From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Dec  1 04:27:01 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 06:27:01 EST
Subject: [TR] Anti rattle spring and plunger
Message-ID: <cd0.31ccd579.36652405@aol.com>

Well Fred, I can't argue with those comments.  It appears that I am  going to 
have to replace the shift lever if this happens again.  The hole  where the 
plunger fits is oblong and I guess what I should have asked, is there  an 
alternate solution to this problem?  Tossing the plunger and spring is  not 
permanent as the vibration rattle would soon drive me to a proper fix.  
 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your 
favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006)

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Dec  1 04:30:56 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 06:30:56 EST
Subject: [TR] Choke cable movement
Message-ID: <cd6.4041de8f.366524f0@aol.com>

Gary,
Have you cleaned and lubricated the cable inside the sheath?  You may  find 
that eons of crud is preventing smooth and full movement of the  cable.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your 
favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006)

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Dec  1 05:17:21 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 12:17:21 -0000
Subject: [TR] Choke cable movement
References: <cea.481399dd.3664d570@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F82FEA5C3C934F4EA39904386490D5B0@Bevan>

Gary - what you describe is a not unusual problem. In fact, it's identical to the one we're 
currently experiencing on the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Raffle Prize Spitfire in the UK as I write. 
Sounds to me that you need to loosen the clamp holding the cable in place and adjust it so it pulls 
the chokes firmly open. On "Spitty" we adopted the following procedure (until some 'know all' 
recommended a cable adjustment

1. Open door and get into car with top erected. Garage is narrow and surplus frontal body fat makes 
this a painful (and difficult) manoeuvre.
1a. Settle in seat and gasp a little at immediately previous exertions. Oaths are appropriate if you 
banged your head on the hoodirons in the process
2. Insert ignition key and turn on
3. Place both feet on dashboard and grab choke knob with both hands - not an easy action with the 
steering wheel in place
4. Pull hard until you hear plastic in knob beginning to crack as cable starts to come away from 
knob interior
5. Then pull some more by straightening legs
6. Cable should come out further - and suddenly, indicating chokes are now open.
7. Twist ignition key and blast engine into action with accompanying death rattle from empty oil 
filter

This treatment may seem unnecessarily violent? Perhaps - but it takes me back to the days of new 
Triumphs when this type of choke operation was the rule rather than the exception. It's all part of 
the 'originality' of the car and an essential element of the WGAS (who gives a ***t) philosophy that 
prevailed in abundance at the end of the Final Finish line.

Jonmac

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AA00727 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 5:51 AM
Subject: [TR] Choke cable movement


> The latest choke discussion brings up another problem with finishing  the
> restoration of my TR 3. I cannot pull the knob out far enough to actually  pull
> the "choke valve" down. We have to get under the hood and directly position
> the linkage beyond the fast idle position which as far as the knob and cable
> will move it. I have not taken time to investigate this yet as we have only
> started it a couple of times. Just thinking someone may have had this trouble
> and will be able to steer me toward a fix.
>
> Gary B
> **************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW
> AOL.com.
> (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Dec  1 05:24:19 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 07:24:19 EST
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A Steering Column
Message-ID: <cef.4876818e.36653173@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/30/2008 9:46:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes:

2.   Doe you insert the stator tube in the steering column and then  the
wire harness or do you install the wire harness in the stator tube,  then
insert the stator tube in the column?



Although I have done this alone a few times, it is much easier with  two.  I 
fully assembled the wheel, stator tube, wires, on the bench, then  taken a 
coat hanger and straightened it out like a long spear, tied a string to  one end, 
and shot it down the column and pulled it out so the string hangs out  on 
both ends.  Tie the wires with the string and one person guides the  stator tube 
and the other pulls the string.
If your wires are not already staggered in length (so that all the bullet  
connectors do not bunch up together) you might want to consider doing  that.  It 
is doable by taping them staggered but it is easier if they  are already that 
way when it goes in. 
 
Pay particular attention to Randall's note about making sure there are not  
stresses on the column as it is clamped up.  The steering is heavy enough  as 
it is without adding to it.  I lift the front wheels and move the  steering 
wheel lock to lock as I tighten to make sure that it is not getting  stiff 
anywhere from misaligned clamps.  Maybe that is overkill but it works  for me.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your 
favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006)

From ABosonetto at aol.com  Mon Dec  1 06:06:05 2008
From: ABosonetto at aol.com (ABosonetto at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 08:06:05 EST
Subject: [TR] automatic transmission
Message-ID: <cb1.3432d671.36653b3d@aol.com>

are there any sources for tr4 automatic transmissions or hand  clutches
 
al 1963 ttr4
 
**************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW 
AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002)

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Dec  1 06:06:56 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 08:06:56 EST
Subject: [TR] Choke cable movement
Message-ID: <c9e.40e7dbe0.36653b70@aol.com>

Jonmac, 
I believe you should assemble your posts on this subject into a manual of  
instruction on the use of the choke and offer through Moss Motors, much the same 
 as the SU manual.  I have found it to be most helpful, and although my cars  
do not start any better as the result of your advice, I do laugh out loud  
every time I start them, rather than furrow my brow and worry about what is to  
come when I turn the key.
 
Thanks
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your 
favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006)

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Mon Dec  1 06:48:17 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 07:48:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] automatic transmission
References: <cb1.3432d671.36653b3d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <32AEAEF794AB47309B656D42DCBE1277@KARL>

Hi Al -

I posted this to someone on the list (was it you?) a few months ago, who was 
looking for hand controls for a TR.

My friend John Bevins is a parapalegic and also a car and motorcycle 
enthusiast.  He's made hand controls for a number of cars and motorcycles. 
He's more than willing to advise and assist anyone who needs this sort of 
thing.

Here's his website with photos of the hand controls he's made for his 
Amphicar:

http://www.amphicar.net/minnow/controls_of.htm

Feel free to call him (best after 4PM, mountain time) or email
John Bevins
303-868-8384
jbevins61 at hotmail.com


> are there any sources for tr4 automatic transmissions or hand  clutches
>
> al 1963 ttr4

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon Dec  1 07:11:40 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 09:11:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] automatic transmission
In-Reply-To: <cb1.3432d671.36653b3d@aol.com>
References: <cb1.3432d671.36653b3d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W452B79D89E42D35F56F174A5010@phx.gbl>

> are there any sources for tr4 automatic transmissions or hand clutches> > al
1963 ttr4

An automatic transmission from a Triumph 2000 sedan will work. Needs just a
little modification, so I am told. Don't know where to find one offhand,
though. Someone will know.

John H.

From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Dec  1 09:00:11 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2008 16:00:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] Anti rattle spring and plunger
Message-ID: <120120081600.20886.49340A0B000CC5D60000519622058844849D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net>

I had this happen at the Funkonna at VTR 2007.  I ordered a new ball and spring to only have it happen again here in Florida. So now I'm driving without the ball and spring and the vibration/noise is not a problem. I guess the fix is to replace the shift lever and the ball and spring, but I'm happy the way things are. 
hope this helps
Tom
60 TR3A
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: DLylis at aol.com 

> Last Saturday my TR3A locked up in reverse. Fortunately, it was in the 
> garage at the time. The repair was a 30 minute remove the shift lever and 
> reposition the anti rattle plunger. It had rolled out of the hole in the shift 
> dog 
> and wedged itself kitty cornered. I turned it over so the worn/damaged edge 
> was in and turned the shift lever around so the device points forward 
> instead of back. I had thought of tossing it and not using it since it appears 
> that the hole in the shift dog is buggered and this is likely to happen again. 
> Comments? 
> 
> David Lylis 
> 69 TR6 CC26160L 
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO 

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  1 09:52:48 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 08:52:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] frame blasting
Message-ID: <755465.60430.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I had my tr-3 frame blasted 6 months ago here in Iowa for around $130 if
memory serves me right.  Looked good and took paint well.

gary n.

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Dec  1 10:09:27 2008
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 09:09:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk
Message-ID: <318329.36641.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am sorting out a TR6 that has sat for decades. I was on the road yesterday and when I shift up I can hear a clunk that appears to come from the right rear wheel or suspension. I am new to the TR6 thing (I've driven a TR3A for 17 years now) and am unsure where to start. ISTR reading something about TR6 clunking on the list past. Can someone clue me in?
     TIA,

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA
     1960 TR3A
     1974 TR6

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Dec  1 10:13:24 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2008 12:13:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A Steering Column
In-Reply-To: <cef.4876818e.36653173@aol.com>
References: <cef.4876818e.36653173@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20081201171337.0ECB31878A8@autox.team.net>

I do similar, but I use a long skinny dowel rod that has a little 
flex to tape a string to and use it to pull the string down the tube. 
Its smooth and easier for me I think. but hey, what works is what works!

Doug

At 07:24 AM 12/1/2008, DLylis at aol.com wrote:
>I
>fully assembled the wheel, stator tube, wires, on the bench, then  taken a
>coat hanger and straightened it out like a long spear, tied a string 
>to  one end,
>and shot it down the column and pulled it out so the string hangs out  on
>both ends.  Tie the wires with the string and one person guides 
>the  stator tube
>and the other pulls the string.

From rhelman at gmail.com  Mon Dec  1 10:26:30 2008
From: rhelman at gmail.com (Roger Helman)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 09:26:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk
In-Reply-To: <318329.36641.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <318329.36641.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <779de48e0812010926o70394882t970c7a493f5795cf@mail.gmail.com>

William check the diff mounts. They are pretty weak and tend to crack around
the  base of the mounting pins.

BTW I just resurected a 75 tr6 with my son peter. It drove for the first
time since 1994. we had to rebuild the fuel system completely but other than
that it is running very well now.

Good luck with yours.

Roger

From kentshrack at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  1 10:37:07 2008
From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 09:37:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 steering column
Message-ID: <32276.27716.qm@web57801.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

My tube was rough and dirty on the inside, so I took my .357 pistol cleaning
brush on the long rod with my drill and polished the inside
smooth. I straightened and arranged the 4 wires so they fit tight together and
put full length shrink wrap over them.  I coated the outside with graphite and
slid it down the tube.  I have the adjustable column and wanted to insure that
the wires would not bind on the tube.  As most know, adjustable columns adjust
from to close to way to close, so I never move it anyway.  Worked for me.
Kent Shrack TR3a, TS78563 O.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Dec  1 11:09:00 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 13:09:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk
In-Reply-To: <318329.36641.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <318329.36641.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9EB435F8167A4E91A70C2BAF8A2608CD@BOBSNEWPC>

Bill,
As pointed out the diff mounts are a weak point with the right front one
taking the brunt of the force. The cracks may be very obvious or not that
obvious unless you pick at it. I had to pick at mine to really see the
cracks. There's a couple of pretty good pictures about 1/2 way down this
page http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffMounts.htm 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 12:09 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk

     I am sorting out a TR6 that has sat for decades. I was on the road
yesterday and when I shift up I can hear a clunk that appears to come from
the right rear wheel or suspension. I am new to the TR6 thing (I've driven a
TR3A for 17 years now) and am unsure where to start. ISTR reading something
about TR6 clunking on the list past. Can someone clue me in?
     TIA,

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA
     1960 TR3A
     1974 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Dec  1 11:11:10 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2008 13:11:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A Steering Column
References: <cef.4876818e.36653173@aol.com>
	<20081201171337.0ECB31878A8@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C7CEA46DFAED4D9C88F8AA66BBEF42E5@fred8kwiskhcfu>

The tube "MUST" be in place in the column with the ==ANTI-RATTLERS== 
installed, then thread the wires as per previous directions.  "FT" 

From lee at automate-it.com  Mon Dec  1 11:34:19 2008
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 12:34:19 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk
In-Reply-To: <318329.36641.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <318329.36641.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2354.192.246.38.159.1228156459.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

I'm still chasing a small clunk too, here's some thoughts:

Diff mounts mentioned; other things to consider -

1. U. Joints. I found one that had a tiny amt of play.
2. Sliding splines. One of mine had an appreciable amt of play. I swapped in a
spare axle that I had, this made a huge difference. I removed both axles and
lubed both heavily with graphite/moly lube (MolyKote or other). This helped a
lot.
3. Also check trailing arm mounts on frame, if you have rust there they can
let go.
4. Check shock-to-trailing arm mount, just having a depleted bushing there can
cause a clunk.

 -Lee

>      I am sorting out a TR6 that has sat for decades. I was on the road
> yesterday and when I shift up I can hear a clunk that appears to come
> from the right rear wheel or suspension. I am new to the TR6 thing (I've
> driven a TR3A for 17 years now) and am unsure where to start. ISTR
> reading something about TR6 clunking on the list past. Can someone clue
> me in?

From emanteno at comcast.net  Mon Dec  1 11:56:43 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2008 18:56:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk
Message-ID: <120120081856.304.4934336B0001D120000001302216527966970A9D010507@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Lee Daniels" <lee at automate-it.com>

> 4. Check shock-to-trailing arm mount, just having a depleted bushing there can
> cause a clunk.


While you are rooting around the shocks, check to see that they are tightly mounted. One of mine used to work its way loose. I used longer bolts with nylocs to solve that. Also, make sure there isn't a broken shock. One of mine broke a mounting ear, and of course, that made a clunk.

HTH,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Mon Dec  1 12:33:49 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 11:33:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3197.1228156477.3542.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3197.1228156477.3542.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <05AF9AA633EF4E7599DC60CA844948B3@Induninwlaptop>

Bill,

I posted my findings about this very issue a few weeks ago; here it is
again-

The car is a 1967 TR4A, IRS; the issue is a rear end clunk upon take-off,
shift, and bumps. Having welded in enough extra support and reinforcement to
the IRS pins while the frame was bare, I was pretty certain I could cross
these off the list of possible causes. I even swapped out a diff unit
thinking it was a bad inner bearing (any one need a spare IRS diff??), but
still had the issue. It wasn't until I had bought a second hand half shaft
and was about to dismantle it to clean and check that I noticed there was
absolutely *NO* play in the sliding splines! I checked the axels on the car,
and sure enough, you could hear a very faint 'click' when you rotated the
halves against each other. Upon further inspection of the donor axle, I
found the splines to be heavily smeared with grease. Mine weren't of course
because I had cleaned them up nicely and didn't give thought to really
packing the grease in. After packing the grease in the spline cavity and
reassembling, I had a quiet and smooth riding 4A!

Moral of the story - if it slides, rotates, or rubs, pack it full of
grease!!

Brian
1967 TR4A, no clunk, clink, or clank!

------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 09:09:27 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <318329.36641.qm at web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

     I am sorting out a TR6 that has sat for decades. I was on the road
yesterday and when I shift up I can hear a clunk that appears to come from
the right rear wheel or suspension. I am new to the TR6 thing (I've driven a
TR3A for 17 years now) and am unsure where to start. ISTR reading something
about TR6 clunking on the list past. Can someone clue me in?
     TIA,

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA
     1960 TR3A
     1974 TR6

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Dec  1 12:50:34 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 19:50:34 -0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk
References: <120120081856.304.4934336B0001D120000001302216527966970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <69F1834B56EC4FC796AE2E8BB3E05966@Bevan>

Al the foregoing comments are relevant but there's one that most people missed. The TR6 rear 
suspension is the same as on the Triumph Big Six saloons and you get 'clunks' and 'boings' from the 
rear suspension too. Most times, this is because the bushes in the semi-trailing arms are worn and 
need replacement. You notice this condition when cornering and it's often accompanied by a slight 
rear end twitch as the back end settles into a new position. If splitting the rear half-shafts, a 
chalk line across the two halves before separating will ensure they go back into the same grooves on 
re-assembly.

Jonmac

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <emanteno at comcast.net>
To: "Lee Daniels" <lee at automate-it.com>; <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Clunk


> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Lee Daniels" <lee at automate-it.com>
>
>> 4. Check shock-to-trailing arm mount, just having a depleted bushing there can
>> cause a clunk.
>
>
> While you are rooting around the shocks, check to see that they are tightly mounted. One of mine 
> used to work its way loose. I used longer bolts with nylocs to solve that. Also, make sure there 
> isn't a broken shock. One of mine broke a mounting ear, and of course, that made a clunk.
>
> HTH,
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From peter at nosimport.com  Mon Dec  1 13:45:34 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2008 14:45:34 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks
In-Reply-To: <AF2BDF2C94034BC4A5B506874C4C62FD@Bevan>
References: <AF2BDF2C94034BC4A5B506874C4C62FD@Bevan>
Message-ID: <200812011245571.SM11356@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com>

Listerati,
	Do TR6 transmission have a penchant for leaking due to a lack of a 
vent? Or is there a vent someplace. A local acquaintance has been 
told by a transmission shop that the reason his several-times rebuilt 
transmission is leaking is because there is no venting, and boy, he 
sure would like to drill into the case and install one. !!
	
	Thanks     Peter C.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Dec  1 14:06:24 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 16:06:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks
In-Reply-To: <200812011245571.SM11356@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com>
References: <AF2BDF2C94034BC4A5B506874C4C62FD@Bevan>
	<200812011245571.SM11356@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <C317A5C307FD48A592C0FD1F70647BDB@BOBSNEWPC>

They're not airtight what with the way the shifter box is constructed. I
mean you can fill these things by pouring gear oil in the top when the shift
lever goes so I'm not sure what an air vent would do. The differentials do
have a vent however. 

My TR6 tranny leaked like a sieve but the Toyota 5 speed that I put in is
dry as a bone and the only thing I did to it was replace the front and rear
seals.

Let's face it...........Triumphs leak! :-) 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Caldwell
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 3:46 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks

Listerati,
	Do TR6 transmission have a penchant for leaking due to a lack of a
vent? Or is there a vent someplace. A local acquaintance has been told by a
transmission shop that the reason his several-times rebuilt transmission is
leaking is because there is no venting, and boy, he sure would like to drill
into the case and install one. !!
	
	Thanks     Peter C.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Dec  1 14:14:15 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 16:14:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk
In-Reply-To: <69F1834B56EC4FC796AE2E8BB3E05966@Bevan>
References: <120120081856.304.4934336B0001D120000001302216527966970A9D010507@comcast.net>
	<69F1834B56EC4FC796AE2E8BB3E05966@Bevan>
Message-ID: <BAB49FB7D30741E4B7766BC91E47C8EF@BOBSNEWPC>

I thought the half shafts on a TR6 can only go together one way as there's
one big spline on each half that has to go mate. When I pulled mine I did
make sure that I kept the left and right sides separated.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 2:51 PM
To: emanteno at comcast.net; Lee Daniels; wsb1960tr3a at att.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Clunk

Al the foregoing comments are relevant but there's one that most people
missed. The TR6 rear suspension is the same as on the Triumph Big Six
saloons and you get 'clunks' and 'boings' from the rear suspension too. Most
times, this is because the bushes in the semi-trailing arms are worn and
need replacement. You notice this condition when cornering and it's often
accompanied by a slight rear end twitch as the back end settles into a new
position. If splitting the rear half-shafts, a chalk line across the two
halves before separating will ensure they go back into the same grooves on
re-assembly.

Jonmac

----- Original Message -----
From: <emanteno at comcast.net>
To: "Lee Daniels" <lee at automate-it.com>; <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Clunk


> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Lee Daniels" <lee at automate-it.com>
>
>> 4. Check shock-to-trailing arm mount, just having a depleted bushing
there can
>> cause a clunk.
>
>
> While you are rooting around the shocks, check to see that they are
tightly mounted. One of mine 
> used to work its way loose. I used longer bolts with nylocs to solve that.
Also, make sure there 
> isn't a broken shock. One of mine broke a mounting ear, and of course,
that made a clunk.
>
> HTH,
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec  1 14:59:43 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 13:59:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks
In-Reply-To: <C317A5C307FD48A592C0FD1F70647BDB@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <AF2BDF2C94034BC4A5B506874C4C62FD@Bevan><200812011245571.SM11356@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com>
	<C317A5C307FD48A592C0FD1F70647BDB@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <3A5FF874596D4A7AA5D87D65C4AFF1C3@jdnet.deere.com>

> They're not airtight what with the way the shifter box is 
> constructed. I
> mean you can fill these things by pouring gear oil in the top 
> when the shift
> lever goes

Huh?  I thought we were talking about a TR6 transmission here ... the bottom
of the shift lever is open to the outside world, but there are supposed to
be oil seals where the 3 shafts enter the casting.  Granted, they do
frequently leak, but that's mostly because the replacement seals (which are
just standard O-rings) don't fit properly (plus many rebuilders overlook
replacing them).  I believe Herman machines spacers to make the O-rings fit
snugly; but I found some packing rings at MMC that accomplished the same
thing.

Not sure that it applies to all combinations, but my TR6 and Stag boxes have
a small plain vent hole near the front of the shift cover.  On models with
overdrive, of course, the vent in the OD unit also serves to vent the main
box.

There is even a service note to check that the vent is clear, if the seals
leak.
http://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/technical/1-d-1.htm

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec  1 15:05:23 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 14:05:23 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk
In-Reply-To: <69F1834B56EC4FC796AE2E8BB3E05966@Bevan>
References: <120120081856.304.4934336B0001D120000001302216527966970A9D010507@comcast.net>
	<69F1834B56EC4FC796AE2E8BB3E05966@Bevan>
Message-ID: <59BAF72322304FD993526B6E8B9F899F@jdnet.deere.com>

> If splitting the rear half-shafts, a 
> chalk line across the two halves before separating will 
> ensure they go back into the same grooves on 
> re-assembly.

The other cars might be different, but my Stag half shafts definitely are
indexed so they go together only one way.  Of course I discovered that AFTER
spending a rather frustrating 20 minutes trying to find a way to make a mark
on them that would survive cleaning!

Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Dec  1 16:05:53 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 18:05:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks
In-Reply-To: <3A5FF874596D4A7AA5D87D65C4AFF1C3@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <AF2BDF2C94034BC4A5B506874C4C62FD@Bevan><200812011245571.SM11356@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com><C317A5C307FD48A592C0FD1F70647BDB@BOBSNEWPC>
	<3A5FF874596D4A7AA5D87D65C4AFF1C3@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <C7910A89029A4B4B8B95F2D42BD0686F@BOBSNEWPC>

Oops My bad......with the Toyota tranny you can fill it from the shift lever
area. Basically pour in enough gear oil until it comes out the side fill
hole. There's a picture of what I mean here
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/60thBirthday/5%20Speed/Images/GearOilReminder
.jpg

Sorry for confusing things! 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 5:00 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks

> They're not airtight what with the way the shifter box is constructed. 
> I mean you can fill these things by pouring gear oil in the top when 
> the shift lever goes

Huh?  I thought we were talking about a TR6 transmission here ... the bottom
of the shift lever is open to the outside world, but there are supposed to
be oil seals where the 3 shafts enter the casting.  Granted, they do
frequently leak, but that's mostly because the replacement seals (which are
just standard O-rings) don't fit properly (plus many rebuilders overlook
replacing them).  I believe Herman machines spacers to make the O-rings fit
snugly; but I found some packing rings at MMC that accomplished the same
thing.

Not sure that it applies to all combinations, but my TR6 and Stag boxes have
a small plain vent hole near the front of the shift cover.  On models with
overdrive, of course, the vent in the OD unit also serves to vent the main
box.

There is even a service note to check that the vent is clear, if the seals
leak.
http://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/technical/1-d-1.htm

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Dec  1 16:05:56 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 23:05:56 -0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks
References: <AF2BDF2C94034BC4A5B506874C4C62FD@Bevan><200812011245571.SM11356@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com>
	<C317A5C307FD48A592C0FD1F70647BDB@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <117EAAE6018A40C2B9CA011839464E2D@Bevan>

Bob Danielson wrote:

> Let's face it...........Triumphs leak! :-)

Smiley notwithstanding, ALL British cars leaked somewhere or other - and most Triumphs leaked 
everywhere. Ask any early Herald owner.
The fact is that you people still haven't cottoned on to the fact that leaks - good, satisfying, 
meaningful leaks that really upset owners of newly surfaced driveways, were a design feature built 
into British cars with "hand-tooled loving care by wizened old craftsmen." That was why you got 
valve covers you could easily crush with 500 ft/lbs of torque on the nuts, cork gaskets and crank 
oil seals made out of old fag packets.
Don't forget, the majority of cars made in the UK were sold in the UK and we Brits *expected* them 
to leak. If they hadn't, questions would have been asked in the House of Commons and people would 
have written protest letters to the Editor of The Times newspaper. Fact is, Brit cars have always 
leaked since the beginning of time - so why go out of your way to do something about it? Our weather 
is permanently leaking, so why shouldn't our cars? In any case what do you expect for a thousand 
quid at 1970 prices - surely not *Japanese* build quality and reliability?????????????
You paid peanuts, you got a monkey. End of story.
Hey, that was why you also got a 12,000 mile warranty in the sure and certain knowledge you'd never 
need it because the car would be stuck at the dealer for the first year of its life waiting for 
back-ordered parts that never arrived and allowing the rust that started in England, accelerated as 
deck cargo across the Atlantic, to really take hold.
And you guys are all still grumbling about this, thirty or forty years later.
I give up!

Jonmac :) 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Dec  1 16:15:06 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 23:15:06 -0000
Subject: [TR] automatic transmission
References: <cb1.3432d671.36653b3d@aol.com>
	<BLU143-W452B79D89E42D35F56F174A5010@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C9814F8C02D244C2947AA597AB5AE49C@Bevan>

John Herrera wrote:

> An automatic transmission from a Triumph 2000 sedan will work. Needs just a
> little modification, so I am told. Don't know where to find one offhand,
> though. Someone will know.

a Type 35 Borg Warner should fit from a pre facelift Triumph 2000 Mk 1. Plenty here in the UK. Pick 
one up - or get someone to buy one for you at Stoneleigh Spares Day in March (?) 2009 or submit an 
enquiry via the 2000 2500 2.5 Register website at www.t2000register.org.uk

Jonmac 

From cm.sherman at verizon.net  Mon Dec  1 16:20:55 2008
From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman)
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2008 18:20:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] Call for Action - Please help Vote for my Triumph in NYTimes
Message-ID: <27E8B68785CA4FD983B4AC26DE159927@DellXPS720>

Much to my surprise and complete delight, my 1960 Triumph (Italia 2000 GT
Coupe - TR3 bodied by Vignale) is one of the 30 finalists in the 2008 New
York Times Collectible Car of the Year Contest!
 
Please go to
<http://collectiblecars.nytimes.com/Contest/Vote.asp#COL802181>
http://collectiblecars.nytimes.com/Contest/Vote.asp#COL802181 and Vote for
my car - every vote counts!
Voting will be open to the public until Dec 30th, 2008.
One vote per person per day. 
 
The winner will be featured in a New York Times article and will be
announced in February 2009.
Last year's winner was a 1959 Truimph TR3A - let's show them Triumphs' rule!
 
 
Thanks in advance for your time, consideration and support.
 
Corey Sherman
917.239.5486

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Mon Dec  1 16:23:05 2008
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 18:23:05 EST
Subject: [TR] Early TR3 Steering Column Needed
Message-ID: <bef.384defd8.3665cbd9@aol.com>

My partner and I are restoring a 1958 Morgan which suffered a major left 
front hit about 30 years ago.   In the accident, the steering column was bent 
beyond our ability to repair it, thus we are seeking a useable replacement.   It 
must be the single shaft column from a TR2 or early TR3.   Can anyone in 
Triumph Land help us with this part?
Thanks in advance!
George Haynes


**************
Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your 
email, your favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&amp;icid=aolcom40vanity&amp;ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006)

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Dec  1 16:28:34 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2008 18:28:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks
In-Reply-To: <117EAAE6018A40C2B9CA011839464E2D@Bevan>
Message-ID: <49342CD2.7279.B1A11A4@localhost>

On 1 Dec 2008 at 23:05, John Macartney wrote:

> The fact is that you people still haven't cottoned on to the fact
> that leaks - good, satisfying, meaningful leaks that really upset
> owners of newly surfaced driveways, were a design feature built
> into British cars with "hand-tooled loving care by wizened old
> craftsmen."

Which that's just another way of saying you invented the external 
lubrication system, now isn't it?


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Dec  1 16:32:33 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 18:32:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] J.M. Wagner Sales, Ltd
In-Reply-To: <OF5A6C6EC2.5A55CF85-ON85257512.00751112-85257512.0075893D@us.ibm.com>
References: <OF5A6C6EC2.5A55CF85-ON85257512.00751112-85257512.0075893D@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <C56096DF6DE5478C8CB552BDA08EA6AC@BOBSNEWPC>

David.........I forwarded this to the Triumph Mail List because I know
Justin often monitors it. Maybe someone there knows what's going on.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David B Johnson
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 4:24 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] J.M. Wagner Sales, Ltd

List,

Has anyone been able to contact Justin Wagner or know how to contact him
regarding his silicone valve cover gasket?
I ordered one several weeks ago and sent payment to the address listed on
his website with no response to date.  His gasket gets rave reviews and I'd
sure like to have one, but he sure makes it tough to get one!

Dave
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec  1 17:03:17 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 16:03:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] J.M. Wagner Sales, Ltd
In-Reply-To: <C56096DF6DE5478C8CB552BDA08EA6AC@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <OF5A6C6EC2.5A55CF85-ON85257512.00751112-85257512.0075893D@us.ibm.com>
	<C56096DF6DE5478C8CB552BDA08EA6AC@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <395CEB2C3A1B433E870636E406C50BEF@jdnet.deere.com>

> David.........I forwarded this to the Triumph Mail List because I know
> Justin often monitors it. Maybe someone there knows what's going on.

I don't know if it is the case this time, but I know that Justin's "day job"
sometimes occupies all of his waking hours for weeks at a time.  Generally
after his contract ends, he will recuperate for a few days and then start
catching up on Triumph matters (like gasket sales).

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Dec  1 17:21:14 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 19:21:14 EST
Subject: [TR] Anti rattle spring and plunger
Message-ID: <c73.41b5c60f.3665d97a@aol.com>

Tom,
Thanks.  I was lucky the first time in that it happened in the  garage.  
Given the rules of Karma the next time I will have a suit on and  30 miles from 
home.  I was concerned about the rattle (as it is called anti  rattle).  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your 
favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006)

From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com  Mon Dec  1 18:17:52 2008
From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 20:17:52 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks
Message-ID: <20859300.1228180673112.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I can't figure out what all the fuss is. My TR6 doesn't leak a drop. There's no telling how many miles it has on it. When I found it in 2004 it had been sitting since 1988. I put new seals in the front and rear of the engine and transmission. The only leaks I have are the ones I cause when I change the oil. The differential was leaking so I changed out the seals and no more leaks. Seems to me that if the seals, and the surfaces being sealed, are in good shape then the English engines are as tight as the Japanese engines. Others may disagree - and that's okay - cause when I'm riding down the road, top down, engine purring, there's nothing that can take the smile off my face - leaks or no leaks. Cheers to the Brits for having made these incredible cars.

Doug Nelson
74TR6


-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com>
>Sent: Dec 1, 2008 6:28 PM
>To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks
>
>On 1 Dec 2008 at 23:05, John Macartney wrote:
>
>> The fact is that you people still haven't cottoned on to the fact
>> that leaks - good, satisfying, meaningful leaks that really upset
>> owners of newly surfaced driveways, were a design feature built
>> into British cars with "hand-tooled loving care by wizened old
>> craftsmen."
>
>Which that's just another way of saying you invented the external 
>lubrication system, now isn't it?
>
>
>-- 
>Jim Muller
>jimmuller at rcn.com
>'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>You are subscribed as dmnlaw at peoplepc.com
>
>http://www.team.net/archive


________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Dec  1 18:35:25 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 20:35:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 steering column
References: <32276.27716.qm@web57801.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004d01c9541e$40b4e9c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Why not lubricate with WD-40?
Paul
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kent Shrack" <kentshrack at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 12:37 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 steering column


> My tube was rough and dirty on the inside, so I took my .357 pistol 
> cleaning
> brush on the long rod with my drill and polished the inside
> smooth. I straightened and arranged the 4 wires so they fit tight together 
> and
> put full length shrink wrap over them.  I coated the outside with graphite 
> and
> slid it down the tube.  I have the adjustable column and wanted to insure 
> that
> the wires would not bind on the tube.  As most know, adjustable columns 
> adjust
> from to close to way to close, so I never move it anyway.  Worked for me.
> Kent Shrack TR3a, TS78563 O.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 5.7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec  1 18:42:48 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 17:42:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 steering column
In-Reply-To: <004d01c9541e$40b4e9c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <32276.27716.qm@web57801.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<004d01c9541e$40b4e9c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <22D89ACAB7054E528A83153BCCFA972B@jdnet.deere.com>

> Why not lubricate with WD-40?

1) Oil is not kind to wires and insulation, even automotive grade "oil
resistant" ones.

2) WD-40 is not a very good lubricant.  It eventually dries up and becomes
gummy.

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Dec  1 19:26:22 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 21:26:22 EST
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks
Message-ID: <d35.3ffe9b59.3665f6ce@aol.com>

Hey, if I fix the leaks then I will have to pay $700 to powder coat the  
chassis.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your 
favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec  1 19:40:15 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 21:40:15 EST
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks
Message-ID: <d3d.322e7200.3665fa0f@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/1/2008 2:46:03 PM Central Standard Time, 
peter at nosimport.com writes: 
>     Do TR6 transmission have a penchant for leaking due to a lack of a 
> vent? Or is there a vent someplace. A local acquaintance has been 
> told by a transmission shop that the reason his several-times rebuilt 
> transmission is leaking is because there is no venting, and boy, he 
> sure would like to drill into the case and install one. !!
> 
I made a special ventilated bolt for mine.  I drilled a piece of threaded rod 
(cut off bolt, actually) and made a cap with drillings to allow wentilation.

The transmission still leaked.

Good luck and if you find a solution, let me know.

Dave

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Dec  1 19:53:41 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 21:53:41 EST
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clunk
Message-ID: <c8a.2ec05d34.3665fd35@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/1/2008 2:51:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

If  splitting the rear half-shafts, a 
chalk line across the two halves before  separating will ensure they go back 
into the same grooves on  
re-assembly.



Do they not have one double groove so they can only go back the way  they 
came?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your 
favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006)

From nogera at worldnet.att.net  Mon Dec  1 22:08:44 2008
From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 23:08:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] Cam Timing
Message-ID: <3273154479FB49A8B18553EB34F6D865@Carroom>

The TR3 engine that I am rebuilding came to me in boxes so assembly is not
the opposite of disassembly. The latest problem I have discovered is the cam
wheel was not attached to the cam shaft. From my web research I have learned
that the mounting holes on the wheel are off center so that the cam timing
can be adjusted by rotating the mounting holes. I can't find any marks that
would indicate which mounting holes were mates.  Does this mean I need to
obtain a degree wheel? If so what is the procedure to degree the cam? Any
secrets as to how to correctly mate the holes ?

Second question, the rotors in the oil pump are beyond the limits. NWBP's
offers the rebuild kit ( rotors only) and a complete pump at twice the price
of the rotors. Any recommendations as to whether the full pump is worth the
extra cost?

Bob

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Dec  2 04:29:05 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 06:29:05 EST
Subject: [TR] Cam Timing
Message-ID: <d41.2dfcffae.36667601@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/2/2008 12:08:58 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
nogera at worldnet.att.net writes:

I can't  find any marks that
would indicate which mounting holes were  mates.


First I would highly recommend getting a Bentley manual.  There should  be a 
prick punch mark at the edge of one of the holes on the wheel that  
corresponds to one of the holes on the cam.  As well there should be a  scribe mark on 
both the cam wheel (large) and crank wheel (small) that point to  each other at 
#1 TDC. If you have neither then it is possible that the wheels  have been 
replaced which also raises the possibility that the cam has been  changed.  
IIWY I would make an attempt to find out what you have for a cam and  if it 
is not a stock cam then the stock timing will not necessarily apply.
INHO, this you need to know for sure as correcting it at a  later time will 
be a real pain.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your 
favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006)

From auprichard at comcast.net  Tue Dec  2 08:25:54 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 10:25:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
In-Reply-To: <d41.2dfcffae.36667601@aol.com>
References: <d41.2dfcffae.36667601@aol.com>
Message-ID: <57AC490B2DB34CE89CCE730448F4A99C@DCH6RFC1>

Team:

4 years ago I bought TS51185 from a guy in Connecticut and got a notarized
bill of sale.  Having now gotten the car to a point (running, almost ready
for paint, hopefully less than a year from finished) where I would like it
to be insured, I applied for a Massachusetts Title.  Well, apparently our
great commonwealth recently enacted a law of "no new titles" and are
refusing to accept my application without a previous title.  I explained
that the guy who sold it to me probably never had a title, and certainly is
not going to be interested in going about getting one in retrospect.  The
lady's reply ?  "Well, I guess you won't be driving it anytime soon"

Has anyone come across this type of thing before ?  Any Advice ?

A frustrated,

Andrew Uprichard
TR3B:  TCF 191L (titled)
TR3A:  TS 51185L (who knows......)

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Tue Dec  2 08:41:01 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 10:41:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
References: <d41.2dfcffae.36667601@aol.com>
	<57AC490B2DB34CE89CCE730448F4A99C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <057e01c95494$62046d00$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Andy,
Try this. I have friends who have used this service to acquire titles for 
campers where in some states they are required and others they are not. 
Always proves to be interesting when trying to get something that never 
existed in the first place. The car should not be a problem.
http://www.its-titles.com/
Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 10:25 AM
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst


> Team:
>
> 4 years ago I bought TS51185 from a guy in Connecticut and got a notarized
> bill of sale.  Having now gotten the car to a point (running, almost ready
> for paint, hopefully less than a year from finished) where I would like it
> to be insured, I applied for a Massachusetts Title.  Well, apparently our
> great commonwealth recently enacted a law of "no new titles" and are
> refusing to accept my application without a previous title.  I explained
> that the guy who sold it to me probably never had a title, and certainly 
> is
> not going to be interested in going about getting one in retrospect.  The
> lady's reply ?  "Well, I guess you won't be driving it anytime soon"
>
> Has anyone come across this type of thing before ?  Any Advice ?
>
> A frustrated,
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> TR3B:  TCF 191L (titled)
> TR3A:  TS 51185L (who knows......)
> _______________________________________________

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Dec  2 08:43:27 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 08:43:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
In-Reply-To: <57AC490B2DB34CE89CCE730448F4A99C@DCH6RFC1>
References: <d41.2dfcffae.36667601@aol.com>
	<57AC490B2DB34CE89CCE730448F4A99C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <E53421429A2F4C6EBF8600B4CE3F8350@newcomputer>

It sounds more like "Government employees at their worst"!

I would try appealing directly to the state department of motor vehicles and
ask for their assistance.  Be sure to include a complete explanation of the
circumstances.

Good Luck,
Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 8:26 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst

Team:

4 years ago I bought TS51185 from a guy in Connecticut and got a notarized
bill of sale.  Having now gotten the car to a point (running, almost ready
for paint, hopefully less than a year from finished) where I would like it
to be insured, I applied for a Massachusetts Title.  Well, apparently our
great commonwealth recently enacted a law of "no new titles" and are
refusing to accept my application without a previous title.  I explained
that the guy who sold it to me probably never had a title, and certainly is
not going to be interested in going about getting one in retrospect.  The
lady's reply ?  "Well, I guess you won't be driving it anytime soon"

Has anyone come across this type of thing before ?  Any Advice ?

A frustrated,

Andrew Uprichard
TR3B:  TCF 191L (titled)
TR3A:  TS 51185L (who knows......)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Dec  2 08:53:35 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 7:53:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
In-Reply-To: <57AC490B2DB34CE89CCE730448F4A99C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <20081202105335.EZ39C.321047.root@mp07>

---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at comcast.net> wrote: 

> 4 years ago I bought TS51185 from a guy in Connecticut and got a notarized
> bill of sale.  Having now gotten the car to a point (running, almost ready
> for paint, hopefully less than a year from finished) where I would like it
> to be insured, I applied for a Massachusetts Title.  Well, apparently our
> great commonwealth recently enacted a law of "no new titles" and are
> refusing to accept my application without a previous title. 

I recently sold a 1967 VW truck to a guy in Texas.  Georgia does not require titling of vehicles older than 10 years, so all I could give him was a Bill of Sale.  Texas feels differently about the matter.

I got the B of S notarized, gave him a current registration, and a copy of the Georgia statute stating that no title was required, nor could one be provided.  I telephoned the DMV in his town to make sure that they understood the situation before we shipped the vehicle, and they understood, said it was fine.  He apparently had little trouble titling the vehicle when it was received.

Your state may vary...a quick Google at Conneticut's DMV reveals "The acquisition of a certificate of title for any vehicle manufactured prior to 1981 shall not be required. The commissioner, in his discretion, may issue such certificate of title for such a vehicle."

<http://www.ct.gov/dmv/cwp/view.asp?a=816&Q=244698&dmvPNavCtr=|#30286>

and

<http://www.cga.ct.gov/2005/pub/Chap247.htm#Sec14-166.htm>

Arm yourself with a copy of that, and find a different clerk.  Speak with a supervisor, or with the state Motor Vehicle Registrar if necessary.  Non illigitimus carborundum, and all that...

Good luck!

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  2 09:07:03 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 08:07:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
In-Reply-To: <57AC490B2DB34CE89CCE730448F4A99C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <20081202160704.BYYR29639.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

One mechanism that I've heard works in most states is to file a "mechanic's
lien" against the car, specifying that the legal owner must pay you for the
work you've done (including storage fees).  When he fails to do so, you can
sell the car to yourself and thus generate a new, clear title.

But there are also several "title services" like the one Alex mentioned,
that can generate a new title.  Google for [automobile "title service"]

Fortunately, here in CA, it's even easier ... I'm in the middle of the
process myself.  Only hitch at this point is that the car must be
'assembled' (which apparently means it must have seats) before the DMV can
inspect the VIN.

Randall

From mrv8q at aim.com  Tue Dec  2 09:59:13 2008
From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com)
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2008 11:59:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
In-Reply-To: <20081202160704.BYYR29639.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <8CB22B66FDF1FED-B34-9A0@WEBMAIL-DG08.sim.aol.com>

Randall, if you know a peace officer, he can attest to the VIN...
You'll need a DMV form for him to fill out, (is the VIN plate affixed
w/ screw or rivets, etc. ) I did this for my last car, sitting in my garage.
Good luck, looking forward to seeing you car at an SCTOA event.
Best, Kevin Browne

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Tue Dec  2 02:23:26 2008
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 10:23:26 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission leaks
References: <20859300.1228180673112.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <7D8C1E1DC6FE40538C5EE24EE94EBACD@Study>

I think many of us would counsel Doug Law to be a bit concerned if his TR
does'nt leak oil.
He should be worried that the built in anti chassis corrosion system is not
working properly. If my car ceases to leak oil it is because there is no oil
left in it.  The design office, if they were still around would probably be
most peturbed to hear about Doug's car which just might be a "Friday
afternoon" example.

David Brister
1967 TR4A.
(With regulation oil leaks, and clunk and click every trip.)


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 5.7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 16917 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From chandler.rick at comcast.net  Tue Dec  2 10:22:08 2008
From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 09:22:08 -0800
Subject: [TR] Subject:  Choke cable
Message-ID: <5942E178FC2546C2B949A5012D3C05CF@ricksoffice>

"Now that its fall I find I need to use the choke on the TR3.

My question concerns the choke cable. After you pull the cable out

is it supposed to slowly return to the off position or stay where you

put it.

Pete Bieling"

 

Pete,

 

The original cable comprised a knob, a 3" shaft, and the cable itself. The
shaft was notched along one side with 3 detents, allowing for 3 positions of
the choke, plus "full off". The cylindrical metal sheath that contained the
notched shaft was slotted, and in that slot was a thin piece of metal, the
"half-moon" that Randall referred to a few days ago. On the outside of this
slot was a spring clip that retained the "half-moon" and forced it against
the shaft and into one of the detents. To operate the choke, the driver
simply pulled the choke out until the desired detent engaged. When the
driver wished to reduce the choke, a simple rotation of the knob disengaged
the detent, and the shaft was free to retract.

 

The Moss unit is an exact replica of the original choke cable, but with the
bizarre omission of the "half moon" piece, so that no detent action is
possible. As I recall, even the spring clip is present. I made my own "half
moon" piece from a small piece of shim stock (the piece is approx 1/4" on a
side and maybe 0.040" thick} and now have a fully functioning detented cable
with choices of light, medium, and full choke available. 

 

Rick Chandler

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA Victor

1975 Norton Commando Mk3

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Tue Dec  2 10:10:12 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 17:10:12 -0000
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst - 3 queries
References: <20081202105335.EZ39C.321047.root@mp07>
Message-ID: <A1522C2BF5344F1E8D224379A3F89F95@Bevan>

Guys,

I have a query, though not strictly to do with this particular thread - but hopefully your replies 
may set my mind at rest?
As many of you know, I'm doing a drive across the US and Canada next year for charity in a '73 Stag 
that Joe 'Stagmeister' Pawlak and his 40 friends at ISOA are currently busy rebuilding. AFAIK, the 
car is currently titled in Illinois and I guess it'll remain that way when the event starts and 
hopefully goes to its conclusion. My query is this - though it is now based on the experiences of 
Brit friends of mine who visited the US some years ago.

TITLE
I believe (though can't be sure) that the title will be in my name for the purposes of the trip. As 
a non-US resident, am I likely to run into any trouble on this technicality as a whole, especially 
as the car will be leaving and re-entering the US to and from Canada twice during the trip with me 
in it on both occasions. Am I likely to get 'stuffed' by some frontier official who doesn't know the 
rule book and finds him/herself in a "more than my job's worth" situation?

REGISTRATION
One of my friends entered one State in a loaned car and because it bore licence plates of a 
relatively distant State and he was using his British driving licence, it seemed he had to 
re-licence the car on the plates of that State before going any further. Allegedly this caused 
horrendous problems for the owner when the car eventually got back to its home State.

LICENCE
All the paperwork I've read on websites for rubber-necking tourists like me, indicates I can safely 
drive a US licenced and US insured car on a British (read full European licence) without further let 
or hindrance. That's what worries me. Another friend (five years back) was in a rental car he'd 
picked up in Oregon and had driven to San Francisco to see the bridge and streetcars. He maintains 
he got stopped in a police spot-check and because the police chappie didn't recognise his licence as 
one issued in any US State, he was required to take a California state driving test before going any 
further.

Both the people referred to above are absolutely honest and I don't doubt what they told me for one 
instant. However, my trip is going to be keeping to some very tight schedules and the last thing I 
want is some gun-toting bloke appearing at my driving window and telling me I can't proceed because 
I've "infringed" some law I ought to know all about - but don't. I admit my tolerance levels when 
confronted with 'offialdom' is on a short fuse and recognising that a punch on the nose is likely to 
offend, it occurs to me that now would be a good time to garner the collective thoughts of the list. 
Replies off-list are probably better as my request doesn't have much to do with assymetric scrunge 
brackets being fitted in the driver's door of a TR (or not) during the 1975 build year.

In expectation

Jonmac 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Dec  2 11:02:54 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 13:02:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas Tank Cleaning
Message-ID: <E525B47EB2904C5FBBAEC1A07A8CA446@BOBSNEWPC>

Last week I had my first ever tow/slider ride (http://tinyurl.com/5tjvc7)
when I lost most fuel pressure while cruising down the highway. It turns out
that the gas tank outlet fitting was totally blocked. Seeing as I had the
tank boiled out two years ago I suspect it was my stupid use of Teflon tape
on the fittings that caused the problem. So now I have the tank out of the
car and wonder what's the best way to "clean" it out. I could add about 1/2
gallon of gas and agitate the tank and pour it into a container. Or I could
use a product made for cleaning gas tanks but my searching has turned up
mostly products for getting the rust out of the tank. So what's the best way
to just stir up what's in there and pour it out?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Tue Dec  2 11:27:35 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 13:27:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3393.1228234031.3542.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OFC8D2D3A6.BAE7DD16-ON85257513.0064DB13-85257513.0065636B@exxonmobil.com>

I do sympathize with you, but why would you not have registered the car in
your name right after you bought it?  Govts are known for doing things like
this; it should be of no surprise to you.

Friends made fun of me for immediately transferring the title of the two
TR7s I bought this summer, even though one may never be on the road again
and the other for at least a year, and I even had to go through the effort
of getting the VIN put right on the parts car.  Well, it is exactly for the
problem that you are having that I did go through the hassle; because DMV
rule change constantly and if necessary I still know where the former owner
lives.  It also happens that if I send the parts car to a scrap yard that I
still have to prove ownership.

Mark

From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>

4 years ago I bought TS51185 from a guy in Connecticut and got a notarized
bill of sale.  Having now gotten the car to a point (running, almost ready
for paint, hopefully less than a year from finished) where I would like it
to be insured, I applied for a Massachusetts Title.  Well, apparently our
great commonwealth recently enacted a law of "no new titles" and are
refusing to accept my application without a previous title.  I explained
that the guy who sold it to me probably never had a title, and certainly is
not going to be interested in going about getting one in retrospect.  The
lady's reply ?  "Well, I guess you won't be driving it anytime soon"

Has anyone come across this type of thing before ?  Any Advice ?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  2 11:39:27 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 10:39:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] Gas Tank Cleaning
In-Reply-To: <E525B47EB2904C5FBBAEC1A07A8CA446@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <E525B47EB2904C5FBBAEC1A07A8CA446@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <513AB3D1F35F421DBC3F917C57C5D3D9@jdnet.deere.com>

> I could add about 1/2
> gallon of gas and agitate the tank and pour it into a 
> container.

Should work as well as anything, against teflon tape.  But I would add a
handful of nuts or old bearing balls to the mix.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec  2 13:15:18 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2008 15:15:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] (Fwd) Re:  Government at its worst - 3 queries
Message-ID: <49355106.1254.F8F79B6@localhost>

On 2 Dec 2008 at 17:10, John Macartney wrote:

> I believe ... that the title will be in my
> name...  Am I likely to get 'stuffed' by some frontier
> official who doesn't know the rule book

One doesn't normally carry a car's title, only its registration card 
which must match the car's plates.  You need the title only when you 
try to register it for the first time.  Otherwise the title stays 
home, locked in a drawer were it gets lost.  Some states have only
a rear plate, some have front and rear, and in some states the 
requirement depends on the year it was registered.  In some states, 
the vehicle's entry in the registry's database must list the common 
drivers.  For what its worth, I've been back and forth to Canada many 
times (married a Canadian), and I've never been asked for vehicle 
registration.  They check the plate number with a video cam, 
presumably against a stolen-vehicle database, but ask only 
for ID, passport, etc.


> One of my friends entered one State in a loaned car and...
> he had to re-licence the car on the plates of that
> State before going any further.

A registration from any state is valid in others regardless 
of who is driving it.  Technically, possession of the registration 
card (along with your driver's license) is required while you are 
driving, and perhaps your friend didn't have it for that borrowed 
car.  Another question might be whether you have permission to
drive it even though you are carrying its regsitration.  I can 
understand an officer wondering if a car had been stolen, and being 
unable to contact the person named on the registration perhaps
he wanted to check ownership.  Usually carrying the registration
is proof that the car is yours or that you have permission from its 
owner.  However many people leave their registration cards in the 
vehicle so that's not a guarantee.  Still, in this computerized and 
connected world an officer should be able to verify a car's 
legitimacy in minutes.

There are no checkpoints at most state borders.  However some state 
lines may have agriculture inspection checkpoints.   They may require 
all vehicles to stop or maybe just trucks.  Don't try to enter 
California (or the US from Canada) with a bag of oranges from the 
Mediterranean.


> he got stopped in a police spot-check and because the
> police chappie didn't recognise his licence...
> he was required to take a California state driving test

Wow.  I haven't been through a spot check since, oh, maybe 1972.  I'd 
think that the probability of you getting stopped has many zeroes 
between the decimal point and the rightmost digit.  It might depend 
on the whim of the officer.  Just don't give anyone reason to stop 
you.

You might want to take along some publicity material about the trip, 
something to show to any officer that you are actually up to good 
instead of no good.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From team.net at daveola.com  Tue Dec  2 13:17:24 2008
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2008 12:17:24 -0800
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst - 3 queries
In-Reply-To: <A1522C2BF5344F1E8D224379A3F89F95@Bevan>
References: <A1522C2BF5344F1E8D224379A3F89F95@Bevan>
Message-ID: <E1L7bom-0006qU-Dg@dave.getdave.com>

John Macartney wrote:
> However, my trip is going to be keeping to some very tight 
> schedules and the last thing I want is some gun-toting bloke 
> appearing at my driving window and telling me I can't proceed because 
> I've "infringed" some law I ought to know all about - but don't.

