don't have a bunch of Phillips head screws  underhood too you could 
be alright.
Cheers,
Darrell
 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 09:52:59 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 11:52:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
Message-ID: <ca1.39014b9a.35bdf3db@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 8:48:35 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
trglory at comcast.net writes:

As to  the fender washers and bolts, I think they look good in bright metal
and I  intend to leave them that way. Hmmmm....that attitude is probably  the
reason why I never win anything at car  shows.

Joe



Joe, 
I once read an article about car shows and winning. The author was  
discussing it with someone else who  abruptly got up and lead the author to  his 
garage. 
He pointed to his restored car and said "That is my trophy"!
So Joe, your car is YOUR trophy!
 
Best, Mike Moore



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Jul 27 13:24:16 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 12:24:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stromberg help
References: <mailman.3.1217095201.28675.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001501c8f01e$5c9e1c10$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hello,
Early Stromberg carburetor (1970 TR6, 175 CD-2, tags missing) has bronze?
slotted fuel bowl plug. Does this plug unscrew CCW? A PO removed crankcase
hoses from these carburetors. If I restore the hoses it will change the
mixture? Is this style carburetor mixture adjustable with the tool? What
would be best carburetor manual Haynes TECHBOOK 10240?

Regards, 
Bob

 




E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
Database version: 5.10340e
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 27 11:45:09 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 12:45:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
References: <ca1.39014b9a.35bdf3db@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001301c8f011$00e706f0$6615a8c0@garage.local>

i think we would all like to win a trophy or two.  but i overheard someone 
saying at a car show "I've got enough trophies."

made me realize that its not that big a deal.  really, imho, its about an 
hour or so of basking in the glory and then its irrelevant.  in april my son 
won a trophy in autocross, and he was very, very proud, as were we.  now 
he's at college and the trophy is here.

every time i get in my car i realize why i have it.  guess i'll have to be 
satisfied with that smug feeling of satisfaction.

i know, i know, its jealousy/sour grapes cause i've never won either . . . .

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MMoore8425 at aol.com>
To: <trglory at comcast.net>; <TR250Driver at aol.com>; <wbeech at flash.net>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me


> In a message dated 7/27/2008 8:48:35 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> trglory at comcast.net writes:
>
> As to  the fender washers and bolts, I think they look good in bright 
> metal
> and I  intend to leave them that way. Hmmmm....that attitude is probably 
> the
> reason why I never win anything at car  shows.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> Joe,
> I once read an article about car shows and winning. The author was
> discussing it with someone else who  abruptly got up and lead the author 
> to  his
> garage.
> He pointed to his restored car and said "That is my trophy"!
> So Joe, your car is YOUR trophy!
>
> Best, Mike Moore

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 27 11:25:38 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 10:25:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <001301c8f011$00e706f0$6615a8c0@garage.local>
References: <ca1.39014b9a.35bdf3db@aol.com>
	<001301c8f011$00e706f0$6615a8c0@garage.local>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0807271025v577c8daer5a681405d9d6d67c@mail.gmail.com>

I'm also not much on trophies (good thing as I seldom take them home)
but at our local event this past Spring there were trophies worth
winning.  Especially 3rd place:

http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Roundup%20Trophy.JPG

First place trophies were 'Gold' MGTDs.  'Silver' and 'Bronze'
featured Triumphs.

Geo


On 7/27/08, Oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> i think we would all like to win a trophy or two.  but i overheard someone
> saying at a car show "I've got enough trophies."
>
> made me realize that its not that big a deal.  really, imho, its about an
> hour or so of basking in the glory and then its irrelevant...

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 11:28:21 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 13:28:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
Message-ID: <c31.39446ac3.35be0a35@aol.com>

Darrell:

Ten points deduction for totally unobtainium "baby Tenax" is tough.  What is 
the latest ruling for lack of unobtainium items for Concours?

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
54 TR2LD  w/o baby Tenax


**************
Get fantasy football with free live 
scoring. Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Jul 27 11:42:56 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 17:42:56 +0000
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
Message-ID: <072720081742.15823.488CB3A0000A85A100003DCF22165579969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> i think we would all like to win a trophy or two.  but i overheard someone 
> saying at a car show "I've got enough trophies."
> 
> made me realize that its not that big a deal.  really, imho, its about an 
> hour or so of basking in the glory and then its irrelevant.  in april my son 
> won a trophy in autocross, and he was very, very proud, as were we.  now 
> he's at college and the trophy is here.

I have over the years acquired a number of trophies when luck and my vast autocross experience has managed to triumph over my total lack of natural talent.  I'm proud of them, but the fun of autocross is why I keep doing it, and will continue as long as I can qualify for a driver's license.

The only way I will ever get a concours trophy is if I buy a perfect car from somebody else and enter it in a concours before I have had enough time to screw it up.


--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Sun Jul 27 11:43:46 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 12:43:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR8 in Canada
Message-ID: <200807271743.m6RHhm4H386510@ns3.geneseo.net>

Is anyone on the list from Scarborough Ontario, a suburb of Toronto?

Or, does anybody on the list know anything about the TR8 on ebay, 
listing number 290248717575 ?


uncle jack 

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Jul 27 11:46:49 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 13:46:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <001301c8f011$00e706f0$6615a8c0@garage.local>
References: <ca1.39014b9a.35bdf3db@aol.com>
	<001301c8f011$00e706f0$6615a8c0@garage.local>
Message-ID: <20080727174627.UHED7436.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 01:45 PM 7/27/2008, Oliver wrote:

>every time i get in my car i realize why i have it.  guess i'll have to be
>satisfied with that smug feeling of satisfaction.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to have a spirited drive with a dozen 
or so assorted LBCs.  Lots of Triumphs, some MGs and even an E-type 
and a Sunbeam Alpine.  Some were clearly trophy winners or deserved 
to be; others like mine are full of rust and finished in faded, 
chalky Maaco paint.

But, after a couple of hours booming around the countryside, every 
driver had an equal amount of fun.  No smile was bigger or shinier 
than any other.  Everybody won...


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Jul 27 11:45:14 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 10:45:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <001301c8f011$00e706f0$6615a8c0@garage.local>
References: <ca1.39014b9a.35bdf3db@aol.com>
	<001301c8f011$00e706f0$6615a8c0@garage.local>
Message-ID: <p06240800c4b26305cc90@[98.224.22.215]>

Our philosophy is that we Drive the car (Rosey TR6) to the  show, 
most Concours have an optional "Drive", we Drive that.  We work hard 
on cleaning the car hoping for a Podium finish in class.  If that 
does not happen ... well  we had a really Good Parking Place ...

Some   very wise person (not I) once said:
	"These cars were  not built to be polished and set in a showroom
	or on a trailer. These cars were built to be driven. When you turn
	the key or push the starter button, they do not just start
		... they come ALIVE ..."

>i think we would all like to win a trophy or two.  but i overheard someone
>saying at a car show "I've got enough trophies."
>
>made me realize that its not that big a deal.  really, imho, its about an
>hour or so of basking in the glory and then its irrelevant.  in april my son
>won a trophy in autocross, and he was very, very proud, as were we.  now
>he's at college and the trophy is here.
>
>every time i get in my car i realize why i have it.  guess i'll have to be
>satisfied with that smug feeling of satisfaction.
>
>i know, i know, its jealousy/sour grapes cause i've never won either . . . .


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 12:04:52 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 14:04:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
Message-ID: <d4d.2959f13e.35be12c4@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 10:51:51 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
Loumetelko at aol.com writes:

Ten  points deduction for totally unobtainium "baby Tenax" is tough.  What is 
 
the latest ruling for lack of unobtainium items for  Concours?



I don't understand-I have had no problem buying those from TRS.
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 12:59:40 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 14:59:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
Message-ID: <cff.385bbe6b.35be1f9c@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 1:51:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Loumetelko at aol.com writes:

Ten  points deduction for totally unobtainium "baby Tenax" is tough.  What is 
 
the latest ruling for lack of unobtainium items for  Concours?



Sorry Lou,
Currently 1 pt per snap maximum, 10 pts total maximum per car.  I have  some 
very good TR2 Judges though so they know how difficult some parts are to  
obtain and score accordingly.
Regards,
Darrell
The latest goof is that I found the Bonnet Buffers in a Plastic Bag along  
with the special round head slotted screws for the body number plate that I  
thought they lost. Yikes, I thought something looked funny up  there.



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 13:26:16 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 15:26:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR8 in Canada
Message-ID: <d33.36da6f7f.35be25d8@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 2:06:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
vinttr4 at geneseo.net writes:

Or, does  anybody on the list know anything about the TR8 on ebay, 
listing number  290248717575 ?
 
 
 
 
only what i can tell from the VIN, which makes it very interesting to  me:
the VIN differs in only 3 characters from one of mine - 3rd letter L  
indicates Canadian market car (V on mine) - this one ends in 200018, mine  ends in 
200020 - presumably this car sat 2 cars in front of mine on the  assembly line - 
this makes it a really early 1980 model year car - 200020 is the  Triton 
Green Car and Driver cover car - i wonder what 200018 looked like before  somebody 
painted it black.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From trglory at comcast.net  Sun Jul 27 14:25:00 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 16:25:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <c38.38e7e7ce.35bdf24d@aol.com>
References: <c38.38e7e7ce.35bdf24d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002b01c8f026$d85742c0$8905c840$@net>

Yeah, but you'll probably deduct a bunch of points for the fuzzy dice!

 

Joe

 

From: TR250Driver at aol.com [mailto:TR250Driver at aol.com] 
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 11:46 AM
To: trglory at comcast.net; wbeech at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me

 

In a message dated 7/27/2008 11:22:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
trglory at comcast.net writes:


As to the fender washers and bolts, I think they look good in bright metal
and I intend to leave them that way. Hmmmm....that attitude is probably the
reason why I never win anything at car shows.

Joe

Joe,

The deduction for that in VTR Concours is nominal.  If I were judging it
would be a total of 3 pts or so from a 400 pt total.  Rules say a 1 pt
maximum for a fastener with a total of 10 pts total for the entire vehicle.
Now as long as you don't have a bunch of Phillips head screws underhood too
you could be alright.

Cheers,

Darrell

 





  _____  

Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up
<http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020>  for
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.

From allegrorover at mac.com  Sun Jul 27 14:48:21 2008
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 15:48:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <3BED2202-9FCF-4FE1-91EF-9330889B2BDA@mac.com>

If anyone is interested in my 2 cents worth, my feeling is I worked  
pretty hard, (as I am sure everyone else has as well) to complete a  
restoration on my 3A, even though I didn't intend to go that far, one  
thing led to another.
I took the car to Valley Forge and was pleased to be with the big boys  
who are in my eyes the experts. I learned a lot and have since been to  
several TR meets across the country, all well done and I enjoyed  
sharing stories and making friends with all of them.
I have in the last 4 months driven my TR3A everywhere, Grand Canyon,  
Monument Valley and several other states during my RV travels. As most  
of you know I even had to replace the tranny in OK, but I still intend  
to compete at the VTR.
The trophy's that we get are to me recognition for all the effort and  
time that we put into these little buggers.
I love mine I've owned it since 1978, and appreciate everyone who  
shows interest in them.
At this point I just want to keep it mechanically sound and  
enjoy....sorry for grandstanding.
Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 14:53:21 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 16:53:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
Message-ID: <c79.3aadd4a4.35be3a41@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 4:50:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
trglory at comcast.net writes:

Yeah,  but you'll probably deduct a bunch of points for the fuzzy  dice!




No way man, not me personally. Period Equipment!
 
Darrell



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Jul 27 15:03:02 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 17:03:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <002b01c8f026$d85742c0$8905c840$@net>
References: <c38.38e7e7ce.35bdf24d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <488CAA46.13494.13F2E05A@localhost>

On 27 Jul 2008 at 16:25, Joe Laurito wrote:

> Yeah, but you'll probably deduct a bunch of points for the fuzzy dice!

What if the fuzzy dice were original, or maybe factory-installed?  
Can you still get NOS fuzzy dice?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 15:58:11 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 17:58:11 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <cde.30eb860a.35be4973@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 5:09:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
allegrorover at mac.com writes:

The  trophy's that we get are to me recognition for all the effort and   
time that we put into these little buggers.


Tony,
Just for discussion purposes, I would estimate that between TRA, VTR,  
TRiumpfest and 6-PACK there will be close to 250 to 300 awards given out on  the 
National Level for the Triumph hobby.  Some will be for show, both  Concours 
showroom stock and Concours modified and don't forget Participants'  Choice. Then 
there are the Rallye Awards, my favorite, for both TSD and Fun  Type, AutoX 
and  Gymkhana. Various Special awards abound, for Triumph  Newsletters, 
Websites, special model awards like the Ken Richardson Challenge  Trophy for TR3's, 
the Dennis Riley/Bill Wood Award for TR8's, awards  for longest distance driven 
and traveled, club participation  awards and yes even a most prestigious VTR 
award born on this List for daily  driver Triumphs known as The Charles 
Macartney Daily Driver  Award. 
 
That is not meant to be a comprehensive list just a highlight for I know I  
have forgotten some.  Now tell me people don't care if they win?  I  call BS on 
anyone who says they don't. Everyone likes to be recognized for they  
accomplishments. Multiply this by what 100 for the British Car days across the  
nation?
Soap box Complete,
Darrell  



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 28 04:13:57 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 05:13:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] amphicars
References: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc>
	<abc1aef30803142121r673c9924x78552a14aa8e60c8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003a01c8f09a$a6cbc0e0$6615a8c0@garage.local>

http://www.ireport.com/docs/DOC-51496

kind of off topic, but i believe they have triumph running gear

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Jul 27 16:17:55 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 18:17:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <072720081742.15823.488CB3A0000A85A100003DCF22165579969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <072720081742.15823.488CB3A0000A85A100003DCF22165579969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <50B3565D333244F5B09372141BA95A30@DCH6RFC1>

I finished my restoration 4 years ago and swore it would remain as perfect
for ever as it was then.  But then I realized that driving was sooo much
more fun than seeing myself in the clear coat.

Last week (July 20, 4pm) I even got caught in a thunderstorm and the car got
wet.  How could I !!  But I laughed all the way home - that too was fun.

So since TCF 119 has well and truly lost its virginity (again), I was
wondering if anyone in the New England area could advise how I could go
about entering an autocross event.

Andrew Uprichard
62 TR3b reborn
59 TR3a about 6 months from completion

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 1:43 PM
To: Oliver; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me

From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> i think we would all like to win a trophy or two.  but i overheard someone

> saying at a car show "I've got enough trophies."
> 
> made me realize that its not that big a deal.  really, imho, its about an 
> hour or so of basking in the glory and then its irrelevant.  in april my
son 
> won a trophy in autocross, and he was very, very proud, as were we.  now 
> he's at college and the trophy is here.

I have over the years acquired a number of trophies when luck and my vast
autocross experience has managed to triumph over my total lack of natural
talent.  I'm proud of them, but the fun of autocross is why I keep doing it,
and will continue as long as I can qualify for a driver's license.

The only way I will ever get a concours trophy is if I buy a perfect car
from somebody else and enter it in a concours before I have had enough time
to screw it up.


--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C
package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 27 16:49:59 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 15:49:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <cde.30eb860a.35be4973@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080727225000.WKRD18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Now tell me people don't 
> care if they win?  I  call BS on anyone who says they don't. 

Well, say what you like, but I'm personally not the least bit interested in
being judged for being "correct".  Driving and enjoying the car is my
reward.

I had actually weakened; was thinking of making a "showable driver" out of
LE1973L.

But somehow the sight of a VTR judge "dinging" someone for having the much
more sensible Triumph alloy wheels on a Stag that should have had the flimsy
and underdesigned (for such a heavy car) wire wheels has put me off.  Maybe
I'll pull out the original motor and drop in a 4.9 Rover; or an LS1
(all-aluminum version of a Chevy 350).

Randall

From Roger at rw-architect.com  Sun Jul 27 16:49:56 2008
From: Roger at rw-architect.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 15:49:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
Message-ID: <94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F003B6BA@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>

A few months ago I asked for some advice about removing the front apron
to replace the radiator on my TR3.  I got several responses and the
replacement went great, without a single problem.  Thank you all for
your collective wisdom!



Now I have gotten myself stuck with a new problem and I'm hoping some of
those great minds on our list can help me out again.



I replaced the clutch slave cylinder and I am having a hard time
bleeding out the system.  I've bled brakes out on several cars without
any trouble, but I can't seem to get all the air out.  I even got a
Mityvac, but I still can't get it clear. It is the typical super-soft
pedal that hardens up with some pumping. Obviously there is still air in
there.



I think that my problem is that the bleeder valve is in awkward place
and it is hard to get it open enough to bleed and tight enough to close
in one position of the wrench. I think that is where air is sneaking in.
I even cut a 3/8" box wrench down so I could get a little more travel
out of it, but I still need to reposition the wrench to close it down
all the way.



I replace the hose, rod and other hardware, but not the pipe to the
master cylinder. It seems that if air was getting in the joint at the
pipe and the hose, it would leak fluid under pressure from the master
cylinder or am I wrong about that?



I was thinking of dropping the slave cylinder down and bleeding it with
the Mityvac with the slave attached to the master. Then I could get good
access to the bleeder valve.  Could that work?



Roger Wilson

'60 TR3

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 27 16:52:52 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 15:52:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <50B3565D333244F5B09372141BA95A30@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <20080727225252.HFWN15817.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> But then I 
> realized that driving was sooo much more fun than seeing 
> myself in the clear coat.

Hear, Hear !!!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 27 17:25:32 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 16:25:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stromberg help
In-Reply-To: <001501c8f01e$5c9e1c10$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <20080727232532.ETKJ9085.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Early Stromberg carburetor (1970 TR6, 175 CD-2, tags missing) 
> has bronze?
> slotted fuel bowl plug. Does this plug unscrew CCW?

That's the way I remember it, tho I could be mistaken.  May be very tight,
so be sure to use something that fits the slot as best you can manage and
hold it into the slot firmly as you're turning it.  Normally there's really
no reason to remove it, as you can pull the float chamber off over the brass
part to access the floats, float valve, O-ring, gasket, etc.

> A PO removed crankcase hoses from these carburetors. If I restore 
> the hoses it will change the mixture?

Some, but mostly at idle.

> Is this style 
> carburetor mixture adjustable with the tool?

1970 was a transition year, so it depends on whether you've got the early or
late carbs.

Probably the easiest way to tell (if you don't have the tool) is to remove
the setscrew in the side of the piston.  If it has a spring-loaded tip, the
needle is adjustable.

> What would be 
> best carburetor manual Haynes TECHBOOK 10240?

The series of articles on the Buckeye Triumphs website is much more useful,
IMO.  Even though they don't have as much information about carbs you don't
have <G>

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 27 17:43:48 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 16:43:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F003B6BA@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
Message-ID: <20080727234347.HTKU15817.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> It is the typical super-soft pedal that hardens up 
> with some pumping. Obviously there is still air in there.

Guess it's not so obvious to me ... that is exactly the symptom I got both
with a broken taper pin; and with a broken spring inside the MC.  Really bad
slave adjustment combined with a tired or broken slave return spring could
do it too, I think.

> I was thinking of dropping the slave cylinder down and 
> bleeding it with the Mityvac with the slave attached to the 
> master. Then I could get good access to the bleeder valve.  
> Could that work?

Personally, I have always been able to bleed the TR3's clutch by simply
pumping it up, holding the pedal down for 10-20 seconds, then releasing the
pedal and waiting for another 10-20 seconds.  Repeat the process 4 or 5
times, then go for a drive.  The returning slave piston should force the
bubbles into the line, which will then rise and work their way out through
the MC.

Sounds odd, but it works for me.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Jul 27 17:47:04 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 19:47:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
In-Reply-To: <20080727225252.HFWN15817.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <50B3565D333244F5B09372141BA95A30@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <488CD0B8.9380.14890ABC@localhost>

On 27 Jul 2008 at 15:52, Randall wrote:

> > But then I 
> > realized that driving was sooo much more fun than seeing 
> > myself in the clear coat.
> 
> Hear, Hear !!!

I have a good source for NOS original miles.  Contact me offlist if 
you need some.  It's worth 10pts for originality.  Also a limited 
supply of NOS tire air.

