From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Jan 1 08:10:21 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 15:10:21 -0000 Subject: [TR] You and your car - are one year older Message-ID: <008d01c84c88$6ded4a70$0201a8c0@Bevan> For all listers A very Happy New Year to all. You were designed to last a long time, rust will never affect you though wear in critical joints of your driveline might raise its ugly head - with the passage of time. Take comfort that while you may be aging (just a little) it's nothing short of a miracle that your Triumph is still with you. Remember, it was never in the wildest nightmares of those who designed and made it that it would last this long. Enjoy - and if I can borrow a Land Rover advertising slogan here "one life, live it!" Cheers all, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 1 09:01:03 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2008 16:01:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <010120081601.26088.477A63BE000ED9FA000065E822070032019D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the eighth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me Eight heart-shaped waffles Seven Lotus Sevens Six Jimmy Clark gloves FIVE MINILITES Four Hoosier slicks Three Italian air horns Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Jan 1 09:47:47 2008 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 10:47:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Shoulder belts for TR4A Message-ID: <000f01c84c96$0a653770$6501a8c0@idea.com> Listers, Can anyone recommend a good source for excellent (and by "excellent" I mean preventing bodies from slamming into the dash during a collision) seat belts, with shoulder straps, for a TR4A. I am in the body work phase of restoration and now is the time to drill the holes for the new shoulder anchor points. So, I need to choose something in order to get the holes in the proper place and size. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins Kennedale, Texas 1965 Triumph TR4A (CTC 63569LO) http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 1 09:57:47 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 11:57:47 EST Subject: [TR] Valve numbering tr6 Message-ID: In a message dated 12/31/2007 10:35:14 PM Central Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > >In Triumph cars (unlike my former Lotus Europa!) the number one > >cylinder is towards the front of the car. > > That's because your Europa's engine was in the wrong end of the car. > Then, 'splain why Jaguar numbered their cylinders from the rear? Dave From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jan 1 10:02:33 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 10:02:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Valve numbering tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000f01c84c98$1a3a0890$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Different strokes for different folks? Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 9:58 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Valve numbering tr6 In a message dated 12/31/2007 10:35:14 PM Central Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > >In Triumph cars (unlike my former Lotus Europa!) the number one > >cylinder is towards the front of the car. > > That's because your Europa's engine was in the wrong end of the car. > Then, 'splain why Jaguar numbered their cylinders from the rear? Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 1 10:05:24 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 12:05:24 EST Subject: [TR] Valve numbering tr6 Message-ID: In a message dated 1/1/2008 11:02:46 AM Central Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > Different strokes for different folks? > I guess since there are four of them why should everyone use the same one? From jhassall at blacksburg.net Tue Jan 1 10:09:32 2008 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2008 09:09:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] Shoulder belts for TR4A In-Reply-To: <000f01c84c96$0a653770$6501a8c0@idea.com> References: <000f01c84c96$0a653770$6501a8c0@idea.com> Message-ID: <477A73CC.8050306@blacksburg.net> Guy D. Huggins wrote: > Listers, > > Can anyone recommend a good source for excellent (and by "excellent" I mean > preventing bodies from slamming into the dash during a collision) seat > belts, with shoulder straps, for a TR4A. > I am in the body work phase of restoration and now is the time to drill the > holes for the new shoulder anchor points. So, I need to choose something in > order to get the holes in the proper place and size. > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins Guy, I've had very good success (although test data :-) ) with the Moss (#222-006) retractable belt. Be sure to mount whatever belt you get above the shoulder line, otherwise it will compress the back during a collision. jim -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA '64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go From jhassall at blacksburg.net Tue Jan 1 10:13:13 2008 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2008 09:13:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] Shoulder belts for TR4A In-Reply-To: <477A73CC.8050306@blacksburg.net> References: <000f01c84c96$0a653770$6501a8c0@idea.com> <477A73CC.8050306@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <477A74A9.3060003@blacksburg.net> J.C. Hassall wrote: > Guy D. Huggins wrote: >> Listers, [...] Rats, I meant NO test data! > Guy, > I've had very good success (although test data :-) ) with the Moss > (#222-006) retractable belt. Be sure to mount whatever belt you get > above the shoulder line, otherwise it will compress the back during a > collision. > > jim > -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA '64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go From jmitch at snet.net Tue Jan 1 10:20:28 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2008 12:20:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] You and your car - are one year older In-Reply-To: <008d01c84c88$6ded4a70$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <008d01c84c88$6ded4a70$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <477A765C.8070902@snet.net> I just wish someone would do a frame off restoration on me:) Happy New Year John Mitchell John Macartney wrote: > For all listers > > A very Happy New Year to all. You were designed to last a long time, rust will never affect you > though wear in critical joints of your driveline might raise its ugly head - with the passage of > time. > > Take comfort that while you may be aging (just a little) it's nothing short of a miracle that your > Triumph is still with you. Remember, it was never in the wildest nightmares of those who designed > and made it that it would last this long. From spyderweb at uwalumni.com Tue Jan 1 12:11:53 2008 From: spyderweb at uwalumni.com (JRH) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 13:11:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? References: Message-ID: <00ce01c84caa$2becce30$c09cc94c@gcllawyers.local> Phil Ethier wrote: > On the eighth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me > [A bunch of neat stuff, SNIPPED] and > Six Jimmy Clark gloves You mean those wonderful kangaroo skin gloves of yore? The ones you dasn't allow to get wet? Hmmmm...What was that address in west Saint Paul again? :-) Jim Hill Madison WI From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue Jan 1 12:42:49 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 14:42:49 EST Subject: [TR] Shoulder belts for TR4A Message-ID: In a message dated 1/1/2008 11:47:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, guy at genfiniti.com writes: Can anyone recommend a good source for excellent (and by "excellent" I mean preventing bodies from slamming into the dash during a collision) seat belts, with shoulder straps, for a TR4A. ==AM== I installed lap/shoulder belts in front seats of my Herald -- and lap-only belts in the back -- from Andover Restraints: and have been very happy with the function and period look of them. Lots of colors to choose from if you're so inclined! Again, I've not had to test them. ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From dkspence at telus.net Tue Jan 1 13:16:08 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 13:16:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Shoulder belts for TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <797B7103-3ECA-4C61-A70E-F080826D73C5@telus.net> Jim How do you mount it "above the shoulder"? On Jan 1, 2008, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "J.C. Hassall" > Date: January 1, 2008 10:09:32 AM MST (CA) > To: "Guy D. Huggins" > Cc: List TR > Subject: Re: [TR] Shoulder belts for TR4A > > > Guy D. Huggins wrote: >> Listers, >> Can anyone recommend a good source for excellent (and by >> "excellent" I mean >> preventing bodies from slamming into the dash during a collision) >> seat >> belts, with shoulder straps, for a TR4A. >> I am in the body work phase of restoration and now is the time to >> drill the >> holes for the new shoulder anchor points. So, I need to choose >> something in >> order to get the holes in the proper place and size. >> Cheers, >> Guy D. Huggins > Guy, > I've had very good success (although test data :-) ) with the Moss > (#222-006) retractable belt. Be sure to mount whatever belt you > get above the shoulder line, otherwise it will compress the back > during a collision. From tr3bob at cox.net Tue Jan 1 13:21:31 2008 From: tr3bob at cox.net (tr3bob at cox.net) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 15:21:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <200712301235.48297.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <20080101152131.T8O7E.62471.root@eastrmwml33> Hi Bob, I've used the moss covers on my '66 MGB and my '60 TR3A with great success. The cover will stretch over 17" and pull tight as you lace. I wouldn't be afraid to try them. Bob Stahlbush '60TR3A '66 MGB '76 MG Midget '83 XJ-6 '70 BSA T-bolt '70 BSA Lightning ---- Bob Labuz wrote: > Hello, > > I am looking to replace the very old cover on my TR3A and also get a new cover > for the TR4. > > Does anyone know of a supplier of these items? > > Moss sells one which fits 16.5 wheels but if I measured correctly the 4 is 16 > and the 3 is 17. > > The existing cover on the 3 I believe is an original AMCO part very old and > ready for the trash. > > I would like to go with a similar style, black and laced from the inside. > > Thanks, > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Jan 1 13:28:52 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 15:28:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 timing chain Message-ID: <002501c84cb4$ed1e9d90$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> List, Anyone know where I can obtain an AE brand timing chain? TIA, Ed Woods From blambert at socal.rr.com Tue Jan 1 13:34:50 2008 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 12:34:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] Shoulder belts for TR4A In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000001c84cb5$c253c300$6401a8c0@dennis12345> My lap/shoulder belts from Andover Restraints worked fine during a test about three years ago in my late TR3A. Dennis > > Can anyone recommend a good source for excellent (and by "excellent" I > mean > preventing bodies from slamming into the dash during a collision) seat > belts, with shoulder straps, for a TR4A. > > > > ==AM== > I installed lap/shoulder belts in front seats of my Herald -- and lap-only > belts in the back -- from Andover Restraints: > and have been very happy with > the function and period look of them. > Lots of colors to choose from if you're so inclined! Again, I've not had > to > test them. ;-) > > --Andy Mace From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jan 1 13:53:33 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2008 15:53:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Valve numbering tr6 In-Reply-To: <000f01c84c98$1a3a0890$0202a8c0@newcomputer> References: Message-ID: <477A61FD.17102.614B93D@localhost> > > Then, 'splain why Jaguar numbered their cylinders from the rear? > Different strokes for different folks? Would you bore us with the details? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3bob at cox.net Tue Jan 1 13:54:55 2008 From: tr3bob at cox.net (tr3bob at cox.net) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 15:54:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] You and your car - are one year older In-Reply-To: <008d01c84c88$6ded4a70$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <20080101155455.VBEOD.62615.root@eastrmwml33> Hi, Happy New Year to all you great listers out there....my cars would not be happy and content if it weren't for the expert advice I've gotten over the years from you listers. What a great sentiment ,John, and great advice too. I hate to wax nostalgic, but If you're anything like me, your LBC keeps you young. Anytime I fire up one of my cars, I get butterflies of anticipation and satisfaction. It may be winter here in RI, but on dry days I can't resist a short drive down the road just to hear the exhaust notes as I work through the gears. YIKES...I need another fix. Bob Stahlbush pres., BMCNE 2001-2006 '60 TR3A '66 MGB '76 MG Midget '83 XJ-6 '70 BSA T-bolt '70 BSA Lightning ---- John Macartney wrote: > For all listers > > A very Happy New Year to all. You were designed to last a long time, rust will never affect you > though wear in critical joints of your driveline might raise its ugly head - with the passage of > time. > > Take comfort that while you may be aging (just a little) it's nothing short of a miracle that your > Triumph is still with you. Remember, it was never in the wildest nightmares of those who designed > and made it that it would last this long. > > Enjoy - and if I can borrow a Land Rover advertising slogan here "one life, live it!" > > Cheers all, Jonmac > > Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 > www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > > An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From 6parts at charter.net Tue Jan 1 16:11:17 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 18:11:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? References: <477A9EDC.7090601@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <001901c84ccb$9d3cf8f0$03d30c47@alan> Try Harbour Freight or even Walmart. About $30.00 Bright enough to blind you. Al From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Tue Jan 1 16:47:53 2008 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 17:47:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] Shoulder belts for TR4A Message-ID: dkspence wrote: > Jim> How do you mount it "above the shoulder"? A few years ago there was thread about this. I was putting belts in my TR3B at the time and went from with shoulder strap to without. I noticed my Miata, I'm using as a daily driver, has the shoulder strap attached below my shoulder. I do not see how you could do anything else in a convertible.Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! From 6parts at charter.net Tue Jan 1 18:01:10 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 20:01:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Heater control valve Message-ID: <005401c84cda$f736e2d0$03d30c47@alan> > That's working perfectly, especially for Miami. > > If it opens anymore , than it won't shut off, unless you do it manually. > > Al > > www.triumphowners.com/624 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 6:53 PM > Subject: [6pack] Heater control valve > > >> Listers: >> >> We actually have some cold (OK, mid-40's, but cold for Miami) weather >> coming up in the next day or 2.? I checked the function of my heater >> control valve and the cable that moves it.? I noticed that there is more >> possible travel in the little arm on the valve than the cable can >> accommodate.? Right now, it is set up so that the cable closes the valve >> fully but cannot open it fully (about 3 quarters, not all the way).? Is >> this how it should be set up?? I notice that the heat comes out >> reasonably warm, but not really hot.? When closed, there is no heat. >> >> Thanks. >> >> Michael >> '76 Tahiti blue From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue Jan 1 18:46:43 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 20:46:43 EST Subject: [TR] Shoulder belts for TR4A Message-ID: In a message dated 1/1/2008 6:48:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: A few years ago there was thread about this. I was putting belts in my TR3B at the time and went from with shoulder strap to without. I noticed my Miata, I'm using as a daily driver, has the shoulder strap attached below my shoulder. I do not see how you could do anything else in a convertible. ==AM== One does tend to sit pretty low in a convertible. Unless you're extremely tall (especially from the waist up), it shouldn't be that difficult to locate the shoulder belt mount high enough on the wheel arch to be at or above shoulder height. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From jgillis at tcd.ie Wed Jan 2 03:14:18 2008 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 10:14:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] Pertronix and wipers Message-ID: <1199268858.477b63fab193c@mymail.tcd.ie> H.N.Y to all and sundry, can I put two quick ones out there, anybody experience or comment on the Pertronix ignitor electronic ignition for my TR2, and does anybody have a source for NOS or WELL MADE wiper arms and blades for my TR2 which has the collet and lock nut type. Bought the Moss items, and the very poor quality rendered them useless before ever being used. Regards John From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Wed Jan 2 06:33:06 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 08:33:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Flywheel Lightening References: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <004c01c84d44$027bc5c0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> There's no magical number that makes things ok for street, or bad for street use. Mostly it's the driver. If you can handle an engine that's a bit more easily stalled, requiring you to slightly rev it higher and slip the clutch just a touch longer, you'll be fine with a light flywheel. If you can't do that, then you may not want a light flywheel. ----- Original Message ----- > > While I have my engine and tranny out I hope to have my flywheel lightened > and balanced. I seem to recall that there are "dangers" in taking too much > weight off relative to impacting drivability. > > Can someone enlighten (sorry.....bad pun) me as to what is an acceptable > flywheel weight for a "daily driver". From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Wed Jan 2 06:48:49 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 08:48:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Emissions in the future-is retrofitting possible? References: <4775BA60.70505@tscusa.org> <6BA2E218-1FF3-498A-8041-FF5AFB5C3B3F@blakedischer.com> Message-ID: <005301c84d46$344b2ad0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Huh, wonder which things SEMA is claiming victory on in Maryland. We had a bill (HB1267) to allow cars 25 years old and more to be exempted from testing. Current law requires testing for anything after 1976. That bill didn't make it out of committee. Is SEMA claiming that as a victory? In previous years, SEMA submitted bills to eliminate our existing exemptions for historic cars and such, and to completely eliminate the streetrod category of license plates. Thankfully, SEMA lost those, with some lobbying help from me and others against SEMAs attempt to restrict the heck out of hotrods and such. Keep your eyes open with SEMA. They don't seem to research things much when they go off on a crusade. And once they are crusading, no facts or existing laws will sway them from their course. ----- Original Message ----- > In my role as President of The Vintage Triumph Register (VTR), I am in > contact with the folks at the SEMA Action Network (SEMASAN), which is > an arm of SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market Association). SEMA is a > trade association for manufacturers which produce parts for the motor > vehicle aftermarket. A big portion of their member's customer base > are the hot-rodders, street-rodders and antique/classic car enthusiasts. > > During 2007, their efforts helped win legislative victories in issues > effecting old car enthusiasts in Arizona, Arkansas, California, > Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, > Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Maryland, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Montana, > Nevada, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Texas, Virginia, West > Virginia and Wyoming. Colorado is on their radar, their last success > there was in 2006 in a bill concerning vehicle smog inspections for > kit cars. From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jan 2 07:32:55 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 14:32:55 +0000 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <010220081432.28215.477BA097000D2C6400006E3722070210539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the ninth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me Nine Nomex outfits Eight heart-shaped waffles Seven Lotus Sevens Six Jimmy Clark gloves FIVE MINILITES Four Hoosier slicks Three Italian air horns Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Jan 2 08:22:34 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 15:22:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] You and your car - are one year older In-Reply-To: <477A765C.8070902@snet.net> References: <008d01c84c88$6ded4a70$0201a8c0@Bevan> <477A765C.8070902@snet.net> Message-ID: I wish someone would take the dents out, repair the rotating parts, and replace the drive shaft. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_dec From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 2 10:01:55 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 10:01:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] car parts for Christmas? In-Reply-To: <008f01c84d4c$fd2edfe0$f78c9fa0$@com> Message-ID: <20080102170229.2DB47187B04@autox.team.net> I was just wondering what he was putting on the other MiniLite??? -----Original Message----- From: british-cars-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:british-cars-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wm. Severin Thompson Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 7:37 AM To: pethier at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: miata at realbig.com; british-cars at autox.team.net; autox at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [British-cars] car parts for Christmas? Damn long winters up there, huh Phil? -----Original Message----- From: british-cars-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net [mailto:british-cars-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 8:33 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: miata at realbig.com; british-cars at autox.team.net; autox at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [British-cars] car parts for Christmas? On the ninth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me Nine Nomex outfits Eight heart-shaped waffles Seven Lotus Sevens Six Jimmy Clark gloves FIVE MINILITES Four Hoosier slicks Three Italian air horns Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA British-cars at autox.team.net You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/british-cars No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM From triumphworks at gmail.com Wed Jan 2 10:15:36 2008 From: triumphworks at gmail.com (Alain) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 12:15:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] most cost-effective car to move a TR engine?? Message-ID: Outside using a small pick-up truck or car trailer setup, has anyone successfully used a car, small station wagon, or other vehicle to move a TR engine, TR4 in this case. I need to deliver it 200 miles away. Neither my Corolla or wife's Camry are good candidate's for moving a TR engine. Should I just rent/borrow a pickup, or in these days of high-priced gas, has anyone found a better solution to move an engine from pt. A. to pt. B?? TIA for any novel/good ideas, Alain Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. -- G.Marx -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Jan 2 10:24:50 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 17:24:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] most cost-effective car to move a TR engine?? Message-ID: <010220081724.26581.477BC8E2000EA33A000067D52200734840970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Alain > Outside using a small pick-up truck or car trailer setup, has anyone > successfully used a car, small station wagon, or other vehicle to move a TR > engine, TR4 in this case. I need to deliver it 200 miles away. Astro vans work great if you have one available. You can tie the engine down to the mounting points for the 3rd seat. I moved several TRactor engines that way. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 2 10:52:49 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 10:52:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] most cost-effective car to move a TR engine?? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080102175315.C2C97187A1C@autox.team.net> Post to the list where Point A & B are to see if anyone is going that way. Or, Maybe the re-builder will have a connection for you as well. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alain Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:16 AM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] most cost-effective car to move a TR engine?? Outside using a small pick-up truck or car trailer setup, has anyone successfully used a car, small station wagon, or other vehicle to move a TR engine, TR4 in this case. I need to deliver it 200 miles away. Neither my Corolla or wife's Camry are good candidate's for moving a TR engine. Should I just rent/borrow a pickup, or in these days of high-priced gas, has anyone found a better solution to move an engine from pt. A. to pt. B?? TIA for any novel/good ideas, Alain Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. -- G.Marx -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM From cak at dimebank.com Wed Jan 2 10:52:24 2008 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 09:52:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Shoulder belts for TR4A Message-ID: <200801021752.m02HqOWO013177@moose.dimebank.com> I'll second the recommendation for Andover - they have a good selectoin at fair prices. Wesco Performance is another good choice. Moss and TRF used to sell Britax retractables that echoed the TR6 installation - mount the retractor unit low on the wheelarch and a redirect bracket on top of the wheelarch, mounted via the bolt that is the "resting point" for the stowed convertible top. I don't much care for them; I just use static three points mounted to the original mounting points and the wheelarch bolt. The commonly accepted rule about shoulder belts is that the mount point must be less than 45 degrees from horizontal - not that it has to be above the shoulder. I prefer to use 30 degrees as the max. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 2 11:19:02 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 10:19:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] most cost-effective car to move a TR engine?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <006101c84d6b$f3d633c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Outside using a small pick-up truck or car trailer setup, has anyone > successfully used a car, small station wagon, or other > vehicle to move a TR > engine, TR4 in this case. I now drive a large station wagon, which makes it trivial, but I've done it in the past with a compact hatchback. > Neither my Corolla or wife's Camry are good candidate's for > moving a TR engine. Actually should be doable, most sedans can handle 300 lbs in the trunk if it's well distributed and you don't have any weight in the back seat. I'd suggest a "floor" of 3/4" plywood or "1 by" pine to cover most of the trunk floor (and protect the carpet). You could also throw a sheet of plastic drop cloth under there if there's a chance the motor might try to mark it's spot. Then build a cradle for the motor to support it on the oil pan flange. I used a section of 2x6 on each side, with 1x6 between the pan & firewall extending some distance to the side (for extra stability). Then a short section of 2x6 under the front flange. (Hmm, or maybe it was 8" wide, I don't recall for sure. Measure before you go buy anything, I just used scraps from the wood pile.) If there's a lot of room for it to slide around, you might want to add some suitable braces. But I just pushed it all the way forward (so it couldn't build up any momentum if I had to stop suddenly) and drove a little conservatively : no problems. Randall From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Jan 2 10:07:52 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 10:07:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pertronix and wipers In-Reply-To: <1199268858.477b63fab193c@mymail.tcd.ie> References: <1199268858.477b63fab193c@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <91DC9D9603374EFC9A3452D492D315B9@GeoPC> John -- FWIW, I have 2 sets of wiper blades. One is (what I think is) the original style with sort of layers of rubber forming the blade, the other is a modern style molded blade. The former resides on the car most of the time, the latter gets put on if rain is expected. This also keeps the 'rain' blades fresh as the wipers tend to take a set when left resting against the windscreen and in the sun for long periods of time. I realize you live where it rains more than 5 or 6 times a year so perhaps this is not as practical. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gillis" >... does anybody have a source for NOS or WELL MADE wiper arms and blades >for my TR2... From bill_beecher at flash.net Wed Jan 2 12:43:11 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill beecher) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 12:43:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gauges Message-ID: <20080102194336.D377E187A1B@autox.team.net> Hello List and Happy New Year! Can anyone recommend a reputable place to send all of my gauges(Speedo, Tach, Amp, Temp, Fuel & Oil Press) for full restoration? I had one recommend, and I am sure they would do a good job, but they tell me they are at least 18mos backlogged, I was hoping for 3-4 months. Does anyone know anything about Speedometer Plus in L.A.? Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM From auprichard at comcast.net Wed Jan 2 12:49:33 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 19:49:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] Gauges Message-ID: <010220081949.14183.477BEACD0005D3320000376722070032010B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Nisongers did a really nice job for me. Andrew -------------- Original message -------------- From: "bill beecher" > Hello List and Happy New Year! > > Can anyone recommend a reputable place to send all of my gauges(Speedo, > Tach, Amp, Temp, Fuel & Oil Press) for full restoration? I had one > recommend, and I am sure they would do a good job, but they tell me they are > at least 18mos backlogged, I was hoping for 3-4 months. > > Does anyone know anything about Speedometer Plus in L.A.? > > Thx, > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 > 11:29 AM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From cm.sherman at verizon.net Wed Jan 2 12:55:22 2008 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 14:55:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gauges In-Reply-To: <010220081949.14183.477BEACD0005D3320000376722070032010B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> References: <010220081949.14183.477BEACD0005D3320000376722070032010B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001601c84d79$6956fff0$4001a8c0@DellXPS720> I seconded that... Nisongers did a fab job... 3 week turn-around for a fuel and oil gauges ($260). Look brand new. They are getting back logged now as people sent in their work for the winter. Corey Sherman No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM From dwillner at ptd.net Wed Jan 2 13:00:50 2008 From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 15:00:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gauges References: <20080102194336.D377E187A1B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001d01c84d7a$2d57d960$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Bill, I've heard great things about a company called Nisongers, in New York. http://www.nisonger.com/instrument-rebuilding.htm I was quoted around $150.00 for my BSA's old Smith's speedo, not real cheap, but the quality of the "afters" looks better then new. NFI... Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special ----- Original Message ----- From: "bill beecher" To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 2:43 PM Subject: [TR] Gauges > Hello List and Happy New Year! > > Can anyone recommend a reputable place to send all of my gauges(Speedo, > Tach, Amp, Temp, Fuel & Oil Press) for full restoration? I had one > recommend, and I am sure they would do a good job, but they tell me they > are > at least 18mos backlogged, I was hoping for 3-4 months. > > Does anyone know anything about Speedometer Plus in L.A.? > > Thx, > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 > 11:29 AM > _______________________________________________ From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Jan 2 13:40:03 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 15:40:03 EST Subject: [TR] Pertronix and wipers Message-ID: John, There was an article several months ago in TRaction magazine (TR Register Club Publication) talking about this problem. My new arms for my Jaguar worked right off the spindle when I ran the wipers, It turns out, the new ones are tapered! I was able to get good ones for my Jaguar from Bill Bassetts Jaguar Restoration in Wyoming, Rhode island. Mike Moore **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 2 15:06:26 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 17:06:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oberg Tilt Sling Message-ID: <000b01c84d8b$ba29beb0$210110ac@bobspc> I'm going to pull the engine and tranny this week and picked up an Oberg Tilt Sling to make life easier......or so I'm told. The only problem is that their directions are lacking, at best. To paraphrase the directions: 1. attach both ends of the cable before turning drum and 2. one half turn of the drum with a 1/2" ratchet will tilt an engine up to 45 degrees. End of directions. So I'm left to assuming, which always gets me in trouble. I assume that releasing the Oberg locking bar will let me pull out sufficient cable to attach to the engine and I assume that as you pull the engine up and forward you can release the locking bar and the engine will hold its position while you ratchet it to the angle you want. I also assume that ratcheting in one direction raises the front and in the other direction lowers the front. As always.....thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1206 - Release Date: 1/1/2008 12:09 PM From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jan 2 15:56:48 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 17:56:48 EST Subject: [TR] Gauges Message-ID: Nisonger in Mamoroneck, NY David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jan 2 16:17:08 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 23:17:08 -0000 Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009 Message-ID: <028b01c84d95$993c7080$0201a8c0@Bevan> My sincere apologies for 'bombing' the lists. An enthusiast from central Florida wrote me recently suggesting a venue in that location. Unfortunately, I seem to have deleted his post before filing it. Could that person please contact me off-list please? Thanks Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Wed Jan 2 16:31:09 2008 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 15:31:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] Shoulder belts for TR4A In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5EE@mail2.sr.local> That definitely does not apply to a TR-6. The Kangols and similar replacements are considerably below the top of the seat and even further below the head rest. My shoulders are at least a foot above the wheel arch mount. In addition for us 6'5"ers, well my head is considerably above the head rests on any car I have ever driven including my Jag. For us a severe rear ender would likely break my neck with my head snapping back above the head rest. Probably would be better to remove it entirely. Deano One does tend to sit pretty low in a convertible. Unless you're extremely tall (especially from the waist up), it shouldn't be that difficult to locate the shoulder belt mount high enough on the wheel arch to be at or above shoulder height. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) From dkspence at telus.net Wed Jan 2 16:43:49 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 16:43:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Car parts for Christmas? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6B39A477-3A97-460B-AC30-63C327298719@telus.net> Let me guess Phil... On the eighth day you'll get a TR8! On 31-Dec-07, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: Re: [TR] car parts for Christmas? > > > On the seventh day of Christmas, my true love gave to me > Seven Lotus Sevens > Six Jimmy Clark gloves > FIVE MINILITES > Four Hoosier slicks > Three Italian air horns > Two SU carbbies > And a shop vac underneath the tree. From tr3bob at cox.net Wed Jan 2 17:53:39 2008 From: tr3bob at cox.net (tr3bob at cox.net) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 19:53:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gauges Message-ID: <20080102195339.K8ELE.72093.root@eastrmwml33> I've had good luck with Nisongers, Bill. They are on Long Island, but I don't have the address or phone no. in front of me They are a little pricey (generally around $165 a gauge) but they are VERY good and helped me size the fuel tank sending unit for my TR3 a while back. Seems the new sending unit I got from Moss was wound with a non-standard wire and it played havoc with the gauge. On their recommendation I sent it back and rebult a stock spare I had. Bob --- bill beecher wrote: > Hello List and Happy New Year! > > Can anyone recommend a reputable place to send all of my gauges(Speedo, > Tach, Amp, Temp, Fuel & Oil Press) for full restoration? I had one > recommend, and I am sure they would do a good job, but they tell me they are > at least 18mos backlogged, I was hoping for 3-4 months. > > Does anyone know anything about Speedometer Plus in L.A.? > > Thx, > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 > 11:29 AM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From technical-iwnet at onwight.net Wed Jan 2 18:30:34 2008 From: technical-iwnet at onwight.net (Graham Stretch) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 01:30:34 -0000 Subject: [TR] most cost-effective car to move a TR engine?? References: Message-ID: <00e601c84da8$3c836e30$0601a8c0@Zebu> Hi Alain A friend of mine moved most of a Dolomite Sprint Driveline in his Dolomite Sprint! A Dolomite Sprint is a small Triumph Saloon, about the same as a Corolla if not a touch smaller, the engine was rolled in to the boot, I say rolled as it had to rotate part way through insertion to clear the structure of the body, the gearbox went in the rear inside several black bin liners to retain any oil spill and the axle was placed on the reclined passenger seat, the interior was seriously protected with heavy cardboard, hardboard and ply wood where needed, the wife travelled in the back behind the driver, it did look a little low on the rear but he drove over 100 miles from me to his home! All items were drained of fluids before transport, though I recall a cup or so of coolant appeared from the engine despite turning it every which way to empty it out before hand! Dolomite Sprints are also notoriously soft sprung, they tend to bottom the suspension four up on a rural type road, though from experience of Az, some of your unmade roads are better than our local routes! Just move it in what ya got! (tuppence worth, maybe less!) Graham ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alain" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 5:15 PM Subject: [TR] most cost-effective car to move a TR engine?? > Outside using a small pick-up truck or car trailer setup, has anyone > successfully used a car, small station wagon, or other vehicle to move a > TR > engine, TR4 in this case. I need to deliver it 200 miles away. > > Neither my Corolla or wife's Camry are good candidate's for moving a TR > engine. Should I just rent/borrow a pickup, or in these days of > high-priced > gas, has anyone found a better solution to move an engine from pt. A. to > pt. > B?? > > TIA for any novel/good ideas, Alain > > Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too > dark to read. -- G.Marx > > -- > 67 TR4A > 71 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date: > 27/12/2007 13:34 From cm.sherman at verizon.net Wed Jan 2 18:43:00 2008 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 20:43:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gauges In-Reply-To: <20080102195339.K8ELE.72093.root@eastrmwml33> References: <20080102195339.K8ELE.72093.root@eastrmwml33> Message-ID: <000c01c84da9$f9bb69c0$4001a8c0@DellXPS720> Actually, they are in Mamaroneck, New York, towards Connecticut, not Long Island... up Interstate 95. I dropped my gauges off in person. The Fuel gauge was $105 and the Temp gauge $120. Well worth it... glad to sent pictures on request. I was planning to do a little write-up on their shop for the 6-pack newsletter. Seems like there's interest. I know there are lots of shops that can do the work, but I stand by them for now. O'course NFI, Corey Sherman http://www.nisonger.com Nisonger Instruments 225 Hoyt Avenue Mamaroneck, NY 10543 Phone: 914.381.1952 Fax: 914.381.1435 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+cm.sherman=verizon.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+cm.sherman=verizon.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tr3bob at cox.net Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 7:54 PM To: bill beecher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Gauges I've had good luck with Nisongers, Bill. They are on Long Island, but I don't have the address or phone no. in front of me They are a little pricey (generally around $165 a gauge) but they are VERY good and helped me size the fuel tank sending unit for my TR3 a while back. Seems the new sending unit I got from Moss was wound with a non-standard wire and it played havoc with the gauge. On their recommendation I sent it back and rebult a stock spare I had. Bob No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM From earthron at yahoo.com Wed Jan 2 18:51:56 2008 From: earthron at yahoo.com (Ron Jones) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 17:51:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 or 4 engine needed Message-ID: <543654.33169.qm@web30007.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Happy New Year to all! The wife says it is time to get the '58 TR3 painted and put together. She wants to drive it . It is going through a quick (it has only been 5 years so far) frame off restoration. The body is going to get a great Black paint job as soon as the painter has a spot open up. It is being done as fill in, sort of like a "government job", to keep the cost down. I need to buy a complete engine from carbs to oil pan for this project. Condition is not too important, as I will be doing a rebuild before I install it in the car. I am an hour north of Los Angeles and can travel some to pick up or possibly have it shipped. I would consider Northern CA to Tucson AZ to be in my driving range. The TR3 was raced back in the 1970's and I put the engine from it in my '63 TR4 race car. The TR3 is going to be a street car so the Kastner F cam and 12:1 compression of the race engine will not be needed. If anyone can help, you can reply off list to earthron at yahoo.com or TR3a1958 at yahoo.com. Or call me 9am to 10pm Pacific time @ 818 571-4355 Thanks, Ron '58 TR3A Frame Off ready for paint '63 tr4 race car #58 --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From dorpaul at negia.net Wed Jan 2 19:04:21 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 21:04:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] What dizzy parts actually get converted? References: Message-ID: <002301c84dac$f6cddf60$9194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hi, I have a TR4 distributor (model 40795 made in '67) for my TR3 (boosting 87mm pistons?). I have been told that this model of dizzy's acceleration curves are necessary for my upgrade in displacement. Soon after I get my professionally rebuilt engine running again, I had also hoped to convert to an electronic ignition. (I still don't know the best and reasonablest price brand to buy (?Q1) What do others recommend? Also, I am still positive ground, if that makes any difference?(?Q2)) However, Yesterday, by mistake, I hooked up my battery straight to the points and the flexy, dirty red little wire to the points (inside the distributor)burned the wire in two. My points maybe fried too. Perhaps the cheapest route is to go ahead buy and install a electronic ignition instead of replacing the points and red wire (15$) . I am wondering: how much of the exisiting distributor guts ares reused after the conversion to the electronic ignition? Can someone tell me?(?Q3) Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 2 19:16:25 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 18:16:25 -0800 Subject: [TR] What dizzy parts actually get converted? In-Reply-To: <002301c84dac$f6cddf60$9194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <002301c84dac$f6cddf60$9194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <007201c84dae$a42c8b10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Perhaps the cheapest route is to go ahead buy and install a > electronic > ignition instead of replacing the points and red wire (15$) . Perhaps, but don't forget that the same mistake would have destroyed the more expensive electronic module as well. > I am > wondering: how much of the exisiting distributor guts ares > reused after the > conversion to the electronic ignition? Depends on which conversion you get. I don't believe any of them use the original hot wire to the points (or the points themselves obviously), but the Pertronix relies on the ground wire from the point plate to the dizzy body; which may have also been damaged in your little mishap. However, I don't believe the Crane system relies on the ground wire. Something else to consider; if there is any chance you will want to convert to negative ground in the future (like for a CB radio, CD player, alternator, etc.), and you decide on the Pertronix conversion; now is the time to switch the ground polarity. You need to buy a different Pertronix depending on ground polarity. (However, the current Crane modules will work either way.) Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 2 20:26:38 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 22:26:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tranny Tunnel Message-ID: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> OK....who makes the best fitting after market transmission Cover/Tunnel and sealing strip? I'm talking about the Poly ones. I've read good and bad about this product but my "fiber" one is not worthy of going back in the car. I think it has to do with that one bolt I missed when trying to remove it .........drat. I found one on eBay for $80 but he doesn't include a fitting kit because "he hasn't found one that meets his standards". Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1206 - Release Date: 1/1/2008 12:09 PM From acekraut11 at aol.com Wed Jan 2 21:01:09 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 23:01:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <8CA1BD4683AF70C-9D4-21B0@WEBMAIL-DG05> The secret to an easy installation is to insert the bolts through the bottom of the car so the bolt sticks up through.? Then you can force the tunnel down over the exposed bolts and slide on a washer and nut from the inside of the car.? Much, much easier than trying to get that damn bolt started from above. Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan To: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; triumphs at autox.team.net ; '6pack' <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 10:51 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel I suspect that a well fitting tranny cover is an oxymoron. The kit from TRF is good quality, the black plastic cover is robust and appears to be well made. TRF has the clips and seals and the bolts and other metalwork. You will exhaust your entire vocabulary of four letter words getting it to fit. There is no provision for access to the tranny oil filler or access to the speedo drive unless you create them. I don't understand the fitting kit part, that is just bolts and washers and clips and rubber gaskets. The challenge seems to be with molding a cover that maps to perhaps a diverse range of floor assemblies. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack' Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel OK....who makes the best fitting after market transmission Cover/Tunnel and sealing strip? I'm talking about the Poly ones. I've read good and bad about this product but my "fiber" one is not worthy of going back in the car. I think it has to do with that one bolt I missed when trying to remove it .........drat. I found one on eBay for $80 but he doesn't include a fitting kit because "he hasn't found one that meets his standards". Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From mrv8q at aim.com Wed Jan 2 21:34:20 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 23:34:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gauges In-Reply-To: <20080102194336.D377E187A1B@autox.team.net> References: <20080102194336.D377E187A1B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CA1BD90ADE3852-A78-2318@FWM-M05.sysops.aol.com> Bill, from the Moss catalog: West Valley Instruments 19314 VanOwen Blvd. Reseda, CA 818.758.9500 ask for Morris. I've used them twice, for a TR3 (ether) temp gauge, and aB TR6 tach, and I was pleased; They're 20 minutes from my work, luckily, and turned them around in 2-3 days..... Best, Kevin Browne Triumphs at autox.team.net -----Original Message----- From: bill beecher To: 'list Triumph' Sent: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 11:43 am Subject: [TR] Gauges Hello List and Happy New Year! Can anyone recommend a reputable place to send all of my gauges(Speedo, Tach, Amp, Temp, Fuel & Oil Press) for full restoration? I had one recommend, and I am sure they would do a good job, but they tell me they are at least 18mos backlogged, I was hoping for 3-4 months. Does anyone know anything about Speedometer Plus in L.A.? Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AIM(R) Mail ! - http://webmail.aim.com From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Jan 2 21:45:41 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 23:45:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Nissongers Message-ID: <00b201c84dc3$7e811790$6f207247@fred8kwiskhcfu> I have used Nissongers quite a few times, last month I sent him a "Smith's" clock/mirror for repair, he charged me $190.00, while all other shops advertise less than $75.00, my mistake, Mr. Nissonger is no longer in this business he sold out in 2006, when I called to complain about the pricing the manager/owner told me tough luck, I will not be using this shop again. "FT" From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Jan 2 21:54:42 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 23:54:42 EST Subject: [TR] Nissongers Message-ID: I have used Mo-Ma in Albuquerque for years. Margaret does a wonderful job and they gladly correct mistakes if they happen. Mike Moore . **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 2 22:06:02 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 22:06:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Nissongers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080103050628.AC5FA187A1C@autox.team.net> Yes, I have heard good things about Mo-Ma, and seen their work, but she is backed up until summer of 2009. Thx, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MMoore8425 at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 9:55 PM To: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Nissongers I have used Mo-Ma in Albuquerque for years. Margaret does a wonderful job and they gladly correct mistakes if they happen. Mike Moore . **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Wed Jan 2 22:08:47 2008 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 23:08:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Nissongers Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB0395A7@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Fred et al- I had a very similar experience to Fred's with Nisonger. I did not use a Nisonger refurbished instrument for a long period and when I called to say it didn't work, they claimed to have never worked on it. Previously, all the work Nisonger did was timely, well done and priced within reason. I understand the business has sold and new ownership kept the name. Good idea. Fred is correct; they did not keep the old values, just the name. I have since used Palo Alto Speedometer with good success. I got their name from Hemmings and a customer recommendation. I too recommend them without reservation. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+sothornton=stevethorntonlaw.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+sothornton=stevethorntonlaw.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FRED E THOMAS Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:46 PM To: triumphs Subject: [TR] Nissongers I have used Nissongers quite a few times, last month I sent him a "Smith's" clock/mirror for repair, he charged me $190.00, while all other shops advertise less than $75.00, my mistake, Mr. Nissonger is no longer in this business he sold out in 2006, when I called to complain about the pricing the manager/owner told me tough luck, I will not be using this shop again. "FT" This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1207 - Release Date: 1/2/2008 11:29 AM From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jan 3 06:28:15 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 08:28:15 EST Subject: [TR] Tranny Tunnel Message-ID: In a message dated 1/2/2008 9:33:44 PM Central Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: > OK....who makes the best fitting after market transmission Cover/Tunnel and > sealing strip? I'm talking about the Poly ones. I've read good and bad about > this product but my "fiber" one is not worthy of going back in the car. I > think it has to do with that one bolt I missed when trying to remove it > .........drat. I found one on eBay for $80 but he doesn't include a fitting > kit because "he hasn't found one that meets his standards". > I bought the vacu-formed cover from Roadster Factory back in 1990 and I never looked back. It fit perfectly and was an order of magnitude better than the fiberglass unit I had before. I don't know if he is still using the same molds these days but it is likely that if he has a new mold it will be equally good. Charles does make the effort to do these things right. Dave From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Jan 3 06:34:39 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2008 08:34:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8CA1BD4683AF70C-9D4-21B0@WEBMAIL-DG05> Message-ID: <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> Well, I discovered it after I had problems trying to go from the top down.? In a few places it is tight underneath to get the bolt up through but I was able to do it.? I also used stainless so I wouldnt have to worry about rust.? And I did attach the weatherstripping to the tunnel.? The other cool thing is that if you stick the bolts through before you install the gearbox you can reach through the opening while the car is on the ground without having to crawl under the car.? I would also recommend using a lock washer when you tighten the bolt from underneath since once you start tightening from the top after the bolt is in you can loosen the bolt.? And of course use a lock washer and flat washer on top.? I cant recall the length of the bolts I used but they were a bit longer than the stock ones provided in the fitting kit. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: im sloane To: acekraut11 at aol.com; stan.foster at hp.com; 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 8:13 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel Wow, that's a great tip. Does that work well around top of the tranny? Those are the ones that I can never get. Also, use spray interior adhesive to glue the rubber strips to the cover, not the car. This makes the job go much easier too. Sloane :) 69-Six> Subject: Re: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel> > The secret to an easy installation is to insert the bolts through the bottom of the car so the bolt sticks up through.? Then you can force the tunnel down over the exposed bolts and slide on a washer and nut from the inside of the car.? Much, much easier than trying to get that damn bolt started from above.> > > > > > Aaron Cropley> 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)> http://www.triumphowners.com/108> 2002 Mini Cooper S> Topsham, Maine> ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Wed Jan 2 11:54:47 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 13:54:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] most cost-effective car to move a TR engine?? References: Message-ID: <009101c84d70$f418efd0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Unbolt and remove the passenger seat. Admire all the room now available for the engine. I've put a TR6 engine in a Camry before over there. From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jan 3 07:17:01 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2008 09:17:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] most cost-effective car to move a TR engine?? In-Reply-To: <009101c84d70$f418efd0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <477CA80D.9132.88ADD67@localhost> On 2 Jan 2008 at 13:54, Nolan wrote: > Unbolt and remove the passenger seat. Hmmph. I wold think the best car to move a TR6 engine would be a TR6. It comes pre-installed. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Jan 3 07:23:15 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2008 09:23:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE065E6F@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8CA1BD4683AF70C-9D4-21B0@WEBMAIL-DG05> <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE065E6F@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <8CA1C2B5010E16E-A4C-2BD5@mblk-d22.sysops.aol.com> Stan, I did a test fitting to see how long the bolts needed to be so they stuck up just enough so that I could slip the nut on the bolt without leaving the bolt sticking up too far.B I think I also used a couple different sized bolts since there were a couple places where a little extra length made it easier to install.B And yes, once the jute and carpet were back in place you couldnt see the difference.B The bolts are right next to the tunnel anyways, right where it rises up so they dont stick out where anyone would step on them or otherwise contact them under the carpet unless they were really trying. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan To: acekraut11 at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 8:43 am Subject: RE: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel Aaron, why donbt you just go pop that cover off and measure those bolts for us J B Great tip, Ibll try it soon when I put my interior back in. One question, when you are done is it obvious when you look inside the cockpit that you have done this because the bolt end and the nut and the washer etc are bigger that what you would normally have with just the bolt head and a washer or does this all get hidden by the carpet ? B Stan B B From: acekraut11 at aol.com [mailto:acekraut11 at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 8:35 AM To: im_sloane at hotmail.com; Foster, Stan; 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel B Well, I discovered it after I had problems trying to go from the top down.B In a few places it is tight underneath to get the bolt up through but I was able to do it.B I also used stainless so I wouldnt have to worry about rust.B And I did attach the weatherstripping to the tunnel.B The other cool thing is that if you stick the bolts through before you install the gearbox you can reach through the opening while the car is on the ground without having to crawl under the car.B I would also recommend using a lock washer when you tighten the bolt from underneath since once you start tightening from the top after the bolt is in you can loosen the bolt.B And of course use a lock washer and flat washer on top.B I cant recall the length of the bolts I used but they were a bit longer than the stock ones provided in the fitting kit. Aaron B Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine B ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Jan 3 07:30:55 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 09:30:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oberg Tilt Sling References: <000b01c84d8b$ba29beb0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <001c01c84e15$42ced4b0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> I don't use an Oberg myself, just a leveler bar, but it all works on the same premise. Releasing the lock lets you make adjustments. The adjustment simply moves the pulley system one way or the other on the cable, fore or aft. Pull the pulley system forward on cable and you'll get more engine weight to the rear, and the rear of the engine will tilt down. I can't tell from the picture if the unit uses a ratchet lock beyond the external lock. If it does not, be *REAL* careful when tilting, as it could get away from you easily and drop the engine end down completely. In fact, if it can free wheel with that external lock off, I would not use it. I'd use something like this instead: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1022&N=700+4294860074+115&autoview=sku To set it up, bolt the two cable ends down to the ends of the engine. Then roughly center the pulley over the center of the engine. Hook it all up and pull just a little tension. Spin the ratchet each way a few times to see how far and how fast it moves along the cable, and to familiarize yourself with how it works. Then go ahead and unbolt and remove the engine. If you're removing the engine and transmission as a unit, start with the pulley roughly over the back half of the engine. Lift slightly, wiggle things lose, and adjust as necessary. If you're removing just the engine, start with the pulley roughly centered over the engine. Lift slightly, wiggle things lose, and adjust as necessary. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 5:06 PM Subject: [TR] Oberg Tilt Sling > I'm going to pull the engine and tranny this week and picked up an Oberg > Tilt Sling to make life easier......or so I'm told. The only problem is > that > their directions are lacking, at best. To paraphrase the directions: 1. > attach both ends of the cable before turning drum and 2. one half turn of > the drum with a 1/2" ratchet will tilt an engine up to 45 degrees. End of > directions. So I'm left to assuming, which always gets me in trouble. I > assume that releasing the Oberg locking bar will let me pull out > sufficient > cable to attach to the engine and I assume that as you pull the engine up > and forward you can release the locking bar and the engine will hold its > position while you ratchet it to the angle you want. I also assume that > ratcheting in one direction raises the front and in the other direction > lowers the front. From trhouse at greenapple.com Thu Jan 3 07:52:40 2008 From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2008 09:52:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] most cost-effective car to move a TR engine?? In-Reply-To: <477CA80D.9132.88ADD67@localhost> Message-ID: on 1/3/08 9:17 AM, Jim Muller at jimmuller at rcn.com wrote: >> Unbolt and remove the passenger seat This is what we used to do when we went to the drive in in the TR......... From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 3 11:23:12 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2008 18:23:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <010320081823.4476.477D28100005F49D0000117C22007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the tenth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me Ten six-point wrenches Nine Nomex outfits Eight heart-shaped waffles Seven Lotus Sevens Six Jimmy Clark gloves FIVE MINILITES Four Hoosier slicks Three Italian air horns Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 3 14:07:53 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2008 21:07:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] [Miata] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <010320082107.22477.477D4EA900058441000057CD22007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> So, you have a Time Machine now? -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Chad J. Douglas" > On the Twelfth day of Christmas my True Love Gave to Me: > > Twelve Pounds of boost > Eleven Months of Sunshine > Ten six-point wrenches > Nine Nomex outfits > Eight heart-shaped waffles > Seven Lotus Sevens > Six Jimmy Clark gloves > FIVE MINILITES > Four Hoosier slicks > Three Italian air horns > Two SU carbbies > And a shop vac underneath the tree. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, > 1994 Miata C package > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. > _______________________________________________ > Miata mailing list > Miata at list.realbig.com > http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Jan 3 18:37:04 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 20:37:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] what car? In-Reply-To: <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <200801032037.04448.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Just looking at ebay Triumph parts and located this carb/manifold setup. seller says it is a 3/4 but it is not. Maybe a Spitfire, Herald? What is that tank, an expansion tank for the radiator? ebay item # is 310012217855 Just curious up here in central ny with temps going into the -F again tonight! Bob From brad.kahler at 141.com Thu Jan 3 17:52:54 2008 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2008 18:52:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] what car? In-Reply-To: <200801032037.04448.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> <200801032037.04448.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <477D8366.9020208@141.com> Triumph Spitfire Mk1 for sure. Brad Bob Labuz wrote: > Just looking at ebay Triumph parts and located this carb/manifold setup. > > seller says it is a 3/4 but it is not. Maybe a Spitfire, Herald? > > What is that tank, an expansion tank for the radiator? > > ebay item # is 310012217855 > > Just curious up here in central ny with temps going into the -F again tonight! > > Bob > _______________________________________________ From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jan 3 18:04:13 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2008 20:04:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] what car? In-Reply-To: <200801032037.04448.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <477D3FBD.11605.ADB6796@localhost> On 3 Jan 2008 at 20:37, Bob Labuz wrote: > Just looking at ebay Triumph parts and located this carb/manifold > setup. > seller says it is a 3/4 but it is not. Maybe a Spitfire, Herald? > > What is that tank, an expansion tank for the radiator? I don't see anything I'd call an expansion tank. The left side of the picture shows an SU float bowl. It's angled, so unless the mount is broken it is for a car whose carbs are slanted, not horizontal. (They made some that way with the appropriate mounting hardware to bring the float bowl vertical.) The cover on the top would seem to be the valve cover, with a crank ventilation tube on the back. From the relative sizes of everything compared to the dashpots and the float bowl which would be more or less the same size for any car, this looks like a very small engine. The AUD2140 is an SU number, but I couldn't tell you what. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 3 18:08:46 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 18:08:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] what car? In-Reply-To: <477D3FBD.11605.ADB6796@localhost> References: <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> <477D3FBD.11605.ADB6796@localhost> Message-ID: <000301c84e6e$5b6fc5c0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> The tank is indeed a brass expansion tank. It was fitted only on Mk1 Spits (62-64) and removed for the Mk2's. The same tanks were also fitted on some Vitesse and perhaps Herald models (I'm rather fuzzy on those but am quite sure someone will chime in with a correction.) The carbs are 1.25" SUs Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 6:04 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] what car? On 3 Jan 2008 at 20:37, Bob Labuz wrote: > Just looking at ebay Triumph parts and located this carb/manifold > setup. > seller says it is a 3/4 but it is not. Maybe a Spitfire, Herald? > > What is that tank, an expansion tank for the radiator? I don't see anything I'd call an expansion tank. The left side of the picture shows an SU float bowl. It's angled, so unless the mount is broken it is for a car whose carbs are slanted, not horizontal. (They made some that way with the appropriate mounting hardware to bring the float bowl vertical.) The cover on the top would seem to be the valve cover, with a crank ventilation tube on the back. From the relative sizes of everything compared to the dashpots and the float bowl which would be more or less the same size for any car, this looks like a very small engine. The AUD2140 is an SU number, but I couldn't tell you what. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Jan 3 19:05:44 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 21:05:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] what car? In-Reply-To: <000301c84e6e$5b6fc5c0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> <477D3FBD.11605.ADB6796@localhost> <000301c84e6e$5b6fc5c0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <200801032105.44622.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday 03 January 2008 08:08 pm, Joe Curry wrote: > The tank is indeed a brass expansion tank. It was fitted only on Mk1 Spits > (62-64) and removed for the Mk2's. The same tanks were also fitted on some > Vitesse and perhaps Herald models (I'm rather fuzzy on those but am quite > sure someone will chime in with a correction.) > > The carbs are 1.25" SUs > > Joe C. > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim > Muller > Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 6:04 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] what car? > > On 3 Jan 2008 at 20:37, Bob Labuz wrote: > > Just looking at ebay Triumph parts and located this carb/manifold > > setup. > > seller says it is a 3/4 but it is not. Maybe a Spitfire, Herald? > > > > What is that tank, an expansion tank for the radiator? > > I don't see anything I'd call an expansion tank. The left side of > the picture shows an SU float bowl. It's angled, so unless the mount > is broken it is for a car whose carbs are slanted, not horizontal. > (They made some that way with the appropriate mounting hardware to > bring the float bowl vertical.) The cover on the top would seem to > be the valve cover, with a crank ventilation tube on the back. From > the relative sizes of everything compared to the dashpots and the > float bowl which would be more or less the same size for any car, > this looks like a very small engine. The AUD2140 is an SU number, > but I couldn't tell you what. Thanks Joe. Wow I was almost right on both questions. Now all I need to find is a new game show: "Whats that Triumph Part" on the same line as that old show "What My Line" or am I showing my age. Fred, I was about to send you a reply saying that that tank above the carbs sure looks like a radiator tank but Joe beat me to the punch. Thanks for letting me keep my fingers warm by typing. I know you are not freezing Joe but it is sure cold up here! Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 3 18:23:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 17:23:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] what car? In-Reply-To: <000301c84e6e$5b6fc5c0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com><477D3FBD.11605.ADB6796@localhost> <000301c84e6e$5b6fc5c0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <013901c84e70$6d000280$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > The tank is indeed a brass expansion tank. It was fitted > only on Mk1 Spits > (62-64) and removed for the Mk2's. The same tanks were also > fitted on some > Vitesse and perhaps Herald models (I'm rather fuzzy on those > but am quite > sure someone will chime in with a correction.) Would it be OK if I agreed ? > The carbs are 1.25" SUs That too; HS4. I may bid on that tank but have no use for the carbs. If someone else wants the carbs & manifold, email me off-list and let's make a deal. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jan 3 18:23:06 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2008 20:23:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] what car? In-Reply-To: <000301c84e6e$5b6fc5c0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <477D3FBD.11605.ADB6796@localhost> Message-ID: <477D442A.32365.AECAFC8@localhost> On 3 Jan 2008 at 18:08, Joe Curry wrote: > The tank is indeed a brass expansion tank. What brass expansion tank? Are we looking at the same item? What I saw was too corroded over to identify any metals except aluminimumin. Was that big thing on top not a valve cover? If not, where would the valve cover go? Tell me that, huh? Okay, the fitting on the loft for a tube did look suspicious. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 3 18:33:23 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 18:33:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] what car? In-Reply-To: <477D442A.32365.AECAFC8@localhost> References: <477D3FBD.11605.ADB6796@localhost> <477D442A.32365.AECAFC8@localhost> Message-ID: <000401c84e71$cbf76c00$0202a8c0@newcomputer> It's what you are calling a valve cover. The Black painted thing on top. Look at my web page http://members.cox.net/spitlist/Joe'sPage.htm and you will see how it looks on the engine (and polished). Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 6:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] what car? On 3 Jan 2008 at 18:08, Joe Curry wrote: > The tank is indeed a brass expansion tank. What brass expansion tank? Are we looking at the same item? What I saw was too corroded over to identify any metals except aluminimumin. Was that big thing on top not a valve cover? If not, where would the valve cover go? Tell me that, huh? Okay, the fitting on the loft for a tube did look suspicious. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From ZoboHerald at aol.com Thu Jan 3 19:36:55 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 21:36:55 EST Subject: [TR] what car? Message-ID: Someone -- I forgot who -- wrote: > The tank is indeed a brass expansion tank....also > fitted on some Vitesse and perhaps Herald models (I'm rather fuzzy on those > but am quite > sure someone will chime in with a correction.) ==AM== Early Vitesse 6 (Sports 6) 1600cc engines with the odd semi-downdraft Solexes also used that expansion tank. Heralds didn't, unless someone "borrowed" an early Spitfire engine and radiator to essentially replicate the twin-carb option. ==AM== Randall wrote: Would it be OK if I agreed ? > The carbs are 1.25" SUs That too; HS4. ==AM== Sorry, not a match...the board goes back. ;-) Actually, they are HS2 carburetors (the number stands for eighths of an inch -- plus 1 inch. So a 1.25" carburetor is an HS2 (there were also H2s). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 3 20:04:02 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 20:04:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] what car? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000501c84e7e$75984b60$0202a8c0@newcomputer> I have seen a Vitesse with the tank at an ABFM event in Vancouver BC and thought that the Herald might have also had it since it is from the same lineage. But I have never seen one and thinking about the single carb it would not have the platform to support the tank the way a dual carb setup would. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ZoboHerald at aol.com Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 7:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] what car? Someone -- I forgot who -- wrote: > The tank is indeed a brass expansion tank....also > fitted on some Vitesse and perhaps Herald models (I'm rather fuzzy on those > but am quite > sure someone will chime in with a correction.) ==AM== Early Vitesse 6 (Sports 6) 1600cc engines with the odd semi-downdraft Solexes also used that expansion tank. Heralds didn't, unless someone "borrowed" an early Spitfire engine and radiator to essentially replicate the twin-carb option. ==AM== From jmcoh at comcast.net Thu Jan 3 20:06:12 2008 From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 22:06:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tranny Tunnel Message-ID: <003001c84e7e$c3593b70$ff04454b@COHEN1> In Roger Williams' book, How To Improve Triumph TR5, 250 & 6, he discusses a two piece fiberglass tunnel cover made by Racetorations. It appears to be well made, easier to install in two pieces and would allow easy access to the speedo, overdrive, oil fill and front u-joint without having to remove and reinstall the whole cover. Has anyone tried one of these? John Cohen Rutland, VT 76 TR6 http://www.triumphowners.com/701 From pfullam at nycap.rr.com Thu Jan 3 22:30:41 2008 From: pfullam at nycap.rr.com (Pete Fullam) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 00:30:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: <003001c84e7e$c3593b70$ff04454b@COHEN1> References: <003001c84e7e$c3593b70$ff04454b@COHEN1> Message-ID: <477DC481.7060303@nycap.rr.com> I have the space age plastic tunnel in my TR4. When I put in the OD gearbox a couple of years ago, I cut the tunnel right behind the cowl brace, for precisely the reasons John mentioned in his post. I made a couple of sheet metal strips to cover the gap between the sections. I also cut a hole about 3 x 4" in the front section opposite the OD solenoid. I made a form-fitting sheet metal cover for the hole. I can adjust the solenoid without removing either section of the tunnel. With the carpeting installed, everything looks perfectly normal. Pete Fullam CT19207L(O) John Cohen wrote: >In Roger Williams' book, How To Improve Triumph TR5, 250 & 6, he discusses a >two piece fiberglass tunnel cover made by Racetorations. It appears to be >well made, easier to install in two pieces and would allow easy access to >the speedo, overdrive, oil fill and front u-joint without having to remove >and reinstall the whole cover. Has anyone tried one of these? > > > >John Cohen > >Rutland, VT > >76 TR6 > >http://www.triumphowners.com/701 >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >http://www.team.net/archive From supertr6 at earthlink.net Fri Jan 4 06:19:12 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 08:19:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Nissongers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <477E3250.8060400@earthlink.net> Ditto this one. I sent back my speedo they repaired because the speedo cables are cut too "long" now. They asked if I'd cut the cable down I said I had not done so. When told that I should have since they recommended it I had to tell them no one told me a thing and there wasn't a suggestion in with the speedo. THEY TOOK THE SPEEDO BACK AND FIXED IT AGAIN AT NO CHARGE! It has worked great every since. MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote: > I have used Mo-Ma in Albuquerque for years. Margaret does a wonderful job > and they gladly correct mistakes if they happen. > > Mike Moore . > > > > **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes > (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Jan 4 06:52:16 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 08:52:16 EST Subject: [TR] Nissongers Message-ID: Margaret has had an awful time with the dealers on this one. As I understand it, all the cables come from one source, and they are all wrong. (This is as of a couple of years ago) She has tried to get the manufacturer to correct the mistake and has personally contacted all the parts suppliers. They have expressed little interest in the problem solution, except one supplier told her she shouldn't complain because it was it was good for her business. On my Jaguar at least, the speedo section is very careful about specifying NMT than 3/8 cable protruding into the speedo case. She doesn't like to have unhappy customers but she lost money on your speedo repair I'm sure. Mike Moore **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Fri Jan 4 07:47:52 2008 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 09:47:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] what car? Message-ID: <380-22008154144752500@earthlink.net> AUD 2140 is a float bowl part number, which could have gone on any number of application part numbers. (The carbs would then be numbered AUD XXXF and XXXR, for "front" and "rear" on a longitudinally mounted engine.) AUD 2140 would have probably been used with an HS2 carb, which is 1 and 1/4" in diameter ("2" refers to the eigths over 1". An HS4 or HD4 or HIF4 is a 1 1/2" carb.) "Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" Henry David Thoreau http://www.triumphowners.com/735 From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Fri Jan 4 07:52:17 2008 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 09:52:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] what car? Message-ID: <380-2200815414521715@earthlink.net> Ooops. Burlen fuel systems says that float bowl goes on HS2, HS4, and HS6 "for horizontal applications". It looks like the float bowls have become rotated on the eBay car through rough handling. http://www.burlen.co.uk/partDetail.aspx?pump=&partID=4392 "Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" Henry David Thoreau http://www.triumphowners.com/735 From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jan 4 08:17:24 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 15:17:24 +0000 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <010420081517.27866.477E4E040004FAD300006CDA22007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the eleventh day of Christmas, my true love gave to me Eleven miles of twisties Ten six-point wrenches Nine Nomex outfits Eight heart-shaped waffles Seven Lotus Sevens Six Jimmy Clark gloves FIVE MINILITES Four Hoosier slicks Three Italian air horns Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. The number 11 is brought to you by Bill Kille, Vice President of the Delaware Valley Miata Club -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From supertr6 at earthlink.net Fri Jan 4 08:29:35 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 10:29:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Nissongers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <477E50DF.7060100@earthlink.net> Maybe, maybe not. I have no clue what her overhead is on them. However, the point is that she is willing to make things right. I've found most businesses could care less (see below!). She has a customer for life in me now. And if I can point someone else to her to help her business, I will every time! MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote: > Margaret has had an awful time with the dealers on this one. As I > understand it, all the cables come from one source, and they are all > wrong. (This is as of a couple of years ago) > She has tried to get the manufacturer to correct the mistake and has > personally contacted all the parts suppliers. They have expressed > little interest in the problem solution, except one supplier told her > she shouldn't complain because it was it was good for her business. On > my Jaguar at least, the speedo section is very careful about > specifying NMT than 3/8 cable protruding into the speedo case. She > doesn't like to have unhappy customers but she lost money on your > speedo repair I'm sure. > Mike Moore > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape > > in the new year. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 4 08:59:42 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 07:59:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] what car? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080104155942.RRCC22150.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > ==AM== > Sorry, not a match...the board goes back. ;-) > > Actually, they are HS2 carburetors D'oh ! Of course they are. 4 times 1/8 is NOT .250 Randall From ian.viles at ntlworld.com Fri Jan 4 13:07:16 2008 From: ian.viles at ntlworld.com (Ian Viles) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 20:07:16 -0000 Subject: [TR] Tranny Tunnel References: <003001c84e7e$c3593b70$ff04454b@COHEN1> Message-ID: <006d01c84f0d$689985c0$cb390552@ianvmx5y8r7iz4> "John Cohen" asked about two piece fiberglass tunnel cover made by Racetorations. I fitted one to my TR6 in 2006 - excellent fit - no fettling needed. I did line it though, with reflective material and seal the joint to floor etc with closed cell foam strip. I've not had cause to attend to any maintenance as yet - so cannot comment on accessibility improvement benefits. Cheers, Ian Viles Derbyshire 72 TR6 PI From 60TR3A at cox.net Fri Jan 4 15:55:41 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 15:55:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel gauge Message-ID: <35DC5860-4688-4508-BAE4-B6D92D7B8AD0@cox.net> Is there a simple way to test whether a TR3 fuel gauge is operating properly? John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Jan 4 16:08:04 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 23:08:04 -0000 Subject: [TR] Latest News on Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 Message-ID: <060301c84f26$a9a58e10$0201a8c0@Bevan> Hi, Listers At long last we appear to have a route mapped out for the Great Triumph Odyssey in 2009 which you'll find by clicking here www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk. We've also got a pattern of the rallyboard as well to whet the appetites of those who may want to take part? Click on ROUTE when you reach the site home page. There's a lot more info to impart about the route itself and I hope to be adding this in the next 48 hours or so. I hope you'll forgive me if that deadline slips a bit - 'cos I'm a bit tense this weekend. Reason is my first grandson is due by Monday and everything is a bit "adjacent" if you get my meaning? Cheers, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 4 16:11:07 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 15:11:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel gauge In-Reply-To: <35DC5860-4688-4508-BAE4-B6D92D7B8AD0@cox.net> Message-ID: <20080104231107.WVQG12682.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Is there a simple way to test whether a TR3 fuel gauge is > operating properly? Take a piece of coat hanger (or baling wire if you're from the midwest) and use it to manipulate the float in the tank. Push the float to the bottom, gauge should read empty. Pull it to the top, gauge should read full. Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Jan 4 16:48:41 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 23:48:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel gauge Message-ID: <010420082348.24723.477EC5D9000519220000609322155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Hmmm... If we're using the TR coathanger tool to put test the float in a gas tank, the question is, do we need to "coat" the hanger with anything? Oh, silly me. We should just use a water jacket. Heh heh on a Friday night in sub zero North East where the freezing cold leaves no other entertainment than ridiculous puns to patient enthusiasts. Terry ('59 TR3A set to bed for the winter like a peevish teen.) New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > Is there a simple way to test whether a TR3 fuel gauge is > > operating properly? > > Take a piece of coat hanger (or baling wire if you're from the midwest) and > use it to manipulate the float in the tank. Push the float to the bottom, > gauge should read empty. Pull it to the top, gauge should read full. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Jan 4 17:01:18 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 17:01:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel gauge In-Reply-To: <35DC5860-4688-4508-BAE4-B6D92D7B8AD0@cox.net> References: <35DC5860-4688-4508-BAE4-B6D92D7B8AD0@cox.net> Message-ID: In case you find a problem when you manipulate the arm... just about everything you need to know about these gauges is here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm It's for an MGA but that is the same gauge as our TRs. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "60TR3A" <60TR3A at cox.net> To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 3:55 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel gauge > Is there a simple way to test whether a TR3 fuel gauge is operating > properly? From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jan 4 17:46:22 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 19:46:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? Message-ID: <001901c84f34$665b43d0$210110ac@bobspc> Don sent me pictures of his TR6 Rear disc conversion and it's so nice looking that I posted it on my web site. You can see it here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/don_watson.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1208 - Release Date: 1/3/2008 3:52 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jan 4 18:56:04 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 20:56:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FF1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <477A9EDC.7090601@maine.rr.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FF1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <002a01c84f3e$24bc8380$210110ac@bobspc> Dave, I was in Sears tonight and saw this light set up and can see how the plastic piece could break but it could only happen through serious mis-use by the user, The plastic latch is quite sturdy and is spring loaded with a metal pin that engages the holes in the inner column. If you try and release the latch WITHOUT taking the weight off of the locking pin, you could break it but it wouldn't be easy. The warning label states that you have to relieve the pressure on the locking pin by lifting the support before unlatching it..........or words to that effect. I wouldn't hesitate to buy it now that I've seen the construction and how it works. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 6:12 PM To: forzion at maine.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? Dave, I bought this tripod lamp with two 500w halogen lamp unit from Sears for around $40. The system has adjustable height and the lamp unit detaches for working in areas where the tripod cant go like under the car. It has been perfect for my winter projects. It puts out serious amounts of light and heat, both of which I appreciate this year (Northern MA) http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03473828000P?keyword=halogen Here is the lamp in action. Apologies in advance for the wrapped URL(s). http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/DS C _0032.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 3:13 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? Hello Listers! And a Happy New Year to you all from snowy (again/still) Maine! Does anyone have a good model of tripod worklight to recommend? Something similar to the item shown here (but at a more affordable price) would be good. http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=SL086&cat=2835 I didn't care for the reviews given for the Sears model at: http://snipurl.com/1waoj All inputs appreciated! Cheers! Dave Friedlander CF25194U+O+TBI 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1205 - Release Date: 12/31/2007 3:32 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1208 - Release Date: 1/3/2008 3:52 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jan 4 20:37:40 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 22:37:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? In-Reply-To: <477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> <477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <004101c84f4c$56379090$210110ac@bobspc> Glenn.......... Spend some time going through Joe's web site and you'll be awestruck by the stuff he has done! It doesnt matter whether you love or hate these kind of conversions..... you have to love the execution and the quality of the work on his car. It's one of the best, if not the best, thought out conversion that I've seen. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn A. Merrell Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 9:59 PM To: Joseph Grant Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? Joseph Grant wrote: > The setup on my TR6 is very similar to the one Don came up with. I've > had mine for two years of actual use. > > You can see more about my setup here: > http://www.bowtie6.com/tr6_pics/brakes/Gallery1/index.html > > > > Joe > '72 TR6 - CC77169 > http://www.bowtie6.com/ > Joe, Please, Do tell us all about that differential and axles conversion! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1208 - Release Date: 1/3/2008 3:52 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1208 - Release Date: 1/3/2008 3:52 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jan 4 21:02:30 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 23:02:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oberg Follow Up Message-ID: <004801c84f4f$cccee160$210110ac@bobspc> Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions on using the Oberg Tilt Sling. It was 8 degrees yesterday morning at 8:30 AM and my friend Al was due at 10 AM to help me pull the engine and tranny. My 55K BTU kerosene heater got the garage real comfy (45 - 50 degrees) by the time he arrived, so temperature wasn't a problem. The Oberg made the job so easy. Al has pulled quite a few engines going back to his drag racing days and he said he'll never pull another engine without the Oberg. That's how easy it was. The two best tips I got from the List was: Use a breaker bar for making the Oberg adjustments and use wood blocks to protect the valve cover and/or valve train. The breaker bar gives you the extra leverage you need to counteract the weight of the engine.........not a big deal. The wood blocks at the lifting eyes eliminated any damage to the valve cover by the cables. And yes........the front lifting eye did bend in slightly. I'll straighten it out after re-installing everything. No web site update yet.......maybe over the weekend I'll find time. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1208 - Release Date: 1/3/2008 3:52 PM From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jan 4 23:35:50 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2008 06:35:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <010520080635.22197.477F2546000A5C1F000056B522058844849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me Twelve tweed cloth caps Eleven miles of twisties Ten six-point wrenches Nine Nomex outfits Eight heart-shaped waffles Seven Lotus Sevens Six Jimmy Clark gloves FIVE MINILITES Four Hoosier slicks Three Italian air horns Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. Sadly, only two of these are literally true, but her true love for 35 years certainly counts for something! The number 11 is brought to you by Bill Kille, Vice President of the Delaware Valley Miata Club. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sat Jan 5 07:09:36 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2008 09:09:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Emissions in the future-is retrofitting possible? In-Reply-To: <005301c84d46$344b2ad0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> References: <4775BA60.70505@tscusa.org> <6BA2E218-1FF3-498A-8041-FF5AFB5C3B3F@blakedischer.com> <005301c84d46$344b2ad0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <477F8FA0.6090809@earthlink.net> I am missing something here? Aren't they cutting their own throats by pushing useless crusades? Oh, and what did the pass here in Florida? I missed that. Nothing has changed for my Triumph. It is still listed as Historical. Joe Nolan wrote: > Huh, wonder which things SEMA is claiming victory on in Maryland. > > We had a bill (HB1267) to allow cars 25 years old and more to be exempted > from testing. Current law requires testing for anything after 1976. That > bill didn't make it out of committee. Is SEMA claiming that as a victory? > > In previous years, SEMA submitted bills to eliminate our existing exemptions > for historic cars and such, and to completely eliminate the streetrod > category of license plates. Thankfully, SEMA lost those, with some lobbying > help from me and others against SEMAs attempt to restrict the heck out of > hotrods and such. > > Keep your eyes open with SEMA. They don't seem to research things much when > they go off on a crusade. And once they are crusading, no facts or existing > laws will sway them from their course. > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > >> In my role as President of The Vintage Triumph Register (VTR), I am in >> contact with the folks at the SEMA Action Network (SEMASAN), which is >> an arm of SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market Association). SEMA is a >> trade association for manufacturers which produce parts for the motor >> vehicle aftermarket. A big portion of their member's customer base >> are the hot-rodders, street-rodders and antique/classic car enthusiasts. >> >> During 2007, their efforts helped win legislative victories in issues >> effecting old car enthusiasts in Arizona, Arkansas, California, >> Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, >> Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Maryland, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Montana, >> Nevada, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Texas, Virginia, West >> Virginia and Wyoming. Colorado is on their radar, their last success >> there was in 2006 in a bill concerning vehicle smog inspections for >> kit cars. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Jan 5 15:43:33 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2008 15:43:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? In-Reply-To: <004101c84f4c$56379090$210110ac@bobspc> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> <477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> <004101c84f4c$56379090$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <47800815.80707@tscusa.org> Bob Danielson wrote: > Glenn.......... Spend some time going through Joe's web site and you'll be > awestruck by the stuff he has done! It doesnt matter whether you love or > hate these kind of conversions..... you have to love the execution and the > quality of the work on his car. It's one of the best, if not the best, > thought out conversion that I've seen. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > Yeah, after I saw the photos i went to the main site and got the whole story on Bowtie6. Nice work Joe! See the whole project at http://www.bowtie6.com/ -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From bill_beecher at flash.net Sat Jan 5 19:28:40 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill beecher) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 19:28:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine re-build tips? Message-ID: <20080106022859.900121879D0@autox.team.net> Hello List, Just getting ready to re-build the TR3 motor, I have the Restoration Manual book from Roger Williams and the Service Instruction Manual off the CD-ROM (Bentley's?). Are there any other places to use for reference as it goes back together to avoid the little pitfalls that seem to take so much time and avoid serious problems later? Thanks! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1210 - Release Date: 1/5/2008 11:46 AM From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat Jan 5 20:02:18 2008 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 21:02:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] Dan Masters tr3 book Message-ID: Fred and the rest of the listers, At one point Dan was working on a wiring book for the TR2-3 cars. Does anyone know if he completed it or is still working on it?Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA'63 TR3B TCF587LThat ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!See it moves! From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat Jan 5 20:12:40 2008 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 21:12:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] test message Message-ID: This is a test message to check line feedsline 2line 3line 4Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA'63 TR3B TCF587LThat ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!See it moves! From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Jan 6 12:34:31 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 14:34:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] I thought I knew these things! Message-ID: <008701c8509b$2ad8bfa0$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hello, I've got two questions: 1. I took out my distributor from an engine that had been running, noting the position of the rotor. The shaft appears off-set to one-side supposedly preventing me from re-inserting it differently. When I turned the dizzy upside down a nut, a lockwasher and a tiny bead of broken-off solder fell out. I was not too alarmed. But then I attempted to rotate the shaft while it was still upssidewn (I had previously removed the points). and I found the turning rough! Once , It did-not turn at all, for a second. I righted it, installed the points and condenser, and correctly got it back in position moounted on the engine. Turning the engine over with the crankshaft pulley with a socket-wrench requires a good deal of effort and therefore I can't gauge any resistance that might be just due to the dizzy alone. But turning the engine over by hand does seem to turn the cam approatiely. Was the dizzy's turning irregularity (albeit upside down) a concern? 2. Upon reattempting to set my points, I am seeing that their red plastic arm (that rubs the four sided cam) only makes contact with the cam on the courners where it seems to correctly open to .015 at the widest part of it's opening, right? Thanks, Paul 60 TR3A From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Sun Jan 6 19:38:27 2008 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 18:38:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] Does anyone have the stainless steel luggage rack from Victoria British? Message-ID: <000001c850d6$61e77000$b1191718@computer> Does anyone have the stainless steel luggage rack from Victoria British? I'm just trying to find out if you like it, the overall finish, and the actual size? Thanks, Jim Two '74 TR6s [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jan 6 20:22:46 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2008 22:22:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] I thought I knew these things! In-Reply-To: <008701c8509b$2ad8bfa0$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <478154B6.20243.A9F5615@localhost> Hi, Paul. On 6 Jan 2008 at 14:34, you wrote: > When I turned the dizzy upside down a nut, a lockwasher and a > tiny bead of broken-off solder fell out... > But then I attempted to rotate the shaft while it was still > upsiden ... and I found the turning rough! This sounds like a screw or washer or something is rattling around inside, probably under the points mounting plate. I would guess that it probably is not down in the shaft bearing itself because there probably isn't any way for something to get in. I once had the tip break off the rotor in my Porsche. The little piece of brass jammed up something so hard that the whole dizzy froze and the shaft itself spun up out the block until the drive cogs came undone. (Of course, the engine stopped dead.) I couldn't see anything from the top. But after I removed the dizzy from the block and played with it on my desk for a while, I got the shaft to spin and the piece fell out. Then it spun easily again. I put it back in the car, saved myself a lot of money for a new dizzy. You should not try to run it like that. Take the dizzy out of the block, turn it over, shake it, rotate the shaft, shake it some more, do whatever it takes to remove anything which might be loose inside. Shake it and listen for something rattling. When you are confident it doesn't have anything loose inside, spin it again. The only resistance should be a very tiny amount from the cam lobes hitting the points, if the points have been installed. With no points it should spin free and easy. You may even have to take some of it apart from the top. I don't know what a TR3 dizzy looks like so I don't know how hard this would be. If you do this, make careful note of where everything is and what screws go where. If you have to, get some help from someone who has done it before. But do not leave it like that. You really don't want anything rattling around inside. > Turning the engine over with the crankshaft pulley with a > socket-wrench requires a good deal of effort and therefore I > can't gauge any resistance that might be just due to the dizzy > alone. That is correct. The rings and the various bearings have a lot of friction, so you would never be able to feel a bit of extra effort by turning the crank pulley unless it is stuck completely. On the other hand, the dizzy itself should spin easy when removed from the block. Of course, Randall is right about how the cam touches the points' bearing for only part of the rotation. The points are closed when the cam isn't forcing them open, then they open for a bit when the cam lobe comes by and pushes on the bearing surface. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Jan 6 20:40:16 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2008 20:40:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Was Disc Brake Project, now Triumph Trans Am 2009, Any Interest? In-Reply-To: <002c01c8500c$11a7ac10$8215a8c0@garage.local> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com><477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> <004101c84f4c$56379090$210110ac@bobspc> <47800815.80707@tscusa.org> <002c01c8500c$11a7ac10$8215a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <47819F20.8080204@tscusa.org> Oliver wrote: > Glenn - > > according to jonmac you volunteered to rebuild the engine and tranny > on the stag? is the club involved? > > just curious! > > dave northrup Hi Dave, Thanks for asking about the Triumph Trans AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009. You should visit the Triumph Trans AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009 web site for the complete details. http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ The short story is, I am "coordinating" the sourcing and restoration of the Stag that will make this +10k mile trip across North America. I am also assisting John in other areas for this drive. So this means I am still actively looking for a complete donor Stag, complete donated Stag, or beneficiaries to donate a Stag. ISOA has volunteered to do all the body and possibly suspension. Another Club is discussing the engine and transmission rebuild. A few others are discussing their involvement such as enroute support, and several restoration shops have already volunteered any necessary services when the car passes through. I am also looking for clubs who have truck/trailer/driver access to move this car and misc parts between the clubs who are doing the restoration bits. Although I am coordinating this car portion of the drive, I will most likely have a hand personally in the restoration as it progresses, and I anticipate driving some of the route with John, and hopefully many others. Is TSC USA involved? Well TSC USA is now a board run club, and all I can say is that the subject has been discussed in the last 3 board meetings, the degree of involvement is currently under discussion by the board. For a national club, it is difficult to coordinate such support with over 320 members spread all over North America. If you have recommendations or suggestions on how TSC USA can be involved, I am sure the board would love to hear ideas. I hope to have the donor car sourced by the end of January 2008, and in ISOA hands absolutely no later than the end of March 2008 to commence the body restoration. We have had a couple of "close ones" but either missed out, or a day late and a dollar short. There is one in Youngstown NY that looks to be a very suitable candidate, but we really need a benefactor to snatch it up for the charity drive. Anyway, more on the car status in the coming week. Many clubs are discussing involvement at heir holiday parties, and several have already contacted myself and John Macartney. Cheers! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 7 08:20:32 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 15:20:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] I thought I knew these things! In-Reply-To: <008701c8509b$2ad8bfa0$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <008701c8509b$2ad8bfa0$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: I might of done some further inspection of the dizzy to assure myself that there were no obstructions in it. The points should only open on the high point of the cam so you are good there. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 7 09:52:56 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 11:52:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter Message-ID: <000001c8514d$c254ad00$210110ac@bobspc> Anyone familiar with him or his starters? http://tinyurl.com/2tfezl Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1212 - Release Date: 1/6/2008 10:55 PM From mrm at clking.com Mon Jan 7 10:33:26 2008 From: mrm at clking.com (Mitch R. Meisler) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 12:33:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter In-Reply-To: <000001c8514d$c254ad00$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c8514d$c254ad00$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <30E72F324648024B956BC3B3C1CF9B240172DE5E@clking01exc02.clkingw2k.local> i've bot plenty from him on ebay, but not his starters. but given personal experience with other products, would think his gear reduction starters would be high quality Mitch Meisler Managing Director, Institutional Sales CL King & Associates 410 Park Avenue, 16th floor New York, NY 10022 212-572-3633-work 518-528-2263-cell AOL IM = MEISLERCLKA E-MAIL = mrm at clking.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 11:53 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter Anyone familiar with him or his starters? http://tinyurl.com/2tfezl Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1212 - Release Date: 1/6/2008 10:55 PM ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________ From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Jan 7 10:44:37 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 12:44:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] alignment, you dodo! Message-ID: <00bd01c85154$fabecc50$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am thinking that the Bentley Manual specification is still accurate for my TR3A. Is this true? The reason I question it is that: I am an amatuer, the '60 TR3A proably has about 75,000 miles on it, and tire composition has dramatically changed over the years. Also does 165 vs. 185 tire width alter this setting? I wish to ask about outer tie rod length. The original manual says they should be 7.68" (or almost 7 11/16ths inches). I hate to sound like a smart-elic(sp?), but, why is it adjustable if this is a 'given'. And don't just say, "alignment, you dodo!" Thanks, Paul Dorsey TS 71318L From vitop at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 7 10:48:50 2008 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 11:48:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Looking for a set of TR6 A/C mounting brackets Message-ID: <0c3801c85155$903d36e0$6601a8c0@serverxp> Does anyone have a set of mounting brackets for a TR6 and a York compressor? I am looking for the large top bracket as well as the lower one that looks like a rod with bolt flanges on it. Thanks! From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Jan 7 11:18:46 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 13:18:46 EST Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation Message-ID: In a message dated 12/26/2007 12:17:27 PM Mountain Standard Time, pfischer at rmi.net writes: However, since we all are a little shaky on the terms - agreed vs. stated - it's very important to ask the question of your agent: Which do I have on my car? And what happens if...? Pat I know I'm late chiming in, but I don't have either stated or agreed value on my cars. They call it, I think, replacement value. My wife just wrecked the 93 Toyota Celica, 55000 miles on it. USAA, in about 10 days, sent us a check for $5700.00, and we got to keep the car. My mechanic and body man is fixing it for a little under $3000.00 and will respray the entire car. Since it stayed in my name, there should be no "salvage" title problems either. I haven't had a claim on the TR or MGs yet, but I anticipate similar service. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From JoeCainPE at aol.com Mon Jan 7 13:18:25 2008 From: JoeCainPE at aol.com (JoeCainPE at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 15:18:25 EST Subject: [TR] TTSCC Body & Paint workshop, San Jose 1/12 Message-ID: Have you ever considered painting your own car? Doing your own body work? If you're near San Jose, California, this Saturday January 12th, Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club is hosting a body & paint workshop. We will meet at 10:00 a.m. at the shop of a local street rod builder and restoration specialist. He will walk us through his process and show us examples of works in progress, including a big Healey and a nearly-completed TR4. We will also have a representative of FinishMaster, suppliers of automotive and industrial paint, to talk with us about current lines of materials and upcoming regulations, including the mandated transition to water-borne paints in the not-so-distant future. A question-and-answer period should be most informative. Please contact me for details if interested. TTSCC is celebrating our 50th anniversary in 2008. Come join us! New members always welcome. Joe Cain JoeCainPE at aol dot com (cleverly disguised so as to foil the evil deeds of spam-bots) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Jan 7 13:19:38 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 15:19:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 help needed now Message-ID: <00d001c8516a$a267e440$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Can I send a digital photo to one or more individuals on this list to help me with a small problem I am having today? I am right now reassembling steering gear, and I am afraid my centre tie rod is installed upside down. Unfortunatly, it's hard to tell how it goes from me looking at the Moss Catalog Picture.??????????????? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 tr3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 7 14:15:48 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 13:15:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] alignment, you dodo! In-Reply-To: <00bd01c85154$fabecc50$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00bd01c85154$fabecc50$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <053401c85172$7998ae70$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I am thinking that the Bentley Manual specification is still > accurate for my > TR3A. Is this true? Close enough. That's not to say there isn't room for improvement, if you are going racing or whatnot, but for ordinary street use the factory settings will be fine. And since only toe-in is normally adjustable, anything else falls under the heading of modifications anyway. > I wish to ask about outer tie rod length. The original > manual says they > should be 7.68" (or almost 7 11/16ths inches). I hate to sound like a > smart-elic(sp?), but, why is it adjustable if this is a > 'given'. Those are 'nominal' values, meaning they can vary somewhat. If it turns out that 7.50" is what gets the toe-in correct, then that's the right value. You may have noticed that it's also very difficult to measure the length accurately ... Randall From 60TR3A at cox.net Mon Jan 7 15:15:37 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 15:15:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Old racing photos Message-ID: <73C729AE-9687-4DAB-A863-1BE4164A02DC@cox.net> An old colleague of mine who actually photographed the old Northern California sports car races for R&T sent me this link to some pictures from 1953. Just thought some of you might be interested! http://www.tamsoldracecarsite.net/GH000Homepage.html John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From ray at raysmg.com Mon Jan 7 15:18:48 2008 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 15:18:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 help needed now Message-ID: <20080107151848.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.a29ae900d5.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Paul, you're more than welcome to come over and crawl under my TR3 to take a look. As you may recall, I rebuilt the front suspension and steering last winter; all appears to be well with the work done. I've even decided that the "string alignment" I did as a preliminary to getting it to an alignment shop was dead on as I've not made it to an alignment shop and there's no shimmy, shake, or abnormal tire wear. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jan 7 15:23:22 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 22:23:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] tr3 help needed now Message-ID: <010720082223.22936.4782A65A0004A7740000599822070210539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Paul Dorsey" > Can I send a digital photo to one or more individuals on this list flickr.com is free! From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jan 7 15:32:28 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 22:32:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] Old racing photos Message-ID: <010720082232.15112.4782A87C00055E1C00003B0822007636929D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: 60TR3A <60TR3A at cox.net> > An old colleague of mine who actually photographed the old Northern > California sports car races for R&T sent me this link to some pictures > from 1953. Just thought some of you might be interested! > > http://www.tamsoldracecarsite.net/GH000Homepage.html Great stuff! For some reason, the Golden Gate Park pictures don't open. I'll try at home on my other system. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jan 7 16:04:26 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 18:04:26 EST Subject: [TR] tr3 help needed now Message-ID: Gosh Paul, Do like the rest of us do. Install it. Find out it's upside down. Do it again. I'll send a picture. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 7 16:52:28 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 18:52:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 help needed now In-Reply-To: <00d001c8516a$a267e440$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00d001c8516a$a267e440$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: > Can I send a digital photo to one or more individuals on this list to help me> with a small problem I am having today? I am right now reassembling steering> gear, and I am afraid my centre tie rod is installed upside down.> Unfortunatly, it's hard to tell how it goes from me looking at the Moss> Catalog Picture.???????????????> > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 tr3 There's an easy way to tell the correct way to install the center tie rod. The drain hole goes on top. John From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jan 7 17:36:51 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 19:36:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 help needed now In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <47827F53.15051.F2DC998@localhost> On 7 Jan 2008 at 18:04, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > Do like the rest of us do. Install it. Find out it's upside > down. Do it again. Turn the car over, install it the same way, then turn the car back over. :-) Um, I ferget, what were we talking about? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jan 7 17:57:08 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 17:57:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] alignment, you dodo! In-Reply-To: <00bd01c85154$fabecc50$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080108005728.63711187B4C@autox.team.net> Alignment is alignment regardless of the tires you are running, set it to spec as I don't think you have significantly tinker with your stock front end set-up. IMHO on the rod length is to get you to a beginning point with both tie-rod ends at equal lengths to make it drivable to a shop for a professional alignment job. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 10:45 AM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] alignment, you dodo! I am thinking that the Bentley Manual specification is still accurate for my TR3A. Is this true? The reason I question it is that: I am an amatuer, the '60 TR3A proably has about 75,000 miles on it, and tire composition has dramatically changed over the years. Also does 165 vs. 185 tire width alter this setting? I wish to ask about outer tie rod length. The original manual says they should be 7.68" (or almost 7 11/16ths inches). I hate to sound like a smart-elic(sp?), but, why is it adjustable if this is a 'given'. And don't just say, "alignment, you dodo!" Thanks, Paul Dorsey TS 71318L This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 9:14 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 9:14 AM From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Mon Jan 7 18:39:23 2008 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 17:39:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome Message-ID: <000001c85197$4da5eb50$b1191718@computer> When I bought my '74 TR6, it had a luggage rack. It looks exactly like the one Moss sells and the dimensions match as well. Moss sells these as stainless steel but they sure look like chrome to me. Of course, if it is stainless, I can polish it and make it beautiful but if it is chrome and I polish it like it was stainless then I'll ruin it. It is not in bad shape at all but it definitely will take more polishing than I could do to chrome. Does anyone have any experience with these luggage racks and know how to tell what material they are? Thanks, Jim Sacramento [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From NPaul72464 at aol.com Mon Jan 7 19:56:17 2008 From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 21:56:17 EST Subject: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome Message-ID: Hmmm, it seems to me that, if it's stainless, a magnet shouldn't stick to it. Ned Paulsen, '59 tr3a **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Mon Jan 7 21:23:07 2008 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 20:23:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000001c851ae$2b920b90$b1191718@computer> Thanks Ned. You know I would think the same thing except that I do believe that low grade stainless is somewhat magnetic and I also believe that chrome plating lessens the magnetism of steel. The net results on my rack are that I used a strong magnet (150 lb pull) and the magnet attaches to it pretty readily. I was hoping that some people from the board would tell me if there luggage rack is stainless or not and if theirs is then now the question would be whether it is magnetic or not. Jim -----Original Message----- From: NPaul72464 at aol.com [mailto:NPaul72464 at aol.com] Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 6:56 PM To: jimhearn1 at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome Hmmm, it seems to me that, if it's stainless, a magnet shouldn't stick to it. Ned Paulsen, '59 tr3a _____ Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new year. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 7 21:39:37 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 20:39:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080108043937.RWSA12121.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Hmmm, it seems to me that, if it's stainless, a magnet > shouldn't stick to it. That would depend on the grade of stainless; some do and some don't. Generally the less expensive grades are magnetic (tho the converse is not necessarily true). Randall From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jan 8 05:36:36 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 07:36:36 EST Subject: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome Message-ID: This is a total WAG but if there are welds on the rack would the plating not "fill them in" more than an unplated weld on stainless? Maybe it has no welds. (?) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Jan 8 05:46:09 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 07:46:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome References: Message-ID: <002a01c851f4$7183c3f0$6501a8c0@userb38463fba5> I have a chrome rack and have seen the SS Racks on a TR4A and visually you can see the difference between the two. I'd try some simple Chrome polish and see what difference that makes, if it shines it's chrome if it doesn't change it's SS It really is that easy. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 7:36 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome > This is a total WAG but if there are welds on the rack would the plating > not > "fill them in" more than an unplated weld on stainless? Maybe it has no > welds. (?) > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jerryvv at roadrunner.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 > 9:14 AM From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 8 06:42:14 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 08:42:14 EST Subject: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome Message-ID: In a message dated 1/7/2008 8:56:41 PM Central Standard Time, NPaul72464 at aol.com writes: > Hmmm, it seems to me that, if it's stainless, a magnet shouldn't stick to > it. > That's tough to do over the internet. Seriously, one could argue that although 300 series stainless is not magnetic, 400 series is. But it is very unlikely that they would make a luggage rack out of 400 series stainless. Cheers Dave From ydna.rolyat at gmail.com Tue Jan 8 06:49:33 2008 From: ydna.rolyat at gmail.com (Andrew Taylor) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 08:49:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless Message-ID: <5244b1de0801080549o4584257blcad774c8a043204c@mail.gmail.com> Have any of you seen this? http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.html Andy Taylor '62 TR4 CT16725 Boston From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 8 07:05:40 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 09:05:40 EST Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless Message-ID: In a message dated 1/8/2008 7:49:47 AM Central Standard Time, ydna.rolyat at gmail.com writes: > http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.html It's nice to see a copy that isn't all snowy from being a copy of a copy of a copy ... after the cheap conversion from PAL to NTSC. It's more impressive on a big screen. Dave From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 8 07:18:29 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 14:18:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless Message-ID: <010820081418.10595.4783863500053FBF0000296322070032019D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Andrew Taylor" > Have any of you seen this? > > http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.html "On an August morning in 1978, French filmmaker Claude Lelouch mounted a gyro-stabilized camera to the bumper of a Ferrari 275 GTB and had a friend, a professional Formula 1 racer, drive at breakneck speed through the heart of Paris. No streets were closed, for Lelouch was unable to obtain a permit." The legend continues. But it's not true. The car was a Mercedes and Lelouch himself was driving. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From ydna.rolyat at gmail.com Tue Jan 8 07:23:07 2008 From: ydna.rolyat at gmail.com (Andrew Taylor) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 09:23:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless In-Reply-To: <010820081418.10595.4783863500053FBF0000296322070032019D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <010820081418.10595.4783863500053FBF0000296322070032019D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5244b1de0801080623h1c35ff5ao1b6d5c237da372fd@mail.gmail.com> Found this on the web: http://forums.subdriven.com/zerothread?id=2640522 I did not know anything about this, but have been to Paris many times and was amazed to see the route along with the video. Andy Taylor '62 TR4 CT16725 Boston On Jan 8, 2008 9:18 AM, wrote: > From: "Andrew Taylor" > > Have any of you seen this? > > > > http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.html > > "On an August morning in 1978, French filmmaker Claude Lelouch mounted a gyro-stabilized camera to the bumper of a Ferrari 275 GTB and had a friend, a professional Formula 1 racer, drive at breakneck speed through the heart of Paris. > > No streets were closed, for Lelouch was unable to obtain a permit." > > The legend continues. But it's not true. The car was a Mercedes and Lelouch himself was driving. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, > 1994 Miata C package > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 8 07:31:12 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 14:31:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless Message-ID: <010820081431.1575.478389300003EAEF0000062722007504389D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Dave1massey at cs.com > In a message dated 1/8/2008 7:49:47 AM Central Standard Time, > ydna.rolyat at gmail.com writes: > > http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.html > > It's nice to see a copy that isn't all snowy from being a copy of a copy of a > copy ... after the cheap conversion from PAL to NTSC. > > It's more impressive on a big screen. You can buy the official not-bootlegged DVD now. Decades ago, I saw it in 16mm, but I have no idea of the pedigree. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 8 08:04:41 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 08:04:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless In-Reply-To: <5244b1de0801080549o4584257blcad774c8a043204c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20080108150458.52860187A3B@autox.team.net> The video doesn't look like he is going all that fast, compared to the engine revs... Kind of like my TR3, sounds great running up through the gears to 40mph! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Taylor Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 6:50 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless Have any of you seen this? http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.html Andy Taylor '62 TR4 CT16725 Boston This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 9:14 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 9:14 AM From red_tr250 at hotmail.com Tue Jan 8 08:13:47 2008 From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 10:13:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome In-Reply-To: <000001c85197$4da5eb50$b1191718@computer> References: <000001c85197$4da5eb50$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: Hi Jim, One way to tell if it's the original chrome version...the horizontal bars (meaning side to side) are not perfectly round...they have a flat spot (as if they were round & then squished) on both top & bottom. The stainless repops are round. I've noticed some of the repops...they're just not built as nice...some of the welds aren't as clean as the original. Cheers, Todd Bermudez 6-PACK Editor> From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net> To: triumphs at autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 17:39:23 -0800> Subject: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome> > When I bought my '74 TR6, it had a luggage rack. It looks exactly like the> one Moss sells and the dimensions match as well. Moss sells these as> stainless steel but they sure look like chrome to me. Of course, if it is> stainless, I can polish it and make it beautiful but if it is chrome and I> polish it like it was stainless then I'll ruin it. It is not in bad shape> at all but it definitely will take more polishing than I could do to chrome.> Does anyone have any experience with these luggage racks and know how to> tell what material they are?> > Thanks, Jim> Sacramento> _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_012008 From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Jan 8 09:45:06 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 11:45:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless In-Reply-To: <5244b1de0801080549o4584257blcad774c8a043204c@mail.gmail.com> References: <5244b1de0801080549o4584257blcad774c8a043204c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: > Have any of you seen this?> > http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.html> > Andy Taylor> '62 TR4 CT16725> Boston The first time I saw it was years and years ago at a Triumph Club meeting. Got me a speeding ticket on the way home to prove it. 82 in a 50 at 2:30 A.M. John From eoot at citlink.net Tue Jan 8 09:54:23 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 11:54:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless References: <5244b1de0801080549o4584257blcad774c8a043204c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <012701c85217$1f59e690$670a0a0a@MyComputski> "Got me a speeding ticket on the way home to prove it. 82 in a 50 at 2:30 A.M." Now was that in the TR3? ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Herrera" To: "Andrew Taylor" ; Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 11:45 AM Subject: Re: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless >> Have any of you seen this?> > > http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.html> > Andy > Taylor> > '62 TR4 CT16725> Boston > > > The first time I saw it was years and years ago at a Triumph Club meeting. > > Got me a speeding ticket on the way home to prove it. 82 in a 50 at 2:30 > A.M. > > John > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Jan 8 10:33:39 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 12:33:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless In-Reply-To: <012701c85217$1f59e690$670a0a0a@MyComputski> References: <5244b1de0801080549o4584257blcad774c8a043204c@mail.gmail.com> <012701c85217$1f59e690$670a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: > "Got me a speeding ticket on the way home to prove it. 82 in a 50 at 2:30 > A.M."> > Now was that in the TR3? Nope, Ed. SAAB 900 on Maryland Rt. 27 south of Manchester. I forget why I wasn't driving the TR3. It was in too many pieces probably. By the way, I see that you are mentioned, although not by name, in the TRA Newsletter. "One of our party lost the clutch MC..." Or something like that. John From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 8 11:35:11 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 18:35:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless Message-ID: <010820081835.27304.4783C25F0002076F00006AA822070032019D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "wbeech" > The video doesn't look like he is going all that fast, compared to the > engine revs... Kind of like my TR3, sounds great running up through the > gears to 40mph! The engine sound is irrelevant. It was a silent camera. The sound was added in post. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From eoot at citlink.net Tue Jan 8 11:37:00 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 13:37:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless References: <5244b1de0801080549o4584257blcad774c8a043204c@mail.gmail.com> <012701c85217$1f59e690$670a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: <013701c85225$75052c40$670a0a0a@MyComputski> oh swell...just the kind of notoriety I would prefer to avoid! More notable was that you had a spare with you! ----- Original Message ----- From: John Herrera To: Ed Oot ; Andrew Taylor ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 12:33 PM Subject: RE: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless > "Got me a speeding ticket on the way home to prove it. 82 in a 50 at 2:30 > A.M." > > Now was that in the TR3? Nope, Ed. SAAB 900 on Maryland Rt. 27 south of Manchester. I forget why I wasn't driving the TR3. It was in too many pieces probably. By the way, I see that you are mentioned, although not by name, in the TRA Newsletter. "One of our party lost the clutch MC..." Or something like that. John From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com Tue Jan 8 12:09:42 2008 From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 13:09:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] Does anyone have this TR6 hardtop part? Message-ID: I'm in the process of restoring a factory hardtop for my TR6 and find that I'm missing the middle 'listing rail' - this is the middle rod that holds up the headliner on inside the hardtop. I could make one but it would be easier to find an original replacement. Does anyone have a spare middle 'listing rail' - or know where I could obtain one? I have by the way already tried all the usual US and UK suppliers to no avail - so this would likely have to be a garage or wrecker find. Thanks in advance. Happy New Year by the way to all the great and helpful members on this list! Cheers, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Jan 8 13:09:28 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 15:09:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] not Triumph related but fun nonetheless In-Reply-To: <013701c85225$75052c40$670a0a0a@MyComputski> References: <5244b1de0801080549o4584257blcad774c8a043204c@mail.gmail.com> <012701c85217$1f59e690$670a0a0a@MyComputski> <013701c85225$75052c40$670a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: By the way, I see that you are mentioned, although not by name, in the TRA Newsletter. "One of our party lost the clutch MC..." Or something like that. John oh swell...just the kind of notoriety I would prefer to avoid! More notable was that you had a spare with you! Sorry to "out" you! I, however, was not mentioned in the article at all, so you have now "outed" me in return! John From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jan 8 19:22:11 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 21:22:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] chrome exhaust tip Message-ID: <200801082122.11985.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hello, Does anyone know of a supplier of chrome exhaust tips that fit the following requirements? 1. must fit over a 1 7/8 inch (OD) exhaust pipe, tight fit. 2. About 4 to 6 inches in total length. 3. Clamp on either with built in clamp or a regular muffler clamp. 4. Slash cut. I have looked at Jegs and JC whitney but they dont seem to have what I need. I have a Bell stainless system and dont want to cut the existing pipe to fit one of those monza dual exhaust (although they do look nice). All I really need is about 4 to 6 inches to just put the exhaust at or about the rear bumper. Thanks, Bob From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Jan 8 19:10:06 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 21:10:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 help needed now- resolution Message-ID: <017b01c85264$c2915210$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Yesterday, I asked for some help determining if I had installed my centre tie rod upside down and turned-around. Because of a neighbor on this list, thank goodness, Ray M., I was shown pictures of this part during a rebuild. John Gillis also sent a confirming picture, which was also consistent with Ray's photos. Some responses were 'tangential'. John H. sent me an email saying, "install it with the drain holes up." I really didn't put much stock at all in his answer. As it turns out the 2 holes do go up higher, (So that the bar between the holes runs below the two holes!) This possibly removes some confusion when taking it to a machinist, as I did, to press out and with orders to reinstall the silent blocs. Tonight I took pictures of how it might look if the silent blocs were installed correctly, and pictures of how it would look if they were installed upside down. (I can send you those pics). Although the difference would proably be felt in the steering, their 'orientation appearance' is strikingly similar!! It's very true, "THE HOLES DO GO ON TOP". But John, their not 'drain holes', the outer tie rods go in them! Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 p.s. The manual's diagram shows this, but is RHD and not true to scale and depth challenging! From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Tue Jan 8 20:00:37 2008 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Patricia Donnelly) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 19:00:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] Trying to figure out if a luggage rack is stainless or chrome In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <478438D5.20007@san.rr.com> How hard can you guys make this? Leave the car outside for a week. If it still looks good, it's stainless! The chrome ones from Moss, TRF and Victoria rust in a day or two outside if they're not constantly waxed. Johnnie Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 1/7/2008 8:56:41 PM Central Standard Time, > NPaul72464 at aol.com writes: > >> Hmmm, it seems to me that, if it's stainless, a magnet shouldn't stick to >> it. >> >> > That's tough to do over the internet. > > Seriously, one could argue that although 300 series stainless is not > magnetic, 400 series is. But it is very unlikely that they would make a luggage rack > out of 400 series stainless. > > Cheers > Dave > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pdonnel1 at san.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From jefflee77 at earthlink.net Wed Jan 9 09:26:13 2008 From: jefflee77 at earthlink.net (Jeff) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 11:26:13 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] subscription help Message-ID: <26950937.1199895974170.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Sorry to bomb the list with this... I'm trying to subscribe to this list with a new email address, could not find "Triumph" on the list of categories. I noticed that list activity has stopped over the four hours. Any advice, ideas, sollutions? Jeff '63 TR4 CT 21244 L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 9 09:54:58 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 08:54:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] subscription help In-Reply-To: <26950937.1199895974170.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20080109165458.PTS14013.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> The list has been moved to a different server program, so the old web pages and links do not work any more. Try this page instead http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs Randall From triosan at gmail.com Wed Jan 9 12:05:04 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 11:05:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 Convertible top screws and bolts Message-ID: <8cbd782d0801091105l1e917fb2j3001b1ccc53f92ed@mail.gmail.com> I removed the top 3 garges ago. Now no longer have the 6 screws that bolt the frame to the body or the 6[?] bolts that attach the frame piece to the rear deck. I would like to get the required parts locally, so I need to know the sizes of these two items. The screws are fit into the counter sunk holes on the frame. I would guess they are 1/4-28 by 1/2 or 3/4 [though they could be 5/16 24]. The bolts are probably 1/4 or 5/15 and also about 1/2 or 3/4. Would really appreciate it if anybody knows [I did not yet check in my Repair Manual]. -- Chuck Arnold From jefflee77 at earthlink.net Wed Jan 9 12:25:33 2008 From: jefflee77 at earthlink.net (Jeff) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 14:25:33 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] subscription help Message-ID: <23253826.1199906734220.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Thanks to Fred and Randall! This was small potatoes compared to what you guys are usually helping us with. I think I speak for all the lurkers out there when I say: We appreciate it! Jeff 63 TR4 CT 21244 L waiting patiently -----Original Message----- >From: FRED E THOMAS >Sent: Jan 9, 2008 11:45 AM >Majordomo at autox.team.net >Subscribe Triumphs ___________________________________________________________________________ ----Original Message------ >From: Randall The list has been moved to a different server program, so the old web pages and links do not work any more. Try this page instead http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Wed Jan 9 14:04:34 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 16:04:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 help needed now- resolution In-Reply-To: <017b01c85264$c2915210$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <017b01c85264$c2915210$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: > Some responses were 'tangential'. John H. sent me an email saying,> "install it with the drain holes up." I really didn't put much stock at all> in his answer. ... > It's very true, "THE HOLES DO GO ON TOP". But John, their not 'drain holes',> the outer tie rods go in them!> > Paul Dorsey> 60 TR3 Paul: As you can imagine, there is a story behind my response. My friend brought his center tie rod to the hangar where I worked to install the silentblocs. He had previously removed the old silentblocs and didn't remember which way they came out. I looked at the tie rod and noticed a small hole drilled into the rod center. I assumed that this hole was a drain hole and would go on the bottom. We pressed the silentblocs in such a way as to put the "drainhole" on the bottom. Of course, we put the silentblocs in upside-down. So, in this tie rod anyway, the drainhole goes up. You were quite right to not put stock in my answer. John H. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jan 9 17:01:48 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 19:01:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR chrome exhaust tip thanks Message-ID: <200801091901.48490.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Thanks for all the responses to my query. John Mitchell has a few left over and he is going to ship me 2! Thanks again to John and the list for the help. Bob From dorpaul at negia.net Wed Jan 9 18:47:44 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 20:47:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Old racing photos Message-ID: <01ab01c8532a$e2bae490$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've enjoyed the old racecars shown at the link(s) below, however, I am surprised not to have seen a Triumph in my search so far. Has anyone seen a Triumph pictured at any of Tam's Old Racecar site? Thanks, Paul An old colleague of mine who actually photographed the old Northern California sports car races for R&T sent me this link to some pictures from 1953. Just thought some of you might be interested! http://www.tamsoldracecarsite.net/GH000Homepage.html John A. Wise From ZoboHerald at aol.com Wed Jan 9 19:10:48 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 21:10:48 EST Subject: [TR] Old racing photos Message-ID: In a message dated 1/9/2008 8:48:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, dorpaul at negia.net writes: I've enjoyed the old racecars shown at the link(s) below, however, I am surprised not to have seen a Triumph in my search so far. Has anyone seen a Triumph pictured at any of Tam's Old Racecar site? ==AM== Paul, since the pictures apparently date from 1953, that era precedes the TR2, and no Triumph that came before would've been, er, "sporting" enough. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From 60TR3A at cox.net Wed Jan 9 20:51:34 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 20:51:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] remote control master off switch Message-ID: <69B7F89D-388F-4137-9BEA-2D0D3F5E7404@cox.net> I am in the process of finishing my rewire of my TR3 with Dan Masters kit. I know I have said a lot of times that I am getting close but, I have now got everything electrical working and hopefully this week end I will actually try to start it again. :-) One of the features that Dan has wired into the system a switch that disables the parts of the system needed to run the car. It is set up for a simple toggle switch but I was wondering if one could buy a low cost remote control switch that I could install in the car to open or close that circuit? Like the ones we have on all our modern cars these days. Besides with a remote control switch I could put it anywhere in the car & always use it! Any advice?? John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From mlang99 at comcast.net Wed Jan 9 22:49:00 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 21:49:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3/4??? bumper on ebay Message-ID: <4785B1CC.5000002@comcast.net> Is it a good assumption that this a 3A/B bumper due to the curved profile near the middle? The earlier TR3 bumpers were straight across the middle but I am not familiar with TR4 bumpers. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=180205159752 Thanks, Mike From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 10 07:45:25 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 09:45:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine Mounts Message-ID: <000001c85397$717fd7f0$210110ac@bobspc> I'll be replacing the engine mounts when I re-install the engine and am wondering about the differences between the TRF stock and competition mounts (http://tinyurl.com/36oqrd). Are there any other mounts out there that work really well and last longer? I'd love to find a mount that positioned the engine in such a way as to allow for fan belt changing. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.0/1216 - Release Date: 1/9/2008 10:16 AM From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Jan 10 12:12:04 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 14:12:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3/4??? bumper on ebay In-Reply-To: <4785B1CC.5000002@comcast.net> References: <4785B1CC.5000002@comcast.net> Message-ID: <200801101412.05158.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday 10 January 2008 12:49 am, Michael Lang wrote: > Is it a good assumption that this a 3A/B bumper due to the curved > profile near the middle? The earlier TR3 bumpers were straight across > the middle but I am not familiar with TR4 bumpers. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=180 >205159752 > > Thanks, > > Mike > Mike, I took a look at the images but cant tell for sure. I dont see the holes for the chrome fender bolts or the licence plate mount. I would ask the seller to indicate how many holes there are and where they are located. Bob From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 10 11:29:57 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 13:29:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Special Bolts Needed? Message-ID: <000601c853b6$cf7713e0$210110ac@bobspc> A while ago there was a discussion about the special bolts that TR6 calipers use, but how about the driveshaft and axle flange bolts? TRF lists them in their catalog as "Special Bolt # 107960". Is this another example of the collar being a unique size relative to the thread? At a $1.50 each the price adds up pretty fast. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.0/1216 - Release Date: 1/9/2008 10:16 AM From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Jan 10 11:44:29 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 13:44:29 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? In-Reply-To: <000601c853b6$cf7713e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000601c853b6$cf7713e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: On Thu, 10 Jan 2008, Bob Danielson wrote: > A while ago there was a discussion about the special bolts that TR6 calipers > use, but how about the driveshaft and axle flange bolts? TRF lists them in > their catalog as "Special Bolt # 107960". Is this another example of the > collar being a unique size relative to the thread? At a $1.50 each the price > adds up pretty fast. I don't know of another source for this bolt. It's basically a grade 5 equiv, but the grip length is odd and the threaded portion is fairly short. I suspect that an AN6 bolt could be substituted, but I've never tried it. They also use a nylon insert nut (elastic stop nut) that's a tad shorter than a full height AN6 nut - but it's taller than a half-height AN6 nut. Go figure. $24 is a lot less than the damage you'll get if the bolts fail and your axles start flailing around. > Thanks > > Bob regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jan 10 17:40:20 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 00:40:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator conversion bracket pipe Message-ID: <011120080040.12204.4786BAF4000B94D300002FAC22155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> When the snow clears a bit this spring, I'd like to beef up the alternator conversion by welding in the pipe between the ears of the bracket. This measures to be 3/8ths ID, 1/2 OD and about 4 inches long. How does one source that? Haven't found it at Lowes or HD, and I'd hate to buy a 24 inch section, but will if I have to. Also, I'd like to use the 2" x 2" steel box to enclose the flange on the alternator to complete the set up. Any source ideas there? Remember Claire's "Where's the beef?" I don't want another problem with a breaking bracket on the alternator. One thing I CAN promise, the weld on this bracket will be the ugliest piece of art you've ever seen! Appreciation in advance.... Terry Smith ('59 TR3A pretty much stock) New Hampshire (where the pollsters have finally stopped calling, and where my toes are healing from tripping over hopefuls) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 10 18:53:00 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 17:53:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator conversion bracket pipe In-Reply-To: <011120080040.12204.4786BAF4000B94D300002FAC22155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <011120080040.12204.4786BAF4000B94D300002FAC22155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <013d01c853f4$b214c390$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > When the snow clears a bit this spring, I'd like to beef up > the alternator conversion by welding in the pipe between the > ears of the bracket. I guess I'm missing something Terry. How is welding that pipe in place going to beef up the mount ? Don't you already have a long bolt running all the way through, that clamps the ears firmly to the pipe ? And is there some reason not to use ordinary 1/2" pipe (if your HD no longer carries 3/8") ? When I need something like that, I usually just drop in at the local metal supply; my favorite is M-K Metals. Sometimes they will have cutoffs they'll sell me cheap, but even a 20' stick of 1/2" seamless steel tubing wasn't very much. Of course that was some years ago, it may have gotten more expensive. Or poke around on eBay, there's all sorts of cutoffs and whatnot for sale there. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190178828373 Randall From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Jan 10 19:19:30 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 21:19:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3's grille turned into Mouth? Message-ID: <01f701c853f8$675be690$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Has anyone ever seen a TR2 or Tr3's grille turned into a MOUTH by replacing the grille with some sort of TEETH? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Jan 10 19:34:21 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 18:34:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator conversion bracket pipe In-Reply-To: <011120080040.12204.4786BAF4000B94D300002FAC22155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <011120080040.12204.4786BAF4000B94D300002FAC22155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4786D5AD.30407@comcast.net> Terry, I am not sure where you are located, but most major towns will have a least one scrap dealer that sells surplus and recycled steel. There was one within a couple of miles from where I grew up in Salem Oregon that I frequented a lot when I was a teenager. I have recently located one within a few miles from where I live in Oregon City Oregon. You have to go pick through totes full of pieces to find what you need, but there is a huge selection. Both places charged by the pound and prices are typically only a little above scrap prices. If you are in to fabricating your own tools and equipment, they a fun place to go and poke around. I would start by looking in the phone book. Let us know what you find. Mike terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > When the snow clears a bit this spring, I'd like to beef up the alternator conversion by welding in the pipe between the ears of the bracket. This measures to be 3/8ths ID, 1/2 OD and about 4 inches long. > How does one source that? Haven't found it at Lowes or HD, and I'd hate to buy a 24 inch section, but will if I have to. > Also, I'd like to use the 2" x 2" steel box to enclose the flange on the alternator to complete the set up. Any source ideas there? > Remember Claire's "Where's the beef?" I don't want another problem with a breaking bracket on the alternator. > One thing I CAN promise, the weld on this bracket will be the ugliest piece of art you've ever seen! > Appreciation in advance.... > Terry Smith ('59 TR3A pretty much stock) > New Hampshire (where the pollsters have finally stopped calling, and where my toes are healing from tripping over hopefuls) From triumph66 at gmail.com Thu Jan 10 19:52:35 2008 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 21:52:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] BBC Video/Audio: Sir John Harvey-Jones dies - later helped Malvern's Morgan Cars Message-ID: A great British business leader, Sir John Harvey Jones, passed away today, someone that I have followed for many years and always admired. Harvey Jones, a former Naval commander, left a Naval career to return to Britain for family reasons. He went on to rise quickly and become CEO and later Chairman of ICI during its turbulent years in the mid-1980s. After retiring from ICI, Harvey-Jones got involved in helping business and promoting business in the UK in a series of programs and books entitled "Troubleshooter" and "Making it Happen." One of the companies he helped bring some incremental positive change to was Morgan cars, if interested, see BBC video link below. ** Sir John Harvey-Jones dies ** Businessman Sir John Harvey-Jones has died after a long illness at the age of 83. Harvey-Jones was a great leader, a man of character, intellect and many talents. http://tinyurl.com/2zrbds Ted State College, PA -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO http://www.triumphowners.com/967 From ZoboHerald at aol.com Thu Jan 10 20:34:21 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 22:34:21 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator conversion bracket pipe Message-ID: In a message dated 1/10/2008 7:40:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: When the snow clears a bit this spring, I'd like to beef up the alternator conversion by welding in the pipe between the ears of the bracket. This measures to be 3/8ths ID, 1/2 OD and about 4 inches long. How does one source that? Haven't found it at Lowes or HD, and I'd hate to buy a 24 inch section, but will if I have to. ==AM== Terry, does it have to be welded in, or can it be just a spacer that is the correct length (thickness)? I'm thinking you might go through the boxes at a really good hardware store and see if there might be a bushing of some sort that would "measure up"? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Jan 10 21:20:20 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 20:20:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] Diaphragm material Message-ID: <4786EE84.1070505@comcast.net> I am toying with the idea of replacing the diaphragm in my vacuum advance rather than coughing up the money for a complete new one. Why? Pick one: 1) I am cheap 2) I have too much time on my hands 3) Just to be able to say that I did it. All three are probably true to some extent. Anyway, does anyone have a good suggestion for a source of material that would work well as a diaphragm. It would need to be some sort of rubberized fabric that is fuel and oil proof. Feel free to tell me that I am nuts. :-) Thanks, Mike From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Jan 11 00:50:06 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 23:50:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] Euro 500 Rally Message-ID: Hello Bill I hope you had a great holiday. I was emailing you to see if you could possibly help spread the word about Euro 500 Rally to some of your car group and friends. We have half of the spaces filled so far and would like to try to get more of the British car group in the event. If you have any questions please let me know. Adam "Adam Cook" For more information and application go to this website http://www.euro500rally.com -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Jan 11 00:50:06 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 23:50:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] Euro 500 Rally Message-ID: Hello Bill I hope you had a great holiday. I was emailing you to see if you could possibly help spread the word about Euro 500 Rally to some of your car group and friends. We have half of the spaces filled so far and would like to try to get more of the British car group in the event. If you have any questions please let me know. Adam "Adam Cook" For more information and application go to this website http://www.euro500rally.com -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Jan 11 06:03:25 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 08:03:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3's grille turned into Mouth? References: <01f701c853f8$675be690$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <004b01c85452$5a54fdb0$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5> You could carry that theme to the spare tire lid! That would be a neat addition Paul. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 9:19 PM Subject: [TR] TR3's grille turned into Mouth? > Has anyone ever seen a TR2 or Tr3's grille turned into a MOUTH > by replacing the grille with some sort of TEETH? > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jan 11 07:50:48 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 09:50:48 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hub bolts In-Reply-To: <478039.62008.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <478039.62008.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Thu, 10 Jan 2008 johnehorton at yahoo.com wrote: > I am in need of 24 hub bolts. Preferably new or old stock. I have > tried the standard suppliers and come up with almost $5.00 EACH. Any > suggestions. What part are we talking about here? Front hub? Rear hub? Hub of the Universe? > John 76 TR6 regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From pboldtrix at juno.com Fri Jan 11 08:53:10 2008 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 15:53:10 GMT Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers Message-ID: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Listers: This is off topic, but I hope some listers will respond. Am thinking of purchasing a gas powered pressure washer for home use. Any suggestions? The electric ones are useless for patio/driveway cleaning etc. What's the preference, direct or belt drive? Anything to look out for? Desireable features? There seem to be a jillion brands, set-ups out there...very confusing. Mandatory LBC content....I've heard these are great for cleaning wire wheels.....Thanks Phil Bacon, 72 TR-6 _____________________________________________________________ Need cash? Apply now for a credit loan with fast approval. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iifTOUP8sOT5RlUVLTc3d5B9VqCv iAaCkMCKEXklmMvyuzlZP/ From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Jan 11 09:13:58 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 11:13:58 EST Subject: [TR] TR3's grille turned into Mouth? Message-ID: In a message dated 1/10/2008 7:23:32 PM Mountain Standard Time, dorpaul at negia.net writes: Has anyone ever seen a TR2 or Tr3's grille turned into a MOUTH by replacing the grille with some sort of TEETH? Sounds cool, but you'd also need a tounge. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From 60TR3A at cox.net Fri Jan 11 09:14:23 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 09:14:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers In-Reply-To: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> References: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: On 11 Jan, 2008, at 8:53 AM, Phil Bacon wrote: > Listers: > This is off topic, but I hope some listers will respond. Am > thinking of > purchasing a gas powered pressure washer for home use. Any > suggestions? The > electric ones are useless for patio/driveway cleaning etc. What's the > preference, direct or belt drive? Anything to look out for? > Desireable > features? There seem to be a jillion brands, set-ups out there...very > confusing. > Mandatory LBC content....I've heard these are great for cleaning wire > wheels.....Thanks I do use mine to clean my wirewheels & it works well. I bought a Generac 2300 psi direct drive 5 years ago at the local Lowes in FL to blast the green & black off the driveways & sidewalks. It works well but the gas tank has split at the seam & I need to get a new one. Now I use it to blast my wire wheels & clean the bottom of my canoe! Not any need to clean sidewalks of mold in AZ. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From spitlist at cox.net Fri Jan 11 09:26:53 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 09:26:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers References: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <003c01c8546e$c6d76600$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Phil, Be sure to check the requirements of the unit when shopping for a pressure washers. Many of them require a minimum of 5 gallons per minute input in order to work. If you (like me) live in an area that hass poor water pressure, it might not work. What happens is it will deliver pressure immediately when the wand handle is depressed but will quickly dissipate and start cycling. releasing the handle will allow the pressure to build back up but you can never achieve a constant pressure. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Bacon" To: Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 8:53 AM Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers > Listers: > This is off topic, but I hope some listers will respond. Am thinking of > purchasing a gas powered pressure washer for home use. Any suggestions? The > electric ones are useless for patio/driveway cleaning etc. What's the > preference, direct or belt drive? Anything to look out for? Desireable > features? There seem to be a jillion brands, set-ups out there...very > confusing. > Mandatory LBC content....I've heard these are great for cleaning wire > wheels.....Thanks > Phil Bacon, 72 TR-6 > > > > _____________________________________________________________ > Need cash? Apply now for a credit loan with fast approval. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iifTOUP8sOT5RlUVLTc3d5B9VqCv > iAaCkMCKEXklmMvyuzlZP/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 11 09:41:36 2008 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 11:41:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3's grille turned into Mouth? References: <01f701c853f8$675be690$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <004b01c85452$5a54fdb0$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: > You could carry that theme to the spare tire lid! That would be a neat > addition Paul. When the Moon Comes Over the Mountain? Naaah - Kate Smith never had a TR. From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Jan 11 10:01:02 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 11:01:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3's grille turned into Mouth? References: <01f701c853f8$675be690$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <004b01c85452$5a54fdb0$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <002001c85473$8f45fd00$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Yeah, you could find a bunch of old spare wheel covers, paint them to resemble the appropriate part of the anatomy, and offer them for sale. But, then the purists would complain that you would have wrecked 'em. Mike Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's grille turned into Mouth? > You could carry that theme to the spare tire lid! That would be a neat > addition Paul. > > > >> Has anyone ever seen a TR2 or Tr3's grille turned into a MOUTH >> by replacing the grille with some sort of TEETH? From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 11 10:13:05 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 17:13:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator conversion bracket pipe In-Reply-To: <011120080040.12204.4786BAF4000B94D300002FAC22155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <011120080040.12204.4786BAF4000B94D300002FAC22155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: It seems that you want to weld to the engine block which is cast iron. Welding to cast iron is ineffective and takes a real specialist. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008 From 60TR3A at cox.net Fri Jan 11 10:14:39 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 10:14:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] remote control master off switch amperage? In-Reply-To: <69B7F89D-388F-4137-9BEA-2D0D3F5E7404@cox.net> References: <69B7F89D-388F-4137-9BEA-2D0D3F5E7404@cox.net> Message-ID: <372BDE9D-07F4-4BC3-B7B9-9FBD84F557BE@cox.net> Google has found several remote controls that work with automotive and marine applications. They are rated by amps. How many amps would I need if the wire is the ground to a relay that allows other relays to send current? I would guess not many, but then I am a psychologist! Advice please! Thanks John On 9 Jan, 2008, at 8:51 PM, 60TR3A wrote: > One of the features that Dan has wired into the system a switch that > disables the parts of the system needed to run the car. It is set up > for a simple toggle switch but I was wondering if one could buy a low > cost remote control switch that I could install in the car to open or > close that circuit? Like the ones we have on all our modern cars > these days. John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 11 10:37:39 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 17:37:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers In-Reply-To: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> References: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: I have seen a small electric pressure washer do very good cleaning on fences and driveways. I just purchased a larger one at Home Depot with 1800 PSI for $130.00. I haven't used it yet but I am looking forward to cleaning the garage floor and drive way before I begin my winter improvements to the TR3A. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008 From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Fri Jan 11 10:44:29 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 12:44:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3's grille turned into Mouth? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Has anyone ever seen a TR2 or Tr3's grille turned into a MOUTH by replacing the grille with some sort of TEETH? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 Paul - have you been watching the animation movie "Cars" over the holiday? Brian Jones From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Jan 11 11:04:39 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 13:04:39 EST Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers Message-ID: In a message dated 1/11/2008 9:26:09 AM Mountain Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: If you (like me) live in an area that hass poor water pressure, it might not work. What happens is it will deliver pressure immediately when the wand handle is depressed but will quickly dissipate and start cycling. releasing the handle will allow the pressure to build back up but you can never achieve a constant pressure. Joe, You might try filling a holding tank first and running that to the washer...an old 55 gallon drum, or one of the plastic tanks. If you've ever visited Mexico, you've probably seen the black, 250-500 gallon tanks on everyone's roof. This is becasue the water pressure is miserable and they need to store up to supply the household needs. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From sportsix63 at yahoo.com Fri Jan 11 11:07:29 2008 From: sportsix63 at yahoo.com (jim williams) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 10:07:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers In-Reply-To: <003c01c8546e$c6d76600$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <731593.24841.qm@web32510.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I purchased a Troy Built from Lowes. It lost a gasket in the pump. Oil leaked out. There went the pump. Might have been just that one but it happened. --- Joe Curry wrote: > Phil, > Be sure to check the requirements of the unit when > shopping for a pressure > washers. Many of them require a minimum of 5 > gallons per minute input in > order to work. If you (like me) live in an area > that hass poor water > pressure, it might not work. > > What happens is it will deliver pressure immediately > when the wand handle is > depressed but will quickly dissipate and start > cycling. releasing the > handle will allow the pressure to build back up but > you can never achieve a > constant pressure. > > Joe C. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Phil Bacon" > To: > Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 8:53 AM > Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers > > > > Listers: > > This is off topic, but I hope some listers will > respond. Am thinking > of > > purchasing a gas powered pressure washer for home > use. Any suggestions? > The > > electric ones are useless for patio/driveway > cleaning etc. What's the > > preference, direct or belt drive? Anything to > look out for? Desireable > > features? There seem to be a jillion brands, > set-ups out there...very > > confusing. > > Mandatory LBC content....I've heard these are > great for cleaning wire > > wheels.....Thanks > > Phil Bacon, 72 TR-6 > > > > > > > > > _____________________________________________________________ > > Need cash? Apply now for a credit loan with fast > approval. > > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iifTOUP8sOT5RlUVLTc3d5B9VqCv > > iAaCkMCKEXklmMvyuzlZP/ > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph > Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph > Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as sportsix63 at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > Jim Williams Lewisburg, West Virginia ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From kentech0822 at verizon.net Fri Jan 11 11:12:29 2008 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 13:12:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator conversion bracket pipe In-Reply-To: <011120080040.12204.4786BAF4000B94D300002FAC22155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <011120080040.12204.4786BAF4000B94D300002FAC22155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001601c8547d$878d03b0$7c01a8c0@KENTECHHP> Terry, I had the same problem as you with my TR3A alternator. I broke one adjustment bracket once and also broke off the bolt that secured it another time. My solution was a solid lower attachment, same as you are putting together. All you need is a simple piece of pipe between the ears, doesn't need to be welded, just the right size so you can clamp down the lower mounting tightly. I would think that even an old length of copper plumbing pipe would do. Mine is aluminum but anything will do fine. The trick is to have a very solid lower mount so the alternator doesn't vibrate; mine seemed to develop a vibration at a certain engine rpm before I added the pipe. PeterK -----Original Message----- From: terryrs at comcast.net [mailto:terryrs at comcast.net] Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 7:40 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator conversion bracket pipe When the snow clears a bit this spring, I'd like to beef up the alternator conversion by welding in the pipe between the ears of the bracket. This measures to be 3/8ths ID, 1/2 OD and about 4 inches long. How does one source that? Haven't found it at Lowes or HD, and I'd hate to buy a 24 inch section, but will if I have to. Also, I'd like to use the 2" x 2" steel box to enclose the flange on the alternator to complete the set up. Any source ideas there? Remember Claire's "Where's the beef?" I don't want another problem with a breaking bracket on the alternator. One thing I CAN promise, the weld on this bracket will be the ugliest piece of art you've ever seen! Appreciation in advance.... Terry Smith ('59 TR3A pretty much stock) New Hampshire (where the pollsters have finally stopped calling, and where my toes are healing from tripping over hopefuls) From kentech0822 at verizon.net Fri Jan 11 11:15:05 2008 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 13:15:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3's grille turned into Mouth? In-Reply-To: <01f701c853f8$675be690$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <01f701c853f8$675be690$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <001701c8547d$e4b87c40$7c01a8c0@KENTECHHP> I've seen this on a bugeye and was definitely eye-cathing. Even had a tongue hanging out. Then you'll also need a Bozo suit to wear while you drive. PeterK -----Original Message----- From: Paul Dorsey [mailto:dorpaul at negia.net] Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 9:20 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] TR3's grille turned into Mouth? Has anyone ever seen a TR2 or Tr3's grille turned into a MOUTH by replacing the grille with some sort of TEETH? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From steven at newellboys.com Fri Jan 11 11:37:28 2008 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 11:37:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers In-Reply-To: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> References: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <4787B768.1060804@newellboys.com> Phil Bacon wrote: >Listers: > This is off topic, but I hope some listers will respond. Am thinking of >purchasing a gas powered pressure washer for home use. Any suggestions? The >electric ones are useless for patio/driveway cleaning etc. What's the >preference, direct or belt drive? Anything to look out for? Desireable >features? There seem to be a jillion brands, set-ups out there...very >confusing. > My neighbor says the high-powered pressure washers are great for taking off siding and roof shingles. If you're not careful. I haven't tried his on the car, as I'm concerned it would remove the protective oil coating under my car. Waxoyl, hold the wax. DirtOyl? Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 etc. From spitlist at cox.net Fri Jan 11 11:44:16 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 11:44:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers References: Message-ID: <007201c85481$f8614de0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Since I am only 50 miles from the Mexican Border, perhaps it is contageous! Our water tank sits on a berm built by the Asarco mining company and it is probably only 50 feet or so above our house. That accounts for the poor water pressure. In my case, the Karcher electric unit works fine but the one a friend brought over to fix for him doesn't. It is a gas one and after I tuned up his engine so that it will start and run well, I encountered the problem I described. I went on-line and downloaded an owner's manual and troubleshooting guide. That is when I discovered that it requires much more pressure at the input than whar our area provides. The guy had previously taken the unit to a professional repair place in Tucson and they said there was nothing wrong with it. When he got it home and tried it, he experienced the same thing. My conclusion is that the only way he would get it to work is move! :) Joe ----- Original Message ----- > Joe, > > You might try filling a holding tank first and running that to the > washer...an old 55 gallon drum, or one of the plastic tanks. If you've ever visited > Mexico, you've probably seen the black, 250-500 gallon tanks on everyone's > roof. This is becasue the water pressure is miserable and they need to store up > to supply the household needs. > > > > Robert B. Houston > Texan in New Mexico From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Fri Jan 11 12:43:34 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 14:43:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers References: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <000001c8548a$a2792ed0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> So you don't think the electric ones have any power eh? Rent/borrow one first. It's remarkable the amount of damage you can do with one, even a mere 2,000 psi electric one. Like another said, rip the siding or shingles off the house. As well blast under the siding knocking holes in the drywall inside, shattering windows, stripping insulation off wires, cutting door gaskets, breaking furniture, slicing radiator hoses, stripping vinyl off its fabric backing, destroying electronics, etc. All done with a mere-smear electric pressure washer. Can't imagine the destruction I could wreak with an even more powerful one. Well, actually I can. There was that huge commercial steam jenny we had, it could cut cinderblocks.... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Bacon" Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers > Listers: > This is off topic, but I hope some listers will respond. Am thinking of > purchasing a gas powered pressure washer for home use. Any suggestions? From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Jan 11 12:48:48 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 14:48:48 EST Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers Message-ID: In a message dated 1/11/2008 11:37:43 AM Mountain Standard Time, steven at newellboys.com writes: My neighbor says the high-powered pressure washers are great for taking off siding and roof shingles. If you're not careful. I haven't tried his on the car, as I'm concerned it would remove the protective oil coating under my car. Waxoyl, hold the wax. DirtOyl? Steven Newell Actually I read somewhere that one of the big tire companies reccommended that these not be used on tires. Something about the pulsing cycle separating the plies on the side walls. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From bill_beecher at flash.net Fri Jan 11 14:30:38 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill beecher) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 14:30:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block Message-ID: <20080111213003.709A61879E4@autox.team.net> Hit a snag at the machine shop today, they are afraid to clean the block for fear of removing the orange "TR3" that was hand painted on the block at the factory. Their normal process calls for baking the block then putting it into a tumbler where it is blasted with steel shot. I understand from he VTR Judging guide the value to retaining this orange notation on the original engine for my car, mine is about 75% completely visible, but not sure what the safest way to thoroughly clean the block, inside and out, to prepare it for a complete rebuild. So far, the strongest thing I have used is Gunk and a pressure washer at the local car wash. Or, am I being too anal and no-one really cares? Thanks, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L It's in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day! No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1219 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 10:19 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 11 14:39:03 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 13:39:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers In-Reply-To: <007201c85481$f8614de0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <007201c85481$f8614de0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <01c501c8549a$62c91060$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > That is when I discovered that it > requires much more > pressure at the input than whar our area provides. Interesting. I'm pretty sure the one I have will actually lift water a short distance; as it will collapse the garden hose if it doesn't get enough flow. However ISTR the manual says it needs 20 psi at the inlet. The screen at the inlet was also a problem, until I replaced it with a much larger filter assembly. I only get a moderate amount of crud in the water (scale flaking off 40 year old pipes, probably) but the least little piece would cause problems with the original screen (one of those hose washer things). I think it's an Ex-Cell, but I don't see it on their web site. Vertical shaft Honda motor, rated something like 2.5 gpm @ 2500 psi. Does take a little caution when using, but mostly that means starting with the nozzle set to the "wide fan" position and only narrowing it as necessary. How much force the surface sees also depends greatly on how far away you are ... needle spray at 6" will definitely damage wood but the wide fan at 6' won't even hurt your skin. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 11 14:58:51 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 13:58:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] remote control master off switch amperage? In-Reply-To: <372BDE9D-07F4-4BC3-B7B9-9FBD84F557BE@cox.net> References: <69B7F89D-388F-4137-9BEA-2D0D3F5E7404@cox.net> <372BDE9D-07F4-4BC3-B7B9-9FBD84F557BE@cox.net> Message-ID: <01d101c8549d$26ff3fc0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > How many amps would I > need if the wire is the ground to a relay that allows other > relays to > send current? Depends on the relay (obviously), but a common automotive relay should draw under 0.1 amp. But make sure the module output is a constant "on" when you want the relay on. Some outputs are only momentary. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jan 11 15:10:25 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 17:10:25 EST Subject: [TR] Carefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block Message-ID: In a message dated 1/11/2008 3:30:14 PM Central Standard Time, bill_beecher at flash.net writes: > Hit a snag at the machine shop today, they are afraid to clean the block > for > fear of removing the orange "TR3" that was hand painted on the block at the > factory. Their normal process calls for baking the block then putting it > into a tumbler where it is blasted with steel shot. > > I understand from he VTR Judging guide the value to retaining this orange > notation on the original engine for my car, mine is about 75% completely > visible, but not sure what the safest way to thoroughly clean the block, > inside and out, to prepare it for a complete rebuild. So far, the strongest > thing I have used is Gunk and a pressure washer at the local car wash. Or, > am I being too anal and no-one really cares? > You will not receive any deduct points for not having TR3 hand painted on the block. The factory only did this on replacement engines, I think. But in any event, most TR3's don't have this and live happy, productive lives. I can't say what TRA's position is on this. Dave Massey From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Jan 11 15:23:40 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 17:23:40 EST Subject: [TR] Carefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block Message-ID: In a message dated 1/11/2008 4:30:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, bill_beecher at flash.net writes: "TR3" that was hand painted on the block Hey Bill, That's great that you would try to preserve history and keep that original TR3 on your block, "Hand Painted in England". I don't believe I have ever seen an original. Just so you know it would be all right to have your block cleaned and re-paint that TR3. That's what the most guys do if they do it at all. Yes, judges at VTR and TRA will be looking for it, but as long as it is there you will all right because most of us really have never seen an original. Cheers, Darrell VTR Chief Judge **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From pboldtrix at juno.com Fri Jan 11 15:28:50 2008 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 22:28:50 GMT Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers Message-ID: <20080111.172850.3993.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> Didn't say the electric washers have no power...the problem with them is that the power is only in a small area, and it takes a tremendous amount of time to do a big job like a patio, driveway, etc. Phil BAcon -- "Nolan" wrote: So you don't think the electric ones have any power eh? Rent/borrow one first. It's remarkable the amount of damage you can do with one, even a mere 2,000 psi electric one. Like another said, rip the siding or shingles off the house. As well blast under the siding knocking holes in the drywall inside, shattering windows, stripping insulation off wires, cutting door gaskets, breaking furniture, slicing radiator hoses, stripping vinyl off its fabric backing, destroying electronics, etc. All done with a mere-smear electric pressure washer. Can't imagine the destruction I could wreak with an even more powerful one. Well, actually I can. There was that huge commercial steam jenny we had, it could cut cinderblocks.... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Bacon" Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers > Listers: > This is off topic, but I hope some listers will respond. Am thinking of > purchasing a gas powered pressure washer for home use. Any suggestions? This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pboldtrix at juno.com http://www.team.net/archive _____________________________________________________________ Ultimate Travel Deals - Click Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iifH22ihwloPkf2RojVsJCHN4pRz fT3Ep4437mKBYUo1MSUq0/ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Jan 11 15:43:39 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 22:43:39 -0000 Subject: [TR] Carefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block References: Message-ID: <001a01c854a3$69990ea0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Bill If you know a good forger, I'd take a photograph of the original - with measurements, and then get a lump of chinagraph pencil or chalk and get the 'forger' to replicate. Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 10:23 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Carefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block > In a message dated 1/11/2008 4:30:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > bill_beecher at flash.net writes: > > "TR3" that was hand painted on the block > > > Hey Bill, > That's great that you would try to preserve history and keep that original > TR3 on your block, "Hand Painted in England". I don't believe I have ever > seen an original. Just so you know it would be all right to have your block > cleaned and re-paint that TR3. That's what the most guys do if they do it at > all. Yes, judges at VTR and TRA will be looking for it, but as long as it is > there you will all right because most of us really have never seen an original. > Cheers, > Darrell > VTR Chief Judge > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 11 16:04:48 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 15:04:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers In-Reply-To: <20080111.172850.3993.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> References: <20080111.172850.3993.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <01d701c854a6$5d60d2f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Didn't say the electric washers have no power...the problem > with them is that > the power is only in a small area, FWIW, they sell a nozzle that throws a spinning needle spray. Keeps the same power but covers a larger area. http://tinyurl.com/2z6u38 Randall From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Jan 11 16:47:21 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 18:47:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering gear bolt stubbornness Message-ID: <021b01c854ac$50d62a20$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Even though I have never driven my TR3, I need to again remove a vertical link (because I had forgotten to install the backing plate/dust plate for one front wheel.) One of the four caliper bracket/vertical link bolts, the one that holds on the dust plate, had been too short, and that's my excuse for forgetting the dust plate. However, on attempting to reinstall a longer bolt, I met with considerable tightening resistance. Greater even than it's 25 ft.lb. torque specification. I think this bolt was a 3/8" fine thread. Should I just continue tightening it? On the other front wheel, this bolt goes clear through this caliper bracket/vertical link. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jan 11 17:35:22 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 19:35:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers In-Reply-To: <731593.24841.qm@web32510.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <003c01c8546e$c6d76600$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <4787C4FA.20313.230A227@localhost> On 11 Jan 2008 at 10:07, jim williams wrote: > It lost a gasket in the pump. Oil leaked out. Apparently a washer couldn't handle the pressure. (I bought some batteries but they weren't included.) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Jan 11 17:55:41 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 00:55:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator conversion bracket pipe Message-ID: <011220080055.1227.4788100D0006C3CC000004CB22155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Dang it, Randall! Work with me! I figgered if I made it seem complicated I'd begin to earn my engineer credentials! Rats. I am only left to assume that logic has something to do with that engineering business. Sadly disappointed and really must protest.... ...But alack, I guess I must confess that what I was trying to do was to eradicate any opportunity for the alternator's bracket to wiggle. What you say makes sense: welding might be overkill (or underkill, the way I weld). But...would the ID of ordinary half inch pipe have a snug fit for the long bolt to eliminate any potential for wobble? Is a snug fit actually necessary at all? Thank you everyone who responded. I hate to confess, but central/northern New Hampshire is...uhm...unsophisticated in terms of hardware stores. (I had two television stations until the advent of satellite, and one of them didn't come in.) Mostly just Home Depot and Lowes. (But we do have really great state liquor stores!) I'll try to find a metal shop or give E-Bay a once-over. Oh, just in case I'd convinced you I really WAS becoming an engineer, let me dispose of that little delusion with this: several people responded mentioning a "pipe nipple." What the heck IS that? How does it differ from a pipe? Thanks again, Terry ('59 TR3A TS 58667) > > When the snow clears a bit this spring, I'd like to beef up > > the alternator conversion by welding in the pipe between the > > ears of the bracket. > > I guess I'm missing something Terry. How is welding that pipe in place > going to beef up the mount ? Don't you already have a long bolt running all > the way through, that clamps the ears firmly to the pipe ? > > And is there some reason not to use ordinary 1/2" pipe (if your HD no longer > carries 3/8") ? > > When I need something like that, I usually just drop in at the local metal > supply; my favorite is M-K Metals. Sometimes they will have cutoffs they'll > sell me cheap, but even a 20' stick of 1/2" seamless steel tubing wasn't > very much. Of course that was some years ago, it may have gotten more > expensive. > > Or poke around on eBay, there's all sorts of cutoffs and whatnot for sale > there. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190178828373 > > Randall From ZoboHerald at aol.com Fri Jan 11 18:52:08 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 20:52:08 EST Subject: [TR] Carefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block Message-ID: In a message dated 1/11/2008 5:44:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: If you know a good forger, I'd take a photograph of the original - with measurements, and then get a lump of chinagraph pencil or chalk and get the 'forger' to replicate. ==AM== But wouldn't that be obvious? I mean, many folks don't sign their name exactly the same all the time, and I can't imagine that penmanship was foremost in the minds of the poor line worker at Banner Lane or wherever whilst scribbling notations on engine blocks. In other words, any old scrawl or scribble might do just fine? ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 11 19:36:05 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 21:36:05 EST Subject: [TR] Diaphragm material Message-ID: Lets see . . .diaphragm. . .diaphragm. . .Hmmm. How about calling an OB/GYN? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From darrellw at ipns.com Fri Jan 11 19:58:45 2008 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 18:58:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] Carefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Jan 11, 2008, at 5:52 PM, ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote: > and I can't imagine that penmanship was foremost in > the minds of the poor line worker at Banner Lane or wherever whilst > scribbling notations on engine blocks. I'm sure they put the same attention into the markings as they did in lining up the stampings for the commission plates :-) -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Jan 11 20:58:52 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 22:58:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 MOUTH PICTURES Message-ID: <024201c854cf$73774960$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've decided that my TR3A is going to have teeth!! I wonder if anyone has a picture of how this might look? If you can bare to send me a copy, I'd love to see it. I live in Georgia and doubt I'll ever see your car... no two cars with teeth will ever look alike, anyway!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jan 11 22:11:52 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 22:11:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 MOUTH PICTURES In-Reply-To: <024201c854cf$73774960$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080112051154.3BD791879FB@autox.team.net> I hear the ghost of Ed "Big Daddy" Roth calling..... -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 8:59 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] TR3 MOUTH PICTURES I've decided that my TR3A is going to have teeth!! I wonder if anyone has a picture of how this might look? If you can bare to send me a copy, I'd love to see it. I live in Georgia and doubt I'll ever see your car... no two cars with teeth will ever look alike, anyway!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1219 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 10:19 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1219 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 10:19 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 11 22:56:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 21:56:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering gear bolt stubbornness In-Reply-To: <021b01c854ac$50d62a20$dc94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080112055607.MKLG4230.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > However, on attempting to reinstall a longer bolt, I met > with considerable tightening resistance. Greater even than > it's 25 ft.lb. torque specification. > I think this bolt was a 3/8" fine thread. Should I just > continue tightening it? NO, definitely not ! Take it back apart, find and fix the problem. If memory serves, those bolts are specials; maybe you've got the wrong bolt and it's bottoming in the threads. But whatever the problem, you should fix it rather than just leaning on it harder. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 11 23:25:20 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 22:25:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator conversion bracket pipe In-Reply-To: <011220080055.1227.4788100D0006C3CC000004CB22155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080112062520.NCAP4230.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Dang it, Randall! Work with me! I figgered if I made it seem complicated > I'd begin to earn my engineer credentials! Rats. I am only left to assume > that logic has something to do with that engineering business. Well, I wouldn't exactly say that ! > But...would the ID of ordinary half inch pipe have a snug fit for the long bolt > to eliminate any potential for wobble? The bolt will clamp the ears of the generator bracket down on the ends of the pipe ... as long as the bolt is tight, nothing is going to wobble. > Is a snug fit actually necessary at all? It would be better, IMO, to find some 3/8" if you can. That still won't give you 'snug' fit, but it will be closer. But I think the 1/2" will be adequate. >I hate to confess, but central/northern New Hampshire is...uhm...unsophisticated Not sure just where you are, but Central Metals in Rumney looks like a winner. Or Lakes Region Scrap Metals in Franklin. > (But we do have really great state liquor stores!) That might explain some recent events ! (Sorry, couldn't resist.) > several people responded mentioning a "pipe nipple." What the heck IS that? > How does it differ from a pipe? A pipe nipple is a short length of pipe, already threaded on both ends. Generally found next to the other pipe fittings. HTH Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Fri Jan 11 23:48:21 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 22:48:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] Diaphragm material In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <478862B5.8010406@comcast.net> So are you telling my that since my vacuum advance diaphragm had a leak, that my distributor might be pregnant? (Sorry, I could pass up the opportunity. :-) ) Mike DLylis at aol.com wrote: > Lets see . . .diaphragm. . .diaphragm. . .Hmmm. How about calling an OB/GYN? > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From CarlSereda at aol.com Sat Jan 12 01:49:59 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 03:49:59 EST Subject: [TR] reCarefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block Message-ID: There is 'TR4' hand written in orange paint on the original block of my '63 TR4. I had it 'hot-tanked' back in 1974 when engine bath solutions were still strong and yet the handwriting is still 60% intact. So far I've only used keroscene this time around.. and a narrow wood chisel inside the crusty water jacket. I will thoroughly clean all oilways and repaint the block around the original ID marks in there is no iron showing. I will only need to bring the block to a machine shop for installing cam bearings if I can't locate a proper bearing tool for the new Vandervells. Regards, Carl ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Sat Jan 12 03:29:34 2008 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 10:29:34 -0000 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers References: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <001f01c85506$0c53c380$2d3b1452@Platinum> Hi, My biggest disaster was the purchase of quite expensive gasoline powered power washer. It was the most tempermental, ear deafening thing I have ever used! It was a pig to start, once running it blew off the water delivery hose every time I released the wash trigger, lastly it wandered all over the place like something possessed!. It was quite useless.Back to the store with that one. I have used electric pressure washers with a great deal of success. I went for a recognised brand name. My advice would be to stay electric and go for the middle price range or the highest you can budget for, it definitely will pay off in the end. I found that the cheaper ones do not last long before developing faults. Most cheaper one also do not have dispensers for degreasing/patio cleaner fluid and usually have a less pressure delivery. We have a brand here in UK called Karcher, very reliable, they are probably world wide. Very satisfied with mine. Adrian 1966 TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Bacon" To: Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 3:53 PM Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers > Listers: > This is off topic, but I hope some listers will respond. Am thinking of > purchasing a gas powered pressure washer for home use. Any suggestions? > The > electric ones are useless for patio/driveway cleaning etc. What's the > preference, direct or belt drive? Anything to look out for? Desireable > features? There seem to be a jillion brands, set-ups out there...very > confusing. > Mandatory LBC content....I've heard these are great for cleaning wire > wheels.....Thanks > Phil Bacon, 72 TR-6 > > > > _____________________________________________________________ > Need cash? Apply now for a credit loan with fast approval. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iifTOUP8sOT5RlUVLTc3d5B9VqCv > iAaCkMCKEXklmMvyuzlZP/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dixie4.wales at virgin.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1220 - Release Date: > 11/01/2008 18:09 From N197TR4 at cs.com Sat Jan 12 08:15:18 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 10:15:18 EST Subject: [TR] Press Release- Triumphs at Watkins Glen September 2008 Message-ID: List...this is for all of you... Please read the press release below carefully. Go to ClassicMotorsports.net/kastner-cup for a better version. This is going to be a huge celebration of the Triumph Marque, both at the track, and in the Village. Put the press release in your newsletters........ Get your Classic Motorsports magazine for further coverage during the year. Joe A FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------- For release: Immediately Classic Motorsports magazine presents the Kastner Cup Vintage Race It's like a planetary alignment for Triumph fans, only way cooler, since you can actually see it: Hundreds of historic Triumphs from around the globe are converging on Watkins Glen September 3-7 for the Kastner Cup Vintage Race, presented by Classic Motorsports magazine and Moss Motors. Among the luminaries will be the famed Group 44 factory race cars, the first production Triumph sports car, and - of course - Kas Kastner, the legendary Triumph tuner, racer and head of the North American Triumph Competition Department. It's all part of the Sportscar Vintage Racing Association's U.S. Vintage Grand Prix, the Grand Prix the largest vintage race weekend in the east. Kastner will present the Kastner Cup to the racer who best embodies the spirit of the marque and the event for the award. He'll also be on hand to assist racers and talk to fans of the marque. TS01, a 1953 TR2 that holds the distinction of being the first production Triumph sports car off the line, will also be there. Joe Richards, who painstakingly restored TSO1 to its historic original specs, will be honored by Friends of Triumph, the North America-based group of Triumph racers and race fans. Triumph enthusiasts and racers will also be welcomed into the Friends of Triumph Hospitality Tent and into the town of Watkins Glen, where the local Chamber of Commerce organizes the yearly Grand Prix Festival on Friday. Triumph enthusiasts have an opportunity to enter in a Triumph-only road rally, and selected SVRA race cars will make a trip down from the track, park on display, and then take parade laps of the original 6.6 mile street circuit. For more information on this amazing weekend of vintage and historic racing go to ClassicMotorsports.net/kastner-cup or contact Tim Baxter at baxter at classicmotorsports.net. Classic Motorsports, now in its 20th year of publication, is the hands-on magazine for the classic sports car enthusiast who appreciates the past but lives in the present. Anyone interested in obtaining a free sample of Classic Motorsports can request one through our Web site, classicmotorsports.net. For quicker service, please call the magazine's offices at (800) 520-8292. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 12 08:23:49 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 10:23:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers In-Reply-To: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> References: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <200801121023.49835.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 11 January 2008 10:53 am, Phil Bacon wrote: > Listers: > This is off topic, but I hope some listers will respond. Am thinking of > purchasing a gas powered pressure washer for home use. Any suggestions? > The electric ones are useless for patio/driveway cleaning etc. What's the > preference, direct or belt drive? Anything to look out for? Desireable > features? There seem to be a jillion brands, set-ups out there...very > confusing. > Mandatory LBC content....I've heard these are great for cleaning wire > wheels.....Thanks > Phil Bacon, 72 TR-6 > > Phil, I got a Troy Built 2450 PSI 2.5 GPM unit at lowes about 4 years ago. It has a Honda 5.0 OHC engine and came with 4 tips + cleaner feed. It has worked great around the house. Cleaning the driveway after winter, the deck and furniture, vinyl sidiing etc. I have never tried it on the 4's wire wheels but will give it a shot this spring! That is a good idea. It is a very compact unit. 1 accessory I did get was a sand blaster to be used as a water powered blaster. That worked great on my brother's cast iron furniture we did 2 summers ago. No home should be with out a power washer! Bob From jholmgren at advertising.com Sat Jan 12 07:57:17 2008 From: jholmgren at advertising.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 09:57:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers In-Reply-To: <001f01c85506$0c53c380$2d3b1452@Platinum> References: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> <001f01c85506$0c53c380$2d3b1452@Platinum> Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6105D434E240@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> We have a brand here in UK called Karcher, very reliable, they are probably world wide. Very satisfied with mine. I've purchased a couple of Karcher electric pressure washers on eBay. Both of mine broke after one season's use. Could be bad luck on my part, or my fault for buying 'refurbished' on eBay. I bought a small gas powered model at Sears that was on sale about 4 years ago - it still starts on 1-2 pulls every time, even right out of the shed in the spring. Yes, it's about as noisy as running a lawn mower (maybe a little less) but unlike the Karcher, most of the parts are not plastic. It has 4 different tips for diffusing the spray. I'm very satisfied with it. I suppose the moral of the story is that unless you are willing to 'roll the dice', buy one locally from an established company that offers service if you have any trouble. Jim '68 Spitfire Mk3 '75 Spitfire 1500 '77 Spitfire 1500 NASS #302 York, PA www.littlebluespitfire.com The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jan 12 11:17:03 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 11:17:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers In-Reply-To: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6105D434E240@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> References: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com><001f01c85506$0c53c380$2d3b1452@Platinum> <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6105D434E240@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Message-ID: <000301c85547$54bed290$0202a8c0@newcomputer> My Electric unit is also a Karcher, purchased back in the mid 90's. I originally bought it to clean the moss off my Tile Roof when I lived in WA. Ehen I got down to AZ I didn't need to use it so much so it sat for a while. When I finally got around to using it, I discovered the seals in the pump had dried out rendering it useless. I borrowed a neighbor's unit (also a Karcher) that he bought for about 100 bucks and proceeded to blow out a seal in the pump. So I ordered a pump rebuild kit for my unit for about $60.00 and it works as good as new. Considering the pronouncements of a couple of list members, I am tempted to suspect that the cheaper Karcher units may not be very well made. I paid about $350 for the one I bought and therefore figured an extra 60 bucks for a kit would be worth the expense. Now I have to get a new seal for the neighbor's unit. It is only about 20 bucks according to the tech on the phone. Apparently it is a common occurrence since the tech recognized the symptom straight away. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Holmgren Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:57 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers We have a brand here in UK called Karcher, very reliable, they are probably world wide. Very satisfied with mine. I've purchased a couple of Karcher electric pressure washers on eBay. Both of mine broke after one season's use. Could be bad luck on my part, or my fault for buying 'refurbished' on eBay. I bought a small gas powered model at Sears that was on sale about 4 years ago - it still starts on 1-2 pulls every time, even right out of the shed in the spring. Yes, it's about as noisy as running a lawn mower (maybe a little less) but unlike the Karcher, most of the parts are not plastic. It has 4 different tips for diffusing the spray. I'm very satisfied with it. I suppose the moral of the story is that unless you are willing to 'roll the dice', buy one locally from an established company that offers service if you have any trouble. Jim From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 12 11:15:56 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 10:15:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers In-Reply-To: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6105D434E240@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Message-ID: <20080112181557.NVXH14013.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I bought a small gas powered model at Sears that was on sale > about 4 years ago I did a little digging last night, turns out that at least some of the units Sears sells are made by DeVilbiss, same as the Excell I own (and am very happy with). > Yes, it's about as noisy as running a lawn mower Mine is noticeably quieter than the mower; but that probably has something to do with the mower being almost 30 years old and still having it's original muffler Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Jan 12 05:37:17 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 12:37:17 -0000 Subject: [TR] reCarefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block References: Message-ID: <002b01c85517$de0d6e10$0201a8c0@Bevan> Just spoke to one of my old engine machine shop friends on this issue. His recollections are now (like mine) getting a bit dim but he does remember vehicle model types being painted on cylinder blocks before they arrived at the factory from Birmid - the Foundry.. They were then left outside for up to six months 'to weather.' Basically, this allows the casting to stabilise, making it easier to machine and less likely to shatter. I remember these towers of engine blocks very well. In the mid-fifties, there were many similar looking blocks that in fact weren't actually the same - having subtle differences for TR's, Vanguards and Fergusons. These were identified by painted marks - viz TR3, VAN, VDIE (Vanguard disel) and FER, so this painted number would probably have been applied at Birmid enabling the truck driver to know where to offload them. Did he care? After machining, the blocks had a quick blast of black paint - over the rust and grime! However, any blocks with i/d marks didn't get painted around the painted number. My old chum doesn't know why but said the many that did get overpainted often had the mark replicated in chinagraph. So it looks as though those with engine blocks still bearing the original identity can sleep soundly knowing the number was painted by the foundry company and not Standard-Triumph. Would this mean that the marks are even more *valuable* at concours point-scoring? Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 8:49 AM Subject: [TR] reCarefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block > There is 'TR4' hand written in orange paint on the original block of my '63 > TR4. I had it 'hot-tanked' back in 1974 when engine bath solutions were still > strong and yet the handwriting is still 60% intact. > So far I've only used keroscene this time around.. and a narrow wood chisel > inside the crusty water jacket. I will thoroughly clean all oilways and repaint > the block around the original ID marks in there is no iron showing. > I will only need to bring the block to a machine shop for installing cam > bearings if I can't locate a proper bearing tool for the new Vandervells. > Regards, > Carl > ************** > Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. > > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From dwillner at ptd.net Sat Jan 12 07:22:01 2008 From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 09:22:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Carefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block References: <20080111213003.709A61879E4@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <003101c85526$8013d240$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> I have a photo of my painted block still intact. I have washed the engine several times over the years and it still retains it "patina...." http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r237/davewillner/TR3paintonblock.jpg Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special ----- Original Message ----- From: "bill beecher" To: Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 4:30 PM Subject: [TR] Carefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block > Hit a snag at the machine shop today, they are afraid to clean the block > for > fear of removing the orange "TR3" that was hand painted on the block at > the > factory. Their normal process calls for baking the block then putting it > into a tumbler where it is blasted with steel shot. > > I understand from he VTR Judging guide the value to retaining this orange > notation on the original engine for my car, mine is about 75% completely > visible, but not sure what the safest way to thoroughly clean the block, > inside and out, to prepare it for a complete rebuild. So far, the > strongest > thing I have used is Gunk and a pressure washer at the local car wash. > Or, > am I being too anal and no-one really cares? > > Thanks, > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > It's in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day! > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1219 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 > 10:19 AM > _______________________________________________ From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Sat Jan 12 11:55:40 2008 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:55:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 alternator mounting Message-ID: Chiming in late on this and sorry I have lost track of who the original poster was, but anyway here is one solution that I used for keeping the alterator form wobbling: http://www.geocities.com/wallaces_21/alternatorbolt.html Jim Wallace 60 TR3a 2TS81417L From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Jan 12 12:08:10 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 19:08:10 -0000 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers References: <20080111.105310.19078.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com><001f01c85506$0c53c380$2d3b1452@Platinum> <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6105D434E240@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Message-ID: <009701c8554e$79be8c00$0201a8c0@Bevan> I bought mine six years ago from Woolworths in the UK for about US$70 equivalent. It's electric. So far, it's blasted the muck off the underside of my 4x4 on countless occasions, cleaned patios, washed down roof gutters, blasted so many greasy gearboxes I've lost count and - oh yes, it also gave a local marauding tomcat (who kept fouling my garage) a most successful but unsolicited enema. Cat now keeps its distance and the garage smells sweetly of oil leaks and exhaust. Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Holmgren" To: Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 2:57 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers > > We have a brand here in UK called Karcher, very reliable, they are probably > world wide. Very satisfied with mine. > > > I've purchased a couple of Karcher electric pressure washers on eBay. Both of > mine broke after one season's use. Could be bad luck on my part, or my fault > for buying 'refurbished' on eBay. > > I bought a small gas powered model at Sears that was on sale about 4 years ago > - it still starts on 1-2 pulls every time, even right out of the shed in the > spring. Yes, it's about as noisy as running a lawn mower (maybe a little > less) but unlike the Karcher, most of the parts are not plastic. It has 4 > different tips for diffusing the spray. I'm very satisfied with it. > > I suppose the moral of the story is that unless you are willing to 'roll the > dice', buy one locally from an established company that offers service if you > have any trouble. > > > Jim > > '68 Spitfire Mk3 > '75 Spitfire 1500 > '77 Spitfire 1500 > NASS #302 > York, PA > www.littlebluespitfire.com > > > > The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) > or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or > privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use > of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or > entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this > email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email > from any computer. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From thecrowes at hotmail.com Sat Jan 12 12:14:58 2008 From: thecrowes at hotmail.com (Frank - Sandy Crowe) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 11:14:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] Pressure Washers Message-ID: I bought a Karcher 5hp Honda powered washer from Costco a couple of years ago and have had no problems with it. I do drain the gas and run the carburetor dry each time I store it, and make sure it has water pressure to the pump each time it runs (do not run the pump dry!) Frank ('59 TR3, '54 Swallow Doretti) From dwillner at ptd.net Sat Jan 12 12:39:51 2008 From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:39:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] reCarefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block References: <002b01c85517$de0d6e10$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <001301c85552$e6ca8390$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> I had heard a story about the guy who supposedly painted these blocks awhile ago (disclaimer), and his nickname name was "One arm Dick." I heard he had been in the war and lost an arm and this was his job, working in the foundry doing odds and ends and what he was able? Anyone know more about this, can't recall where I heard nor can I validate if it is true or not, just a story I seemed to recall....? Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:37 AM Subject: Re: [TR] reCarefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block > Just spoke to one of my old engine machine shop friends on this issue. His > recollections are now > (like mine) getting a bit dim but he does remember vehicle model types > being painted on cylinder > blocks before they arrived at the factory from Birmid - the Foundry.. They > were then left outside > for up to six months 'to weather.' Basically, this allows the casting to > stabilise, making it easier > to machine and less likely to shatter. I remember these towers of engine > blocks very well. In the > mid-fifties, there were many similar looking blocks that in fact weren't > actually the same - having > subtle differences for TR's, Vanguards and Fergusons. These were > identified by painted marks - viz > TR3, VAN, VDIE (Vanguard disel) and FER, so this painted number would > probably have been applied at > Birmid enabling the truck driver to know where to offload them. Did he > care? > After machining, the blocks had a quick blast of black paint - over the > rust and grime! However, any > blocks with i/d marks didn't get painted around the painted number. My old > chum doesn't know why but > said the many that did get overpainted often had the mark replicated in > chinagraph. > So it looks as though those with engine blocks still bearing the original > identity can sleep soundly > knowing the number was painted by the foundry company and not > Standard-Triumph. Would this mean that > the marks are even more *valuable* at concours point-scoring? > > Jonmac > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 8:49 AM > Subject: [TR] reCarefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block > > >> There is 'TR4' hand written in orange paint on the original block of my >> '63 >> TR4. I had it 'hot-tanked' back in 1974 when engine bath solutions were >> still >> strong and yet the handwriting is still 60% intact. >> So far I've only used keroscene this time around.. and a narrow wood >> chisel >> inside the crusty water jacket. I will thoroughly clean all oilways and >> repaint >> the block around the original ID marks in there is no iron showing. >> I will only need to bring the block to a machine shop for installing cam >> bearings if I can't locate a proper bearing tool for the new Vandervells. >> Regards, >> Carl >> ************** From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Jan 12 12:53:28 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:53:28 EST Subject: [TR] Carefully Cleaning a TR3 Engine Block Message-ID: In a message dated 1/12/2008 1:40:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, dwillner at ptd.net writes: I have a photo of my painted block still intact. I have washed the engine several times over the years and it still retains it "patina...." Dave, Looks very authentic and correct. TR Just above the starter. 3 Darrell **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Jan 12 12:59:18 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:59:18 EST Subject: [TR] Frozen Tach Message-ID: Bummer, I just put a NOS Tach in the GT6+ and it snapped the cable at the distributor! I took it back out and it appears to be frozen. What's up with that? Darrell **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jan 12 13:10:08 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:10:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Frozen Tach In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000d01c85557$210831c0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Having just finished overhauling my son's mechanical tach (Mk2 Spit), I can say that it is probably to do with the piece that goes into the tach to power the magnet that couples to the movement. It is easy to fix but requires some precision disassembly and reassembly. You have to remove the thing from the case (Remove the face and take out the 2 screws on the back. Carefully pry off the needle and remove the two small screws that secure the face plate. There are 4 screws that connect the rear drive mechanism to the movement. Be careful with the movement when removing it so that the parts are intact. Once you get the two parts separated, there are two screws that will allow you to remove the rear housing and pull out the shaft for cleaning. Once you clean the shaft and housing to allow the shaft to spin freely, reverse the process to get it back together again. Hopefully, you have not damaged the nylon drive gear in the dizzy. Those are no longer being produced as far as I can tell. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 12:59 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Frozen Tach Bummer, I just put a NOS Tach in the GT6+ and it snapped the cable at the distributor! I took it back out and it appears to be frozen. What's up with that? Darrell **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Jan 12 13:46:17 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:46:17 EST Subject: [TR] [Spits] Frozen Tach Message-ID: Thanks Joe, I will first practice on an old Tach I have before going for the new one. Funny I now have two yes two NOS Tachs for the GT6+ that don't work. In addition to the frozen one I have another that reads real low and is not very responsive. They both have bright fluorescent red needles which was my goal on all the gauges. I should have left things alone since I had a working Tach in there, just had the typical faded needle. I put a NOS OD Type Speedo in two today Too. Fingers crossed there. I am hopeful that it will give me a more accurate MPH reading. No Cheers, Darrell BTW I took the GT out for an extended run today and she ran real cool. Never even approached half on the old Smiths Temp gauge. 40 degrees and all is good! Triumph in Winter! **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From triumph66 at gmail.com Sat Jan 12 13:54:48 2008 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:54:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Flywheel Lightening In-Reply-To: <004c01c84d44$027bc5c0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> References: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> <004c01c84d44$027bc5c0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: Interesting article from the Tasmanian TR website on flywheel lightening, see, http://tinyurl.com/2qvs39 Race Engines Design of Rossvile, GA is mentioned, NFI Ted On Jan 2, 2008 8:33 AM, Nolan wrote: > There's no magical number that makes things ok for street, or bad for > street > use. Mostly it's the driver. If you can handle an engine that's a bit > more > easily stalled, requiring you to slightly rev it higher and slip the > clutch > just a touch longer, you'll be fine with a light flywheel. If you can't > do > that, then you may not want a light flywheel. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > While I have my engine and tranny out I hope to have my flywheel > lightened > > and balanced. I seem to recall that there are "dangers" in taking too > much > > weight off relative to impacting drivability. > > > > Can someone enlighten (sorry.....bad pun) me as to what is an acceptable > > flywheel weight for a "daily driver". > -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO http://www.triumphowners.com/967 From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca Sat Jan 12 14:31:11 2008 From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:31:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers Message-ID: <4789319F.8060603@shaw.ca> > Message: 10 > Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 15:04:48 -0800 > From: "Randall" > Subject: Re: [TR] Off topic, pressure washers > Cc: > Message-ID: <01d701c854a6$5d60d2f0$6a5636cc at jdnet.deere.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >> > Didn't say the electric washers have no power...the problem >> > with them is that >> > the power is only in a small area, >> > > FWIW, they sell a nozzle that throws a spinning needle spray. Keeps the > same power but covers a larger area. > > http://tinyurl.com/2z6u38 > > Randall The spinning turbo nozzles do a good job of creating an interesting swirling pattern on your concrete driveway :-) Take it easy with the turbo nozzles even on a cheap 1400psi electric pressure washer like I have. Doug From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Jan 12 14:45:28 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 16:45:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Overdrive Switch Message-ID: <014701c85564$72a75a80$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5> List, Do any of you folks who own TR3's know how to determine if a TR 3 OD switch is a reproduction vs an original? Do the reproduction switches have Lucas England on the back side? I have 2, one of which I am 99% certain is an original due to it's condition and the length of time I've owned it (in excess of 25 years) and the other which is identical but in almost new condition. I've owned it the same amount of time. The original switch has a lot of it's black paint scuffed off and looks weathered as though it sat around a while in a box of spares or on a car that was off the road. It works but does not look very good. It is very restorable. The newer one lacks the mounting sleeve and trim piece. JVV From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Jan 12 15:30:39 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:30:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel gauge test Message-ID: <514735B5-8084-4EC7-9EB4-F1D5FE1C36FD@cox.net> Well I ordered a new sender unit from Moss & when I tested fresh out of the box I got 0 Ohms resistance no matter where I moved the float. But given that the resistance device sits down in the gasoline I thought I would try in in my 2/3s full tank. Still getting 0 Ohms. Before I called Moss I wanted to test the gauge as well. So I thought I would go down to the local Radio Shack & buy a couple of resistors to check it out as well. Since the gauge is supposed to show full at about 70 Ohms I thought I would try to get something close to 70 & something around 35. Given I took my last physics class 40+ years ago any advice would be very much appreciated. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jan 12 15:48:16 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:48:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Frozen Tach In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001401c8556d$38b8f1e0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Probably from sitting that has caused the shaft to freeze up. You might want to spray it with a silicon lubricant. That will give it a bit of lubrication without having anything that will harden with age. Joe _____ From: TR250Driver at aol.com [mailto:TR250Driver at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 1:46 PM To: spitlist at cox.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Frozen Tach Thanks Joe, I will first practice on an old Tach I have before going for the new one. Funny I now have two yes two NOS Tachs for the GT6+ that don't work. In addition to the frozen one I have another that reads real low and is not very responsive. They both have bright fluorescent red needles which was my goal on all the gauges. I should have left things alone since I had a working Tach in there, just had the typical faded needle. I put a NOS OD Type Speedo in two today Too. Fingers crossed there. I am hopeful that it will give me a more accurate MPH reading. No Cheers, Darrell BTW I took the GT out for an extended run today and she ran real cool. Never even approached half on the old Smiths Temp gauge. 40 degrees and all is good! Triumph in Winter! _____ Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new year. From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sat Jan 12 16:05:21 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 18:05:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] SU Leaks Message-ID: <00a001c8556f$9c988070$6401a8c0@STATION6> Thought I would share this finding concerning my leaking SU's on my 59 TR3A. I have been living with an intermittent leak from the bottom bolt that attaches the float bowl to the carb body on both carbs. Tightening, loosening, tightening would ultimately seal the gas leak. At times it would stream regardless of how tight it was made. But recently I could not get it to stop. Leaking at the bottom just above the exhaust manifold did not make me too comfortable. Spoke with Joe Curto who recommended his Viton seals. I ordered them and received them in 3 days. They hold up to modern fuel blends much better than the standard rubber ones and we thought the seals in my rebuild kit were deteriorating. Two required/bowl, top and bottom. (note-Joe's seals are better designed as they have a groove on the contact side that better grips the body) After installing them, I still had a strong leak from the bottom bolt on the front carb. Long story short - after examining the bolt, I discovered that the hole in the bolt that allows fuel to pass was actually just below the top of the seal where it grips the bolt body. This allowed the fuel to pass between the seal and the body of the bolt and out the bottom bypassing the effect of the seal. By pressing the base of the seal all the way down against the washer on the bolt head insuring that the top of the seal was below the bolt hole and then carefully installing the bowl immediately solved the problem. The hole in the bolt is slightly elongated top and bottom. This elongation just about touches the top of the seal that grips the bolt body. If the seal is allowed to be above this elongation the bolt will leak regardless of the seal. I felt like I was on the show Mystery ER. Don't know if anyone else has experienced this leaking problem, but if so you might want to check this out. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 12 17:29:36 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 16:29:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel gauge test In-Reply-To: <514735B5-8084-4EC7-9EB4-F1D5FE1C36FD@cox.net> Message-ID: <20080113002936.KSLZ24798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > Well I ordered a new sender unit from Moss & when I tested fresh out > of the box I got 0 Ohms resistance no matter where I moved > the float. Ok, so it's bad or shorted somehow. Not sure how the repros are made, but on the originals there was a fiber washer on the stud where the sender wire goes. If that washer is missing, or mistakenly replaced with steel, it will cause a short. But since it's a new unit, it should be assembled correctly ... I'd just return it. Except ... (I've got to say this) ... are you sure your ohmmeter is on the ohms (x1) scale and not Kohms or Mohms ? And that it works properly ? I'd try measuring something else, like maybe between the terminals on the fuel gauge, to see if it gives a reasonable reading there. > But given that the resistance device sits down in the > gasoline I thought I would try in in my 2/3s full tank. > Still getting 0 Ohms. The resistance device is usually out of the fuel, so hopefully not affected at all. > Before I called Moss I wanted to test the gauge as well. The directions at http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_10.htm are great. Written for an MGA, but it's gauge is nearly identical to the TR3. As you'll see there, he suggests two 68 ohm resistors, which you can connect in parallel for half scale (34 ohms). The resistances might not be exactly right for a TR3A, but you're never going to get 1% accuracy anyway. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 12 17:51:56 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 17:51:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel gauge test In-Reply-To: <514735B5-8084-4EC7-9EB4-F1D5FE1C36FD@cox.net> Message-ID: <20080113005152.1DC801879D3@autox.team.net> Here is a good detailed site to show you how to hook up everything to test your guage. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm IMHO, you still have a sending unit problem, be sure all the connections are good on you test leads. On my sending unit, when it did not work, I found the very fine coil wire had broken loose from the solder joint, added a short length of wire and resoldered & Bob's your uncle! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 60TR3A Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 3:31 PM To: Triumph car discussion Sports Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel gauge test Well I ordered a new sender unit from Moss & when I tested fresh out of the box I got 0 Ohms resistance no matter where I moved the float. But given that the resistance device sits down in the gasoline I thought I would try in in my 2/3s full tank. Still getting 0 Ohms. Before I called Moss I wanted to test the gauge as well. So I thought I would go down to the local Radio Shack & buy a couple of resistors to check it out as well. Since the gauge is supposed to show full at about 70 Ohms I thought I would try to get something close to 70 & something around 35. Given I took my last physics class 40+ years ago any advice would be very much appreciated. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1220 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 6:09 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1220 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 6:09 PM From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Jan 12 19:38:25 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 21:38:25 EST Subject: [TR] Frozen Tach Message-ID: In a message dated 1/12/2008 2:59:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: I just put a NOS Tach in the GT6+ and it snapped the cable at the distributor! I took it back out and it appears to be frozen. What's up with that? ==AM== I've heard that sort of thing is not uncommon with NOS speedos and tachs. It's usually from sitting around unused all those years, and whatever lubricants and such inside harden up. Like so many other things mechanical, just sitting often does them no good at all. NOS means unused but not necessarily ready-to-use. :-( --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From PeterSchop at aol.com Sat Jan 12 23:30:13 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 01:30:13 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help diff-pin measurment Message-ID: I'm in the process of replacing the front set of differential mount pins and brackets on my '69 TR6. I have already removed the pins and brackets and will be welding the new ones on in the morning. I need to know what the d istance is from the bottom of the bracket to the taper on the threads of the pin. Also, what is the distance from the bottom of the diff bridge to the bottom of the pins? The ones I took off appear to be 1 3/4". Can that be correct? I'm putting on poly mount bushings. When I put the two bushings together, they are 1 7/8" plus the thickness of the washer and the diff yoke bracket. I do not think that the poly bushing will compress. This measurement is critical. If it is too small, I will not be able to put the nut on and if it is too great, I will have free play. TIA Peter Schoppelry PS... Please answer direct as I am in digest mode. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu Sat Jan 12 07:11:24 2008 From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 09:11:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Pressure washer/cleaning cement driveway Message-ID: From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Sun Jan 13 07:13:28 2008 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 09:13:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Pressure Washers References: Message-ID: > I do drain the gas and run the carburetor dry each time I store it, > If you're going to store it in subfreezing temperatures, it's a good idea to get the water out of the pump. Right before you put it away, turn the engine over a few times and it should pump out most of the remaining water. Whatever remains should not be enough to cause freeze damage. From 60TR3A at cox.net Sun Jan 13 09:58:11 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 09:58:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Seat Pan Message-ID: <95383776-E120-460D-B57E-3CD41A411079@cox.net> Now that the rewiring is coming to an end, I am turning my thoughts to installing the seat covers I bought the last time Moss had them on sale. The first thing I need to do is get the seat pan on the movable back seat straightened out and reinforced. 48 years of use has resulted in it have in a slight downward bend aft of the hinge point. I plan to take it to someone (I assume a body shop type person) to have it straightened & reinforced. Has anyone performed such a repair & if so, what words of advice do you have?? Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu Sun Jan 13 14:40:48 2008 From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 16:40:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Pressure washer/cleaning cement driveway Attempt # 2 Message-ID: I will chime in on cleaning cement, ie driveways and patios. A pressure washer is the wrong tool. Rent a propane or gasoline powered floor scrubber to clean your drive and you won't regret the results. That is how the pros do it and it makes cement look new. I will do it if I ever want to sell my home. Otherwise it will get dirty again fairly soon. Arnold From 60TR3A at cox.net Sun Jan 13 15:19:42 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 15:19:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Gauge Rebuild Message-ID: Well with the help of my neighbor, who is an EE, we determined that gas gauge has been fried & that sender is working fine. So I guess I need to send the gauge off to be repaired. Moss Motors suggests: - West Valley Instruments, Reseda, CA - MO-MA, Albuquerque, NM Does anybody have any experience with either of these two companies or any other suggestions?? Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jan 13 15:33:38 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 17:33:38 EST Subject: [TR] Pressure washer/cleaning cement driveway Attempt # 2 Message-ID: I have seen this thread and have not followed it so if I am late with this suggestion, pardon me. I discovered some stuff called "Pour and Restore". which is an oil, etc. stain remover for concrete. It works remarkably well with little effort. The down side is that it is expensive. I searched out a product at Lowes made by Seal Krete that is called OSR and appears to be exactly the same stuff but a whole lot less. I have been able to remove old soaked in stains from my garage floor with this stuff. You spread it over the stained area and let it dry (usually a day or more), and sweep it up. It is said to be the proper prep in the various steps in preparing a "seasoned floor" for coating. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From 60TR3A at cox.net Sun Jan 13 15:42:07 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 15:42:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Gauge Rebuild In-Reply-To: <02ac01c85634$ade20ca0$6401a8c0@STATION6> References: <02ac01c85634$ade20ca0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <260B49E7-308F-4BB6-AD25-164938E61875@cox.net> A used one would be fine with me. I would sincerely appreciate the contact info!! John On 13 Jan, 2008, at 3:36 PM, Alex wrote: > Hi John, > Don't know exactly what you are looking for in a gauge. If you want > a good working nice gauge a used one would be fine. I can put you in > touch with a few people who can help you. It would be considerably > cheaper than having it restored or even fixed. A used gauge can be > had for around $15-$20 plus shipping. Just let me know if you are > interested. NFI. > Alex Manzo > 72 TR6 > 59 TR3A > ----- Original Message ----- From: "60TR3A" <60TR3A at cox.net> > To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" > Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 5:19 PM > Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Gauge Rebuild > > >> Well with the help of my neighbor, who is an EE, we determined that >> gas gauge has been fried & that sender is working fine. So I guess I >> need to send the gauge off to be repaired. Moss Motors suggests: >> >> - West Valley Instruments, Reseda, CA >> - MO-MA, Albuquerque, NM >> >> Does anybody have any experience with either of these two companies >> or >> any other suggestions?? >> >> Thanks >> >> John >> >> John A. Wise >> Glendale, AZ >> >> 1960 Triumph TR3A >> Commission No: TS80422L >> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ >> http://www.triumphowners.com/876 >> >> 1977 Porsche 911S >> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as ambritts at bellsouth.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From 60TR3A at cox.net Sun Jan 13 15:45:15 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 15:45:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pressure washer/cleaning cement driveway Attempt # 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <08C0BAE7-EC32-4861-B40A-60A4B9DD929D@cox.net> I also have used "Pour & Restore" with good results. Thanks for the tip about Lowes, as Pour & Restore is indeed rather expensive! John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jan 13 16:45:47 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 18:45:47 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Gauge Rebuild Message-ID: I am looking for a 3A speedo. Any possibility there? I tried to repair mine and found some parts missing. As well it is very worn. May expalin why I just rebuilt the motor and tranny. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jan 13 18:30:06 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 20:30:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff Message-ID: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> This goes under the "what were they thinking" category. The frame of the TR6 grill has a plastic coating of some sort which is, in turn, covered with a chrome piece. The plastic probably seemed like a good idea at the time but all it takes is moisture getting in between the plastic and the metal and you have an instant rust recipe. As part of my ever growing shipwright's disease, I removed the grill, disassembled it and cut away the plastic cover. Here's what it looks like underneath (http://tinyurl.com/3ajgwj) The metal on the top of the grill is as nice as the day it was installed....the sides and bottom are another story. Two questions for the List: is that brass solder on the grill frame corners in the pictures and what kind of metal is the egg crate part of the grill made of? My Nissan differential is also moving along and can be seen here http://tinyurl.com/2jnn7p That POR-15 is amazing stuff. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1221 - Release Date: 1/12/2008 2:04 PM From mrv8q at aim.com Sun Jan 13 18:49:54 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 20:49:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Gauge Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CA2466E4E4154C-80C-1AFC@FWM-M20.sysops.aol.com> Well with the help of my neighbor, who is an EE, we determined that gas gauge has been fried & that sender is working fine. So I guess I need to send the gauge off to be repaired. Moss Motors suggests: - West Valley Instruments, Reseda, CA - MO-MA, Albuquerque, NM John, I've used West Valley instruments twice, once on my TR3 temp gauge, and a TR6 tach.... "Morris" does good work, I'd use them again..... I picked up/dropped off, as they're local, no experience w/ mail with them... Best, Kevin Browne ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AIM(R) Mail ! - http://webmail.aim.com From pfischer at rmi.net Sun Jan 13 19:47:00 2008 From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 20:47:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <478ACD24.404@rmi.net> I think the issue is that your insurance company needs to be able to value your car in case you have a serious claim. That is much easier on a 93 Toyota than a 63 TR4. (Easier for them and easier for you.) It's pretty simple to find a professional reference for what your 4 is worth. Why not do that and call your agent? Say, "If my Triumph is wrecked, what are you going to give me for it?" This thread started because a list member was getting a quote from his insurance company on his damaged 4 that was less than he thought it was worth. It's not the insurance company's fault; they're unfamiliar with the cars and the cars' values. I had a car fire in my beloved 250 several years back. It didn't even damage all that much, when you think about it, but a restoration cost $7,000. I was really, REALLY happy that I had an agreement with my insurance company that stated the car was worth $12,000. Maybe you don't have that much invested in your British cars. Your choice of course. I just don't think that ugly surprises are what insurance is about. BearTranserv at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 12/26/2007 12:17:27 PM Mountain Standard Time, > pfischer at rmi.net writes: > > However, since we all are a little shaky on the terms - agreed vs. > stated - it's very important to ask the question of your agent: > Which do > I have on my car? And what happens if...? > > Pat > > I know I'm late chiming in, but I don't have either stated or agreed > value on my cars. They call it, I think, replacement value. > > My wife just wrecked the 93 Toyota Celica, 55000 miles on it. USAA, > in about 10 days, sent us a check for $5700.00, and we got to keep the > car. My mechanic and body man is fixing it for a little under > $3000.00 and will respray the entire car. > > Since it stayed in my name, there should be no "salvage" title > problems either. > > I haven't had a claim on the TR or MGs yet, but I anticipate similar > service. > > Robert B. Houston > Texan in New Mexico > > 63 TR4 From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 13 20:14:29 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 20:14:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Gauge Rebuild In-Reply-To: <8CA2466E4E4154C-80C-1AFC@FWM-M20.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20080114031427.C4D8F187A0D@autox.team.net> I have seen several rave reviews for Mo-Ma, I called Margaret there and she told me they were backed up until summer of 2009. If you have the time everyone speaks highly of them and their cost is reasonable. Don't know anything about WVI. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mrv8q at aim.com Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 6:50 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Fuel Gauge Rebuild Well with the help of my neighbor, who is an EE, we determined that gas gauge has been fried & that sender is working fine. So I guess I need to send the gauge off to be repaired. Moss Motors suggests: - West Valley Instruments, Reseda, CA - MO-MA, Albuquerque, NM John, I've used West Valley instruments twice, once on my TR3 temp gauge, and a TR6 tach.... "Morris" does good work, I'd use them again..... I picked up/dropped off, as they're local, no experience w/ mail with them... Best, Kevin Browne ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AIM(R) Mail ! - http://webmail.aim.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1220 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 6:09 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1223 - Release Date: 1/13/2008 8:23 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 13 21:07:06 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 20:07:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation In-Reply-To: <478ACD24.404@rmi.net> Message-ID: <20080114040705.DOUM29591.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > It's not the insurance company's fault; > they're unfamiliar with the cars and the cars' values. All I can say is that Mercury seemed to have a pretty good idea what a 59 TR3A was worth, in the condition they evaluated it in. Ditto a 71 Stag. Then when the 3A got wrecked, they seemed to have no trouble finding comparable cars that had sold recently, in my region, and averaging the sales price to get a 'value'. > I had a car fire in my beloved 250 And that where you start getting into trouble; when you become emotionally attached to the car. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 13 21:10:57 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 20:10:57 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Gauge Rebuild In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080114041056.PCO24798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > Does anybody have any experience with either of these two > companies or any other suggestions?? I've lost track ... did someone already suggest picking up a used gauge ? Good working TR3 fuel gauges typically sell for $15-$25 on eBay; while you are probably looking at $100 or more for someone to restore yours. That's fine if you are building a show car; but maybe not so fine if you are just doing a 'driver'. BTW, I've also heard good things about North Hollywood Speedometer and Clock Co; but have no personal experience with them. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jan 14 04:47:05 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 06:47:05 EST Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation Message-ID: In a message dated 1/13/2008 11:07:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: And that where you start getting into trouble; when you become emotionally attached to the car. Agreed, but. . .I spend more time with it than my wife! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Jan 14 06:43:16 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 08:43:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff In-Reply-To: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <200801140843.17347.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 13 January 2008 08:30 pm, Bob Danielson wrote: > This goes under the "what were they thinking" category. The frame of the > TR6 grill has a plastic coating of some sort which is, in turn, covered > with a chrome piece. The plastic probably seemed like a good idea at the > time but all it takes is moisture getting in between the plastic and the > metal and you have an instant rust recipe. As part of my ever growing > shipwright's disease, I removed the grill, disassembled it and cut away the > plastic cover. Here's what it looks like underneath > (http://tinyurl.com/3ajgwj) The metal on the top of the grill is as nice as > the day it was installed....the sides and bottom are another story. Two > questions for the List: is that brass solder on the grill frame corners in > the pictures and what kind of metal is the egg crate part of the grill made > of? > > My Nissan differential is also moving along and can be seen here > http://tinyurl.com/2jnn7p That POR-15 is amazing stuff. > > Thanks > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > Bob, The brass solder on the corners is most likely a bronze braze. That joint will never rust! Not privvy to TR6s so I cant tell you what the grill composition is. Bob From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 14 10:37:10 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 17:37:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Seat Pan In-Reply-To: <95383776-E120-460D-B57E-3CD41A411079@cox.net> References: <95383776-E120-460D-B57E-3CD41A411079@cox.net> Message-ID: Put it on the garage floor and hit it with a hammer along the bend. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008 From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Jan 14 11:03:18 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 13:03:18 EST Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation Message-ID: Well, I'm kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place. The 93 Toyota was the only thing I've made a claim on that I could base an opinion on. If I insist on an "agreed value" I will be stuck with collector car insurance issued through USAA and their policy has strick mileage and use limits. I just don't want to go there right now as I plan on using the TR4 to drive to work and back when the weather is appropriate. When the Toyota was wrecked, I searched NADA, KBB, and Ebay, and the insurance company gave me more that any of those indicated. I guess I'll just pay my $200 per year for the TR4 and take my chances. Robert In a message dated 1/13/2008 7:47:16 PM Mountain Standard Time, pfischer at rmi.net writes: I think the issue is that your insurance company needs to be able to value your car in case you have a serious claim. That is much easier on a 93 Toyota than a 63 TR4. (Easier for them and easier for you.) It's pretty simple to find a professional reference for what your 4 is worth. Why not do that and call your agent? Say, "If my Triumph is wrecked, what are you going to give me for it?" This thread started because a list member was getting a quote from his insurance company on his damaged 4 that was less than he thought it was worth. It's not the insurance company's fault; they're unfamiliar with the cars and the cars' values. I had a car fire in my beloved 250 several years back. It didn't even damage all that much, when you think about it, but a restoration cost $7,000. I was really, REALLY happy that I had an agreement with my insurance company that stated the car was worth $12,000. Maybe you don't have that much invested in your British cars. Your choice of course. I just don't think that ugly surprises are what insurance is about. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From trhouse at greenapple.com Mon Jan 14 14:07:28 2008 From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 16:07:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Old racing photos In-Reply-To: Message-ID: on 1/9/08 9:10 PM, ZoboHerald at aol.com at ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 1/9/2008 8:48:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > dorpaul at negia.net writes: > > I've enjoyed the old racecars shown at the link(s) below, however, I am > surprised not to have seen a Triumph in my search so far. Has anyone seen a > Triumph pictured at any of Tam's Old Racecar site? > > > ==AM== > Paul, since the pictures apparently date from 1953, that era precedes the > TR2, and no Triumph that came before would've been, er, "sporting" enough. > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, > Triumph Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and > Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ > (http://triumph-herald.us/) > > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as trhouse at greenapple.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > search the site for Binney Allied Doretti From steven at newellboys.com Mon Jan 14 18:02:22 2008 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 18:02:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values, insurance In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <478C061E.1010807@newellboys.com> I carry USAA for all my cars. Since we only have old cars, and drive the tar out of them, collector policies don't really make sense for our family. I've had two USAA claims on old cars. The first was my '72 BMW 2002 in a hailstorm around 2001. The coverage was "replacement value" as is my TR4 now. I had to put in a little time researching and educating the adjustors, but ultimately it turned out well. Their first offer was $1250 based on the only rocky mountain region newspaper advert they could find. Nowadays they'd find lots comparables online. After some cajoling on the phone, they noticed a collector car value guide laying around their office and offered $3000, which I accepted. I'd bought the car for $3500 in '97. They said salvage value was $900, so I kept the car and got a check for $2100. I drove the car another 2 or 3 years before selling it for $1800. Second claim: I ran the Triumph into a Ford Explorer 5 years ago. The repair estimate was $3500. They had my photos on file, and looked up the value of the car in their guide then said "yep, that's definitely worth fixing. We have no idea where to have your car fixed, so just pick a specialist and have it done." They direct paid the shop, my favorite local British car specialist, and the guys did a great job. I heard later they beat up the shop owner on price, but he didn't mention it till a year or two ago. A totalled or stolen Triumph may be harder. But if you can prove the condition of your car -- say with regular photos and car show awards or whatever -- then it's relatively easy to find comparables and establish the cost to replace a car. If you spent $50K on a restoration, you won't get your money back, but you wouldn't when you sold it either. If your car is mechanically in great condition, and you have receipts to prove it, that counts a little. Again, you don't get your money back, but you should be able to narrow the list of comparable cars to those in similar cosmetic and mechanical condition for purposes of establishing a value. It might not be enough to restore a family heirloom, but it would be enough to buy another nice Triumph and drive it hard. Steven From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Jan 14 19:30:08 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 21:30:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] my TR3's control head Message-ID: <001701c8571e$8f96f6d0$8894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, I spent this weekend working on my steering. I only got out 2 of the 3 tiny setscrews that must hold the control head to the steering wheel. I drilled out the third screw, however, the control head still did not want to seperate and after limited prying on the pretty brown plastic, I decided to just leave it on the steering wheel (without removing it). I had seen where (hopefully just) the brown wire was making metal to metal contact with the bottom end of the stator tube (as it emerges the tube beyond the steering box). Wrapping this naked spot with electrical tape had been my best reason for wanting to remove the control head, to begin with Since I had given up on the control head. I decided to run up the 4-strand control head's wiring with a 2" piece of 'shrink tubing' that just might insulate the naked wire from the stator tube. I managed to slide it up all the strands (togather) and into the tube and partially out-of-sight (half in- half out of the bottom end of the stator tube). To find out if I had achieved success, I tested each of the 4 wires with a AA- powered short circuit tester. Not really knowing what wires go where, I found several wires that made a circuit when the turn signals were activated. The one that I was most concerned about was the brown wire which made a strong circuit when it was touched with the metal stator tube. Does this mean that my 'shrink tubing' fix did not work? Or is this suppose to happen? I am hoping someone can tell me how to check for other electrical problems, or electrical 'symptoms' before I insert the stator tube through the steering column. Please tell me (by understanding what I have said, IF you think it's worth risking harm to an intact plastic control head to risk somehow removing it. I am ok with my 'patch job' using shrink tubing only IF this repair works!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It may be that others think I need to wait till I get more of my car's wiring working so that I can test the control head wiring for horns and blinker. These are the only things a control head do aren't they? I'm hoping someone can tell me how to do a reliable test of these 4 wires so that I don't have to remove a difficult-and-reluctant control head. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From 6parts at charter.net Mon Jan 14 20:13:11 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 22:13:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Clutch Replacement Message-ID: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to accelerate onto I-85 today. Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. Thanks Al From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 14 20:33:18 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 22:33:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <000901c85727$61b0b1d0$210110ac@bobspc> Al, This is when shipwrights can enter the equation! Pull the engine and tranny as a unit and you can do all sorts of winter projects on both! From what I've heard, the hardest part of pulling the tranny by itself is getting the starter off. Having said that.............at VTR in Valley Forge this summer, a guy swapped out his tranny in the parking lot! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 10:13 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to accelerate onto I-85 today. Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. Thanks Al 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1223 - Release Date: 1/13/2008 8:23 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1223 - Release Date: 1/13/2008 8:23 PM From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Jan 14 20:44:34 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 22:44:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <8CA2540145545B2-330-29B7@webmail-mf17.sysops.aol.com> Hi Al, Since you asked a general question I will offer a general answer, with the offer of additional information if you want more specifics.? The process is not difficult, just a bit time consuming.? You can do almost all of it yourself though it is helpful and safer to have someone assist you with removal and installation of the gearbox itself.? It is also a bit quicker if you can get a "friend" to help you by holding a wrench on the bolt heads inside the engine bay while you loosen and tighten them from inside the car.? However, there are other things to consider replacing, "while you are there".? Depending on how much wear you have on your clutch fork, cross shaft and cross shaft bushings you may want to replace these.? It is a very good time to drill and pin the clutch fork pin so you dont have to worry as much about it snapping off.? Inspect the holes for the clevis pin where the slave cylinder attaches to the cross shaft and inspect the cross shaft for wear at the point it rides on the bushings.? My gearbox had old bushings installed that were almost half the size of the opening the slide into.? New ones from TRF were almost twice as big, offering a greater area for the cross shaft to rotate on.? Of course, take notes, pictures and use bags to label nuts and bolts, etc.? Oh yeah, check out the flywheel also.? I am sure I have forgotten and omitted lots of stuff. Cheers, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 10:13 pm Subject: [TR] Clutch Replacement Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to accelerate onto I-85 today. Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. Thanks Al ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 14 23:05:22 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 22:05:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <8CA2540145545B2-330-29B7@webmail-mf17.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20080115060522.WVLP24798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > My gearbox had old bushings installed that were > almost half the size of the opening the slide into.? Those are, I believe, the stock bushings for a TR6. > New ones > from TRF were almost twice as big, offering a greater area > for the cross shaft to rotate on.? Those would be the RH bushing from a TR2-4, I believe, P/N 36998. I agree, a worthwhile upgrade. I also like to add grease zerks so the bushings can be lubed if the shaft doesn't already have them. Don't know about a TR6, but the Stag doesn't have enough room for the TR3-style zerks on the shaft, so I put them in the housing instead. Also a good time to replace the pilot bearing; and make sure the "dowel bolts" are present. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 14 23:18:06 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 22:18:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] my TR3's control head In-Reply-To: <001701c8571e$8f96f6d0$8894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080115061806.XCZK24798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > and after > limited prying on the pretty brown plastic, I decided to > just leave it on the steering wheel (without removing it). Paul, While I would hate for you to break your pretty control head, I think you should put some more effort into getting it apart. I think you are going to wind up having to remove those wires, which can't be done without removing the control head as well. > To find out if I had achieved success, I tested each of > the 4 wires with a > AA- powered short circuit tester. To make any sense of this test, you must disconnect the wires from the rest of the car. > The one that I was most concerned about was the brown wire > which made a strong circuit when it was touched with the > metal stator tube. Does this mean that my 'shrink tubing' > fix did not work? Or is this suppose to happen? If you've disconnected the end of the wire at the 4-way bullet connector near the LH horn; then you should not see continuity between the wire and the stator tube. If you do, it means that either the horn button is stuck (since it connects the wire to the tube to sound the horns), or the wire is shorted to the tube. > I am hoping > someone can tell me how to check for other electrical > problems, or electrical 'symptoms' before I insert the stator > tube through the steering column. With the horn button released and the turn signal switch off, you should not find continuity between any of the wires, or between any of the wires and ground. Holding the horn button down should produce continuity only between the brown/black and ground (the stator tube) with the other 3 wires still open. Moving the turn switch to the left turn position should produce continuity only between the green/red and green (or was it light green) wires. Right turn should only be green/white and green. If it passes all that, the wiring in the stator tube and control head switches are OK. > so that I can test the > control head wiring for horns and blinker. These are the > only things a control head do aren't they? That's all they do. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jan 15 06:24:18 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 08:24:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A50EE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> <000901c85727$61b0b1d0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A50EE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <002901c85779$f1af0e60$210110ac@bobspc> I put my 4 speed tranny on a shipping scale Sunday and it weighs in at 73 pounds without an OD. It takes a manly man to move it around by yourself. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com] Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 10:54 PM To: Bob Danielson; 'Alan Salvatore'; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack' Subject: RE: [6pack] Clutch Replacement The hardest part about pulling the tranny is putting it back in... Tranny with no OD weighs around 60lbs, with OD around 100lbs and it is very awkward to get into position and mated to the engine. There seems to be no device that can help with this process so it is brute force, snatch and heave. Very manly activity though. Removing the engine and tranny as a unit takes longer but is overall less stressful and more deterministic and it facilitates all those other little projects that you have been putting off. Does that sleeve need the crank to be reground or does it just slide over the rear seal surface ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 10:33 PM To: 'Alan Salvatore'; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Replacement Al, This is when shipwrights can enter the equation! Pull the engine and tranny as a unit and you can do all sorts of winter projects on both! From what I've heard, the hardest part of pulling the tranny by itself is getting the starter off. Having said that.............at VTR in Valley Forge this summer, a guy swapped out his tranny in the parking lot! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 10:13 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to accelerate onto I-85 today. Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. Thanks Al No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1224 - Release Date: 1/14/2008 5:39 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1224 - Release Date: 1/14/2008 5:39 PM From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Tue Jan 15 07:21:22 2008 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 09:21:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] How Many Gearheads Does it Take to Put in a Tranny? Message-ID: My experience is that it takes two gearheads to take out a transmission and two or three to put one back in depending of if it's overdrive or non overdrive. With the overdrive Transmission I like to have two gearheads under the car supporting the transmission and lining it up and one in the car maneuvering the transmission and turning the tail flange to line up the main shaft with the clutch plate. In my opinion its not worth the chance of messing up the main shaft or something else by trying to remove/replace the transmission without adequate help. Bob Rochlin '72 TR6 From robertko at charter.net Tue Jan 15 07:32:53 2008 From: robertko at charter.net (robertko at charter.net) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 6:32:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Source for PVC sleeve ? Message-ID: <20080115093253.8NRGG.660337.root@fepweb06> I found Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc. carried a fairly wide range of sleeve material. I ordered some of the plastic pvc and fabric conduit for my TR6. It looks factory and allowed me to clean up some of the wiring when I installed an additional relay (for the running lights - the dash switch was failing due to the current load). URL is http://www.riwire.com/ Click on Supplies and then click on Metal and Non-Metal Conduit Tubes Hope this helps. Robert Kohout robertko at charter.net 72 and 74 TR6 ---- "Foster wrote: > Throughout the TR6 there are various times where black PVC like sleeve > material is used to buffer the wiring. We see it for the wires coming through > the inner wing for the headlamps and we see it covering the metal tabs all > over the engine bay that secure the loom. Do we have a source for that black > PVC sleeve or any suggestions for a viable alternative ? > > Stan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as robertko at charter.net From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Jan 15 07:38:59 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 09:38:59 EST Subject: [TR] How Many Gearheads Does it Take to Put in a Tranny? Message-ID: I have owned my TR3A since I bought it in 1963 from the original owner for $450. I have replaced the tranny many times. I have always done it by myself. However, there is a subtle but very serious problem with that I discovered: I had a problem in which the clutch appeared to be dragging immediately after I replaced it. I went nuts swapping components back and forth and putting my non-od tranny in , swapping it back etc. I could not put the car in gear with the engine running. In desperation, I placed the clutch disc on the pilot shaft I was using and spun it. It was warped. I had warped the clutch disc by momentarily allowing the tranny to "hang" on the engine while I was readjusting my position. The solution was a $50 Harbor Freight tranny jack, which I highly recommend. If you do it by yourself or with help, it is too easy to warp the clutch disc. Mike Moore **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From FGFO1 at aol.com Tue Jan 15 09:01:54 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 11:01:54 EST Subject: [TR] best quality pistons Message-ID: old question but, may I ask where the best quality pistons and liner sets come from for the TR3 motor? Quality first, price second. And where are you guys buying your speedie sleeves from? thanks Frank Fisher **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Tue Jan 15 09:09:56 2008 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 08:09:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] How Many Gearheads Does it Take to Put in a Tranny? In-Reply-To: <003201c85781$e7a24bf0$6401a8c0@D3K4J541> Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B606@mail2.sr.local> My goodness. I don't recall one instance in the 39 years I have owned TRs 4a & 6 that I have not done tranny (OD and not) removals and re-installations as solo projects. Mostly out of necessity. First go rounds were rough. Now though through lots of practice over the years I can do the whole job (if I have all the necessary parts) in just about 6 hours. I does help being slim, tall and having long arms and the resultant leverage advantages. However I am living proof that it can be done successfully and safely. Deano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Rochlin Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 6:21 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] How Many Gearheads Does it Take to Put in a Tranny? My experience is that it takes two gearheads to take out a transmission and two or three to put one back in depending of if it's overdrive or non overdrive. With the overdrive Transmission I like to have two gearheads under the car supporting the transmission and lining it up and one in the car maneuvering the transmission and turning the tail flange to line up the main shaft with the clutch plate. In my opinion its not worth the chance of messing up the main shaft or something else by trying to remove/replace the transmission without adequate help. Bob Rochlin '72 TR6 From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com Tue Jan 15 10:06:46 2008 From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 11:06:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny alignment - use of dowels Message-ID: On January 14, Alan Salvatore wrote: "Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to accelerate onto I-85 today. Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install." ---------------- Al, I posted a response on the List a while back on how to use shoulder bolts as dowels to properly line up a tranny with the engine plate. Here's that post again: 'I had put a new TOB in two years ago and was more than dismayed when I recently started to get a squeal when I first engaged the clutch. Hours spent on the web brought up all kinds of stories on faulty new throw out bearings followed by all kinds of advice on possible cures. One of the articles on the web talked about the need to locate the gearbox center relative to the flywheel center with two 3/8 dowels or shoulder bolts. That article mentioned that most owners are unaware of the need to do this and only use 5/16 bolts in all the holes of the bell housing. This would cause an eccentric alignment between the two centers and all kinds of clutch problems. I then pulled out my gearbox and found that the 2-year-old TOB was perfectly fine, but I had used only 5/16 mounting bolts. I also found a badly worn (actually, badly machined) flywheel bushing. I replaced the flywheel bushing, used two shoulder bolts with 3/8 ground shoulders and 5/16 threads from Fastenal in the locating holes, reassembled everything and the squeal is gone. Lesson learned: Everyone, make sure you use 3/8 shoulder bolts to properly align the centers of your gearbox and flywheel. If you only use 5/16 bolts to mount your gearbox, you will get all kinds of clutch/TOB/bushing problems because of their eccentric motion.' Hope this helps, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Jan 15 10:42:09 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 12:42:09 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny alignment - use of dowels Message-ID: I agree with the dowel pin issue. Its very important that either the original dowel pins be installed or shoulder bolts. Here's something else I do which has been a big help: 1. Buy several cheap (Gr 2 or 3) 5/16-24 (?) bolts 3 inches long or so. 2. Hacksaw the heads off, and using the same hacksaw, make a slot in the end ewhere the head was for a screwdriver. 3. I install several of them in the engine to use as a guide and to slide the tranny in on to protect as much as possible the input shaft of the tranny. 4. Once the tranny is in, replace them one at a time with long bolts which you can now use as an aid to align and inert the transmission. It is very important that you know the clutch spline has been properly engaged by the input shaft before much torque is put on these bolts. Mike Moore **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 15 11:20:58 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 10:20:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny alignment - use of dowels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000101c857a3$60022c20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I agree with the dowel pin issue. Its very important that > either the > original dowel pins be installed or shoulder bolts. I agree they are important, except I believe the original parts (at least on later TR6 as well as Stag) were in fact special "dowel bolts" with full diameter shanks. Not "shoulder bolts" though, because they took 3/8" nuts rather than 5/16". P/N 132872 + HN2009 (and lock washer WL0209). Don't know if the change was because the dowels tended to fall out; or whether it was to strengthen the joint ... but if you're going to use dowels, I'd be sure to coat them with Loctite on one end or the other. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 15 11:28:36 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 10:28:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny alignment - use of dowels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000201c857a4$710dc500$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > It is very > important that you know the clutch spline has been properly > engaged by the input > shaft before much torque is put on these bolts. Another point that may or may not be helpful : I found the plastic alignment tool to be nearly worthless, because it was too loose a fit in both the clutch plate and the pilot bearing. I can do just as good a job by feeling with my fingers. A spare (ruined) input shaft makes a much better alignment tool, IMO. Personally, I don't use nuts/bolts to draw the gearbox up at all. Just wiggle it around until it slides into place. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 15 11:45:33 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 10:45:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] best quality pistons In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901c857a6$cfba9b80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > old question but, may I ask where the best quality pistons > and liner sets > come from for the TR3 motor? > Quality first, price second. Not sure where he gets them, but I buy mine from Ken at BFE. > And where are you guys buying your speedie sleeves from? NAPA store in Gardena, CA orders them for me, takes about 3 days. Not all NAPA stores are created equal though, as the one in Torrance apparently buys them only from Fel-Pro instead of Chicago Rawhide, and Fel-Pro doesn't make all the sizes that CR does. Had the same problem at my usual FLAPS, Clark's Discount in Bellflower. I went in with measurements, but after finding the right sleeve by dimensions, I noticed that the CR book actually lists the TR3/4 by application. ISTR it recommended a shorter sleeve than I had picked out, so I went with the longer one. For the Stag, there wasn't a sleeve that was a perfect fit, but the next largest one was only a few thousandths too big, so I used it along with some Loctite 'circular parts mount' to fill the gap. Seemed to work just fine. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 15 11:49:04 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 10:49:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] How Many Gearheads Does it Take to Put in a Tranny? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000a01c857a7$4d42d680$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I had warped the clutch disc by momentarily allowing the > tranny to "hang" on > the engine while I was readjusting my position. Just curious, Mike, how do you know you warped it and it didn't come out of the box that way ? Randall From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com Tue Jan 15 12:27:15 2008 From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 13:27:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny alignment - use of dowels Message-ID: >Don't know if the change was because the dowels tended to fall out; or >whether it was to strengthen the joint ... but if you're going to use >dowels, I'd be sure to coat them with Loctite on one end or the other. Our Manitoba TR club historian, who seems to have encyclopedic knowledge of these things, claims that early TR6's used the dowels, but after a number of engine/transmission separations due to weak clamping force, Triumph apparently went to the shoulder bolts instead. Sounds like that extra clamping force is very necessary. Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Jan 15 12:34:12 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 11:34:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] How Many Gearheads Does it Take to Put in a Tranny? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: There is a clever device called a transmission jack ... it rolls under the car, you put the transmission on the transmission jack, move it as you desire, forward, backward, up, down, makes the whole experience ... gratifying ... ;-) >My experience is that it takes two gearheads to take out a transmission and >two or three to put one back in depending of if it's overdrive or non >overdrive. With the overdrive Transmission I like to have two gearheads >under the car supporting the transmission and lining it up and one in the >car maneuvering the transmission and turning the tail flange to line up the >main shaft with the clutch plate. > In my opinion its not worth the chance of messing up the main shaft >or something else by trying to remove/replace the transmission without >adequate help. > > >Bob Rochlin > >'72 TR6 -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Jan 15 12:36:07 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 11:36:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] best quality pistons In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ken Gillander ... no contest ... >old question but, may I ask where the best quality pistons and liner sets >come from for the TR3 motor? >Quality first, price second. >And where are you guys buying your speedie sleeves from? >thanks >Frank Fisher > -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Jan 15 12:39:26 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 14:39:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tranny's Message-ID: <00b101c857ae$56b3f760$b91f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> A few years back (8, maybe) a member of our Model A club decided he needed to replace the clutch, remember the "A" is well over a foot higher in height than any LBC, and wide open underneath (no frame in the way), so a fairly easy job, he dropped the tranny on his chest and he died there under the car, sure most of the time one person can remove a tranny, but why take such a chance, it's not worth it. "FT" From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Jan 15 12:45:46 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 14:45:46 EST Subject: [TR] How Many Gearheads Does it Take to Put in a Tranny? Message-ID: Randall, I've owned my car since 64. I have frequently day dreamed what it would be like to work for the factory designing this car. I used to measure my skills as a Mech Engineer against what the guys who designed the TR did* compared to how I would have done it. "They" usually, if not always, won. (There are a number of design details of the TR which worked there way into stuff I've designed.) Long ago, I did a mental calculation of the Section Modulus of the tranny input shaft and the Bending Moment and concluded that hanging the tranny on the engine would hurt neither the tranny input bearing nor cause the input shaft to yield. In my arrogance, I overlooked the clutch disk! I abused the clutch disc by never hesitating to let the tranny hang on the input shaft. While its possible the disc was warped as received, I think its unlikely. I think I would have noticed it as it was with a new pressure plate in the box. I would HOPE I would have noticed it. Over the years, I have also had times when some new clutches dragged until ultimately replaced. I used to think it was just a "bad" clutch. Hmm. Best, Mike Moore * By the way, one of my great joys was when one of my Triumph Register friends arranged for me to have lunch with Harry Webster. I told Harry this and I also told him I thought he and "those guys" did a helluva great job. I also asked him what car he liked the best. Ans: TR6 **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Tue Jan 15 13:19:45 2008 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 12:19:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tranny's In-Reply-To: <00b101c857ae$56b3f760$b91f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B607@mail2.sr.local> I manage it alone on the TR's by not removing the Trans from the bottom. But, as it was meant to be removed through the inside of the car. I use a hydraulic jack to keep the rear of the engine up and in position to make the level correct to align the input shaft. The only time I get near the underside is to unbolt the clutch slave and I get to that with only my head and arms underneath the car and jack stands holding the car up. I manage the starter from the upside. After removal of the air filters there is enough room for me to squeeze my hands down to that level. On the other hand when I had Detroit iron my bro and I managed removal of a Caddy hydromatic and reinstallation by sheer strength but also with the car held up by jack stands. Jack? Jack? We couldn't afford no steenking trans jack! Of course I heal quickly and have strong bones and a lung capacity the size of Big Sky Country. The worst I've suffered from car repair incidents are enough hand mashings and cuts from slipping with oil soaked tools, parts and hands. Still have all my parts though. Deano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FRED E THOMAS Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 11:39 AM To: triumphs Subject: [TR] Tranny's A few years back (8, maybe) a member of our Model A club decided he needed to replace the clutch, remember the "A" is well over a foot higher in height than any LBC, and wide open underneath (no frame in the way), so a fairly easy job, he dropped the tranny on his chest and he died there under the car, sure most of the time one person can remove a tranny, but why take such a chance, it's not worth it. "FT" From peb3 at cornell.edu Tue Jan 15 13:29:10 2008 From: peb3 at cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 15:29:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] transmissions Message-ID: All this talk of transmissions reminds me of the time my brother needed to put a clutch in his '53 Willys truck. We took a look at the size of that thing and decided even we weren't brave/stupid enough to try that in the driveway. As I recall, the shop that did the work wasn't too happy with the job, either. -- Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) Keeneyville, PA '71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jan 15 15:29:45 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 17:29:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] How Many Gearheads Does it Take to Put in a Tranny? In-Reply-To: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B606@mail2.sr.local> References: <003201c85781$e7a24bf0$6401a8c0@D3K4J541> <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B606@mail2.sr.local> Message-ID: <000001c857c6$2386ff50$210110ac@bobspc> And don't forget the need for a good back! There's lots of stuff I could lift 10 years ago that I won't go near now....without help. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paige, Dean Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 11:10 AM To: Bob Rochlin; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] How Many Gearheads Does it Take to Put in a Tranny? My goodness. I don't recall one instance in the 39 years I have owned TRs 4a & 6 that I have not done tranny (OD and not) removals and re-installations as solo projects. Mostly out of necessity. First go rounds were rough. Now though through lots of practice over the years I can do the whole job (if I have all the necessary parts) in just about 6 hours. I does help being slim, tall and having long arms and the resultant leverage advantages. However I am living proof that it can be done successfully and safely. Deano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Rochlin Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 6:21 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] How Many Gearheads Does it Take to Put in a Tranny? My experience is that it takes two gearheads to take out a transmission and two or three to put one back in depending of if it's overdrive or non overdrive. With the overdrive Transmission I like to have two gearheads under the car supporting the transmission and lining it up and one in the car maneuvering the transmission and turning the tail flange to line up the main shaft with the clutch plate. In my opinion its not worth the chance of messing up the main shaft or something else by trying to remove/replace the transmission without adequate help. Bob Rochlin '72 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1224 - Release Date: 1/14/2008 5:39 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1224 - Release Date: 1/14/2008 5:39 PM From leejohn7 at gmail.com Tue Jan 15 15:41:31 2008 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 14:41:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <002901c85779$f1af0e60$210110ac@bobspc> References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> <000901c85727$61b0b1d0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A50EE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <002901c85779$f1af0e60$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Speaking of transmissions, I am in process of a rebuild of engine on a newly acquired one-owner 65 TR4. Upon removal of the tranny cover, amazed was I to discover a quarter sized hole on the top of the casing about two inches aft of the bolt flange! Someone applied a BFH for some unknown purpose, perhaps. I'm pulling the engine and tranny together, and will for sure be back to you all for advise as I proceed. Cheers John Howard From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Jan 15 17:05:23 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 19:05:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] still control head stuck-on Message-ID: <003801c857d3$7f052a20$8894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, Thanks for telling me about the 4 steering wheel wires on my TR3. It turns out that after gentle prying of the control head, that I still have a 3/16th" width seperation between the plastic control head and the wheel. This width is visable and just behind the plastic. I'm guessing that this width is about right. As I said last night, I'd like to pull the control head and wiring out of the stator tube. However, I can only remove 2 of the 3 setscews. I thought I drilled out the third screw, but, the control head still wants to hug onto the steering wheel for some reason. If I gently tug to seperate the head from the wheel, then that seperation comes out to about 7/16th". And like I said, if I push it back like 'blowing the horn direction forward' then only 3/16" seperation exists. It's possible that with more 'slanting sideways' of the drill and 2-3 hours that I can free the control head. I've also learned that while my horn wire works as it should, the turn signals still don't work. The method used showing me that there is a problem with flashers is this: With my AA-battery test light I connect it's wire to the green common wire. And with the probe end of the light I touch both of the green-w/-red and green-w/white wires. IF, when I turn the control head's silvery-indicator far left, or far right then I expect the light to come on. However, neither one does, neither L or R. Furthermore, when I touch the stator tube while connected with any of the three greenish wires then NONE OF THEM SHOW A SHORT with the stator tube. Since none of the green-like wires show a short, but, still do not work, then I first suspect it maybe a problem down in the turn signal itself. Since the silvery indicatory seems to work fine. BTW, does it go 'on top' or 'on bottom' when held for a TR3A's driver sitting and driving? It is my guess that I'll go ahead and spend the 2-3 hours and try to pull out the control head in order to fix this turn signal (s) problem. Does anyone have a guess as to how to fix it? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From pfischer at rmi.net Tue Jan 15 18:19:03 2008 From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 19:19:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <478D5B87.70104@rmi.net> Actually, I had an agreed value policy on the Triumph mentioned below through State Farm when the fire occurred. Since they also carried our homeowners, I pointed out to the agent how lucky they were that this didn't spontaneously start while in the garage. Now I have agreed value through Farmers. We drive the TR on vacation now and then and to out-of state car shows. Took it to New Mexico on vacation. Of course, it was on the 11-mile drive to work that I had the car fire. I do think you have more options than you're talking about below. But, it's whatever each owner is comfortable with. Oh, when I had the car fire? It was Drive Your British Car Week. Ha! Pat BearTranserv at aol.com wrote: > Well, I'm kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place. The 93 > Toyota was the only thing I've made a claim on that I could base an > opinion on. > > If I insist on an "agreed value" I will be stuck with collector car > insurance issued through USAA and their policy has strick mileage and > use limits. I just don't want to go there right now as I plan on > using the TR4 to drive to work and back when the weather is appropriate. > > When the Toyota was wrecked, I searched NADA, KBB, and Ebay, and the > insurance company gave me more that any of those indicated. I guess > I'll just pay my $200 per year for the TR4 and take my chances. > > Robert > > In a message dated 1/13/2008 7:47:16 PM Mountain Standard Time, > pfischer at rmi.net writes: > > I think the issue is that your insurance company needs to be able > to value your car in case you have a serious claim. That is much > easier on a 93 Toyota than a 63 TR4. (Easier for them and easier > for you.) It's pretty simple to find a professional reference for > what your 4 is worth. Why not do that and call your agent? Say, > "If my Triumph is wrecked, what are you going to give me for it?" > This thread started because a list member was getting a quote from > his insurance company on his damaged 4 that was less than he > thought it was worth. It's not the insurance company's fault; > they're unfamiliar with the cars and the cars' values. > > I had a car fire in my beloved 250 several years back. It didn't > even damage all that much, when you think about it, but a > restoration cost $7,000. I was really, REALLY happy that I had an > agreement with my insurance company that stated the car was worth > $12,000. > > Maybe you don't have that much invested in your British cars. Your > choice of course. I just don't think that ugly surprises are what > insurance is about. > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape > > in the new year. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 15 18:26:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 17:26:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan><000901c85727$61b0b1d0$210110ac@bobspc><7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A50EE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net><002901c85779$f1af0e60$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <001d01c857de$d1db1010$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Upon removal of the tranny cover, > amazed was I to > discover a quarter sized hole on the top of the casing about > two inches aft > of the bolt flange! I had a somewhat similar hole many years ago, after the nut came off the end of the starter drive and eventually exited through the housing. Didn't seem important at the time, but it started a crack that eventually separated the flange from the rest of the bellhousing. Oops. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 15 18:37:55 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 17:37:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] transmissions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001e01c857e0$6a9f6160$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > We took a look at the > size of that thing and decided even we weren't brave/stupid enough to > try that in the driveway. Guess I was stupider back then ... I once changed the clutch in a 60 passenger White bus by myself, with it parked on a dirt road. No idea what that transmission weighed, but it had to be seriously heavy as it was cast iron; considerably larger than a TR; and in front of a huge flathead straight-8 (mounted backwards in the chassis). Rented a jack of some sort, and put down a sheet of plywood for it to slide on. Fortunately the bus was plenty tall enough to work under without a jack, as I didn't have anything even faintly resembling jackstands big enough to hold it up ! Randall From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jan 15 18:38:11 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 20:38:11 EST Subject: [TR] still control head stuck-on Message-ID: Paul, Does the "silvery indicator" return to center when the wheel is returned? (the indicator goes on top) From your post I would guess you may not know that. This is why I ask. My stator tube was broken just a little South of the control head and the broken end was buggered sufficiently so as to make it difficult to remove the control head with the little set screws out. If the stator tube is broken the "silvery indicator" will not return to center. If this is not the case, I bet that drilling out that little bugger of a set screw is only tightening it further because the drill is turning in the tightening direction. There is such a thing as a left hand drill bit and you put the drill in reverse. That you can slide it from 3/16 to 7/16 tells me that it is not the set screw that is the issue. If it were, I would think it would not move very much at all. Just my 2 Euros worth David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jan 15 18:41:07 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 20:41:07 EST Subject: [TR] transmissions Message-ID: In a message dated 1/15/2008 8:38:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: I once changed the clutch in a 60 passenger White bus by myself, OK, I have to ask. Why were you driving around alone in a 60 passenger bus with a bad clutch. (wink, wink) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From CarlSereda at aol.com Tue Jan 15 20:09:15 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 22:09:15 EST Subject: [TR] Clutch Replacement Message-ID: Hi John, I found 2 knocked-out holes in my TR4 tranny case near flywheel area when I rebuilt car first time in 1974. These 2 holes were about 25 and 50 cent sized. I formed 2 copper sheet covers and attached over cardboard gaskets with self tapping screws.. Drove aggressively as my 'daily driver' for 8 years with no problems. I've heard sometimes the starter pinion gear falls off and getted trampled against aluminum housing and breaks out a hole. Or sometimes people punch a hol e or two for clutch access to lever free a stuck friction plate from their frozen flywheel and/or pressure plate. You might be able to chamfer edges (to reduce cracks starting), patch, and forget. In 1974 I didn't chamfer holes, plus I drilled 3-4 screw-holes per patch, and see no signs of weakness. Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 removal of the tranny cover, amazed was I to discover a quarter sized hole on the top of the casing about two inches aft of the bolt flange! Someone applied a BFH for some unknown purpose, perhaps. ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jan 15 20:51:24 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 22:51:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trailing Arm Bushings Message-ID: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc> One of my winter projects includes the Goodparts' differential upgrade and Richard Good recommends installing Nylatron bushings in the trailing arms. Seeing as my bushings were over 10 years old, this was a good time to replace the bushings with his product...........but first I had to remove the old rubber bushings. I've read about how difficult and how easy it can be, so here's how I did it....and it was very easy http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1224 - Release Date: 1/14/2008 5:39 PM From leejohn7 at gmail.com Tue Jan 15 21:21:39 2008 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 20:21:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Good ideas and advise, Carl. That makes more sense than a plug of some sort that I was toying with. I'll keep you posted. John On Jan 15, 2008 7:09 PM, wrote: > Hi John, > I found 2 knocked-out holes in my TR4 tranny case near flywheel area when > I > rebuilt car first time in 1974. These 2 holes were about 25 and 50 cent > sized. > I formed 2 copper sheet covers and attached over cardboard gaskets with > self > tapping screws.. Drove aggressively as my 'daily driver' for 8 years with > no > problems. > I've heard sometimes the starter pinion gear falls off and getted trampled > against aluminum housing and breaks out a hole. Or sometimes people punch > a hol > e > or two for clutch access to lever free a stuck friction plate from their > frozen flywheel and/or pressure plate. > You might be able to chamfer edges (to reduce cracks starting), patch, and > forget. > In 1974 I didn't chamfer holes, plus I drilled 3-4 screw-holes per patch, > and > see no signs of weakness. > Regards, > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 > > removal of the tranny cover, amazed was I to > discover a quarter sized hole on the top of the casing about two inches > aft > of the bolt flange! Someone applied a BFH for some unknown purpose, > perhaps. > ************** > Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. > > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From 6parts at charter.net Tue Jan 15 22:04:53 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 00:04:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings References: <20080116040013.AC34E187A33@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <01ce01c857fd$54803590$03d30c47@alan> I've drilled a couple of holes through the rubber bushing to weaken it and then used a C-clamp and large socket to push it into. I prefer the uprated rubber bushing. Install = C-clamp, a piece of white plastic pipe a bit larger than the bushing, and board to put on the other side of the trailing arm. The pipe helps hold the bushing in place while the c-clamp is pushing it through. It does take a few tries to get it through. Once in they don't elongate, like the poly I tried. Should be good for the duration. Al www.triumphowners.com/1195 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Packard" To: "'Triumphs'" ; "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 10:59 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings >I think the Haynes manual suggests burning them out, which I did when I > first removed my original rubber bushings. The poly-u ones and then the > Goodparts ones are in two pieces, so installation and removal is a bit > easier, and no burning rubber! > Andy From JmyB at aol.com Tue Jan 15 22:13:29 2008 From: JmyB at aol.com (JmyB at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 00:13:29 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Clutch Replacement (Lee&John Howard) Message-ID: >John Howard wrote: >I'm pulling the engine and tranny together, and will for sure be back to you >all for advise as I proceed. I pulled engine and tranny together on a TR6 rebuild. I later wheeled the tranny, slung by the engine hoist, up to the engine sitting on the concrete and, as Randall said in the Gearheads/Transmission post, I just wiggled it around until it slid into place, then bolted 'em up. 