You should just as easily be worried about being stopped by
some gun-toting officer who won't let you proceed because
you've "infringed" some law that doesn't exist.

The problem is that the vehicle code is fairly lengthy and
involved, and most police officers have plenty to deal with
besides vehicle stops, particularly special cases like you are
describing.

As someone who drives unusual vehicles I have learned some
of the best ways to deal with officers unclear on the law.

Re: http://Daveola.com/History/Section_7.html
Search for multiple occurrences of "Dave Fought The Law, And The Dave Won"

My experience is that you'd be much more likely to finish
your trip if you:

1) Do some research.  For all the states you are going to drive
   in, you want to find the DMV website ("Department of Motor Vehicles")
   and look up the VC ("Vehicle Code").  I believe that all of
   the 50 states have their VC online.
2) Print out the relevant parts of the vehicle code to bring along.
3) When stopped, happily and politely present said VC to officer.

#3 is very tricky, because it turns out that cops (definitely
here in the USA) really *hate* to be told they are wrong.  They
are used to being on the other side of the power dynamic, so
you have to play it very carefully and make sure you are still
in deference to their "power" in the situation, otherwise you
will find yourself hauled in over an incorrect interpretation
of the law.

As someone who has a short fuse with officialdom, I can
understand how this will be difficult, but for pragmatic
reasons I suggest snipping that fuse if possible.  :)

Good luck in the states!

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415 341-5555
------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  2 14:22:15 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 13:22:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst - 3 queries
In-Reply-To: <A1522C2BF5344F1E8D224379A3F89F95@Bevan>
References: <20081202105335.EZ39C.321047.root@mp07>
	<A1522C2BF5344F1E8D224379A3F89F95@Bevan>
Message-ID: <DDA865DE16FB4425B8B8493CA7BF8660@jdnet.deere.com>

> I believe (though can't be sure) that the title will be in my 
> name for the purposes of the trip.

Although not illegal as such, this might be awkward if someone did start
asking pointed questions.

Personally, I think it would practically eliminate any possibility of
problems if both the title (which as noted you are not required to carry)
and the registration (which most states do require that you carry and show
on demand) bore the same name, of someone who resides at the address shown
on both registration and title.  To further eliminate any problems, I would
suggest a letter explaining that you have permission to drive the car
throughout the US and Canada, signed by the owner shown on the title &
registration.

Randall - who once spent an uncomfortable hour explaining patiently that he
had not stolen his own car from himself, no matter what the police database
showed.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  2 14:33:00 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 13:33:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
In-Reply-To: <8CB22B66FDF1FED-B34-9A0@WEBMAIL-DG08.sim.aol.com>
References: <20081202160704.BYYR29639.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<8CB22B66FDF1FED-B34-9A0@WEBMAIL-DG08.sim.aol.com>
Message-ID: <D3D57A4CF8EF41E9BFA728996CE603CF@jdnet.deere.com>

> Randall, if you know a peace officer, he can attest to the VIN...

Such is the theory.  Alas, the only peace officers that I know live too far
away from me to be practical; and the local sheriff's department first
agreed to do the inspection over the phone, and then refused to perform it
when I got there with my trailer.

And the "complete car" rule still applies.

Randall

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Dec  2 16:20:59 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 23:20:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] J.M. Wagner Sales, Ltd
In-Reply-To: <395CEB2C3A1B433E870636E406C50BEF@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <1357211049.268671228260059769.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I don't know if it is the case this time, but I know that Justin's "day job"
>sometimes occupies all of his waking hours for weeks at a time. B Generally
>after his contract ends, he will recuperate for a few days and then start
>catching up on Triumph matters (like gasket sales).


I know I should wait for Justin to "return," but does anyone know if he
developed a TR3 oil pan gasket?B  I think he was talking about it at one
point?



Terry Smith

New Hampshire

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  2 16:33:25 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 15:33:25 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] J.M. Wagner Sales, Ltd
In-Reply-To: <1357211049.268671228260059769.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <395CEB2C3A1B433E870636E406C50BEF@jdnet.deere.com>
	<1357211049.268671228260059769.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BFD0BE728A0641D99C0199ECCB47994C@jdnet.deere.com>

> I know I should wait for Justin to "return," but does anyone 
> know if he
> developed a TR3 oil pan gasket?

He made some prototypes, but they were disappointing.  Last I heard, he had
no plans to continue to pursue the project (but of course plans sometimes
change).

Randall

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Dec  2 17:02:42 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 00:02:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Gas Tank Cleaning
In-Reply-To: <571267600.274821228261949962.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <802916289.277031228262562151.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>> I could add about 1/2
> >gallon of gas and agitate the tank and pour it into a
> >container.

>Should work as well as anything, against teflon tape. B But I would add a
>handful of nuts or old bearing balls to the mix.

As I disassembled my '59 TR3A TS 58667, I took out the gas tank, threw in some
plain old sand, agitated like a maniac, then at last filled with water and
Simple Green, agitated some more, rinsed, then filled with mixture of water
and phosphoric acid to clean out residual rust.B  Soak, looking for leaks.B 
Then rinse, rinse, rinse, and rinse again.B  Dry with the exhaust end of a
vacuum cleaner.B  Coat the exterior with POR 15.B 



...Only for me to discover...gadfrey!...that the DPO had replaced the original
with a Spitfire gas tank.B  i



Anyone need a completely restored Spitfire gas tank?????



Terry Smith, '59 Tr3AB 

New Hampshire

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Tue Dec  2 17:09:20 2008
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 19:09:20 EST
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
Message-ID: <c5c.3f10aba0.36672830@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/2/08 10:26:25 AM Eastern Standard Time,
auprichard at comcast.net writes:

<< I applied for a Massachusetts Title.  Well, apparently our  great commonweal
th recently enacted a law of "no new titles" and are  refusing to accept my app
lication without a previous title.  >>

OK, I've just stolen your car and now am getting it registered in a state
that does not require proof of ownership.

Now what?

( A Notary stamping a bill of sale only means the person standing in front of
them is the person that the signature belongs to.)

In most states not transferring ownership during a sale is illegal, and
technically ownership resides with the original owner.  
**************
Life should
be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW AOL.com.
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002
)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Dec  2 17:07:58 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 00:07:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst - 3 queries
In-Reply-To: <DDA865DE16FB4425B8B8493CA7BF8660@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <1150080880.278171228262878762.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Have read this thread with interest.



Confess, am insulted.



As a state worker, I am offended at a subject line that reads "Government at
its worst."



Please, please, please....



Government can descend to depths much, muchB darker and deeperB than this
frivolity, this humor, this fragrant attempt at lilacs of comprehension.



Am proud to be a part!







Terry Smith

New Hampshire

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Dec  2 17:40:29 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 19:40:29 EST
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
Message-ID: <bf5.49e85275.36672f7d@aol.com>

I have not read all the posts but. . .I bought a car in CT (my TR3A) and  
what I learned is that such a thing as a title does not exist for a car over 25  
years old.  It is not required in CT.  I shipped it to FL and titled  it here 
based upon the fact that CT does not require a title for a car over 25  years 
old.  The DMV and the police checked out my claim and agreed and  titled the 
car.  I have not seen anything written about CT but based on my  experience I 
would say it is true.  See if you can get a dealer to handle  this for you in 
MA.  These guys title cars to new owners en masse and are  not likely to put up 
with the BS you as an individual have to put up with.
 
Good luck
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your 
favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006)

From steven at newellboys.net  Tue Dec  2 18:40:48 2008
From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell)
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2008 18:40:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst - 3 queries
In-Reply-To: <E1L7bom-0006qU-Dg@dave.getdave.com>
References: <A1522C2BF5344F1E8D224379A3F89F95@Bevan>
	<E1L7bom-0006qU-Dg@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <4935E3A0.7040301@newellboys.net>

Dave,

Somewhere in your blog of legal battles, you mention getting hassled 
about the tiny back seat. Were you using it at the time, or did they 
just not like it being there? :)

My boys (now 10 and 11) have ridden on my bench seat (TR4) for years. 
One ticket when I was using a single, shared seat belt, but with two 
belts in the back I seem to comply much to the chagrin of one of my 
local peace officers.

Steven Newell
'62 TR4
'87 BMW 535is, 528e, 325(e)
'88 BMW 535is

From team.net at daveola.com  Tue Dec  2 18:57:01 2008
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2008 17:57:01 -0800
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst - 3 queries
In-Reply-To: <4935E3A0.7040301@newellboys.net>
References: <A1522C2BF5344F1E8D224379A3F89F95@Bevan>
	<E1L7bom-0006qU-Dg@dave.getdave.com> <4935E3A0.7040301@newellboys.net>
Message-ID: <E1L7hSc-0007To-MY@dave.getdave.com>

> Somewhere in your blog of legal battles, you mention getting hassled 
> about the tiny back seat. Were you using it at the time, or did they 
> just not like it being there? :)

Using it at the time.

Our cars had optional back seats and no seat belts, front or back.

As I understand it, our older vehicles (which were built without
safety belts) are exempt from the normal safety equipment requirements.

In other words, you are required to use (and not disable/remove)
whatever safety equipment your vehicle came with, such as the
bumpers, but are not required to update your vehicle with the
new safety requirements.

Though I must confess that a quick glance at the Safety Belt
code in the California DMV did not turn up such info, I'm still
sure enough that it's true that I'll happily defend that point.

For example, we don't need to have three point seat belts,
though that's required equipment today.  So are reverse lights,
I think, which don't exist on the early cars either.

Regardless, while I know California has a seat belt law, it
does not have a law regarding the safety or size of the back
seat, and that's what I get pulled over for.

I did some searching, and could only find people making uncited
claims, so maybe it's simply unenforced.  For example:

http://articles.latimes.com/2001/dec/12/autos/hy-wheels12

But no citing of legal/government sources.

Anyone have more info on this?

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415 341-5555
------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------

From m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca  Tue Dec  2 19:35:09 2008
From: m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca (Mo and Dave MacKay)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 21:35:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] J.M. Wagner Sales, Ltd
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP16DCF68C79A7396E1D8CDBA4030@phx.gbl>

>David.........I forwarded this to the Triumph Mail List because I know
Justin often 

>monitors it. Maybe someone there knows what's going on.

 

I tried to order a gasket for my TR3A from Justin last year (and kept trying
through this spring). We exchanged a few e-mails in the fall of 2007 at
which point he was out of stock and consumed by his work on a commercial
shoot. He expected he'd be able to attend to Triumph matters by Christmas. I
tried to reach Justin after that but never got a reply.

 

He's still around however. Justin's last post to the triumphs at autox.net list
was on August 25.

 

Being unable to source a silicone valve cover gasket through Justin, I found
two other suppliers:

 

1) Roadster Gaskets: http://roadstergaskets.com/triumph.html

 

2) Gasket Innovations:
http://www.gasketinnovations.flyingcart.com/index.php?p=home

 

I purchased a silicone valve cover gasket from Gasket Innovations. I found
the proprietor (Steve Downing) to be very helpful and responsive. I
installed the gasket just before putting the car away for the winter, so I
can't yet offer an assessment on how well it performs. 

 

NFI.

 

Regards,

 

Dave MacKay

TR3A s/n 68639L(O)

Near Toronto, Canada

From m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca  Tue Dec  2 19:47:21 2008
From: m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca (Mo and Dave MacKay)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 21:47:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 choke cable
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP14D5F1E5CCEB8C130D980BA4030@phx.gbl>

Rick Chandler wrote:

>I made my own "half moon" piece from a small piece of shim stock (the piece
is approx 1/4" on a side 

>and maybe 0.040" thick} and now have a fully functioning detented cable
with choices of light, medium, 

>and full choke available. 

 

I've looked in my copy of the Spare Parts Catalogue, but I don't see
anything that resembles that "half moon" piece. Do you have a drawing of
what it should look like? 

 

I'd like to fabricate one for use with the replacement choke cable that I
recently ordered. Having a choice of working detent would be appealing --- I
keep losing the clothes pins that I've been using 'till now.

 

Regards,

 

Dave MacKay

1960 TR3A s/n 68639L(O)

Near Toronto, Canada

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Tue Dec  2 20:13:23 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 04:13:23 +0100
Subject: [TR] Remote door look switch for a TR3A??
Message-ID: <ED5DDF76-040A-40F0-8486-E0D6E0EEB0E7@cox.net>

I thought the subject might get some attention.

When I rewired my TR3I originally used a small remote switch designed  
to control lights on a boat to act as a remote cut off for the  
ignition switch.  But after about a year it died, so now I am trying  
to come up with an option that will last a little longer.  So I was  
thinking about trying to find a remote control from a modern car to  
use as a switch to turn on & off the ignition circuit.

I know I can use a toggle switch but anyone can figure that out -  
besides I already a fan and a 4 way flasher switches under the  
dash :-).  But a remote control switch could be put anywhere (trunk,  
under the seat, engine compartment).

Has anyone done this?  Does anyone have any suggestions where I could  
get a remote control switch that would work with our very simple  
electrical system??

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Dec  2 20:32:24 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2008 03:32:24 +0000
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst - now Triumph Trans-AmeriCan
 question
Message-ID: <120320080332.1598.4935FDC8000D1F460000063E22155754749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

Is the tour an incorporated entity?

How about donating the car to an entity?

Does the McCartney Charitable Trust have a USA legal presence?

How about donating the Stag to Gift from Within, a USA charity which could write letters of introduction of JonMac who would be driving their car (with Maine plates?).  This would seamlessly cover the ownership before and after JonMac's arrival here in the USA.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  2 20:42:38 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 19:42:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst - 3 queries
In-Reply-To: <1150080880.278171228262878762.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20081203034238.ZUHA19287.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Government can descend to depths much, much darker and deeper 
> than this 

Ya know, when yer right, yer right !

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue Dec  2 20:45:40 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 22:45:40 EST
Subject: [TR] Remote door look switch for a TR3A??
Message-ID: <cc8.3f43040c.36675ae4@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/2/2008 7:14:11 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
60TR3A at cox.net writes:

When I  rewired my TR3I originally used a small remote switch designed  
to  control lights on a boat to act as a remote cut off for the  
ignition  switch.  But after about a year it died, so now I am trying  
to  come up with an option that will last a little longer.  So I was   
thinking about trying to find a remote control from a modern car to   
use as a switch to turn on & off the ignition circuit.

I know I  can use a toggle switch but anyone can figure that out -  
besides I  already a fan and a 4 way flasher switches under the  
dash :-).   But a remote control switch could be put anywhere (trunk,  
under the  seat, engine compartment).

Has anyone done this?  Does anyone have  any suggestions where I could  
get a remote control switch that would  work with our very simple  
electrical  system??

John

John A. Wise
Glendale,  AZ



Some people have disconnected the dash light switch (let dash lights  always 
be on with headlights) and used that as a no-steal switch.
 
Mike Moore 
 
Engineering  Manager
CL Moore & Associates, Inc.
17590 Holiday Drive, Morgan Hill,  
California 95037
408-782-1272 fax  408-782-1372
**************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW 
AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  2 20:47:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 19:47:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] Remote door look switch for a TR3A??
In-Reply-To: <ED5DDF76-040A-40F0-8486-E0D6E0EEB0E7@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20081203034749.YXHG29639.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Does anyone have any suggestions where 
> I could get a remote control switch that would work with our 
> very simple electrical system??

Almost any aftermarket alarm system should be able to offer this
functionality.

Actual remote door locks would be a whole different problem, though, as the
locks are completely contained within the exterior handle; not to mention
pretty much useless as it's a simple matter to slide the window open and use
the interior handle (which doesn't lock).

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  2 20:49:24 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 19:49:24 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 choke cable
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP14D5F1E5CCEB8C130D980BA4030@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20081203034924.WWAY20835.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

>  --- I keep losing the clothes pins 
> that I've been using 'till now.

The Official Triumph clothespin comes with a length of string to prevent
that !

Randall

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Tue Dec  2 20:53:44 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2008 22:53:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Remote door look switch for a TR3A??
References: <20081203034749.YXHG29639.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <30DA0A8ACC414BED81FC51AB1F6435AA@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Never seen a "interior door handle" on any T/R 3, cable but a handle  "FT"
================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumph car discussion Sports'" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Remote door look switch for a TR3A??


>> Does anyone have any suggestions where
>> I could get a remote control switch that would work with our
>> very simple electrical system??
>
> Almost any aftermarket alarm system should be able to offer this
> functionality.
>
> Actual remote door locks would be a whole different problem, though, as 
> the
> locks are completely contained within the exterior handle; not to mention
> pretty much useless as it's a simple matter to slide the window open and 
> use
> the interior handle (which doesn't lock).
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  2 21:12:26 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 20:12:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst - 3 queries
In-Reply-To: <E1L7hSc-0007To-MY@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <20081203041225.XJPC20835.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Though I must confess that a quick glance at the Safety Belt 
> code in the California DMV did not turn up such info, I'm 
> still sure enough that it's true that I'll happily defend that point.

The law is (as usual) not crystal clear on this point (makes me think our
legislators must be functionally illiterate).  However, the relevant section
is usually cited as California Vehicle Code section 27315(f), which states
"This subdivision does not, however, require installation or maintenance of
safety belts where not required by the laws of the United States applicable
to the vehicle at the time of its initial sale."
http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d12/vc27315.htm

And FWIW the CHP officer on the scene where my TR3A was totaled seemed to be
aware of this.  He started to ask me if I'd been wearing a belt, then
glanced at the car and said "Of course not".

My only suggestion is, the next time you are hassled about the rear seat;
ask that the officer give you a citation.  In order to fill out the
citation, he must be able to name "chapter and verse" of which part of the
VC you have violated.  I once had a rather heated argument after admitting
that my speedometer did not work (speedometers are not required by law) and
that ended the argument quickly.  Still got a ticket for speeding, though
<G>

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  2 21:20:03 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 20:20:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] Remote door look switch for a TR3A??
In-Reply-To: <30DA0A8ACC414BED81FC51AB1F6435AA@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <20081203042002.DTUT27302.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Never seen a "interior door handle" on any T/R 3, cable but a 
> handle  "FT"
>From Merriam-Webster :

	Main Entry: han.dle  
	Function: noun 
	1: a part that is designed especially to be grasped by the hand

So I maintain that a TR3 has an interior door handle, which happens to be a
cable.

Randall

From Triosan at gmail.com  Tue Dec  2 21:24:43 2008
From: Triosan at gmail.com (Triosan at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2008 04:24:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 valve cover gasket
Message-ID: <00163645923cc247dd045d1cd2e3@google.com>

I too have discovered
http://roadstergaskets.com/TR6.html

I installed their gasket on my after market valve cover. Fits great, never  
leaks, comes off often.

Bonus is you get a great big piece of gasket material to use for other  
purposes --like the blanking plate for the fuel pump.

From allegrorover at mac.com  Tue Dec  2 21:45:49 2008
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2008 23:45:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Remote door look switch for a TR3A??
In-Reply-To: <ED5DDF76-040A-40F0-8486-E0D6E0EEB0E7@cox.net>
References: <ED5DDF76-040A-40F0-8486-E0D6E0EEB0E7@cox.net>
Message-ID: <0C68DD73-806A-4F4A-B3D1-901905A9CD85@mac.com>

John,
What I did on my TR3A was to install a  "Battery Brain" which I found  
at Camping world.
It is fairly easy to install (after all I did it) and it comes with 2  
remotes. It actually is a battery disconnect and has a lousy beeper  
that possibly I should have placed outside the engine compartment.
But it works. I thought with the kind of traveling I was doing with  
the TR3A, and the places that I sometimes had to park it, it was piece  
of mind.
It cost about $80.00.
My car is modified anyway so at the National I didn't get dinged for  
it, actually had lots of people asking what the heck it was.
obviously you can install a simple cut off switch, but alas no  
remote......
Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Dec  2 22:01:36 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 22:01:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Remote door look switch for a TR3A??
In-Reply-To: <ED5DDF76-040A-40F0-8486-E0D6E0EEB0E7@cox.net>
References: <ED5DDF76-040A-40F0-8486-E0D6E0EEB0E7@cox.net>
Message-ID: <2F114DE00545429ABDCDD08905215D2B@sniffer>

Try some of the after market anti-theft systems, they are pretty reasonable
and you can have a siren too!

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 60TR3A
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 8:13 PM
To: Triumph car discussion Sports
Subject: [TR] Remote door look switch for a TR3A??

I thought the subject might get some attention.

When I rewired my TR3I originally used a small remote switch designed to
control lights on a boat to act as a remote cut off for the ignition switch.
But after about a year it died, so now I am trying to come up with an option
that will last a little longer.  So I was thinking about trying to find a
remote control from a modern car to use as a switch to turn on & off the
ignition circuit.

I know I can use a toggle switch but anyone can figure that out - besides I
already a fan and a 4 way flasher switches under the dash :-).  But a remote
control switch could be put anywhere (trunk, under the seat, engine
compartment).

Has anyone done this?  Does anyone have any suggestions where I could get a
remote control switch that would work with our very simple electrical
system??

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.12/1823 - Release Date: 12/2/2008
8:44 PM

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Tue Dec  2 23:38:27 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2008 01:38:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] J.M. Wagner Sales, Ltd
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP16DCF68C79A7396E1D8CDBA4030@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP16DCF68C79A7396E1D8CDBA4030@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CB2328E1F43520-160-C98@WEBMAIL-DY03.sysops.aol.com>

 Dave and List,

You might be interested to know that the "helpful and responsive" proprietor is also offering a "Fan Eliminator Kit" for sale that looks surprisingly similar to the one invented, developed and marketed by list member Rick Patton.? In other words, he has stolen the design and offered it on his site for profit.? Rick is a hell of a nice guy and in my book this qualifies Mr. Downing as a rather unscrupulous businessman.? And he has been asked to stop but as of five minutes ago the part is still offered on his web site.

Just thought you and others might like to know.

Cheers,

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Mo and Dave MacKay <m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca>
To: Mailing List Triumph (Triumph Mailing List) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 9:35 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] J.M. Wagner Sales, Ltd










>David.........I forwarded this to the Triumph Mail List because I know
Justin often 

>monitors it. Maybe someone there knows what's going on.

 

I tried to order a gasket for my TR3A from Justin last year (and kept trying
through this spring). We exchanged a few e-mails in the fall of 2007 at
which point he was out of stock and consumed by his work on a commercial
shoot. He expected he'd be able to attend to Triumph matters by Christmas. I
tried to reach Justin after that but never got a reply.

 

He's still around however. Justin's last post to the triumphs at autox.net list
was on August 25.

 

Being unable to source a silicone valve cover gasket through Justin, I found
two other suppliers:

 

1) Roadster Gaskets: http://roadstergaskets.com/triumph.html

 

2) Gasket Innovations:
http://www.gasketinnovations.flyingcart.com/index.php?p=home

 

I purchased a silicone valve cover gasket from Gasket Innovations. I found
the proprietor (Steve Downing) to be very helpful and responsive. I
installed the gasket just before putting the car away for the winter, so I
can't yet offer an assessment on how well it performs. 

 

NFI.

 

Regards,

 

Dave MacKay

TR3A s/n 68639L(O)

Near Toronto, Canada

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Dec  3 01:29:36 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 08:29:36 -0000
Subject: [TR] My 3 queries
Message-ID: <BADCA063E7A346259C4F99D749004E58@Bevan>

Further to my post of yesterday, very many thanks for the many emails that have come in with sage 
words of advice.

1. The issue of title is resolved. I don't want the Stag titled in my name anyway, so whoever is 
willing to take on that burden has my full sanction
2. I shall bring multiple copies of a letter from the registered *owner* authorising me to drive the 
car.
3. I was going to bring an International Driving Licence anyway to support my normal one - but 
omitted to mention it in my first post.

Thanks everyone for your input

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Dec  3 08:19:22 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 10:19:22 EST
Subject: [TR] My 3 queries
Message-ID: <c0a.4e322a27.3667fd7a@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/3/2008 12:30:03 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

Further  to my post of yesterday, very many thanks for the many emails that 
have come  in with sage 
words of advice.

1. The issue of title is resolved. I  don't want the Stag titled in my name 
anyway, so whoever is 
willing to  take on that burden has my full sanction
2. I shall bring multiple copies  of a letter from the registered *owner* 
authorising me to drive the  
car.
3. I was going to bring an International Driving Licence anyway to  support 
my normal one - but 
omitted to mention it in my first  post.

Thanks everyone for your  input

Jonmac






FYI,
I have had friends from the UK sometimes drive one of my cars. Insurance in  
many states is a requirement. I was told by my insurance co that so long as he 
 has my permission to be driving the vehicle, my insurance covers him even 
though  he doesn't have a US license.
Mike Moore   
 
Engineering  Manager
CL Moore & Associates, Inc.
17590 Holiday Drive, Morgan Hill,  
California 95037
408-782-1272 fax  408-782-1372
**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From nogera at worldnet.att.net  Wed Dec  3 08:24:00 2008
From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 09:24:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR 3 Main journal bore ?
Message-ID: <18BD11FD4A9C4C35B0E17F0D0C01D99C@Carroom>

My Machine shop just called and said they could not find the dimensions for
the main bearing bore. ( this is not the measurement for the crank journals
but rather the size of the  bore that holds the main bearing shells. It is
not in my manual. Anyone happen to know it?

Bob  

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Dec  3 08:41:29 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2008 09:41:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR 3 Main journal bore ?
In-Reply-To: <18BD11FD4A9C4C35B0E17F0D0C01D99C@Carroom>
References: <18BD11FD4A9C4C35B0E17F0D0C01D99C@Carroom>
Message-ID: <200812030741674.SM11356@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com>

At 09:24 AM 12/3/2008, Bob Nogueira wrote:
>My Machine shop just called and said they could not find the dimensions for
>the main bearing bore. ( this is not the measurement for the crank journals
>but rather the size of the  bore that holds the main bearing shells. It is
>not in my manual. Anyone happen to know it?
>
>Bob
==============
Vandervell says:
                             F. C. & R.M. 66.675 - 66.687mm or 2.6250 
- 2.6255 in.

Peter C. 

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Wed Dec  3 10:45:43 2008
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 12:45:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
In-Reply-To: <57AC490B2DB34CE89CCE730448F4A99C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B17497@mail.ex-centris.net>

Hi Andrew:

I had a similar experience in Quebec, Canada.

As a teenager, I got a ratty old Kawasaki motorcycle in 1978 from a
impound yard in exchange for my Puch moped which they had "lost"
following it being grabbed from me for driving it with an expired
license. :^( The KH250 was not in any sort of running condition having
been run up a tree by an eager sort of fellow who had confused himself
with a squirrel. He had subsequently either lost interest or left this
veil of tears and thus the bike had no papers at all.

I dragged the bike and associated parts off in a little red wagon and
worked on rebuilding the machine all summer. Alas, like you, when I
tried to license it without any title documents the officials were not
impressed by my industry and flatly refused my application and earnest
entreaties.

After much investigation, the solution was to go to a "Commissioner of
Oaths". I wrote out a statement affirming the motorcycle's history and
that to the best of my knowledge I was indeed now the rightful owner.
The commissioner affixed his seal to the document and I headed off to
the license bureau. Better than Ajax's shield, all the bites of the
venomous reptiles inhabiting that dark den were rebuffed by my sealed
paper. They positively cowered before it and I emerged into the light of
day proudly holding my new license and ownership papers.

You might try to find out what the equivalent of this odd but useful
office is in your neck of the woods. They seem to hang out around realty
offices and engineering companies. Indeed I found mine at the
engineering company where my father was working. There the commissioner
would seal statements from the engineers that the 10-story mud and straw
buildings they were designing were proof against all calamities such as
rain, wind and earthquakes.

Best of luck!

Cheers,

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: December 2, 2008 10:26 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst

Team:

4 years ago I bought TS51185 from a guy in Connecticut and got a
notarized
bill of sale.  Having now gotten the car to a point (running, almost
ready
for paint, hopefully less than a year from finished) where I would like
it
to be insured, I applied for a Massachusetts Title.  Well, apparently
our
great commonwealth recently enacted a law of "no new titles" and are
refusing to accept my application without a previous title.  I explained
that the guy who sold it to me probably never had a title, and certainly
is
not going to be interested in going about getting one in retrospect.
The
lady's reply ?  "Well, I guess you won't be driving it anytime soon"

Has anyone come across this type of thing before ?  Any Advice ?

A frustrated,

Andrew Uprichard
TR3B:  TCF 191L (titled)
TR3A:  TS 51185L (who knows......)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec  3 10:55:40 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 09:55:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR 3 Main journal bore ?
In-Reply-To: <200812030741674.SM11356@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com>
References: <18BD11FD4A9C4C35B0E17F0D0C01D99C@Carroom>
	<200812030741674.SM11356@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <41384224B27047CD91AB404C4764EF79@jdnet.deere.com>

Peter Caldwell wrote :

> Vandervell says:
>       F. C. & R.M. 66.675 - 66.687mm or 2.6250 - 2.6255 in.

Which nicely matches the figures given in the factory workshop manual, page
B1.

Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Dec  3 11:24:44 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 13:24:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fishing......in the Gas Tank!
Message-ID: <F2984893A89945018B509908C1E59165@BOBSNEWPC>

The other day I asked the list about the best way to clean the gas tank of
some debris that blocked the outlet and resulted in my first slider ride. I
removed the sender unit to give me another opening to look through and am
happy to say that it's not Teflon tape or Hylomar. It's the remnants of a
white rubbery gasket with a "T" shaped profile. I have no idea how it got
there other than it may have been in the shop's tank that boiled out my tank
two year's ago. You can see pictures here http://tinyurl.com/5s6wyv toward
the bottom of the thread.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From mcmeganutt at aol.com  Wed Dec  3 12:20:50 2008
From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2008 14:20:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Title in Connecticut
Message-ID: <8CB239363355ACE-AF8-2C0@webmail-db18.sysops.aol.com>

You may be able to simple take your original Bill of Sale from the CT owner and ask the CT DMV to issue a title (thats what I did for the 70 TR6) .It is best if you have the CT registration and or the tear sheet from the CT registration that acts as the Bill of Sale, rather than a back of the envelope type BoS. Then take your CT title to MA.
Fred
70 TR6CC54944L-FIT

From auprichard at comcast.net  Wed Dec  3 13:23:42 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 15:23:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
In-Reply-To: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B17497@mail.ex-centris.net>
References: <57AC490B2DB34CE89CCE730448F4A99C@DCH6RFC1>
	<C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B17497@mail.ex-centris.net>
Message-ID: <DE8C4695C8AD4854AFC010EB73AD486B@DCH6RFC1>

Thanks to everyone who replied with a helpful spectrum of suggestions,
including trying a different RMV office, acting stupid (shouldn't be
difficult), getting the car titled first in CT, employing a "commissioner of
oaths", contacting a local state representative, securing a mechanic's lien
or "selling" the car to Dave in Dallas and have him sell it back to me.  For
varying amounts of money, I have even been promised an Alabama title. One
respondent said I shouldn't have waited so long and another that I shouldn't
be pointing fingers when it was my fault in the first place.

But I loved Terry Smith's reply:  "government can descend to depths much,
much darker and deeper than this frivolity".  How true !

So I am going to march through the suggestions and let the list know how I
make out.

Andrew

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Dec  3 22:07:47 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 22:07:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Government at its worst
In-Reply-To: <DE8C4695C8AD4854AFC010EB73AD486B@DCH6RFC1>
References: <57AC490B2DB34CE89CCE730448F4A99C@DCH6RFC1><C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B17497@mail.ex-centris.net>
	<DE8C4695C8AD4854AFC010EB73AD486B@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <ABDF6D80A1A84BD7A4B78B0B2EA29627@sniffer>

Good ideas indeed Andy, I just realized that the 1959 project I bought
earlier this year came with a title that was transferred in by the
owner-before-the-owner-before-me in 1990 but never filed.   When the PO gave
it to me he said all I had to do was take it to the DMV when the car was
ready to be put on the road as it would have to go through a safety
inspection before they would issue a new Utah title.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 1:24 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Government at its worst

Thanks to everyone who replied with a helpful spectrum of suggestions,
including trying a different RMV office, acting stupid (shouldn't be
difficult), getting the car titled first in CT, employing a "commissioner of
oaths", contacting a local state representative, securing a mechanic's lien
or "selling" the car to Dave in Dallas and have him sell it back to me.  For
varying amounts of money, I have even been promised an Alabama title. One
respondent said I shouldn't have waited so long and another that I shouldn't
be pointing fingers when it was my fault in the first place.

But I loved Terry Smith's reply:  "government can descend to depths much,
much darker and deeper than this frivolity".  How true !

So I am going to march through the suggestions and let the list know how I
make out.

Andrew
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.13/1826 - Release Date: 12/3/2008
9:34 AM

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Thu Dec  4 11:58:00 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2008 13:58:00 EST
Subject: [TR] FS: 1970 TR6 frame and body
Message-ID: <bd3.34ac62fe.36698238@aol.com>

For Sale:
1970 TR6 frame and body
currently located in rented space in Rock Hill, SC
priced for quick sale @ $600
 
 
see 45 pictures here: 
_http://s421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/LimeyV8/TR6%20frame%20and%20body/_ 
(http://s421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/LimeyV8/TR6%20frame%20and%20body/) 
see wordy description here: 
_http://www.vtr.org/classifieds/detail.php?siteid=3850_ (http://www.vtr.org/classifieds/detail.php?siteid=3850) 
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc


**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Thu Dec  4 20:18:45 2008
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2008 19:18:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] EARLY TR2 JACK WANTED
Message-ID: <49389D95.3050906@greenheart.com>

WANTED:  EARLY TR2 JACK

See image:
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll126/InvestorImage/WANTEDTR2Jack.jpg

Wanted:  Original Early TR2 Jack, Part Number 107652, Approximately 21 
inches long.  (Note the exposed threads.  Not looking for reproductions 
or later models.)  Also looking for these other original tools: 
"Spanner, tube 1/2" x .56" A/F", "Spanner, sparking plug", "Spanner, 
adjustable", "Tommy Bar", "Screwdriver", "Gauge, feeler, assembly".  I'm 
trying to put together the original tool kit for my very early 1954 
TR2.  Looking for good condition with a patina matching the age of the 
car and time spent in driven car.   (I'm not trying to put together a 
set that looks like it came from the factory yesterday.)

Let me know your price.   I could also trade silicone valve cover 
gaskets... once I have made another run of them.

Thanks

Justin
jmwagner at greenheart.com

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Thu Dec  4 21:00:32 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2008 20:00:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] Amusing TRF Shipping error
Message-ID: <4938A760.8060005@comcast.net>

I purchased a bunch of brake parts from TRF last summer during one of
their sales. I was rebuilding my brake calipers this evening and found a
shipping error. I opening my nice new brake pad box and found two rear
wheel cylinders neatly packed inside. I now have four rear wheel
cylinders and no brake pads. I will have to give the guys at TRF a call
tomorrow and see if it's worth straightening out the order.

I had purchased the cheap pads anyway, and had recently wondered if I
should have sprung for a set of the Green Stuff pads. Anybody want to
buy a pair of new rear TR3A wheel cylinders?

The nice part  about a project that takes many years, is that something
like this doesn't cause any delays. :-)

Mike

From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com  Fri Dec  5 11:05:45 2008
From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 10:05:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] Automatic Trans for Triumph
In-Reply-To: <4938A760.8060005@comcast.net>
References: <4938A760.8060005@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ED46BD415E424FB2A23891FF6408708B@rwa.local>

It seems that someone was looking for an automatic transmission for a TR.
Here is one I came across on Craigslist, San Francisco Bay Area  - NFI 
http://tinyurl.com/59fcmo 

I have no idea if a Borg Warner T35 BW-35 is the right one, as the seller
claims.

Roger Wilson

From nogera at worldnet.att.net  Fri Dec  5 11:25:15 2008
From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 12:25:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR head rebuild
Message-ID: <FFB78DD393F640D4A7BCB4F4F3315A28@Carroom>

Well the beat goes on, just returned from the machine shop that is
rebuilding the head for my engine. They pressure tested it and say there is
a very tiny leak around the edge of the aluminum plug that is located under
the valve cover in the center of the engine ( to see a picture of the
offending part go to http://www.texmog.com/Head.htm. The leak is very small
and definitely around the edge not through the plug itself.  They are
reluctant to try tapping the plug in more since neither they nor I know how
it is affixed nor if a replacement is available. 
 Note they pressure tested it at 40 lbs and I had them drop it to 20 psi (
the lowest the gauge would register) and the tiny bubbles remain. 
Any suggestions or advise out there? 

Bob    

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec  5 11:32:06 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 10:32:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR head rebuild
In-Reply-To: <FFB78DD393F640D4A7BCB4F4F3315A28@Carroom>
References: <FFB78DD393F640D4A7BCB4F4F3315A28@Carroom>
Message-ID: <08d801c95707$c74dc4c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> They pressure tested it and say there
> is a very tiny leak around the edge of the aluminum plug that is located
> under the valve cover in the center of the engine 

I believe the racers remove the original plug (which is cast in place), and
then tap the hole for a pipe plug or similar.  The leak very likely
indicates that the plug is corroded from below, so I wouldn't just ignore
the problem.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec  5 11:35:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 10:35:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] Automatic Trans for Triumph
In-Reply-To: <ED46BD415E424FB2A23891FF6408708B@rwa.local>
References: <4938A760.8060005@comcast.net>
	<ED46BD415E424FB2A23891FF6408708B@rwa.local>
Message-ID: <08d901c95708$39d42890$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I have no idea if a Borg Warner T35 BW-35 is the right one, as the seller
> claims.

BW35 is the right model, I believe; but I think the problem is that they are
not all the same.  Much like overdrives, details like mounting bolt
locations are subject to change depending on the application.

Randall

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Fri Dec  5 12:02:43 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 14:02:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Automatic Trans for Triumph
In-Reply-To: <08d901c95708$39d42890$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <4938A760.8060005@comcast.net>
	<ED46BD415E424FB2A23891FF6408708B@rwa.local> 
	<08d901c95708$39d42890$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W172D03D4DF5789A6989DF8A5FE0@phx.gbl>

> > I have no idea if a Borg Warner T35 BW-35 is the right one, as the seller>
> claims.> > BW35 is the right model, I believe; but I think the problem is
that they are> not all the same. Much like overdrives, details like mounting
bolt> locations are subject to change depending on the application.> >
Randall

I have e-mailed Jim Booth, who installed the automatic transmission in John
Warfield's old TR3 (the one referred to by Fred Thomas in another e-mail), and
he says that the type 35 is the model he used. However, it came from a Triumph
2000 saloon. The type 35 will need to be mated to a bellhousing from a Triumph
2000 and then it will work.

John H.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec  5 12:18:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 11:18:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] Automatic Trans for Triumph
In-Reply-To: <BLU143-W172D03D4DF5789A6989DF8A5FE0@phx.gbl>
References: <4938A760.8060005@comcast.net><ED46BD415E424FB2A23891FF6408708B@rwa.local>
	<08d901c95708$39d42890$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<BLU143-W172D03D4DF5789A6989DF8A5FE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001a01c9570e$510e9a80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> The type 35 will need to be mated to a
> bellhousing from a Triumph 2000 and then it will work.

If you look at the photo on Craigslist (or my Stag service manual); I think
you'll see that the bellhousing is an integral part of the BW35.  While you
are no doubt correct that changing the bellhousing will make it fit (if the
torque converter matches the flex plate, which matches the crankshaft), it's
by no means a trivial matter.

Starting with the Triumph parts makes it much easier.

Randall

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Fri Dec  5 12:20:23 2008
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 14:20:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR head rebuild
Message-ID: <1B56F5D2-A878-4CB9-B38A-BEBFC311A29B@mgcarclub.com>

> a very tiny leak around the edge of the aluminum plug that is  
> located under
> the valve cover in the center of the engine

> I believe the racers remove the original plug (which is cast in  
> place), and
> then tap the hole for a pipe plug

I have a pipe plug in my TR4. It was done a very long time ago, but I  
almost think that it is already tapped, in spite of the fact that it  
looks otherwise. Don't remember why or how I got the aluminum plug out.

Allen

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Dec  5 12:26:34 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 11:26:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 inner body restore
Message-ID: <297204.75820.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I'm currently working on cutting out rust and welding in new metal on
the inner body tr-3.  The radius area where the rear fenders meet the body is
a real mess especially drivers side.  The fenders are not my main concern as
much as the "overlap" area between where the inner body over laps the wheel
well.  These are spot welded together and also have the caged nuts welded in
behind on the wheel well part.  I'm cutting out small sections where I can see
bulging of the metal but not taking apart the complete seam all the way
round.  I then plan on sandblasting inside and out cleaning as much up as
possible followed by a good soaking/painting of POR-15 or some other anti
rust.......

I'm wondering if this is enuf.  Since I am this far along I'd
hate to be taking a shortcut which will show up a disapointment a year or two
later.  Which leads me to another general question.  There are many many
overlapping seams in a car which will never be taken apart and cleaned
up. Many of the seams I've opened up so far show rust but not rust holes which
means they've progressed that far over 40+ years without serious damage.  With
modern anti-rust paints available plus the fact that the car will never see
salt and probably rarely even be driven in the rain.............how concerned
should a person be regarding rust and its removal in all the little nooks and
crannies.

Also.............POR-15 a good product?  Any other products people
prefer?  anything cheaper? lol

thanks again everyone.

gary n.

From auprichard at comcast.net  Fri Dec  5 12:40:05 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 14:40:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr-3 inner body restore
In-Reply-To: <297204.75820.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <297204.75820.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <06A9853A3BA94F89AB6A33162027F523@DCH6RFC1>

Gary:  I just went through who you are now tackling and would suggest there
is no one way to do a job like this.  My opinion (and this page usually
volunteers several) is that there is no need to take apart seams which show
mild rust.  I welded patches over all rusted-through areas:  in others, I
used liberal amounts of seam sealer and POR-15.

My only additional comment is I had a terrible time trying to fit the
after-market dog-leg panels which run from the B posts to the wheel well. I
complained to Moss and was told they intended to re-tool for these
particular panels.  Don't know what happened - I ended up buying alloy ones
which I riveted on with no problem.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 2:27 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr-3 inner body restore

I'm currently working on cutting out rust and welding in new metal on
the inner body tr-3.  The radius area where the rear fenders meet the body
is
a real mess especially drivers side.  The fenders are not my main concern as
much as the "overlap" area between where the inner body over laps the wheel
well.  These are spot welded together and also have the caged nuts welded in
behind on the wheel well part.  I'm cutting out small sections where I can
see
bulging of the metal but not taking apart the complete seam all the way
round.  I then plan on sandblasting inside and out cleaning as much up as
possible followed by a good soaking/painting of POR-15 or some other anti
rust.......

I'm wondering if this is enuf.  Since I am this far along I'd
hate to be taking a shortcut which will show up a disapointment a year or
two
later.  Which leads me to another general question.  There are many many
overlapping seams in a car which will never be taken apart and cleaned
up. Many of the seams I've opened up so far show rust but not rust holes
which
means they've progressed that far over 40+ years without serious damage.
With
modern anti-rust paints available plus the fact that the car will never see
salt and probably rarely even be driven in the rain.............how
concerned
should a person be regarding rust and its removal in all the little nooks
and
crannies.

Also.............POR-15 a good product?  Any other products people
prefer?  anything cheaper? lol

thanks again everyone.

gary n.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From wmpless at iprimus.ca  Fri Dec  5 13:25:54 2008
From: wmpless at iprimus.ca (Wiard Pless)
Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2008 15:25:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR head rebuild
Message-ID: <49398E52.4050609@iprimus.ca>

My machine shop installed such a pipe plug into the cyl. head. Not the best looking 
solution but it works. Wiard



From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR head rebuild
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <08d801c95707$c74dc4c0$275636cc at jdnet.deere.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"


> > They pressure tested it and say there
> > is a very tiny leak around the edge of the aluminum plug that is located
> > under the valve cover in the center of the engine 
>   

I believe the racers remove the original plug (which is cast in place), and
then tap the hole for a pipe plug or similar.  The leak very likely
indicates that the plug is corroded from below, so I wouldn't just ignore
the problem.

Randall

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Fri Dec  5 17:11:27 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2008 16:11:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR head rebuild
In-Reply-To: <1B56F5D2-A878-4CB9-B38A-BEBFC311A29B@mgcarclub.com>
References: <1B56F5D2-A878-4CB9-B38A-BEBFC311A29B@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <4939C32F.7030308@comcast.net>

To quote Bob Schaller from "More BS about TR's", sketch 2 on page 3 says
"Leakers; knock out and screw in pipe plug". This implies that the hole
is already threaded.

Mine still has the original aluminum plug so I haven't seen the threads
myself.

Mike

Allen Hess wrote:
>> a very tiny leak around the edge of the aluminum plug that is located
>> under
>> the valve cover in the center of the engine
>
>> I believe the racers remove the original plug (which is cast in
>> place), and
>> then tap the hole for a pipe plug
>
> I have a pipe plug in my TR4. It was done a very long time ago, but I
> almost think that it is already tapped, in spite of the fact that it
> looks otherwise. Don't remember why or how I got the aluminum plug out.
>
> Allen

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Dec  5 18:33:50 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 18:33:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR head rebuild
In-Reply-To: <1B56F5D2-A878-4CB9-B38A-BEBFC311A29B@mgcarclub.com>
References: <1B56F5D2-A878-4CB9-B38A-BEBFC311A29B@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <9EA34311C6C24B7EBA516FD20FAF2FB0@sniffer>

Allen,
On my head the plug is tapped, looks like a 3/4 pipe thread but it may be
straight, I have not tried to replace it yet.  I had a bad head and decided
to try to drive it out but only succeeded in dropping it into the head.  

I should think that a machine shop could easily remove this and you could
then install a pipe plug or straight-thread plug as others have suggested.
Try McMasters-Carr for a 3/4 hex-drive plug similar to the one used for the
oil gallery on the block, I bought it from Mc-C, they called it a 3/4" dia.
set screw!

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allen Hess
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2008 12:20 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR head rebuild

> a very tiny leak around the edge of the aluminum plug that is located 
> under the valve cover in the center of the engine

> I believe the racers remove the original plug (which is cast in 
> place), and then tap the hole for a pipe plug

I have a pipe plug in my TR4. It was done a very long time ago, but I almost
think that it is already tapped, in spite of the fact that it looks
otherwise. Don't remember why or how I got the aluminum plug out.

Allen
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.14/1832 - Release Date: 12/5/2008
7:08 PM

From Catpusher at aol.com  Fri Dec  5 18:53:48 2008
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 20:53:48 EST
Subject: [TR] TR head rebuild
Message-ID: <bec.2d72718b.366b352c@aol.com>

The plug is threaded into the head and usually leaks only after extreme heat 
or chemical cleaning.
The very late factory TR4A heads had the outer top of the plug peened after 
installation (hint)
 
A race track fix is to drill and tap the center of the plug, and run a set 
screw into the hole after putting
a stout flat washer with on OD larger than the plug over the top of the plug. 
 Use sealer under the washer
and on the setscrew. A copper flat sealing washer under the head of the 
setscrew is a good idea.  When you tighten the set screw, it pulls on the plug 
threads in the head and helps seal them.  I raced a head with this fix for many 
seasons, and no water ever leaked into the oil.
 
Hardy

From: "Bob Nogueira" <nogera at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: [TR] TR head rebuild
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>


Well the beat goes on, just returned from the machine shop that is
rebuilding the head for my engine. They pressure tested it and say there is
a very tiny leak around the edge of the aluminum plug that is located under
the valve cover in the center of the engine ( to see a picture of the
offending part go to http://www.texmog.com/Head.htm. The leak is very small
and definitely around the edge not through the plug itself.  They are
reluctant to try tapping the plug in more since neither they nor I know how
it is affixed nor if a replacement is available. 
Note they pressure tested it at 40 lbs and I had them drop it to 20 psi (
the lowest the gauge would register) and the tiny bubbles remain. 
Any suggestions or advise out there? 

Bob    


**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sat Dec  6 08:48:47 2008
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2008 10:48:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Automatic Trans for Triumph
In-Reply-To: <001a01c9570e$510e9a80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <4938A760.8060005@comcast.net><ED46BD415E424FB2A23891FF6408708B@rwa.local>
	<08d901c95708$39d42890$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<BLU143-W172D03D4DF5789A6989DF8A5FE0@phx.gbl>
	<001a01c9570e$510e9a80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <493A9EDF.4070802@frontiernet.net>

The bell housing is not integral to the BW35. Every time (and there were 
more than a few) I needed to remove the BW35 from my Stag, I would 
unfasten it from the bell housing and leave the bell housing and the 
torque converter in the car.

George Richardson



Randall wrote:
>> The type 35 will need to be mated to a
>> bellhousing from a Triumph 2000 and then it will work.
>>     
>
> If you look at the photo on Craigslist (or my Stag service manual); I think
> you'll see that the bellhousing is an integral part of the BW35.  While you
> are no doubt correct that changing the bellhousing will make it fit (if the
> torque converter matches the flex plate, which matches the crankshaft), it's
> by no means a trivial matter.
>
> Starting with the Triumph parts makes it much easier.
>
> Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Dec  6 09:22:21 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 11:22:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Trailing Arm Thread Repair
Message-ID: <BF338636EE2F4D84981660F7CA077C75@BOBSNEWPC>

I'm planning on removing the 5 hub attachment studs from the Trailing Arms,
drilling out the threads and inserting Keen-Serts. This will give me proper
threads without worry of stripping them. Once these are in place is there
any reason why I can't replace the studs with bolts? The inserts will allow
for more then adequate torquing and I could also use Locktite. 

Just thinking out loud here.

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Dec  6 11:45:41 2008
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 13:45:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Trailing Arm Thread Repair
In-Reply-To: <BF338636EE2F4D84981660F7CA077C75@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <20081206184541.O1PI4.184299.root@cdptpa-web02-z02>

Bob, why do you feel the need to do this? Are some of them torn now? I've run my TR 4A since 1969 when I bought it and the trailing arm threads are fine as are the studs. I've had them apart too many times to remember too. I don't believe they will suddenly strip if they are good now and are properly torqued. If they are stripped then by all means fix them, I'd stay with the studs myself as assembly is much easier than trying to align for bolts.
Does anyone (non-competition) have the experience that these will just pull out at some point?
JVV

---- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: 
> I'm planning on removing the 5 hub attachment studs from the Trailing Arms,
> drilling out the threads and inserting Keen-Serts. This will give me proper
> threads without worry of stripping them. Once these are in place is there
> any reason why I can't replace the studs with bolts? The inserts will allow
> for more then adequate torquing and I could also use Locktite. 
> 
> Just thinking out loud here.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
> _______________________________________________

From jat1127 at hotmail.com  Sat Dec  6 10:22:16 2008
From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor)
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 12:22:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 6 TEST drive  New England
Message-ID: <BLU139-W517C9EF040A516B49D84EAB5FF0@phx.gbl>

Listers,

 I have a pair of TR 8's a coupe and an ots. I ahve been thinking of buying a
TR 6 and would like to ask a favor.

Is there someone near me with a TR 6 that is not yet in winter storage that
would be willing to take me for a ride?

Yes, I would certainly be willing to bring along my TR 8 contvertable.

  Thank YouJohn John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE
* Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first.
_________________________________________________________________
You live life online. So we put Windows on the web.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/127032869/direct/01/

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Dec  6 10:35:25 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 12:35:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Trailing Arm Thread Repair
In-Reply-To: <20081206184541.O1PI4.184299.root@cdptpa-web02-z02>
References: <BF338636EE2F4D84981660F7CA077C75@BOBSNEWPC>
	<20081206184541.O1PI4.184299.root@cdptpa-web02-z02>
Message-ID: <F16E19C6FF9B48B29ACC46744431037E@BOBSNEWPC>

Jerry,
I have a couple of studs that I tighten more by feel then by torque. I have
one that was stripped and I fixed that with a Keen-Sert. It's just one of
those projects called....WIINIMAW.... Or While I'm In There I Might As
Well........ A term I've stolen from Paul Rego :-)

But then again, I might not do it.......