(Took the Spitfire out yesterday.  Haven't had much time lately, but 
it was great.  Saw a nice red chrome-bumpered MBG too.)

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 28 05:37:11 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 06:37:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
References: <20080727225000.WKRD18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <001201c8f0a7$f3033ee0$6615a8c0@garage.local>

i think its a matter of degree.  most of us would love to win an award.  but 
are we willing to put in the time, $$, and prep time at meets for it?

not gonna happen.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TR's


>> Now tell me people don't
>> care if they win?  I  call BS on anyone who says they don't.
>
> Well, say what you like, but I'm personally not the least bit interested 
> in
> being judged for being "correct".  Driving and enjoying the car is my
> reward.
>
> I had actually weakened; was thinking of making a "showable driver" out of
> LE1973L.
>
> But somehow the sight of a VTR judge "dinging" someone for having the much
> more sensible Triumph alloy wheels on a Stag that should have had the 
> flimsy
> and underdesigned (for such a heavy car) wire wheels has put me off. 
> Maybe
> I'll pull out the original motor and drop in a 4.9 Rover; or an LS1
> (all-aluminum version of a Chevy 350).
>
> Randall

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 27 17:53:09 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 16:53:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <20080727225000.WKRD18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <cde.30eb860a.35be4973@aol.com>
	<20080727225000.WKRD18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0807271653qa41dfb4la047977cdbbf2350@mail.gmail.com>

My beef with trophies & awards is more with the local generic car
shows.  These are fun and I enjoy seeing everything from brass-era to
hot rods, but they spend so much money on elaborate trophies and
significant cash prizes that they have to charge a $40 entry fee per
car.

I may enter one these shows each year, usually when our local club
decides to have a presence, but frankly can't see spending that much
money on a regular basis so other people can look at my car.

>> Now tell me people don't
>> care if they win?  I  call BS on anyone who says they don't.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 27 18:07:37 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 17:07:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <20080728000737.FLCZ19640.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

Quoth Randall :
> Well, say what you like, but I'm personally not the least bit 
> interested in being judged for being "correct".  Driving and 
> enjoying the car is my reward.

It's come to my attention that some are misinterpreting what I meant to say
here ...

My point, as always, is that it's YOUR car, it should please YOU.  If being
"correct" is what you enjoy, then by all means do so.  I have no problem at
all with people that feel that way; it's just not my cup of tea (so to
speak).

And I was NOT trying to criticize either the VTR concours or any of the
judges.  That judge (who I do respect but decline to name except that I
don't believe he is on this list) was doing exactly what he was supposed to
do.  What fun is a competition where the judges don't follow the rules?

I have no problem with the concours competition; it's just not what I enjoy.
It's lots of fun to go look at all the beautifully restored cars; but I'd
like to listen to a (period incorrect) CD on the way home <G>

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 18:30:24 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 20:30:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
Message-ID: <c18.3ec9edeb.35be6d20@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 5:27:48 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

Saw a  nice red chrome-bumpered MBG too.)



We have a later model MGB with rubber bumpers here locally. The man who  
restored it painted the bumpers body color. I think it looks just so much  better.
 
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 18:33:26 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 20:33:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <ce8.38fd36ca.35be6dd6@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 5:30:15 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
ahwahnee18 at gmail.com writes:

These  are fun and I enjoy seeing everything from brass-era to
hot rods, but they  spend so much money on elaborate trophies and
significant cash prizes that  they have to charge a $40 entry fee per
car.



I think Car Shows are used as fund raisers a lot. I really like AACA car  
shows. I belong to that club, but they do want the car the way it left the  
factory. They also tour a lot.
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 18:56:28 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 20:56:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <d20.33cf04c6.35be733c@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 8:30:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ahwahnee18 at gmail.com writes:

Now tell  me people don't
>> care if they win?  I  call BS on anyone  who says they  don't.
_______________________________________________



Please understand for me it has never been just the show thing.  My  Showroom 
Stock cars never win at local British Car Shows for they are  always bested 
by those ones with the shiny fender bolts in Participants'  Choice. A really 
good friend of mine and a renown Triumph Guru told me  the above years ago and 
to this day I believe it to be true. This would include  wins in the all 
competitive events mentioned previously.
Darrell  



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From coefront at shaw.ca  Sun Jul 27 19:04:05 2008
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 19:04:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR8
Message-ID: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDOEGHDCAA.coefront@shaw.ca>

Please advertise the following:

1982 TR8 for sale. Low mileage. Supremely well looked after. Many, many
extras. Superb condition. mike. coefront at shaw.ca
Thanks very much.

Mike Coe

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 27 19:33:56 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 21:33:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] amphicars
Message-ID: <cf9.3b8bab3a.35be7c04@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 5:39:41 PM Central Daylight Time, 
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: 
> http://www.ireport.com/docs/DOC-51496
> 
> kind of off topic, but i believe they have triumph running gear
> 
Triumph Herald engine.

The comment I've heard about Amphicars is "The make a lousy boat, too."

Dave   

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jul 27 19:41:06 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 21:41:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <20080727225000.WKRD18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <20080727225000.WKRD18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <200807272141.07285.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

I entered a local car show last summer with my 4 and lost to a very nice 63 
Porsche, a not so nice 59 VW bug (painted with a brush) and in 2nd place was 
a 95 Nissan!

Last show I will enter!

Now, I just go to car hops etc where there are no trophys. And I am usually 
the only foreign car there. I get a lot of "I had one of those when I was 
younger" .
 
A few weeks ago, a little lad wanted to sit in the driver's seat so I let him 
have a go. Sure made his day and I got a kick out of his smile.

Bob

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 27 19:43:23 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 21:43:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] Stromberg help
Message-ID: <be5.37cd5b1f.35be7e3b@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 11:48:23 AM Central Daylight Time, 
rpeglow at optonline.net writes: 
> Early Stromberg carburetor (1970 TR6, 175 CD-2, tags missing) has bronze?
> slotted fuel bowl plug. Does this plug unscrew CCW? A PO removed crankcase
> hoses from these carburetors. If I restore the hoses it will change the
> mixture? Is this style carburetor mixture adjustable with the tool? What
> would be best carburetor manual Haynes TECHBOOK 10240?
> 
If your carbs have the brass plug (slotted) then it SHOULD have the 
adjustable needles.  If it had the adjustable jets there would not be the plug there 
but the adjuster.

I said "should" because a friend had neither the adjustable jets nor the 
adjustable needles in his TR250 carbs.  Another Mix-n-DPO Match.

Dave   

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Sun Jul 27 19:51:02 2008
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 21:51:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stromberg help
In-Reply-To: <001501c8f01e$5c9e1c10$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <mailman.3.1217095201.28675.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<001501c8f01e$5c9e1c10$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <000001c8f054$64245180$bf4b3b47@Scott>

Bob:

Yes, it screws in. Crank hoses, in my opinion has little or no effect on
mixture. It should be adjustable, but as Randall said, get the tool and try.
Please note that when you richen the mixture by turning it clock wise, you
will max out and cannot turn it any more. On the other hand, when leaning
out the mixture, there is no "bottoming out", so you will just keep turning
and turning, even thought the needle is not moving any more. I found it best
to start with the needle shoulder flush with the piston. You can do this
with the piston out of the carb chamber.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bob
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 3:24 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Stromberg help

Hello,
Early Stromberg carburetor (1970 TR6, 175 CD-2, tags missing) has bronze?
slotted fuel bowl plug. Does this plug unscrew CCW? A PO removed crankcase
hoses from these carburetors. If I restore the hoses it will change the
mixture? Is this style carburetor mixture adjustable with the tool? What
would be best carburetor manual Haynes TECHBOOK 10240?

Regards, 
Bob

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Sun Jul 27 20:02:07 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 21:02:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] amphicars
References: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc><abc1aef30803142121r673c9924x78552a14aa8e60c8@mail.gmail.com>
	<003a01c8f09a$a6cbc0e0$6615a8c0@garage.local>
Message-ID: <3B112E9100B64C38B6F389031AE85975@KARL>

They use a Herald engine - everything else is either sourced from various 
German cars, or special for Amphicar.  Even the intake manifold is special - 
it uses a single Solex with a marine anti-backfire restrictor.  Exhaust 
manifold may be stock - I don't remember now.

Karl 

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Sun Jul 27 20:04:15 2008
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 22:04:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Dash Wiring
Message-ID: <000101c8f056$3c7ba910$bf4b3b47@Scott>

I have just about completed the dash wiring this evening but came across one
problem that I am not sure how to resolve. The Brown/Blue (NU) 10 gauge wire
that runs from the harness goes to the light switch and then to the ignition
switch. There is only one NU wire in the harness so I assume I have to make
a jumper wire (my original dash had a yellow wire). Here is my question: The
connection on the light switch is a screw down with a hole that the wire
slides through. With the NU wire being 10 gauge, there is no way you can put
the harness wire in this hole with the same gauge wire to connect over to
the ignition switch.  Do you use a smaller gauge wire for the jump wire (say
12 or 16) and if so, could this cause problems since the harness wire is
clearly a 10 gauge wire?  TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR
'59 TR3

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 27 20:17:51 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 19:17:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear leaf springs
Message-ID: <944098.88268.qm@web59612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

listers,
I'm restoring a tr-3 and just purchased a pair of rear leaf springs. 
When they came one spring had two approx. 2" X 3" steel pads attached to the
spring by the center bold that holds the leaves together.  The other one had
those pads missing.  I know that tr-3 springs for at least some time were
differant "rates" between passenger and drive side.  probably driver side the
stiffer one.  I'm wondering if these pads were on the driver side? does anyone
know more about this?
also.....I have the leaves apart and am cleaning them
up.  is it recommended to paint between leaves before re-assembling? or just
heavy grease?
thanks for any help.
gary nafziger
wellman, iowa

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Jul 27 20:25:38 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 22:25:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] What is the vertical lever of the STATOR TUBE PLATE?
Message-ID: <007301c8f059$3a6e4580$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I am just now re-inserting the repaired control head wiring (thanks to the
GREAT Andy Dixon!) wiring into my installed stator tube.

The workshop manual says:
"With the flasher control lever of the head at 12 o'clock ensure that the
vertical lever of the STATOR TUBE PLATE is at the 6 o'clock position.  Failure
to observe this point will mean that the flashing indicators will not cancel
correctly."

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 811 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Jul 27 20:39:40 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 22:39:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Running a TR3 without fenders and front apron?
Message-ID: <007a01c8f05b$2ff51460$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Would there be anything damaged by driving my rebuilt TR3 without fenders and
front apron?  I live in a rural area and I thought it's innagural run might
ought to occur before all parts of the body are back on (even though it is
illegal.)

Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 811 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Jul 27 20:53:40 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 02:53:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <072820080253.25706.488D34B40008E2FB0000646A22165258069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net>

> Now, I just go to car hops etc where there are no trophys. And I am usually 
> the only foreign car there. I get a lot of "I had one of those when I was 
> younger" .

I know that one.  Everybody had, or knows someone who had, a TR4. Often I hear stories of someone they knew who brought one back when they returned from being with the US military in Germany.


--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Jul 27 20:55:12 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 02:55:12 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR8
Message-ID: <072820080255.7093.488D35100002E6EA00001BB522165258069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Mike Coe" <coefront at shaw.ca>
> Please advertise the following:
> 
> 1982 TR8 for sale. Low mileage. Supremely well looked after. Many, many
> extras. Superb condition. mike. coefront at shaw.ca
> Thanks very much.
> 
> Mike Coe

Location?
Price?

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Jul 27 21:01:48 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 03:01:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] OT: MGB paint jobs
Message-ID: <072820080301.27316.488D369C0003FC5300006AB422165258069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: MMoore8425 at aol.com
> In a message dated 7/27/2008 5:27:48 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
> jimmuller at rcn.com writes:
> 
> We have a later model MGB with rubber bumpers here locally. The man who  
> restored it painted the bumpers body color. I think it looks just so much  
> better.

There is/was an MGB/GT in the Twin Cities, monochromatic white including the rubber bumpers.  Makes it look like more-modern car.


--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sun Jul 27 21:41:04 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 23:41:04 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <bf1.3305efc6.35be99d0@aol.com>

I have attended car shows since 1986. It took me a while to figure out how  
they work. I have judged,I have won a few,and I have lost a lot more! I have  
shown Triumphs, Chrysler letter cars, and Stags.I have enjoyed car shows.
 
Judging any car show is tough if you do it fairly, and you   have to go out 
of your way to be fair. 
 
Some of my pet peeves as an attendee:
 
1. Listening to people at car shows who complain about their scores.
 
2. Listening to people at car shows who claim their car is better than some  
other car that won.
 
3. Listening to people at car shows who complain that its unfair for  amateur 
restorations to compete with professional   restorations-or  trailered etc.
 
I once drove my 63 300H  to Victoria BC from LA.. I spent Friday night  
cleaning it up for a national competition. I lost Best of Class by several  points 
although I thought clearly I had the best car. I did not complain or  protest. 
I requested and later got copies of all my judging sheets. They had  failed 
to judge my engine compartmen!  I wrote the sponsoring national club  a nice 
letter suggesting that perhaps they ought to have a step on the  process to 
verify all judging had been done. I volunteered to do that at the  next show. 
 
I also lost once to a car just like mine. The owner had complained that it  
was necessary to make a lot of mods to keep his car reliable.He didn't drive  
his-I drove mine (dead stock) a lot. Inside, I really resented that he  won , 
but my wife suggested that I should be the very first to congratulate  
him-which I did and I found myself assuring him that his was truly the best  car 
there. I think it made his day, and that made me very happy. 
 
I have noticed in the past 22 years of participating, that usually  nice 
people who are good to be around tend to win more. People who chronically  
complain about something usually don't come back or find another  hobby. 
 
I long ago concluded that the shows are not about the cars, but about  the 
people. Some of the nicest people I meet are at the Pebble Beach  Concours where 
I work every year. You would think they were real snobs, but not  so.
 
Best, Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 27 22:07:44 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 21:07:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <944098.88268.qm@web59612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080728040743.ICLG19640.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I know that tr-3 springs for at least some time were differant 
> "rates" between passenger and drive side.

News to me; all I knew about was the spacer.

> I'm wondering if these pads were on 
> the driver side? does anyone know more about this?

Nope, spacers go on the passenger side.  Since the spring passes under the
axle, the spacer lowers that side of the car.

> also.....I have the leaves apart and am cleaning them up.  is 
> it recommended to paint between leaves before re-assembling? 

I painted mine.  Seems like it helped keep them from rusting again quite as
quickly, but I can't prove it.  Also coated them with grease (after the
paint dried) and followed the book recommendation of smearing some used oil
on them at each chassis service.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 27 22:10:17 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 21:10:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Dash Wiring
In-Reply-To: <000101c8f056$3c7ba910$bf4b3b47@Scott>
Message-ID: <20080728041015.DGOC4153.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Do you use a smaller gauge wire 
> for the jump wire (say
> 12 or 16) and if so, 

I believe the original jumper was approximately 12 AWG.

> could this cause problems since the 
> harness wire is clearly a 10 gauge wire?

Not a problem, since the draw through the ignition switch should be
relatively small compared to the headlight switch.  Plus the distance is
quite short, so the voltage drop is small even in the thinner wire.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 27 22:14:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 21:14:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stromberg help
In-Reply-To: <be5.37cd5b1f.35be7e3b@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20080728041457.IDUR19640.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I said "should" because a friend had neither the adjustable 
> jets nor the adjustable needles in his TR250 carbs.  Another 
> Mix-n-DPO Match.

Not necessarily.  The early emissions carbs were like that, with no mixture
adjustment (except the idle air bleed on the side).  This was to avoid
"tampering" and ISTR was actually required by US emissions law.  Later they
liberalized the law to only making the adjustment available to a
"technician", which is why it moved inside the piston shaft.

US carbs typically had a plug driven in over the adjustment, so you had to
actually break the casting to tweak the mixture.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 27 22:47:33 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 21:47:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] What is the vertical lever of the STATOR TUBE PLATE?
In-Reply-To: <007301c8f059$3a6e4580$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080728044732.IIWY19640.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> The workshop manual says:
> "With the flasher control lever of the head at 12 o'clock 
> ensure that the vertical lever of the STATOR TUBE PLATE is at 
> the 6 o'clock position.

The "Stator tube plate" is the shiny flat disc that sticks out at the back
of the control head.  It's edge gets trapped against the steering wheel by
the 3 grub screws.

If you look around between that plate and the rest of the control head, you
should see a short (perhaps 3/4") but wide metal "finger" that sticks up
from the plate and engages the canceling ring on the control head.  That
finger is the lever that the manual speaks of; and it should on the bottom
(6 o'clock position) with the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position
and the control head in it's proper position with the turn lever pointing
straight up.

Randall

From Roger at rw-architect.com  Mon Jul 28 00:05:53 2008
From: Roger at rw-architect.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 23:05:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <030B53015F7048EA8D5754452D2FA4B8@rwa.local>
References: <94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F003B6BA@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
	<030B53015F7048EA8D5754452D2FA4B8@rwa.local>
Message-ID: <94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F003B6BB@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>

Are you saying to bleed the clutch by pumping it without opening the
bleed valve?  I'll give it a try.
Roger


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+roger=rw-architect.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+roger=rw-architect.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 5:30 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder

> It is the typical super-soft pedal that hardens up
> with some pumping. Obviously there is still air in there.

Guess it's not so obvious to me ... that is exactly the symptom I got
both
with a broken taper pin; and with a broken spring inside the MC.  Really
bad
slave adjustment combined with a tired or broken slave return spring
could
do it too, I think.


> I was thinking of dropping the slave cylinder down and
> bleeding it with the Mityvac with the slave attached to the
> master. Then I could get good access to the bleeder valve.
> Could that work?

Personally, I have always been able to bleed the TR3's clutch by simply
pumping it up, holding the pedal down for 10-20 seconds, then releasing
the
pedal and waiting for another 10-20 seconds.  Repeat the process 4 or 5
times, then go for a drive.  The returning slave piston should force the
bubbles into the line, which will then rise and work their way out
through
the MC.

Sounds odd, but it works for me.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as roger at rw-architect.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 28 06:18:07 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 08:18:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] Running a TR3 without fenders and front apron?
Message-ID: <bcf.2fea89b3.35bf12ff@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 10:31:43 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes: 
> Would there be anything damaged by driving my rebuilt TR3 without fenders 
> and
> front apron?
Other than the fact that all the stuff the tires throw off (water, gravel, 
etc) will fly about all over the coachwork, windshield, and you, no.

But then, folks have run open wheeled roadsters before so why not?

Dave   

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Jul 28 07:25:56 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 14:25:56 +0100
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
References: <ce8.38fd36ca.35be6dd6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <039e01c8f0b5$78cb37f0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Mike Moore wrote:

> I think Car Shows are used as fund raisers a lot. I really like AACA car
> shows. I belong to that club, but they do want the car the way it left the
> factory.

Well, Mike, the Stag I'll be driving across the US and Canada will certainly be raising funds for 
three non-profits :)

As for it looking like "as it left the factory" I'm not so sure. While I'm greatly indebted to all 
the work that Joe Pawlak and his team of valiant restorers have been and will be putting into the 
rebuild (Glenn Merrell says he wants it as a near concours finished article) I'm hoping it *will* 
feature:

A fire extinguisher in the rally car location
Absolutely none of those crappy bent wire hose clamps that knacker the hoses in three nano-seconds! 
I've specified worm drive type on the grounds that if they were good enough for Rolls Royce, Aston 
Martin, Jaguar and a few others - they're good enough for me :) What's more, if the car does appear 
with them in place when I first meet it, they'll be coming off immediately :)
Instrumentation-wise, I'm hoping the engine temp gauge will be replaced by the dual type gauge seen 
on MGB's and the like that have an oil pressure / temp gauge fed by !!!capillary tubes!!! and not 
electric. If the temp reads in Celsius, so much the better.
But "as it left the factory" in terms of other appearances?
Perhaps the whole car should be sprayed with industrial lanolin and have various factory stickers 
inside the windscreen. BTW, I've replicated these stickers and will soon be uploading them to the 
website www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk for enthusiasts to print off for their cars when at Concours 
events. Those are intended as fundraisers, as will the replica Standard-Triumph factory logbook 
issued with all company cars. Then there are the replica Standard Triumph tax disc holders - and 
hey, why don't I get a UK style licence plate made up for the front or rear of the car? Are there 
any States where such a 'trophy' cannot be legally displayed?

