From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 05:42:58 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 04:42:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January   2008 Donor Car status report
In-Reply-To: <005501c8649b$38fe2f70$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
Message-ID: <63850.87247.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

OK list members.
   
  i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
   
  ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that please?

Ed Bratt <bratt at sasktel.net> wrote:
  Glenn:

You see some pretty nice Stags for sale at reasonable prices.

http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&ID=1188577522&Lang=English

Ed Bratt
Regina Saskatchewan
1976 TR6

----- Original Message ----- 

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Feb  1 06:40:25 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 08:40:25 EST
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January   2008 Donor  Stag
Message-ID: <d62.1121de28.34d47b49@cs.com>

Lists:

Dave, This looks like a very nice Stag for the money.

http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&
ID=1188577522&Lang=English

I think JonMac would look good in this car.

I am in for $100   if the transaction proceeds.

Regards,,

Joe A
Jesup, Iowa

PS: This will enhance the Triumph name and the value of Stags, certainly.


> OK list members.
>    
>   i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>    
>   ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
> please?
> 
> 

   </HTML>

From triosan at gmail.com  Fri Feb  1 09:19:25 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 08:19:25 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January  2008 Donor Car status report
In-Reply-To: <63850.87247.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <005501c8649b$38fe2f70$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
	<63850.87247.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802010819y6dba8a74r7195eb0536f56a05@mail.gmail.com>

Good looking car.  Hope it will work for the "Drive".

I will donate $100.  Who does the check go to?

Chuck

On Feb 1, 2008 4:42 AM, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> OK list members.
>
>  i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>
>  ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that
> please?
>
> Ed Bratt <bratt at sasktel.net> wrote:
>  Glenn:
>
> You see some pretty nice Stags for sale at reasonable prices.
>
>
> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>
> Ed Bratt
> Regina Saskatchewan
> 1976 TR6
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Fri Feb  1 10:13:27 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 09:13:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] Accelerator Shaft Bearing/Bushing
References: <000801c8645e$afe73dd0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <005501c864f5$c29292d0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Hi Bob,
I re-did my accelerator shaft & bearing assy last fall on my TR3. I had the
carpet out of the way. I had to install the nylon bearings loosely on the
shaft after you thread the accelerator pedal into engine compartment.
Then you can tighten down the nylon bushing holders to the firewall.
The hardest part I had, was when I powder-coated the accelerator shaft and
made the diameter of the shaft thicker. I then had to grind down the inside
dia. of the brass bushing that is used to hold the accelerator shaft in place
& keep it from sliding.
There was no problem with dia of the nylon bushing, only the brass bushings.
(keeper or stop)
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Danielson
  To: Triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 3:11 PM
  Subject: [TR] Accelerator Shaft Bearing/Bushing


  I've heard horror stories about installing these nylon shaft bearings #19
  (http://tinyurl.com/yvq8qf) so I was very pleased when they went in without
  too much trouble. The problem now is getting the accelerator shaft back
  through them as there isn't enough room in the driver's foot well to
  accommodate the length of the shaft. Before I start tearing things apart,
  does removing the interior carpeted panel free up room or do I have to
  remove the bearing from the car, slide it over the shaft and work it back
on
  to the car once the shaft is in place?

  Thanks

  Bob

  Bob Danielson
  1975 TR6 CF38503U
  Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org



  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.17/1252 - Release Date: 1/30/2008
  8:51 PM



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  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Fri Feb  1 10:27:42 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 12:27:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January  2008 Donor Car status report
References: <005501c8649b$38fe2f70$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
	<63850.87247.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<8cbd782d0802010819y6dba8a74r7195eb0536f56a05@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007701c864f7$c0f8f520$430f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Count me in.  "FT"
====================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "Spitfires Mail List Members" <spitfires at autox.team.net>; "6-Pack" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>; "Ed Bratt" <bratt at sasktel.net>; "Triumph Triumph 
list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "TR8 Mail List Members" 
<tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>; <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 
2008 Donor Car status report


> Good looking car.  Hope it will work for the "Drive".
>
> I will donate $100.  Who does the check go to?
>
> Chuck
>
> On Feb 1, 2008 4:42 AM, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> OK list members.
>>
>>  i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>>
>>  ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that
>> please?
>>
>> Ed Bratt <bratt at sasktel.net> wrote:
>>  Glenn:
>>
>> You see some pretty nice Stags for sale at reasonable prices.
>>
>>
>> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>>
>> Ed Bratt
>> Regina Saskatchewan
>> 1976 TR6
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Chuck Arnold
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 10:38:23 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 10:38:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January    2008 Donor  Stag
In-Reply-To: <d62.1121de28.34d47b49@cs.com>
References: <d62.1121de28.34d47b49@cs.com>
Message-ID: <47A3590F.409@tscusa.org>

Joe,

Wow!! 

I think it is a great idea for 35 listers to donate $100. 

I'll put up $100 also.  So that is now $200 and we only need 33 more 
$100, and if it can be negotiated down, the extra money can go into 
transportation costs to Illinois.

But if it is going to happen, it has to happen quickly as there are only 
16 months to get this car through a nut-n-bolt restoration.  Remember, 
regardless of initial condition, the car WILL be restored to at least a 
370 point car before the drive.  The better the car, the easier the 
concours restoration.

The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone 
putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to 
win this car back.

Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this restoration?

Lets GO!!

Glenn Merrell

N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
> Lists:
>
> Dave, This looks like a very nice Stag for the money.
>
> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&
> ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>
> I think JonMac would look good in this car.
>
> I am in for $100   if the transaction proceeds.
>
> Regards,,
>
> Joe A
> Jesup, Iowa
>
> PS: This will enhance the Triumph name and the value of Stags, certainly.
>
>
>   
>> OK list members.
>>    
>>   i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>>    
>>   ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
>> please?
>>
>>
>>     
>
>   

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Feb  1 10:48:26 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 17:48:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues
Message-ID: <020120081748.24458.47A35B6A0001B99200005F8A22069984999D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "William C. Quincy" <wquincy at cox.net>
> Several years ago I found a tow bar that matched the bumper hole  
> pattern perfectly for my TR3. I've used it many times with  
> inconsistent results when turning corners.
> Some times the front wheels refuse to turn and scrub around the  
> corner, other times the wheels turn all the way to lock, and refuse  
> to straighten up causing me to get out in traffic and  straighten the  
> wheels before I can continue down the road.
> I like towing this  car on all fours in a straight line, but would  
> like to hear from the list about why the bad behavior turning corners .

The longer the tow bar and the shorter the distance from your truck's rear axle to the trailer hitch, the fewer problems you will have with this.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Feb  1 10:55:42 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 17:55:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tow Bar Blues
Message-ID: <020120081755.11264.47A35D1E0002E32B00002C0022007340769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

> My understanding is that this is something you do not want to do unless you  
> disconnect the prop shaft.  The reasoning is that the oil is circulated  
> through the tranny by the rotation of the input shaft and if you tow in neutral  
> the input shaft is stationary while the tranny is turning.  I have also  been 
> told that this is a lot of hooey, but I also know of a bugeye in which the  
> tranny failed as the result of doing so.

This varies by car, transmission designs being different.  I fried the transmission output bearing on a Cortina GT this way.  Saturn has released a bulletin that flat-towing all their Manual cars and their early Automatic cars is OK.  Their later Automatic cars require a little electrical (I am not making this up) trickery.

You need someone that knows more about Triumph transmission design to explain which of these situations exists for your car. 

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 11:28:16 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 11:28:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January    2008 Donor  Stag - for real?
In-Reply-To: <d62.1121de28.34d47b49@cs.com>
References: <d62.1121de28.34d47b49@cs.com>
Message-ID: <47A364C0.7020201@tscusa.org>

Joe,

Wow!!

Of course, this must be validated as a genuine sale vehicle before any 
money is collected.  Is there anyone local who can go take a look at 
this car?

I think it is a great idea for 35 listers to donate $100.

Once it is validated, I'll put up $100 toward the purchase also.  So 
that is now $200 and we only need 33 more
$100, and if it can be negotiated down, the extra money can go into
transportation costs to Illinois.

But if it is going to happen, it has to happen quickly as there are only
16 months to get this car through a nut-n-bolt restoration.  Remember,
regardless of initial condition, the car WILL be restored to at least a
370 point car before the drive.  The better the car, the easier the
concours restoration.

The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone
putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to
win this car back.

Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this restoration?

Lets GO!!

Glenn Merrell

N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
> Lists:
>
> Dave, This looks like a very nice Stag for the money.
>
> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&
> ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>
> I think JonMac would look good in this car.
>
> I am in for $100   if the transaction proceeds.
>
> Regards,,
>
> Joe A
> Jesup, Iowa
>
> PS: This will enhance the Triumph name and the value of Stags, certainly.
>
>
>   
>> OK list members.
>>    
>>   i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>>    
>>   ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
>> please?
>>
>>
>>     
>
>   

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, 
dead bugs on the windshield!

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Feb  1 11:39:34 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 13:39:34 -0500
Subject: [TR]
 =?iso-8859-1?q?Triumph_Trans_AmeriCan_2009_Charity_Drive=2C_?=
 =?iso-8859-1?q?January_=A0_2008Donor_=A0Stag?=
Message-ID: <209E06A5.01247C2B.00159EE9@cs.com>

GLENN,

'OLIVER' started this ball rolling....not me.

I will support the effort, however.

JOE ALEXANDER


>Joe,
>
>Wow!! 
>
>I think it is a great idea for 35 listers to donate $100. 
>
>I'll put up $100 also.  So that is now $200 and we only need 33 more 
>$100, and if it can be negotiated down, the extra money can go into 
>transportation costs to Illinois.
>
>But if it is going to happen, it has to happen quickly as there are only 
>16 months to get this car through a nut-n-bolt restoration.  Remember, 
>regardless of initial condition, the car WILL be restored to at least a 
>370 point car before the drive.  The better the car, the easier the 
>concours restoration.
>
>The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone 
>putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to 
>win this car back.
>
>Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this restoration?
>
>Lets GO!!
>
>Glenn Merrell
>
>N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>> Lists:
>>
>> Dave, This looks like a very nice Stag for the money.
>>
>> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&
>> ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>>
>> I think JonMac would look good in this car.
>>
>> I am in for $100   if the transaction proceeds.
>>
>> Regards,,
>>
>> Joe A
>> Jesup, Iowa
>>
>> PS: This will enhance the Triumph name and the value of Stags, certainly.
>>
>>
>>   
>>> OK list members.
>>>    
>>>   i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>>>    
>>>   ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
>>> please?
>>>
>>>
>>>     
>>
>>   
>
>-- 
>Glenn A. Merrell
>Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
>The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Feb  1 11:44:29 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 13:44:29 -0500
Subject: [TR]
 =?iso-8859-1?q?Triumph_Trans_AmeriCan_2009_Charity_Drive=2C_?=
 =?iso-8859-1?q?January_=A0_2008Donor_=A0Stag_-_for_real=3F?=
Message-ID: <121CCA72.6E7A7BAB.00159EE9@cs.com>

GEORGIA  TRIUMPH ASSOCIATION comes to mind...like RONNIE & ASHFORD.

>Joe,
>
>Wow!!
>
>Of course, this must be validated as a genuine sale vehicle before any 
>money is collected.  Is there anyone local who can go take a look at 
>this car?
>
>I think it is a great idea for 35 listers to donate $100.
>
>Once it is validated, I'll put up $100 toward the purchase also.  So 
>that is now $200 and we only need 33 more
>$100, and if it can be negotiated down, the extra money can go into
>transportation costs to Illinois.
>
>But if it is going to happen, it has to happen quickly as there are only
>16 months to get this car through a nut-n-bolt restoration.  Remember,
>regardless of initial condition, the car WILL be restored to at least a
>370 point car before the drive.  The better the car, the easier the
>concours restoration.
>
>The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone
>putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to
>win this car back.
>
>Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this restoration?
>
>Lets GO!!
>
>Glenn Merrell
>
>N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>> Lists:
>>
>> Dave, This looks like a very nice Stag for the money.
>>
>> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&
>> ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>>
>> I think JonMac would look good in this car.
>>
>> I am in for $100   if the transaction proceeds.
>>
>> Regards,,
>>
>> Joe A
>> Jesup, Iowa
>>
>> PS: This will enhance the Triumph name and the value of Stags, certainly.
>>
>>
>>   
>>> OK list members.
>>>    
>>>   i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>>>    
>>>   ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
>>> please?
>>>
>>>
>>>     
>>
>>   
>
>-- 
>Glenn A. Merrell
>Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
>The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, 
>dead bugs on the windshield!

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Feb  1 12:26:28 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 14:26:28 EST
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January     2008 Donor  Stag
Message-ID: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/1/2008 11:39:06 AM Central Standard Time, 
StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: 
> The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone 
> putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to 
> win this car back.
> 
> Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this restoration?
> 
> 
I'm in.  How many does that make?   

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 12:35:28 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 13:35:28 -0600
Subject: [TR]
 =?iso-8859-1?q?Triumph_Trans_AmeriCan_2009_Charity_Drive=2C_?=
 =?iso-8859-1?q?January_=A0_2008Donor_=A0Stag_-_for_real=3F?=
References: <121CCA72.6E7A7BAB.00159EE9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000201c86509$9bbd13b0$89090a0a@garage.local>

pledges or corrections, please send to me

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

thanks

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 13:34:42 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 13:34:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January   2008 Donor  Stag
In-Reply-To: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com>
References: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com>
Message-ID: <47A38262.30309@tscusa.org>

According to the list Oliver put up, officially 6, but I had two more 
contact me off list.  So it looks like 8 so far in about what, 30 minutes??
http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

I will be calling Jody Gorman this evening to find out the details

I will be chatting with John Macartney via Skype today to find out the 
status of the raffle ticket booklets.

Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/1/2008 11:39:06 AM Central Standard Time, 
> StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes:
>> The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone
>> putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to
>> win this car back.
>>
>> Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this 
>> restoration?
>>
>
> I'm in.  How many does that make? 
-- 

Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
SKYPE id is stagbytriumph
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Feb  1 13:43:14 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 15:43:14 EST
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January   2008 Do...
Message-ID: <bd3.179f64c8.34d4de62@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/1/2008 5:43:11 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

OK list  members.

i'll put in $100.  who'll match  me?  we need 34 others to buy this.

ed - this  probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
please?

Ed  Bratt <bratt at sasktel.net> wrote:
Glenn:



OH, and yeah, I'll donate a hundred to the cause.  Anybody want  to set up an 
account to pay by PayPal?
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Feb  1 13:46:58 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 15:46:58 EST
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January     2008 Donor  St...
Message-ID: <c0c.29ec682e.34d4df42@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/1/2008 11:29:35 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes:

But if  it is going to happen, it has to happen quickly as there are only
16 months  to get this car through a nut-n-bolt restoration.   Remember,
regardless of initial condition, the car WILL be restored to at  least a
370 point car before the drive.  The better the car, the  easier the
concours restoration.



How about I put up the whole $3400 and a little more for parts...with  Ed's 
discount of course, and keep the car after the event?
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 14:00:03 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 14:00:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January      2008 Donor  St...
In-Reply-To: <c0c.29ec682e.34d4df42@aol.com>
References: <c0c.29ec682e.34d4df42@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47A38853.3040501@tscusa.org>

BearTranserv at aol.com wrote:
> How about I put up the whole $3400 and a little more for parts...with  Ed's 
> discount of course, and keep the car after the event?
>  
> Robert B.  Houston
> Texan in New Mexico
>
> 63 TR4
Nice Robert ...
But this is a serious and bona fide event.
I' don't think the charity, nor  clubs donating the several thousand 
people hours of labor for  the nut-n-bolt restoration would go along 
with that one ...  =-O   Now that would be quite the deal, $3400 
invested for a $30K return.
The car is going to be used to generate tens of thousands to benefit 
charity in the form of the raffle the tickets sold during its drive 
across North America.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
SKYPE id is stagbytriumph
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri Feb  1 14:06:58 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 16:06:58 EST
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January      2008 Donor  S...
Message-ID: <bd9.293bb0ba.34d4e3f2@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/1/2008 3:47:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  Bear
Transerv at aol.com writes:

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet  pleasingly 
formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake  manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of  the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected 
and 
adjusted  as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan  McKay
 
 
Whatever the last bid is:  I DOUBLE  IT!
 
Seriously, I would fork over a C Note for a good  cause.  Besides I need a 
Stag sometime.
Count me in if it goes this way.
Darrell





**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 14:13:08 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 14:13:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January       2008 Donor  S...
In-Reply-To: <bd9.293bb0ba.34d4e3f2@aol.com>
References: <bd9.293bb0ba.34d4e3f2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47A38B64.50705@tscusa.org>

TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:
> Whatever the last bid is:  I DOUBLE  IT!
>  
> Seriously, I would fork over a C Note for a good  cause.  Besides I need a 
> Stag sometime.
> Count me in if it goes this way.
> Darrell
>
>   
Darrell
If you want to be placed on the list of pledging benefactor 
contributors, send your name, city/state and email contact with amount to
Oliver at sumton at sbcglobal.net
and he will add you to the list being maintained at
http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

Although the Raffle tickets have not yet been sorted or printed, my 
thinking is that each $100 donated gets a raffle ticket book in return 
once they come available.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb  1 15:31:44 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 14:31:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January    2008 Donor  Stag
In-Reply-To: <47A38262.30309@tscusa.org>
References: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com> <47A38262.30309@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <09c101c86522$39a1fd30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

I'm in, but ... doesn't it seem odd that this car has languished for 5
months at such an attractive price ?  

> I will be calling Jody Gorman this evening to find out the details

Hopefully that's the owner ...

Randall

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Feb  1 15:32:44 2008
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 17:32:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January    2008 Donor  Stag
In-Reply-To: <47A38262.30309@tscusa.org>
References: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com> <47A38262.30309@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <680ED1B05B9A4748A224A018F2DEAFEA@CarlPC>

Maybe the owner would like the tax credit?  Not sure how that would work 
since the charity hasn't been established.  but then the $100 checks could 
go toward making it roadworthy.

C


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glenn A. Merrell" <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
To: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <Spitfires at autox.team.net>; 
<tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>; "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "List Members" 
<spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 2008 
Donor Stag


> According to the list Oliver put up, officially 6, but I had two more
> contact me off list.  So it looks like 8 so far in about what, 30 
> minutes??
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/
>
> I will be calling Jody Gorman this evening to find out the details
>
> I will be chatting with John Macartney via Skype today to find out the
> status of the raffle ticket booklets.
>
> Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
>> In a message dated 2/1/2008 11:39:06 AM Central Standard Time,
>> StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes:
>>> The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone
>>> putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to
>>> win this car back.
>>>
>>> Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this
>>> restoration?
>>>
>>
>> I'm in.  How many does that make?
> -- 
>
> Glenn A. Merrell
> Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
> SKYPE id is stagbytriumph
> The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, 
> dead bugs on the windshield!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 15:53:04 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 16:53:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January     2008 Donor  Stag
References: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com> <47A38262.30309@tscusa.org>
	<09c101c86522$39a1fd30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <004001c86525$36344650$800101df@garage.local>

check it out guys n gals!!!!!!!!!!!

$1500 in less than 8 hours!!!!!!!!

Who's next?  Let's break $2k tonight!!!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 16:02:17 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 17:02:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] $$$1,600
Message-ID: <005601c86526$7fc308f0$800101df@garage.local>


From 6parts at charter.net  Fri Feb  1 16:11:11 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 18:11:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  engine swap / motor skip  Update
References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan><05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><009701c8620e$1a7e05f0$03d30c47@alan>
	<01bc01c863a6$f9219df0$03d30c47@alan>
Message-ID: <001401c86527$bc2dd7b0$03d30c47@alan>

Brought the car over to Dr. Mike this afternoon.

Compression check showed all cylinders at 160-165.
Found Distributor wasn't tight, re-checked the timing.
Still Couldn't get a smooth idle.
Checked the rotor;  One sloppy rotor.
Put new rotor on.
Now shes running smooth again.

Also, by the time I got there the oil had cleared up.

What a relief  !!!!

I redrained the oil and replaced the filter, just as an added precaution,
and we still have clear oil.

The grey must have been some residue from initally over filling it with oil.

Thanks to  all

Al Salvatore

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri Feb  1 16:42:07 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 18:42:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January   2008 Donor Car status report
References: <63850.87247.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008801c8652c$1c61ff90$5918e247@DCS78M81>

I'm in -- come on guys.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Ed Bratt" <bratt at sasktel.net>; <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>; 
"TriumphTriumph list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "TR8 Mail List Members" 
<tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>; "Spitfires Mail List Members" 
<spitfires at autox.team.net>; "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 
2008 Donor Car status report


> OK list members.
>
>  i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>
>  ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
> please?
>
> Ed Bratt <bratt at sasktel.net> wrote:
>  Glenn:
>
> You see some pretty nice Stags for sale at reasonable prices.
>
> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>
> Ed Bratt
> Regina Saskatchewan
> 1976 TR6
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tfansher at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri Feb  1 16:53:06 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 18:53:06 -0500
Subject: [TR]
 =?iso-8859-1?q?Triumph_Trans_AmeriCan_2009_Charity_Drive=2C_?=
 =?iso-8859-1?q?January_=A0_2008Donor_=A0Stag_-_for_real=3F?=
References: <121CCA72.6E7A7BAB.00159EE9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <00c801c8652d$9812ed10$5918e247@DCS78M81>

There's a guy named Michael _______ who has a Stag and his wife has a TR4. 
Maybe Ashford could ask him to check out the Stag.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
To: <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>; <spitfires at autox.team.net>; 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <bratt at sasktel.net>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 
2008Donor  Stag - for real?


> GEORGIA  TRIUMPH ASSOCIATION comes to mind...like RONNIE & ASHFORD.
>
>>Joe,
>>
>>Wow!!
>>
>>Of course, this must be validated as a genuine sale vehicle before any
>>money is collected.  Is there anyone local who can go take a look at
>>this car?
>>
>>I think it is a great idea for 35 listers to donate $100.
>>
>>Once it is validated, I'll put up $100 toward the purchase also.  So
>>that is now $200 and we only need 33 more
>>$100, and if it can be negotiated down, the extra money can go into
>>transportation costs to Illinois.
>>
>>But if it is going to happen, it has to happen quickly as there are only
>>16 months to get this car through a nut-n-bolt restoration.  Remember,
>>regardless of initial condition, the car WILL be restored to at least a
>>370 point car before the drive.  The better the car, the easier the
>>concours restoration.
>>
>>The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone
>>putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to
>>win this car back.
>>
>>Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this 
>>restoration?
>>
>>Lets GO!!
>>
>>Glenn Merrell
>>
>>N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>>> Lists:
>>>
>>> Dave, This looks like a very nice Stag for the money.
>>>
>>> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&
>>> ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>>>
>>> I think JonMac would look good in this car.
>>>
>>> I am in for $100   if the transaction proceeds.
>>>
>>> Regards,,
>>>
>>> Joe A
>>> Jesup, Iowa
>>>
>>> PS: This will enhance the Triumph name and the value of Stags, 
>>> certainly.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> OK list members.
>>>>
>>>>   i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>>>>
>>>>   ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do 
>>>> that
>>>> please?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>-- 
>>Glenn A. Merrell
>>Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
>>The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint,
>>dead bugs on the windshield!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tfansher at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri Feb  1 17:01:02 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 19:01:02 -0500
Subject: [TR]
 =?iso-8859-1?q?Triumph_Trans_AmeriCan_2009_Charity_Drive=2C_?=
 =?iso-8859-1?q?January_=A0_2008Donor_=A0Stag_-_for_real=3F?=
References: <121CCA72.6E7A7BAB.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<000201c86509$9bbd13b0$89090a0a@garage.local>
Message-ID: <00fd01c8652e$b3e9bcc0$5918e247@DCS78M81>

The car's in Savannah -- Ronnie Babbitt's closer and maybe he knows of 
someone in that area that's available to look.
Tom     I am in for the $100.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>; <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>; <spitfires at autox.team.net>; 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <bratt at sasktel.net>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 
2008Donor  Stag - for real?


> pledges or corrections, please send to me
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/
>
> thanks
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tfansher at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 17:09:01 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 17:09:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January  2008 Donor  Stag
In-Reply-To: <09c101c86522$39a1fd30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com> <47A38262.30309@tscusa.org>
	<09c101c86522$39a1fd30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <47A3B49D.4050309@tscusa.org>

Randall wrote:
> I'm in, but ... doesn't it seem odd that this car has languished for 5
> months at such an attractive price ?  
>   
>> I will be calling Jody Gorman this evening to find out the details
>>     
>
> Hopefully that's the owner ...
>
> Randall
Fortunately one of our Club members in Georgia has received a bunch of 
photos from the owner and talked to the owner on the car condition a 
while back.  I am looking them over now.  The car, aside from being an 
early sanction 1971 vehicle (early or mark I)  has a few issues but 
considering it is to be restored, that is not a problem.  We could 
discuss with the owner about a donation.

However, ISOA also has a nice 1973 Stag lined up for a purchase that is 
$3300, and already in Illinois so transportation would be quite a bit 
less cost and effort.

 So one way or the other, the pledges will be able to be spent toward 
acquiring  a car for John.

I think this brings up the need to get an online pledge list rolling so 
when the North American charity side of things is set up, we have a list 
of pledges and can give proper tax deduction documentation for the 
monies collected.  My goal there is to have those details sorted by the 
end of February 2008.

I am happy to see such response toward this event at such an early 
period.  Do keep it up as we get the final details ironed out.

Cheers!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
SKYPE id stagbytriumph
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Feb  1 17:09:42 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 00:09:42 -0000
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive - DONATIONS TO
 BUY STAG
References: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com>
	<47A38262.30309@tscusa.org><09c101c86522$39a1fd30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<004001c86525$36344650$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <00a601c8652f$e967ee70$0201a8c0@Bevan>

You guys are absolutely FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I really can't thank you enough for rallying round so soon, so quickly - and so generously.

Could this be a bit of bit of AmeriCan versus British competition? The UK Spitfire that's being 
raffled in the UK and Ireland only, came into our custodianship today - and I've already added it to 
Joe Curry's international database. This is a MINT Spitfire and whoever wins it in September 2009 
will have one helluva car. There are a few pix on the event website www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk 
but I'll be putting up a presentation of a further 20 odd pix I took of it a week ago.

Cheers, Jonmac


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 2008 Donor Stag


> check it out guys n gals!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> $1500 in less than 8 hours!!!!!!!!
>
> Who's next?  Let's break $2k tonight!!!
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 18:25:29 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 19:25:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!
Message-ID: <003a01c8653a$9be89a40$800101df@garage.local>

$$$2,100!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

You people are great!

Several have asked where to send the money.  I recommend that we send it to
whomever is going to actually physically take possession of the automobile.

I'll get my cut later.   (kidding)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 19:43:29 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 20:43:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] $2,900
Message-ID: <002101c86545$66eff5d0$800101df@garage.local>

We are SO close!!!!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From roschmug at isoc.net  Fri Feb  1 21:16:17 2008
From: roschmug at isoc.net (Robert Schmuelling)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 23:16:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January       2008 Donor  Stag
Message-ID: <EFB17223-2669-4159-93A0-412CF9907749@isoc.net>

Me too Glenn......we're gaining some momentum.    I'm in for $100.

Rob

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Fri Feb  1 21:41:03 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 23:41:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 skid plate blockage?
Message-ID: <002401c86555$d2088b60$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Ever since I read the account of the TR3 that 'snagged' a too high railroad
track that it was crossing, I sought to install skid plate hopefully to
prevent this on my car.  I also work in a RR track area.

I fashioned a 1/4" plate of steel to go about two inches forward of the
radiator and running back over a foot in length until it lips over the forward
crossmember.  The width of it extends between the car's rails.
It runs about 1/2" below the radiator.  I am installing an electric fan.

I've yet to have my TR3 roadworthy, however, I'd like to ask a question about
this homemade 'skip plate'.  Is it going to block a sufficient amount of air?
Are there other problems with this idea?

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Fri Feb  1 21:47:30 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 20:47:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] Steering Box Pitman Arm Torque
Message-ID: <47A3F5E2.9060306@comcast.net>

Anybody know what the proper torque is for the nut that attaches the
pitman arm to a TR3 steering box?

My Standard Triumph shop manual doesn't provide a value for this.

Thanks,

Mike

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 22:32:57 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 23:32:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] $3,300
Message-ID: <002401c8655d$131c12f0$800101df@garage.local>

We are SO close!!!!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sat Feb  2 01:39:20 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2008 03:39:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] $3,300
References: <002401c8655d$131c12f0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <001801c86577$1ba04120$430f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

> We are SO close!!!!
================================================================================================
I have wondered for a long time why I am so "proud" to own a "Triumph Sports 
Car", well tonight a group of owners came together for a very good cause and 
filled a "Dream Come True" for a bunch of very sick and injured Canadian and 
American Servicemen, gosh, I'm so "PROUD" my tiny LBC stands amongst so many 
giants. I'm so "Proud" of each and everyone of you, I think the next move 
might be "WE WILL GET THE JOB DONE". From the bottom of my Heart, "THANKS 
LBC'ers"        "FT" 

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Feb  2 05:12:17 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 07:12:17 EST
Subject: [TR] Steering Box Pitman Arm Torque
Message-ID: <d3a.1b8e2915.34d5b821@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/1/2008 11:46:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mlang99 at comcast.net writes:

My  Standard Triumph shop manual doesn't provide a value for  this.



I first put a little teflon grease on the splines to reduce friction  and 
then I tightened mine down as hard as I could with the assembly held in a  vice.  
I then tapped the arm down on the splines to make sure all was  seated, and 
then tightened again.  Making sure the tab washer is tight  against the nut 
should do it.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb  2 06:01:34 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 07:01:34 -0600
Subject: [TR] $3,600
Message-ID: <001c01c8659b$c13d1080$800101df@garage.local>

The next question, which a number of you have asked, is where do i send the
money?

I'm working on it!  We'll get this answered in the next day or two.

You guys n gals are great!!!!!!!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sat Feb  2 08:12:34 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 10:12:34 EST
Subject: [TR] TS4, TS7
Message-ID: <be1.2bc51b60.34d5e262@aol.com>

Does anyone know where these are? They were each sold new by CalSales in  LA. 
TS7 was alleged to have been on the market several years ago.
Thanks, Mike Moore 
TS41723L



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Sat Feb  2 08:13:14 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 10:13:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] $3,600
In-Reply-To: <001c01c8659b$c13d1080$800101df@garage.local>
References: <001c01c8659b$c13d1080$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <F7946ABB-17D4-4C5E-8B33-DEB6F68CBBE4@mindspring.com>

I'm happy to report that the GTA is onboard for a hundred dollar  
contribution.


Ashford Little
Director Georgia Triumph Association
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6




On Feb 2, 2008, at 8:01 AM, Oliver wrote:

> The next question, which a number of you have asked, is where do i  
> send the
> money?
>
> I'm working on it!  We'll get this answered in the next day or two.
>
> You guys n gals are great!!!!!!!
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From Oldpine47 at Comcast.Net  Sat Feb  2 08:38:05 2008
From: Oldpine47 at Comcast.Net (Frederick M Light)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 10:38:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <001301c865b1$9b1a0690$6501a8c0@FrederickLight>

Hi Team,

My TR3 tub will soon be back to me after a few weeks in the body shop.  I
still have a lot of work to do after I get it back.   I am looking for an auto
body Rotisserie.  I have seen the ones listed at various sites, but am not
really interested in spending $800+ for something I will use once.  Does
anyone in the eastern Pa area have one for sale or any idea of a reasonable
substitute so I can safely work the underside of the tub.

TIA

Fred  TS 57038

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Feb  2 08:42:47 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 08:42:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <001301c865b1$9b1a0690$6501a8c0@FrederickLight>
References: <001301c865b1$9b1a0690$6501a8c0@FrederickLight>
Message-ID: <000001c865b2$42ead750$0202a8c0@newcomputer>

One Creative person built one using two engine stands he purchased very
reasonably from Harbor Freight.  All he has to do is fabricate the mounts
for the front and rear of the car that go into the pivot holes in the stands
and tie the bases together.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----

Hi Team,

My TR3 tub will soon be back to me after a few weeks in the body shop.  I
still have a lot of work to do after I get it back.   I am looking for an
auto
body Rotisserie.  I have seen the ones listed at various sites, but am not
really interested in spending $800+ for something I will use once.  Does
anyone in the eastern Pa area have one for sale or any idea of a reasonable
substitute so I can safely work the underside of the tub.

TIA

Fred  TS 57038

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Sat Feb  2 09:23:19 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 11:23:19 EST
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <cac.277c7b79.34d5f2f7@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/2/2008 8:38:18 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
Oldpine47 at Comcast.Net writes:

I have  seen the ones listed at various sites, but am not
really interested in  spending $800+ for something I will use once.  Does
anyone in the  eastern Pa area have one for sale or any idea of a reasonable
substitute so  I can safely work the underside of the  tub.

TIA




I don't know the sites offhand that illustrate this, but he spridget guys  
have used two engine stands, one for each end, with an angle iron adapter to  
bolt to the bumper mounts at each end.  There's also a few that made a  plywood 
and two by four octagon for each end and bolted it to the same bumper  mounts. 
 The octagon was 5 or 6 feet tall, and allowed 8 aspects for work  on the 
tubs.
 
The engine stands are  usually under $150 on sale, you probably  already have 
one, and you don't need the most heavy duty for a tub.
 
One fellow, again for a Spridget, just mounted a 4x4 upright in his shop,  
from floor to rafter, ran a bolt through the middle of it at the appropriate  
height, and bolted his angle iron to that.  This idea kind of limits where  you 
can put the tub, but is probably the cheapest of all.
 
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven  of the shop manual.



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Feb  2 10:19:19 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 10:19:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <000001c865b2$42ead750$0202a8c0@newcomputer>
References: <001301c865b1$9b1a0690$6501a8c0@FrederickLight>
	<000001c865b2$42ead750$0202a8c0@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <003001c865bf$c0335e50$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Here is the URL for that guy:
http://www.ponypics.com/spitfire/rotisserie.html

Pretty resourceful, says it cost him less than $150.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day!
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe
Curry
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 8:43 AM
To: 'Frederick M Light'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)

One Creative person built one using two engine stands he purchased very
reasonably from Harbor Freight.  All he has to do is fabricate the mounts
for the front and rear of the car that go into the pivot holes in the stands
and tie the bases together.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----

Hi Team,

My TR3 tub will soon be back to me after a few weeks in the body shop.  I
still have a lot of work to do after I get it back.   I am looking for an
auto
body Rotisserie.  I have seen the ones listed at various sites, but am not
really interested in spending $800+ for something I will use once.  Does
anyone in the eastern Pa area have one for sale or any idea of a reasonable
substitute so I can safely work the underside of the tub.

TIA

Fred  TS 57038
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.19/1256 - Release Date: 2/2/2008
1:50 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.19/1256 - Release Date: 2/2/2008
1:50 PM

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Feb  2 11:05:25 2008
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org)
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2008 13:05:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rotisserie...was No Subject :-)
Message-ID: <19263143.202641201975525052.JavaMail.servlet@perfora>

As others have noted, you can make one up with 2 engine stands. Someone has a site showing how he made his up with 2 of the $35 stands that Harbor Frieght sells. If I can find the site again, I'll post the link

Bob Danielson

Hi Team,

My TR3 tub will soon be back to me after a few weeks in the body shop.  I
still have a lot of work to do after I get it back.   I am looking for an auto
body Rotisserie.  I have seen the ones listed at various sites, but am not
really interested in spending $800+ for something I will use once.  Does
anyone in the eastern Pa area have one for sale or any idea of a reasonable
substitute so I can safely work the underside of the tub.

TIA

Fred  TS 57038
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From vkwong at celestica.com  Sat Feb  2 14:02:20 2008
From: vkwong at celestica.com (Vincent Kwong)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 16:02:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office
Message-ID: <OF9C6AED67.5ADD1EEC-ON852573E3.00739208-852573E3.00739208@celestica.com>

I will be out of the office starting  02/02/2008 and will not return until
02/11/2008.


For urgent business issues, please contact my manager Peter Barber at
x6231.

Vincent Kwong

From klassiccar at aol.com  Sat Feb  2 15:04:32 2008
From: klassiccar at aol.com (klassiccar at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2008 17:04:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hope Lodge show
Message-ID: <8CA33FEB95ADE34-CD0-57ED@WEBMAIL-DG12.sim.aol.com>

May 31, 2008. Southeastern Pennsylvania. Cars of England at Historic Hope Lodge (formerly named The Brits are Back). The Delaware Valley Triumph Club and Delaware Valley Jaguar Club have joined forces to host a revamped concours show.

For info and flyer contact me:
Steve Klein
klassiccar at aol.com
610-825-2617

Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb  2 15:26:04 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 16:26:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] $4,400
Message-ID: <00b901c865ea$9d22df00$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

The Georgia Triumph Club has added a donation.  How about some of the other
clubs kicking in some $$$

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sat Feb  2 16:24:39 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 18:24:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
In-Reply-To: <000001c865b2$42ead750$0202a8c0@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <000501c865f2$c8547b90$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1>

Posters:

For a couple of years I have been looking for lightweight sidescreens, as my
screens cause the doors to sag and require a degree of lifting to close them
properly.  Today I bought a TR3A for shipping to England and there were a
pair of AMCO sidescreens in the trunk - joy !

But they are in need of restoration:  does anyone have the name of someone
who could restore then (replace the windows and leather) ?  Thanks !

Andrew Uprichard
1622 TR3B
1959 TR3A

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb  2 16:41:52 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 17:41:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] note from jonmac
Message-ID: <000801c865f5$36b19620$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Feb  2 20:34:54 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2008 19:34:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] note from jonmac
References: <000801c865f5$36b19620$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <001601c86615$bdbb3c50$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Oliver,
I see the total is $4400.
Count me in for $100. to bump it to $4500.
Bob Peglow, Franklin Square, NY


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: [6pack] note from jonmac


> http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Feb  2 17:37:14 2008
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org)
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2008 19:37:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking Collar
Message-ID: <13701880.228671201999034037.JavaMail.servlet@perfora>

Maybe an obvious question but........do you put a 3/8" locking collar on a 3/8" shaft OR do you go down a size or two with the collar to ensure a good tight fit?

Thanks

Bob Danielson....babysitting the grandkids :-)

From mathews at uga.edu  Sat Feb  2 17:37:34 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2008 19:37:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
In-Reply-To: <000501c865f2$c8547b90$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1>
References: <000001c865b2$42ead750$0202a8c0@newcomputer>
	<000501c865f2$c8547b90$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <20080203003741.87806187642@autox.team.net>

Andrew,

It amazing that your TR3B was made by the Pilgrims only 2 years after 
they landed! ;-)

Doug

At 06:24 PM 2/2/2008, you wrote:
>Andrew Uprichard
>1622 TR3B
>1959 TR3A
>_______________________________________________

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb  2 17:49:13 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 18:49:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] $4,700
Message-ID: <002901c865fe$9b0ae460$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sat Feb  2 18:20:29 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 20:20:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
Message-ID: <000f01c86602$f70cad30$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1>

Oops - thank thee, brother...

 

 

  _____  

From: Doug Mathews [mailto:mathews at uga.edu] 
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 7:38 PM
To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?

 

Andrew,

It amazing that your TR3B was made by the Pilgrims only 2 years after they
landed! ;-)

Doug

At 06:24 PM 2/2/2008, you wrote:



Andrew Uprichard
1622 TR3B
1959 TR3A
_______________________________________________

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Sat Feb  2 19:52:09 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 21:52:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Aftermarket damper for TR6
Message-ID: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>

Where might I find an aftermarket high quality damper for my TR6?   
Current one is toast and was rebuilt not that long ago.

Thanks,


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Sun Feb  3 04:16:17 2008
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 12:16:17 +0100
Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office
References: <OF9C6AED67.5ADD1EEC-ON852573E3.00739208-852573E3.00739208@celestica.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c86656$32a9f980$0500a8c0@Study>

I'm a little concerned that Vincent's absence has attracted so little 
attention so far.
What's the problem listers? Don't any of you care about Vincent?

Well, having read the email I for one shall take note and will not be 
emailing Vincent before 11th Feb. Perhaps not even after that.

David Brister. 

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sun Feb  3 05:38:55 2008
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 12:38:55 -0000
Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office
References: <OF9C6AED67.5ADD1EEC-ON852573E3.00739208-852573E3.00739208@celestica.com>
	<000c01c86656$32a9f980$0500a8c0@Study>
Message-ID: <005d01c86661$c1bc8ec0$9f550352@Platinum>

I do think Supermans sidekick ran that one to its limit.

Adrian
TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Brister" <david.brister at wanadoo.fr>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office


> I'm a little concerned that Vincent's absence has attracted so little
> attention so far.
> What's the problem listers? Don't any of you care about Vincent?
>
> Well, having read the email I for one shall take note and will not be
> emailing Vincent before 11th Feb. Perhaps not even after that.
>
> David Brister.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.19/1256 - Release Date: 
> 02/02/2008 13:50

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Feb  3 08:06:19 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 10:06:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] fuse rating
Message-ID: <200802031006.19407.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

Does anyone know the fuse rating for a 12v Triumph AM radio that came with the 
TR4 model?

I have installed an inline fuse but only had the std 25 and 50 amp lucas fuses 
to use. 

I am guessing maybe 5 amp?

Thanks,

Bob

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb  3 07:31:37 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 08:31:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] dash repair - kind of ot
Message-ID: <000d01c86671$7f5ae4e0$800101df@garage.local>

hi, all.

my dash is in good condition, but my ultra cheapskate brother in law wants to
fix the dashboard on his 20 year old pickup.

istr instructions somewhere on how to do this yourself???????

thanks.

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Feb  3 08:06:39 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2008 10:06:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] dash repair - kind of ot
In-Reply-To: <000d01c86671$7f5ae4e0$800101df@garage.local>
References: <000d01c86671$7f5ae4e0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <20080203150640.DPXY17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 09:31 AM 2/3/2008, Oliver wrote:

>hi, all.
>
>my dash is in good condition, but my ultra cheapskate brother in law wants to
>fix the dashboard on his 20 year old pickup.
>
>istr instructions somewhere on how to do this yourself???????

One man's Triumphant solution...

<http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/67t_dashtop.htm>

I reckon it would work on other things too...



Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/
Athens, Georgia         #354 


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.19/1256 - Release Date: 2/2/2008 1:50 PM

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Feb  3 08:33:19 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 15:33:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office
In-Reply-To: <000c01c86656$32a9f980$0500a8c0@Study>
References: <OF9C6AED67.5ADD1EEC-ON852573E3.00739208-852573E3.00739208@celestica.com>
	<000c01c86656$32a9f980$0500a8c0@Study>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W151522245E6B93BED73709E5320@phx.gbl>

Vincent seems to leave the office for extended periods quite often.  I am
beginning to wonder if he isn't making recurring trips to rehab.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 12:16:17 +0100
> Subject: Re: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office
>
> I'm a little concerned that Vincent's absence has attracted so little
> attention so far.
> What's the problem listers? Don't any of you care about Vincent?
>
> Well, having read the email I for one shall take note and will not be
> emailing Vincent before 11th Feb. Perhaps not even after that.
>
> David Brister.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
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From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Feb  3 10:24:11 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2008 12:24:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W151522245E6B93BED73709E5320@phx.gbl>
References: <000c01c86656$32a9f980$0500a8c0@Study>
Message-ID: <47A5B26B.20881.AA02D2C@localhost>

On 3 Feb 2008 at 15:33, tom white wrote:

> Vincent seems to leave the office for extended periods quite
> often.  I am beginning to wonder if he isn't making recurring
> trips to rehab.

Not rehab, his garage.  We're talking about TRs, aren't we?


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From fmags at cox.net  Sun Feb  3 10:28:05 2008
From: fmags at cox.net (fmags)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 11:28:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] GT6 Laygear
Message-ID: <001a01c8668a$22eb8700$321e6644@debo9w9s34m23y>

Hello,

I am selling off the last of my GT6 parts and have a very nice new NOS
Laygear/cluster gear for a GT6 Mk III.  I bought it around 20 years ago, and
didn't end up using it.  I packed it in oil and just took it out of the
package to take some pictures of it.

These are very expensive and hard to find; I am asking roughly 1/2 of the
current list price for these today.  If interested please contact me off list
at fmags at cox.net.

Thanks,
Frank

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Feb  3 11:30:25 2008
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 12:30:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office
In-Reply-To: <47A5B26B.20881.AA02D2C@localhost>
References: <000c01c86656$32a9f980$0500a8c0@Study>
	<47A5B26B.20881.AA02D2C@localhost>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W42325AD4625F6B1D2E2E59E1320@phx.gbl>

I've been trying to reach his co-worker.
Anyone know of an area code of "x"?Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA'63 TR3B
TCF587LThat ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!See it moves!> From:
jimmuller at rcn.com> To: triumphs at autox.team.net> Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 12:24:11
-0500> Subject: Re: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office> > On 3 Feb 2008 at
15:33, tom white wrote:> > > Vincent seems to leave the office for extended
periods quite> > often. I am beginning to wonder if he isn't making recurring>
> trips to rehab.> > Not rehab, his garage. We're talking about TRs, aren't
we?> > > -- > Jim Muller> jimmuller at rcn.com> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+>
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Feb  3 12:33:56 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2008 12:33:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] $4,400 - take pause for planning...
In-Reply-To: <206ECCF2FA134514BE034129BB9BDFC2@FoxconnPC>
References: <00b901c865ea$9d22df00$800101df@garage.local>
	<206ECCF2FA134514BE034129BB9BDFC2@FoxconnPC>
Message-ID: <47A61724.4020707@tscusa.org>

Hugh R McAleer wrote:
> OK so the trust is on the way to getting a car - possibly the one in 
> Georgia.  If the trust does decide to go with the car pictured on 
> Oliver's list I'll offer to pick it up and bring it to ATL - the first 
> leg of it's journey.  Who is willing to take on the next leg?
>
> Hugh McAleer
> TR250 Owner and 4 Stags?????
> Zebulon, GA
> Newsletter Editor
> Georgia Triumph Association
>
Woah Boys!  Take a breath.  The people doing the bulk of the work on 
this car are ISOA.

Let's let them absorb the candidates.  One is already located in 
Illinois.  Both are good candidates, and both are for purchase using 
these funds.

So hold off for a few days ...

Thanks for all the enthusiasm!.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
TriumphStag.Net Administrator
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Feb  3 13:05:15 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 15:05:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Cleaning SU carb bodies
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIELPELAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

List,
I am getting ready to rebuild a set of SU carbs that I have and have a
refinishing question.
I would very much like to get the aluminum carb bodies back to a point that
they look like new castings. By that, I mean that they will have that
"flecked" look of new castings. I am not interested in a polished look, just
very clean.
I have a blasting cabinet and am considering walnut shells or soda blasting
as a possibility. I would also be interested in any chemical cleaning agent
that would do the same thing. I remember back when I was a teenager in the
late 60's there was a nasty carb cleaner that would have done the job but I
bet it has long since been banned. Can't think of the name of it anyway...
I have a old set of Stromberg-Zenith carbs that I can experiment on if
anybody has any suggestions for a non-polished, new casting look.
Somewhere in that process is the fact that I will need to determine if I
have to get new shaft bushings installed. I figure if I can get them cleaned
once before I have to get the shafts bushings reamed, I can to it again..
That is if they need it in the first place.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From jimhearn1 at comcast.net  Sun Feb  3 13:07:05 2008
From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 12:07:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] How can I tell if the head on my TR6 is early or late model
Message-ID: <001201c866a0$59269380$b1191718@computer>

Could anyone please tell me how can I tell if the head on my TR6 is early or
late model by looking at it externally?  I have the numbers off it if that
helps.  Some other points are that it has what is now a plugged EGR port and
the intake attaches with 3 upper bolts (one for each attaching point) and 6
lower clamps (two at each attaching point).  The extreme width of the intake
manifold where it attaches to the head is approximately 17.5 inches.  Thanks
for any help on this.

Jim in Sacramento

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Feb  3 13:19:33 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 13:19:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Cleaning SU carb bodies
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIELPELAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIELPELAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <001801c866a2$181c6bb0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Dave,

I think the nasty stuff you are thinking of is Berryman B-12 Chemdip.  I
believe it is still available but do not know if the formula is unchanged.


Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day!