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jerryvv at roadrunner.com
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 1:46 PM
To: Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Trailing Arm Thread Repair

Bob, why do you feel the need to do this? Are some of them torn now? I've
run my TR 4A since 1969 when I bought it and the trailing arm threads are
fine as are the studs. I've had them apart too many times to remember too. I
don't believe they will suddenly strip if they are good now and are properly
torqued. If they are stripped then by all means fix them, I'd stay with the
studs myself as assembly is much easier than trying to align for bolts.
Does anyone (non-competition) have the experience that these will just pull
out at some point?
JVV

---- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: 
> I'm planning on removing the 5 hub attachment studs from the Trailing 
> Arms, drilling out the threads and inserting Keen-Serts. This will 
> give me proper threads without worry of stripping them. Once these are 
> in place is there any reason why I can't replace the studs with bolts? 
> The inserts will allow for more then adequate torquing and I could also
use Locktite.
> 
> Just thinking out loud here.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Dec  6 11:33:50 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2008 13:33:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 6 TEST drive  New England
In-Reply-To: <BLU139-W517C9EF040A516B49D84EAB5FF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <493A7F3E.16948.892B120@localhost>

On 6 Dec 2008 at 12:22, john taylor wrote:

> Is there someone near me with a TR 6 that is not yet in winter
> storage that would be willing to take me for a ride?
> 
> Yes, I would certainly be willing to bring along my TR 8
> contvertable.

Good timing, John.  We're supposed to get snow tomorrow.

I'd love to help out but don't really know much about TR6's.  Just 
curious, why do you need someone with a TR6 to take along?  Wouldn't 
a simple expert-owner be sufficeint even if his/her car is already 
put away?

Hmm, I know some folks who live in Gloucester, but they sure aren't 
LBC people.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Dec  6 12:28:43 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 14:28:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Trailing Arm Thread Repair
In-Reply-To: <20081206184541.O1PI4.184299.root@cdptpa-web02-z02>
References: <BF338636EE2F4D84981660F7CA077C75@BOBSNEWPC>
	<20081206184541.O1PI4.184299.root@cdptpa-web02-z02>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W11F8AA9E7595E2637A63ACBAFF0@phx.gbl>

I think I agree with Jerry. Proper torque is the key though. If previous
tightening was a little heavy handed there is not much holding power left
though IMHO. Putting in heli-coils isn't that big of job.

Marty

> Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 13:45:41 -0500
> From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com
> To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; 6pack at autox.team.net;
triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Trailing Arm Thread Repair
>
> Bob, why do you feel the need to do this? Are some of them torn now? I've
run my TR 4A since 1969 when I bought it and the trailing arm threads are fine
as are the studs. I've had them apart too many times to remember too. I don't
believe they will suddenly strip if they are good now and are properly
torqued. If they are stripped then by all means fix them, I'd stay with the
studs myself as assembly is much easier than trying to align for bolts.
> Does anyone (non-competition) have the experience that these will just pull
out at some point?
> JVV
>
> ---- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:
> > I'm planning on removing the 5 hub attachment studs from the Trailing
Arms,
> > drilling out the threads and inserting Keen-Serts. This will give me
proper
> > threads without worry of stripping them. Once these are in place is there
> > any reason why I can't replace the studs with bolts? The inserts will
allow
> > for more then adequate torquing and I could also use Locktite.
> >
> > Just thinking out loud here.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > Bob Danielson
> > 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> > _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_12
2008

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Dec  6 14:44:20 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2008 16:44:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Got the tranny out
Message-ID: <493AABE4.32491.9411A1C@localhost>

Yahoo, sort of.  Got the GT6 gearbox out.  Sure didn't expect to find 
the time but it made itself available.  The garage wasn't too cold 
and it isn't snowing yet.  Now I can start disassembly, which must be 
the reverse of assembly, I am sure...

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Dec  6 16:25:41 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 18:25:41 EST
Subject: [TR] 3A fuel pump
Message-ID: <cdf.404ef2a5.366c63f5@aol.com>

One thing I have never noticed about the original TR3A fuel pump (with the  
prime lever and glass sediment bowl), is that there is a hole in the body of 
the  pump between the pump itself and the glass bowl.  I am now noticing it  
because fuel is spewing out of it.  What concerns me is that this hole is  below 
the diapragm which likely means that whatever fuel is not spewing from the  
hole is making its way to the crank case.  The diaphragm is leaking without  a 
doubt.  This only happened after I changed the oil and filter and  saw no 
evidence of this after I came back from a drive (smell of gas/stain on  the floor). 
 I only started it to move it in the garage a couple of hours  later and the 
strong smell got my attention.
Two things:  I am not really excited about changing the oil again. I  gave it 
the sniff test and it seems to pass OK.
This pump rebuild kit has been in the car for about 300 - 400 miles.   It is 
a red rubber diaphragm and there is a red stain being left on the  bottom of 
the pump from the fuel coming out of the hole. Does someone have  experience 
with another rebuild kit that is better than this?  I think I  got it from VB 
but not sure.
 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Stay in touch with ALL of your friends: update your AIM, Bebo, 
Facebook, and MySpace pages with just one click. The NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000012)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec  6 16:32:36 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 15:32:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] 3A fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <cdf.404ef2a5.366c63f5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20081206233236.BGWT29639.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Does someone have  experience with another rebuild kit that 
> is better than this?  I think I  got it from VB but not sure.

TRF sells rebuild kits with diaphragms that will stand up to modern fuel.

They even include the secondary seal; that keeps crankcase fumes away from
the diaphragm, and helps keep fuel out of the crankcase if the diaphragm
fails.

Randall

From david.greed at wave.co.nz  Sun Dec  7 11:42:22 2008
From: david.greed at wave.co.nz (David Greed)
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2008 07:42:22 +1300
Subject: [TR] J-type Overdrive not engaging quickly
Message-ID: <1228675342.12087.334.camel@louie.greedsville.net>

Hi all

I have recently had the transmission on my Stag with J-Type overdrive
completely stripped and reassembled by a gearbox specialist after the
discovery of a lot of swarf in the overdrive filter. The nature of the
swarf indicated that there was significant issues within the gearbox /
overdrive unit. This was undertaken when the overdrive stopped working
and it was deemed that the electrical components were working correctly.

While it was discovered that the gearbox did require a new layshaft and
bearings, the rest of the gearbox and overdrive looked fine, so it was
all reassembled and installed back in the car. It was determined that
the swarf was from a previous gearbox rebuild many years ago (by the
same specialists, where the overdrive was not touched).

When I drive the car now, the overdrive is very slow to engage - where
previously it would engage smoothly and almost instantaneously, it now
engages smoothly but anywhere between four and six seconds after
commanding it to do so at the switch. Disengagement is instantaneous.
Another issue, for which it is going back for rework, is that they have
bypassed the inhibitor switch that only allows engagement in 3rd and
4th...

Any clues as to why the engagement is slow? I can them give them
suggestions when I request the electrics be sorted correctly...

Cheers


DavidG

From david.greed at wave.co.nz  Sun Dec  7 12:46:50 2008
From: david.greed at wave.co.nz (David Greed)
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2008 08:46:50 +1300
Subject: [TR] [stag] Re: J-type Overdrive not engaging quickly
In-Reply-To: <1228678135.12087.337.camel@louie.greedsville.net>
References: <1228678135.12087.337.camel@louie.greedsville.net>
Message-ID: <1228679210.12087.342.camel@louie.greedsville.net>

Interesting... thanks Julian

I'll get them to check that..., even though I would hope that the
"experts" would have checked that when they put it all back together...


DavidG

On Sun, 2008-12-07 at 19:27 +0000, J Kuipers wrote:

> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> In my case concerning slow OD engagement the cause was a low oil level.  I topped it up and the OD (J-type) now engages within a second.
> 
> Julian
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------- 
> Sent from TriumphStag.NET    http://192.94.170.51/start/phorum

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Sun Dec  7 13:46:24 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2008 13:46:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Wind blocker????
Message-ID: <DAE322F8-6AA2-4039-BAA5-0456FFA7529D@cox.net>

I remember Bob Danielson talking about installing a wind blocker on  
his TR6.  As the weather begins to turn chilly here in Phoenix I was  
thinking about trying to do the same for my TR3.  I would drive the TR  
to work more often in the "winter" here if I had a wind blocker & was  
trying to figure if I could build or install one on my TR3A.

Do if anyone knows of any available kits or sources of information for  
a TR3A wind blocker?

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From wbmcleod at gmail.com  Sun Dec  7 14:04:10 2008
From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod)
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2008 14:04:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Wind blocker????
In-Reply-To: <DAE322F8-6AA2-4039-BAA5-0456FFA7529D@cox.net>
References: <DAE322F8-6AA2-4039-BAA5-0456FFA7529D@cox.net>
Message-ID: <8D771295-5C5F-46F5-BADD-40D8C0BB2299@gmail.com>

Check with these guys....
http://www.lbcarco.com/wind-blocker.htm

NFI, Never done any business, don't know them

Bill

On Dec 7, 2008, at 1:46 PM, 60TR3A wrote:

> ....  I would drive the TR
> to work more often in the "winter" here if I had a wind blocker & was
> trying to figure if I could build or install one on my TR3A.
>
> Do if anyone knows of any available kits or sources of information for
> a TR3A wind blocker?
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sat Dec  6 14:23:12 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 15:23:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Gold plated Triumph
Message-ID: <380-220081266212312500@earthlink.net>

I remember seeing very small gold plated Triumphs in various catalogs a few
years back. Now Christmas is coming and I would like to get some for gifts.
Am I going senile or did these items really exist? Does anyone have any of
them and can tell me where you got them?


Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN








_

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec  7 14:23:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2008 13:23:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A Wind blocker????
In-Reply-To: <DAE322F8-6AA2-4039-BAA5-0456FFA7529D@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20081207212350.MEEK20835.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Do if anyone knows of any available kits or sources of 
> information for a TR3A wind blocker?

I assume you are aware of the "wind wings" available from Moss et al to go
on the side of the windshield.  They definitely help at low speeds, but
their effectiveness falls off above 40 mph.

Sorry I can't find any photos, but several TR3 owners around here have
adopted additional "wings", that fit into the front sidecurtain mount,
extend over the door, and have a Plexiglas piece that follows (roughly) the
edge of the door parallel to the ground.  I believe the original idea came
from Herman van den Akker (as shown on his daughter's TR3A); but I don't
know if he made any more or if other people just copied the concept.  You
might contact him to see if he can supply them, or perhaps drawings.  It
wouldn't be hard to fabricate yourself.

Here's one photo, but the wings are nearly invisible, so it's not much help:
http://web.mac.com/sctoa/SCTOA/H%26HVDA-BBQ.html#6

Oh wait, here's a picture of Heide's car that is much clearer
http://www.socaltriumphs.org/images/clubcars/heide's%202002.jpg

Randall

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sun Dec  7 15:03:17 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 07 Dec 2008 17:03:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Wind blocker????
In-Reply-To: <DAE322F8-6AA2-4039-BAA5-0456FFA7529D@cox.net>
References: <DAE322F8-6AA2-4039-BAA5-0456FFA7529D@cox.net>
Message-ID: <8CB26CEBE15E7BC-3B4-6F6@WEBMAIL-MC11.sysops.aol.com>

 John,

I built one for my TR6 that is a little different design in that it can be raised and lowered and has glass(green tinted) instead of lexan or plexiglass.?? I put some notes on my progress at triumphowners.com/108 towards the bottom of the page under special projects.? It should be noted that the when I wrote the article and took the pictures on the site I used lexan and cut it with a dip in the middle.? When I replaced the lexan with glass I went with a straight top design.? Take a look and yell if you have any questions.? The set-up works very well.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: 60TR3A <60TR3A at cox.net>
To: Triumph car discussion Sports <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, 7 Dec 2008 3:46 pm
Subject: [TR] TR3A Wind blocker????










I remember Bob Danielson talking about installing a wind blocker on  
his TR6.  As the weather begins to turn chilly here in Phoenix I was  
thinking about trying to do the same for my TR3.  I would drive the TR  
to work more often in the "winter" here if I had a wind blocker & was  
trying to figure if I could build or install one on my TR3A.

Do if anyone knows of any available kits or sources of information for  
a TR3A wind blocker?

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Dec  7 16:38:15 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2008 18:38:15 EST
Subject: [TR] 3A Fuel Pump (more)
Message-ID: <be0.4b11c1b2.366db867@aol.com>

I removed the diaphragm from my pump and was amazed at what I found.   If 
anyone receives a rebuild kit with the red diaphragm, do not install  it.  First, 
when I was having trouble with idle at initial startup I  checked my floats 
(again) and when I opened the floats on the SUs I found a  reddish tint inside 
the float bowls.  I sucked out all the gas with a bulb  and cleaned them up 
and off I went.  Odd, says me.  For those who saw  my previous post, when the 
pump started leaking, where the fuel ran left a trail  of red stain. When I 
removed the diaphragm it was bleached out to a light  pink where it had been in 
contact with the fuel and the rubber was badly  perished ( 300 - 400 miles).  
If any suppliers are following this list, please remove these from  inventory.
 
I referred to a vent hole in the body of the pump from which fuel was  
spewing when the diaphragm gave way.  I looked more closely into this and  this is 
the deal.  That vent hole is at the lowest point in the pump body,  which is 
below the level at which the diaphragm shaft enters the pump body  through a 
rubber "seal".  The upshot here is that the fuel that bypasses  the diaphragm in 
this type of failure collects at the lowest point and exits the  hole.  I 
would not say that it does not go in the crankcase but the  hole and the "seal" 
are certainly going to minimize the possibility. Since  I picked my failure up 
almost immediately and the oil passed the sniff test, I  think I am good to go. 
  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Stay in touch with ALL of your friends: update your AIM, Bebo, 
Facebook, and MySpace pages with just one click. The NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000012)

From jfreynolds_99 at yahoo.com  Sun Dec  7 17:33:50 2008
From: jfreynolds_99 at yahoo.com (John Reynolds)
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2008 16:33:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Wiring
Message-ID: <616365.75715.qm@web30704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I am installing an overdrive transmission in my late TR3A Can anyone give me the correct wiring layout for this installation? I had to drill the dash for the switch and expect I will have to drill the firewall or tunnel cover for the wire pass through. Please advise the correct way the wires should go.
John Reynolds 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec  7 18:00:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2008 17:00:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Wiring
In-Reply-To: <616365.75715.qm@web30704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20081208010051.QHMY20835.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I had to drill the dash for the switch

That's odd.  The hole is supposed to be there, under the vinyl.

> and expect I will have to drill the firewall or tunnel cover for 
> the wire pass through. Please advise the correct way the 
> wires should go.

The original routing was through a hole in the side of the tunnel, near the
driver's right ankle (for a LHS car).  That hole should also be there on a
non-OD car, with a solid rubber plug.  However, I didn't like having mine
routed there, so I re-routed it through one of the existing holes in the
firewall (possibly the speedo cable hole, don't recall offhand).

The wiring diagram given in the workshop manual doesn't match what I found
on TS39781LO when I got it.  The diagram in "Practical Hints" 4th ed comes
much closer, but the comments still don't quite match.  But from looking
closely at several different photographs, I believe my car was correct.
I've attached the diagram from PH4.

43 is the operating switch on the dash.
44 is the relay, mounted to the back of the battery box
45 is fed from the ammeter terminal that also has the brown wire.
46 is the pair of lockout switches on the gearbox top cover (wired in
parallel).
47 is the operating solenoid on the OD
48 is fed from the "starter push" terminal that also has a white wire.

I also found it advantageous to install a diode across the relay contacts,
to help suppress arcing.  Don't recall the exact value I used, but it was
something like 2 amps 50 volts; just an ordinary power diode from the parts
bin.  Polarity depends on your battery polarity; since my car had been
converted to negative ground, I put the diode cathode to the wire to the
ammeter and anode to solenoid.

Randall

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of OD wiring.JPG]

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Sun Dec  7 18:10:55 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2008 20:10:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 inlet valve seals question
References: <DAE322F8-6AA2-4039-BAA5-0456FFA7529D@cox.net>
	<8CB26CEBE15E7BC-3B4-6F6@WEBMAIL-MC11.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <AEBF8560246D4A7CAE8E6F7DD6DC6CC2@D1TG6Y71>

My TR6 engine rebuild continues its slow progress ... the head is now ready 
for porting .... I now have a 1.3" template (an old inlet valve turned down 
to 1.3 as per Kas' instructions) ... if anyone wants a similar template (a 
valve turned down to 1.3"), let me know, and I'll send you one for the cost 
of shipping (I have 5 valves left!).

I am planning on using phosphor bronze guides, and wanted to use valve seals 
on the inlet side.  Does anyone have any specs. on suitable seals and any 
machining that might be needed on the new valve guides?  I plan to use 
double valve springs and 1.6 ratio rockers.

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
************************************** 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Dec  8 05:24:00 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 12:24:00 -0000
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
Message-ID: <83C6FC1916BF466AA6F3E3A9087520B6@Bevan>

Sorry to 'bomb' the list but I'd appreciate a little feedback a.s.a.p. A well-known Triumph parts 
supplier has most generously donated a sum of money for the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa fuel fund for 
'uncle jack' (the Stag) Given that gas prices are falling from the highs of 6 months ago, it's now 
*only* US$5.85 for 95 octane (RM) unleaded per imperial gallon at my UK supermarket. I think our 95 
octane stuff equates to 91 in the US. So what's the typical pump price per US gallon for 91 stuff? I 
need to work out how far the Stag will go on the value of this donation at current exchange rates 
before posting to the website.

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Dec  8 05:46:29 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 07:46:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
In-Reply-To: <83C6FC1916BF466AA6F3E3A9087520B6@Bevan>
References: <83C6FC1916BF466AA6F3E3A9087520B6@Bevan>
Message-ID: <30057232E5414797BCDAA7F68D5DF436@BOBSNEWPC>

It varies by region but probably under $2/gallon. Your best bet is to track
gas prices here http://www.gasbuddy.com/  This is a national database of gas
prices. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 7:24 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Gas prices

Sorry to 'bomb' the list but I'd appreciate a little feedback a.s.a.p. A
well-known Triumph parts supplier has most generously donated a sum of money
for the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa fuel fund for 'uncle jack' (the Stag) Given
that gas prices are falling from the highs of 6 months ago, it's now
*only* US$5.85 for 95 octane (RM) unleaded per imperial gallon at my UK
supermarket. I think our 95 octane stuff equates to 91 in the US. So what's
the typical pump price per US gallon for 91 stuff? I need to work out how
far the Stag will go on the value of this donation at current exchange rates
before posting to the website.

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  8 05:53:23 2008
From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 04:53:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 inlet valve seals question
In-Reply-To: <AEBF8560246D4A7CAE8E6F7DD6DC6CC2@D1TG6Y71>
Message-ID: <394234.78410.qm@web51303.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi Tony,
Check out the Moss Europe site, they reccomend MGB seals.  Ford umbrella seals seem to fit everything but double springs on a TR6 doesn't leave much room. I've been thinking about this too, the rocker oil feed kit puts a lot of oil up there!

Steve
--- On Sun, 12/7/08, Tony Gordon <triumph at 2simpleusa.com> wrote:

> From: Tony Gordon <triumph at 2simpleusa.com>
> Subject: [TR] TR6 inlet valve seals question
> To: "TR list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>, "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, December 7, 2008, 5:10 PM
> My TR6 engine rebuild continues its slow progress ... the
> head is now ready for porting .... I now have a 1.3"
> template (an old inlet valve turned down to 1.3 as per
> Kas' instructions) ... if anyone wants a similar
> template (a valve turned down to 1.3"), let me know,
> and I'll send you one for the cost of shipping (I have 5
> valves left!).
> 
> I am planning on using phosphor bronze guides, and wanted
> to use valve seals on the inlet side.  Does anyone have any
> specs. on suitable seals and any machining that might be
> needed on the new valve guides?  I plan to use double valve
> springs and 1.6 ratio rockers.
> 
> **************************************
> Tony Gordon
> 72 TR6
> **************************************
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as dogzbody1 at yahoo.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Dec  8 07:20:36 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2008 14:20:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
Message-ID: <120820081420.22994.493D2D3400069B14000059D222120592149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

If I could predict the price of oil on the world market and of gasoline on the retail level in the USA and Canada nine months from now, I'd be in a position to make a substantial amount of money.

As for right now, the gasoline price in Minnesota is about 1.60 USD for a US gallon.  That's for the cheap stuff.  Premium is about 1.80.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec  8 07:52:04 2008
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 06:52:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] J-type Overdrive not engaging quickly
Message-ID: <894481.77066.qm@web80406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greetings David,

If you want to better understand what's going on in your
Overdrive, it's very helpful to be able to measure the oil pressure the unit
is making.  Low oil pressure will cause the symptoms you are experiencing.
Initially for my own use, I've made up Oil Pressure Test Gauge Sets for use
with A/D, J & LH Type Laycock Overdrives. I offer these gauges sets for sale.
For more detail see: http://tinyurl.com/505s

brgds, Jay

'64 Triumph TR4
since '67

From dncullig at us.ibm.com  Mon Dec  8 08:00:44 2008
From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 10:00:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
Message-ID: <OF3A55469D.0EA75083-ON85257519.0051D08B-85257519.00527735@us.ibm.com>

  Here in the Mid-Hudson Valley of NY, regular (87 octane) has
JUST fallen below $2.00/gal and 91 octane is still up around
$2.25. Odds are it will go up slightly just before Christmas and
will start to spike again in April, just before the "driving sea-
son". The Saudis (and others) are threatening to cut back pro-
duction to drive the price back up so anything can (and probably
will) happen.  I'd not bet on the current prices staying as "low"
as they are now.

Dennis Culligan / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec  8 09:32:43 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 08:32:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
In-Reply-To: <83C6FC1916BF466AA6F3E3A9087520B6@Bevan>
Message-ID: <20081208163244.IFUR29639.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> So what's the typical pump price per 
> US gallon for 91 stuff? 

Prices are fluctuating wildly in the US; I typically see a 10-15% range in
prices just driving to work.  Plus it's not at all clear whether they will
rise again by next summer (typically they do go up in summer).

But at the moment, premium seems to be averaging about $2 per US gallon in
CA; which is typically somewhat higher than the remainder of the US.  I
would say that is a reasonable figure for planning purposes.

BTW, my US-spec Stags seem quite happy with "regular" fuel.

Randall

From smacsjunk at hotmail.com  Mon Dec  8 11:24:32 2008
From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 12:24:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
In-Reply-To: <83C6FC1916BF466AA6F3E3A9087520B6@Bevan>
References: <83C6FC1916BF466AA6F3E3A9087520B6@Bevan>
Message-ID: <BAY139-W559D6E1E591F6EAD19E23DBAFD0@phx.gbl>

Canadian prices are currently in the .90$Cdn per liter / roughly 3.10 $US per
US gallon. And remember US gallons are smaller than Imperial - I get caught
with this one every time I'm in the states doing mental milage calculations to
my next refueling destination.

cheers
Scott> > Sorry to 'bomb' the list but I'd appreciate a little feedback
a.s.a.p. A well-known Triumph parts > supplier has most generously donated a
sum of money for the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa fuel fund for > 'uncle jack' (the
Stag) Given that gas prices are falling from the highs of 6 months ago, it's
now > *only* US$5.85 for 95 octane (RM) unleaded per imperial gallon at my UK
supermarket. I think our 95 > octane stuff equates to 91 in the US. So what's
the typical pump price per US gallon for 91 stuff? I > need to work out how
far the Stag will go on the value of this donation at current exchange rates >
before posting to the website.> > Jonmac>
_________________________________________________________________

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec  8 11:43:53 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 13:43:53 EST
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
Message-ID: <c1a.4abfc778.366ec4e9@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/8/2008 9:01:56 AM Central Standard Time, 
dncullig at us.ibm.com writes: 
> The Saudis (and others) are threatening to cut back pro-
> duction to drive the price back up so anything can (and probably
> will) happen.  I'd not bet on the current prices staying as "low"
> as they are now.
> 
Exactly!  Their target price will result in gasoline costing in the $2.50 - 
3.00 range so I would use that for budgetary purposes.  If oil prices remain 
this low until next spring you can be sure OPEC will do something about it.

I don't mean to brag but St. Louis has some of the lowest prices around.  I 
have been filling the tank for $12 - 15.  I filled up today for $1.45/G.  At 
these prices, those who are still buying autos are buying SUV's again.

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec  8 11:58:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 10:58:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
In-Reply-To: <c1a.4abfc778.366ec4e9@cs.com>
References: <c1a.4abfc778.366ec4e9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <050c01c95966$ef5d3890$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> At
> these prices, those who are still buying autos are buying SUV's again.

Dunno about buying them; but I've noticed a huge increase in the number of
big SUVs and pickup trucks on the roads here in CA over the last few weeks.

Almost makes me wish for $4/gallon again ... almost.

Randall

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Dec  8 12:53:40 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 12:53:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Gas Prices
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1228762801.18973.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1228762801.18973.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <998270B8-F9F5-4064-8A83-8633C5C8F350@telus.net>

I don't know where you are but in Edmonton the local station has  
regular for 71.4 cdn per liter or $2.16 USD/USG

The discount gas station has regular at 68.4 or $2.07 USD/USG

>
> Canadian prices are currently in the .90$Cdn per liter / roughly  
> 3.10 $US per
> US gallon. And remember US gallons are smaller than Imperial - I  
> get caught
> with this one every time I'm in the states doing mental milage  
> calculations to
> my next refueling destination.

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Dec  8 12:56:11 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 12:56:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1228762801.18973.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1228762801.18973.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6FE30997-1384-4FBE-BAE3-C0E13D2FFD1F@telus.net>

Just another way for the "Gummint" to subsidize the idiots in charge  
of the big three. What a difference you'd see if Americans paid world  
priced for gasoline etc.

> Dunno about buying them; but I've noticed a huge increase in the  
> number of
> big SUVs and pickup trucks on the roads here in CA over the last  
> few weeks.
>
> Almost makes me wish for $4/gallon again ... almost.
>
> Randall

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Mon Dec  8 13:16:35 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 14:16:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
References: <mailman.4.1228762801.18973.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6FE30997-1384-4FBE-BAE3-C0E13D2FFD1F@telus.net>
Message-ID: <9EF54DC995784193B67AEF90CBFF28FE@KARL>

This is a Triumph list, not a political list.  But...

The "World" price - whatever that is - differs from the US price largely in 
the amount of tax added in each country.  The US doesn't have a stranglehold 
on the "World" oil supply and doesn't set "World" prices to keep gasoline 
artificially low-priced here.  And we certainly don't get any great deals 
from the multinational oil companies that supply us.

Karl


> Just another way for the "Gummint" to subsidize the idiots in charge
> of the big three. What a difference you'd see if Americans paid world
> priced for gasoline etc.

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Mon Dec  8 13:20:45 2008
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 15:20:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas Prices
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1228762801.18973.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OFE1F57B50.E21F6CE8-ON85257519.006F3009-85257519.006FC391@gsk.com>

In S.E. Pennsylvania, we have gas in the $1.70s. Yet my local gas station 
has diesel still at $3.50. I can't understand the economics of that, 
unless maybe just less competition on diesel with the opportunity to 
gouge.

Jonmac: This may be a helpful link: http://www.gasbuddy.com/
It gives gas prices across the US, mapped out, and offers a trip cost 
indicator.

Cheers,

Brian

From skip47 at clearwire.net  Mon Dec  8 14:01:07 2008
From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 13:01:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
References: <mailman.4.1228762801.18973.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6FE30997-1384-4FBE-BAE3-C0E13D2FFD1F@telus.net>
Message-ID: <DC9FAF5AA38743A9B89A3E87571519F2@ZEUS>

Some contrararian thoughts on the thread:
1. Who's the biggest supplier of oil to the US?  Canada.  then Saudia 
Arabia, then Venezuela, then Mexico.
2. The idiots in charge of the big three are in trouble not because of their 
cars (they've reacted a little to foreign competition), but because they 
loaned money out to people who can't repay them.  Just like the banks with 
mortgages and credit cards.
3. At my house, we ran the Tracer when gas prices rose.  It can't do things 
the Jeep can,  so those things were cut back, but not cut off, because I 
can't afford the debt to buy a new car, nor will I when the big three are 
out of business.  Other SUV owners think the same way and that's why they're 
back on the road.  They need them and can't buy something else.
4. World price differences for gasoline are exacerbated not by the price of 
gasoline, but the price of taxes.  In the US, there's a federal tax of 
$0.184%, and the states average $0.256 (total 0.44/gallon).
In Europe, they tax their people differently.  One of the differences is 
that gas is taxed more than here; see the following: 
http://money.cnn.com/pf/features/lists/global_gasprices/  and 
http://www.worldwide-tax.com/ .  Our taxes show up elsewhere, like social 
security, sales taxes, medicare, etc etc ad nauseum.
This is highly simplistic, of course.  Countries subsidize and/or own oil 
supplies and infrastructure, and politics is played with all of it.  In 
general, we can be fairly sure that in the "free" world, we work for the 
government about the same amount, being more than half the time.
Best,
Skip Gurnee
64 TR4
66 TR4A


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Spence" <dkspence at telus.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 11:56 AM
Subject: [TR] Gas prices


> Just another way for the "Gummint" to subsidize the idiots in charge
> of the big three. What a difference you'd see if Americans paid world
> priced for gasoline etc.
>
>> Dunno about buying them; but I've noticed a huge increase in the
>> number of
>> big SUVs and pickup trucks on the roads here in CA over the last
>> few weeks.
>>
>> Almost makes me wish for $4/gallon again ... almost.
>>
>> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as skip47 at clearwire.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Dec  8 14:28:48 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 16:28:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] CVJs Have Arrived
Message-ID: <988FDB1DE1284E898C4726493C18A072@BOBSNEWPC>

The Forum regulars will be sick of seeing this but I just took delivery of
Goodparts' brand new, back in stock, better designed and lower priced CVJs.
There's some pictures and Richard's explanation of the changes on my site
here: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CVJ.htm

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec  8 14:29:16 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 13:29:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] Gas Prices
In-Reply-To: <OFE1F57B50.E21F6CE8-ON85257519.006F3009-85257519.006FC391@gsk.com>
References: <mailman.5.1228762801.18973.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<OFE1F57B50.E21F6CE8-ON85257519.006F3009-85257519.006FC391@gsk.com>
Message-ID: <056501c9597c$06794f40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Yet my local gas station
> has diesel still at $3.50. I can't understand the economics of that,

In CA, the problem is supposedly a lack of refinery capacity combined with
recovering costs to build new refineries (or modify existing ones).  The
laws changed regarding diesel fuel composition (requiring very low sulfur
and aromatic content; with relatively high cetane) which required
substantial process modifications.  The mods are estimated to cost some $2
billion, just for CA.

Whether that applies to PA or not, I don't know.  But I do seem to recall
hearing that some other states were following our lead.

Randall

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Mon Dec  8 14:38:57 2008
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2008 16:38:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
In-Reply-To: <83C6FC1916BF466AA6F3E3A9087520B6@Bevan>
References: <83C6FC1916BF466AA6F3E3A9087520B6@Bevan>
Message-ID: <493D93F1.4000306@earthlink.net>

Here in Florida it is about $1.88 a gallon for 92.

Joe

John Macartney wrote:
> Sorry to 'bomb' the list but I'd appreciate a little feedback a.s.a.p. 
> A well-known Triumph parts supplier has most generously donated a sum 
> of money for the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa fuel fund for 'uncle jack' (the 
> Stag) Given that gas prices are falling from the highs of 6 months 
> ago, it's now *only* US$5.85 for 95 octane (RM) unleaded per imperial 
> gallon at my UK supermarket. I think our 95 octane stuff equates to 91 
> in the US. So what's the typical pump price per US gallon for 91 
> stuff? I need to work out how far the Stag will go on the value of 
> this donation at current exchange rates before posting to the website.
>
> Jonmac
>
> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Mon Dec  8 14:45:03 2008
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2008 16:45:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
In-Reply-To: <6FE30997-1384-4FBE-BAE3-C0E13D2FFD1F@telus.net>
References: <mailman.4.1228762801.18973.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6FE30997-1384-4FBE-BAE3-C0E13D2FFD1F@telus.net>
Message-ID: <493D955F.7040208@earthlink.net>

Sorry, won't work.  There are big SUVs the world over and European taxes 
haven't stopped our Euro cousins from driving big cars or trucks.   
Taxes have never changed attitudes.  Take smoking and drinking for 
example.  Only education does that.  And THAT takes time and effort.  
Not something we Yanks are known for anymore.

Don Spence wrote:
> Just another way for the "Gummint" to subsidize the idiots in charge  
> of the big three. What a difference you'd see if Americans paid world  
> priced for gasoline etc.
>
>   
>> Dunno about buying them; but I've noticed a huge increase in the  
>> number of
>> big SUVs and pickup trucks on the roads here in CA over the last  
>> few weeks.
>>
>> Almost makes me wish for $4/gallon again ... almost.
>>
>> Randall

From skip47 at clearwire.net  Mon Dec  8 15:11:53 2008
From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 14:11:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] gas prices
Message-ID: <A69F193E373347999FF05967C283F389@ZEUS>

Some contrararian thoughts on the thread:
1. Who's the biggest supplier of oil to the US?  Canada.  Then Saudia
Arabia, then Venezuela, then Mexico.
2. The idiots in charge of the big three are in trouble not so much because of
their
cars (they've reacted a bit to foreign competition), but because they spent
money beyond their means, and loaned it to bad risks.  Just like the banks
with
mortgages and credit cards.
3. At my house, we ran the Tracer when gas prices rose.  It can't do things
the Jeep can, so those things were cut back, but not cut off, because I
can't afford the debt to buy a new car, nor will I when the big three are
out of business.  Other SUV owners think the same way and that's why they're
back on the road.  We need them and can't buy something else.
4. World price differences for gasoline are exacerbated not by the price of
gasoline, but the price of taxes.  In the US, there's a federal tax of
$0.184%, and the states average $0.256 (total 0.44/gallon).
In Europe, they tax their people differently.  One of the differences is
that gas is taxed more than here; see the following:
http://money.cnn.com/pf/features/lists/global_gasprices/  and
http://www.worldwide-tax.com/ .  Our taxes show up with other names, like
social
security, sales tax, medicare, etc etc ad nauseum.  This is highly simplistic,
of course.  Many countries subsidize and/or own their oil supplies and
infrastructure, and politics and power are played with all of it.  In general,
we can be fairly sure that in the "free" world, we work for the government
(i.e.pay taxes) about the same amount, being more than half the time.
Best,
Skip Gurnee
64 TR4
66 TR4A

Don Spence wrote:

> Just another way for the "Gummint" to subsidize the idiots in charge
> of the big three. What a difference you'd see if Americans paid world
> priced for gasoline etc.
>
>> Dunno about buying them; but I've noticed a huge increase in the
>> number of big SUVs and pickup trucks on the roads here in CA over the last
>> few weeks.
>>
>> Almost makes me wish for $4/gallon again ... almost.
>>
>> Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Dec  8 15:50:10 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 22:50:10 -0000
Subject: [TR] Gas prices - revisited
Message-ID: <DF530AB16BE44C159D57975226760DC1@Bevan>

Hey guys, let's try and cool off some of the reasons that gas prices are as they are :):)
My post earlier today was merely to try to get a feel for current prices across the US and Canada 
with the sole objective of trying to work out how far 'uncle jack' would go on the donation made by 
Rimmers. A useful number have replied off-list for which my thanks - but frankly, I'm not too 
interested in who holds the keys to the oil wells or whether the current crisis with Ford, GM and 
Chrysler is forcing SUV's back on the road.
So to get the matter back on track, I've estimated 'uncle jack' will (maybe) give me 22mpag with a 
gallon costing me US$3.25 and the GBP/US$ rate holding at around US$1.45 = GBP1.00. On that basis, I 
should be able to travel 2450 miles before I run out of gas fund. By then, I estimate I'll be 
somewhere between Camden, Maine and Montreal, Canada - perhaps in no mans land between the two 
frontier posts!

Jonmac
Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
See latest event updates at www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From timipurdy at citlink.net  Mon Dec  8 15:54:19 2008
From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 14:54:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] Gas Prices
Message-ID: <735768415A9E42D9849045D06A84DD9C@Lahontan>

For premium in Northeastern California is $2.59 a gallon.

_______________________________________
No viruses found in this outgoing message
Scanned by iolo AntiVirus 1.5.4.5
http://www.iolo.com

From britishtr6 at gmail.com  Mon Dec  8 16:11:40 2008
From: britishtr6 at gmail.com (Jon M)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 15:11:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT: Carfax report needed, anyone has access?
Message-ID: <b50f8d260812081511p324380efu1a5e572439a0a28f@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

I am in need of a new daily (non-Triumph) vehicle and was wondering if
anyone can run a carfax for me?

Email me offlist if possible.

Thanks, Jon

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Dec  8 16:29:52 2008
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2008 18:29:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas prices - revisited
In-Reply-To: <DF530AB16BE44C159D57975226760DC1@Bevan>
References: <DF530AB16BE44C159D57975226760DC1@Bevan>
Message-ID: <DF1B1C69A8764033A9D9A2E618C6D7F7@CarlPC>

John - that is great.

To the list - Forgive me for the shameless plug for the 'fuel fund'.
Visit the Charity Drive home page at http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/
under the 'Recent Posts' section click on "... for the 'sartorially' 
inclined" and read about the shirts/hats and other items available in 
support of the drive.  Proceeds will help cover the expenses for John and 
"Uncle Jack"
Or the direct URL: http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/?p=143

Carl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 5:50 PM
Subject: [TR] Gas prices - revisited


> Hey guys, let's try and cool off some of the reasons that gas prices are 
> as they are :):)
> My post earlier today was merely to try to get a feel for current prices 
> across the US and Canada with the sole objective of trying to work out how 
> far 'uncle jack' would go on the donation made by Rimmers. A useful number 
> have replied off-list for which my thanks - but frankly, I'm not too 
> interested in who holds the keys to the oil wells or whether the current 
> crisis with Ford, GM and Chrysler is forcing SUV's back on the road.
> So to get the matter back on track, I've estimated 'uncle jack' will 
> (maybe) give me 22mpag with a gallon costing me US$3.25 and the GBP/US$ 
> rate holding at around US$1.45 = GBP1.00. On that basis, I should be able 
> to travel 2450 miles before I run out of gas fund. By then, I estimate 
> I'll be somewhere between Camden, Maine and Montreal, Canada - perhaps in 
> no mans land between the two frontier posts!
>
> Jonmac
> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
> See latest event updates at www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Mon Dec  8 16:39:13 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 16:39:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A measurements 4 Wind blocker
Message-ID: <139A900B-B314-4A9E-8869-1269BAD9CB0D@cox.net>

The Little British Car Co has a company that makes wind blockers for  
all LBCs except the TR3.  The reason they do not make one for the TR3  
is that they  have not been able to get a TR3 they could measure to  
get the proper dimensions.  I know it is a big place, but is there any  
TR3 driver who lives in West Virginia who would be willing to let them  
measure their car???

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Dec  8 17:03:09 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 19:03:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] bumper re-chrome update
Message-ID: <200812081903.09798.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Lists:

Well Sandy's called this morning and said my TR6 front bumper was done so I 
drove up to Syr. and picked it up.

I just unpacked and inspected it and my first impression is very good.

One of the list members from Rochester said that he tried Sandy's a few years 
ago for his 4A restoration and was not impressed.

Not sure if things have changed since but this looks very good.

I just finished putting a coat of Collinite wax on the entire bumper and will 
wrap it up in cellophane and bubble wrap as the restoration is just starting 
and I will not be mounting this bumper for about 2 years or so if I am lucky.

The 20% off bumpers offer is still on for the month of Dec. and if I can get 
the cash, I am going to have the rear 6 bumper re-plated as well.

May do the TR4 rear bumper also this spring. The current bumper is good for a 
daily driver but there is some spider-ing etc. But there is no surface rust 
like the 6 had.

I dont have a good before picture but the finished product is very nice.

For 288 + tax I figured it was worth a try.

Website: http://www.sandysbumpermart.com/

Bob

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Dec  8 17:04:10 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 19:04:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] CVJs Have Arrived
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD785@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD785@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0812081901170.13916@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 8 Dec 2008, Robert N. Clark wrote:

> What is the benefit of a cvj over the original set up?

less power is used up by the cv than a u-joint. some folks say a LOT of 
power gets sucked up at those joints. I have no emprical data, though.

But look at ANY new car since about 1985 and you won't find many u-joints 
except in trucks.

Bottom line - cv's are better.

Also note in the Goodparts setup that if the axle breaks the hub stays 
put. With the stock setup, if the outer axle stub breaks, you are SOL, for 
sure 'cause the wheel goes off in whatever direction it wants.

:-(

> Bob Clark
> '69 TR6

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Dec  8 17:44:48 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 17:44:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Wiring
In-Reply-To: <20081208010051.QHMY20835.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <616365.75715.qm@web30704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<20081208010051.QHMY20835.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0812081644p59c2e4dev6a17f63c5038ba87@mail.gmail.com>

A tip I picked up from this list was the addition of a Slow-Blow fuse
on the circuit powering the solenoid.  I used an 8 amp fuse.  The idea
is that this will allow the strong pull-in coil to operate momentarily
(as it should) but will blow if the internal switch controlling that
coil fails to cut out -- thus protecting the solenoid from damage.

Explicit details available to the curious.  Possibly worth doing while
one is in there with the wiring.

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Dec  8 18:02:59 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 18:02:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] CVJs Have Arrived
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0812081901170.13916@isis.mit.edu>
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD785@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0812081901170.13916@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <90D33B27D15443EFACB3DDF27B1134A2@newcomputer>

I don't think that it is a proper comparison between CV joints and U-Joints.
It is sorta like apples and oranges.  While both of them allow flexing of
the two things that are connected, the CV joint also allows inward and
outward movement.  

The CV joint is comparable to using a sliding shaft in conjunction with a
U-Joint to get movement in both directions.

I can't really comment on which is better on a TR6 but I have been using CV
joints in the rear suspension of my black Spitfire for several years.  I
haven't had any problems with them since I upgraded to CV-Joints that are
used on Porsche 930's.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 5:04 PM
To: Robert N. Clark
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; Bob Danielson
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] CVJs Have Arrived

On Mon, 8 Dec 2008, Robert N. Clark wrote:

> What is the benefit of a cvj over the original set up?

less power is used up by the cv than a u-joint. some folks say a LOT of 
power gets sucked up at those joints. I have no emprical data, though.

But look at ANY new car since about 1985 and you won't find many u-joints 
except in trucks.

Bottom line - cv's are better.

Also note in the Goodparts setup that if the axle breaks the hub stays 
put. With the stock setup, if the outer axle stub breaks, you are SOL, for 
sure 'cause the wheel goes off in whatever direction it wants.

:-(

> Bob Clark
> '69 TR6

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec  8 19:50:21 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 18:50:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Wiring
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0812081644p59c2e4dev6a17f63c5038ba87@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20081209025020.BYLV29639.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> The idea is that this will allow the strong 
> pull-in coil to operate momentarily (as it should) but will 
> blow if the internal switch controlling that coil fails to 
> cut out -- thus protecting the solenoid from damage.

In addition, if one puts the fuse close to the power source, it means one
less unfused wire running around, and a correspondingly lower chance of
electrical fire.

One could carry the concept a step farther by getting power for the switch
from the 'green' circuit (eg A4 at the fuse block).

BTW, although I also used a slow blow 8 amp fuse (mostly because I had a box
of MDL 8 fuses laying around); I believe an ordinary 5 or 10 amp fuse would
work fine.

Randall

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Dec  8 20:02:41 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2008 22:02:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] CVJs Have Arrived
In-Reply-To: <90D33B27D15443EFACB3DDF27B1134A2@newcomputer>
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD785@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0812081901170.13916@isis.mit.edu>
	<90D33B27D15443EFACB3DDF27B1134A2@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <20081209030240.KWGN128.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 08:02 PM 12/8/2008, Joe Curry wrote:
>I don't think that it is a proper comparison between CV joints and U-Joints.
>It is sorta like apples and oranges.  While both of them allow flexing of
>the two things that are connected, the CV joint also allows inward and
>outward movement.

Well, yeah.  But that's not the primary reason.  Recall that "CV" 
stands for "Constant Velocity"

A u-joint has a funky kind of motion as it rotates...the ends of the 
yokes go in and out, and so the speed changes slightly as it 
rotates.  The CV joint minimizes this.  A CV joint also eliminates 
the possible notchiness at extreme angles of input relative to output.

Some interesting mathematics 
here:  <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint>

And some pretty pictures here 
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constant-velocity_joint>


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Mon Dec  8 19:53:15 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2008 18:53:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] Sloppy Fan Extension
Message-ID: <493DDD9B.60304@comcast.net>

When I installed my TR3 fan extension on to the crank shaft snout, I
found that it was a little sloppy. Not a lot, but slightly perceptible
in the direction of the key-way. I coated it with Loctite 270 "stud and
bearing fit" and pulled it up tight with the mounting bolt. I have used
Loctite 270 a couple of times in the past on loose harmonic dampers with
good success, but they have been on things like SB Chevy's where the
damper doesn't stick out 8" from the end of the crank.

I am now second guessing what I have done. What's the opinion? Should I
pull it off and use something more like Loctite 660 "Quick Metal"
retaining compound?

I am afraid the forces caused by the fan on the end of the long
extension may be more than the Loctite 270 can handle.

Thanks,

Mike

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec  8 22:46:40 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 00:46:40 EST
Subject: [TR] Gas prices
Message-ID: <d24.3b69a065.366f6040@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/8/2008 1:56:21 PM Central Standard Time, 
dkspence at telus.net writes: 
> Just another way for the "Gummint" to subsidize the idiots in charge  
> of the big three. What a difference you'd see if Americans paid world  
> priced for gasoline etc.
> 
Don't forget the other big beneficiary, big oil.  (Not that they have any 
influence on the US government)

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec  8 23:03:09 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 01:03:09 EST
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
Message-ID: <cfe.469804e5.366f641d@cs.com>

FYI



http://www.autoblog.com/2008/12/08/man-builds-entire-jaguar-series-3-e-type-from-unused-factory-par/

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Tue Dec  9 04:31:49 2008
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 06:31:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Turn Signal Wiring 59 TR3A
Message-ID: <26C5D39872AF406BB039F741408DAF33@Scott>

I am back to finishing the wiring of my '59 TR3A. Do you run a ground wire
for each turn signal light (the round red lights on the tail) and do you run
the ground to the screw holding the socket to the body?  Also, for the
tail/brake lights, do you run the ground wire only for the left rear light
and again, to the mounting screw?  The turn signals are not in series so it
would seem they need to be grounded, while the tail lights/brake lights seem
to be in series. Thanks.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Dec  9 05:04:37 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 07:04:37 EST
Subject: [TR] Turn Signal Wiring 59 TR3A
Message-ID: <d08.475794cb.366fb8d5@aol.com>

Scott,
I just went and looked as I have done this recently.  I replaced my  tail 
light sockets as the bullet receptacles had broken in some places and the  PO 
repair was somewhat funky.  The new chrome bulb socket pieces have hard  ground 
bullet receptacles whereas the originals did not and relied on the screw  to 
body.  I ran a new black wire to a hard ground to the stud and nut that  holds 
the license plate light.  IMHO a hard ground is recommended for  tail/brake 
lights on a car that is so questionably visible.  Eliminate the  possibility of 
failure.
 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Stay in touch with ALL of your friends: update your AIM, Bebo, 
Facebook, and MySpace pages with just one click. The NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000012)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Dec  9 07:36:16 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 09:36:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
In-Reply-To: <cfe.469804e5.366f641d@cs.com>
References: <cfe.469804e5.366f641d@cs.com>
Message-ID: <B2E18F07224D40A6AD7F60FAD7EFB7F1@BOBSNEWPC>

That's amazing. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 1:03 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration

FYI



http://www.autoblog.com/2008/12/08/man-builds-entire-jaguar-series-3-e-type-
from-unused-factory-par/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From eoot at citlink.net  Tue Dec  9 09:32:50 2008
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 11:32:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A measurements 4 Wind blocker
References: <139A900B-B314-4A9E-8869-1269BAD9CB0D@cox.net>
Message-ID: <005801c95a1b$c7b56320$670a0a0a@MyComputski>

Do you know where in WV?


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "60TR3A" <60TR3A at cox.net>
To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 6:39 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3A measurements 4 Wind blocker


> The Little British Car Co has a company that makes wind blockers for  
> all LBCs except the TR3.  The reason they do not make one for the TR3  
> is that they  have not been able to get a TR3 they could measure to  
> get the proper dimensions.  I know it is a big place, but is there any  
> TR3 driver who lives in West Virginia who would be willing to let them  
> measure their car???
> 
> John
> 
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
> 
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
> 
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  9 09:41:33 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 08:41:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] Turn Signal Wiring 59 TR3A
In-Reply-To: <26C5D39872AF406BB039F741408DAF33@Scott>
Message-ID: <20081209164133.QVKX5190.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Do you run 
> a ground wire for each turn signal light (the round red 
> lights on the tail) and do you run the ground to the screw 
> holding the socket to the body?  Also, for the tail/brake 
> lights, do you run the ground wire only for the left rear 
> light and again, to the mounting screw?

I believe originally there were no ground wires for any of the rear lamps.
But I also believe that adding them is a good idea.  However, I don't trust
the mounting screws to have a good ground, as they only go into a metal clip
that may have paint or rust between it and the body.  Instead, I made up a
ground 'harness' that connected to one of the fuel tank mounting bolts, and
visited all the rear lamps.

> while the tail lights/brake lights seem to be in series.

None of the bulbs/lamps are supposed to be in series, they all need to be
securely grounded for proper operation.  The tail lights may seem to work
without a ground; until the brakes are applied at the same time (when the
ungrounded lamp will go out).

Randall

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Tue Dec  9 10:44:59 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 09:44:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
Message-ID: <106527.66473.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Sunday night my wife and I returned home after being away someplace warm for
almost two weeks.  The family car had sat unused in the driveway all that
time.  It lives outside because in the garage Trevor the TR6 has been resting
while waiting to go into storage. 

So, Monday morning brings the coldest day
of the year so far here in Vermont, -2 degrees in the morning.  Added to
that was 2 inches of new snow still falling on top of black-ice covered
roads.  The Saab won't start, and it won't take a jump from my battery
charger.  So I fire up the Triumph (no problem there of course) and try to
jump it from that.  No-go.  We need to get going as my wife HAS to be at
work early, and there's no time to wait for AAA.  So what do we end up driving
to work in?  You got it - the TR6.  All that new body work, paint job,
and pampered LBC life be damned.  I actually said "It's time to earn your keep
fella."  

Clothed for the office and with briefcases in hand, we both squeeze
into the Triumph and begin our silly looking and frightful commute.  With my
hands firmly gripping the wheel I slowly manuever through morning traffic up
and down hills of ice, snow, and slush.  And yes the salt trucks had been out
- further causing me greif.  It was un-freaking-believable.  I stayed within
my built in bubble of safety, not wanting to get anywhere near anyone.  Ever
notice how bad people drive, and the conditions are, when you're equipment
and/or conditions are compromised?  The stares coming back from other
drivers was a combination of confusion and amusement.  But we made it. 
After sitting outside my office all day, Trevor started up just fine for the
drive home.  Good thing I switch to 10W40 for late fall driving.  I then pick
up the wife and stop by Auto Zone for a new battery for the Saab.  When we
finally got home I was outside in the dark (it's now up to 6 degrees)
installing the battery, then hosing down the Triumph as best as I could before
putting it away again.  You should have seen the neighbors staring.  "There's
that crazy car guy out there again."  It's actually supposed to warm up some
tomorrow so I'll be taking it out again for a full bath and rubdown before
going back in the garage and ready for the next rescue.

Joe Merone
South
Burlington, VT
CF18928 5-speed
Presently covered in a little slush and salt 

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue Dec  9 11:06:02 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 13:06:02 EST
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 to the rescue
Message-ID: <c8c.31f51716.36700d8a@cs.com>

Great story!  

I used to drive a Bugeye Sprite to work in the winter....and before I had 
parking spot with a name on it. 