One thing is certain. This Stag won't look like its just off the line after 11,000 miles methinks...

Jonmac 

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 07:29:16 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:29:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <c0b.3af6dae1.35bf23ac@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2008 11:31:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
MMoore8425 at aol.com writes:

Some of my pet peeves as an attendee:


All you have said is right on Mike. It really is an imperfect  world when it 
comes to car shows. I have seen all of those peeves. I would  like to add one 
more pet peeve of mine. Every now and then results get screwed  up and the 
organizers know it.  I once witnessed a person read the  results of a Concours 
competition backwards.  In other words the 3rd  place car was announced as 
first, 2nd was 2nd and the first place car got  3rd. That can happen and whenever I 
am asked to announce results I am  sweating bullets. In this case everyone in 
the room knew something was  screwed up but the person who did it and the 
organizers of the event did  nothing to correct it. I was the guy in second so no 
problem but the guy  who was screwed out of 1st was never seen again. 
Way Ouch!
Darrell







**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 07:35:34 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:35:34 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <bf1.3311c6d1.35bf2526@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 6:28:11 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

But "as  it left the factory" in terms of other appearances?


Not that big a deal Jonmac. AACA is the oldest car club in the country.They  
deduct points for non-factory parts . For instance, I lost a lotofpoints on my 
E  Type because I had a Ron Davis aluminum radiator not painted black. They 
have  this rule also, they ask you if its factory or not. Its your word. 
They would not like alternators in place of generators for instance.Many of  
the cars I see are not what we would call concours because they drive their  
cars. Theyjust want themn to be preserved as built-not lumped etc.
Best, Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 07:48:21 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:48:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <bbe.2dc0cab8.35bf2825@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 6:29:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  TR250Driver 
writes:

All you have said is right on Mike. It really is an imperfect  world when it 
comes to car shows. I have seen all of those peeves. I would  like to add one 
more pet peeve of mine. Every now and then results get screwed  up and the 
organizers know it.  I once witnessed a person read the  results of a Concours 
competition backwards.  In other words the 3rd  place car was announced as 
first, 2nd was 2nd and the first place car got  3rd. That can happen and whenever I 
am asked to announce results I am  sweating bullets. In this case everyone in 
the room knew something was  screwed up but the person who did it and the 
organizers of the event did  nothing to correct it. I was the guy in second so no 
problem but the guy  who was screwed out of 1st was never seen again. 
Way Ouch!
Darrell



That's bad. If I see something wrong with someone else's judging, I'll do  
whatever I can to get it fixed, and I have been successful sometimes in the past 
 just by pointing out the mistake. I will do it for others (if its an  
obvious mistake) but never for myself. Judging is a huge responsibility because  it 
can quickly become so personal. I wish attendee would realize it is an awful  
lot of work and very stressful.
 
My club was once invited to judge our car make class at a large meet. Two  
"new" cars showed up in our class which we had never seen before. They were  
owned by the same guy who had just paid $85k for the pair (1991). We graded the  
cars down for chrome plated air filters (not stock),orange ignition cables (sb 
 black), blue coil (sb black), red heater hoses  (sb black). 
 
The owner was furious. He was apparentally pretty influential and brought  
the show organizer to see me and we discussed each point. I made the mistake of  
suggesting he join our club and he would learn what was stock and what 
wasn't.  He then assumed we had given the top places to our friends in our single  
make club. (The "restorer" had told him these were concours cars and would win 
a  lot of trophies). My club was never invited back to that show and oure 
class was  merged with another class.
So it goes.
 
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 08:24:29 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 10:24:29 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <c72.34a5c6a7.35bf309d@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 8:48:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, MMoore8425  
writes:

We graded the cars down for chrome plated air filters (not stock),orange  
ignition cables (sb black), blue coil (sb black), red heater hoses  (sb  black). 
 
The owner was furious. 
 
Oh Yeah Mike,
I have seen that several times over.  I once had to slip out the  side door 
of the Hotel after the awards presentation at a National to avoid an  owner 
when people were saying to me  "He is pissed and looking for  you".  His freshly 
restored car did not win 1st and he wasn't going to  stand for that. All I can 
remember since I didn't personally judge his  car is that he had those shinny 
fender bolts and a bunch of other little stuff  goofed up. 
He was a big Dude too so in order to possibly avoid the pain of death I  
split to let him cool down a bit.  I tried to talk to him later but he  would have 
none of it.  Saw him one more time at another club's  National.  The car was 
the same and he was not 1st once again,  but this time I had nothing to do 
with it.
Darrell  





**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 08:34:21 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 10:34:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <c0a.3f249969.35bf32ed@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 7:24:29 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  TR250Driver 
writes:

 
Oh Yeah Mike,
I have seen that several times over.  I once had to slip out the  side door 
of the Hotel after the awards presentation at a National to avoid  an owner 
when people were saying to me  "He is pissed and looking for  you".  His freshly 
restored car did not win 1st and he wasn't going to  stand for that. All I can 
remember since I didn't personally judge his  car is that he had those shinny 
fender bolts and a bunch of other little  stuff goofed up. 
He was a big Dude too so in order to possibly avoid the pain of death I  
split to let him cool down a bit.  I tried to talk to him later but he  would have 
none of it.  Saw him one more time at another club's  National.  The car was 
the same and he was not 1st once again,  but this time I had nothing to do 
with it.
Darrell  






Those are the people who eventually leave the hobby or show their  cars at 
non-single-marque local shows. 
The problem is they spoil the show for others. people like winners, but  they 
also respect (and remember) gracious losers. I have a friend who now  enters 
car shows with his car "For Display Only". he was just  psychologically 
incapable of dealing graciously with not winning but still  wanted to participate.
Mike Moore



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 28 09:26:38 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:26:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <20080727225000.WKRD18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <cde.30eb860a.35be4973@aol.com>
	<20080727225000.WKRD18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W1674791C30488E482A642DE5830@phx.gbl>

Over the years friends and strangers alike have often encouraged me to show my
TR3A.  I have always declined simply replying, "I built this car to drive not
to show."  I still have some trophies anyway but they are for driving events.
I like to get the recognition while having fun but the fun is what I am
after.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 15:49:59 -0700
> Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TR's
>
> > Now tell me people don't
> > care if they win?  I  call BS on anyone who says they don't.
>
> Well, say what you like, but I'm personally not the least bit interested in
> being judged for being "correct".  Driving and enjoying the car is my
> reward.
>
> I had actually weakened; was thinking of making a "showable driver" out of
> LE1973L.
>
> But somehow the sight of a VTR judge "dinging" someone for having the much
> more sensible Triumph alloy wheels on a Stag that should have had the
flimsy
> and underdesigned (for such a heavy car) wire wheels has put me off.  Maybe
> I'll pull out the original motor and drop in a 4.9 Rover; or an LS1
> (all-aluminum version of a Chevy 350).
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety.
http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_fami
ly_safety_072008

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul 28 09:34:09 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 11:34:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] PIC NEEDED of Stator Tube Plate
Message-ID: <009c01c8f0c7$62051ec0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I am ready to feed the control head wiring into the installed stator tube.
The W.Manual says to do this with "the flasher control lever of the head at 12
o'clock to ensure that the vertical lever of the STATOR TUBE PLATE is at the 6
o'clock position.  Failure to observe this point will mean that the flashing
indicators will not cancel correctly."

I am wondering why no catalogs or books show this stator tube plate.  I hope I
can find mine.  Randall said it is a shiny flat disc piece of metal.

Does someone have a picture of how it goes togather that they could email me?
All that I have is the repaired control head (thanks Andy Dixon) and the
steering wheel.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 811 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 28 09:39:34 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 11:39:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's
Message-ID: <009501c8f0c8$22c6f9d0$b3457247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

When I see or hear of a owner getting angry about his judging score I just
point out to him whom is the "Chief Judge", works eveytime for me  :)  :)  :)
"FT"

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jul 28 09:52:17 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:52:17 +0000
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
Message-ID: <072820081552.2802.488DEB31000B8D9500000AF222155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Roger Wilson" <Roger at rw-architect.com>
> Are you saying to bleed the clutch by pumping it without opening the
> bleed valve?  

That absolutely worked for me after I replaced the clutch slave cylinder on my Miata.  The system had emtied itself out when the old clutch slave cylinder failed.  I bolted in a new clutch slave cylinder, then filled the reservoir.  I sat in the car jumping up and down on the clutch pedal for about ten minutes.  Never did touch the bleed screw.

I had another Miata guy tells me that this cannot happen and I must have a magic car.  I don't think that's true.  :-)

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Mon Jul 28 12:56:08 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 11:56:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stromberg help (Thank you)
References: <mailman.20259.1217202416.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <008d01c8f0e3$9cde83d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

If I  can (would like to) get that plug out, I can replace the o-ring and
not disturb the bowl gasket, thus stopping the small amount gas weeping.
The car is running well, the weather is great for driving, so if restoring
the crankcase hoses changes that I now have information about mixture
adjustment. Hose plan is to reduce crankcase pressure and possibly some
minor engine oil leakage.
I had a link to Buckeye Triumphs, CRS, I needed that reminder..........
Thank you all again.
Bob






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
Database version: 5.10340e
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jul 28 10:10:41 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 16:10:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
Message-ID: <072820081610.4924.488DEF810003F23C0000133C22155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
> I'm also not much on trophies (good thing as I seldom take them home)
> but at our local event this past Spring there were trophies worth
> winning.  Especially 3rd place:
> 
> http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Roundup%20Trophy.JPG
> 
> First place trophies were 'Gold' MGTDs.  'Silver' and 'Bronze'
> featured Triumphs.

Wow.  That's really cool!

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 28 10:33:16 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 12:33:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hub dimension needed
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV72243085EE76A602CC79EF4830@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV72243085EE76A602CC79EF4830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W23C6AC885450E0286D8E66BA830@phx.gbl>

Anybody have a TR6 rear hub bearing housing laying around that you could lay a
scale across the corners and give me an approximation as to the dimension?

Thanks,
Marty
_________________________________________________________________
Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety.
http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_fami
ly_safety_072008

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jul 28 11:04:55 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 10:04:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's
References: <009501c8f0c8$22c6f9d0$b3457247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <003201c8f0d4$0f0555c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

The problem with Concours judging is that it is the equivalent of someone
pointing out all the flaws of your first newborn child.

Tell a new mother that her baby is ugly and you will have a fight on your
hands!

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "FRED E THOMAS" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
To: "triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 8:39 AM
Subject: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's


> When I see or hear of a owner getting angry about his judging score I just
> point out to him whom is the "Chief Judge", works eveytime for me  :)  :)
:)
> "FT"
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 11:23:36 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 10:23:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] PIC NEEDED of Stator Tube Plate
In-Reply-To: <009c01c8f0c7$62051ec0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <009c01c8f0c7$62051ec0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <8870040327D94DF1BBBFD8B5971EFD0C@jdnet.deere.com>

> Does someone have a picture of how it goes togather that they could email
> me?

Here are a couple of photos, extracted from the 'disassembly' article at
http://www.tr-register.com.au/files/technical/ControlHead.zip

I've added some crude labels to one of them, pointing out the plate and the
lever.  That photo shows the plate (and bearing assembly) separate from the
control head, but they should be already installed to your control head, as
shown in the other picture.

Randall

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Stator tube plate.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Control head.JPG]

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 11:28:48 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 10:28:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <039e01c8f0b5$78cb37f0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <ce8.38fd36ca.35be6dd6@aol.com>
	<039e01c8f0b5$78cb37f0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <962D0AEBFAB54527A34C371C5CB0F9BA@jdnet.deere.com>

> Instrumentation-wise, I'm hoping the engine temp gauge will be replaced by
> the dual type gauge seen
> on MGB's and the like that have an oil pressure / temp gauge fed by
> !!!capillary tubes!!!

If so, try not to be too concerned over the oil pressure reading.  Those
gauges read to 100 psi over a fairly small sweep of the needle, so the 40
psi max of a standard Stag motor looks like almost nothing.

Randall (with one of those dual gauges in place of the clock)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 11:33:11 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 10:33:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Running a TR3 without fenders and front apron?
In-Reply-To: <007a01c8f05b$2ff51460$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <007a01c8f05b$2ff51460$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <DE5C139E7042432392ED55B4FC3E1486@jdnet.deere.com>

> Would there be anything damaged by driving my rebuilt TR3 without fenders
> and
> front apron?

A short drive would probably be OK.  The two things I would worry about are
the chances of taking a rock (or bird) through the unprotected radiator; and
the largely unsupported inner wings flexing in the wind.

Randall

From dncullig at us.ibm.com  Mon Jul 28 11:47:29 2008
From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 13:47:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] (TR) Triumphs and trophys
Message-ID: <OFE1D6BA81.914BC02E-ON85257494.00603ED9-85257494.0061BB5F@us.ibm.com>

    OK, my car show pet peeve  -  the show-eligible cars left in
the parking lot 'cause the owner is too "frugal" to pay the entry
fee and support the organizing club.  The normal excuses:
1. I'm only going to be here an hour (car is often there all day)
2. My car won't win (neither will MOST of the cars)
3. It's not a show car (so what? - support the club!)

   I don't know about others in other parts of the country but EVERY
British car show I have been to this year has had lower attendance
by 1/2 to 1/3 than the year before. This includes shows in New York,
New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Perhaps this whole "car show"
thing is getting old...

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jul 28 11:43:30 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 10:43:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me
References: <072820081610.4924.488DEF810003F23C0000133C22155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004001c8f0d9$7319cfa0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

My two Spits took first and second in class and I like the second place
award better than the First!

Joe C.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>; "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] More TR3 things bugging me


> From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
> > I'm also not much on trophies (good thing as I seldom take them home)
> > but at our local event this past Spring there were trophies worth
> > winning.  Especially 3rd place:
> >
> > http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Roundup%20Trophy.JPG
> >
> > First place trophies were 'Gold' MGTDs.  'Silver' and 'Bronze'
> > featured Triumphs.
>
> Wow.  That's really cool!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Mon Jul 28 11:47:49 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 13:47:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's
In-Reply-To: <003201c8f0d4$0f0555c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
References: <009501c8f0c8$22c6f9d0$b3457247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
	<003201c8f0d4$0f0555c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <58A2E1EE-2494-4A36-924A-A7B55EC2CDE6@mindspring.com>

> Tell a new mother that her baby is ugly and you will have a fight on  
> your
> hands!


What if she's ugly too?

Ashford Little
'70 TR6

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 28 11:51:38 2008
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 12:51:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's
In-Reply-To: <009501c8f0c8$22c6f9d0$b3457247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <009501c8f0c8$22c6f9d0$b3457247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W999BB14E0838491132FA7E1830@phx.gbl>

Just don't be the "Chief Judge"! %^)

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA


'63 TR3B TCF587L


That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!


See it moves!


> Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 11:39:34 -0400
> From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's
>
> When I see or hear of a owner getting angry about his judging score I just
> point out to him whom is the "Chief Judge", works eveytime for me  :)  :)
:)
> "FT"
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jul 28 12:04:59 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 11:04:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's
References: <009501c8f0c8$22c6f9d0$b3457247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
	<003201c8f0d4$0f0555c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
	<58A2E1EE-2494-4A36-924A-A7B55EC2CDE6@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <007301c8f0dc$7322f000$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

She still thinks her bundle of joy is the most beautiful thing on God's
green earth.  After all "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder"

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com>
To: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
Cc: "FRED E THOMAS" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>; "triumphs"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's


> > Tell a new mother that her baby is ugly and you will have a fight on
> > your
> > hands!
>
>
> What if she's ugly too?
>
> Ashford Little
> '70 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 12:19:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 11:19:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] (TR) Triumphs and trophys
In-Reply-To: <OFE1D6BA81.914BC02E-ON85257494.00603ED9-85257494.0061BB5F@us.ibm.com>
References: <OFE1D6BA81.914BC02E-ON85257494.00603ED9-85257494.0061BB5F@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <E614F365BD81415B99F3508164B9D3E2@jdnet.deere.com>

So this means I'm not supposed to drive a nice-looking car to a show I don't
plan to enter?

> Perhaps this whole "car show"
> thing is getting old...

Perhaps so.

Randall

From steven at newellboys.net  Mon Jul 28 12:22:27 2008
From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 12:22:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumphs and trophys
In-Reply-To: <OFE1D6BA81.914BC02E-ON85257494.00603ED9-85257494.0061BB5F@us.ibm.com>
References: <OFE1D6BA81.914BC02E-ON85257494.00603ED9-85257494.0061BB5F@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <488E0E63.7030201@newellboys.net>

Dennis N Culligan wrote:

>    OK, my car show pet peeve  -  the show-eligible cars left in
>the parking lot 'cause the owner is too "frugal" to pay the entry
>fee and support the organizing club.  The normal excuses:
>1. I'm only going to be here an hour (car is often there all day)
>2. My car won't win (neither will MOST of the cars)
>3. It's not a show car (so what? - support the club!)
>
>   I don't know about others in other parts of the country but EVERY
>British car show I have been to this year has had lower attendance
>by 1/2 to 1/3 than the year before. This includes shows in New York,
>New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Perhaps this whole "car show"
>thing is getting old...
>
Cost of fuel? Down economy? I'll bet that's a bigger factor than chronic 
car show fatigue syndrome.

Me, I love seeing the variety of cars outside a big car show. Those 
drivers didn't come for competition -- they came because they love cars. 
Maybe they're first timers; someone told them about the show and they're 
dipping a toe in the water. I drive my TR4 to our 500-car Brit-car 
Colorado Conclave, and I drive it to the Italian and Exotic show in 
Littleton, and I drive it to the grocery and to lacrosse practice and 
Home Depot and... But geesh, just because I drive past a car show in an 
old car doesn't mean I'm obligated to enter it. :)

Steven Newell
Littleton, Colorado USA
'62 TR4
'87 BMW 535is, 528e, 325(e)

From steven at newellboys.net  Mon Jul 28 12:28:22 2008
From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 12:28:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's
In-Reply-To: <009501c8f0c8$22c6f9d0$b3457247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <009501c8f0c8$22c6f9d0$b3457247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <488E0FC6.5070404@newellboys.net>

FRED E THOMAS wrote:

>When I see or hear of a owner getting angry about his judging score I just
>point out to him whom is the "Chief Judge", works eveytime for me :)
>"FT"
>
His wife?

Steven Newell
Littleton, Colorado USA
'62 TR4 etc.

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Mon Jul 28 13:06:33 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:06:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's
References: <009501c8f0c8$22c6f9d0$b3457247@fred8kwiskhcfu><003201c8f0d4$0f0555c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
	<58A2E1EE-2494-4A36-924A-A7B55EC2CDE6@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <001501c8f0e5$0daa49e0$0300a8c0@Desktop>

You guys are digging a deep hole


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com>
To: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
Cc: "triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's


>> Tell a new mother that her baby is ugly and you will have a fight on  
>> your
>> hands!
> 
> 
> What if she's ugly too?
> 
> Ashford Little
> '70 TR6
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 13:06:22 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:06:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's
Message-ID: <c9c.2b1892bd.35bf72ae@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 11:46:32 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes:

When I see or hear of a owner getting angry about his judging score I  just
point out to him whom is the "Chief Judge", works eveytime for  me  :)  :)  :)
"FT"


That's  why I always carry my trusty: rubber nose, mustache & dark sun 
glasses to  every event :)  :)  :)  







**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From jmcoh at comcast.net  Mon Jul 28 13:14:52 2008
From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:14:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs and trophys
In-Reply-To: <OFE1D6BA81.914BC02E-ON85257494.00603ED9-85257494.0061BB5F@us.ibm.com>
References: <OFE1D6BA81.914BC02E-ON85257494.00603ED9-85257494.0061BB5F@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <005201c8f0e6$37dcf130$a796d390$@net>

I am one of those guys.  Frugality has nothing to do with it.  With kids at
home and a working wife, I simply do not have the time to spend one or two
days at a car show.  I go, pay the fee, spend a few hours at the show, often
bringing one of the kids with me, purchase some food and swag and cruise
home. A perfect day.   I feel this is both supportive of the host club and
the hobby.  