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Connitt
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 1:05 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Cleaning SU carb bodies

List,
I am getting ready to rebuild a set of SU carbs that I have and have a
refinishing question.
I would very much like to get the aluminum carb bodies back to a point that
they look like new castings. By that, I mean that they will have that
"flecked" look of new castings. I am not interested in a polished look, just
very clean.
I have a blasting cabinet and am considering walnut shells or soda blasting
as a possibility. I would also be interested in any chemical cleaning agent
that would do the same thing. I remember back when I was a teenager in the
late 60's there was a nasty carb cleaner that would have done the job but I
bet it has long since been banned. Can't think of the name of it anyway...
I have a old set of Stromberg-Zenith carbs that I can experiment on if
anybody has any suggestions for a non-polished, new casting look.
Somewhere in that process is the fact that I will need to determine if I
have to get new shaft bushings installed. I figure if I can get them cleaned
once before I have to get the shafts bushings reamed, I can to it again..
That is if they need it in the first place.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

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From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb  3 13:47:21 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 12:47:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Cleaning SU carb bodies
In-Reply-To: <001801c866a2$181c6bb0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <824575.51758.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

i think you're walnut shells would be good.  i used coarse ground corn cubs with very good result.  except, uh, the fuel pump i did without disassembling.  whoops <grin>
     
  From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Connitt
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 1:05 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Cleaning SU carb bodies

List,
I am getting ready to rebuild a set of SU carbs that I have and have a
refinishing question.
I would very much like to get the aluminum carb bodies back to a point that
they look like new castings. By that, I mean that they will have that
"flecked" look of new castings. I am not interested in a polished look, just
very clean.
I have a blasting cabinet and am considering walnut shells or soda blasting
as a possibility. 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sun Feb  3 14:17:39 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2008 15:17:39 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Cleaning SU carb bodies
Message-ID: <22854713.10382051202073459723.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>

Send the carbs to Jeff at Paltech.  They will look brand new.

Craig
72 TR6

From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
Date: 2008/02/03 Sun PM 02:05:15 CST
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Cleaning SU carb bodies

List,
I am getting ready to rebuild a set of SU carbs that I have and have a
refinishing question.
I would very much like to get the aluminum carb bodies back to a point that
they look like new castings. By that, I mean that they will have that
"flecked" look of new castings. I am not interested in a polished look, just
very clean.
I have a blasting cabinet and am considering walnut shells or soda blasting
as a possibility. I would also be interested in any chemical cleaning agent
that would do the same thing. I remember back when I was a teenager in the
late 60's there was a nasty carb cleaner that would have done the job but I
bet it has long since been banned. Can't think of the name of it anyway...
I have a old set of Stromberg-Zenith carbs that I can experiment on if
anybody has any suggestions for a non-polished, new casting look.
Somewhere in that process is the fact that I will need to determine if I
have to get new shaft bushings installed. I figure if I can get them cleaned
once before I have to get the shafts bushings reamed, I can to it again..
That is if they need it in the first place.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Feb  3 15:23:15 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 17:23:15 EST
Subject: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
Message-ID: <d64.1ed66958.34d798d3@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/2/2008 5:25:07 PM Central Standard Time, 
auprichard at comcast.net writes: 
> For a couple of years I have been looking for lightweight sidescreens, as 
> my
> screens cause the doors to sag and require a degree of lifting to close them
> properly.  Today I bought a TR3A for shipping to England and there were a
> pair of AMCO sidescreens in the trunk - joy !
> 
> But they are in need of restoration:  does anyone have the name of someone
> who could restore then (replace the windows and leather) ?  Thanks !
> 
> 
The Roadster Factory has a rebuild service.

Dave   

From ray at raysmg.com  Sun Feb  3 15:41:54 2008
From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com)
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2008 15:41:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <20080203154154.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.2c8895c1e2.wbe@email.secureserver.net>

   Fred (Light) asked about building a body rotisserie...

   Fred,

   The one I built recently for my Spridget Project should work just fine
   for  a  TR3...I  intend to use it one day on mine. The engine stands I
   used  are  heavier  than those used by some others, having four wheels
   per  stand  instead of the usual three (I used heavier duty casters as
   well).

   There  is  a  narrative and a number of photos of the rotisserie, both
   during  construction  and  in use on my web site www.raysmg.com , just
   click  on the "Spridget Project" link and then "Rotisserie" or you can
   just click the following link:

   http://www.raysmg.com/rays_mg_midget_rotisserie.htm

   Hope this helps,

   Ray
   Ray McCaleb
   ray at raysmg.com
   http://www.raysmg.com

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Feb  3 17:09:49 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 19:09:49 EST
Subject: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
Message-ID: <cf0.290cb777.34d7b1cd@aol.com>

The problem with side screens, as I see it, is if you are on a trip, you  
have to choose between side screens and luggage.  Has anyone ever offered  side 
screens that collapse further than the conventional ones, and therefore  take 
up less space?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Sun Feb  3 18:37:20 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 20:37:20 EST
Subject: [TR] fuse rating
Message-ID: <c66.2835d62f.34d7c650@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/3/2008 9:20:52 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:

Does  anyone know the fuse rating for a 12v Triumph AM radio that came with 
the  
TR4 model?

I have installed an inline fuse but only had the std 25  and 50 amp lucas 
fuses 
to use. 

I am guessing maybe 5  amp?


==AM==
Too cold to run out and check, but 5 amp is what I remember...and a very  
short (length) fuse at that to fit the original inline holder.  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb  3 21:11:54 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 22:11:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] Jon Macartney Charitable Trust Donations update
Message-ID: <005201c866e4$1667b0d0$800101df@garage.local>

Hello, all.

Worked a lot on this project this weekend, and we have resolved a few things.

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

we have a location to send money to:
Sumton Network Services
3767 Forest Lane
Suite 124-335
Dallas, TX 75244-7100

This is my company which has graciously agreed to provide a safe location
where the money can be mailed.

We also have an entity to make it out to:

Red River Triumph Club

the intention of the trust is to provide a tax receipt to each of you.  we
(the red river triumph club) are a not for profit but are not a qualified tax
deductible charity.  we are going to hold the money, account for every penny,
and then, upon the approval of jonmac, forward the money to the purchasing
organization/individuals.  any residual will be used for the restoration.

This isn't perfect, but will get us going for now.  When i started this on
Friday i had no idea it would be this successful!  So let's take the momentum
and move forward.

any questions or comments feel free to email me.  I apologize for the legaleze
on the website but i was told to put it there.

thanks!

Oliver

From 6parts at charter.net  Sun Feb  3 21:47:51 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 23:47:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Aftermarket damper for TR6
References: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <009801c866e9$19414460$7719b318@alan>

 These are rebuilders:

www.damperdoctor.com   530-246-2984   Ca.

www.dalemfg.com

www.winslowmfg.net   919-938-4471  Clayton, N.C.


I think Moss sells a new one, but its the 3/8 groove which is good if thats 
the one you need.
It just doesn't have markings on it.
I guess you could also change the pulley on the alternator to match, and the 
water pump.

Who rebuilt it last time.  Did they have a warranty?

Al 

From Andy.dixon at comcast.net  Mon Feb  4 05:57:45 2008
From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 07:57:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 brakes on a TR3?
Message-ID: <007901c8672d$896d73a0$6700a8c0@andy>

Anyone have a link to an article on putting TR6 calipers on a TR3?

I thought I had one but I cant find it.

I know, most go to the 4 pot calipers, but I hear the 6 calipers are an
improvement over the 3 calipers, and I have a set (with the mounts and 3
out of 4 of the shouldered bolts) lying around in the garage.

TIA

Andy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.19/1257 - Release Date: 2/3/2008
5:49 PM

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Feb  4 06:10:47 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 08:10:47 EST
Subject: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
Message-ID: <c88.223798ae.34d868d7@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/3/2008 6:09:49 PM Central Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com 
writes: 
> The problem with side screens, as I see it, is if you are on a trip, you 
> have to choose between side screens and luggage.  Has anyone ever offered side 
> screens that collapse further than the conventional ones, and therefore take 
> up less space?
>  
> 
I have a set that have legs that fold up.  They're made of aluminum.  They 
don't fit for crap!

Dave   

From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Feb  4 07:22:29 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 09:22:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Jon Macartney Charitable Trust Donations update
References: <005201c866e4$1667b0d0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <002601c86739$68c99fa0$5918e247@DCS78M81>

Oliver, thanks for doing this for the Charitable Trust and Triumphs in 
general.
I was directing the bank to send the check to the Dallas address, when I 
realized that I could do more. So I made the check out for $250 instead of 
the hundred I had pledged.
I'm sure we'll need the extra money and if not, it will go to a worthy 
cause.  Hopefully, others who can will also give a little more.
(Not to make anyone feel guilty - just an idea)
Thanks again for your work and taking charge.
Tom Fansher
60 TR3A  -- coming back slowly
61 TR3A  -- awesome driver
62 TR4  -- will I ever have the time
73 Stag -- a lot of fun

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Feb  4 09:27:36 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:27:36 EST
Subject: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
Message-ID: <c73.263a9fd3.34d896f8@aol.com>

The PO of TS41723L drove it from LA to Chicago and return a couple of  times, 
and once from LA to Mexico City with his wife. 
He had a luggage rack.
Mike Moore 
TS41723L



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb  4 09:27:35 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 10:27:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] $5,050!!!!!!!!!!!
Message-ID: <002b01c8674a$db325990$800101df@garage.local>

FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!


http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Feb  4 10:31:09 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 12:31:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0332DE3B@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0332DE3B@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041218360.26597@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

A while back, maybe 6 years ago, I asked my machinist to look into 
alternate dampeners that'll fit the crank. It turns out that there is a 
Ford V6 application which uses the same size "snout" as TR6. 
Unfortunately, I cannot recall which Ford V6 it was, but the dimensions 
were extremely close if not exact.

The purpose of my search at the time was twofold.

First, at that time, there was NO source for new dampeners for TR6, so you 
had to go used or "rebuilt". The consensus at the time was that rebuilt 
meant something between "serviceable" and useless.

Second, I was building a motor that would very likely see bursts to 7k 
rpm. So I wanted something to help tune out the known bad harmonics in the 
crank - I was looking for something like the ATI dampeners, but at a 
Summit Racing price. I actually contacted ATI at the time, and they quoted 
me a price for a custom dampener, but I had to get them crank snout 
dimensions to the .0001" of an inch. Yes, that 10-thousandths of an inch 
(which is easy to do with a micrometer. The cost was around $500, but then 
you had to figure out how to rin the belt to the alternator and water 
pump.

Bottom line - this is do-able using off the shelf stuff and some minor 
customizations (like the bottom pulley and the water pump. The alternator 
part is easy, especially if you run a Delco alt. where you can get all 
sorts of different pulleys. Richard Good has done this on his car and I'd 
love to see him produce a kit for such a setup. But the cost will be high 
because the dampener itself is not cheap... figure $1k. That works out to 
about the cost of a reasonably worked over TR6 crankshaft (balanced, 
polish journals and some other stuff), BUT once you update the dampener 
you don't have to worry about replacing the crank every time you buzz the 
motor.

Me, for one, would love to see a kit to do this. But I imagine a critical 
mass for such an endeavore would be a lot more than "one".

:-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb  4 11:04:56 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 12:04:56 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Jon Macartney Charitable Trust Donations update
Message-ID: <000c01c86758$7499f950$800101df@garage.local>

Thank you , Tom!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "THOMAS FANSHER" <tfansher at comcast.net>
To: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Jon Macartney Charitable Trust Donations update


> Oliver, thanks for doing this for the Charitable Trust and Triumphs in 
> general.
> I was directing the bank to send the check to the Dallas address, when I 
> realized that I could do more. So I made the check out for $250 instead of 
> the hundred I had pledged.
> I'm sure we'll need the extra money and if not, it will go to a worthy 
> cause.  Hopefully, others who can will also give a little more.
> (Not to make anyone feel guilty - just an idea)
> Thanks again for your work and taking charge.
> Tom Fansher
> 60 TR3A  -- coming back slowly
> 61 TR3A  -- awesome driver
> 62 TR4  -- will I ever have the time
> 73 Stag -- a lot of fun

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon Feb  4 11:18:28 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 10:18:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041218360.26597@isis.mit.edu>
References: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0332DE3B@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041218360.26597@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802041018j137cf707t2fc36f7a33656a1f@mail.gmail.com>

need one right now! would love to have an affordable kit.

On Feb 4, 2008 9:31 AM, Robert Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> A while back, maybe 6 years ago, I asked my machinist to look into
> alternate dampeners that'll fit the crank. It turns out that there is a
> Ford V6 application which uses the same size "snout" as TR6.
> Unfortunately, I cannot recall which Ford V6 it was, but the dimensions
> were extremely close if not exact.
>
> The purpose of my search at the time was twofold.
>
> First, at that time, there was NO source for new dampeners for TR6, so you
> had to go used or "rebuilt". The consensus at the time was that rebuilt
> meant something between "serviceable" and useless.
>
> Second, I was building a motor that would very likely see bursts to 7k
> rpm. So I wanted something to help tune out the known bad harmonics in the
> crank - I was looking for something like the ATI dampeners, but at a
> Summit Racing price. I actually contacted ATI at the time, and they quoted
> me a price for a custom dampener, but I had to get them crank snout
> dimensions to the .0001" of an inch. Yes, that 10-thousandths of an inch
> (which is easy to do with a micrometer. The cost was around $500, but then
> you had to figure out how to rin the belt to the alternator and water
> pump.
>
> Bottom line - this is do-able using off the shelf stuff and some minor
> customizations (like the bottom pulley and the water pump. The alternator
> part is easy, especially if you run a Delco alt. where you can get all
> sorts of different pulleys. Richard Good has done this on his car and I'd
> love to see him produce a kit for such a setup. But the cost will be high
> because the dampener itself is not cheap... figure $1k. That works out to
> about the cost of a reasonably worked over TR6 crankshaft (balanced,
> polish journals and some other stuff), BUT once you update the dampener
> you don't have to worry about replacing the crank every time you buzz the
> motor.
>
> Me, for one, would love to see a kit to do this. But I imagine a critical
> mass for such an endeavore would be a lot more than "one".
>
> :-)
>
> rml
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 12:00:42 2008
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:00:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0802041018j137cf707t2fc36f7a33656a1f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <876769.16274.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi Chuck, Vance;

I have been told by Rick Patton that a Cadillac Northstar balancer will fit the
TR6 crank - he's using it for his supercharged TR6 engine - it does mean
switching over to a serpentine belt however.



Raymond L. Hatfield
'65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance"
'73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" 
Little Rock, AR

Come visit the Michelotti TR Website:
http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

From k_nachman at comcast.net  Mon Feb  4 12:45:02 2008
From: k_nachman at comcast.net (Ken)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 14:45:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.452.1202142470.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <011701c86766$70a473d0$6400a8c0@ownerffw79eyic>

You can have both sidescreens and luggage with one of my storage bags. Take
a look at www.sidecurtain.com. They are designed by John Warfield (TRA) and
work great.

Ken Nachman
1957 TR3 sold
1963 Jaguar Mk2
2000 Jaguar XK8

Message: 9
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 19:09:49 EST
From: DLylis at aol.com
Subject: Re: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
To: Dave1massey at cs.com, triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <cf0.290cb777.34d7b1cd at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The problem with side screens, as I see it, is if you are on a trip, you  
have to choose between side screens and luggage.  Has anyone ever offered
side 
screens that collapse further than the conventional ones, and therefore
take 
up less space?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO

From coefront at shaw.ca  Mon Feb  4 13:31:49 2008
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 13:31:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Truck Rack
Message-ID: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDEEAOCPAA.coefront@shaw.ca>

For my TR8 I'm looking for a trunk rack. I'm asking for the MGB rack. So
would anyone know of a good used one out there? One that doesn't need
re-chroming as that's ridiculously expensive - I found out after locating
one here in Calgary. {That I had re-chromed and I've since sold}: as it was
too smaller a width for a TR8 trunk. Thanks. Mike @ coefront at shaw.ca

Mike Coe


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.19/1258 - Release Date: 04/02/2008
10:10 AM

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Mon Feb  4 13:22:15 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 13:22:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
In-Reply-To: <011701c86766$70a473d0$6400a8c0@ownerffw79eyic>
References: <011701c86766$70a473d0$6400a8c0@ownerffw79eyic>
Message-ID: <331D9E1F769D435BB37A29CEAB956DCB@GeoPC>

Or for the thrift-minded... the sunroof bag from a Porsche 944 makes a good 
sidecurtain bag (usually available on eBay, sometimes quite cheap).

I also sometimes use a sheet of thin plywood cut to fit the shape of the 
boot -- lay it on top of the side curtains so tool bags & luggage can go on 
top of the seldom used-curtains w/o damaging the delicate plastic windows.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ken" <k_nachman at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?


> You can have both sidescreens and luggage with one of my storage bags. 

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Mon Feb  4 14:01:21 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 14:01:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
In-Reply-To: <331D9E1F769D435BB37A29CEAB956DCB@GeoPC>
References: <011701c86766$70a473d0$6400a8c0@ownerffw79eyic>
	<331D9E1F769D435BB37A29CEAB956DCB@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <2BA712F4-3A4D-4D32-8E07-8B8F2B960824@cox.net>

Being cheap, I went to Wal-Mart & bought the thickest red towels I  
could get & made my own bags. And in a pinch can be used to clean the  
windows!

John



On  4 Feb, 2008, at 1:22 PM, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote:

> Or for the thrift-minded... the sunroof bag from a Porsche 944 makes  
> a good
> sidecurtain bag (usually available on eBay, sometimes quite cheap).
>
> I also sometimes use a sheet of thin plywood cut to fit the shape of  
> the
> boot -- lay it on top of the side curtains so tool bags & luggage  
> can go on
> top of the seldom used-curtains w/o damaging the delicate plastic  
> windows.
>
> Geo
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken" <k_nachman at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] AMCO side screens restoration ?
>
>
>> You can have both sidescreens and luggage with one of my storage  
>> bags.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From dwillner at ptd.net  Mon Feb  4 15:08:08 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 17:08:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
Message-ID: <002601c8677a$6d0d0520$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

I'm having my wire wheel media blasted and powder coated but can't seem to
find a perfect color match. I got dizzy Saturday looking at a hundred or so
swatches outside in the cold. The wheels have the original paint that looks
pretty good rubbed out, a warm metallic silver/grey with a hint of yellow (not
sure if this is weathered clear or not?). Has anyone had this done and have an
excellent match you're happy with that you could help me out with?  Appreciate
the help.

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Feb  4 16:12:00 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 18:12:00 EST
Subject: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
Message-ID: <bbf.2466a659.34d8f5c0@aol.com>

Moss sells a rattle can of a color that is claimed to be the correct for  
wheels.  I have used it and it looks real good.  I don't know if that  helps you 
with powder coat or not.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Mon Feb  4 16:54:03 2008
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 18:54:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
In-Reply-To: <002601c8677a$6d0d0520$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
References: <002601c8677a$6d0d0520$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <BBE8B3CB-4525-4A61-8648-E55423EA0269@blakedischer.com>

Fred Thomas may know better, but I believe you want ARGENT SILVER with  
a second powdercoat of CLEAR.

Cheers,
Blake Discher


On Feb 4, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Dave Willner wrote:

> I'm having my wire wheel media blasted and powder coated but can't  
> seem to
> find a perfect color match. I got dizzy Saturday looking at a  
> hundred or so
> swatches outside in the cold. The wheels have the original paint  
> that looks
> pretty good rubbed out, a warm metallic silver/grey with a hint of  
> yellow (not
> sure if this is weathered clear or not?). Has anyone had this done  
> and have an
> excellent match you're happy with that you could help me out with?   
> Appreciate
> the help.
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg, PA
> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> 70 MGB BRG
> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as bdischer at blakedischer.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Feb  4 18:38:12 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 20:38:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
References: <002601c8677a$6d0d0520$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<BBE8B3CB-4525-4A61-8648-E55423EA0269@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <001801c86797$c5843e40$aa1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Blake is 100% correct  "FT"
===============================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>
To: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number


> Fred Thomas may know better, but I believe you want ARGENT SILVER with
> a second powdercoat of CLEAR.
>
> Cheers,
> Blake Discher
>
>
> On Feb 4, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Dave Willner wrote:
>
>> I'm having my wire wheel media blasted and powder coated but can't
>> seem to
>> find a perfect color match. I got dizzy Saturday looking at a
>> hundred or so
>> swatches outside in the cold. The wheels have the original paint
>> that looks
>> pretty good rubbed out, a warm metallic silver/grey with a hint of
>> yellow (not
>> sure if this is weathered clear or not?). Has anyone had this done
>> and have an
>> excellent match you're happy with that you could help me out with?
>> Appreciate
>> the help.
>>
>> Dave Willner
>> Stroudsburg, PA
>> 59 TR3A Apple Green
>> 70 MGB BRG
>> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> You are subscribed as bdischer at blakedischer.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Feb  4 18:59:41 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 20:59:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
References: <002601c8677a$6d0d0520$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <003d01c8679a$c5d452b0$aa1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Eastwood will have the "Argent Silver" as well as the hi-gloss clear, 2lbs. 
silver, 1lb clear
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 5:08 PM
Subject: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number


> I'm having my wire wheel media blasted and powder coated but can't seem to
> find a perfect color match. I got dizzy Saturday looking at a hundred or 
> so
> swatches outside in the cold. The wheels have the original paint that 
> looks
> pretty good rubbed out, a warm metallic silver/grey with a hint of yellow 
> (not
> sure if this is weathered clear or not?). Has anyone had this done and 
> have an
> excellent match you're happy with that you could help me out with? 
> Appreciate
> the help.
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg, PA
> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> 70 MGB BRG
> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From dwillner at ptd.net  Tue Feb  5 06:27:49 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 08:27:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
References: <002601c8677a$6d0d0520$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<BBE8B3CB-4525-4A61-8648-E55423EA0269@blakedischer.com>
	<001801c86797$c5843e40$aa1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <001501c867fa$e7f558c0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

I do have both Argent and Detail silver from Eastwood in spray cans. The 
Detail Silver, says "Correct for wire wheels," but swatches look exactly the 
same, side by side. I'll follow up with Eastwoods for the Powder numbers.

Thanks to all for the advice and help, appreciate it.

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "fred thomas" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
To: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>; "Dave Willner" 
<dwillner at ptd.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number


> Blake is 100% correct  "FT"
> ===============================================================================================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>
> To: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
> Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 6:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
>
>
>> Fred Thomas may know better, but I believe you want ARGENT SILVER with
>> a second powdercoat of CLEAR.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Blake Discher
>>
>>
>> On Feb 4, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Dave Willner wrote:
>>
>>> I'm having my wire wheel media blasted and powder coated but can't
>>> seem to
>>> find a perfect color match. I got dizzy Saturday looking at a
>>> hundred or so
>>> swatches outside in the cold. The wheels have the original paint
>>> that looks
>>> pretty good rubbed out, a warm metallic silver/grey with a hint of
>>> yellow (not
>>> sure if this is weathered clear or not?). Has anyone had this done
>>> and have an
>>> excellent match you're happy with that you could help me out with?
>>> Appreciate
>>> the help.
>>>
>>> Dave Willner
>>> Stroudsburg, PA
>>> 59 TR3A Apple Green
>>> 70 MGB BRG
>>> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>>> http://www.vtr.org
>>>
>>>
>>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as bdischer at blakedischer.com
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From red_tr250 at hotmail.com  Tue Feb  5 08:00:59 2008
From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 10:00:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] WTB Vitesse
In-Reply-To: <380-2200814310472576@earthlink.net>
References: <380-2200814310472576@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BAY131-W266861DCE6FD48347F5C05D22C0@phx.gbl>

Buddy of mine, we'll call him Billy Ray is lookin' for a Convertible
Vitesse...said his wife likes them.  Thought I'd try my luck on this
list...worked for me for a TRiumph 2000!

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez
6-PACK Editor
_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail.-get your
"fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Feb  5 08:15:13 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 15:15:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wheel truing for steel wheels.
In-Reply-To: <bbf.2466a659.34d8f5c0@aol.com>
References: <bbf.2466a659.34d8f5c0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W21BBE90D02623E8D1BFFCDE52C0@phx.gbl>

Hi List,

I have 14" Ford wheels on my TR3A.  To my surprise recently I discovered they
are all running close to 0.050' run out.  I think this is what is causing the
shimmy in my front end.

I am preparing to cut the center sections loose and reset the off set on my
garage floor while curing the run out at the same time.  Has any one had any
experience with this?  Does anyone know of a reliable company that can correct
the run out for me?

The only wheel manufacturers I can find use a 0.035 tolerance for their wheels
and I hope to get a lot closer than that.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Tue Feb  5 09:09:26 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 11:09:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wheel truing for steel wheels.
References: <bbf.2466a659.34d8f5c0@aol.com>
	<BAY110-W21BBE90D02623E8D1BFFCDE52C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <06c201c86811$7c0f4f50$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Hi Tom,
Before starting on the wheel, try checking the run out on the hub. I had the 
exact same problem as you are describing both on my TR3 and TR6. The problem 
turned out to be the hub in both cases. Pull the wheel and run a straight 
edge along side the studs. If you get a rocking action you have a problem 
with the hubs. Then you can place a run out gauge to measure the actual run 
out. My 6 was out almost .070" on one wheel. After tightening down the lug 
nuts it distorted the wheel. A machine shop can true the face of the hub on 
a lathe. After making the correction I have NO shimmy or scuttle shake at 
all on either car.
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 10:15 AM
Subject: [TR] Wheel truing for steel wheels.


> Hi List,
>
> I have 14" Ford wheels on my TR3A.  To my surprise recently I discovered 
> they
> are all running close to 0.050' run out.  I think this is what is causing 
> the
> shimmy in my front end.
>
> I am preparing to cut the center sections loose and reset the off set on 
> my
> garage floor while curing the run out at the same time.  Has any one had 
> any
> experience with this?  Does anyone know of a reliable company that can 
> correct
> the run out for me?
>
> The only wheel manufacturers I can find use a 0.035 tolerance for their 
> wheels
> and I hope to get a lot closer than that.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb  5 09:45:54 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 11:45:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Diff Mounting Stud
Message-ID: <000501c86816$95b0f2b0$210110ac@bobspc>

Is there anything unique about the differential mounting stud (Moss #
320-355) that puts the cost at almost $20 each? It appears to be a steel rod
of a specific length that's been threaded on one end. It doesn't even look
like it's Grade 8 (that goldie color that the bolts and nuts have). I'm
debating the "build versus buy" repair for my front mounts. Any help would
be appreciated.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb  5 12:39:11 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 11:39:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wheel truing for steel wheels.
In-Reply-To: <06c201c86811$7c0f4f50$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <bbf.2466a659.34d8f5c0@aol.com><BAY110-W21BBE90D02623E8D1BFFCDE52C0@phx.gbl>
	<06c201c86811$7c0f4f50$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <010801c8682e$c84d69c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

Alex Manzo wrote : 

> Pull the wheel and 
> run a straight 
> edge along side the studs. If you get a rocking action you 
> have a problem 
> with the hubs.

I agree, but note that it's possible for the hubs to pass this test and
still have excess runout.  You're just checking that the face is flat, not
that it's perpendicular to the axis of rotation.

Tom White  wrote :
> > To my surprise recently I discovered 
> > they
> > are all running close to 0.050' run out.  I think this is 
> > what is causing the
> > shimmy in my front end.

Seems unlikely to me.  Note that the factory tolerance for the TR3 was .094"
(3/32") so your wheels are well within spec. 

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Feb  5 14:20:43 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 16:20:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] basic stuff?
Message-ID: <014a01c8683c$f7ecb1f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

If the wire from the coil to the points is taken off on my stock '60 TR3, will
the wires to the spark plugs have power?  I am trying to start it and you know
I am a amatuer.

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey

From tom628 at verizon.net  Tue Feb  5 14:43:28 2008
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2008 16:43:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] basic stuff?
References: <014a01c8683c$f7ecb1f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <001801c86840$257688a0$2f01a8c0@Toms>

No, Paul. The circuit to the primary side of the coil will be open, i.e. 
broken.

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 4:20 PM
Subject: [TR] basic stuff?


> If the wire from the coil to the points is taken off on my stock '60 TR3, 
> will
> the wires to the spark plugs have power?  I am trying to start it and you 
> know
> I am a amatuer.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Dorsey
> _______________________________________________

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb  5 15:05:09 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 14:05:09 -0800
Subject: [TR] basic stuff?
In-Reply-To: <014a01c8683c$f7ecb1f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <014a01c8683c$f7ecb1f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <012701c86843$2c176f50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> If the wire from the coil to the points is taken off on my 
> stock '60 TR3, will
> the wires to the spark plugs have power? 

Nope.  Removing that wire is a very effective way of disabling the spark,
recommended when doing compression checks or similar things that require the
engine be cranked with the plugs disconnected (or removed).  Otherwise the
misguided spark can do some mischief to the high voltage components (rotor,
cap, wires).  But the engine will definitely not run with the point wire
disconnected.

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Feb  5 16:28:27 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 18:28:27 EST
Subject: [TR] Wheel truing for steel wheels.
Message-ID: <c71.251a679a.34da4b1b@aol.com>

Check factory tolerances in the manual.  I think .035" is good.   I know wire 
wheels are .050".  It is a lot more than you would imagine. (At  least for 
me).  The other post about the hubs is real good advice.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Feb  5 18:08:25 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2008 01:08:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] OT metal springs
Message-ID: <020620080108.24819.47A90889000A0B0F000060F322165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Pathetic attempt at obligatory Triumph content:  

As I read my Triumph e-mails in my study, I sit in a massive oak swivel office chair that was old when I bought it from a lady in a nursing home 35 years ago, when I was a freshman in college.  I love this chair.  

The springs under it have broken.  They are 1/4 inch diameter wire or spring steel or whatever.  They are about 5.5 inches long, and the spring itself is about 1-5/8ths in diameter.  

I went to HD and bought a couple of stainless springs that fit, but were only about 40 pounds apiece, and they were much too weak to hold the back when I leaned backward.

Any ideas where to source these?  Honestly (English major here) I don't even know what to look for!

Thank you everyone for your patience here.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667)
New Hampshire

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Tue Feb  5 18:16:44 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 18:16:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] OT metal springs
In-Reply-To: <020620080108.24819.47A90889000A0B0F000060F322165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <020620080108.24819.47A90889000A0B0F000060F322165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A94C2CC5E8C040BDAA707AD234E1D5DF@GeoPC>

I just looked under the old oak swivel chair I sit in for this list and see 
the exact springs you describe.  Wow -- who'd think those springs can break? 
Of course they can.

Take a look at this page, about half way down, where they sell (no joke) 
'pre-owned' springs:

http://www.businessfurnitureshop.com/chair_partsII.htm

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
> As I read my Triumph e-mails in my study, I sit in a massive oak swivel 
> office chair that was old when I bought it from a lady in a nursing home 
> 35 years ago, when I was a freshman in college.  I love this chair.
>
> The springs under it have broken.  They are 1/4 inch diameter wire or 
> spring steel or whatever.  They are about 5.5 inches long, and the spring 
> itself is about 1-5/8ths in diameter... 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb  5 18:27:26 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 17:27:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT metal springs
In-Reply-To: <020620080108.24819.47A90889000A0B0F000060F322165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <020620080108.24819.47A90889000A0B0F000060F322165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <014301c8685f$6ea29630$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Any ideas where to source these?  Honestly (English major 
> here) I don't even know what to look for!

Terry,

If you direct your browser to
http://www.mcmaster.com/
then enter "springs" in the search field and click on the link for "About
compression springs", it will tell you more than you probably wanted to
know.

MMC P/N  96485K141 sounds like it might be close.

Randall

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Feb  5 18:34:29 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 18:34:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] OT metal springs
In-Reply-To: <020620080108.24819.47A90889000A0B0F000060F322165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <020620080108.24819.47A90889000A0B0F000060F322165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000001c86860$6c8788f0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

If you can find a good ole local furniture store that carries office
furniture they can probably come up with something from available
replacement parts.  They may be able to help or find a complete new unit to
go under the chair.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day!
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 6:08 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] OT metal springs

Pathetic attempt at obligatory Triumph content:  

As I read my Triumph e-mails in my study, I sit in a massive oak swivel
office chair that was old when I bought it from a lady in a nursing home 35
years ago, when I was a freshman in college.  I love this chair.  

The springs under it have broken.  They are 1/4 inch diameter wire or spring
steel or whatever.  They are about 5.5 inches long, and the spring itself is
about 1-5/8ths in diameter.  

I went to HD and bought a couple of stainless springs that fit, but were
only about 40 pounds apiece, and they were much too weak to hold the back
when I leaned backward.

Any ideas where to source these?  Honestly (English major here) I don't even
know what to look for!

Thank you everyone for your patience here.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667)
New Hampshire
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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8:42 PM

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Feb  5 18:43:47 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 20:43:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Presidential leanings?
Message-ID: <015d01c86861$b808a5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Imagine if a significant percentage of Triumph owners voted for a particular
Presidential candidate.

Who did you vote for today (or at least, for which party did you vote)?

I think that I proably 'run against the norm' in saying I voted for Hillary.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Feb  5 18:49:24 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 18:49:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] Presidential leanings?
In-Reply-To: <015d01c86861$b808a5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <015d01c86861$b808a5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <000501c86862$80162dc0$0202a8c0@newcomputer>

Nice try, but you aren't sucking me into this shouting match!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
dorpaul
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 6:44 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Presidential leanings?

Imagine if a significant percentage of Triumph owners voted for a particular
Presidential candidate.

Who did you vote for today (or at least, for which party did you vote)?

I think that I proably 'run against the norm' in saying I voted for Hillary.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey
60 TR3
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb  5 18:56:30 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 17:56:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] Presidential leanings?
In-Reply-To: <015d01c86861$b808a5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <015d01c86861$b808a5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <014901c86863$7de48b40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Who did you vote for today (or at least, for which party did 
> you vote)?

I agree with Joe ... not an appropriate topic here.

Randall

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Tue Feb  5 18:58:14 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 20:58:14 EST
Subject: [TR] Presidential leanings?
Message-ID: <d4e.2105912f.34da6e36@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/5/2008 8:43:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes:

Imagine  if a significant percentage of Triumph owners voted for a  particular
Presidential candidate.

Who did you vote for today (or at  least, for which party did you vote)?







oh, PLEASE keep this off the list
 
don't bother responding to me or defend bringing up this subject up here -  
I'm deleting anything with this subject line and if too many responses show up, 
 I'll unsubscribe.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Feb  5 19:13:19 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:13:19 EST
Subject: [TR] Presidential leanings?
Message-ID: <cc0.28fd3ec0.34da71bf@aol.com>

Good call.  Change the subject.  
What size tires do you have?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Feb  5 19:20:18 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 20:20:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] Presidential leanings?
References: <cc0.28fd3ec0.34da71bf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002d01c86866$d246fe40$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <McGaheyRx at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Presidential leanings?


> Good call.  Change the subject.  
> What size tires do you have?
> 

So, how about them Packers, hey!

Mike

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Feb  5 19:45:57 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:45:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] jumper cables? extra oil?
Message-ID: <019201c8686a$677b8730$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Gee.

Would trying to start my TR3 (which currently has no battery of it's own) by
using jumper cables from a family member's car battery provide sufficient
resistance to not crank it fast enough?  Also, I guess an extra quart of oil
is too much and would not be good if it cranks right?
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Tue Feb  5 19:48:05 2008
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 20:48:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] Presidential leanings?
In-Reply-To: <015d01c86861$b808a5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <015d01c86861$b808a5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W339D9F5772DB62D3E055B5E12D0@phx.gbl>

Any of them own a triumph?

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
See it moves!

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb  5 20:15:06 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 22:15:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Presidential leanings?
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W339D9F5772DB62D3E055B5E12D0@phx.gbl>
References: <015d01c86861$b808a5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<BAY123-W339D9F5772DB62D3E055B5E12D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000001c8686e$7a0db8b0$210110ac@bobspc>

Go Giants! ........oh yea...they WON!

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rich White
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 9:48 PM
To: dorpaul; list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Presidential leanings?

Any of them own a triumph?

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
See it moves!
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
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8:42 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
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8:42 PM

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Feb  5 21:14:06 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:14:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] jumper cables? extra oil?
In-Reply-To: <019201c8686a$677b8730$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <019201c8686a$677b8730$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <001101c86876$b7dea2f0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Jumper cables should turn it over it but loose the extra quart of oil first.


Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day!


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
dorpaul
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 7:46 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] jumper cables? extra oil?

Gee.

Would trying to start my TR3 (which currently has no battery of it's own) by
using jumper cables from a family member's car battery provide sufficient
resistance to not crank it fast enough?  Also, I guess an extra quart of oil
is too much and would not be good if it cranks right?
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
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8:42 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.20/1259 - Release Date: 2/4/2008
8:42 PM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb  5 22:51:28 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:51:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] jumper cables? extra oil?
In-Reply-To: <019201c8686a$677b8730$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080206055128.LXHW12521.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>

> Would trying to start my TR3 (which currently has no battery 
> of it's own) by using jumper cables from a family member's 
> car battery provide sufficient resistance to not crank it 
> fast enough?

Depends on the quality and size of the cables, IMO.  Good stout cables
should have no problem, but the lightweight "booster" cables sold in many
stores might not do it.  And don't even think about the gizmo that works
through the cigarette lighter !

>  Also, I guess an extra quart of oil is too much 
> and would not be good if it cranks right?

Not likely to hurt anything, IMO ... but why put an extra quart in to begin
with ?  It already holds half a case !

Randall

From douglashansen at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  6 03:07:50 2008
From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 02:07:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Pivot Brake Master Cylinder
Message-ID: <879838.38116.qm@web52203.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I have a dual line brake master cyl that came of a TR6 which happens to be a pivot kind.
the back of the resivor does not screw into the cyl but is pressed in.
anyone know where I can get a rebuild kit for this that includes a new seal and clip for the
pressed end?

it kinda looks like this
http://www.lrforum.com/articles/00026/
"NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE COMPLETELY THE RESERVOIR WHICH IS RETAINED BY AN INTERNAL FIXING AT THE REAR INLET BORE."

-too late...

thanks 
 
Douglas A. Hansen
www.1147cc.com


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From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Feb  6 04:59:40 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 06:59:40 EST
Subject: [TR] 3A Speedo
Message-ID: <bc1.279fe84a.34dafb2c@aol.com>

I am in the process of rebuilding my 3A Speedo.  What I noticed, and  didn't 
seem odd to me at the time is that the little number under the odometer  that 
indicates the number of turns per mile is 1216.  Randall pointed out  that to 
his knowledge that should be 11XX, like my TR6 speedos are 1120.   Can anyone 
shed some light on this?  
Could you TR guys out there take a look at yours and let me know what you  
see?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
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48)

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Feb  6 08:07:38 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 08:07:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3A Speedo
References: <bc1.279fe84a.34dafb2c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001301c868d2$03691ba0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

David,
The number will vary depending on what the rear gear ratio is.  I just
pulled a couple of speedos out of a bin and the GT6 one I am looking at has
980 while the Spit one I have from a Mk3 is 1248.

Joe

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 4:59 AM
Subject: [TR] 3A Speedo


> I am in the process of rebuilding my 3A Speedo.  What I noticed, and
didn't
> seem odd to me at the time is that the little number under the odometer
that
> indicates the number of turns per mile is 1216.  Randall pointed out  that
to
> his knowledge that should be 11XX, like my TR6 speedos are 1120.   Can
anyone
> shed some light on this?
> Could you TR guys out there take a look at yours and let me know what you
> see?
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
>
>
> **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
>
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0030000
00025
> 48)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Feb  6 08:06:42 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2008 15:06:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] Presidential leanings?
Message-ID: <020620081506.14596.47A9CD020001FFB50000390422007340769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

> Imagine if a significant percentage of Triumph owners voted for a particular
> Presidential candidate.

Imagine if a significant percentage of political junkies had their discussions on a politics mailing list.

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Wed Feb  6 08:18:02 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 08:18:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3A Speedo
In-Reply-To: <bc1.279fe84a.34dafb2c@aol.com>
References: <bc1.279fe84a.34dafb2c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <65A36547E2934BC1805F6268B6B85EF1@GeoPC>

Possibly a speedo for a 4.1 diff?

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 4:59 AM
Subject: [TR] 3A Speedo


>I am in the process of rebuilding my 3A Speedo.  What I noticed, and 
>didn't
> seem odd to me at the time is that the little number under the odometer 
> that
> indicates the number of turns per mile is 1216... 

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Wed Feb  6 08:33:32 2008
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:33:32 EST
Subject: [TR] "True" Wheels
Message-ID: <d21.20569643.34db2d4c@aol.com>

Tom,
The fact that all your wheels had .050" runout should have given you a clue 
that that's the mfg runout tolerance for steel wheels.   You are wasting your 
time trying to make them better, not that you can't but that it won't matter.   
If there is a shake, it is most likely wheel balance (MUST be done 
dynamically) or some front end geometry problem, like toe-in or worn parts.   Maybe one 
tyre is out of round.   Save yourself a lot of unnecessary work on the wheels 
and look elsewhere.
George 



**************
Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb  6 09:08:53 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 08:08:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] 3A Speedo
In-Reply-To: <65A36547E2934BC1805F6268B6B85EF1@GeoPC>
References: <bc1.279fe84a.34dafb2c@aol.com>
	<65A36547E2934BC1805F6268B6B85EF1@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <01dd01c868da$919501c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Possibly a speedo for a 4.1 diff?

Not for a TR3 anyway.  Working from the road speed data in the owner's
manual, the speedo calibration for a 4.1 diff should be either 1320 (Dunlop
tires) or 1356 (Michelin).   Of course those numbers are approximate as not
every calibration was available and they would have taken the nearest
available ... TS39781LO (a 58/59 TR3A originally equipped with a 4.1 diff)
had 1325.

I think David's speedo must have come from some other model, perhaps one
with 14" wheels.

Randall

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Wed Feb  6 09:18:54 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 11:18:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] no politics please, we're British... but how about those Eagles
Message-ID: <a11dceec0802060818s7a79be07xc7f0191729c2737e@mail.gmail.com>

*A team with drive*
The Eagles are planning a car show of sorts during the team's annual
carnival on Aug. 27. Though the lineup is not final, it's expected that
attendees will see Jevon Kearse's Rolls-Royce Phantom, Correll Buckhalter's
'67 Olds Cutlass, Sheldon Brown's 2007 Mercedes S550, 2006 Dodge Ram
MegaCab, and 2004 Suzuki 1000 GSXR motorcycle, and *Dhani Jones' Triumph TR3
*.

Source:  The Philadelphia Inquirer Inqlings column: Bye-bye, Sunny; so long,
Smooth, Aug 10, 2006. pg. 1

I think Jones plays for the Cincy Bengals, now.

-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
http://www.triumphowners.com/967

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb  6 11:19:54 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 13:19:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Differential  Mount Repair
Message-ID: <000001c868ec$e0f7dcd0$210110ac@bobspc>

On a TR6, do the re-enforcing brackets fit inside the existing differential
mounting bracket OR do they butt up to the sides of them? I guess the only
difference would be where the welding bead was laid. If the bracket butts to
the side of the mount, the bead would end up more of top and would that
interfere with the differential bushings? I don't think so but wanted to
check with the experts.

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


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8:57 PM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb  6 12:09:47 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 14:09:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Differential  Mount Repair
In-Reply-To: <407539.77700.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <000001c868ec$e0f7dcd0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<407539.77700.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001501c868f3$da60fcb0$210110ac@bobspc>

Todd,
That's interesting as I took the template off of VTR too and that had them
butting up against the sides of my mounts. My guess is that it all depends
on how "accurately" the mounts themselves are welded in place.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: Todd Bermudez [mailto:red_tr250 at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 1:32 PM
To: Bob Danielson; 'list Triumph'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Differential Mount Repair

Hi Bob,

Mine went inside.  I took the template off vtr & had some fabricated....I
would say you'd want them "just"
a bit smaller than the mount

Cheers,

Todd

--- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
wrote:

> On a TR6, do the re-enforcing brackets fit inside the existing 
> differential mounting bracket OR do they butt up to the sides of them? 
> I guess the only difference would be where the welding bead was laid.
> If the bracket butts to
> the side of the mount, the bead would end up more of top and would 
> that interfere with the differential bushings? I don't think so but 
> wanted to check with the experts.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> 



 
____________________________________________________________________________
________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 


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8:57 PM
 

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8:57 PM

From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com  Wed Feb  6 12:21:29 2008
From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 13:21:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Differential Mount Repair - reinforcing bracket fit
Message-ID: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D0F90@wpgclus1.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM>

Bob,

The reinforcing brackets I bought from TRF butt up against the sides of
the existing brackets.  These brackets were too big to go inside the
existing diff mounts.  One of the guys in our TR club is a professional
welder and he tacked them in place before applying the full bead.

I added these brackets while the body was on the frame.  They are almost
impossible to get at, but somehow, my welder was able to get a bead
around 90% of the perimeter of all four reinforcing plates.

I think I caught my bracket failure just in time.  A crack had formed
around the stud of the passenger side front bracket, but hadn't migrated
all the way across the bracket yet.  It would have  been very nasty if
it had.

By the way, TRF brackets were very expensive, but they fit perfectly
(NFI).

Cheers,
Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg

On Feb 6, Bob Danielson wrote:

	On a TR6, do the re-enforcing brackets fit inside the existing
differential
	mounting bracket OR do they butt up to the sides of them? I
guess the only
	difference would be where the welding bead was laid. If the
bracket butts to
	the side of the mount, the bead would end up more of top and
would that
	interfere with the differential bushings? I don't think so but
wanted to
	check with the experts.

From ray at raysmg.com  Wed Feb  6 12:28:11 2008
From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com)
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2008 12:28:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] jumper cables? extra oil?
Message-ID: <20080206122811.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.d3db43da24.wbe@email.secureserver.net>

   Hope it's a good strong battery.

   You've got an engine that hasn't been started in ??? ...say...a while.
   Cool  weather,  carbs  that  may  or  may  not be just right, possible
   condensation  in  the  tank  and  fuel lines, etc., etc. You've got an
   engine  that's  fairly  high  compression  and a starter that is not a
   model  of  efficiency.  I  know that after sitting for a while and not
   keeping  my  battery up like I ought to, I sometimes have to resort to
   the charger/starter.

   Ray
   Ray McCaleb
   ray at raysmg.com
   http://www.raysmg.com

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Thu Feb  7 08:21:42 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:21:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Big Box U-joints?
Message-ID: <A270D810-08D4-40D8-9C30-2D9A3487FE23@mindspring.com>

A friend of mine is wondering what the list's experience is with u- 
joints bought from local auto supply shops.  He owns a Sports Six,  
which if I understood correctly, uses the same u-joints as a variety  
of Triumphs including Spitfires.

Thanks,


Ashford Little
GTA Director
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Feb  7 08:45:42 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 08:45:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Big Box U-joints?
References: <A270D810-08D4-40D8-9C30-2D9A3487FE23@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <000901c869a0$7fbaede0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Having tried a number of U-Joints from a number of different Auto parts
stores, I have found a wide variety of results, mostly bad.

They vary from "they just don't fit right" to " they break easily",  Most of
the culprits were made in the far east and were very affordable (read,
"cheap")

I finaly broke down and bought some Dana Spicer U-Joints (sometimes hard to
find) and haven't had any failures since.  The Hardy Spicer ones (also not
easy to find) are also highly recommended.

In short, since these are critical parts in the drive train, it is much
better to spend a few extra bucks on quality parts and avoid the time it
takes to install replacements later on.

Just my humble opinion,
Joe Curry


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com>
To: "Triumph Email List" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 8:21 AM
Subject: [TR] Big Box U-joints?


> A friend of mine is wondering what the list's experience is with u-
> joints bought from local auto supply shops.  He owns a Sports Six,
> which if I understood correctly, uses the same u-joints as a variety
> of Triumphs including Spitfires.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Ashford Little
> GTA Director
> 6-Pack Membership Secretary
> '70 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Thu Feb  7 09:19:42 2008
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 11:19:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] U Joints
Message-ID: <BAY117-DAV192BBB3887C4A92859FD59F2E0@phx.gbl>

The last time I bought U-joints from TRF the box said Hardy Spicer, but the
u-joints were Japanese. They seemed good quality and installed w/o incident.