'We don't need no stinkin' alignment tool.' Seemed to work fine for me. Jim Bosley, 74 TR6 **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Jan 16 03:03:48 2008 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 05:03:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Way off topic; for Seattle References: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc><7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5301@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <001c01c8580e$7fd4d460$6101a8c0@phoenix> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2D686@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Sorry for the wasted bandwidth, but I have a question that perhaps a could of listers could help with. Can anybody from the Seattle, WA area send me a list of a couple of good computer parts stores or big box that sells graphics cards? I have an engineer flying into Seattle today who needs to buy an Asus 8600 GTS silent/HDCP/256 graphics card for a cinema system as soon as he touches down at midday before driving to Monroe. Cheers, Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 16 06:22:28 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:22:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: <392932.41545.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc> <392932.41545.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000d01c85842$daf0f750$210110ac@bobspc> Todd, That's the method Richard Good recommends in the directions that come with his Nylatron bushing kit. I didn't have a piece of threaded rod that was long enough to span both bushings so I modified it do one side at a time. No Home Depot run required! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Todd Bermudez [mailto:red_tr250 at yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 7:52 AM To: Bob Danielson; 'Triumphs'; '6pack' Cc: acekraut11 at aol.com; 'Rick Patton'; 'Richard Good' Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings We had a tech session a while back & one guy (Greg Donegan) brought a long piece of threaded rod with washers & nuts on each end. The threaded rod diameter must be just smaller than the inner diameter of the bushing holes. The rod must be long enough to span both bushings plus a little extra of course. Slide the rod through both bushings. Put a nut & small washer on one end(the end that you're drawing thru). On the other end have a larger washer & nut...one that will not fit thru a bushing sleeve. Tighten the nut & behold the magic...it will pull the other bushing right thru. No drilling, cutting, or burning. Simply reverse the process for the other bushing. I was just amazed seeing this after having fought with c-clamps & pieces of PVC. Cheers, Todd --- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > One of my winter projects includes the Goodparts' > differential upgrade and > Richard Good recommends installing Nylatron bushings in the trailing > arms. > Seeing as my bushings were over 10 years old, this was a good time to > replace the bushings with his product...........but first I had to > remove the old rubber bushings. I've read about how difficult and how > easy it can be, so here's how I did it....and it was very easy > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm > > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.4/1227 - Release Date: 1/16/2008 1:40 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.4/1227 - Release Date: 1/16/2008 1:40 AM From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Jan 16 08:22:45 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 15:22:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny alignment - use of dowels In-Reply-To: <000101c857a3$60022c20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <000101c857a3$60022c20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: When I was racing we had a pair of elliptical spacers for centering the input shaft of the transmission to the center line of the crank. We would hang the bell housing on the engine dowels and insert the beveled edge of these spacers into the clearance between them. Then we mounted a dial indicator to the crank and indexed the tip to the opening for the transmission. Then we would rotate the crank and read the dial indicator adjusting the elliptical spacers until we got zero run out on the dial. Then we welded the spacers in place. Zeroing the centerline of you drive line is in fact very important. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_012008 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 16 09:45:06 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:45:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny alignment - use of dowels In-Reply-To: References: <000101c857a3$60022c20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <008701c8585f$26953830$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> tom white wrote : > When I was racing we had a pair of elliptical spacers for centering the input shaft of the > transmission to the center line of the crank. We would hang the bell housing on the engine > dowels and insert the beveled edge of these spacers into the clearance between them. > Then we mounted a dial indicator to the crank and indexed the tip to the opening for the transmission. > Then we would rotate the crank and read the dial indicator adjusting the elliptical spacers > until we got zero run out on the dial. Then we welded the spacers in place. That's interesting, Tom. Do I understand correctly that you left the dowels in place during this operation ? Randall From acs25m at swbell.net Wed Jan 16 12:34:27 2008 From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 11:34:27 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] flywheel bolts Message-ID: <579971.6091.qm@web81610.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi all, What is the lists thoughts on weather or not to use thread locker on the flywheel bolts? John Maneke TR250 CD3416 From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 16 13:52:03 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 15:52:03 EST Subject: [TR] flywheel bolts Message-ID: In a message dated 1/16/2008 1:34:45 PM Central Standard Time, acs25m at swbell.net writes: > Hi all, > What is the lists thoughts on weather or not to use thread locker on > the flywheel bolts? > Can't hurt. It will make disassembly a bit more difficult but if you have an impact wrench ti should be no problem. But I wouldn't forgo the locking plates. Dave From dorpaul at negia.net Wed Jan 16 16:43:54 2008 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 18:43:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] seperating the control head and wires? Message-ID: <005801c85899$a93dcf60$8894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> After a couple of hours MORE nudging the control head and stator tube they DID come out of the steering column: so far, so good. Now I've got to take the control head (and wiring?) off and out of the stator tube. The manual seems to say that seperating these are as easy as pie. "These components are a slide fit just below the control head". How does one seperate the head from the tube??? After 10 minutes, I gave up trying! It must have been the darknessesses fault. The reason I wish to withdraw it is so that I can wrap the wires with a small amount of electrical tape protruding from the stator tube and near the steering box. However, now the blinkers and horn seem to work just fine! Is this another corrollary of the Paul Principle? THAT AFTER SPENDING 8 HOURS TRYING TO FIX SOMETHING, IT STARTS WORKING AGAIN! Thanks Doug, string has been used to enable me to pull the wiring back thru the tube when it goes back togather! good idea From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 16 16:58:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 15:58:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] seperating the control head and wires? In-Reply-To: <005801c85899$a93dcf60$8894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <005801c85899$a93dcf60$8894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <015001c8589b$a4e9cca0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > How does one seperate the head from the tube??? Paul, the manual is right, the head should just slide off from the long stator tube (the one that runs from the steering wheel all the way to the steering box). There is a shorter section of tube that stays attached to the control head, though. Of course, the wires also have to slide through the stator tube in order to get it away from the control head. > However, now the blinkers and horn seem to > work just fine! Not at all uncommon with wires that are broken inside the insulation from excessive flexing. But they haven't magically healed, they are just touching at the moment. You already know there is something wrong with them, so fix it before putting the mess back together. Randall From mmeany at ne.rr.com Wed Jan 16 17:20:08 2008 From: mmeany at ne.rr.com (Mark Meany) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 19:20:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT-6, Spitfire Owner Question Message-ID: <00f301c8589e$b9fafd50$6601a8c0@meansterq9coh8> All, Would any of you GT-6, Spitfire owners know whether Panasports marked... Size: 6JJ X 15 Offset: 15 Holes, Bolt.C: 4-95.25 ...would fit your vehicles? I'm certain they won't work with TR2-4A & have been advised the 15mm offset precludes their use on TR7-8's. The same gentleman who advised me of the latter thought the wheels might fit on GT-6's or Spitfires (as far as the hole pattern & offset). Mark Meany Keene, NH '65 TR4A IRS O From ZoboHerald at aol.com Wed Jan 16 18:06:00 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 20:06:00 EST Subject: [TR] GT-6, Spitfire Owner Question Message-ID: In a message dated 1/16/2008 7:20:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, mmeany at ne.rr.com writes: Size: 6JJ X 15 Offset: 15 Holes, Bolt.C: 4-95.25 Mark, that last dimension works out to 3.75", which is the PCD for a Spitfire, GT6, Herald, TR7, etc. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 16 18:51:46 2008 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 17:51:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings Message-ID: <90707.50578.qm@web37515.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Todd- An even easier way is to stick a tapered drift into the bushing hole, then give it a smart rap with a medium BFH. The bushings pop right out. I've done this on at least 25 cars so I think I can safely say its a tried and proven method. I've never bothered to put stock type bushings back in, so no need to use a threaded rod there either. The new urethane bushings go right in with a gentle rap from the same medium BFH. Cheers- Chad -----Original Message----- From: Todd Bermudez [mailto:red_tr250 at yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 7:52 AM To: Bob Danielson; 'Triumphs'; '6pack' Cc: acekraut11 at aol.com; 'Rick Patton'; 'Richard Good' Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings We had a tech session a while back & one guy (Greg Donegan) brought a long piece of threaded rod with washers & nuts on each end. The threaded rod diameter must be just smaller than the inner diameter of the bushing holes. The rod must be long enough to span both bushings plus a little extra of course. Slide the rod through both bushings. Put a nut & small washer on one end(the end that you're drawing thru). On the other end have a larger washer & nut...one that will not fit thru a bushing sleeve. Tighten the nut & behold the magic...it will pull the other bushing right thru. No drilling, cutting, or burning. Simply reverse the process for the other bushing. I was just amazed seeing this after having fought with c-clamps & pieces of PVC. Cheers, Todd From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jan 16 19:14:24 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 21:14:24 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings Message-ID: In a message dated 1/16/2008 8:52:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com writes: An even easier way is to stick a tapered drift into the bushing hole, then give it a smart rap with a medium BFH. I take issue with this statement. A BFH is a BFH. This is a situation where size matters. A Medium would, of course, be an MFH. A Small, would, by definition, be a SFH. There is no such tool as a Medium BFH. You wouldn't pull into Burger King and order a Small Whopper, now, would you? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From mlang99 at comcast.net Wed Jan 16 20:10:34 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 19:10:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <478EC72A.3060403@comcast.net> Applying that same logic, what about a BFH Junior? There is a Whopper Junior! Mike DLylis at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 1/16/2008 8:52:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com writes: > > An even easier way is to stick a tapered drift into the bushing hole, then > give it a smart rap with a medium BFH. > > > > > I take issue with this statement. A BFH is a BFH. This is a situation > where size matters. A Medium would, of course, be an MFH. A Small, would, by > definition, be a SFH. There is no such tool as a Medium BFH. > You wouldn't pull into Burger King and order a Small Whopper, now, would you? > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mlang99 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From MATTHEW.T.BENJAMIN at saic.com Wed Jan 16 20:45:44 2008 From: MATTHEW.T.BENJAMIN at saic.com (Benjamin, Matthew T.) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 22:45:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] classic car center? Message-ID: <8F08DCF4FD93CB478EEF75C60B7DE2E204E4B9ED@0294-its-exmp01.us.saic.com> Hello, Has anybody on the list ever taken a car to Classic Car Center in Fredericksburg, VA? This is their website, http://www.classiccarcenter.net/services.html It's nearby me, I'm in Warrenton and I'd like to take my TR-6 there to get the interior replaced and don't trust myself to do an excellent job. Can anybody recommend another shop in the Nova area that they prefer? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Matt Benjamin From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 16 22:07:41 2008 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 21:07:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <112477.75382.qm@web37502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> OK....I'll issue a correction. Replace all "medium BFH" with just "MFH". Cheers- Chad --- DLylis at aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 1/16/2008 8:52:06 P.M. Eastern > Standard Time, > triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com writes: > > An even easier way is to stick a tapered drift into > the bushing hole, then > give it a smart rap with a medium BFH. > > > > > I take issue with this statement. A BFH is a BFH. > This is a situation > where size matters. A Medium would, of course, be > an MFH. A Small, would, by > definition, be a SFH. There is no such tool as a > Medium BFH. > You wouldn't pull into Burger King and order a Small > Whopper, now, would you? > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways > to stay in shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From Lbc.Resto at comcast.net Thu Jan 17 05:16:08 2008 From: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net (Ian) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 07:16:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] BritishCarForum.com Message-ID: <000301c85902$c1c503a0$0602a8c0@RAS> What's happened to BritishCarForum.com? -- Ian 62 TR4 From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 17 05:36:44 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 07:36:44 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings Message-ID: Accepted terminology! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Thu Jan 17 05:46:38 2008 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 13:46:38 +0100 Subject: [TR] BritishCarForum.com In-Reply-To: <000301c85902$c1c503a0$0602a8c0@RAS> References: <000301c85902$c1c503a0$0602a8c0@RAS> Message-ID: <000f01c85907$03e595c0$0bb0c140$@com> Just checked it and it works... Did you experience probs? Eric http://brits-n-pieces.com -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Ian Gesendet: Donnerstag, 17. Januar 2008 13:16 An: triumphs at autox.team.net Betreff: [TR] BritishCarForum.com What's happened to BritishCarForum.com? -- Ian 62 TR4 From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Jan 17 06:21:40 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 07:21:40 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] classic car center? Message-ID: <8430522.2628151200576100176.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> Ben, Craftsman Upholstery Eric Sejd 3180-B3 Draper Dr. Fairfax, VA 22031 (703) 278-8550 I used them to install Wilton Wool carpet from TRF in my 72 TR6. I have also sent them a few references to them and everyone was happy with the price and quality of their work. Good luck. Craig H. Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 >From: "Benjamin, Matthew T." >Date: 2008/01/16 Wed PM 09:45:44 CST >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: [TR] classic car center? >Hello, > > > >Has anybody on the list ever taken a car to Classic Car Center in >Fredericksburg, VA? This is their website, >http://www.classiccarcenter.net/services.html > > > >It's nearby me, I'm in Warrenton and I'd like to take my TR-6 there to >get the interior replaced and don't trust myself to do an excellent job. >Can anybody recommend another shop in the Nova area that they prefer? >Any help would be greatly appreciated. > > > >Thanks! > > > >Matt Benjamin >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net > >http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 17 07:56:57 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 14:56:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny alignment - use of dowels In-Reply-To: <008701c8585f$26953830$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <000101c857a3$60022c20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <008701c8585f$26953830$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: > That's interesting, Tom. Do I understand correctly that you left the dowels > in place during this operation ? Yes, the whole technique set the engine drive line to zero based on centering the bell housing on the engine dowels. I should note that before centering the bell housing the machine shop indexed the engine dowels to the center line of the crank. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail.-get your "fix". http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 17 08:05:18 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:05:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] flywheel bolts In-Reply-To: <579971.6091.qm@web81610.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <579971.6091.qm@web81610.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Absolutely, use Locktite blue for the flywheel bolts. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008 From eoot at citlink.net Thu Jan 17 08:14:05 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 10:14:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] BritishCarForum.com References: <000301c85902$c1c503a0$0602a8c0@RAS> Message-ID: <001501c8591b$9a64de70$670a0a0a@MyComputski> Alive and well ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ian" To: Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 7:16 AM Subject: [TR] BritishCarForum.com > What's happened to BritishCarForum.com? > > -- > Ian > 62 TR4 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 17 08:35:44 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:35:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] seperating the control head and wires? In-Reply-To: <005801c85899$a93dcf60$8894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <005801c85899$a93dcf60$8894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Why not use shrink wrap instead of electrical tape. You will get a beeter fit into the tube and it will last longer. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!! http://biggestloser.msn.com/ From Lbc.Resto at comcast.net Thu Jan 17 09:27:11 2008 From: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net (Ian) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 11:27:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] BritishCarForum.com In-Reply-To: <000f01c85907$03e595c0$0bb0c140$@com> References: <000301c85902$c1c503a0$0602a8c0@RAS> <000f01c85907$03e595c0$0bb0c140$@com> Message-ID: <005001c85925$d0c6a340$0602a8c0@RAS> I didn't realize that this had been stuck in my e-mail outbox for 2 days and only went out this morning when I fired up the laptop again. The other day I repeatedly typed in the (correct) address and it took me to one of those pages that list multiple related links (car insurance etc.) when a web site goes inactive. A few hours later I noticed that all was back to normal. Sorry for the confusion. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) [mailto:lists at brits-n-pieces.com] Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 7:47 AM To: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] BritishCarForum.com Just checked it and it works... Did you experience probs? Eric http://brits-n-pieces.com -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Ian Gesendet: Donnerstag, 17. Januar 2008 13:16 An: triumphs at autox.team.net Betreff: [TR] BritishCarForum.com What's happened to BritishCarForum.com? -- Ian 62 TR4 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 17 10:11:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 09:11:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: <112477.75382.qm@web37502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <112477.75382.qm@web37502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <055601c8592c$0590ade0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > OK....I'll issue a correction. Replace all "medium > BFH" with just "MFH". But then that begs the question of just how big it must be to be considered "big". Does 3 lb qualify ? What about 10 ? 20 ? I can't even lift a 40, let alone swing it, but they do exist. After a fine dinner of medium rare beef and jumbo shrimp; I see nothing wrong with a medium BFH. Randall From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 17 11:56:22 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 18:56:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] GT-6, Spitfire Owner Question Message-ID: <011720081856.6899.478FA4D6000D48E200001AF322007347489D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Mark Meany" > All, > > Would any of you GT-6, Spitfire owners know whether Panasports marked... > > Size: 6JJ X 15 > Offset: 15 > Holes, Bolt.C: 4-95.25 > > ...would fit your vehicles? I'm certain they won't work with TR2-4A Bolt circle is wrong. >& have > been advised the 15mm offset precludes their use on TR7-8's. The same > gentleman who advised me of the latter thought the wheels might fit on > GT-6's or Spitfires (as far as the hole pattern & offset). Dunno about offset, but a bolt circle of 95.25mm would be the same as 3.75 inches and would be correct for GT6, Spitfire, Elan and Europa. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 17 11:59:05 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 18:59:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings Message-ID: <011720081859.10400.478FA5790007CBB3000028A022007347489D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: DLylis at aol.com > You wouldn't pull into Burger King and order a Small Whopper, now, would you? If you did, they probably would give you a Whopper Junior instead of an argument. :-) -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 17 12:15:33 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 12:15:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT-6, Spitfire Owner Question References: <011720081856.6899.478FA4D6000D48E200001AF322007347489D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <004301c8593d$554ac620$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I am sending this to thi list for clarification. I have been communicating off list with Mark and here is what I have told him: I have a set of those same wheels on my Monster Spit (Tiny Tim). The bolt pattern matches but the wheels are designed for a TR7/8 and the center holes are too small to fit on the rear brakes of a Spit/GT6. The hub is larger in diameter than the wheel center. This is correctable in 2 ways. 1. Use a 1/4" spacer to allow the wheels to bottom out on the spacer before it reaches contact with the hub. 2. Chamfer the inside of the wheels enough to solve the problem. (I did option 1) Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Mark Meany" ; "TriumphTeam" Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 11:56 AM Subject: Re: [TR] GT-6, Spitfire Owner Question > From: "Mark Meany" > > All, > > > > Would any of you GT-6, Spitfire owners know whether Panasports marked... > > > > Size: 6JJ X 15 > > Offset: 15 > > Holes, Bolt.C: 4-95.25 > > > > ...would fit your vehicles? I'm certain they won't work with TR2-4A > > > Bolt circle is wrong. > > > >& have > > been advised the 15mm offset precludes their use on TR7-8's. The same > > gentleman who advised me of the latter thought the wheels might fit on > > GT-6's or Spitfires (as far as the hole pattern & offset). > > Dunno about offset, but a bolt circle of 95.25mm would be the same as 3.75 inches and would be correct for GT6, Spitfire, Elan and Europa. From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Jan 17 14:27:08 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 14:27:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? Message-ID: I was searching my Moss catalog last night looking for another little piece of something & I noticed that early TR3s had their brake light integrated in with the license plate light. It struck me I could swap out the current "license plate only light" for one of these and put one more brake light in the back. Based on the Moss diagram it looks like a clean swap that could quickly be changed for my occasional trip to the local car show. Does anyone know of a reason it could not be swapped back & forth? BTW the combination of my nice new heavier Dan Masters wire & Ron Francis brighter light bulbs really seem to make my running lights brighter. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Jan 17 15:22:16 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:22:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? In-Reply-To: <286006.77007.qm@web57809.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <286006.77007.qm@web57809.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5B2817C7-04C7-4C1A-B6C6-8474192AFD55@cox.net> Ken I had also thought of that approach as well but I am not sure the way Dan Masters systems wires the flashers if I could make it work. I may have to email dan to see if it can be done without a lot of rewiring! John On 17 Jan, 2008, at 2:52 PM, Kent Shrack wrote: > A good non-original up-grade for the TR3, is to change out the > behive bases in the rear (single filament bulbs) with a couple of > behive bases as used on the front (double filament bulbs) and to > hook up "brake lights" on the bee hive lights on the back. You then > have 4 brake lights on the back. I have not done this to my TR3 but > it will be the next think I do. It's simple, and looks original > until you use the brakes. > > Kent Shrack 1960 TR3a, rhd TS78563 O > > 60TR3A <60TR3A at cox.net> wrote: > I was searching my Moss catalog last night looking for another little > piece of something & I noticed that early TR3s had their brake light > integrated in with the license plate light. It struck me I could swap > out the current "license plate only light" for one of these and put > one more brake light in the back. > > Based on the Moss diagram it looks like a clean swap that could > quickly be changed for my occasional trip to the local car show. > Does anyone know of a reason it could not be swapped back & forth? > > BTW the combination of my nice new heavier Dan Masters wire & Ron > Francis brighter light bulbs really seem to make my running lights > brighter. > > John > > John A. Wise > Glendale, AZ > > 1960 Triumph TR3A > Commission No: TS80422L > http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ > http://www.triumphowners.com/876 > > 1977 Porsche 911S > http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as kentshrack at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! > Search. John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jan 17 16:04:53 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:04:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] seperating the control head and wires? In-Reply-To: References: <005801c85899$a93dcf60$8894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <418DBD78569642EDBA15E8F1F8969756@GeoPC> This place sells it in 4' lengths (and lots of other stuff too). http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G1257 Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: "Paul Dorsey" ; "list Triumph" Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 8:35 AM Subject: Re: [TR] seperating the control head and wires? > Why not use shrink wrap instead of electrical tape. You will get a beeter > fit > into the tube and it will last longer. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jan 17 16:10:50 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:10:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've always been of the opinion that Standard invented the Third Brake Light... they just didn't come up with the first and second brake lights until later. The swap you mention should be easy enough though I intend to use the method Ken mentions with dual filamant beehives for more illumination. May make turn signals hard to see when braking at the same time but I can live with that. Meanwhile, I use a magnetic tow lamp from WallyMart on the rear deck of each TR. Butt-ugly but removes in seconds. I also use a relay in the brake light circuit (someone here suggested that) that keeps the load from all those light from going thru that finicky/sensitve pressure switch. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "60TR3A" <60TR3A at cox.net> To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 2:27 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? >I was searching my Moss catalog last night looking for another little > piece of something & I noticed that early TR3s had their brake light > integrated in with the license plate light. It struck me I could swap > out the current "license plate only light" for one of these and put > one more brake light in the back. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 17 16:43:42 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:43:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? In-Reply-To: <5B2817C7-04C7-4C1A-B6C6-8474192AFD55@cox.net> References: <286006.77007.qm@web57809.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <5B2817C7-04C7-4C1A-B6C6-8474192AFD55@cox.net> Message-ID: <05c401c85962$cb5bd780$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I had also thought of that approach as well but I am not sure > the way > Dan Masters systems wires the flashers if I could make it > work. Should be absolutely no problem. The turn signal wiring actually doesn't change at all; the only change is to add a second filament in the turn signal bulbs/lamps and to run a new wire from one of the brake lights to both of the new filaments. I did do it on my TR3A. In order to keep the turn signals visible with the brake lights on, I used the dimmer of the two filaments for the brake lights (which makes them basically invisible when the turn signals are on). In retrospect, I think a better way would be to add a pair of relays instead of changing out the turn holders. (Or, you could use one of the 3-wire to 2-wire trailer converters, which are basically two relays in the same box.) That would allow a single bright filament to function as both turn signal and brake light, just as it does on many American cars. Plus if you like, you could power the outer brake lights from the same relays, making them flash for turn signals. Only downside I can see is that it would take a new wire to the rear (carrying power to be switched to the turn/brake bulbs), and you might need to change the flasher if it is a load-sensitive type. But this also supplies the brake light relay that Geo mentioned, which IMO is also a good idea. Not long after I started trying to make my brake lights brighter, the original brake light switch burned out and then two replacements each failed within a year or so. I dealt with the problem by converting to a mechanically-operated brake light switch (ala late TR4-4A) that was rated for a high-center light, but the relays could be hidden better than my switch was. The other thing I might do when I have a TR3 to play with again is to put some of those ultra-bright LEDs (the ones that warn not to look directly at them) into the turn housings. Randall From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Jan 17 16:50:54 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:50:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770801171447t5616fad4k5e0872cff9dc225a@mail.gmail.com> References: <6fa72a770801171447t5616fad4k5e0872cff9dc225a@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: > I got a lot of good replies when I was considering placement for my > 3rd brakelight on the TR4. > > One item that meant a lot to me - Third brake lights should be > mounted high.... Yes, I read the original research from the 60s (one of previous lives was spent as a professor), the 3rd brake light should be high! But in our LBCs there is really no place high enough to be near t eye level of the guy behind you - particularly if she is riding in an SUV. I am just trying to get one more thing to light up in the rear end when I am driving to work at 5:30AM. I am still thinking about converting the rear turn signals into running light & turn signals - which would be an easy change. Stopping is what I am more concerned about. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Jan 17 17:05:37 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 00:05:37 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? References: <6fa72a770801171447t5616fad4k5e0872cff9dc225a@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00d401c85965$db6caac0$0201a8c0@Bevan> John Wise wrote: But in > our LBCs there is really no place high enough to be near t eye level > of the guy behind you - particularly if she is riding in an SUV. John, a friend here in the UK has been shunted twice in his Spitfire and has come up with a neat solution, though I'm not totally sure it's fully legal. It definitely works! As we often drive top-up in the UK, Peter has rigged a fog lamp on a hinged bracket just inside the rear window. The lens has been painted red and the bulb is a 100 watt halogen for off-road use. The whole is tilted slightly upwards to ensure widespread spread at windscreen level about 60 feet behind the Spit. It's not too unlike looking at a (red) aircraft landing light at very close quarters! Idea? Jonmac From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Jan 17 17:05:38 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 19:05:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? In-Reply-To: References: <6fa72a770801171447t5616fad4k5e0872cff9dc225a@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CA277CFD9EFA34-1750-3269@FWM-M29.sysops.aol.com> John, There is a way that you could make yourself more visible.? Of course there are companies who sell strips of LED lights nowadays.? You could always run a set of these either high or low, wire it with connectors so you could disconnect it when you wanted to go back to stock.? You could even hook up a third brake light pulsar that would flash the third brake light 3 or 4 times each time you touched the brakes.? It would certainly serve the purpose of making you more noticeable. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: 60TR3A <60TR3A at cox.net> To: Chris Simonsen ; Triumph car discussion Sports Sent: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 6:50 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? > I got a lot of good replies when I was considering placement for my > 3rd brakelight on the TR4. > > One item that meant a lot to me - Third brake lights should be > mounted high.... Yes, I read the original research from the 60s (one of previous lives was spent as a professor), the 3rd brake light should be high! But in our LBCs there is really no place high enough to be near t eye level of the guy behind you - particularly if she is riding in an SUV. I am just trying to get one more thing to light up in the rear end when I am driving to work at 5:30AM. I am still thinking about converting the rear turn signals into running light & turn signals - which would be an easy change. Stopping is what I am more concerned about. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 17 17:09:28 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:09:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? In-Reply-To: References: <6fa72a770801171447t5616fad4k5e0872cff9dc225a@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <05c501c85966$66115f90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > But in our LBCs there is really no place high enough to be near t eye level Something I've thought about but never got around to trying ... build a line of high intensity red LEDs (with clear housings) into a quarter-round bar of Lucite that would fit just under the lip of the windshield on a TR3/A. It would have to be directional enough to stay out of the driver's eyes (which might be impossible), but would be high enough I think and reasonably unobtrusive when it wasn't lit. Likely you could also find a way to make it removable for shows (tho I never worried about showing the car). Obviously it also wouldn't be effective with the top up, but that's a separate problem Another potential solution might be to mount a pair of whips (like CB antennas) to the rear bumperettes, and put super-bright LEDs on the ends. I don't know if that would get the message through or not, but if you could make the LEDs bright enough, it might persuade them to stop even when they can't see a car. Strobing them would help both with brightness and visual impact, I think, since no doubt the whips will be whipping if you've just jammed on the brakes. The folks that go off-roading on the dunes around here use flags on whips to make themselves visible (which is where I got the idea). Randall From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 17 17:09:36 2008 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 19:09:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Need New Tires for TR4-A References: Message-ID: I need to replace the tires on my TR4-A - current casings have good tread, but way out of date. I looked at Kumho 165/80TR15. I've heard good things and like the price, but they seem to be on eternal backorder. I have Dayton 15x4.5 - 60 spoke wires - car is pretty much stock ('cept for wheels) Does anybody have any suggestions for a good quality reasonably priced tire for the car? 165x15's seem to be a hard find. Thanks, Glenn From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Jan 17 17:52:43 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 17:52:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? In-Reply-To: <05c401c85962$cb5bd780$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <286006.77007.qm@web57809.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <5B2817C7-04C7-4C1A-B6C6-8474192AFD55@cox.net> <05c401c85962$cb5bd780$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: On 17 Jan, 2008, at 4:43 PM, Randall wrote: >> I had also thought of that approach as well but I am not sure >> the way >> Dan Masters systems wires the flashers if I could make it >> work. > > Should be absolutely no problem. The turn signal wiring actually > doesn't > change at all; the only change is to add a second filament in the turn > signal bulbs/lamps and to run a new wire from one of the brake > lights to > both of the new filaments. > > I did do it on my TR3A. In order to keep the turn signals visible > with the > brake lights on, I used the dimmer of the two filaments for the > brake lights > (which makes them basically invisible when the turn signals are on). Ahhhhhh!!! > Plus if you like, you could power the outer brake lights from the same > relays, making them flash for turn signals. Again Ahhhhh > > The other thing I might do when I have a TR3 to play with again is > to put > some of those ultra-bright LEDs (the ones that warn not to look > directly at > them) into the turn housings. I am still thinking about that as well. I was even looking at LED light & they now have some that turn 90 degrees to the socket so they might work in our brake lights - see http://superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html John John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Jan 17 17:55:53 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 17:55:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? In-Reply-To: <00d401c85965$db6caac0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <6fa72a770801171447t5616fad4k5e0872cff9dc225a@mail.gmail.com> <00d401c85965$db6caac0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <60D31FD2-BA19-4133-9A34-84E17105AEED@cox.net> That won't work here in Phoenix. My top is up maybe 10 days a year?? although I often think about putting it up in the summer just for shade!!! John On 17 Jan, 2008, at 5:05 PM, John Macartney wrote: > John Wise wrote: > But in >> our LBCs there is really no place high enough to be near t eye level >> of the guy behind you - particularly if she is riding in an SUV. > > John, a friend here in the UK has been shunted twice in his Spitfire > and has come up with a neat solution, though I'm not totally sure > it's fully legal. It definitely works! As we often drive top-up in > the UK, Peter has rigged a fog lamp on a hinged bracket just inside > the rear window. The lens has been painted red and the bulb is a 100 > watt halogen for off-road use. The whole is tilted slightly upwards > to ensure widespread spread at windscreen level about 60 feet behind > the Spit. It's not too unlike looking at a (red) aircraft landing > light at very close quarters! Idea? > > Jonmac John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 17 17:59:00 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 19:59:00 EST Subject: [TR] Need New Tires for TR4-A Message-ID: Try Vredesteins. They make a classic profile series. Tire rack carries them, I think. They are not as inexpensive as the Kumhos, but then again they are available. I think that the 185s are $110 - 120, at least the last time I bought them. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jan 17 18:01:55 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 18:01:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Need New Tires for TR4-A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I had no problem sourcing the Kuhmos locally, I think TireRack also had them. They seemed the best of the afforadbale choices which included (if I recall correctly) NanKing (?) from Big O and the Arizonian at Discount tire. I think the Arizonian is a private label so the question might be who really makes them. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Owen" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 5:09 PM Subject: [TR] Need New Tires for TR4-A >I need to replace the tires on my TR4-A - current casings have good tread, > but way out of date. From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 17 18:41:07 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 20:41:07 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? Message-ID: In a message dated 1/17/2008 7:09:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: high intensity red LEDs (with clear housings) I bought what you are describing at the Stowe car show last summer and have not tested them out. They are directionals as well as stop lights. When I saw them I thought I might make a bracket that attaches to the tonneau/top fasteners, but that is still a little way off. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Jan 17 18:54:14 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 17:54:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That is precisely what we did on Casper ... it draws a frown from the purists, but we like the added safety factor more. The last I heard the Ron Francis bulbs were no longer available, if there has been a change we would love to know ... Make the switch ... it looks cool ... 8-) >I was searching my Moss catalog last night looking for another little >piece of something & I noticed that early TR3s had their brake light >integrated in with the license plate light. It struck me I could swap >out the current "license plate only light" for one of these and put >one more brake light in the back. > >Based on the Moss diagram it looks like a clean swap that could >quickly be changed for my occasional trip to the local car show. >Does anyone know of a reason it could not be swapped back & forth? > >BTW the combination of my nice new heavier Dan Masters wire & Ron >Francis brighter light bulbs really seem to make my running lights >brighter. -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Jan 17 19:00:45 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 19:00:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009E4481-7FE6-4061-A0A4-DEB07263757C@cox.net> I just received mine 2 weeks ago. I ordered them from: http://www.ronfrancis.com/lighting.htm On 17 Jan, 2008, at 6:54 PM, Bill & AnnaBelle wrote: > That is precisely what we did on Casper ... it draws a frown from > the purists, but we like the added safety factor more. The last > I heard the Ron Francis bulbs were no longer available, if there > has been a change we would love to know ... > > Make the switch ... it looks cool ... 8-) >> I was searching my Moss catalog last night looking for another >> little piece of something & I noticed that early TR3s had their >> brake light integrated in with the license plate light. It struck >> me I could swap out the current "license plate only light" for one >> of these and put one more brake light in the back. >> >> Based on the Moss diagram it looks like a clean swap that could >> quickly be changed for my occasional trip to the local car show. >> Does anyone know of a reason it could not be swapped back & forth? >> >> BTW the combination of my nice new heavier Dan Masters wire & Ron >> Francis brighter light bulbs really seem to make my running lights >> brighter. > > > -- > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 TS16765L > aka > Casper > > AnnaBelle Pugh > 1970 TR6 CC59179L > aka > Rosey > Wallace, CA John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 17 19:03:21 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 18:03:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] Need New Tires for TR4-A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <05d801c85976$4d36a920$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I had no problem sourcing the Kuhmos locally, How recently was that ? TireRack has shown the 165-15 size on backorder for a long time now, as has TireSavings.com. A quick check on-line didn't turn up anyone else selling that size, even on eBay. Kind of looks like Kumho has quit supplying them, even though they are still listed on the Kumho website. Randall From ZoboHerald at aol.com Thu Jan 17 19:39:47 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 21:39:47 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? Message-ID: In a message dated 1/17/2008 4:27:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 60TR3A at cox.net writes: ... I noticed that early TR3s had their brake light integrated in with the license plate light. It struck me I could swap out the current "license plate only light" for one of these and put one more brake light in the back.... Does anyone know of a reason it could not be swapped back & forth? ==AM== I don't have anything handy to look at (and the Spare Parts Catalogue doesn't help), but I wonder if using the older number lamp/brake lamp unit might require some slight modifications to the apron to accommodate the older lamp? I suspect any such modifications would be hidden by either lamp, so it's probably not a big deal. Electrically it should be no problem. I've given some thought to doing this with the Herald. That's not an original idea of mine; it was done years ago on a Sports 6 that I know of. (It's actually easier on the Herald, since the number plate lamp has its own plinth that can be modified and/or swapped back and forth complete.) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Thu Jan 17 20:52:03 2008 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Patricia Donnelly) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 19:52:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] Classic Motorsports Article on Supercharged TR6 Message-ID: <47902263.9090104@san.rr.com> Interesting article in CM that I got in today's mail. Performance increased going 0-60 MPH from 10.3 seconds (stock) to 6.3 seconds (supercharged). Who was the owner of the lucky TR6? and when will superchargers be available for the 4 cylinder TR? Johnnie in San Diego Go Chargers! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 17 23:59:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 22:59:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Classic Motorsports Article on Supercharged TR6 In-Reply-To: <47902263.9090104@san.rr.com> Message-ID: <20080118065940.XWDZ24798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > and when will > superchargers be available for the 4 cylinder TR? A bit over 50 years ago (assuming of course you mean TR2-3 rather than TR7) ... but not likely ever again. Moss has said they might do, if they feel there is enough market to make it profitable, but it seems unlikely to me. Not enough cars remaining in the hands of those interested in modifying them. Still, it's not totally out of reach of the DIY. Not sure if he's still on the list, but we did have someone who rolled their own for a TR6. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 18 00:22:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 23:22:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080118072230.YIFF24798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > Based on the Moss diagram it looks like a clean swap that could > quickly be changed for my occasional trip to the local car show. > Does anyone know of a reason it could not be swapped back & forth? Got home and had a chance to check cars & parts ... To install the early center brake light from a TR2-3 on a later TR3/A/B, you'll have to add a largish hole centered behind the lamp. I didn't measure, but it's at least 3/4", maybe a bit larger. The early lamp takes a full-size 1157-equivalent bulb, and the holder for the base protrudes into the trunk space. But once you've added the hole, I believe it would be possible to switch back and forth, as the later lamp will cover the early hole (and the early lamp will also cover the smaller off-center hole used for wires with the later lamp). The stud spacing & diameter are the same. Randall From banc8004 at comcast.net Fri Jan 18 04:11:13 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 06:11:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] 3rd brake light Message-ID: <7F784CD1-2928-4D0E-B4B6-4E1D712D3B93@comcast.net> I have been thinking about rescuing from a U-Pull-It a strip of third- light LEDs like those on a Sebring Convertible. My plan is to mount the light on my luggage rack, either by attaching it to the rear bar on the luggage rack, or in a bar (my rack is aluminium tube) with the LED tips exposed - the latter would be more work, but tidier. Its not as high as Randall's suggestion, but top up/down won't matter. For such a light, cars with a roll bar have a terrific mounting point. Here's the light I will try to use: http://www.sebringclub.net/gallery/chmslrepair/CHMSL31 Brian TR4 From: "Randall" Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A low mounted 3rd brake light?? > But in our LBCs there is really no place high enough to be near t eye level Something I've thought about but never got around to trying ... build a line of high intensity red LEDs (with clear housings) into a quarter-round bar of Lucite that would fit just under the lip of the windshield on a TR3/A. It would have to be directional enough to stay out of the driver's eyes (which might be impossible), but would be high enough I think and reasonably unobtrusive when it wasn't lit. Likely you could also find a way to make it removable for shows (tho I never worried about showing the car). Obviously it also wouldn't be effective with the top up, but that's a separate problem From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 18 04:31:18 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 06:31:18 EST Subject: [TR] 3rd brake light Message-ID: Check out the Brake Lighter. J&L Enterprises, Ellington, CT. 06029. (How primitive. I can't find a website for them). 860 916 3582. I bought this thing at the Stowe Car Show this past summer and it is very thin and 12" long. Does the third brake light and directionals. Is made for the classis car application. It is a very neat setup and I think it was $45 for the setup with mounting and wires, etc. NFI David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Fri Jan 18 12:08:47 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 14:08:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] 3rd brake light References: <7F784CD1-2928-4D0E-B4B6-4E1D712D3B93@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002201c85a05$8faac950$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Take a look here at where a neighbor put his in an MG Midget. http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BrianKraus.htm Very clean location installed here. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Jones" To: Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 6:11 AM Subject: [TR] 3rd brake light >I have been thinking about rescuing from a U-Pull-It a strip of third- > light LEDs like those on a Sebring Convertible. > My plan is to mount the light on my luggage rack, either by attaching > it to the rear bar on the luggage rack, or in > a bar (my rack is aluminium tube) with the LED tips exposed - the > latter would be more work, but tidier. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 18 14:14:19 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 13:14:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] 3rd brake light In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003001c85a17$1735ab40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Check out the Brake Lighter. J&L Enterprises, Ellington, CT. > 06029. (How > primitive. I can't find a website for them). 860 916 3582. Try http://www.jandlenterprise.com Randall From dkspence at telus.net Fri Jan 18 14:21:00 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 14:21:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Super/Turbo charging a TR 4 pot? (was Classic Motorsports Article on Supercharged TR6) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7CC59390-7B3D-4B9A-A171-DBB94361A5E0@telus.net> What about the possibility of using a turbocharger & intercooler from say a Mazda 626GT or Ford Probe. Both used a a 2.2L 4 Mazda sidewinder engine with turbo and intercooler . The capacity seems about right. Would the TR engine take the added stresses? On 18-Jan-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: Re: [TR] Classic Motorsports Article on Supercharged TR6 > > >> and when will >> superchargers be available for the 4 cylinder TR? > > A bit over 50 years ago (assuming of course you mean TR2-3 rather > than TR7) > ... but not likely ever again. Moss has said they might do, if > they feel > there is enough market to make it profitable, but it seems unlikely > to me. > Not enough cars remaining in the hands of those interested in > modifying > them. > > Still, it's not totally out of reach of the DIY. Not sure if he's > still on > the list, but we did have someone who rolled their own for a TR6. > > Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 18 15:57:43 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 14:57:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] Super/Turbo charging a TR 4 pot? (was Classic Motorsports Article on Supercharged TR6) In-Reply-To: <7CC59390-7B3D-4B9A-A171-DBB94361A5E0@telus.net> References: <7CC59390-7B3D-4B9A-A171-DBB94361A5E0@telus.net> Message-ID: <003901c85a25$890e6190$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > What about the possibility of using a turbocharger & intercooler > from say a Mazda 626GT or Ford Probe. Both used a a 2.2L 4 Mazda > sidewinder engine with turbo and intercooler . The capacity seems > about right. Would the TR engine take the added stresses? I believe so, as long as you keep the rpm down. Biggest problem IMO will be to keep it from detonating/knocking. Both the increased pressure and the increased intake temperature tend to cause knock, and we pretty much already use all the octane available with pump gas (unlike the stock 'emissions' TR6 which has substantially lower compression). The intercooler would help (by lowering temperature), but it's still going to be hotter than naturally aspirated. Turbos also suffer from throttle lag; basically the time it takes the turbo to spin up once you open the throttle and the engine starts making more exhaust gas. There are ways to alleviate it, but not eliminate it entirely. I was interested in turbocharging my TR3A until my wife bought a turbocharged minivan. Had good power once it got going but significant lag problems, IMO. Very un-sportscar like ... I used to imagine Scotty saying Aye Aye Kyeptain before things would start happening. IMO a supercharger is the only way to go on a TR, in spite of poorer overall efficiency. Randall From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Jan 18 16:20:33 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 18:20:33 EST Subject: [TR] Classic Motorsports Article on Supercharged TR6 Message-ID: In a message dated 1/18/2008 12:00:01 AM Mountain Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > and when will > superchargers be available for the 4 cylinder TR? A bit over 50 years ago (assuming of course you mean TR2-3 rather than TR7) ... but not likely ever again. Moss has said they might do, if they feel there is enough market to make it profitable I'd think the MGB supercharge would be easily modified for the TR4 as the displacement is similar...no? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From jat1127 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 18 17:26:46 2008 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 19:26:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] flywheel bolts Message-ID: Listers, Recently there have been some posts about locktite and flywheel bolts. Use it. Use RED. The only issue on trying to remove them is to twist a lot harder or warm the bolt with a torch. Easy. I also suggest that everyone have a look at the web site of ARP. It is ARP-bolts.com. Lots of info. The "text" books from Carrol Smith are also very good. CHEERS TO ALL John John Taylor Greenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 18 17:32:22 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 16:32:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] Classic Motorsports Article on Supercharged TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004b01c85a32$c18850a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I'd think the MGB supercharge would be easily modified for > the TR4 as the > displacement is similar...no? Finding a suitable blower isn't the hard part; it's getting it hooked up to the motor in a reliable fashion that's a pain. Especially if you want to include some sort of valve so the blower isn't sucking power even when it's not doing anything useful (what I believe Accel used to call a "priority valve"). Blowing into the carbs isn't such a good idea, as they don't like changes in air density (and a blower is all about increasing air density). So now you have to link the blower outlet directly to the intake manifold, and a carb to the blower intake (ignoring the priority valve that needs to connect in both places). Unless of course you convert to fuel injection at the same time (which is probably a good idea, but a whole nother ball of worms as well). Blower sizing also depends on how much boost you plan to run, and what ratio you set up between the blower & the crankshaft. As I recall, the MGB is only 1800cc, so if you keep the same drive ratio, it's blower will make less boost on a 1991cc TR3, less on a 2138 TR4, and even less if you've put in the 87mm liners. Of course you can overdrive the blower ... Randall From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 18 17:33:04 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 19:33:04 EST Subject: [TR] flywheel bolts Message-ID: Maybe I am missing something. Are you guys assembling the flywheel without lock tabs? I don't understand what Locktite is going to do for a properly torqued bolt with a properly installed lock tab. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Jan 18 18:19:02 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 18:19:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Need New Tires for TR4-A In-Reply-To: <05d801c85976$4d36a920$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <05d801c85976$4d36a920$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <273418590C7942CD8239B3045DBE72FE@GeoPC> June 4, 2007. Drat -- my string continues as I bought a set of Michelins and they were promptly discontinued. Then Dunlops followed by Coopers each in turn discontinued. I assume we are looking for the Kuhmos in 165/80x15 (PowerStar) and not 165x15. The latter ('metric' tire) was NLA but the 165/80 measures out real close to the metric, just a skosh taller. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 7:03 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Need New Tires for TR4-A >> I had no problem sourcing the Kuhmos locally, > > How recently was that ? From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Fri Jan 18 20:11:37 2008 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 22:11:37 EST Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A Message-ID: All, The Kumho tyres currently available from The Tire Rack are 165/80R15. This size is not as tall nor as wide as the 165R15 tyres we are used to. I put them on MG-TD's and MGA's, maybe on a TR3 but think they are a bit wimpy for a TR4A and not up to the power of a Healey or MGC. Vredesteins in a 165R15 size are available from British Wire Wheel and a good choice. Of course Coker has 165R15 XZX Michelins for around $140. each. I would not recommend using 185R15 tyres on wheels that are 4.0" wide (stock TR4A size). Tyres that size should be mounted on 5.0" wheels, or wider. You'll also find the 185R15's to be quite a bit taller than 165's, messing up the ride height and speedo accuracy. If your (non-stock) wheels are 5.0" wide or wider, the 185/70R15 fits and looks good, without being greater in diameter that 165R15's. Truth be told, there just isn't much out there in the 165R15 size anymore. George Haynes ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From acs25m at swbell.net Fri Jan 18 21:14:48 2008 From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 20:14:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] flywheel bolts Message-ID: <517511.64241.qm@web81603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> To All, I was the originator of the original question about using locktite. The reason that I asked was that there wasn't any locking tabs or lock washers in place when the flywheel was removed, just four bolts. I have looked in the Bentley Manual, the Haynes manual, TRF's red book, Moss's catalog and Victoria British's catalog and none of them show anything but four bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft. No other locking mechanisms are shown. I just wondered if it would be prudent to use locktite in this situation and if so Red or Blue. This is for a rebuild of a TR250 motor. John Maneke CD3416 DLylis at aol.com wrote: Maybe I am missing something. Are you guys assembling the flywheel without lock tabs? I don't understand what Locktite is going to do for a properly torqued bolt with a properly installed lock tab. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs Check MailCompose TG: UI: SFI: SFV: --> var url1 = "http://us.f816.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Search?Find=1&y5beta=yes&B=1_p=bottom"; From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jan 18 22:21:34 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 22:21:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] flywheel bolts In-Reply-To: <517511.64241.qm@web81603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080119052136.12FF518764B@autox.team.net> I am looking at the Moss catalog Fall/Winter 2007. On page #8 item #95 is a Tab Washer that goes under two bolts and then is bent up to retain them. The part number is: 837-560 @$1.90ea. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of acs25m at swbell.net Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 9:15 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] flywheel bolts To All, I was the originator of the original question about using locktite. The reason that I asked was that there wasn't any locking tabs or lock washers in place when the flywheel was removed, just four bolts. I have looked in the Bentley Manual, the Haynes manual, TRF's red book, Moss's catalog and Victoria British's catalog and none of them show anything but four bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft. No other locking mechanisms are shown. I just wondered if it would be prudent to use locktite in this situation and if so Red or Blue. This is for a rebuild of a TR250 motor. John Maneke CD3416 DLylis at aol.com wrote: Maybe I am missing something. Are you guys assembling the flywheel without lock tabs? I don't understand what Locktite is going to do for a properly torqued bolt with a properly installed lock tab. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs Check MailCompose TG: UI: SFI: SFV: --> var url1 = "http://us.f816.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Search?Find=1&y5beta=yes&B=1_p=bottom"; This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.6/1231 - Release Date: 1/18/2008 11:55 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.6/1231 - Release Date: 1/18/2008 11:55 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 18 22:29:28 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 21:29:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] flywheel bolts In-Reply-To: <517511.64241.qm@web81603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080119052928.GROQ4230.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > I just wondered if it would be > prudent to use locktite in this situation and if so Red or > Blue. This is for a rebuild of a TR250 motor. John, my understanding is that the use of locktabs on the earlier motors was discontinued later (during the TR4 run IIRC); and some builders (including Kas Kastner) have suggested that not using locktabs is better (of course making sure the bolts aren't too long if they were designed to be used with tabs). Using Loctite (without the tabs) may not be necessary, but my attitude is that it certainly can't hurt and I'd really hate for one of those bolts to come loose. I used red. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 18 22:49:54 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 21:49:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Super/Turbo charging a TR 4 pot? (was Classic Motorsports Article on Supercharged TR6) In-Reply-To: <019901c85a38$0c0c24d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <20080119054954.HFRL4230.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Randall, with the greatest respect, I can't entirely agree > with your comments about turbo lag. No worries, John. But if it took major automakers 20 years to deal with the problem, what chance does the DIY have of dealing with it ? Amusing story : Never having heard of the GTti, I Googled it ... the very first link showed someone talking about replacing the clutch twice because "turbo lag means you really have to ride the clutch ..." http://www.carsurvey.org/review_19409.html I suppose I should have kept reading the literature as I'd really like to know how they eliminated the problem (although one of the secrets may be those tiny engines, which also use tiny turbochargers with less inertia to overcome). > But whether a turbo on a TR6 is a viable fitting, I would > have my doubts. Well, Moss seems to have done a respectable job with the TR6 supercharger; and a turbocharger is just a particular type of supercharger. In theory a turbo is more efficient, because it gets at least some of it's energy by recovering waste heat; and uses a more efficient (but high speed) turbine as a compressor. But translating that into improved performance still looks tricky to me. And someday I promise to try out that TR3 supercharger sitting in my garage ... Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jan 19 06:12:49 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 08:12:49 EST Subject: [TR] flywheel bolts Message-ID: See Randall's response. I was on a 3 motor and obviously was in the wrong place. (blush) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sat Jan 19 06:45:25 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 07:45:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR 2002 Photos Wanted Message-ID: <380-220081619134525640@earthlink.net> As the new Historian for the Minnesota Triumphs, I am attempting to gather photos from the 2002 VTR Convention. You might remember the convention was held at Treasure Island Hotel and Casino in Red Wing Minnesota. While our long past Historian did an excellent job of making a photo album when we hosted the 1998 VTR, no one in recent years has put a photo album together covering the 2002 VTR event. Almost all the photos I have are from the Concours & Car Show. At our most recent club meeting it was suggested I look outside the club to obtain more pictures. Here is my plea. Dose anyone who attended the 2002 VTR have any photos from the event? I am looking for anything from behind the scenes to action from each day of the event. It is my intent to have coverage for each of the four days from those days in the Summer of 2002. I can accept donations of photos, pictures on loan to be scanned and returned, and digital photos sent by e-mail. Please let me know if you have anything. Even if you cant' dig them up right away I would like to know if they exist. Greg Gelhar ggelhar at earthlink.net From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Jan 19 06:52:05 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 08:52:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Super/Turbo charging a TR 4 pot? (was Classic Motorsports Article on Supercharged TR6) In-Reply-To: <20080119054954.HFRL4230.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> References: <019901c85a38$0c0c24d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> <20080119054954.HFRL4230.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: > Well, Moss seems to have done a respectable job with the TR6 supercharger;> and a turbocharger is just a particular type of supercharger. In theory a> turbo is more efficient, because it gets at least some of it's energy by> recovering waste heat; and uses a more efficient (but high speed) turbine as> a compressor. But translating that into improved performance still looks> tricky to me. Randall is correct as usual. Turbocharger is a contraction of turbosupercharger, the official name. Turbo is the combination form of turbine, a device that is spun by fluid, exhaust gasses in this case. The gasses enter the turbine hot and under pressure. They expand in the turbine and leave the turbine cooler and under less pressure. The pressure and heat energy become mechanical energy when the turbine spins. The turbine spins the compressor, unlike a mechanical supercharger, in which a gear train or belt turns the compressor. Another difference between turbochargers and superchargers is that superchargers compress the intake air after it is mixed with the fuel, and turbochargers compress the air before it is mixed with fuel. On airplanes anyway. I have never read or heard why this is done or if the opposite could be done. Seems to me that superchargers on fuel-injected car engines would compress the air before it is mixed with fuel, but what do I know? Does anyone know? Curious, John H. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Jan 19 07:20:38 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 14:20:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] flywheel bolts In-Reply-To: <517511.64241.qm@web81603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <517511.64241.qm@web81603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Blue Locktite and make sure you have star washers on the bolts. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 19 07:55:58 2008 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 06:55:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] tr6 for sale Message-ID: <932803.93664.qm@web30410.mail.mud.yahoo.com> i have a 76 tr6 for sale in the ny area have been rebuilding it and no longer have the time or money to finish the project looking to recoupe most of my investment frame is good looking for 5500 have done alot of work already write for details if anyone is interested .not looking to go for the ebay route thanks ralph from new york local pick up --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. From patton at suscom-maine.net Sat Jan 19 08:31:42 2008 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 10:31:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Super/Turbo charging a TR 4 pot? (was Classic Motorsports Article on Supercharged TR6) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > Behalf Of John Herrera snip > Seems to me that superchargers on fuel-injected car engines would > compress the air before it is mixed with fuel, but what do I know? > > Does anyone know? > > Curious, > > John H. Hello John, I have supercharged and fuel injected my TR6 and it compresses the air before adding fuel. It's certainly been a challenge but the results are a 0-60 time of 5 seconds with no lag at all. There's not much more that I can do to the original engine and keep it in one piece. Right now it is distributorless full sequential multi-port fuel injected supercharged and intercooled. Runs about 8 to 8.5 ps of boost and flywheel horsepower is near 200. A unique feature is that the throttle is between the blower and the intake and that allows me to run without the blower. The blower is an Eaton M62 set up for use in a Mercedes C2 series with an electric clutch just like an air conditioner. With a flick of a switch it goes from mild to wild. You can see the set up at http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/superengine.htm Rick Patton 1975 TR6sci Brunswick, Maine http://pattonmachine.com/ From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Jan 19 08:55:47 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 08:55:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <02373C11C9AC4C6488AA5598E61009A1@GeoPC> I don't have the Kuhmos 165/80x15 handy but my recollection was that I measured them and they were slightly taller than whatever 165x15 I compared them to (Michelin or Cooper). Also, I'm under the impression that a TR4A would have 4.5" wheels stock. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 8:11 PM Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A > The Kumho tyres currently available from The Tire Rack are 165/80R15. > This > size is not as tall nor as wide as the 165R15 tyres we are used to.... > > I would not recommend using 185R15 tyres on wheels that are 4.0" wide > (stock > TR4A size). From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Sat Jan 19 09:11:39 2008 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 11:11:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A References: Message-ID: Thanks for all the responses. It looks like the only reasonable options for a 4.5" wheel are Michelin XZX and Vredesteins. It looks like waiting for the Khumos to get off backorder is like leaving the porch light on for Jimmh Hoffa. I like the XZX's (that's what I have now) but someting in the neighborhood of $700 for new tires is too rich for my blood. Vredesteins it is (unless someone has last minute revelations) Glenn > All, > The Kumho tyres currently available from The Tire Rack are 165/80R15. > This > size is not as tall nor as wide as the 165R15 tyres we are used to. I > put > them on MG-TD's and MGA's, maybe on a TR3 but think they are a bit wimpy > for a > TR4A and not up to the power of a Healey or MGC. Vredesteins in a 165R15 > size > are available from British Wire Wheel and a good choice. Of course Coker > has 165R15 XZX Michelins for around $140. each. > I would not recommend using 185R15 tyres on wheels that are 4.0" wide > (stock > TR4A size). Tyres that size should be mounted on 5.0" wheels, or wider. > You'll also find the 185R15's to be quite a bit taller than 165's, > messing up > the ride height and speedo accuracy. If your (non-stock) wheels are 5.0" > wide or wider, the 185/70R15 fits and looks good, without being greater in > diameter that 165R15's. > Truth be told, there just isn't much out there in the 165R15 size anymore. > George Haynes From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 19 09:17:24 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 09:17:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A In-Reply-To: <02373C11C9AC4C6488AA5598E61009A1@GeoPC> Message-ID: <20080119161732.764D8187674@autox.team.net> I found some Nankang 165/R15 last summer for my TR3, put about 1,000 miles on them before the first snow. Phil E. is running the Kuhmo 165-80/-15 on his TR4 and says they do the job perfectly. Maybe he can chime in to this thread. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo & Kathleen Hahn Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 8:56 AM To: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A I don't have the Kuhmos 165/80x15 handy but my recollection was that I measured them and they were slightly taller than whatever 165x15 I compared them to (Michelin or Cooper). Also, I'm under the impression that a TR4A would have 4.5" wheels stock. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 8:11 PM Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A > The Kumho tyres currently available from The Tire Rack are 165/80R15. > This > size is not as tall nor as wide as the 165R15 tyres we are used to.... > > I would not recommend using 185R15 tyres on wheels that are 4.0" wide > (stock > TR4A size). This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1232 - Release Date: 1/18/2008 7:32 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1232 - Release Date: 1/18/2008 7:32 PM From steven at newellboys.com Sat Jan 19 10:27:32 2008 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 10:27:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Need New Tires for TR4-A In-Reply-To: <273418590C7942CD8239B3045DBE72FE@GeoPC> References: <05d801c85976$4d36a920$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <273418590C7942CD8239B3045DBE72FE@GeoPC> Message-ID: <47923304.8050907@newellboys.com> Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: >June 4, 2007. > >Drat -- my string continues as I bought a set of Michelins and they were >promptly discontinued. Then Dunlops followed by Coopers each in turn >discontinued. > >I assume we are looking for the Kuhmos in 165/80x15 (PowerStar) and not >165x15. The latter ('metric' tire) was NLA but the 165/80 measures out real >close to the metric, just a skosh taller. > Geo, for goodness sake, please don't buy yourself a set of Vredesteins! I'm counting on those tires. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 wearing, in turn, Michelins, Dunlops, Coopers, now Vredesteins... From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sat Jan 19 10:40:57 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 12:40:57 EST Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A Message-ID: In a message dated 1/19/08 11:25:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, mgowen55 at hotmail.com writes: << It looks like waiting for the Khumos to get off backorder is like leaving t he porch light on for Jimmh Hoffa. >> But they are only $ 35 each as opposed to the $ 55 each actual tires sitting on the shelf at my local tire store. ;+) ( there is a back story here but I won't go into that as it has been resolved ) 6 months ago I probably got the last Khumos that were at the local tire store. The next 2 I got were made by " Sonar " from Singapore or similar. Trea d design has 2 or 3 grooves making it look sort of like a bias tire tread. I'd have to check the sticker but I'm pretty sure they are distributed my TBC Corp. Online searching alleges they are made my Nanking. These tires are in daily use on Mom and Dads 1980 SAAB 900 and seem to be OK so far. ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From ray at raysmg.com Sat Jan 19 10:59:03 2008 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 10:59:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A Message-ID: <20080119105903.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.eec684c524.wbe@email.secureserver.net> I've been running the Vreds (recommended by, and purchased from, Coker) for a year on my TR3...no complaints. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 19 12:12:10 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 11:12:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] Super/Turbo charging a TR 4 pot? (was Classic Motorsports Article on Supercharged TR6) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080119191209.GJQO3079.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> From: John Herrera > Another difference between turbochargers and superchargers is that > superchargers compress the intake air after it is mixed with the fuel, > and turbochargers compress the air before it is mixed with fuel. On airplanes anyway. I've seen it done both ways on cars; in fact somewhere I have a book talking about the advantages and disadvantages of using turbos in "blow through" or "suck through" carburetor configurations. One problem with configuring a turbo for "suck through" is that it must have seals capable of handling the vacuum created when the throttle plates are closed (like at shifts & cruise conditions). Apparently most turbos don't have such seals. And when they do have the seals, the seals are troublesome. But that book was written a long time ago, so that may no longer be true today. Probably a different book, but I've also seen a photo of a Paxton belt-driven supercharger (which used a turbine compressor) blowing into a carb. > Seems to me that superchargers on fuel-injected car engines would compress the air before > it is mixed with fuel, but what do I know? Certainly for port or direct injection. But maybe not for TBI ? Randall From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat Jan 19 12:37:37 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 14:37:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Supercharging a TR4 Message-ID: <07AA2FC6-590D-41DA-8182-43E238FEA0B8@comcast.net> Close to my home in SE Pennsylvania, a company called Judson once made superchargers for VW beetles, and, among other cars, TR4s. You occasionally see one for sale on ebay. Expect to pay up to $3,000 for a complete set up. This website mostly addresses VWs, but you'll find links to TR stuff. http://www.vwjudsonregister.org.uk/ Brian Jones TR4 1963 Valley Forge PA From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Sat Jan 19 13:38:18 2008 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 15:38:18 EST Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A Message-ID: George, You may be right about the 165/80R15 Kumho's being a bit taller, but they have narrower tread width than "normal" 165-section tyres. And yes, if the TR4A has 60-spoke wire wheels, they will be 4.5" wide. Steel wheels and 48-spoke wire wheels were still only 4.0" wide. George ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Jan 19 14:32:14 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:32:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Supercharging a TR4 In-Reply-To: <07AA2FC6-590D-41DA-8182-43E238FEA0B8@comcast.net> References: <07AA2FC6-590D-41DA-8182-43E238FEA0B8@comcast.net> Message-ID: > Close to my home in SE Pennsylvania, a company called Judson once made > superchargers for VW beetles, and, among other cars, TR4s.> > You occasionally see one for sale on ebay. Expect to pay up to $3,000 > for a complete set up.> > This website mostly addresses VWs, but you'll find links to TR stuff.> > http://www.vwjudsonregister.org.uk/> > Brian Jones> TR4 1963> Valley Forge PA My friend has a Judson supercharger set up for a TR3 that he bought on e-bay quite a few years ago. It's beautiful; all crackle black and polished aluminum. He took it to a shop for installation on his TR3, but they refused to install the supercharger without first going through the engine innards. I think they were right to do so. John H. From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Jan 19 15:18:00 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 17:18:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Supercharging TR4 Message-ID: List, Here is a interesting article describing installing a Judson supercharger on a TR4A that I came across awhile back. http://www.v8triumph.com/JS.htm There were several problems encountered such as severe overheating, stresses to the water pump bearings due to the fact that the supercharger was driven off the front pulley. Not insurmountable problems but problems just the same. The website is an interesting read.. Seems the authors solution was to replace the 4-cylinder with a Rover V8. That is linked to the same site and is also an interesting read. Enjoy the read and remember, for every cold day there is a warm one coming up! Trying to stay warm in Cincinnati, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A (I WILL be getting back to it this spring!!) http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From pethier at comcast.net Sat Jan 19 15:22:19 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 22:22:19 +0000 Subject: [TR] Supercharging a TR4 Message-ID: <011920082222.19195.4792781B0008CBA400004AFB22007601809D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: John Herrera > My friend has a Judson supercharger set up for a TR3 that he bought on e-bay > quite a few years ago. It's beautiful; all crackle black and polished > aluminum. He took it to a shop for installation on his TR3, but they refused > to install the supercharger without first going through the engine innards. I > think they were right to do so. The fastest way to find the weakest part of an engine is to supercharge it. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From jat1127 at hotmail.com Sat Jan 19 15:32:13 2008 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 17:32:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Flywheel bolts and lock washers Message-ID: Listers, PLEASE lock washers of any kind, spring/wave/star, will not keep flywheel bolts in place. Please be safe! In fact use red on the clutch cover bolts. A clutch the comes adrift can cause a lot of damage and your ankles will be close by. Yes, the original tab washer will help keep a bolt that is loose from falling out but it will not keep it tight. The only way to get a bolt tight is to torque it to spec and use RED locktite. Locktite, red, in this case will help keep a bolt from be affected by vibration. It works why not use it. John Taylor Greenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Jan 19 17:11:06 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:11:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Box Rebuild Message-ID: <4792919A.2040605@comcast.net> I decided that I would tackle the task of rebuilding a steering box for my TR3 this weekend. I have a total of 3 boxes. This includes the original long shaft box that was in the car, a spare split shaft box, and a split shaft box that is in my TR3A parts car. I first disassembled the original long shaft box and found that the bearing races and the ends of the worm had severe brineling and is unusable. I then disassembled the spare split shaft box and found that the worm was all beat up. It looks like the peg had skipped right over the top of the worm many times. I finally pulled the box out of the parts car. It was still full of oil and looks to be in pretty good condition. Is it worth trying to remove the good worm from the split shaft box and move it to the long shaft one or should I just bite the bullet and convert the car to the split shaft column assembly? The car I am restoring is TS11544. I am not too paranoid about originality although I am trying to keep all of the exterior panels and trim appropriate for the vehicle. The split shaft assembly does have some advantages regarding ease of service. Thanks, Mike From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Jan 19 17:54:34 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 19:54:34 EST Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A Message-ID: Looks as if Coker Tire has more options than I thought they did, including a P165R15 Lexington for $62.00. Not bad. Or you can go wide- or narrow-whitewall -- the latter appropriate on a TR4A -- for a good bit more. And you get a few more choices if you search on 165SR15 or on Triumph TR4A. Anyway, try --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 19 18:00:04 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 17:00:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Box Rebuild In-Reply-To: <4792919A.2040605@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080120010004.NZHC24798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > Is it worth trying to remove the good worm from the split > shaft box and move it to the long shaft one or should I just > bite the bullet and convert the car to the split shaft column > assembly? I've been debating the same question myself, purely on the ease of service issue. If you do decide to convert to the split column, don't forget you'll need to add the brackets that support the column above and below the split. The one below the split is welded to the frame, and ISTR the upper one uses nuts welded to the body that earlier cars don't have. My current thinking is that, if the original box is serviceable, I'll keep the solid column. As much as I hate removing the front apron, the box shouldn't need rebuilding more than once every 10 years or so. Randall From 6parts at charter.net Sat Jan 19 18:06:40 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 20:06:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 shifter Message-ID: <005001c85b00$b75863d0$03d30c47@alan> I finished day 3 of engine + transmission swap out. Good thing I don't charge by the hour. Put a new clutch in donar engine. I noticed that the shifter is a lot looser in the trans out of the wreck, meaning it has up and down play that my shifter doesn't have. I will be removing the top cover of that trans to give me more room on the install of the engine & transmission. I still have the exhaust pipes in there and the shifter from my car scraped coming out with the engine. Is there anything I should be looking for, as to be causing the up and down play in the shifter? I don't see anything in the parts book that would allow for adjustment. thanks Al www.triumphowners.com/624 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jan 19 18:11:28 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 20:11:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] U-Joint Removal Message-ID: <000601c85b01$64d47800$210110ac@bobspc> Ok, so while I've got the drive train out I figured I'd do some routine maintenance and replace all the u-joints. Lord knows if they've ever been replaced. As per a suggestion from a fellow lister as well as the directions in Haynes, they should "pop" right out with some hammer tapping on the yoke. Well, that technique seems to work on some but not all. I've tried both a regular hammer (yes I know I shouldn't be striking metal with a hammer due to risk of chipping....BTW...the boys on Mythbusters dispelled that myth) and a deadblow hammer, striking the yoke collar and all around with increasing force. But some seem to be just frozen in place. I even got one u-joint out but the cap is solidly stuck. Before I lock them in drill press and attack with drill power, does anyone have any suggestions? Would heat help? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1232 - Release Date: 1/18/2008 7:32 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 19 18:22:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 17:22:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] U-Joint Removal In-Reply-To: <000601c85b01$64d47800$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080120012237.MLAC4230.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > As per a suggestion from > a fellow lister as well as the directions in Haynes, they > should "pop" right out with some hammer tapping on the yoke. It does work for me after seeing John Kipping demonstrate it at VTR/SP, but I wouldn't call it "tapping" nor use a "regular" hammer. It's more like some pretty stout blows with a BFH (I used a 2.5 lb mini-sledge). All things considered, I find it easier to use the hydraulic press (now that I have one). Before I got the press, I used the vice jaws. Or this technique should work too : http://tinyurl.com/3ataeh Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 19 18:26:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 17:26:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 shifter In-Reply-To: <005001c85b00$b75863d0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <20080120012628.MONG4230.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Is there anything I should be looking for, as to be causing > the up and down play in the shifter? Should be a big spring in there that holds the shifter ball firmly into the socket of the top cover. Also a big curved piece that slides against the underside of the cap. Items 5 & 6 at http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32768 Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Jan 19 18:28:31 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 17:28:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] U-Joint Removal In-Reply-To: <000601c85b01$64d47800$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000601c85b01$64d47800$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <4792A3BF.70501@comcast.net> Bob, I have always pressed them in and out using a pair of sockets. Choose a small enough socket to pass through the hole in the yoke. Place it on the side of the that you are pushing from, and a large enough socket on the opposite side to receive the cup that you are pushing out. Clamp the whole assembly in a large vice and press it apart. For tool purists, it is not exactly the intended use for sockets, but it has always worked well for me. Mike Bob Danielson wrote: > Ok, so while I've got the drive train out I figured I'd do some routine > maintenance and replace all the u-joints. Lord knows if they've ever been > replaced. As per a suggestion from a fellow lister as well as the directions > in Haynes, they should "pop" right out with some hammer tapping on the yoke. > Well, that technique seems to work on some but not all. I've tried both a > regular hammer (yes I know I shouldn't be striking metal with a hammer due > to risk of chipping....BTW...the boys on Mythbusters dispelled that myth) > and a deadblow hammer, striking the yoke collar and all around with > increasing force. But some seem to be just frozen in place. I even got one > u-joint out but the cap is solidly stuck. Before I lock them in drill press > and attack with drill power, does anyone have any suggestions? Would heat > help? > > Thanks > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Jan 19 20:28:21 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 22:28:21 EST Subject: [TR] U-Joint Removal Message-ID: In a message dated 1/19/2008 8:23:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: It does work for me after seeing John Kipping demonstrate it at VTR/SP, but I wouldn't call it "tapping" nor use a "regular" hammer. It's more like some pretty stout blows with a BFH (I used a 2.5 lb mini-sledge). All things considered, I find it easier to use the hydraulic press (now that I have one). Before I got the press, I used the vice jaws. Or this technique should work too : http://tinyurl.com/3ataeh Or this: --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jan 19 20:53:41 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 22:53:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Aftermarket thrust washers In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0801191930v69fbead5x62d258d1e0038262@mail.gmail.com> References: <49f668fe0801191930v69fbead5x62d258d1e0038262@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <003501c85b18$0e4a1d20$210110ac@bobspc> John, I also found this source (http://www.britishcarweek.org/tr6.html) I have no experience with him but thought I'd share the link. I love it when the TR enthusiasts come up with their own solutions. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John North Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:31 PM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket thrust washers Look at the difference between the aftermarket variety and original equipment (AE) brand. The AE one has maybe three or four times the thickness of bronze. The AE brand came from BPNW, the aftermarket from TRF... Both standard size. http://picasaweb.google.com/johncnorth/ThrustWashers John North 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1232 - Release Date: 1/18/2008 7:32 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1232 - Release Date: 1/18/2008 7:32 PM From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Jan 20 01:56:15 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 08:56:15 -0000 Subject: [TR] Updates to website for Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 Message-ID: <02b601c85b42$513b7780$0201a8c0@Bevan> The website has expanded again: 1. There is now an opportunity for readers to send in queries. 2. A more detailed map of the overall route showing current stops has been provided. This is a .pdf file and allows you to zoom in onto the route and move around on it to see it in a little more detail 3. The Route page is now divided up into 12 sectors. You'll be able to read about each sector and where we're going. We've used up every WEEKEND except one, in the period 4 July to 30 Sept 2009 but virtually all of the WEEKDAY EVENINGS are still open for informal visits to clubs that are based near the route. 4. Photographs of the donated UK spec Spitfire will be uploaded next weekend. 5. Revised Powerpoint presentations are in progress and will soon be available for free download John Macartney Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jan 20 06:14:53 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 08:14:53 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Box Rebuild Message-ID: Mike, I have just gone through this exercise and can offer a neophytes opinion. Randall is by far the greater authority as he helped me out with issues through the process. 1. If you have original usable parts, use them. This is what I found with reproduction parts. The worm is supposed to present slight resistance in steering at straight ahead and loosen as you go right and left. The repro worm is slightly cone shaped. That is not correct although I was able to get it to perform well through very detailed box adustment. 2. The peg is supposed to be a press fit in the rocker shaft. (both repro parts) I initially put it in and it fell out. I have resolved that as well. 3. When I had the old worm removed from the shaft it came off with no damage, so had it not been chipped, it would have been reusable should I have been facing a situation as you describe. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From fishplate at charter.net Sun Jan 20 06:19:05 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 08:19:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] U-Joint Removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20080120131904.HQWL14098.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 10:28 PM 1/19/2008, ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 1/19/2008 8:23:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, >tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > >It does work for me after seeing John Kipping demonstrate it at VTR/SP, but >I wouldn't call it "tapping" nor use a "regular" hammer. It's more like >some pretty stout blows with a BFH (I used a 2.5 lb mini-sledge). Like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDX17xf9grA Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/ Athens, Georgia #354 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1233 - Release Date: 1/19/2008 6:37 PM From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jan 20 06:28:16 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 08:28:16 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] U-Joint Removal Message-ID: Bob, I have not looked at the links offered, but my technique is primitive, but very effective. (check the sizes as I am working from memory) You will need a 1 1/16 socket, a 3/4 socket, a cold chisel of medium to large proportions, and a 1/8 drift, and a BFH. 1 1/16 goes on the floor (or sturdy bench), 3/4 pounds the caps though until spider hits the other side. Flip it over and put the cold chisel against the spider and drive it back the other way. Drive the drift through the bearings on one side until you hit the back side of the cap, and hit until it pops out. Repeat. Nothing will be usable other than the remaining yolk, shaft, etc. but then again, its worn. I reinstall the new one with the reverse of this technique with a lighter hand and an SFH rather than a BFH and I can do the whole thing in about ten minutes. I gotta tell you. I tried the tap the yolk thing and figured I was not going to live long enough to get it out that way. Maybe my technique needs a little more finesse. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sun Jan 20 07:06:13 2008 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 09:06:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 distributor rotor size? Message-ID: <47935555.4090207@blacksburg.net> I have a pair of 40795 distributors for my TR4, each with different rotors. One measures 1/2" across the cord of the arm which carries the spark (the swipe arc) and the side opposite the arm is straight (parallel to the distributor shaft). The other measures 7/8" across the arm and has an overhang (analogous to a counterweight) on the opposite side. Which one is right for that distributor? TIA jim From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Jan 20 08:07:39 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 15:07:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] U-Joint Removal In-Reply-To: <000601c85b01$64d47800$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000601c85b01$64d47800$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Put the yoke in a vise with a socket the same diameter as the u-joint cap between the cap and the vise jaw. IF both caps are in place put another socket the diameter of the ypke housing on the other side. Then crank the vise closed and press out the cap. Sometimes you may need to use a cheater bar to crank the vise on a frozen cap. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail.-get your "fix". http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jan 20 08:08:51 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 10:08:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Updates to website for Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 In-Reply-To: <02b601c85b42$513b7780$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <02b601c85b42$513b7780$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <1246DE67C0D7427FA1FE95ECFD791055@CarlPC> Could someone from Central Florida Triumph Register contact me off-list. I have a question for you. Carl Musson Tampa ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: ; "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph Trans-America 2009" ; Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 3:56 AM Subject: [TR] Updates to website for Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 > The website has expanded again: > > 1. There is now an opportunity for readers to send in queries. > 2. A more detailed map of the overall route showing current stops has been > provided. This is a .pdf > file and allows you to zoom in onto the route and move around on it to see > it in a little more > detail > 3. The Route page is now divided up into 12 sectors. You'll be able to > read about each sector and > where we're going. We've used up every WEEKEND except one, in the period 4 > July to 30 Sept 2009 but > virtually all of the WEEKDAY EVENINGS are still open for informal visits > to clubs that are based > near the route. > 4. Photographs of the donated UK spec Spitfire will be uploaded next > weekend. > 5. Revised Powerpoint presentations are in progress and will soon be > available for free download > > John Macartney > > Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 > www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > > An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Jan 20 09:24:15 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 09:24:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 distributor rotor size? In-Reply-To: <47935555.4090207@blacksburg.net> References: <47935555.4090207@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <28451D5E9A2C49FE90F0037E630624D5@GeoPC> I just measured the aftermarket one on the TR4 and it is 5/8" there. Measured a spare which is a pretty old Lucas part and it measures 9/16" I begin to suspect that this is not a critical dimension. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "J.C. Hassall" To: "TR list" Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 7:06 AM Subject: [TR] TR4 distributor rotor size? >I have a pair of 40795 distributors for my TR4, each with different > rotors. One measures 1/2" across the cord of the arm... >...The other measures 7/8" across the arm... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 20 09:38:26 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 08:38:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 distributor rotor size? In-Reply-To: <47935555.4090207@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <20080120163825.KDZL24798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > I have a pair of 40795 distributors for my TR4, each with > different rotors. One measures 1/2" across the cord of the > arm which carries the spark (the swipe arc) and the side > opposite the arm is straight (parallel to the distributor > shaft). The other measures 7/8" across the arm and has an > overhang (analogous to a counterweight) on the opposite side. > Which one is right for that distributor? Jim, the "counterweight" doesn't matter. Some rotors have them, some don't, doesn't seem to make much difference unless you've installed an electronic conversion that it hits (as I did). However, if I understand you correctly, you're saying that the tip of one rotor only describes a 1" circle as it turns, while the other goes 1-3/4", right ? 1" sounds way too small to me, 1-3/4" might be about right. Try measuring inside the cap. Randall From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Jan 20 09:48:16 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 09:48:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 distributor rotor size? In-Reply-To: <20080120163825.KDZL24798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20080120163825.KDZL24798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <1695DFC94A8E4070940946BF27E5ECCB@GeoPC> I think he's measuring the 'chord' of the arc made by the edge of the metal piece, so the difference is in the width of the metal presented to the terminals inside the cap. If so, the circumference of the swipe could be more or less the same. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'J.C. Hassall'" ; "'TR list'" Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 distributor rotor size? > However, if I understand you correctly, you're saying that the tip of one > rotor only describes a 1" circle as it turns, while the other goes 1-3/4", > right ? 1" sounds way too small to me, 1-3/4" might be about right. Try > measuring inside the cap. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 20 10:04:58 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 09:04:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 distributor rotor size? In-Reply-To: <1695DFC94A8E4070940946BF27E5ECCB@GeoPC> Message-ID: <20080120170457.DNCP5487.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > I think he's measuring the 'chord' of the arc made by the > edge of the metal piece, so the difference is in the width of > the metal presented to the terminals inside the cap. Ah yes, now I see. I believe you are right, I just misunderstood. And I agree with you that the narrow tip rotors seem to work fine in our TRactor motors as do the wide ones. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jan 20 10:31:29 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 12:31:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] U-Joint Removal In-Reply-To: <20080120131904.HQWL14098.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> References: <20080120131904.HQWL14098.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <001b01c85b8a$4cdf82b0$210110ac@bobspc> Jeff, Great video....a picture really is worth a thousand words. I just spent about an hour getting the 2 u-joints out of 1 axle and this guy removes and replaces 1 u-joint in about 5 minutes! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 8:19 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] U-Joint Removal At 10:28 PM 1/19/2008, ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 1/19/2008 8:23:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, >tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > >It does work for me after seeing John Kipping demonstrate it at >VTR/SP, but I wouldn't call it "tapping" nor use a "regular" hammer. >It's more like some pretty stout blows with a BFH (I used a 2.5 lb mini-sledge). Like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDX17xf9grA Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/ Athens, Georgia #354 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1233 - Release Date: 1/19/2008 6:37 PM _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1233 - Release Date: 1/19/2008 6:37 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1233 - Release Date: 1/19/2008 6:37 PM From rcrabbe at sympatico.ca Sun Jan 20 11:25:58 2008 From: rcrabbe at sympatico.ca (Richard Crabbe) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 13:25:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Shock conversions Message-ID: I am thinking about replacing the stock shocks on the rear of my 76 TR6 with a conversion kit. I have done some upgrades to the front suspension and I find the rear not that firm or responsive on the highway. Just looking for some input from someone who has done it already and maybe some recommendations as to which kits. Thanks Crabby From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jan 20 14:17:50 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 16:17:50 EST Subject: [TR] Rear Shock conversions Message-ID: In a message dated 1/20/2008 12:26:11 PM Central Standard Time, rcrabbe at sympatico.ca writes: > I am thinking about replacing the stock shocks on the rear of my 76 TR6 > with > a conversion kit. > > I have done some upgrades to the front suspension and I find the rear not > that firm or responsive on the highway. > > Just looking for some input from someone who has done it already and maybe > some recommendations as to which kits. > I had the same feeling. Even with my "heavy duty" rebuilds from Apple Hydraulics I found the suspension to be underdamped. I did the conversion using the one piece brackets that bolt to the old shock mounts and the shocks are nice a stiff. However, it might be worthwhile to send the levers to World Wide http://www.nosimport.com/? and see if Peter can fix the valving to make them as stiff as they ought to be. I know my TR3 shocks are plenty stiff. Dave From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sun Jan 20 17:17:35 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 18:17:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] Hobby time Message-ID: <380-22008112101735765@earthlink.net> A while back, I asked for some PDF drawings from various Bentley manuals. Have a look and see what I made using them. I did not save the names of those who sent me drawings, so I've put them here for everyone. http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa68/gmark_01/Triumph%20Cookies/?albumvie w=slideshow Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 20 18:22:53 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 18:22:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hobby time In-Reply-To: <380-22008112101735765@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20080121012252.DC939187871@autox.team.net> Very cool, I'll take a dozen TR3s, please! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day! This information is privileged and confidential and is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of this information (including attachments) by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please delete the information from your system and contact the sender. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Gelhar Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 5:18 PM To: triumphs Subject: [TR] Hobby time A while back, I asked for some PDF drawings from various Bentley manuals. Have a look and see what I made using them. I did not save the names of those who sent me drawings, so I've put them here for everyone. http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa68/gmark_01/Triumph%20Cookies/?albumvie w=slideshow Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1234 - Release Date: 1/20/2008 2:15 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1234 - Release Date: 1/20/2008 2:15 PM From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Jan 20 18:51:14 2008 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 18:51:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hobby time In-Reply-To: <380-22008112101735765@earthlink.net> References: <380-22008112101735765@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4793FA92.3060004@dfn.com> Greg Gelhar wrote: > A while back, I asked for some PDF drawings from various Bentley manuals. > Have a look and see what I made using them. I did not save the names of > those who sent me drawings, so I've put them here for everyone. > > http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa68/gmark_01/Triumph%20Cookies/?albumvie > w=slideshow > > > Very clever... now for some creative paint schemes with sugar frosting and food coloring (I suspect Damson would be quite popular. :) ) Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sun Jan 20 20:11:58 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 22:11:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Thrust Washer question References: Message-ID: <005301c85bdb$638d9e10$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> The recent discussion on TR6 thrust washers was very timely ... my parts car block is on its way be machined tomorrow (bored, decked, cleaned, cam bearings, etc.). I'm am toying with the idea of having the 4th main bearing cap machined to allow for a full 360 deg thrust washer setup. I have read of others doing so, and have looked through my all notes and books, I cannot find anything that gives any advice on how this is done ... I'm guessing that the 4th main bearing cap needs to be machined to the same depth and outer dia as the thrust washer location on the block ... I did find MJBs advice that the lower thrust washer be pinned in place with a roll pin, and his follow-up advice that said that pinning was a bad idea ... I have a very vague recollection from my early 4 pot Ford engines that the thrust washers had cutout tabs to stop them rotating (I think...). If a 360 deg thrust washer is installed by machining the main bearing cap, is there a need to have a means to stop them rotating .... I'm guessing yes ... if yes, any suggestions on how this might be done? I did look at Bob Danielson's link to the solid thrust washer solution ... interesting, but I'm guessing, I still need to machine the cap! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From pethier at comcast.net Sun Jan 20 20:24:52 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 03:24:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] U-Joint Removal Message-ID: <012120080324.21965.47941084000B31CA000055CD22073007939D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: tom white > Put the yoke in a vise with a socket the same diameter as the u-joint cap > between the cap and the vise jaw. IF both caps are in place put another > socket the diameter of the ypke housing on the other side. Then crank the > vise closed and press out the cap. Sometimes you may need to use a cheater > bar to crank the vise on a frozen cap. Once you get the pressure on, if the cap is resistant, tap on the side with a brass hammer. The small shock is usually enough to break loose a cap already under pressure. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From mlang99 at comcast.net Sun Jan 20 22:10:14 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 21:10:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Box Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47942936.4010209@comcast.net> David, Thanks for the info on the reproduction parts. I had wondered what the quality was like. I decided to stick with the one good split shaft box that I have. Out of the three boxes that I disassembled, there was one where the peg fell right out of the hole in the pitman shaft. The one that I re-used was nice a tight. I knocked it out with a punch, gave it a quarter of a turn and put it back in so that it had a new wear surface. I was getting pretty good at pulling pitman arms by the time I took the third box apart. Here is one observation that I had about the two boxes that were totally shot. The outer tube had been dented on both at some point. Probably during accidents. I think the dents caused enough miss-alignment to cause the bearings on the ends of the worm to fail. Randall, Thanks for publishing the instructions for rebuilding a steering box. The use of the dial indicator took a lot of the guess work out for a first-timer like myself. I now have clean and tight steering box. Like you, I ended up with a couple of snug spots a little off center when adjusting the depth of the peg in the worm. Not so bad that it would be worth the money and trouble to install a new worm. I got a good look at the mounting brackets as I was removing the box from the parts car. It doesn't look like it should be very difficult to fabricate the one that is welded to the suspension tower. A couple of holes and captive nuts in the firewall should take care of the other one. Mike DLylis at aol.com wrote: > Mike, > I have just gone through this exercise and can offer a neophytes opinion. > Randall is by far the greater authority as he helped me out with issues > through the process. > 1. If you have original usable parts, use them. This is what I found with > reproduction parts. The worm is supposed to present slight resistance in > steering at straight ahead and loosen as you go right and left. The repro worm > is slightly cone shaped. That is not correct although I was able to get it > to perform well through very detailed box adustment. > 2. The peg is supposed to be a press fit in the rocker shaft. (both repro > parts) I initially put it in and it fell out. I have resolved that as well. > 3. When I had the old worm removed from the shaft it came off with no > damage, so had it not been chipped, it would have been reusable should I have been > facing a situation as you describe. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com Mon Jan 21 06:46:02 2008 From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 07:46:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 steering column - removal & bushing replacement? Message-ID: Does anyone have any advice on the steps and tricks involved in the removal of the upper steering column in a TR6 - including the replacement of the upper and lower bushings within? Is this as hard as it look? All the manuals I have seem to be rather vague on this - particularly the bushing replacement. Thanks much in advance, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg (minus 36C today with the windchill!!) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 21 07:02:12 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 09:02:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 steering column - removal & bushing replacement? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000a01c85c36$3a2bfd90$210110ac@bobspc> Brian, The easiest way to replace the bushings is to not replace the original ones which are a bear to do. Art Lipp (http://www.trparts.com/newitems/column.html) sells a "tap in" Delrin bushing set for $25.00 that doesn't require removal of either the column or the old bushings. Drop Art an email (LIPP04 at yahoo.com)and he can tell you more about it. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lanoway, Brian Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 8:46 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 steering column - removal & bushing replacement? Does anyone have any advice on the steps and tricks involved in the removal of the upper steering column in a TR6 - including the replacement of the upper and lower bushings within? Is this as hard as it look? All the manuals I have seem to be rather vague on this - particularly the bushing replacement. Thanks much in advance, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg (minus 36C today with the windchill!!) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1234 - Release Date: 1/20/2008 2:15 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1234 - Release Date: 1/20/2008 2:15 PM From aribert.neumann at edag-us.com Mon Jan 21 10:43:22 2008 From: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com (Aribert Neumann) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 12:43:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] 14 inch wheels on Spit or GT6? {Scanned} Message-ID: Baby needs new shoes before next year's driving season is over - there is still about 1/8 to 3/16 tread depth left but I don't like to run a tire to much less than 1/8th inch depth. Currently the car has stock Spitfire wheels with a 175/70R13 tire. I am considering going to a 14 inch wheel. Anyone out there run 4 inch wheels on either a Spit or GT6? What tire size did you get away with? If they were aftermarket wheels, do you remember the backspace & offset? I am considering Superlight wheels (similar to Pannasport), see URL. http://www.packracingproducts.com/acatalog/Spitfire.html If I go with a larger wheel, I am thinking that there might be an opportunity to move the caliper and go with a larger rotor. Anyone been down this route with a Spit or GT6? What else might look period correct? 71 GT6, Spit body, 2.5L warmed over, Weber 40DCOEs, Mazda 626/RX7 diff (similar to GRM's Ro-Spit diff) -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean. From mlang99 at comcast.net Mon Jan 21 11:28:23 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 10:28:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Box Rebuild Message-ID: <4794E447.3090803@comcast.net> Bill, I stumbled across the Randall's instructions during a web search. Here is the link: http://www.sctoa.org/helpdesk/index.htm I would recommend measuring your shims. Randall mentions .010" and .004" as the thickness that he has. I found mine to be .010" and .0025". It's quite possible that the factory wasn't very consistent with what they used. I easily got my worm set to within +/-.001, but I had three steering boxes worth of shims to shuffle around. The bushing in the bottom of the best box was still nice and tight which I attribute to the box being full of nice clean gear oil. Mike wbeech wrote: > Mike, > > Rebuilding my steering box is in my near future this winter, can you direct > me to the instructions that you got from Randall? > > Thx, > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day! From drsandner at embarqmail.com Mon Jan 21 12:44:02 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 14:44:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] mirror Message-ID: <39C322E8336F4CB28C6A1C118BC8EE27@randyPC> hi vance, et al, take said mirror blank to a "stained glass" shop, and ask them to cut it with the glass grinder/router. randy From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Jan 21 12:54:00 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 14:54:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Water pump pulley, TR3 TR4 References: Message-ID: <001001c85c67$5e5bf1d0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Anyone out there in Lister Land have an original equipment TR3/4 water pulley they'd part with? Thanks, Ed Woods From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jan 21 19:12:05 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 21:12:05 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Box Rebuild Message-ID: Try ordering new shims. I was warned by a professional restorer that two years ago he ordered some and the bolt holes were in the wrong place. So I ordered some. Guess what? Two years later the holes are still in the wrong place. I returned those and ordered another set from another source and some of those had the holes in the wrong place. I return the some and they replaced them and some of the replacements had the holes in the wrong place. Now I have a selection of shims that are sufficient to get the correct "0" end float on the worm! I installed a new worm and the shims were very different from the original that came out. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Tue Jan 22 03:38:47 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 05:38:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] U-Joint Removal References: Message-ID: <003f01c85ce2$f87635c0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Huh, I watched him do it with almost dainty raps with a small hammer. BFH's and presses do have the nasty habit of bending things. Many a part gets accidentally mangled beyond use by a press. ----- Original Message ----- > It does work for me after seeing John Kipping demonstrate it at VTR/SP, > but > I wouldn't call it "tapping" nor use a "regular" hammer. It's more like > some pretty stout blows with a BFH (I used a 2.5 lb mini-sledge). From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 22 08:21:17 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 15:21:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A Message-ID: <012220081521.14657.479609ED0008A0F30000394122070208539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "wbeech" > Phil E. is running the Kuhmo 165-80/-15 on his TR4 and says they do the job > perfectly. Maybe he can chime in to this thread. I'm pretty sure that I already have. I've been happy with the Kumho tires I got from Tire Rack, but I did buy them back in 2002, so I don't know much about the current Kumho product or its availability. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Jan 22 08:53:23 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 15:53:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] Chroming Message-ID: <012220081553.10369.479611730002B1F20000288122134843730B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> I need a sanity check here - and I'd appreciate feedback. How much could I expect to pay to have my windscreen frame and two stanchions re-chromed ? I got a quote today and it seems outrageous. Thanks ! Andrew From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Jan 22 09:37:58 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 11:37:58 EST Subject: [TR] Chroming Message-ID: I would imagine the best part of a $1000 bill. Mike Moore **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Tue Jan 22 09:59:39 2008 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 11:59:39 EST Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A Message-ID: Phil, I think Kuhmo tyres are great but also think the 165/80R15's look a bit narrow in tread width compared to the old 165R15's. Since they are working well for everyone and are available at a very reasonable price, I'll keep recommending and selling them. George ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Tue Jan 22 11:21:18 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 13:21:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Chroming In-Reply-To: <012220081553.10369.479611730002B1F20000288122134843730B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <008701c85d23$96286f50$0301a8c0@chuck> Andrew, If it was outrageous, it was probably accurate! I had my front bumper, overriders, taillights and a few other little things from my 4A rechromed a couple of years ago and I thought I'd have to take out a second mortgage! I don't remember the exact cost but it was north of $1,000. Chuck White 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of auprichard at comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 10:53 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Chroming I need a sanity check here - and I'd appreciate feedback. How much could I expect to pay to have my windscreen frame and two stanchions re-chromed ? I got a quote today and it seems outrageous. Thanks ! Andrew From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 22 12:06:48 2008 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 11:06:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] Chroming References: <008701c85d23$96286f50$0301a8c0@chuck> Message-ID: <000801c85d29$f0efaa60$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Chroming is very labor intense. Quality chroming also requires that the person doing the buffing (prep) be well trained or the end result is lousy. It is amazing easy to over-buff a piece losing the crisp details etc. I have found the best approach to getting good chrome is by personal referral from previous customers. Decide beforehand the quality you want and then ask around for referrals at the local car clubs etc. Take what you want chromed to the place that you have selected from the referrals and pay the price they quote for the work. This is always painful.... but the only way to get a cheaper price is to scrimp on the labor or find cheaper (untrained) labor, neither a formula for good quality chrome. Mike Denman ----- Original Message ----- From: "C E White" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 10:21 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Chroming > Andrew, > > If it was outrageous, it was probably accurate! I had my front bumper, > overriders, taillights and a few other little things from my 4A rechromed > a > couple of years ago and I thought I'd have to take out a second mortgage! > I > don't remember the exact cost but it was north of $1,000. > > Chuck White > 1965 TR4A IRS > 1970 GT6+ > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf > Of auprichard at comcast.net > Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 10:53 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Chroming > > > I need a sanity check here - and I'd appreciate feedback. > How much could I expect to pay to have my windscreen frame and two > stanchions re-chromed ? I got a quote today and it seems outrageous. > Thanks > ! Andrew > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Jan 22 12:13:20 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 12:13:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Chroming In-Reply-To: <008701c85d23$96286f50$0301a8c0@chuck> References: <008701c85d23$96286f50$0301a8c0@chuck> Message-ID: <8EAB62A790774A10B487CF994A95D2DB@GeoPC> This seems to vary a lot, perhaps by where you are in the US. Last summer I had my TR4's bumpers (f&r), overiders (4), taillight housings (2) and side mirror rechromed for $953. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "C E White" > > If it was outrageous, it was probably accurate! I had my front bumper, > overriders, taillights and a few other little things from my 4A rechromed > a > couple of years ago and I thought I'd have to take out a second mortgage! > I > don't remember the exact cost but it was north of $1,000. From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Jan 22 12:24:19 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 14:24:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine parts cheap - Boston Area Message-ID: <003f01c85d2c$62bd0c80$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> NFI: just came across this Craigslist posting for GT6 short block parts at a very reasonable price: http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/pts/547518979.html ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From banc8004 at comcast.net Tue Jan 22 15:52:13 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 22:52:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] U-Joint Removal Message-ID: <012220082252.13172.4796739D000A5A5B000033742200750744CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> Avoiding damage to the yoke is the reason the hammer method is the preferred technique. Pressing a stubborn hardy-spicer out with a vice, or drifting it out using a socket, can put damaging stress on the arms of the yoke. Brian > Message: 4 > Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 05:38:47 -0500 > From: "Nolan" > Subject: Re: [TR] U-Joint Removal > Huh, I watched him do it with almost dainty raps with a small hammer. > > BFH's and presses do have the nasty habit of bending things. Many a part > gets accidentally mangled beyond use by a press. From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Jan 22 18:32:07 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 17:32:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] U-Joint Removal In-Reply-To: <012220082252.13172.4796739D000A5A5B000033742200750744CBCFCFC80C020E0D@com cast.net> References: <012220082252.13172.4796739D000A5A5B000033742200750744CBCFCFC80C020E0D@com cast.net> Message-ID: OR ... you can take Clint Eastwoods advice and remember that "A mans' gotta know his limitations" ... and take the thing to your local drive line shop and have them do it ... I replaced all the U-Joints ... six (6) ... with Spicers for less than $100 (in Stockton, CA) Avoiding damage to the yoke is the reason the hammer method is the preferred technique. Pressing a stubborn hardy-spicer out with a vice, or drifting it out using a socket, can put damaging stress on the arms of the yoke. Brian -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Jan 22 18:33:35 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 20:33:35 EST Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A Message-ID: In a message dated 1/22/08 12:00:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com writes: << I'll keep recommending and selling them. George >> Where are you getting these Kuhmo tires? Harold ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Jan 22 18:34:18 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 20:34:18 EST Subject: [TR] Chroming Message-ID: In a message dated 1/22/08 10:53:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: << I got a quote today and it seems outrageous. Thanks ! Andrew >> Compared to what? ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From wdaehler at wi.rr.com Tue Jan 22 18:44:58 2008 From: wdaehler at wi.rr.com (Will Daehler) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 19:44:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Universal Joints: What is the Reason for Replacing them? Message-ID: <000001c85d61$9047e1e0$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> I've been reading about all the tips for replacing the universal joints on the drive shafts. It's been five minutes, and I'm still not done. It's actually been almost a month since Christmas, yes Santa left me a pair in my stocking. Hardy Spicers. That U-tube video, what an inspiration! What has been curiously lacking with the discussion on the list so far is: WHY replace the U-joints at all? WHAT symptom would you be trying to eliminate? WHY are new U-joints even necessary? Last year I replaced my drive shaft with another one that I had won on E-Bay. I had been driving around in my TR4, with my right leg pressed hard against the transmission tunnel cover. And every once in a while there was a thump, and a bump against my leg. My conjecture was that it was worn universal joints, and this flexibility was allowing some part of the drive shaft to be so far out of position that it was grazing the tunnel cover occasionally. So when I replaced the clutch last May (thanks MOTRAH) I put in the replacement driveshaft. All problems cured, but I'm just wrenching in the dark. Will In Wisconsin From BearTranserv at aol.com Tue Jan 22 21:26:43 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 23:26:43 EST Subject: [TR] Universal Joints: What is the Reason for Replacing them? Message-ID: In a message dated 1/22/2008 6:45:20 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, wdaehler at wi.rr.com writes: And every once in a while there was a thump, and a bump against my leg. My conjecture was that it was worn universal joints Not likely. Usually starts with a vibration and/or a growling sound, and works it's way up to an outright constant thumping. Never had one just thump occasionally. They are usually just good or bad and not much in between. I replaced all mine on the B because it had been sitting 20 years, and I expect I'll replace them on the TR4 for much the same reason. Easier to do while the driveline is out than on the side of the road later. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 23 06:01:17 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 08:01:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Universal Joints: What is the Reason for Replacing them? In-Reply-To: <000001c85d61$9047e1e0$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> References: <000001c85d61$9047e1e0$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Message-ID: <000301c85dc0$0d3bb560$210110ac@bobspc> Will, I started the u-joint thread with my question about replacement technique. The reason I'm doing it is one of preventative maintenance while I have the whole drive train out of the car, including the trailing arms. I have no idea when or if they've ever been replaced so I figured I'd do it while I had all the parts on my workbench. I was getting a clicking-like sound at the end of the driving season but it looks like that turned out to be a broken diff mount. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Will Daehler Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 8:45 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Universal Joints: What is the Reason for Replacing them? I've been reading about all the tips for replacing the universal joints on the drive shafts. It's been five minutes, and I'm still not done. It's actually been almost a month since Christmas, yes Santa left me a pair in my stocking. Hardy Spicers. That U-tube video, what an inspiration! What has been curiously lacking with the discussion on the list so far is: WHY replace the U-joints at all? WHAT symptom would you be trying to eliminate? WHY are new U-joints even necessary? Last year I replaced my drive shaft with another one that I had won on E-Bay. I had been driving around in my TR4, with my right leg pressed hard against the transmission tunnel cover. And every once in a while there was a thump, and a bump against my leg. My conjecture was that it was worn universal joints, and this flexibility was allowing some part of the drive shaft to be so far out of position that it was grazing the tunnel cover occasionally. So when I replaced the clutch last May (thanks MOTRAH) I put in the replacement driveshaft. All problems cured, but I'm just wrenching in the dark. Will In Wisconsin This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.9/1237 - Release Date: 1/22/2008 11:04 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.9/1237 - Release Date: 1/22/2008 11:04 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 23 11:42:34 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 10:42:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Universal Joints: What is the Reason for Replacing them? In-Reply-To: <000001c85d61$9047e1e0$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> References: <000001c85d61$9047e1e0$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Message-ID: <00b801c85def$b8388d60$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > WHY replace the U-joints at all? WHAT symptom would you be trying to > eliminate? WHY are new U-joints even necessary? Personally, I don't replace them until they have failed. First sign of failure seems to vary a lot; sometimes it's just excess vibration (from a seized joint forcing other things to flex), while more often it's excess play in the joint. IMO any slop whatsoever is reason for replacement and I check at every lube job. One of the most common symptoms is a clunk when you start out (especially after backing up), but that can also be backlash in the differential, etc. Of course if you have the driveshaft out for any reason, you should also check the U-joints for smooth motion and no play. Last time I changed the gearbox in the TR3A, the front U-joint felt kind of loose and 'gritty' ... when I got it apart I discovered that it's rollers were square ! Apparently they had been seized but the joint was moving anyway. Another thing to look for at every lube job is any sign that the caps are moving in the yoke. A strip of clean spot next to the circlip is a giveaway that there is something wrong. Randall From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Jan 23 12:25:33 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 14:25:33 EST Subject: [TR] bump noise Message-ID: an occasional bumping can be a bad tranny mount.. go around a sharp corner and your tranny & drive line moves sideways a bit and there's the rub.. Carl Usually starts with a vibration and/or a growling sound, and works it's way up to an outright constant thumping. Never had one just thump occasionally. They are usually just good or bad and not much in between. ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From auprichard at comcast.net Wed Jan 23 12:33:38 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 19:33:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3/4 high-port head Message-ID: <012320081933.26592.47979692000C20C5000067E022070209530B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Is there anyone within a reasonable drive from Boston who has a scrap high-port head from a TR3 or 4 ? I want to create a torque/honing plate for prestressing the liners prior to boring them out to 89mm. Doesn't matter if it's cracked or otherwise unusable. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard From spamiam at comcast.net Wed Jan 23 14:41:00 2008 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 16:41:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Universal Joints: What is the Reason for Replacing References: Message-ID: <000a01c85e08$a799c140$6501a8c0@p4server> I had 5 of 6 that were bad in my old TR4a. The driveshaft had a nasty vibration. When I got under the car I saw that the yokes of the driveshaft were not aligned properly. I thought to myself "Ah Ha!! That is the reason". So I realigned the yokes. The problem was MUCH MUCH worse after that. It felt like the driveshaft was going to fly out of the car! I then FELT the U-joints. THey had some very palpable play when I tried resisting back and forth rotation of the opposite side. I could feel a ton of play. I took the drivehasft to a truck driveline place and they replaced the U-joints. They had to fiddle with the spread of the yokes to get the perfect flexibility of joints too. Then they also found that the shaft was terribly out of balance. They fixed all that and it was fine. After that I was quite attuned to little jolts in the driveline. I felt more, but very subtle, unevenness. It was almost like an irregularity in the pavement. It took me a little while to convince myself it was not my imagination. I then felt the play in the joints on the half shafts. I could JUST barely feel a slight "click" of play. I took out the half shafts and tried to take them to the driveline place. It turned out that the guy who worked there moved to the main shop in a town 40 miles away. So I did hte job myself. I did not tune the yokes, not balance the halfshafts, but it turned out OK. When I looked in the old cups I could see that the rollers had worn little ruts in the cup and spider. It seems thay roll back and forth rather than around and around. It appears that they fail by making ruts. 3 of the 4 joints were worn out. BTW, the joints in the mainshaft were so bad that the rollers were BROKEN! So, I'd say, if they are old and there is any doubt, just replace them. I bet the new ones will be tighter. -Tony > What has been curiously lacking with the discussion on the list so far is: > WHY replace the U-joints at all? WHAT symptom would you be trying to > eliminate? WHY are new U-joints even necessary? From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 23 14:59:51 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 16:59:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] The U-Joints are removed Message-ID: <001601c85e0b$494aa8e0$210110ac@bobspc> I got all 4 u-joints out and this really was a miserable job. I tried all the methods suggested and ended up using a combination of them. I had previously removed 2 of them so this afternoon was spent on the other two. The first one tapped out as if there was a helper underneath the cap pushing. And it all went downhill from there. A couple of them were totally frozen in place and took a lot of "vice persuasion". But they're out and the axles have been cleaned up. When I think of the guy in the video doing one in about 5 minutes, I can only shake my head and wonder what I was doing wrong. But they're out and thanks for all your suggestions. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.9/1239 - Release Date: 1/23/2008 10:24 AM From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jan 23 16:58:16 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 23:58:16 -0000 Subject: [TR] Door measurements Message-ID: <007101c85e1b$d2676ae0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Hi, Guys Help required please. I'm having two magnetic display panels made for the Macartney Charity's 1978 1500 Spitfire that I have yet to collect from its exceedingly generous donor. These panels will only be mounted for display purposes and will be off more than they're on. The dimensions I need are as follows: TOTAL WIDTH - from leading to trailing edge directly beneath the door handle TOTAL HEIGHT - at trailing edge from horizontal of door bottom to beneath handle TOTAL HEIGHT - at leading edge from horizontal door bottom to intersect point on the width measurement Just to complicate things, I'd greatly appreciate similar measurements using the same criteria for a Mk 2 Stag door Many thanks Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From tfansher at comcast.net Wed Jan 23 17:01:43 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 19:01:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Door measurements References: <007101c85e1b$d2676ae0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <001901c85e1c$4eb52a10$5918e247@DCS78M81> 1973 Stag Mk II TOTAL WIDTH - 43 inches TOTAL HEIGHT - to just under the black stripe under the door handle 12 inches front and back Glad to help Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag Mk II Just to complicate things, I'd greatly appreciate similar measurements using the same criteria for a Mk 2 Stag door > > Many thanks > > Jonmac From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Jan 23 17:23:18 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 00:23:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] Universal Joints: What is the Reason for Replacing Message-ID: <012420080023.5517.4797DA76000819A30000158D22155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> I may have missed it if it's been addressed already. But what is the List consensus on having the driveshaft professionally balanced when you have it out and are doing the u-joint overhaul? This seems a prudent precaution at least for those who are doing ground ups on unknown cars. I did it for this reason, and the size counterweight they had to put on would choke a cow. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jan 23 17:33:45 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 00:33:45 -0000 Subject: [TR] Universal Joints: What is the Reason for Replacing References: <012420080023.5517.4797DA76000819A30000158D22155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <008601c85e20$c79c41d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Terry Smith wrote: >I may have missed it if it's been addressed already. But what is the List consensus on having the >driveshaft professionally balanced when you have it out and are doing the u-joint overhaul?> > This seems a prudent precaution at least for those who are doing ground ups on unknown cars. I > did it for this reason, and the size counterweight they had to put on would choke a cow. IMHO if you're doing a complete ground-up rebuild on almost any Triumph, a professional balancing and re-jointing exercise on the propellor (drive) shaft will be money well spent. Propshaft vibration on Triumphs was a major headache on all models from Herald and its later derivatives onwards. Same went for TR and big saloons as well. The most common cause was inadequate spot welding of the balance weight and it flew of with centrifugal force. I had mine redone about four years ago and went to the additional precaution of fitting two nylon cable ties around either end of the balance weight......... just in case:) Jonmac From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jan 23 17:53:03 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 19:53:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Chroming In-Reply-To: <012220081553.10369.479611730002B1F20000288122134843730B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> References: <012220081553.10369.479611730002B1F20000288122134843730B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <01CBEFF42AC4415AB90E46FC2526A8EF@CarlPC> I had the frame and stanchions done about 3 years ago (along with bumper et al). but just those items were listed as $365. They still look like they did when I picked them up. Breakdown was probably $265/50/50. The invoice has faded/torn and I can't read the company name in Melbourne. May have been Spacecoast Plating. Sort of fits the shape of the letters. Prices are 3 years old so could be more now. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 10:53 AM Subject: [TR] Chroming >I need a sanity check here - and I'd appreciate feedback. > How much could I expect to pay to have my windscreen frame and two > stanchions re-chromed ? I got a quote today and it seems outrageous. > Thanks ! > Andrew > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Jan 23 17:58:57 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 19:58:57 EST Subject: [TR] Chroming Message-ID: According to my friend (who owns a plating shop), there was a huge increase a while back. He said it was due to nickel and copper going but that was generally seen as a good excuse to raise all prices. I found parts I had planned on plating no longer made sense and I bought new instead. Mike Moore **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From tfansher at comcast.net Wed Jan 23 17:58:00 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 19:58:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Chroming References: <012220081553.10369.479611730002B1F20000288122134843730B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> <01CBEFF42AC4415AB90E46FC2526A8EF@CarlPC> Message-ID: <001901c85e24$2b90e990$5918e247@DCS78M81> I had my TR3A front bumper done and windshield also the valve cover at Space Coast Plating in Melbourne, Fl. really good job cost -- about $1000.00 US. Had the TR4 bumpers and valve cover and the inserts to the Minilite knock offs done for $1250. EXCELLENT job. no reservations, does take some time so don't be in a hurry. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 7:53 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Chroming >I had the frame and stanchions done about 3 years ago (along with bumper et > al). but just those items were listed as $365. They still look like they > did when I picked them up. Breakdown was probably $265/50/50. The > invoice > has faded/torn and I can't read the company name in Melbourne. May have > been Spacecoast Plating. Sort of fits the shape of the letters. > > Prices are 3 years old so could be more now. > Carl From supertr6 at earthlink.net Wed Jan 23 18:11:09 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 20:11:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Chroming In-Reply-To: <001901c85e24$2b90e990$5918e247@DCS78M81> References: <012220081553.10369.479611730002B1F20000288122134843730B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> <01CBEFF42AC4415AB90E46FC2526A8EF@CarlPC> <001901c85e24$2b90e990$5918e247@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <4797E5AD.4040109@earthlink.net> Wow, that really has gone up. I had my front and rear TR-6 bumpers done there about 10 years ago for around $500ish. Joe THOMAS FANSHER wrote: > I had my TR3A front bumper done and windshield also the valve cover at Space > Coast Plating in Melbourne, Fl. really good job cost -- about $1000.00 US. > Had the TR4 bumpers and valve cover and the inserts to the Minilite knock > offs done for $1250. EXCELLENT job. no reservations, does take some time > so don't be in a hurry. > Tom > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Carl TR" > To: ; > Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 7:53 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Chroming > > > >> I had the frame and stanchions done about 3 years ago (along with bumper et >> al). but just those items were listed as $365. They still look like they >> did when I picked them up. Breakdown was probably $265/50/50. The >> invoice >> has faded/torn and I can't read the company name in Melbourne. May have >> been Spacecoast Plating. Sort of fits the shape of the letters. >> >> Prices are 3 years old so could be more now. >> Carl From patton at suscom-maine.net Wed Jan 23 19:13:10 2008 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 21:13:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Chroming In-Reply-To: <4797E5AD.4040109@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Just received a quote to chrome the two rear corners pieces of a TR6 bumper for $470. Rick snip > Behalf Of Joe Burlein > Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 8:11 PM > To: THOMAS FANSHER > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Chroming > > > Wow, that really has gone up. I had my front and rear TR-6 bumpers > done there about 10 years ago for around $500ish. From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Wed Jan 23 19:52:13 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 21:52:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Chroming In-Reply-To: <012220081553.10369.479611730002B1F20000288122134843730B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> References: <012220081553.10369.479611730002B1F20000288122134843730B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <007f01c85e34$1faab290$a2463b47@Scott> I had mine done by a top notch shop here in Harrisburg, PA back in 2002 for the following cost: Square Trim $125 Curved Trim $125 Stanchions (2) $200 Total $450 Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of auprichard at comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 10:53 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Chroming I need a sanity check here - and I'd appreciate feedback. How much could I expect to pay to have my windscreen frame and two stanchions re-chromed ? I got a quote today and it seems outrageous. Thanks ! Andrew _______________________________________________ From auprichard at comcast.net Wed Jan 23 20:36:58 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 22:36:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] chroming In-Reply-To: <012320081933.26592.47979692000C20C5000067E022070209530B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001601c85e3a$606cdb40$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Thank you to all of you who replied, either to everyone on the distribution list or directly to me. The outrageous (to me) price turns out not to have been as outrageous as I thought, although it is exactly twice what it cost three years ago ($700 vs $350). Misery loves company, I guess............. Andrew From banc8004 at comcast.net Thu Jan 24 03:32:37 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 05:32:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Authentic choke cable, TR4 Message-ID: <76E5584E-48C6-4E1C-9297-5D124915E78A@comcast.net> The choke cable on my TR4 does not lock in position. Like many, I use a crocodile clip to hold it at a setting while the car warms up. The cable is also hard to pull, such is its condition. I would like a cable that locks when rotated, and pulls easily. I recently used a gift voucher for Vicky Brit to order a choke cable, and was surprised to receive something quite unlike anything on my dash. The VB choke cable carries a huge molded rubber block for the knob. Rather than Triumph equipment,this knob would sit better on a back hoe or a blacktop spreader. The choke knob on my lawn tractor is far more elegant. The VB locking mechanism works - not by notches in the cable lead, but because the head connected to the knob is curved through the first 4" - rotating it stresses the curve and locks the cable in place. Is there a source for a TR4-correct choke cable that reliably locks? Or can the locking mechanism on an old cable be 'refreshed'. The Vicky Brit item isn't going near my car. Brian in Valley Forge. 