[TR] solenoid or starter?

[Kinderlehrer]

So why not eliminate the solenoid as the source of the problem first by 
shorting it out with a screwdriver, pliers, or jumper cable? It's a lot 
easier than pulling the starter apart. Well, easier than putting it back 
together anyway. Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] solenoid or starter?


>> Is there historical precedent (well, we are in
>> the midst of a pecedential campaign, are we not?) for
>> starters getting weaker?  Or solenoid terminals to crude up
>> such that it still closes and the starter still turns but
>> just has too much resistance?
>
> Unfortunately yes, on both counts.  And telling the difference for certain
> can be tricky without the ability to measure how much current the starter 
> is
> drawing.  But as noted, usually the problem becomes very obvious once you
> disassemble the starter and examine it.
>
> I would start by cranking for a bit then immediately feeling along the
> battery cables, plus the solenoid and cable from solenoid to starter (if
> separate on a Spit).  If you don't find an obvious hot spot (indicating a
> high resistance at that point), then pull and disassemble the starter.
>
> Last time I went through this on the TR3A, it turned out that one of the
> brush leads inside the starter had gotten loose and was being cut through 
> by
> the armature.  More recently, a Stag starter proved to have a segment
> missing from the commutator and a broken brush lead.  Both would still 
> kind
> of turn the engine, but sucked way more current than they should and 
> turned
> very slowly.  You can also get similar symptoms from a worn bearing that
> allows the armature to drag on the pole pieces (so look for signs of
> rubbing).
>
> Randall