 

 
Bob Rochlin

 
'72 TR6

From spamiam at comcast.net  Thu Feb  7 10:25:09 2008
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2008 17:25:09 +0000
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <020720081725.21390.47AB3EF5000D86F20000538E2200762302030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net>

>Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 06:59:40 EST
>From: DLylis at aol.com
>Subject: [TR] 3A Speedo
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Message-ID: <bc1.279fe84a.34dafb2c at aol.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>I am in the process of rebuilding my 3A Speedo.  What I noticed, >and  didn't 
>seem odd to me at the time is that the little number under the >odometer  that 
>indicates the number of turns per mile is 1216.  Randall pointed >out  that to 
>his knowledge that should be 11XX, like my TR6 speedos are >1120.   Can anyone 
>shed some light on this?  
>Could you TR guys out there take a look at yours and let me >know what you  
>see?
> 
>David  Lylis
>69 TR6 CC26160L
>60 TR3A TS74461LO


I am not positive of the original calibration for a 3A, but I think it would be something like 1184 (maybe 1200?).  The 1216 calibration would give a +2.7% error.  You could probably notice this amount of error on your odometer, but probably not on your speedometer.

If you had an original 1184 calibration, then the "stock" overdrive of a 4.1 ratio would change the speedo calibration by the ratio of 4.1/3.7.  IOW, the same car fitted with a 1184 speedo would need a calibration of 1312. It would appear thar your speedo is not close enough to the 4.1 differential calibration.  (N.B.  An overdrive made to fit these cars will not change the speedo calibration because the speedo drive comes off after the OD and it is supposed to have the same number of starts on the scroll as the non-OD transmission)

These speedometer faces are reasonably unique to the TR line.  I have not seen these faces on other cars, but I certainly have not seen every one ever made!  Therefore, I would wager that the 1216 was a stock configuration for SOME early TR with SOME size of 15" tires.

My website has a monograph on this subject that might be helpful.
http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/speedo.html 

-Tony

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Feb  7 10:40:47 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 12:40:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hemmings Article
Message-ID: <000101c869b0$94736450$210110ac@bobspc>

Hemmings has an article on the money that the List raised to purchase the
Stag http://tinyurl.com/252ljq

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


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From akgraves at cox.net  Thu Feb  7 11:50:01 2008
From: akgraves at cox.net (akgraves at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 13:50:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Cleaning SU carb bodies
Message-ID: <20080207135001.IO4DX.5219.root@eastrmwml16.mgt.cox.net>

Dave,

>>  I remember back when I was a teenager in the
>>  late 60's there was a nasty carb cleaner that would have done the job but
I
>>  bet it has long since been banned. Can't think of the name of it anyway.

You may be thinking of a product named o?=Tyme Carburetor Cleanero?=.  It was
sold in a yellow & green can.  And youo?=re correct o?= it certainly could
clean carburetor parts.

Art Graves
1976 TR6

From acs25m at swbell.net  Thu Feb  7 11:56:01 2008
From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:56:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] starter relay location
Message-ID: <15977.48879.qm@web81603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi all, I own a TR250 that I need help with. I had to replace the sheet metal battery box due to a previous owner repairing rusted metal with fiberglass and a whole lot of body putty! I took a lot of pictures during the tear down with my digital camera but the files have somehow become corrupted and won't open. Could some one please email me a picture of the starter relay location and how its attached. I would appreciate it. You can send the pictures off list to  acs25m at swbell.net.
  Thank you
  John Maneke

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Thu Feb  7 15:43:48 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 17:43:48 EST
Subject: [TR] Hemmings Article
Message-ID: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/7/2008 12:41:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

Hemmings  has an article on the money that the List raised to purchase the
Stag  http://tinyurl.com/252ljq






Bob,
That's great and now we have a UK Spec Spitfire donation to be raffled  off 
in CA!  Now that's News! Are you kidding me! I'm telling all  now that one will 
get some action from yours truly. What was that about the  beauty of those 
twin SU's?  OH My this could get serious.
Cheers,
Darrell 



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
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48)

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Feb  7 16:40:02 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 18:40:02 EST
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <c1d.3072f890.34dcf0d2@aol.com>

Tony,
I understand that the OD has no bearing on this as the prop shaft maintains  
constant rotation, it is the motor that changes.  After I looked more  closely 
at the speedo (and others) I realized that my back case has two holes  for 
lights to fit into the speedo (not the high beam).  Other 3 speedos I  have seen 
do not have lights, rather they rely on central dash lighting (?) and  the 
light comes through openings in the case.  I am not sure what I have  here.  The 
other numbers on the speedo are SN 6319/06 and then 1216 just  under the 
odometer where the 11XX usually is.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Feb  7 17:10:49 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 00:10:49 -0000
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  Hemmings Article
References: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <01ed01c869e7$0fd68ce0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Darrell Floyd wrote:
> That's great and now we have a UK Spec Spitfire donation to be raffled  off
> in CA!  Now that's News! Are you kidding me! I'm telling all  now that one will
> get some action from yours truly. What was that about the  beauty of those
> twin SU's?  OH My this could get serious.

*Could* get serious????? I've been serious about this event for the better part of two years in 
terms of planning it :::)))

For the record Darrell, the original plan was to raffle the Spitfire in California but that event 
has been brought forward to May 2009 where the draw will take place on Standard-Triumph Marque Day 
in the UK. Just to stop any hares running, tickets for the Spitfire raffle are restricted only to 
the UK and Eire in view of the fact it's a late model car and we gotta have something for the guys 
who can't come. The whole of the USA and Canada will get the chance to buy raffle tickets for the 
Stag and their availability will be announced quite soon.

Jonmac 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb  7 17:15:44 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 18:15:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hemmings Article
References: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00d401c869e8$512d46b0$800101df@garage.local>

as usual, the news medai gets it wrong <grin>

it took about 48 hrs . . .

gee.  my chance to be famous and i don't even get a mention . . . ;-)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Hemmings Article


> In a message dated 2/7/2008 12:41:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:
>
> Hemmings  has an article on the money that the List raised to purchase the
> Stag  http://tinyurl.com/252ljq

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Feb  7 17:23:52 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 00:23:52 -0000
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009
References: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <020401c869e8$e2bf5be0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Listers

We're seventeen months out from the start of this crazy drive I'm planning on doing - but the event 
actually GETS UNDERWAY this coming weekend.

As some may be aware, next Sunday is Triumph Spares Day in the UK and I know some listers are on 
their way to the UK as I write. Glenn Merrell is one of them and Paul Higley from Red River Triumph 
is another. So, to celebrate the start of the 2008 season, the UK spec Spitfire will be on the 
Triumph Sports Six Stand at Stoneleigh, sporting appropriate Triumph Trans-AmeriCa signage (and 
polish) to hopefully make as many people as possible aware of the launch of raffle ticket sales for 
this stupendously restored car.

I went down to my garage this evening to make sure it was hale and hearty and decided to start her 
in readiness for her trip on the trailer. Wriggled inside with difficulty, inserted key, pulled out 
choke and twisted to start. Er unk, er unk er unk.

I'll be fitting a new battery tomorrow - and possibly a new alternator over the weekend. Maybe some 
benevolent Stoneleigh trader may care to donate one? :)

Jonmac

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Feb  7 18:18:02 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 20:18:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hemmings Article
In-Reply-To: <00d401c869e8$512d46b0$800101df@garage.local>
References: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com>
	<00d401c869e8$512d46b0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <200802072018.03009.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday 07 February 2008 07:15 pm, Oliver wrote:
> as usual, the news medai gets it wrong <grin>
>
> it took about 48 hrs . . .
>
> gee.  my chance to be famous and i don't even get a mention . . . ;-)
>
Oliver,

Your efforts will not be lost on the people this effort will help.

But you and everyone that pledged $ can look themselves in the mirror and 
smile.

As someone once said "You did good"!

And that next ride in the TR of choice will feel that much better.

Bob

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Thu Feb  7 17:39:50 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 19:39:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tow Bar Question
Message-ID: <6835efff676b2a820b65c940e734696e@comcast.net>

Do any listers have information on fitting a tow bar to a TR4?

I want to tow a light arrangement of row boat and ultralight trailer.

The boat and trailer are here - its the penultimate picture as you 
scroll down: http://www.littlerivermarine.com/accessories.php

I really want to look forward to a Spring where I can take my TR and 
boat (which I'm about to buy) to a local water, early in the morning, 
row some, fish some, and generally decompress,

Ideally, I'd like a trailer attachment I can remove from the car when 
not needed to provide an 'as stock' appearance.

Obviously, building off from the frame rails is the route to success 
here, but if anyone has 'Been There, Done That', I'd appreciate your 
insights.

Cheers,

Brian

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Feb  7 19:40:23 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 21:40:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] jumper cables? extra oil?
In-Reply-To: <019201c8686a$677b8730$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <019201c8686a$677b8730$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <200802072140.24406.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Paul,

When I was working on the 4 project. I hooked up a battery to both a solenoid 
and a 12v switch for the coil to test start the engine.

Now at that time the body was off.

I hooked up a 1 qt can for fuel supply.

Engine turned over just great with a 5 year old battery. (the old one from the 
3).

Engine started after the 3rd try and ran real nice with good oil pressure and 
oil flow to the rockers. (I had the valve cover off).

If you are close to completing your project, I would get a new battery, not 
use the "car" and jumpers. Either hook it up as normal or just to the 
solenoid and a switched 12v to the coil.

I can send you a photo if you need.

Bob

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb  7 20:07:03 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 21:07:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  Hemmings Article
References: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com>
	<00d401c869e8$512d46b0$800101df@garage.local>
	<47ABC675.4030702@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c869ff$aefca8f0$800101df@garage.local>

http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2008/01/latest-route-01.
JPG


  In the Hemmings article Bob Danielson sent, the map of the drive route
throughout
  the US and Canada was about as big as a postage stamp... Is there a larger
version
  available somewhere?

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Fri Feb  8 03:51:40 2008
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 05:51:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tow Bar Question
References: <6835efff676b2a820b65c940e734696e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001001c86a40$98c57df0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us>

I've built several custom hitches over the years.  Mostly for motorcycles, 
but a few for cars and trucks as well.

Making it rigid is the key.  If the hitch ball doesn't move, things work 
much better than when the hitch ball does move.  The mount itself usually 
isn't the issue, it's the flexing of the hitch itself most of the time.

In your case, since you're towing a very light trailer assembly, and you 
want removability, I'd be most inclined to go with a bumper hitch.  The 
bumper is more than strong enough for your application, and is pretty rigid.

I'd fabricate a socket to fit onto the face of the bumper, rubber lined, and 
a ratchet strap on each side to lock it down.  You could also use hooks and 
camlocks that grasp the backside edge of the bumper blade.  This would be 
even better, but would cost more.  To get a good fit onto the face of the 
bumper, don't fear wood.  As in something like oak.  You can shape it well 
to fit very securely.  Remember, this is only going to see small up and down 
loads, the straps or locks are what is going to see the primary towing 
loads.

If you are determined to go frame mounting, don't use anything but  bolts to 
mount to the frame.  You need a tight joint, and thumb nuts and such will 
not provide this, and have the disconcerting habit of falling off.  I 
personally like square tube for custom hitches.  Makes triangulating and 
such much easier.  Your basic shape would be a horseshoe.  Reinforce those 
corners to reduce the flex.  The longer the legs of the horseshoe are, the 
more up and down flexing you'll have.  You can greatly control that by going 
with stouter tubing and making the frame bolts as widely spaced as possible.




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Jones" <banc8004 at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 7:39 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tow Bar Question


> Do any listers have information on fitting a tow bar to a TR4?
>
> I want to tow a light arrangement of row boat and ultralight trailer.
>
> The boat and trailer are here - its the penultimate picture as you
> scroll down: http://www.littlerivermarine.com/accessories.php
>
> I really want to look forward to a Spring where I can take my TR and
> boat (which I'm about to buy) to a local water, early in the morning,
> row some, fish some, and generally decompress,
>
> Ideally, I'd like a trailer attachment I can remove from the car when
> not needed to provide an 'as stock' appearance.
>
> Obviously, building off from the frame rails is the route to success
> here, but if anyone has 'Been There, Done That', I'd appreciate your
> insights.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Brian
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as foxtrapper at aceweb.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Feb  8 04:19:56 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 06:19:56 EST
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tow Bar Question
Message-ID: <c2c.2a1d8b16.34dd94dc@aol.com>

Check with your state DMV.  Bumper hitches are not legal in some  states.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Feb  8 04:31:24 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 06:31:24 EST
Subject: [TR] jumper cables? extra oil?
Message-ID: <cdd.22b3f631.34dd978c@aol.com>

Paul,
If you are going to start the motor on the chassis without the body, it is  
highly recommended that you connect an oil pressure gauge and a temp  gauge.  
Use the temp gauge from the dash and go to the parts store and buy  an oil 
pressure gauge ($15) or use the one from the dash as well.
Do not attempt to thread the fittings from the store gauge on to the motor  
fittings as the thread is different.  Use a short piece of fuel line and a  
couple of stainless hose clamps.  It will work fine.  
Look at your wiring diagram.  All you need to do is to screw your  regulator 
and solenoid to a piece of board and run a few wires and you can  connect in 
your generator, and use a remote starter switch.  Put a  toggle in the wire to 
the distributor so you can shut it off.  
Crank it first with the toggle off so you build oil pressure before  
starting.  Even if it has been started before you will get a very dry start  if it 
hasn't been started in a long time.
 
(Make sure it is in neutral!)
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From spamiam at comcast.net  Fri Feb  8 06:41:03 2008
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008 13:41:03 +0000
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <020820081341.13585.47AC5BEF000AB64B000035112207021053030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net>

David,

Correct, the speedo drive is after all the internals of the trnasmission and OD, and is the same as the prop shaft.

I am not positive about all the earlier TRs, but the TR4 line has 2 receptacles for lightbulbs.  One is the Highbeam indicator and goes to a little colored plastic rhinestone on the dial face.  The other receptacle is for the illumination.  I had thought that the earlier cars had at least ONE receptacle (for the illumination).  As far as I know, the all the gauges have a bulb for illumination.

-Tony

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: DLylis at aol.com 

Tony,
I understand that the OD has no bearing on this as the prop shaft maintains constant rotation, it is the motor that changes.  After I looked more closely at the speedo (and others) I realized that my back case has two holes for lights to fit into the speedo (not the high beam).  Other 3 speedos I have seen do not have lights, rather they rely on central dash lighting (?) and the light comes through openings in the case.  I am not sure what I have here.  The other numbers on the speedo are SN 6319/06 and then 1216 just under the odometer where the 11XX usually is.

David Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO






Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Feb  8 06:43:16 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 13:43:16 -0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  Hemmings Article
References: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com><00d401c869e8$512d46b0$800101df@garage.local><47ABC675.4030702@maine.rr.com>
	<000f01c869ff$aefca8f0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <025201c86a58$8f8280e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Look at the website!

Jonmac

> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/

> JPG
> 
> 
>  In the Hemmings article Bob Danielson sent, the map of the drive route
> throughout
>  the US and Canada was about as big as a postage stamp... Is there a larger
> version
>  available somewhere?
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Feb  8 07:45:10 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 08:45:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] Tony Rolt
Message-ID: <002001c86a61$34feb9a0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

Here is link to the Daily Telegraph's obituary for Tony Rolt, a war hero, a
Triumph racer (among many other cars) and a great engineer.  The sport owes a
lot to guys of his ilk.

http://tinyurl.com/2rcnwb

Michael Marr
1960 TR3A
2000 Jag XK8
Plainfield, IL

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Fri Feb  8 12:36:15 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 12:36:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] jumper cables? extra oil?
In-Reply-To: <cdd.22b3f631.34dd978c@aol.com>
References: <cdd.22b3f631.34dd978c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B8615C0899E74ED1A449EA9F67B75741@GeoPC>

My recollection is that on a TR3 the solenoid must be grounded (e.g. 
fastened to the body) to operate.

For what Paul was looking at doing he could probably omit the generator & 
control box/regulator and just run off the battery (if it is strong enough 
to start the engine it is likely strong enough to run it for several hours).

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
>...All you need to do is to screw your  regulator
> and solenoid to a piece of board and run a few wires... 

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri Feb  8 13:09:46 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 15:09:46 EST
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  Hemmings Article
Message-ID: <d0c.26f09887.34de110a@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/7/2008 7:10:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

Just to  stop any hares running, tickets for the Spitfire raffle are 
restricted only to  
the UK and Eire in view of the fact it's a late model car and we gotta  have 
something for the guys 
who can't come.



AH Sucks John,
I always wanted one of the "Rest of the World" Spitfires.  Come to  think 
about it I want a R.O.W. TR6 too.  Throw in a UK Spec TR7 with the  beauty of the 
Twin SU fitment and absence of all the smog  equipment. It just ain't fair 
that we have the so called Federal  Versions of all the cool TR's. However,  I'm 
good with the Stag in CA,  that's fine. Was there a UK Stag Version?
Cheers,
Darrell 



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  8 13:25:20 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 14:25:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] hello
Message-ID: <014201c86a91$5b73d860$800101df@garage.local>

Roy Congrove - please contact me off list

thanks

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Fri Feb  8 13:55:28 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 15:55:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] jumper cables? extra oil?
References: <cdd.22b3f631.34dd978c@aol.com>
	<B8615C0899E74ED1A449EA9F67B75741@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <02e801c86a94$f03d4370$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Yes, Thank you.
I think I'm hooking it up like I did several years ago, in fact, i've now 
disconnected the wiring harness and am using 'bare-bones' wiring for my pos. 
ground vehicle.  That is jumper cable neg. to the solenoid (mounted), jumper 
cable pos. to the grounded engine.  Solenoid's smallwire (which is also 
battery neg.) runs to the correct side of the coil(I intend to install a 
toggle switch on this wire to cut engine on/off).  Opposite side of coil 
correctly goes to the points.

Also, bad news, I found water in the oil.  Concluded it wasn't 
antifreeze/water mix, but, rather water that had drained in tarp, getting 
down the unprotected SU's.  I completed drained oil, installed 5W-30 an then 
turned it over with the starter. Drained it again, installed 10-W/30.

And I hope to have it running in a couple of hours.  I'll run it for 30 
minutes at 2000 rpm's to get the water out!  Wish me luck. Thanks,

Paul Dorsey, 60 TR3 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Feb  8 16:03:07 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 23:03:07 -0000
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  Hemmings Article
References: <d0c.26f09887.34de110a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <028201c86aa6$c4d7c6d0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Darrell Floyd wrote:

AH Sucks John, I always wanted one of the "Rest of the World" Spitfires.  Come
to think about it I want a R.O.W. TR6 too.

You mean the car with petrol injection, of course. The faster noisier version
:) Sure, still plenty around though for a good one, best budget for spending
upwards of US$16k.

Throw in a UK Spec TR7 with the beauty of the Twin SU fitment and absence of
all the smog equipment. It just ain't fair that we have the so called Federal
Versions of all the cool TR's. However,  I'm good with the Stag in CA, that's
fine.

Was there a UK Stag Version?

Was there a UK Stag version, the man says;):):)  Sure was Darrell. Considering
the car was originally designed for the US market but failed to 'take off' (no
need to go there) we carried on building 'em here and built 25,000 odd. The
R.O.W. version had a bit more umph than the Federal car with around 145BHp on
tap. Good ones here are now commanding prices upwards of US$20k.

Cheers, Jonmac

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Feb  8 17:27:31 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 19:27:31 EST
Subject: [TR] Hello
Message-ID: <c18.2afa6d85.34de4d73@aol.com>

Angalina Jolie, please contact me off list...
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From 6parts at charter.net  Fri Feb  8 20:06:50 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 22:06:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 counter shaft
Message-ID: <00d901c86ac8$d0970220$26db0c47@alan>

I am going to have TR6 gearbox rebuilt, and I am trying to decide if TRF's
counter shaft is

$19.00 better than the one offered by Moss.

The book says they are made up for them and of a harder quality than others.

Anyone have any experience with these?

thanks

Al

From douglashansen at yahoo.com  Fri Feb  8 20:26:27 2008
From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 19:26:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] 63 spitfire FS
Message-ID: <129828.98314.qm@web52203.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Ive got an early Spit with serial number 9306 that I dont think Ill ever get to...
Its basically complete but is missing a dash and keys
Ive got a BMH certificate for it and the numbers all match.
its black with red wheels and interior
it does need floors and rockers.
 
email me off list if interested.
thanks
 
Douglas A. Hansen
www.1147cc.com


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

From jimhearn1 at comcast.net  Fri Feb  8 21:53:10 2008
From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 20:53:10 -0800
Subject: [TR] ohm range on the TR6 gas gauge
Message-ID: <000401c86ad7$ab793760$b1191718@computer>

Does anyone know the ohm range on the TR6 gas gauge?

Thanks, Jim in Sacramento

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb  8 23:55:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 22:55:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 counter shaft
Message-ID: <27044589.1202540118654.JavaMail.root@web28>

> The book says they are made up for them and of a harder quality than others.
> 
> Anyone have any experience with these?

Really hard to do a head-to-head comparison on these; since the real question is what it looks like after 20,000 miles.  I bought mine from TRF, but have no way of knowing if it lasts better than one from Moss or not.

However, if Charles & the folks @ TRF felt it was necessary to commission their own shaft instead of buying from the same supplier Moss gets them from; I think it's safe to say that there really was a problem with the cheaper shaft.  I know I wouldn't want to find out the hard way, even if someone handed me $20 to do so.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Feb  9 06:04:49 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008 08:04:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] ohm range on the TR6 gas gauge
In-Reply-To: <000401c86ad7$ab793760$b1191718@computer>
Message-ID: <47AD5EA1.4125.E6603CF@localhost>

On 8 Feb 2008 at 20:53, jim hearn wrote:

> Does anyone know the ohm range on the TR6 gas gauge?

What does it matter as long as you have enough gas to get ohm?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sat Feb  9 06:37:55 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 07:37:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] ohm range on the TR6 gas gauge
References: <47AD5EA1.4125.E6603CF@localhost>
Message-ID: <000e01c86b20$fa867360$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

Jim, I know you can do better than that.  That was a very ammeter attempt at 
a pun.  I think you need to think about it Faraday or so before coming up 
with another.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 7:04 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] ohm range on the TR6 gas gauge


> On 8 Feb 2008 at 20:53, jim hearn wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know the ohm range on the TR6 gas gauge?
>
> What does it matter as long as you have enough gas to get ohm?

From 6parts at charter.net  Sat Feb  9 07:03:07 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 09:03:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 counter shaft
References: <27044589.1202540118654.JavaMail.root@web28>
Message-ID: <003701c86b24$7f9d2960$c607a942@alan>

I would be the last one to open up a box to compare; so I guess it was just 
a dumb question.
When you have been out of work as long as I have, you just start to question 
all the nickels and dimes.

thanks

AL

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 1:55 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 counter shaft


>
>> The book says they are made up for them and of a harder quality than 
>> others.
>>
>> Anyone have any experience with these?
>
> Really hard to do a head-to-head comparison on these; since the real 
> question is what it looks like after 20,000 miles.  I bought mine from 
> TRF, but have no way of knowing if it lasts better than one from Moss or 
> not.
>
> However, if Charles & the folks @ TRF felt it was necessary to commission 
> their own shaft instead of buying from the same supplier Moss gets them 
> from; I think it's safe to say that there really was a problem with the 
> cheaper shaft.  I know I wouldn't want to find out the hard way, even if 
> someone handed me $20 to do so.
>
> Randall

From steven at newellboys.com  Sat Feb  9 07:26:08 2008
From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell)
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008 07:26:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hello
In-Reply-To: <c18.2afa6d85.34de4d73@aol.com>
References: <c18.2afa6d85.34de4d73@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47ADB800.9010202@newellboys.com>

BearTranserv at aol.com wrote:

>Angalina Jolie, please contact me off list...
> 
>Robert B.  Houston
>Texan in New Mexico
>

Robert, this is Angelina, why don't you return my calls?

Angelina Jolie
'62 TR4 short bubble, of course

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Feb  9 07:32:58 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 09:32:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Diff Mount Repair
Message-ID: <000001c86b28$acbe0fa0$210110ac@bobspc>

The other day I asked if the TRF repair brackets went inside or alongside
the diff mounts. The answer was a resounding 50/50% that they're a perfect
fit inside/alongside!  For some of you they fit perfectly inside the mount
and for others it was a perfect fit alongside the mount. That made some
sense when I found that each of my mounts were a little different dependent
on how it was originally welded in place. I used the gusset template from
the VTR site and ended up custom grinding each one to fit a specific side of
each bracket. Probably overkill but what the heck. I had Tim's Portable
Welding come to the house and the results are here
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffMounts.htm

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.21/1267 - Release Date: 2/8/2008
8:12 PM

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Sat Feb  9 09:46:07 2008
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 11:46:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Searching for TR6 seat part
Message-ID: <380-220082691646762@earthlink.net>

Hello,

If anyone can help me locate the following part, to fit the 1970-1972 TR6 driver's seat, I'd be extremely grateful.

LH Seat seat-back support wire, lower wire, outer. TR6 1970-72 (the seat with fixed headrests)

Part #816077, TRF green catalog page 442, GH41

Photos: http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj14/TR250Tom/IMGP3147.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj14/TR250Tom/IMGP3148.jpg

As you might know, the 70-72 TR6 seats have a total of 16 bent wires supporting the side bolsters, and no 2 are alike (though each wire on each seat has a mirror-image partner on the other seat). One of mine is broken, and broke again after I had it welded. 

I have calls into Triumph Rescue and Triumphs Only. If anyone has a complete seat for sale, I'd be glad to buy that, as long as the wires can be confirmed OK.

Plan C is a visit to an upholsterer, as some of you have previously suggested.

Thanks for your help,

Tom 
CC55483L


http://www.triumphowners.com/735

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Sat Feb  9 14:07:48 2008
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008 16:07:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Searching for TR6 seat part
In-Reply-To: <380-220082691646762@earthlink.net>
References: <380-220082691646762@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <47AE1624.5010109@earthlink.net>

The other option is to take the seat to a very good auto upholstery shop 
and have them do it.  They can also make the rubber supports for the 
bottom and backs of the seats as well.

Joe
72 TR-6


Tomislav Marincic wrote:
> Hello,
>
> If anyone can help me locate the following part, to fit the 1970-1972 TR6 driver's seat, I'd be extremely grateful.
>
> LH Seat seat-back support wire, lower wire, outer. TR6 1970-72 (the seat with fixed headrests)
>
> Part #816077, TRF green catalog page 442, GH41
>
> Photos: http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj14/TR250Tom/IMGP3147.jpg
> http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj14/TR250Tom/IMGP3148.jpg
>
> As you might know, the 70-72 TR6 seats have a total of 16 bent wires supporting the side bolsters, and no 2 are alike (though each wire on each seat has a mirror-image partner on the other seat). One of mine is broken, and broke again after I had it welded. 
>
> I have calls into Triumph Rescue and Triumphs Only. If anyone has a complete seat for sale, I'd be glad to buy that, as long as the wires can be confirmed OK.
>
> Plan C is a visit to an upholsterer, as some of you have previously suggested.
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Tom 
> CC55483L
>
>
> http://www.triumphowners.com/735
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From curtfisher at insightbb.com  Sat Feb  9 16:24:10 2008
From: curtfisher at insightbb.com (Curt Fisher)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 17:24:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] Alternative mounts for TR3A ADDCO front sway bar.
Message-ID: <001001c86b72$e05cc8c0$1eb2884a@DH40XPB1>

I'm installing an ADDCO front anti-roll bar to my 59TR3a. The mounts that hold
the straight part of the bar in front are SUPPOSED to bolt to the bumper
brackets. The mount hardware needs to be longitudinal to the car, but the
bumper brackes angle out so that only the bottom hole will line up with the
bumper brackets.

I guess I can make an additional little angle iron tab for the top hole, or
else weld the bottom part of the hardware to the bumper brackets, but that's
not very elegant.

Is someone making an alternative mount, (Joe Alexander?) or does someone have
a trick solution to this problem?

Thanks,
Curt
59TR3A
2008 MINI Cooper S
Spec Racer Ford #11

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sat Feb  9 16:56:36 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 18:56:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Alternative mounts for TR3A ADDCO front sway bar.
In-Reply-To: <001001c86b72$e05cc8c0$1eb2884a@DH40XPB1>
References: <001001c86b72$e05cc8c0$1eb2884a@DH40XPB1>
Message-ID: <BAY109-W385EC6675E7ECC8F55F07AA5280@phx.gbl>

> I'm installing an ADDCO front anti-roll bar to my 59TR3a. The mounts that
hold> the straight part of the bar in front are SUPPOSED to bolt to the
bumper> brackets. The mount hardware needs to be longitudinal to the car, but
the> bumper brackes angle out so that only the bottom hole will line up with
the> bumper brackets.> > I guess I can make an additional little angle iron
tab for the top hole, or> else weld the bottom part of the hardware to the
bumper brackets, but that's> not very elegant.> > Is someone making an
alternative mount, (Joe Alexander?) or does someone have> a trick solution to
this problem?> > Thanks,> Curt> 59TR3A> 2008 MINI Cooper S> Spec Racer Ford
#11

I made adaptors from steel plate that bolted to the bumper brackets and
allowed the sway bar mounts to be on the straight part of the sway bar.

Although I am saying it myself, they are quite elegant.

John

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Feb  9 17:31:04 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 19:31:04 EST
Subject: [TR] Alternative mounts for TR3A ADDCO front sway bar.
Message-ID: <c94.25f27672.34df9fc8@aol.com>

I did the same and they are obscure with the car assembled but allow  for the 
Bar Brackets to be straight and firmly attached.  I think I have a  diagram 
for an alternate method that was posted here a while ago.  It was  much more 
involved and so I went with the plates.  Works great; looks  good.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From acs25m at swbell.net  Sat Feb  9 21:39:36 2008
From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 20:39:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] egr port
Message-ID: <176468.66390.qm@web81607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi all,
       I have a question that I hope someone can give me an answer to. I had to replace the head on my TR250 with a later model head. It has an  egr port in it that I need to plug. Does any one out there know what size plug will fit. It looks to be a fine thread. Somewhere between 1/2" and 3/4" or possibly a metric? Any idea where I can find one?
  Thanks in advance,
  John Maneke
  68TR250
  cd3416

From 6parts at charter.net  Sun Feb 10 07:23:56 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 09:23:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] egr port
References: <176468.66390.qm@web81607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001401c86bf0$925bc530$f6c37744@alan>

EGR hole is 3/4 fine thread, you also need  the latter intake manifold.

Al

www.triumphowners.com/624


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <acs25m at swbell.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 11:39 PM
Subject: [TR] egr port


> Hi all,
>       I have a question that I hope someone can give me an answer to. I 
> had to replace the head on my TR250 with a later model head. It has an 
> egr port in it that I need to plug. Does any one out there know what size 
> plug will fit. It looks to be a fine thread. Somewhere between 1/2" and 
> 3/4" or possibly a metric? Any idea where I can find one?
>  Thanks in advance,
>  John Maneke
>  68TR250
>  cd3416
> _______________________________________________

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Sun Feb 10 10:49:24 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 12:49:24 EST
Subject: [TR] Hello
Message-ID: <bc2.20636ca9.34e09324@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/9/2008 7:26:24 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
steven at newellboys.com writes:

Robert,  this is Angelina, why don't you return my  calls?






Angie my love, 
 
I just wanted you to know that after much contemplation, even though the  
baby is probably mine like you said, I am very happily married and think you  
should stay with Pitt.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven  of the shop manual.



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From acs25m at swbell.net  Sun Feb 10 11:25:35 2008
From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 10:25:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] re; egr port
Message-ID: <197173.72608.qm@web81608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thank you listers,
     It had never dawned on me to use anything other than a plug. A couple of people recommended a fine thread bolt and that is exactly what I plan on using. I had been unable to find the right size plug in a fine thread here locally but a bolt is another thing all together and won't be a problem.
  Thank you all again,
  John Maneke

From kentech0822 at verizon.net  Sun Feb 10 13:47:57 2008
From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 15:47:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Alternative mounts for TR3A ADDCO front sway bar.
In-Reply-To: <001001c86b72$e05cc8c0$1eb2884a@DH40XPB1>
References: <001001c86b72$e05cc8c0$1eb2884a@DH40XPB1>
Message-ID: <000b01c86c26$379e2fd0$7c01a8c0@KENTECHHP>

Curt,

Joe A said he was looking at this a while back but haven't heard from him
about this project.

When I installed my Addco last year, I had the same quandry. Someone told me
that the bushings are meant to fit all near the apex of the bend of the bar,
here's a link to mine
http://mysite.verizon.net/kentech0822/triumph/addco.jpg Once you get the
ends loosely connected to the lower arms, try sliding the mounts near the
end as I did. It fit and it works.

PeterK

-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Fisher [mailto:curtfisher at insightbb.com] 
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 6:24 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Alternative mounts for TR3A ADDCO front sway bar.

I'm installing an ADDCO front anti-roll bar to my 59TR3a. The mounts that
hold the straight part of the bar in front are SUPPOSED to bolt to the
bumper brackets. The mount hardware needs to be longitudinal to the car, but
the bumper brackes angle out so that only the bottom hole will line up with
the bumper brackets.

I guess I can make an additional little angle iron tab for the top hole, or
else weld the bottom part of the hardware to the bumper brackets, but that's
not very elegant.

Is someone making an alternative mount, (Joe Alexander?) or does someone
have a trick solution to this problem?

Thanks,
Curt
59TR3A
2008 MINI Cooper S
Spec Racer Ford #11

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sun Feb 10 15:13:32 2008
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 17:13:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hello
References: <bc2.20636ca9.34e09324@aol.com>
Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2D70A@exchange.terra-incognita.net>

Er, is this way off topic, or just another Triumph of imagination over any
conceivable reality?

Mark
1972 TR6


________________________________

From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net on behalf of
BearTranserv at aol.com
Sent: Sun 10/02/2008 12:49 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Hello



In a message dated 2/9/2008 7:26:24 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
steven at newellboys.com writes:

Robert,  this is Angelina, why don't you return my  calls?






Angie my love,

I just wanted you to know that after much contemplation, even though the
baby is probably mine like you said, I am very happily married and think you
should stay with Pitt.

Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed,
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected
and
adjusted as described in chapter seven  of the shop manual.

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sun Feb 10 15:41:03 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 16:41:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hello
References: <bc2.20636ca9.34e09324@aol.com>
	<641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2D70A@exchange.terra-incognita.net>
Message-ID: <008b01c86c36$053c2280$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

I believe Robert is lobbying to change the name of the fabled "Sabrina" 
engine to the "Angelina".

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To: <BearTranserv at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Hello


> Er, is this way off topic, or just another Triumph of imagination over any
> conceivable reality?
>
> Mark
> 1972 TR6

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Feb 10 15:55:39 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 14:55:39 -0800
Subject: [TR] Radio Question
Message-ID: <p06240800c3d530b9466a@[98.224.7.170]>

Hi folks,
	On an original 1970 TR6, Standard  Triumph AM radio ... 
positive  or negative ground??

There are  three ( 3)  wires  coming  out, two brown together  like 
household power cords, and  one (1)  black  ...  I am thinking  the 
two are speaker  wires, and the black power  using  a  case  ground.

Any help appreciated
-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 10 16:22:05 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 17:22:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] Stag Acquisition and Repair Fund
Message-ID: <000801c86c3b$c0e73fb0$800101df@garage.local>

We are up to $5,550 in pledges and have received over $1,000 in donations.

Great job, all of you!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sun Feb 10 16:39:53 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 16:39:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Radio Question
In-Reply-To: <p06240800c3d530b9466a@[98.224.7.170]>
References: <p06240800c3d530b9466a@[98.224.7.170]>
Message-ID: <0AB099FFD7C04CC3B3AC29BC117C2409@GeoPC>

Bill --

I assume you know a 70 TR6 would have left Coventry with negative ground but 
how do you know that the radio you have is for that car/year?

Since these were (I think) dealer fitment I am not sure there would be any 
indication what it was for.

I suppose the relevant question is what is the polarity of the radio you 
have.  FWIW -- many of the radios installed back in the day had the ability 
to be used for either polarity by changing some switch on the radio.

In the case of the 'original' radio in my TR4 (positive ground) this was 
managed by removing a round plug (maybe a half inch across) and reinserting 
it in a different orientation.

You might look for such a fitting on your unit.  Failing that, you might 
look for any indication of polarity on the body of the radio.  If none, then 
you probably want to quote whatever marks, numbers etc you do find.

In my case the car had had the battery installed backwards yet miraculously 
the radio worked fine when the positive ground polarity was restored.  I 
wouldn't count on such luck though so you do want to very sure before you 
connect it.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill & AnnaBelle" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 3:55 PM
Subject: [TR] Radio Question


> Hi folks,
> On an original 1970 TR6, Standard  Triumph AM radio ...
> positive  or negative ground?? 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Feb 10 19:32:03 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 21:32:03 EST
Subject: [TR] Hello
Message-ID: <cc6.267d03cd.34e10da3@cs.com>

Some people have a rather loose grasp on reality, Mark.

Dave

In a message dated 2/10/2008 4:16:15 PM Central Standard Time, 
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: 
> Er, is this way off topic, or just another Triumph of imagination over any
> conceivable reality?
> 
> Mark
> 1972 TR6
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> 
> From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net on behalf of
> BearTranserv at aol.com
> Sent: Sun 10/02/2008 12:49 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Hello
> 
> 
> 
> In a message dated 2/9/2008 7:26:24 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
> steven at newellboys.com writes:
> 
> Robert,  this is Angelina, why don't you return my  calls?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Angie my love,
> 
> I just wanted you to know that after much contemplation, even though the
> baby is probably mine like you said, I am very happily married and think you
> should stay with Pitt.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Feb 10 19:47:05 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 21:47:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hello
In-Reply-To: <cc6.267d03cd.34e10da3@cs.com>
Message-ID: <47AF70D9.12087.F3B18F@localhost>

On 10 Feb 2008 at 21:32, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: 
> > Er, is this way off topic, or just another Triumph of imagination
> > over any conceivable reality?

> Some people have a rather loose grasp on reality, Mark.

But conceiving seems not to be a problem.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Feb 10 19:51:08 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 21:51:08 EST
Subject: [TR] Hello
Message-ID: <d32.23ba888b.34e1121c@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:47:46 PM Central Standard Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> >mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: 
> >>Er, is this way off topic, or just another Triumph of imagination
> >>over any conceivable reality?
> 
> >Some people have a rather loose grasp on reality, Mark.
> 
> But conceiving seems not to be a problem.
> 
Surely you gest!

From curtfisher at insightbb.com  Sun Feb 10 20:19:28 2008
From: curtfisher at insightbb.com (Curt Fisher)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 21:19:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] Alternative mounts for TR3A ADDCO front sway bar.
Message-ID: <003b01c86c5c$e9d376c0$1eb2884a@DH40XPB1>

Thanks to everyone for the responces on the bar mounting. I recieved some
photos of the bars mounted with the addco hardware and it looks better than I
though it would. If it doesn't work out, I recieved ideas for two methods of
adding bracket mounts. It's too cold in the garage to try any ideas this
weekend!

Thanks to all who responded,
Curt Fisher
59TR3A
Spec Racer Ford
2008 MINI Cooper S
1991 Ford 350 Econoline ambulance

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Feb 10 21:55:13 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 23:55:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] fuel adjustment needed somewhere?
Message-ID: <002d01c86c6a$49e819a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Hi,
Today I ran my TR3's engine for the first time in about two years (during
which I installed the body).  I ran it for 20 minutes in order to 'dry' out
the cooling system- which had over a quart of water in it!  I had changed the
oil and had 50-70 psi of oil pressure  and am hopeful that no long term damage
results from me leaving my car under a tarp outside (possibly in the rain)?

The question I have is about my SU h6 carbs.  During this 20 minute period, I
could not get the engine speed to slow down.  Unfortunatly, it wanted to run
3000 rpm or more.  Although the oil pressure was good, the water temp. gauge
did not work, which is why I did not let it run longer.  I continually
monitored the top radiator hose 'by touch' hoping that I could detect if the
motor started running hot.  Fortunately, with my new aluminum Wizard Radiator,
it did not seem to run hot (to the touch).

Now, back to the carbs:  which were the cause of the 3000+rpm's.  I had
rebuilt them myself, having manuals and a limited knowledge of carbs, but I
did have the correct rebuild kits!  All acelerator linkage worked well and
'raced' the motor when throttled.  Raising the carb's pistons didn't have ANY
effect on the speed of the engine, nor on the amount of suction usually felt
on the front of the carbs(air filter removed).  I'm kinda guessing that the
carb's might be sucking in air other than thru the air filters, but due to the
racing of the motor, they also had to be getting extra gas from somewhere.
Maybe unadjusted jet-adjusting-nuts?  Or are these nuts only used to determine
choke/jet heighth?

Please help, as I plan to try and straighten out this problem tomorrow.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Mon Feb 11 02:37:48 2008
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 22:37:48 +1300
Subject: [TR] TR4 Rear springs
Message-ID: <001001c86c91$c3c31960$6e01a8c0@athlon>

Does anyone have a pixcture with the springs dimensions?

Jim

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb 11 04:56:06 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 05:56:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] Amount actually collected so far: $1,650
Message-ID: <000801c86ca5$16c08ae0$8215a8c0@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb 11 16:16:03 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 18:16:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
Message-ID: <000001c86d04$141d2410$210110ac@bobspc>

On a TR6 the inner trailing arm pivot bolt is installed with the head toward
the center of the car. The idea being that if the nut should work loose, the
bolt can't work it's way out because the head will hit the frame. Logical...
but a royal pain in the butt for installation and removal of the arms. Has
anyone ever seen, heard or experienced the nuts coming off of the pivot
bolts with the subsequent trailing arm disaster? So what have most of you
done when you've re-installed the arms? 

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.2/1270 - Release Date: 2/10/2008
12:21 PM

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Feb 11 17:27:42 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 19:27:42 EST
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
Message-ID: <d06.26c702a0.34e241fe@aol.com>

Bob,
I just turned the bolt around and used a new nyloc.  The way I look at  it if 
one comes out but not the other you are likely to find yourself in the  same 
body of water without a means of propulsion.  
I don't know that that was the reason they did it that way.  I think  it was 
more just to piss you off.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Feb 11 18:22:49 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 20:22:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] key series
Message-ID: <200802112022.49751.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

Need to order some key blanks but not sure what to order.

I am looking at both my TR3A and TR4 keys and they look the same.

The TR3A key is a Cole National and the number is U2

The TR4 key is a Taylor lock Co number UN3 on the back and 62DL on the front.



Both keys can have the same 2 groves on the front with one grove on the back.

Now believe it or not the 3A key works in the 4 and the 4 key works in the 3! 
Eventhough they have a slight difference.

I am guessing that the ignition internals are a bit worn.

Anyway what key (s) is (are) they

FA, FS or FP, I am guessing FP?

If it makes a difference, the 3A is a 58 and the 4 is a 63.

Thanks,

Bob

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Mon Feb 11 17:49:52 2008
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 19:49:52 EST
Subject: [TR] Is Vincent is now IN the Office?
Message-ID: <c84.229fd8a3.34e24730@aol.com>

Hey, I'm a little worried that Vincent hasn't checked in.  Think he got 
delayed on his trip?

Harold

In a message dated 2/2/08 4:02:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
vkwong at celestica.com writes:

<< Subj:     [TR] Vincent is out of the Office
 Date:  2/2/08 4:02:48 PM Eastern Standard Time
 From:  vkwong at celestica.com (Vincent Kwong)
 To:    triumphs at autox.team.net
 
 I will be out of the office starting  02/02/2008 and will not return until
 02/11/2008.
 
 
 For urgent business issues, please contact my manager Peter Barber at
 x6231.
 
 Vincent Kwong >>
<BR><BR><BR>**************<BR>The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at 
the Grammy Awards. Go to AOL Music.<BR>      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)</HTML>

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Mon Feb 11 17:52:24 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 17:52:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] key series
In-Reply-To: <200802112022.49751.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200802112022.49751.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <908F163912954CE9B7D6D5A5848D7213@GeoPC>

Both my 59 TR3A and my 64 TR4 have FP ignition keys.

Often you can get original keys recovered from old vehicles or NOS supplies. 
There are a couple of sources for these.  Cutting blanks is okay for spares 
but if these are to be used regularly the original keys are nice.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Labuz" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: "Triumph Email List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 6:22 PM
Subject: [TR] key series


> Hello,
>
> Need to order some key blanks but not sure what to order.
>
> I am looking at both my TR3A and TR4 keys and they look the same.
>
> The TR3A key is a Cole National and the number is U2
>
> The TR4 key is a Taylor lock Co number UN3 on the back and 62DL on the 
> front.
>
>
>
> Both keys can have the same 2 groves on the front with one grove on the 
> back.
>
> Now believe it or not the 3A key works in the 4 and the 4 key works in the 
> 3!
> Eventhough they have a slight difference.
>
> I am guessing that the ignition internals are a bit worn.
>
> Anyway what key (s) is (are) they
>
> FA, FS or FP, I am guessing FP?
>
> If it makes a difference, the 3A is a 58 and the 4 is a 63.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as ahwahnee at cybertrails.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Feb 11 18:21:04 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 18:21:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tranny Tunnel
References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <00a001c86d15$8a9090d0$54f30818@rolofson>

I still have the old pressed cardboard/fiber..or whatever it is... tunnel
cover and just used some pretty dense weathering stripping from the home
supply store as a sealing strip.   I put bubble wrap over the tunnel and
floors and haven't had a problem for the last 5-6 years.  If you want to get
fancier than that you could try some double stick foam stripping about 1/4
inch thick...you'll have to google that one.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Danielson
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; '6pack'
  Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 8:26 PM
  Subject: [TR] Tranny Tunnel


  OK....who makes the best fitting after market transmission Cover/Tunnel and
  sealing strip? I'm talking about the Poly ones. I've read good and bad
about
  this product but my "fiber" one is not worthy of going back in the car. I
  think it has to do with that one bolt I missed when trying to remove it
  .........drat. I found one on eBay for $80 but he doesn't include a fitting
  kit because "he hasn't found one that meets his standards".

  Thanks
  Bob

  Bob Danielson
  1975 TR6 CF38503U
  Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org



  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1206 - Release Date: 1/1/2008
  12:09 PM



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-


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  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


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  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  http://www.team.net/archive

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Feb 11 18:22:02 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 18:22:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Is Vincent is now IN the Office?
In-Reply-To: <c84.229fd8a3.34e24730@aol.com>
References: <c84.229fd8a3.34e24730@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002601c86d15$ad14c720$6401a8c0@sniffer>

You should check with Peter Barber at xt. 6231

B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
ZinkZ10C at aol.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 5:50 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Is Vincent is now IN the Office?

Hey, I'm a little worried that Vincent hasn't checked in.  Think he got
delayed on his trip?

Harold

In a message dated 2/2/08 4:02:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
vkwong at celestica.com writes:

<< Subj:     [TR] Vincent is out of the Office
 Date:  2/2/08 4:02:48 PM Eastern Standard Time
 From:  vkwong at celestica.com (Vincent Kwong)
 To:    triumphs at autox.team.net
 
 I will be out of the office starting  02/02/2008 and will not return until
02/11/2008.
 
 
 For urgent business issues, please contact my manager Peter Barber at
x6231.
 
 Vincent Kwong >>
<BR><BR><BR>**************<BR>The year's hottest artists on the red carpet
at 
the Grammy Awards. Go to AOL Music.<BR>      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)</HTML>
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From steven at newellboys.com  Tue Feb 12 08:59:25 2008
From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 08:59:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] key series
In-Reply-To: <908F163912954CE9B7D6D5A5848D7213@GeoPC>
References: <200802112022.49751.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<908F163912954CE9B7D6D5A5848D7213@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <47B1C25D.6060609@newellboys.com>

Bob wrote:

"Need to order some key blanks [for TR3A and TR4] but not sure what to 
order."

A friend of mine, Sven, found that his TR4 ignition switch was worn 
enough that about any small key, or the right screwdriver, would start 
his car. This turned out to be lucky, since he misplaced his keys at the 
lacrosse field one evening. A parent had a bunch of keys on a ring, and 
a Master padlock key got the car going.

I want to emphasize that Sven has a new ignition switch, Lojack, a rabid 
racoon that lives in the car, and several disabling switches hidden 
around the TR4 so there's no need to stop by my, er, his driveway for a 
quick joyride.

Steven Newell
Paris, France
'62 TR4 x 2 etc.

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Tue Feb 12 12:40:50 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 11:40:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] key series
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD63F3B@kb1.mossmotors.com>

>Need to order some key blanks but not sure what to order.