I could find spaces no one else could, and if need be I could nose in & slide 
the rear over in a tight spot, on the packed snow.

(The conservative Iowa John Deere personnel thought the whole exercise was 
bizarre. I was one of the very few in the entire parking lot that variously 
drove a Karmann Ghia, Sprite, Volvo 1800, TR4A, and TR3A to work over the years)

Joe A

> Sunday night my wife and I returned home after being away someplace warm for
> almost two weeks.  The family car had sat unused in the driveway all that
> time.  It lives outside because in the garage Trevor the TR6 has been resting
> while waiting to go into storage. 

From coefront at shaw.ca  Tue Dec  9 11:05:03 2008
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 11:05:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Joe - TR6 to the rescue
Message-ID: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDGEPJDEAA.coefront@shaw.ca>

Good for you Joe. For the five years I owned my TR6 it was a superb car to
drive in the snow. The car having almost 50/50 handling on ice and snow.
Quite good fun actually. And it was my business car [that "never" let me
down as I regularly maintained and looked after it] as an insurance adjuster
in Vernon. B.C. My territory included Vernon, Salmon Arm, Revelstoke,
Golden, and Nelson. The trip to the Revelstoke / Golden in the Canadian
Rockies area most often following an early a.m. nasty vehicle accident call.
A great fun car to drive at any time. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca TR8.

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Tue Dec  9 11:12:31 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 10:12:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for rechrome shops in around PDX / Spokane
Message-ID: <C964B6E9D8EF4DC5A06E460BD28FDB5D@Induninwlaptop>

Hi all,

 

I'm looking for some recommendations for plating shops in and around
Portland and/or Spokane. I have a rear bumper and luggage rack needing some
new shinny put on.

 

Thanks!

 

Brian

1967 TR4A

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Tue Dec  9 11:14:55 2008
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2008 13:14:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
In-Reply-To: <106527.66473.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <106527.66473.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <493EB59F.70603@earthlink.net>

Wow, and I worry about going out in the RAIN with the bad drivers here 
in Florida.  I think I'll quit whining about that now.

Joe
72 TR6
84 308GTS

PS: The classic cars have saved my wife from missing work when her 5 
series has died with electrical issues.  (German engineering my a$$)

Joe Merone wrote:
> Sunday night my wife and I returned home after being away someplace warm for
> almost two weeks.  The family car had sat unused in the driveway all that
> time.  It lives outside because in the garage Trevor the TR6 has been resting
> while waiting to go into storage. 
>
> So, Monday morning brings the coldest day
> of the year so far here in Vermont, -2 degrees in the morning.  Added to
> that was 2 inches of new snow still falling on top of black-ice covered
> roads.  The Saab won't start, and it won't take a jump from my battery
> charger.  So I fire up the Triumph (no problem there of course) and try to
> jump it from that.  No-go.  We need to get going as my wife HAS to be at
> work early, and there's no time to wait for AAA.  So what do we end up driving
> to work in?  You got it - the TR6.  All that new body work, paint job,
> and pampered LBC life be damned.  I actually said "It's time to earn your keep
> fella."  
>
> Clothed for the office and with briefcases in hand, we both squeeze
> into the Triumph and begin our silly looking and frightful commute.  With my
> hands firmly gripping the wheel I slowly manuever through morning traffic up
> and down hills of ice, snow, and slush.  And yes the salt trucks had been out
> - further causing me greif.  It was un-freaking-believable.  I stayed within
> my built in bubble of safety, not wanting to get anywhere near anyone.  Ever
> notice how bad people drive, and the conditions are, when you're equipment
> and/or conditions are compromised?  The stares coming back from other
> drivers was a combination of confusion and amusement.  But we made it. 
> After sitting outside my office all day, Trevor started up just fine for the
> drive home.  Good thing I switch to 10W40 for late fall driving.  I then pick
> up the wife and stop by Auto Zone for a new battery for the Saab.  When we
> finally got home I was outside in the dark (it's now up to 6 degrees)
> installing the battery, then hosing down the Triumph as best as I could before
> putting it away again.  You should have seen the neighbors staring.  "There's
> that crazy car guy out there again."  It's actually supposed to warm up some
> tomorrow so I'll be taking it out again for a full bath and rubdown before
> going back in the garage and ready for the next rescue.
>
> Joe Merone
> South
> Burlington, VT
> CF18928 5-speed
> Presently covered in a little slush and salt 

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue Dec  9 12:32:01 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 14:32:01 EST
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
Message-ID: <ce7.413297ac.367021b1@aol.com>

Joe,
 
What a great story....do you all remember when we had to drive these  cars 
through ice and snow because a TR was all we owned!!??
 
I have to admit I almost took my beautifully restored TR6 out for a spin in  
a freak pre-Thanksgiving snow a couple of weeks ago before the salt  trucks 
got out.  I was planning to wash it anyway before its winter nap and  this 
little devilish voice in my head said "take it out - live the  moment"!
 
Instead I reflected on how many white knuckle drives I took home from  
college in my TR3 in the snow with Firestone Town & Country studded snow  tires in 
the rear and a very heavy cast metal picnic table umbrella weight in  the boot 
for traction...then I had another sip of Captain Morgans:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 12/9/2008 12:45:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jmerone at rocketmail.com writes:

So what  do we end up driving
to work in?  You got it - the  TR6. 

**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Tue Dec  9 13:06:28 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 15:06:28 EST
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
Message-ID: <cd1.418f2a78.367029c4@aol.com>

Joe:
If the battery in the TR6 was strong enough to start the TR, it would have 
been strong enough to jump the Saab.  I think it is time for you to invest in a 
good set of jumpers.  I made a set by going to a welding supply shop and 
buying 25 feet of 1 gauge cable and four "gorilla" clamps (called that since my 
wife can't open them).  The $24.95 jumpers from any of the Marts are not worth 
carrying home!!  You will have $50 or so invested but Trevor will thank you.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana




**************
Stay in touch with ALL of your friends: update your AIM, Bebo, 
Facebook, and MySpace pages with just one click. The NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&amp;icid=aolcom40vanity&amp;ncid=emlcntaolcom00000012)

From mrv8q at aim.com  Tue Dec  9 13:45:08 2008
From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com)
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2008 15:45:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
In-Reply-To: <cd1.418f2a78.367029c4@aol.com>
References: <cd1.418f2a78.367029c4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CB285627FF1316-13DC-178@mblk-d48.sysops.aol.com>

If the battery in the TR6 was strong enough to start the TR, it would have 
been strong enough to jump the Saab. 
 


If it's a newer Saab, be careful... I've heard horror stories of damaged audio systems

just from jumping the batteries on these (GM) Saabs. Supposedly, they have very
finicky electronics. As an owner of an '04 9.3, I'm petrified if my wife's car needs 
a jump. From what I've heard, at least pull the relay for the audio, before jumping...



Best, Kevin Browne

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue Dec  9 13:57:24 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 15:57:24 EST
Subject: [TR]  TR6 to the rescue and other wintertime stories
Message-ID: <ca9.3d051c9f.367035b4@cs.com>

Chip, Thanks for kind word.  I have another  snowtime story and parking......

My first LBC was a MG TD in 1962.  I lived downtown over a Restaurant & 
Lounge in Charles City, Iowa, while working for White Farm Equipment.

It was snowing those huge snow flakes in the evening and I was approaching a 
street parking spot off of Main.........from the opposite direction.

I flicked the steering wheel left, gave it a little gas, and slid sideways in 
the parallel parking spot, neatly between two other cars..about 3 inches from 
the high curbing, common in those days.

Now this was a very dark side street, and I was unaware of the two shiny 
official issue high top leather boots standing there........until I looked through 
the side curtain.

I got out, glanced his way, and kept on walking. This city cop never said a 
word, but I am pretty sure he was shaking his head. (There was only one of 
these cars in Charles City, so there was no question he knew who it was)

This same TD was known to pull an upside down car hood behind it with 
screaming girls on the frozen Cedar River....but that's another story.

Joe A

 


> Joe,
> 
> What a great story....do you all remember when we had to drive these  cars 
> through ice and snow because a TR was all we owned!!??

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Tue Dec  9 14:10:57 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 16:10:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
In-Reply-To: <493EB59F.70603@earthlink.net>
References: <106527.66473.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<493EB59F.70603@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <80B60F47-19D9-4D17-B06F-3137EC17DA43@mindspring.com>

I'm not sure this qualifies, but last year my wife called me on the  
cell phone.  It seems the um, German sedan, was acting up.  Virtually  
all the lights were on in the dash and it would only proceed at a 5  
mph rate.  Thinking I had a handle on things I hopped in my daily  
driver, but grabbed the battery out of the TR6.  I believed the  
alternator had probably gone south, so I installed the TR battery and  
drove the Merc home.  While the Triumph didn't rescue my wife, the  
years of ownership had taught me a little bit of diagnostic lessons.

The repair shop tried to tell me it was just the battery, but I  
pressed my point and was ultimately proven correct.  You see, driving  
a Triumph is not only fun but educational too.

Ashford Little
'70 TR6

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec  9 14:45:07 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Tue,  9 Dec 2008 16:45:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] ...and other wintertime stories
Message-ID: <20081209164507.BTW36638@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

N197TR4 wrote:
> I have another snowtime story and parking...

Interesting story.  The Finest of Charles City must have been in a good mood!

One of my minor *unintentional* winter-in-a-sports-car episodes was this. Driving my Fiat 124 Spider on a cold, damp but non-snowy night I coasted sedately to a stop at a stoplight.  Calmly the car's speed hit zero, and within milliseconds calmly the car began sliding directly sideways down the crown of the road.  No warning, no control, no nuthin' but sideways movement until both right wheels bumped lightly against the curb.  If I'd wanted to be parking there it would have been worth bragging about.  Instead I was just grateful the only thing to hit was the curb.  I drove away very gingerly.
--
Jim Muller

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec  9 14:45:46 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 15:45:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  TR6 to the rescue
References: <ce7.413297ac.367021b1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003a01c95a48$369d1860$390211ac@Ranteer.local>

it rarely snows in dallas, but when it does we ALWAYS take out one of the 
front wheel drive cars (honda) and an lbc.  two years ago my son did a 
perfect 360 into an intersection (there was no traffic).  we laughed and 
squealed and kept going!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Chip19474 at aol.com>
To: <jmerone at rocketmail.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] TR6 to the rescue


> Joe,
>
> What a great story....do you all remember when we had to drive these  cars
> through ice and snow because a TR was all we owned!!??
>
> I have to admit I almost took my beautifully restored TR6 out for a spin 
> in
> a freak pre-Thanksgiving snow a couple of weeks ago before the salt 
> trucks
> got out.  I was planning to wash it anyway before its winter nap and  this
> little devilish voice in my head said "take it out - live the  moment"!
>
> Instead I reflected on how many white knuckle drives I took home from
> college in my TR3 in the snow with Firestone Town & Country studded snow 
> tires in
> the rear and a very heavy cast metal picnic table umbrella weight in  the 
> boot
> for traction...then I had another sip of Captain Morgans:)
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1976 TR6  CF57822U
>
>
> In a message dated 12/9/2008 12:45:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> jmerone at rocketmail.com writes:
>
> So what  do we end up driving
> to work in?  You got it - the  TR6.
>
> **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and
> favorite sites in one place.  Try it now.
> (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as sumton at sbcglobal.net 

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Tue Dec  9 15:29:48 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 17:29:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Was TR6 now TR3 to the rescue
In-Reply-To: <106527.66473.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <106527.66473.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W3190DF249EC11AD5AF4A1FA5FA0@phx.gbl>

> charger. So I fire up the Triumph (no problem there of course) and try to>
jump it from that. No-go.

Great story, Joe.

Don't know if this qualifies either:

Years ago I kept my TR3 at my brother's house in West Virginia. A friend of my
brother's, on a Christmas Break trip, flew his '49 Piper Clipper from
Massachusetts to Martinsburg Airport to visit my brother on his way south. A
freak cold spell fell that night. My brother could not start his BMW 2002 nor
Datsun pick-up. The original condition beat up ole TR3 started, though. They
drove the TR3 to the airport, and you guessed it, the Clipper would't start.
So they jumped the Clipper with the TR3 and the friend flew off on a southern
course.

John

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Dec  9 15:44:23 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 17:44:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
In-Reply-To: <cfe.469804e5.366f641d@cs.com>
References: <cfe.469804e5.366f641d@cs.com>
Message-ID: <200812091744.23570.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 09 December 2008 01:03:09 Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> FYI
>
>
>
Dave,

This reminds me of that Johnny Cash song about a Detroit worker taking a Caddy 
part "1 day at a time" or "1 part at a time" and after he retires putting the 
car together with a few friends.

Sounds like this Jag turned out a bit better than the Caddy.

But it "didnt cost me a dime".

Bob

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec  9 15:52:12 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Tue,  9 Dec 2008 17:52:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Was TR6 now TR3 to the rescue
Message-ID: <20081209175212.BTW53893@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

John Herrera wrote:
> A friend of my brother's, on a Christmas Break trip...

Well, if we're telling Christmas stories now, a few years ago we drove the GT6 out to a local farm selling Christmas trees, bought a tree, stuffed it in the back, and drove home.  It wasn't the biggest tree on the lot but it wasn't tiny either.  The folks working the lot were amused, then amazed that we got it in.

No snow flakes were harmed in either the execution or the telling of this story.
--
Jim Muller

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Dec  9 16:08:00 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 18:08:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
Message-ID: <35083FF2CC48488C9DF7508AB7DE8537@BOBSNEWPC>

Joe,
That's how I spent my 4 years in Winooski, VT......driving the Sprite and
then the AH3000....only difference was I looked forward to the snow and
sliding the car all over the place. Interesting how our perspectives change
with time. I bet Trevor had a blast too. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue Dec  9 17:16:49 2008
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 19:16:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
In-Reply-To: <200812091744.23570.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B176BE@mail.ex-centris.net>

Must have been a treat watching him squeeze that 500 cu. inch engine
block into his lunch box.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: December 9, 2008 5:44 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Ultimate restoration

On Tuesday 09 December 2008 01:03:09 Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> FYI
>
>
>
Dave,

This reminds me of that Johnny Cash song about a Detroit worker taking a
Caddy
part "1 day at a time" or "1 part at a time" and after he retires
putting the
car together with a few friends.

Sounds like this Jag turned out a bit better than the Caddy.

But it "didnt cost me a dime".

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Dec  9 17:37:36 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 19:37:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
In-Reply-To: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B176BE@mail.ex-centris.net>
References: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B176BE@mail.ex-centris.net>
Message-ID: <200812091937.36996.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 09 December 2008 19:16:49 Mark Hooper wrote:
> Must have been a treat watching him squeeze that 500 cu. inch engine
> block into his lunch box.
>
> Mark
>
Mark,

I believe there is a part of the song that states that some "parts" were taken 
from the factory in a friends van or something.

Not sure how the list views country music but Johnny Cash songs just have to 
be the best. 

They just dont make voices like that anymore. 

Although there is a commedian named Gary Mule Deer (http://garymuledeer.com/) 
that does sound like Johnny.

Bob

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Tue Dec  9 18:10:01 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 20:10:01 EST
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
Message-ID: <c7b.47fd8a78.367070e9@aol.com>

I still have the chains i used to put on my first TR6 back in the 70s  when i 
needed to drive it to work in snow and ice.
 
Jack Mc
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 12/9/2008 12:45:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jmerone at rocketmail.com writes:

Sunday  night my wife and I returned home after being away someplace warm  for
almost two weeks.  The family car had sat unused in the driveway  all that
time.  It lives outside because in the garage Trevor the TR6  has been resting
while waiting to go into storage. 

So, Monday  morning brings the coldest day
of the year so far here in Vermont, -2  degrees in the morning.  Added to
that was 2 inches of new snow still  falling on top of black-ice covered
roads.  The Saab won't start, and  it won't take a jump from my battery
charger.  So I fire up the  Triumph (no problem there of course) and try to
jump it from that.   No-go.  We need to get going as my wife HAS to be at
work early, and  there's no time to wait for AAA.  So what do we end up 
driving
to work  in?  You got it - the TR6.  All that new body work, paint  job,
and pampered LBC life be damned.  I actually said "It's time to  earn your 
keep
fella."   



**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec  9 18:25:50 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 20:25:50 EST
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
Message-ID: <d03.4a83e7c0.3670749e@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/9/2008 4:44:40 PM Central Standard Time, 
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: 
> This reminds me of that Johnny Cash song about a Detroit worker taking a 
> Caddy 
> part "1 day at a time" or "1 part at a time" and after he retires putting 
> the 
> car together with a few friends.
> 
Indeed.  It turns out my TR3 is this way. 

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec  9 18:27:24 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 20:27:24 EST
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
Message-ID: <cf2.48929f62.367074fc@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/9/2008 4:44:40 PM Central Standard Time, 
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: 
> This reminds me of that Johnny Cash song about a Detroit worker taking a 
> Caddy 
> part "1 day at a time" or "1 part at a time" and after he retires putting 
> the 
> car together with a few friends.
> 
Let me clarify, I meant it is a conglomeration of various year TR3 parts.  
Not the "didn't cost me a dime' part.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec  9 18:31:41 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 20:31:41 EST
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
Message-ID: <d21.426fd823.367075fd@cs.com>

Dunno, the way some Americans eat....

In a message dated 12/9/2008 6:15:52 PM Central Standard Time, 
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: 
> Must have been a treat watching him squeeze that 500 cu. inch engine
> block into his lunch box.
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Sent: December 9, 2008 5:44 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Ultimate restoration
> 
> On Tuesday 09 December 2008 01:03:09 Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> >FYI
> >
> >
> >
> Dave,
> 
> This reminds me of that Johnny Cash song about a Detroit worker taking a
> Caddy
> part "1 day at a time" or "1 part at a time" and after he retires
> putting the
> car together with a few friends.
> 
> Sounds like this Jag turned out a bit better than the Caddy.
> 
> But it "didnt cost me a dime".
> 
> Bob

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Dec  9 18:48:11 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 20:48:11 EST
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
Message-ID: <c26.4cb0e768.367079db@aol.com>

What's a dime?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Stay in touch with ALL of your friends: update your AIM, Bebo, 
Facebook, and MySpace pages with just one click. The NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000012)

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Dec  9 19:52:41 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 21:52:41 EST
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
Message-ID: <d17.3b3d0884.367088f9@aol.com>

OK a little off topic.  Living on Cape Cod and my wife and I are going  to a 
party at night going North on 495.  I have a SAAB Turbo (88 I think)  and this 
car has a freeze warning light.  Temp goes to freezing, light  comes on.  We 
are driving along about 65 and I decide to slow down.   When I slow down I 
discover we are on black ice.  I reduce my speed to  about 40 and take it slow 
and easy.  Some ice, no ice, as we go  along.  I turn around to head for home.  
Suddenly lights appears in my  rear view and this guy is moving.  Apparently, 
no freeze warning  light.  His headlights start to sweep back and forth as he 
loses control of  the car, and then they disappear.  The next time we see the  
lights they are shining in our faces as he passes us going backwards.   I 
don't know as I will ever forget the looks on their faces as they came into my  
headlights and I could see into their windshield.
A couple of wild swings and everyone came to a stop unharmed.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Stay in touch with ALL of your friends: update your AIM, Bebo, 
Facebook, and MySpace pages with just one click. The NEW AOL.com. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000012)

From mdporter at dfn.com  Tue Dec  9 20:13:44 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2008 20:13:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
In-Reply-To: <200812091937.36996.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B176BE@mail.ex-centris.net>
	<200812091937.36996.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <493F33E8.7020700@dfn.com>

Bob wrote:
> On Tuesday 09 December 2008 19:16:49 Mark Hooper wrote:
>   
>> Must have been a treat watching him squeeze that 500 cu. inch engine
>> block into his lunch box.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>     
> Mark,
>
> I believe there is a part of the song that states that some "parts" were taken 
> from the factory in a friends van or something.
>
>   

Odd things happen in factories.  There are a number of ways to abscond 
with things. Someone for whom I once worked had been a temporary floor 
worker at the beginning of WWII in a Curtiss-Wright aircraft engine 
factory.  He told a story about how the shipper, the QA guy and the 
company's scrap supplier had gotten together to declare good parts to be 
scrap.  The QA guy would reject them, the shipper would move the parts 
to the scrap bin on a particular day, and the scrap dealer would 
promptly pick them up that evening, and out the front gate they would 
go, and then onto the black market.  Took the company almost a year to 
figure out what was going on. 


Other strange things happen in factories when the employees are 
disgruntled.  I knew someone who, in the late `70s, was part of a 
Cadillac factory team assigned to handle problems in the Detroit area 
that the dealers couldn't solve.  One elderly woman had brought a Caddy 
in repeatedly for an odd sound on braking.  They tested the car, and, 
sure enough, the car would come to a stop and there was a sound like a 
cowbell.  They pulled all the door panels and threshold strips, looking 
for large nuts or bolts (a fairly typical trick in car factories) and 
found none.  Tore out the seats, and again, found nothing. They put four 
guys in the car and tried it again, hoping that one or another would at 
least be able to figure out from what direction the sound was 
emanating.  One guy swore it was right near his ear.  So, they tore out 
the headliner, and there, brazed to the left c-pillar, was a homemade 
brass plaque equipped with a bell clapper and a couple of tabs for it to 
bang against.


They had no problems identifying the culprits--they had etched their 
names into the plaque with a mechanical etching tool.



Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  9 20:26:24 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 19:26:24 -0800
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
In-Reply-To: <493F33E8.7020700@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <20081210032624.IXJK29639.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> They had no problems identifying the culprits--they had 
> etched their names into the plaque with a mechanical etching tool.

Except, of course, that if you had wanted to get someone else in trouble ...

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  9 21:24:19 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 20:24:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] FS : TR6 project in SoCA
Message-ID: <20081210042419.KDPU29639.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

  Anyone looking for a TR6 project ?

I know nothing about this car, but it looks like a great deal.
 
 http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/951524516.html

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of 1973 Triumph TR6 Complete and Running.url]

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec  9 22:45:38 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 00:45:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
In-Reply-To: <d17.3b3d0884.367088f9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <493F1132.30059.1A6CCF42@localhost>

On 9 Dec 2008 at 21:52, DLylis at aol.com wrote:
> Suddenly lights appears in my  rear view and this guy is moving.
> ... His headlights start to sweep back and forth as he loses
> control of  the car, and then they disappear. 

Of course it is presumptious to assume anything but I'd lay money on 
it being a 4-wheel drive.  Those guys think they can go faster but it 
never dawns on them that they still have the same brakes everybody 
else does.  That 4-wheel drive just means it is easier to get into 
trouble!


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Dec 10 04:47:06 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 11:47:06 -0000
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
References: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B176BE@mail.ex-centris.net><200812091937.36996.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<493F33E8.7020700@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <E3CF92B35E0B437AB8CB5E9433401604@Bevan>

Michael Porter wrote:
> Odd things happen in factories.

The late Robin Penrice, known to many from his column in Triumph World, also caused problems for the 
security guys at the factory in Coventry in the early 1960's.
A mutual friend told me that one day Robin said he had need of a blacksmith's anvil at home. Quite 
what he or his Dad needed of an anvil I have no idea and maybe the whole thing was a dare? Anyway, 
come the day, Robin was 'helped' out of No. 1 Gate at Canley bent double, wearing a long and flowing 
coat and with both arms around the shoulders of accomplices. It must have looked strange to see 
three people tottering out amid the frenzy of cars and bicycles. Robin was approached by a security 
man. "Wassa matter? You drunk or ill?"
"Crippling gut ache," Robin replied. "Can't walk, can't stand upright, going to the hospital."
They let him through.
Having crossed the boundary between company and public land, Robin straightened up, and removed the 
rope from around his neck from which the anvil was slung.
"We did it!" they shouted and out of the crowd, another man stepped and handed Robin a GBP1.00 note. 
"Well done, lad - ah didn't think tha would do it."
Meanwhile Security guy surges through the crowd.
"I know all of you and I'll have that pound for mis-appropriation of company property!" And pointing 
to Robin he said, "and I'll have another pound off you too, for intentionally misleading me as to 
your exact medical condition." Then turning to each of the accomplices, "and I'll have a pound off 
each of you lot for aiding and abetting! What's more, I'm off duty in half an hour and if you all 
want to buy me a pint in the Social Club bar, maybe after four pints, I'll 'forget' what really 
happened and this incident won't find its way into the Thefts Book."
History has not recorded (or maybe my mind has forgotten?) what happened to the anvil sitting on the 
pavement outside No. 1 Gate.

Jonmac 

From coefront at shaw.ca  Wed Dec 10 05:03:29 2008
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:03:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
Message-ID: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDOEPNDEAA.coefront@shaw.ca>

Well seeing as it's Christmas (and we now have tons of snow here in Calgary,
Alberta), I'll add another TR story following my recent TR6 epistle. A story
that occurred long before {the TR6} ownership when my then employer of a
week, within a week transferred me from Vancouver across the straight to
Victoria. B.C. And I found a fairly decent cheap interim abode to live in
for a month whilst waiting for my wife to join me before she could leave her
job. I, using that time to look around for a better place for us. Which of
course [Murphy's law] materialised only shortly after she joined me in
Victoria! So we then had to move our stuff: and we only had our faithful
1961 TR3 {it, a car we really couldn't afford as we had no, and I mean no,
money, and she was heavily pregnant; but we loved the TR3}. And yes, you
guessed it, apart from a few awkward burdensome things friends moved in an
old small rusty pick up on the weekend, we moved with the TR3 during the
week. Which is surprisingly good at moving stuff with the top lowered! But
what people must have thought seeing things raised and dangling within this
vehicle can only be imagined! Certainly I got a lot of waves and honks from
cars (all in fun I think!), but we saved a heck of a lot of moving costs via
a number of TR trips - and gas was "really, really" cheap back then! Sadly
though for the TR {but joyfully for the baby} we upon baby Jennifer's
arrival had to sell the TR3 until we gained better income; and five years
later the arrival of the TR6.  Mike.  TR8. confront at shaw.ca

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed Dec 10 09:11:06 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 08:11:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 lifting rear
Message-ID: <013d01c95ae1$e87d7f90$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hello list,
I have seen pictures of sixes being lifted by a single floor jack under the rear end.
Is this an accepted practice? Of course I would chock front wheels and use jack stands once it is up.
Thanks.
Regards,
Bob



E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.11310
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Dec 10 06:36:05 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 08:36:05 EST
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
Message-ID: <d5e.3d6a0f94.36711fc5@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/9/2008 7:48:11 PM Central Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com 
writes: 
> What's a dime?
>   
>  David Lylis
> 
> 
It's that thing my car stops on.

Dave

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Dec 10 08:22:45 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 15:22:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
Message-ID: <121020081522.29347.493FDEC50006FAA1000072A322155612649D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

Calgary, eh?  Is one of these TR6 cars yours?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sherlock77/2917100372/in/set-72157607894849731/

Do you know the photogapher?

I hope to meet you when the TransAmeriCan tour comes through in September 2009.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From blanoway at shaw.ca  Wed Dec 10 08:54:03 2008
From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 09:54:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] ...and other LBC wintertime stories
Message-ID: <7B8F726E8B954F2F9C38B85799A94C8D@Lanowaylaptop>

I used to drive all my LBCs in our Winnipeg (aka Winterpeg) winters
before I discovered front wheel drive and now AWD.  My favourite story
involves my AH 3000 Mk 1 and a freezing, slushy night.  After parking the
Healey on the street for several hours in evening, I got into the car,
started it, put it into gear, released the clutch and the car made a lot of
noise but didnt move!  Immediate panic set in. What could it be? The rear
axle?  The prop shaft?  Something more sinister and expensive?  After
several more attempts to move, I opened the door to try understand why I
wasnt going anywhere to discover that my Big Healey (or more properly, the
Healeys low exhaust) had frozen to the road!  Thankfully, a few more
minutes of exhaust heat extricated me from this predicament.

Like Jim below, I also drove a Fiat 124 spider in our winters.  It had a
wonderful heater and I could always see through the windows and drive with
my gloves off; something I could never do in any of my LBCs.

After experiencing the wonders of AWD and heated seats, I couldnt imagine
driving my TR6 in the snow storm were getting today.

Brian Lanoway
Winterpeg, Manitoba, Canada
minus 20C last night and 4 inches of snow today


		On Dec 9, Jim Muller wrote:

		One of my minor *unintentional* winter-in-a-sports-car
episodes was this. Driving my Fiat 124 Spider on a cold, damp but non-snowy
night I coasted sedately to a stop at a stoplight.  Calmly the car's speed
hit zero, and within milliseconds calmly the car began sliding directly
sideways down the crown of the road.  No warning, no control, no nuthin' but
sideways movement until both right wheels bumped lightly against the curb.
If I'd wanted to be parking there it would have been worth bragging about.
Instead I was just grateful the only thing to hit was the curb.  I drove
away very gingerly.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 10 08:56:05 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 07:56:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
In-Reply-To: <d5e.3d6a0f94.36711fc5@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20081210155605.PIQN29496.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> > What's a dime?

> It's that thing my car stops on.

Must be really tough, having to find one of those every time you need to
stop the car ...

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 10 09:17:30 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 16:17:30 +0000
Subject: [TR] ...and other wintertime stories
In-Reply-To: <20081209164507.BTW36638@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20081209164507.BTW36638@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W21AF45F2D91380C95F6ADEE5FB0@phx.gbl>

My winter time story comes from the sixties.  I was in the mountains for a
weekend retreat with my car club.  As the club left the mountains after the
weekend it was snowing and the roads were unpredictable.  We all caravaned
down the mountain.  The leader of the string of cars passed a slower car.
Everyone followed in suit.  I went around the car as we came out of a curve.
The TR4A behind pulled out to pass before the next curve.  As the TR4A pulled
along side of the slow car another car emerged from the upcoming curve in the
oncoming lane.  I prepared myself to witness a head on collision.  The TR4A
made the pass with the narrowest of margins believable.  Later the TR4A driver
told me he wouldn't have made if he hadn't  hit the overdrive switch at the
last moment.

Best regards,
Tom



> From: jimmuller at rcn.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 16:45:07 -0500
> Subject: [TR] ...and other wintertime stories
>
> N197TR4 wrote:
> > I have another snowtime story and parking...
>
> Interesting story.  The Finest of Charles City must have been in a good
mood!
>
> One of my minor *unintentional* winter-in-a-sports-car episodes was this.
Driving my Fiat 124 Spider on a cold, damp but non-snowy night I coasted
sedately to a stop at a stoplight.  Calmly the car's speed hit zero, and
within milliseconds calmly the car began sliding directly sideways down the
crown of the road.  No warning, no control, no nuthin' but sideways movement
until both right wheels bumped lightly against the curb.  If I'd wanted to be
parking there it would have been worth bragging about.  Instead I was just
grateful the only thing to hit was the curb.  I drove away very gingerly.
> --
> Jim Muller
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anywhere
_122008

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Dec 10 09:21:40 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 11:21:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 lifting rear
In-Reply-To: <013d01c95ae1$e87d7f90$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <013d01c95ae1$e87d7f90$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <37406F6C1B4543BAB220ED1601927CC5@BOBSNEWPC>

Bob.....you'll get mixed opinions about jacking the car by the diff. Some
say not a problem while others will say that the diff mounts get enough
stress so why add to the problem. I jack from the sides.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 11:11 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 lifting rear

Hello list,
I have seen pictures of sixes being lifted by a single floor jack under the
rear end.
Is this an accepted practice? Of course I would chock front wheels and use
jack stands once it is up.
Thanks.
Regards,
Bob



E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version:
5.11310 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Wed Dec 10 10:18:42 2008
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 12:18:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 lifting rear
In-Reply-To: <37406F6C1B4543BAB220ED1601927CC5@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <A90F96D3D240462ABC3860C96CFCA761@Desktop>

That's the only way I can raise the car up

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 11:22 AM
To: 'Bob'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 lifting rear

Bob.....you'll get mixed opinions about jacking the car by the diff. Some
say not a problem while others will say that the diff mounts get enough
stress so why add to the problem. I jack from the sides.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 11:11 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 lifting rear

Hello list,
I have seen pictures of sixes being lifted by a single floor jack under the
rear end.
Is this an accepted practice? Of course I would chock front wheels and use
jack stands once it is up.
Thanks.
Regards,
Bob



E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version:
5.11310 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From wbmcleod at gmail.com  Wed Dec 10 10:25:44 2008
From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 10:25:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Lotus, Abarth and Triumph wheels on ebay
References: <BAY101-W44CFA6129EB60E79E719E4C9FB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E24033DD-BE48-48D9-81AA-B3E06462CE59@gmail.com>

I received this message from a good friend who works on Italian cars,  
who bought these wheels by mistake, thinking that they would fit a  
Fiat.  The message is self-explanatory and may provide a bargain for  
owners of some of the more exotic cars!  NFI, just a friend; I have  
not researched bolt patterns on the cars mentioned.
TIA
Bill
Slightly Classics
Tucson

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Val Danilov <valdanilov at msn.com>
> Date: December 10, 2008 9:06:30 AM GMT-07:00
> To: Bill McLeod <wbmcleod at gmail.com>
> Subject: Lotus and Triumph wheels
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> take a look here:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190272738845
>
> I bought these wheels, as they normally come with a Fiat 4x98 bolt  
> pattern, and are rare as hell, and very expensive (up to $1000 for a  
> set!).
> Probably the lightest magnesium wheel you can ever get for your race  
> car!
>
> Anyway, I realized my mistake, and asked the seller to relist them  
> for me, as I cannot really use them.
>
> I doubt any of the people on your forums ever search for  
> "Cromodora", so they'll appreciate it too!
> These are the famous Carlo Abarth wheels from the early/mid  
> seventies, and were used on Abarth vehicles.
> I guess a limited number was made for Lotus, Triumph bolt pattern as  
> well, but this is the first time I came across a bolt pattern  
> different from Fiat.
>
> If they do not sell, I'm out of $400, as I've already paid for them.  
> Thanks,
>
> Val

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Wed Dec 10 10:49:25 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 09:49:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue - the end
Message-ID: <388168.78110.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The story ends...

Since our wild winter ride Monday morning the TR6 has sat
back in the garage, but was covered with a fine layer of salt and grime.  I've
been waiting for a slight break in the weather to get it outside and give it a
bath, all the time feeling sorry for my paint, my canvas top, my chrome, and
my undercarriage - although that part of the car has that very special Triumph
lubrication liberally applied over most of it.  

This morning I awoke to
temps in the 40s, but dropping fast due to a cold front quickly on the way. 
Off to work?  Nah - I've got to wash the car - and now.  So there I am out in
the driveway at 7:30 a.m. on a December morning in Vermont, the sun just
coming up,  washing a British sports car.  And not just a little wash, but a
thorough one.  Yes neighbors, I am a little weird - "good morning and have a
nice day."  And what happens then?   You guessed it - a very heavy snow squall
hits.  Keep washing - faster.  But now the rinse water is freezing up on the
car.  Keep drying - faster.  More strange looks from the neighbors, but a
clean and happy car.      

Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CF18928 5-speed

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Dec 10 11:59:56 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 13:59:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
Message-ID: <20081210135956.BTY83476@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

> > > What's a dime?

> > It's that thing my car stops on.

> Must be really tough, having to find one of those every
> time you need to stop the car ...

There's more room for error on two nickels, but first you have to find two of 'em.  Not so easy.

Jim Muller

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Dec 10 12:32:56 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 14:32:56 EST
Subject: [TR] Ultimate restoration
Message-ID: <c17.4f798d12.36717368@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/10/2008 9:56:11 AM Central Standard Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> >>What's a dime?
> 
> >It's that thing my car stops on.
> 
> Must be really tough, having to find one of those every time you need to
> stop the car ...
> 
But if I time the traffic lights right I don't have to stop so often.

Besides, I get 10 stops for a dollar.

Dave

From wbmcleod at gmail.com  Wed Dec 10 15:03:29 2008
From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 15:03:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Cromodora wheels on ebay Just so everyone knows what's
 going on
References: <20081210.134150.3244.0.mrkerb@juno.com>
Message-ID: <C324EACA-399D-4567-AB51-459CA0D7C5F0@gmail.com>

With thanks to Michael!

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Michael Duffey <mrkerb at juno.com>
> Date: December 10, 2008 2:41:50 PM GMT-07:00
> To: wbmcleod at gmail.com
> Subject: Cromodora wheels on ebay
>
> Dear Bill
> I sent an email to the guy who is selling these wheels but in case he
> doesn't post it with the auction, I figured that I would pass the  
> info on
> to you.
> I worked for the importer of Cromodora (Intermag, later BBS of  
> America)
> for five years. We made a batch of wheels that were basically Fiat 124
> Rally wheels with a 3 3/4 BC and machined on the face to lighten them.
> They were intended to be Formula Ford wheels and are not suitable  
> for a
> car that weighs over 1000#.
> So hopefully a guy with a Spitfire or GT6 doesn't try to run them.
> Regards
> Michael Duffey
>
>> I received this message from a good friend who works on Italian cars,
>> who bought these wheels by mistake, thinking that they would fit a
>> Fiat.  The message is self-explanatory and may provide a bargain for
>> owners of some of the more exotic cars!  NFI, just a friend; I have
>> not researched bolt patterns on the cars mentioned.
>> TIA
>> Bill
>> Slightly Classics
>> Tucson
>>
>> Begin forwarded message:
>>
>>> From: Val Danilov <valdanilov at msn.com>
>>> Date: December 10, 2008 9:06:30 AM GMT-07:00
>>> To: Bill McLeod <wbmcleod at gmail.com>
>>> Subject: Lotus and Triumph wheels
>>>
>>> Hi Bill,
>>>
>>> take a look here:
>>>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=19027273884
> 5
>>>
>>> I bought these wheels, as they normally come with a Fiat 4x98 bolt
>>> pattern, and are rare as hell, and very expensive (up to $1000 for a
>>> set!).
>>> Probably the lightest magnesium wheel you can ever get for your race
>>> car!
>>>
>>> Anyway, I realized my mistake, and asked the seller to relist them
>>> for me, as I cannot really use them.
>>>
>>> I doubt any of the people on your forums ever search for
>>> "Cromodora", so they'll appreciate it too!
>>> These are the famous Carlo Abarth wheels from the early/mid
>>> seventies, and were used on Abarth vehicles.
>>> I guess a limited number was made for Lotus, Triumph bolt pattern as
>>> well, but this is the first time I came across a bolt pattern
>>> different from Fiat.
>>>
>>> If they do not sell, I'm out of $400, as I've already paid for them.
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Val
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as zero260 at comcast.net
>>
>> Vintage-race at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Save $15 on Flowers and Gifts from FTD!
> Shop now at http://offers.juno.com/TGL1141/?u=http://www.ftd.com/17007

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Dec 10 19:45:45 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 19:45:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 to the rescue
References: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDOEPNDEAA.coefront@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <21CD34264C2940A1998FA6B8E8AC3EC2@rolofson>

When I had my first TR6 in the early 70's I drove it to work winter and summer
here in Colorado and I was working for the railroad so it went down some
marginal roads to get to work sites.  On the weekends we'd go skiing in the
TR6 with the skis loaded through the zip down window between the seats and
into the passenger footwell...good thing my wife was a petite woman.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Dec 11 08:07:54 2008
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2008 15:07:54 GMT
Subject: [TR] Heavy duty Tig welderin in SoCal
Message-ID: <200812110807416.SM06884@[166.70.182.40]>

Ran across this ad on Craigs list.B  I have the HDA-200 welder which is the
smaller brother to this welder.B  Great welders.B  They are HEAVY but well
worth the price.
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bfs/939977723.html
Bring your engine hoist when you pick it up.
NFI
Brad

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Dec 11 09:46:35 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2008 16:46:35 -0000
Subject: [TR] More news on the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009
Message-ID: <FBAE96E3A4554BCCAEF35FFFB4AC7EB0@Bevan>

As some of you already know, the Stag that I'm driving next year is now known as 'uncle jack' in 
memory of Jack Drews, who died earlier this year while racing his TR4.
Reconstruction work on the car itself continues apace under 'Stagmeister' Joe Pawlak and his team at 
ISOA and Tim Buja has posted the latest pix of work undertaken this last weekend. You can see those 
pix and the dedication of the Stag in Jack's memory on the event website which is 
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

Cheers, all
John Macartney

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Thu Dec 11 16:28:35 2008
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2008 18:28:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Cromodora wheels on ebay Just so everyone knows what's
 going on
Message-ID: <E05A4C7AF5AE47FF93C05AA5F4BE45DE@artvacc377678a>

 Hi All,
     I was wondering  where the Wheels are presently located?  I noticed
 they were in AZ at one time. I could use the seller's contact info too.
 I have a Hawke DL12 Formula Ford and may be interested in them if shipping
 isn't too far away.
 Cheers,
 Wayne Lee
 Douglas, MA
 64 TR4 (project)
 75 TR6 (daily driver)
 
 
>> With thanks to Michael!
>>
>> Begin forwarded message:
>>
>>> From: Michael Duffey <mrkerb at juno.com>
>>> Date: December 10, 2008 2:41:50 PM GMT-07:00
>>> To: wbmcleod at gmail.com
>>> Subject: Cromodora wheels on ebay
>>>
>>> Dear Bill
>>> I sent an email to the guy who is selling these wheels but in case he
>>> doesn't post it with the auction, I figured that I would pass the
>>> info on
>>> to you.
>>> I worked for the importer of Cromodora (Intermag, later BBS of
>>> America)
>>> for five years. We made a batch of wheels that were basically Fiat 124
>>> Rally wheels with a 3 3/4 BC and machined on the face to lighten them.
>>> They were intended to be Formula Ford wheels and are not suitable
>>> for a
>>> car that weighs over 1000#.
>>> So hopefully a guy with a Spitfire or GT6 doesn't try to run them.
>>> Regards
>>> Michael Duffey
>>>
>>>> I received this message from a good friend who works on Italian cars,
>>>> who bought these wheels by mistake, thinking that they would fit a
>>>> Fiat.  The message is self-explanatory and may provide a bargain for
>>>> owners of some of the more exotic cars!  NFI, just a friend; I have
>>>> not researched bolt patterns on the cars mentioned.
>>>> TIA
>>>> Bill
>>>> Slightly Classics
>>>> Tucson

From wbmcleod at gmail.com  Thu Dec 11 17:05:04 2008
From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod)
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2008 17:05:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Cromodora wheels on ebay Just so everyone knows what's
 going on
In-Reply-To: <E05A4C7AF5AE47FF93C05AA5F4BE45DE@artvacc377678a>
References: <E05A4C7AF5AE47FF93C05AA5F4BE45DE@artvacc377678a>
Message-ID: <86540952-93CB-40A8-AEC6-A923C61910CB@gmail.com>

They are in Redding, Calif.  Shipping should not be expensive,  
possibly as much as $60-$70 to MA.  Greyhound works a treat!
Bill


On Dec 11, 2008, at 4:28 PM, Wayne Lee wrote:

> Hi All,
>    I was wondering  where the Wheels are presently located?  I noticed
> they were in AZ at one time. I could use the seller's contact info  
> too.
> I have a Hawke DL12 Formula Ford and may be interested in them if  
> shipping
> isn't too far away.
> Cheers,
> Wayne Lee
> Douglas, MA
> 64 TR4 (project)
> 75 TR6 (daily driver)
>>> With thanks to Michael!
>>>
>>> Begin forwarded message:
>>>
>>>> From: Michael Duffey <mrkerb at juno.com>
>>>> Date: December 10, 2008 2:41:50 PM GMT-07:00
>>>> To: wbmcleod at gmail.com
>>>> Subject: Cromodora wheels on ebay
>>>>
>>>> Dear Bill
>>>> I sent an email to the guy who is selling these wheels but in  
>>>> case he
>>>> doesn't post it with the auction, I figured that I would pass the
>>>> info on
>>>> to you.
>>>> I worked for the importer of Cromodora (Intermag, later BBS of
>>>> America)
>>>> for five years. We made a batch of wheels that were basically  
>>>> Fiat 124
>>>> Rally wheels with a 3 3/4 BC and machined on the face to lighten  
>>>> them.
>>>> They were intended to be Formula Ford wheels and are not suitable
>>>> for a
>>>> car that weighs over 1000#.
>>>> So hopefully a guy with a Spitfire or GT6 doesn't try to run them.
>>>> Regards
>>>> Michael Duffey
>>>>
>>>>> I received this message from a good friend who works on Italian  
>>>>> cars,
>>>>> who bought these wheels by mistake, thinking that they would fit a
>>>>> Fiat.  The message is self-explanatory and may provide a bargain  
>>>>> for
>>>>> owners of some of the more exotic cars!  NFI, just a friend; I  
>>>>> have
>>>>> not researched bolt patterns on the cars mentioned.
>>>>> TIA
>>>>> Bill
>>>>> Slightly Classics
>>>>> Tucson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wbmcleod at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Fri Dec 12 17:19:46 2008
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy)
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2008 16:19:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] Where on the rad. to place a temp. sensor?
Message-ID: <abc1aef30812121619x61c9b794pfb249a61cf34aa95@mail.gmail.com>

I have a kenlowe fan to keep my Stag cool. It originally came with a
thermocouple (thingy) you put in the water line.  I'm retiring that in favor
of a probe you place in the rad. fins.
Where would be the best place to put one of these things?
1) close to where water flows out of the rad. into the engine.
2) close the where water flows into the rad. from the engine.

On the Stag there is a pipe on the top left and a pipe on the bottom right
of the rad.. (looking from engine side). Is there a convention of which
way water flows out of a rad?  Does it flow into the rad from the bottom and
out the top , or in at the top and out the bottom?
If so can someone please tell me?

Sujit

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 12 17:37:41 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2008 16:37:41 -0800
Subject: [TR] Where on the rad. to place a temp. sensor?
In-Reply-To: <abc1aef30812121619x61c9b794pfb249a61cf34aa95@mail.gmail.com>
References: <abc1aef30812121619x61c9b794pfb249a61cf34aa95@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <021c01c95cbb$02b536c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Where would be the best place to put one of these things?
> 1) close to where water flows out of the rad. into the engine.
> 2) close the where water flows into the rad. from the engine.

Depends on your definition of "best", IMO.  Near the outlet from the
radiator is the usual choice, so the fan only runs when the airflow through
the radiator is otherwise insufficient to cool the water.  But some people
like to have the fan come on sooner when things start to warm up, and so put
it near the inlet.

> On the Stag there is a pipe on the top left and a pipe on the bottom right
> of the rad.. (looking from engine side). Is there a convention of which
> way water flows out of a rad?

The convention is hot water in at the top, cool water out at the bottom.  I
don't know if all cars follow this, but I'm pretty sure the Stag does.

Randall

From tr3a at comcast.net  Fri Dec 12 22:39:10 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 00:39:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <49434A7E.5030900@comcast.net>

   Sorry to clutter...first post in about 5 or 6 years!!
   TS53990L(O)

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Dec 12 23:08:32 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2008 23:08:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <49434A7E.5030900@comcast.net>
References: <49434A7E.5030900@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <129514B44D8E43E39E578F7A27BE6EE0@sniffer>

Welcome back!

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:39 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Test

   Sorry to clutter...first post in about 5 or 6 years!!
   TS53990L(O)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1845 - Release Date: 12/12/2008
9:02 AM

From tr3a at comcast.net  Fri Dec 12 23:21:07 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 01:21:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <129514B44D8E43E39E578F7A27BE6EE0@sniffer>
References: <49434A7E.5030900@comcast.net>
	<129514B44D8E43E39E578F7A27BE6EE0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <49435453.1080500@comcast.net>

   Thanks,  Bill! I just took a quick look in the archives and saw that a
   lot  of  old  friends  still  hang out here! Fred Thomas, Brad Kahler,
   LeviLevi  :),  Randall,  Bob  Danielson  and of course, my M-F tractor
   "partner"...Dave Massey! And more, I'm sure. Cool!
   Hi, guys! Hey, Brad...how many ya got now? 75? 100? :)
   Fergie
   1959 TR3A
   TS53990L(O)
   wbeech wrote:

Welcome back!

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:39 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Test

   Sorry to clutter...first post in about 5 or 6 years!!
   TS53990L(O)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1845 - Release Date: 12/12/2008
9:02 AM

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Sat Dec 13 07:36:48 2008
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:36:48 GMT
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <200812130736431.SM04756@[166.70.182.40]>

Howdy Michael,
We're down to about 6 Triumphs and a few non Triumphs (Amphicar, 51 Dodge pu,
Isetta) so life is simplier now.....yeah right!B 
Oh yeah, one other thing we're in the final stages of moving from Arkansas to
Kentucky.
Brad
-----Original Message-----
From: "Michael" <tr3a at comcast.net>
Sent 12/12/2008 11:21:07 PM
To: "wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Test   Thanks,  Bill! I just took a quick look in the
archives and saw that a
lot  of  old  friends  still  hang out here! Fred Thomas, Brad Kahler,
LeviLevi  :),  Randall,  Bob  Danielson  and of course, my M-F tractor
"partner"...Dave Massey! And more, I'm sure. Cool!
Hi, guys! Hey, Brad...how many ya got now? 75? 100? :)
Fergie
1959 TR3A
TS53990L(O)
wbeech wrote:
Welcome back!
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:39 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Test
Sorry to clutter...first post in about 5 or 6 years!!
TS53990L(O)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net
http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1845 - Release Date: 12/12/2008
9:02 AM
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
You are subscribed as brad.kahler at 141.com
http://www.team.net/archive

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Dec 13 08:52:50 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 10:52:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
Message-ID: <013001c95d3a$da9bcde0$6401a8c0@STATION6>

A few quick questions on the facet fuel pumps. I am putting one on my 59 TR3A
since I have now gone through my second mechanical one.
  1.. Behind the mechanical (tank to pump) or in front (pump to carbs)? I
prefer behind because of the rubber hose availability, any pros and cons?
  2.. Wiring connections?
  3.. Any need to modify the mechanical or will the facet push/pull through
it.
  4.. Does it require a pressure regulator?
Thanks
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6

From tr3a at comcast.net  Sat Dec 13 08:53:17 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 10:53:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <200812130736431.SM04756@[166.70.182.40]>
References: <200812130736431.SM04756@[166.70.182.40]>
Message-ID: <4943DA6D.9070703@comcast.net>

   Don't you love it when someone quantifies his TR collection as "about"
   6!  :)  Have  you  finished the Mayflower? Always thought those things
   looked like a mini-Rolls...except without brakes! How about IsettaSuz?
   Brad Kahler wrote:

     Howdy Michael,
     We're down to about 6 Triumphs and a few non Triumphs (Amphicar, 51
     Dodge pu, Isetta) so life is simplier now.....yeah right!
     Oh  yeah,  one other thing we're in the final stages of moving from
     Arkansas to Kentucky.
     Brad
     -----Original Message-----
     From: "Michael" <tr3a at comcast.net>
     Sent 12/12/2008 11:21:07 PM
     To: "wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net>
     Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
     Subject: Re: [TR] Test
   Thanks,  Bill! I just took a quick look in the archives and saw that a
lot  of  old  friends  still  hang out here! Fred Thomas, Brad Kahler,
LeviLevi  :),  Randall,  Bob  Danielson  and of course, my M-F tractor
"partner"...Dave Massey! And more, I'm sure. Cool!
Hi, guys! Hey, Brad...how many ya got now? 75? 100? :)
Fergie
1959 TR3A
TS53990L(O)
wbeech wrote:
Welcome back!
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:39 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Test
Sorry to clutter...first post in about 5 or 6 years!!
TS53990L(O)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net
http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1845 - Release Date: 12/12/2008
9:02 AM
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
You are subscribed as brad.kahler at 141.com
http://www.team.net/archive

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Sat Dec 13 09:08:49 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 11:08:49 EST
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <be3.32597c0f.36753811@aol.com>

Brad:
As an ex Bluegrass resident I must ask where in Kentucky are you going.  We 
moved to the frozen wastelands of Indiana 20 years ago and we still miss the 
hills of KY.  Be sure to get your passsport validated since KY will not let you 
back in if you leave!