John Cohen
76 TR6
http://www.triumphowners.com/701


    OK, my car show pet peeve  -  the show-eligible cars left in
the parking lot 'cause the owner is too "frugal" to pay the entry
fee and support the organizing club.  The normal excuses:
1. I'm only going to be here an hour (car is often there all day)
2. My car won't win (neither will MOST of the cars)
3. It's not a show car (so what? - support the club!)

   I don't know about others in other parts of the country but EVERY
British car show I have been to this year has had lower attendance
by 1/2 to 1/3 than the year before. This includes shows in New York,
New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Perhaps this whole "car show"
thing is getting old...

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 28 13:20:25 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:20:25 EDT
Subject: [TR] Jugding & Trophy's
Message-ID: <c02.3e23bed2.35bf75f9@cs.com>

"Delusions are often functional. A motherbs opinions about her childrenbs
beauty, intelligence, goodness, et cetera ad nauseam, keep her from drowning
them at birth."
Robert Heinlein

In a message dated 7/28/2008 2:11:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
wensley_Tr at comcast.net writes:
>
> You guys are digging a deep hole
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com>
> To: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> Cc: "triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 1:47 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Jugding &Trophy's
>
>
> >>Tell a new mother that her baby is ugly and you will have a fight on
> >>your
> >>hands!
> >
> >
> >What if she's ugly too?

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Jul 28 13:46:55 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 20:46:55 +0100
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
References: <ce8.38fd36ca.35be6dd6@aol.com><039e01c8f0b5$78cb37f0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<962D0AEBFAB54527A34C371C5CB0F9BA@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <044101c8f0ea$b161cf90$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Randall wrote:
> If so, try not to be too concerned over the oil pressure reading.  Those
> gauges read to 100 psi over a fairly small sweep of the needle, so the 40
> psi max of a standard Stag motor looks like almost nothing.

Agreed - as I have such an instrument in my own Triumph. But at least its better than the little 
green light coming on to tell you the engine's toast?

Cheers, Jonmac 

From vlm at te-motorworks.com  Mon Jul 28 13:52:53 2008
From: vlm at te-motorworks.com (Vin Marshall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:52:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1217268001.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1217268001.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2956E289-584C-4359-A7A3-9221FFCBB139@te-motorworks.com>

For what it's worth, that is the specified way to bleed the clutch  
hydraulic circuit on my 1988 F-450, and a bleeder screw is not even  
provided.

Definitely not intuitive if you've never encountered it before.  And  
it is dark out.  And you are making a repair on the side of the road.

-vin


> From: "Roger Wilson" <Roger at rw-architect.com>
>> Are you saying to bleed the clutch by pumping it without opening the
>> bleed valve?
>
> That absolutely worked for me after I replaced the clutch slave  
> cylinder on my Miata.  The system had emtied itself out when the  
> old clutch slave cylinder failed.  I bolted in a new clutch slave  
> cylinder, then filled the reservoir.  I sat in the car jumping up  
> and down on the clutch pedal for about ten minutes.  Never did  
> touch the bleed screw.
>
> I had another Miata guy tells me that this cannot happen and I must  
> have a magic car.  I don't think that's true.  :-)
>






--
New TE Shirts at http://telabs.spreadshirt.com

TE Motorworks, Inc.
Post Industrial Laboratory
215-426-1447

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 13:58:38 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:58:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] Crappy Clamps
Message-ID: <c7a.3bee6b76.35bf7eee@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 9:06:35 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

Absolutely none of those crappy bent wire hose clamps that knacker the  hoses 
in three nano-seconds! 
I've specified worm drive type on the grounds  that if they were good enough 
for Rolls Royce, Aston 
Martin, Jaguar and a  few others - they're good enough for me :) What's more, 
if the car does appear  
with them in place when I first meet it, they'll be coming off immediately  :)
 
John,
You mean those famous super grip clamps? I might agree with you on this  one 
and take the 1 pt per clamp, 10 pt total deduction maximum per  car too. 
Especially problematic are all the new manufacture ones.   They don't seem to be 
the right size as original to me.  They always  seem too small or too large and 
slightly different than the  originals.   Anyone else notice this?
 
 Mark my restoration guy had one of the heater hoses on the 3B  double 
clamped with a worm gear clamp for the super grip had bottomed out  without sealing 
the hose. He told me that I could take it off it I wanted  but watch it.  That 
could be and option for you on the Stag.   :) 
 
Cheers,
Darrell





**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 14:13:45 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 16:13:45 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 4ME
Message-ID: <d4b.352cc75a.35bf8279@aol.com>

Hi,
Saw a great looking white TR4 (license plate TR4 4ME) in downtown Napa
California Sunday when we stopped at the fancy pizza restaurant before leaving 
town
around 6pm.. is the owner on our list?
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
**************
Get fantasy football with free live scoring.
Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today.

(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From stonywoods840 at rochester.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 14:23:29 2008
From: stonywoods840 at rochester.rr.com (Larry Rausch)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 16:23:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] parts for small mouth tr3
Message-ID: <F5C52AFFE5054898B78C141C9E2D1C2E@larry>

Looking for source of two parts
first-upper and lower grill molding for small mouth tr3 grill
and second their is a bracket that attaches to the center of the front
apron and back to the center on the round tube on the frame to tie the
apron in place and ,I think,keep it from vibrating. any help would be
appreciated Larry Rausch

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Mon Jul 28 13:19:05 2008
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:19:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs and Trophies
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1217268001.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF7D1C9BC6.1295300D-ON85257494.00676656-85257494.006A202E@gsk.com>

I'm sorry it's a peeve for you, but I've no intention of anyone judging my 
car in a formal way, ever. Its not what I have the car for.

Its a driver, not a show car, and I drive it...errh, at least when I'm not 
rebuilding the engine, as in now.

By the same token, think of the garage queens that exist to garner 
trophies, being trailered between judging events. They probably don't too 
often show up for a decent rally, road trip or AutoX. 

These are two different reasons to allow these cars to own us, and they're 
equally valid.

I'm happy to explain why I don't 'show' my 10-footer (OK, OK, maybe it's a 
20-footer), and its an explanation, not an excuse. Why should I need an 
excuse?

It's definitely NOT about frugality, Dennis.

Looking on the bright side of life (as Brians are wont to do), smaller 
fields could mean more trophies in your car's lair?

If they start offering recognition for the rich patina of loved use, 
rather than whether you've still got the original 17 Pozidrive screws 
under the bonnet, I might change my mind.

Then again.....I'd rather be driving.

Brian
TR4 1963 CT 14455-L
Valley Forge, PA

From: Dennis N Culligan <dncullig at us.ibm.com>

    OK, my car show pet peeve  -  the show-eligible cars left in
the parking lot 'cause the owner is too "frugal" to pay the entry
fee and support the organizing club.  The normal excuses:
1. I'm only going to be here an hour (car is often there all day)
2. My car won't win (neither will MOST of the cars)
3. It's not a show car (so what? - support the club!)

   I don't know about others in other parts of the country but EVERY
British car show I have been to this year has had lower attendance
by 1/2 to 1/3 than the year before. This includes shows in New York,
New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Perhaps this whole "car show"
thing is getting old...

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 14:51:10 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 13:51:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <044101c8f0ea$b161cf90$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <ce8.38fd36ca.35be6dd6@aol.com><039e01c8f0b5$78cb37f0$0201a8c0@Bevan><962D0AEBFAB54527A34C371C5CB0F9BA@jdnet.deere.com>
	<044101c8f0ea$b161cf90$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <B288E07D521144B2BCB66928283FA4A7@jdnet.deere.com>

> But at least its
> better than the little
> green light coming on to tell you the engine's toast?

Well, I would agree if it were only that faint green glow off to the side;
which is easily missed IMO.  But early US-spec Stags also have a large red
light directly in front of the driver, which is hard to miss.

I do like having a gauge (which is why I went to the trouble to add one).
But in my experience, a gradual drop in pressure is almost never the
problem, except over many thousands of miles of operation.  And even then,
the light coming on at hot idle will notify you that it's time for a rebuild
(if you didn't know it already) while the engine is still quite functional.

For example, if you are low on oil, the oil pressure oscillates between
nearly full pressure and nothing; which a big red light is more likely to
communicate than a gauge, IMO.  Likewise, a sudden failure (eg the pump
shaft shearing on my TR3A) is probably communicated faster by something that
grabs your attention, rather than waiting to be periodically scanned.

First time that big red light came on while I was driving my (early US-spec)
Stag, it scared me silly!  Had it just been the oil gauge needle bouncing
off the stop, I likely would not have even noticed it.  And the engine was
not toast at all; just wanted another quart of oil when I reached my
destination.

The TR was also not particularly the worse for wear after it's loss of oil
pressure.  I did change the rod & main bearings since I had to drop the pan
to fix the oil pump; but they were not damaged by lack of oil.  But it was
the change in engine sound that alerted me, rather than the oil pressure
gauge.

BTW, it was also fairly easy to change the Stag's green light to yellow,
which is at least somewhat more likely to be noticed.  The green is just one
more of those things that leaves me wondering "What were those guys
thinking?"

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 15:02:11 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 14:02:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] parts for small mouth tr3
In-Reply-To: <F5C52AFFE5054898B78C141C9E2D1C2E@larry>
References: <F5C52AFFE5054898B78C141C9E2D1C2E@larry>
Message-ID: <56E1C894503F4B6D8B0136CC07B9E13E@jdnet.deere.com>

> first-upper and lower grill molding for small mouth tr3 grill

Those have been like hen's teeth for many years.  If you do find a source,
please let us know.

> and second their is a bracket that attaches to the center of the front
> apron and back to the center on the round tube on the frame to tie the
> apron in place and ,I think,keep it from vibrating.

Are you talking about the hand crank guide?  Small round hole in the "shelf"
behind the grille, with a larger rectangular hole behind it; then two tabs
on the round tube with holes in them?  The guide casting is Moss 802-885,
the rods are 802-995; both are listed on their website.  Also needs some
bolts & nuts, which are common hardware items (or possibly included with the
casting & rods).

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Jul 28 15:32:41 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 17:32:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <B288E07D521144B2BCB66928283FA4A7@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <044101c8f0ea$b161cf90$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <488E02B9.8291.19346105@localhost>

On 28 Jul 2008 at 13:51, Randall wrote:

> But early US-spec Stags also have a large red
> light directly in front of the driver, which is hard to miss.

Same for the Spitfire and GT6+.  The big, red, hard-to-miss brake 
warning light is wired with the oil pressure light.  (And if you 
disconnect the PDWA wire because the PDWA is off-center, the green 
oil pressure light won't work either.)

I added an oil pressure gauge, oh, sorry, guage to the Spitfire a 
long time ago.  I look at it fairly often.  Don't know that it tells 
me much though.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul 28 15:50:25 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 17:50:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] does it need to mesh?
Message-ID: <00c501c8f0fb$f1deff00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I'm awaiting a good reply:

I'm about to begin the process of threading the wires and control head into
the stator tube.

As stated in the Work. Manu., the stator tube was installed with the slot
uppermost and in the 12 o'clock position.  I assume that's because it
eventually seats (or meets up with) some sort of 'tab' (which is hidden from
view due to the steering wheel mounted short-tube.)  I  assume that when the
slot (at 12 o'clock) meshes with the 'tab' (also at 12 o'clock) ensuring that
a turn of the steering wheel also turns the stator tube...right?

I ask this because (if my assumption is correct), then I will need to widen
the slot a little.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 tr3
p.s.  I have another time critical question that I need to
ask!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 811 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jul 28 16:04:27 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:04:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
References: <044101c8f0ea$b161cf90$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<488E02B9.8291.19346105@localhost>
Message-ID: <00c301c8f0fd$e7773300$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

It tells you that not all your oil is on the pavement ........YET!

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 2:32 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TR's


> On 28 Jul 2008 at 13:51, Randall wrote:
> 
> > But early US-spec Stags also have a large red
> > light directly in front of the driver, which is hard to miss.
> 
> Same for the Spitfire and GT6+.  The big, red, hard-to-miss brake 
> warning light is wired with the oil pressure light.  (And if you 
> disconnect the PDWA wire because the PDWA is off-center, the green 
> oil pressure light won't work either.)
> 
> I added an oil pressure gauge, oh, sorry, guage to the Spitfire a 
> long time ago.  I look at it fairly often.  Don't know that it tells 
> me much though.
> 
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr6 at pobox.com  Mon Jul 28 16:17:16 2008
From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 17:17:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <2956E289-584C-4359-A7A3-9221FFCBB139@te-motorworks.com>
References: <mailman.5.1217268001.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<2956E289-584C-4359-A7A3-9221FFCBB139@te-motorworks.com>
Message-ID: <488E456C.4000604@pobox.com>

Wouldn't this depend on how the slave cylinder was situated?  What I 
mean is: which is higher, the bleed screw or the hydraulic line?  On a 
TR6 you can definitely install it either way.  In the 25 years I have 
had mine, the bleed screw has always been on top -- where the bubbles 
should rise.

Now whether that is correct or incorrect, I am not 100% sure.  But I 
have always bled the darn thing by crawling on my belly.  If it could be 
done just as well by pumping and waiting, then I deserve a palm to the 
forehead.

Vin Marshall wrote:
> For what it's worth, that is the specified way to bleed the clutch  
> hydraulic circuit on my 1988 F-450, and a bleeder screw is not even  
> provided.
> 
> Definitely not intuitive if you've never encountered it before.  And  
> it is dark out.  And you are making a repair on the side of the road.
> 
> -vin
> 
> 
>> From: "Roger Wilson" <Roger at rw-architect.com>
>>> Are you saying to bleed the clutch by pumping it without opening the
>>> bleed valve?
>> That absolutely worked for me after I replaced the clutch slave  
>> cylinder on my Miata.  The system had emtied itself out when the  
>> old clutch slave cylinder failed.  I bolted in a new clutch slave  
>> cylinder, then filled the reservoir.  I sat in the car jumping up  
>> and down on the clutch pedal for about ten minutes.  Never did  
>> touch the bleed screw.
>>
>> I had another Miata guy tells me that this cannot happen and I must  
>> have a magic car.  I don't think that's true.  :-)
>>
> 
--
http://SporkInTheEye.blogspot.com/
--
Can any part of life--be larger than life?
Even love must be limited by time
And those who push us down that they
might climb--
Is any killer worth more than his crime?
	Neil Peart, "The Weapon", Signals (1982)

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul 28 16:17:38 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 18:17:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] FROZEN and HOLLOW steering w grub screw
Message-ID: <00cc01c8f0ff$bf1cc6c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

One of the 3 'grub screws' is BOTH FROZEN AND HOLLOW in my half-installed
steering wheel!  Luckily, about 1/8" of it's tip protrudes and shows.  Can it
still work?

Prieviously, I had seen where another grub screw had malfunctioned and thus I
ordered a replacement from Moss.  (The replacement was superior as it was
allen-wrench compatable!)  However, I don't think this present problem can be
remedied with a replacement grub screw.

Obviously, 1/8" of it protruding might be long enough in conjunction with the
other two working 'grub screws'.  I now see the usefullness of the stator tube
plate!

My thinking is 'yes'.  It's at least worth a try.  I think that if I have to
start over, drilling it out and then retapping it that
this process could be attempted with the control head loose in the steering
wheel.
So, I'm diving in!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If anybody thinks otherwise, then give me a quick shout and a good reason not
to run the wires down the stator tube tonight!
thanks,
Paul Dorsey 60 TR3

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 811 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 16:40:31 2008
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 18:40:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
Message-ID: <d04.39faf64a.35bfa4df@aol.com>

My car is also a driver, but I too like to enter in it in the shows I  
attend. It supports the local clubs plus it's usually a good parking space. The  
difference is when I arrive I just get out and find someone to talk to who I  
haven't seen in awhile. No need to polish anything. It really is more about the  
people than the cars.
 
Eric Langreder
71 TR6



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 17:07:09 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 16:07:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] FROZEN and HOLLOW steering w grub screw
In-Reply-To: <00cc01c8f0ff$bf1cc6c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <00cc01c8f0ff$bf1cc6c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <ED89089022B14385824B7FA3F2A9D2F5@jdnet.deere.com>

> One of the 3 'grub screws' is BOTH FROZEN AND HOLLOW in my half-installed
> steering wheel!  Luckily, about 1/8" of it's tip protrudes and shows.  Can
> it still work?

It could happen, but very unlikely IMO.  I think you'll find that the stator
plate does not go back into position between the tip of the grub screw and
the steering wheel; with the result that the grub screws don't hold the
plate securely and hence the canceling mechanism doesn't work.

But I suppose there isn't a lot to lose by trying, so by all means have at
it.

Randall

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Mon Jul 28 17:16:21 2008
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 19:16:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] parts for small mouth tr3
In-Reply-To: <56E1C894503F4B6D8B0136CC07B9E13E@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <F5C52AFFE5054898B78C141C9E2D1C2E@larry>
	<56E1C894503F4B6D8B0136CC07B9E13E@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <488E5345.5070006@frontiernet.net>

There's a piece that goes from center/bottom of the front apron back to 
a part of the frame to stiffen it. I'm pretty sure that's what he's 
talking about.

I think the spare parts catalog refers to it as the Front Apron Stay, 
part number 108480. The Roadster Factory Lists it as NLS, No Longer Stocked.

George Richardson



Randall wrote:
>> first-upper and lower grill molding for small mouth tr3 grill
>>     
>
> Those have been like hen's teeth for many years.  If you do find a source,
> please let us know.
>
>   
>> and second their is a bracket that attaches to the center of the front
>> apron and back to the center on the round tube on the frame to tie the
>> apron in place and ,I think,keep it from vibrating.
>>     
>
> Are you talking about the hand crank guide?  Small round hole in the "shelf"
> behind the grille, with a larger rectangular hole behind it; then two tabs
> on the round tube with holes in them?  The guide casting is Moss 802-885,
> the rods are 802-995; both are listed on their website.  Also needs some
> bolts & nuts, which are common hardware items (or possibly included with the
> casting & rods).

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 17:18:08 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 19:18:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
Message-ID: <bda.2be79b54.35bfadb0@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 1:16:57 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
vlm at te-motorworks.com writes:

For what  it's worth, that is the specified way to bleed the clutch  
hydraulic  circuit on my 1988 F-450, and a bleeder screw is not even   
provided.

Definitely not intuitive if you've never encountered it  before.  And  
it is dark out.  And you are making a repair  on the side of the road.

-vin



I really wonder if its necessary to bleed it at all. What keeps bubbles  from 
rising up to the reservoir? What exactly does "holding the pedal down" do  
anyway besides increase cylinder pressure and make bubbles smaller? I just  
replaced a 1 inch slave on my TR3A yesterday and I haven't bled it at all. I'll  
just drive it and it will take care of itself somehow! (At least it has since  
1964!)
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 17:19:56 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 19:19:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
Message-ID: <c20.40df13f0.35bfae1c@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 7:04:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ElangTR4 at aol.com writes:

My car  is also a driver, but I too like to enter in it in the shows I   
attend. It supports the local clubs plus it's usually a good parking  space. 
The  
difference is when I arrive I just get out and find  someone to talk to who I 
 
haven't seen in awhile. No need to polish  anything. It really is more about 
the  
people than the  cars.

Eric Langreder
71 TR6



Yeah,
And Eric has been known to cop an occasional trophy here and there  too.  
Great guy, he usually gets one of my votes just for being who he  is.
Darrell



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 17:23:09 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 16:23:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <488E456C.4000604@pobox.com>
References: <mailman.5.1217268001.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net><2956E289-584C-4359-A7A3-9221FFCBB139@te-motorworks.com>
	<488E456C.4000604@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <026F7F495BB349C697871E1633350740@jdnet.deere.com>

> Wouldn't this depend on how the slave cylinder was situated?  What I
> mean is: which is higher, the bleed screw or the hydraulic line?

It's my belief that it actually doesn't matter.  When you pump the system up
and hold it, then release the pedal suddenly, the fluid inside the slave
cylinder has more inertia than the air does.  That means the fluid will pile
up against the piston as it moves through the cylinder, forcing the air to
the end where both the bleed valve and the hose are and out the hole to the
hose.  From the air's point of view, the end temporarily becomes the top.

Anyway, my bleed valve is on top; and the procedure works for me.

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 17:24:23 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 19:24:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
Message-ID: <c28.388f151d.35bfaf27@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 4:04:28 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
ElangTR4 at aol.com writes:

It  really is more about the  
people than the cars.