>I am looking at both my TR3A and TR4 keys and they look the same.

>The TR3A key is a Cole National and the number is U2

>The TR4 key is a Taylor lock Co number UN3 on the back and 62DL on the
front.


Are you sure it is U2 not UN2?

UN2 = FA series
UN3 = FP series

Moss has both: UN2 = 163-535; UN3 = 163-550


Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 Daily Driver

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Tue Feb 12 14:45:29 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 14:45:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] key series
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD63F3B@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD63F3B@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <C4DE8B0BB02845E79A2350E0E669F9CB@GeoPC>

The key that came with my TR3A many years ago was a Cole National U2.  I do 
not doubt that the 'UN' series is correct, but U2 seems to also work and may 
have been a popular substitute back when you could go into Woolworths and 
get a key cut for your Triumph.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Arakelian, Peter" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 12:40 PM
Subject: [TR] key series


>>The TR3A key is a Cole National and the number is U2
>
>
>
> Are you sure it is U2 not UN2?
>
> UN2 = FA series
> UN3 = FP series
>
> Moss has both: UN2 = 163-535; UN3 = 163-550 

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Tue Feb 12 15:17:45 2008
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 17:17:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] key series
In-Reply-To: <200802112022.49751.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200802112022.49751.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <47B21B09.1030308@frontiernet.net>

Wow, finally a question in my area of expertise. Both of the keys you
have are for the FP series. Most TR3As would have originally been
equiped with these keys. Earlier TR3 and TR2 would have had FA series keys.

This is a link to my catalog page showing the typical DP series
replacement key blank and it's equivalent:

http://www.key-men.com/shopping/show_key.php?catnum=62DP

For Triumph cars, the keys always had a round head, but the there are
rectangular and delta shaped heads used on other British cars. Most of
the time, the locks had the key code stamped on the face of the lock.

Originally, when you wanted to buy a replacement key, you'd go to the
parts shop (motor factor?) and give them the key code and they would
have cut keys right on a rack. Blank keys were not generally available.
Now, you generally buy a blank key and have it cut to the code.

If you need replacements, I can supply and cut them. If you're looking
for original keys, I have a small supply of original cut keys in varying
conditions. If you supply me your codes, I can look though them and let
you know if I have your code.

George Richardson



Bob Labuz wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Need to order some key blanks but not sure what to order.
>
> I am looking at both my TR3A and TR4 keys and they look the same.
>
> The TR3A key is a Cole National and the number is U2
>
> The TR4 key is a Taylor lock Co number UN3 on the back and 62DL on the front.
>
>
>
> Both keys can have the same 2 groves on the front with one grove on the back.
>
> Now believe it or not the 3A key works in the 4 and the 4 key works in the 3! 
> Eventhough they have a slight difference.
>
> I am guessing that the ignition internals are a bit worn.
>
> Anyway what key (s) is (are) they
>
> FA, FS or FP, I am guessing FP?
>
> If it makes a difference, the 3A is a 58 and the 4 is a 63.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as gprtech at frontiernet.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Feb 12 15:52:09 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 17:52:09 EST
Subject: [TR] [6pack] audio power question
Message-ID: <bd5.25a4567e.34e37d19@aol.com>

I have a 69 and I "upgraded" the alternator from the 15 ACR to the 17 ACR  
(maybe a year or two later)  I installed a Pioneer CD-IB100 II deck with an  
internal 50w (?) amp.  I did not upgrade the alternator because of the  deck but 
because my old one looked crappy and this was available for the right  price.  
I put Kenwood 5 1/2" speakers in the rear behind the seats and 4 1/2" in  the 
kidney pads and there is plenty of sound.  I have  friend who put  in an amp 
and it took up too much space for my taste.
If you would like I can send pics of how I put in the rear speakers.   Let me 
know. 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Feb 12 17:04:14 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 19:04:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] key series
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD63F3B@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD63F3B@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <200802121904.14590.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 12 February 2008 02:40 pm, Arakelian, Peter wrote:
> >Need to order some key blanks but not sure what to order.
> >
> >I am looking at both my TR3A and TR4 keys and they look the same.
> >
> >The TR3A key is a Cole National and the number is U2
> >
> >The TR4 key is a Taylor lock Co number UN3 on the back and 62DL on the
>
> front.
>
>
> Are you sure it is U2 not UN2?
>
> UN2 = FA series
> UN3 = FP series
>
> Moss has both: UN2 = 163-535; UN3 = 163-550
>
>
> Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 Daily Driver
Peter,

It has been confirmed by many on the list that my Cole U2 and Taylor 62DL are 
both for the FP series key.

George Richardson confirmed this with a link to his web site as well as the FP 
on both ignition switches!

http://www.key-men.com/shopping/show_key.php?catnum=62DP

Also George Hahn confirmed that his TR3A key is also a Cole U2.

Thanks to all who answered my query. Learned another fact about Triumphs 
today!

But the funny thing is I bet you 40 years ago I knew the answer!

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 12 19:33:59 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 18:33:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] Radio Question
In-Reply-To: <p06240800c3d530b9466a@[98.224.7.170]>
References: <p06240800c3d530b9466a@[98.224.7.170]>
Message-ID: <086901c86de8$e3346080$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

Bill, likely I missed it (digging through a whole pile of backlogged mail
after being out of town for a few days), but I didn't see a reply to this. 

> 	On an original 1970 TR6, Standard  Triumph AM radio ... 
> positive  or negative ground??

TR6 were all negative ground.  Some earlier radios had switches to select
positive or negative ground, but I think by 1970 the switch would likely no
longer be present.  TRs went negative ground in 1965, and as I recall were
one of the last cars to do so.

> There are  three ( 3)  wires  coming  out, two brown together  like 
> household power cords, and  one (1)  black  ...  I am thinking  the 
> two are speaker  wires, and the black power  using  a  case  ground.

Seems reasonable to me.  What happens if you put an ohmmeter between the
black wire and the case ?  Does it change when you turn the power switch on
?

Are there any numbers or even a manufacturer name on the case ?  I have some
old car radio schematics at home and might be able to look it up for you if
I knew some more details.

Randall

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Feb 13 09:43:53 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 08:43:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] Goodwood Tour
Message-ID: <p06240800c3d8cdf7a827@[98.224.7.170]>

Hi folks,
	There was an ad in the VTR magazine (I think), for the 
Goodwood Revival Tour, we are seriously considering it.  It is very 
expensive, and the last eMail from the organizer is asking that we 
remit the funds now ... I am a little concerned as the tour is not 
till September.
	If anyone has had experience dealing with England Specials it 
would give us a "warm/fuzzy" to know that we are not being conned.

Thanks for your input ...

-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Feb 13 09:43:53 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 08:43:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] Goodwood Tour
Message-ID: <p06240800c3d8cdf7a827@[98.224.7.170]>

Hi folks,
	There was an ad in the VTR magazine (I think), for the 
Goodwood Revival Tour, we are seriously considering it.  It is very 
expensive, and the last eMail from the organizer is asking that we 
remit the funds now ... I am a little concerned as the tour is not 
till September.
	If anyone has had experience dealing with England Specials it 
would give us a "warm/fuzzy" to know that we are not being conned.

Thanks for your input ...

-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From january at chemeketa.edu  Wed Feb 13 10:55:20 2008
From: january at chemeketa.edu (January Williams)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 09:55:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] key series
Message-ID: <4C7800EB52CF054BB0B4FF50968C1B66983317@cccmail2.chemeketa.network>

I got my keys years ago from Pete Groh who still has a website

http://britishcarkeys.com/

You may be able to get "original" keys cut to your locks if you can find
the numbers on the locks
Moss has blanks also

my 4A has all FS keys
I had some duplicates made at a local locksmith that had aftermarket
blanks

January
66 TR4A CTC74217 LO

============================================


Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 20:22:49 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Subject: [TR] key series
Hello,

Need to order some key blanks but not sure what to order.
I am looking at both my TR3A and TR4 keys and they look the same.
The TR3A key is a Cole National and the number is U2
The TR4 key is a Taylor lock Co number UN3 on the back and 62DL on the
front.



Both keys can have the same 2 groves on the front with one grove on the
back.
Now believe it or not the 3A key works in the 4 and the 4 key works in
the 3! Eventhough they have a slight difference.
I am guessing that the ignition internals are a bit worn.
Anyway what key (s) is (are) they
FA, FS or FP, I am guessing FP?
If it makes a difference, the 3A is a 58 and the 4 is a 63.

Thanks,

Bob

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Feb 13 10:58:00 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 11:58:00 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] key series
Message-ID: <12631525.2559841202925481086.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>

I used Pete as well for a spare set of keys for my 1972 TR6, he did a great job.  One did not work, I sent it back with a zerox of the existing key, and he redid it and sent back, no charge.

Thanks,

Craig H. Nicholls

From: January Williams <january at chemeketa.edu>
Date: 2008/02/13 Wed AM 11:55:20 CST
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] key series

I got my keys years ago from Pete Groh who still has a website

http://britishcarkeys.com/

You may be able to get "original" keys cut to your locks if you can find
the numbers on the locks
Moss has blanks also

my 4A has all FS keys
I had some duplicates made at a local locksmith that had aftermarket
blanks

January
66 TR4A CTC74217 LO

============================================


Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 20:22:49 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Subject: [TR] key series
Hello,

Need to order some key blanks but not sure what to order.
I am looking at both my TR3A and TR4 keys and they look the same.
The TR3A key is a Cole National and the number is U2
The TR4 key is a Taylor lock Co number UN3 on the back and 62DL on the
front.



Both keys can have the same 2 groves on the front with one grove on the
back.
Now believe it or not the 3A key works in the 4 and the 4 key works in
the 3! Eventhough they have a slight difference.
I am guessing that the ignition internals are a bit worn.
Anyway what key (s) is (are) they
FA, FS or FP, I am guessing FP?
If it makes a difference, the 3A is a 58 and the 4 is a 63.

Thanks,

Bob
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com  Wed Feb 13 11:32:55 2008
From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw at peoplepc.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 13:32:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hub End Float
Message-ID: <002701c86e6e$d98ca430$0101a8c0@w8u6d1>

To The List:

Since having my rear hubs rebuilt I've put about 800 miles on my car. I
noticed the other day that the left rear hub has excessive end float -
probably around .012. I believe the end float should be in the range of .002
to .005. Is it safe to drive the car as is?  Any suggestions apreciated.
Thanks.

From team.net at daveola.com  Wed Feb 13 12:07:50 2008
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 11:07:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
Message-ID: <E1JPN5O-0005e3-VK@dave.getdave.com>

As mentioned before, my front apron is damaged.

http://DavePics.com/Album/Trouble/2007-10-22.Triumph-Accident/

The options I've found so far are:

1) Buy new front apron for a whopping $2250

2) Buy a fiberglass front apron and deal with possible fit issues
   with an apron that can't really be molded (is this a concern?)

3) Pay my body shop guy $1200 to repair my current apron
   (I'm skeptical about this - in particular the space above the
    grill is crimped a bit, I'm not sure how they could ever get
    it to look right again):

http://DavePics.com/Album/Trouble/2007-10-22.Triumph-Accident/tn/cimg0827.jpg.html

4) Drive around my sad Triumph until I can finally find a used
   apron on ebay.  The only ones I've seen so far are full of
   rust.  I'd love to find one that doesn't have more than surface
   rust and light body work, but I don't know how often these show up.

Any suggestions?  I'd rather avoid #1, and I'm tending between
#2 and #3 because I don't think another apron is going to show
up on ebay.  (Although Murphy's law will ensure that one shows
up just after I fix my car  :)

Do people have thoughts or experience with the fiberglass or
with trying to unbend a damaged front end, and how much it
should cost?

And if anyone on the list knows where I can get a front apron,
please do tell!


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
---------------- Computers don't kill people, people do -------------------

From mathews at uga.edu  Wed Feb 13 12:25:39 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 14:25:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
In-Reply-To: <E1JPN5O-0005e3-VK@dave.getdave.com>
References: <E1JPN5O-0005e3-VK@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <20080213192549.71B99187650@autox.team.net>

I hate to see these old cards get dinged...feel for ya.

I've seen worse that have been repaired. If you have not had a lot of 
experience with your body shop, and I hope you have not, ask them to 
give you some references for work of a similar nature and go look at 
the results and talk to the owners. If you don't like what you see 
and hear, shop around.  I'd be pretty specific in detailing the work 
that you want done. I've seen some amazing repairs.

My 2 cents.

Doug

At 02:07 PM 2/13/2008, you wrote:

>3) Pay my body shop guy $1200 to repair my current apron
>    (I'm skeptical about this - in particular the space above the
>     grill is crimped a bit, I'm not sure how they could ever get
>     it to look right again):

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 13 12:54:49 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 11:54:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
In-Reply-To: <E1JPN5O-0005e3-VK@dave.getdave.com>
References: <E1JPN5O-0005e3-VK@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <091c01c86e7a$4aef6e90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> 1) Buy new front apron for a whopping $2250

Don't forget, you'll still need to pay a body man to fit and paint that.

> 3) Pay my body shop guy $1200 to repair my current apron
>    (I'm skeptical about this - in particular the space above the
>     grill is crimped a bit, I'm not sure how they could ever get
>     it to look right again):

That's the way I would go ... damage doesn't look all that bad to my
non-expert eye.  That crimp can be worked back very nearly right with hammer
and dolly, then the final profile set with a few thin coats of plastic
filler.

Haven't tried the 'glass front apron yet, but I paid a body shop to install
glass rear fenders some years ago.  They never did fit right, and I don't
think it's coincidence that the paint on them cracked after just a few
years.  Lots of interesting little problems too, like the captive nuts were
metric so they couldn't use the special bolts that go in the rain gutter.

Randall

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Wed Feb 13 14:56:51 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 16:56:51 EST
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
Message-ID: <c2a.1c7a4913.34e4c1a3@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/13/2008 12:16:44 PM Mountain Standard Time,  
team.net at daveola.com writes:

3) Pay  my body shop guy $1200 to repair my current apron
(I'm  skeptical about this - in particular the space above the
grill is crimped a bit, I'm not sure how they could ever get
it to look right again):





Maybe I'm living in the past, but if he's any good with a hammer and dolly  
he should be able to make it look new for $1200.00.  Even if he's $100 an  
hour, that's a day and a half to work on it.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Feb 13 14:58:27 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 16:58:27 EST
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
Message-ID: <c54.2813b47c.34e4c203@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/13/2008 11:16:44 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
team.net at daveola.com writes:

Do  people have thoughts or experience with the fiberglass or
with trying to  unbend a damaged front end, and how much it
should  cost?



If it were my car, I would strip the apron from the car and remove  
everything from it.
 
I would buy and have a brand new grill with me. making sure Ihave whatever  
fasteners are necessary to attach it.
I would take that to my bodyman,possibly loosely held on the car with a  
couple of bolts. I don't know of anything he can do which would keep it from  
fitting the car though, 
 
 
I have had my car since 1964 and it has been worse than yours. Once it  
drover over the curb and into the front of a Safeway store, but which had a 3  foot 
high stone wall.
 
That's what I would do.
 
Mike Moore  



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Wed Feb 13 15:01:02 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 17:01:02 EST
Subject: [TR] TR4 Ignition Switch
Message-ID: <d45.20eb26be.34e4c29e@aol.com>

Anyone got an original TR4 ignition switch in decent condition?  Mine  has 
been lost somewhere and I've got a PepBoys replacement in there now.  
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Feb 13 15:29:43 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 16:29:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] $2,600 received
Message-ID: <001e01c86e90$0a2ee2d0$7d15a8c0@garage.local>

and $5,700 pledged!!!!

thank you all of you.

and, thank you to the Miami Valley Club (that's Miami, OHIO!!) who pitched in
$100, bringing our pledges to $5,700 (I can count that, right?) and our total
to $2,600 received.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 13 16:02:56 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 15:02:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] fuel adjustment needed somewhere?
In-Reply-To: <002d01c86c6a$49e819a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <002d01c86c6a$49e819a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <097d01c86e94$926c37c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> During this 20 
> minute period, I
> could not get the engine speed to slow down. 
<snip>
> Raising the carb's pistons 
> didn't have ANY
> effect on the speed of the engine,

Perhaps you've already solved this problem, Paul ... but it sounds to me
like you've got either a major vacuum leak or the throttles cannot close
fully for some reason, combined with the fuel level being too high from a
sunken or stuck float.

My first step would be to lift the pistons fully, and shine a light on the
throttle plate, both to check that they are closed tightly and to look for
any foreign object caught in them.  Also check that the tips of the idle
adjustment screws are resting on the stops ... if not, then there may be
binding in the throttle linkage holding the throttles open.  One easy way to
check for a linkage problem is to loosen the pinch bolt for the front bell
crank, which effectively disconnects the linkage from the carbs.

If that doesn't turn up anything, I would probably try to deal with the fuel
issue next, just because leaks are easier to find when the mixture is
somewhere close.

HTH
Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Feb 13 17:33:29 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 19:33:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
In-Reply-To: <E1JPN5O-0005e3-VK@dave.getdave.com>
References: <E1JPN5O-0005e3-VK@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <200802131933.30462.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Dave,

I agree with all the other replies.

The damage does not look that bad to me. 

A real good body man should be able to restore that apron with no problem. I 
dont see any rips or tears.

If they are real good they will use lead not plastic, but there are not that 
many of those guys left that know how to work with lead.

Aprons do come up on Ebay from time to time, some good some real junk.

And I do remember one a few months ago that had a starting price of over 2K!

It did look NOS but I doubt it was an original Stanpart.

Follow all the other listers advice and good luck.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Feb 13 17:37:38 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 19:37:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Ignition Switch
In-Reply-To: <d45.20eb26be.34e4c29e@aol.com>
References: <d45.20eb26be.34e4c29e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200802131937.39252.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 13 February 2008 05:01 pm, BearTranserv at aol.com wrote:
> Anyone got an original TR4 ignition switch in decent condition?  Mine  has
> been lost somewhere and I've got a PepBoys replacement in there now.
>
> Robert B.  Houston
> Texan in New Mexico
>
> 63 TR4
Dan,

I know I have one somewhere but I dont have the keys.

But it was me who put the recent key question to the list and there are at 
least 2 suppliers who can not only supply blank keys but they can cut them to 
match the keycode on the face of the switch.

Let me know if you want this switch.

They do come  up one ebay now and again for not much $. 

There currently is one listed at item # 190198332583 with a starting price of 
19$. Has 2 keys.

Bob

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Feb 13 16:59:03 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 18:59:03 EST
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
Message-ID: <c36.231fe82f.34e4de47@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/13/2008 3:48:45 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:

If they  are real good they will use lead not plastic, but there are not that 
many  of those guys left that know how to work with  lead.



My experience is that most modern competent shops will not want anything to  
do with lead, They will tell you that if not abused by putting it on too 
thick,  it will be just as good if not better than lead.There is also a safety 
issue  associated with fumes from leading. Unless you're a real originality comp
ulsive  personm I wouldn't worry a bit about using modern filler, I expect you 
will find  it all over your car. 
 
Mike Moore 



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Feb 13 17:29:23 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 19:29:23 EST
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
Message-ID: <c77.1fddfeb0.34e4e563@aol.com>

I'm with Randall on that one.  I would look up a competent body  shop.  
Someone who can straighten metal and not a bondo king.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From team.net at daveola.com  Wed Feb 13 17:52:30 2008
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 16:52:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770802131501k4f21f4e0m591b900d467be571@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1JPN5O-0005e3-VK@dave.getdave.com>
	<6fa72a770802131501k4f21f4e0m591b900d467be571@mail.gmail.com>
	<c77.1fddfeb0.34e4e563@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E1JPSZk-0007MX-Cj@dave.getdave.com>

Bob Labuz:
> The damage does not look that bad to me...  I dont see any rips or tears.

I must confess that looking at the photos and it doesn't look as bad
as it does in person.  There *is* at least one rip, you can see it in:

http://DavePics.com/Album/Trouble/2007-10-22.Triumph-Accident/tn/cimg0823.jpg.html

It's the white line under the headlight that heads up to the fender.

The things that concern me the most are:

1) The top driver's headlight is bent back (you can see the bend
   on the very top), this also causes a bump inwards where the
   letters are.
2) There's a rip in the bondo section under the headlight as
   mentioned, though most of the apron is actually metal (it's
   one of the few body panels on the car that's still mostly
   metal, sadly).
3) The mouth above the grill is bent up and bent inwards,
   at some points folded pretty sharply.

But I'm starting to get the impression that good body guys can
fix these things (though I'm not sure how close they can get
to the original curves, or how much that actually matters to
the human eye).

Incidentally, a couple people have contacted me with possible front
aprons they could sell me, which has opened up my options greatly.

I've heard that fitting body panels from one car to another can
be a hassle, but I can't imagine it's as difficult as fixing the
apron I have...


David Lylis:
> I would look up a competent body shop.  
> Someone who can straighten metal and not a bondo king.  

Any suggestions from anyone on SF Bay Area "competent" body shops?

I should point out that I want the car to look nice (again), but
it's not a competition car.  The body shop I'm talking to now
did a pretty good job a couple years back when they did the paint job:

http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Paint-Job/

Although I should point out:

1) Not all the parts went back as desired (mostly due to the
   extremely thick paint and coat) - but it was mostly nitpicking.
2) They probably mixed the color up wrong, although I must confess
   I like the new color.
3) There wasn't any serious body work though they managed to smooth
   out the metal considerably (using bondo)
4) The body guy is quite the salesman.  Meaning I'm not sure
   whether what he's telling me will actually work out, or
   where he's getting the $1200 from (I suspect it's based
   on the new one costing $2200).

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
--- "Teach a man to make fire, and he will be warm for a day.          ----
     Set a man on fire, and he will be warm for the rest of his life."

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Feb 13 19:10:51 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 21:10:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
In-Reply-To: <E1JPSZk-0007MX-Cj@dave.getdave.com>
References: <E1JPN5O-0005e3-VK@dave.getdave.com>
	<c77.1fddfeb0.34e4e563@aol.com> <E1JPSZk-0007MX-Cj@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <200802132110.52238.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Dave,

If you can source a dent free OEM apron that is the best way to go.

But dont be surprised if you do have some issues with the fit.

My experience tells me once there is damage such as this the geometry will 
never be the same no matter what you do.

As far as the tear, that will not only have to be pounded out, it will have to 
be either welded or brazed.

But the repair would be a challenge any decent body guy would take on I am 
sure.

Best of luck.

Bob

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Wed Feb 13 18:54:28 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 20:54:28 EST
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
Message-ID: <bcb.234662e2.34e4f954@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/13/2008 4:58:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
MMoore8425 at aol.com writes:

If it  were my car, I would strip the apron from the car and remove   
everything from it.

I would buy and have a brand new grill with me.  making sure Ihave whatever  
fasteners are necessary to attach  it.
I would take that to my bodyman,possibly loosely held on the car with  a  
couple of bolts. I don't know of anything he can do which would  keep it from 
 
fitting the car though, 


==AM==
Except that I see damage in several obvious spots, and I suspect there's  
also damage in less obvious spots. With the bumper overriders bent back that  
far, chances are there could be some damage to inner fenders. I'm no expert, but  
some body people might want to do a "rough straightening" with the car 
together,  and then disassemble, finish straightening, test fit, etc., etc. But I'd 
say it  is doable, and it would be greatly preferable to big $$$ for a "new" 
apron,  which might cost almost as much to fit and finish properly as it would 
to  straighten this one. ;-)
 
Oh for the good old days, when one could be a Tasker Metal Products  
replacement apron through J.C. Whitney for a couple hundred bucks.....
 
--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed Feb 13 19:00:29 2008
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 21:00:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
In-Reply-To: <bcb.234662e2.34e4f954@aol.com>
References: <bcb.234662e2.34e4f954@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770802131800x5f5a9c06x1294603b26a6ca54@mail.gmail.com>

> Oh for the good old days, when one could be a Tasker Metal Products
> replacement apron through J.C. Whitney for a couple hundred bucks.....
>
> Was it all that long ago???  seems like only yesterday.....

From team.net at daveola.com  Wed Feb 13 18:56:26 2008
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 17:56:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
In-Reply-To: <bcb.234662e2.34e4f954@aol.com>
References: <bcb.234662e2.34e4f954@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E1JPTQ6-0007XO-Hu@dave.getdave.com>

==AM==
> With the bumper overriders bent back that far, chances are there could
> be some damage to inner fenders.

The inner fenders are pushed back about an inch each (they are not
bolted to the apron at the bottom (at least not anymore)  I wonder
if these missing bolts explain why there is so much damage considering
that the accident was at a fairly low speed.  The inner fenders don't
look otherwise damaged (in terms of dents and whatnot), so I'm hoping
they can just be pulled forward again.

I'm actually surprised to see that the overriders are merely attached
to the fenders and not the frame (except via the bumper).  Considering
how low the car is, that seems a recipe for disaster.

Dave

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                 415.341.5555
---------------- I program in C because it turns women on. ---------------- 

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Wed Feb 13 23:13:26 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 01:13:26 EST
Subject: [TR] modern rear oil seal. tr3
Message-ID: <bcb.234a3e0a.34e53606@aol.com>

any one had any experience with the modern rear oil seal for the TR3?
my instructions tell me machine 2 more oil drain holes in the rear main  cap.
did you do it?
did it work better?
if you did not do it, have you noticed any difference?
any other words of wisdom not included in the instructions?
thanks guys
Frank Fisher
 



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Feb 14 04:30:17 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 06:30:17 EST
Subject: [TR] modern rear oil seal. tr3
Message-ID: <cb9.26c32873.34e58049@aol.com>

Yes. I have installed it.  Yes I drilled the holes.  It is  not hard and I 
did it with a bench mount drill press.  Expect to spend a  couple of hours in 
setup time and twelve seconds drilling.  The motor has  gone though initial 
startup but the finished body is not on so I have no long  term experience. 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Thu Feb 14 07:38:15 2008
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 06:38:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Used switch, TR4, Lock insert data
Message-ID: <459364.26957.qm@web36805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Robert  Pete Groh, Ellicott City MD (KeyGuy)  If you still need a used
switch, give me your mailing address. I will put one in the mail for
you with directions on how to pull the lock insert out of your present
switch. 
I pick up used switch at the car show on the East Coast; pulling the
lock insert form the switch. If car owners who restore their cars, get
a car build record and find the switch or lock insert has been changed
i may have a used lock insert that matchs the number on the build
record.

On my wanted list, FS 955.

On early cars the key code letters/number were stamped on the face of
the switch. Around 1963- 1965, the cars used a FS, single side key.
Depending on what parts were still on the shelf, may have a lock insert
with the key number on face of the switch. If owners loose their key
for later models, I have a ring of pre-cut FS keys (75 number) 876-955
that I can send to owners, have to insert the key into the lock,
determine the correct key code number. At present you see car that use
the aftermarket Lucas key, with 5 numbers on same. The american key
blank that fits the lock is a Ilco LF 10 or LF 5. 
Kind regards


On Wednesday 13 February 2008 05:01 pm, BearTranserv at aol.com wrote:
Anyone got an original TR4 ignition switch in decent condition?  Mine
has been lost somewhere and I've got a PepBoys replacement in there
now.
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico  63 TR4



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca  Thu Feb 14 09:43:44 2008
From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 09:43:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
Message-ID: <47B46FC0.3050901@shaw.ca>

Dave,
I have a fiberglass Smith Deacon(sp) front apron for a TR3. The fit and 
overall shape of it is much better than the steel one a friend of mine 
bought for $2k about 5 years ago from one of the Big 3. My friend never 
used the new part on his restoration because his body man said it needed 
more work to fit it to the car than to fix the damage to the original.
I can send you pictures of the fiberglass apron if you like it's not 
installed at the moment.

Doug Hamilton
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Fiat Cabriolet

> Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 11:07:50 -0800
> From: David Ljung Madison <team.net at daveola.com>
> Subject: [TR] Front apron woes
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <E1JPN5O-0005e3-VK at dave.getdave.com>
>
> As mentioned before, my front apron is damaged.
>
> http://DavePics.com/Album/Trouble/2007-10-22.Triumph-Accident/
>
> The options I've found so far are:
>
> 1) Buy new front apron for a whopping $2250
>
> 2) Buy a fiberglass front apron and deal with possible fit issues
>    with an apron that can't really be molded (is this a concern?)
>
> 3) Pay my body shop guy $1200 to repair my current apron
>    (I'm skeptical about this - in particular the space above the
>     grill is crimped a bit, I'm not sure how they could ever get
>     it to look right again):
>
> http://DavePics.com/Album/Trouble/2007-10-22.Triumph-Accident/tn/cimg0827.jpg.html
>
> 4) Drive around my sad Triumph until I can finally find a used
>    apron on ebay.  The only ones I've seen so far are full of
>    rust.  I'd love to find one that doesn't have more than surface
>    rust and light body work, but I don't know how often these show up.
>
> Any suggestions?  I'd rather avoid #1, and I'm tending between
> #2 and #3 because I don't think another apron is going to show
> up on ebay.  (Although Murphy's law will ensure that one shows
> up just after I fix my car   :) 
>
> Do people have thoughts or experience with the fiberglass or
> with trying to unbend a damaged front end, and how much it
> should cost?
>
> And if anyone on the list knows where I can get a front apron,
> please do tell!
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
> ---------------- Computers don't kill people, people do -------

From areich at telus.net  Thu Feb 14 10:09:51 2008
From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 09:09:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] British Columbia Triumph Registry Pledges $100
Message-ID: <47B475DF.8020108@telus.net>

The British Columbia Triumph Registry met last night and was excited 
about the John Macartney Trans-AmeriCan tour and have agreed to pledge 
$100 to the project.
They have appointed me as the Vancouver contact and I am ready to work 
with John on setting up the Canadian part of the charity pledge. There 
is a lot of work to select and register the charity and I would like to 
work with the Canadian contingent to get that set up (I am assuming it 
is not yet set).
We are excited about that weekend of September 19th and 20th 2009 and 
will try to make John's "Left Turn" a memorable and successful event in 
Beautiful British Columbia and Vancouver (home of the 2010 Winter 
Olympics - February 2010).

Allan Reich
1960 TR3A - TS65713L (with added O)

From coefront at shaw.ca  Thu Feb 14 13:05:33 2008
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 13:05:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Roil bar
Message-ID: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDGEFKCPAA.coefront@shaw.ca>

Please include:

Wanted. TR8 roll bar. coefront at shaw.ca
Mike Coe


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.4/1277 - Release Date: 13/02/2008
8:00 PM

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Thu Feb 14 14:28:14 2008
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 16:28:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] wanted: 3a rear left fender fibreglass
Message-ID: <fac10b170802141328l4f4c13y92c5219bb61767b0@mail.gmail.com>

All this talk of fibreglass vs. steel aprons reminded me that I need a rear
left fender.
I have one (with the metric captive nuts that Randall also experienced) but
after sitting up in my garage rafters for a few months, it has warped very
strangely and I think a replacement would be easier than a fix - if I can
find one.
Any leads out there? I can cope with the metric captive nuts....
Thanks,
Jim
2TS81417L+O

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Feb 14 14:43:43 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 16:43:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Roll Bars
Message-ID: <006101c86f52$abc20600$fd1c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

List, which is the better brand of roll bars, I have drawn a blank, or a
"Senior Moment"   "FT"

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Thu Feb 14 15:23:56 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 17:23:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] ENGINE RUNNING!
Message-ID: <004b01c86f58$4a61aea0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I've had the engine running smoothly at about 3000rpm now for about 20
minutes.  The carb linkage issue has been resolved for now.  It sounded great!
(Although the exhaust rumblings were a little inconsistant- but, hey, don't I
hear that on other old sports cars? (Why does it do that?)
    The new Wizard Cooling Radiator was doing great...I think.  It has
antifreeze in it, and when I pump 7 lbs. of pressure (using a rented LAPS rad.
pressure checker) it will go down to 5 or 6 lbs. of pressure and hold it for
several minutes.  The rental's little instruction booklet says this is good
enuf, but, they may not be the right equipment for a Triumph.  The reason I
say that is they make no mention of an 'overnight test' and also that I had to
cut a piece of rubber for a temporary gasket to insert in the very top of the
rad. neck in order to try and get a good seal.  Possibly, this gauge had been
rented out too much, cause I suspect it would leak out air if left on it
overnight.
    Which is my next question: how does one use this or another/better
radiator pressure checker to test for pressure leakage?  I think if the
pressure doesn't hold 5 lbs. overnight then one might suspect their figure-8
gaskets, right?  I think 'figure-8 gasket' testing is prudent since I found
the crankcase partily full of water about a week ago.
    Another issue is the water temp.  While running, it slowly rose to 190
degrees, and after cutting it off it went to 200.  I don't remember the
specification of the installed thermostat,- it might have been 190.  But I had
one thermostat that was a 180 specification.  If the 180 thermostat was the
one installed, shouldn't I be concerned with the 190-195 on the gauge?
Proably not, cause the engine was sitting still, with a window fan running
right in front of it.  I have installed the radiator's electric fan, but, I
have not wired it up yet!
    That brings me to the biggest question: after about 5 minutes of running,
the new radiator was dripping coolant out of the uppermost 'bung hole'.  This
is a threaded hole TIG(?) welded in by Scott at wizard radiator, and is
located on the top tank and on the same level as the neck of the radiator  .
This bung has a plug (requiring an 11/16" wrench to tighten) was a $20
addition which would be required by the future electric fan temp sensor.  On
the outside of the 11/16" plug is a drab green colored tape-covered small
electrical terminal.   Perhaps I only need tighten this plug to  about 50
ftlbs. of torque.  Is that about right?
      I dunno, maybe I should number my questions?

Thanks, Paul

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Feb 14 16:25:36 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 18:25:36 EST
Subject: [TR] ENGINE RUNNING!
Message-ID: <cfb.28ea461a.34e627f0@aol.com>

Paul,
1.  Number your questions (wink)
2.  190 for a freshly started motor is OK.  Some would say it's  OK for a 
broken in motor running stationary for 20 minutes.
3.  That it rises after you shut it off is OK
4.  I would ditch the pressure tester and just see if it  overheats.  Looks 
like it doesn't
5.  Figure of 8 is far from the weakest point in the system.  The  things are 
clamped in at 105 ft lbs.
6.  I recall you said your water may have been rain from your motor  sitting.
7.  Did you find coolant in the oil after the 20 minute run?
8.  I think you are asking if you should tighten a radiator bung at 50  ft 
lbs.  That is a lot for a radiator and you are likely to break something  IMO.
 
Whew!
 
That my take on the subject(s).
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Thu Feb 14 17:56:17 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 16:56:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10802141656o6cd7b7e7vf5f9a55ae9c9dcd4@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all

I'm at the point of dealing with my broken crank engine. I've stripped the
engine and liberated the good crank from the spare engine. I've discovered
that:
1. The new crank does not turn in the old block when torqued down with the
new crank's bearings (from the spare engine). This suggests that the block
was twisted when the crank was broken, right? Meaning I need to get the
block "line-bored?"  The crank journals measure very close to spec, but
should I grind to .010 under anyways to be sure of a good and easy turn?
2. The oversized piston sleeves are ridged at the top, meaning they have
developed a taper, correct? So I should replace the sleeves? Hopefully I can
make do with the existing upgraded pistons.
3. The cam is shot, with pitting at some lobes. I have the specs of this
upgraded cam, and can have it reground to those specs. Is that a good idea,
or should I get a new  "street" cam, such as the old "D" cam. I think it
might be best to replicate the old cam since the engine was built around
that in the late 70's.
4. I am having a valve job; valves badly carbonized and some aren't seating
well. The machinist thinks the seats are hardened, but if not, I'll have
that done.
5. I'm going to do my best to really seal up this baby. The last one I did,
on another engine, ten years ago, puddles wherever I go.  A speedi-sleeve at
the front crank seal? On the rear seal, new but stock size "oil seal
assembly," with well stuffed felt seals?  I think I'll buy Moss's crank
alignment tool to make sure everything is centered correctly. Any
suggestions?  Should I mate the front and rear caps with hylomar or
something? Should the gaskets be dressed?

Whoa, that's enough. Sorry to be so wordy.

Many TIA

John Howard
64 TR4 CT35800
65 TR4 CT38746

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Feb 14 20:18:19 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 19:18:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] A tribute to Sir Joseph Lucas
Message-ID: <p06240802c3dab4b3bcd2@[98.224.7.170]>

Trust me folks, you gotta  see  this  ...

Fitting tribute to the father of British automitive electical systems:

<http://www.hummingbirds.net/lucas/>http://www.hummingbirds.net/lucas/





-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Feb 14 20:18:19 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 19:18:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] A tribute to Sir Joseph Lucas
Message-ID: <p06240802c3dab4b3bcd2@[98.224.7.170]>

Trust me folks, you gotta  see  this  ...

Fitting tribute to the father of British automitive electical systems:

<http://www.hummingbirds.net/lucas/>http://www.hummingbirds.net/lucas/





-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 14 20:43:37 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 21:43:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] $3,000 Recieved so far
Message-ID: <000801c86f84$f3a1e9e0$800101df@garage.local>

Thank you, all of you!  Just a few more checks and I'll be able to fix my
Honda . . .

c/o Sumton Network Services, Inc
3767 Forest Lane
Suite 124-335
Dallas, TX 75244-7100

please make checks out to the Red River Triumph Club

From thomas309 at aol.com  Thu Feb 14 20:50:05 2008
From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 22:50:05 EST
Subject: [TR] 1965 austin healey 3000 BJ8
Message-ID: <cdf.244220b3.34e665ed@aol.com>

_1965 austin  healey 3000 BJ8_ 
(http://albany.craigslist.org/car/558555458.html)  
 
Not mine, NFI.



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Feb 15 06:42:57 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 08:42:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1965 austin healey 3000 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <cdf.244220b3.34e665ed@aol.com>
References: <cdf.244220b3.34e665ed@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200802150842.58120.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday 14 February 2008 10:50 pm, thomas309 at aol.com wrote:
> _1965 austin  healey 3000 BJ8_
> (http://albany.craigslist.org/car/558555458.html)
>
> Not mine, NFI.
>
>

I took a look at the listing. I know the AH3000 is a nice looking car with 
some umph and in demand, but is that project worth 11K?

I have to wonder how much more $ would have to be invested to complete the 
restoration.

Does anyone have a guess ?

Bob

From mathews at uga.edu  Fri Feb 15 06:48:54 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 08:48:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1965 austin healey 3000 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <200802150842.58120.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <cdf.244220b3.34e665ed@aol.com>
	<200802150842.58120.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <20080215134904.40CC2187646@autox.team.net>

Saw an article in the Atlanta paper I belive and a guy put over 100k 
into his I belive...It really depends I guess on how particular you 
are.  I'm sure most of the $$$ was for labor hours.

Doug

At 08:42 AM 2/15/2008, you wrote:
>took a look at the listing. I know the AH3000 is a nice looking car with
>some umph and in demand, but is that project worth 11K?
>
>I have to wonder how much more $ would have to be invested to complete the
>restoration.
>
>Does anyone have a guess ?

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Fri Feb 15 07:10:36 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 09:10:36 EST
Subject: [TR] 1965 austin healey 3000 BJ8
Message-ID: <d18.215cd103.34e6f75c@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/15/2008 4:58:00 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:

I took a  look at the listing. I know the AH3000 is a nice looking car with 
some  umph and in demand, but is that project worth 11K?

I have to wonder how  much more $ would have to be invested to complete the  
restoration.

Does anyone have a guess  ?

Bob


I have restored two E Type roadsters in about the same shape. 
 
It would be nice if the car was in better shape than it is, but its most  
important that all the parts are there. 
 
For instance, to me, it doesn't matter what shape the engine is as long as  
its rebuildable as i will rebuild it anyway. 
It doesn't matter what condition the transmission is in as it would get  
rebuilt anyway. 
Instruments , in the grand scheme of things, don't represent that much  
money. I have paid about that much for each of my E types, in about the same  
shape. I spent around $45k on one and ca $60 on the other. I did all the work  
myself except body and paint, which were my most expensive items.The body and  
paint cost could be a showstopper unless you could do it all  yourself. 
 
My cars are worth close to what I spent if not a little bit more  so long as 
I figure my labor at .01/hr!
. 
It also doesn't matter a lot to me whether the cost is $10k or  $12k if its 
going to end up being a $80,000 or so  freshly restored big  Healey. 
Just my opinion.
Best, 
Mike Moore 



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Feb 15 07:39:58 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 14:39:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] 1965 austin healey 3000 BJ8
Message-ID: <021520081439.25954.47B5A43E000022070000656222070009539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

> _1965 austin  healey 3000 BJ8_ 
> (http://albany.craigslist.org/car/558555458.html)  

Fairly easy to build a vintage racer or facsimile thereof.  To restore it to an original street-equipped car would cost a fortune.  Better to take that fortune and buy a better car in the first place.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Fri Feb 15 08:46:54 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (308gtsi at roadrunner.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 07:46:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] What Does It Weigh?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1197399601.17787.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <009101c86fe9$fd64e490$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

I'd have to agree with the weights Randall states, and can go a bit further
if anyone cares:
Body tub: about 400-450 pounds (just the tub stripped bare)
Frame: 100-150 pounds (stripped of everything)

Someone want to add it all up and see if it comes close to 2200 pounds? :-)

Brian
'67 TR4a
______________________________________________

Message: 12
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 10:53:31 -0800
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] What Does It Weigh?
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <02d901c83c27$2007eac0$6a5636cc at jdnet.deere.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> OK.....so as I get ready to pull lots of TR6 stuff, I'm 
> wondering....what
> does it weigh...in case it falls on my head! Just kidding as 
> I'm a very
> cautious person but what does it weigh? Engine? Tranny? 
> Differential? and
> Driveshaft?

Bob, I didn't see any answers to this, so here are some guesstimates.  

Engine : Dan Masters gave 460 lbs, fully assembled but dry 
Gearbox : Roughly 100 lbs, more with OD. (With crate & J-type, UPS said mine
was 145)
Diff :	Roughly 80 lbs
Driveshaft : I'd guess at about 20 lbs.

Randall


------------------------------

_______________________________________________

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 403
****************************************

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri Feb 15 09:56:09 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 11:56:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild
References: <cd09b7f10802141656o6cd7b7e7vf5f9a55ae9c9dcd4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00b601c86ff3$aa548120$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>

A reply to #5, the rear "seal": Have Greg Solo at The Engine Room rework the 
original aluminum pieces. Don't buy some repro parts. Greg will also lone 
you the correct alignment tool. His tolerances are tighter than the 
original. Also, drill two additional drain holes in the rear main cap. And, 
yes, a Speedi Sleeve at the front.

Ed Woods


> Hi all
>
> I'm at the point of dealing with my broken crank engine. I've stripped the
> engine and liberated the good crank from the spare engine. I've discovered
> that:

> 5. I'm going to do my best to really seal up this baby. The last one I 
> did,
> on another engine, ten years ago, puddles wherever I go.  A speedi-sleeve 
> at
> the front crank seal? On the rear seal, new but stock size "oil seal
> assembly," with well stuffed felt seals?  I think I'll buy Moss's crank
> alignment tool to make sure everything is centered correctly. Any
> suggestions?  Should I mate the front and rear caps with hylomar or
> something? Should the gaskets be dressed?
>
> Whoa, that's enough. Sorry to be so wordy.
>
> Many TIA
>
> John Howard
> 64 TR4 CT35800
> 65 TR4 CT38746

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri Feb 15 12:11:34 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 14:11:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild
References: <cd09b7f10802141656o6cd7b7e7vf5f9a55ae9c9dcd4@mail.gmail.com>
	<00b601c86ff3$aa548120$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <003401c87006$95ac7080$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>

That is, he'll loan you the lone tool.....

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Fri Feb 15 13:33:43 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 12:33:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <003401c87006$95ac7080$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <cd09b7f10802141656o6cd7b7e7vf5f9a55ae9c9dcd4@mail.gmail.com>
	<00b601c86ff3$aa548120$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<003401c87006$95ac7080$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10802151233v1b0a649fuc58895a5b662a2b9@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Ed.
Where is the Engine Room? Only one I found is in Portland, Me....is that
it?  Where do you drill the extra drain holes? Maybe an inch away on each
side of the original hole?

John

On Fri, Feb 15, 2008 at 11:11 AM, Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:

> That is, he'll loan you the lone tool.....

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 15 14:44:06 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 13:44:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10802151233v1b0a649fuc58895a5b662a2b9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cd09b7f10802141656o6cd7b7e7vf5f9a55ae9c9dcd4@mail.gmail.com><00b601c86ff3$aa548120$6700a8c0@Edscomputer><003401c87006$95ac7080$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<cd09b7f10802151233v1b0a649fuc58895a5b662a2b9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0c4101c8701b$e402b630$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Where is the Engine Room? 

I have :

Greg Solow's Engine Room
125 Front St
Santa Cruz, CA 95060-4403
Phone: (831) 429-1800 
gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com

Randall

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Fri Feb 15 14:45:53 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 16:45:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10802151233v1b0a649fuc58895a5b662a2b9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cd09b7f10802141656o6cd7b7e7vf5f9a55ae9c9dcd4@mail.gmail.com>
	<00b601c86ff3$aa548120$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<003401c87006$95ac7080$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> 
	<cd09b7f10802151233v1b0a649fuc58895a5b662a2b9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY109-W178468F8B8D1C211EA7C9EA5260@phx.gbl>

> Thanks, Ed.> Where is the Engine Room? Only one I found is in Portland,
Me....is that> it? Where do you drill the extra drain holes? Maybe an inch
away on each> side of the original hole?> > John


Ed & John:

I think it's spelled Solow, if that helps your search any. The current owner
of my old TR3 racecar had an engine done there, and he lives in Washington. So
The Engine Room is probably in The Great Northwest somewhere.

John

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Fri Feb 15 15:38:11 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 17:38:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <0c4101c8701b$e402b630$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <cd09b7f10802141656o6cd7b7e7vf5f9a55ae9c9dcd4@mail.gmail.com><00b601c86ff3$aa548120$6700a8c0@Edscomputer><003401c87006$95ac7080$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<cd09b7f10802151233v1b0a649fuc58895a5b662a2b9@mail.gmail.com> 
	<0c4101c8701b$e402b630$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY109-W26B592117D487F7A47F2BDA5260@phx.gbl>

> > Where is the Engine Room? > > I have :> > Greg Solow's Engine Room> 125
Front St> Santa Cruz, CA 95060-4403> Phone: (831) 429-1800 >
gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com> > Randall

Oops. I became confused.

John

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Fri Feb 15 15:50:13 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 14:50:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <BAY109-W178468F8B8D1C211EA7C9EA5260@phx.gbl>
References: <cd09b7f10802141656o6cd7b7e7vf5f9a55ae9c9dcd4@mail.gmail.com>
	<00b601c86ff3$aa548120$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<003401c87006$95ac7080$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> 
	<cd09b7f10802151233v1b0a649fuc58895a5b662a2b9@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY109-W178468F8B8D1C211EA7C9EA5260@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <47B61725.5060708@razzolink.com>

>Where is the Engine Room? 
They are in Santa Cruz California.  They built up the engine in my TR3A. 
  They do good work but are not the best for DCOEs.

TeriAnn

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Fri Feb 15 18:07:50 2008
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 18:07:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pre-vs-Post Comm. #60,000
Message-ID: <000001c87038$5add6f40$6401a8c0@sniffer>

I currently am working on an early TR3A, Comm. 30,766 but am looking ahead
to another project opportunity that has presented itself with Comm. #64,915.
I read about 60,000 being a break point for a lot of changes in the car and
am un-sure as to what extra parts I have from the present car will
cross-over to the late 3A.
 
The only place I had been able to look is in the Moss catalog, it describes
the Lucar connectors, rear seat shelf and raised portions on the bonnet and
boot for the hinges.  What disturbed me was it also says "Metal body"???  If
my other car is not metal, then what is it?
 
Any additional input from the list would be greatly appreciated as well as
any resource that you may know of.
 
Thanks,
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 15 18:37:42 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 17:37:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] Pre-vs-Post Comm. #60,000
In-Reply-To: <000001c87038$5add6f40$6401a8c0@sniffer>
References: <000001c87038$5add6f40$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <0ca701c8703c$85c136c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> What disturbed me was it also says 
> "Metal body"???  If
> my other car is not metal, then what is it?

Pre-60K cars actually have some wood (ash) in the body, along the tops of
the doors and above the dash.  The post-60K bodies eliminated that.