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana 


**************
One site keeps you connected to all your email: 
AOL Mail, Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. The NEW 
AOL.com.(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&amp;icid=aolcom40vanity&amp;ncid=emlcntaolcom00000019)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 13 09:23:56 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 08:23:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
In-Reply-To: <013001c95d3a$da9bcde0$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <20081213162356.KMRP18921.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

>   1.. Behind the mechanical (tank to pump) or in front (pump 
> to carbs)? I prefer behind because of the rubber hose 
> availability, any pros and cons?

My personal preference would be to bypass it entirely ... the usual way for
the mechanical pump to fail is for the diaphragm to start leaking; which
will continue to leak even with the added pump.

>   2.. Wiring connections?

It would be safer to have some means of automatically disabling the pump in
case of a serious accident.  For example, Triumph Stags (and many other
cars) have an inertial cutout that disables the pump in case of hard impact;
while some VW Rabbits (and again other cars) have a time delay relay that
disables the pump when the engine is not turning.

I would also want to have a separate fuse in the line to the pump, which
could be as simple as an in-line fuse to the hot terminal of the ignition
coil (if you are mounting the pump in that area).

>   3.. Any need to modify the mechanical or will the facet 
> push/pull through it.

If it is working correctly, the Facet should push or pull through it.  But
then, if it were working correctly, you wouldn't need the Facet.

>   4.. Does it require a pressure regulator?

There are different models; the lowest pressure model does not require a
regulator.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php

While I like the little rectangular Facets (they also make other different
styles), they are noisy little buggers.  I would suggest doing at least some
form of 'soft' mounting, so the sheet metal doesn't amplify the pump noise.
On the Stag, I bent a simple bracket from sheet metal, and used rubber
grommets for sound isolation.  I can still hear the pump at idle, but it's
not objectionable to me.

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Dec 13 09:32:04 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 11:32:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
In-Reply-To: <013001c95d3a$da9bcde0$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <013001c95d3a$da9bcde0$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <200812131132.05202.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 13 December 2008 10:52:50 Alex wrote:
> A few quick questions on the facet fuel pumps. I am putting one on my 59
> TR3A since I have now gone through my second mechanical one.
>   1.. Behind the mechanical (tank to pump) or in front (pump to carbs)? I
> prefer behind because of the rubber hose availability, any pros and cons?
>   2.. Wiring connections?
>   3.. Any need to modify the mechanical or will the facet push/pull through
> it.
>   4.. Does it require a pressure regulator?
> Thanks
> Alex Manzo
> 59 TR3A
> 72 TR6
Alex,

I have the Facet pump on both my 3 and 4.

I mounted the pump just under the tank with a filter between the tank and the 
pump.

I replaced the mech. fuel pump with a blank. 

Dont know if a regulator is needed but I put one mounted on the existing studs 
of the fuel pump (on top of the blanking plate.

I have another fuel filter just before the regulator.

For wiring, I made a 2 wire harness 1 for power and 1 for ground and connected 
the power to the White wire that goes to the coil and ran the harness to the 
rear pump along the drivers floor similar to the regular harness for the 
lights on the passenger side.

I also have a fuse between the coil connection and the harness.

I decided to hook the power to the coil so when I turn on the ignition so does 
the fuel pump.

1 season on the 3 and 2 on the 4 with no problems.

On my current 6 project I plan to use the same method.

Bob

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sat Dec 13 09:37:39 2008
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 10:37:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
In-Reply-To: <200812131132.05202.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <013001c95d3a$da9bcde0$6401a8c0@STATION6>
	<200812131132.05202.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W304806E962CC7718D25C36E1F60@phx.gbl>

Do you have a automatic cut off?
I thought you needed one encase of an accident.Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves!

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat Dec 13 09:56:10 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 09:56:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Test
References: <49434A7E.5030900@comcast.net><129514B44D8E43E39E578F7A27BE6EE0@sniffer>
	<49435453.1080500@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B83BCC344A9F42FAA7916892B1EFE080@rolofson>

Michael,

Welcome back.  Always good to see old friends on the list.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Michael
  To: wbeech
  Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Test


     Thanks,  Bill! I just took a quick look in the archives and saw that a
     lot  of  old  friends  still  hang out here! Fred Thomas, Brad Kahler,
     LeviLevi  :),  Randall,  Bob  Danielson  and of course, my M-F tractor
     "partner"...Dave Massey! And more, I'm sure. Cool!
     Hi, guys! Hey, Brad...how many ya got now? 75? 100? :)
     Fergie
     1959 TR3A
     TS53990L(O)
     wbeech wrote:

  Welcome back!

  Bill B
  '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
  '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
  "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
  course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

  -----Original Message-----
  From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
  [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
  Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:39 PM
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Subject: [TR] Test

     Sorry to clutter...first post in about 5 or 6 years!!
     TS53990L(O)
  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org

  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

  http://www.team.net/archive
  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
  Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1845 - Release Date: 12/12/2008
  9:02 AM
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Dec 13 10:32:23 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 17:32:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
Message-ID: <121320081732.21882.4943F1A7000DDFA40000557A22165258069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

Get the "low pressure" version and you don't need a pressure regulator.  I ran one on a Midget with SUs one one on a Lotus with a side-draft Weber.  No problems.  (OK, one spring the Lotus did not fire up.  I disconnected the pump hoses and shot some compressed air through the pump in the forward direction.  Everything worked fine thereafter.)

Put it close to the tank and be sure there is a filter between the tank and the pump.  

Bypass the mechanical pump entirely.

Remember that a Facet pump is like me and not like an SU pump:  It never shuts up.  It keeps on ticking even when the carb is no longer calling for fuel.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
> A few quick questions on the facet fuel pumps. I am putting one on my 59 TR3A
> since I have now gone through my second mechanical one.
>   1.. Behind the mechanical (tank to pump) or in front (pump to carbs)? I
> prefer behind because of the rubber hose availability, any pros and cons?
>   2.. Wiring connections?
>   3.. Any need to modify the mechanical or will the facet push/pull through
> it.
>   4.. Does it require a pressure regulator?
> Thanks
> Alex Manzo
> 59 TR3A
> 72 TR6
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3a at comcast.net  Sat Dec 13 11:26:57 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 13:26:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <B83BCC344A9F42FAA7916892B1EFE080@rolofson>
References: <49434A7E.5030900@comcast.net><129514B44D8E43E39E578F7A27BE6EE0@sniffer>
	<49435453.1080500@comcast.net>
	<B83BCC344A9F42FAA7916892B1EFE080@rolofson>
Message-ID: <4943FE71.4010409@comcast.net>

   Thanks,  Bud. Remember the sweatbox that was the 1999 VTR in Portland?
   Maine is supposed to be COOL!!
   Fergie
   1959 TR3A
   TS53990L(O)
   levilevi wrote:

   Michael,

   Welcome back.  Always good to see old friends on the list.

   Bud Rolofson

   71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
   66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
   66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
   71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
   Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

   ----- Original Message -----

   From: Michael

   To: wbeech

   Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net

   Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:21 PM

   Subject: Re: [TR] Test

         Thanks,  Bill! I just took a quick look in the archives and saw
     that a
         lot   of  old  friends  still  hang out here! Fred Thomas, Brad
     Kahler,
         LeviLevi   :),  Randall,  Bob  Danielson  and of course, my M-F
     tractor
        "partner"...Dave Massey! And more, I'm sure. Cool!
        Hi, guys! Hey, Brad...how many ya got now? 75? 100? :)
        Fergie
        1959 TR3A
        TS53990L(O)
        wbeech wrote:
     Welcome back!
     Bill B
     '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
     '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
     "A  Triumph  is  man's  best  friend,  it  always  comes when it is
     called...of
     course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
     -----Original Message-----
     From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
     [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
     Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:39 PM
     To: triumphs at autox.team.net
     Subject: [TR] Test
        Sorry to clutter...first post in about 5 or 6 years!!
        TS53990L(O)
     This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
     http://www.vtr.org
     Triumphs at autox.team.net
     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
     You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net
     http://www.team.net/archive
     No virus found in this incoming message.
     Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
     Version:  8.0.176  /  Virus Database: 270.9.17/1845 - Release Date:
     12/12/2008
     9:02 AM
     _______________________________________________
     Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
     This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
     http://www.vtr.org
     Triumphs at autox.team.net
     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
     You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net
     http://www.team.net/archive

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat Dec 13 11:45:31 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 11:45:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Test
References: <49434A7E.5030900@comcast.net><129514B44D8E43E39E578F7A27BE6EE0@sniffer>
	<49435453.1080500@comcast.net>
	<B83BCC344A9F42FAA7916892B1EFE080@rolofson>
	<4943FE71.4010409@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <95B5C3B9026742AE9C2FAAA3775A8B18@rolofson>

Yeah, Brad Kahler and I went through 104 degree temps in Indiana.  I think the
heat index was around 112.  Maine actually did feel cool at 99 or so after
that.

Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Michael
  To: levilevi
  Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 11:26 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Test


  Thanks, Bud. Remember the sweatbox that was the 1999 VTR in Portland? Maine
is supposed to be COOL!!

  Fergie
  1959 TR3A
  TS53990L(O)


  levilevi wrote:
    Michael,

    Welcome back.  Always good to see old friends on the list.

    Bud Rolofson

    71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
    66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
    66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
    71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
    Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Michael
      To: wbeech
      Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
      Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:21 PM
      Subject: Re: [TR] Test


         Thanks,  Bill! I just took a quick look in the archives and saw that
a
         lot  of  old  friends  still  hang out here! Fred Thomas, Brad
Kahler,
         LeviLevi  :),  Randall,  Bob  Danielson  and of course, my M-F
tractor
         "partner"...Dave Massey! And more, I'm sure. Cool!
         Hi, guys! Hey, Brad...how many ya got now? 75? 100? :)
         Fergie
         1959 TR3A
         TS53990L(O)
         wbeech wrote:

      Welcome back!

      Bill B
      '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
      '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
      "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
      course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

      -----Original Message-----
      From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
      [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
      Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:39 PM
      To: triumphs at autox.team.net
      Subject: [TR] Test

         Sorry to clutter...first post in about 5 or 6 years!!
         TS53990L(O)
      This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
      http://www.vtr.org

      Triumphs at autox.team.net
      http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

      You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

      http://www.team.net/archive
      No virus found in this incoming message.
      Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
      Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1845 - Release Date:
12/12/2008
      9:02 AM
      _______________________________________________

      Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

      This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
      http://www.vtr.org


      Triumphs at autox.team.net
      http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

      You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

      http://www.team.net/archive

From cak at dimebank.com  Sat Dec 13 11:52:15 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 10:52:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Where on the rad. to place a temp. sensor?
Message-ID: <200812131852.mBDIqFIv032432@moose.dimebank.com>

"It depends".

The Italian and German approach is to put it at the bottom of
the radiator, following the logic mentioned by Randall. I like
that mechanism, too. The Brits and Americans, when they have installed
thermostatic electric fans, are inconsistent, but more often than
not put it at the top - presumably with the thinking that the 
thermostat is up at the top, too. Dunno.

The answer also depends on the temperature range of the sensor. If
it's a fixed sensor, you can "adjust" the temperature at which the
fan comes on/goes off by moving it up and down in the radiator.

And, the answer depends on how effective the fan is. If you're constrained
to use a small fan based on clearance issues, you probably want it to
run more and keep the overall temperature of the radiator lower.

Ultimately, the right answer will be determined by how your
car's temp behaves!

Best,
chris

From wbmcleod at gmail.com  Sat Dec 13 11:54:09 2008
From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 11:54:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
In-Reply-To: <013001c95d3a$da9bcde0$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <013001c95d3a$da9bcde0$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <CE6D42EB-06AD-40A8-B8C5-27688A05F386@gmail.com>

To amplify a bit on what Randall said, I have usually mounted my  
rectangular facets on the frame under the passenger area.  The facets  
push gas very nicely, but don't pull worth a damn, so I mount them as  
low as possible so they have gravity feed.

Bill
Slightly Classics
Tucson


On Dec 13, 2008, at 8:52 AM, Alex wrote:

> A few quick questions on the facet fuel pumps. I am putting one on  
> my 59 TR3A
> since I have now gone through my second mechanical one.
>  1.. Behind the mechanical (tank to pump) or in front (pump to  
> carbs)? I
> prefer behind because of the rubber hose availability, any pros and  
> cons?
>  2.. Wiring connections?
>  3.. Any need to modify the mechanical or will the facet push/pull  
> through
> it.
>  4.. Does it require a pressure regulator?
> Thanks
> Alex Manzo
> 59 TR3A
> 72 TR6

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Dec 13 12:11:38 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:11:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <4943DA6D.9070703@comcast.net>
References: <200812130736431.SM04756@[166.70.182.40]>
Message-ID: <4943C29A.11960.36E70D@localhost>

On 13 Dec 2008 at 10:53, Michael wrote:

> Don't you love it when someone quantifies his TR collection as "about"
> 6!  :)

Heh!  Doesn't he know precisely?  Perhaps for some people triumphs 
are continuous, not quantized so to speak.

> >  Howdy Michael,
> >  Oh  yeah,  one other thing we're in the final stages of moving from
> >  Arkansas to Kentucky.

I was more concerned about the upcoming move we're supposed to be 
making.  I have started packing yet.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sat Dec 13 12:59:21 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:59:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
References: <013001c95d3a$da9bcde0$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <7D9A1D8988334758AEDD96005E29B2FD@fred8kwiskhcfu>

I mounted mine on the frame under the drivers seat, removed the fuel pump 
completely, Joe Alexander makes F/P blanking plates, I also have a pressure 
regulator on the inside fender, then over to the carbs, only been like this 
for about 15 years with not one single problem.  "FT" 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Dec 13 15:58:41 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 17:58:41 EST
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <c63.37861bc0.36759821@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/13/2008 12:21:34 AM Central Standard Time, 
tr3a at comcast.net writes: 
>   Thanks,  Bill! I just took a quick look in the archives and saw that a
>    lot  of  old  friends  still  hang out here! Fred Thomas, Brad Kahler,
>    LeviLevi  :),  Randall,  Bob  Danielson  and of course, my M-F tractor
>    "partner"...Dave Massey! And more, I'm sure. Cool!
>    Hi, guys! Hey, Brad...how many ya got now? 75? 100? :)
>    Fergie
>  
 I figured you left because you wanted top billing.  ;-)

Dave Massey-F (well, you know the rest)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Dec 13 16:01:23 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 18:01:23 EST
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <c1d.54e425a5.367598c3@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/13/2008 12:31:39 PM Central Standard Time, 
tr3a at comcast.net writes: 
>   Thanks,  Bud. Remember the sweatbox that was the 1999 VTR in Portland?
>    Maine is supposed to be COOL!!
>  
Sweatbox?!!!  I'm sure Bud remembers the 2000 trip to Portland, OR.  105 in 
Idaho.

Dave

From tr3a at comcast.net  Sat Dec 13 16:23:33 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 18:23:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <c63.37861bc0.36759821@cs.com>
References: <c63.37861bc0.36759821@cs.com>
Message-ID: <494443F5.1000107@comcast.net>

   LOL! Hi, Dave! Some things never change. Your sense of humour is STILL
   warped!
   Hey, you still painting wheel wells with Krylon? ;)
   Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

In a message dated 12/13/2008 12:21:34 AM Central Standard Time,
tr3a at comcast.net writes:

  Thanks,  Bill! I just took a quick look in the archives and saw that a
   lot  of  old  friends  still  hang out here! Fred Thomas, Brad Kahler,
   LeviLevi  :),  Randall,  Bob  Danielson  and of course, my M-F tractor
   "partner"...Dave Massey! And more, I'm sure. Cool!
   Hi, guys! Hey, Brad...how many ya got now? 75? 100? :)
   Fergie

 I figured you left because you wanted top billing.  ;-)

Dave Massey-F (well, you know the rest)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 13 17:06:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:06:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <4943C29A.11960.36E70D@localhost>
Message-ID: <20081214000655.IKZV26434.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Heh!  Doesn't he know precisely?  Perhaps for some people 
> triumphs are continuous, not quantized so to speak.

I have the same problem; but mine is one of definitions.  Does the wrecked
TR3A count (down to perhaps 75% complete and dwindling slowly)?  What about
the project TR3 (currently about 70% assembled) ?  Or the parts collection
(probably 50% of yet another TR3/A) ?

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 13 17:11:55 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:11:55 -0800
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
In-Reply-To: <CE6D42EB-06AD-40A8-B8C5-27688A05F386@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20081214001155.IMVQ26434.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> The facets push gas very nicely, but don't pull worth a damn, 

Experiences vary, of course.  On the TR3A, it seemed to work fine mounted
slightly more than midway up the inner fender, above where the stock pump
went.  ISTR Facet rates them to lift to 18" or so, but I've not had any
problem with even higher lifts.  The one I used on the motorhome generator
must've been at least 24" above the bottom of the tank, and had no trouble.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Dec 13 17:30:15 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 19:30:15 EST
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <c09.500dc91b.3675ad97@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/13/2008 5:23:47 PM Central Standard Time, 
tr3a at comcast.net writes: 
> LOL! Hi, Dave! Some things never change. Your sense of humour is STILL 
> warped! 
> 
> Hey, you still painting wheel wells with Krylon? ;)
> 
Nah. I've moved on.  I'm powder coating now.  Gonna give Fred a run for his 
money.

From davidt at opentext.com  Sat Dec 13 20:41:51 2008
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 22:41:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Us bank commercial
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B047AAA@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

   Just  watching  a seattle channel and a US bank commercial came on. It
   was  a  "cartoony" like commercial with silhouettes. They centred on a
   car, it was a TR3a :-). Cool to see :-)
   Regards
   David Templeton
   '59 Tr3a
   '74 spitsix
   (Both in temporary custody of the ex :-( )

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat Dec 13 21:14:48 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:14:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Test
References: <c1d.54e425a5.367598c3@cs.com>
Message-ID: <EEA414B41E29414A8D860C324F9BCEDE@rolofson>

Yes, Pocatello was bit toasty that day.  Never has a swimming pool felt so
good as it did the end of that day.

Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dave1massey at cs.com
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:01 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Test


  In a message dated 12/13/2008 12:31:39 PM Central Standard Time,
  tr3a at comcast.net writes:
  >   Thanks,  Bud. Remember the sweatbox that was the 1999 VTR in Portland?
  >    Maine is supposed to be COOL!!
  >
  Sweatbox?!!!  I'm sure Bud remembers the 2000 trip to Portland, OR.  105 in
  Idaho.

  Dave
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From philhyer at gmail.com  Fri Dec 12 19:50:32 2008
From: philhyer at gmail.com (Phil Hyer)
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2008 21:50:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Free Stag Parts
Message-ID: <c06673ca0812121850gf534a35m2ca1ec46ba56909@mail.gmail.com>

Listers, this ad for FREE Stag parts popped up on craigslist in
Pompano Beach (south) Florida. If anyone can use them the price is
right!

http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/pts/955373365.html

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Dec 13 23:46:55 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 23:46:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Us bank commercial
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B047AAA@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B047AAA@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <00446F83F84140169E356531DD88F53C@sniffer>

Yep,
They were running that ad in the Salt Lake area a few months ago but haven't
seen it since.
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 8:42 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Us bank commercial

   Just  watching  a seattle channel and a US bank commercial came on. It
   was  a  "cartoony" like commercial with silhouettes. They centred on a
   car, it was a TR3a :-). Cool to see :-)
   Regards
   David Templeton
   '59 Tr3a
   '74 spitsix
   (Both in temporary custody of the ex :-( )
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1847 - Release Date: 12/13/2008
4:56 PM

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 14 07:45:32 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 09:45:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Frame Paint
Message-ID: <BAY123-W1043142F5B15F7AF6F6F2CBAF70@phx.gbl>

Got the TR4A/TR250/TR6 frame back from the sandblasters this week and and
getting ready to have at it. What have you folks used for frame paint that you
have liked (or didn't like).

Thanks,
Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_12
2008

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Dec 14 08:02:14 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:02:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W1043142F5B15F7AF6F6F2CBAF70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1999373035.728161229266934216.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Got the TR4A/TR250/TR6 frame back from the sandblasters this week and and
>getting ready to have at it. What have you folks used for frame paint that
you
>have liked (or didn't like).


Marty, when I took my TR3 down to the frame, it was in pretty good shape, so I
wire brushed it like crazy, Simple Greened it, rinsed, and used phosophoric
acid to ready the metal.B  Then I painted with POR 15.B  Exceedingly happy
with the results.B  POR 15 allegedly gets harder when wettened, and bonds to
rust.



What I don't know is, how it would bond with metal after sandblasting.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667)

New Hampshire

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Dec 14 08:51:36 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:51:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W1043142F5B15F7AF6F6F2CBAF70@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W1043142F5B15F7AF6F6F2CBAF70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <200812141051.37197.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 14 December 2008 09:45:32 marty sukey wrote:
> Got the TR4A/TR250/TR6 frame back from the sandblasters this week and and
> getting ready to have at it. What have you folks used for frame paint that
> you have liked (or didn't like).
>
> Thanks,
> Marty
>
Marty,

I just got a frame paint kit from Eastwood for the 6 project as it was on 
sale.

Here is a 
link.http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=23497&itemType=PRODUCT

I will use this paint on the 6 frame this spring after the sand blasting is 
finished.

Sounds like a good product but since I havent tried it yet I cant say for sure 
if it is worth the extra $.

In the past I have used rustoleum primer (red), (gray) and then the final coat 
of glossy black.

So far that is working out ok but I dont drive in the snow and try to avoid 
rain.

Both my 3 and 4 frames were sandblasted.

Bob

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Sun Dec 14 08:59:15 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 07:59:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] Frame Paint
References: <BAY123-W1043142F5B15F7AF6F6F2CBAF70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <23757FEFDE0D4803B9EB471CCD55117A@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

I have used Hammerite finishes on my TR6  & TR3 frame after preparation. The
product can be brushed on or sprayed. Available in qts., gal, and aerosol
spray in different colors. I have also used the silver Hammerite on TR6 swing
arms, very nice look. After 10 years the finish is till pristine with very
little road  chips. I use simple green when I want to detail the car
underneath and surface comes out a satin shine. The guys in San Diego area use
a lot of it on their cars, because of the corrosion resistant and the harden
finish from the ocean mist.
Available at your favorite local hardware store.

Ibsen

----- Original Message -----
  From: marty sukey
  To: Triumph List
  Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 6:45 AM
  Subject: [TR] Frame Paint


  Got the TR4A/TR250/TR6 frame back from the sandblasters this week and and
  getting ready to have at it. What have you folks used for frame paint that
you
  have liked (or didn't like).

  Thanks,
  Marty

  _________________________________________________________________
  Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills.
  http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_
12
  2008
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Dec 14 09:46:28 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:46:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W1043142F5B15F7AF6F6F2CBAF70@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W1043142F5B15F7AF6F6F2CBAF70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20081214164651.49CFB18764E@autox.team.net>

I'll put in another vote for POR 15.  Haven't seen it come back off 
and seems to be resistant to the usual bad fluifs.

- Tony Drews

At 08:45 AM 12/14/2008, marty sukey wrote:
>Got the TR4A/TR250/TR6 frame back from the sandblasters this week and and
>getting ready to have at it. What have you folks used for frame paint that you
>have liked (or didn't like).
>
>Thanks,
>Marty

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Dec 14 09:46:59 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 11:46:59 EST
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
Message-ID: <bef.39850eb2.36769283@aol.com>

hello, during the years of the tar production, there have been some very  
rare and unusual parts that were made in limited production. I have a buddy of  
mine, anomoyous will keep his name anomalous that i know who has a  fabulous 
collection of rare tr3 parts. let's here what you guys have stored away  there. 
larry schwartz  1960 tr3-a
**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Dec 14 09:53:43 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 11:53:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] NO Graphite for stator tube wiring
Message-ID: <000801c95e0c$86dd2c30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Long time, no see!

I have received help from the great Andy Dixon et al on the Control Head in my
TR3.  At this minute, i seem to be having success getting my steering harness
down the stator tube WITHOUT GRAPHITE!  Why can't this be done without
graphite or any other form of lubrication?

tHANKS,
Paul Dorsey

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 5.7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 14 10:14:25 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 12:14:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] NO Graphite for stator tube wiring
In-Reply-To: <000801c95e0c$86dd2c30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <000801c95e0c$86dd2c30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W22A7A3BD5AFC26A09FCCC9A5F70@phx.gbl>

> Long time, no see!> > I have received help from the great Andy Dixon et al
on the Control Head in my> TR3. At this minute, i seem to be having success
getting my steering harness> down the stator tube WITHOUT GRAPHITE! Why can't
this be done without> graphite or any other form of lubrication?> > tHANKS,>
Paul Dorsey

I can't think of any reason why it can't be done, Paul. I have done that job
more than once without the use of any lubricant.

John H.

From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net  Sun Dec 14 10:29:54 2008
From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (ATT Yahoo Mail-rgt2)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 09:29:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] Frame Paint
References: <BAY123-W1043142F5B15F7AF6F6F2CBAF70@phx.gbl>
	<200812141051.37197.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <D105B7523D4C4E20B9937E15CE480D31@HomePC>

I used the frame paint kit from Eastwood that Bob mentions.  I found it to 
be very easy to apply and very durable.

Rod Trunnell
62 TR3B TCF1037l


--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 7:51 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Frame Paint

> On Sunday 14 December 2008 09:45:32 marty sukey wrote:
>> Got the TR4A/TR250/TR6 frame back from the sandblasters this week and and
>> getting ready to have at it. What have you folks used for frame paint 
>> that
>> you have liked (or didn't like).
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Marty
>>
> Marty,
>
> I just got a frame paint kit from Eastwood for the 6 project as it was on
> sale.
>
> Here is a
> link.http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=23497&itemType=PRODUCT
>
> I will use this paint on the 6 frame this spring after the sand blasting 
> is
> finished.
>
> Sounds like a good product but since I havent tried it yet I cant say for 
> sure
> if it is worth the extra $.
>
> In the past I have used rustoleum primer (red), (gray) and then the final 
> coat
> of glossy black.
>
> So far that is working out ok but I dont drive in the snow and try to 
> avoid
> rain.
>
> Both my 3 and 4 frames were sandblasted.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________

From tr3a at comcast.net  Sun Dec 14 10:32:18 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 12:32:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <20081214164651.49CFB18764E@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY123-W1043142F5B15F7AF6F6F2CBAF70@phx.gbl>
	<20081214164651.49CFB18764E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <49454322.8090800@comcast.net>

   Fluifs?!  hahaha!  I've  been away from the list for a very long time,
   but I see Joe Curry's typo lives on! It's from 1999 or so! :)
   Fergie
   1959 TR3A
   TS53990L(O)
   Tony Drews wrote:

     I'll put in another vote for POR 15.  Haven't seen it come back off
     and seems to be resistant to the usual bad fluifs.
     - Tony Drews
     At 08:45 AM 12/14/2008, marty sukey wrote:

     Got  the  TR4A/TR250/TR6 frame back from the sandblasters this week
     and and
     getting  ready  to  have  at it. What have you folks used for frame
     paint that you
     have liked (or didn't like).
     Thanks,
     Marty

     _______________________________________________
     Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
     This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
     http://www.vtr.org
     Triumphs at autox.team.net
     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
     You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net
     http://www.team.net/archive

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sun Dec 14 10:41:13 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 12:41:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Frame Paint
References: <BAY123-W1043142F5B15F7AF6F6F2CBAF70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A0681F4676FF4786A4F87413EA5738AF@fred8kwiskhcfu>

I had my frame blasted to bare metal and then powder-coated in 1992, still 
looks as it did that day in 1992 and use only a pressure washer to keep it 
clean. "FT"

> Got the TR4A/TR250/TR6 frame back from the sandblasters this week and and
> getting ready to have at it. What have you folks used for frame paint that 
> you
> have liked (or didn't like).
>
> Thanks,
> Marty

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 14 10:44:51 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 09:44:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] NO Graphite for stator tube wiring
In-Reply-To: <000801c95e0c$86dd2c30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20081214174452.UHBP5190.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Why can't this be done without graphite or 
> any other form of lubrication?

Paul, we all have differing opinions and experiences on the best way to
accomplish various tasks.  I don't think anyone can ever say "This is
absolutely the only possible way to do this" or even with any certainty that
any particular method is the "best" way.

Personally, I've never seen any need for lubricant when pulling the harness
through the stator tube; but then my harness and tube are likely not quite
identical to Andy's.  If his is tighter, some lube might help.

At any rate, a little graphite isn't going to harm anything.

Randall

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sun Dec 14 10:57:27 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 12:57:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
References: <bef.39850eb2.36769283@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E12EB1813B144ACEB4E24D71258237B3@fred8kwiskhcfu>

I have a rather neat collection of T/R parts, I guess my favorite is a 
1950's style portable world band radio, very large and you cannot carry it 
around by hand due to it's very heavy weight, next I like the T/R 3 style 
stem mount rear view mirror with a Smith's electric clock in the center of 
the mirror and lastly a 1959 RHD TR 3 that is 16"L X 6" H X 5" W, of course 
it is signal rad, the driver is wearing a Derby, very neat.  "FT"

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:46 AM
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts


> hello, during the years of the tar production, there have been some very
> rare and unusual parts that were made in limited production. I have a 
> buddy of
> mine, anomoyous will keep his name anomalous that i know who has a 
> fabulous
> collection of rare tr3 parts. let's here what you guys have stored away 
> there.
> larry schwartz  1960 tr3-a
> **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and
> favorite sites in one place.  Try it now.
> (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sun Dec 14 11:03:27 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 13:03:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
References: <bef.39850eb2.36769283@aol.com>
Message-ID: <21465DCBEE084E1B8F0BC7F30DC8E655@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Rare- how about a ==AVON==  glassT/R 3 after shave cologne (full bottle), 
and still in the original box, this I think is really a rare one, smells 
very good, (I Think)  "FT"
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:46 AM
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts


> hello, during the years of the tar production, there have been some very
> rare and unusual parts that were made in limited production. I have a 
> buddy of
> mine, anomoyous will keep his name anomalous that i know who has a 
> fabulous
> collection of rare tr3 parts. let's here what you guys have stored away 
> there.
> larry schwartz  1960 tr3-a
> **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and
> favorite sites in one place.  Try it now.
> (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Dec 14 11:07:30 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 11:07:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <49454322.8090800@comcast.net>
References: <BAY123-W1043142F5B15F7AF6F6F2CBAF70@phx.gbl><20081214164651.49CFB18764E@autox.team.net>
	<49454322.8090800@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A13147486184024917BF5F361826746@newcomputer>

Yes, Unfortunately we have become synonymous.  :)

Welcome  Back Michael!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 10:32 AM
To: Tony Drews
Cc: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] Frame Paint

   Fluifs?!  hahaha!  I've  been away from the list for a very long time,
   but I see Joe Curry's typo lives on! It's from 1999 or so! :)
   Fergie
   1959 TR3A
   TS53990L(O)

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun Dec 14 11:08:07 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 13:08:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4(A)
Message-ID: <029801c95e16$eb1a4a70$6401a8c0@STATION6>

There is a movie on cable right now (Sunday 1:00 PM). It is called "The
Computer Wore Tennis Shoes" with Kirt Russell 1969. There is a beautiful
powder Blue TR4 (A) that one of the kids is driving.
Alex Manzo

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Dec 14 11:47:25 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 13:47:25 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3A speedo
Message-ID: <cd0.3313486f.3676aebd@aol.com>

I have just installed the third speedo in my TR3A and am getting the same  
results.  First, the needle reads low and goes through fits of wide  variations, 
the highest of which appear to be the correct  speed.   
Speedo 1:  The original.  Someone "fixed" this one and left parts  out that 
run the odometer and trip meter but the needle magnet mechanism seemed  to work 
OK but it appeared to run 20 mph slow, and ocassioanlly has fits.
Speedo 2: I took the guts out of a TR6 speedo and put them in my original  
speedo and all seemed to work OK except the trip meter numbers did not line up  
with the window properly on the original face, but, OK lets try it.  It  seems 
to run about 20 mph slow and occassionally has fits
Speedo 3:  Just bought it used.  A fine looking piece of  equipment for less 
than half of sending one to Nisonger.  I installed  it.  It appears to run 
about 20 mph slow and occasionally has fits.
 
I have installed a J type OD on this car with the 90 degreee adapter.   I 
have a friend who has done the same on his 3A and has no issues with the  speedo. 
 I have another friend who has MGs and suggests that the problem  may go back 
to something he experienced with one of his MGs with OD.  Now,  I realize to 
many on this list that this is like saying my dog gets sick when he  eats 
chocolate bars, so I should not eat chocolate bars.  
What the MG friend has suggested is that the drive gear in the OD tail  piece 
that drives the OD speedo gear is not keyed to the shaft and maybe  slipping 
on the shaft as it rotates.  Tightening the nut on the shaft on  the end of 
the OD tailpiece will "capture" this gear and  may correct  the problem.
 
Before going there I have a list of other things to check out on this, but  
what say the list?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. The NEW 
AOL.com.(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000019)

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Dec 14 12:16:18 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 14:16:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] NO Graphite for stator tube wiring
References: <20081214174452.UHBP5190.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <002001c95e20$74c9dac0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Alot of my questions are retorical.  me searching for wrongness.  At some 
point I'm sure I'''ve asked, 'What happens when one changes their oil too 
much?'
paul

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] NO Graphite for stator tube wiring


>> Why can't this be done without graphite or
>> any other form of lubrication?
>
> Paul, we all have differing opinions and experiences on the best way to
> accomplish various tasks.  I don't think anyone can ever say "This is
> absolutely the only possible way to do this" or even with any certainty 
> that
> any particular method is the "best" way.
>
> Personally, I've never seen any need for lubricant when pulling the 
> harness
> through the stator tube; but then my harness and tube are likely not quite
> identical to Andy's.  If his is tighter, some lube might help.
>
> At any rate, a little graphite isn't going to harm anything.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 5.7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From triosan at gmail.com  Sun Dec 14 12:31:27 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 11:31:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] Need a TR6 4 speed mainshaft
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0812141131h26d0197fnd2f7ac42b20e7b0d@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone have a later tranny TR6 main shaft they would like to sell?  Someone
who converted their 4 speed to OD would be a good candidate.Thanks,

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Sun Dec 14 12:36:08 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 14:36:08 EST
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
Message-ID: <bb9.3ba65b1c.3676ba28@aol.com>

Fred:
I also have a Avon Triumph TR3  '56  "Wild Country after shave".  I have 
treasured that now empty bottle but in the most recent issue of Hemmings Sports & 
Exotics, Mike Cook, in his regular column, said he found one at a swap meet 
for $3! 

Amazed that yours is full.  Even imatition British cars leak!

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana


**************
One site keeps you connected to all your email: 
AOL Mail, Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. The NEW 
AOL.com.(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&amp;icid=aolcom40vanity&amp;ncid=emlcntaolcom00000019)

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 14 13:36:06 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 13:36:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
In-Reply-To: <bb9.3ba65b1c.3676ba28@aol.com>
References: <bb9.3ba65b1c.3676ba28@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0812141236v2d17ad81n49ee7416a254d4ca@mail.gmail.com>

That Avon bottle was the basis for some of our local club's trophies at an
event last year:

http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Roundup%20Trophy.JPG

Needless to say, I was hoping for 3rd place (1st place trophy was an MGTD).
Got my wish.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Dec 14 14:34:23 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 16:34:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] "Best" Nut to use
Message-ID: <344B9FD1C0D5437586669E131FA1A9A7@BOBSNEWPC>

Right now I have the differential and axles out of the car. In the past I've
always used Nyloc nuts (brand new ones, never re-use them) but am seeing
more references to better locking type nuts to use. I want them for: diff to
driveshaft, diff to axles and axle hubs to training arms. In Mcmaster, I can
find: nylocs, expanding/Flexloc and Distorted-Thread of which there are 5
choices. I know one person using Cleve-locs(?) which might be a brand name.
Someone else is using all Aircraft quality AN and NAS type hardware. All
provide for vibration resistant fit which is what I'm looking for. So what
are you using or what do you recommend?

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 14 15:27:34 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 14:27:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] "Best" Nut to use
In-Reply-To: <344B9FD1C0D5437586669E131FA1A9A7@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <20081214222735.SQMP29496.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> So what are you using or what do you recommend?

I use what McMaster-Carr calls an "oval lock with conical top".  Similar in
principal to Cleveloc nuts, but a slightly different shape.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/114/3139

Unaffected by heat or vibration; and held perfectly when ordinary Nylocs
would back off in a few thousand miles.  Contrary to what MMC says, I reuse
them several times.  

Which is kind of silly, since that box of 100 would be a lifetime supply
even if I used a new one every time <G>

The only downside I see is that they do wear the bolt threads to some
extent, and after many on/off cycles it would probably be prudent to replace
the bolt.  But I've not reached that point yet.

Randall

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 14 16:06:59 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 18:06:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] "Best" Nut to use
In-Reply-To: <20081214222735.SQMP29496.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <344B9FD1C0D5437586669E131FA1A9A7@BOBSNEWPC>
	<20081214222735.SQMP29496.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <BAY109-W16A64107F275BB5F49CBDBA5F70@phx.gbl>

> The only downside I see is that they do wear the bolt threads to some>
extent, and after many on/off cycles it would probably be prudent to replace>
the bolt. But I've not reached that point yet.> > Randall

A good cross-thread beats a safety any day!

John

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Sun Dec 14 16:10:36 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 18:10:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Anybody seen this movie?
Message-ID: <CA5328AC-3571-4946-B151-09B70EE28338@mindspring.com>

I went to Netlfix to see what is coming this week and they suggested a  
movie called Flywheel that I might like. On the cover is a TR3.

http://www.flywheelthemovie.com/story.php

Ashford Little
'70 TR6

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Sun Dec 14 17:09:39 2008
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 00:09:39 +0000
Subject: [TR] Anybody seen this movie?
Message-ID: <1166787105-1229299752-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2047708392-@bxe120.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I highly reccomend it. The owner of the tr3 is a friend of mine.
------Original Message------
From: Ashford Little
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: 6-Pack Email List
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Anybody seen this movie?
Sent: Dec 14, 2008 6:10 PM

I went to Netlfix to see what is coming this week and they suggested a  
movie called Flywheel that I might like. On the cover is a TR3.

http://www.flywheelthemovie.com/story.php

Ashford Little
'70 TR6
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as rbtr3a at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive


Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun Dec 14 17:46:31 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 19:46:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Anybody seen this movie?
Message-ID: <7D8BEB9B.24627020.00159EE9@cs.com>

Ashford,

I saw FLYWHEEL on the shelves of a rental place and meant to go back after it, but didnt.

Coincidentally, the TRIUMPH factory used 'FLYWHEEL' as the address for their facsimile transmissions.

Thanks for reminding me about this movie as I wish to see it or acquire it.

Joe A



>I went to Netlfix to see what is coming this week and they suggested a  
>movie called Flywheel that I might like. On the cover is a TR3.
>
>http://www.flywheelthemovie.com/story.php
>
>Ashford Little
>'70 TR6
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From chandler.rick at comcast.net  Sun Dec 14 18:08:22 2008
From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 17:08:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A speedo
Message-ID: <08EF3E9109B34F529C4E5C190A13D50A@ricksoffice>

Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 13:47:25 EST

From: DLylis at aol.com

Subject: [TR] TR3A speedo

To: triumphs at autox.team.net

Message-ID: <cd0.3313486f.3676aebd at aol.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

 

David,

 

You need to rotate the needle clockwise a bit to fix your average speed
under-report of 20 mph. Hold the main disk with your fingers and slowly
rotate the needle to advance the reading by 20 mph; these are simple cars.
Concerning the instability, I am sad to report that I have recently gone
through 3 Moss speedo cables before realizing that ALL of them are more that
10 thou oversize at the square cross-section end (key) at the transmission
junction. This fit must be smooth, with the key completely entering the
female part (I feel like Larry Flint writing this). The oversized keys only
enter part way, and when the collar is screwed down, the cable buckles and
twists in compression and results in erratic rotation, and eventually
failure in the speedo bushings. The key dimension is supposed to be 0.125
inch on a side, and must be ground down on ALL sides to fit. Go carefully
here, as the key is just a press-formed portion of the inner spiral cable,
and has little excess metal to remove. Moss Motors is a friend to us
enthusiasts, and I am grateful that they support our cars. In this
particular case, Moss should insist on spec cables from their vendors, as
the consequences of bad cables are often expensive.

 




 

Rick Chandler

2414 73rd Avenue SE

Mercer Island WA 98040

Home         206 236 8662

Cell            206 909 8408

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Dec 14 18:20:24 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 19:20:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Anybody seen this movie?
References: <7D8BEB9B.24627020.00159EE9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <001d01c95e53$79273940$ca89a8c0@Ranteer.local>

flywheel is a cute little movie about a used car salesman who buys a tr3 
which ends up needing a flywheel.

that is completely peripheral to the movie.  the  used car salesman (and i 
don't remember why/how) suddenly decides not to cheat people anymore, and in 
fact returns a bunch of money to people he has cheated.  he then is close to 
going out of business . . .

i won't spoil it for you.  its very preachy, light and fluffy.

the tr3 shows up in the beginning, i think once in the middle, and at the 
very end.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
To: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com>; "6-PackEmail List" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph Email List" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Anybody seen this movie?


> Ashford,
>
> I saw FLYWHEEL on the shelves of a rental place and meant to go back after 
> it, but didnt.
>
> Coincidentally, the TRIUMPH factory used 'FLYWHEEL' as the address for 
> their facsimile transmissions.
>
> Thanks for reminding me about this movie as I wish to see it or acquire 
> it.
>
> Joe A
>
>
>
>>I went to Netlfix to see what is coming this week and they suggested a
>>movie called Flywheel that I might like. On the cover is a TR3.
>>
>>http://www.flywheelthemovie.com/story.php

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Dec 14 19:09:26 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 18:09:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] frame paint
Message-ID: <394873.53878.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I went with POR-15 for my tr-3 frame.  two coats.  from all i hear and read it
seems to be good stuff.  maybe should have gone with 3 coats.

gary n.

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Sun Dec 14 19:46:27 2008
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 18:46:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] Justin:  EARLY TR2 JACK WANTED
Message-ID: <4945C503.9070002@greenheart.com>

I had no luck with this, I'm going to give it another shot, as finding 
this could like an Xmas present for myself....  --Justin

WANTED:  EARLY TR2 JACK

See image:
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll126/InvestorImage/WANTEDTR2Jack.jpg

Wanted:  Original Early TR2 Jack, Part Number 107652, Approximately 21 
inches long.  (Note the exposed threads.  Not looking for reproductions 
or later models.)  Also looking for these other original tools: 
"Spanner, tube 1/2" x .56" A/F", "Spanner, sparking plug", "Spanner, 
adjustable", "Tommy Bar", "Screwdriver", "Gauge, feeler, assembly".  I'm 
trying to put together the original tool kit for my very early 1954 
TR2.  Looking for good condition with a patina matching the age of the 
car and time spent in driven car.   (I'm not trying to put together a 
set that looks like it came from the factory yesterday.)

Let me know your price.   I could also trade silicone valve cover 
gaskets... once I have made another run of them.

Thanks

Justin
jmwagner at greenheart.com

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Sun Dec 14 20:08:01 2008
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 22:08:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
In-Reply-To: <21465DCBEE084E1B8F0BC7F30DC8E655@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <bef.39850eb2.36769283@aol.com>
	<21465DCBEE084E1B8F0BC7F30DC8E655@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <31109C04784A46F1BAB6157F5EAABC4F@Scott>

I have one of these in the same condition, never opened.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fred thomas
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 1:03 PM
To: L1J1S at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts

Rare- how about a ==AVON==  glassT/R 3 after shave cologne (full bottle), 
and still in the original box, this I think is really a rare one, smells 
very good, (I Think)  "FT"
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:46 AM
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts


> hello, during the years of the tar production, there have been some very
> rare and unusual parts that were made in limited production. I have a 
> buddy of
> mine, anomoyous will keep his name anomalous that i know who has a 
> fabulous
> collection of rare tr3 parts. let's here what you guys have stored away 
> there.
> larry schwartz  1960 tr3-a
> **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and
> favorite sites in one place.  Try it now.
>
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000
010)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as suhringtr36 at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sun Dec 14 21:00:40 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:00:40 EST
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
Message-ID: <c64.3a36839f.36773068@aol.com>

I have an original windscreen washer-the kind with the pneumatic pump on  the 
dash. I'm afrain tio install itor use it!
 
Mike Moore 
59 TR3A
 
**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sun Dec 14 21:43:47 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:43:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
References: <bef.39850eb2.36769283@aol.com>
	<21465DCBEE084E1B8F0BC7F30DC8E655@fred8kwiskhcfu>
	<31109C04784A46F1BAB6157F5EAABC4F@Scott>
Message-ID: <117107F9501449EA8730A7A66055B39A@fred8kwiskhcfu>

I had no idea that this Avon T/R 3 was so popular or well known, I really 
thought I had a rare piece, well from a value standpoint it just went to 
$1.49 from my mind of $100.00, so be it.  "FT"
============================================================================================================= 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 14 22:01:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 21:01:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
In-Reply-To: <117107F9501449EA8730A7A66055B39A@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <20081215050118.XJJI26227.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

>  well from a value 
> standpoint it just went to
> $1.49 from my mind of $100.00, so be it.  "FT"

Just like my retirement fund !

Randall

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Mon Dec 15 03:36:34 2008
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 05:36:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
In-Reply-To: <21465DCBEE084E1B8F0BC7F30DC8E655@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <bef.39850eb2.36769283@aol.com>
	<21465DCBEE084E1B8F0BC7F30DC8E655@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <49463332.2070706@frontiernet.net>

I've got one of those Fred, but it just smelss like alcohol. :-)

George Richardson



fred thomas wrote:
> Rare- how about a ==AVON==  glassT/R 3 after shave cologne (full 
> bottle), and still in the original box, this I think is really a rare 
> one, smells very good, (I Think)  "FT"

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 15 05:49:49 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 07:49:49 EST
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <c84.40d94f66.3677ac6d@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/13/2008 10:15:11 PM Central Standard Time, 
levilevi at comcast.net writes: 
> Yes, Pocatello was bit toasty that day.  Never has a swimming pool felt so 
> good as it did the end of that day.
>  
> 
And we broke out the coats when the temps dropped below 90 that evening.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 15 06:01:59 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 08:01:59 EST
Subject: [TR] Frame Paint
Message-ID: <cd7.45afb296.3677af47@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/14/2008 11:56:55 AM Central Standard Time, 
frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes: 
> I had my frame blasted to bare metal and then powder-coated in 1992, still 
> looks as it did that day in 1992 and use only a pressure washer to keep it 
> clean. "FT"
> 
I gotta pipe in here.  I started my TR3 restoration a couple years ahead of a 
friend of mine.  I painted my frame because I didn't know of any 
powdercoaters who could do anything as large as a frame.  But my friend did find one.  I'm 
still kicking myself.

Oh well, at least I have a significant number of other PC'd parts.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 15 06:25:11 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 08:25:11 EST
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
Message-ID: <bbb.4037a908.3677b4b7@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/14/2008 10:48:53 PM Central Standard Time, 
frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes: 
> I had no idea that this Avon T/R 3 was so popular or well known, I really 
> thought I had a rare piece, well from a value standpoint it just went to 
> $1.49 from my mind of $100.00, so be it.  "FT"
> 
Rats!  I thought I had a gold mine with my two.  One still in the box.

I have no idea what they smell like.

Dave

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 15 07:05:33 2008
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 08:05:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
In-Reply-To: <117107F9501449EA8730A7A66055B39A@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <bef.39850eb2.36769283@aol.com>
	<21465DCBEE084E1B8F0BC7F30DC8E655@fred8kwiskhcfu>
	<31109C04784A46F1BAB6157F5EAABC4F@Scott> 
	<117107F9501449EA8730A7A66055B39A@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W25A88C1FBE17BD6E97D35FE1F40@phx.gbl>

Sorry to be the one to give you the bad news Fred, but I bought one on ebay a
few years ago.
I think it was under ten dollars.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA


'63 TR3B TCF587L


That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!


See it moves!




> Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:43:47 -0500
> From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
> To: suhringtr36 at comcast.net; L1J1S at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
>
> I had no idea that this Avon T/R 3 was so popular or well known, I really
> thought I had a rare piece, well from a value standpoint it just went to
> $1.49 from my mind of $100.00, so be it.  "FT"
>
=============================================================================
================================
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 15 07:58:37 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 14:58:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] frame paint
In-Reply-To: <394873.53878.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <394873.53878.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W124094198271B9A22D2E57E5F40@phx.gbl>

I have found that a liberal coating of a mixture of oil, road asphalt, and
dirt makes a very effective covering.

Best regards,
Tom



> Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 18:09:26 -0800
> From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] frame paint
>
> I went with POR-15 for my tr-3 frame.  two coats.  from all i hear and read
it
> seems to be good stuff.  maybe should have gone with 3 coats.
>
> gary n.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_12
2008

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Dec 15 09:13:00 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 11:13:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] frame paint
Message-ID: <20081215111300.BUJ44458@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

tom wrote:
> I have found that a liberal coating of a mixture of oil,
> road asphalt, and dirt makes a very effective covering.

As an added benefit, it comes with a very effective self-application mechanism.
--
Jim Muller, possessing the absolute rarest collection of TR3 parts, indeed the limiting case, mathematically speaking.  It is so rare that it doesn't exist at all.

From kentshrack at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 15 09:50:10 2008
From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 08:50:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Tr3 rare parts
Message-ID: <316782.54457.qm@web57806.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I bought what I thought was a really rare RPM limiter for a TR3 on E-Bay.  I
had never seen one.  It looked as though it screws on the dizzy base, where
the tach cable screws on, then the tach cable screws onto the RPM limiter.  It
has two wire terminal connectors which I guessed wired to the low voltage wire
to the dizzy.  How rare could that be I thought.  I had envisioned taking it
apart to find fly weights with springs and a grounding system when the RPM got
to high.  Everything looked good in the picture.  When it came, it was about 4
times larger than I had thought.  Nothing in the picture to compare sizes. 
After some research I found that in fact it was for the transmission for an
Austin Healey.  I paid $12, re-listed it and got my $12 back.  Only out the
postage one way. 
I do have 4 TR3 Avon bottles in boxes, a few metal push cars, windshield
washer, ashtray, etc.
 
Kent Shrack

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Dec 15 10:15:50 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 12:15:50 EST
Subject: [TR] frame paint
Message-ID: <cee.4b743702.3677eac6@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/15/2008 7:04:50 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes:

I have  found that a liberal coating of a mixture of oil, road asphalt, and
dirt  makes a very effective covering.

Best  regards,
Tom





Years ago, one of my best friends and employee was from Durham, England.  
Phil told me that when he was a child,  cars were not something everyone  owned 
in England, and that those who owned one took a lot of pride  in maintaining 
them.
 
In his case, he said his father was concerned about the car rusting. Each  
time the oil was changed. the car was blocked up and Phils job. as a child, had  
to crawl under the car with a brush and a pan of oil.His job was to carefully 
 paint the entire underside of the car and the inside of the fender wells 
using  all the used motor oil.
Phil said that several time his father carefully removed  the inner  door 
panels from all four doors and painted the inside of the doors with the old  oil.
 
Their cars never had any rust, but Phil said his Mom was forever  complaining 
about the smell!
 
Mike Moore 
59 TR3A
**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Mon Dec 15 10:21:31 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 12:21:31 EST
Subject: [TR] tr3 - who has the rarest collection of parts
Message-ID: <d25.3fab683b.3677ec1b@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/14/2008 2:55:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Loumetelko at aol.com writes:

Fred:
I also have a Avon Triumph TR3  '56  "Wild Country  after shave". ...
As it happens, my mom was the neighborhood Avon pusher, er,  seller at the 
time, so I ended up with at least two of them. I'm pretty sure  both probably 
still have nearly all the after shave in them. ;-)  

--Andy Mace  (back from the dark of the upstate NY ice storm/power outage!)

*Mrs  Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet,  it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines  Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6  vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald 
Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From cofrog at q.com  Mon Dec 15 10:21:46 2008
From: cofrog at q.com (DANNY D FORGEY)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 17:21:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tr3 rare parts
In-Reply-To: <316782.54457.qm@web57806.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <316782.54457.qm@web57806.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU129-W580B6FB786C79EA74FC95D4F40@phx.gbl>

Yellow Dinky Toy TR2.