Eric  Langreder
71 TR6




Absolutely!
 
 
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 17:31:38 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 16:31:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] does it need to mesh?
In-Reply-To: <00c501c8f0fb$f1deff00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <00c501c8f0fb$f1deff00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <8F726045D8064CACB735407789049A81@jdnet.deere.com>

> I ask this because (if my assumption is correct), then I will need to
> widen
> the slot a little.

Paul, Don't widen the slot !

You are quite right, the slot mates with a series of dimples in the short
tube that sticks out from the control head and fits over the end of the
stator tube.  You should be able to see the dimples looking at the outside
of the short tube.

However, the dimples need to fit the slot snugly, as otherwise the control
head will wiggle back and forth with each little turn of the steering wheel.
It moves a little bit anyway, but you don't want to make it any worse than
necessary.

What I do is leave the compression nut on the face of the steering box
somewhat loose, and start with the stator tube pushed higher inside the
steering column than usual, so it just barely protrudes from the nut.  That
way I can engage the slot as I start to install the control head, and turn
the head (and the tube with it) until it's "just so".  Then when I'm done
with the installation at the wheel, I finish tightening the nut.

Randall

From vlm at te-motorworks.com  Mon Jul 28 17:36:43 2008
From: vlm at te-motorworks.com (Vin Marshall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 19:36:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <bda.2be79b54.35bfadb0@aol.com>
References: <bda.2be79b54.35bfadb0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0DAB4971-E682-4B4A-AA0C-CA27ACCB6968@te-motorworks.com>

I don't hold the pedal down.  I press and release it a few times.   
Which really is pretty much the same as doing nothing and then driving  
it.

It is my understanding that the bubbles will work their way out just  
by sitting there, but that it may take a  while. Allegedly pumping the  
pedal - and thereby the slave cylinder - makes the process go faster.

That's my understanding of it anyway.

-vin


On Jul 28, 2008, at 7:18 PM, MMoore8425 at aol.com

>
> I really wonder if its necessary to bleed it at all. What keeps  
> bubbles from rising up to the reservoir? What exactly does "holding  
> the pedal down" do anyway besides increase cylinder pressure and  
> make bubbles smaller? I just replaced a 1 inch slave on my TR3A  
> yesterday and I haven't bled it at all. I'll just drive it and it  
> will take care of itself somehow! (At least it has since 1964!)
> Mike Moore
>
>
>
> Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for FanHouse  
> Fantasy Football today.

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 17:40:24 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 19:40:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
Message-ID: <c39.391bcb8c.35bfb2e8@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 4:37:10 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
vlm at te-motorworks.com writes:

I don't hold the pedal down.  I press and release it a few  times.  Which 
really is pretty much the same as doing nothing and then  driving it. 


It is my understanding that the bubbles will work their way out just by  
sitting there, but that it may take a  while. Allegedly pumping the pedal  - and 
thereby the slave cylinder - makes the process go faster. 


That's my understanding of it anyway. 


-vin




That sounds so logical---
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 18:01:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 17:01:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <bda.2be79b54.35bfadb0@aol.com>
References: <bda.2be79b54.35bfadb0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8F693822AB9C43A782F7783FFA71ED11@jdnet.deere.com>

> What exactly does "holding the pedal down" do
> anyway besides increase cylinder pressure and make bubbles smaller?

If there are high spots in the line where air can collect; the pause with
the system "pumped up" allows air to collect in those high spots.  Then
hopefully, when you release the pedal, the relatively large amount of fluid
that rushes from the slave back to the MC will carry the air along with it.

It may not be necessary, depending on how your system is routed;
particularly if you sit with the clutch depressed in traffic.  But I try not
to do that.

Randall

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Jul 28 18:17:16 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 20:17:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <bda.2be79b54.35bfadb0@aol.com>
References: <bda.2be79b54.35bfadb0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080729001712.IQDO7436.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 07:18 PM 7/28/2008, MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote:

>I really wonder if its necessary to bleed it at all. What keeps bubbles  from
>rising up to the reservoir? What exactly does "holding the pedal down" do
>anyway besides increase cylinder pressure and make bubbles smaller?

The bubbles are compressible, the fluif is not.  thus, with too many 
bubbles, the slave cylinder will not fully engage.

>I just
>replaced a 1 inch slave on my TR3A yesterday and I haven't bled it 
>at all. I'll
>just drive it and it will take care of itself somehow!

On my 71/72 Spitfire, the clutch leaked badly to the point that it 
would often empty itself.  I always simply dumped more Castrol LMA 
into it, and gave it a few sharp pumps.  Worked fine, though I reckon 
it could have worked a lot better had I repaired it and then properly 
bled it once.

Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Jul 28 18:39:17 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 00:39:17 +0000
Subject: [TR] FW: Re:  Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <072920080039.25832.488E66B50001F546000064E822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Took 3 years to bring my '59 TR3A back from junkyard status.  I drive it every day it doesn't rain (not a lot these last three weeks).  Still, ...

...frankly, the only trophy I'm interested in is the fingerprints on the hood of fascinated fourteen year olds who discard their everyday disdain to light the world with brilliant toothy smiles and energetic thumbs up.  

Terry
New Hampshire

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> 

> Quoth Randall : 
> > Well, say what you like, but I'm personally not the least bit 
> > interested in being judged for being "correct". Driving and 
> > enjoying the car is my reward. 
> 
> It's come to my attention that some are misinterpreting what I meant to say 
> here ... 
> 
> My point, as always, is that it's YOUR car, it should please YOU. If being 
> "correct" is what you enjoy, then by all means do so. I have no problem at 
> all with people that feel that way; it's just not my cup of tea (so to 
> speak). 
> 
> And I was NOT trying to criticize either the VTR concours or any of the 
> judges. That judge (who I do respect but decline to name except that I 
> don't believe he is on t his list) was doing exactly what he was supposed to 
> do. What fun is a competition where the judges don't follow the rules? 
> 
> I have no problem with the concours competition; it's just not what I enjoy. 
> It's lots of fun to go look at all the beautifully restored cars; but I'd 
> like to listen to a (period incorrect) CD on the way home 
> 
> Randall 

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 28 18:51:27 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 17:51:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] parts for small mouth tr3
In-Reply-To: <F5C52AFFE5054898B78C141C9E2D1C2E@larry>
References: <F5C52AFFE5054898B78C141C9E2D1C2E@larry>
Message-ID: <488E698F.9020207@comcast.net>

Here is the upper piece of the chrome trim: ebay item number: 140252750738

It's already up to $75 with two days left to go. I have been looking for these parts for several years. It always goes for more than I am willing to pay.

Mike

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 19:12:55 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 21:12:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] FW: Re:  Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <d00.385ac9c4.35bfc897@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 5:55:19 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
terryrs at comcast.net writes:

...frankly, the only trophy I'm interested in is the fingerprints on  the 
hood of fascinated fourteen year olds who discard their everyday disdain  to 
light the world with brilliant toothy smiles and energetic thumbs up.   





I love it Terry!  A lot of years ago I had a call from a kid in  Missouri (I 
lived in Illinois) who lived with his mom on a small farm. He was  maybe 14 
years old, and he called to talk to me about an old TR3A he was  "restoring". 
After a few calls,  I was curious and I drove over to see what  was going on.
He had acquired a horribly rusty TR3A with no floors and the bottom 6  inches 
of all panels, including the apron missing. 
He had made new floors using old metal signs. The embossed "Pepsi" I think  
helped stiffen the floors some. He had welded/pop rivited  patch panels on  all 
the panels. The front apron was missing from about halfway down. He had  
welded some rebar and tied chicken wire to it and had fiber glassed it. A really  
pretty neat job. He was scrounging parts everywhere, but had no money to 
spare.  He went in the house and brought me his pride and joy-a brand new TR3A 
grill his  Mom had bought him for Christmas. he rightly pointed out it was 
necessary  to  make the grill opening correct. His mom said she had to pay a parts  
place $500 for it! This was in 1975.
i sometimes wonder how he made out. I think he probably got it done ok. I  
gave himn a fuel tank I had and some other parts.
That car deserves some kind of trophy!
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul 28 19:23:07 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 21:23:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] FROZEN and HOLLOW steering w grub screw
References: <00cc01c8f0ff$bf1cc6c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<ED89089022B14385824B7FA3F2A9D2F5@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <000201c8f119$a8e05650$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

After 3-4 hours of trying to feed the control head wiring into the stator 
tube, I cut the stupid bullet connectors off despite everyone chanting, 
"stagger", "stagger!".  Tomorrow I hope to have success!
Thanks, Paul 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 816 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 19:52:27 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 18:52:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] FROZEN and HOLLOW steering w grub screw
In-Reply-To: <000201c8f119$a8e05650$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080729015227.UZRE4153.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> After 3-4 hours of trying to feed the control head wiring 
> into the stator tube, I cut the stupid bullet connectors off 
> despite everyone chanting, "stagger", "stagger!".  

Paul,

Don't feed them in.  Instead, wrap a length of steel "handy" (aka baling)
wire around the end of the electrical wires and feed it through.  Then use
it to pull the electrical wires through.  Works much easier.  Home Depot,
Lowe's, etc. should have some suitable steel wire for just a few dollars.
And it's a good thing for carrying with you, to reconnect parts that may
fall off during your travels.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul 28 19:56:37 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 21:56:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] speedo cable key?
Message-ID: <001401c8f11e$56ca4ab0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Changing subjects,

this past weekend I tried to hook up my speedometer cable to the speedo gauge.
However, both gauge and cable had female endings!  Seems there may have been a
male 'key' to insert in the cable before tightening it up?  Is this right??
The catalog dosent show one.

Is one needed elsewhere?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 816 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From PACBURROWS at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 20:00:11 2008
From: PACBURROWS at aol.com (PACBURROWS at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 22:00:11 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR-3 transmission plug
Message-ID: <d30.368d8d3a.35bfd3ab@aol.com>

Hi;
I lost one of the two "plugs" from the top of my transmission. I  can't 
figure out what size they are. I know they are 5/8" but the thread count  measures 
out at 13. All I can find is 11 count. Any ideas or does someone have  one I 
can buy from an old trashed transmission.
Paul B
Temecula CA
1957 TR-3 small mouth



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Jul 28 20:35:17 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 22:35:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] speedo cable key?
Message-ID: <cc1.3c6e8957.35bfdbe5@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 7:22:37 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes:

this  past weekend I tried to hook up my speedometer cable to the speedo  
gauge.
However, both gauge and cable had female endings!  Seems there  may have been 
a
male 'key' to insert in the cable before tightening it  up?  Is this right??
The catalog dosent show one.

Is one needed  elsewhere?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60  TR3




You ought to have a male fitting on the speedo and a female on the cable.  
the cable ends ought to be square and fit into a square hole in a shaft in the  
speedo. There is a knurled knob which screws down over the male portion.
 
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 28 20:37:41 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 22:37:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
References: <c28.388f151d.35bfaf27@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002801c8f124$12eae600$b3457247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Dang Right it is !!!!!!!!.  "FT"
==========================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MMoore8425 at aol.com>
To: <ElangTR4 at aol.com>; <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TRs


> In a message dated 7/28/2008 4:04:28 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> ElangTR4 at aol.com writes:
>
> It  really is more about the
> people than the cars.
>
> Eric  Langreder
> 71 TR6
>
>
>
>
> Absolutely!
>
>
> Mike Moore
>
>
>
> **************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for
> FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
> (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr6 at pobox.com  Mon Jul 28 21:37:52 2008
From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 22:37:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] FROZEN and HOLLOW steering w grub screw
In-Reply-To: <20080729015227.UZRE4153.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <20080729015227.UZRE4153.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <488E9090.9000502@pobox.com>

If you have issues, get some wire lube at Lowes/Depot and lube them up 
real good.  Push them through, but use Randall's fish wire to guide them 
and nudge them.  If you really pull, you may stretch the wires... and 
you shouldnt need to.  (It pays to watch the electricians pulling wire 
through conduit.)

Randall wrote:
>> After 3-4 hours of trying to feed the control head wiring 
>> into the stator tube, I cut the stupid bullet connectors off 
>> despite everyone chanting, "stagger", "stagger!".  
> 
> Paul,
> 
> Don't feed them in.  Instead, wrap a length of steel "handy" (aka baling)
> wire around the end of the electrical wires and feed it through.  Then use
> it to pull the electrical wires through.  Works much easier.  Home Depot,
> Lowe's, etc. should have some suitable steel wire for just a few dollars.
> And it's a good thing for carrying with you, to reconnect parts that may
> fall off during your travels.
> 
> Randall

http://SporkInTheEye.blogspot.com
--
all my nerves are naked wires
tender to the touch
sometimes super-sensitive
but who can care too much?
--I get this feeling
Scars of pleasure
Scars of pain
Atmospheric changes
Make them sensitive again
	Neil Peart, "Scars", Presto (1989)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 28 22:21:51 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 21:21:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 transmission plug
In-Reply-To: <d30.368d8d3a.35bfd3ab@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080729042151.BHUW19640.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I lost one of the two "plugs" from the top of my 
> transmission. I  can't figure out what size they are. I know 
> they are 5/8" but the thread count  measures out at 13.

They aren't SAE at all, but some weird metric thread.  M16x2 I think.

> Any ideas or does someone have  one I 
> can buy from an old trashed transmission.

I've definitely got some old lockout switches you can have, if you don't
mind how they look.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul 29 06:19:03 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 08:19:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR-3 transmission plug
Message-ID: <d25.2ecda9f8.35c064b7@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2008 9:37:44 PM Central Daylight Time, 
PACBURROWS at aol.com writes: 
> I lost one of the two "plugs" from the top of my transmission. I  can't 
> figure out what size they are. I know they are 5/8" but the thread count  
> measures 
> out at 13. All I can find is 11 count. Any ideas or does someone have  one I 
> 
> can buy from an old trashed transmission.
> Paul B
> 
Plugs?  Are you referring to the tapped holes for the overdrive interlock 
switches?  If so, I believe they are metric thread.  And they are not tapered.  
Your best bet may be to buy some OD interlock switches and use them to close 
the openings.

Me thinks that some PO has converted that box from O/D at some point (or that 
you actually have an OD box and don't know it).

Dave   

From boggiano at charter.net  Tue Jul 29 06:53:13 2008
From: boggiano at charter.net (Thomas Boggiano (work))
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 08:53:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 - alignment dowels for the big end of the connecting rods
References: <01c501c8ea1b$b027bcf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <001001c8f17a$0febb9b0$bb05d80a@na01.crl.com>

I am looking for a source for the alignment dowels for the big end side of 
the connecting rod. I dont seem to be able to find them. The housing on the 
connecting rods are out of round  in order to resize the big ends correctly 
I need to remove the alignment dowels from the connecting rod caps. In doing 
so it looks like I will damage the dowels and I would like to install some 
new ones. .  They are 9/16 OD X 7/16 ID X .800" O.A.L.

Can the dowels be reused if they are slightly damaged on removal?
Any idea on where to get new ones?


Thanks
Tom 

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jul 29 07:42:16 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 13:42:16 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 4ME
Message-ID: <072920081342.16580.488F1E3800006FC8000040C422165548869D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: CarlSereda at aol.com
> Hi,
> Saw a great looking white TR4 (license plate TR4 4ME) in downtown Napa
> California Sunday when we stopped at the fancy pizza restaurant before leaving 
> town
> around 6pm.. is the owner on our list?

Dunno, but TR44SUE is.  :-)

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From drsandner at embarqmail.com  Tue Jul 29 07:53:34 2008
From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (J SANDNER)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 09:53:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] tr6
Message-ID: <1573360822.16597791217339614111.JavaMail.root@md21.embarq.synacor.com>

listers,
i foud a 1972 tr6 for sale in port jervis NY yesterday.
metalflake maple.
pristine.
80k miles.
rebuilt motor, new rad.
red line tires, needs new tires.
car appears to be a 'puff'.
no shipwrights disease.
(have leftthe business card upstairs) 
contact me off list 
asking $11,800 (i think)
will gladly do an inspection of car for you.
randy sandner
74.5 tr6,
919 607 4405

From pboldtrix at juno.com  Tue Jul 29 08:31:38 2008
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 14:31:38 GMT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <20080729.103138.15414.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>

-- "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:
I added an oil pressure gauge, oh, sorry, guage to the Spitfire a
long time ago.  I look at it fairly often.  Don't know that it tells
me much though.

Jim Muller
Oh no!  Jim...you had it right the first time.  I don't want to sound
crochety, and I know I've posted this before, but the word is G A U G E !
This is beginning to sound like fingernails on a blackboard to me, and I know
I should let it slide, but this word is used a LOT on these lists and it seems
to me that we can certainly do better.  Maybe Jim's spelling is tongue in
cheek, like "fluif" --  the result of a long ago typo.  If so, I must be the
only one not in on the joke.
   I know spelling is everyone's bugaboo, but somehow this is really pushing
my button!  Time to don the Nomex suit.
Phil Bacon, 72 TR6


____________________________________________________________
Spend time in gorgeous Hong Kong. Click now for great vacation packages!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/Ioyw6iifDLxoRfMUTF341uFwvGiUiLFbL
IjJJ4aniX5WjKe7dl7Nbj/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 29 08:50:38 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 07:50:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 - alignment dowels for the big end of the connecting
 rods
In-Reply-To: <001001c8f17a$0febb9b0$bb05d80a@na01.crl.com>
Message-ID: <20080729145037.BNTD4153.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> in order to resize the big ends correctly I need to 
> remove the alignment dowels from the connecting rod caps. 

Have you thought about just sourcing some used rods that aren't distorted ?

Sorry, no idea about where to find those hollow dowels, short of having them
custom made.  But I don't think they are very hard, so making them shouldn't
be too difficult.

Randall

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 29 09:01:34 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 11:01:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] speedo cable key?
In-Reply-To: <cc1.3c6e8957.35bfdbe5@aol.com>
References: <cc1.3c6e8957.35bfdbe5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0807290801q8a42216wc250f6dc87614418@mail.gmail.com>

Paul --

What number appears on the face of your speedo just below the trip
odometer numbers?

What you describe does not sound like a TR3 unit.

On 7/28/08, MMoore8425 at aol.com <MMoore8425 at aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 7/28/2008 7:22:37 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes:
>
> this  past weekend I tried to hook up my speedometer cable to the speedo
> gauge.
> However, both gauge and cable had female endings!  Seems there  may have
> been
> a
> male 'key' to insert in the cable before tightening it  up?  Is this right??
> The catalog dosent show one.
>
> Is one needed  elsewhere?
>
> Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60  TR3
>
>
>
>
> You ought to have a male fitting on the speedo and a female on the cable.
> the cable ends ought to be square and fit into a square hole in a shaft in
> the
> speedo. There is a knurled knob which screws down over the male portion.
>
> Mike Moore
>
>
>
> **************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for
> FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
> (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as ahwahnee18 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 29 09:02:14 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 08:02:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 transmission plug
In-Reply-To: <d25.2ecda9f8.35c064b7@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20080729150214.YFUX18001.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Me thinks that some PO has converted that box from O/D at 
> some point (or that you actually have an OD box and don't know it).

Earlier gearboxes came with the holes already drilled, and brass plugs; even
if the car did not have OD.  Made it easier for the dealers to add OD.

Randall

From a241blr63 at earthlink.net  Tue Jul 29 09:08:05 2008
From: a241blr63 at earthlink.net (a241blr63 at earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 08:08:05 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <16349914.1217344085623.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Normally, I wouldn't complain about not winning an award at a car show because there are always so many nice cars, and the competition is stiff. I've had judges come up to me afterward and tell me that I came within a hair's breadth of winning, and that can be pretty satisfying. I've come home with a few awards.

But what the heck:

Now then, it's one thing to lose on your car's merits, but it's another thing to lose due to the sloppy and unprofessional management of the judging. And yes, I'm going to name names, but only because the organizer was Moss Motors, and one would think they'd know better.

Last year at the Moss British Extravaganza at Buttonwillow, I attended with my TR, and participated in the car show. All the owners voted on their favorite in each particular class. Half way through the judging, the management decided one car was in the wrong class, so it was moved into mine. I can't say for sure what effect this had on the votes, but it gets better. When the judging period was nearly complete, someone asked me "Do you know another car has the same number?" I went to look, and sure enough, it was true.