Other changes at 60K include the door hinges, spare tire compartment, rear
(occasional) seat bottom, cockpit rear panel, fuel tank, and if I remember
correctly, the passenger door lock mechanism.  Dash changed slightly too
(although maybe it was just the covering that changed).

Other changes between 35K and 60K include the starter, ring gear,
transmission housing, transmission tunnel, transmission top cover, dash
light control & knob, carburetor fuel fittings & line ... the list goes on.

Don't recall when the fuel tap was deleted, but ISTR it was at 60K if not
before.  The fuel lines between pump & tank changed at the same time.  Fuel
filler changed somewhere in there, too.

Tonneau cover, convertible top, trunk seal, door panels, piping, "lift the
dot" stud locations.

Oh yeah, 35K would have had 10" rear brakes, which changed to 9" before 60K.
Rear brake cylinders were different.  Front brake calipers are different
too, although the pads were the same.

Check the Moss catalog & Piggott's Original TR2-3B.  Between the two of
them, most of the changes are mentioned.  Lots of them I've missed here.

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Feb 15 19:13:56 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 21:13:56 EST
Subject: [TR] What Does It Weigh?
Message-ID: <c51.22885960.34e7a0e4@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/15/2008 10:47:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
308gtsi at roadrunner.com writes:

Body  tub: about 400-450 pounds (just the tub stripped  bare)



Really?  I just took mine off a trailer with just one other guy  and I am a 
90 lb weakling.  (OK so I'm 190 lbs, but I'm not that  strong).
I have a strut bolted across the door opening and each of us just grabbed  
and lifted.  400 - 450 seems like a lot.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri Feb 15 20:12:29 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 22:12:29 EST
Subject: [TR] What Does It Weigh?
Message-ID: <cd6.257d86b5.34e7ae9d@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/15/2008 10:47:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
308gtsi at roadrunner.com writes:

Frame:  100-150 pounds (stripped of everything)








RATCO reports that a bare TR6 frame weighs 180 lbs - having moved one  
around, that seems more accurate to me. The RATCO reproduction frame weighs 235  
lbs. 
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From thomas309 at aol.com  Fri Feb 15 21:14:37 2008
From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 23:14:37 EST
Subject: [TR] 1965 austin healey 3000 BJ8
Message-ID: <bf9.2fc95651.34e7bd2d@aol.com>

WOW...I didn't even look at the $$$ when I posted it!  That's a lot of  cash..
I just pass the ads along, when I see something that someone may be  
interested in. Tom



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From thomasb at queensu.ca  Sat Feb 16 10:09:50 2008
From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 12:09:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd: NYTimes.com: Triumph Is Pick of Online Voters
Message-ID: <0JWC000CND0M8V50@mta01.its.queensu.ca>

Hi Guys,

My brother-in-law (former XKE owner) sent me this from the New York Times:

/   | February 17, 2008
<http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/17/automobiles/collectibles/17contest.html?ex=1203829200&en=e7fc01f02dcbf78d&ei=5070&emc=eta1>Triumph 
Is Pick of Online Voters
By RICHARD S. CHANG
A black 1959 Triumph TR3A is the winner of the Collectible Car of the 
Year contest.

... COOL!

Cheers,

Brian

Brian S. Thomas e-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca
Holliday Point          work:   613-533-2228
R R 1                   fax:    613-385-1948
Wolfe Island, Ontario   home:   613-385-1947
K0H 2Y0         toys:   54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20  

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Feb 16 11:56:15 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 13:56:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd: NYTimes.com: Triumph Is Pick of Online Voters
In-Reply-To: <0JWC000CND0M8V50@mta01.its.queensu.ca>
References: <0JWC000CND0M8V50@mta01.its.queensu.ca>
Message-ID: <200802161356.16045.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 16 February 2008 12:09 pm, Brian Thomas wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> My brother-in-law (former XKE owner) sent me this from the New York Times:
>
> /   | February 17, 2008
> <http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/17/automobiles/collectibles/17contest.html?
>ex=1203829200&en=e7fc01f02dcbf78d&ei=5070&emc=eta1>Triumph Is Pick of Online
> Voters
> By RICHARD S. CHANG
> A black 1959 Triumph TR3A is the winner of the Collectible Car of the
> Year contest.

> ... COOL!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Brian
>
Yeah, hard to believe!

But if you read the article, the author refers to the 3s as elegant but were 
replaces by boxy cars!

I have never thought that the 4, 4a, 250 or 6 were boxy at all!!! Refined 
maybe.

And the Spits, GT6s?

Just to be sure I went in the garage and took the covers off the 3 and 4.

Yes quite different but both elegant in my mind!

And they also refer to the new Triumph motorcycles as robots.

So I took the cover off my 98 T-Bird. Hmm looks like a classic to my eyes!

Well it is hovering at about 15F so I covered up the iron and went back  to 
warm up.

Bob

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Sat Feb 16 14:27:06 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 14:27:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Back on the road
Message-ID: <1FE8704C-CDA6-432D-9135-E0E94EF13461@cox.net>

Well my TR3A is now officially back on the road after I completed
installation of a Dan Masters wiring system and a new GM alternator.
I drove it to work Thursday morning (5:30AM) and the headlights have
never been so bright.  I am running Hella H4 headlights with PIAA
ultra white bulbs, which I originally had on my 911.  The amount of
light on the road was phenomenal!!

Based on Dans recommendations I have also installed Ron Francis extra
bright bulbs in the running, brake, & turn signals.  Those lights are
so bright, that at night I can tell the front turn signals are
flashing by seeing the flashes reflecting off the road!!

In short I am a very satisfied customer both of the product & all the
advice I received during the installation!

:-)

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From douglashansen at yahoo.com  Sat Feb 16 15:06:55 2008
From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 14:06:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: NYTimes.com: Triumph Is Pick of Online Voters
Message-ID: <137263.8259.qm@web52201.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I think it depends on what you grew up with... I grew up with 3s and I think the 4s-6 are boxy...
I do like the wedges tho.  but I am an 80s child 
 
Douglas A. Hansen
www.1147cc.com
 



----- Original Message ----
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 1:56:15 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: NYTimes.com: Triumph Is Pick of Online Voters

On Saturday 16 February 2008 12:09 pm, Brian Thomas wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> My brother-in-law (former XKE owner) sent me this from the New York Times:
>
> /  | February 17, 2008
> <http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/17/automobiles/collectibles/17contest.html?
>ex=1203829200&en=e7fc01f02dcbf78d&ei=5070&emc=eta1>Triumph Is Pick of Online
> Voters
> By RICHARD S. CHANG
> A black 1959 Triumph TR3A is the winner of the Collectible Car of the
> Year contest.

> ... COOL!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Brian
>
Yeah, hard to believe!

But if you read the article, the author refers to the 3s as elegant but were 
replaces by boxy cars!

I have never thought that the 4, 4a, 250 or 6 were boxy at all!!! Refined 
maybe.

And the Spits, GT6s?

Just to be sure I went in the garage and took the covers off the 3 and 4.

Yes quite different but both elegant in my mind!

And they also refer to the new Triumph motorcycles as robots.

So I took the cover off my 98 T-Bird. Hmm looks like a classic to my eyes!

Well it is hovering at about 15F so I covered up the iron and went back  to 
warm up.

Bob
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as douglashansen at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From technical-iwnet at onwight.net  Sat Feb 16 18:30:53 2008
From: technical-iwnet at onwight.net (Graham Stretch)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 01:30:53 -0000
Subject: [TR] Goodwood Tour
References: <p06240800c3d8cdf7a827@[98.224.7.170]>
Message-ID: <008501c87104$bc852770$0601a8c0@Zebu>

Hi Bill
Just catching up on some messages!

We have done the Revival (and Festival of Speed) several times, they are 
both excellent events, and we may well be there again this year, I don't 
know if you are dealing direct with Goodwood, but they do sell out quite 
early, so advance purchase is a good idea. If you are dealing Direct with 
Goodwood I would say no worries about purchasing early, if through an agent 
or tour operator then you need specific info on the company involved.

Keep us appraised as it would be good to meet up if there are some of us 
going!

Graham.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill & AnnaBelle" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 4:43 PM
Subject: [TR] Goodwood Tour


> Hi folks,
> There was an ad in the VTR magazine (I think), for the
> Goodwood Revival Tour, we are seriously considering it.  It is very
> expensive, and the last eMail from the organizer is asking that we
> remit the funds now ... I am a little concerned as the tour is not
> till September.
> If anyone has had experience dealing with England Specials it
> would give us a "warm/fuzzy" to know that we are not being conned.
>
> Thanks for your input ...
>
> -- 
> Bill  Pugh
> 1957 TR3 TS16765L
> aka
> Casper
>
> AnnaBelle Pugh
> 1970 TR6 CC59179L
> aka
> Rosey
> Wallace, CA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as technical-iwnet at onwight.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.4/1276 - Release Date: 
> 13/02/2008 09:41

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun Feb 17 18:06:58 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 20:06:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw: [6pack] Parts washers
Message-ID: <07ed01c871ca$903f7730$6401a8c0@STATION6>

>I have used mine for years. Mine is about 30 years old. I use commercial 
>degreaser that you can buy at Tractor Supply. Five gallons nonflammable. I 
>have cleaned everything from carbs to transmissions in mine. Liked it so 
>much I purchased a small table top version for the small stuff. Integral 
>part of a complete shop. One word of advise. Make sure you buy some cheap 
>bathroom paneling (4'x 8') and cover the walls around the unit. You will 
>get splashing and this makes for easy cleanup and stain free walls. Don't 
>forget the rubber gloves. The cleaner will strip any oils in your skin. 
>Don't need dermatitis.
> Alex Manzo
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "John North" <johncnorth at gmail.com>
> To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 7:06 PM
> Subject: [6pack] Parts washers
>
>
>> Anyone use one of these stand-up types with the flexible hose?
>> Normally I use a plastic bucket and kerosene, but I'm thinking about
>> buying something like this:
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7340
>>
>> or this
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94994
>>
>> The manuals say not to use kerosene or other flammables, but the store
>> clerk said mineral spirits is OK.   Not sure that mineral spirits is
>> any less flammable than kerosene - anyone know better?
>>
>> Any advice appreciated.
>>
>> John North

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Feb 18 09:02:58 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 11:02:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] draining the coolant?
Message-ID: <001d01c87247$bc11d970$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I am draining the coolant in my '60 TR3A (with a TR4 engine).  Will it
completely empty if I open both the drain cock at the radiator and on the
engine?
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb 18 09:39:20 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 08:39:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] draining the coolant?
In-Reply-To: <001d01c87247$bc11d970$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080218163920.PPO1279.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> I am draining the coolant in my '60 TR3A (with a TR4 engine). 
>  Will it completely empty if I open both the drain cock at 
> the radiator and on the engine?

The heater will remain full, and small amounts of coolant will remain in the
engine block, water pump housing, and lower radiator tank.

Only way I know to get it completely dry (short of disassembling) is to blow
it out with compressed air.  But usually, opening the two taps is good
enough.

Randall

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Mon Feb 18 14:30:54 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (308gtsi at roadrunner.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 13:30:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector
Message-ID: <006201c87275$8b56f0d0$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

Hi all,

 

I feel spring close and the TR is itching to be seeing the open road! But
there's still the chill in the air. now if only I had a way to connect the
scuttle vent rod to the scuttle vent lever to let the heat blast in! Does
anyone have a spare one of these little obscure connectors? Or can someone
send me a picture of what it looks like? When I bought my 4a, it was
disassembled 25 years ago and in 2 pickup loads of boxes. I was amazed it
was as complete as it was!

 

Thanks in advance and here's to the sun melting the ice, snow, and slush
that covers our roads!

 

Brian

'67 TR4a

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Feb 18 15:34:42 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 17:34:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector
In-Reply-To: <006201c87275$8b56f0d0$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <006201c87275$8b56f0d0$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <200802181734.44382.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 18 February 2008 04:30 pm, 308gtsi at roadrunner.com wrote:
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I feel spring close and the TR is itching to be seeing the open road! But
> there's still the chill in the air. now if only I had a way to connect the
> scuttle vent rod to the scuttle vent lever to let the heat blast in! Does
> anyone have a spare one of these little obscure connectors? Or can someone
> send me a picture of what it looks like? When I bought my 4a, it was
> disassembled 25 years ago and in 2 pickup loads of boxes. I was amazed it
> was as complete as it was!
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance and here's to the sun melting the ice, snow, and slush
> that covers our roads!
>
>
>
> Brian
>
> '67 TR4a
Brian,

Looks like to be Moss Part # 734-245 and TRF (TRIUMPH) part # 611117

About 9 bucks at either place.

THere is a photo on the Moss web site.

All I can say is have fun installing it!

Bob

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Mon Feb 18 14:53:40 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 13:53:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector
In-Reply-To: <200802181734.44382.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <009201c87278$b9720b00$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

Thanks Bob, but I have the rod. What I need is the small, obscure connector
to attach the rod to the lever under the dash. I image it looks something
like a cable stop, but I'm not sure.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Labuz [mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net] 
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:35 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 308gtsi at adelphia.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector

On Monday 18 February 2008 04:30 pm, 308gtsi at roadrunner.com wrote:
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I feel spring close and the TR is itching to be seeing the open road! But
> there's still the chill in the air. now if only I had a way to connect the
> scuttle vent rod to the scuttle vent lever to let the heat blast in! Does
> anyone have a spare one of these little obscure connectors? Or can someone
> send me a picture of what it looks like? When I bought my 4a, it was
> disassembled 25 years ago and in 2 pickup loads of boxes. I was amazed it
> was as complete as it was!
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance and here's to the sun melting the ice, snow, and slush
> that covers our roads!
>
>
>
> Brian
>
> '67 TR4a
Brian,

Looks like to be Moss Part # 734-245 and TRF (TRIUMPH) part # 611117

About 9 bucks at either place.

THere is a photo on the Moss web site.

All I can say is have fun installing it!

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb 18 15:21:44 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 14:21:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector
In-Reply-To: <009201c87278$b9720b00$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <200802181734.44382.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<009201c87278$b9720b00$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <0ff101c8727c$a4a3d290$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> What I need is the small, 
> obscure connector
> to attach the rod to the lever under the dash.

If I'm reading things correctly, it was originally P/N 612219, which
Revington has listed on their website for 2.05 GBP.

TRF says 609123 is a suitable substitute, or RFK836 (which is a kit
containing both the trunnion and the screw).
http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/55.php?s_wt=1920&s_ht=1200

HTH
Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Feb 18 16:13:22 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 18:13:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector
In-Reply-To: <009201c87278$b9720b00$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <009201c87278$b9720b00$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <200802181813.23498.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 18 February 2008 04:53 pm, Brian Induni wrote:
> Thanks Bob, but I have the rod. What I need is the small, obscure connector
> to attach the rod to the lever under the dash. I image it looks something
> like a cable stop, but I'm not sure.
>
> Brian
>
Brian,

Sorry, mis read your post.

Yeah I didnt have that little gizmo either so I made one out of a similar part 
that is in the heater water control.

Take a look at Moss part # 473-070.

I had a few of these lying around and it fit just fine after I drilled out the 
cable hole a bit.

The parts manual lists this part as 612219. TRF says they have it.

about 2 bucks.

Sorry for the error post!

Bob

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Feb 18 15:36:12 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 17:36:12 EST
Subject: [TR] draining the coolant?
Message-ID: <cef.2a8aa3f6.34eb625c@aol.com>

No. There will be a little left in the "nooks and crannies".
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Feb 18 21:00:03 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 23:00:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] brake fitting size?
Message-ID: <004a01c872ab$e8bc2e80$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Are all of the brake fittings/ brake junctions the same size?  That's 3/8", I
believe.
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
'60 TR3

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Feb 18 22:08:36 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 00:08:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground
Message-ID: <005b01c872b5$7bebb0f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
Although I have stressed my newly rebuilt engine, mostly by running it too hot
and too fast, and letting water get in the crankcase (these problems have now
been fixed), I am now turning my attention back to the rebuilding.  One issue
is the wiring:  IT STILL IS POSITIVE GROUND!  My goal, however, is to convert
to negative ground.  I will be installing a Pertronix electronic ignition
(intended for neg. grnd. vehicles) and a alternator (to replace the
generator).
Thusfar, I have not hooked up the wiring harness (however the wires have
already been run).  For past running of the car I had it temporairily hooked
up thusly: the negative ran to the the proper side of the coil and also would
turn the starter motor, and the positive battery lead was grounded.  No
battery charging occured.
    Now that I know that the engine works wouldn't now be the right time to
convert to neg. ground?????????????  Thusfar, I have ignored this subject, now
I would like any suggestions on how to do this.

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
'60 TR3

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Feb 18 22:13:23 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 22:13:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector
In-Reply-To: <200802181813.23498.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <009201c87278$b9720b00$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
	<200802181813.23498.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <000001c872b6$27b3faa0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

 Or try your local motorcycle shop as these are used to make cable ends when
that can't be soldered.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day!


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Labuz
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 4:13 PM
To: 308gtsi at adelphia.net; Triumph Email List
Subject: Re: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector

On Monday 18 February 2008 04:53 pm, Brian Induni wrote:
> Thanks Bob, but I have the rod. What I need is the small, obscure 
> connector to attach the rod to the lever under the dash. I image it 
> looks something like a cable stop, but I'm not sure.
>
> Brian
>
Brian,

Sorry, mis read your post.

Yeah I didnt have that little gizmo either so I made one out of a similar
part that is in the heater water control.

Take a look at Moss part # 473-070.

I had a few of these lying around and it fit just fine after I drilled out
the cable hole a bit.

The parts manual lists this part as 612219. TRF says they have it.

about 2 bucks.

Sorry for the error post!

Bob
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Mon Feb 18 23:11:02 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 22:11:02 -0800
Subject: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground
References: <005b01c872b5$7bebb0f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <00d401c872be$343c5120$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

It is not difficult for the change over:
1. connect your ground from the fire wall to negative side of the
battery...make sure ground terminal has good contact with the firewall
(original) or (ground strap from battery to the engine non-original) if you
prefer
2. positive side of battery terminal to solenoid
3. reverse wire terminals to amp gauge from schematic
I never hooked up an alternator to my TR3A so I let some of the other listers
chime in.
Sorry you had to go through those initial pains...but it will be worth it.
My finished TR3A will be done in March or April.
Just in time for great weather in Las Vegas.
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: dorpaul
  To: list Triumph
  Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 9:08 PM
  Subject: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground


  List,
  Although I have stressed my newly rebuilt engine, mostly by running it too
hot
  and too fast, and letting water get in the crankcase (these problems have
now
  been fixed), I am now turning my attention back to the rebuilding.  One
issue
  is the wiring:  IT STILL IS POSITIVE GROUND!  My goal, however, is to
convert
  to negative ground.  I will be installing a Pertronix electronic ignition
  (intended for neg. grnd. vehicles) and a alternator (to replace the
  generator).
  Thusfar, I have not hooked up the wiring harness (however the wires have
  already been run).  For past running of the car I had it temporairily
hooked
  up thusly: the negative ran to the the proper side of the coil and also
would
  turn the starter motor, and the positive battery lead was grounded.  No
  battery charging occured.
      Now that I know that the engine works wouldn't now be the right time to
  convert to neg. ground?????????????  Thusfar, I have ignored this subject,
now
  I would like any suggestions on how to do this.

  Thanks,
  Paul Dorsey
  '60 TR3
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From 6parts at charter.net  Mon Feb 18 23:14:30 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 01:14:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] throttle shaft bushings
Message-ID: <008201c872be$b05592d0$dbd70c47@alan>

The rubber bushings that go on the Carburetor throttle shaft:

Does the solid side go on the outside of the carb body or towards the inside.

I wasn't paying attention when I pulled the old ones out.

thanks

Al

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Feb 18 23:41:23 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 23:41:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] throttle shaft bushings
References: <008201c872be$b05592d0$dbd70c47@alan>
Message-ID: <003201c872c2$72a1d710$54f30818@rolofson>

Solid side out.

Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Alan Salvatore
  To: 6pack ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 11:14 PM
  Subject: [6pack] throttle shaft bushings


  The rubber bushings that go on the Carburetor throttle shaft:

  Does the solid side go on the outside of the carb body or towards the
inside.

  I wasn't paying attention when I pulled the old ones out.

  thanks

  Al
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

From acs25m at swbell.net  Tue Feb 19 02:35:54 2008
From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 01:35:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] engine rebuild
Message-ID: <81272.73978.qm@web81601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have a question for the list. What is the best way to get oil pressure up on a newly rebuilt engine. It is a TR250 with a new oil pump,bearings and rings. Assembly lube was generously used in the rebuild. Should I just turn the engine over sans plugs or would I be better off to make a connecting piece and turn the pump with a drill motor?
  John Maneke
  TR250
  CD3025L

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Feb 19 06:41:25 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:41:25 EST
Subject: [TR] engine rebuild
Message-ID: <d2e.167ad710.34ec3685@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/19/2008 3:36:26 AM Central Standard Time, 
acs25m at swbell.net writes: 
> I have a question for the list. What is the best way to get oil pressure up 
> on a newly rebuilt engine. It is a TR250 with a new oil pump,bearings and 
> rings. Assembly lube was generously used in the rebuild. Should I just turn the 
> engine over sans plugs or would I be better off to make a connecting piece 
> and turn the pump with a drill motor?
> 
Maybe I can paraphrase Ted S here.  The best thing to do is to make a drive 
adapter and pull the distributor and prime the lub system with a hand drill.  
Run the drill until you get pressure and see oil coming out of the valve 
rockers.  Then sit down for a few minutes.  Have lunch. Or a beer.  Then do it 
again.  Then wait for another 15 minutes.  Then do it again.

If you have a new camshaft the next thing is to seat the cam and lifters.  
Reinstall the distributor and set the timing.  Prime the carbs and start the 
engine and run it at 2000 - 2500 RPM for 20 minutes.  Shut it down and change the 
oil and filter.

After that it is time to seat the rings.  One school of thought is short 
bursts of heavy throttle (whilst driving) will develop pressure that will force 
the rings into the cylinder walls and seat them more quickly.  Another school of 
thought is 1000 miles of gentle driving.  Sounds like a life style choice.

Good luck

See you tonight.

Dave   

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Tue Feb 19 09:30:05 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:30:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground
References: <005b01c872b5$7bebb0f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<00d401c872be$343c5120$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
	<006901c872ff$bf5eff00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <003401c87314$af1d43d0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Paul,
For some reason I thought you had a TR3...unless yours is not stock, you
should have a mechanical tachometer. The cable that drives the tach is
connected to the dist pedestal.
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: dorpaul
  To: Ibsen Dow
  Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 6:00 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground


  Thanks for your reply!
  I've heard that the tach may require different wiring.
  Paul

  It is not difficult for the change over:
  1. connect your ground from the fire wall to negative side of the
battery...make sure ground terminal has good contact with the firewall
(original) or (ground strap from battery to the engine non-original) if you
prefer
  2. positive side of battery terminal to solenoid
  3. reverse wire terminals to amp gauge from schematic
  I never hooked up an alternator to my TR3A so I let some of the other
listers chime in.
  Sorry you had to go through those initial pains...but it will be worth it.
  My finished TR3A will be done in March or April.
  Just in time for great weather in Las Vegas.
  Ibsen

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Tue Feb 19 10:44:28 2008
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 12:44:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground
In-Reply-To: <005b01c872b5$7bebb0f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <005b01c872b5$7bebb0f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <3E78EB24-A3CC-45F0-89D1-1B678A9F92EE@blakedischer.com>

Hi Paul,

Check out the article in the VTR Maintenance Handbook:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/negative-ground.shtml

Just one of many:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain-index.shtml

The latest "Extend the Driving Season with an Electrically Heated  
Jacket" by Brian Jones (who lives in chilly Pennsylvania!):
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/extendDrivingSeason.pdf  (it's illustrated  
and 3.2 MB so be patient)

Good luck,
Blake Discher




On Feb 19, 2008, at 12:08 AM, dorpaul wrote:

> List,
> Although I have stressed my newly rebuilt engine, mostly by running  
> it too hot
> and too fast, and letting water get in the crankcase (these problems  
> have now
> been fixed), I am now turning my attention back to the rebuilding.   
> One issue
> is the wiring:  IT STILL IS POSITIVE GROUND!  My goal, however, is  
> to convert
> to negative ground.

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Tue Feb 19 11:08:43 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 10:08:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground
References: <005b01c872b5$7bebb0f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<3E78EB24-A3CC-45F0-89D1-1B678A9F92EE@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <005001c87322$766c7200$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Hi Blake,
I was not aware of the VTR Maintenance Handbook. I will have to spend more
time on the website and get a better feel of the services offered to VTR
members.
See you down the road...Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Blake J. Discher
  To: dorpaul ; list Triumph
  Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 9:44 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground


  Hi Paul,

  Check out the article in the VTR Maintenance Handbook:
  http://www.vtr.org/maintain/negative-ground.shtml

  Just one of many:
  http://www.vtr.org/maintain-index.shtml

  The latest "Extend the Driving Season with an Electrically Heated
  Jacket" by Brian Jones (who lives in chilly Pennsylvania!):
  http://www.vtr.org/maintain/extendDrivingSeason.pdf  (it's illustrated
  and 3.2 MB so be patient)

  Good luck,
  Blake Discher




  On Feb 19, 2008, at 12:08 AM, dorpaul wrote:

  > List,
  > Although I have stressed my newly rebuilt engine, mostly by running
  > it too hot
  > and too fast, and letting water get in the crankcase (these problems
  > have now
  > been fixed), I am now turning my attention back to the rebuilding.
  > One issue
  > is the wiring:  IT STILL IS POSITIVE GROUND!  My goal, however, is
  > to convert
  > to negative ground.
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Tue Feb 19 11:16:16 2008
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 13:16:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground
In-Reply-To: <005001c87322$766c7200$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
References: <005b01c872b5$7bebb0f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<3E78EB24-A3CC-45F0-89D1-1B678A9F92EE@blakedischer.com>
	<005001c87322$766c7200$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
Message-ID: <5C8EF486-DCDC-4EA6-A4C3-B95DB8DD5478@blakedischer.com>

Hi Ibsen,

Just so there is no confusion, that Maintenance Handbook is available  
to everyone, members and non-members alike.

Cheers,
Blake




On Feb 19, 2008, at 1:08 PM, Ibsen Dow wrote:

> Hi Blake,
> I was not aware of the VTR Maintenance Handbook. I will have to  
> spend more time on the website and get a better feel of the services  
> offered to VTR members.
> See you down the road...Ibsen

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 19 12:42:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 11:42:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground
In-Reply-To: <005b01c872b5$7bebb0f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <005b01c872b5$7bebb0f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <111701c8732f$9c59b100$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

>     Now that I know that the engine works wouldn't now be the 
> right time to
> convert to neg. ground??

I guess that depends on your goals, Paul.  My goal would be to get it on the
street and drive it ASAP; which means I'd leave the negative ground
conversion for later.  But that's just me.  

Randall

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Tue Feb 19 14:12:42 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 13:12:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild/rear seal
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10802191312x3c0dfe22s73b08ba3b887c2dd@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to all for referring me to Greg Solo in Santa Cruz.
For your general information, he is regrinding the seal to be within 4-6
thousands of the crank, whereas the original is 12/1000 larger than the
crank. He also says that the main problem behind our leaky engines is that
there is inadequate venting of the engine through, in my case, the small
vent in the valve cover that recirculates to the carbs. He says I should
install the draft tube
that existed in earlier engines. Fortunately, my spare engine has one of
these. Finally, he advises that it should not be necessary to drill
additional drain passages in the rear main cap since the pressure has been
relieved with the draft tube.
It occurs to me that venting fumes to the atmosphere is contrary to the
spirit if not the letter of the emmissions rules for these old cars. I
suppose its no worse than taking out the charcoal cannister in the TR6 to
improve performance.
Anyway, Greg says that his reground seal, properly installed, and assuming
good rings and bearings, should reduce the puddle to a drop after a long
day. Now that would be something!
John Howard

From emanteno at comcast.net  Tue Feb 19 14:28:52 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 21:28:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild/rear seal
Message-ID: <021920082128.2253.47BB4A14000DC344000008CD2200763704970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7 at gmail.com> 

> It occurs to me that venting fumes to the atmosphere is contrary to the 
> spirit if not the letter of the emmissions rules for these old cars. I 
> suppose its no worse than taking out the charcoal cannister in the TR6 to 
> improve performance. 

If venting to the atmosphere is unappealing to you, you can always run a hose from the draft tube to a catch tank as road racers do. That way you have adequate venting for the crankcase, and if there is any oil mist, it falls into the catch tank.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Tue Feb 19 16:28:38 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 15:28:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild/rear seal
In-Reply-To: <021920082128.2253.47BB4A14000DC344000008CD2200763704970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <021920082128.2253.47BB4A14000DC344000008CD2200763704970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10802191528r1f06212ek5092d715ad3a8879@mail.gmail.com>

Irv
Very interesting. I'll look into it, and thanks
John

On Feb 19, 2008 1:28 PM, <emanteno at comcast.net> wrote:

>
>
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7 at gmail.com>
>
> > It occurs to me that venting fumes to the atmosphere is contrary to the
> > spirit if not the letter of the emmissions rules for these old cars. I
> > suppose its no worse than taking out the charcoal cannister in the TR6
> to
> > improve performance.
>
>
>
> If venting to the atmosphere is unappealing to you, you can always run a
> hose from the draft tube to a catch tank as road racers do. That way you
> have adequate venting for the crankcase, and if there is any oil mist, it
> falls into the catch tank.
>
>
>
> Irv Korey
>
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
>
> Highland Park, IL

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 19 16:31:59 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 15:31:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild/rear seal
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10802191312x3c0dfe22s73b08ba3b887c2dd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cd09b7f10802191312x3c0dfe22s73b08ba3b887c2dd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <115f01c8734f$9f7d0380$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> It occurs to me that venting fumes to the atmosphere is 
> contrary to the
> spirit if not the letter of the emmissions rules for these old cars.

If that bothers you, you could add a PCV valve to suck fumes from the rocker
cover when there is manifold vacuum (which is most of the time); and bring
the large vent hole in the side of the block out and up to an air filter
with large diameter tubing.  That will give you a proper Positive Crankcase
Ventilation system (which IMO Triumph never did get right).  This is the
configuration used by virtually all American cars.

Under cruise conditions, the fumes are sucked through the valve into the
intake manifold and burned, while the filter admits fresh air into the
crankcase.  Then at WOT (where blowby is maximum but no manifold vacuum and
hence no flow through the PCV valve), the fumes go out the other way,
backwards through the filter into the atmosphere.  But the large diameter
tubing (and hopefully free-flowing filter) prevent pressure buildup in the
crankcase (which I agree is one of the major reasons these engines leak oil,
both at the rear seal and at the rocker cover gasket).  

All this is theory though, I haven't tried it myself yet.  But after reading
up a bit on how much gunk goes into the air from the road draft tube; I will
be adding this to my project TR3.  It should also help the engine last a
little longer, by reducing varnish buildup from condensing blowby, and by
reducing dirt sprayed into the road draft tube by occasional off-road
excursions (both intentional and unintentional).

Likely you will need to disconnect and plug the PCV valve while setting
mixture.

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue Feb 19 16:37:13 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 18:37:13 EST
Subject: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground
Message-ID: <bd1.291d7001.34ecc229@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/19/2008 11:43:57 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

>     Now that I know that the engine works wouldn't  now be the 
> right time to
> convert to neg. ground??

I  guess that depends on your goals, Paul.  My goal would be to get it on  the
street and drive it ASAP; which means I'd leave the negative  ground
conversion for later.  But that's just me.   

Randall


I agree with Randall. I'd keep it simple. Converting to positive  ground  can 
be done later. You are going to likely run into low battery at  some point, 
and your Pertronix won't work on a low battery so I hear. I'd get  everything 
tip-top sorted out, then convert it if it were me.
 
Mike Moore  



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 19 17:34:16 2008
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 19:34:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] throttle shaft bushings
Message-ID: <32993605.65691203467656796.JavaMail.servlet@perfora>

Al,
I assume you're talking about the two shaft bearings that go through the bulkhead. If so, I just went through this with a certain degree of frustration. If you look closely at the bearings, you'll notice that one side is actually wider then the other side. By that I mean the hole opening that the shaft passes through has a tapered opening at one end. That means that the driver side bearing should be installed from inside the car and the passenger side from inside the engine bay. OR... you could do what I ended up doing.....I talked Art Lipp into making Delrin bearings that are a perfect fit and simple to install. You can see them here (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AcceleratorShaft.htm). I tried using the bronze bearings that others suggested and didn't like them for a few reasons, including safety.

Bob



The rubber bushings that go on the Carburetor throttle shaft:

Does the solid side go on the outside of the carb body or towards the inside.

I wasn't paying attention when I pulled the old ones out.

thanks

Al
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Tue Feb 19 19:25:44 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 21:25:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] cleaning, prepping and painting steel TR3/4 wheels
Message-ID: <a11dceec0802191825s2d4362b8p615ea5a64792eff8@mail.gmail.com>

I picked up a set of TR3/4 steel wheels that are in good condition but have
the requisite surface rust for 40 year old wheels.

1) What's the best way to go about bringing them back to life.  Sand
blasting, wire brushing (drill/wire brush) or another method?

2) Is it best to powder coat these wheels or just paint and clear coat them?

Any links to other sites and any advice is much appreciated,

Ted
State College, PA

-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
http://www.triumphowners.com/967

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Feb 19 19:57:14 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 21:57:14 EST
Subject: [TR] engine rebuild
Message-ID: <d3a.1db0bca0.34ecf10a@aol.com>

Run the drill in reverse as the dizzy rotates in a CCW direction.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From BigOldWumper at aol.com  Tue Feb 19 23:46:35 2008
From: BigOldWumper at aol.com (BigOldWumper at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 01:46:35 EST
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Engine_Comparison=E2=80=94TR_4_Cyl_vs=2E_6_Cyl_Eng?=
 =?utf-8?q?ine=3F?=
Message-ID: <d44.21c727e5.34ed26cb@aol.com>

Hopefully this question hasn't already been asked to death over the years...I
haven't been active on the list in eons. I am building a TR4A, and have
considered going the TR250 route and dropping a 6 cylinder in it, either a TR6
2.5L
or possibly a GT6 2.0L. I am trying to determine the relative merits of
Triumph's 4 cylinder "tractor" motor (TR2-4A) versus its later inline 6, both
in
terms of performance *potential* and reliability.

For example, what's the RPM limit/potential of either engine using a stock
(albeit possibly modified; shot- peened, heat treated, etc.) bottom end
(crank,
rods, etc.)? From what I've seen, the availability of performance parts for
either engine is actually quite vast, so that shouldn't be much of an issue,
but
I'd prefer to steer clear of extremely expensive forged rods and billet
cranks. That said, other more moderatly priced performance parts should be
considered in the comparison.

How about compressionbhow much compression can be had with these engines,
through milling the heads, decking the blocks, etc.? Do both engines have
quite a
bit of potential in that regard (octane requirements aside)? And as for
breathingbdoes one engine have a significantly better designed head
(combustion
chamber, ports, as well as intake manifold design, etc.) than the other? I
recall
reading once that Kas Kastner made mention of the GT6 engine being one of the
"sweetest engines [he'd] ever worked with." Liter for liter, cubic inch for
cubic inch, which engine has more power potential? Which engine is sweeter
running? And which engine has the reputation for beingboverallbmore
reliable? Any
insights would be much appreciated.


**************
Ideas to please picky
eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.

(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duf
fy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Feb 20 06:00:47 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 08:00:47 EST
Subject: [TR] engine rebuild
Message-ID: <ccd.2b4be17c.34ed7e7f@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/19/2008 8:57:14 PM Central Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com 
writes: 
> Run the drill in reverse as the dizzy rotates in a CCW direction.  
> 
> 
A very good point.  Note which direction the dizzy turns and turn the pump in 
that direction only.  (Some engines turn CW)

Dave   

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Wed Feb 20 07:49:16 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 09:49:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
Message-ID: <9E7C96EA-0067-4D26-86AB-429F43714EA9@mindspring.com>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170195098537&rd=1#ebayphotohosting

Item number: 170195098537


Ashford Little
GTA Director
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Wed Feb 20 08:14:02 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 10:14:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
References: <9E7C96EA-0067-4D26-86AB-429F43714EA9@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <003e01c873d3$39fffab0$0200a8c0@Desktop>

Gee Ashford......you got all the money Buy it
we all will help you make a mess out of it
Craig
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com>
To: "Triumph List" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6pack Email List" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 9:49 AM
Subject: [TR] Looking for a Triumph Race car?


> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170195098537&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
>
> Item number: 170195098537
>
>
> Ashford Little
> GTA Director
> 6-Pack Membership Secretary
> '70 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Wed Feb 20 08:16:30 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 08:16:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
In-Reply-To: <9E7C96EA-0067-4D26-86AB-429F43714EA9@mindspring.com>
References: <9E7C96EA-0067-4D26-86AB-429F43714EA9@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <38533C8C30E843C98986B6ECDCEB3DA4@GeoPC>

Or..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR4A-Triumph-1967-TR4A-race-car-Hsr-Vintage-TR4-Tr6_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6469QQihZ006QQitemZ160210149156QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Item number: 160210149156


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com>
Subject: [TR] Looking for a Triumph Race car?


> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170195098537&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
>
> Item number: 170195098537 

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Wed Feb 20 08:27:17 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 10:27:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
In-Reply-To: <38533C8C30E843C98986B6ECDCEB3DA4@GeoPC>
References: <9E7C96EA-0067-4D26-86AB-429F43714EA9@mindspring.com>
	<38533C8C30E843C98986B6ECDCEB3DA4@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <5C877F36-A107-4ACE-8D78-DB7EF7EA8DE9@mindspring.com>

I know Barry and that is one nice car!  I just need a little more of  
the essential ingredients... time, money, garage space... maybe some  
more money.


Ashford Little
GTA Director
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Feb 20 08:37:11 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 15:37:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
Message-ID: <022020081537.13088.47BC4927000E3703000033202207001641970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> 

> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK% 
> 3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170195098537&rd=1#ebayphotohosting 

If that amazing Vitesse isn't for you (I have seen it on track, and it IS amazing), and you like red instead of the BRG Barry Rosenberg TR4, my vintage race TR4 is for sale and can be seen at:
www.race-cars.com.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
63 vintage race TR4, looking for a new home
Highland Park, IL

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Feb 20 08:38:37 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 10:38:37 EST
Subject: [TR] Vittesse on EBay   or  TR4  at  http://www.race-cars.com/
Message-ID: <bd0.25a728ac.34eda37d@cs.com>

Triumph Listers

The first time I saw this Kas Kastner Vittesse run, I was astounded. It led 
an all Triumph field of well developed vintage Triumph racers. I thought, 
initially, that SEDANS are just not supposed to be that fast.

I hope someone in the Triumph Community will be able to buy this car and 
bring it out to play. (If it is not sold, there are plans to bring it to Watkins 
Glen in September)
(NFI)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&
sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170195098537&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
Or, more affordable, is Irv Korey's well & thoughtfully developed TR4. What I 
know about this car is that it is fully capable of sub 3:00s at Road America. 
Look at it      

http://www.race-cars.com/ 

This is a true turn key car......buy it now and come to Watkins Glen with us 
in September of 2008.   (NFI)

Joe A       


> 
> 

   </HTML>

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Wed Feb 20 09:12:44 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 08:12:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2221.1203443085.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000c01c873db$6dd0ed60$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

Thanks to all for the help! I guess I just needed to spend MORE time poking
around the TRF site for the right info, you all saved me a lot of time and
guessing! Can't justify paying so much shipping for a few dollars worth of
parts, so I guess I need to add a few things to the order... 
I had a lot of requests for "how to connect" the connecting rod, so I'll do
it and report back. 

Thanks again.

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Wed Feb 20 09:21:05 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 08:21:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild/rear seal
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2307.1203521839.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000d01c873dc$9871bfd0$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

Randall,
I'm wondering if this inadequate ventilation is the reason why my 4a engine
revs increase when I take the oil filler cap off. Long story, but my valves
make a lot of noise and I took the cap off while the engine was running to
see if there was oil being pumped to the head. As soon as I took the cap
off, the engine revs increased about 200-300 rpms. I know the (dare I say)
PVC valve is working and all passages are open to and from it. And I should
mention I rebuild the engine from a bare block (hot tanked, magnafluxed
(sp?), the works) I know all is up to pare.
Has anyone tried this new and improved ventilation? If so, any pictures of
what it looks like??

Brian


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 15:31:59 -0800
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild/rear seal
To: "'Lee&John Howard'" <leejohn7 at gmail.com>, "'triumph list list'"
	<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <115f01c8734f$9f7d0380$6a5636cc at jdnet.deere.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> It occurs to me that venting fumes to the atmosphere is 
> contrary to the
> spirit if not the letter of the emmissions rules for these old cars.

If that bothers you, you could add a PCV valve to suck fumes from the rocker
cover when there is manifold vacuum (which is most of the time); and bring
the large vent hole in the side of the block out and up to an air filter
with large diameter tubing.  That will give you a proper Positive Crankcase
Ventilation system (which IMO Triumph never did get right).  This is the
configuration used by virtually all American cars.

Under cruise conditions, the fumes are sucked through the valve into the
intake manifold and burned, while the filter admits fresh air into the
crankcase.  Then at WOT (where blowby is maximum but no manifold vacuum and
hence no flow through the PCV valve), the fumes go out the other way,
backwards through the filter into the atmosphere.  But the large diameter
tubing (and hopefully free-flowing filter) prevent pressure buildup in the
crankcase (which I agree is one of the major reasons these engines leak oil,
both at the rear seal and at the rocker cover gasket).  

All this is theory though, I haven't tried it myself yet.  But after reading
up a bit on how much gunk goes into the air from the road draft tube; I will
be adding this to my project TR3.  It should also help the engine last a
little longer, by reducing varnish buildup from condensing blowby, and by
reducing dirt sprayed into the road draft tube by occasional off-road
excursions (both intentional and unintentional).

Likely you will need to disconnect and plug the PCV valve while setting
mixture.

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Feb 20 09:40:20 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 16:40:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] cleaning, prepping and painting steel TR3/4 wheels
In-Reply-To: <a11dceec0802191825s2d4362b8p615ea5a64792eff8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a11dceec0802191825s2d4362b8p615ea5a64792eff8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W2A90CA08FF875C85304F6E5230@phx.gbl>

If you take the wheels to a good powder coater they will sand blast them clean
before coating them.  Good powder coating is a great wheel covering and it is
almost indestructible.

Best regards,
Tom

> Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 21:25:44 -0500
> From: triumph66 at gmail.com
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> CC: triumph.tr4a at gmail.com
> Subject: [TR] cleaning, prepping and painting steel TR3/4 wheels
>
> I picked up a set of TR3/4 steel wheels that are in good condition but have
> the requisite surface rust for 40 year old wheels.
>
> 1) What's the best way to go about bringing them back to life.  Sand
> blasting, wire brushing (drill/wire brush) or another method?
>
> 2) Is it best to powder coat these wheels or just paint and clear coat
them?
>
> Any links to other sites and any advice is much appreciated,
>
> Ted
> State College, PA
>
> --
> T.L.L.
> 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
> http://www.triumphowners.com/967
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail.-get your
"fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Wed Feb 20 09:49:17 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 11:49:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] cleaning, prepping and painting steel TR3/4 wheels
In-Reply-To: <001501c87371$67fbe800$ec0c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <a11dceec0802191825s2d4362b8p615ea5a64792eff8@mail.gmail.com>
	<001501c87371$67fbe800$ec0c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0802200849j39fa0fc8hd0ba15c089b1b2ec@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Jerry, Bill, Fred and Tom,

Seems to be good consensus indeed.  I'll get some Black Beauty Fine Grade
Sand to take down to Nittany Powder Coatings in Bellefonte, PA - NFI.

Thanks!!!  Ted

On Tue, Feb 19, 2008 at 10:33 PM, FRED E THOMAS <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Carefull with the sand, it really cuts a lot of metal off also, go to a
> "Tool Rental" and buy "Black Beauty" fine., yes on the powder-coat, one
> time
> for life, you must also clear coat the "Argent Silver" wheel color.  "FT"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ted" <triumph66 at gmail.com>
> To: "TR list" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc: "Theo Liberti" <triumph.tr4a at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 9:25 PM
> Subject: [TR] cleaning, prepping and painting steel TR3/4 wheels
>
>
> >I picked up a set of TR3/4 steel wheels that are in good condition but
> have
> > the requisite surface rust for 40 year old wheels.
> >
> > 1) What's the best way to go about bringing them back to life.  Sand
> > blasting, wire brushing (drill/wire brush) or another method?
> >
> > 2) Is it best to powder coat these wheels or just paint and clear coat
> > them?
> >
> > Any links to other sites and any advice is much appreciated,
> >
> > Ted
> > State College, PA
> >
> > --
> > T.L.L.
> > 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
> > http://www.triumphowners.com/967
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> > http://www.vtr.org
> >
> >
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> >
> > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
>
>


-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
http://www.triumphowners.com/967

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Feb 20 09:49:00 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 16:49:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
Message-ID: <022020081649.25942.47BC59FC0001ABC0000065562207024553970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: lfm614 at aol.com 

> Not like the one that was posted as stolen a while back in a trailer is it? 
Same color, different car. Chuck Arnold's stolen car was a 250 or a 5, not a 4A.
Irv Korey

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Wed Feb 20 09:54:17 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 11:54:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] steel/wire wheel powder coat number
Message-ID: <a11dceec0802200854h36ce3f14rc6c9c0e50742145b@mail.gmail.com>

Dave's powder coaters may have matched the color, or may have provided a
powder coat #??  I'll see what I find out from Nittany Powder works.  I have
cans of Eastwood Argent from my wire wheel resto to use as a match.

On Tue, Feb 5, 2008 at 8:27 AM, Dave Willner <dwillner at ptd.net> wrote:

> I do have both Argent and Detail silver from Eastwood in spray cans. The
> Detail Silver, says "Correct for wire wheels," but swatches look exactly
> the
> same, side by side. I'll follow up with Eastwoods for the Powder numbers.
>
> Thanks to all for the advice and help, appreciate it.
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg, PA
> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> 70 MGB BRG
> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "fred thomas" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
> To: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>; "Dave Willner"
> <dwillner at ptd.net>
> Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
>
> > Blake is 100% correct  "FT"
> >
> ===============================================================================================
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>
> > To: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
> > Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 6:54 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
> >
> >
> >> Fred Thomas may know better, but I believe you want ARGENT SILVER with
> >> a second powdercoat of CLEAR.
> >>
> >> Cheers,
> >> Blake Discher
> >>
> >>
> >> On Feb 4, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Dave Willner wrote:
> >>
> >>> I'm having my wire wheel media blasted and powder coated but can't
> >>> seem to find a perfect color match. I got dizzy Saturday looking at a
> >>> hundred or so swatches outside in the cold. The wheels have the
> original paint
> >>> that looks pretty good rubbed out, a warm metallic silver/grey with a
> hint of
> >>> yellow (not sure if this is weathered clear or not?). Has anyone had
> this done
> >>> and have an excellent match you're happy with that you could help me
> out with?
> >>> Appreciate the help.
> >>>
> >>> Dave Willner
> >>> Stroudsburg, PA
> >>> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> >>> 70 MGB BRG
> >>> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 20 10:02:48 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 09:02:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine rebuild/rear seal
In-Reply-To: <000d01c873dc$9871bfd0$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <20080220170248.VXSV26616.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> I'm wondering if this inadequate ventilation is the reason 
> why my 4a engine revs increase when I take the oil filler cap 
> off.

Yes, exactly.  The stock 4A system tries to pull a partial vacuum on the
crankcase, so when you remove the oil cap, it increases the amount of air
let into the intake manifold, which in turn raises the idle rpm.

Randall

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Feb 20 10:09:18 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 10:09:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 80
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2306.1203521839.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2306.1203521839.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8A4566FB-5375-432E-B088-FCCB66390F6E@telus.net>

Bob
  Do you know if this is the same set=up on the TR4A? Same parts?