1963 TR4 CT 14455 L From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Jan 24 04:59:19 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 11:59:19 -0000 Subject: [TR] Authentic choke cable, TR4 References: <76E5584E-48C6-4E1C-9297-5D124915E78A@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001301c85e80$8e262af0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Brian Jones wrote: > The choke cable on my TR4 does not lock in position. Like many, I use > a crocodile clip to hold it at a setting while the car warms up. The > cable is also hard to pull, such is its condition. Brian, if you are unsuccessful in locating the correct cable type, revert to the approved Standard-Triumph service tool. Instead of a croc clip, use a wooden clothes peg (clothes pin) with a short piece of string looped through the central spring to hang from the choke knob. No self-respecting Triumph repairman was ever without this essential piece of kit in their toolbox. AFAIK, Darrell Floyd has yet to include this important 'original' feature in the VTR Judging criteria for Concours cars - which is a great shame. I have one in my car - premanently! The cold start cable is perfectly satisfactory and works well, but the interior as a whole looked a little incomplete without this essential feature. Jonmac From cole.jw at comcast.net Thu Jan 24 06:47:29 2008 From: cole.jw at comcast.net (cole.jw at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 13:47:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] Chroming and Other Resto-Disasters Message-ID: <012420081347.16859.479896F10008F03B000041DB22070009539906D20A04010C@comcast.net> I have been mostly quiet on the list recently, but it doesn't mean nothing is happening. I last reported in when I got my 1972 TR6 back from the paint shop. I have been reinstalling parts and waiting for my bumpers. I pick them up from the plating shop on Friday. Two months and $1,165 for all sections of the rear bumper, the front bumper and license plate light cover. It's supposed to be a show-quality plating job. I'll know tomorrow. The whole process has been plagued with problems that should not be. Seat padding and convertible top back-ordered, but no one bothered to tell me. They just didn't show up. I had to call for that little tidbit. I was forced to use some of my old rubber seals, even though I bought new ones from Victoria British. It seems that every rubber part I get from them is too short. Even the replacement passenger's side crash pad was 2" too short, leaving a gap. Judging by the labels on the bags, they should have called it Victoria Taiwanese. Oh well. That's part of what makes a restoration a challenge, huh? After all of this fun, I sure hope the bumpers look good. I am still on track to have this TR6 on the road for summer. Maybe with old seat upholstery and no top, but on the road, nonetheless. Jerry From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 24 07:10:36 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 07:10:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Chroming and Other Resto-Disasters References: <012420081347.16859.479896F10008F03B000041DB22070009539906D20A04010C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000501c85e92$e48de600$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Jerry, The same thing happened to me back in the mid 90's when I was restoring my first Mk1 Spit. I ordered all the upholstery and top parts from TRF during their Christmas sale to save shipping, even though I knew that I would not need them until Spring. Come spring and they were still backordered. I finally gave up and ordered the same parts from British Parts Northwest and had them the next day. The funny thing is that I saved money even though I had to pay shipping. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 6:47 AM Subject: [TR] Chroming and Other Resto-Disasters > I have been mostly quiet on the list recently, but it doesn't mean nothing is happening. I last reported in when I got my 1972 TR6 back from the paint shop. > > I have been reinstalling parts and waiting for my bumpers. I pick them up from the plating shop on Friday. Two months and $1,165 for all sections of the rear bumper, the front bumper and license plate light cover. It's supposed to be a show-quality plating job. I'll know tomorrow. > > The whole process has been plagued with problems that should not be. Seat padding and convertible top back-ordered, but no one bothered to tell me. They just didn't show up. I had to call for that little tidbit. > > I was forced to use some of my old rubber seals, even though I bought new ones from Victoria British. It seems that every rubber part I get from them is too short. Even the replacement passenger's side crash pad was 2" too short, leaving a gap. Judging by the labels on the bags, they should have called it Victoria Taiwanese. Oh well. That's part of what makes a restoration a challenge, huh? > > After all of this fun, I sure hope the bumpers look good. I am still on track to have this TR6 on the road for summer. Maybe with old seat upholstery and no top, but on the road, nonetheless. > > Jerry From drsandner at embarqmail.com Thu Jan 24 07:10:39 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 09:10:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] mirror Message-ID: <576098B08A5A4E37BE1011A1B25C0187@randyPC> morning vance, et al, the glass grinder does jut that, it grinds the glass to the desired shape. there should be no breakage. i have been doing stained glass over 30 years, with the only breakage when i get impatient and push too hard against the diamond arbor. randy From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 24 07:59:08 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 14:59:08 +0000 Subject: [TR] Universal Joints: What is the Reason for Replacing In-Reply-To: <012420080023.5517.4797DA76000819A30000158D22155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <012420080023.5517.4797DA76000819A30000158D22155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: Always have the balance of the drive shaft checked if you sense any drive line vibration. It is the most common cause of vibration in the drive line. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 24 08:00:45 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 15:00:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] Need a wheel builder. Message-ID: Do any of you list members know of a good shop in Northern Ca. that makes steel wheels? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 24 08:10:17 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:10:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Need a wheel builder. References: Message-ID: <001f01c85e9b$3b03b660$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Circle Wheels is located in Fresno Email: sales at circleracing.com Phone: 559-251-1127 Fax: 559-251-1620 Address: 5515 E. Lamona, Fresno, CA 93727 Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:00 AM Subject: [TR] Need a wheel builder. > Do any of you list members know of a good shop in Northern Ca. that makes > steel wheels? Thanks. > > Best regards, > Tom From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Jan 24 08:18:16 2008 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 10:18:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Authentic choke cable, TR4 In-Reply-To: <76E5584E-48C6-4E1C-9297-5D124915E78A@comcast.net> References: <76E5584E-48C6-4E1C-9297-5D124915E78A@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6fa72a770801240718k3fb088fbr2f98595dbffab203@mail.gmail.com> sounds like you have the authentic cable already..... On Jan 24, 2008 5:32 AM, Brian Jones wrote: > The choke cable on my TR4 does not lock in position. Like many, I use > a crocodile clip to hold it at a setting while the car warms up. The > cable is also hard to pull, such is its condition. > > I would like a cable that locks when rotated, and pulls easily. > > I recently used a gift voucher for Vicky Brit to order a choke cable, > and was surprised to receive something quite unlike anything on my dash. > > The VB choke cable carries a huge molded rubber block for the knob. > Rather than Triumph equipment,this knob would sit better on a back hoe > or a blacktop spreader. The choke knob on my lawn tractor is far more > elegant. > > The VB locking mechanism works - not by notches in the cable lead, but > because the head connected to the knob is curved through the first 4" > - rotating it stresses the curve and locks the cable in place. > > Is there a source for a TR4-correct choke cable that reliably locks? > Or can the locking mechanism on an old cable be 'refreshed'. > > The Vicky Brit item isn't going near my car. > > Brian in Valley Forge. > 1963 TR4 CT 14455 L > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com Thu Jan 24 08:34:09 2008 From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 09:34:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? Message-ID: I've got all the gauges out of my TR6 as I get ready to install my new Prestige Autowood dash. The new dash is so damned nice that I'm now highly motivated to make sure everything I put into it doesn't detract from this work of art. Any tips on cleaning the chrome rings, gauge faces, glass etc. on my TR6 gauges? Are there any products that are well suited to this? Is there anything else I should consider before I install my new wood dash? I am by the way putting in new crash pads around the dash cause my current ones all of a sudden look shabby. Thanks much in advance, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 24 08:41:32 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:41:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? References: Message-ID: <002901c85e9f$9890da20$2d02a8c0@Belkin> The best way to clean the chrome gauge bezels is to remove them and use a good chrome polish or a nild auto finish polishing compound. That said, it is often the case that the rings won't easily come off because time and the weather has caused the gaskets to be perminantly attached to the bezels. That would mean that once you do get them off, you will have to replace those seals. I don't know if they are easily obtainable. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lanoway, Brian" To: Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:34 AM Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? > I've got all the gauges out of my TR6 as I get ready to install my new > Prestige Autowood dash. The new dash is so damned nice that I'm now > highly motivated to make sure everything I put into it doesn't detract > from this work of art. > > Any tips on cleaning the chrome rings, gauge faces, glass etc. on my TR6 > gauges? Are there any products that are well suited to this? Is there > anything else I should consider before I install my new wood dash? I am > by the way putting in new crash pads around the dash cause my current > ones all of a sudden look shabby. > > Thanks much in advance, > > Brian Lanoway > 1973 TR6 > Winnipeg From peter at nosimport.com Thu Jan 24 09:03:39 2008 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 10:03:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? In-Reply-To: <002901c85e9f$9890da20$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <002901c85e9f$9890da20$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080124100245.0356c268@nosimport.com> At 09:41 AM 1/24/2008, Joe Curry wrote: >The best way to clean the chrome gauge bezels is to remove them and use a >good chrome polish or a nild auto finish polishing compound. > >That said, it is often the case that the rings won't easily come off because >time and the weather has caused the gaskets to be perminantly attached to >the bezels. That would mean that once you do get them off, you will have to >replace those seals. I don't know if they are easily obtainable. > >Joe C. Barrie Robinson offers the gaskets... http://www.britcot.com/ Peter C. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 24 09:09:58 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:09:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01a801c85ea3$90f49f50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Any tips on cleaning the chrome rings, gauge faces, glass > etc. on my TR6 gauges? The luminous paint on the faces is very fragile, and water soluble. Don't get it wet. > Is there > anything else I should consider before I install my new wood > dash? You might want to replace the 'rubber' cushions between the gauges and the dash. The usual suspect offer purpose-made gaskets, but I find that ordinary O-rings work fine. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 24 09:21:04 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:21:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] Authentic choke cable, TR4 In-Reply-To: <76E5584E-48C6-4E1C-9297-5D124915E78A@comcast.net> References: <76E5584E-48C6-4E1C-9297-5D124915E78A@comcast.net> Message-ID: <01a901c85ea5$1ddf08f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Is there a source for a TR4-correct choke cable that reliably locks? I bought an aftermarket TR3 cable from Moss almost 20 years ago, and it still works. Had a fixed knob that didn't exactly match the original, but after rounding the corners a bit with sandpaper, it looks at home. And the twist-lock works quite well. > Or can the locking mechanism on an old cable be 'refreshed'. Depends on what is wrong with it. I've fixed at least one cable that I think might be original to a Triumph, by fabricating a replacement for the part that locks to the shaft. It was just a "D" shaped piece of flat brass and the original one was worn out. The shaft was also worn, so I made the new piece a bit oversize to compensate. Randall From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Thu Jan 24 10:56:15 2008 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 17:56:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? Message-ID: <012420081756.8218.4798D13F00079FF10000201A22007637049D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net> I came across some old gauges I rejuvenated somewhat by removing the chrome ring, cleaning with 000 steel wool and Coke Cola, then chrome polish. I sprayed the faces with Pledge, several really light coats with drying time inbetween seems to work better. Just what I did... no financial interest in either Coke Cola or Pledge ..... unfortunately. Bob -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Lanoway, Brian" > I've got all the gauges out of my TR6 as I get ready to install my new > Prestige Autowood dash. The new dash is so damned nice that I'm now > highly motivated to make sure everything I put into it doesn't detract > from this work of art. > > Any tips on cleaning the chrome rings, gauge faces, glass etc. on my TR6 > gauges? Are there any products that are well suited to this? Is there > anything else I should consider before I install my new wood dash? I am > by the way putting in new crash pads around the dash cause my current > ones all of a sudden look shabby. > > Thanks much in advance, > > Brian Lanoway > 1973 TR6 > Winnipeg > _______________________________________________ From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 24 12:05:54 2008 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 14:05:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A References: Message-ID: Thought I would let everybody know - after a pretty exhaustive web search I was able to locate some Kumho 165/80R15's (good price, 3 day shipping). If anyone is interested, let me know and I will forward the link. Thanks for all the responses. Glenn From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 24 12:37:14 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 11:37:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01cf01c85ec0$85ada2a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Thought I would let everybody know - after a pretty > exhaustive web search I > was able to locate some Kumho 165/80R15's (good price, 3 day > shipping). If > anyone is interested, let me know and I will forward the link. Seems like a very popular topic here ... why not just post to the list ? Randall From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 24 12:55:43 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 12:55:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Door measurements References: <0B5F4532EB115E46920BDC5FE7938FFA063C7D54@semlm-exch.tlogic.telelogic.com> Message-ID: <008a01c85ec3$1aa34340$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Knowing Suzie, I suspect that she brings as many parts in the house as Guy does. She's a real Spitfire Gal! Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Knowles" To: ; ; ; Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 12:39 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] Door measurements > Now there's a proper woman who allows car parts in the living room....... > I vote Suzie for Wife of the year award! Guy's a lucky guy! > Jamie From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 24 13:34:52 2008 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 15:34:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A References: <01cf01c85ec0$85ada2a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Didn't know what list policy was about that - here is the link (eBay store vendor) http://search.stores.ebay.com/Buy-Wheels-Today_kumho-165-80R15_W0QQfciZ7QQfclZ3QQfsnZBuyQ20WheelsQ20TodayQQfsooZ1QQfsopZ3QQsaselZ103219892QQsatitleZkumhoQ20165Q2f80R15QQsofpZ0 or if that doesn't work Tiny URL: http://tiny.cc/o1UmE According to the site, there are 43 tires available. Buy separately or 4 for a reduced price. (BTW - many online vendors show the tire available, in stock, etc. All that I talked to on the phone said they don't have them, can't get them.) Glenn > >> Thought I would let everybody know - after a pretty >> exhaustive web search I >> was able to locate some Kumho 165/80R15's (good price, 3 day >> shipping). If >> anyone is interested, let me know and I will forward the link. > > Seems like a very popular topic here ... why not just post to the list ? > > Randall From triumph66 at gmail.com Thu Jan 24 15:52:19 2008 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 17:52:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Authentic choke cable, TR4 In-Reply-To: <01a901c85ea5$1ddf08f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <76E5584E-48C6-4E1C-9297-5D124915E78A@comcast.net> <01a901c85ea5$1ddf08f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Brian, I had the same problem. Upon the suggestion of some other TR guys here in PA, I now use a T-handle MGB, 70-74, choke handle setup on my 4A. I believe it works and locks really well IMHO. HTH, Ted T-handle MGB, 70-74 choke handle setup http://www.zeni.net/trf/MGB-GC/index.php?menu=C&page=42 vs. traditional TR250/TR6 choke setup http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/39.php or the TR4 choke setup http://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR4/11.php On Jan 24, 2008 11:21 AM, Randall wrote: > > Is there a source for a TR4-correct choke cable that reliably locks? > > I bought an aftermarket TR3 cable from Moss almost 20 years ago, and it > still works. Had a fixed knob that didn't exactly match the original, but > after rounding the corners a bit with sandpaper, it looks at home. And > the > twist-lock works quite well. > > > Or can the locking mechanism on an old cable be 'refreshed'. > > Depends on what is wrong with it. I've fixed at least one cable that I > think might be original to a Triumph, by fabricating a replacement for the > part that locks to the shaft. It was just a "D" shaped piece of flat > brass > and the original one was worn out. The shaft was also worn, so I made the > new piece a bit oversize to compensate. > > Randall > -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO http://www.triumphowners.com/967 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jan 24 16:17:09 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 16:17:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Authentic choke cable, TR4 In-Reply-To: <01a901c85ea5$1ddf08f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <76E5584E-48C6-4E1C-9297-5D124915E78A@comcast.net> <01a901c85ea5$1ddf08f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <19C3A4BCD8A34D5E945E871A2EFB1259@GeoPC> A problem with the original cables & the repros is that if you withdraw the knob & cable too far (a foot or so should do it) that little D-shaped piece Randall describes can fall out. It is so tiny many folk never realized they have lost something, but they soon discover that their knob doesn't lock. I too have made the piece (proof positive that it is dead easy) though this task is much simpler if you have a good one to use as a guide. It's sort of like the smallest woodruff key you can imagine. As I recall, it fits in a slot that is under that springy metal band. With the cable full in you slide the band back, insert this D-piece and then return the band to where it was... and DON'T pull the cable way out again. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" > > Depends on what is wrong with it. I've fixed at least one cable that I > think might be original to a Triumph, by fabricating a replacement for the > part that locks to the shaft. It was just a "D" shaped piece of flat > brass > and the original one was worn out. The shaft was also worn, so I made the > new piece a bit oversize to compensate. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jan 24 16:20:59 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 16:20:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? In-Reply-To: <01a801c85ea3$90f49f50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <01a801c85ea3$90f49f50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <8C9B763A65334A78B8435FC1A31B3648@GeoPC> Amen to that. That white 'paint' is so fragile I think you could sneeze and blow the letters off. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" > > The luminous paint on the faces is very fragile, and water soluble. Don't > get it wet. From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Jan 24 17:29:49 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 16:29:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? In-Reply-To: <002901c85e9f$9890da20$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <002901c85e9f$9890da20$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <47992D7D.6040005@comcast.net> I am currently refurbishing the 50 year old gauges from my TR3. The chrome bezels were indeed stuck to the internal gaskets that trap the glass. I found that using some small tipped needle nose pliers allowed me to work the bezels loose without damaging the gaskets. I had to gently squeeze with the pliers between the slot in the gauge body and the adjacent bezel tab, progressively working my way around each of the tabs until the bezel finally broke free from the gasket. It took several times around before the bezels would begin to move. The gaskets were still soft a flexible so I have been re-using them as I put the gauges back together. Mike Joe Curry wrote: > The best way to clean the chrome gauge bezels is to remove them and use a > good chrome polish or a nild auto finish polishing compound. > > That said, it is often the case that the rings won't easily come off because > time and the weather has caused the gaskets to be perminantly attached to > the bezels. That would mean that once you do get them off, you will have to > replace those seals. I don't know if they are easily obtainable. > > Joe C. From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Jan 24 17:33:13 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 16:33:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? In-Reply-To: <8C9B763A65334A78B8435FC1A31B3648@GeoPC> References: <01a801c85ea3$90f49f50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <8C9B763A65334A78B8435FC1A31B3648@GeoPC> Message-ID: <47992E49.4050704@comcast.net> Wow, I was very tempted to wash my gauge faces but opted not to as I was afraid of damaging the paint. I am glad that I didn't try. Thanks for heads up! Mike Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > Amen to that. That white 'paint' is so fragile I think you could sneeze and > blow the letters off. > > Geo > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randall" > >> The luminous paint on the faces is very fragile, and water soluble. Don't >> get it wet. From supertr6 at earthlink.net Thu Jan 24 17:56:45 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 19:56:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <479933CD.5020805@earthlink.net> I used pledge on my gauge faces about 10 years ago and they still look new. The rings on my gauges are black so I used Rust Oleum Satin Black. I used standard windex and newspaper and the glass. Joe 72 TR-6 Lanoway, Brian wrote: > I've got all the gauges out of my TR6 as I get ready to install my new > Prestige Autowood dash. The new dash is so damned nice that I'm now > highly motivated to make sure everything I put into it doesn't detract > from this work of art. > > Any tips on cleaning the chrome rings, gauge faces, glass etc. on my TR6 > gauges? Are there any products that are well suited to this? Is there > anything else I should consider before I install my new wood dash? I am > by the way putting in new crash pads around the dash cause my current > ones all of a sudden look shabby. > > Thanks much in advance, > > Brian Lanoway > 1973 TR6 > Winnipeg > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From 6parts at charter.net Thu Jan 24 18:10:31 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 20:10:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Overdrive Transmission TR6 Message-ID: <009f01c85eef$15012390$03d30c47@alan> I am just finishing swaping overdrive transmissions and motors I am swaping a OD tran from a 74 into a 76. There seems to be an extra wire on the 74 thats not on my 76. They both have a green/yellow & green/red & a green. They 74 has an extra green that I am not sure where it would go . Tomorrow, I'll be topping the motor with oil and anti freeze and firing it up and putting the hood back on. This will be 6 years of using the purple brake and clutch stuff. I've replaced the brake master cylinder in that time, but it was of unknown age. I chalk it up to being due to old age and not because of fluid change. I have also replaced other brake parts for piece of mind because of unknown condition and the fact that its a daily driver and I hate being stranded. Cheers. Al From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Thu Jan 24 18:12:31 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 20:12:31 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? Message-ID: Yep, never touch the face of any older gauge, even with a paper towel as it will leave a mark. The glass can be cleaned with 3M " Finess-it" . This is a super fine paint buffing compound that works well on glass, plastic tail light lenses. The trim rings can be given a final cleaning with finess it also. Harold ************** Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0030000000 2548) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 24 18:33:40 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 17:33:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] Overdrive Transmission TR6 In-Reply-To: <009f01c85eef$15012390$03d30c47@alan> References: <009f01c85eef$15012390$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <022b01c85ef2$5099c350$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > They both have a green/yellow & green/red & a green. They > 74 has an extra > green that I am not sure where it would > go . Taking a quick look at Dan Master's excellent TR6 schematics, I would guess that's one of the wires for the neutral interlock switch. He shows a solid green that is daisy-chained to the backup light switch, and a green/light green (what a crazy combination of colors) from the other side of the neutral switch to the seat belt module. Since the 76 didn't have the neutral interlock, I'd just remove the extra wire & ignore it's switch. Randall From 6parts at charter.net Thu Jan 24 18:35:38 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 20:35:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Overdrive Transmission TR6 References: <107153.94981.qm@web43133.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00b001c85ef2$97712390$03d30c47@alan> Oh, Scoffer Upper of all things Triumph, I have consulted the Grand Triumph Book of Wisdom and I haven't come up with this wire. I will continue to research. Cheers, Al www.triumphowners.com/624 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Bermudez" To: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net>; ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:29 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Overdrive Transmission TR6 > Oh great master of the bling... > > Figure one is gonna be for the reverse & 1 for the top > cover switch & 1 for power...consult the book of > armaments...er I mean, the Bentley Manual > > Toad > > > --- Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> wrote: > >> I am just finishing swaping overdrive transmissions >> and motors >> >> I am swaping a OD tran from a 74 into a 76. >> >> There seems to be an extra wire on the 74 thats not >> on my 76. >> >> They both have a green/yellow & green/red & a >> green. They 74 has an extra >> green that I am not sure where it would >> go . >> >> Tomorrow, I'll be topping the motor with oil and >> anti freeze and firing it up >> and putting the hood back on. >> >> This will be 6 years of using the purple brake and >> clutch stuff. I've >> replaced the brake master cylinder in that time, >> but it was of unknown age. I chalk it up to being >> due to old age and not >> because of fluid change. >> I have also replaced other brake parts for piece of >> mind because of unknown >> condition and the fact that its a daily driver >> and I hate being stranded. >> >> Cheers. >> >> Al From 6parts at charter.net Thu Jan 24 18:38:43 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 20:38:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Overdrive Transmission TR6 References: <009f01c85eef$15012390$03d30c47@alan> <022b01c85ef2$5099c350$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <00b501c85ef3$057cada0$03d30c47@alan> Randall, I didn't look in my Dan Masters. That makes sense. Thanks Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Alan Salvatore'" <6parts at charter.net>; Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:33 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Overdrive Transmission TR6 >> They both have a green/yellow & green/red & a green. They >> 74 has an extra >> green that I am not sure where it would >> go . > > Taking a quick look at Dan Master's excellent TR6 schematics, I would > guess > that's one of the wires for the neutral interlock switch. He shows a > solid > green that is daisy-chained to the backup light switch, and a green/light > green (what a crazy combination of colors) from the other side of the > neutral switch to the seat belt module. > > Since the 76 didn't have the neutral interlock, I'd just remove the extra > wire & ignore it's switch. > > Randall > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.11/1242 - Release Date: > 1/24/2008 8:32 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 24 18:44:02 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 17:44:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tyres for a TR4A In-Reply-To: References: <01cf01c85ec0$85ada2a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <022c01c85ef3$c333b9b0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Didn't know what list policy was about that I don't believe there is any specific policy for private individuals talking about businesses (other than being related to Triumphs). General "vendor bashing" is frowned upon, but good experiences (and even specific bad ones) are allowed/encouraged. And even vendors are allowed to post about parts they can supply, when someone says they are looking for them. > - here is the link (eBay store vendor) Thanks, Glenn. Randall 58 TR3A TS39781LO :(now totaled :( 56 TR3 TS13571L next project 71 Stag LE1473L waiting for engine rebuild 71 Stag LE2014LBW daily driver wanna-be From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Thu Jan 24 19:40:13 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 21:40:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Extra ground wire on early TR4 Message-ID: <002801c85efb$9fd9c330$0301a8c0@chuck> Listers, I've been working on the wiring on an early TR4 (1962) and have come upon a snag. I'm installing a new Moss wiring harness and at the extreme end of the harness at the wiper motor, there is an extra double black wire going into a single female spade connector that I can't identify. Where does it go? There is already a ground wire in the harness going to the wiper motor and there are no extra male spade connectors anywhere to be found. There are no other loose wires at this end of the harness. Any ideas of what the extra ground wire is for? Am I missing a needed ground connection somewhere? Thanks for any suggestions. Chuck White From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jan 24 20:42:31 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 20:42:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Extra ground wire on early TR4 In-Reply-To: <002801c85efb$9fd9c330$0301a8c0@chuck> References: <002801c85efb$9fd9c330$0301a8c0@chuck> Message-ID: On mine (1964) a double black wire appears there but ends with a ring terminal that is attached to one of the mounting bolts for the wiper base (the bolt nearest the master cylinders). Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "C E White" > > I've been working on the wiring on an early TR4 (1962) and have come upon > a > snag. I'm installing a new Moss wiring harness and at the extreme end of > the harness at the wiper motor, there is an extra double black wire going > into a single female spade connector that I can't identify. From 60TR3A at cox.net Fri Jan 25 15:35:14 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 15:35:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] courtesy lights - TR3 Message-ID: <28686A08-D3C4-4005-9F8E-C571B542AF46@cox.net> I would like to put some interior lights in the TR3 and probably one each in the trunk & engine bay. For the trunk & engine bay I thought I would use those lights with the mercury switches in them. For the interior, my question is what type of switch has anyone used. I would rather not drill holes in the door frame. Any suggestions? Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From CarlSereda at aol.com Fri Jan 25 16:19:29 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 18:19:29 EST Subject: [TR] TR4 license plate position Message-ID: Unadulterated U.S.TR4/4A, owners: For some reason on my TR4 I have 7 drilled holes in the rear trunk lid in the license plate area. I installed this used trunk lid around 1980 after a hit 'n run left me with severe damage. Getting ready to weld at least 5 of these holes closed, and want to ensure I have the 2 remaining drilled holes in the right spot for my license and amco rack. Can you please tell me the height of your 2 bolts from bottom edge of trunk lid (center of bolt head to bottom edge of lid)? Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ************** Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0030000000 2548) From steven at newellboys.com Fri Jan 25 16:41:59 2008 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 16:41:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 license plate position In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <479A73C7.3060107@newellboys.com> CarlSereda at aol.com wrote: >Unadulterated U.S.TR4/4A, owners: >For some reason on my TR4 I have 7 drilled holes in the rear trunk lid in the >license plate area. I installed this used trunk lid around 1980 after a hit >'n run left me with severe damage. Getting ready to weld at least 5 of these >holes closed, and want to ensure I have the 2 remaining drilled holes in the >right spot for my license and amco rack. Can you please tell me the height of >your 2 bolts from bottom edge of trunk lid (center of bolt head to bottom edge >of lid? > My TR4, still warm from the first top-down drive of the new year on a balmy 45F day, measures 8 1/4" from the lower edge of the bootlid to the center of the bolt head. Steven PS I saw a new MINI convertible enjoying the fresh air today; must be a real British car after all. From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Jan 25 16:58:44 2008 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 18:58:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 license plate position In-Reply-To: <479A73C7.3060107@newellboys.com> References: <479A73C7.3060107@newellboys.com> Message-ID: <6fa72a770801251558o5e72ae72t3f02d33b04d5504c@mail.gmail.com> I have 2 sets of holes - the car was originally imported into Germany so I suspect they drilled holes for their style of plate for the time Somewhere I have a hand made adaptor plate but had to abandon that when I mounted the stainless steel luggage rack that needed liscence plates holes to mount. The holes I drilled are in close proximity to the holes that Steven mentioned. From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Jan 25 19:27:34 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 21:27:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002c01c85fc3$034787a0$a2463b47@Scott> End Dust does a nice job on the gauge face. This leaves a nice deep face to the black and repels dust. It does not dry out and retains this look for years. Wipe it on with a clean cloth just before you reassemble the glass. End Dust has no polish in its formula so you get no wax residue. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lanoway, Brian Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 10:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? I've got all the gauges out of my TR6 as I get ready to install my new Prestige Autowood dash. The new dash is so damned nice that I'm now highly motivated to make sure everything I put into it doesn't detract from this work of art. Any tips on cleaning the chrome rings, gauge faces, glass etc. on my TR6 gauges? Are there any products that are well suited to this? Is there anything else I should consider before I install my new wood dash? I am by the way putting in new crash pads around the dash cause my current ones all of a sudden look shabby. Thanks much in advance, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as suhringtr36 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Jan 25 19:28:19 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 21:28:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? Message-ID: <002d01c85fc3$1d8adb80$a2463b47@Scott> End Dust does a nice job on the gauge face. This leaves a nice deep face to the black and repels dust. It does not dry out and retains this look for years. Wipe it on with a clean cloth just before you reassemble the glass. End Dust has no polish in its formula so you get no wax residue. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lanoway, Brian Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 10:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge cleaning - any advice? I've got all the gauges out of my TR6 as I get ready to install my new Prestige Autowood dash. The new dash is so damned nice that I'm now highly motivated to make sure everything I put into it doesn't detract from this work of art. Any tips on cleaning the chrome rings, gauge faces, glass etc. on my TR6 gauges? Are there any products that are well suited to this? Is there anything else I should consider before I install my new wood dash? I am by the way putting in new crash pads around the dash cause my current ones all of a sudden look shabby. Thanks much in advance, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg From mlang99 at comcast.net Fri Jan 25 21:33:14 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 20:33:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Lucas Switches Message-ID: <479AB80A.7000207@comcast.net> We have recently been on the topic of cleaning gauges, how about switches? I am getting ready to clean the switches for my TR3, most of which I am sure have not seen current in 30 some odd years. Any tips or things to watch out for? I am armed with CRC contact cleaner and CRC dielectric grease but haven't started the process yet. A couple of them (such as the brightness control for the panel lights) have blind push buttons for attaching the knobs and the buttons are stuck pressed in. Any tips for getting them to pop back out? The ones with the exposed springs on the opposite side are not a problem. Thanks, Mike From thomas309 at aol.com Sat Jan 26 00:07:01 2008 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 02:07:01 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 for sale...NFI Message-ID: _http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/551873118.html_ (http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/551873118.html) I just spotted this on CT craigslist. Not mine, and NFI. Tom **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Jan 26 08:42:05 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 10:42:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 for sale...NFI In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Fred. I will show that to my wife. It might convince her that ours is not the only back yard that has these jewels resting in it:) Marty > From: thomas309 at aol.com > Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 02:07:01 -0500 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR3 for sale...NFI > > _http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/551873118.html_ > (http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/551873118.html) > > I just spotted this on CT craigslist. Not mine, and NFI. Tom > > > > **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. > (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp00300000 0025 > 48) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 26 10:38:30 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 09:38:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Lucas Switches In-Reply-To: <479AB80A.7000207@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080126173828.YOYM3079.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > I am getting ready to clean the switches for my TR3, most of > which I am sure have not seen current in 30 some odd years. > Any tips or things to watch out for? I am armed with CRC > contact cleaner and CRC dielectric grease but haven't started > the process yet. Dielectric grease isn't such a good thing around switch contacts, so I'd just use the contact cleaner. Unless testing shows a problem, I wouldn't disassemble them. Just squirt in some contact cleaner and work the switch back and forth a few times. Leave the sealed switches sealed. My wiper switch is still the original AFAIK and still works fine. > A couple of them (such as the brightness control for the panel > lights) have blind push buttons for attaching the knobs and the > buttons are stuck pressed in. Any tips for getting them to pop back out? Squirt some of your favorite penetrating oil (eg PB Blaster) on them and let soak for a few days. Then try to work the button in and out. If it's all the way in and has no play whatsoever, probably the easiest thing is to look for another switch. I've seen several where the spring inside has rusted and broken. You could try drilling a tiny hole and pushing on the button from the other side ... Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Jan 26 11:06:15 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 10:06:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Lucas Switches In-Reply-To: <20080126173828.YOYM3079.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20080126173828.YOYM3079.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <479B7697.7080709@comcast.net> Randall, > Dielectric grease isn't such a good thing around switch contacts, so I'd > just use the contact cleaner. > The primary one that I was thinking about using the dielectric grease on is the headlight switch which appears to have sliding contacts. It looks as if it was greased originally. I gather that you wouldn't recommend grease in this one either? > Unless testing shows a problem, I wouldn't disassemble them. Just squirt in > some contact cleaner and work the switch back and forth a few times. Leave > the sealed switches sealed. My wiper switch is still the original AFAIK and > still works fine. > > I had wondered how reliable they were and if I should try to disassemble them for cleaning. > Squirt some of your favorite penetrating oil (eg PB Blaster) on them and let > soak for a few days. Then try to work the button in and out. If it's all > the way in and has no play whatsoever, probably the easiest thing is to look > for another switch. I've seen several where the spring inside has rusted > and broken. You could try drilling a tiny hole and pushing on the button > from the other side ... > I have already treated them with PB Blaster. As a last resort, drilling the tiny hole is an excellent idea. About the only risk would be snagging the spring and damaging it, but after all it would be the last resort. Thanks! Mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 26 11:27:26 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 10:27:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Lucas Switches In-Reply-To: <479B7697.7080709@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080126182725.VMQG14013.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > > Dielectric grease isn't such a good thing around switch > contacts, so > > I'd just use the contact cleaner. > > > The primary one that I was thinking about using the > dielectric grease on is the headlight switch which appears to > have sliding contacts. It looks as if it was greased > originally. I gather that you wouldn't recommend grease in > this one either? Good contact cleaner will leave a lubricating film behind. "Dielectric" grease is designed to be an insulator, so not really the thing you want on moving switch contacts. It only works on fixed connections by squeezing out of the contact area, and keeping air away from it (to prevent corrosion). > I had wondered how reliable they were and if I should try to > disassemble them for cleaning. I believe only the headlight, ignition and heater switches have been replaced on my 59 TR3A. The headlight switch serves as a fuse for the headlights so it's been replaced every time there was a short (until I finally added relays and fuses). The ignition switch simply wore out, and the heater control rusted away. The dash light, wiper and starter switches have never been disturbed; but I did disassemble & clean the OD switch once thinking it was intermittent. Problem turned out to be the relay though, so it's doubtful the switch actually needed the attention. Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Jan 26 12:15:14 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 11:15:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Lucas Switches In-Reply-To: <20080126182725.VMQG14013.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20080126182725.VMQG14013.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <479B86C2.7010305@comcast.net> Randall, > I believe only the headlight, ignition and heater switches have been > replaced on my 59 TR3A. The headlight switch serves as a fuse for the > headlights so it's been replaced every time there was a short (until I > finally added relays and fuses). The ignition switch simply wore out, and > the heater control rusted away. The dash light, wiper and starter switches > have never been disturbed; but I did disassemble & clean the OD switch once > thinking it was intermittent. Problem turned out to be the relay though, so > it's doubtful the switch actually needed the attention. > > I had wondered what the weakest link was in the headlight circuit. I plan to build my own custom harness using a modern fuse block, relays in the headlight and horn circuits, 60 Amp alternator, etc. I do have two sets of switches from both cars so I have extras to sort through, hopefully coming up with one good set. Thanks again, Mike From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Jan 26 12:41:12 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 14:41:12 EST Subject: [TR] Hertz --- Rent a TR4A Message-ID: Hey Guys and Gals, Bill Lynn VTR Membership Secretary, has sent Beverly and I a bunch of Triumph Memorabilia to organize for him. Did you know? Some time after 1961, "In a deal with Hertz, TR4As became part of their rental fleet and the Hertz Sports Car Club which offered membership to renters who took their brief course on how to drive a sports car before renting a Corvette, Mustang GT or Triumph. The 18-city deal worked out okay for automatic two-seaters but created a big problem for Triumph's warranty department in the gearbox area. Not too many Hertz customers were familiar with four speeds." written by Mike Cook, British Car Magazine, December 1992. ( Mike is the current VTR TVT Editor) Bill has a bunch of really good stuff here. I will report as I can. Cheers, Darrell **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 26 14:14:36 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:14:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 license plate position In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200801261614.37586.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 25 January 2008 06:19 pm, CarlSereda at aol.com wrote: > Unadulterated U.S.TR4/4A, owners: > For some reason on my TR4 I have 7 drilled holes in the rear trunk lid in > the license plate area. I installed this used trunk lid around 1980 after a > hit 'n run left me with severe damage. Getting ready to weld at least 5 of > these holes closed, and want to ensure I have the 2 remaining drilled holes > in the right spot for my license and amco rack. Can you please tell me the > height of your 2 bolts from bottom edge of trunk lid (center of bolt head > to bottom edge of > lid)? > Regards, > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 Carl, Just to confirm, just measured my 63 TR4 and as Steven noted 8 1/4 inches from the bottom edge. But it is in the mid 20s here. Bob From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sat Jan 26 13:38:52 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 15:38:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine/Gearbox for sale: NFI Message-ID: <005301c8605b$7683f8f0$670fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> I was offered a Triumph TR4 engine and gearbox recently by a non-technical (both auto and internet) acquaintance. I cannot justify buying the engine and gearbox (I know the trans will fit the TR6) and it needs to go to a good (aka TR4) home. It is located off I-23 just south of Arbor, Michigan. It cannot be shipped, and the pick up will require some muscle ... it is the middle of a dry but very full garden shed! The engine appears complete less the carbs. It has a chrome rocker cover, and the sump doesn't appear dented. It looked OK without any signs of damage or water leaks. It did have the patina of a Triumph engine that has leaked oil in normal quantities, that has acted as a preservative during its time in dry storage. It has the dist. and, I think, generator and starter. The gearbox is a non-OD unit, and appears clean and complete with gear lever and rear mount. Engine and gearbox are still assembled. Beyond the above, I cannot tell you anything more, and nor can the current owner .. it was purchased by a long departed boyfriend and his TR4, and she is moving house and wants it gone. If this is of any interest, please relay messages, approx. price you'd be willing to pay and contact info., etc to me off the list so I can pass it on. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sat Jan 26 17:14:18 2008 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:14:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale Message-ID: <004b01c8607c$85a62ad0$8701a8c0@Dell> There is a TR6 for sale in Palo Alto, CA. It's advertised on the club web site: http://www.triumphtravelers.org/marketplace.php I know no more about the car than what's posted here, but if anyone is intersted in it and wants me to take a closer look and more pictures, I will be happy to do so. Bob From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Jan 26 17:55:28 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:55:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Lucas Switches In-Reply-To: <479B86C2.7010305@comcast.net> References: <20080126182725.VMQG14013.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> <479B86C2.7010305@comcast.net> Message-ID: <479BD680.2040300@comcast.net> Randall, Was the technique of freeing the knob push buttons by drilling a hole, an old Lucas switch trick, or did you come up with that one on the fly? It worked great. I was able to free the push buttons in both my panel dimmer and head light switch. By the way, one of my two head light switches was toast! Mike From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Jan 26 19:01:57 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 21:01:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party 2008 Message-ID: I see on the TRF web site that they have announced June 19,20,21 as the dates for this years Summer Party. No details on events though. If they bring back some past events team Sukey will be there for sure. Already have our room. Marty _________________________________________________________________ Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail.-get your "fix". http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Jan 26 19:57:33 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 02:57:33 -0000 Subject: [TR] Hertz --- Rent a TR4A References: Message-ID: <003901c86090$5de205f0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Darrell Foyd wrote: > The 18-city deal worked out okay for automatic two-seaters but created > a big problem for Triumph's warranty department in the gearbox area. Not > too many Hertz customers were familiar with four speeds." Darrell, casting my mind back to my Export Sales days in London, I can confirm Mike Cook's statement. I'd go one step further in saying the majority of aspiring owners from your side of the pond weren't much good in the gearbox area either. I still wonder how long the box in our 1968 US spec demo car lasted after we sold it. Mostly, the gears were changed without the clutch and I still recall wincing when a lady wanting to buy that very car asked me, "what the hell's that extra pedal on the left for and why is this goddamned shifter making such a racket?" She did buy it - and two days later as I waved her off, she yelled, "you sure I'll get used to this stick shift?" Jonmac From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Sat Jan 26 19:57:56 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 21:57:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Extra ground wire on early TR4 In-Reply-To: <002801c85efb$9fd9c330$0301a8c0@chuck> Message-ID: <000201c86090$6ece2560$0301a8c0@chuck> Thanks everyone. The consensus was that the double black wires are grounded through a ring connector to the 1/4" wiper motor mounting bolt nearest the master cylinders. No mention was made as to what they are grounding. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: autox.team.net On Behalf Of C E White Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 9:40 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Extra ground wire on early TR4 Listers, I've been working on the wiring on an early TR4 (1962) and have come upon a snag. I'm installing a new Moss wiring harness and at the extreme end of the harness at the wiper motor, there is an extra double black wire going into a single female spade connector that I can't identify. Where does it go? There is already a ground wire in the harness going to the wiper motor and there are no extra male spade connectors anywhere to be found. There are no other loose wires at this end of the harness. Any ideas of what the extra ground wire is for? Am I missing a needed ground connection somewhere? Thanks for any suggestions. Chuck White From GRMTim at aol.com Tue Jan 15 12:25:30 2008 From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 14:25:30 EST Subject: [TR] Free supercharger Message-ID: Guys, Wanted to give you guys first shot at this. Thought it would be of interest to you. Full supercharger install story as well as comparable performance upgrades in the March issue of our magazine. Tim Suddard Publisher; Classic Motorsports and Grassroots Motorsports magazines www.classicmotorsports.net www.grassrootsmotorsports.com Phone: (386) 673-4148 Fax: (386) 673-6040 Win a Moss Supercharger FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Jan. 15, 2008 b ORMOND BEACH, Fla. Donbt let big SUVs kick sand all over your little British car b what you need is some muscle, and Classic Motorsports is here to Charles Atlas-ize one lucky driverbsB classic. Thanks to the generosity of the fine folks at Moss Motors, webre giving away a Moss supercharger kit. The winner can take their choice of kits for the MGA, 1965-1980 MGB, 1275 MG Midget/Austin-Healey Sprite, Triumph TR250 or TriumphB TR6. Webve seen first-hand how the Moss supercharger kit transforms a classic: In the March issue of Classic Motorsports we spill all the juicy details of installing a Moss supercharger in a 1976 Triumph TR6. It nearly doubled the horsepower while keeping the carbs classic demeanor intact. These kits are like Viagra with a Red Bull chaser for your agingB classic. The contest starts Wednesday, Jan. 16 and a winner will be chosen at random at the end of April. Donbt let your classic be the weakling on the road this summer b go to http://classicmotorsports.net/supercharger/ to enter our Moss Motors supercharger kitsB giveaway. To get a free copy of the March issue of Classic Motorsports with the TR6 supercharger installation story, go to http://classicmotorsports.net/try/moss/ by JanuaryB 30. For more information on the Moss supercharger kits, go to the Moss Motors web site: http://mossmotors.com. Classic Motorsports, now in its 20th year of publication, is the hands-on magazine for the classic sports car enthusiast who appreciates the past but lives in the present. Anyone interested in obtaining a free sample of Classic Motorsports can request one through our Web site, http://classicmotorsports.net. For quicker service, please call the magazinebs offices at (800) 520-8292. ### ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 26 21:43:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 20:43:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Lucas Switches In-Reply-To: <479BD680.2040300@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080127044338.VHDK3079.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > Was the technique of freeing the knob push buttons by > drilling a hole, an old Lucas switch trick, or did you come > up with that one on the fly? Just made it up on the fly ... never had the problem myself. But it's reasonably standard practice in similar situations (eg broken taper pin in the clutch). > By the way, one of my two head light switches was toast! I'm impressed that one was good ! Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Jan 27 11:30:41 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 13:30:41 EST Subject: [TR] Sixe's Strommies acting up? Message-ID: Hey Guys, Weekend warrior here battling a running fault on the 71 TR6. I was fighting an idling problem last Fall. The motor would stall if I popped the throttle and let it brake down to idle. Pretty much every time which made going slow around turns an adventure. These are the Strommies that I had the needle valve problems on. First one was stuck open then one stuck closed. I also fooled with the float levels some to prevent running out of gas on Sharpe right hand turns. I have had this before on the 250 but never the Six. She would always purr like a Kitten @ 800 revs. Now I have to turn the idle up considerably to keep her running. Before I tear into it, any words of wisdom? Thanks, Darrell **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From trglory at comcast.net Sun Jan 27 13:20:46 2008 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 15:20:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sixe's Strommies acting up? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003d01c86122$1a1d2880$4e577980$@net> Hey Darrell; I'm sure you already checked the diaphragms. Before you start tearing everything apart, use the old propane test to see if you have any leaks. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 1:31 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Sixe's Strommies acting up? Hey Guys, Weekend warrior here battling a running fault on the 71 TR6. I was fighting an idling problem last Fall. The motor would stall if I popped the throttle and let it brake down to idle. Pretty much every time which made going slow around turns an adventure. These are the Strommies that I had the needle valve problems on. First one was stuck open then one stuck closed. I also fooled with the float levels some to prevent running out of gas on Sharpe right hand turns. I have had this before on the 250 but never the Six. She would always purr like a Kitten @ 800 revs. Now I have to turn the idle up considerably to keep her running. Before I tear into it, any words of wisdom? Thanks, Darrell No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.12/1245 - Release Date: 1/26/2008 3:45 PM From triumphstag at gmail.com Sun Jan 27 14:06:11 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 13:06:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] Free RHS Stag dash in the US Message-ID: I have a dash for a RHD Stag that I don't need. It is the black vinyl part no the wood. The vinyl is cracked in places. Not sure if anyone State side wants, but just checking before it go the the city dump. Let me know and I provide more details. Sujit From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Jan 27 15:44:08 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 17:44:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Lucas Switches In-Reply-To: <479AB80A.7000207@comcast.net> References: <479AB80A.7000207@comcast.net> Message-ID: <479D0938.40800@earthlink.net> Check to make sure the CRC you use will not harm plastic. I've heard some horror stories. Joe Michael Lang wrote: > We have recently been on the topic of cleaning gauges, how about switches? > > I am getting ready to clean the switches for my TR3, most of which I am > sure have not seen current in 30 some odd years. Any tips or things to > watch out for? I am armed with CRC contact cleaner and CRC dielectric > grease but haven't started the process yet. > > A couple of them (such as the brightness control for the panel lights) > have blind push buttons for attaching the knobs and the buttons are > stuck pressed in. Any tips for getting them to pop back out? The ones > with the exposed springs on the opposite side are not a problem. > > Thanks, > > Mike From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Jan 27 16:07:36 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 18:07:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 front bumper parts needed Message-ID: <000801c86139$692a2920$5918e247@DCS78M81> I just got the 60 TR3 in and am in the process of bringing her back into driving condition. I need the following front bumper parts: The bumper brackets that go to the frame and the "chanel" bracket that goes outside the bumper bracket where it bolts to the frame. Moss parts numbers 802-560 802-550 and 2 of the 802-540. Any and all help would be appreciated. TIA Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag From mlang99 at comcast.net Sun Jan 27 17:06:13 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 16:06:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wrong TR3 starter/flywheel combinations? Message-ID: <479D1C75.6070605@comcast.net> I have both read and heard that the pre TS50000 cars had a shrunk on flywheel that used a shrouded starter and the post TS50000 cars had a bolt on ring gear and used an open ended starter that has the bendix spring on the end of the shaft. I was just preparing to rebuild a starter for my project car and found the both of the cars that I have had bolt on ring gears and shrouded starters. Neither car ran when I got them so I don't know if either of the starters worked. Am I misunderstanding something or do I indeed have an incorrect starter/flywheel combination on both cars? If they are wrong, it looks like I am in the market for either a flywheel or starter. One of the two starters looks to be either fairly new or freshly rebuilt. Anyone interested in a swap? Mike From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sun Jan 27 18:42:35 2008 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 17:42:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wrong TR3 starter/flywheel combinations? References: <479D1C75.6070605@comcast.net> Message-ID: <007a01c8614f$9b7d7420$8701a8c0@Dell> Mike, I don't think you are misunderstanding anything. Our club might have a later starter in the spare parts larder. http://www.triumphtravelers.org/marketplace.php Call Bud on (925) 935-5477 Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Lang" To: "triumph list" Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 4:06 PM Subject: [TR] Wrong TR3 starter/flywheel combinations? >I have both read and heard that the pre TS50000 cars had a shrunk on > flywheel that used a shrouded starter and the post TS50000 cars had a > bolt on ring gear and used an open ended starter that has the bendix > spring on the end of the shaft. > > I was just preparing to rebuild a starter for my project car and found > the both of the cars that I have had bolt on ring gears and shrouded > starters. Neither car ran when I got them so I don't know if either of > the starters worked. > > Am I misunderstanding something or do I indeed have an incorrect > starter/flywheel combination on both cars? > > If they are wrong, it looks like I am in the market for either a > flywheel or starter. One of the two starters looks to be either fairly > new or freshly rebuilt. Anyone interested in a swap? > > Mike > _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 27 19:11:07 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 18:11:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wrong TR3 starter/flywheel combinations? In-Reply-To: <479D1C75.6070605@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080128021107.HHWH4230.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > If they are wrong, it looks like I am in the market for > either a flywheel or starter. One of the two starters looks > to be either fairly new or freshly rebuilt. Anyone interested > in a swap? Mike, I'm sure we could work out something, if you happen to be on the west coast. But those things are kind of heavy, so if you're east of the Rockies you should probably look for something closer to home. I mostly wrote to point out that the later starters will not fit in early transmissions/bellhousings. You might want to check which you have before looking for a later starter. That said, I would much rather change a starter than a flywheel ... if you do have an early transmission (without the bulge to clear the later starter) then one possible solution is one of the "high tech" gear-drive starters. They are available in both early and late flavors; and the late gear-drive starter will fit inside the early bellhousing. Randall From OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 27 20:16:25 2008 From: OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net (OKCSpitfire) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:16:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Strange noise after swapping out transmissions In-Reply-To: <002b01c85a05$2de9ea20$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <20080128031617.AAF5D1878AF@autox.team.net> Hello listers, Once again looking for a little advice. I took the complete drive train from a 77 Spitfire and placed it in my 76 Spitfire. Installed a new clutch, pressure plate an throwout bearing. Rebuilt the clutch master and slave cylinders. The trans is complete with a j-type overdrive. After completing the job, got the wiring correct thank to the LBC guru's from the forum. The problem is this strange noise when I come to a stop. The car was a daily driver before the swap and did not make this noise. The noise is like a small screw or metal object has fallen into the brake rotor. I noticed it on my first test drive following the swap but my initial thought was the throwout bearing was defective so I pulled the trans again and replaced the bearing. I used a clutch alignment tool to check the alignment and it was good. I replaced the bearing and put the trans back in the car took it for another spin and the same sound was there, secon thought was the finger on the pressure plate but then if the clutch is properly aligned it should be ok. I looked at my rotors anddid not see any foreign material lodged in the calipers or anywhere else. This is very puzzling and if anyone has run across this or has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate any input. Thanks Jerry Stasyszen OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.8/1235 - Release Date: 1/21/2008 9:39 AM From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Jan 27 21:16:59 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 23:16:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] already turned rusty rotors? Message-ID: <018a01c86164$a1285ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Sorry if this is a repeat- as I've changed ISP's. Hi! I am now wondering about my front wheel rotors and my rear brake drums. I can't remember if I've 'turned' them already. I kinda think I did this about 4 years ago, but since they've been stored under a tarp, I can't really tell since their rusty again. Although no distinquishing 'ruts' are on the rotors, I can feel where tracks remain (maybe a 1/32" deep?)? I wonder if they need 'turning' again? what about the rust? Can I use steel wool on it? Thanks, Paul Dorsey '60 TR3 From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sun Jan 27 21:39:29 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 23:39:29 EST Subject: [TR] already turned rusty rotors? Message-ID: In a message dated 1/27/08 11:17:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes: << I wonder if they need 'turning' again? what about the rust? Can I use ste el wool on it? >> Many times this rust can be removed by scraping with a single edge razor blade then following up with fine sand paper or Scotch brite. Steel wool will tend to polish the rust unless it is first removed. Harold ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From mlang99 at comcast.net Sun Jan 27 22:03:54 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:03:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wrong TR3 starter/flywheel combinations? In-Reply-To: <52EF2727FF5943FE95CC271E8B1DC800@GeoPC> References: <479D1C75.6070605@comcast.net> <52EF2727FF5943FE95CC271E8B1DC800@GeoPC> Message-ID: <479D623A.2000607@comcast.net> Thanks everyone for all of the information. I now know more about what I have got. I have two early starters, two early transmissions (one of which has a hole cut in the bell housing to clear a later starter), and two later flywheels. I now see the mis-match between the early starters and the later flywheels. Per Tom's email, I see that the lead-in bevel is on the wrong side of the ring gear for the type of starter that I have. It looks like it would sort of work but probably not for long. I don't think that I want to use the bell housing that has the hole cut in it as it leaves a rather large opening for dirt to enter as well as significantly weakening the area near the starter. Based on Randall's email and the combination of stuff that I have got, it looks like my best option is to start watching for a late gear drive starter. I have observed what appears to be a lot of different adaptations of existing starters on the market. Is there anything that I should watch out for or stay away from? I book marked an early shrouded starter on ebay this evening. I will have to watch and see what it sells for. Maybe I can offset some of the cost of the new starter by selling my old ones. Mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 27 22:31:04 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:31:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] already turned rusty rotors? In-Reply-To: <018a01c86164$a1285ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080128053104.OCBC4230.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Although no distinquishing 'ruts' are on the rotors, I > can feel where tracks remain (maybe a 1/32" deep?)? In that case, they weren't previously turned. > I wonder if they need 'turning' again? what about the > rust? Can I use steel wool on it? IMO, just put them on. The brake pads will clean the rust off quickly. My daughter & her family came down to visit this weekend. When I saw them off this morning, I was somewhat surprised to see very noticeable rust spots on the RF rotor of their van. Just 24 hours of damp weather. But I'm confident it polished off the very first time they used the brakes. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 27 23:35:34 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 23:35:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] already turned rusty rotors? In-Reply-To: <018a01c86164$a1285ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <018a01c86164$a1285ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <004101c86177$fe771a40$6401a8c0@sniffer> Your FLAPS should be able to put them on the lathe and check for runout, then you will know if they need to be turned. Light sanding will take care of the rust. William K. Beecher Beecher Enterprises (435) 654-1818 (435) 503-2258 MOB bill_beecher at flash.net This information is privileged and confidential and is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of this information (including attachments) by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please delete the information from your system and contact the sender. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 9:17 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] already turned rusty rotors? Sorry if this is a repeat- as I've changed ISP's. Hi! I am now wondering about my front wheel rotors and my rear brake drums. I can't remember if I've 'turned' them already. I kinda think I did this about 4 years ago, but since they've been stored under a tarp, I can't really tell since their rusty again. Although no distinquishing 'ruts' are on the rotors, I can feel where tracks remain (maybe a 1/32" deep?)? I wonder if they need 'turning' again? what about the rust? Can I use steel wool on it? Thanks, Paul Dorsey '60 TR3 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.13/1246 - Release Date: 1/27/2008 6:39 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.13/1246 - Release Date: 1/27/2008 6:39 PM From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jan 28 04:52:37 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 06:52:37 EST Subject: [TR] Strange noise after swapping out transmissions Message-ID: How about some more information. Is it when the car comes to a complete stop: slow down; clutch in / out; from standing start; clutch in/out standing still? Base upon what you have written here, IMO the tranny and the noise have nothing to do with each other, but that may change as you offer more onfo. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jan 28 04:59:58 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 06:59:58 EST Subject: [TR] already turned rusty rotors? Message-ID: Paul, If they are already on the car, leave them on, unless the rust you are talking about is pitted rust, then take them off. If they need to be turned you will find out when you drive the car by pedal feel, etc., etc. I would rather leave them on and find out they need to be turned then take them off; rather than take them off and find out they didn't need to be turned. Play the odds in your favor; there is a lot to do! My rotors get rusty from my cars sitting in my garage in Florida. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Jan 28 08:54:14 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 10:54:14 EST Subject: [TR] Wrong TR3 starter/flywheel combinations? Message-ID: In a message dated 1/27/2008 10:03:36 PM Mountain Standard Time, mlang99 at comcast.net writes: I book marked an early shrouded starter on ebay this evening. I will have to watch and see what it sells for. Maybe I can offset some of the cost of the new starter by selling my old ones. Mike Mike, Check out Item number: 250208827750 on ebay. I just got one for my MGB for $177.50...saved nearly $2.50 off the buy it now price! wooowoooo! This fellow has a good reputation on the Spridget list. I'll let you know how the starter works in a week or so. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 28 09:01:22 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 16:01:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] already turned rusty rotors? In-Reply-To: <018a01c86164$a1285ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <018a01c86164$a1285ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Don't use steel wool on the rotors. If the rust is light surface rust install them and let the break pads clean their own surface. If it is heavy rust you should have them turned. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Jan 28 10:44:06 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 12:44:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRF Party Message-ID: <016b01c861d5$61602b80$9b1c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> There will be ==Auto-Crossing== this year at TRF, ==Drag racing not assured as of today, they are still trying. "FT" From CarlSereda at aol.com Mon Jan 28 13:18:19 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 15:18:19 EST Subject: [TR] tr4 trunk plate Message-ID: Thanks guys for your TR4 license plate bolt position measurements (from bottom edge of trunk to centers of top license plate bolts). In general 8 1/4" to 8 3/16" seems to be the range. 