Of course, I was sure that the judges would want to know about this right away, so that they could rectify the situation. Their answer was, "Here's a pen, change the number." I thought maybe they'd make announcement about the number change, and suggest people check their ballot sheets one more time before they turn them in. No such luck.

I can understand mistakes happen. The woman passing out the numbers that morning clearly had never done anything like that before. What sticks in my craw is how completely unapologetic the Moss people were, almost to the point of rudeness. I know that "judges decisions are final," but they're not infallible. They acted like it was my fault. They could have earned my trust and respect if they had simply taken me aside, admitted their mistake, apologized, and invited me to try again next year.

I know what you're thinking: "Boo-hoo-hoo! Sore Loser!" Well, yeah, I admit that. I was just going to forget about it until this thread brought it back up. Sorry to be such a downer.

Bryan "Bitter, table for one..." Reese

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 29 09:13:13 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 08:13:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <20080729.103138.15414.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20080729.103138.15414.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0807290813u55ed298pffc17ab1f3ecd823@mail.gmail.com>

Sit down... take a deep breath... relax.

Murdering the English language and Webster's spelling is pretty much
par for the course on this and almost any list.  Bugs me too but I
somehow get past it.

As someone once said: "This is something up with which Edwin Newman
would not put".

Geo

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Tue Jul 29 09:45:49 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 11:45:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
In-Reply-To: <c20.40df13f0.35bfae1c@aol.com>
References: <c20.40df13f0.35bfae1c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W26F3E07733C71A1268ABDBA5820@phx.gbl>

At the TRA National meet in 2000, I think, (it was in Bushkill, PA) the
registration form contained three choices for show category:

1. Concours d'elegance

2. Participants' Choice

3. Just glad my car made it

Of course I checked #3.

In 2009, when Mason-Dixon TRA hosts the National Meet, I would like to bring
Category 3 back. I don't judge, nor do I want to be judged.

By the way, when I bought my TR3 in 1980, showing it was the last thing on my
mind for which to use the car. When I joined TRA, I thought that they would do
track days, autocross, rallies, time trials, things like that. I was very
surprised to find that Concours d'elegance was the primary, not to say sole,
purpose of the club.

John H.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Jul 29 10:07:22 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 12:07:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <20080729.103138.15414.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <488F07FA.16666.1D30E5D4@localhost>

On 29 Jul 2008 at 14:31, Phil Bacon wrote:

> Oh no!  Jim...you had it right the first time
> Maybe Jim's spelling is tongue in cheek, like "fluif"

Oh no!  Phil...you had it right the second time
Indeed Jim's spelling was tongue in cheek, like "fluif"

I thank you for your concern but I assure you, I can spel just fine, 
usaully foregoing a spellchucker completely.  I can't always tpye 
though, and sometimes I may accidentally a word out.  But it is 
morally imperative not to turn down an opportunity to remind the 
world once again of the existence of fluif, even if indirectly by 
applying a similar creativity to a different automotive-related word.

Break fluif?  Forsooth!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Jul 29 10:17:46 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 09:17:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
References: <488F07FA.16666.1D30E5D4@localhost>
Message-ID: <006501c8f196$a385c320$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Is there any end to the "fluif" continuum?

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TR's


> On 29 Jul 2008 at 14:31, Phil Bacon wrote:
> 
> > Oh no!  Jim...you had it right the first time
> > Maybe Jim's spelling is tongue in cheek, like "fluif"
> 
> Oh no!  Phil...you had it right the second time
> Indeed Jim's spelling was tongue in cheek, like "fluif"
> 
> I thank you for your concern but I assure you, I can spel just fine, 
> usaully foregoing a spellchucker completely.  I can't always tpye 
> though, and sometimes I may accidentally a word out.  But it is 
> morally imperative not to turn down an opportunity to remind the 
> world once again of the existence of fluif, even if indirectly by 
> applying a similar creativity to a different automotive-related word.
> 
> Break fluif?  Forsooth!
> 
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul 29 10:43:32 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 12:43:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR-3 transmission plug
Message-ID: <bc4.2b963a2d.35c0a2b4@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/29/2008 10:02:29 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> Earlier gearboxes came with the holes already drilled, and brass plugs; 
> even
> if the car did not have OD.  Made it easier for the dealers to add OD.
> 
Too bad they didn't continue that policy.  I went to three machine shops 
before I found one that had metric taps (that was the late 80's).

Dave   

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 29 10:48:27 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 09:48:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <006501c8f196$a385c320$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
References: <488F07FA.16666.1D30E5D4@localhost>
	<006501c8f196$a385c320$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <CB5032CE1513438A8920F191D1F35940@jdnet.deere.com>

> Is there any end to the "fluif" continuum?

Apparently not ...

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul 29 11:04:00 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 13:04:00 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 plugs
Message-ID: <c51.335d6056.35c0a780@cs.com>

Dave done said:
**************
-In a message dated 7/29/2008 10:02:29 AM Central Daylight Time, 
-tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 

> -Earlier gearboxes came with the holes already drilled, and brass plugs; 
> even


> -if the car did not have OD. Made it easier for the dealers to add OD.
> 
-Too bad they didn't continue that policy. I went to three machine shops 
before I found -one that had metric taps (that was the late 80's).

Dave 
*************

BTW I fitted my TR6 box with both switches but elected to not use second gear 
so one I am using one switch as a plug.  They do just fine at that.

Dave   

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 29 11:05:15 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 10:05:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 transmission plug
In-Reply-To: <bc4.2b963a2d.35c0a2b4@cs.com>
References: <bc4.2b963a2d.35c0a2b4@cs.com>
Message-ID: <07DA9CF28FBE491B94EB27B9F0E7CA27@jdnet.deere.com>

> Too bad they didn't continue that policy.

I'm not certain offhand, but I think it was part of the general cost
reduction program undertaken when Leyland took over.  Lots of other brass
items were deleted or substituted with less expensive; like door hinges,
fuel tap, etc.

>  I went to three machine shops
> before I found one that had metric taps (that was the late 80's).

Advantage of living near Shaky Town I guess; I just walked into a tool store
(in the early 80's) and bought one.  Back then they even had Whitworth
sockets ... wish I'd bought a bunch of them instead of just one set.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Jul 29 11:12:04 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 13:12:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <CB5032CE1513438A8920F191D1F35940@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <006501c8f196$a385c320$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <488F1724.11658.1D6C23C8@localhost>

On 29 Jul 2008 at 9:48, Randall wrote:

> > Joe wrote:
> > Is there any end to the "fluif" continuum?
> 
> Apparently not ...

Od cuorse not ...

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul 29 11:21:27 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 13:21:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR-3 transmission plug
Message-ID: <c8f.2e2650ed.35c0ab97@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/29/2008 12:05:27 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> >Too bad they didn't continue that policy.
> 
> I'm not certain offhand, but I think it was part of the general cost
> reduction program undertaken when Leyland took over.  Lots of other brass
> items were deleted or substituted with less expensive; like door hinges,
> fuel tap, etc.
> 
It's obvious that not drilling and tapping the holes and installing plugs 
saves money over not doing so.  Considering how few cars were equipped with OD it 
was probably cheaper to tend to this detail only on the cars so equipped 
separately.  At some point it was determined that swapping out transmissions was 
cheaper than dismantling and rebuilding with O/D.

Dave    

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul 29 11:33:27 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 13:33:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <cea.3afb349e.35c0ae67@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/29/2008 12:12:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:
> On 29 Jul 2008 at 9:48, Randall wrote:
>
> >>Joe wrote:
> >>Is there any end to the "fluif" continuum?
> >
> >Apparently not ...
>
> Od cuorse not ...
>
>
This is Joe's legacy.  In spite of shoehorning a Honda S2000 motor into a
Spitfire (and doing a marvelous job of it), in spite of all the windshield
decals
and in spite of all the cloisonni' grill badges, everyone will think of Joe
and remember "Fluif."

Dave

From steven at newellboys.net  Tue Jul 29 12:05:21 2008
From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 12:05:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
In-Reply-To: <BLU143-W26F3E07733C71A1268ABDBA5820@phx.gbl>
References: <c20.40df13f0.35bfae1c@aol.com>
	<BLU143-W26F3E07733C71A1268ABDBA5820@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <488F5BE1.8040204@newellboys.net>

John Herrera wrote:

>At the TRA National meet in 2000, I think, (it was in Bushkill, PA) the
>registration form contained three choices for show category:
>
>1. Concours d'elegance
>2. Participants' Choice
>3. Just glad my car made it
>
>Of course I checked #3...
>
Okay, I'm going to do it. I'll enter the next brit-car show here in 
Colorado. But inspired by the Goodwood feature on TV the other day, I'm 
going to do a diorama. I'll buy a bale of hay and take a couple birds 
nests my boys have collected, and then recreate an authentic barn find. 
That way I can use my worn out interior, undetailed engine, and unwashed 
exterior to greatest advantage. Check back in late September for photos 
of my Participants' Choice trophy!

Please share with me your ideas for most authentic barn find details...

Steven Newell
Littleton, CO USA

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Jul 29 12:17:23 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 11:17:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
References: <c20.40df13f0.35bfae1c@aol.com><BLU143-W26F3E07733C71A1268ABDBA5820@phx.gbl>
	<488F5BE1.8040204@newellboys.net>
Message-ID: <008201c8f1a7$5940a3a0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Bird Crap!  Lots of  Bird Crap!

Joe

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steven Newell" <steven at newellboys.net>
To: "triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TRs


> John Herrera wrote:
> 
> >At the TRA National meet in 2000, I think, (it was in Bushkill, PA) the
> >registration form contained three choices for show category:
> >
> >1. Concours d'elegance
> >2. Participants' Choice
> >3. Just glad my car made it
> >
> >Of course I checked #3...
> >
> Okay, I'm going to do it. I'll enter the next brit-car show here in 
> Colorado. But inspired by the Goodwood feature on TV the other day, I'm 
> going to do a diorama. I'll buy a bale of hay and take a couple birds 
> nests my boys have collected, and then recreate an authentic barn find. 
> That way I can use my worn out interior, undetailed engine, and unwashed 
> exterior to greatest advantage. Check back in late September for photos 
> of my Participants' Choice trophy!
> 
> Please share with me your ideas for most authentic barn find details...
> 
> Steven Newell
> Littleton, CO USA
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Jul 29 12:25:33 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 14:25:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
In-Reply-To: <008201c8f1a7$5940a3a0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <488F285D.5462.1DAF66B7@localhost>

On 29 Jul 2008 at 11:17, Joe Curry wrote:

> Bird Crap!  Lots of  Bird Crap!

That's easy.  Paint your car a dark color and polish it enough, and 
the birds will find you.  The darker and nicer, the better.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From PACBURROWS at aol.com  Tue Jul 29 15:52:02 2008
From: PACBURROWS at aol.com (PACBURROWS at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:52:02 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 tranny PLUGS
Message-ID: <c1b.39595532.35c0eb02@aol.com>

Hi everyone.
I guess I caused confusion. These two bolts/plugs are on the very top part  
of the transmission. They are forward of the shifting handle. They are  
approximately 5/8 in. in length and unbolt using a 15/16 in socket. I don't know  if 
they are part of the overdrive lockouts. Please excuse my ignorance but did  
they use metric in 1957? 
Thanks
Paul



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From PACBURROWS at aol.com  Tue Jul 29 15:54:46 2008
From: PACBURROWS at aol.com (PACBURROWS at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:54:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] update to tranny bolts
Message-ID: <d19.2d5b4ca0.35c0eba6@aol.com>

Hi again
I wanted to clarify the measurements I have. The bolt is 5/8 in long. Fits  a 
5/8 in hole. Requires a 15/16 socket to come off and has a thread count of  
13.  I triple checked the thread count
Paul



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Tue Jul 29 15:55:46 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:55:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 4ME
Message-ID: <c8f.2e2cddf6.35c0ebe2@aol.com>

hmm.. bet you're related!

<< > Hi, Saw a great looking white TR4 (license plate TR4 4ME) in downtown Napa
> California Sunday when we stopped at the fancy pizza restaurant before
leaving
> town around 6pm.. is the owner on our list?

Dunno, but TR44SUE is.  :-) >>

**************
Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.

(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Tue Jul 29 16:34:32 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:34:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
Message-ID: <ceb.3ce88add.35c0f4f8@aol.com>

Just got to wade in on the trophy & TR party to say that I thoroughly enjoy 
the "show and shine" of a proper British Car show preferably a single marque.  
In choosing between the Participant Choice and the Concours, I will take the 
Concours providing there is a standardized guide or competent judges.  In 
Participant Choice, unless you have an exceptional car in your class, there is no 
way to get on the podium with friends trading votes.

Thrashing my car around cones is not my bag cause I gotta drive it home!

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana


**************
Get fantasy football with free live scoring. 
Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 29 16:40:13 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 15:40:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 tranny PLUGS
In-Reply-To: <c1b.39595532.35c0eb02@aol.com>
References: <c1b.39595532.35c0eb02@aol.com>
Message-ID: <A33342681C404CC3AA28B6EF2238233A@jdnet.deere.com>

> These two bolts/plugs are on the very top part
> of the transmission. They are forward of the shifting handle. They are
> approximately 5/8 in. in length and unbolt using a 15/16 in socket. I
> don't know  if
> they are part of the overdrive lockouts.

Paul, check out the diagram at
http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6bluebook/83.php

It shows both the plug you are talking about (ref CL27), and the switch that
goes in those holes when you have overdrive (ref CL32).

> Please excuse my ignorance but
> did they use metric in 1957?

There are a very few other examples of metric threads on the car, like the
studs that hold the instruments to the panel.  Believe it or not, metric
threads were defined as early as 1898, but the British car industry (much
like the American industry) was slow to adopt them.

There are also a few examples of obsolete (even then) British Association
threads on the car, like the carb fittings and the "Lift the Dot" studs
(with machine threads).

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Jul 29 16:40:13 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:40:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Navel Jelly
In-Reply-To: <059001c8f1ca$c6ff3140$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <488F640D.24988.1E988F9E@localhost>

On 29 Jul 2008 at 23:30, John Macartney wrote:

> Doug, ya gotta be joking! Navel or naval - or is this another
> Joe Curry "fluif"?

Orange you glad you asked?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Jul 29 17:10:03 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:10:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 clevis pin
Message-ID: <003401c8f1d0$3c7bff70$fd943b44@DCS78M81>

Anyone have a source for two new or used clevis pins that attach the master
cylinder push rods to the pedals? The usual sources don't have them. I know I
had new ones for "my TR3" but haven't sourced them for the "new car".
TIA
Tom
60 TR3A
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Jul 29 17:16:33 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:16:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 clevis pin
In-Reply-To: <003401c8f1d0$3c7bff70$fd943b44@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <488F6C91.14071.1EB9D3FA@localhost>

On 29 Jul 2008 at 19:10, THOMAS FANSHER wrote:

> Anyone have a source for two new or used clevis pins that attach
> the master cylinder push rods to the pedals?

ISTR that I got some from Home Depot.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Jul 29 17:32:32 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:32:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Bow webbing
Message-ID: <bc8.354fb457.35c10290@aol.com>

Hey guys,
As always there are those last minute panics when you have a Triumph you  
want to show that just arrived fresh from someone attempting to restore  it.  
Right now the TR3B has no top.  The top bow webbing has decided  to take a major 
crap for it did not like just sitting there on the top frame for  two years, I 
GUESE!  Now with a couple days to go I will have to undertake  a rewebbing 
job. I have done it before but I would appreciate any wisdom the  List can 
offer.  Parts from TRF should arrive Friday I hope.
Darrell



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From auprichard at comcast.net  Tue Jul 29 18:09:48 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 20:09:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] to re-core or not to re-core
In-Reply-To: <488F285D.5462.1DAF66B7@localhost>
References: <008201c8f1a7$5940a3a0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
	<488F285D.5462.1DAF66B7@localhost>
Message-ID: <FAC799D04DBB4476BD520CD35DAC80C2@DCH6RFC1>

I am doing a complete restoration on a '59 TR3A.  The original radiator held
water under pressure, but I was advised to re-core it anyway, as there would
likely be cold spots from grunge deemed unextractable after 50 years, and it
is easier to do now than when the car is back together.

So I did (get it re-cored, that is)

Good decision or a waste of money ?

Andrew Uprichard
'62 TR3B restored 
'59 TR3A on its way

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Tue Jul 29 18:35:19 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:35:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] update to tranny bolts
Message-ID: <410-22008733003519280@earthlink.net>

Paul,

Yes, there are metric threads used on some places on a 1957 TR3. A typical
5/8 bolt will measure .620 inch diameter and a M16 bolt will measure .625
(allowing for some rounding of the thread form so it dose not have sharp
pointed threads). The thread pitch on a bolt with 13 threads to the inch
will be .0769 (1/13of an inch), while .0787 will be the inch equivalent of
a bolt with 2mm pitch. Very close indeed, but not equal, and M16 x  2.0 is
a common metric size.

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6 (with the same metric threads)
1980 TR8 (all metric threads. I think)
Osseo, MN    .


> Subject: [TR] update to tranny bolts
>
> Hi again
> I wanted to clarify the measurements I have. The bolt is 5/8 in long.
Fits  a 
> 5/8 in hole. Requires a 15/16 socket to come off and has a thread count
of  
> 13.  I triple checked the thread count
> Paul

From steven at newellboys.net  Tue Jul 29 19:00:05 2008
From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:00:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
In-Reply-To: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106C40CAE88@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>
References: <c20.40df13f0.35bfae1c@aol.com>
	<BLU143-W26F3E07733C71A1268ABDBA5820@phx.gbl>
	<488F5BE1.8040204@newellboys.net>
	<5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106C40CAE88@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>
Message-ID: <488FBD15.1090304@newellboys.net>

Jim Holmgren wrote:

>Make sure you go to the grocery/pet store and buy some of those little stuffed toy mice that are supposed to be cat toys.  That way you can build a replica mouse-nest in/under a seat!
>
Very nice! Luckily the vinyl is cracked and the stuffing is coming out 
through the top of the seat bottoms, so I could have little toy mice 
peeking out.

Steven

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Jul 29 19:00:14 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 21:00:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] to re-core or not to re-core
References: <008201c8f1a7$5940a3a0$2d02a8c0@Belkin><488F285D.5462.1DAF66B7@localhost>
	<FAC799D04DBB4476BD520CD35DAC80C2@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <001e01c8f1df$a06d0740$fd943b44@DCS78M81>

In my opinion, good decision.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 8:09 PM
Subject: [TR] to re-core or not to re-core


>I am doing a complete restoration on a '59 TR3A.  The original radiator 
>held
> water under pressure, but I was advised to re-core it anyway, as there 
> would
> likely be cold spots from grunge deemed unextractable after 50 years, and 
> it
> is easier to do now than when the car is back together.
>
> So I did (get it re-cored, that is)
>
> Good decision or a waste of money ?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> '62 TR3B restored
> '59 TR3A on its way

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Jul 29 19:03:56 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 21:03:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 clevis pin
References: <003401c8f1d0$3c7bff70$fd943b44@DCS78M81>
	<488FBC5C.3050603@newellboys.net>
Message-ID: <003301c8f1e0$24e7f9d0$fd943b44@DCS78M81>

Thanks, but on a 3 it's a "screw in" clevis pin, called a "screw pin" by 
Moss.. but is unobtainable in the U.S.  Maybe I got the last two at 
Stoneleigh -- may have to make another trip for another set ;^)
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steven Newell" <steven at newellboys.net>
To: "THOMAS FANSHER" <tfansher at comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 clevis pin


> THOMAS FANSHER wrote:
>
>>Anyone have a source for two new or used clevis pins that attach the 
>>master cylinder push rods to the pedals? The usual sources don't have 
>>them. I know I had new ones for "my TR3" but haven't sourced them for the 
>>"new car".
>>TIA
>>
> I found matching sized clevis pins at my local ACE hardware after striking 
> out at Home Depot.
>
> Steven 

From tr6parts at charter.net  Tue Jul 29 19:12:53 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 21:12:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 wheels
Message-ID: <00cd01c8f1e1$64b68d00$d44a9e18@alan>

I was wondering if anyone knew if there was enough room to fit a 17 inch wheel
with a 4.4 back spacing on a TR6.

thanks

Al

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Jul 29 19:40:49 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 21:40:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
Message-ID: <d20.34146c17.35c120a1@aol.com>

Hey folks,
Taking the alternative view that car shows are cool.  I always  liked the 
idea of giving awards for best paint, best interior and best  underhood.  
Especially during a Judges Choice competition. It sort of  spreads some  extra awards 
around and the guys that win are  really happy about it :)!  I first saw that 
at a Canadian Classic years  ago.  You know in their heyday those folks 
really knew how to do it.   There was this loose requirement for originality but 
showmanship really was the  order of the day.  
 