Thanks
  Don
On 20-Feb-08, at 8:37 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> Date: February 19, 2008 5:34:16 PM MST (CA)
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> To: <6parts at charter.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] throttle shaft bushings
>
>
> Al,
> I assume you're talking about the two shaft bearings that go  
> through the bulkhead. If so, I just went through this with a  
> certain degree of frustration. If you look closely at the bearings,  
> you'll notice that one side is actually wider then the other side.  
> By that I mean the hole opening that the shaft passes through has a  
> tapered opening at one end. That means that the driver side bearing  
> should be installed from inside the car and the passenger side from  
> inside the engine bay. OR... you could do what I ended up  
> doing.....I talked Art Lipp into making Delrin bearings that are a  
> perfect fit and simple to install. You can see them here (http:// 
> tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AcceleratorShaft.htm). I tried using the  
> bronze bearings that others suggested and didn't like them for a  
> few reasons, including safety.
>
> Bob

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Wed Feb 20 12:30:39 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 14:30:39 EST
Subject: [TR] Engine Comparison?TR 4 Cyl vs. 6 Cyl Engine?
Message-ID: <caf.2b090aa2.34edd9df@aol.com>

Wumper,
FWIW - my brother owned a TR250 and now a TR4A... not sure why, but he says
he likes the 4-banger motor better.. maybe the silky 6-pot is too refined for
such a bolt 'n rattle roadster..
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

Hopefully this question hasn't already been asked to death over the years...I
haven't been active on the list in eons. I am building a TR4A, and have
considered going the TR250 route and dropping a 6 cylinder in it, either a TR6
2.5L or possibly a GT6 2.0L. I am trying to determine the relative merits of
Triumph's 4 cylinder "tractor" motor (TR2-4A) versus its later inline 6, both
interms of performance *potential* and reliability.
**************
Ideas to
please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.

(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy
/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000
002598)

From elangtr4 at aol.com  Wed Feb 20 13:46:35 2008
From: elangtr4 at aol.com (elangtr4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 15:46:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Vitesse on ebay
Message-ID: <8CA4218D137F5C2-162C-110D@webmail-dd05.sysops.aol.com>

I too have seen this car on the track. It was at?Mid-Ohio and I remember being amazed to see this little car carving up the competition. I'll second the motion that it will end up in the hands of someone from the Triumph family and will continue?to run for many years. Anybody from FOT listening?

Eric Langreder 
71 TR6
________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Wed Feb 20 14:23:11 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 16:23:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Vitesse on ebay
In-Reply-To: <8CA4218D137F5C2-162C-110D@webmail-dd05.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CA4218D137F5C2-162C-110D@webmail-dd05.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY109-W384ABC89C8C4608B2F0436A5230@phx.gbl>

> I too have seen this car on the track. It was at?Mid-Ohio and I remember
being amazed to see this little car carving up the competition. I'll second
the motion that it will end up in the hands of someone from the Triumph family
and will continue?to run for many years. Anybody from FOT listening?


Was it 1992? SVRA at Mid-Ohio? 40th anniversary of the TR series. Triumph was
the Featured Marque. I was there, too. And I also remember the Vitesse being
very fast.

FoT is listening.

John H.

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Wed Feb 20 15:10:25 2008
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 11:10:25 +1300
Subject: [TR] Rear Leaf spring dimensions for an early TR4
Message-ID: <001e01c8740d$6678d190$6e01a8c0@athlon>

I have a 1962 TR4, pre the date when they brought out a deaper dish leaf
system with spacers.
I could write a comprehensive article on how not to get your old springs
reset.
I had them reset 1 year ago. There is too much set in both, ie they were
overly tightened and now the axle sits hard up on the chassis, which is why my
car skips around bends.
The spring fixers in Wellington New Zealand are a bit basic and giving the
spring rates means nothing to them, I have to be able to give them an unladen
dimension to work to.
The Bently manual gives Static laden dimensions only.
I can't use spacers as they would be non standard requiring me to get an
expensive engineers compliance cert.
Does anyone have the unladen dimensions?

Jim and the 1962 TR4

From dwillner at ptd.net  Wed Feb 20 15:11:22 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 17:11:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] steel/wire wheel powder coat number
References: <a11dceec0802200854h36ce3f14rc6c9c0e50742145b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c8740d$87956190$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Ted
  To: Dave Willner
  Cc: Blake J. Discher ; fred thomas ; triumphs at autox.team.net ;
mgs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 11:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] steel/wire wheel powder coat number


  Dave's powder coaters may have matched the color, or may have provided a
powder coat #??  I'll see what I find out from Nittany Powder works.  I have
cans of Eastwood Argent from my wire wheel resto to use as a match.


  On Tue, Feb 5, 2008 at 8:27 AM, Dave Willner <dwillner at ptd.net> wrote:

    I do have both Argent and Detail silver from Eastwood in spray cans. The
    Detail Silver, says "Correct for wire wheels," but swatches look exactly
the
    same, side by side. I'll follow up with Eastwoods for the Powder numbers.

    Thanks to all for the advice and help, appreciate it.


    Dave Willner
    Stroudsburg, PA
    59 TR3A Apple Green
    70 MGB BRG
    70 BSA 441 Victor Special


    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "fred thomas" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
    To: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>; "Dave Willner"
    <dwillner at ptd.net>
    Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

    Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:38 PM
    Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number

    > Blake is 100% correct  "FT"
    >
=============================================================================
==================
    > ----- Original Message -----
    > From: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>
    > To: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
    > Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
    > Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 6:54 PM
    > Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
    >
    >
    >> Fred Thomas may know better, but I believe you want ARGENT SILVER with
    >> a second powdercoat of CLEAR.
    >>
    >> Cheers,
    >> Blake Discher
    >>
    >>
    >> On Feb 4, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Dave Willner wrote:
    >>
    >>> I'm having my wire wheel media blasted and powder coated but can't
    >>> seem to find a perfect color match. I got dizzy Saturday looking at a
    >>> hundred or so swatches outside in the cold. The wheels have the
original paint
    >>> that looks pretty good rubbed out, a warm metallic silver/grey with a
hint of
    >>> yellow (not sure if this is weathered clear or not?). Has anyone had
this done
    >>> and have an excellent match you're happy with that you could help me
out with?
    >>> Appreciate the help.
    >>>
    >>> Dave Willner
    >>> Stroudsburg, PA
    >>> 59 TR3A Apple Green
    >>> 70 MGB BRG
    >>> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From dwillner at ptd.net  Wed Feb 20 15:17:30 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 17:17:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] steel/wire wheel powder coat number
References: <a11dceec0802200854h36ce3f14rc6c9c0e50742145b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001701c8740e$63189a20$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

They matched my Argent and Detail Silver swatches I showed them exactly with a
stock powder they had.  I just picked them up yesterday and was really
impressed and dropped them off to have my Dunlops mounted so no pictures yet.
It's amazing how much the clear had yellowed and how "bright" they appear now,
I'm very pleased.  They did also blast the wheels first, so they look very
clean, and I was only charged $65 per wheel which I'm happy about as well.

Dave
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Ted
  To: Dave Willner
  Cc: Blake J. Discher ; fred thomas ; triumphs at autox.team.net ;
mgs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 11:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] steel/wire wheel powder coat number


  Dave's powder coaters may have matched the color, or may have provided a
powder coat #??  I'll see what I find out from Nittany Powder works.  I have
cans of Eastwood Argent from my wire wheel resto to use as a match.


  On Tue, Feb 5, 2008 at 8:27 AM, Dave Willner <dwillner at ptd.net> wrote:

    I do have both Argent and Detail silver from Eastwood in spray cans. The
    Detail Silver, says "Correct for wire wheels," but swatches look exactly
the
    same, side by side. I'll follow up with Eastwoods for the Powder numbers.

    Thanks to all for the advice and help, appreciate it.


    Dave Willner
    Stroudsburg, PA
    59 TR3A Apple Green
    70 MGB BRG
    70 BSA 441 Victor Special


    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "fred thomas" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
    To: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>; "Dave Willner"
    <dwillner at ptd.net>
    Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

    Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:38 PM
    Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number

    > Blake is 100% correct  "FT"
    >
=============================================================================
==================
    > ----- Original Message -----
    > From: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>
    > To: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
    > Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
    > Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 6:54 PM
    > Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
    >
    >
    >> Fred Thomas may know better, but I believe you want ARGENT SILVER with
    >> a second powdercoat of CLEAR.
    >>
    >> Cheers,
    >> Blake Discher
    >>
    >>
    >> On Feb 4, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Dave Willner wrote:
    >>
    >>> I'm having my wire wheel media blasted and powder coated but can't
    >>> seem to find a perfect color match. I got dizzy Saturday looking at a
    >>> hundred or so swatches outside in the cold. The wheels have the
original paint
    >>> that looks pretty good rubbed out, a warm metallic silver/grey with a
hint of
    >>> yellow (not sure if this is weathered clear or not?). Has anyone had
this done
    >>> and have an excellent match you're happy with that you could help me
out with?
    >>> Appreciate the help.
    >>>
    >>> Dave Willner
    >>> Stroudsburg, PA
    >>> 59 TR3A Apple Green
    >>> 70 MGB BRG
    >>> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 20 15:47:42 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 14:47:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] Rear Leaf spring dimensions for an early TR4
In-Reply-To: <001e01c8740d$6678d190$6e01a8c0@athlon>
References: <001e01c8740d$6678d190$6e01a8c0@athlon>
Message-ID: <12d601c87412$9a5f4f70$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Does anyone have the unladen dimensions?

Same as TR3 springs, right ?  For the TR3, the factory manual (or Bentley
reprint) gives static deflection as 4.04", so presumably the free height
should be 4.04" less than the laden height.

And at least on the later 3As, there was a spacer inserted on the
passenger's side, to more nearly level the car when driven without a
passenger.  Seems hard to believe that any inspector would care about the
thickness of the spacer ... or whether there was also one on the driver's
side.

Randall

From team.net at daveola.com  Wed Feb 20 17:06:51 2008
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 16:06:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] time to convert to neg. ground
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2307.1203521839.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2307.1203521839.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E1JRz3P-0004zg-Pi@dave.getdave.com>

Randall:
> I'd leave the negative ground conversion for later.

If we're talking about a TR3 (I lost track of the previous
discussion), then doing the ground conversion is embarassingly
easy and quick.  I wish I'd taken pictures of it for my projects
page, but there isn't much to tell.  The whole thing took about
10 minutew.
 
Mike Moore:
> and your Pertronix won't work on a low battery so I hear.

I haven't had that problem, exactly, and I have had Pertronix
for quite some time (I even have my old Positive Ground Pertronix
Ignition if someone wants to buy it).

Anyways, I had a charging problem and my battery would run down.
The car would start running rough as it was having trouble
sparking, but it still ran until the battery was near dead.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Wed Feb 20 16:42:05 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 16:42:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] steel/wire wheel powder coat number
In-Reply-To: <001701c8740e$63189a20$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
References: <a11dceec0802200854h36ce3f14rc6c9c0e50742145b@mail.gmail.com>
	<001701c8740e$63189a20$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <182B1D3E33E4490A96BA7691BC76A329@GeoPC>

Are these Dunlops going on your TR3A?  What size are they?  I have had 
Dunlops before (SP20?) in 165x15 but have not been able to source them 
lately.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
To: "Ted" <triumph66 at gmail.com>; "Blake J. Discher" 
<bdischer at blakedischer.com>; "fred thomas" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 3:17 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] steel/wire wheel powder coat number


> They matched my Argent and Detail Silver swatches I showed them exactly 
> with a
> stock powder they had.  I just picked them up yesterday and was really
> impressed and dropped them off to have my Dunlops mounted so no pictures 
> yet... 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Feb 20 18:21:40 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 20:21:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector
In-Reply-To: <000c01c873db$6dd0ed60$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <000c01c873db$6dd0ed60$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <200802202021.41615.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 20 February 2008 11:12 am, Brian Induni wrote:
> Thanks to all for the help! I guess I just needed to spend MORE time poking
> around the TRF site for the right info, you all saved me a lot of time and
> guessing! Can't justify paying so much shipping for a few dollars worth of
> parts, so I guess I need to add a few things to the order...
> I had a lot of requests for "how to connect" the connecting rod, so I'll do
> it and report back.
>
> Thanks again.
Brian,

I will be curious to read your "how to connect" instructions.

When I connected my vent last spring all I can remember is there was a lot of 
colorful language used. My blood pressure must have been ready to pop a vein.

I am guessing it should be connected before you install all the gauge cluster, 
wiring harness etc. Well it was the last thing I installed! Mistake??

There is no room to manipulate the rod and get it connected to both the lever 
and the vent!

All I can say is the Triumph workers must have had small hands and a bit more 
patience!

Bob

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Thu Feb 21 08:37:11 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 07:37:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector
References: <000c01c873db$6dd0ed60$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
	<200802202021.41615.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <003601c8749f$a048d950$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Bob,
I just did my scuttle plate assy recently on my TR3A. You are right, you need
patience, however, you do not need to remove the dash in order to insert the
scuttle rod. Good news. However, if you going to replace the rubber grommet
for the rod, you will need to remove the glove box. Bad news. It gives you a
view of the opening hole & allows you to feel with your left hand pushing the
grommet in & your right hand (around to the scuttle plate) to help align with
hole. Make sure the rod is in the hole first w/ the grommet inserted on the
rod, or you will push the grommet out of place with rod after the grommet has
been installed. That was the hardest part for me.
See you down the road... Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Labuz
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 308gtsi at adelphia.net
  Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 5:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Scuttle vent rod connector


  On Wednesday 20 February 2008 11:12 am, Brian Induni wrote:
  > Thanks to all for the help! I guess I just needed to spend MORE time
poking
  > around the TRF site for the right info, you all saved me a lot of time
and
  > guessing! Can't justify paying so much shipping for a few dollars worth
of
  > parts, so I guess I need to add a few things to the order...
  > I had a lot of requests for "how to connect" the connecting rod, so I'll
do
  > it and report back.
  >
  > Thanks again.
  Brian,

  I will be curious to read your "how to connect" instructions.

  When I connected my vent last spring all I can remember is there was a lot
of
  colorful language used. My blood pressure must have been ready to pop a
vein.

  I am guessing it should be connected before you install all the gauge
cluster,
  wiring harness etc. Well it was the last thing I installed! Mistake??

  There is no room to manipulate the rod and get it connected to both the
lever
  and the vent!

  All I can say is the Triumph workers must have had small hands and a bit
more
  patience!

  Bob
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Thu Feb 21 11:11:35 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 10:11:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] [Fot] alternate gearboxes; was Kas Kastner built Vitesse
In-Reply-To: <20080221175507.DEUV19348.fed1rmmtao101.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>
References: <bda.2253fe5c.34eef606@aol.com>
	<8CA42C4BCAAC560-1618-1A68@WEBMAIL-MC05.sysops.aol.com>
	<20080221175507.DEUV19348.fed1rmmtao101.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>
Message-ID: <47BDBED7.9060506@razzolink.com>

David W. Riddle wrote:
> Missed it by one :).  My TR3 has overdrive in ALL four gears.

REALLY!  You need to get it fixed.  It is supposed to have overdrive in 
second, third & fourth ONLY. for a total of 7 forward gear ratios.

Teriann

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Feb 21 11:19:50 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 10:19:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] Lighter
Message-ID: <p06240800c3e3709f588d@[98.224.7.170]>

Hi Folks,
	The new Moss catalog shows an auxiliary lighter for under 
dash mounting.  They give the impression that it is a "period" 
accessory, is it??   I would certainly like one as a "power-point" 
for cell phones, GPS, but would the Judges agree??


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From Harrymague at aol.com  Thu Feb 21 12:13:39 2008
From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 14:13:39 EST
Subject: [TR] Lighter
Message-ID: <d5e.223d1bcd.34ef2763@aol.com>

Hey Bill, what I did for a power source was to buy the console the guy in  
TEN or Ky sells, tapped off the radio power and hid the out let inside the  
console.  Works get and you never know it is there.
FWIW
Harry Mague
 
 
In a message dated 2/21/2008 1:27:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
anabil007 at comcast.net writes:

Hi  Folks,
The new Moss catalog shows an auxiliary lighter for  under 
dash mounting.  They give the impression that it is a "period"  
accessory, is it??   I would certainly like one as a  "power-point" 
for cell phones, GPS, but would the Judges  agree??


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3  TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6  CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace,  CA
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You  are subscribed as  harrymague at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive





**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Feb 21 12:34:41 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 14:34:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lighter
In-Reply-To: <p06240800c3e3709f588d@[98.224.7.170]>
References: <p06240800c3e3709f588d@[98.224.7.170]>
Message-ID: <8CA42D7F07C1207-1618-2331@WEBMAIL-MC05.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill & AnnaBelle <anabil007 at comcast.net>

Hi Folks,
    The new Moss catalog shows an auxiliary lighter for under
dash mounting.  They give the impression that it is a "period"
accessory, is it??   I would certainly like one as a "power-point"
for cell phones, GPS, but would the Judges agree??

==AM==
Sure, why not? At least since 1972, when I bought it (and probably 
dating much further back), my soon-to-be-sold 1960 TR3A has had a Casco 
cigarette lighter in the dash. Very likely it was installed by the 
dealer or by the original owner, in or near where the OD switch would 
go. But then this car also has the supposedly so rare and valuable 
"factory optional" ashtray.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - 
http://webmail.aol.com

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Thu Feb 21 12:50:40 2008
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 11:50:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Lighter
Message-ID: <588950.94800.qm@web81303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

2/21
Had a TR3B for a number of years in the early 70's that had ash tray and cigarette lighter which was located in the lower right hand side of the central gague panel---thru the vinyl "lip" in the corner.  Looked very proper with a small chrome bezel and unobtrusive knob.

Planning & Development Services
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673



----- Original Message ----
From: "zoboherald at aol.com" <zoboherald at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 2:34:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Lighter

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill & AnnaBelle <anabil007 at comcast.net>

Hi Folks,
    The new Moss catalog shows an auxiliary lighter for under
dash mounting.  They give the impression that it is a "period"
accessory, is it??  I would certainly like one as a "power-point"
for cell phones, GPS, but would the Judges agree??

==AM==
Sure, why not? At least since 1972, when I bought it (and probably 
dating much further back), my soon-to-be-sold 1960 TR3A has had a Casco 
cigarette lighter in the dash. Very likely it was installed by the 
dealer or by the original owner, in or near where the OD switch would 
go. But then this car also has the supposedly so rare and valuable 
"factory optional" ashtray.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - 
http://webmail.aol.com
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Feb 21 13:14:38 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 12:14:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] Lighter
In-Reply-To: <588950.94800.qm@web81303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <588950.94800.qm@web81303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <p06240802c3e38ad97e2c@[98.224.7.170]>

Guess I should have been a little more specific ... my concern is for 
the 1970 TR6 (Rosey),  the 1957 TR3 (Casper) is so heavily "upgraded" 
that he could never be considered at a true Concours ... he will 
although, smoke almost anything on a Mountain Rallye ... and finish.
AnnaBelle's Rosey is her Concours car and we are doing our best to 
keep Rosey " as original"...


>2/21
>Had a TR3B for a number of years in the early 70's that had ash tray 
>and cigarette lighter which was located in the lower right hand side 
>of the central gague panel---thru the vinyl "lip" in the corner. 
>Looked very proper with a small chrome bezel and unobtrusive knob.
>
>Planning & Development Services
>A. Daniel Cronin
>248 761-2673
>


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Thu Feb 21 16:22:18 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 16:22:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lighter
In-Reply-To: <p06240800c3e3709f588d@[98.224.7.170]>
References: <p06240800c3e3709f588d@[98.224.7.170]>
Message-ID: <AB20BCB112624EA3A9568324B6B6FDC0@GeoPC>

I added a 'lighter' (no lighter, just a no-smoking dummy plug) as a power 
socket in both TRs.  I used the typical FLAPS version that costs way less 
than $25 and is discreetly mounted somewhere under the dash and above the 
accelerator pedal.

Just be sure that if you do this on a positive gorund car that the case of 
the socket is not grounded and that you get it wired up for the polarity 
many accessories are expecting.  I fashioned a masonite mount to isolate it.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill & AnnaBelle" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 11:19 AM
Subject: [TR] Lighter


> Hi Folks,
> The new Moss catalog shows an auxiliary lighter for under
> dash mounting.  They give the impression that it is a "period"
> accessory, is it??   I would certainly like one as a "power-point"
> for cell phones, GPS, but would the Judges agree?? 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 21 16:55:35 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 15:55:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] Lighter
In-Reply-To: <AB20BCB112624EA3A9568324B6B6FDC0@GeoPC>
References: <p06240800c3e3709f588d@[98.224.7.170]>
	<AB20BCB112624EA3A9568324B6B6FDC0@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <141501c874e5$405b57c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Just be sure that if you do this on a positive gorund car 
> that the case of 
> the socket is not grounded and that you get it wired up for 
> the polarity 
> many accessories are expecting.  I fashioned a masonite mount 
> to isolate it.

Also don't forget to add a fuse !

Although less common these days, I have seen portable 12v devices where some
exposed metal was connected to the negative power input.  For example, I had
a portable CD player where the metal ring around the headphone jack was so
connected; which of course would make it hot relative to the car body (on a
positive ground car).

Some "marine" lighter sockets come with isolation already built into the
mount, plus a handy rubber plug for when they are not in use.

Randall

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Thu Feb 21 17:24:36 2008
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 19:24:36 EST
Subject: [TR] Triumphtransameria Donation
Message-ID: <cd2.29db6475.34ef7044@aol.com>

Our Club met the other night and it was decided that we donate to cause for  
the purchase of the Stag. Were do we send the money (don't even think about  
it. I know who most of you are and I can find out where the rest of you live  
;-)) and can you take PayPal?
 
Sam and Carol Clark 
Green Country Triumphs 
TS45355L  O
CC82030U O
Cell: 918-625-6798



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Feb 21 17:35:40 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 19:35:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lighter
In-Reply-To: <141501c874e5$405b57c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <AB20BCB112624EA3A9568324B6B6FDC0@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <47BDD28C.30690.1BF7234@localhost>

>  I fashioned a masonite mount 
> > to isolate it.
> 
> Also don't forget to add a fuse !

A few years ago I added a lighter plug to the GT6.  Curiously (or 
not), the Spitfire had a factory-installed lighter, the GT6 did not.  
The one I used had a black, all plastic mount and two wires which 
could be hooked up either + or - ground.  Plus it had a little flip-
up cover.  Cost just a few bucks, probably came from some place like 
Autozone.  It won't satisfy the originality judges though because it 
can be seen.

The result was disappointing though.  The GT6 still feels as heavy as 
it did before.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Feb 21 18:48:10 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 20:48:10 EST
Subject: [TR] [Fot] alternate gearboxes; was Kas Kastner built  Vitesse
Message-ID: <c27.2e76e8be.34ef83da@aol.com>

My guess is that there is a 3/4 shift fork on the 1/2 shaft.  The  forward 
dimple on the top of the shift fork is engaging the switch in first  which is 
intended to engaged only in second.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Feb 21 19:14:06 2008
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 21:14:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lighter
In-Reply-To: <47BDD28C.30690.1BF7234@localhost>
References: <AB20BCB112624EA3A9568324B6B6FDC0@GeoPC>
	<141501c874e5$405b57c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<47BDD28C.30690.1BF7234@localhost>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770802211814k74ab607dqe886bfb9d4b87011@mail.gmail.com>

my dual port 12v flaps power is tucked up under the passenger footwell
beside the glovebox.

works well but you have to know where it is....

I forgot about it when I was working in Sweden and the UK for two years.  So
well hidden it took me another year to find it again.... boy did I feel
dumb!!!

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 21 20:01:12 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 21:01:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] hello
Message-ID: <007b01c87500$931250c0$800101df@garage.local>

Doug or Vicki Jensen pleae contact me off list

my apologies to the rest of you

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 21 20:14:32 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 21:14:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] $3,400 collected; $5,900 pledged!!!!
Message-ID: <000801c87501$10024360$800101df@garage.local>

WOW

and thank you all of you.

From stagbytriumph at tscusa.org  Thu Feb 21 20:22:06 2008
From: stagbytriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 20:22:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumphtransameria Donation
In-Reply-To: <cd2.29db6475.34ef7044@aol.com>
References: <cd2.29db6475.34ef7044@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47BE3FDE.10205@tscusa.org>

TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote:
> Our Club met the other night and it was decided that we donate to cause for  
> the purchase of the Stag. Were do we send the money (don't even think about  
> it. I know who most of you are and I can find out where the rest of you live  
> ;-)) and can you take PayPal?
>  
> Sam and Carol Clark 
> Green Country Triumphs 
> TS45355L  O
> CC82030U O
> Cell: 918-625-6798
>
>   
Excellent! 

Thank you Sam & Carol, and the Green Country Triumphs Membership.
No, we can not accept PayPal or credit cards as of yet.   So best method 
is by check at this time.  Besides, it creates a better traceable 
contribution.

I hope more clubs step up as Green Country Triumphs have to assist this 
effort.

Please  visit the website setup by David "Oliver" Northrup of the Red 
River Triumph Club for the pledge and donation information at 
http://www.ranteer.com/misc2
and of course visit the Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive site 
at http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/

I would like to remind those who have pledged, and those wishing to 
donate to please send in your donation ASAP, as the decision has been 
made to purchase the very complete Stag in Illinois as soon as funds are 
available so restoration can begin immediately.

Thanks Again!
Cheers!

Glenn Merrell
TTA 2009 Restoration Coordinator
TSN Admin
TSC USA Chairman (2007-2009)
President (2001-2007)
"The Best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, 
and dead bugs on the windshield!"

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Thu Feb 21 20:45:30 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 19:45:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Main Seal Conversion Diameter
Message-ID: <47BE455A.80201@comcast.net>

I acquired a crank that already had the scroll modified for use with one
of the lip type seal conversion kits. The diameter is 2.567". Both Moss
and BPNW sell kits that require a diameter of 63.5mm (or 2.502"). Does
someone else sell a different kit that user a larger diameter seal or
was this done by mistake? I haven't tried TRF or Victoria British yet.

Searching through old posts, I found that there were some improper
dimension spec's supplied early on. I get the impression that they were
too small rather than too big.

I hate to take the crank in just to have the seal surface reduced by
another .065" so if anyone knows of a kit that matches this, I would
greatly appreciate hearing about it.

Thanks!

Mike

From steven at newellboys.com  Thu Feb 21 22:06:12 2008
From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 22:06:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphtransameria Donation
In-Reply-To: <cd2.29db6475.34ef7044@aol.com>
References: <cd2.29db6475.34ef7044@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47BE5844.1070507@newellboys.com>

TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote:

>Our Club met the other night and it was decided that we donate to cause for  
>the purchase of the Stag...
>
I am an exiled Nigerian ruling family, would like to donate to cause for 
puchase of your veyr good vehicle. I will send JonMac a cashier's check 
for $5000 and you send me a sack of $3000 in cash. Thank you very good.

King Steven Newell
Littleton, Nigeria
'62 TR4 x 2 etc.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Feb 22 07:07:59 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 09:07:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumphtransameria Donation
In-Reply-To: <47BE5844.1070507@newellboys.com>
References: <cd2.29db6475.34ef7044@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47BE90EF.25015.4A7247E@localhost>

On 21 Feb 2008 at 22:06, King Steven Newell wrote:

> I will send JonMac a cashier's check for $5000 and
> you send me a sack of $3000 in cash. Thank you very good.

Dearest one, I kindly believe you may have dropped a few zeros.

If you find them, please send them to me.



-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From drsandner at embarqmail.com  Fri Feb 22 08:07:05 2008
From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 10:07:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] decking
Message-ID: <8F40551037864E24A9201A964518333B@randyPC>

morning vance,
to the uninitiated in engine machining, what is 'decking'?
TIA
randy

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Feb 22 08:54:05 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 08:54:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] decking
References: <8F40551037864E24A9201A964518333B@randyPC>
Message-ID: <001601c8756b$27a47960$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Randy,
I have always used that term to mean the machining down of the engine block
at the top (deck) to increase compression.

Joe C.

----- Original Message ----- 

> morning vance,
> to the uninitiated in engine machining, what is 'decking'?
> TIA
> randy

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Feb 22 08:51:47 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 15:51:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] decking
Message-ID: <022220081551.1470.47BEEF93000BFE4F000005BE22007503309D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

"Decking" is milling flat the top of the engine.  The operation is actually milling, but "milling" to car guys implies work on the cylinder head, so they needed another name for the same operation on the block.

Automotive terms differ from technical machining terms sometimes.  Like "turning" brakes.  Technically, one "faces" brake disks and "bores" brake drums.  "Turning" is done on the outside of an object.  This different jargon is not a problem.  Everybody in the automotive trade knows what "turning" brakes means.


--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "j randolph sandner" <drsandner at embarqmail.com>
> morning vance,
> to the uninitiated in engine machining, what is 'decking'?
> TIA
> randy
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Feb 22 08:58:51 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 10:58:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] decking
In-Reply-To: <8F40551037864E24A9201A964518333B@randyPC>
References: <8F40551037864E24A9201A964518333B@randyPC>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802221034060.29434@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 22 Feb 2008, j randolph sandner wrote:

> morning vance,
> to the uninitiated in engine machining, what is 'decking'?

decking is the process of cutting the BLOCK to optimize the combustion 
chamber volume. In short, you cut the block down so the block to the 
top of the piston at TDC is reduced / eliminated. There are instances in 
the extreme where decking can make the pistons stand clear of the block, 
but we don't want that. On a TR6, using the Kastner suggestions, you 
reduce enough unswept area to gain about .3 of a compression ratio (e.g. a 
head milled to 10.0:1 becomes 10.3:1 when the block is decked.

> TIA
> randy

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Fri Feb 22 09:35:59 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:35:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
Message-ID: <20080222163559.26477.qmail@server306.com>

Obviously a grandmother returning to her British heritage, the sight of a TR6 probably triggered the need to drive on the left ... had the store run out of real beer? (Bass or Sam Smiths would be my recommendation).

**************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Stuart Thompson <stuartt at tlthompson.com>
>  Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
>  Sent: Feb 22 '08 11:27
>  
>  All but one of the 16 oz. plastic bottles of Miller Lite were safely secured
>  behind
>  passenger seat. Aside from a racing heartbeat & a bad case of beer nuts,
>  driver OK.
>  
>  > Quite an exciting story, but you didn't speak to the point that
>  > was tugging
>  > at everyone's heart: In the ensuing high G maneuvers, did the beer stay
>  > in the car?
>  > Oh yeah, I suppose I should ask if you were OK too...



**************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************

From triosan at gmail.com  Fri Feb 22 09:40:59 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 08:40:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 steering shaft to rack connection size
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802220840p7d053176o2bb9fbd544ed4db7@mail.gmail.com>

Am about to replace the stock parts with Borgeson shafts and u-joint.  Does
anyone happen to know the diameter of the shaft and nuber of splines where
the shaft jins the steering box?
Thanks

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Fri Feb 22 09:42:26 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:42:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
Message-ID: <20080222164226.32370.qmail@server306.com>

Thank goodness ... I didn't realize that you buying beer (well, near beer) for your neigbors!  Glad to see the good Samaritan gets to drive another day.

**************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Stuart Thompson <stuartt at tlthompson.com>
>  Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
>  Sent: Feb 22 '08 11:36
>  
>  Both of your recommendations are two of my favorites!
>  
>  
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: <triumph at 2simpleusa.com>
>  To: "Stuart Thompson" <stuartt at tlthompson.com>
>  Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 10:31 AM
>  Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
>  
>  
>  > Obviously a grandmother returning to her British heritage, the sight of a
>  > TR6 probably triggered the need to drive on the left ... had the store run
>  > out of real beer? (Bass or Sam Smiths would be my recommendation).
>  >
>  > **************
>  > Tony Gordon
>  > 72 TR6
>  > **************
>  >
>  >
>  >>  -------Original Message-------
>  >>  From: Stuart Thompson <stuartt at tlthompson.com>
>  >>  Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
>  >>  Sent: Feb 22 '08 11:27
>  >>
>  >>  All but one of the 16 oz. plastic bottles of Miller Lite were safely
>  >> secured
>  >>  behind
>  >>  passenger seat. Aside from a racing heartbeat & a bad case of beer nuts,
>  >>  driver OK.
>  >>
>  >>  > Quite an exciting story, but you didn't speak to the point that
>  >>  > was tugging
>  >>  > at everyone's heart: In the ensuing high G maneuvers, did the beer
>  >> stay
>  >>  > in the car?
>  >>  > Oh yeah, I suppose I should ask if you were OK too...

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Fri Feb 22 11:44:49 2008
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 13:44:49 EST
Subject: [TR] Lighter
Message-ID: <c02.2c66c0f4.34f07221@aol.com>

My wife and I have a '72 TR6 that is a past VTR/6Pack Champion and has the  
lighter that you are talking about.  It is on the passenger side under the  
"glove box".  It has the factory wiring color (white with red as best as I  
recall) and, as best as I can recall, have never had a deduction for it.   Maybe 
Darrell Floyd will weigh in on this.
 
 
Sam and Carol Clark 
Green Country Triumphs 
TS45355L  O
CC82030U O
Cell: 918-625-6798  

 
In a message dated 2/22/2008 8:11:02 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes:

Guess I  should have been a little more specific ... my concern is for 
the 1970 TR6  (Rosey),  the 1957 TR3 (Casper) is so heavily "upgraded" 
that he  could never be considered at a true Concours ... he will 
although, smoke  almost anything on a Mountain Rallye ... and finish.
AnnaBelle's Rosey is  her Concours car and we are doing our best to 
keep Rosey " as  original"...







**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Fri Feb 22 12:26:31 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:26:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] Scuttle vent rod
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1203706800.28631.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <02e401c87588$d46b4120$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

All,

I can't thank you enough for the info on the connector for the scuttle vent
rod to handle for my 4a! Now, as I promised, here's the process on getting
the rascal connected:

First, go get yourself a good rechargeable LED drop light - stays cool and
gives off a ton of light!

Remove the dash support bracket that runs underneath the glove box - 3
screws. 
Remove the glove box - 6 screws. A bit of a tight fit past the heater hoses,
but it fits without destroying anything.
With the glove box door open and the glove box removed, you can see the hole
in the fire wall the rod will pass thru. It's to the left of the wiper box
access cover.
Make sure the rubber grommet is on the rod first, pass the "L" bent end thru
the hole and push the grommet in to place.
Slide the "L" bent end in to the hole in the vent cover hinge right near the
spring.
>From here, I had to bend the rod to fit it in to the connector in the handle
and then bend it straight after install.
Tighten the connector, try it out, and enjoy not having to reach over the
windscreen to open the vent! Kinda tricky going down the highway...
In all, took me about 30 minutes.

Brian

From Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com  Fri Feb 22 12:41:47 2008
From: Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com (Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:41:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] ZS O-ring specs
Message-ID: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF41049098B1@COAST.amr.ch2m.com>

The O-rings on my Z-S 1.75CDs are starting to leak a bit, and I'm
wondering about sourcing them locally to avoid paying $6 shipping on 4
O-rings rings.

Does anyone have the specs on these (and maybe suggested sources)?

Thanks.

Dean Mericas
1965 TR4
1974 2000GTV
Austin, TX

From aribert.neumann at edag-us.com  Fri Feb 22 14:07:58 2008
From: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com (Aribert Neumann)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 16:07:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] OT?  McMaster Carr catalog available, NA residents {Scanned}
Message-ID: <OF91B824EE.1408C0C2-ON852573F7.00719EB6-852573F7.007417EA@edag.de>

Every now and then Randall makes mention that such and such hardware or
specialty tool can be found at McMaster Carr.  This catalog has the most
diverse industrial content that I know of (similar to Graingers but about
750 additional pages).   While they have a fine website, it is not quite
the same as paging thru the catalog.  And you can not get a catalog until
your yearly purchases at McMaster cross a certain threshold.  On a metal
working list that I am on, the reputed figure is about $3,000 per year.   I
get my yearly catalog from my wife who is friends w/ the guys in
Maintenance where she works (and they know of my various projects).  So
each year I get a one year old catalog and then I progressively replace the
older catalogs in my study, work office and workshop.

If  you would like to have my oldest catalog, version 109 (I think 113 is
the current one, so this one is about 4 years old) - it is free for the
cost of shipping - UPS ground from 48036, probably weighs 7 to 10 lbs.

I would strongly prefer that the catalog go to someone who has need for it
and does not have access to one - I remember how precious the first old
McMaster cat. was to me, even though it was about a decade old when I got
it (the P/Ns don't change & Al Gore had yet to invent the internet).  So,
please don't ask for it if you are not involved in fabrication or the like.
And once you have it, and you really like it, you can always send a small
gratuity donation to our list host.

I am in digest mode so if interested, please send me an e-mail at:
aribert at c3net.


-- 
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.

From aribert.neumann at edag-us.com  Fri Feb 22 14:18:22 2008
From: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com (Aribert Neumann)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 16:18:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Anyone using a Pneumatic grease gun {Scanned}
Message-ID: <OFC4908E77.9A14859D-ON852573F7.007418A1-852573F7.00750B8C@edag.de>

I bought a pneumatic grease gun - my old workshop lever grease gun finally
failed from being cross threaded once too often.  This pneumatic grease gun
is a Chinese special from Harbor Freight.  The instructions say that if the
gun does not pump grease to "prime" the gun.  So far, I have not had any
luck priming the gun.  Anyone out there have one of these cheap pneumatic
grease guns?  Did you have a problem getting it to start pumping?  Is this
going to be an issue w/ every change in grease cartridge or is this a one
time problem (if this is going to be an every time problem, I'll go back to
the lever style of gun)?


-- 
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Feb 22 14:30:42 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 14:30:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Anyone using a Pneumatic grease gun {Scanned}
In-Reply-To: <OFC4908E77.9A14859D-ON852573F7.007418A1-852573F7.00750B8C@edag.de>
References: <OFC4908E77.9A14859D-ON852573F7.007418A1-852573F7.00750B8C@edag.de>
Message-ID: <002a01c8759a$2e232e10$6401a8c0@sniffer>

I too bought the cheap HF gun, did not have to prime it and have changed
cartridges once.  No problems to report, maybe you should take it back for
an exchange before it gets too old. 

Good luck,

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
The car is in a 'zillion' pieces... but I think about it every day!




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Aribert Neumann
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 2:18 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Anyone using a Pneumatic grease gun {Scanned}

I bought a pneumatic grease gun - my old workshop lever grease gun finally
failed from being cross threaded once too often.  This pneumatic grease gun
is a Chinese special from Harbor Freight.  The instructions say that if the
gun does not pump grease to "prime" the gun.  So far, I have not had any
luck priming the gun.  Anyone out there have one of these cheap pneumatic
grease guns?  Did you have a problem getting it to start pumping?  Is this
going to be an issue w/ every change in grease cartridge or is this a one
time problem (if this is going to be an every time problem, I'll go back to
the lever style of gun)?


--
This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by
MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 22 15:16:59 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 14:16:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT?  McMaster Carr catalog available,
 NA residents  {Scanned}
In-Reply-To: <OF91B824EE.1408C0C2-ON852573F7.00719EB6-852573F7.007417EA@edag.de>
References: <OF91B824EE.1408C0C2-ON852573F7.00719EB6-852573F7.007417EA@edag.de>
Message-ID: <151301c875a0$a4c12e40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> And you can not get a 
> catalog until
> your yearly purchases at McMaster cross a certain threshold.  
> On a metal
> working list that I am on, the reputed figure is about $3,000 
> per year.  

That's odd.  They gave me a printed catalog when I asked for one, and I
don't think I've ever spent $3000 with them, let alone in one year.  Perhaps
the difference is because I only requested a single catalog, rather than to
be placed on their mailing list ?

But having got it, I didn't find it as useful as the website (IMO).  With a
high-speed connection, you can page through the catalog right on your
computer screen; and the search engine works much better than a printed
index.  I'd offer to give it to anyone that wants it ... but ISTR I threw it
out.

Randall

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Fri Feb 22 15:16:16 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 16:16:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] ZS O-ring specs
Message-ID: <380-2200825222216160@earthlink.net>

Hi dean,

If you are referring to the small o-ring that keeps the oil in the dashpot,
you can get a standard buna-n o-ring. I believe the trade size is 010.


Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN    .


> [Original Message]
> From: <Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/22/2008 1:42:00 PM
> Subject: [TR] ZS O-ring specs
>
> The O-rings on my Z-S 1.75CDs are starting to leak a bit, and I'm
> wondering about sourcing them locally to avoid paying $6 shipping on 4
> O-rings rings.
>
> Does anyone have the specs on these (and maybe suggested sources)?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dean Mericas
> 1965 TR4
> 1974 2000GTV
> Austin, TX
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as ggelhar at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1293 - Release Date:
2/22/2008 9:21 AM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 22 15:22:10 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 14:22:10 -0800
Subject: [TR] ZS O-ring specs
In-Reply-To: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF41049098B1@COAST.amr.ch2m.com>
References: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF41049098B1@COAST.amr.ch2m.com>
Message-ID: <151401c875a1$5df4fc20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Does anyone have the specs on these (and maybe suggested sources)?

I don't recall the size offhand, but it was in the cheap assortment from HF
:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2901
(which is sometimes on sale for even less than $7)

And while I don't know what originals were, I think Buna-N should work fine.
At least it has for me, so far.

Randall

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Feb 22 15:40:39 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 16:40:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] OT?  McMaster Carr catalog available,
 NA residents  {Scanned}
In-Reply-To: <OF91B824EE.1408C0C2-ON852573F7.00719EB6-852573F7.007417EA@
	edag.de>
References: <OF91B824EE.1408C0C2-ON852573F7.00719EB6-852573F7.007417EA@edag.de>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080222163755.0351d4b0@nosimport.com>

At 03:07 PM 2/22/2008, Aribert Neumann wrote:


>If  you would like to have my oldest catalog, version 109 (I think 113 is
>the current one, so this one is about 4 years old) - it is free for the
>cost of shipping - UPS ground from 48036, probably weighs 7 to 10 lbs.
===========
Actually 114 is the latest. I asked them to NOT send me one as the 
online is much easier to use, as Randall said.

The old ones are useful as old Sears catalogs were, in case you get 
caught unprepared.  -;)


Peter C. 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Feb 22 16:50:24 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 18:50:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lighter
In-Reply-To: <47BDD28C.30690.1BF7234@localhost>
References: <AB20BCB112624EA3A9568324B6B6FDC0@GeoPC>
	<47BDD28C.30690.1BF7234@localhost>
Message-ID: <200802221850.25644.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday 21 February 2008 07:35 pm, Jim Muller wrote:
> >  I fashioned a masonite mount
> >
> > > to isolate it.
> >
> > Also don't forget to add a fuse !
>
> A few years ago I added a lighter plug to the GT6.  Curiously (or
> not), the Spitfire had a factory-installed lighter, the GT6 did not.
> The one I used had a black, all plastic mount and two wires which
> could be hooked up either + or - ground.  Plus it had a little flip-
> up cover.  Cost just a few bucks, probably came from some place like
> Autozone.  It won't satisfy the originality judges though because it
> can be seen.
>
> The result was disappointing though.  The GT6 still feels as heavy as
> it did before.
Jim,

That is because you didnt install the magnesium one. Yours is most likely 
steel and brass!

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Feb 22 17:09:58 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 19:09:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] new keys
Message-ID: <200802221909.59327.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Just a little note to say thanks for all the help with my key query.

My new keys just came in the mail from key-men.com and they work just great.

All I had to do is copy the key code off of the ignition switches (3 and 4) 
and order the keys.

George cut the keys to code and now I have my spares.

Now if spring would just come in the mail tomorrow!

Bob

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 22 19:59:33 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 20:59:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] lucas points
Message-ID: <000801c875c8$27f44cd0$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

this part has been around for a while.  does anyone have the reference to tell
me what British car it fits?

thanks!

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb 22 20:14:22 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 20:14:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphtransameria Donation
In-Reply-To: <47BE5844.1070507@newellboys.com>
References: <cd2.29db6475.34ef7044@aol.com> <47BE5844.1070507@newellboys.com>
Message-ID: <47BF8F8E.2040509@tscusa.org>

> TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote:
>> our Club met the other night and it was decided that we donate to cause for  
>> the purchase of the Stag...
>  Steven Newell wrote:  am an exiled Nigerian ruling family, would like to donate to cause for 
> puchase of your veyr good vehicle. I will send JonMac a cashier's check 
> for $5000 and you send me a sack of $3000 in cash. Thank you very good.
>
> King Steven Newell
> Littleton, Nigeria
> '62 TR4 x 2 etc.
>   
So King Steven and Jim,

I expect then that Red River Triumphs can expect both of your kind 
donations in the next week?? 
http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/
BTW, I have not heard anything from RMTC, and John Macartney will be 
passing through Denver

ISOA is needing to get started on the Stag this weekend ...

If you prefer, you can make your donations directly to The Gift from 
Within Charity in Camden, Maine USA
http://www.giftfromwithin.org/

Cheers Gents,
Minister Barrister Solicitor Executor Uffda Stagchair TSCUSA

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 22 22:04:24 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 21:04:24 -0800
Subject: [TR] lucas points
In-Reply-To: <000801c875c8$27f44cd0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <20080223050423.LWKC26616.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
> 
> this part has been around for a while.  does anyone have the 
> reference to tell me what British car it fits?

A whole raft of them; including TR3-6.  Do you need more than that ?

Randall

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Sat Feb 23 06:20:28 2008
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 08:20:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] lucas points
References: <000801c875c8$27f44cd0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <001a01c87623$1003da40$346a33d8@CPQ12949640186>

Those points fit a lot of cars.  Apparently the entire 22D-25D distributor 
series.  Which were in the MGC, the TR6, Jag XKs, Mini, etc.

All gleened through a quick google search of "lucas DTB150"




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 9:59 PM
Subject: [TR] lucas points


> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
>
> this part has been around for a while.  does anyone have the reference to 
> tell
> me what British car it fits?

From dwillner at ptd.net  Sat Feb 23 07:00:37 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 09:00:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] sign on help
Message-ID: <00fd01c87624$7777f6b0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

Can anyone pass along the steps needed to get back on the list again,
apparently a friend "lost" his way and can't navigate and get back on, and I
can't seem to locate the steps for him...Thanks for the help.

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb 23 07:56:12 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 08:56:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] lucas points and "new" 69 tr6
Message-ID: <002801c8762c$3d27b470$cb0b0a0a@garage.local>

thank you to the many who responded.

i do appreciate it.  i'll use them on my 69 tr6 and hope i can get it running.
i have power to the coil, new coil, but as of yet no spark.  replaced coil,
plugs, plug wire, cap, rotor, but didn't have a condenser.  will put those in
and hope to get spark!  and exhaust!!!!!!!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Feb 23 08:04:23 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 07:04:23 -0800
Subject: [TR] sign on help
In-Reply-To: <00fd01c87624$7777f6b0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <20080223150424.QFEB9254.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> Can anyone pass along the steps needed to get back on the 
> list again,

First, you have to notice this link, which is at the bottom of every message
on the list :

> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

Click on the link, type the email address you want into the web page, then
click the 'Subscribe' button.  Wait a few moments, then check your email for
a message from the list manager software.  When you get the message from the
list manager software, open it, click "reply" and "send".

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Feb 23 08:11:05 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 07:11:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] lucas points and "new" 69 tr6
In-Reply-To: <002801c8762c$3d27b470$cb0b0a0a@garage.local>
Message-ID: <20080223151106.VFPT10598.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> will put those in and hope to get spark! 

Remember, the wire goes UNDER the insulator !
And it won't run with the rotor laying on the fender !

Randall "If I had a nickel ..."

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sat Feb 23 08:51:57 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 10:51:57 EST
Subject: [TR] lucas points and "new" 69 tr6
Message-ID: <bdc.24dfe0cc.34f19b1d@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/23/2008 7:11:27 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

Remember, the wire goes UNDER the insulator !
And it won't run with  the rotor laying on the fender !



Ha, ha,ha.........great advice, Randall - many a weekend tune-up have ended  
in frustration and failure over such a simple oversight:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat Feb 23 10:00:07 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 12:00:07 EST
Subject: [TR] Steel Flywheels  TR3/4/6
Message-ID: <be5.26ee321a.34f1ab17@cs.com>

Triumph List,

I am likely going to do one production run of TR3/4 Flywheels, primarily for 
the FOT. 

I have five FOT flywheels (TR4) assigned thus far.

If you have an interest in piggy backing on this production run, please 
contact me.

If you have any concerns about a 10# flywheel being too light for your street 
machine, please contact me on this issue. I have a solution.

Am I serious? 

We have money invested into the engineering of both the TR3/4 flywheels and 
the TR6 later flywheel (short tail)  We have a state of the art CNC machine 
center available five blocks from our garage door and a quote for a production 
run.