Dan>> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as
cofrog at q.com> > http://www.team.net/archive

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Mon Dec 15 10:23:47 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 12:23:47 EST
Subject: [TR] frame paint
Message-ID: <d10.3f7756df.3677eca3@aol.com>

No long-term experimentation at this point, since the project is still in  
its early stages, but I recently used POR's Chassis Black paint on the GT6  
convertible project chassis and some related bits. We put it on with foam  
brushes, and it looks great and seems pretty tough (having already bumped it  more 
than once with stray tools and such).  

--Andy Mace  (back from the dark of the upstate NY ice storm/power outage!)

*Mrs  Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet,  it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines  Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6  vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald 
Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Mon Dec 15 10:34:54 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 12:34:54 EST
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <be0.4bd57c02.3677ef3e@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/13/2008 1:21:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3a at comcast.net writes:

Thanks,  Bill! I just took a quick look in the  archives and saw that a
lot  of  old   friends  still  hang out here! Fred Thomas, Brad  Kahler,
LeviLevi  :),  Randall,  Bob   Danielson  and of course, my M-F tractor
"partner"...Dave  Massey! And more, I'm sure. Cool!....
==AM==
I'm still here as well, Michael. Let me be one of the last to  welcome you 
back to the list. Nothing personal; it's just that I'm only an  hour or so back 
after the upstate NY ice storm/power outage that left me in  the dark (oh, how 
could you tell the difference, I hear you say? well...) for  the last 85 
hours.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald 
Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec 15 11:15:09 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 10:15:09 -0800
Subject: [TR] frame paint
In-Reply-To: <cee.4b743702.3677eac6@aol.com>
References: <cee.4b743702.3677eac6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <03dd01c95ee1$115d75c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> His job was to
> carefully
>  paint the entire underside of the car and the inside of the fender wells
> using  all the used motor oil.

Including the rear springs no doubt, as per the factory workshop manual!

One of the few areas where the factory automatic system doesn't cover very
well.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec 15 11:22:42 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 10:22:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] Tr3 rare parts
In-Reply-To: <316782.54457.qm@web57806.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <316782.54457.qm@web57806.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <03e701c95ee2$1f606280$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

Somewhere in my parts bin, I have an electronic ignition module that was
apparently purpose-made for the TR3.  I've never seen another one like it,
but it looks to be professionally made.  The angles and size are just right
for it to fit into the corner where the brace joins the suspension tower on
a TR3; which is where I found it.

I also have an original Judson supercharger designed for the TR3, including
the glass jar for the Marvel Mystery Oiler.  No, Larry, it's still not for
sale <G>
In fact, I might just decide to try it out on the project TR3, if it turns
out to still have 83mm liners in it.

Randall

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Dec 15 13:12:47 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:12:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr3 rare parts
References: <316782.54457.qm@web57806.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<03e701c95ee2$1f606280$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <007601c95ef1$81251470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>

A new pair of TR3 vertical links! Probably to be thrown in the dumpster by 
my widow when the time comes. I keep intending to identify this stuff!


EW. 

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Dec 15 13:37:27 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 20:37:27 +0000
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <121520082037.19327.4946C007000DDD6100004B7F22165279669D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Michael <tr3a at comcast.net>
>    LOL! Hi, Dave! Some things never change. Your sense of humour is STILL
>    warped!
>    Hey, you still painting wheel wells with Krylon? ;)

Heck, I painted a Lotus BODY with Krylon.  Did a lousy job, too.   Drove it anyway:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/71582590/

I bet Rob has it looking much better already.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Dec 15 15:05:14 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 17:05:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] frame paint
References: <cee.4b743702.3677eac6@aol.com>
	<03dd01c95ee1$115d75c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <D454F5B293AE48569DEE8A1C7BD09E41@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Coil springs as well as leaf springs are P/Ced,  "FT"
========================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] frame paint


>> His job was to
>> carefully
>>  paint the entire underside of the car and the inside of the fender wells
>> using  all the used motor oil.
>
> Including the rear springs no doubt, as per the factory workshop manual!
>
> One of the few areas where the factory automatic system doesn't cover very
> well.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3a at comcast.net  Mon Dec 15 16:00:20 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 18:00:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] frame paint
In-Reply-To: <d10.3f7756df.3677eca3@aol.com>
References: <d10.3f7756df.3677eca3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4946E184.3030800@comcast.net>

   Hello,  Andy.  Long  time,  huh?  Welcome  back  from  the  dark.  I'm
   just...umm...back. :)
   Fergie
   1959 TR3A
   TS53990L(O)
   ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote:

No long-term experimentation at this point, since the project is still in
its early stages, but I recently used POR's Chassis Black paint on the GT6
convertible project chassis and some related bits. We put it on with foam
brushes, and it looks great and seems pretty tough (having already bumped it  m
ore
than once with stray tools and such).

--Andy Mace  (back from the dark of the upstate NY ice storm/power outage!)

*Mrs  Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet,  it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines  Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6  vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/)

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/)

**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now.
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010
)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3a at comcast.net  Mon Dec 15 16:04:45 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 18:04:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <be0.4bd57c02.3677ef3e@aol.com>
References: <be0.4bd57c02.3677ef3e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4946E28D.4050200@comcast.net>

   I  guess  I  need  to  read ALL the new posts before I reply to ANY of
   them. Ah well...as is appropriate for a TR forum...I'm RUSTY!! :)
   Still doing Heralds, I see.
   ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote:

   In  a  message  dated  12/13/2008  1:21:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
   tr3a at comcast.net writes:

         Thanks,  Bill! I just took a quick look in the archives and saw
     that a
         lot   of  old  friends  still  hang out here! Fred Thomas, Brad
     Kahler,
         LeviLevi   :),  Randall,  Bob  Danielson  and of course, my M-F
     tractor
        "partner"...Dave Massey! And more, I'm sure. Cool!....

   ==AM==

   I'm  still here as well, Michael. Let me be one of the last to welcome
   you  back  to  the  list. Nothing personal; it's just that I'm only an
   hour  or so back after the upstate NY ice storm/power outage that left
   me in the dark (oh, how could you tell the difference, I hear you say?
   well...) for the last 85 hours.

   --Andy Mace
   *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
   *Man:  Well,  no  ...  It's  not so much of a jet, it's more your, er,
   Triumph Herald engine with wings.
   -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
   Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
   Register: http://www.vtr.org
   Check  out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
   Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us
     _________________________________________________________________

   Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites
   in one place. Try it now.

From tr3a at comcast.net  Mon Dec 15 16:07:47 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 18:07:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] frame paint
In-Reply-To: <D454F5B293AE48569DEE8A1C7BD09E41@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <cee.4b743702.3677eac6@aol.com>
	<03dd01c95ee1$115d75c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<D454F5B293AE48569DEE8A1C7BD09E41@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <4946E343.2090205@comcast.net>

   Now THERE'S a shock! Fred, I heard you PC'd your TIRES!!
   FRED E THOMAS wrote:

     Coil springs as well as leaf springs are P/Ced,  "FT"
     ===================================================================
     =====================================
     ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
     To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
     Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 1:15 PM
     Subject: Re: [TR] frame paint

     His job was to
     carefully
      paint the entire underside of the car and the inside of the fender
     wells
     using  all the used motor oil.

     Including  the  rear  springs no doubt, as per the factory workshop
     manual!
     One  of  the  few  areas where the factory automatic system doesn't
     cover very
     well.
     Randall
     _______________________________________________
     Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
     This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
     http://www.vtr.org
     Triumphs at autox.team.net
     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
     You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
     http://www.team.net/archive

     _______________________________________________
     Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
     This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
     http://www.vtr.org
     Triumphs at autox.team.net
     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
     You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net
     http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec 15 16:36:04 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:36:04 -0800
Subject: [TR] "Best" Nut to use
In-Reply-To: <BAY109-W16A64107F275BB5F49CBDBA5F70@phx.gbl>
References: <344B9FD1C0D5437586669E131FA1A9A7@BOBSNEWPC><20081214222735.SQMP29496.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<BAY109-W16A64107F275BB5F49CBDBA5F70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0dfd01c95f0d$e5d8e420$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

John Herrera wrote:
> 
> A good cross-thread beats a safety any day!

John, I assume this is a joke, but I still don't understand your point.

These nuts do not cause a cross-thread; in fact one of the things I like
about them is that they turn freely at first so I can be sure they are NOT
cross-threaded.

And while safety wire or a cotter pin might be superior as far as locking,
the tight quarters involved would make using them almost impossible.  They
also usually involve some level of compromise in clamping force, which I
feel is very important in these joints.

Randall

From tr3a at comcast.net  Mon Dec 15 16:52:39 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 18:52:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <121520082037.19327.4946C007000DDD6100004B7F22165279669D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <121520082037.19327.4946C007000DDD6100004B7F22165279669D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4946EDC7.5070903@comcast.net>

   Interesting you should mention that. I got curious a few years ago and
   wondered  how  Krylon  would  look.  Had a spare TR3 door and a can of
   Krylon  that  had  to be 10 years old. Decided to try an experiment. I
   roughed  up  the existing paint on the door, wiped off the dust with a
   paper  towel  or  something, and sprayed it BRG (more or less). sanded
   again  and  resprayed. Then, I wet sanded with some fine paper...1000,
   then  2000  grit maybe? Can't remember. Finally, I used some polish of
   some sort on it. Was rather amazed at how it turned out. Certainly not
   perfect, but much better than I expected. Maybe it really is like Fred
   keeps  trying  to  convince me...there's nothing about a bad paint job
   that a little sandpaper won't fix! :)
   pethier at comcast.net wrote:

Heck, I painted a Lotus BODY with Krylon.  Did a lousy job, too.   Drove it any
way:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/71582590/

I bet Rob has it looking much better already.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 7
9 Caterham 7
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flic
kr.com/photos/pethier

From wmpless at iprimus.ca  Mon Dec 15 17:19:06 2008
From: wmpless at iprimus.ca (Wiard Pless)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 19:19:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Small spare tire for TR6
Message-ID: <4946F3FA.8030603@iprimus.ca>

A little while there were discussions about using these small emergency 
- dough nut - tires on Triumph cars.
I don't recall, that it was spelled out from which car the spare tire 
would be suitable for a TR6.  Would
appreciate to receive details if possible. Thanks Wiard

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec 15 17:39:16 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 16:39:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] Small spare tire for TR6
In-Reply-To: <4946F3FA.8030603@iprimus.ca>
References: <4946F3FA.8030603@iprimus.ca>
Message-ID: <000c01c95f16$bb529300$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> A little while there were discussions about using these small emergency
> - dough nut - tires on Triumph cars.
> I don't recall, that it was spelled out from which car the spare tire
> would be suitable for a TR6.  Would
> appreciate to receive details if possible. 

Me too.  I wasn't able to find a wheel that would both fit the studs and
clear the front calipers (on a TR3A), so wound up using a stock TR3 wheel
(which would also fit a TR6), with a "compact spare" tire mounted on it.
T135D15 as I recall ($10 from the local junkyard, including the wheel that
didn't fit).

Although significantly shorter than the stock tires, it should still work OK
for temporary use at low speeds.

(I drove about 100 miles at speeds around 75 mph on mine with no problems,
but I don't necessarily recommend that <G>)

Randall

From AA00727 at aol.com  Mon Dec 15 23:51:24 2008
From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 01:51:24 EST
Subject: [TR] Avon Tr-3
Message-ID: <cf2.4929c508.3678a9ec@aol.com>

I have one of those Avon TR-3 bottles too. An unusual bargain on  Ebay. In 
the box, full bottle, 98 cents and no charge for shipping. Can't leave  much of 
a profit margin. Actually still has a very nice aroma, like driving  through 
the WI country side with the top down when the lilacs are in bloom. 
 
Gary B

**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 16 05:46:58 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 07:46:58 EST
Subject: [TR] Avon Tr-3
Message-ID: <d2c.42a39902.3678fd42@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/16/2008 12:51:15 AM Central Standard Time, 
AA00727 at aol.com writes: 
> Actually still has a very nice aroma, like driving  through 
> the WI country side with the top down when the lilacs are in bloom.

So, it smells like dairy farms?

Dave

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Tue Dec 16 06:17:46 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 08:17:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ever ask your child what car they want?
Message-ID: <D522124B-B763-43D3-B0A5-62078DB5F1A0@mindspring.com>

No, not a 16 year old.  My wife called me after dropping the kids off  
at school, and they played a game on the way.  She asked them if they  
could have one car, what would it be?  My daughter responded to the  
singular request by naming four cars.  When Catherine reminded her  
that she had only asked for one car, she said "why not, we have four  
cars."  Here were the responses from youngest to oldest.

Amalie (6):  		TR6, 911, Trooper and a Bug - the first three have  
inhabited the driveway at one time or another
Davis (8):  		TR8,  I didn't know he even knew what a TR8 was
Nathan (10): 		Spitfire and a Mustang	-	I hope an older one

There's hope for the younger generation yet.

Ashford Little
'70 TR6

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Dec 16 07:43:20 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 14:43:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <121620081443.6917.4947BE88000B2CD700001B0522120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

[this is from Michael <tr3a at comcast.net>
Michael, you need to take care not to send things as attachments.  Attachments are stripped by the software at team.net.
============================
Interesting you should mention that. I got curious a few years ago and wondered how Krylon would look. Had a spare TR3 door and a can of Krylon that had to be 10 years old. Decided to try an experiment. I roughed up the existing paint on the door, wiped off the dust with a paper towel or something, and sprayed it BRG (more or less). sanded again and resprayed. Then, I wet sanded with some fine paper...1000, then 2000 grit maybe? Can't remember. Finally, I used some polish of some sort on it. Was rather amazed at how it turned out. Certainly not perfect, but much better than I expected. Maybe it really is like Fred keeps trying to convince me...there's nothing about a bad paint job that a little sandpaper won't fix! :)

pethier at comcast.net wrote:

>Heck, I painted a Lotus BODY with Krylon.  Did a lousy job, too.   Drove it anyway:
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/71582590/

>I bet Rob has it looking much better already.

From tr3a at comcast.net  Tue Dec 16 07:55:18 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 09:55:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <121620081443.6917.4947BE88000B2CD700001B0522120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <121620081443.6917.4947BE88000B2CD700001B0522120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4947C156.5080608@comcast.net>

   Huh?  I  didn't  think I sent attachment. All I did was reply...as far
   as I know anyway.
   pethier at comcast.net wrote:

[this is from Michael <tr3a at comcast.net>
Michael, you need to take care not to send things as attachments.  Attachments
are stripped by the software at team.net.
============================
Interesting you should mention that. I got curious a few years ago and wondered
 how Krylon would look. Had a spare TR3 door and a can of Krylon that had to be
 10 years old. Decided to try an experiment. I roughed up the existing paint on
 the door, wiped off the dust with a paper towel or something, and sprayed it B
RG (more or less). sanded again and resprayed. Then, I wet sanded with some fin
e paper...1000, then 2000 grit maybe? Can't remember. Finally, I used some poli
sh of some sort on it. Was rather amazed at how it turned out. Certainly not pe
rfect, but much better than I expected. Maybe it really is like Fred keeps tryi
ng to convince me...there's nothing about a bad paint job that a little sandpap
er won't fix! :)

pethier at comcast.net wrote:

Heck, I painted a Lotus BODY with Krylon.  Did a lousy job, too.   Drove it any
way:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/71582590/

I bet Rob has it looking much better already.

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 16 08:33:49 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 10:33:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] "Best" Nut to use
In-Reply-To: <0dfd01c95f0d$e5d8e420$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <344B9FD1C0D5437586669E131FA1A9A7@BOBSNEWPC><20081214222735.SQMP29496.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<BAY109-W16A64107F275BB5F49CBDBA5F70@phx.gbl> 
	<0dfd01c95f0d$e5d8e420$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W45578D3F1307977D91FD7A5F50@phx.gbl>

> John Herrera wrote:> > > > A good cross-thread beats a safety any day!> >
John, I assume this is a joke, but I still don't understand your point.

You're right, Randall; it's a very old aircraft mechanic's joke.

John

From lherault at bu.edu  Tue Dec 16 08:54:47 2008
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 10:54:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ever ask your child what car they want?
Message-ID: <004c01c95f96$9f4d82c0$6fd6299b@ad.bu.edu>

My Daughter, Elise, told me a few years ago that she would like a Lotus
Elise.  Donations are gratefully accepted.

Ron L

From Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com  Tue Dec 16 08:58:52 2008
From: Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com (Jim Holmgren)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 10:58:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ever ask your child what car they want?
In-Reply-To: <004c01c95f96$9f4d82c0$6fd6299b@ad.bu.edu>
References: <004c01c95f96$9f4d82c0$6fd6299b@ad.bu.edu>
Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106DB1697B3@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>

Perhaps you should have named her "Civic" instead.

(Thank you...thank you....I'll be here all week - try the veal!)


Jim
NASS #302
NASS Club Secretary
'75 Spitfire 1500
'77 Spitfire 1500
'68 Spitfire Mk3
www.littlebluespitfire.com
York, PA



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron L
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 10:55 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Ever ask your child what car they want?

My Daughter, Elise, told me a few years ago that she would like a Lotus
Elise.  Donations are gratefully accepted.

Ron L

The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s)
or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or
privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use
of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or
entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this
email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email
from any computer.

From tr3a at comcast.net  Tue Dec 16 09:12:54 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 11:12:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <4947C156.5080608@comcast.net>
References: <121620081443.6917.4947BE88000B2CD700001B0522120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<4947C156.5080608@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4947D386.3030700@comcast.net>

   Yet another test. Hope this is better.
   Michael wrote:

   Huh?  I  didn't  think I sent attachment. All I did was reply...as far
   as I know anyway.
   pethier at comcast.net wrote:

[this is from Michael <tr3a at comcast.net>
Michael, you need to take care not to send things as attachments.  Attachments
are stripped by the software at team.net.
============================
Interesting you should mention that. I got curious a few years ago and wondered
 how Krylon would look. Had a spare TR3 door and a can of Krylon that had to be
 10 years old. Decided to try an experiment. I roughed up the existing paint on
 the door, wiped off the dust with a paper towel or something, and sprayed it B
RG (more or less). sanded again and resprayed. Then, I wet sanded with some fin
e paper...1000, then 2000 grit maybe? Can't remember. Finally, I used some poli
sh of some sort on it. Was rather amazed at how it turned out. Certainly not pe
rfect, but much better than I expected. Maybe it really is like Fred keeps tryi
ng to convince me...there's nothing about a bad paint job that a little sandpap
er won't fix! :)

pethier at comcast.net wrote:

Heck, I painted a Lotus BODY with Krylon.  Did a lousy job, too.   Drove it any
way:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/71582590/

I bet Rob has it looking much better already.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3a at comcast.net  Tue Dec 16 11:07:54 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 13:07:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] for phil
Message-ID: <4947EE7A.3030203@comcast.net>

How's this? Thanks!!

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Tue Dec 16 11:11:29 2008
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 19:11:29 +0100
Subject: [TR] "Best" Nut to use
References: <344B9FD1C0D5437586669E131FA1A9A7@BOBSNEWPC><20081214222735.SQMP29496.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall><BAY109-W16A64107F275BB5F49CBDBA5F70@phx.gbl>
	<0dfd01c95f0d$e5d8e420$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<BLU143-W45578D3F1307977D91FD7A5F50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <86217502FE6F434FBAAD0443A8838187@Study>

How old is a very old aircraft mechanic?

David Brister.

-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 5.7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 17243 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Tue Dec 16 11:21:35 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 13:21:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Avon TR-3
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5457.1229441639.3542.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OFE3FECC50.2C985C1B-ON85257521.0064B825-85257521.0064DC5A@exxonmobil.com>

No, it smells like sh..., crap     :-)

Mark

>>In a message dated 12/16/2008 12:51:15 AM Central Standard Time,
>>AA00727 at aol.com writes:
>> Actually still has a very nice aroma, like driving  through
>> the WI country side with the top down when the lilacs are in bloom.
>
>So, it smells like dairy farms?
>
>Dave

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Tue Dec 16 11:29:53 2008
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 13:29:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] "Best" Nut to use
In-Reply-To: <86217502FE6F434FBAAD0443A8838187@Study>
Message-ID: <8725856A96AD41E099BF535DF122877E@Desktop>

Ask JR he's real OLD

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Brister
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 1:11 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] "Best" Nut to use

How old is a very old aircraft mechanic?

David Brister.

-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 5.7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 17243 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 16 11:36:44 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 13:36:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] "Best" Nut to use
In-Reply-To: <86217502FE6F434FBAAD0443A8838187@Study>
References: <344B9FD1C0D5437586669E131FA1A9A7@BOBSNEWPC><20081214222735.SQMP29496.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall><BAY109-W16A64107F275BB5F49CBDBA5F70@phx.gbl>
	<0dfd01c95f0d$e5d8e420$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<BLU143-W45578D3F1307977D91FD7A5F50@phx.gbl> 
	<86217502FE6F434FBAAD0443A8838187@Study>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W3713BAB8321867275985EAA5F50@phx.gbl>

> How old is a very old aircraft mechanic?> > David Brister.

So old that he can't think of a snappy comeback!

J.R.

From L1J1S at aol.com  Tue Dec 16 14:25:35 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 16:25:35 EST
Subject: [TR] tr avon bottle
Message-ID: <d04.48c2a9da.367976cf@aol.com>

hey guys, just picked up one of those avon tr3 with the aftershave. never  
been opened. gotta splurge a little in with the bad economy. larry  schwartz
**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From cm.sherman at verizon.net  Tue Dec 16 17:19:38 2008
From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 18:19:38 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Got vote
Message-ID: <1954312871.16255821229473178492.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

Sorry to bomb the list, but I thought I would send this small reminder 
asking those to vote for my Triumph Italia again... like voting in 
Chicago, Early and often. Really, you ought to vote every day - its the 
car with the most votes that wins!

My apologies for being so persistent, but many individuals didn't 
realize that you should vote many times - I know its a pain.


http://collectiblecars.nytimes.com/Contest/Vote.asp#COL802181

Thanks again,
Happy Holidays
Corey Sherman
cm.sherman at verzion.net

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue Dec 16 17:42:36 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 17:42:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] "Best" Nut to use
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1229454002.8100.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1229454002.8100.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8591BBFB-DAAE-4228-9149-14A81F390CFC@telus.net>

Give him time John. The grease gets thick up there and slows things  
down a notch or two.


On 16-Dec-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: John Herrera <jrherrera90 at hotmail.com>
> Date: December 16, 2008 11:36:44 AM MST (CA)
> To: <david.brister at wanadoo.fr>, Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] "Best" Nut to use
>
>
>> How old is a very old aircraft mechanic?> > David Brister.
>
> So old that he can't think of a snappy comeback!
>
> J.R

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 16 18:27:19 2008
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 19:27:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] Got vote
In-Reply-To: <1954312871.16255821229473178492.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>
References: <1954312871.16255821229473178492.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W502C5DF9660AD92C3FC142E1F20@phx.gbl>

Being from Illinois I have to ask what you will give me for my support? %^)
Everything I know I learned from Rod.Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B
TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves!

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 16 18:41:05 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 20:41:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 & TR6 question
Message-ID: <BAY123-W20B0A6046BC559D4831857BAF20@phx.gbl>

Does anybody have both a TR4 and a TR6 in their garage they would be willing
to take a look at for me? By looking at two frames it appears that the
steering rack and cross tube are mounted farther forward in a TR6 than on a
TR4. I am going to guess that this is to clear those extra two big round holes
in the TR6 block. I am looking for confirmation on that. I also need to
determine what issues I might run into by moving the rack forward in the TR4.
It worked in the TR250 so it's somehow possible (I think). Anybody have time
to take a peek for me and tell me what you see?

Thanks,
Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_12
2008

From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Dec 16 19:17:31 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 21:17:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 & TR6 question
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W20B0A6046BC559D4831857BAF20@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W20B0A6046BC559D4831857BAF20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4948613B.2070200@snet.net>

I bet if you wrote to Tony Vigliotti at RATCO, he could provide you with 
exact measurements, as he makes frames for most of the TR cars.  John 
Mitchell  76 TR6

marty sukey wrote:
> Does anybody have both a TR4 and a TR6 in their garage they would be willing
> to take a look at for me? By looking at two frames it appears that the
> steering rack and cross tube are mounted farther forward in a TR6 than on a
> TR4. I am going to guess that this is to clear those extra two big round holes
> in the TR6 block. I am looking for confirmation on that. I also need to
> determine what issues I might run into by moving the rack forward in the TR4.
> It worked in the TR250 so it's somehow possible (I think). Anybody have time
> to take a peek for me and tell me what you see?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty
>
> _

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 16 19:23:39 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 21:23:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 & TR6 question
In-Reply-To: <4948613B.2070200@snet.net>
References: <BAY123-W20B0A6046BC559D4831857BAF20@phx.gbl>
	<4948613B.2070200@snet.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W53DA0E9FCDEFE5B0AF7A4ABAF20@phx.gbl>

Thanks John.  Measurements aren't really the issue. I can get them off the
frames I am working on. The problem is I don't have an assembled TR4 tub to
see what I am going to run into when I move things forward.

Marty

> Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 21:17:31 -0500
> From: jmitch at snet.net
> To: trmarty at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 & TR6 question
>
> I bet if you wrote to Tony Vigliotti at RATCO, he could provide you with
> exact measurements, as he makes frames for most of the TR cars.  John
> Mitchell  76 TR6
>
> marty sukey wrote:
> > Does anybody have both a TR4 and a TR6 in their garage they would be
willing
> > to take a look at for me? By looking at two frames it appears that the
> > steering rack and cross tube are mounted farther forward in a TR6 than on
a
> > TR4. I am going to guess that this is to clear those extra two big round
holes
> > in the TR6 block. I am looking for confirmation on that. I also need to
> > determine what issues I might run into by moving the rack forward in the
TR4.
> > It worked in the TR250 so it's somehow possible (I think). Anybody have
time
> > to take a peek for me and tell me what you see?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Marty
> >
> > _
> >

_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_12
2008

From wbmcleod at gmail.com  Tue Dec 16 19:26:19 2008
From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 19:26:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 & TR6 question
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W53DA0E9FCDEFE5B0AF7A4ABAF20@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W20B0A6046BC559D4831857BAF20@phx.gbl>
	<4948613B.2070200@snet.net>
	<BAY123-W53DA0E9FCDEFE5B0AF7A4ABAF20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D0B572A3-6911-4F7C-AD3D-5E6E95B36EB2@gmail.com>

Why are you moving things around?
Bill

On Dec 16, 2008, at 7:23 PM, marty sukey wrote:

> Thanks John.  Measurements aren't really the issue. I can get them  
> off the
> frames I am working on. The problem is I don't have an assembled TR4  
> tub to
> see what I am going to run into when I move things forward.

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Dec 16 21:26:06 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 04:26:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 & TR6 question
Message-ID: <121720080426.12345.49487F5E0001339C0000303922120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> Does anybody have both a TR4 and a TR6 in their garage they would be willing
> to take a look at for me? By looking at two frames it appears that the
> steering rack and cross tube are mounted farther forward in a TR6 than on a
> TR4. I am going to guess that this is to clear those extra two big round holes
> in the TR6 block. I am looking for confirmation on that. I also need to
> determine what issues I might run into by moving the rack forward in the TR4.
> It worked in the TR250 so it's somehow possible (I think). Anybody have time
> to take a peek for me and tell me what you see?

Dunno how this affects your question, but I thought I'd remind you.

As I recall, the TR4 frame is way different from the TR6.  The TR4A frame is more similar to the TR6.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Dec 16 21:29:06 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 21:29:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 & TR6 question
References: <BAY123-W20B0A6046BC559D4831857BAF20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <FCCB0DC3D9F14BBE9CBB7225DDF13EF7@rolofson>

Marty,

Looks to me that the crossmember and the steering rack are pretty much the
same position in both my 6 and my TR4A.  The crossmember bolts to the same
place on the upper spring bracket on both as far as I can tell and the
steering rack is directly under the crossmember on both.

I think the 4 banger engine is just shorter....maybe they knew something was
in the works, e.g. a 6 banger engine.  Looks like the fan extension is quite a
bit shorter on the 6 than the 4A and maybe the even damper/pulley is thinner
(I couldn't get a good look at the one on the 4A...too much junk piled up) on
the 6 engine which just by eyeballing it looks like the difference would allow
for those two extra round holes.  The damper is a lot further from the
crossmember on the 4A than on the 6.

If the TR4A and the TR4 frames are different (which I can't answer) then all
of that info. doesn't apply.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: marty sukey
  To: Triumph List
  Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 6:41 PM
  Subject: [TR] TR4 & TR6 question


  Does anybody have both a TR4 and a TR6 in their garage they would be
willing
  to take a look at for me? By looking at two frames it appears that the
  steering rack and cross tube are mounted farther forward in a TR6 than on a
  TR4. I am going to guess that this is to clear those extra two big round
holes
  in the TR6 block. I am looking for confirmation on that. I also need to
  determine what issues I might run into by moving the rack forward in the
TR4.
  It worked in the TR250 so it's somehow possible (I think). Anybody have
time
  to take a peek for me and tell me what you see?

  Thanks,
  Marty

  _________________________________________________________________
  Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills.
  http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_
12
  2008
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec 16 21:55:10 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 23:55:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] GT6 gearbox progress
Message-ID: <49483FDE.30786.11C03717@localhost>

Well, I've made some progress, learned a bunch never having done this 
before.  Got the rear extension and bell housing off.  Got the input 
shaft out.  Got the reverse idler shaft out, and the layshaft.

It's been interesting trying to follow the instructions.  I'm using 
the 3-rail gearbox section of the Haynes Spitfire book.  I checked my 
Bentley manual, which is for the 1500 only.  Sinlge-rail or 3, it has 
so little detail that it would have been mostly useless.  But the 
Haynes manual doesn't quite agree with my gearbox either.  Maybe the 
GT6 box is sufficiently different, or the box changed a bit from 
early to late 3-rail versions.  For example:

The manual says to remove the top by removing the eight bolts, and 
note which is the long one.  Sure, there were eight bolts but none 
was longer.  But there are actually nine holes, one being empty.

The manual says to lift the reverse idler gear out.  But the gear 
clears neither the gear behind it on the output shaft nor the cluster 
gear.  And anyway, it is too large to come through the hole at the 
back end of the gearbox shell, which I discovered after I removed the 
reverse idler shaft.

The manual did not mention a pin bolt on the reverse idler shaft, but 
there is one.  And I thought (I'm starting to forget what it says!) 
it said there was a pin bolt holding the layshaft, but there wasn't.

There were three springs through the front of the gearbox shell, held 
in place by the bell housing and apparently exerting pressure on a 
thrust plate at the front of the layshaft.  These were not mentioned 
in the manual.  The layshaft lifted out easily from the back.  I do 
hope it will go back in as easily!  Well, all those parts went in 
once before so it can't be too hard.

So far I see nothing untoward, nothing obviously broken, no broken 
input bearing visible on casual inspection, no broken teeth.  As I 
take the various gears out I expect to see a worn bearing at least on 
something related to 2nd.  That must wait for tomorrow...

Is there anything in particular I should be looking for?  Some 
measurement that is more critical that others?  Sure is some pretty 
brass in there.

Tanks!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Tue Dec 16 22:31:59 2008
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 23:31:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 & TR6 question
In-Reply-To: <D0B572A3-6911-4F7C-AD3D-5E6E95B36EB2@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COEHIGDHIJHOCPAJBPBIEEOODFAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>

Bill wrote: 

-----Original Message-----
 
Why are you moving things around?
Bill

It's Marty.  Safe bet that is so he can go faster :)

Kg

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Dec 17 05:44:10 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 07:44:10 EST
Subject: [TR] Avon TR-3
Message-ID: <bfe.52aa4e40.367a4e1a@cs.com>

And dairy farms don't?

Dave

In a message dated 12/16/2008 12:22:20 PM Central Standard Time, 
mark.jones at exxonmobil.com writes: 
> No, it smells like sh..., crap     :-)
> 
> Mark
> 
> >>In a message dated 12/16/2008 12:51:15 AM Central Standard Time,
> >>AA00727 at aol.com writes:
> >>Actually still has a very nice aroma, like driving  through
> >>the WI country side with the top down when the lilacs are in bloom.
> >
> >So, it smells like dairy farms?
> >
> >Dave

From kentshrack at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 17 06:37:55 2008
From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 05:37:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Avon TR3
Message-ID: <306966.96132.qm@web57805.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

The contents should have the aroma of wet leather from under a tonneau mixed
with oil smoke, a bit of burnt wiring, just a touch of fresh splashed petro
and maybe a tinge of burnt clutch lining.  When I was about 7 my neighbor's
college buddy came to visit and allowed me to spend the day sitting behind the
big steering wheel of his TR3 with the drivers half of the tonneau open.  I
can still reminisce of the aroma of his car.  I put thousands of race miles on
that car in my mind that day, and I won  every race. 
 
Kent Shrack

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 17 06:40:19 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 08:40:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A to TR6 part 2
Message-ID: <BAY123-W530AE33AA214BE176CBADCBAF20@phx.gbl>

I was thinking that the differences between a TR4 and TR4A frame were all in
the back of the vehicle. I have been straightened out that that is not so, the
fronts are different also. So just a point of clarification.. it is a TR4A
frame versus a TR6 that I am doing comparison on.

Thanks,
Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_12
2008

From L1J1S at aol.com  Wed Dec 17 07:20:39 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 09:20:39 EST
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
Message-ID: <d5e.3e296fa6.367a64b7@aol.com>

hello, how does one go about telling the difference between nos and  
reproductions? for some it does not make a difference , but for others it does.  some 
venders/ sellers may tell you anything just to move the product, but in  this 
world today one must be sure and have peace of mind before purchasing  
anything.  larry schwartz
**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and 
favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010)

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Dec 17 08:18:23 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 10:18:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
In-Reply-To: <d5e.3e296fa6.367a64b7@aol.com>
References: <d5e.3e296fa6.367a64b7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CB2E71D563F3E1-1144-442@mblk-d23.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: L1J1S at aol.com










hello, how does one go about telling the difference between nos and  
reproductions? for some it does not make a difference , but for others it does.  
some 
venders/ sellers may tell you anything just to move the product, but in  this 
world today one must be sure and have peace of mind before purchasing  
anything.  

==AM==
Technically, you've got several choices. NOS is literally New Old Stock, parts that were made probably
about the time the cars were still current, by the original manufacturer (Lucas, Girling, "Stanpart" or 
"Unipart", etc.). Hopefully comparable to NOS is anything still made by the original component
manufacturer, perhaps on original tooling or certainly to (near-)original specifications. This might
cover, say, a voltage regulator made by Lucas that generally appears and functions as the original
but might be slightly different in detail so as to be usable on a number of cars.

There's also NORS: New Old Replacement Stock. This again usually dates back to when the cars were
current, but it applies to, for example, a voltage regulator branded "Harting" or a bushing kit in 
a Quentin-Hazell (sp?) box.

And there's a lot of whatever it is that's available nowadays in reproduction parts...
what our friends on the other side of the Big Pond call (appropriately) Pattern Parts. These can be 
quite good copies, re-engineered and improved based on original drawings and spec's...or they can
be passable copies that look good from 20 feet away but may take some degree of "fettling" to even
begin to fit and function as an original.

Frankly, the best way to tell a true NOS part is to look at the packaging (original Stanpart or
Lucas box or other container) and look for the original manufacturer's "branding" on the part itself.
An original suspension bushing is likely to have the "Metalastik" name molded in, and an original
Lucas generator will have the Lucas name and a date code as well as other info.

Does all that help?


 


--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)
 
Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 17 11:10:35 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 10:10:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
In-Reply-To: <d5e.3e296fa6.367a64b7@aol.com>
References: <d5e.3e296fa6.367a64b7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <014401c96072$c2d83fa0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> hello, how does one go about telling the difference between nos and
> reproductions? 

Perhaps a more important question is why.  The original parts were not
particularly high quality anyway; defective new parts were even more a fact
of life in the 50s, 60s and 70s than they are today, since many of the
implied warranty laws had not yet been passed.  And 40-50 years of storage
is not going to improve the parts any.

In some cases, there is a good reason the part was left on the shelf.  I've
seen more than one that on close examination showed the scars from having
been installed and promptly removed, apparently because a defect was found.

I see people buying NOS brake seals, and have to wonder what they plan to do
with them.  NOS is fine for a car that will only be driven on and off a
trailer (or not at all); but it's not something I would want to trust my
life with.

Randall

From gtwincams at gmail.com  Wed Dec 17 11:38:18 2008
From: gtwincams at gmail.com (Greg Tatarian)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 10:38:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
In-Reply-To: <014401c96072$c2d83fa0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <d5e.3e296fa6.367a64b7@aol.com>
	<014401c96072$c2d83fa0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <4949471A.9030903@gmail.com>

> And 40-50 years of storage
> is not going to improve the parts any.
>
>   
That's a good point, particularly with rubber parts, but not really 
applicable with metal parts such as clutch covers, or lenses, cables, 
etc. that were stored properly and not damaged as you describe below.
> In some cases, there is a good reason the part was left on the shelf.  I've
> seen more than one that on close examination showed the scars from having
> been installed and promptly removed, apparently because a defect was found.
>
> I see people buying NOS brake seals, and have to wonder what they plan to do
> with them.  NOS is fine for a car that will only be driven on and off a
> trailer (or not at all); but it's not something I would want to trust my
> life with.
>
>   
Another good point. I instruct buyers to replace seals on the NOS 
hydraulic cylinders I'm selling even if they look good, and I price the 
parts accordingly. If you are buying NOS hydraulics, pay a price that 
makes it worthwhile to rebuild the unit, but don't rely on old seals! 
Also make sure the unit does not have a rusty bore or piston before 
purchasing, or get a guarantee from the seller. Some NOS master 
cylinders are out of production, so the NOS or used market is all that's 
left to us, and those parts can be quite pricey.

Greg Tatarian
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as gtwincams at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cm.sherman at verizon.net  Wed Dec 17 11:49:22 2008
From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (cm.sherman at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 18:49:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
Message-ID: <2098147599-1229539729-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1019142677-@bxe351.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I believe the question is not WHAT is the difference, but rather HOW can you tell? This can be a challenge depending on the part and supplier source. 

Few reputable dealers claim to have NOS - and when they do, they are fairly responsible about stating so with "Made in" labels. Then there is eBay, where all sorts of claims run about. Some attempt to place repro product in original wrappers and boxes. The caveat is buyer beware!

Remember that Californian TR5 which was a fake on eBay a few years back... Fraud comes in small and large. 

I'm no expert, but few NOS parts age well (given 40 years): plastic often dulls or yellows, rubber degrades and metal tarnishes.  Some parts look slightly off in molds, form, exact color and their sub components. Then again suppliers/mfgrs varied back then too. 

The best way is to know for certain is to know your supplier. Nowadays fakes are so good, its hard to tell. Fortunately the parts for TRs are not as pricy as Aston Martins and Ferraris, so the market has not been proliferated with copies. 

Corey Sherman
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Dec 17 12:01:43 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 12:01:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
In-Reply-To: <2098147599-1229539729-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1019142677-@bxe351.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <2098147599-1229539729-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1019142677-@bxe351.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <6F3342C663B2498E91151A200D655DC2@sniffer>

Agree, how do you tell?  I have two bumpers from my 58 & 59, just took to
chrome shop, they look identical but I could not tell you if they are both
Original or Repro.   Some have said the gauge of steel is thinner on the
repro, but what are the correct thicknesses?

Now as for the gravel guards, they fit horribly and they are new from TRF...
No question as to their heritage!

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of cm.sherman at verizon.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 11:49 AM
To: Andrew Mace; triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net; L1J1S at aol.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.

I believe the question is not WHAT is the difference, but rather HOW can you
tell? This can be a challenge depending on the part and supplier source. 

Few reputable dealers claim to have NOS - and when they do, they are fairly
responsible about stating so with "Made in" labels. Then there is eBay,
where all sorts of claims run about. Some attempt to place repro product in
original wrappers and boxes. The caveat is buyer beware!

Remember that Californian TR5 which was a fake on eBay a few years back...
Fraud comes in small and large. 

I'm no expert, but few NOS parts age well (given 40 years): plastic often
dulls or yellows, rubber degrades and metal tarnishes.  Some parts look
slightly off in molds, form, exact color and their sub components. Then
again suppliers/mfgrs varied back then too. 

The best way is to know for certain is to know your supplier. Nowadays fakes
are so good, its hard to tell. Fortunately the parts for TRs are not as
pricy as Aston Martins and Ferraris, so the market has not been proliferated
with copies. 

Corey Sherman
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.18/1852 - Release Date: 12/17/2008
8:31 AM

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Dec 17 12:11:56 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 19:11:56 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A to TR6 part 2
Message-ID: <121720081911.979.49494EFC000C5A3E000003D322165384969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> it is a TR4A
> frame versus a TR6 that I am doing comparison on.

Now we are getting somewhere.  You will probably find that this is a good thing for you.  I am told that the differences between the TR4A and TR6 frames are relatively minor.

Now I'm out of here, because I have a TR4 and should be of no further use in this discussion.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 17 12:14:37 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 11:14:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
In-Reply-To: <4949471A.9030903@gmail.com>
References: <d5e.3e296fa6.367a64b7@aol.com><014401c96072$c2d83fa0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<4949471A.9030903@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <015701c9607b$b4d435e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> That's a good point, particularly with rubber parts, but not really
> applicable with metal parts such as clutch covers, or lenses, cables, etc.
> that were stored properly and not damaged as you describe below.

I disagree.  Springs such as those found in clutch covers sometimes "take a
set" when stored under tension.  Pivot points inside the cover were
originally lubricated, but the lube has dried up by now.

Glass lenses are usually OK, as long as they were not coated or colored; but
plastic ones frequently degrade with time, turning both cloudy and brittle.
Somewhere, I have an original amber lens where the amber coloring flaked off
before it was removed from the box.  US-spec windshields have plastic inside
them that can degrade with time.

Cables were frequently pre-lubricated by the factory, and the lubrication
dries out over time, so at the very least they need to be disassembled,
cleaned of the old dried lubrication, and relubricated.  Many of them also
have plastic components (outer jackets, inner stops) that can degrade over
time.

Bearings or any other moving part can also have issues with lubrication
drying up; sometimes it even turns to a sandy grit!  In some cases, it's not
practical to disassemble and clean them; but leaving the grit behind will
shorten the life.

> If you are buying NOS hydraulics, pay a price that
> makes it worthwhile to rebuild the unit, but don't rely on old seals!
> Also make sure the unit does not have a rusty bore or piston before
> purchasing, or get a guarantee from the seller. 

That I agree with!

I'm not saying NOS parts are bad, only that one should not assume they are
good.  Even the factory made bad parts sometimes.

Randall

From gtwincams at gmail.com  Wed Dec 17 14:27:30 2008
From: gtwincams at gmail.com (Greg Tatarian)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 13:27:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
In-Reply-To: <015701c9607b$b4d435e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <d5e.3e296fa6.367a64b7@aol.com><014401c96072$c2d83fa0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<4949471A.9030903@gmail.com>
	<015701c9607b$b4d435e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <49496EC2.3010105@gmail.com>

I think the main point here is that not all NOS parts are good, nor are 
they all bad. One must consider the type of material, availability, 
condition, price, etc. Parts stored 10 years will likely be in far 
better shape than parts stored 30-40 years, but much of what is sold now 
is from 10-20 years old, from what I have seen. The storage conditions 
have a very big influence on the condition of the parts; many are good, 
many are not.

The original question was how to tell the difference, and the answer is; 
ask first, and also get to know what parts are available new, which are 
not, and go from there. If a buyer doesn't know much about how to 
discern condition of an NOS part either OEM or reproduction, they should 
consider buying new repros, or buy from a reputable seller. By the way, 
most of the parts in our cars ARE old, which is why we buy our cars!

Cheers, and happy motoring.
Greg Tatarian


Randall wrote:
>> That's a good point, particularly with rubber parts, but not really
>> applicable with metal parts such as clutch covers, or lenses, cables, etc.
>> that were stored properly and not damaged as you describe below.
>>     
>
> I disagree.  Springs such as those found in clutch covers sometimes "take a
> set" when stored under tension.  Pivot points inside the cover were
> originally lubricated, but the lube has dried up by now.
>
> Glass lenses are usually OK, as long as they were not coated or colored; but
> plastic ones frequently degrade with time, turning both cloudy and brittle.
> Somewhere, I have an original amber lens where the amber coloring flaked off
> before it was removed from the box.  US-spec windshields have plastic inside
> them that can degrade with time.
>
> Cables were frequently pre-lubricated by the factory, and the lubrication
> dries out over time, so at the very least they need to be disassembled,
> cleaned of the old dried lubrication, and relubricated.  Many of them also
> have plastic components (outer jackets, inner stops) that can degrade over
> time.
>
> Bearings or any other moving part can also have issues with lubrication
> drying up; sometimes it even turns to a sandy grit!  In some cases, it's not
> practical to disassemble and clean them; but leaving the grit behind will
> shorten the life.
>
>   
>> If you are buying NOS hydraulics, pay a price that
>> makes it worthwhile to rebuild the unit, but don't rely on old seals!
>> Also make sure the unit does not have a rusty bore or piston before
>> purchasing, or get a guarantee from the seller. 
>>     
>
> That I agree with!
>
> I'm not saying NOS parts are bad, only that one should not assume they are
> good.  Even the factory made bad parts sometimes.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as gtwincams at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Wed Dec 17 14:37:28 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 16:37:28 EST
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
Message-ID: <cea.49b3747f.367acb18@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/17/2008 1:11:09 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

And 40-50 years of storage
is not going to improve the parts  any.

In some cases, there is a good reason the part was left on the  shelf.  I've
seen more than one that on close examination showed the  scars from having
been installed and promptly removed, apparently because a  defect was found.



This is a very good point that Randall has made here. I will give you an  
example.  I recently purchased a NOS GT6+ Rev Counter for my 70  GT6+. $150 or so 
on ebay. It was appealing because all the red  fluorescent markings were 
bright and clear.  The counter being replaced was  very functional but lacking 
that new and fresh look.  After some struggling  under the dash I finally 
completed the switch.  OK, as I fired her up the  counter made one jump and settled 
in at Zero.  OH!  Seems the NOS unit  was frozen and proceeded to break my 
previously perfectly fine cable so  now I needed to replace that before putting 
the original Rev Counter back  in, buyer must beware, old stuff goes bad on the 
self.
Yikes,
Darrell 
 
 
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 17 14:39:53 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 13:39:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
In-Reply-To: <49496EC2.3010105@gmail.com>
References: <d5e.3e296fa6.367a64b7@aol.com><014401c96072$c2d83fa0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<4949471A.9030903@gmail.com>
	<015701c9607b$b4d435e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<49496EC2.3010105@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01c401c9608f$ff908160$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I think the main point here is that not all NOS parts are good, nor are
> they all bad. 

Exactly my point.  The "NOS" appellation is no guarantee of part quality,
good or bad.

Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Dec 17 14:42:53 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:42:53 -0000
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
References: <d5e.3e296fa6.367a64b7@aol.com><014401c96072$c2d83fa0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><4949471A.9030903@gmail.com><015701c9607b$b4d435e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<49496EC2.3010105@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FD2C6D1FACF342C79F60B37CA7ED81F5@Bevan>

Being a 'partsman' in a past life, I'd like to add a point here on identities. Stanpart branded 
stuff really is old but for the UK at least and certainly while Triumphs were still being made, the 
whole BL group slowly moved over to UniPart branding on its parts for all makes including Morris 
Garages products. I think Jaguar may have been the exception - but then Sir William Lyons never 
liked to follow the herd. So if anyone comes across UniPart boxes with an Alpha alpha alpha digit 
digit digit number, its likely to be NQSOOS (not quite so old old stock)

Jonmac 

From trglory at verizon.net  Wed Dec 17 14:54:18 2008
From: trglory at verizon.net (Jos Laurito)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 16:54:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
In-Reply-To: <FD2C6D1FACF342C79F60B37CA7ED81F5@Bevan>
Message-ID: <CEC425DDFBBC436DBB87022DDDD779E4@newbox>

Jon;

Do you have any guess as to when the UniPart transition was made for
Triumph? The reason I ask is that I have UniPart driving lights on my '75
TR6 ("UniPart" is moulded in the lens) and was wondering if they were
original to the car, either factory installed or dealer installed.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 4:43 PM
To: Greg Tatarian; Randall
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.

Being a 'partsman' in a past life, I'd like to add a point here on
identities. Stanpart branded 
stuff really is old but for the UK at least and certainly while Triumphs
were still being made, the 
whole BL group slowly moved over to UniPart branding on its parts for all
makes including Morris 
Garages products. I think Jaguar may have been the exception - but then Sir
William Lyons never 
liked to follow the herd. So if anyone comes across UniPart boxes with an
Alpha alpha alpha digit 
digit digit number, its likely to be NQSOOS (not quite so old old stock)

Jonmac 
_______________________________________________

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 17 15:31:29 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 14:31:29 -0800
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
In-Reply-To: <FD2C6D1FACF342C79F60B37CA7ED81F5@Bevan>
References: <d5e.3e296fa6.367a64b7@aol.com><014401c96072$c2d83fa0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><4949471A.9030903@gmail.com><015701c9607b$b4d435e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<49496EC2.3010105@gmail.com> <FD2C6D1FACF342C79F60B37CA7ED81F5@Bevan>
Message-ID: <01d701c96097$354fa4f0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> So if anyone comes across UniPart boxes with an
> Alpha alpha alpha digit
> digit digit number, its likely to be NQSOOS (not quite so old old stock)

Indeed, some parts are still available new with the UniPart brand name.
http://tinyurl.com/4rxn27

Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Dec 17 16:24:20 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 23:24:20 -0000
Subject: [TR] tr nos vs. repros.
References: <CEC425DDFBBC436DBB87022DDDD779E4@newbox>
Message-ID: <C62F0B8469D247BFA43C0A112FF0CE38@Bevan>

Hi, Joe

> Do you have any guess as to when the UniPart transition was made for
> Triumph? The reason I ask is that I have UniPart driving lights on my '75
> TR6 ("UniPart" is moulded in the lens) and was wondering if they were
> original to the car, either factory installed or dealer installed.

You mean separate lamps of the badge bar type? Probably dealer installed as an accessory. If 
headlamps, probably another replacement as sealed beams didn't last all that long - at least mine 
never did. Does this help, a bit?

Jonmac

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed Dec 17 19:45:42 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:45:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 & TR6 question
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W20B0A6046BC559D4831857BAF20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEMPFDAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Marty,
I can answer this question!!!

When I bought my TR4A the previous owner had told me that the frame was
already restored by the guy HE bought it from so that was why it was such a
good deal..
Well, after I bought it I noticed that the big bolt coming out of the
crankshaft in the front of the engine was about 1/8" above the steering
rack. (I should have brought a knowledgeable TR guy with me to look at the
car but I digress....)
I later found out (from a knowledgeable TR guy) that the nicely painted
frame under my TR4A was in fact a TR-250 frame which was totally useless in
a TR4A.
I ended up parting out that car and starting over..
If you go to my Triumph web page there are pictures of what I mean under "My
first TR4A".

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Thu Dec 18 13:05:48 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 15:05:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] control head wire sizes?
Message-ID: <005801c9614c$06aefd70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Due to my clumseness, I have ruined 2-3 control head harnesses.  I am now
attempting to install a "homemade" harness consisting of 3 strands of 16 ga.
(turn signal) wire and 1 strand of 14 ga. (horn) wire.  I think these wire
sizes are consistant with the original wire sizes.

Does anyone think I ought to question this procedure?

Thanks,  Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 5.7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Thu Dec 18 14:44:23 2008
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 13:44:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Split Steering Column
Message-ID: <193674.10662.qm@web81305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Lister's, I am looking for a "split" upper steering column non adjustable type
(inner and outer) with hollow inner, don't need stator, to complete my
conversion to rack and pinion steering.  Have either a split upper with solid
inner (from Revington) or split adjustable column, stator and adjustable wheel
(which needs restoration) to offer in trade or will purchase outright.  Please
contact me off list if you have column available.  I am located in Det. MI.
area.
Dan
 Planning & Development Services
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673 cell

From mgowen55 at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 18 16:09:20 2008
From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen)
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 18:09:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Trunnion Bolt Tightening
Message-ID: <BAY111-DS722959F3B8A9A66FC8501D6F30@phx.gbl>

Could someone tell me the torque setting for the TR4A trunnion bolt and nut
(items 92 and 98 in the Moss Catalog diagram at
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29138 ). I found
a tightening procedure for the TR4 trunnion in the factory manual, but nothing
for the TR4A (although it may be lurking in there somewhere).
Thanks
Glenn

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 18 19:57:05 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 18:57:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] drill bits
Message-ID: <944090.62306.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

hello,
Anyone have suggestions on where or what brand of really good drill
bits to buy?  One's that last more than 4-5 uses?  I'm getting frustrated with
one's i'm using.  thanks!

gary n.