Anyone from the Toronto Triumph Club on the List? BTW, who among us  
remembers the olden days of consecutive TRA National Meetings, Canadian  Classics, VTR 
NATC's, TRF Summer Party's and finally 6 PACK Trials?  Always  in that order 
during the Endless Triumph Summers. Those were the days  of car shows, folks.  
If you missed those it is like being a child of  the sixties and not going to 
Woodstock.
Darrell 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue Jul 29 20:25:10 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 22:25:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
Message-ID: <d33.3729947e.35c12b06@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/29/2008 6:41:47 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
TR250Driver at aol.com writes:

Hey  folks,
Taking the alternative view that car shows are cool.  I  always  liked the 
idea of giving awards for best paint, best interior  and best  underhood.  
Especially during a Judges Choice  competition. It sort of  spreads some  
extra awards 
around and  the guys that win are  really happy about it :)!  I first saw 
that  
at a Canadian Classic years  ago.  You know in their heyday  those folks 
really knew how to do it.   There was this loose  requirement for originality 
but 
showmanship really was the  order of  the day.  

Anyone from the Toronto Triumph Club on the List? BTW,  who among us  
remembers the olden days of consecutive TRA National  Meetings, Canadian  
Classics, VTR 
NATC's, TRF Summer Party's and  finally 6 PACK Trials?  Always  in that order 
during the Endless  Triumph Summers. Those were the days  of car shows, 
folks.  
If  you missed those it is like being a child of  the sixties and not going  
to 
Woodstock.
Darrell 





A good idea!  We used to give awards at our club shows sometimes for  things 
as bizarre as:
 
Best Diptstick- Dipstick had to be laying on a piece of newspaper spread in  
front  of car for judging
 
Best Sounding Horn
 
Best looking jack
 
etc etc.
 
It was always a surprise what would be judged, but we always had small  
engraved plaques for the winners.
 
 
Mike Moore 



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 29 20:48:12 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:48:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 tranny PLUGS
In-Reply-To: <A33342681C404CC3AA28B6EF2238233A@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <c1b.39595532.35c0eb02@aol.com>
	<A33342681C404CC3AA28B6EF2238233A@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0807291948y26aade51ge9e106f0a5ba1a04@mail.gmail.com>

Or perhaps this will help (gearbox w/ lockouts in place)...

http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/OD-Cover.JPG

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 29 20:59:50 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:59:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <cea.3afb349e.35c0ae67@cs.com>
References: <cea.3afb349e.35c0ae67@cs.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0807291959g49e2cedahf8d3b2a01257b9bb@mail.gmail.com>

I just checked the Arizona MVD website for personalized plates and
found that 'FLUIF' is still available.

Geo

On 7/29/08, Dave1massey at cs.com <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> This is Joe's legacy.  In spite of shoehorning a Honda S2000 motor into a
> Spitfire (and doing a marvelous job of it), in spite of all the windshield
> decals
> and in spite of all the cloisonni' grill badges, everyone will think of Joe
> and remember "Fluif."

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 29 21:03:54 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 20:03:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Bow webbing
In-Reply-To: <bc8.354fb457.35c10290@aol.com>
References: <bc8.354fb457.35c10290@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0807292003g799d072eu93fbc650cd891920@mail.gmail.com>

Here are the instructions from my Amco top of many years past...

http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/top-webbing.GIF

Should only be used as a general guideline as final fitting (I think)
is more trial & error than an exact science.

I usually use a length of rope thru the mid-point of the bows, looping
it around each bow to sort of secure it, then dial in the fit.

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Jul 29 21:06:03 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 20:06:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0807291959g49e2cedahf8d3b2a01257b9bb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cea.3afb349e.35c0ae67@cs.com>
	<7bb181af0807291959g49e2cedahf8d3b2a01257b9bb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5A28B174F3964FCDB795876F105360DA@newcomputer>

They don't make Personalized plates in the historic vehicle style.

The plates on Tiny Tim read "FMG9".  I leave that to your own imagination to
figure out what that means.

Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo
Hahn
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 8:00 PM
To: Dave1massey at cs.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TR's

I just checked the Arizona MVD website for personalized plates and
found that 'FLUIF' is still available.

Geo

On 7/29/08, Dave1massey at cs.com <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> This is Joe's legacy.  In spite of shoehorning a Honda S2000 motor into a
> Spitfire (and doing a marvelous job of it), in spite of all the windshield
> decals
> and in spite of all the cloisonni' grill badges, everyone will think of
Joe
> and remember "Fluif."
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From emanteno at comcast.net  Tue Jul 29 21:08:28 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 03:08:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] to re-core or not to re-core
Message-ID: <073020080308.14389.488FDB2C00082AD8000038352200734364970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net> 

> I am doing a complete restoration on a '59 TR3A. The original radiator held 
> water under pressure, but I was advised to re-core it anyway, as there would 
> likely be cold spots from grunge deemed unextractable after 50 years, and it 
> is easier to do now than when the car is back together. 
> 
> So I did (get it re-cored, that is) 
> 
> Good decision or a waste of money ? 

Your core was 50 years old. Mine, in my TR6, was 29 years old when it started to leak and I had it re-cored. IMHO, you spent your money wisely.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 29 21:40:44 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 20:40:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] to re-core or not to re-core
In-Reply-To: <FAC799D04DBB4476BD520CD35DAC80C2@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <20080730034045.BMPP14026.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> So I did (get it re-cored, that is)
> 
> Good decision or a waste of money ?

I spent over a year chasing overheating problems on my TR3A; that turned out
to be entirely caused by an original radiator that held and flowed water
just fine, but had lousy thermal efficiency.  Apparently the tubes were no
longer in good thermal contact with the fins, so the heat didn't flow to the
fins to be conducted to the air.  Even worse than having no fins at all!

IMO you made the right decision.

Randall

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue Jul 29 21:59:53 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net)
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 21:59:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20506.1217380355.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.20506.1217380355.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <64F32864-E9B5-401D-A129-79563318E235@telus.net>

ohh a ton of chicken s**t, a nest with a couple of eggs, lots of  
mouse droppings, a mouse poking his head out of the exhaust pipe, 4  
flat tires, no shift knob, spider webs, just the usual crap. : >
On 29-Jul-08, at 7:12 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Please share with me your ideas for most authentic barn find  
> details...

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jul 30 05:46:00 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 07:46:00 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <c09.3fc6ffa3.35c1ae78@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/29/2008 10:00:04 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ahwahnee18 at gmail.com writes: 
> I just checked the Arizona MVD website for personalized plates and
> found that 'FLUIF' is still available.
> 
You should have grabbed it.  Now there will be a run on that personalized 
plate.  ;-)

Dave   

From tbe749 at aol.com  Wed Jul 30 06:03:14 2008
From: tbe749 at aol.com (tbe749 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 08:03:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
In-Reply-To: <488F5BE1.8040204@newellboys.net>
References: <c20.40df13f0.35bfae1c@aol.com>
	<BLU143-W26F3E07733C71A1268ABDBA5820@phx.gbl>
	<488F5BE1.8040204@newellboys.net>
Message-ID: <8CAC053612502E8-1630-676@WEBMAIL-MC14.sysops.aol.com>

Take off a fender or 2.and rest it on body of car

Bodge some of your wiring
Empty that box of spare parts in your boot through interior and boot

Deflate tires

Animal droppings of course

Spread dust all over inside and out
Some Fall leaves and twigs would be nice
And finally set the parking brake


Tom Beaver
Indy


-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Newell <steven at newellboys.net>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 2:05 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TRs





Please share with me your ideas for most authentic barn find details...

Steven Newell
Littleton, CO USA

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Wed Jul 30 06:31:40 2008
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 08:31:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
In-Reply-To: <488F5BE1.8040204@newellboys.net>
References: <c20.40df13f0.35bfae1c@aol.com>
	<BLU143-W26F3E07733C71A1268ABDBA5820@phx.gbl>
	<488F5BE1.8040204@newellboys.net>
Message-ID: <6F5C44FA-3D35-4260-A4B4-9BBC98208BD2@blakedischer.com>

On Jul 29, 2008, at 2:05 PM, Steven Newell wrote:
> Please share with me your ideas for most authentic barn find  
> details...


I think a very authentic touch that would wow the judges would be a  
(fake of course) stuffed, decomposing (somewhat bloated), possum in  
the boot.  These guys apparently go somewhere deserted and isolated  
when they know they're about to leave this green earth.  How do I know?

About three years ago, one decided a good place to die would be in our  
home's craw space, at the point farthest from the access door.  Mid  
summer.  Hot.  Humid.  Stink.  The entire house, stink.  We're looking  
for a small mouse INSIDE the house.  Come up with nothing.  Then it  
hits us.  Something in the crawl.

We grab the Maglite, spy him in that far corner, bloated to twice the  
size he was when he was living his happy life.  I don't fit under the  
crawl.  My dad doesn't fit.  Wife does.  Wife is shrewd negotiator.   
She dons my coveralls, grabs a shovel, struggles and crawls on her  
stomach to get to the now very dead, very fly covered, very smelly  
critter.  Shouting expletives I didn't know she knew with each foot of  
progress.  After what seemed an eternity, success.  It's extricated.

Her negotiated reward?  A pair of diamond earrings.  Wears them  
everyday.  Hopes for more dead possums.  I've sealed the one tiny  
entry point it must have used. 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 30 07:21:53 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 08:21:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
References: <c20.40df13f0.35bfae1c@aol.com><BLU143-W26F3E07733C71A1268ABDBA5820@phx.gbl><488F5BE1.8040204@newellboys.net>
	<6F5C44FA-3D35-4260-A4B4-9BBC98208BD2@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <004d01c8f248$80b6cd50$56a7a8c0@garage.local>

how about a family of racoons?

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 30 08:48:36 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 14:48:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 clevis pin
In-Reply-To: <003401c8f1d0$3c7bff70$fd943b44@DCS78M81>
References: <003401c8f1d0$3c7bff70$fd943b44@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W461FD163F334C240643820E57D0@phx.gbl>

Try the following link and scroll down through their list or search the
catalogue for your exact dimensions.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=999600109

Best regards,
Tom

> From: tfansher at comcast.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:10:03 -0400
> Subject: [TR] TR3 clevis pin
>
> Anyone have a source for two new or used clevis pins that attach the master
> cylinder push rods to the pedals? The usual sources don't have them. I know
I
> had new ones for "my TR3" but haven't sourced them for the "new car".
> TIA
> Tom
> 60 TR3A
> 61 TR3A
> 62 TR4
> 73 Stag
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Time for vacation? WIN what you need- enter now!
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergiveaway/?ocid=tag_jlyhm

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 30 08:53:59 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 14:53:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 wheels
In-Reply-To: <00cd01c8f1e1$64b68d00$d44a9e18@alan>
References: <00cd01c8f1e1$64b68d00$d44a9e18@alan>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W54FC188776AE8DD128BDD7E57D0@phx.gbl>

It might work.  However, I have 4.5' offset on a pair of 14" wheels and that
causes interference with the ball joints if mounted on the front.  The 17"
diameter may give you enough clearance.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: tr6parts at charter.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 21:12:53 -0400
> Subject: [TR] TR6 wheels
>
> I was wondering if anyone knew if there was enough room to fit a 17 inch
wheel
> with a 4.4 back spacing on a TR6.
>
> thanks
>
> Al
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Time for vacation? WIN what you need- enter now!
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergiveaway/?ocid=tag_jlyhm

From steven at newellboys.net  Wed Jul 30 08:55:46 2008
From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 08:55:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
In-Reply-To: <8CAC053612502E8-1630-676@WEBMAIL-MC14.sysops.aol.com>
References: <c20.40df13f0.35bfae1c@aol.com>
	<BLU143-W26F3E07733C71A1268ABDBA5820@phx.gbl>
	<488F5BE1.8040204@newellboys.net>
	<8CAC053612502E8-1630-676@WEBMAIL-MC14.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <489080F2.6090203@newellboys.net>

tbe749 at aol.com wrote:

> Take off a fender or 2.and rest it on body of car
> Bodge some of your wiring
> Empty that box of spare parts in your boot through interior and boot
> Deflate tires
> Animal droppings of course
> Spread dust all over inside and out
> Some Fall leaves and twigs would be nice
> And finally set the parking brake

The last is brilliant, Tom. Makes me wonder how I'll get the clutch to 
seize up? How about a crate of parts that belong to a completely 
different kind of car? Other crates of old coke bottles and family 
"treasures"?

Steven

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Wed Jul 30 10:02:36 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 09:02:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] overdrive isolator switches
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E4FC73A@kb1.mossmotors.com>

OK, the TR4 workshop manual says, "Fit the isolator switches and washers
to the top cover supplied in the kit.  Alternatively, drill and tap two
16mm. x 2mm. pitch holes in the existing cover..."


Peter Arakelian

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Wed Jul 30 10:03:43 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 09:03:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0807300903430.16785@hymn33.u.washington.edu>

>Please share with me your ideas for most authentic barn find details...
>
>Steven Newell
>Littleton, CO USA

   I was at the All British Field Meet in Bellevue this past weekend, and there was an early Jaguar made out to look like a barn find (which it may well have been).  Along with hay and pitchforks, they had several stuffed chickens on display - both inside and outside of the car!
   And yes, I did show my car, knowing I wouldn't win... I mostly just wanted to photograph it amongst the other TR's.  :)

-Nick Wolf
1961-ish TR4
2000 New Beetle TDI
Seattle, WA

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Wed Jul 30 10:17:25 2008
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 12:17:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spinal Tappets, Trophies and TRs
Message-ID: <9E646BE5-32E1-4B6F-A33A-DBFA289D2767@blakedischer.com>

I just received the new CD that the committee for the 2008 NATC  
commissioned from the Spinal Tappets.  Each person attending will  
receive one in their Welcome Packet.  It's fantastic!  A total of 11  
tracks, six of them brand new.

The Spinal Tappets will perform at the Welcome Party Tuesday night as  
part of their Farewell Tour (yet again!)

Thought this passage of "Grinding Through the Gears" (to the tune of  
Steely Dan's "Reeling in the Years") with parody lyrics by Bob Streepy  
was appropriate to the "Trophies and TRs" thread:

I've been telling you you're a showcar since I bought you in '81,
In all the time I've owned you, I don't know if you'll run,
The VTR convention didn't turn out like you planned,
The things that pass for concours, I can't understand.

Other great tracks:
"While my TR Gently Leaks" and "Gearbox" (to the tune of the Who's   
"Squeezebox")

Great stuff.  Very, very well done.

Cheers,
Blake

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jul 30 10:41:18 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 16:41:18 +0000
Subject: [TR] Spinal Tappets, Trophies and TRs
Message-ID: <073020081641.15354.489099AE000824F600003BFA22155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com>
> I just received the new CD that the committee for the 2008 NATC  
> commissioned from the Spinal Tappets.  Each person attending will  
> receive one in their Welcome Packet.  It's fantastic!  A total of 11  
> tracks, six of them brand new.

I am SO bummed that I can't be at the convention this year.

Where can I send the money for the new CD?

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jul 30 11:03:01 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 17:03:01 +0000
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <073020081703.22437.48909EC5000814AF000057A522155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> They don't make Personalized plates in the historic vehicle style.

Move to Minnesota.  :-)

Christmas 2000 gift to my wife:  Collector plates TR44SUE.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jul 30 11:04:21 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 10:04:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
References: <073020081703.22437.48909EC5000814AF000057A522155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002c01c8f266$504d7a60$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Seems to me that moving to Minnesota just to get a personalized Historic
plate is poor economics!

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>; "'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>;
<Dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TR's


> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> > They don't make Personalized plates in the historic vehicle style.
>
> Move to Minnesota.  :-)
>
> Christmas 2000 gift to my wife:  Collector plates TR44SUE.
>
> --
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata
C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jul 30 11:22:29 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 17:22:29 +0000
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <073020081722.21348.4890A3550006B8200000536422155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> Seems to me that moving to Minnesota just to get a personalized Historic
> plate is poor economics!

Now you're getting all *practical* on us.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Wed Jul 30 11:43:50 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 13:43:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] Spinal Tappets, Trophies and TRs
Message-ID: <c6c.2d2229db.35c20256@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/30/2008 11:18:26 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com writes:

It's fantastic!  A total of 11  
tracks, six of them brand  new.


Hey Blake,
Do they take requests?  Tell them I would like to request "Don't  Worry Baby" 
 by the Beach Boys as a warm up for the  Autocross.
 
" I guess I should  keep my mouth shut when I start to brag about  my car.  
But I can't back down now since I pushed the other guys too  far.  She makes me 
come alive and makes me want to drive when she  says:  Don't worry Baby, 
Everything will come out All Right"
 
Cheers,
Darrell







**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jul 30 12:05:35 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 11:05:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
References: <073020081722.21348.4890A3550006B8200000536422155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003e01c8f26e$ddabb040$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

I didn't even mention the "practical" part of the equation.   I HATE SNOW!
:)

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>; "'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>;
<Dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TR's


> From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> > Seems to me that moving to Minnesota just to get a personalized Historic
> > plate is poor economics!
>
> Now you're getting all *practical* on us.
>
> --
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata
C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jul 30 12:15:09 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 18:15:09 +0000
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <073020081815.9841.4890AFAD00006E770000267122155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> I didn't even mention the "practical" part of the equation.   I HATE SNOW!

The snow doesn't bother me a bit. It's the &*#% SALT!

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jul 30 12:13:54 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 11:13:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
References: <073020081815.9841.4890AFAD00006E770000267122155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004c01c8f270$07178520$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Move down here where they don't have to salt the roads!  :)

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>; "'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>;
<Dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TR's


> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> > I didn't even mention the "practical" part of the equation.   I HATE
SNOW!
>
> The snow doesn't bother me a bit. It's the &*#% SALT!
>
> --
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata
C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jul 30 12:19:13 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 18:19:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
Message-ID: <073020081819.23927.4890B0A1000B66FE00005D7722155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> Move down here where they don't have to salt the roads!  :)

Good idea, but I have a City job and it would be a hell of a commute.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 30 12:23:21 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 11:23:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
In-Reply-To: <004c01c8f270$07178520$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
References: <073020081815.9841.4890AFAD00006E770000267122155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<004c01c8f270$07178520$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0807301123n46f72cd4u4910cdcfcf4e7e0d@mail.gmail.com>

They salt the roads in Minnesota???

I thought the only correct use of salt was for Margaritas.

Geo


On 7/30/08, Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:
> Move down here where they don't have to salt the roads!  :)
>
> Joe

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jul 30 12:44:54 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 11:44:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
References: <073020081819.23927.4890B0A1000B66FE00005D7722155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <005401c8f274$5b79dba0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Maybe it would be better for me to move.  I am losing my job Aug 15.  I
could cast my vote for Al Franken!  :)

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>; "'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>;
<Dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TR's


> From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> > Move down here where they don't have to salt the roads!  :)
>
> Good idea, but I have a City job and it would be a hell of a commute.
>
> --
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata
C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jul 30 12:45:15 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 11:45:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TR's
References: <073020081815.9841.4890AFAD00006E770000267122155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><004c01c8f270$07178520$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
	<7bb181af0807301123n46f72cd4u4910cdcfcf4e7e0d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005a01c8f274$68151780$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Indeed!  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Trophys & TR's


> They salt the roads in Minnesota???
> 
> I thought the only correct use of salt was for Margaritas.
> 
> Geo
> 
> 
> On 7/30/08, Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:
> > Move down here where they don't have to salt the roads!  :)
> >
> > Joe
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Jul 30 19:15:35 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 01:15:35 +0000
Subject: [TR] to re-core or not to re-core
Message-ID: <073120080115.29800.48911237000A2D650000746822165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

> > So I did (get it re-cored, that is) 
> > 
> > Good decision or a waste of money ? 