Thanks,     N197TR4 at CS.COM

JOE A.   </HTML>

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sat Feb 23 14:17:37 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 16:17:37 EST
Subject: [TR] hello
Message-ID: <c56.2c4e99e4.34f1e771@aol.com>

hello list, i glad to be back . larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Feb 23 15:23:46 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 17:23:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] hello
In-Reply-To: <c56.2c4e99e4.34f1e771@aol.com>
References: <c56.2c4e99e4.34f1e771@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200802231723.47523.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 23 February 2008 04:17 pm, L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> hello list, i glad to be back . larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a
>
>

Larry,

Where have you been???

Bob

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb 23 14:49:03 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 15:49:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive
Message-ID: <000c01c87665$e964c910$800101df@garage.local>

Greetings to all!  I hope you are having a pleasant weekend!

ISOA has decided to purchase the Stag in Indianapolis.  I will be posting
pictures soon.

As such, we will soon be sending them a check with all the proceeds of your
incredibly generous donations.

Those who have not yet sent in your pledge amounts, we would really appreciate
it if you could get it off soon.

Thanks again to each and every one of you.

btw we will continue to accept donations here at the Red River Triumph Club as
long as they keep coming in, and will then forward all proceeds to the Charity
Drive.

From jmitch at snet.net  Sat Feb 23 20:27:51 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 22:27:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Filling the Transmission
Message-ID: <47C0E437.50900@snet.net>

    I drained the oil from my overdrive transmission on the TR6 
tonight.  I had a leaky gasket on the filter cover and I replaced it.  
When refilling, do I just need to fill until oil runs out of the filler 
and I'm done,  or does the overdrive need to be used and the level 
rechecked?  Thanks,   John Mitchell  76 TR6

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Feb 23 21:13:22 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 04:13:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive
Message-ID: <022420080413.10977.47C0EEE2000518BF00002AE122069984999D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> we will continue to accept donations here at the Red River Triumph Club as
> long as they keep coming in, and will then forward all proceeds to the Charity
> Drive.

Thanks for doing this.  A USA central method for handling USA checks is a very valuable asset to the enterprise and you are doing a great service.


--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Feb 23 21:34:49 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 20:34:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] Filling the Transmission
In-Reply-To: <47C0E437.50900@snet.net>
Message-ID: <20080224043449.MWQF17537.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>

> When refilling, do I just need to fill until oil runs out of 
> the filler and I'm done,  or does the overdrive need to be 
> used and the level rechecked?

IMO the level isn't all that critical.  It will drop some as the oil slowly
runs back into the OD, but being a half-pint low won't hurt anything.  So my
suggestion is to just fill it up and put the plug in.

Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Feb 24 07:15:50 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 09:15:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake Assembly Questions
Message-ID: <000601c876ef$c3c94cf0$210110ac@bobspc>

Back from a week in sunny and warm Florida and time to get serious about
having the car back on the road by mid-March! First up is getting the brakes
squared away.

I'll be re-assembling the rear end of the car this week with mostly new
brake components including: braided hose, brake cylinder, Kevlar shoes,
springs, spring clips, spring plate, locking plate, dust cover etc. The
adjuster assembly was removed and cleaned up. My question is...what parts
should be "lubed" during assembly? Anything that has metal to metal contact?
I saw where one person put some lube on the back plate where it came in
contact with the shoes. And what do you recommend for a lube?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1295 - Release Date: 2/23/2008
9:35 PM

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 24 08:01:06 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 09:01:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive
Message-ID: <000a01c876f6$1766e1f0$800101df@garage.local>

I have just updated the website with pictures and a new total of $3,800
collected out of $5,800 pledged.

THE STAG!!! is featured!  Coming soon to a neighborhood near you!!!!  (Well,
in a year of so . . .)

From ebartle at hbci.com  Sun Feb 24 12:23:37 2008
From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 13:23:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] Grade of Gasoline
Message-ID: <004b01c8771a$c15f9160$441eb420$@com>

I am about to finish my restoration on my 59 TR3A.  I am curious as to what
octane grade of gasoline to use in the car. When I had the engine rebuilt
they made a change to the valves to accommodate unleaded gasoline.  Any
information would be appreciated.

Eric Bartleson

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sun Feb 24 12:48:21 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:48:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Grade of Gasoline
In-Reply-To: <004b01c8771a$c15f9160$441eb420$@com>
References: <004b01c8771a$c15f9160$441eb420$@com>
Message-ID: <BAY109-W12CD2BE1336C90F8D2F082A51F0@phx.gbl>

> I am about to finish my restoration on my 59 TR3A. I am curious as to what>
octane grade of gasoline to use in the car. When I had the engine rebuilt>
they made a change to the valves to accommodate unleaded gasoline. Any>
information would be appreciated.> > Eric Bartleson


I use 91 or 92 octane and don't hear any detonation.

John H.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Feb 24 13:18:19 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:18:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] solenoid or starter?
Message-ID: <47C18ABB.10943.1046EAC6@localhost>

Today being a nice day here in the upper right corner of the country, 
I tried to fire up the Spitfire.  No go.   So I hooked up my faithful 
portable starter battery.  Just a very slow whirr--wrr--wrr.  Not 
even close to being fast enough to fire.  My neighbor happened to be 
watching so he grabbed his portable starter battery.  Still nothing 
but a very slow whir--wrr--wrr.  So I cleaned up the terminals on the 
solenoid, the starter, the bell housing, and the chassis.  Actually, 
there is a line directly from the battery ground to the chassis and 
another from the battery ground to the bell housing.  Still no go.

This behavior has been coming on for several years, the starter 
seeming to have less and less oomph at turning the engine against the 
compression.  Something, either the wiring or the solenoid or the 
starter motor, is eating up all the juice.  Or, more techncially 
preventing any from getting through.  The wiring is easy to replace.  
Solenoids and starters cost money though.  So I'm open to 
suggestions.  Is there historical precedent (well, we are in the 
midst of a pecedential campaign, are we not?) for starters getting 
weaker?  Or solenoid terminals to crude up such that it still closes 
and the starter still turns but just has too much resistance?

Tanks,

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From pbaize at satx.rr.com  Sun Feb 24 13:28:27 2008
From: pbaize at satx.rr.com (Patrick Baize)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:28:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] [Spits] solenoid or starter?
References: <47C18ABB.10943.1046EAC6@localhost>
Message-ID: <000601c87723$d03082e0$6600a8c0@trixi>

Probably the starter, had the same problem with my 68 C10, slow turning 
while cranking, put in a new starter, what a difference

Patrick
63 Spitfire
74 Spitfire
71 Stag
68 C10


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: "triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 2:18 PM
Subject: [Spits] solenoid or starter?


> Today being a nice day here in the upper right corner of the country,
> I tried to fire up the Spitfire.  No go.   So I hooked up my faithful
> portable starter battery.  Just a very slow whirr--wrr--wrr.  Not
> even close to being fast enough to fire.  My neighbor happened to be
> watching so he grabbed his portable starter battery.  Still nothing
> but a very slow whir--wrr--wrr.  So I cleaned up the terminals on the
> solenoid, the starter, the bell housing, and the chassis.  Actually,
> there is a line directly from the battery ground to the chassis and
> another from the battery ground to the bell housing.  Still no go.
>
> This behavior has been coming on for several years, the starter
> seeming to have less and less oomph at turning the engine against the
> compression.  Something, either the wiring or the solenoid or the
> starter motor, is eating up all the juice.  Or, more techncially
> preventing any from getting through.  The wiring is easy to replace.
> Solenoids and starters cost money though.  So I'm open to
> suggestions.  Is there historical precedent (well, we are in the
> midst of a pecedential campaign, are we not?) for starters getting
> weaker?  Or solenoid terminals to crude up such that it still closes
> and the starter still turns but just has too much resistance?
>
> Tanks,
>
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Feb 24 14:00:52 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:00:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] solenoid or starter?
In-Reply-To: <47C18ABB.10943.1046EAC6@localhost>
References: <47C18ABB.10943.1046EAC6@localhost>
Message-ID: <20080224210054.GFWP17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 03:18 PM 2/24/2008, Jim Muller wrote:

>This behavior has been coming on for several years, the starter
>seeming to have less and less oomph at turning the engine against the
>compression.

Can the starter be tested out of the car?  If it still drags, then 
you've eliminated everything else.  I'd then look at brushes or 
similar.  I think these things are pretty robust, absent a bad 
bearing they ought to be easily repaired or rebuilt at home...



Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/
Athens, Georgia         #354 


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1295 - Release Date: 2/23/2008 9:35 PM

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 24 14:38:32 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:38:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive
Message-ID: <002801c8772d$e7147390$800101df@garage.local>

sorry - http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com  Sun Feb 24 15:03:53 2008
From: Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com (Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:03:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] ZS O-ring specs
In-Reply-To: <151401c875a1$5df4fc20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF41049098B1@COAST.amr.ch2m.com>
	<151401c875a1$5df4fc20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF4104931AF0@COAST.amr.ch2m.com>

Thanks.

I was hoping to get details on the sizes so I can just purchase a few as
needed.

If no one else comes up with the specs, I'll guess I'll just default to
the HF life-time supply route.

Dean

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com]
> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 4:22 PM
> To: Mericas, Dean/AUS; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [TR] ZS O-ring specs
>
>
> > Does anyone have the specs on these (and maybe suggested sources)?
>
> I don't recall the size offhand, but it was in the cheap
> assortment from HF
> :
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2901
> (which is sometimes on sale for even less than $7)
>
> And while I don't know what originals were, I think Buna-N
> should work fine.
> At least it has for me, so far.
>
> Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 24 15:44:51 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:44:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] Brake Assembly Questions
In-Reply-To: <000601c876ef$c3c94cf0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <20080224224451.KCEO9254.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> My question is...what parts should be 
> "lubed" during assembly? Anything that has metal to metal contact?

I put just a touch of grease where the shoes touch the backplate; and some
"dry moly" where the cylinder & it's clips touch the backplate.  Adjuster
screw gets anti-seize, adjuster pistons & wedge get grease.  But nothing on
the shoe ends where they touch the cylinder and adjuster.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 24 16:06:45 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:06:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] solenoid or starter?
In-Reply-To: <47C18ABB.10943.1046EAC6@localhost>
Message-ID: <20080224230645.UGAW4595.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> Is there historical precedent (well, we are in 
> the midst of a pecedential campaign, are we not?) for 
> starters getting weaker?  Or solenoid terminals to crude up 
> such that it still closes and the starter still turns but 
> just has too much resistance?

Unfortunately yes, on both counts.  And telling the difference for certain
can be tricky without the ability to measure how much current the starter is
drawing.  But as noted, usually the problem becomes very obvious once you
disassemble the starter and examine it.

I would start by cranking for a bit then immediately feeling along the
battery cables, plus the solenoid and cable from solenoid to starter (if
separate on a Spit).  If you don't find an obvious hot spot (indicating a
high resistance at that point), then pull and disassemble the starter.

Last time I went through this on the TR3A, it turned out that one of the
brush leads inside the starter had gotten loose and was being cut through by
the armature.  More recently, a Stag starter proved to have a segment
missing from the commutator and a broken brush lead.  Both would still kind
of turn the engine, but sucked way more current than they should and turned
very slowly.  You can also get similar symptoms from a worn bearing that
allows the armature to drag on the pole pieces (so look for signs of
rubbing).

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 24 16:12:41 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:12:41 -0800
Subject: [TR] Grade of Gasoline
In-Reply-To: <004b01c8771a$c15f9160$441eb420$@com>
Message-ID: <20080224231241.UZHL10598.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> When I had the engine rebuilt they made a change to the 
> valves to accommodate unleaded gasoline.

So it's stock otherwise (83mm liners) ?  Then regular unleaded should do.
If you've converted to the popular 87mm liners, it would likely be happier
with premium (though you might still get by with regular).  Most other
modifications (like shaving the head) will likely require premium.

Either way, be sure to check the spark advance by the method given in the
book.  Full throttle at low rpm in 4th gear and adjust so you can just
barely hear the knock.  Personally I like to back off 2 degrees from that
point, but the book doesn't say to back off.

Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Feb 24 16:15:48 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 23:15:48 -0000
Subject: [TR] Brake Assembly Questions
References: <20080224224451.KCEO9254.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <002601c8773b$317e0f60$0201a8c0@Bevan>

>> My question is...what parts should be
>> "lubed" during assembly? Anything that has metal to metal contact?
>
> I put just a touch of grease where the shoes touch the backplate; and some
> "dry moly" where the cylinder & it's clips touch the backplate.  Adjuster
> screw gets anti-seize, adjuster pistons & wedge get grease.  But nothing on
> the shoe ends where they touch the cylinder and adjuster.

Randall's advice as always, is excellent. However, I'd just add that IMHO *a touch* of grease should 
ideally read *a touch of high melting point grease* might be better? We don't know what ambient 
conditions this car operates in and HMP is the only grease I've ever used in my brakes in chilly old 
UK. Don;t like to think of any kind of lubricant getting out of control in the "stop" department of 
my car :)

Jonmac 

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sun Feb 24 16:16:22 2008
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:16:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] solenoid or starter?
References: <20080224230645.UGAW4595.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <00e301c8773b$6806a1a0$8701a8c0@Dell>

So why not eliminate the solenoid as the source of the problem first by 
shorting it out with a screwdriver, pliers, or jumper cable? It's a lot 
easier than pulling the starter apart. Well, easier than putting it back 
together anyway. Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] solenoid or starter?


>> Is there historical precedent (well, we are in
>> the midst of a pecedential campaign, are we not?) for
>> starters getting weaker?  Or solenoid terminals to crude up
>> such that it still closes and the starter still turns but
>> just has too much resistance?
>
> Unfortunately yes, on both counts.  And telling the difference for certain
> can be tricky without the ability to measure how much current the starter 
> is
> drawing.  But as noted, usually the problem becomes very obvious once you
> disassemble the starter and examine it.
>
> I would start by cranking for a bit then immediately feeling along the
> battery cables, plus the solenoid and cable from solenoid to starter (if
> separate on a Spit).  If you don't find an obvious hot spot (indicating a
> high resistance at that point), then pull and disassemble the starter.
>
> Last time I went through this on the TR3A, it turned out that one of the
> brush leads inside the starter had gotten loose and was being cut through 
> by
> the armature.  More recently, a Stag starter proved to have a segment
> missing from the commutator and a broken brush lead.  Both would still 
> kind
> of turn the engine, but sucked way more current than they should and 
> turned
> very slowly.  You can also get similar symptoms from a worn bearing that
> allows the armature to drag on the pole pieces (so look for signs of
> rubbing).
>
> Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 24 16:36:46 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:36:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] Brake Assembly Questions
In-Reply-To: <002601c8773b$317e0f60$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <20080224233646.NIGZ17537.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>

> However, I'd just 
> add that IMHO *a touch* of grease should ideally read *a 
> touch of high melting point grease* might be better? We don't 
> know what ambient conditions this car operates in and HMP is 
> the only grease I've ever used in my brakes in chilly old UK. 

Certainly no argument from me ... just didn't think to mention it as what I
use for 'ordinary' grease is rated to something like 400F, which I think is
plenty.  The face of the shoes can get hotter than that, but IMO the backing
plate should not.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 24 16:42:43 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:42:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] solenoid or starter?
In-Reply-To: <00e301c8773b$6806a1a0$8701a8c0@Dell>
Message-ID: <20080224234244.VYPG10598.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> So why not eliminate the solenoid as the source of the 
> problem first by shorting it out with a screwdriver, pliers, 
> or jumper cable?

IMO, because that can give a false impression.  Screwdrives and pliers are
made of steel, which doesn't conduct as well as copper.  And jumper cables
don't always make good contact with small diameter items, like posts or
cable terminals.

Plus if it is a bad starter drawing too much current, the high current
combined with the features above can actually cause further damage.  BTDT.

Randall

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Sun Feb 24 17:24:02 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 19:24:02 EST
Subject: [TR] Brake Assembly Questions
Message-ID: <bd0.260fda44.34f364a2@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/24/2008 5:45:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

> My  question is...what parts should be 
> "lubed" during assembly? Anything  that has metal to metal contact?

I put just a touch of grease where the  shoes touch the backplate; and some
"dry moly" where the cylinder &  it's clips touch the backplate.  Adjuster
screw gets anti-seize,  adjuster pistons & wedge get grease.  But nothing on
the shoe ends  where they touch the cylinder and adjuster.



==AM==
I'll pretty much go along with this. Personally, I've always used white  
lithium grease (I still have half of the can I bought over 30 years ago!) where  
needed. Mostly where I've found it was "needed" was on any/all parts of the  
adjuster, and on the backing plate and wheel cylinder surfaces that contact  
same, so that it will slide properly (which it must be able to do), and wherever  
the handbrake lever pivot points might be (wheel cylinder and clevis pin or  
other connection to the cable). But that's about it. I've never seen any  
particular benefit to lubing the shoe ends...or even where the shoes touch the  
backplate. But that's me.... ;-)  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Feb 24 18:23:20 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 01:23:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] Brake Assembly Questions
Message-ID: <022520080123.16032.47C21888000108EE00003EA022165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

> > My question is...what parts should be 
> > "lubed" during assembly? Anything that has metal to metal contact? 

Have read all postings with interest.  Must have spent my life overly paranoid, but have made sure my brake parts were squeaky clean, but never added lube for fear of break contaminating the lube points and leaving me worse off than before.  No???
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Sun Feb 24 20:05:17 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 22:05:17 EST
Subject: [TR] Brake Assembly Questions
Message-ID: <cac.2986efa8.34f38a6d@aol.com>

Hi Andy,
I would recommend some sort of carefully applied grease to rear brake 
shoe-seats. You should see my worn-out original TR4 brake backing plates! The brake 
shoe 'rests' are quite worn down.. counter-intuitive to lubing them when 
reshoeing, I always left them clean. Excessive wear in these seats resulted in an 
'un-square' orientation to the drum surface when shoes at rest - this required 
over-compensating the adjusters to clear the crooked shoes from rubbing the 
drums, and in turn, added to my 'pedal travel' to get them back up against the 
drum-face when braking. Ok, maybe 15 thousandths of added shoe clearance only 
creates 1/8 inch more pedal travel - mostly I didn't like struggling with the 
adjusters to MINIMIZE drum gap with CROOKEDY shoes!
It took at least a year to find 2 replacement TR4 backing plates with better 
seats (thanks Joe A) so now I have purchased some CRC 'Brake Lube' (two 1/4oz 
squeeze tubes per card) for about $4 at a well stocked auto shop. This package 
recommends lubing the shoe seats and other 'wear points' ie; springs, 
linkages, parking bits, etc. 
This CRC brake grease smells/looks just like old fashioned translucent 
orange/yellow type of grease - not sure if high temp or not. 
Backing plates can wear out of spec, and good replacement plates are really 
hard to find, so I'll be adding a dab of grease to my shoe-seats, here on out.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

==AM==
I'll pretty much go along with this. Personally, I've always used white  
lithium grease (I still have half of the can I bought over 30 years ago!) 
where  
needed. Mostly where I've found it was "needed" was on any/all parts of the  
adjuster, and on the backing plate and wheel cylinder surfaces that contact  
same, so that it will slide properly (which it must be able to do), and 
wherever  
the handbrake lever pivot points might be (wheel cylinder and clevis pin or  
other connection to the cable). But that's about it. I've never seen any  
particular benefit to lubing the shoe ends...or even where the shoes touch the
  
backplate. But that's me.... ;-)  
--Andy   Mace<BR><BR><BR>**************<BR>Ideas to please picky eaters. 
Watch video on AOL Living.<BR>      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)</HTML>

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Feb 24 21:02:03 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 21:02:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] John Macartney Charity 2009 Drive- Stag Restoration - update
In-Reply-To: <005201c866e4$1667b0d0$800101df@garage.local>
References: <005201c866e4$1667b0d0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <47C23DBB.1060300@tscusa.org>

Hello All,

We have selected the Stag that will be the subject of the full concours 
restoration, and it will be prepared by the Illinois Sports Owners 
Association and Triumph Stag Club USA members, beginning in about 2 
weeks.  Currently about 51 individuals and US Triumph Clubs have kicked 
in to purchase the car and begin the restoration, and the list of 
pledges is growing.  http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/
Please, if you can help support this effort, we would love to add your 
pledge to the growing list.  If in the UK, contact John Macartney for 
donations standardtriumph at btinternet.com

Within a few weekends, the disassembly should commence toward a full 
restoration. Photos of the progress and restoration teams will be 
available on the TTA web site at regular intervals.

As this restoration progresses, I will be asking for continued help from 
various suppliers, services, groups and individuals.  My hope is that 
enough donations will be received to completely restore this Stag 
without the need for the main charity to have to use some of its funds 
that would otherwise go to charity.

However, at this time I am looking for the parts for a Tate & Lewis 
conversion ZF 4 or 5 speed Automatic - for the Triumph Trans AmeriCan 
2009 Charity Drive Stag that will be driven by John Macartney for 10,000 
miles around North America. http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/

Does anyone have contacts to purchase the parts needed for a ZF 
conversion, maybe someone would be so kind as to contact Tate & Lewis or 
Jonathan Finnis at Monarch directly to see if they will help support 
this cause somehow?
The car we picked out is a BW35 and I really do not want to send John 
off on a 10k mile drive around North America in a BW35 Stag driving our 
interstate highways at 4000 rpm.

My first option - request - is to have someone or a group donate or 
purchase the ZF conversion parts for the car.
Second option would be to purchase the conversion parts and source the 
ZF here in the USA.
Our fall back is to convert to a 4 speed with J type OD, but we would 
still need to source all the parts for that conversion.

So if anyone here can make inquiries and introductions to willing donors 
in this regard, myself, John Macartney, and the Charities benefiting 
from this Drive will greatly appreciate the efforts.

Thanks!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 24 21:48:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 20:48:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] Brake Assembly Questions
In-Reply-To: <bd0.260fda44.34f364a2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080225044851.UVKN9254.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> I've never seen any 
> particular benefit to lubing the shoe ends...or even where 
> the shoes touch the backplate.

As someone else mentioned, I've seen some backplates that were significantly
worn where the shoes rest on them.

I also once had the pleasure of owning a TR3A with the adjustable shoe posts
(10" Girling) that made an odd but rather loud 'clunk' every time I took off
from a stop sign.  Took me a long time to realize that the posts were worn
until the pads were no longer square with the drums ... the clunk was the
shoes falling back onto the posts as the brakes released.  Specifically it
took until the shoes wore out on one edge first ...

Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb 25 06:49:51 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 08:49:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Crankshaft Question
Message-ID: <000601c877b5$4d49d790$210110ac@bobspc>

Folks,
Part of Herman's 5 Speed conversion kit includes a bronze pilot bushing that
goes into the hole on the end of the crankshaft on the flywheel side.
However, Herman's stock bushing doesn't fit my crank. We spoke last night on
the phone and I sent him a  picture
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Crankshaft.htm) with measurements so he can
make me a new bushing. I know that there were 2 different crankshafts for
early vs late TR6's and it also looks like the Pilot Bushing on the '70-'76
TR6 was in the flywheel and not in the crankshaft. My Pilot Bushing is in
the flywheel. TRF shows a short type bushing ('70-'76) and a long type
bushing ('68-'70). My engine block is CF38133UE and I know the previous
owner had the engine rebuilt a few years before I bought the car but I have
no idea what he put in the block. 

So does anyone have access to the end of their crank to take a few
measurements like I show in the picture at the link above? It would help me
and I know it would help Herman. I'd also be interested to know if the Pilot
Bushing is in the crank or the flywheel for your year TR6.

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
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12:19 PM

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Mon Feb 25 07:20:10 2008
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 09:20:10 EST
Subject: [TR] John Macartney Charity 2009 Drive- Stag Restoration -
 update
Message-ID: <c75.277cfbcb.34f4289a@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/24/08 11:05:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes:

<< However, at this time I am looking for the parts for a Tate & Lewis   conver
sion ZF 4 or 5 speed Automatic - >>

It would be helpful to know what specific ZF model trans is needed and what
cars it is typically found in.

Harold
**************
Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.

(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy
/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Mon Feb 25 07:21:14 2008
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 09:21:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] solenoid or starter?
In-Reply-To: <20080224234244.VYPG10598.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>
References: <00e301c8773b$6806a1a0$8701a8c0@Dell>
	<20080224234244.VYPG10598.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770802250621u140b019dq67a5b24f9aafa0ad@mail.gmail.com>

I had the really slow turning starter as well - one of my brush holders had
a broken spring.
Apparenly with one brush the starter still had a bit of power - with a
totally fresh battery it would turn enough to start.

Huge difference once the brushes were replaced and the spring was fixed...

my only experience with this one....

Chris

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Feb 25 07:54:31 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 09:54:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake Assembly Questions
In-Reply-To: <20080225044851.UVKN9254.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <8CA45D57620FA08-E2C-2FD8@MBLK-M34.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>

> I've never seen any
> particular benefit to lubing the shoe ends...or even where
> the shoes touch the backplate.

As someone else mentioned, I've seen some backplates that were 
significantly
worn where the shoes rest on them.

I also once had the pleasure of owning a TR3A with the adjustable shoe 
posts
(10" Girling) that made an odd but rather loud 'clunk' every time I 
took off
 from a stop sign.  Took me a long time to realize that the posts were 
worn
until the pads were no longer square with the drums ... the clunk was 
the
shoes falling back onto the posts as the brakes released.  Specifically 
it
took until the shoes wore out on one edge first ...

==AM==
I concede...but then, 98% of my experience has been with the 
Herald-based cars. Perhaps this is more of a problem on the larger 
Girling brakes found on TRs?

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - 
http://webmail.aol.com

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Mon Feb 25 10:48:17 2008
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:48:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Crankshaft Question
In-Reply-To: <d08.2bfe18e2.34f42460@aol.com>
References: <d08.2bfe18e2.34f42460@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48AEF7677DA84B4AB57EC06E6F864C0B@marcydesk>

Bob,

I had the same problem but I was installing the W58 along with a Fidanza 
alum flywheel. I ended up shipping my flywheel to Herman & he machined a 
pilot bushing that pushed in to the crank bore. I can send you pics if you 
need. Ask Herman about the bushing he made for Mitch Seff. Contact me if you 
need more info.



Mitch Seff

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb 25 11:02:42 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 10:02:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] Brake Assembly Questions
In-Reply-To: <8CA45D57620FA08-E2C-2FD8@MBLK-M34.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20080225044851.UVKN9254.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>
	<8CA45D57620FA08-E2C-2FD8@MBLK-M34.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1b3001c877d8$9dbed630$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> ==AM==
> I concede...

Nothing to concede, Andy, your experiences are different than mine, that's
all.  Possibly your cars haven't been as decrepit as mine ... well, at least
not in terms of number of times around the clock (odometer) <G>

Randall

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon Feb 25 11:45:01 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 10:45:01 -0800
Subject: [TR] Weber DCOE fuel inlet parts
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802251045u549e9a7bldf7872b71b803dc8@mail.gmail.com>

I have a set of triple Weber DCOEs.  The fiber/cotton?? washers surrounding
the banjo bolts on the fuel inlets have deteriorated to the point they
leak.  I cannot find replacement parts.  The outer one is 15mm, but crush
washers come only in14 [too small] and 16 [too big].  The Carb supplier I
usually use says they are not available.  Does any one have a source?

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb 25 12:15:07 2008
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 11:15:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] Weber DCOE fuel inlet parts
References: <8cbd782d0802251045u549e9a7bldf7872b71b803dc8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005501c877e2$bce6dda0$210110ac@MIKESDELL>

There are probably lots of places you could get these washers but Pierce 
Manifold in Gilroy California will have them... 
http://www.piercemanifolds.com. They are the largest distributor of Weber 
carburetors in the USA. NFI etc.
Mike Denman

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
To: "Friends" <fot at autox.team.net>; "Triumph" <6pack at autox.team.net>; 
"Triumph Email List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:45 AM
Subject: [TR] Weber DCOE fuel inlet parts


>I have a set of triple Weber DCOEs.  The fiber/cotton?? washers surrounding
> the banjo bolts on the fuel inlets have deteriorated to the point they
> leak.  I cannot find replacement parts.  The outer one is 15mm, but crush
> washers come only in14 [too small] and 16 [too big].  The Carb supplier I
> usually use says they are not available.  Does any one have a source?
>
> -- 
> Chuck Arnold
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb 25 15:19:26 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 17:19:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles
In-Reply-To: <592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net>
	<592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc>

Great news.........the Buckeye articles are some of the best available! 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Todd Bermudez
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 4:46 PM
To: Six Pack
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles

Hi All,

Just got an e-mail from Bruce Miles regarding the tech articles...they're
baaaaacccckkkkk!!!!

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

Cheers,

Todd



 
____________________________________________________________________________
________
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know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
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You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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12:19 PM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb 25 16:30:00 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 15:30:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles
In-Reply-To: <000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

Kudos to whoever persuaded Nelson to let these be put back up (without his
name) !

And Thank You Bob, for posting the info to the TR list.

You might relay one minor correction back to whoever maintains the Buckeye
site : 
On
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm
the link to the Chicago MG clubs article on brake fluid is outdated.  They
have moved the article to
http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/general/525b.html

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Feb 25 17:23:04 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 19:23:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 starter part
Message-ID: <200802251923.04702.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

Well I am working on my yearly winter project of restoring some of my parts 
collection and since I just completed a TR4 figured I should try to see what 
starter parts I have and if I can make a spare or 2.

Well I seem to have the parts for about 3 spares! Good news but I would like 
to replace that little spring that is used to return the starter pinion.

The ones I have are quite rusty and one even broke.

Well Moss does not stock the part. Same with Victoria Brit.

TRF lists the part but at a cost of over 54$. Yes that is correct 54$ for a 
spring that weighs less than a penny!

Does anyone know of a source for this spring? but for less than 54 bucks?

The Triumph part # is 70062 and can be found as item # AB24 on page 62 of the 
TR4 parts manual.

Thanks

Bob

From m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca  Mon Feb 25 17:00:41 2008
From: m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca (Mo and Dave MacKay)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 19:00:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Will I regret making these mods?
Message-ID: <BAYC1-PASMTP1237D12769889CB6351066A4190@CEZ.ICE>

Hello:

 

I'm just about to start rebuilding the engine of my TR3A. I'd appreciate
some feedback from members of the list about 2 modifications I'm
considering.

1) In an effort to reduce the amount of oil that my car leaves behind, I am
considering adding a PCV valve assembly (as used in the TR4A). 

    For your reference, this is Moss USA part # 360-630

2) I was thinking of ceramic coating the exhaust manifold. Although this
might provide a modest benefit to performance, the primary appeal is
cosmetic.

 

I'd welcome any feedback.

 

Regards,

 

Dave MacKay

1960 TR3A s/n 68639L(O)

Near Toronto, Canada

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Feb 25 17:37:17 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 19:37:17 EST
Subject: [TR] Will I regret making these mods?
Message-ID: <c4e.2ae7dfc0.34f4b93d@aol.com>

There are others that may ring in on this but IMHO if you rebuild the motor  
and therefore reduce the blow by and therefore reduce the crankcase pressure  
(such as it is) I think your original vent will do just fine.  My 3A marked  
it territory plenty, but not much, if at all, from the vent.  IIWY I would  put 
in a modern rear seal.  With the crank out and all, it will be a good  
opportunity.  
I sprayed my cast manifold on my TR6 with high temp paint and baked it in  
the oven before putting it on the car and it still looks sterling after four  
years.  I would try that first if you are going for cosmetic because if it  
turns out not to your liking, itis easy to remove and do something more  expensive.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Feb 25 17:46:02 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 19:46:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Will I regret making these mods?
In-Reply-To: <BAYC1-PASMTP1237D12769889CB6351066A4190@CEZ.ICE>
Message-ID: <001701c87810$f7233a30$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1>

I'd do the rear crankcase oil seal conversion before anything else.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Mo and Dave MacKay
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 7:01 PM
To: Mailing List Triumph (Triumph Mailing List)
Subject: [TR] Will I regret making these mods?

Hello:

 

I'm just about to start rebuilding the engine of my TR3A. I'd appreciate
some feedback from members of the list about 2 modifications I'm
considering.

1) In an effort to reduce the amount of oil that my car leaves behind, I am
considering adding a PCV valve assembly (as used in the TR4A). 

    For your reference, this is Moss USA part # 360-630

2) I was thinking of ceramic coating the exhaust manifold. Although this
might provide a modest benefit to performance, the primary appeal is
cosmetic.

 

I'd welcome any feedback.

 

Regards,

 

Dave MacKay

1960 TR3A s/n 68639L(O)

Near Toronto, Canada
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Feb 25 17:50:15 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 19:50:15 EST
Subject: [TR] Will I regret making these mods?
Message-ID: <bba.25708ff3.34f4bc47@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/25/2008 4:01:27 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca writes:

I was  thinking of ceramic coating the exhaust manifold. Although this
might  provide a modest benefit to performance, the primary appeal  is
cosmetic.



Dave,
 
I was talked out of jet-hot coating my stainless steel exhaust manifold by  
my restoration shop years ago when we restored the TR6 ( the shop owner claimed 
 that the ceramic would crack and yellow over time).  The price was very  
reasonable and I knew that the quality was good plus the ceramic would provide  
long lasting appearance and "run" cooler.  Instead I used a high temp  exhaust 
paint from Eastwood.  It looks okay after 5 years but just doesn't  compare to 
what a nice jet-hot would have looked like.  I would say go for  it!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb 25 18:01:40 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 20:01:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Another Brake Assembly Question
Message-ID: <003401c87813$27986670$210110ac@bobspc>

I've got the Trailing Arms, Springs and Shocks all installed. Next is
installing the hubs and rear brakes. My question is........can I assemble
all the rear brake components (cylinder, locking plates, handbrake lever,
adjuster, shoes etc) on the back plate and then attach it all to the
trailing arm/rear hub? It seems like it would be easier to re-assembly
everything on a workbench.

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.0/1296 - Release Date: 2/24/2008
12:19 PM

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Mon Feb 25 19:23:24 2008
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 19:23:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door Check
Message-ID: <000001c8781e$9148abb0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Hello List,
 
I am looking for the little 'eye' unit that is supposed to be on the
A-Pillar of my TR3A that the door check unit attaches to.   I have checked
with the usual suspects, MM, TRF & VB but this does not seem to be stocked.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Thx,
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb 25 20:33:26 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 21:33:26 -0600
Subject: [TR] Will I regret making these mods?
References: <BAYC1-PASMTP1237D12769889CB6351066A4190@CEZ.ICE>
Message-ID: <004701c87828$712c4210$800101df@garage.local>

do the ceramic coating.  it reduces heat and looks fantastic!  it should 
last almost forever.

i had my TR6 and datsun roadster done.  never regretted it, and if you like 
you can get a polished, shiny finish.

>
> 2) I was thinking of ceramic coating the exhaust manifold. Although this
> might provide a modest benefit to performance, the primary appeal is
> cosmetic.

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Feb 25 21:09:53 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 23:09:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] adding wire, changes
Message-ID: <000901c8782d$7148ff90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
The confusion of wires behind my TR3's center console has me asking, "Is there
a better way?"
Will it hurt anything if I add 6" of wire to just about all the terminals on
the gauges and switches (in order to give me some breathing room and make it
look 'cleaner'.

If I slightly change the schematic diagram will it hurt?  For instance, the
wire coming from the control box to the console first comes to 'A' on the
light switch and then goes to the key switch.  Can I 'slightly alter' it by
first going to the key switch and then the 'A' terminal on the light switch?
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From stagbytriumph at tscusa.org  Mon Feb 25 21:25:29 2008
From: stagbytriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 21:25:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] John Macartney Charity 2009 Drive- Stag Restoration -
 update
In-Reply-To: <c75.277cfbcb.34f4289a@aol.com>
References: <c75.277cfbcb.34f4289a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47C394B9.8030705@tscusa.org>

ZinkZ10C at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/24/08 11:05:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes:
>
> << However, at this time I am looking for the parts for a Tate & Lewis   conver
> sion ZF 4 or 5 speed Automatic - >>
>
> It would be helpful to know what specific ZF model trans is needed and what
> cars it is typically found in.
>
> Harold
>
>   
Harold,
I am only now starting to look into this.  However I am told it is a 
jaguar ZF 4hp22 box with lock-up torque converter , using a mix of B/W 
35 /65 parts and jag parts.
There are more forum posts I need to go over to extract more details.

Glenn Merrell

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Mon Feb 25 22:03:52 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 21:03:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wilwood Master Cylinders
Message-ID: <47C39DB8.3080503@comcast.net>

I was perusing the Wilwood catalog today and discovered PN 260-6089
"Compact Remote Master Cylinder" which matches the dimensions of the
Girling units on the TR3A's. They can be ordered for $48 each off of the
web. "Cheap" reproduction units are $70 or more from BPNW, TRF, etc.
Anybody have any experience with using these?

I haven't had time to  do a search for inlet and outlet fitting sizes.
The Wilwood unit has 7/16-20 inlet and an 3/8-24 outlet which probably
wouldn't be too difficult to adapt if they don't match.

Thanks,

Mike

From markvaden at gmail.com  Mon Feb 25 23:17:52 2008
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 22:17:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] Tourist Trophy steering wheels
Message-ID: <285b8a860802252217v698948aci6820eb4e74e64ff2@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

Heritage Motorsports in El Cajon - has just placed some Tourist Trophy
steering wheels for sale. They are new, and are listed at a very good
price. NFI, just thought that people might be interested.

http://www.britishheritagemotorsports.com/special.htm

-Mark

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Tue Feb 26 07:34:27 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 09:34:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Will I regret making these mods?
Message-ID: <380-220082226143427748@M2W042.mail2web.com>

Chip,
It's unfortunate that that shop owner gave you incorrect info.  I really
don't know why he would have said that and it would appear to me that he
had never Jet Hot coated anything.  - I was one of the first people to get
my headers done at Jet hot - and they are still in fantastic shape - the
best thing you can do to your exhaust.  I don't know about the other
ceramic coating places, but I can attest to the quality of Jet Hot.  They
will last forever (or practically)  They will not rust or corrode.  I just
had my truck headers done because after fabricating them, I didn't want to
have to build another set in my lifetime (the same reason I did the V6
spitfire headers) - the newer stuff is even better than the coating on my
original V6 headers - And I did them many many years ago - sure the old
Spitfire headers are not super shiny (they were never chrome like) but they
are not rusting like my GT6 exhaust manifold that I painted with exhaust
coating from Eastwood -
While the process may not seam cheap, believe me, its cheaper in the long
run -

Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA

Original Message:
-----------------

From:  Chip19474 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 19:50:15 EST
To: m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca, triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Will I regret making these mods?


In a message dated 2/25/2008 4:01:27 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca writes:

I was  thinking of ceramic coating the exhaust manifold. Although this
might  provide a modest benefit to performance, the primary appeal  is
cosmetic.



Dave,

I was talked out of jet-hot coating my stainless steel exhaust manifold by
my restoration shop years ago when we restored the TR6 ( the shop owner
claimed
 that the ceramic would crack and yellow over time).  The price was very
reasonable and I knew that the quality was good plus the ceramic would
provide
long lasting appearance and "run" cooler.  Instead I used a high temp
exhaust
paint from Eastwood.  It looks okay after 5 years but just doesn't  compare
to
what a nice jet-hot would have looked like.  I would say go for  it!

Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-du
ffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Tue Feb 26 07:56:59 2008
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 09:56:59 EST
Subject: [TR] Will I regret these mods
Message-ID: <bb8.225af77f.34f582bb@aol.com>

The exhaust manifold on my TR4A had the jet-hot coating on when I purchased 
the car three years ago.  It still looks good and have had many positive 
remarks.  I would recommend it.


  Rodney Ford                                                           TR4A 
IRS    CTC60536L          
  Brick,  NJ                                                               
TR7 Spider   TPVDJ8AA 400612                                                     
                   
  President, Positive Earth Drivers Club
                        


**************
Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch 
video on AOL Living.
      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Feb 26 08:46:58 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 08:46:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Will I regret these mods
In-Reply-To: <bb8.225af77f.34f582bb@aol.com>
References: <bb8.225af77f.34f582bb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001d01c8788e$d3e309a0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

As someone who has never heard of Jet-Hot coating can you point me to a good
site to learn from?  Is this something that I can apply to my exhaust
manifold and downpipe to keep them from bluing and oxidation?

Thx,
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
FordneyNJ at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 7:57 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Will I regret these mods

The exhaust manifold on my TR4A had the jet-hot coating on when I purchased
the car three years ago.  It still looks good and have had many positive
remarks.  I would recommend it.


  Rodney Ford                                                           TR4A

IRS    CTC60536L          
  Brick,  NJ                                                               
TR7 Spider   TPVDJ8AA 400612

                   
  President, Positive Earth Drivers Club
                        


**************
Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch
video on AOL Living.
      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-du
ffy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Feb 26 10:09:43 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 12:09:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] mystery bolt:  1/4"- 12TPI
Message-ID: <001b01c8789a$6274d620$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I spilled some bolts that had been ordered for my TR3.  Only one is
unidentified:
It is a gold colored 1/4" bolt, only 1/2" in shank length, and get this: it's
about 12tpi !!!

Can you help me identify this bolt?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey   60 tr3

From wsteinman at pogolaw.com  Tue Feb 26 10:25:43 2008
From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 12:25:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR6
Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F016A8B31@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET>

Howdy all.   Anyone know of a pre-1974 (the earlier the better, preferably pre-1973) TR6 for sale?  Looking for a very pretty driver and without serious modifications from original specification.  Not looking for a car in need of serious work (got my hands full at the moment).  Dark brown or blue strongly preferred.  Distance not a big deal, but I'm in the DC metro area.  

Thanks!

***********

William B. F. Steinman
Powell Goldstein LLP
901 New York Avenue, N.W.
Washington, D.C.  20001
(202) 624-7292 (tel)
(202) 624-7222 (fax)
(301) 651-6083 (mobile)
wsteinman at pogolaw.com

PRIVILEGED & CONFIDENTIAL




NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code.

Thank you. 

From kentshrack at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 26 11:52:24 2008
From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 10:52:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Header coating
Message-ID: <199564.78677.qm@web57812.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I have used the following for flow coating exhaust / headers.  I had the muffler shells on our '21 Cadillac coated to make them last as NOS mufflers are hard to find.
  http://www.hpcoatings.com/products/corrosion.aspx
  NFI.
  1960 TR3a, TS78563 o

       
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.

From team.net at daveola.com  Tue Feb 26 12:03:14 2008
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 11:03:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] Will I regret making these mods?
In-Reply-To: <BAYC1-PASMTP1237D12769889CB6351066A4190@CEZ.ICE>
References: <BAYC1-PASMTP1237D12769889CB6351066A4190@CEZ.ICE>
Message-ID: <E1JU59N-0006pS-FI@dave.getdave.com>

> 2) I was thinking of ceramic coating the exhaust manifold. Although this
> might provide a modest benefit to performance, the primary appeal is
> cosmetic.

I had mine done by JetHot because the paint was peeling and also
because I wanted to reduce some heat in the engine bay.  It certainly
came out looking nicer, and I haven't noticed any changes in the
coating (it's been almost 5 years now).

Sadly, though, it does *not* come out as a "near chrome polish" as
JetHot claimed.  Here's before/after photos (third photo does the
best job of showing the finished result):

http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Manifold-Coating/

(Click on the medium size photo to get a full resolution
to see the surface of the manifold a little better).
It's too dull and bumpy to show any sort of reflection,
but it sure looks better than peeling paint.

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415 341-5555
------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 26 12:09:31 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 11:09:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] mystery bolt:  1/4"- 12TPI
In-Reply-To: <001b01c8789a$6274d620$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <001b01c8789a$6274d620$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <1e1901c878ab$1e09ab30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I spilled some bolts that had been ordered for my TR3.  Only one is
> unidentified:
> It is a gold colored 1/4" bolt, only 1/2" in shank length, 
> and get this: it's
> about 12tpi !!!

Sounds like one of the two ACME bolts that hold the heater frame to the dash
support rails.  P/N UL2704.

Randall

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Tue Feb 26 14:11:34 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 16:11:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] looking for two 165 Michelin XZX tires
Message-ID: <a11dceec0802261311p1502363dndb3003d20ec8b7d@mail.gmail.com>

I have 2 Michelin 165-15s that while NOS would make for great concours
tires.  Does anyone have two more they want to sell to make a set?

Please contact me off if you have any tires or ideas.  If all else fails, I
suppose I can buy two new from Coker.

Thanks,  Ted

-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
http://www.triumphowners.com/967

From technical-iwnet at onwight.net  Tue Feb 26 14:28:59 2008
From: technical-iwnet at onwight.net (Graham Stretch)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 21:28:59 -0000
Subject: [TR] lucas points and "new" 69 tr6
References: <bdc.24dfe0cc.34f19b1d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <006c01c878be$99ae1060$0601a8c0@Zebu>

Hi Guys
Wish I had a penny for every time my missus has asked if this bit is needed!

Graham.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Chip19474 at aol.com>
To: <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] lucas points and "new" 69 tr6


> In a message dated 2/23/2008 7:11:27 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:
>
> Remember, the wire goes UNDER the insulator !
> And it won't run with  the rotor laying on the fender !
>
>
>
> Ha, ha,ha.........great advice, Randall - many a weekend tune-up have 
> ended
> in frustration and failure over such a simple oversight:)
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1976 TR6  CF57822U
>
>
>
> **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
> (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
> 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as technical-iwnet at onwight.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.8/1289 - Release Date: 
> 20/02/2008 10:26

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 26 14:37:36 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:37:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] Will I regret making these mods?
In-Reply-To: <E1JU59N-0006pS-FI@dave.getdave.com>
References: <BAYC1-PASMTP1237D12769889CB6351066A4190@CEZ.ICE>
	<E1JU59N-0006pS-FI@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <1e6001c878bf$cdce38b0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Sadly, though, it does *not* come out as a "near chrome polish" as
> JetHot claimed.  Here's before/after photos (third photo does the
> best job of showing the finished result):
> 
> http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Manifold-Coating/

Looks pretty much like what chrome would look like, if you chromed something
that rough, IMO.  To get "shiny" takes a whole lot of surface preparation;
and if it's not shiny before the chrome goes on, it won't be afterwards
either.

Just curious, does anyone have a cosmetic comparison of Jet Hot with the
high temperature powder coats ?

Randall

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Tue Feb 26 15:12:23 2008
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 17:12:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR6
In-Reply-To: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F016A8B31@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET>
References: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F016A8B31@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET>
Message-ID: <47C48EC7.7050305@earthlink.net>

Well Hayes just sold the damson 72 he had, however, drop him a line and 
tell him what you are looking for.  I pretty sure he'd keep on the 
"list" so to speak.  ()http://www.wirewheel.com/

NFI,

Joe

Steinman, Bill wrote:
> Howdy all.   Anyone know of a pre-1974 (the earlier the better, preferably pre-1973) TR6 for sale?  Looking for a very pretty driver and without serious modifications from original specification.  Not looking for a car in need of serious work (got my hands full at the moment).  Dark brown or blue strongly preferred.  Distance not a big deal, but I'm in the DC metro area.  
>
> Thanks!
>
> ***********
>
> William B. F. Steinman
> Powell Goldstein LLP
> 901 New York Avenue, N.W.
> Washington, D.C.  20001
> (202) 624-7292 (tel)
> (202) 624-7222 (fax)
> (301) 651-6083 (mobile)
> wsteinman at pogolaw.com
>
> PRIVILEGED & CONFIDENTIAL
>
>
>
>
> NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code.
>
> Thank you. 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Feb 26 16:33:36 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 18:33:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] looking for two 165 Michelin XZX tires
In-Reply-To: <a11dceec0802261311p1502363dndb3003d20ec8b7d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47C45B80.6401.1B466CFA@localhost>

On 26 Feb 2008 at 16:11, Ted wrote:

> I have 2 Michelin 165-15s that while NOS would make for great concours
> tires.  Does anyone have two more they want to sell to make a set?

I have four XZX's.  Don't recall the size, but they may be 165x15.  
They are still mounted on clean, silver-painted GT6 wheels with shiny 
chrome trim rings.  I can't imagine putting those wheels back on the 
car, seein' as how it now has Cosmic MkII wheels with newer tires and 
I drive it regularly.  The car does look more chromy with the 
original wheels but more, umm, purposeful with the Cosmics.  I would 
not advise you drive at high speed with those tires, considering 
their age.  For concourse they'd be great tho'.