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Dec 18 20:17:10 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 20:17:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] drill bits
In-Reply-To: <944090.62306.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <944090.62306.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <FB47C86ECA6B469AA1BBA711B164D440@newcomputer>

If there is one item where "You get what you pay for" applies, it is drill
bits.  There are a number of good brands on the market but even some of the
good brands offer a variety of different qualities of bits.

As a rule, if the set is low priced, you probably won't get much use from
them.  Just read the advertising print for things that say "long lasting",
"hardened" or "Titanium" among other things that would lead one to believe
that they are top quality. 

The last set I got was a DeWalt brand from Sears.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 7:57 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] drill bits

hello,
Anyone have suggestions on where or what brand of really good drill
bits to buy?  One's that last more than 4-5 uses?  I'm getting frustrated
with
one's i'm using.  thanks!

gary n.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From mdporter at dfn.com  Thu Dec 18 20:31:19 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 20:31:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] drill bits
In-Reply-To: <944090.62306.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <944090.62306.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <494B1587.4000004@dfn.com>

Gary Nafziger wrote:
> hello,
> Anyone have suggestions on where or what brand of really good drill
> bits to buy?  One's that last more than 4-5 uses?  I'm getting frustrated with
> one's i'm using.  thanks!
>
>   

One principal description seems to be the best guide--the type of steel 
used.  If the set is described as "carbon steel," they're not that 
hard.  Look for bits advertised as "HSS steel." HSS is a tool steel and 
is a good deal harder than carbon steel.
 

Any bit with titanium nitride coating will be a gold color and capable 
of lasting quite a while, but those have to be treated differently than 
other materials.  The most common mistake made with TiN-coated bits is 
not using enough pressure.  Allowing such a bit to spin work-hardens to 
material to be cut and rubs off the coating, and the bit stops cutting.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Dec 19 03:43:16 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 05:43:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] drill bits
References: <944090.62306.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c961c6$9a0138c0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

Well, depending on what you're drilling, 4-5 uses before resharpening is 
about right.  Most folk don't sharpen their bits enough, spin them too fast, 
run them dry, and press too hard.  All of which promptly wipe out a drill 
bit.

Which in my opinion makes for a great excuse to go buy a drill doctor. 
While you can certainly resharpen a bit by hand, the drill doctor takes the 
art and magic out of it, consistently resharpening with darn good results.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:57 PM
Subject: [TR] drill bits


> hello,
> Anyone have suggestions on where or what brand of really good drill
> bits to buy?  One's that last more than 4-5 uses?  I'm getting frustrated 
> with
> one's i'm using.  thanks!

From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 19 05:29:55 2008
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 04:29:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] drill bits
Message-ID: <549287.66500.qm@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- On Fri, 12/19/08, Nolan <opposumking at verizon.net> wrote:

From: Nolan <opposumking at verizon.net>
Date: Friday, December 19, 2008, 5:43 AM

Well, depending on what you're drilling, 4-5 uses before resharpening is 
about right.  Most folk don't sharpen their bits enough, spin them too
fast, 
run them dry, and press too hard.  All of which promptly wipe out a drill 
bit.

Which in my opinion makes for a great excuse to go buy a drill doctor. 
While you can certainly resharpen a bit by hand, the drill doctor takes the 
art and magic out of it, consistently resharpening with darn good results.


I second that. I bought a drill doctor several years ago. It keeps my drills working very well.Note that if you are going to sharpen your bits, you take any coating off the cutting edge so coated bits are not worth the extra cost. I buy HSS bits as was suggested and usually sharpen them before first use. It is amazing how much better they cut after that.

John Young

From aribert.neumann at edag-us.com  Fri Dec 19 05:32:48 2008
From: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com (Aribert Neumann)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 07:32:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Flywheel lightening
Message-ID: <OFC806DD42.D8EE6573-ON85257524.0044825A-85257524.00459FBC@edag.de>

Currently on eBay, there is a T5 conversion kit for a GT6.  Included in the
package is a lightened flywheel.  This flywheel looks spooky dangerous to
me.  Has anyone ever seen lightening done in this manner (the only
lightening that I have seen was machining stock off of the back (opposite
of the clutch face).  I don't mind sharing the link since I have been
outbid.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300280962022&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&viewitem=

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 19 06:30:11 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 08:30:11 EST
Subject: [TR] drill bits
Message-ID: <c5a.3df54c69.367cfbe3@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/18/2008 9:31:40 PM Central Standard Time, 
mdporter at dfn.com writes: 
> The most common mistake made with TiN-coated bits is 
> not using enough pressure.  Allowing such a bit to spin work-hardens to 
> material to be cut and rubs off the coating, and the bit stops cutting.

Good point.  Let me just add that the second most common mistake is too much 
speed.  Speed makes for friction, friction makes heat and heat will de-temper 
the drill bit and it will quickly become dull.

Use a drill press whenever you can.  A drill press turns more slowly than a 
hand drill and the mechanical advantage afforded by the crank wheel means more 
pressure will less exertion.  That and a little lubricant can make you drill 
bits last much longer.

Cheers

Dave Massey
St. Louis

From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Fri Dec 19 07:01:48 2008
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 09:01:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] drill bits
In-Reply-To: <c5a.3df54c69.367cfbe3@cs.com>
References: <c5a.3df54c69.367cfbe3@cs.com>
Message-ID: <57BBAB9BD7AC4FFF87F0C815078209FE@RAS>

"Low speed, plenty of feed" was the mantra we were taught back in the day.

--
Ian
62 TR4

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 8:30 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] drill bits

In a message dated 12/18/2008 9:31:40 PM Central Standard Time, 
mdporter at dfn.com writes: 
> The most common mistake made with TiN-coated bits is 
> not using enough pressure.  Allowing such a bit to spin work-hardens to 
> material to be cut and rubs off the coating, and the bit stops cutting.

Good point.  Let me just add that the second most common mistake is too much

speed.  Speed makes for friction, friction makes heat and heat will
de-temper 
the drill bit and it will quickly become dull.

Use a drill press whenever you can.  A drill press turns more slowly than a 
hand drill and the mechanical advantage afforded by the crank wheel means
more 
pressure will less exertion.  That and a little lubricant can make you drill

bits last much longer.

Cheers

Dave Massey
St. Louis
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as lbc.resto at verizon.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Dec 19 07:40:22 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 08:40:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] drill bits
References: <c5a.3df54c69.367cfbe3@cs.com>
Message-ID: <D921DDA12DF947D1A3B4AE2CB625A2F7@mikeslaptop>

Dave Massey wrote:

> Good point.  Let me just add that the second most common mistake is too 
> much
> speed.  Speed makes for friction, friction makes heat and heat will 
> de-temper
> the drill bit and it will quickly become dull.
>
An average cutting speed for a typical cold drawn mild steel is around 70 to 
80 fpm.  For a 1/4 drill bit, this equates to1070 rpm.  For 3/8, it is 713 
and for 1/2, it is 535 rpm.  The harder the steel, the slower you drill - 
thus, for a quenched and tempered mild steel you might reduce these speeds 
by half.

Also, don't forget that when drilling non-ferrous metals it is best to have 
zero or negative rake on the cutting edge of the drill, to avoid the 
possibility of the drill digging in, picking up the workpiece (which you 
didn't bother to secure to the table of the drill press because "it is just 
one hole"), and spinning it wildly while it raps the knuckles of the left 
hand.  I have the scars to prove it.

Mike 

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Dec 19 07:41:16 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 08:41:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] drill bits
References: <c5a.3df54c69.367cfbe3@cs.com>
	<57BBAB9BD7AC4FFF87F0C815078209FE@RAS>
Message-ID: <33FE3486EEC94503AAC070E070D8DBB1@mikeslaptop>

'Zactly

Mike


> "Low speed, plenty of feed" was the mantra we were taught back in the day.

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Dec 19 08:02:52 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 10:02:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Flywheel lightening
In-Reply-To: <OFC806DD42.D8EE6573-ON85257524.0044825A-85257524.00459FBC@edag.de>
References: <OFC806DD42.D8EE6573-ON85257524.0044825A-85257524.00459FBC@edag.de>
Message-ID: <8CB30020043F895-11D4-BD@WEBMAIL-DF21.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Aribert Neumann <aribert.neumann at edag-us.com>










Currently on eBay, there is a T5 conversion kit for a GT6.  Included in the
package is a lightened flywheel.  This flywheel looks spooky dangerous to
me.  Has anyone ever seen lightening done in this manner (the only
lightening that I have seen was machining stock off of the back (opposite
of the clutch face).  I don't mind sharing the link since I have been
outbid.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300280962022&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&viewitem=


 

==AM==
I don't know about the flywheel, but I'm wondering if anyone here has ever used this particular gearbox conversion. If I'm reading the ratios for that box correctly, 1st must be nearly useless...unless you've got lots of stumps to pull! :-)



--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)
 
Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Fri Dec 19 08:11:36 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 10:11:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Drill Bits
Message-ID: <014601c961ec$16698500$6401a8c0@STATION6>

> Just some additional considerations on coated bits. Keep in mind that the
> shiny part at the tip of the bit does not do the cutting. The point of the
> tip becomes the guide for entry. The cutting portion is the swirled edge
> of the bit. This coupled with the degree of angle provides the ease of
> entry. Sharper angles provide faster entry but dull faster. There is
> always a trade off. There are min's and max's to angle setting where too
> little or too much will not cut. Since the bit is totally covered with its
> coating the very edge does have the coating and does aid in extended life.
> The most important statement in IMHO was carbon versus HSS (high speed
> steel) where HSS is far superior and coated HSS bits further extend the
> life but to what degree has much to do with speed, pressure, etc. as
> stated. As a side note on free hand sharpening where many go wrong is
> changing the angle and twisting/turning the bit when sharpening. The
> proper way is to align/match the existing angle with the grinding wheel
> (dressed/flat) and place the bit to the wheel and lift up slightly without
> turning or twisting the bit. Light pressure is all that is needed.
> Applying too much pressure will grind more than is needed and make the two
> sides that you need to sharpen unequal and useless. Grinding stone grade
> for each application is also important along with many other items. Edge
> life, and thus 4-5 sharpenings is good, is more a function of material
> being cut followed by speed and pressure. Drilling stainless and drilling
> a TR body panel will result in different edge life. Drilling body panels
> and having to sharpen after 4-5 holes indicates other problems that would
> need addressing. I have used the same bit to drill soft metal like body
> panels for a long time. The need for pressure has more to do with dull
> blades. Like a hand saw, no pressure should be applied except to the
> extent of keeping the cutting edge on the material being cut. The teeth,
> if sharp, will do the cutting and pressure should match the cut speed of
> the saw. If you go to fast or apply too much pressure the gullet area of
> each tooth will get clogged, burn/heat the material and not allow for the
> cut material to be ejected, thus not maintaining cooling. Same applies
> with bits and saw blades whether steel or carbide tipped. Too fast and the
> curl of the bit will not eject material, cause heat from "blow by" and
> burn both the bit and the material. Again the same with saw blades, steel
> or carbide. Cutting tools whether steel, carbide or ceramic are designed
> for different applications, materials being cut, speed and feed rates just
> to mention a few. The number of teeth, rim speed, kerf (thickness of cut),
> angles and application play heavily in design. So match the tool with the
> application. Just my humble opinion.
> Alex Manzo
> SunBelt Saw & Tool Co., Inc. (a lot of financial interest but no
> solicitation) :o)
> 72 TR6
> 59 TR3A

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 19 08:32:29 2008
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 07:32:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Flywheel lightening
References: <mailman.5963.1229699508.3542.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <862362.75014.qm@web37502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Actually, I was thinking that 4.03 first gear would be perfect with a 3.27
rear end in my Sports 6!  

I'm surprised its bid so high with that crazy $250
shipping flat rate.  It shouldn't cost more than $100 

Chad in Tulsa
----------------------------------------------------------
Message: 14
Date:
Fri, 19 Dec 2008 10:02:52 -0500
From: Andrew Mace <zoboherald at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Flywheel lightening
To: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com,
triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID:
<8CB30020043F895-11D4-BD at WEBMAIL-DF21.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
-----Original Message-----
==AM==
I don't know
about the flywheel, but I'm wondering if anyone here has ever used this
particular gearbox conversion. If I'm reading the ratios for that box
correctly, 1st must be nearly useless...unless you've got lots of stumps to
pull! :-)

--Andy  Mace
*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ...
It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with 
wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)
Check
out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 19 08:43:13 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 07:43:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] drill bits
In-Reply-To: <000f01c961c6$9a0138c0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <20081219154313.NETE24847.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

Nolan wrote :
>  run them dry, 

That was going to be my point, but I see Nolan has beat me to it.  Too much
heat will quickly destroy the cutting edge; it only takes a few drops of
good cutting oil to keep it cool.

IMO securing the work makes a difference as well.  I keep an XY vice pretty
much permanently installed in my drill press, so it's easier to use it than
to remove it.  I don't keep track of how many uses I get from a bit before
resharpening (Drill Doctor); but it seems like a lot more than 4-5.  The
cheap HSS set I bought with the drill press over 15 years ago is still
mostly original except for the smaller sizes that get broken or lost.

Randall

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Dec 19 08:58:58 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 10:58:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] drill bits
References: <944090.62306.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<000f01c961c6$9a0138c0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
	<001501c961df$098bd4d0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <002901c961f2$b4e69500$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

> hi.  i'll confess to being ignorant.  you should always use lubricant? 
> what kind/how much?  and could you give me a little info on the drill 
> doctor?



Basically, yes.  It cools and lubricates.  There is the separate argument 
about strange metal conditioning properties that I can't agree with, or 
dispute.  I can say that when I drill/cut/tap with a cutting fluid, the job 
goes faster and easier, and the tool stay sharper longer.

While I happen to use tapmatic natural fluid, that's only because I've still 
got a bottle laying around.  The claims of homebrewed fluids run the gamut 
of motor oil, atf, diesel fuel, wd-40, antifreeze, peanut butter, mayonaise, 
dish soap, etc.  Honestly, probably all of them work well enough to make a 
dramatic improvement over dry cutting.

The drill doctor http://www.drilldoctor.com/ can be purchased at home depot, 
lowes, and amazon.com.  It's a darn good tool at sharpening and resharpening 
drill bits.  Comes in various configurations, each with slightly more 
capabilities and more expense.  I have the DD750X because I thought I might 
need to sharpen 3/4" bits (haven't yet).  I do like the two different face 
angles.  Reading the manual is confusing, watching the video is an "ah-ha!" 
moment.  From about 1/4" down it gets progressively harder to sharpen. 
Somewhere around 1/8 I get defeated and do it by hand.

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Dec 19 09:02:04 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:02:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Flywheel lightening
References: <OFC806DD42.D8EE6573-ON85257524.0044825A-85257524.00459FBC@edag.de>
Message-ID: <003401c961f3$234fa860$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

Drillings like that are not an uncommon method of reducing flywheel mass. 
Several of mine have been lightened that way in fact.  Because of the 
webbing you leave, it can be quite a bit stronger than total thinning.
.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aribert Neumann" <aribert.neumann at edag-us.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 7:32 AM
Subject: [TR] Flywheel lightening


> Currently on eBay, there is a T5 conversion kit for a GT6.  Included in 
> the
> package is a lightened flywheel.  This flywheel looks spooky dangerous to
> me.  Has anyone ever seen lightening done in this manner (the only
> lightening that I have seen was machining stock off of the back (opposite
> of the clutch face).  I don't mind sharing the link since I have been
> outbid.
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300280962022&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&viewitem=

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Dec 19 09:21:47 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 16:21:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] drill bits
Message-ID: <121920081621.19802.494BCA1B000EE9B100004D5A22165514069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Nolan" <opposumking at verizon.net>
> > hi.  i'll confess to being ignorant.  you should always use lubricant? 
> > what kind/how much?  and could you give me a little info on the drill 
> > doctor?

> Basically, yes.  It cools and lubricates. 

The exception is cast iron.  Drill and tap cast iron dry, or it can crumble on you.
 
> The drill doctor http://www.drilldoctor.com/ can be purchased at home depot, 
> lowes, and amazon.com.  It's a darn good tool at sharpening and resharpening 
> drill bits.  

Yes.  Well worth the time to spiff up a drill before a job.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 19 10:44:02 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:44:02 EST
Subject: [TR] drill bits
Message-ID: <d0b.3e0b7fcd.367d3762@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/19/2008 8:02:17 AM Central Standard Time, 
lbc.resto at verizon.net writes: 
> "Low speed, plenty of feed" was the mantra we were taught back in the day.
> 
And if you use a smaller (read cheaper) drill bit to drill a pilot hole your 
larger (read more expensive) bits will last pretty much forever.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 19 10:54:12 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:54:12 EST
Subject: [TR] drill bits
Message-ID: <d19.340cd001.367d39c4@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/19/2008 8:40:41 AM Central Standard Time, 
mmarr at notwires.com writes: 
> Also, don't forget that when drilling non-ferrous metals it is best to have 
> 
> zero or negative rake on the cutting edge of the drill, to avoid the 
> possibility of the drill digging in, picking up the workpiece (which you 
> didn't bother to secure to the table of the drill press because "it is just 
> one hole"), and spinning it wildly while it raps the knuckles of the left 
> hand.  I have the scars to prove it.
> 
Ditto, in spades, when working with plastics.  So save all your dull bits for 
when drilling softer materials.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 19 11:00:04 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:00:04 EST
Subject: [TR] Flywheel lightening
Message-ID: <c91.3381e674.367d3b24@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/19/2008 9:03:19 AM Central Standard Time, 
zoboherald at aol.com writes: 
> This flywheel looks spooky dangerous to
> me.

That does seem a bit extreme but that is the low stress part of the flywheel. 
 Taking material off near the hub does less good (angular momentum is a 
function of distance from the center of rotation, after all) and weakens the 
flywheel in the most critical area.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 19 11:12:21 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:12:21 EST
Subject: [TR] drill bits
Message-ID: <c2c.4d7fec81.367d3e05@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/19/2008 9:59:12 AM Central Standard Time, 
opposumking at verizon.net writes: 
> While I happen to use tapmatic natural fluid, that's only because I've 
> still 
> got a bottle laying around.  The claims of homebrewed fluids run the gamut 
> of motor oil, atf, diesel fuel, wd-40, antifreeze, peanut butter, mayonaise, 
> 
> dish soap, etc.  Honestly, probably all of them work well enough to make a 
> dramatic improvement over dry cutting.
> 
Anything is better than nothing.  Even soapy water.  I use WD40 because it is 
in a handy aerosol can but extra virgin olive oil smells better.  So does 
peanut oil.  Tapmatic smells awful and the original formula can have a bad 
reaction with aluminum so rinse off promptly after use.

I'll bet antifreeze works well, but I haven't tried it yet.

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 19 11:21:53 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 10:21:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] drill bits
In-Reply-To: <002901c961f2$b4e69500$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
References: <944090.62306.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><000f01c961c6$9a0138c0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us><001501c961df$098bd4d0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
	<002901c961f2$b4e69500$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <00f801c96206$abd0e650$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> The drill doctor http://www.drilldoctor.com/ can be purchased at home
> depot,

Also flea-bay, of course, which is where I got mine.  Sometimes a better
deal, sometimes not (so be sure you know what you are bidding on and what
the shipping charge will be).

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 19 11:40:06 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 10:40:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] drill bits
In-Reply-To: <c2c.4d7fec81.367d3e05@cs.com>
References: <c2c.4d7fec81.367d3e05@cs.com>
Message-ID: <010201c96209$37261480$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I use WD40 because it is
> in a handy aerosol can but extra virgin olive oil smells better.  

I use Mitee thread cutting oil for drilling or tapping steel.  Seems like it
maybe works a bit better than WD40, but I couldn't prove it.  Supposedly the
sulfur content helps maintain lubrication under the extreme pressure near
the cutting edge.

But possibly it's no longer available; I couldn't find a source just now.

Randall

From nogera at worldnet.att.net  Fri Dec 19 15:35:59 2008
From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 16:35:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] Block Crack
Message-ID: <08A98C8B6B4942AE8E8B7D4288156956@Carroom>

Got the spare block back, having had it cleaned. Inspection shows what
appears to be a tiny cracks between the # 9 head stud hole and the water
jacket ( this is the rear most head stud). 
Question,  Am I looking at a boat anchor or is there a fix?   

Bob  ( Hoping the answer is " they all do that!")   

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Dec 19 16:30:25 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 23:30:25 -0000
Subject: [TR] drill bits
References: <c2c.4d7fec81.367d3e05@cs.com>
Message-ID: <FAF707C7A1E14940A4A84A50D6EBE561@Bevan>

It's more than 15 years since I ran my engineering consumables business in France but while there, I 
was the French distributor for a fascinating range of products sold by a UK company called 
Selectequip. Absolutely NFI now as I returned to the UK and retired but the company is still going 
strong and the products are without doubt the very best I've ever come across.
On the question of drill bits, point your browser at 
www.selectequip.co.uk/Product_Specification.asp?ProductRef=325 where you'll see the 'Toolmaster' 
product spec of twist drills. Believe me, the claims made by Selectequip are absolutely true.
We always sold direct to the end-user through commission agents and the only way to be sure of 
getting an order was to demo the product.
With Toolmaster, we used to use a nice rusty and massive bolt or a piece of solid bar, trap it in a 
vice and start drilling at a fairly high speed. You didn't centre-punch, you didn't need to drill a 
pilot - the bit started cutting immediately - AND on a curved surface!. Once through the bolt or 
bar, we'd leave the drill running at a higher speed and slide it back and forth in the hole. We'd 
then pull it out, stop the drill and ask the prospect to grab hold of the drill bit in his fingers.
Well, would you do that with a conventional twist drill after that sort of use?
They always refused so we grabbed it instead. The bit was only warm and in no way hot. That amazed 
them!
The next party piece was to re-insert drill in the hole, set the drill to high speed and then gently 
exert side pressure on the drill web with it still running. Pretty soon the drill web had sawn off 
the top of the bolt or bar - and was still cool!!!
When I sold the business, I made sure I'd got plenty of Toolmaster drills in a variety of imperial 
and metric sizes for my own use and I know without doubt, that when they eventually stuff me in a 
box,. my twist drills will still be in excellent shape and well able to carry on doing the sort of 
thing no normal thinking person would expect of a drill. Have a look at the Selectequip on-line 
catalogue - even if only for interests sake. There's some fascinating stuff there and while its 
certainly not cheap, IMHO its absolutely the best there is.
Again, NFI on my part. I did very nicely out of that business while I was running it and I wish I 
could go back to France and to start up again from where I left off.

Jonmac 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Dec 19 16:59:29 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 18:59:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] What's the next gearbox move????
Message-ID: <494BEF11.30231.20249584@localhost>

HELP!  Bill Gingerich has kindly offered to fax me some good 
instructions, but I thought I'd ask the Font Of Automotive Wisdom on 
this anyway.

I'm still stuck trying to disassemble my GT6 gearobx.  Got the 
layshaft out, but the cluster gear is still loose in the bottom of 
the case.  Got the input shaft out easily.  The next instruction says 
to drive the mainshaft backwards to push the rear bearing out, which 
will let the mainshaft tilt upward enough so that the gears will 
start coming off.  Did that.  Problem is, the gear at the back (1st?) 
contacts the case long before the bearing is free.  I removed the 
circlip which anchors the output shaft to the rear of the bearing, 
and managed to move the bearing a big further out (rearward) by 
moving it on the shaft as well as the case.  Moving this bearing is 
tedious and requires prying it on one side then the other, moving it 
mils at a time.  It still has 1/4 in to go.  But I see no other way 
to get the gears off the mainshaft.

I just finished off a bottle of Ipswich Stout, but it didn't help.  
Now what?  There must be a way.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From cwn74 at aol.com  Fri Dec 19 17:13:17 2008
From: cwn74 at aol.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 19:13:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Spits] What's the next gearbox move????
In-Reply-To: <494BEF11.30231.20249584@localhost>
References: <494BEF11.30231.20249584@localhost>
Message-ID: <B484237A9A0848F1B1BFDF82FF39AF9B@semperon3400>

Trying to do all this in my head from 20-year ago memory without the parts
in front of me...

If the input shaft is out and the counter cluster is dropped to the bottom
of the case and the rear clip is off the mainshaft outside the bearing......

Can you pound carefully on the rear end of the mainshaft with a 2x4 to
protect the threads (or something else likewise) to increase the clearance
between the rear gears and the bearing? 
Be sure the gears don't interface with the counter cluster!

Then move the mainshaft rearwards and bring the bearing out of the case.
You may need to insert something between the rear gear and the bearing to
prevent the mainshaft reassuming it's original position.

Slide the bearing off the mainshaft.
You need to remove the speedo drive gear first.

Now you can tip the mainshaft up and remove
-Or-
Remove the clip holding the front gears on the mainshaft and remove some to
allow you to tip up and remove.

Something like that...

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
'72 Stag '74 Spitfire
"Reality... It's not what you think."

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 19 17:14:36 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 16:14:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] What's the next gearbox move????
In-Reply-To: <494BEF11.30231.20249584@localhost>
References: <494BEF11.30231.20249584@localhost>
Message-ID: <006401c96237$f184def0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Problem is, the gear at the back (1st?)
> contacts the case long before the bearing is free.  

Jim, I have no idea if this would work on a GT6 box, but it worked for me in
a similar situation.  I believe there is a circlip on the outside surface of
the rear bearing.  Try putting some sort of metal spacer between the circlip
and case (I used some old lathe bits but some suitable nuts would probably
work) and tapping the mainshaft back into the box.  When the circlip hits
the spacers, you should be able to tap the shaft through the bearing without
too much fuss.  

Then when the shaft is as far forward as it will go, tap it backwards again,
where it will hopefully carry the bearing with it (moving the bearing
through the case).  If necessary you can repeat the operation with larger
spacers, but it only took one try for me.

If you are working on an OD box, be sure to put a socket or something over
the tail of the shaft when you tap on it.  You don't want to take a chance
on mushrooming the end of the shaft where it rides in the bushing in the OD.


Randall

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Fri Dec 19 18:33:19 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 20:33:19 EST
Subject: [TR] Flywheel lightening
Message-ID: <bee.3922fe80.367da55f@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/19/2008 10:33:04 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com writes:

Actually, I was thinking that 4.03 first gear would be perfect with a  3.27
rear end in my Sports 6!  
Well, maybe! Still seems like first would be nearly useless behind a 2L  six 
and surprisingly Herald-like behind a 1600.
 
Some numbers, hopefully readable:
 
4th / 3rd / 2nd / 1st / Rev.
 
Vitesse/Sports 6 1600 (4.11:1 final drive)
4.11 / 5.74 / 8.88 / 15.42 /  15.42 -- overall ratios
1.00 / 1.25 / 1.78 /  2.93 /  2.93 --  gearbox ratios
 
GT6 (3.27:1 final drive)
3.27 / 4.11 / 5.82 / 8.66 / 10.13 -- overall  ratios
1.00 / 1.25 / 1.78 / 2.65 / 3.10  -- gearbox ratios
 
**T5 on eBay with .81 5th gear (paired with 3.27:1 final drive)**
3.27 /  4.87 / 7.75 / 13.18 / 12.30 -- overall ratios (5th overall 2.65)
1.00 / 1.49  / 2.37 / 4.03 / 3.76 -- gearbox ratios  

Spitfire 1500 US-spec. (3.89:1 ratio, single-rail gearbox; note that  
three-rail all-synchro is almost the same)
3.89 / 5.41 / 8.41 / 13.65 / 15.00 -- overall ratios
1.00 /1.39 / 2.16 / 3.50 / 3.85 -- gearbox ratios

 
Herald 1200, Spitfire 4-Mk3 (4.11:1 final drive)
4.11 / 5.74 / 8.88 /  15.42 / 15.42
1.00 / 1.40 / 2.16 / 3.75 / 3.75 
 
Triumph 10 and Herald 948TC (4.55:1 final drive)
4.55 / 6.62 / 11.20 /  19.45 / 19.45 -- overall ratios
1.00 / 1.454 / 2.46 / 4.271 / 4.271  --  gearbox ratios
 
For whatever the above is worth... ;-)

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald 
Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 19 20:09:57 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 19:09:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] drill bits thanks!
Message-ID: <347129.51936.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

wow I learned a lot through the responses to my drill bit question.  I always
did drilling under the impression that higher speed and more pressure on the
steel the better.  Also I've rarely used a lubricant. 

 I  had been curious
about why some bits lasted much longer than others and it must have been that
accidently I slowed down and used more appropriate pressure at that time. 
thanks for everyone's input.  very very helpful and another reason this list
is amazing!

gary n.

From mondoluxe at suddenlink.net  Sat Dec 20 05:34:44 2008
From: mondoluxe at suddenlink.net (Jeffrey Johnson)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 06:34:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] One in, One out
Message-ID: <20081220123552.YQLQ13880.omta01.suddenlink.net@mariner133.suddenlink.net>

After a few years of wandering I'm back on the list after a several 
year hiatus. A lot of familiar names still kicking around.
I find it a curious consequence that I move to Arkansas and Brad 
Kahler leaves for Kentucky.
I've finally found the time  to finish the multi-year restoration of 
my '76 TR6. Just static timed it last evening, off to get some fuel 
line and tighten down the starter. Should be finished by spring, LOL. 
If I could only stop the progression of this shipwright's disease............
Of course as I had to take off the fan, I realized this would be the 
perfect time to put in that electric fan.I've always wanted, and then 
there's always relays and upgraded lighting, gee, an overdrive unit 
would sure be nice, Art Lipp's delrin accelerator shaft bushings Oh, 
the list gets longer.

As a student of Fred Thomas, you'll be pleased to note that I PC'd 
dang near everything I pulled off the car, incl. but by no means 
limited to, the trailing arms,(clear), the accelerator pedal, 
pedal-box, well you get the idea.
Got some SS bungs to weld into the exhaust for installation of an O2 
sensor and fuel/air meter.
Great to be  able to once again enjoy the wisdom and humor of this 
fine assemblage of TR cognoscenti.

Hi Fred!  Thanks for the help!

Jeffrey Johnson	

Waiting for the second coming of Johnny Storm, International racing car driver

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Sat Dec 20 09:01:41 2008
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 11:01:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
Message-ID: <web-41905380@mail.presby.edu>

My 1980 Spit has left me stranded several times over the 
last few years, always with no spark.  I have always found 
that playing with the bolts holding the Lucas amp module 
down eventually restores the spark.  I assumed the problem 
was that the module was losing its ground connection. 
 Last time I had the problem I took a lot of time to clean 
the connection and even added a ground wire.  Well, I 
recently got stranded again, played with the module a bit, 
got going again and drove home, now can't get a spark, and 
my meter shows that the module is clearly grounded.  So 
has my fiddling in the past been accomplishing something 
unrelated to grounding, or does the electronic ignition 
fail this way, with intermittent stops and starts 
regardless of what I do?  Have any of you experienced this 
before?

Thanks for any advice, and happy holidays to everyone. 
 Can you believe I was driving the TR6 top down yesterday 
here in the warm south?!  Sorry to rub that in.  Yeah, 
yeah, I know that cold weather is back in our forecast in 
a couple of days.

Tim
Clinton, SC
1980 Spit
1974 TR6

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat Dec 20 09:45:50 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 11:45:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <web-41905380@mail.presby.edu>
References: <web-41905380@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <20081220164552.TMBV128.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 11:01 AM 12/20/2008, Tim Gaines wrote:
>So has my fiddling in the past been accomplishing something 
>unrelated to grounding, or does the electronic ignition fail this 
>way, with intermittent stops and starts regardless of what I do?

Could be.  The remote Lucas ignition box contains a secret, 
though.  the box contains a low-cost GM ignition module.  Hints 
at  <http://www.triumphspitfire.com/substitute.html>

Look around on the web or check with NASS for the particulars on 
replacing it, though I think it's pretty straightforward.  I'd go 
ahead and change it - $17.99 at my local FLAPS.

>Thanks for any advice, and happy holidays to everyone. Can you 
>believe I was driving the TR6 top down yesterday here in the warm 
>south?!  Sorry to rub that in.  Yeah, yeah, I know that cold weather 
>is back in our forecast in a couple of days.

We'll enjoy it while we can!


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sat Dec 20 10:05:00 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 09:05:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <20081220164552.TMBV128.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
References: <web-41905380@mail.presby.edu>
	<20081220164552.TMBV128.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
Message-ID: <494D25BC.5000900@comcast.net>

>> So has my fiddling in the past been accomplishing something unrelated
>> to grounding, or does the electronic ignition fail this way, with
>> intermittent stops and starts regardless of what I do?
>
> Could be. The remote Lucas ignition box contains a secret, though. the
> box contains a low-cost GM ignition module. Hints at
> <http://www.triumphspitfire.com/substitute.html>
So here's a thought: The substitute web page says that the GM module is
grounded to the inside of the Lucas box which is then grounded to the
body. What if the ground connection between the GM module and the Lucas
box is iffy? Might be worth measuring before you pull the GM module out
of the Lucas box.

Mike

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Sat Dec 20 11:21:31 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 12:21:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
References: <web-41905380@mail.presby.edu><20081220164552.TMBV128.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
	<494D25BC.5000900@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7C97AA4E9FC24FC480446AA878B8BC74@KARL>

In any case, once you get ALL of the ground connections clean, why not keep 
them that way with a good coating of silicone dielectric grease ?  Those 
connections should stay shiny clean and conduct well from then on.

Karl


> So here's a thought: The substitute web page says that the GM module is
> grounded to the inside of the Lucas box which is then grounded to the
> body. What if the ground connection between the GM module and the Lucas
> box is iffy? Might be worth measuring before you pull the GM module out
> of the Lucas box.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Dec 20 14:11:55 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 16:11:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Spits] What's the next gearbox move????
In-Reply-To: <d66.3aa64c77.367ea8b4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <494D194B.23816.24B18380@localhost>

Thanks to all the great help, I now have the gearbox apart!  Well, 
mostly apart.  The big gear at the rear won't come off the front of 
the mainshaft because it hits some splines which have a larger 
diameter.  Obviously it was meant to come off the rear, which means 
removing the speedo drive gear and the rear bearing.  I'll consider 
that move carefully, will probably have to get a gear puller to 
proceed further down that path.  However the rest of the system is 
apart.

Now comes the evaluation process, figure out why 2nd was so noisy, 
measure various tolerances, etc.  Nothing looks broken, which is what 
I was afraid of.

The real challenge will be putting it all back together!

Thanks again, everyone.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 20 15:59:17 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 14:59:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <web-41905380@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <20081220225917.JKDJ18275.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> or does the electronic ignition fail this way, 
> with intermittent stops and starts regardless of what I do?  

Totally different module, but I once had an electronic ignition module that
would do exactly that.  Never could explain why, but replacing it solved the
problem.

If it's true that it's a GM module inside and you replace it; be sure to use
heat sink compound between the module and it's mounting plate.  The
transistors inside need a heat sink for long life.  Replacement modules
normally come with a sachet of heat sink compound, but ask for it if yours
doesn't.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Dec 20 16:18:16 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:18:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <20081220225917.JKDJ18275.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <web-41905380@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <494D36E8.18076.25252FFD@localhost>

On 20 Dec 2008 at 14:59, Randall wrote:

> If it's true that it's a GM module inside...

The Lucas CEI unit certainly does.  It's the earlier 4-terminal GM 
unit.  GM made a later one with 5 terminals.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From opposumking at verizon.net  Sat Dec 20 16:40:31 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:40:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
References: <web-41905380@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <8072AE1167E940D3A10D9D8B73034494@CPQ12949640186>

The box is darn easy to lose ground on, since it's just a pair of through 
bolts.  Very poor design.  Just because you're grounded to the bolts doesn't 
mean the bolts have made ground with the body panel.

The ignition module itself inside the box has steel connectors, the wires 
plugging into the box easily lose connection as a result.  To help ensure 
this happens, Triumph wisely faced the connectors to the wheel, ensuring 
maximum water saturation of the connections. 

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Dec 20 16:46:31 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:46:31 EST
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
Message-ID: <c88.3dd4b66a.367eddd7@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/20/2008 11:12:26 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mtgaines at mail.presby.edu writes:

Can you  believe I was driving the TR6 top down yesterday 
here in the warm  south?!  Sorry to rub that in.  Yeah, 
yeah, I know that cold  weather is back in our forecast in 
a couple of  days.



OH Yeah Tim, Rub it in big time!
We got socked in here in NE OHIO right before Thanksgiving and there has  
been little relief since!
What's with Global Warming?  Not happening here?  I can't get a  TR down on 
the road w/o risking getting a salt spray all over  it! 
Darrell
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 20 16:49:02 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 15:49:02 -0800
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <494D36E8.18076.25252FFD@localhost>
Message-ID: <20081220234902.LNEP26434.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> The Lucas CEI unit certainly does.  

Sorry, Jim, I didn't meant that the way it sounded.  Just meant that I
personally have no knowledge of Lucas CEI or OPUS ignition systems; only
some familiarity with GM ignition modules.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Dec 20 17:05:13 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 19:05:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <20081220234902.LNEP26434.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <494D36E8.18076.25252FFD@localhost>
Message-ID: <494D41E9.28473.25502AFB@localhost>

On 20 Dec 2008 at 15:49, Randall wrote:

> Sorry, Jim, I didn't meant that the way it sounded.

Neither did I.  It wasn't clear whether the original
poster meant the CEI unit or its predecessor.  I have
knowledge of the CEI only.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Sat Dec 20 18:32:42 2008
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 20:32:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <20081220164552.TMBV128.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
References: <web-41905380@mail.presby.edu>
	<20081220164552.TMBV128.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
Message-ID: <web-41917690@mail.presby.edu>

Thanks to a number of folks on the list who gave good 
advice about grounding the module, module failure, and 
(especially) from Jeff Scarbrough, info on a cheap swap of 
the innards.  Check it out below if you missed it.  This 
list is really great.

Tim

On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 11:45:50 -0500
  Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at charter.net> wrote:

> Could be.  The remote Lucas ignition box contains a 
>secret, though.  the box contains a low-cost GM ignition 
>module.  Hints at 
> <http://www.triumphspitfire.com/substitute.html>
> 
> Look around on the web or check with NASS for the 
>particulars on replacing it, though I think it's pretty 
>straightforward.  I'd go ahead and change it - $17.99 at 
>my local FLAPS.

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Sat Dec 20 19:18:00 2008
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 02:18:00 GMT
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
Message-ID: <200812201918645.SM02596@[166.70.182.40]>

I wonder if this would apply to the 1980 TR7 ignition modules?  Looks like I'm
going to have to pull the box and look inside!

Thanks!

Brad


-----Original Message-----
From: "Tim Gaines"
Sent 12/20/2008 6:32:42 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition

Thanks to a number of folks on the list who gave good
advice about grounding the module, module failure, and
(especially) from Jeff Scarbrough, info on a cheap swap of
the innards. Check it out below if you missed it. This
list is really great.
Tim
On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 11:45:50 -0500
Jeff Scarbrough  wrote:
&gt; Could be. The remote Lucas ignition box contains a
&gt;secret, though. the box contains a low-cost GM ignition
&gt;module. Hints at
&gt;
&gt;
&gt; Look around on the web or check with NASS for the
&gt;particulars on replacing it, though I think it's pretty
&gt;straightforward. I'd go ahead and change it - $17.99 at
&gt;my local FLAPS.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
You are subscribed as brad.kahler at 141.com
http://www.team.net/archive

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Sat Dec 20 20:22:49 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 19:22:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] Block Crack
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1229799601.16837.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1229799601.16837.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C0C1E1F4C56D4376B3A46F0D9164BF2F@Induninwlaptop>

Bob,

My experience with cracks in engine blocks is not good. I'd tried having
them welded, filled, and other wise fixed and have never had it hold.
There's just too much expansion and contraction with cast iron to fix it
successfully. Sorry, I think you have a nice boat anchor...

Brian

67 TR4A

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 16:35:59 -0600
From: "Bob Nogueira" <nogera at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: [TR] Block Crack
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <08A98C8B6B4942AE8E8B7D4288156956 at Carroom>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Got the spare block back, having had it cleaned. Inspection shows what
appears to be a tiny cracks between the # 9 head stud hole and the water
jacket ( this is the rear most head stud). 
Question,  Am I looking at a boat anchor or is there a fix?   

Bob  ( Hoping the answer is " they all do that!")   

From wbmcleod at gmail.com  Sat Dec 20 20:34:31 2008
From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 20:34:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Block Crack
In-Reply-To: <C0C1E1F4C56D4376B3A46F0D9164BF2F@Induninwlaptop>
References: <mailman.1.1229799601.16837.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<C0C1E1F4C56D4376B3A46F0D9164BF2F@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <253E12B3-565F-4C0C-99C7-C6F344839ECB@gmail.com>

There have to be an unbelievable number of bare blocks out there at  
giveaway prices.  If anyone near Tucson, AZ needs one, get in touch!   
Bill
Slightly Classics
Tucson, AZ


On Dec 20, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Brian Induni wrote:

> Bob,
>
> My experience with cracks in engine blocks is not good. I'd tried  
> having
> them welded, filled, and other wise fixed and have never had it hold.
> There's just too much expansion and contraction with cast iron to  
> fix it
> successfully. Sorry, I think you have a nice boat anchor...
>
> Brian
>
> 67 TR4A
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
>
> From: "Bob Nogueira" <nogera at worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: [TR] Block Crack
>
> Got the spare block back, having had it cleaned. Inspection shows what
> appears to be a tiny cracks between the # 9 head stud hole and the  
> water
> jacket ( this is the rear most head stud).
> Question,  Am I looking at a boat anchor or is there a fix?
>
> Bob  ( Hoping the answer is " they all do that!")
> _______________________________________________

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sat Dec 20 20:42:58 2008
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 22:42:58 EST
Subject: [TR] What's the next gearbox move???
Message-ID: <cfc.498f6f92.367f1542@aol.com>

Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 18:59:29 -0500
From: "Jim Muller"  <jimmuller at rcn.com>
Subject: [TR] What's the next gearbox  move????
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net, Spitfires at autox.team.net
Message-ID:  <494BEF11.30231.20249584 at localhost>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=US-ASCII

HELP!  Bill Gingerich has kindly offered to fax me  some good 
instructions, but I thought I'd ask the Font Of Automotive Wisdom  on 
this anyway.

I'm still stuck trying to disassemble my GT6  gearobx.  Got the 
layshaft out, but the cluster gear is still loose in  the bottom of 
the case.  Got the input shaft out easily.  The next  instruction says 
to drive the mainshaft backwards to push the rear bearing  out, which 
will let the mainshaft tilt upward enough so that the gears will  
start coming off.  Did that.  Problem is, the gear at the back  (1st?) 
contacts the case long before the bearing is free.  I removed  the 
circlip which anchors the output shaft to the rear of the bearing,  
and managed to move the bearing a big further out (rearward) by 
moving  it on the shaft as well as the case.  Moving this bearing is 
tedious  and requires prying it on one side then the other, moving it 
mils at a  time.  It still has 1/4 in to go.  But I see no other way 
to get  the gears off the mainshaft.

I just finished off a bottle of Ipswich  Stout, but it didn't help.  
Now what?  There must be a  way.

Jim Muller
_jimmuller at rcn.com_ (mailto:jimmuller at rcn.com) 
 
Jim,
Just did this today (Sat) with a friend who, between the two of us, rebuild  
TR3 and '6 gearboxes for Green Country Triumphs Club members.  This was our  
first foray into a GT6 gearbox which I am doing for my latest purchase.   
Really, the ideal thing to do is to remove the rear bearing first (which we did  
not do) and byusing a bearing separator and a sort of jig (see 
_http://www.vtr.org/maintain/TransRebuild/TRTrans01.pdf_ 
(http://www.vtr.org/maintain/TransRebuild/TRTrans01.pdf)  Page  7 for picture of the jig).  We were still able to 
successfully get the  gearbox apart using the same arrangement.  Let me know if 
I can be of any  other help.
Sam and Carol Clark
Green Country Triumphs

**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 21 06:55:47 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:55:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition now Pistons
In-Reply-To: <web-41917690@mail.presby.edu>
References: <web-41905380@mail.presby.edu>
	<20081220164552.TMBV128.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
	<web-41917690@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W264F4B3B431E040EFD0B1EBAEE0@phx.gbl>

Interesting piston swap listed on that site. Anybody on the list done that
ford fiesta piston swap on on a 1296 Spit engine?

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass.
http://windowslive.com/oneline/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anywhere
_122008

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Dec 21 09:17:25 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 11:17:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Auto Body
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPEENOFDAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

To all of you guys who are wondering how to get your Triumph painted..

I found a really good way to get my Triumph painted and learn at the same
time. I found that our local county technical trades school offers auto body
repair training. But, they not only offer a career course, they offer a
weekend class for people like me who has a auto restoration project that
needs auto body and paint.

In my case, you have access to all the normal auto body tools from hammer
and dolly, to D/A sanders, but also a paint booth! The best part is you
learn how to use all this stuff by a experienced teacher. All I have to
provide are materials such as fillers, sand paper, primer and paint. The
class fee in my case is very reasonable. In fact I just found out that since
I am a "senior" I can take the course for 50% off!

I have taken one semester so far and have my passenger side fender in
primer. Next semester I learn how to block sand, finish primer, and base
coat clear coat. Also next semester they are offering back to back Saturday
classes from 9:00 AM to 3:30 PM so I should be able to get quite a bit done.

I would strongly recommend this to anyone who is facing body work and paint
and interested in learning how it is done correctly. I have learned quite a
bit in 7 short Saturdays and met a lot of other great car people in the
process.
I have a section on my website (Auto Body) that you can review if you are
interested.

Have a great Holiday everyone!

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From nogera at worldnet.att.net  Sun Dec 21 14:05:20 2008
From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 15:05:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] Block Crack
In-Reply-To: <C0C1E1F4C56D4376B3A46F0D9164BF2F@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <CFF98B49FF93450DBF9C4C17B2DFA231@Carroom>

First thanks to everyone who has supplied advise on my block cracks. My
first action will be to try to replace the block since so far my experience
with the local machine shops is not what I would call confidence inspiring.
(there may be so good ones I just have found). 
If I can't find a replacement block at a reasonable price then I will start
searching for a 'Good' machine shop. 

So first question : 
  Anyone within 300 miles of Dallas TX have a spare block for sale? 


Bob  

From spamiam at comcast.net  Sun Dec 21 14:26:18 2008
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 16:26:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
Message-ID: <1A4A9A3989B1488281A51ADDAD00DA0F@p4server>

Brad, if you have the Delco distributor and that fancy electronic coil unit
made in France, then it SURE DOES have a 4-terminal Delco electronic ignition
unit inside it.

I had the Delco ignition on my '80 Spider.  I finally got scared of it because
I thought it had some unique, irreplaceable stuff inside.  Also, I installed
the UK SU carbs, and wanted to take advantage of the vacuum advance offered by
the carbs.  This required the use of the POINTS-type UK distributor.  The
points are extremely tedious to adjust.  So, when the time came to re-adjust
them, I installed a newtronics electronic ignition.  The manufacturing of the
interruptor was extremely poor and it allowed extra ignition signals about 10
degrees earlier than the real ones for 2 of the cylinders.  Not good.  I
removed that one in a hurry.

At that same time, I heard that the original electronic ignition used very
standard guts, and I reinstalled the original distributor and electronic
ignition with a new module.  It works fine and there is no apparent problem
with using mechanical-only advance.

The actual coil on the French unit does seem to be unique.  It is similar to
other coils, but the mounting stud holes are not precisely the same as others
I have seen for sale.  I have not looked very hard because it seems to be
working fine for now.

-Tony

>Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 02:18:00 GMT
>From: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler at 141.com>
>Subject: Re: [TR] Spit: Lucas electronic ignition
>To: "tim gaines" <mtgaines at mail.presby.edu>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Message-ID: <200812201918645.SM02596@[166.70.182.40]>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>I wonder if this would apply to the 1980 TR7 ignition modules?  Looks like
I'm
>going to have to pull the box and look inside!
>
>Thanks!
>
>Brad

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 21 16:04:40 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 15:04:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] 67 Herald on OC Craigslist (near Los Angeles, CA)
Message-ID: <20081221230441.UGS18275.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

You don't see many Heralds for sale, so I thought I'd point this one out in
case someone's interested.

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/965577697.html

NFI, etc.

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sun Dec 21 17:37:10 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 19:37:10 EST
Subject: [TR] Block Crack
Message-ID: <ce9.48332756.36803b36@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/21/2008 1:05:57 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
nogera at worldnet.att.net writes:

First  thanks to everyone who has supplied advise on my block cracks. My
first  action will be to try to replace the block since so far my experience
with  the local machine shops is not what I would call confidence  inspiring.
(there may be so good ones I just have found). 
If I can't  find a replacement block at a reasonable price then I will start
searching  for a 'Good' machine shop. 

So first question : 
Anyone  within 300 miles of Dallas TX have a spare block for sale?  


Bob  



Bob, I have seen this technique get a lot of kudos in some of the auto  
restoration magazines I take. The man did it himself.
 
Mike Moore
 
 
_http://www.locknstitch.com/_ (http://www.locknstitch.com/) 
 
Engineering  Manager
CL Moore & Associates, Inc.
17590 Holiday Drive, Morgan Hill,  
California 95037
408-782-1272 fax  408-782-1372
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 21 18:04:31 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 18:04:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Block Crack
In-Reply-To: <ce9.48332756.36803b36@aol.com>
References: <ce9.48332756.36803b36@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0812211704k427c35dbta64381c7c802995d@mail.gmail.com>

My head has been stitched... that is to say, the head on my TR4 has been
stitched.

http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/CrackofDoom.JPG

A machinist I trust pronounced it sound when he did the hardened seats...
but added even he doesn't do this sort of repair.

Geo




On Sun, Dec 21, 2008 at 5:37 PM, <MMoore8425 at aol.com> wrote:

>
> Bob, I have seen this technique get a lot of kudos in some of the auto
> restoration magazines I take. The man did it himself.
>
> Mike Moore

From lisa at josephvincelli.com  Mon Dec 22 15:29:43 2008
From: lisa at josephvincelli.com (Lisa Richardson)
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 16:29:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <EA7FE7EF617C4A78A0FC73B5B2EB4D6C@LisaRichardsPC>

Hello all,
 
In the middle, not really middle, of my 57 TR3 restoration and finding my
frame is not as good as once thought. Best to replace or look for a parts
car for the other things that will prove not cost effective. Anyone in or
around the Dallas area with a parts car or frame they want to part with?
 
Appreciate all your help.
 
Lisa R. Vincelli
972-345-5051
 
You may respond off list or call. lisa at josephvincelli.com

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Dec 22 16:45:49 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 23:45:49 -0000
Subject: [TR] Greetings one and all
Message-ID: <C907033FCD2E49C6B88AC97825B635BE@Bevan>

Over the ten + years I've been reading the daily missives from these lists, I've never known it so 
late before the usual Christmas Greetings have started going out. Maybe list janitors have put a 
block on them and surely I can't be the first?
So, if they haven't filtered Seasons Greeting notes to the trash-can, a very Happy Christmas to you 
and your families - and I greatly look forward to being able to put many faces to names as I 
complete my Canada and U.S. odyssey next year. Being now completely Triumph-less, I'm also looking 
forward to reading (in a few days time) of how many 'best beloveds' have invested in bottom end 
gasket sets, reliable flasher units, non-squeaking clutch release bearings, 6-3-1 exhaust 
manifolds - and other 'essentialatum' for you all.
Therefore, "Happy Christmas" and remember, whatever you do over the holiday that you enjoy, it's 
probably a sin :)

Jonmac


Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Dec 22 17:27:07 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 19:27:07 EST
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Greetings one and all
Message-ID: <cc3.38196f0a.36818a5b@aol.com>

. . . and on earth peace, good will toward  men.   A News Years resolution 
for everyone.   Happy Holidays.    
 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. The NEW 
AOL.com.(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000019)

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Dec 22 18:56:28 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 18:56:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Greetings one and all
In-Reply-To: <C907033FCD2E49C6B88AC97825B635BE@Bevan>
References: <C907033FCD2E49C6B88AC97825B635BE@Bevan>
Message-ID: <36CB5616EB0149E18C830CE6941B3DAC@newcomputer>

John,
Perhaps the economy is so bad that most people are not feeling particularly
festive this year.