2 of my 7 holes are at 8.5" .. so I may need to make two more! (and lower) Thanks again, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From 6parts at charter.net Mon Jan 28 13:43:07 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 15:43:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] engine swap / motor skip Message-ID: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> I finished swaping motors and transmissions Friday. Saturday the car ran real strong, I didn't know a 6 had that much power. The only thing was the valves were clatering. So Sunday I proceed to adjust the valves. They were a bit loose. Bad Move. Should have left well enough alone. Put everything back together, and now its just as doggy as the motor I took out. Actually it seems # 2 cylinder is not firing. I changed plug wires, & spark plugs but still skipping. So I must have screwed up the valve adjusting some how. If the valves were off would that cause a cylinder not to fire? How easy should the feeler guage move. No drag or slight drag. This is the same guy (me) who adjusted the valves on the other motor, probably \why that one never ran right. Al Salvatore From murray54 at bellsouth.net Mon Jan 28 14:31:04 2008 From: murray54 at bellsouth.net (murray54 at bellsouth.net) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 21:31:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Factory Hardtop Price Message-ID: <012820082131.23638.479E499800083A8100005C5622230680329B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBFCBCA970E9D9D9A03@att.net> Anyone bought one of these lately? If so, what can one expect to pay? Appreciate any info -- thanks. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 28 14:55:31 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 13:55:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] engine swap / motor skip In-Reply-To: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > If the valves were off would that cause a cylinder not to fire? They would need to be significantly off, not just .002" IMO. > How easy should the feeler guage move. No drag or slight drag. IMO there should be a slight drag. Purely as a learning exercise, try using feelers of +.002" and -.002" from the value you are trying to set. The -.002" should have no resistance whatsoever (and even rattle a little), while the +.002" should be too tight to push in. The other thing I am wondering : Is it possible your motor has a non-original camshaft in it ? Many 'performance' cams take significantly more valve lash than stock, and setting them to the stock clearance can cause problems at idle. If it really runs better with the valves a little loose, then set them a little loose ... Randall From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Jan 28 15:06:33 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 15:06:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Wedge] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 2008 Donor Car status report In-Reply-To: <012820081428.19667.479DE670000091D800004CD322193122529B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF9C0B9A0E080C079D@att.net> References: <012820081428.19667.479DE670000091D800004CD322193122529B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF9C0B9A0E080C079D@att.net> Message-ID: <479E51E9.6050802@tscusa.org> Thanks for snagging the hook Mickey! We will let you know if these units will be transporting or not and I'll put you on the truck/trailer list. Thanks again richauds at bellsouth.net wrote: > Hey, Glenn - > > I may be a bit south of the mark (typical!), but if the trip participants find themselves along I-24 in Tennessee, I'd be happy to pitch in any way I can. > > Best regards, > Mickey > > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From fishplate at charter.net Mon Jan 28 15:08:43 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 14:08:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] engine swap / motor skip In-Reply-To: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <20080128170843.RHRNA.682558.root@fepweb12> ---- Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> wrote: > Saturday the car ran real strong, I didn't know a 6 had that much power. > The only thing was the valves were clatering. > So Sunday I proceed to adjust the valves. They were a bit loose. > Bad Move. Should have left well enough alone. > Put everything back together, and now its just as doggy as the motor I took > out. Are you sure you got the wires back in the right order? Just thinking out loud... From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Jan 28 17:03:29 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 19:03:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 lock-to-lock steering maximumzation Message-ID: <001401c8620a$618db110$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> If I recall, one of the reasons for me delving so deep into the old steering on my TR3, was that it lacked about 1/3 rd of a steering wheel revolution, from what the manual said it should turn from lock-to-lock. Today, I rereinstalled my tie-rods, etc. I also removed the front wheel's lock stop (I suppose this is the ultimate end of the turning). I saw that the disc-bumper-lockstop is slightly off-center or eliptical and therefore adjustable. I tentatively set it to maximise my turning revolutions. Later when playing with the mounted wheel rotors (cheap thrills) and with all steering linkage tentatively tightened I mimaced turning the wheels from side to side. Surprisingly, they seemed to lock up (as if they might not recover from a turn.) Again this turning was performed at the rotor, itself. DO I NEED TO MINIMIZE MY MAXIMUMZATION? this car is not roadworthy, yet! I've not even rereinstalled the steering wheel. Is the adjustment of this eliptical disc meant to be where this can be overcome? or do i need to even worry about it? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From 6parts at charter.net Mon Jan 28 17:30:08 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 19:30:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] engine swap / motor skip References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> <05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <009701c8620e$1a7e05f0$03d30c47@alan> Well, I found the problem. I checked the notes I got with the car, and it has a high out put cam. Intake should be .012 & exhaust .014. I guess it didn't like being set at stock .010 I probably put 10 miles on it today, I hope I haven't damaged anything. readjusting now. Thanks Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 4:55 PM Subject: Re: [TR] engine swap / motor skip >> If the valves were off would that cause a cylinder not to fire? > > They would need to be significantly off, not just .002" IMO. > >> How easy should the feeler guage move. No drag or slight drag. > > IMO there should be a slight drag. Purely as a learning exercise, try > using > feelers of +.002" and -.002" from the value you are trying to set. The > -.002" should have no resistance whatsoever (and even rattle a little), > while the +.002" should be too tight to push in. > > The other thing I am wondering : Is it possible your motor has a > non-original camshaft in it ? Many 'performance' cams take significantly > more valve lash than stock, and setting them to the stock clearance can > cause problems at idle. > > If it really runs better with the valves a little loose, then set them a > little loose ... > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 6parts at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.14/1247 - Release Date: > 1/28/2008 10:59 AM From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jan 28 17:58:59 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 19:58:59 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 lock-to-lock steering maximumzation Message-ID: Paul, It is not a good idea to let the peg on the rocker in the steering box be the stop for lock to lock and by removing the stop, that is what you are doing. If you are going to test the limits you should do it gently so as to not jam the peg against the end of the worm. IMHO take it to the end gently, then back it off and adjust the stop. There is a specific setting (angle) for the stop in Bentley but it is not easy to achieve without a turning platform. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 28 18:20:48 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 17:20:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 lock-to-lock steering maximumzation In-Reply-To: <001401c8620a$618db110$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001401c8620a$618db110$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <05d601c86215$2e4ef1a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Later when playing with the mounted wheel rotors (cheap > thrills) and with > all steering linkage tentatively tightened I mimaced turning > the wheels from > side to side. Surprisingly, they seemed to lock up (as if > they might not > recover from a turn.) Paul, does this mean that the steering got hard to turn at the limits of travel ? IOW it was much harder to turn back to center ? In that case, my opinion is that something is bent and binding at the limits of travel. > DO I NEED TO MINIMIZE MY MAXIMUMZATION? I drove for many years with the eccentric stops on the trunnions turned to allow the maximum travel. At least on my car, the peg inside the steering box did not reach the end of it's travel and there was no binding before the vertical link touched the stop. Later when I added an ADDCO sway bar, the (wider) tires would rub the sway bar with the steering at the limit, so I turned the eccentric stops until the tires would just barely touch the sway bar with the steering against the stop. One surprising (to me) place where I had trouble with binding was inside the idler arm bracket. I had gotten some overspray on the trunnion part of the idler arm, which I didn't think would hurt anything. To my surprise, after several weeks of daily driving, it started to bind. The paint had rubbed off and formed a ball of gunk that was causing the bind; but only off-center. Herman van den Akker has also written of bent vertical links causing binding after replacing the trunnions, tho I've not had that problem myself. He found quite a few of them bent though, so maybe I've just been lucky in that department. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 28 18:26:44 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 20:26:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Steering Column Bushings....EASY! Message-ID: <000b01c86216$053d11b0$210110ac@bobspc> Guys & Gals, I just finished one of those "dreaded" jobs.....replacing the steering column bushings. But I used Art Lipp's Delrin bushings and the job was very easy. No need to remove the shaft, column or even the old bushings. These tap in over the old ones. I just updated my site with directions and pictures, so give it a look see (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm) Now that I've done it once, I could probably do it again in an hour's time. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.13/1246 - Release Date: 1/27/2008 6:39 PM From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Jan 28 19:56:48 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 21:56:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] engine swap / motor skip In-Reply-To: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: Hi Al, The way I was taught to adjust valves was to get a feeler gauge set that has a gauge just above and just below my target setting. If you are looking for 0.010 get a 0.009 and a 0.011. Holding the guage with two fingers, try the 0.009 guage. Don't force it. If it slides in very easily, go to the 0.010 guage. If you can slide the 0.010 but not the 0.011. You have that one done, move on to the next. You shouldn't have to use a lot of force to insert the gauge. In fact, if you hold the gauge with two fingers and can't pull out the 0.010 gauge, it is too tight. It is easier to check pulling the guage out rather than pushing it in as it is less likely to bind. This has worked for me for years. One other thing, if your guages are all deformed and bent, get a new straight set or you will just be wasting your time. Also, make sure you are on the right valve and cylinder! I am sure you will hear several ways to go, just try whatever works for you. >From what you describe, it certainly sounds like valve adjustment is part of your problem. Just my 0.02, Dave Connitt From cole.jw at comcast.net Mon Jan 28 20:07:04 2008 From: cole.jw at comcast.net (Jerry Cole) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 19:07:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] Whine And Ye Shall Receive References: Message-ID: <000b01c86224$06b9e550$ba00a8c0@Belen> I came, I saw I whined. And voila! I received my much awaited seat foam for my 1972 TR6. One day later, I get a UPS shipping notice that my new top is on its way. By the way, I did get my bumpers back from the chromer. They are still wrapped up because it was wet and 23 degrees F outside. If it was 23 degrees C, they would have been on the car by now. Anyhow, I'll report back on how the chrome looks once this snow stuff turns back to rain and I have a day off. (My TR6 is inside, but it's COLD in the garage.) I used to live in Wyoming, Chicago, Conneticut and Virginia and there's no cold like Pacific NW WET cold. My 3-year-old roof on my house decided to leak and cause much damage. Guess what? the roofing company that carried the warranty is out of business. Now it's getting personal. They're cutting into my LBC time AND my LBC money. This roof problem will cost me many sets of red-line radials. This TR6, Miss Helen Back, WILL be ready for summer. Or else. (Or else I move the target to next year, again.) Jerry Cole Lakewood, WA. 1972 TR6 (Helen Back) From mlang99 at comcast.net Mon Jan 28 21:56:15 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 20:56:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] Whine And Ye Shall Receive In-Reply-To: <000b01c86224$06b9e550$ba00a8c0@Belen> References: <000b01c86224$06b9e550$ba00a8c0@Belen> Message-ID: <479EB1EF.2070804@comcast.net> Jerry Cole wrote: > My 3-year-old roof on my house decided to leak and cause much damage. Guess > what? the roofing company that carried the warranty is out of business. Now > it's getting personal. They're cutting into my LBC time AND my LBC money. > This roof problem will cost me many sets of red-line radials. This TR6, Miss > Helen Back, WILL be ready for summer. Or else. (Or else I move the target to > next year, again.) > > Boy am I there with you. Our story was a little more tragic. 2 years after roofing our house, we found it was leaking and causing a huge amount of dry-rot. Called the roofer to have him come look at it. He didn't show at the arranged time so I called him again. Got a relative on the phone the next time and found out that he had been killed in a car accident a couple of days earlier. Just in case your wondering if you was pulling a fast one, we looked up his obituary later in the week. Getting our roof problems fixed cost us the equivalent of a couple of fully restored TR3's! I learned that having a licensed/bonded contractor do your work doesn't really add much value in situations such as this. I hope you are able to get it resolved quickly and as in-expensive as possible. Mike From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jan 29 05:22:28 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 07:22:28 EST Subject: [TR] Thrust washers Message-ID: If I may raise an old subject once again. I just want to check with the list. I am helping a friend rebuild his 3A motor and as most often happens when three or four guys work together questions come up that might not be raised when working alone. This one has to do with thrust washers. The factory manual says to put them in with the 'white metal side against the crank shaft". The thrust wshers that were received from the supplier are steel on one side and brass/bronze (?) on the other. The yellow metal side has oil grooves in it. As the TWs were being installed with the steel side against the crank (because it is white metal) I said NO. First the steel side has slightly raised numbers stamped into it, and the yellow metal side has the oil grooves which should go against the rotating member. Turn them around. This is the way I have installed these things. All agreed that my logic was correct, "but it says. . ." I never questioned the yellow metal side with the oil grooves against the crank as correct until this. What say others? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jan 29 06:37:51 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 08:37:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Thrust washers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200801290837.52550.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 29 January 2008 07:22 am, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > If I may raise an old subject once again. I just want to check with the > list. > I am helping a friend rebuild his 3A motor and as most often happens when > three or four guys work together questions come up that might not be raised > when working alone. This one has to do with thrust washers. > The factory manual says to put them in with the 'white metal side against > the crank shaft". The thrust wshers that were received from the supplier > are steel on one side and brass/bronze (?) on the other. The yellow metal > side has oil grooves in it. As the TWs were being installed with the > steel side against the crank (because it is white metal) I said NO. > First the steel side has slightly raised numbers stamped into it, and the > yellow metal side has the oil grooves which should go against the rotating > member. Turn them around. This is the way I have installed these things. > All agreed that my logic was correct, "but it says. . ." I never > questioned the yellow metal side with the oil grooves against the crank as > correct until this. > What say others? > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > David, You are correct, the washers are inserted so the "groove" sides are against the crankshaft. Bob From ahealey56 at aol.com Tue Jan 29 06:22:18 2008 From: ahealey56 at aol.com (ahealey56 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 08:22:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Starter Pinion, Early TR-3 Message-ID: <8CA30911B5E18BA-7F0-5375@WEBMAIL-MB11.sysops.aol.com> Does??anyone have an early TR-3 starter drive pinion that they would br willing to sell? ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 29 06:54:56 2008 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 05:54:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Thrust washers In-Reply-To: <200801290837.52550.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <738622.72689.qm@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I will hazard a guess here. Perhaps the original thrust washers were babbited on one side. Babbit metal is white compared to steel which is more Grey. Babbit was once used as bearing material in rods (Ford T for one). Thus the white side against the crank where most of the wear would take place. For the ones with bearing bronze rather than babbit, the bronze should be against the crank. A "modern" version of the instruction woild be: "Put the bearing surface against the crank". A true WAG. John Young --- Bob Labuz wrote: > On Tuesday 29 January 2008 07:22 am, DLylis at aol.com > wrote: > > If I may raise an old subject once again. I just > want to check with the > > list. > > I am helping a friend rebuild his 3A motor and as > most often happens when > > three or four guys work together questions come up > that might not be raised > > when working alone. This one has to do with thrust > washers. > > The factory manual says to put them in with the > 'white metal side against > > the crank shaft". The thrust wshers that were > received from the supplier > > are steel on one side and brass/bronze (?) on the > other. The yellow metal > > side has oil grooves in it. As the TWs were being > installed with the > > steel side against the crank (because it is white > metal) I said NO. > > First the steel side has slightly raised numbers > stamped into it, and the > > yellow metal side has the oil grooves which > should go against the rotating > > member. Turn them around. This is the way I have > installed these things. > > All agreed that my logic was correct, "but it > says. . ." I never > > questioned the yellow metal side with the oil > grooves against the crank as > > correct until this. > > What say others? > > > > David Lylis > > 69 TR6 CC26160L > > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > > David, > > You are correct, the washers are inserted so the > "groove" sides are against > the crankshaft. > > Bob From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Jan 29 08:04:22 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 15:04:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] engine swap / motor skip In-Reply-To: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: To get valve adjustment correct you should use a dial indicator. When I was in auto tech at the dawn of time a company named Perfect Circle actually made a tool for this. I haven't seen one since. So I made my own. Take a piece of 1/8" thick steel the length of the engine head. Make adjustment cut to it so one edge of it fits on top of the valve cover mounting surface on one side of the head. Now find a way to secure it to the head. Then mount your dial indicator stand to the plate of steel. Install your dial indicator so that you can set the index point vertically at the midpoint of the the rocker arm where it contacts the valve stem. Now rotate the engine until the particular valve is closed. Set your dial indicator to zero with the rocker arm depressed to the valve stem. Then insert a feeler gauge and read the dial indicator. Twist the feeler gauge a little to see if the rocker arm is fully raised. Adjust the rocker arm until you get an accurate reading. Then move on to the next rocker arm. When I did this to my engine it made a world of difference in the way it ran and the amount of noise it made. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Jan 29 08:22:50 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 15:22:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] Whine And Ye Shall Receive In-Reply-To: <000b01c86224$06b9e550$ba00a8c0@Belen> References: <000b01c86224$06b9e550$ba00a8c0@Belen> Message-ID: You can get a heater for the garage. I prefer the kind that looks similar to a small jet motor and runs on kerosene. They come in several BTU ratings. I plug it into the wall socket and five seconds later it begins blowing hot air. I got a 40,000 BTU model which turns out to be a little inadequate for my three car garage. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser! http://biggestloser.msn.com/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 29 09:35:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 08:35:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] Thrust washers In-Reply-To: <738622.72689.qm@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080129163508.TOOV22143.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > I will hazard a guess here. Perhaps the original thrust > washers were babbited on one side. Good guess ! That's exactly right, the original washers were steel on one side and a soft "white metal" alloy (mostly lead and tin) on the other. The soft alloy face forms the actual bearing surface and thus is the side that goes against the crank. Which leaves only the question of why someone is supplying what amounts to a modification, without instructions as to why or how to properly install it. Given that the original TRactor motor thrust bearing design was remarkably trouble-free and I believe using "yellow metal" will cause more rapid wear of the crank thrust surfaces; I might be tempted to seek out correct replacements. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jan 29 12:10:02 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 14:10:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Thrust washers In-Reply-To: <20080129163508.TOOV22143.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> References: <738622.72689.qm@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <20080129163508.TOOV22143.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <003501c862aa$8ef19ae0$210110ac@bobspc> Anyone ever try these thrust washers (http://www.britishcarweek.org/tr6.html) ? I'm late to the party so maybe they've already been discussed.....or they're the cause of the discussion. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 11:35 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Thrust washers > I will hazard a guess here. Perhaps the original thrust washers were > babbited on one side. Good guess ! That's exactly right, the original washers were steel on one side and a soft "white metal" alloy (mostly lead and tin) on the other. The soft alloy face forms the actual bearing surface and thus is the side that goes against the crank. Which leaves only the question of why someone is supplying what amounts to a modification, without instructions as to why or how to properly install it. Given that the original TRactor motor thrust bearing design was remarkably trouble-free and I believe using "yellow metal" will cause more rapid wear of the crank thrust surfaces; I might be tempted to seek out correct replacements. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.15/1248 - Release Date: 1/28/2008 9:32 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.15/1248 - Release Date: 1/28/2008 9:32 PM From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu Tue Jan 29 13:32:32 2008 From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 15:32:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] HD intake/exhaust manifold gasket Message-ID: Howdy all, Trying to get the TR4A back in shape with new ARP head bolts and an extra thick head gasket in an effort to lower the compression ratio. I am try to find HD, that is the metal sandwich type manifold gaskets. I have tried the usual suspects(Moss, BPNW, Ted S,, TRF, and LBCCO) to no avail. Any ideas appreciated. Moderation is a fatal thing... Nothing succeeds like excess. Oscar Wilde (1854-1900) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Jan 29 15:00:23 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:00:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 radiator heigth? Message-ID: <002601c862c2$59ccf180$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am installing a new radiator into my TR3 and I don't know the heigth it's suppose to be. A long time ago someone sent me pictures showing this, but they must have gotten deleted. I can 'tightly wedge' the radiator's neck between the two doo-hickeys that are mounted to the aluminum bow (this 'tightness' won't hurt anything will it?) . In fact, should the radiator's neck TOUCH the aluminum bow? It proably needs a substantial gap. Proably the neck should lack about 1/4" of touching the neck (but it will touch doo-hickeys on both sides of the neck). Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Jan 29 15:13:08 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 15:13:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 radiator heigth? In-Reply-To: <002601c862c2$59ccf180$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <002601c862c2$59ccf180$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <75A16974730940BF9D7FC10BC8D108E1@GeoPC> My stock rad has about 1" of clearance between the neck and the bow/bar. It needs some of this clearance for the overflow hose that snakes thru there. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 3:00 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 radiator heigth? > > Proably the neck should lack about 1/4" of touching the neck (but it will > touch doo-hickeys on both sides of the neck). From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Jan 29 15:16:13 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 16:16:13 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] HD intake/exhaust manifold gasket Message-ID: <14243545.10666631201644974202.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net> Contact Jeff at Paltech at http://www.paltech1.com/ When he rebuilt my carbs and worked his magic, he provided me a Payen gasket that was way superior to what I got anywhere else, and I tried most of them. I could send you some pictures if you want, but I bet he can provide you one or tell you where to get it. Craig H. Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 From: "Arnold S. Gilmour" Date: 2008/01/29 Tue PM 02:32:32 CST To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] HD intake/exhaust manifold gasket Howdy all, Trying to get the TR4A back in shape with new ARP head bolts and an extra thick head gasket in an effort to lower the compression ratio. I am try to find HD, that is the metal sandwich type manifold gaskets. I have tried the usual suspects(Moss, BPNW, Ted S,, TRF, and LBCCO) to no avail. Any ideas appreciated. Moderation is a fatal thing... Nothing succeeds like excess. Oscar Wilde (1854-1900) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 29 15:36:18 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 14:36:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 radiator heigth? In-Reply-To: <002601c862c2$59ccf180$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <002601c862c2$59ccf180$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <068101c862c7$5d5fea00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > In fact, should the radiator's neck TOUCH the > aluminum bow? I believe that is NOT a good idea. Body flex will cause it to rub, and eventually wear through (not to mention causing squeaks). Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Jan 29 17:16:32 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 19:16:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 radiator heigth? References: <002601c862c2$59ccf180$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <003601c862d5$5eb2ee80$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Eh-oh! I just rerere-measured my radiator installation. There 's only 3/8" between my radiator neck and the aluminum bow. The lowered bonnet (yet to be heighth adjusted) touches the radiator cap. Those doo-hickey's are the bonnet latch and from John's picture, I've got them on the wrong side!!! All of this is due to my new Wizard Cooling radiator. It can't go any lower---what can I do?????????? Thanks, Paul Dorsey TR3- '60 From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Jan 29 17:18:21 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 00:18:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] HD intake/exhaust manifold gasket Message-ID: <013020080018.29094.479FC24D000CB399000071A622165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Hi, Arnold. I have no idea whether he has one or not, but when I needed specialty and high quality parts (read lifters, rebuilt camshaft, and so on), I went through Ken Gilanders at British Frame and Engine. Good guy liberal with answers to questions and more experience than Methusalah. Temple City, CA (626) 443-0939. NFI. Just a satisfied customer. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667 grounded up and waiting for a new alternator bracket and the new plastic silent blocs) New Hampshire PS. I must respectfully offer an alternate view to Jerry, who wrote "I used to live in Wyoming, Chicago, Conneticut and Virginia and there's no cold like Pacific NW WET cold." I was born a fourth generation Pacific Northwesterner whose father, grandfather, and great-grandfather cut down the redwoods (it took three days using a two man saw called a 'misery whip'. Believe me when I say there is no cold like the icy Atlantic Northeast that my native wife forced me to, where they send refrigerators for military survival training, and where Eskimos send their naughty children for improvement, and where Triumph sends their massive heater unites. Uh, wait on that last one, I could be wrong. In late January, what I wouldn't give for a good old fashioned rainstorm Chrismas! Come to think of it, I'd love to see a west coast winter in November! > Howdy all, Trying to get the TR4A back in shape with new ARP head bolts > and > an extra thick head gasket in an effort to lower the compression ratio. I > am try to find > HD, that is the metal sandwich type manifold gaskets. I have tried the > usual suspects(Moss, BPNW, Ted S,, TRF, and LBCCO) to no avail. > Any ideas appreciated. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Jan 29 18:47:29 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 18:47:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Voltage Reg/Igniton Light Message-ID: <3E5B09ADDEBF4B248D7CDA57F84E175F@GeoPC> Not every time but once in awhile my ignition light stays on when the ignition is switched off (even after the key is withdrawn). Restarting the engine and again switching off makes the light go out. More recently I found that I could make it go out by momentarily disconnecting the battery ground cable. When I pulled the cable I got a nice 'thunk' from inside the voltage regulator. Is any of this suggestive of needed adjustment, cleaning or other maintenance required? It only happens once a week or less so I can surely live with it, just wondering what it's trying to tell me. Thanks! Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 29 19:08:58 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 18:08:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Voltage Reg/Igniton Light In-Reply-To: <3E5B09ADDEBF4B248D7CDA57F84E175F@GeoPC> References: <3E5B09ADDEBF4B248D7CDA57F84E175F@GeoPC> Message-ID: <06a401c862e5$12fca840$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Is any of this suggestive of needed adjustment, cleaning or > other maintenance required? Yup, cutout relay inside the control box most likely needs adjustment. There's a procedure in the book, but most likely just turning the tension adjustment (on the frame behind the cutout contacts) in by 1/2 turn or so will fix the problem. If you go too far, the light won't go out when you start the engine. > It only happens once a week or less so I can surely live with it, Be sure to deal with it promptly; as the generator windings and probably the cutout contacts are being overloaded. Basically the generator is trying to act like an electric motor but is stalled because it's not strong enough to turn the engine. Randall From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com Wed Jan 30 14:16:24 2008 From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 15:16:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] Steering Column Bushings.... EASY! THANK YOU!!! Message-ID: Bob, Based on your recommendation, I'm about to order a set of Art Lipp's steering column bushings for my TR6. I had a hard time imagining what had to be done to install these and worried that it might be difficult, but your latest post to your web site shows that it is in faFrom wsteinman at pogolaw.com Thu Jan 31 13:09:30 2008 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 15:09:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking for a GT6 In-Reply-To: <380-2200814310472576@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F016A8975@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> Howdy all: My girlfriend is also a Triumph enthusiast, and she has expressed interest in a GT6. Her 30th birthday is just around the corner, and I thought it would be a nifty surprise. Sooo, I'm in the market for a nice solid GT6 driver, the prettier the better (but doesn't have to be concours). I prefer the GT6 or the GT6+, but I'd love to hear from anyone with a pre-1974 car. Thanks so much!! B. Bill S. 2005 Lotus Elise 1968 Triumph TR-250 1968 MGC Tourer 1966 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III 1965 Sunbeam Tiger 1959 Austin Healey 3000 www.TR-250.com Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows... NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Jan 27 21:16:59 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 23:16:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] already turned rusty rotors? Message-ID: <018a01c86164$a1285ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Sorry if this is a repeat- as I've changed ISP's. Hi! I am now wondering about my front wheel rotors and my rear brake drums. I can't remember if I've 'turned' them already. I kinda think I did this about 4 years ago, but since they've been stored under a tarp, I can't really tell since their rusty again. Although no distinquishing 'ruts' are on the rotors, I can feel where tracks remain (maybe a 1/32" deep?)? I wonder if they need 'turning' again? what about the rust? Can I use steel wool on it? Thanks, Paul Dorsey '60 TR3 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 28 09:01:22 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 16:01:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] already turned rusty rotors? In-Reply-To: <018a01c86164$a1285ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <018a01c86164$a1285ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Don't use steel wool on the rotors. If the rust is light surface rust install them and let the break pads clean their own surface. If it is heavy rust you should have them turned. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 28 18:26:44 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 20:26:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Steering Column Bushings....EASY! Message-ID: <000b01c86216$053d11b0$210110ac@bobspc> Guys & Gals, I just finished one of those "dreaded" jobs.....replacing the steering column bushings. But I used Art Lipp's Delrin bushings and the job was very easy. No need to remove the shaft, column or even the old bushings. These tap in over the old ones. I just updated my site with directions and pictures, so give it a look see (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm) Now that I've done it once, I could probably do it again in an hour's time. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.13/1246 - Release Date: 1/27/2008 6:39 PM From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Jan 30 12:34:41 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 12:34:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Voltage Reg/Igniton Light In-Reply-To: <06a401c862e5$12fca840$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <3E5B09ADDEBF4B248D7CDA57F84E175F@GeoPC> <06a401c862e5$12fca840$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Looking inside the control box I learned a bit more about what is happening and thought I'd mention that before making any adjustment or performing the tests in the Lucas Fault Manual. I find that the cut-out relay is still maintaining a slight magnetic field when the ignition is switched off. I can feel it if I offer a screwdriver blade to the top of the coil. The pull is not strong enough to pull the tongue of the contact down but it is strong enough (just barely) to hold it if I press it down. Removing the battery ground cable eliminates the magnetic pull so I know this is not some residual ghostly magnetism lingering there. Does this still suggest the adjustment mentioned or is something else at work? Thanks. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" >> Is any of this suggestive of needed adjustment, cleaning or >> other maintenance required? > > Yup, cutout relay inside the control box most likely needs adjustment... From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com Wed Jan 30 14:16:24 2008 From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 15:16:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] Steering Column Bushings.... EASY! THANK YOU!!! Message-ID: Bob, Based on your recommendation, I'm about to order a set of Art Lipp's steering column bushings for my TR6. I had a hard time imagining what had to be done to install these and worried that it might be difficult, but your latest post to your web site shows that it is in fact VERY EASY. Thank you so much for posting the installation photos on your web site. I'll be following them while saying "Thank you Bob!" every step of the way! Cheers, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg On Jan 28th Bob Danielson wrote: Guys & Gals, I just finished one of those "dreaded" jobs.....replacing the steering column bushings. But I used Art Lipp's Delrin bushings and the job was very easy. No need to remove the shaft, column or even the old bushings. These tap in over the old ones. I just updated my site with directions and pictures, so give it a look see (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm) Now that I've done it once, I could probably do it again in an hour's time. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 30 14:20:10 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 13:20:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Voltage Reg/Igniton Light In-Reply-To: References: <3E5B09ADDEBF4B248D7CDA57F84E175F@GeoPC> <06a401c862e5$12fca840$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <078c01c86385$e50db4a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I find that the cut-out relay is still maintaining a slight > magnetic field ... > Does this still suggest the adjustment mentioned or is > something else at work? That is what I assumed was happening, Geo, so it's at least consistent with the cutout relay being out of adjustment. The cutout relay has two separate coils on it, one of which senses the generator current and the other senses generator voltage. With the generator stopped and the cutout closed, both coils are energized but with opposite polarities. There should be a point as it is coming to a stop where they exactly balance and the relay drops out; but with it totally stopped, the two coils do not balance and so there is a net magnetic field attracting the armature. IOW if you walk up to a normal, not running system and mash the cutout contacts closed, they will stay closed. It's possible there is something else wrong, but I can't think of anything obvious that would cause the symptoms you describe, except maybe the armature/contacts binding somehow. And I think you would have noticed that already. If the shunt coil were open, the cutout wouldn't close when you start the engine; and if the series coil were open, the generator would not charge the battery. I'm assuming it does charge normally otherwise ... Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 30 14:23:04 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 13:23:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Voltage Reg/Igniton Light In-Reply-To: References: <3E5B09ADDEBF4B248D7CDA57F84E175F@GeoPC> <06a401c862e5$12fca840$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <078d01c86386$4cea4c50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > thought I'd mention that before making any adjustment or > performing the > tests in the Lucas Fault Manual. Forgot to mention, you can start with step 9 on page 9 if you want. That's the only test/adjustment given for the cutout. Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Jan 30 14:25:50 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 16:25:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 radiator tilted backwards? Message-ID: <006001c86386$b069f280$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hi, I am fitting a new Wizard Radiator into my TR3. It's gonna be a tight fit unless I slightly lean it towards the driver. In other words, the top of the radiator leans backwards (I have installed an electric fan), and is only leaning about an 1" closer to the driver than the bottom of the radiator. This insures that the radiator cap on the radiator's neck has sufficient clearance from the bonnet when it's shut. Is this allright for my driver TR3? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From steven at newellboys.com Wed Jan 30 16:15:27 2008 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 16:15:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr4 trunk plate In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47A1050F.1040901@newellboys.com> CarlSereda at aol.com wrote: >Thanks guys for your TR4 license plate bolt position measurements (from >bottom edge of trunk to centers of top license plate bolts). >In general 8 1/4" to 8 3/16" seems to be the range. >2 of my 7 holes are at 8.5" .. so I may need to make two more! (and lower) >Thanks again, > I'd hoped Jonmac would recollect that license plate holes were all drilled on Fridays during happy hour. So that they might be anywhere from 8" to 8 1/2" and sometimes drilled into a door or front wing by mistake. In which case, factory workers simply installed a side-view mirror in the misplaced hole. :) Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jan 30 17:01:32 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 19:01:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 radiator tilted backwards? In-Reply-To: <006001c86386$b069f280$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <006001c86386$b069f280$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200801301901.33266.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 30 January 2008 04:25 pm, dorpaul wrote: > Hi, > I am fitting a new Wizard Radiator into my TR3. It's gonna be a tight fit > unless I slightly lean it towards the driver. In other words, the top of > the radiator leans backwards (I have installed an electric fan), and is > only leaning about an 1" closer to the driver than the bottom of the > radiator. This insures that the radiator cap on the radiator's neck has > sufficient clearance from the bonnet when it's shut. > > Is this allright for my driver TR3? > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 Paul, I dont have an answer to your question but the base mount will be at an angle. Just doesnt sound correct to me. But I have seen radiators on stock and race cars that are installed about at a 45 degree angle. I believe some of the Corvette cars used an angled radiator. Anyway, I just measured a stock TR3A radiator and the height is 22 3/4 inches. I put a level on the top to measure the bottom to the radiator cap and the length is 25 3/4 inches. The spout comes out at an angle. Maybe your spout angle is to steep? Bob Bob From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Jan 30 17:35:11 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 17:35:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Voltage Reg/Igniton Light In-Reply-To: <078c01c86385$e50db4a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <3E5B09ADDEBF4B248D7CDA57F84E175F@GeoPC><06a401c862e5$12fca840$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <078c01c86385$e50db4a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <632BF5D01D9F4C25AA6E96FCCB519629@GeoPC> Thanks for the advice. The cut-out seemed to work as specified when I conducted the test... operating w/i the voltage range and the amps swinging up & down more or less as described. I did find the connections at the dynamo to be very poor. This could be a result of the problem rather than the cause as they may well have been 'cooked' one of those times when the ignition light stayed on. As an experiment I adjusted the cut-out screw 1/4 turn CCW. One manual declined to say how to adjust it, the other explained the result of CW vs CCW and said to only move it a small amount (but didn't say how much is 'small'). The quarter turn did not make a noticeable difference in the readings so I will see if the problem recurs, gets better or gets worse. Not too scientific but at least I'll have more data and no real harm should occur as I am the only one who drives the car and will conscientiously watch that light. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 2:20 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Voltage Reg/Igniton Light >> I find that the cut-out relay is still maintaining a slight >> magnetic field > ... > it's at least consistent with > the cutout relay being out of adjustment. From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Wed Jan 30 17:47:02 2008 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 19:47:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Thrust Washers Message-ID: <380-2200814310472576@earthlink.net> My engine has these, from Racestorations: http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj14/TR250Tom/100_4258.jpg They are pictured with an OEM thrust washer for comparison. Greater area, better material, but fits in the original location with no machining, and can still be replaced from below with the crankshaft in place. Cheers, Tom http://www.triumphowners.com/735 From 6parts at charter.net Wed Jan 30 18:16:56 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 20:16:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] engine swap / motor skip References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan><05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <009701c8620e$1a7e05f0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <01bc01c863a6$f9219df0$03d30c47@alan> Randal was right. Cam is non stock; supposed to be a 270 cam. I reset the valves to .012 inake & .014 exhaust. Better, but still skipping. I went on the electrical hunt: Changed Plugs, still skipping. Changed plug wires, nothing yet. Changed distributer cap. Some improvement, At least car could go down the Street. Went about 10 miles, Alternator light started coming on, started skipping some more. There still doesn't seem to be any spark in # 2 cylinder. At least when I unplug # 2 theres no difference. If I unplug any of the other spark plugs the idle changes. Running out of ideas Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> To: "Randall" ; ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 7:30 PM Subject: Re: [TR] engine swap / motor skip > Well, I found the problem. > I checked the notes I got with the car, and it has a high out put cam. > Intake should be .012 & exhaust .014. > > I guess it didn't like being set at stock .010 > > I probably put 10 miles on it today, I hope I haven't damaged anything. > > readjusting now. > > Thanks > > Al > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randall" > To: > Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 4:55 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] engine swap / motor skip > > >>> If the valves were off would that cause a cylinder not to fire? >> >> They would need to be significantly off, not just .002" IMO. >> >>> How easy should the feeler guage move. No drag or slight drag. >> >> IMO there should be a slight drag. Purely as a learning exercise, try >> using >> feelers of +.002" and -.002" from the value you are trying to set. The >> -.002" should have no resistance whatsoever (and even rattle a little), >> while the +.002" should be too tight to push in. >> >> The other thing I am wondering : Is it possible your motor has a >> non-original camshaft in it ? Many 'performance' cams take significantly >> more valve lash than stock, and setting them to the stock clearance can >> cause problems at idle. >> >> If it really runs better with the valves a little loose, then set them a >> little loose ... >> >> Randall >> _______________________________________________ From 6parts at charter.net Wed Jan 30 18:52:54 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 20:52:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] [TR6] engine swap / motor skip Message-ID: <000601c863ab$ff76eac0$03d30c47@alan> > Randal was right. > Cam is non stock; supposed to be a 270 cam. > > I reset the valves to .012 inake & .014 exhaust. > > Better, but still skipping. > I went on the electrical hunt: > Changed Plugs, still skipping. > Changed plug wires, nothing yet. > Changed distributer cap. Some improvement, At least car could go down the > Street. > Went about 10 miles, Alternator light started coming on, started skipping > some more. > There still doesn't seem to be any spark in # 2 cylinder. > At least when I unplug # 2 theres no difference. > If I unplug any of the other spark plugs the idle changes. > > Running out of ideas > > Al From wquincy at cox.net Wed Jan 30 21:23:05 2008 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 22:23:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues Message-ID: <817BD3BE-56F7-4052-B17D-1A9A489E562F@cox.net> Greetings Listers, Several years ago I found a tow bar that matched the bumper hole pattern perfectly for my TR3. I've used it many times with inconsistent results when turning corners. Some times the front wheels refuse to turn and scrub around the corner, other times the wheels turn all the way to lock, and refuse to straighten up causing me to get out in traffic and straighten the wheels before I can continue down the road. I like towing this car on all fours in a straight line, but would like to hear from the list about why the bad behavior turning corners . Thanks Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 31 14:59:12 2008 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 13:59:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues In-Reply-To: <817BD3BE-56F7-4052-B17D-1A9A489E562F@cox.net> Message-ID: <616653.35821.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Many years ago, I was towing a Packard with a tow bar (I know, not a Triumph, but at that time, I didn't know about Triumphs). Anyway, it was behaving the way you describe, but it tore the bumper off. That turned the car loose and it started down a hill onto the interstate. I was barely able to stop it in time. Be careful if your tow bar is giving you trouble, I guarantee you don't want a similar experience. I think the problem with the Packard was that the front wheels were out of alignment. That might be your problem. Good luck, John Young --- "William C. Quincy" wrote: > Greetings Listers, > Several years ago I found a tow bar that matched the > bumper hole > pattern perfectly for my TR3. I've used it many > times with > inconsistent results when turning corners. > Some times the front wheels refuse to turn and scrub > around the > corner, other times the wheels turn all the way to > lock, and refuse > to straighten up causing me to get out in traffic > and straighten the > wheels before I can continue down the road. > I like towing this car on all fours in a straight > line, but would > like to hear from the list about why the bad > behavior turning corners . > Thanks > Bill Quincy > Wichita, Ks. From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 31 15:12:38 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 15:12:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues References: <817BD3BE-56F7-4052-B17D-1A9A489E562F@cox.net> Message-ID: <002901c86456$647f79a0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> The answer is a lightweight two wheel trailer. Prevents wear and tear on the car. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "William C. Quincy" To: Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 9:23 PM Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues > Greetings Listers, > Several years ago I found a tow bar that matched the bumper hole > pattern perfectly for my TR3. I've used it many times with > inconsistent results when turning corners. > Some times the front wheels refuse to turn and scrub around the > corner, other times the wheels turn all the way to lock, and refuse > to straighten up causing me to get out in traffic and straighten the > wheels before I can continue down the road. > I like towing this car on all fours in a straight line, but would > like to hear from the list about why the bad behavior turning corners . > Thanks > Bill Quincy > Wichita, Ks. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 31 15:14:24 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 16:14:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] switch or knob refurbishing References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan><05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><009701c8620e$1a7e05f0$03d30c47@alan> <01bc01c863a6$f9219df0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <002a01c86457$63c61f40$8215a8c0@garage.local> hi, all. i apologize for the bandwidth usage, but i've poured through my old emails and can't find what i'm looking for. there is a lister, i believe, who sells a "pen paint" which is very good for old switches. i bought it some time ago, finally got it out and tested it, and it worked great. i have no idea where it went so i need to order it again. thanks! From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Jan 31 15:23:55 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 17:23:55 EST Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues Message-ID: I've always tied the steering wheel straight when using a tow bar with any car. Yeah, I guess it scrubs a bit on corners, but tracks a lot better on the strait bits. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Jan 31 15:34:09 2008 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 17:34:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6fa72a770801311434u30532cc0h412e51682da895bf@mail.gmail.com> my vote is alignment, then possibily the steering box is so worn it wont drive in reverse - The few times I towed my TR2 with the homebuilt towbar (bolts to frame rails vs. bumper) the steering wheel movement made it look like it was driving itself. These were all short tows.. I heard I should be disconnecting the drive shaft for long trips I brought my TR4 home from Hampton on a two wheel trailer and it took me a while to disconnect that old greasy driveshaft (freeing up frozen brake drums was a whole nuther story) and made me a believer in a car trailer....- since that one time I've borrowed car trailers. Chris 54 TR2 63 TR4 From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Jan 31 15:45:48 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 17:45:48 EST Subject: [TR] switch or knob refurbishing Message-ID: In a message dated 1/31/2008 3:25:58 PM Mountain Standard Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: apologize for the bandwidth usage, but i've poured through my old emails and can't find what i'm looking for. there is a lister, i believe, who sells a "pen paint" which is very good for old switches. i bought it some time ago, finally got it out and tested it, and it worked great. i have no idea where it went so i need to order it again. thanks! Check _www.britcot.com_ (http://www.britcot.com) for British Cottage Industries...he's listed there. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 31 16:11:58 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 18:11:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Accelerator Shaft Bearing/Bushing Message-ID: <000801c8645e$afe73dd0$210110ac@bobspc> I've heard horror stories about installing these nylon shaft bearings #19 (http://tinyurl.com/yvq8qf) so I was very pleased when they went in without too much trouble. The problem now is getting the accelerator shaft back through them as there isn't enough room in the driver's foot well to accommodate the length of the shaft. Before I start tearing things apart, does removing the interior carpeted panel free up room or do I have to remove the bearing from the car, slide it over the shaft and work it back on to the car once the shaft is in place? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.17/1252 - Release Date: 1/30/2008 8:51 PM From CarlSereda at aol.com Thu Jan 31 16:28:07 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 18:28:07 EST Subject: [TR] tr4 trunk plate position Message-ID: Ha ha - I think the 'fitting' guys at the San Francisco British Dealership may have been in a hurry too - just measured my original TR4 trunk lid (hanging in parents rafters since 1976) and license plate mounting holes measure exactly 8 3/4" from bottom edge.. (where's the darn S-T dealer instruction shee t when you need it?) Carl '63 TR4 since '74 > I'd hoped Jonmac would recollect that license plate holes were all drilled on Fridays during happy hour. So that they might be anywhere from 8" to 8 1/2" and sometimes drilled into a door or front wing by mistake. In which case, factory workers simply installed a side-view mirror in the misplaced hole. :) Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 ************** Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From ray at raysmg.com Thu Jan 31 16:34:14 2008 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 16:34:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] switch or knob refurbishing Message-ID: <20080131163414.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.e6a06da381.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Robert asked about a "paint pen"... I use them all the time...have half a dozen different colors...the bright yellow is excellent for marking a panel prior to going after it with a grinder and cut-off disk. The product I use goes by the trade name DecoColor and is manufactured by Marvy. I live in a university town and there are a number of art supply stores here; one of the larger ones, Michael's, stocks these paint pens. They are also available for a number of suppliers online; just Google "marvy decocolor" for a list. About $2.50 each and they last a looooong time. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From trbobtr at yahoo.com Thu Jan 31 16:47:01 2008 From: trbobtr at yahoo.com (Bob Rolfes) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 15:47:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Thrust Washers Message-ID: <667941.26068.qm@web90609.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: "Tomislav Marincic" Subject: Re: [TR] Thrust Washers My engine has these, from Racestorations: http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj14/TR250Tom/100_4258.jpg Tom, Somehow I think Frank Zappa would approve! Bob --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 31 17:49:56 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 19:49:56 EST Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues Message-ID: My understanding is that this is something you do not want to do unless you disconnect the prop shaft. The reasoning is that the oil is circulated through the tranny by the rotation of the input shaft and if you tow in neutral the input shaft is stationary while the tranny is turning. I have also been told that this is a lot of hooey, but I also know of a bugeye in which the tranny failed as the result of doing so. YMMV David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 31 18:40:00 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 20:40:00 EST Subject: [TR] Accelerator Shaft Bearing/Bushing Message-ID: Bob, As I recall from when I did it, the bushes need to be on the shaft when it goes into place to make this thing all come together correctly. Ergo, the horror stories. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Jan 31 19:09:29 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 21:09:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues References: Message-ID: <00d501c86477$7a4ece90$670fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> I think this somewhat akin to the brake fluid, gearbox oil and other such unresolved matters of how the universe works. A standard manual trans. does not have an oil pump (unlike an auto trans that does). The oil is distributed by the rotation of the various shafts. I think it is something of an urban legend that the gearbox will suffer from towing ... however, everything in moderation. I have towed manual trans cars hundreds of miles when I was younger (and all old British cars since I was in the UK at the time) without any ill effect. However, if I was going to tow any great distance here in the US, I would probably remove the prop shaft given how easy it is to get to. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 7:49 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Tow Bar Blues > My understanding is that this is something you do not want to do unless > you > disconnect the prop shaft. The reasoning is that the oil is circulated > through the tranny by the rotation of the input shaft and if you tow in > neutral > the input shaft is stationary while the tranny is turning. I have also > been > told that this is a lot of hooey, but I also know of a bugeye in which the > tranny failed as the result of doing so. > > YMMV > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as triumph at 2simpleusa.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From buja at insightbb.com Thu Jan 31 19:49:35 2008 From: buja at insightbb.com (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 20:49:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Tony Gordon wrote: > I think this somewhat akin to the brake fluid, gearbox oil and other > such unresolved matters of how the universe works. A standard manual > trans. does not have an oil pump (unlike an auto trans that does). > The oil is distributed by the rotation of the various shafts. The LT77 five-speed manual gearbox used in TR7 and TR8 uses tapered roller bearings and has an oil pump driven from the countershaft, which only turns when the engine is running and the clutch is engaged. There was a discussion on the Wedge mailing list a couple of years back with the general consensus that these Triumphs should not be flat towed more than 25 miles or at speeds higher than 30mph or you _will_ damage the gearbox. Flat towing for longer distances or at higher speeds should only be done with the propshaft disconnected. I wonder how many wedges have had their gearboxes destroyed by tow truck operators? Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From Catpusher at aol.com Thu Jan 31 19:54:50 2008 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 21:54:50 EST Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues Message-ID: -I suspect that I have the record for miles flat towing a TR3; I even did most of it with a 1967 Jaguar E Type Coupe (my only other car at the time) well over 100,000 miles with the tow bar The problem with a stock TR2-4 is that the front suspension has zero castor, so the wheels will not return to the center on their own. I had modified my TR3 for racing, so I had added positive castor, and it tracked well unless I had bent it on the race track. I NEVER tied the steering wheel except to test the idea once. I always disconnected the drive shaft for any long tow. Do NOT back up when flat towing, even on dirt. Do look far down the road, as stopping or swerving takes much longer. Once I moved out of San Francisco (trailer parking issues) and could afford an Aerostar, I purchased a two wheel trailer with surge brakes. It was much safer, and the TR3 was quite bent, with help from a Porsche, at Road Atlanta the previous day. Hardy ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Greetings Listers, Several years ago I found a tow bar that matched the bumper hole pattern perfectly for my TR3. I've used it many times with inconsistent results when turning corners. Some times the front wheels refuse to turn and scrub around the corner, other times the wheels turn all the way to lock, and refuse to straighten up causing me to get out in traffic and straighten the wheels before I can continue down the road. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From tedtsimx at bright.net Thu Jan 31 19:34:30 2008 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (tedtsimx at bright.net) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 21:34:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues Message-ID: <20080201023430.TJIP2859.invictus@[209.143.0.77]> Tony, TR2 - 6 does not ahve a pump. But all 5 speed TR7 & TR8's have an oil pump. Ted > > From: "Tony Gordon" > Date: Thu Jan 31, 9:09 PM > To: , "TR list" > Subject: Re: [TR] Tow Bar Blues > > I think this somewhat akin to the brake fluid, gearbox oil and other such > unresolved matters of how the universe works. A standard manual trans. does > not have an oil pump (unlike an auto trans that does). The oil is > distributed by the rotation of the various shafts. > > I think it is something of an urban legend that the gearbox will suffer from > towing ... however, everything in moderation. I have towed manual trans > cars hundreds of miles when I was younger (and all old British cars since I > was in the UK at the time) without any ill effect. However, if I was going > to tow any great distance here in the US, I would probably remove the prop > shaft given how easy it is to get to. > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************************************** > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: ; ; > Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 7:49 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Tow Bar Blues > > > > My understanding is that this is something you do not want to do unless > > you > > disconnect the prop shaft. The reasoning is that the oil is circulated > > through the tranny by the rotation of the input shaft and if you tow in > > neutral > > the input shaft is stationary while the tranny is turning. I have also > > been > > told that this is a lot of hooey, but I also know of a bugeye in which the > > tranny failed as the result of doing so. > > > > YMMV > > > > David Lylis > > 69 TR6 CC26160L > > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. > > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > You are subscribed as triumph at 2simpleusa.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jan 31 20:25:13 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 22:25:13 EST Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues Message-ID: In a message dated 1/31/2008 8:10:01 PM Central Standard Time, triumph at 2simpleusa.com writes: > I think this somewhat akin to the brake fluid, gearbox oil and other such > unresolved matters of how the universe works. A standard manual trans. does > > not have an oil pump (unlike an auto trans that does). The oil is > distributed by the rotation of the various shafts. > > I think it is something of an urban legend that the gearbox will suffer from > > towing ... however, everything in moderation. I have towed manual trans > cars hundreds of miles when I was younger (and all old British cars since I > was in the UK at the time) without any ill effect. However, if I was going > to tow any great distance here in the US, I would probably remove the prop > shaft given how easy it is to get to. > No urban legend. The problem is that with the engine off all the parts down in the oil are not turning so there is no oil distribution. Then the main shaft turns inside the now stationary gears since the layshaft is stationary and the only lubrication is the residual oil in the bronze bushings. If the car had been run recently you may get by with a 100 mile tow but why risk it? Dave BTW I had a TR6 transmission fail some years after a flat tow of about 60 miles. From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Jan 31 20:41:36 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 22:41:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues Message-ID: <00f301c86484$59266bd0$670fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> I didn't know that! My education on the mechanical side stopped once I could afford a car that I didn't have to wrench on every weekend to keep it going ... which was about 1975, so my mechanical knowledge is perfectly tuned for a TR6 ... anything later, I'll keep quiet! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: "Tony Gordon" ; ; "TR list" > > Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 9:34 PM > Subject: Re: Re: [TR] Tow Bar Blues > > >> Tony, TR2 - 6 does not ahve a pump. But all 5 speed TR7 & TR8's have an >> oil pump. Ted >>> >>> From: "Tony Gordon" >>> Date: Thu Jan 31, 9:09 PM >>> To: , "TR list" >>> Subject: Re: [TR] Tow Bar Blues >>> >>> I think this somewhat akin to the brake fluid, gearbox oil and other >>> such >>> unresolved matters of how the universe works. A standard manual trans. >>> does >>> not have an oil pump (unlike an auto trans that does). The oil is >>> distributed by the rotation of the various shafts. >>> >>> I think it is something of an urban legend that the gearbox will suffer >>> from >>> towing ... however, everything in moderation. I have towed manual trans >>> cars hundreds of miles when I was younger (and all old British cars >>> since I >>> was in the UK at the time) without any ill effect. However, if I was >>> going >>> to tow any great distance here in the US, I would probably remove the >>> prop >>> shaft given how easy it is to get to. >>> >>> ************************************** >>> Tony Gordon >>> 72 TR6 >>> ************************************** From fishplate at charter.net Thu Jan 31 20:56:13 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 22:56:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Accelerator Shaft Bearing/Bushing In-Reply-To: <000801c8645e$afe73dd0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000801c8645e$afe73dd0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080201035609.DXSQ17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 06:11 PM 1/31/2008, Bob Danielson wrote: > I've heard horror stories about installing these nylon shaft bearings #19 >(http://tinyurl.com/yvq8qf) so I was very pleased when they went in without >too much trouble. The problem now is getting the accelerator shaft back >through them as there isn't enough room in the driver's foot well to >accommodate the length of the shaft. Before I start tearing things apart, >does removing the interior carpeted panel free up room or do I have to >remove the bearing from the car, slide it over the shaft and work it back on >to the car once the shaft is in place? Bob, I did this earlier this year in my '75, it took the better part of a summer day. The first bushing took about 45 minutes to fit into the hole, the second one seemed to take a week! Once I got the bushings in, I was able to find a way to install the shaft. I can't recall exactly how, though I could probably do it again if I had to. I didn't remove any carpet, though I wished the other pedals weren't in the way. I did manage to finagle it into place, though, after a while. I thought putting the shaft in was easier than putting the bushings in. But perhaps mine hadn't worn so far that the holes in the body were enlarged... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/ Athens, Georgia #354 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.18/1254 - Release Date: 1/31/2008 8:30 PM From mrv8q at aim.com Thu Jan 31 21:06:42 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 23:06:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] switch or knob refurbishing In-Reply-To: <002a01c86457$63c61f40$8215a8c0@garage.local> References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan><05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><009701c8620e$1a7e05f0$03d30c47@alan> <01bc01c863a6$f9219df0$03d30c47@alan> <002a01c86457$63c61f40$8215a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <8CA329EFC9A7C88-A48-8140@webmail-nf18.sim.aol.com> Someone on the list told me about using a white Crayonb" for the TR3 knob lettering..... I concur, works like a champ! Best, Kevin Browne TR3A and TR6 ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AIM(R) Mail ! - http://webmail.aim.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 31 22:36:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 21:36:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues In-Reply-To: <20080201023430.TJIP2859.invictus@[209.143.0.77]> Message-ID: <20080201053644.FZWG5295.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Tony, TR2 - 6 does not ahve a pump. Late TR6 with OD also have a pump. The mainshaft is drilled to carry oil from the OD pump to the bushings inside the main gearbox. Randall From tom628 at verizon.net Thu Jan 31 23:01:31 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 01:01:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] [TR6] engine swap / motor skip References: <000601c863ab$ff76eac0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <008201c86497$e5447f90$2f01a8c0@Toms> Al: How does the #2 plug look when you pull it after running? Will a known good plug grounded against the block , with #2 wire attached, produce a good spark? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> To: ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 8:52 PM Subject: [TR] [TR6] engine swap / motor skip >> Randal was right. >> Cam is non stock; supposed to be a 270 cam. >> >> I reset the valves to .012 inake & .014 exhaust. >> >> Better, but still skipping. >> I went on the electrical hunt: >> Changed Plugs, still skipping. >> Changed plug wires, nothing yet. >> Changed distributer cap. Some improvement, At least car could go down >> the >> Street. >> Went about 10 miles, Alternator light started coming on, started >> skipping >> some more. >> There still doesn't seem to be any spark in # 2 cylinder. >> At least when I unplug # 2 theres no difference. >> If I unplug any of the other spark plugs the idle changes. >> >> Running out of ideas >> >> Al > _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 31 23:07:59 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 22:07:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] engine swap / motor skip In-Reply-To: <01bc01c863a6$f9219df0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <20080201060759.WRZP4230.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > There still doesn't seem to be any spark in # 2 cylinder. > At least when I unplug # 2 theres no difference. > If I unplug any of the other spark plugs the idle changes. > > Running out of ideas What are your compression readings ? If you have a timing light, try connecting it to the #2 plug lead and see if it works. Try removing #2 plug, connecting the plug wire to it, then laying or holding the metal shell against a grounded surface while someone cranks the engine. That will let you examine the spark. I have seen it happen that brand new plugs get glazed within just a few miles when run in a motor with other problems. Then when you solve the other problems, the glazed plug still causes a misfire. So another thing to try is swapping the #2 plug with another cylinder to ensure the problem stays at #2. Do the same thing with the plug wire. How much timing scatter do you see ? Have you checked the point gap after #2 fires ? Just a few things to try ... Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 31 22:38:27 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 21:38:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080201053827.SZQM15146.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > The problem with a stock TR2-4 is that the front > suspension has zero castor, so the wheels will not return to > the center on their own. And for the same reason, they don't follow a tow bar well when starting a corner. Except of course for later TR4, which did have some castor. Randall