I'll check the size.  What part of what country are you in?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 26 16:41:57 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 15:41:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] looking for two 165 Michelin XZX tires
In-Reply-To: <47C45B80.6401.1B466CFA@localhost>
References: <a11dceec0802261311p1502363dndb3003d20ec8b7d@mail.gmail.com>
	<47C45B80.6401.1B466CFA@localhost>
Message-ID: <1e9d01c878d1$2caa10a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I have four XZX's.  Don't recall the size, but they may be 165x15.  
> They are still mounted on clean, silver-painted GT6 wheels 

Not 15's then.  GT6 wheels are 13".

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Feb 26 16:43:07 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 18:43:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] looking for two 165 Michelin XZX tires
In-Reply-To: <47C45B80.6401.1B466CFA@localhost>
References: <a11dceec0802261311p1502363dndb3003d20ec8b7d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47C45DBB.15418.1B4F22D5@localhost>

On 26 Feb 2008 at 18:33, Jim Muller wrote:

> On 26 Feb 2008 at 16:11, Ted wrote:
> 
> > I have 2 Michelin 165-15s that while NOS would make for great concours
> > tires.  Does anyone have two more they want to sell to make a set?
> 
> I have four XZX's.  Don't recall the size, but they may be 165x15.

Alas, they could not be 15in at all, not on original GT6 wheels.

I just checked, waded through the remains of last weekend's 9 inches 
of snow.  They are 155SR13.  Sorry.  However for anyone building a 
concourse GT6...

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 26 18:06:26 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 20:06:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake Assembly
Message-ID: <000001c878dc$fc921730$210110ac@bobspc>

Thanks for all the input on the assembly of the rear brakes. Lots of good
suggestions along with the Buckeye Triumph article made it a very easy job.
I just updated my site with some pictures
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BrakeUpgrade2.htm) The new wheel cylinders
are from Kai Radicki and is the larger Sunbeam/Morgan bore. All my other
brake parts came from Ted Schumacher including the rebuilt calipers.

Thanks again

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
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8:45 PM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 26 18:59:45 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 20:59:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Axle Lube
Message-ID: <000101c878e4$6f198840$210110ac@bobspc>

Before I put the rear axles back in the car, what is the best lube/grease to
use on the sliding splines? There's something in there now but it's so old
and gummy, I can't tell what it is.........and Haynes doesnt even mention
anything.

Thanks

Bob (with lots of questions as he starts putting stuff back ON his car!)

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1298 - Release Date: 2/25/2008
8:45 PM

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Feb 26 19:00:09 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 21:00:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Good Deal at Jegs
Message-ID: <000801c878e4$7e04cea0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I'd like to enlighten listers that the Pertronix Electron Ignition (LU142A)
available from Moss Motors for $107 (which fits 25D distributor, for neg. grnd
vehicles)
<
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29792&SortOrder
=5 >

is just $77 at Jegs (shown at the link below:)
http://www.jegs.com/i/Pertronix/751/LU-142A/10002/-1
A positive grnd. version is also available.

Although I may be months away from installing it on my car, I thought I should
share the smarts.
I don't think the Jegs site mentions anything for a DM2 type distributor.

NFI
Thanks, Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Tue Feb 26 19:04:45 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 21:04:45 EST
Subject: [TR] looking for two 165 Michelin XZX tires
Message-ID: <cb4.2c44b49b.34f61f3d@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/26/2008 4:12:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
triumph66 at gmail.com writes:

I have 2  Michelin 165-15s that while NOS would make for great concours
tires.   Does anyone have two more they want to sell to make a  set?


Ted, unless the ones you have are under 5-6 years old (NOS or otherwise), I  
wouldn't bother to buy two new ones just to "go Concours"! For one thing, the  
XZX tread wasn't available as far back as the TR4A; optional original 
equipment  back then would've been the "original" Michelin X. Besides, I'm not sure a 
 modern tire in the correct size would count against you regardless. Of 
course,  there seems to be very little currently available in that size nowadays. 
>From  personal experience, I'd say that the XZX was an ok tire 25 years ago, 
but  probably no better than current Kumhos (if they're still available).  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From douglashansen at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 26 19:27:10 2008
From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 18:27:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Good Deal at Jegs
Message-ID: <522444.12731.qm@web52204.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Just about all of Moss' after market parts are marked up a lot!
I order most of my parts from summitracing.  crane cams ignition is cheaper too
the elec fans that they sell are twice what I pay for them at my local parts store. 
 
Douglas A. Hansen
www.1147cc.com
 



----- Original Message ----
From: dorpaul <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 9:00:09 PM
Subject: [TR] Good Deal at Jegs

I'd like to enlighten listers that the Pertronix Electron Ignition (LU142A)
available from Moss Motors for $107 (which fits 25D distributor, for neg. grnd
vehicles)
<
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29792&SortOrder
=5 >

is just $77 at Jegs (shown at the link below:)
http://www.jegs.com/i/Pertronix/751/LU-142A/10002/-1
A positive grnd. version is also available.

Although I may be months away from installing it on my car, I thought I should
share the smarts.
I don't think the Jegs site mentions anything for a DM2 type distributor.

NFI
Thanks, Paul Dorsey
60 TR3
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From trglory at comcast.net  Tue Feb 26 20:14:07 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 22:14:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Axle Lube
In-Reply-To: <000101c878e4$6f198840$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000101c878e4$6f198840$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <009e01c878ee$d1075f50$73161df0$@net>

Bob;

I just used good old white lithium.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 9:00 PM
To: 'list Triumph'; 'Six Pack'
Subject: [6pack] Axle Lube

Before I put the rear axles back in the car, what is the best lube/grease to
use on the sliding splines? There's something in there now but it's so old
and gummy, I can't tell what it is.........and Haynes doesnt even mention
anything.

Thanks

Bob

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8:45 PM

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Tue Feb 26 20:29:06 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 20:29:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Seat Back Hardware
Message-ID: <F8DAD7609B9549CF9B0917B31C1B2122@GeoPC>

Late TR4s (from 20877CT) have vinyl-covered masonite panels that form the
backside of the seat upright.  These panels are secured by a bunch of funny
little clips.  I recall that some or all of these are a type that clip on thru
the holes in the masonite then slide (upward) into place to grip the seat
frame.

Anyone know of a source for these clips?  Alternately, a part number or other
applications might help me source a few.  As a last resort there may be some
other type pf clip that works here?  I have seen some seats with screws used
to secure these panels -- works but not what I want to do.

Thanks for any help.

Geo

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Tue Feb 26 22:33:02 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 21:33:02 -0800
Subject: [TR]  TR4 Seat Back Hardware
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2946.1204083039.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <026f01c87902$3934db80$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

Geo,
I replaced my entire 4a interior last fall and the seat backs were one of
the most frustrating pieces! I found the clips thru TRF and Moss, but since
the new panels were made of thin wood (plywood), these clips were useless. I
ended up using two small chrome screws, one in each top corner, to hold the
panel on. Kind of dress it up too, imho.

Brian
'67 4a

------------------------------

Message: 16
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 20:29:06 -0700
From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" <ahwahnee at cybertrails.com>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Seat Back Hardware
To: "TR List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F8DAD7609B9549CF9B0917B31C1B2122 at GeoPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Late TR4s (from 20877CT) have vinyl-covered masonite panels that form the
backside of the seat upright.  These panels are secured by a bunch of funny
little clips.  I recall that some or all of these are a type that clip on
thru
the holes in the masonite then slide (upward) into place to grip the seat
frame.

Anyone know of a source for these clips?  Alternately, a part number or
other
applications might help me source a few.  As a last resort there may be some
other type pf clip that works here?  I have seen some seats with screws used
to secure these panels -- works but not what I want to do.

Thanks for any help.

Geo


------------------------------

_______________________________________________

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 92
***************************************

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb 27 06:24:04 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 08:24:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Accelerator Bearing Kit
Message-ID: <001201c87944$07c9ecb0$210110ac@bobspc>

No financial interest here......just trying to help out a TR guy who has
responded to a need & is now producing a great kit. Back in January I
replaced my accelerator bearing with the original nylon ones and installed
the driver's side backwards. When I asked the Mail List for help a bunch of
you responded with the bronze bearing suggestion which I ordered. However,
the bronze bearings and locking collar need to be reamed out for proper fit
and the bearing is too long on the passenger side to allow use of the washer
and cotter pin. That was a red flag safety issue for me. I emailed Art Lipp
and he made a Delrin bearing kit for me. You can see it here
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AcceleratorShaft.htm) and the final kit
components is at the very bottom of the page.

Just an FYI with NFI!

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
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7:50 PM

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Wed Feb 27 08:01:24 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 08:01:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Seat Back Hardware
In-Reply-To: <026f01c87902$3934db80$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <026f01c87902$3934db80$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <180B5731174D4576931C37C28436F323@GeoPC>

Thanks for the leads.  I will look for a part number as I do not see this in 
the Moss catalog.

The seat kit I have just received from TRF uses masonite for the backs (as 
original) so I am hopeful the clips will still work.  My old seat backs have 
a tendency to pop loose on long drives, probably from the flexing that 
occurs as I squirm in the seat.

This may be due to the age of the masonite & some damage in the area around 
some of the small holes in it possibly from a PO who didn't realize you 
slide them down to remove (rather than pry like a door panel).

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at roadrunner.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 10:33 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 Seat Back Hardware


> Geo,
> I replaced my entire 4a interior last fall and the seat backs were one of
> the most frustrating pieces! I found the clips thru TRF and Moss, but 
> since
> the new panels were made of thin wood (plywood), these clips were useless. 
> I
> ended up using two small chrome screws, one in each top corner, to hold 
> the
> panel on. Kind of dress it up too, imho.
>
> Brian
> '67 4a 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb 27 12:36:11 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 14:36:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Engine Stand Help
Message-ID: <000001c87978$04019c70$210110ac@bobspc>

I just assembled my cheapo Harbour Freight, hope I only have to use it one
time, engine stand. I'm sure it's obvious to everyone but me
but..........how do you bolt the engine to the stand? I know you use bolts
and nuts but where on the engine is the attachment point? A picture is worth
a thousand words so http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm  Do my
arrows show the attachment points?

This is one of those things I want to get right as I have visions on it
falling on the floor....oops.

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
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7:50 PM

From darrellw at ipns.com  Wed Feb 27 12:45:16 2008
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 11:45:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] Engine Stand Help
In-Reply-To: <000001c87978$04019c70$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c87978$04019c70$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <6F53A180-A5A1-4A30-9689-6E4084F751D9@ipns.com>

Hi Bob,

I can't help on specific location for the TR6, but I can tell you to  
make sure try to center the rotation point near the center of mass of  
the block.  One time I put it pretty much lined up with the crank,  
and when I went to turn the engine over it was exciting, to say the  
least!

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Feb 27 12:48:08 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 14:48:08 EST
Subject: [TR] Engine Stand Help
Message-ID: <ca6.24c5a962.34f71878@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/27/2008 11:37:47 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

just  assembled my cheapo Harbour Freight, hope I only have to use it one
time,  engine stand. I'm sure it's obvious to everyone but me
but..........how do  you bolt the engine to the stand? I know you use bolts
and nuts but where  on the engine is the attachment point? A picture is worth
a thousand words  so http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm  Do my
arrows show  the attachment points?

This is one of those things I want to get right  as I have visions on it
falling on the  floor....oops.

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6  CF38503U



Bob,
My HF stand was built wrong. When assembled, the horizontal axis pointed  
downhill instead of uphill. I had a local shop cut off the upright and reverse  
it for me.The problem I had was when you removed the locking pin to rotate it,  
you got into an ugly situation where the 600# (XK) engine was sliding  
downhill!
Mike Moore



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Feb 27 12:49:13 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 12:49:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Engine Stand Help
In-Reply-To: <000001c87978$04019c70$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c87978$04019c70$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <00d101c87979$d6e0ce80$6401a8c0@sniffer>

I had the same quandary on my TR3 engine, same stand. 

I got a scrap of 1/4" plate and cut it into a horseshoe shape about 4" wide
to cover all the transmission mounting bolts and expose the crankshaft.
Then using the trans case as a template I marked and drilled all the holes
in the plate along with four big 1/2" holes to hold the engine stand's
mounting bolts.

I don't have the engine or the plate close by or I would send you a picture.
If you have any questions about my description, just ask.

Bill 

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!






-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 12:36 PM
To: 'list Triumph'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Engine Stand Help

I just assembled my cheapo Harbour Freight, hope I only have to use it one
time, engine stand. I'm sure it's obvious to everyone but me
but..........how do you bolt the engine to the stand? I know you use bolts
and nuts but where on the engine is the attachment point? A picture is worth
a thousand words so http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm  Do my
arrows show the attachment points?

This is one of those things I want to get right as I have visions on it
falling on the floor....oops.

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1300 - Release Date: 2/26/2008
7:50 PM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb 27 14:21:46 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 16:21:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lateral Engine Stand Mount
Message-ID: <003501c87986$c3d47b40$210110ac@bobspc>

One of the List guys found this picture on someone's web site (he can't
remember who) and it uses the engine mount bolt holes for the engine stand.
Very cool idea but does anyone see a down side to this? The picture is at
the bottom of http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm
 
Thanks
 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1300 - Release Date: 2/26/2008
7:50 PM

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Wed Feb 27 14:23:33 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 13:23:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] Engine Stand Help
References: <000001c87978$04019c70$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <00fc01c87987$01b03490$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Bob,
Looking at your pic, I would bolt the arms of your engine stand to the white
arrow. I have the same engine stand & for my TR6 I bolted the arms the same
way; to the outside rear engine plate. One arm went near the starter holes of
the plate. Make sure your at equal distance on the opposite side of the plate.
When you rotate the engine make sure you have a bolt or rod handy to lock it
in place. The locking mechanism is not very good on those cheap stands. Good
Luck,
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Danielson
  To: 'list Triumph' ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 11:36 AM
  Subject: [TR] Engine Stand Help


  I just assembled my cheapo Harbour Freight, hope I only have to use it one
  time, engine stand. I'm sure it's obvious to everyone but me
  but..........how do you bolt the engine to the stand? I know you use bolts
  and nuts but where on the engine is the attachment point? A picture is
worth
  a thousand words so http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm  Do my
  arrows show the attachment points?

  This is one of those things I want to get right as I have visions on it
  falling on the floor....oops.

  Thanks

  Bob Danielson
  1975 TR6 CF38503U
  Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1300 - Release Date: 2/26/2008
  7:50 PM



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  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Wed Feb 27 14:29:45 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 16:29:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 gauge bezel rubber?
Message-ID: <001501c87987$dfe6f460$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I am mounting my TR3 gauges to the console panel.  Originally, I believe a
rubber ring was squezed up between the chrome bezel and the metal console.
What can I use for this rubber ring?
    Moss sells a 'gauge mounting ring' (280-870) for $1.95 for TR4 gauges.  Is
this ring also used on TR3s?  Maybe is isn't needed?
Thanks, Paul Dorsey

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Wed Feb 27 14:35:48 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 13:35:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] Lateral Engine Stand Mount
References: <003501c87986$c3d47b40$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <012c01c87988$b81e3640$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Bob,
I like that idea better if you want to take the time to make the plate. I was
in a hurry and not wanting to fabricate, I just bolted w/ the arms furnished
w/ the HF stand and as I mentioned before to the rear plate.
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Danielson
  To: 'list Triumph' ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 1:21 PM
  Subject: [TR] Lateral Engine Stand Mount


  One of the List guys found this picture on someone's web site (he can't
  remember who) and it uses the engine mount bolt holes for the engine stand.
  Very cool idea but does anyone see a down side to this? The picture is at
  the bottom of http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm

  Thanks

  Bob Danielson
  1975 TR6 CF38503U
  Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1300 - Release Date: 2/26/2008
  7:50 PM



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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 27 15:34:57 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 14:34:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 gauge bezel rubber?
In-Reply-To: <001501c87987$dfe6f460$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <001501c87987$dfe6f460$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <217201c87990$fb08ab40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Originally, I believe a
> rubber ring was squezed up between the chrome bezel and the 
> metal console.
> What can I use for this rubber ring?
>     Moss sells a 'gauge mounting ring' (280-870) for $1.95 
> for TR4 gauges.  Is
> this ring also used on TR3s?  Maybe is isn't needed?

Certainly not a requirement, I ran without it for many years and never knew
the difference.  But it's kind of a nicety, helps keep the paint on the
console from chipping.

You can use the TR4 rings from Moss (TR3 gauges are same size and mount the
same way) or TRF sells the same thing for $.95 (P/N SLP171).

Or what I did was to buy ordinary O-rings in the appropriate sizes from MMC.
They are square enough once they are installed <G>

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 27 15:37:47 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 14:37:47 -0800
Subject: [TR] Lateral Engine Stand Mount
In-Reply-To: <003501c87986$c3d47b40$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <003501c87986$c3d47b40$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <217301c87991$60969800$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Very cool idea but does anyone see a down side to this? 

One downside would be that the engine is way off-center.  That's going to
make it a major project when you need to rotate it.  As someone already
mentioned, I like to get mine nearly balanced, so it will stay at any
position without having to insert the pin (and support the engine while
trying to insert the pin).

Randall

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Wed Feb 27 16:49:56 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 18:49:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 gauge bezel rubber?
References: <001501c87987$dfe6f460$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<217201c87990$fb08ab40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <001e01c8799b$7590ba10$fc207247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

The"O" rings are intended as a "dust/dirt" protector, keeping them out of 
your gauges.  "FT"

>> Originally, I believe a
>> rubber ring was squezed up between the chrome bezel and the
>> metal console.
>> What can I use for this rubber ring?
>>     Moss sells a 'gauge mounting ring' (280-870) for $1.95
>> for TR4 gauges.  Is
>> this ring also used on TR3s?  Maybe is isn't needed?
>
> Certainly not a requirement, I ran without it for many years and never 
> knew
> the difference.  But it's kind of a nicety, helps keep the paint on the
> console from chipping.
>
> You can use the TR4 rings from Moss (TR3 gauges are same size and mount 
> the
> same way) or TRF sells the same thing for $.95 (P/N SLP171).
>
> Or what I did was to buy ordinary O-rings in the appropriate sizes from 
> MMC.
> They are square enough once they are installed <G>
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Feb 27 21:39:57 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 21:39:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 gauge bezel rubber?
In-Reply-To: <001501c87987$dfe6f460$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <001501c87987$dfe6f460$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <001701c879c3$f9445dd0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Check with Morris at West Valley instruments: 818-758-9500 he can probably
help you out.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
dorpaul
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 2:30 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] TR3 gauge bezel rubber?

I am mounting my TR3 gauges to the console panel.  Originally, I believe a
rubber ring was squezed up between the chrome bezel and the metal console.
What can I use for this rubber ring?
    Moss sells a 'gauge mounting ring' (280-870) for $1.95 for TR4 gauges.
Is this ring also used on TR3s?  Maybe is isn't needed?
Thanks, Paul Dorsey
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 28 06:57:31 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 07:57:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] part needed
References: <008201c872be$b05592d0$dbd70c47@alan>
	<003201c872c2$72a1d710$54f30818@rolofson>
Message-ID: <001901c87a11$ed50d730$800101df@garage.local>

i just know this is a common part everyone has lying around . . .

being the incredible optimist, i'm looking for a passenger side floorpan for 
a tr4, tr4a, tr250, or tr6.  all the same part. 

From lbc.resto at comcast.net  Thu Feb 28 07:54:27 2008
From: lbc.resto at comcast.net (Ian)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:54:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fort Wayne Clutch & Driveline
Message-ID: <000f01c87a19$d2187b50$0202a8c0@RAS>

Has anyone used them for rebuilt clutches? If so, what was your experience
like?

They have good reviews on eBay, but I would appreciate hearing personal
experiences of how they hold up after a year or two.

www.fortwayneclutch.com

If not them, then what about any other rebuilders?

--
Ian
62 TR4

From red_tr250 at hotmail.com  Thu Feb 28 10:36:30 2008
From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 12:36:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR6
In-Reply-To: <47C48EC7.7050305@earthlink.net>
References: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F016A8B31@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET>
	<47C48EC7.7050305@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BAY131-W30E821D8E1851D5272BD79D21B0@phx.gbl>

Bill,

Check out www.jaxed.com  and don't hate me cus you look at it every day...it's
addicting

Cheers,

Todd> Steinman, Bill wrote:> > Howdy all. Anyone know of a pre-1974 (the
earlier the better, preferably pre-1973) TR6 for sale? Looking for a very
pretty driver and without serious modifications from original specification.
Not looking for a car in need of serious work (got my hands full at the
moment). Dark brown or blue strongly preferred. Distance not a big deal, but
I'm in the DC metro area. > >> > Thanks!> >> > ***********> >> > William B. F.
Steinman> > Powell Goldstein LLP> > 901 New York Avenue, N.W.> > Washington,
D.C. 20001> > (202) 624-7292 (tel)> > (202) 624-7222 (fax)> > (301) 651-6083
(mobile)> > wsteinman at pogolaw.com> >
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Thu Feb 28 11:35:18 2008
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 18:35:18 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fuel gauge Q
Message-ID: <838C72DC-686F-4669-B5E5-C5CAAE314A46@tcd.ie>

Hi all quick one, just got my new tank sender unit from the States,  
want to wire up to my rebuilt fuel gauge, my gauge has no indication  
at the terminals as to which is T and which is B. Can someone tell me  
looking at the back of the instrument which wire goes to the left  
terminal and which to the right, or maybe which terminal on the full  
side and which on the empty side. Is it possible for these instruments  
to read backwards. I plan to test the sender and gauge before fitting  
the former to the tank.
Thanks in advance
John

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 28 12:15:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 11:15:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fuel gauge Q
In-Reply-To: <838C72DC-686F-4669-B5E5-C5CAAE314A46@tcd.ie>
References: <838C72DC-686F-4669-B5E5-C5CAAE314A46@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <22d701c87a3e$56d6ae10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Can someone tell me  
> looking at the back of the instrument which wire goes to the left  
> terminal and which to the right,

Looking at the back, with the electrical terminals on top, the right
terminal gets the green wire (switched, fused power) and the left terminal
gets the green/black from the sender.  The markings can be seen in the
photos at :
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_02.htm

> Is it possible for these instruments  
> to read backwards.

No, unless you have the wrong sender (or gauge).  However, it will
definitely not work if the wires are reversed.  I forget whether it reads
full all the time or empty all the time, but it doesn't indicate the level
in the tank at all.

Don't forget that both the sender and gauge (for these early gauges) must be
grounded for proper operation.  It's not clear to me whether the factory
provided ground wires for them or not; but IMO the grounding through the
mountings is far from secure and adding a ground wire for each is a
worthwhile (and hidden) modification.

Unless of course your penchant for originality extends to having electrical
problems even when almost new <G>

Randall

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Thu Feb 28 14:14:15 2008
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 16:14:15 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 gauge bezel bubber
Message-ID: <d65.219f27f2.34f87e27@aol.com>

Paul ,
Try British Car Cottage Industries at   britcot.com    
These are enthusiasts who made some interesting items.
NFI




  Rodney Ford                                                           TR4A 
IRS    CTC60536L          
  Brick,  NJ                                                               
TR7 Spider   TPVDJ8AA 400612                                                     
                                        
                                            President, 
                              Positive Earth Drivers Club
                        


**************
Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch 
video on AOL Living.
      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Thu Feb 28 16:08:38 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:08:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] Detaching header from tailpipe
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10802281508j3ddfcd65hf8a59ffe1ed04d26@mail.gmail.com>

Hi

I've got everything out of the engine bay and have been in there with wire
brush and simple green. Dirty work, but there are those who love it.

I'd like to get the header out for a ceramic coating, but, of course, can't
budge it from its junction with the tail pipe. Many applications of
rust-bust stuff hasn't helped. Is there a way to get them apart without
cutting? Do I apply a  propane torch?

Many thanks

John Howard
TR4's

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 28 16:24:01 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:24:01 -0800
Subject: [TR] Detaching header from tailpipe
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10802281508j3ddfcd65hf8a59ffe1ed04d26@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cd09b7f10802281508j3ddfcd65hf8a59ffe1ed04d26@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <233b01c87a61$00773d50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I'd like to get the header out for a ceramic coating, but, of 
> course, can't
> budge it from its junction with the tail pipe. Many applications of
> rust-bust stuff hasn't helped. Is there a way to get them 
> apart without cutting?

Not always.

> Do I apply a  propane torch?

Should help, but don't forget that most "rust bust stuff" is flammable.  Get
it good and hot, then try twisting the pipes.  Wrapping a wet towel around
the part that goes inside (to create a temporary thermal gradient) may help
too.  Once they start to move a little, dose with PB Blaster then keep
twisting back and forth.

Randall

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Thu Feb 28 19:10:23 2008
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 19:10:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Control Head Plastic
Message-ID: <004301c87a78$3f459c90$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Found a guy on eBay the has just the plastic bits for the TR2-3A control
head, including the chrome ring and horn button (three pcs in all).   I
received a set today and these re-pros look real nice.  My old one was
cracked and I was afraid the only was to replace it was to buy the whole
unit for $175 from one of the big three.
 
NFI...If you would like his contact info, email me off-list and I will be
happy to provide.
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Thu Feb 28 19:31:03 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 18:31:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] Detaching header from tailpipe
In-Reply-To: <233b01c87a61$00773d50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <cd09b7f10802281508j3ddfcd65hf8a59ffe1ed04d26@mail.gmail.com>
	<233b01c87a61$00773d50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10802281831v1d2972b3w973a8133462e2eb5@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks. I'll give a try and report back.
John

On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 3:24 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I'd like to get the header out for a ceramic coating, but, of
> > course, can't
> > budge it from its junction with the tail pipe. Many applications of
> > rust-bust stuff hasn't helped. Is there a way to get them
> > apart without cutting?
>
> Not always.
>
> > Do I apply a  propane torch?
>
> Should help, but don't forget that most "rust bust stuff" is flammable.
>  Get
> it good and hot, then try twisting the pipes.  Wrapping a wet towel around
> the part that goes inside (to create a temporary thermal gradient) may
> help
> too.  Once they start to move a little, dose with PB Blaster then keep
> twisting back and forth.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 28 21:22:20 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 22:22:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] $4,100 collected so far
Message-ID: <001601c87a8a$afb55030$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

thank you to all of you!   I think there's a Stag in JonMac's future . . .

From emanteno at comcast.net  Fri Feb 29 04:36:39 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 11:36:39 +0000
Subject: [TR] $4,100 collected so far
Message-ID: <022920081136.6829.47C7EE4700012C5A00001AAD2200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net> 

> http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/ 
> 
> thank you to all of you! I think there's a Stag in JonMac's future . . . 

There is. It's already been acquired, and we all get our assignments for the restoration starting Sunday at our monthly ISOA meeting.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Feb 29 05:46:27 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 07:46:27 EST
Subject: [TR] $4,100 collected so far --- now ISOA At Work
Message-ID: <c46.2c77760e.34f958a3@cs.com>

Irv,

The ISOA  involvement really makes the project secure and justifies the 
pledges for the Stag. Never was there a more enthusiastic, talented, and humorous, 
group. (It wouldnt suprise me if the ISOA's great rock group, The Spinal 
Tappets, came up with a Stag/JonMac Tune)

Joe A



> There is. It's already been acquired, and we all get our assignments for 
> the restoration starting Sunday at our monthly ISOA meeting.
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
> 

   </HTML>

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Fri Feb 29 06:34:28 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 08:34:28 EST
Subject: [TR] new TR4/4A window winders..
Message-ID: <c39.2719bcdf.34f963e4@aol.com>

news flash
'Good used' TR4/4A 'window winders' (especially the driver's side) are real
hard to find. The driver-side mechanisms take a beating - sometimes having
their teeth strip right off the 'fan' gear after years of use.
Now I see MossUK (MossUS too?) have brand new mechanisms on offer for  #59.95
in case you need.. see 'em at:
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=7593#L@##H

Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74<BR><BR><BR>**************<BR>Ideas to please picky eaters.
Watch video on AOL Living.<BR>
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duf
fy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)</HTML>

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Feb 29 07:29:51 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:29:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Boyd Coddington
Message-ID: <001b01c87adf$8d54cde0$210110ac@bobspc>

He wasn't a Triumph guy but he sure built some cool looking Hot Rods and he
died Wednesday at age 63 http://tinyurl.com/25vsv6

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1303 - Release Date: 2/28/2008
12:14 PM

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Fri Feb 29 08:31:47 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:31:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Boyd Coddington
References: <001b01c87adf$8d54cde0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <00ae01c87ae8$33409150$0200a8c0@Desktop>

what kill him

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 9:29 AM
Subject: [TR] Boyd Coddington


> He wasn't a Triumph guy but he sure built some cool looking Hot Rods and 
> he
> died Wednesday at age 63 http://tinyurl.com/25vsv6
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1303 - Release Date: 2/28/2008
> 12:14 PM
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Feb 29 08:38:13 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:38:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  Boyd Coddington
In-Reply-To: <00ae01c87ae8$33409150$0200a8c0@Desktop>
References: <001b01c87adf$8d54cde0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<00ae01c87ae8$33409150$0200a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802291036160.4946@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008, Craig wrote:

> what kill him

The article I read indicated that he had some sort of liver problem.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Feb 29 10:10:27 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:10:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 gauge bezel bubber
In-Reply-To: <d65.219f27f2.34f87e27@aol.com>
References: <d65.219f27f2.34f87e27@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005e01c87af5$fccc1af0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Interesting site, thanks for sharing.  

It is the first on-line retailer that I have seen that recommends sending
cash "wrapped up in writing paper" for payment of your purchase.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
FordneyNJ at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 2:14 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 gauge bezel bubber

Paul ,
Try British Car Cottage Industries at   www.britcot.com    
These are enthusiasts who made some interesting items.
NFI




  Rodney Ford                                                           TR4A

IRS    CTC60536L          
  Brick,  NJ                                                               
TR7 Spider   TPVDJ8AA 400612

                                        
                                            President, 
                              Positive Earth Drivers Club
                        


**************
Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch
video on AOL Living.
      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-du
ffy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From Roger at rw-architect.com  Fri Feb 29 10:27:17 2008
From: Roger at rw-architect.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:27:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 front apron
In-Reply-To: <CB5535BF7EC444F0AD016B50E49EFEEA@rwa.local>
References: <CB5535BF7EC444F0AD016B50E49EFEEA@rwa.local>
Message-ID: <94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F0ACB2@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>

Well, it all started with the radiator cap. I noticed it seemed a little
loose, so I ordered a new one. I decided it was time to switch to a
skirted thermostat, so I got one of those too. Seems too easy - right?

Now with the new cap, the system is getting pressurized really well and
I have a new leaking seam in the radiator below the extended filler
neck. The radiator is ancient and I was not completely surprised by
this. Even though I never have any overheating problems, probably
because of the mild weather in northern California, I decided to go with
the Wizard aluminum radiator. The hoses look a little ratty, so I have
ordered new hoses and clamps. So, replacing a $6 cap has once again
turned into a major project.

I have never pulled the front apron on a TR3 (actual a '60 TR3A).
Removal and installation seems pretty straightforward in the service
manual, although it would have helped if they had included a few
pictures or diagrams.

Does anyone have any helpful tips on removing the front apron, so I
don't screw this one up?

Roger Wilson
'60 TR3
'69 Morris Minor Traveller

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Feb 29 10:42:44 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:42:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 front apron
In-Reply-To: <94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F0ACB2@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
References: <CB5535BF7EC444F0AD016B50E49EFEEA@rwa.local>
	<94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F0ACB2@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
Message-ID: <006401c87afa$7e425c30$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Everything comes off the front, it's pretty straightforward.  Bumper, grill,
disconnect the headlights & signals and all the bolts on either side.  Be
sure to lift it straight out and forward to avoid and damage to the apron or
the rest of the body.

OR, if you are ready for the next logical step in your progression of the
radiator cap replacement check this guy's solution:
http://www.performancedesign.net/oldsite/pdf/BM0404Sample.s.pdf


Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger
Wilson
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 10:27 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 front apron

Well, it all started with the radiator cap. I noticed it seemed a little
loose, so I ordered a new one. I decided it was time to switch to a skirted
thermostat, so I got one of those too. Seems too easy - right?

Now with the new cap, the system is getting pressurized really well and I
have a new leaking seam in the radiator below the extended filler neck. The
radiator is ancient and I was not completely surprised by this. Even though
I never have any overheating problems, probably because of the mild weather
in northern California, I decided to go with the Wizard aluminum radiator.
The hoses look a little ratty, so I have ordered new hoses and clamps. So,
replacing a $6 cap has once again turned into a major project.

I have never pulled the front apron on a TR3 (actual a '60 TR3A).
Removal and installation seems pretty straightforward in the service manual,
although it would have helped if they had included a few pictures or
diagrams.

Does anyone have any helpful tips on removing the front apron, so I don't
screw this one up?

Roger Wilson
'60 TR3
'69 Morris Minor Traveller
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri Feb 29 10:46:49 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:46:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 front apron
In-Reply-To: <94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F0ACB2@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
References: <CB5535BF7EC444F0AD016B50E49EFEEA@rwa.local>
	<94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F0ACB2@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
Message-ID: <36B8444B-1D2E-45C4-A32A-4D2E1B980AB6@cox.net>

Advice:
Make sure it is OK with your spouse to store the apron on a bed in the  
house!!  Other than that it is pretty straight forward.

John

On  29 Feb, 2008, at 10:27 AM, Roger Wilson wrote:

> Well, it all started with the radiator cap. I noticed it seemed a  
> little
> loose, so I ordered a new one. I decided it was time to switch to a
> skirted thermostat, so I got one of those too. Seems too easy - right?
>
> Now with the new cap, the system is getting pressurized really well  
> and
> I have a new leaking seam in the radiator below the extended filler
> neck. The radiator is ancient and I was not completely surprised by
> this. Even though I never have any overheating problems, probably
> because of the mild weather in northern California, I decided to go  
> with
> the Wizard aluminum radiator. The hoses look a little ratty, so I have
> ordered new hoses and clamps. So, replacing a $6 cap has once again
> turned into a major project.
>
> I have never pulled the front apron on a TR3 (actual a '60 TR3A).
> Removal and installation seems pretty straightforward in the service
> manual, although it would have helped if they had included a few
> pictures or diagrams.
>
> Does anyone have any helpful tips on removing the front apron, so I
> don't screw this one up?
>
> Roger Wilson
> '60 TR3
> '69 Morris Minor Traveller
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Fri Feb 29 10:46:28 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 12:46:28 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 front apron
Message-ID: <d45.22b53d65.34f99ef4@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/29/2008 9:28:04 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
Roger at rw-architect.com writes:

Well, it  all started with the radiator cap. I noticed it seemed a little
loose, so I  ordered a new one. I decided it was time to switch to a
skirted thermostat,  so I got one of those too. Seems too easy - right?

Now with the new  cap, the system is getting pressurized really well and
I have a new leaking  seam in the radiator below the extended filler
neck. The radiator is  ancient and I was not completely surprised by
this. Even though I never  have any overheating problems, probably
because of the mild weather in  northern California, I decided to go with
the Wizard aluminum radiator. The  hoses look a little ratty, so I have
ordered new hoses and clamps. So,  replacing a $6 cap has once again
turned into a major project.

I  have never pulled the front apron on a TR3 (actual a '60 TR3A).
Removal and  installation seems pretty straightforward in the service
manual, although  it would have helped if they had included a few
pictures or  diagrams.

Does anyone have any helpful tips on removing the front  apron, so I
don't screw this one up?

Roger Wilson
'60 TR3
'69  Morris Minor Traveller



Hi Roger,
Having owned TS41723L since 1964, I have had to remove my apron numerous  
times. Its not all that tough to do, but I can tell you what it took me several  
times to learn:
 
1. When you disconnect the wires for the front headlights and turn  signals 
etc,  no matter how much you THINK you know what goes where, you  can save time 
by labelling the wires. I use simple things like 1, 2, 3,  etc. and I just 
label  both sides  "1",or "2"  etc. without  regard for function. I usually use 
a strip of masking tape, but that is not very  satisfactory. I keep promising 
myself I'll buy some string-tags but haven't  yet.
 
 
2. Straighten out the tabs for the chrome molding and either have some help  
to hold it out of the way or somehow prevent the chrome strip from flopping 
back  into the paint where those razor sharp edges will make sharp gouges. I 
have  scraped a couple of fresh paint jobs this way. I have recently taken   ( on 
my Jaguar) to taping towels all around where it may strike.
 
Take your time, and good luck!
 
Mike Moore 



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Fri Feb 29 10:51:05 2008
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 17:51:05 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fuel gauge follow up
Message-ID: <950EE48A-8F21-4822-99C0-E6F55C78F68F@tcd.ie>

Taking Randall's and other advice I have been testing the gauge with  
the sender not in the tank, this allows me to move the float and  
observe movement on the gauge. I had already fitted a separate earth  
to the gauge as suggested and held the body of the sender to earth  
while testing. The gauge appears to operate backwards, as I lift the  
float the needle moves to empty, and vice versa. Having looked at the  
web site suggested I do appear to have a different instrument,  
although it is Jager with convex glass it has spade connections on the  
back, could this be from early TR4?. I had this gauge fully restored,  
if it is from a TR4 does it work in the same way? Hoping I have not  
wasted good money on restoring this fella!
Regards
John

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 29 10:57:13 2008
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:57:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 front apron
In-Reply-To: <d45.22b53d65.34f99ef4@aol.com>
References: <d45.22b53d65.34f99ef4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F25880E6-03E1-4920-9A42-DC2143849A64@sbcglobal.net>

Get some of the 2 inch wide blue painters removable masking tape and  
tape the areas on both sides of the chrome molding. This will keep the  
tabs from scratching the paint during removal and installation. The  
Blue masking tape protects the paint and is easy to remove... don't  
use regular masking tape since it can be very difficult to remove if  
left on the paint for very long.

Mike Denman
On Feb 29, 2008, at 9:46 AM, MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/29/2008 9:28:04 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> Roger at rw-architect.com writes:
>
> Well, it  all started with the radiator cap. I noticed it seemed a  
> little
> loose, so I  ordered a new one. I decided it was time to switch to a
> skirted thermostat,  so I got one of those too. Seems too easy -  
> right?
>
> Now with the new  cap, the system is getting pressurized really well  
> and
> I have a new leaking  seam in the radiator below the extended filler
> neck. The radiator is  ancient and I was not completely surprised by
> this. Even though I never  have any overheating problems, probably
> because of the mild weather in  northern California, I decided to go  
> with
> the Wizard aluminum radiator. The  hoses look a little ratty, so I  
> have
> ordered new hoses and clamps. So,  replacing a $6 cap has once again
> turned into a major project.
>
> I  have never pulled the front apron on a TR3 (actual a '60 TR3A).
> Removal and  installation seems pretty straightforward in the service
> manual, although  it would have helped if they had included a few
> pictures or  diagrams.
>
> Does anyone have any helpful tips on removing the front  apron, so I
> don't screw this one up?
>
> Roger Wilson
> '60 TR3
> '69  Morris Minor Traveller
>
>
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri Feb 29 11:19:57 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 11:19:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 front apron
In-Reply-To: <F25880E6-03E1-4920-9A42-DC2143849A64@sbcglobal.net>
References: <d45.22b53d65.34f99ef4@aol.com>
	<F25880E6-03E1-4920-9A42-DC2143849A64@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <8726F5AF-72F5-45A4-B756-A775E7E7DD38@cox.net>

GREAT idea!!!

John


On  29 Feb, 2008, at 10:57 AM, Mike Denman wrote:

> Get some of the 2 inch wide blue painters removable masking tape and
> tape the areas on both sides of the chrome molding. This will keep the
> tabs from scratching the paint during removal and installation. The
> Blue masking tape protects the paint and is easy to remove... don't
> use regular masking tape since it can be very difficult to remove if
> left on the paint for very long.
>
> Mike Denman
> On Feb 29, 2008, at 9:46 AM, MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 2/29/2008 9:28:04 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>> Roger at rw-architect.com writes:
>>
>> Well, it  all started with the radiator cap. I noticed it seemed a
>> little
>> loose, so I  ordered a new one. I decided it was time to switch to a
>> skirted thermostat,  so I got one of those too. Seems too easy -
>> right?
>>
>> Now with the new  cap, the system is getting pressurized really well
>> and
>> I have a new leaking  seam in the radiator below the extended filler
>> neck. The radiator is  ancient and I was not completely surprised by
>> this. Even though I never  have any overheating problems, probably
>> because of the mild weather in  northern California, I decided to go
>> with
>> the Wizard aluminum radiator. The  hoses look a little ratty, so I
>> have
>> ordered new hoses and clamps. So,  replacing a $6 cap has once again
>> turned into a major project.
>>
>> I  have never pulled the front apron on a TR3 (actual a '60 TR3A).
>> Removal and  installation seems pretty straightforward in the service
>> manual, although  it would have helped if they had included a few
>> pictures or  diagrams.
>>
>> Does anyone have any helpful tips on removing the front  apron, so I
>> don't screw this one up?
>>
>> Roger Wilson
>> '60 TR3
>> '69  Morris Minor Traveller
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 29 11:43:30 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:43:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fuel gauge follow up
In-Reply-To: <950EE48A-8F21-4822-99C0-E6F55C78F68F@tcd.ie>
References: <950EE48A-8F21-4822-99C0-E6F55C78F68F@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <24bf01c87b02$fa77ded0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I do appear to have a different instrument,  
> although it is Jager with convex glass it has spade 
> connections on the  
> back, could this be from early TR4?

Unfortunately, that is very likely exactly what it is.  If so, it will have
round holes on the back instead of the two small adjustment slots with nuts;
and no markings as to which terminal is which (because it doesn't matter on
the TR4 gauge).  The reading will also change relatively slowly as you move
the sender, instead of instantly as with the TR2-3 gauge.

> if it is from a TR4 does it work in the same way? 

The inside of the gauge is totally different, and as you've noticed, it
works backwards to the TR2-3 gauge.  However, I believe you could use it by
finding a TR4 sender and adding a voltage stabilizer to the circuit.

Another route would be to sell your restored gauge and start over with the
right one.

Randall

From tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org  Fri Feb 29 11:55:05 2008
From: tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org (Terry Geiger)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 12:55:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fuel gauge follow up
References: <950EE48A-8F21-4822-99C0-E6F55C78F68F@tcd.ie>
	<24bf01c87b02$fa77ded0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <000801c87b04$9a98f420$041e14ac@aitinc.local>

Randall,

Since the TR4 also uses an electrical temperature gauge, isn't the voltage 
stabilizer designed to have the full load of both the temperature and fuel 
gauge in the circuit?  I would think adding a voltage stabilizer and the 
fuel gauge (without adding the electrical temperature gauge) would cause 
incorrect readings on the fuel gauge even if it was used with the correct 
TR4 fuel sender.

Terry Geiger
'74 Triumph TR6 | '63 Triumph Herald | '70 MGBGT | '84 Mercedes 300D Diesel
http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/


>
> The inside of the gauge is totally different, and as you've noticed, it
> works backwards to the TR2-3 gauge.  However, I believe you could use it 
> by
> finding a TR4 sender and adding a voltage stabilizer to the circuit.
>
>
> Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 29 12:26:58 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 11:26:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fuel gauge follow up
In-Reply-To: <000801c87b04$9a98f420$041e14ac@aitinc.local>
References: <950EE48A-8F21-4822-99C0-E6F55C78F68F@tcd.ie>
	<24bf01c87b02$fa77ded0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<000801c87b04$9a98f420$041e14ac@aitinc.local>
Message-ID: <24c301c87b09$0d0bac10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Since the TR4 also uses an electrical temperature gauge, 
> isn't the voltage 
> stabilizer designed to have the full load of both the 
> temperature and fuel 
> gauge in the circuit?

Actually, it will handle the load of up to 3 gauges.  But since it's
operation is independant of load, it will continue to work correctly with
only one gauge (or none).

Might be a good time to point out that it doesn't really "stabilize" the
voltage ... it's output swings between 0 volts and full battery voltage such
that the _average_ is 10 volts.  It actually works rather like a "heavy
duty" turn signal flasher, with a resistance heater and a bimetal strip that
runs a pair of contacts.  If you hook a test lamp or meter up to it, you can
see it "flash".

Or, you could always pick up one of the solid-state replacements on eBay,
which do hold a constant 10.0 volts output (and probably will handle more
gauges to boot).

Randall

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Fri Feb 29 13:56:01 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 15:56:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 front apron
In-Reply-To: <94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F0ACB2@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
References: <CB5535BF7EC444F0AD016B50E49EFEEA@rwa.local>
	<94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F0ACB2@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
Message-ID: <BAY109-W35DABDA3F210DFA334206AA5140@phx.gbl>

> Does anyone have any helpful tips on removing the front apron, so I> don't
screw this one up?> > Roger Wilson> '60 TR3> '69 Morris Minor Traveller

After you remove the front apron tape or otherwise secure the freed wing
beading to the car.

If you don't, it will catch your trouser leg every time you walk by the front
of the car.

I have experimented with this.

John H.

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Fri Feb 29 14:29:51 2008
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 21:29:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fuel gauge f.s
Message-ID: <F54DE42C-EE6C-4616-A695-02CD48D0D34B@tcd.ie>

After list advice circumstances have resulted in me having a fully  
reconditioned and un-used fuel gauge. This, it turns out is for an  
early TR4 as it has the convex glass and spade terminals on the back,  
the make is Jaeger. I will be happy if I can cover the cost of a  
replacement for my TR2, working and perhaps needing a refurbish or re- 
build. Or maybe I'll be lucky and there is a lister who would do a  
swap?.
John

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 29 18:15:08 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 19:15:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] anyone recognize this mirror?
Message-ID: <000801c87b39$b299df00$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

this showed up and i don't know what car its from

thanks!

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Feb 29 18:31:21 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 20:31:21 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 gauge bezel bubber
Message-ID: <cf2.2943a6d9.34fa0be9@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/29/2008 10:10:59 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
wbeech at flash.net writes:

Interesting site, thanks for sharing.  

It is the first  on-line retailer that I have seen that recommends sending
cash "wrapped up  in writing paper" for payment of your purchase.



Nah...Jon Mac prefers cash for his book...must not know the US postal  system 
very well.  Great book by the way, I reccomend it highly!
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Feb 29 18:37:56 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 20:37:56 EST
Subject: [TR] Fuel gauge follow up
Message-ID: <d68.22e01a1b.34fa0d74@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/29/2008 11:44:07 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

Another  route would be to sell your restored gauge and start over with the
right  one.

Randall




All is not lost, I'll give you $10 for it, sight unseen.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Fri Feb 29 19:18:58 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 21:18:58 EST
Subject: [TR] scuttle vent screws
Message-ID: <d5e.232b422b.34fa1712@aol.com>

hi
There are 4 screws that hold the scuttle vent to the scuttle on the TR3.
Any idea of size?
3/16?
#10
the dreaded BA?
thanks
Frank Fisher



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Feb 29 20:09:26 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 22:09:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question
Message-ID: <645FC865.0BB67AEB.00159EE9@cs.com>

i have a Magellan and love it!

more recently the FoT guys have been promoting the purchase of the 
GARMIN NUVI

I think you can get a socket from RADIO SHACK and install it.

Joe A

>Listers,
> 
>I don't recall this subject ever being addressed here, but would appreciate  
>any input. What brand and model GPS systems, if any, is anyone using? What  
>features do you find indispensable and which are really overrated?
> 
>I'm researching the TomTom, Garmin Nuvi, and Magellan brands. So far I  would 
>go with the
>"Speaks Street Name", "Traffic" and a 4.0 or larger screen. What else??  
>Other brands??
> 
>I guess the only thing that makes it a non-TR subject is the fact that most  
>TRs have no 12V outlet in which to plug it-at least mine doesn't.
> 
>Thanks!
> 
>Steve
>
>
>
>**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
>(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
>2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Feb 29 22:47:09 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 22:47:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] anyone recognize this mirror?
In-Reply-To: <000801c87b39$b299df00$800101df@garage.local>
References: <000801c87b39$b299df00$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <001801c87b5f$b1d3daa0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Looks like a TR3A early style, with the raw glass of the mirror exposed.
Later TR3As had a piece of protective plastic/rubber wrapped around the
outside edge.  My '58 (comm. 30766) has this style while my '59 (comm.
64974) has the later style.  Both are black with wrinkle paint finish.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!


 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Oliver
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 6:15 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack
Subject: [TR] anyone recognize this mirror?

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

this showed up and i don't know what car its from

thanks!
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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