I'm sure it was a good decision.  I had my '59 tested too, after it had sat for 30 years in a shed in Ossinnee, NY.  Tested fine. so I simply soaked it in Simple Green for several days, reverse flushed several times until it ran clear.  Have been running the original radiator for a few years now with no hint of an overheating problem.  Then, this is NH and overheating is a rare dream even for a young man.  Note:  Apparently salt had not damaged the fins. 
Terry
New Hampshire

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Wed Jul 30 19:46:35 2008
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 20:46:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spinal Tappets, Trophies and TRs
In-Reply-To: <073020081641.15354.489099AE000824F600003BFA22155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <073020081641.15354.489099AE000824F600003BFA22155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <abb8688a0807301846k4db90bafhc0bd4a064b41fdab@mail.gmail.com>

We were not able to attend NATC this year, but we enjoyed thier
performance at VTR in Rockford a few years ago.  Does any one know if
it will be possible to purchase the Spinal Tappets CD after the
convention?

John Innis
Cedar Rapids, IA
"Murphy" 1976 Spitfire 1500 "Road and Track"

On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 11:41 AM,  <pethier at comcast.net> wrote:
> From: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com>
>> I just received the new CD that the committee for the 2008 NATC
>> commissioned from the Spinal Tappets.  Each person attending will
>> receive one in their Welcome Packet.  It's fantastic!  A total of 11
>> tracks, six of them brand new.
>
> I am SO bummed that I can't be at the convention this year.
>
> Where can I send the money for the new CD?
>
> --
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as jdinnis at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown =
=================================

From auprichard at comcast.net  Wed Jul 30 20:07:58 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 22:07:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] to re-core or not to re-core
In-Reply-To: <073120080115.29800.48911237000A2D650000746822165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <073120080115.29800.48911237000A2D650000746822165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <9F1018990618453F8D6C3A7994B21B2B@DCH6RFC1>

My grandfather smoked 3 packs a day all his life and died of old age in his
late eighties, but as a physician I know that he was one of the lucky few.
I guess with the radiator I just played the odds.  But thanks to everyone
who replied - to the distribution list and 1:1.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 9:16 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] to re-core or not to re-core

> > So I did (get it re-cored, that is) 
> > 
> > Good decision or a waste of money ? 

I'm sure it was a good decision.  I had my '59 tested too, after it had sat
for 30 years in a shed in Ossinnee, NY.  Tested fine. so I simply soaked it
in Simple Green for several days, reverse flushed several times until it ran
clear.  Have been running the original radiator for a few years now with no
hint of an overheating problem.  Then, this is NH and overheating is a rare
dream even for a young man.  Note:  Apparently salt had not damaged the
fins. 
Terry
New Hampshire
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Jul 30 20:23:16 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 22:23:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] to re-core or not to re-core
Message-ID: <c6e.25c070f7.35c27c14@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/30/2008 7:08:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
auprichard at comcast.net writes:

My  grandfather smoked 3 packs a day all his life and died of old age in  his
late eighties, but as a physician I know that he was one of the lucky  few.
I guess with the radiator I just played the odds.  But thanks to  everyone
who replied - to the distribution list and 1:1.

Andrew  Uprichard



Andrew,
 
I have spent the last few weeks working closely with an elderly  (86) year 
old uncle, (whose parents and siblings all lived well into the  90's) . 
He has dementia, paranoia, and is simply awful to deal with. 
 
He makes me wonder why I ever quit r drinking and smoking!
 
 
 
Mike Moore 
 
(changing voltage regulators on a TR3 is good  therapy!)



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From auprichard at comcast.net  Thu Jul 31 04:36:25 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 06:36:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] to re-core or not to re-core
In-Reply-To: <c6e.25c070f7.35c27c14@aol.com>
References: <c6e.25c070f7.35c27c14@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B0EB4E9C38CA473EA1C80907B5EA54EF@DCH6RFC1>

Alzheimer's is right up there with Lou Gehrig's as one of the very worst
diseases, only in Alzheimer's it's more a disease of the caregivers - they
are the ones who suffer most.

 

Andrew

 

  _____  

From: MMoore8425 at aol.com [mailto:MMoore8425 at aol.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 10:23 PM
To: auprichard at comcast.net; terryrs at comcast.net; Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] to re-core or not to re-core

 

In a message dated 7/30/2008 7:08:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
auprichard at comcast.net writes:

My grandfather smoked 3 packs a day all his life and died of old age in his
late eighties, but as a physician I know that he was one of the lucky few.
I guess with the radiator I just played the odds.  But thanks to everyone
who replied - to the distribution list and 1:1.

Andrew Uprichard

Andrew,

 

I have spent the last few weeks working closely with an elderly (86) year
old uncle, (whose parents and siblings all lived well into the 90's) . 

He has dementia, paranoia, and is simply awful to deal with. 

 

He makes me wonder why I ever quit r drinking and smoking!

 

 

 

Mike Moore 

 

(changing voltage regulators on a TR3 is good therapy!)





  _____  

Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up
<http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020>  for
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 31 07:11:40 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 09:11:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Are Electric Pumps Going To Be Necessary
Message-ID: <001e01c8f30e$f88ad940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

List,

I received the following comment in an email today: "That said, several
articles I have read lately claim that the fuels today that use chemicals to
replace lead and do often contain ethanol are much more susceptible to vapor
lock in low-pressure, non-EFI systems.  Maybe it would be prudent to go ahead
and wrap the fuel line and verify no other issues he mentions before cutting
into the fuel line.  I still believe that the electric pump will some day be
necessary.  I see most antique US cars, be they restorations or street rods,
running electric pumps for sure fuel delivery in all conditions.  Since we all
have to run the same gas, must we all not expect the same issue?"

I've never seen this issue discussed on the Triumph List. Does it exist? Or is
someone trying to sell electric fuel pumps. Personally, I've never seen any
evidence of this problem, even among my Texas TR friends.

Ed Woods

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Jul 31 07:46:53 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 14:46:53 +0100
Subject: [TR] Are Electric Pumps Going To Be Necessary
References: <001e01c8f30e$f88ad940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Ed

Interesting article. Personally, I've never come across this problem in terms of modern fuels 
causing pumping problems per se.
However, what I *have* encountered many times is a failure of rubber (for want of a better word) 
components in the fuel system itself. In non-injection cars, I've seen many mechanical pump failures 
where the chemical mix in unleaded fuels is well known to attack those components that ran happily 
for years on leaded. This is a real problem on Triumph fuel injection cars and the only way round it 
is to do a full service exchange on the metering unit, low pressure return lines and pressure relief 
valve. However, its clear that unleaded fuel (as a generic) seems to come in different complexions 
in terms of additives used and what we have in the UK may not be the same as in the US. I do know 
that when unleaded was first introduced in New Zealand some years ago at the same time as leaded was 
banned, there were horrendous problems with the fuel itself causing breakdowns everywhere and 
nothing to do with valve seat recession.
IMHO, if this issue worries you and your mechanical pump seems to be working OK, either leave it 
alone or replace the *rubber* parts with neoprene units which are known (in the UK anyway) to be 
completely unaffected by unleaded.
FWIW ....

Jonmac

Randall may have another view?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 31 08:44:05 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 07:44:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Are Electric Pumps Going To Be Necessary
In-Reply-To: <005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <001e01c8f30e$f88ad940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <C04D5AA40A994D3C8ADC308C87B935E7@jdnet.deere.com>

> Randall may have another view?

No, not this time <g>

There do seem to be some issues, with some older cars, running the ethanol
mix that is currently mandated in the US.  However, the problems rarely seem
to be vapor lock as such (fuel boils in the lines before the pump) and more
often boiling between the pump and the jets; leading to things like hard
starting or erratic idle when hot.  Electric pumps are not going to help
with that problem.

However, Joe Alexander is offering carburetor heat shields for TR3-6 that do
seem to be helpful; on cars that do have a problem.  Electric radiator fans
can also help (by lowering underhood temperatures).

It's my opinion that the US ethanol mandate is a really bad idea; and that
most likely our leaders will realize that soon and do away with it.  So,
unless you are having severe problems today (mine were never enough to
really worry about, other than changing the rubber components), doing
nothing seems to be the prudent course of action.  If your mechanical pump
does fail, rebuild it with a new (not NOS) diaphragm as anything made in the
last 10 years or so should be appropriately resistant to modern fuels.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Jul 31 09:15:52 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 15:15:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] Are Electric Pumps Going To Be Necessary
Message-ID: <073120081515.18237.4891D7280001A6210000473D22165258069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

I have not had a lot of vapor-lock problems with the TR4.  Stock mechanical fuel pump.

I did have vapor-lock problems on hot days with my Midget, which had a Facet electric fuel pump.

I think the more-important factors were fuel-line routing and the facts that the Midget was black and the TR4 white.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Thu Jul 31 09:39:40 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 08:39:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fuel additives
Message-ID: <008e01c8f323$a5a380a0$6701a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

Reading thru the posts recently on how the chemical compounds in fuel is
changing and causing issues from vapor lock to rapid deterioration of fuel
system components, I wondered if there have been any serious studies done by
VTR or any other local / national club?

 

Also, I've been running my 1 yr old TR4a with the highest octane I can find
and adding lead substitute in every tank fuel. Assuming you didn't convert
to lead-free valves during the head rebuild, what's everyone else running?

 

Brian

1967 TR4a

Reached 1,000 miles since I finished the resto!

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Thu Jul 31 09:57:54 2008
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 11:57:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] NATC Blog Now Live
Message-ID: <AC85C3CB-46B7-431A-8347-AF5E56107CE9@blakedischer.com>

Good afternoon,

The 2008 North American Triumph Challenge blog is now available for  
reading and commenting at http://www.vtr.org/2008blog/ .

Noted automotive journalist Richard Truett will head up a team that  
will be posting to the blog. If you are attending the event, you are  
invited to post as well; Richard is looking for a few  contributors  
that can help with written content.  You can post via email so it's  
super simple to add items.

Please email webmaster at vtr.org  to arrange posting access.

Cheers,
Blake Discher, President
VINTAGE TRIUMPH REGISTER

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 31 10:11:36 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 09:11:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fuel additives
In-Reply-To: <008e01c8f323$a5a380a0$6701a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <008e01c8f323$a5a380a0$6701a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <17D169A10C26420E88EF8F9AF7ABCCDD@jdnet.deere.com>

> Also, I've been running my 1 yr old TR4a with the highest octane I can
> find
> and adding lead substitute in every tank fuel. Assuming you didn't convert
> to lead-free valves during the head rebuild, what's everyone else running?

Ironically enough, I never used lead substitute with the original valve
seats on my TR3A, and never had a problem.  But when I had a head redone
with hardened seats, THEN I had a problem!  (Most likely caused by the
racing valve springs I installed at the same time.)

My point (and advice) is to save your money and don't use a lead substitute.
Chances are very good that you'll never have a problem with seat recession;
and if you do, you'll have saved enough money to cover most if not all the
cost of upgrading the seats.

Even with severe recession going on, I drove the car daily for several years
and many thousands of miles.  I knew I had recession because I had to adjust
the valves every 2-3000 miles to keep it running smoothly, but it wasn't a
problem otherwise until I started to run out of adjustment ... 

Randall

From maya2blue at juno.com  Thu Jul 31 11:38:01 2008
From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 12:38:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spitfire alternator solution found
Message-ID: <20080731.123802.4844.3.maya2blue@juno.com>

Greetings all,

Sometime ago, I asked the lists for some info regarding replacing the
alternator on my '78 Spitfire.  

Thanks to all that replied.

Okay -- 

The following is an unabashed recommendation for this outfit. 

NFI, etc etc -- just a pleased customer!

I decided to purchase a "plug and play" alternator that simply drops in
and replaces the original Lucas. The 43 amp alternator was "designed and
manufactured specifically as a direct replacement for use with Triumph
Spitfire 1973-1980 and the TR8 (w/o AC, 43 amp) 1978-1981. One year
manufacturer warranty and complete satisfaction is guaranteed."

I paid US$99.90 (shipped and insured) to laynlow1 on eBay. Item number
150274416199

For a non-wrench guy like me, this was great. I corresponded with  Gary @
770-781-5658  several times and could not have been more pleased with
everything. 

Again, No Financial Interest, just a pleased customer.

Feel free to mention my name and the listserve if you decide to buy from
him.

Thanks again to everyone who helped.

Harve


Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
72701 USA 
479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
____________________________________________________________
Click here and choose from thousands of high quality used cars.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oE0bgd4Wn5AdT9pozJ9krxu9pB4f4z4Id1WO2aMI9oWaldP/

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Jul 31 12:11:06 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 11:11:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spitfire alternator solution found
References: <20080731.123802.4844.3.maya2blue@juno.com>
Message-ID: <003601c8f338$cd96f640$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

So Who is the manufacturer of said Alternator?   And why did you not go with
the Bosche which is also a plug and play replacement byt delivers 55 amps?

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <maya2blue at juno.com>
To: <nass at yahoogroups.com>; <NASS-club at yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfires at autox.team.net>; <SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>;
<Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2008 10:38 AM
Subject: [TR] Spitfire alternator solution found


> Greetings all,
>
> Sometime ago, I asked the lists for some info regarding replacing the
> alternator on my '78 Spitfire.
>
> Thanks to all that replied.
>
> Okay -- 
>
> The following is an unabashed recommendation for this outfit.
>
> NFI, etc etc -- just a pleased customer!
>
> I decided to purchase a "plug and play" alternator that simply drops in
> and replaces the original Lucas. The 43 amp alternator was "designed and
> manufactured specifically as a direct replacement for use with Triumph
> Spitfire 1973-1980 and the TR8 (w/o AC, 43 amp) 1978-1981. One year
> manufacturer warranty and complete satisfaction is guaranteed."
>
> I paid US$99.90 (shipped and insured) to laynlow1 on eBay. Item number
> 150274416199
>
> For a non-wrench guy like me, this was great. I corresponded with  Gary @
> 770-781-5658  several times and could not have been more pleased with
> everything.
>
> Again, No Financial Interest, just a pleased customer.
>
> Feel free to mention my name and the listserve if you decide to buy from
> him.
>
> Thanks again to everyone who helped.
>
> Harve
>
>
> Harve Thorn          (NASS #79)
> 531 Amen Corner   ('78 1500 Spitfire)
> Fayetteville, AR    (looking for a "nice" GT6)
> 72701 USA
> 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here and choose from thousands of high quality used cars.
>
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oE0bgd4Wn5AdT9pozJ9krxu9pB4f4z4Id1WO2aMI9oWaldP/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 31 12:23:23 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 11:23:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fuel additives
In-Reply-To: <17D169A10C26420E88EF8F9AF7ABCCDD@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <008e01c8f323$a5a380a0$6701a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
	<17D169A10C26420E88EF8F9AF7ABCCDD@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0807311123t202c3705g2484c7a9d377e451@mail.gmail.com>

I never used lead substitutes and finally had significant recession
that prompted me to have the TR4 head done with the inserts.

Had driven many years w/o a problem but then did a 1000+ mile weekend
that was mostly what the manual calls 'fast road work'.  The speed
limit out here is 75 mph so I will leave it to your imagination how
fast that roadwork was.

It wasn't a problem, got home fine.  A routine valve lash check
revealed the recession.

Anyway, my opinion is that it's okay to wait and see what happens
unless the head is off for other work anyway.

As for premium fuel, that is a different matter that gets into
compression and what is needed to control pinging/pinking.  I do use
premium in the TR4.

From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com  Thu Jul 31 13:38:23 2008
From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 15:38:23 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [TR] Differential Gear Oil
Message-ID: <18945640.1217533103425.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

What is the best gear oil to use in a TR6 differential. I am considering synthetic Mobil 75-90W. Any opinions pro or con?

Doug Nelson
74TR6

-----Original Message-----
>From: Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
>Sent: Jul 31, 2008 2:23 PM
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel additives
>
>I never used lead substitutes and finally had significant recession
>that prompted me to have the TR4 head done with the inserts.
>
>Had driven many years w/o a problem but then did a 1000+ mile weekend
>that was mostly what the manual calls 'fast road work'.  The speed
>limit out here is 75 mph so I will leave it to your imagination how
>fast that roadwork was.
>
>It wasn't a problem, got home fine.  A routine valve lash check
>revealed the recession.
>
>Anyway, my opinion is that it's okay to wait and see what happens
>unless the head is off for other work anyway.
>
>As for premium fuel, that is a different matter that gets into
>compression and what is needed to control pinging/pinking.  I do use
>premium in the TR4.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>You are subscribed as dmnlaw at peoplepc.com
>
>http://www.team.net/archive


________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Thu Jul 31 14:20:27 2008
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 16:20:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
Message-ID: <c39.3988714e.35c3788b@aol.com>

From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> Seems to me that  moving to Minnesota just to get a personalized Historic
> plate is poor  economics!

Now you're getting all *practical* on us.

--
Phil  Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA


Maybe Ohio would be a better deal. We've had vanity historic plates for a  
few years now too.
 
Eric
71 TR6



**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.      
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Thu Jul 31 14:43:25 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 16:43:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Theme at this years Triumphest
Message-ID: <380-220087431204325915@M2W009.mail2web.com>

Hey guys, is there a theme at this years Triumphest?  There is usually
some sort of theme and this year the wife wants to knowjust in case -

Barry Schwartz
San Diego, CA

--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider -
http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 31 15:50:56 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 17:50:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trophys & TRs
In-Reply-To: <c39.3988714e.35c3788b@aol.com>
References: <c39.3988714e.35c3788b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0807311450v28083797ld115888bc66ba03b@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone know how Triumph chose paint colors for its TR2 to TR8 lineup.
Was it done by the styling team, executive team, by some committee??


-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967
1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 31 15:52:33 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 17:52:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR paint colors/colours - who decided at Triumph?
Message-ID: <a11dceec0807311452t64fb7ac9k6699ed29c6f0d315@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone know how Triumph chose paint colors for its TR2 to TR8 lineup.
Was it done by the styling team, executive team, by some committee??
-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967
1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Thu Jul 31 15:52:48 2008
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 21:52:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] Theme at this years Triumphest
Message-ID: <073120082152.25090.48923430000A5D810000620222007510909D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net>

Absolutely. It's Triumph Travelers 50th birthday celebration. Friday night will be a 50's party, so tell the wife to get her poodle skirt out of moth balls.

Check: http://www.triumphtravelers.org/Events/Triumphest08/TRfest08Home.php 
for more details.
Bob


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "v6spitfireguy at cox.net" <v6spitfireguy at cox.net>
> Hey guys, is there a theme at this years Triumphest?  There is usually
> some sort of theme and this year the wife wants to knowjust in case -
> 
> Barry Schwartz
> San Diego, CA
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider -
> http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as kinderlehrer at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 31 16:57:19 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 15:57:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Differential Gear Oil
In-Reply-To: <18945640.1217533103425.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <18945640.1217533103425.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <3ADA36CC72524C80A45A24233F950D12@jdnet.deere.com>

> What is the best gear oil to use in a TR6 differential.

A matter of opinion; I don't believe there is any clear "best" as long as it
meets both MT-1 and GL4 or GL5.

> I am considering
> synthetic Mobil 75-90W. Any opinions pro or con?

Probably fine.  But a recent experience with Mobil 1 engine oil has
convinced me to stick with Valvoline full synthetic.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=58

Randall

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 31 18:51:58 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 17:51:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR paint colors/colours - who decided at Triumph?
In-Reply-To: <a11dceec0807311452t64fb7ac9k6699ed29c6f0d315@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a11dceec0807311452t64fb7ac9k6699ed29c6f0d315@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0807311751k7ecde9ccn694f1402af47cef5@mail.gmail.com>

The story I have heard from more than one source was that in the early
years Sir John Black's wife selected the color schemes.  The story
goes on to note that she was colour-blind.

Well who knows, but it made a nice story and does account for such
things as Olive Green, Geranium and Targa Purple.

I am fairly certain that the early cars were not available in red.
Cal Sales in Southern California would actually respray some of the
new cars in red to be able to sell them.  Standard finally got the
message and added Signal Red to the spectrum.

Geo


On 7/31/08, Ted <triumph66 at gmail.com> wrote:
> Does anyone know how Triumph chose paint colors for its TR2 to TR8 lineup.