Being unemployed myself, I can certainly vouch for the dismal feelings that
are accompanying this holiday season.

But I try to make the best of it and will be having both my kids and their
families here this year.  So it can't be all bad.

Cheers,
Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 16:46
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; 6-Pack
Subject: [Spits] Greetings one and all

Over the ten + years I've been reading the daily missives from these lists,
I've never known it so 
late before the usual Christmas Greetings have started going out. Maybe list
janitors have put a 
block on them and surely I can't be the first?
So, if they haven't filtered Seasons Greeting notes to the trash-can, a very
Happy Christmas to you 
and your families - and I greatly look forward to being able to put many
faces to names as I 
complete my Canada and U.S. odyssey next year. Being now completely
Triumph-less, I'm also looking 
forward to reading (in a few days time) of how many 'best beloveds' have
invested in bottom end 
gasket sets, reliable flasher units, non-squeaking clutch release bearings,
6-3-1 exhaust 
manifolds - and other 'essentialatum' for you all.
Therefore, "Happy Christmas" and remember, whatever you do over the holiday
that you enjoy, it's 
probably a sin :)

Jonmac


Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Dec 22 19:47:43 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 21:47:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Greetings one and all
In-Reply-To: <C907033FCD2E49C6B88AC97825B635BE@Bevan>
Message-ID: <49500AFF.1237.50ADCD0@localhost>

On 22 Dec 2008 at 23:45, John Macartney wrote:

> Over the ten + years I've been reading the daily missives
> from these lists, I've never known it so late before the
> usual Christmas Greetings have started going out.

Wha'??  Whoa, it's December already!!

The truth is, John, it's been an exhausting season for at least some 
places this side of The Pond.  Some of us are still shoveling snow 
from last week, some are still without electricity, some are still 
digging out from forest fires.  Some are without jobs at all, and 
many of us are looking at a receding retirement horizon.  I think a 
few places still have some campaign posters scattered about, and even 
a few unresolved elections.  A time-out would be good about now.

Nevertheless, thank you for bringing it up, and thanks to all of you 
for being cyber-friends and offering so much advice.  It's good to 
pause every so often and look around at our blessings.  May your 
future be Triumphant!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Dec 22 20:09:12 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 22:09:12 EST
Subject: [TR] Greetings one and all
Message-ID: <c7f.1e17b69e.3681b058@aol.com>

. . .Joyful and TRiumphant,
Oh come ye, oh come ye,
to au - autox.
Come and behold it,
leaks and clunks and Lucas smoke,
Oh come let us repair it,
Oh come let us repair it,
Oh come let us repair it,
Un-til we're broke.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. The NEW 
AOL.com.(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000019)

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Dec 22 21:01:36 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 23:01:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Greetings one and all
In-Reply-To: <c7f.1e17b69e.3681b058@aol.com>
Message-ID: <49501C50.12902.54E80FA@localhost>

On 22 Dec 2008 at 22:09, DLylis at aol.com wrote:

> . . .Joyful and TRiumphant,

Hark, the Herald axles swing!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue Dec 23 12:33:11 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 12:33:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Greetings one and all
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1230058801.14457.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1230058801.14457.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D990D3DD-FDA2-4B68-B74A-A5A561450D22@telus.net>

Hello all
  With the fervent hope that you and yours will enjoy at the very  
least, a quiet time of reflection and cameraderie, I send you  
greetings of the season. Whatever you celebrate, may you find joy in  
the little pleasures of family, friends and community, including and  
especially this one.

Today has been one of reflection for I have just  become aware of an  
organization that facilitates, on a  person to person basis, micro  
loans to small entrepreneurs around the world. If, like me, you are  
weary of the over consumption that typifies this season and would  
like to cycle a small amount of money through many hands thereby  
changing many lives, please have a look at:

http://www.pbs.org/frontlineworld/stories/uganda601/video_index.html
and

  www.kiva.org   .

Go in peace,  stay in peace      (African parting sentiment.)

From coefront at shaw.ca  Tue Dec 23 13:02:45 2008
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 13:02:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Christmas Greetings
Message-ID: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDMEFHDFAA.coefront@shaw.ca>

Regarding Christmas greetings. No matter how terrible a Christmas this year
has struck people economic wise (myself now retired and subject to a sever
drop in income from my retirement funds), we must look to health as being
the most important thing. Without it we go no where. And as to inexpensive
entertainment, I'm using my house far more than ever before (after all it's
a monthly cost I'm to this date able to afford, so why not!); and far more
excursing by using the walks in the parks around the neighbourhood. And
thank heavens my TR is paid for: as I'm positive I couldn't afford to buy
one today. But....so it's driven only occasionally because of economics!, I
still have tons of fun fiddling about the car. Plus there's the additional
exercise I get from crawling around and in it! The moral: stay healthy
everyone, to look forward to economic improvement over the coming years.
Heath will afford that. And to all who're still having lots of
difficulties....I wish I was a philanthropist! But to all a Merry Christmas
and Happy New Year. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca. TR8

From coefront at shaw.ca  Tue Dec 23 13:52:26 2008
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 13:52:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW: Christmas Greetings
Message-ID: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDGEFLDFAA.coefront@shaw.ca>

Correction in the spelling of one word please.
Mike


 -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Coe [mailto:coefront at shaw.ca]
Sent: December 23, 2008 1:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Christmas Greetings

Regarding Christmas greetings. No matter how terrible a Christmas this year
has struck people economic wise (myself now retired and subject to a sever
drop in income from my retirement funds), we must look to health as being
the most important thing. Without it we go no where. And as to inexpensive
entertainment, I'm using my house far more than ever before (after all it's
a monthly cost I'm to this date able to afford, so why not!); and far more
excercise by using the walks in the parks around the neighbourhood. And
thank heavens my TR is paid for: as I'm positive I couldn't afford to buy
one today. But....so it's driven only occasionally because of economics!, I
still have tons of fun fiddling about the car. Plus there's the additional
exercise I get from crawling around and in it! The moral: stay healthy
everyone, to look forward to economic improvement over the coming years.
Heath will afford that. And to all who're still having lots of
difficulties....I wish I was a philanthropist! But to all a Merry Christmas
and Happy New Year. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca. TR8

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Tue Dec 23 14:15:17 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 13:15:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Funniest TR4 clip on YouTube
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0812231315170.20515@hymn34.u.washington.edu>

This makes me smile every single time:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvZthg8VgeM

   I showed it to some friends and they said "That guy is crazy."
   I said "No he isn't; I do the same thing!"  Maybe I am crazy too.

   Regardless, I'm curious to know what he's saying (or singing).  Anybody know the language?

   Happy Holidays, everybody!
-Nick
'62-ish TR4
Seattle

From blanoway at shaw.ca  Tue Dec 23 16:45:50 2008
From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway)
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 17:45:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] Greetings one and all
Message-ID: <35EFE049ADD1403A99DBC74C24BEB5B0@Lanowaylaptop>

I dont know how its come to be, but so far, we seem to have escaped
winters wrath up here in Winterpeg; aka the Great White North.  Its
only going down to minus 31C tonight, but we still have our electricity, the
roads are quite passable and the shopping malls are full of people scooping
up incredible bargains.

I too would like to wish everyone on the List a Merry Christmas and at least
a tolerable 2009.  I would also like to thank everyone for their
contribution of bits of knowledge great and small.  Owning a TR is a lot
easier  and considerably more fun  when you have the power of this mailing
list on the road with you.

Cheers!

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 23 19:50:05 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 21:50:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Funniest TR4 clip on YouTube
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0812231315170.20515@hymn34.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0812231315170.20515@hymn34.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W161A6E50316144B313439BA5ED0@phx.gbl>

> I showed it to some friends and they said "That guy is crazy."> I said "No
he isn't; I do the same thing!" Maybe I am crazy too.> > Regardless, I'm
curious to know what he's saying (or singing). Anybody know the language?> >
Happy Holidays, everybody!> -Nick> '62-ish TR4> Seattle

How jolly he is!

John H.

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Dec 23 21:06:43 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 21:06:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Funniest TR4 clip on YouTube
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0812231315170.20515@hymn34.u.washington.edu>
	<BLU143-W161A6E50316144B313439BA5ED0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4D0A85D64DB742EC85A398017D2C78F7@rolofson>

That's how you get after about the 638th mile of a 700 mile day on the
road...such as traveling to VTR (Richmond 2004).  I'll never do that many
miles again.  I think I did some similar ranting and in that same German
sounding accent as the guy on youtube.  Must have been my Hessian roots coming
out.

Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, and Happy Holidays.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: John Herrera
  To: nwolf at u.washington.edu ; Triumph List
  Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 7:50 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Funniest TR4 clip on YouTube


  > I showed it to some friends and they said "That guy is crazy."> I said
"No
  he isn't; I do the same thing!" Maybe I am crazy too.> > Regardless, I'm
  curious to know what he's saying (or singing). Anybody know the language?>
>
  Happy Holidays, everybody!> -Nick> '62-ish TR4> Seattle

  How jolly he is!

  John H.
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Tue Dec 23 21:18:21 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 20:18:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard top FS
Message-ID: <4951B80D.1030507@razzolink.com>

The county decided that there are too many houses on the property I live 
on (10 acres, 5 residences on property zoned one residence per 10 
acres).  As A result I'm dealing with a 60 day county mandated eviction. 
I'm packing stuff & trying to sell some stuff go get moving money.

Here's some stuff up for sale:

- Factory steel TR3 hard top $300.  This is the steel top with the 
stainless steel door trip parts.  It needs new seals and rear window.  
It needs to be stripped, dipped or media blasted (its been stored in a 
leaky shed) and there is a  3 inch wide, about an inch high section 
along the bottom that  needs to be cut out and new metal welded in 
because of rust.

The hard top is located between Santa Cruz, Monterey & Salinas California.

-  Factory lug wrench $25

- Factory overdrive switch (not aftermarket).  Needs repainting $20

I have a 4X5 colour dark room for sale including Saunders enlarger, 
Illford Illfachrome printer & more.  Also studio lighting, light boxes, 
stand alone light table & more.  Also my backup Pentax 67 medium format 
camera  Inquire if interested.

Teriann
www.tjwakeman.net/TR/index.htm

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Dec 24 07:14:51 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 09:14:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Greetings
Message-ID: <200812240914.51869.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

To all on both lists a very Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah and the best of 
the New Year.

I would like to thank all the members of both lists that have helped along the 
way.

I cant think of a finer bunch of guys and gals, who through these lists and 
the love of their Triumphs, have become such close friends.

I hope the New Year brings us closer together and some day I hope to meet some 
of  you in person for a change.

It is early, but I am trying to work towards a first visit to TRF's summer 
party this year.

Again the best of wishes for the Holidays.

Bob Labuz

1958 TR3A (pale yellow)
1963 TR4 (spa white)
1972 TR6 Project (currently brown but will be French Blue eventhough not a 
valid color for the 72 year) but should look nice next to the 3 and 4.

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Wed Dec 24 07:27:26 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 09:27:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Holiday Greetings
Message-ID: <023601c965d3$bf6fcd90$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Hello all
In keeping with the spirit of the season and reflecting over the past year
with all the ups and downs, I now find my self appreciating those things that
always seem to survive the test of time and these times were most  testing.
That most tested joy being the closeness of friends and those who we share the
little pleasures in life with.  For all of you who are experiencing the storms
of the past week in the north, I wish you safe travels, warmth and comfort and
for the many of us who once knew what snow was really like, (Florida Natives)
coupled with the cold, gloves, scarves, hats, long Johns and Jeans and
anything else stuffed underneath, please enjoy and have a very Merry
Christmas, Happy Hanukkah and a Healthy & Prosperous New Year.

Alex Manzo

From L1J1S at aol.com  Wed Dec 24 07:44:48 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 09:44:48 EST
Subject: [TR] greetings
Message-ID: <d1f.3cf5ccbc.3683a4e0@aol.com>

to the list, just want to take a moment to wish all of you and your  families 
a happy holiday and a happy new year. hopefully we will see some better  
times down the tunnel when the new year settles in. thank all of you for your  
advice and directions in answering all of my questions. regards,  larry  schwartz
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Dec 24 10:47:45 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 17:47:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard top FS
Message-ID: <122420081747.23262.495275C1000AF0A800005ADE22155751149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman at razzolink.com>
> The county decided that there are too many houses on the property I live 
> on (10 acres, 5 residences on property zoned one residence per 10 
> acres).  As A result I'm dealing with a 60 day county mandated eviction. 

That's outrageous.  Did all of these houses get building permits when they were constructed?

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From lee at automate-it.com  Wed Dec 24 13:06:25 2008
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 14:06:25 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Funniest TR4 clip on YouTube
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0812231315170.20515@hymn34.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0812231315170.20515@hymn34.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <1250.192.246.38.159.1230149185.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

> Regardless, I'm curious to know what he's saying (or singing).  Anybody
> know the language?

I sounded like Dutch to me, and sure enough,
if you go to his profile
( http://www.youtube.com/user/JWdG011 )
you'll see that he's 51 and located in The
Netherlands. But I don't know what he's saying
either, except that it sounds like he exclaims
"three thousand two hundred" twice when he
points the camera at the tach.

 - Lee

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Wed Dec 24 14:35:39 2008
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 16:35:39 EST
Subject: [TR] GT6 Transmission Kit
Message-ID: <bc1.45411354.3684052b@aol.com>

All,
Has anyone tried the Quantum Mechanics transmission retrofit?  If so,  what 
has been your experiances?
 
TIA
Happy Holidays
 
Sam and Carol Clark
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Wed Dec 24 15:13:51 2008
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 17:13:51 EST
Subject: [TR] magazine cover
Message-ID: <bed.314660f6.36840e1f@aol.com>

I just received the February issue of "Hemmings Sports & Exotic  Car" in the 
mail yesterday. There's a good looking yellow TR6 on the cover being  driven 
by a guy familiar to the list. That's a nice car Bob Danielson! There's  also 
an article comparing a Sprite, Mini, Midget, and a Spitfire owned by Brian  
Nickerson. Is Brian on the list?
 
This is a publication that should be of interest to most everyone on the  
list as there is always some LBC content, and the cars that are featured are  
cars we can relate to. Members of the editorial staff own Triumphs including a  
TR3, a GT6, and a couple of Spitfires. There is also a monthly columnist by  
the name of Mike Cook who can tell a good story. A magazine worth checking  out.
 
Happy Holidays!
 
Eric Langreder
71 TR6
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Dec 24 16:00:10 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 18:00:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] magazine cover
In-Reply-To: <bed.314660f6.36840e1f@aol.com>
References: <bed.314660f6.36840e1f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <945171F671C74E33A5D499C26A3C8E00@BOBSNEWPC>

OMG..............they told me that they had a pleasant surprise but I had no
idea that we'd be on the cover! What a nice Christmas present.......and I
haven't gotten my issue yet.

Thanks for letting me know.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ElangTR4 at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 5:14 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] magazine cover

I just received the February issue of "Hemmings Sports & Exotic  Car" in the
mail yesterday. There's a good looking yellow TR6 on the cover being  driven
by a guy familiar to the list. That's a nice car Bob Danielson! There's
also an article comparing a Sprite, Mini, Midget, and a Spitfire owned by
Brian Nickerson. Is Brian on the list?
 
This is a publication that should be of interest to most everyone on the
list as there is always some LBC content, and the cars that are featured are
cars we can relate to. Members of the editorial staff own Triumphs including
a TR3, a GT6, and a couple of Spitfires. There is also a monthly columnist
by the name of Mike Cook who can tell a good story. A magazine worth
checking  out.
 
Happy Holidays!
 
Eric Langreder
71 TR6

From triumph.driver at gmail.com  Wed Dec 24 16:07:44 2008
From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 18:07:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rebuilt TR4A IRS Hubs
Message-ID: <33E692F937C14A3FB95FED84C84E2556@chuck>

There's a guy on eBay (Harolds TriumphMG Parts) in Indian Valley, Idaho,
selling reconditioned TR4A IRS hubs (item #390004538058).  Anyone know
anything about him?  I'm in need of two hubs and the new ones we got from
Moss aren't usable (at $579 each retail).
 
Chuck White
Xenia, OH
1965 TR4A IRS
1970 GT6+

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Dec 24 16:19:19 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 18:19:19 EST
Subject: [TR] Rebuilt TR4A IRS Hubs
Message-ID: <bf3.49658cf2.36841d77@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/24/2008 3:08:37 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
triumph.driver at gmail.com writes:

I'm in  need of two hubs and the new ones we got from
Moss aren't usable (at $579  each retail).



Wow! 
What's wrong with them?
 
Mike Moore 
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From don at napanet.net  Wed Dec 24 16:57:57 2008
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 15:57:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] buying a TR4 question
In-Reply-To: <4951B80D.1030507@razzolink.com>
References: <4951B80D.1030507@razzolink.com>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20081224154649.03249c60@pop.napanet.net>

>Hello TR list!

I'm still seeking a car.  I have looked at several, some pretty nice ones, 
but none quite what I wanted.  There is one on eBay right now in Florida 
that looks like what I want.  I am a long ways away in California.  The 
shipping costs may make it undoable, and logistics are an issue.  The owner 
is very forthcoming with information and the photos indicate it is a very 
nice car.

I have a question for the list-

It is a 1967 TR4A and has been fitted with a TR6 gearbox.  Does this affect 
originality in terms of price, and does it affect the car iftself in terms 
of its installation?  (was butchering necessary to make this swap?)  This 
kind of swap is done on MGBs; a later gearbox is often found in an early 
B.  Purists cry foul, but others say a 1st gear synchro makes it worth it.

Here is 
link: 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130277315331

Thanks!
Don Scott
Calistoga CA
'91 Miata BRG
1962 MGA Mk II
1992 Integra GSR



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.0/1863 - Release Date: 12/24/2008 11:49 AM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 24 17:11:00 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 16:11:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] buying a TR4 question
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20081224154649.03249c60@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <20081225001100.YSR24847.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> It is a 1967 TR4A and has been fitted with a TR6 gearbox.  
> Does this affect originality in terms of price, and does it 
> affect the car iftself in terms of its installation?  

I'm not a purist, so can't really comment on the impact on price; except
that it seems unlikely to me to play much of a part.  Maybe for a totally
original car, but not a restored one.  The numbers didn't match even when
the cars were new, so you'd have to get a build record to even know if you
had the right transmission or not.

Physically, the early TR6 boxes were nearly identical to the TR4A (both had
synchro on first).  Might need longer bolts (the front flange got thicker at
some point), but otherwise should drop right in.  The later TR6 boxes did
have some changes to be compensated for, but nothing that requires permanent
changes to the car unless it has a J-type overdrive.  The 4A shift lever was
probably different, but it will fit the later transmissions.

Randall - with a mid-TR6 box in a TR3A.

From L1J1S at aol.com  Wed Dec 24 17:21:49 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 19:21:49 EST
Subject: [TR] buying a TR4 question
Message-ID: <c5b.382b9a46.36842c1d@aol.com>

hello, if you are a purist i would say yes it does affect the value of the  
car. if the owner has the original tranny, then that is another story. the  
tranny can be switched out anytime. i just finished restoring my tr3-a, and i  
went the route of keeping it original. although, i did install a judson  
supercharger w/o altering the car. all the original parts that were removed to  
install the supercharger have been carefully put away in the event i want to go  
back to the original form. just my two cents worth. happy holidays, larry  
schwartz
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Wed Dec 24 18:56:48 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 20:56:48 EST
Subject: [TR] Rebuilt TR4A IRS Hubs
Message-ID: <bce.404c282f.36844260@aol.com>

Chuck:
I would have thought that Mark Macy in New Carlisle, OH or TRF would be a 
closer  option for you plus you probably will get quality assurances.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana


**************
Don't be the last to know - click here for the 
latest news that will have people talking. 
(http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000021)

From triumph.driver at gmail.com  Wed Dec 24 19:40:10 2008
From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 21:40:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rebuilt TR4A IRS Hubs
In-Reply-To: <bf3.49658cf2.36841d77@aol.com>
Message-ID: <43A147A7748546C796057D65B7DD24ED@chuck>

The new ones that came from Moss have been jammed down on the spindles so
hard that they won't turn.  If they didn't pay attention to the correct end
float when they were assembled, how can I be sure they even packed the
bearings?  They're being returned.
 
Chuck

-----Original Message-----
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com [mailto:MMoore8425 at aol.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 6:19 PM
To: triumph.driver at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Rebuilt TR4A IRS Hubs



In a message dated 12/24/2008 3:08:37 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
triumph.driver at gmail.com writes:

I'm in need of two hubs and the new ones we got from
Moss aren't usable (at $579 each retail).


Wow! 
What's wrong with them?
 
Mike Moore 

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Dec 24 21:28:26 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 23:28:26 EST
Subject: [TR] buying a TR4 question
Message-ID: <cbf.2f0216e7.368465ea@aol.com>

This car has modifications other than the tranny.  The yellow fan is a  TR6 
and the valve cover is alloy and not original.  These are easy to  change back 
but. . .if changes like this were made then it is likely that the  kind of 
attention to originality that you seem concerned with, is not  there.  IMHO you 
will find other things as well as the description uses the  word "updates" in a 
couple of places.  That is  not to say this is not  a nice car.  It appears 
to be a very nice car.  If you want a very  nice driver that is one thing.  If 
you are expecting an original concourse  car, well that is something else.  I 
think this car is in Orlando as the  address is somewhere I am familiar with 
in Orlando but the spelling is different  than I know.  As well, the car has 
Alabama plates.  I would check  that out.
As to shipping, I would call FedEx and get a quote.  It may not be as  much 
as you think and insuring it for the trip is only a few hundred.
Maybe someone else on the list has a sense for the value of this car.   I 
don't.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Don't be the last to know - click here for the latest news that 
will have people talking. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000021)

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Thu Dec 25 07:30:31 2008
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 09:30:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Spare Tire Straps
Message-ID: <BC8F5C3A946841B1AA7307AC34FD6DCB@Scott>

I am completely puzzled on how the spare tire/tool roll straps are
installed. It seems pretty straight forward that the two piece strap, which
has the loop on one end of each piece, must be for the tool roll, with the
buckle being used to secure the roll. What I can't figure out is how the
other piece, the long strap that has the loop on the one end with the buckle
part way up from that end and then the full length with the holes ending
without a loop at the other end. It seems as if the end with the loop must
be secured to the top metal bracket or the bottom one, and then the strap
going somewhere and then through the loop and down to the buckle, but I
cannot for the life of me figure how this would work. Any clear pictures or
explanation would be greatly appreciated.  TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Dec 25 08:03:35 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 10:03:35 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard top FS
Message-ID: <bc8.454a1fbf.3684fac7@aol.com>

Wow Terri.  Talk about a Bah Humbug!  I assume that you have done  your 
homework and I agree with Phil.  
Having worked in development for many years, either a building permit or a  
certificate of occupancy would have had to be issued by the county, or 
governing  body (city, state, etc. where you live).  Had the house been built before  
such zoning was enacted then it is grandfathered.  This is generally the  rule 
and I have rarely (if ever) seen exceptions.  I am not an  attorney.
Unless you don't own the house and the owner is just rolling over for the  
county you could plug up the court system with this until they are sick of  
dealing with it. Find an attorney that will do this Pro  Bono.  (Like a lister 
that has a Triumph, hint, hint) The filings are  simple and the burden of proof 
can be placed on the county. 
For example, if the house was built and occupied with no permits, and been  
there for years and the county has known and you can prove that the county has  
known (permits to supply power, etc) you can jam them up until you are a very 
 old person and don't want to live there any more.  
Most states/counties have pretty obscure real property ownership laws that  
you may find work to your advantage.  For example:  If you use your  neighbors 
property as a right of way, and the neighbor does nothing to stop you,  you 
can file and get a permanent easement to the property as if it was  yours.  The 
period of time that this needs to go on and the method by which  the neighbor 
retains rights during your period of usage varies by jurisdiction,  but most 
(if not all) have these kinds of laws.
As long as you don't have other code violations, or can correct the code  
violations easily I would go for it.  With the mess that governments are in  
today, they will get sick of dealing with it pretty fast, IMHO.
 
Fix your hardtop and use it!
 
Happy Holidays
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Don't be the last to know - click here for the latest news that 
will have people talking. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000021)

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Thu Dec 25 08:24:05 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 07:24:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard top FS
In-Reply-To: <bc8.454a1fbf.3684fac7@aol.com>
References: <bc8.454a1fbf.3684fac7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4953A595.3010607@razzolink.com>

DLylis at aol.com wrote:
> Wow Terri.  Talk about a Bah Humbug!
I'm afraid that this year Christmas is just another item sorting box 
packing day with a better than average meal.  Decorations didn't even 
come out of the box.

>   I assume that you have done your homework and I agree with Phil. 
> Having worked in development for many years, either a building permit 
> or a certificate of occupancy would have had to be issued by the 
> county, or governing body (city, state, etc. where you live).  Had the 
> house been built before such zoning was enacted then it is grandfathered.
I've recently been told the Landlord has quietly (so as not to distress 
the tenants) fought this for about 6 months.  The property is within the 
Monterey bay costal zoning commission area and they are fairly strict.   
They are requiring that the property be be made legal (single residence, 
interiors gutted from buildings built with barn permits BEFORE they will 
entertain any additional residence permits.  At this point the landlords 
have rolled over.

> Fix your hardtop and use it!
I have two TR3 hard tops and hope to sell one.  So far no one is 
interested in restoring the one I have for sale.  Maybe it is just so 
much undesirable junk I've been holding on to thinking it was rare & 
worth something.

Teriann

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 25 08:32:23 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 15:32:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] County eviction!
In-Reply-To: <bc8.454a1fbf.3684fac7@aol.com>
References: <bc8.454a1fbf.3684fac7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W5457FFB35F1023E54302BAE5EA0@phx.gbl>

My memory of the Ca. laws regarding eviction from an illegally constructed
house are a little vague since I haven't encountered this situation for many
years.  However, I seem to recall that if you are evicted from an illegal
house someone owes you some moving expenses at least.  Beyond that if the
landlord rented you an illegal house you can recover all the rents you paid
the landlord and maybe damages to boot.

Call J.D. Wells in Soquel at 475-3561.  He has been my attorney for 20 years
and is a good guy.  Tell him Tom White sent you.

Best regards,

Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass.
http://windowslive.com/oneline/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anywhere
_122008

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Dec 25 08:46:51 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 10:46:51 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard top FS
Message-ID: <d5e.3eef9c14.368504eb@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/25/2008 7:04:48 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  DLylis at aol.
com writes:

For  example:  If you use your  neighbors 
property as a right of way,  and the neighbor does nothing to stop you,  you 
can file and get a  permanent easement to the property as if it was  yours.  
The  
period of time that this needs to go on and the method by which  the  
neighbor 
retains rights during your period of usage varies by  jurisdiction,  but most 
(if not all) have these kinds of  laws.



My neighbor claimed this, but I (like most people)  had title  insurance.
I filed a claim against my title insurance carrier (who had guaranteed I  had 
a clear title). They sent lawyers down to inspect. Their lawyer buried  my 
neighbor in legal work and he chose to withdraw his claim.
Mike Moore .
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From ktnkt at comcast.net  Thu Dec 25 09:49:54 2008
From: ktnkt at comcast.net (KT)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 11:49:54 -0500
Subject: [TR]  magazine cover
Message-ID: <4953B9B2.8020404@comcast.net>

  The Sprite, Midget, Mini and Spitfire shots were taken at the start of 
our clubs annual  Freezin Fun for the Kids Run. This is a charity event 
we have each year, and there's a picture on our home page of the group 
that participated at http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org/   
    Folks local to the New England area may want to check out the 
November newsletter and see if you might be interested in joining our 
local band of troublemakers..... We currently have over 300 members and 
as the newsletter will show, we are a very active group.
  Merry Christmas to all!!!
Kevin Thompson
Cape Cod British Car Club
http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org/

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Thu Dec 25 11:16:13 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 13:16:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Non TR, headlight left-on alarm?
Message-ID: <002301c966bc$dfab7390$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

This question is about my '96 Nissan pickup.

Unfortunately, I forget alot and leave my headlights on after driving (head
injury magnifies my forgetfullness).  From JC Whitney I bought a 'headlight
left on alarm' for about $10.

I've sought to install it and it's only two wires. (Idoit proof?)
It's designed so that it attaches to the light fuses. Either blade or round
type  When the red wire is hooked to either of the two light fuses it
correctly sounds IF THE LIGHTS ARE TURNED ON, it's white wire is suppose to
touch another fuse.  Since I have no other fuse, I touch it to a ground TO
MAKE IT WORK.  HOWEVER, it does not stop alarming when THE KEY SWITCH IS
TURNED ON (like it's suppose to).

The instructions say that if it's an import the red wire will have to go to a
marker light or parking light.
And I did this, and still it won't work correctly via the key switch.
(however, it does alarm when the lights are on).

The fuse box only contains these two fuses and about four relays: Main Relay,
Check relay, horn relay, etc.  One of these might help, I don't know.  Does
somebody out there know?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey



--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 5.8 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Dec 25 11:47:17 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 10:47:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] Non TR, headlight left-on alarm?
In-Reply-To: <002301c966bc$dfab7390$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20081225184717.JMNX24847.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

Paul,

One wire will attach to the light wiring, the other to the ignition wiring.
>From your description, I would guess that the red wire is for the lights,
and the white for ignition.

I don't know much about how your Nissan is wired, but I would guess that the
'main' relay is activated only when the ignition is on.  I would check first
with a test light or voltmeter, to find a point that has power only when the
key is on.

I'm actually planning to add something similar to my Triumph Stag, since my
habit of touching the light switch when leaving the car (to see that the
lights are off) does not work with it's rotary switch.

Randall

From allegrorover at mac.com  Thu Dec 25 11:56:14 2008
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 13:56:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Best Wishes
Message-ID: <7F6D66FA-14E2-44EC-8E3F-8A316BA2E6F6@mac.com>

List,
I wanted to take a minute to say to all Merry Christmas.
I have met a number of you personally and hope to meet more of you as  
my travels get me to the west coast.
I appreciate everyones help advice and interesting comments about the  
Triunphs.
My brother in law is just starting his 59 TR3A project and I hope to  
be as helpful to him as you all were with advice and help. (but I will  
still refer him to the list for help)
Please enjoy the season and good health to all and your families.

Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From triosan at gmail.com  Thu Dec 25 12:26:12 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 11:26:12 -0800
Subject: [TR] Rebuilt TR4A IRS Hubs
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0812251126m10fe91efqc66b2d038601a6fe@mail.gmail.com>

I believe the TR4 IRS hub is the same as a TR6.  In that case anyone wanting
new or rebuilt hubs owes it to themselves and their cars to considerr what
Richard Good is now offering:

http://goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=347.  $379 each and a design
that will not break and can be maintained.

I have written an article for 6-Pack and done lots of work fabricating
Nissan 280 Z axels for my TR6 race car.  Richard now offers a hub and CV
joint unit for about the same price as my cost for making the Nissan ones.
Were I to do it over again I sure wouldjust order his parts.


-- 
Chuck Arnold

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Dec 25 15:18:51 2008
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 17:18:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Rebuilt TR4A IRS Hubs
References: <8cbd782d0812251126m10fe91efqc66b2d038601a6fe@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <33C8FD4DED9B4D288B2619FCD2D7D41A@acer6e40e97492>

Chuck,
I've got his new CVJs sitting in my basement and will be putting them on my 
6 after the first of the year. I'll let ya'all know how it goes!

Bob Danielson


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
To: <MMoore8425 at aol.com>; "Triumph" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "TR list" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Rebuilt TR4A IRS Hubs


>I believe the TR4 IRS hub is the same as a TR6.  In that case anyone 
>wanting
> new or rebuilt hubs owes it to themselves and their cars to considerr what
> Richard Good is now offering:
>
> http://goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=347.  $379 each and a design
> that will not break and can be maintained.
>
> I have written an article for 6-Pack and done lots of work fabricating
> Nissan 280 Z axels for my TR6 race car.  Richard now offers a hub and CV
> joint unit for about the same price as my cost for making the Nissan ones.
> Were I to do it over again I sure wouldjust order his parts.
>
>
> -- 
> Chuck Arnold
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Dec 25 17:34:15 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 19:34:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] progress on the gearbox!
Message-ID: <4953E037.14011.990BA92@localhost>

I'ver started putting things back together.  Got all 49 needle 
bearings in the layshaft, just kidding, there are 50.  Question, does 
anyone have a cut-down layshaft or similar wooden dowel that I could 
buy or borrow?

I'm looking at the brass synchro rings, wondering whether they are 
worn, how to measure them, etc.  Spitbits lists one part number, 4 
required, but the ones on the gearbox are visibly different even if 
nominally the same.  The three small protrusions (not the three big 
ones) on the 2nd gear ring are shorter than on, say, 3rd, and appear 
worn down.  Does this indicate replacement?  Not sure how they should 
be measured.  The 1st ring is much beefier overall.

Nothing else looks problematic at all, which I guess is good.

Tanks,

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Fri Dec 26 06:37:41 2008
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 08:37:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] GT6 Quantum Transmission Options
In-Reply-To: <8CB34D29533003E-11CC-1E@WEBMAIL-DY14.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1DA2DA1CAFEF4B48A8E6B6FBC4CA31F4@4NutballsPC>
	<8CB34D29533003E-11CC-1E@WEBMAIL-DY14.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <DA3683CE83F7493BB21777888BA09800@4NutballsPC>

I recently finished installing a rebuilt transmission and overdrive from
Quantum in my 73 GT6.  The new driveline definitely increases the fun factor
of driving the car; most of my driving is around town, and the car is quicker
off the line.  Previously each gear was quite tall but the car was boggy until
it got to speed.

Making the swap is not technically difficult but it is time consuming.  The
tunnel and all associated hardware obviously has to come out.  The 3.27 diff
has to be swapped out for a 3.89.  Probably your exhaust has to be dropped to
get to the prop shaft, which has to be removed and shortened.  Passenger seat
comes out so you can R+R the original tranny and bell (this part no doubt is
the most, uh ... "fun").  And along with what Quantum supplies in the kit for
the D-type O/D conversion, you'll need to locate and bolt in the different O/D
support plate.  You'll also have to cut back some tunnel sheet metal for
clearance of the overdrive.  Pull the heater hoses, you'll need the clearance.
Speedo will read high unless it's altered.  You get the idea.

If I were to do this again I think I would seriously consider Quantum's Ford
5-speed conversion kit.  Especially if you prioritize driving over
originality.  The 5-speed elminates several potential problem areas, since
there is no associated wiring, switch or solenoid.  And the final drive ratio
of the Ford is better for the highway than that of the O/D.  Whichever route
you go, buy the best differential you can find.  You don't want to do all this
work and then find you have to listen to the new diff whine at higher speeds
... but if you do, I find that 85-140 gear oil with some Lucas oil stabilizer
cuts it down tremendously.  Good luck ...

--
Martin Secrest
73 GT6
72 TR6
Arlington, VA
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: trdoctor at aol.com
  To: moira.secrest at verizon.net
  Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 1:06 PM
  Subject: Re: Quantum


  I was interested in the Ford transmission, but, am considering the core
rebuild that you have performed.  Any info is appreciated.

  Sam


  -----Original Message-----
  From: M. Secrest <moira.secrest at verizon.net>
  To: TRDOCTOR at aol.com
  Sent: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 11:04 am
  Subject: Quantum


  Which transmission from Quantum do you mean?  He fits a Ford 5-speed to GT6
I believe.  Recently I finished installing one of his core rebuilds, adding an
overdrive in the process to my car.  I can relate that experience if you're
interested.

  --
  Martin Secrest
  73 GT6
  72 TR6
  Arlington, VA


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  Listen to 350+ music, sports, & news radio stations - including songs for
the holidays - FREE while you browse. Start Listening Now!

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Fri Dec 26 09:12:25 2008
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 11:12:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] GT6 Quantum Transmission Options
In-Reply-To: <8CB358A14B13746-1290-F3B@WEBMAIL-MB05.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1DA2DA1CAFEF4B48A8E6B6FBC4CA31F4@4NutballsPC><8CB34D29533003E-11CC-1E@WEBMAIL-DY14.sysops.aol.com>
	<DA3683CE83F7493BB21777888BA09800@4NutballsPC>
	<8CB358A14B13746-1290-F3B@WEBMAIL-MB05.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <69B27B157A5640A8956656B40229AB0C@4NutballsPC>

My pleasure ... my O/d conversion started out as a simple u-joint repair, with
serious shipwright's setting in.  I have younger kids and do some racing so
the GT6 sat for a long time.  Glad I did it though and the car and I are
getting reacquainted again.   While you're at it, I think it's a no-brainer to
replace the clutch, throwout bearing, prop shaft u-joints, and whatever else
you can service while the tranny is out.  You should also turn the flywheel; I
thought about lightening mine but ultimately did not.  Looking back I probably
should have just spent the ~$500 for that upgrade.  I had to borrow a friend's
500-foot-pound impact wrench to get the flywheel main nut off, just FYI.

If you want to stay strictly original, you'll need the different gear shift
knob with the built in O/D switch.  They are hard to find.  I saw one on eBay
a while ago, but they don't come up often.  Quantum provides a steering column
stalk, not exactly original.  One thing you don't have to worry about is the
external badging -- the GT6 never said "Overdrive" on the car even when one
was fitted.


  ----- Original Message -----
  From: trdoctor at aol.com
  To: moira.secrest at verizon.net
  Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 10:59 AM
  Subject: Re: GT6 Quantum Transmission Options


  Thanks for the feedback!!  The originality thing is what I am grappling
with.  I have shown a XJS and TR6 for years in concours.  The only thing that
might be unusual about this GT6 could be the Shadow Blue interior.  Other than
that, I'm ready to do something fun with the car.  I am seriously considering
the Ford conversion.

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri Dec 26 14:20:22 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 13:20:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clutch Master cylinder (.70 vs .75)
References: <mailman.5.1230231601.19427.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <006c01c9679f$c34a0980$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hello List,
I have read (somewhere?) that the earlier master cylinders (,75) vs. later
(.70) provide greater throw or ease of operation.
Is this true and a viable reason to use a .75 in a 1970? I'd like to give my
left knee all the consideration possible. :~)
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.11420
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 26 13:15:13 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 12:15:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clutch Master cylinder (.70 vs .75)
In-Reply-To: <006c01c9679f$c34a0980$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <20081226201513.DPCB11972.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I have read (somewhere?) that the earlier master cylinders 
> (,75) vs. later
> (.70) provide greater throw or ease of operation.

It's the other way around, a smaller diameter MC gives lower pedal force,
and more pedal travel for the same motion at the slave.

> Is this true and a viable reason to use a .75 in a 1970? 

If you have a .75, then switching to a .70 will reduce pedal effort by about
12%.  Whether that is worthwhile depends on your knee (and pocketbook).
Note that some folk have trouble with insufficient travel at the slave when
using a .70 MC; so the rest of the system needs to be in good shape.  You
might consider one of Ted S's braided lines at the same time, as it should
reduce lost motion due to the original plastic line swelling under pressure.

> I'd like to give my left knee all the consideration possible.

Research done by several people seems to indicate that many vendors are
selling the wrong, much too stiff, pressure plate for the TR6.  If your car
has one of these installed, then the only reasonable cure is to replace it
with the correct unit.  See for example
http://www.mntriumphs.org/Tech_Info/Clutch%20Folder/clutch.pdf
and
http://tinyurl.com/927hr2

IMO, replacing the stock steel bushings for the clutch shaft with the wider
brass ones from a TR3-4; plus adding zerks so they can be greased
occasionally; will also help with reducing pedal effort.  An occasional drop
of oil on all the pivot points wouldn't hurt either.

HTH
Randall

From wmpless at iprimus.ca  Fri Dec 26 15:10:31 2008
From: wmpless at iprimus.ca (Wiard Pless)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 17:10:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] rear crank seal on a TR4A engine - from Cosmo Kramer
Message-ID: <49555657.3080704@iprimus.ca>

Happy Holidays List!
I'm sending this E-mail on behalf of Cosmo Kramer, being that he is 
still _*not* on line_ at his home & dropped off the list for some time. 
He is able to do some 'back reading' of the TRIUMPH Digest which I send 
to him about every 3 months. So you are still in his heart & mind with 
your E-mailings. THEREFORE: PLEASE send your replies to me - 
wmpless at iprimus.ca.

Cosmo's questions are:
1- What is the best way to set the Rear Engine Seal on his TR4A? When I 
rebuilt the engine, I followed the Factory Manual to the letter. I have 
the Mandrel made to the factory specifications & then proceed to follow 
the operation to setting the REAR MAIN SEAL. After a while, I noticed 
that it was leaking. Then I read on the TRIUMPH Digest List that the 
factory specifications where WRONG!
 
2- What IS the *CORRECT* dimension that the Mandrel should be for the 
_Wet Sleeve Engine_?
 
3- I was planning on leaving the Crankshaft in the engine (engine is out 
of the Garage Queen NOW  - my TR4A), because I really don't want to have 
to remove the Front Engine Plate, then remove the Crankshaft. Loosening 
the outside bolts & moving that (original) seal  in against the 
Crankshaft. Followed by tighten the outside bolts & calling it done.
What is the list's input on this? Please be specific on this reply.
 
4- If I have to remove the crankshaft, is it a good idea to repack the 
felt into the engine DRY, as one of my Healy friend has mentioned?
 
5- Any 'secrets' you may have on how to stop this Rear Main Seal from 
leaking, would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!
 
I really miss not being on the list, but my E-mail box would be packed 
if I was, being that I have to go to the Library to read my mail. TIA,
-Cosmo Kramer

From don at napanet.net  Sat Dec 27 00:14:08 2008
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 23:14:08 -0800
Subject: [TR] Latest issue of Sports & Exotic magazine
In-Reply-To: <33C8FD4DED9B4D288B2619FCD2D7D41A@acer6e40e97492>
References: <8cbd782d0812251126m10fe91efqc66b2d038601a6fe@mail.gmail.com>
	<33C8FD4DED9B4D288B2619FCD2D7D41A@acer6e40e97492>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20081226225326.0384ce18@pop.napanet.net>

>Hello TR list!

I just received the latest (Feb 2009) issue of Sports & Exotic 
magazine.  This issue seems to have about 50% of its articles devoted to 
Triumph.  If you are into Triumphs, this is a must read.  The cover story 
is on the updating of a TR6; another story inside is on the 
updating/rstoration of a TR8 coupe; and the other TR related article is of 
a review/comparison of Spitfire, Sprite, Mini, and Midget.

They really do a good job on this magazine.  It is descended from the old 
Hemmings Special Interest Autos which split into this magazine for imported 
cars and Hemmings Classic Car for old American cars.  I spend about ten 
minutes looking at the new issues of Road & Track when they arrive.  I have 
subscribed to R&T since I was a kid, and have 'em back to the late 
'40s.  However, the current incarnation is boring.  When the Hemmings 
magazines arrive, I must spend hours reading them.

Don Scott
Calistoga CA
'91 Miata BRG
1962 MGA Mk II
1992 Integra GSR
1962 TR4 (don't have yet) 


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.0/1863 - Release Date: 12/24/2008 11:49 AM

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Dec 27 06:32:06 2008
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 08:32:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Latest issue of Sports & Exotic magazine
References: <8cbd782d0812251126m10fe91efqc66b2d038601a6fe@mail.gmail.com><33C8FD4DED9B4D288B2619FCD2D7D41A@acer6e40e97492>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20081226225326.0384ce18@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <375C5A2BA1534AB392F1414C3A5F585E@acer6e40e97492>

Don,
While I haven't received my copy as yet, I'm quite familiar with the yellow 
TR6 in the upgrade article ;-) Hopefully when I get home from the Xmas visit 
with the grandkids, the issue will be waiting for me and I can fill everyone 
in on how this came about and the photo shoot........which was a blast to 
do.

Bob Danielson
1975 Mimosa TR6
Running with TBI, Toyota 5 speed &
Nissan Differential



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "don" <don at napanet.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 2:14 AM
Subject: [TR] Latest issue of Sports & Exotic magazine


> >Hello TR list!
>
> I just received the latest (Feb 2009) issue of Sports & Exotic magazine. 
> This issue seems to have about 50% of its articles devoted to Triumph.  If 
> you are into Triumphs, this is a must read.  The cover story is on the 
> updating of a TR6; another story inside is on the updating/rstoration of a 
> TR8 coupe; and the other TR related article is of a review/comparison of 
> Spitfire, Sprite, Mini, and Midget.
>
> They really do a good job on this magazine.  It is descended from the old 
> Hemmings Special Interest Autos which split into this magazine for 
> imported cars and Hemmings Classic Car for old American cars.  I spend 
> about ten minutes looking at the new issues of Road & Track when they 
> arrive.  I have subscribed to R&T since I was a kid, and have 'em back to 
> the late '40s.  However, the current incarnation is boring.  When the 
> Hemmings magazines arrive, I must spend hours reading them.
>
> Don Scott
> Calistoga CA
> '91 Miata BRG
> 1962 MGA Mk II
> 1992 Integra GSR
> 1962 TR4 (don't have yet)
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.0/1863 - Release 
> Date: 12/24/2008 11:49 AM
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Dec 27 07:20:16 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 09:20:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] 'itsy-bitsy visability'
Message-ID: <007601c9682e$3e6cc5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Worldwide research studies prove that driving with low-beam headlights on
during daylight hours reduces multi-vehicle crashes by up to 30%. But unitl
now, forgetting to turn headlights off when the engine is stopped often means
costly dead batteries.

The above is a quote from  www.liteminder.com
I am trying to figure it out for my Nissan as a method for remembering to cut
my headlights off.  This company also sells the 'Headlight left-on Reminder'
thru JC Whitney for about $10.

However, our TR's suffer from 'itsy-bitsy visability.'  At their website, this
liteminder company has various models; one that automatically turns the
headlights on, I think.

Paul Dorsey

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 5.8 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Dec 27 07:56:28 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 14:56:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] 'itsy-bitsy visability'
In-Reply-To: <007601c9682e$3e6cc5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <007601c9682e$3e6cc5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W793F772E84A82F850CF3FE5E80@phx.gbl>

When I bought my last new car I went to So. Ca., from Santa Cruz, to buy it.
None of the dealers in my area had a model with the automatic light turn on
and delay off feature.  I have had this feature on my last two cars and it is
a relief to never have to worry about leaving my lights on.  Now with the new
law from last year I do have to remember to turn the lights on when I operate
my windshield wipers.  And when I get out of the car the busser goes off to
remind me the lights are on.

Best regards,

Tom



> From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 09:20:16 -0500
> Subject: [TR] 'itsy-bitsy visability'
>
> Worldwide research studies prove that driving with low-beam headlights on
> during daylight hours reduces multi-vehicle crashes by up to 30%. But unitl
> now, forgetting to turn headlights off when the engine is stopped often
means
> costly dead batteries.
>
> The above is a quote from  www.liteminder.com
> I am trying to figure it out for my Nissan as a method for remembering to
cut
> my headlights off.  This company also sells the 'Headlight left-on
Reminder'
> thru JC Whitney for about $10.
>
> However, our TR's suffer from 'itsy-bitsy visability.'  At their website,
this
> liteminder company has various models; one that automatically turns the
> headlights on, I think.
>
> Paul Dorsey
>
> --
> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
> We are a community of 5.8 million users fighting spam.
> SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date.
> Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
>
> The Professional version does not have this message
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Its the same Hotmail.. If by same you mean up to 70% faster.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad1_12
2008

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Dec 27 08:06:52 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 08:06:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] 'itsy-bitsy visability'
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W793F772E84A82F850CF3FE5E80@phx.gbl>
References: <007601c9682e$3e6cc5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<BAY110-W793F772E84A82F850CF3FE5E80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0812270706k12326445s3dd0a6e00cccfe92@mail.gmail.com>

My old VW simply has the headlights powered by a circuit controlled by the
ignition switch... i.e. when you switch the engine off the headlights also
go off.

I realize this is not as elegant a solution as discussed (e.g. parking
lights remain on until you turn them off at the headlamp switch) but it does
preclude running the battery down by leaving the headlamps on.

Geo

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Dec 27 09:22:05 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 11:22:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
Message-ID: <003601c9683f$42e39810$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Well its Sat morning and the Facet pump is being installed on my 59 TR3A.
Needed to get the fittings and filter which I now have. In short order I will
be wiring it up. Great instructions on wiring to the hot side of the coil or
white wire. So what's the problem? The wire from the harness is white and the
replacement TRF coil wire to the distributor is white. So which one is
considered hot. From the harness it comes from the ignition switch which could
be considered hot. Or from the coil to the distributor could be considered
hot. Any help on this one would be appreciated.
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sat Dec 27 09:31:35 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 11:31:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
In-Reply-To: <003601c9683f$42e39810$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <003601c9683f$42e39810$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W31C5AF19A3284595BCB884A5E80@phx.gbl>

> Well its Sat morning and the Facet pump is being installed on my 59 TR3A.>
Needed to get the fittings and filter which I now have. In short order I will>
be wiring it up. Great instructions on wiring to the hot side of the coil or>
white wire. So what's the problem? The wire from the harness is white and the>
replacement TRF coil wire to the distributor is white. So which one is>
considered hot. From the harness it comes from the ignition switch which
could> be considered hot. Or from the coil to the distributor could be
considered> hot. Any help on this one would be appreciated.> Alex Manzo> 59
TR3A

I would consider the wire from the switch to the coil to be hot.

Hot just means the power or ungrounded side.

John

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Dec 27 09:41:05 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 11:41:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
In-Reply-To: <003601c9683f$42e39810$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <003601c9683f$42e39810$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <200812271141.05951.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 27 December 2008 11:22:05 Alex wrote:
> Well its Sat morning and the Facet pump is being installed on my 59 TR3A.
> Needed to get the fittings and filter which I now have. In short order I
> will be wiring it up. Great instructions on wiring to the hot side of the
> coil or white wire. So what's the problem? The wire from the harness is
> white and the replacement TRF coil wire to the distributor is white. So
> which one is considered hot. From the harness it comes from the ignition
> switch which could be considered hot. Or from the coil to the distributor
> could be considered hot. Any help on this one would be appreciated.
> Alex Manzo
> 59 TR3A
Alex,

The white wire off the harness is ignition switch HOT.

On a + ground TR, that wire goes to the - terminal of the coil.

If you have a spade coil, you should have 2 male space terminals at the coil.

Connect  the - (black) wire from the facet pump to the terminal of the coil 
where the white wire attaches coming off the harness. The wire that goes to 
the distributor may also be white but will be attached to the + side of the 
coil. Dont hook up the pump hot wire to this side. I put a fuse between the 
lucar terminal to the coil and the pump just to be safe.

Also remember to connect the red facet wire to a good ground as the pump body 
is not grounded. That allows the pump to be used on both - and + ground 
systems.


I have the facet pump system working on both my 3 and 4 and will have the same 
pump on my 6 when that car is finished in about 2 to 3 years time.

Bob

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Dec 27 10:16:06 2008
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 12:16:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 in GRM Dec Issue
Message-ID: <3465EA0F6397419BA0680889EEC2D80F@acer6e40e97492>

There's a pretty good article in the Dec issue of Grass Roots Motorsports on
the 12 steps they follow for the 1st start of a rebuilt engine. The car shown
is a late BRG TR6 with green hoses and triple carbs. Does it belong to anyone
on the List?

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 Mimosa TR6
Running with TBI, Toyota 5 speed &
Nissan differential

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Dec 27 10:57:22 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 12:57:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
References: <003601c9683f$42e39810$6401a8c0@STATION6>
	<200812271141.05951.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <004b01c9684c$941b7380$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Hey Bob,
Ok, now I am still confused. Some facts I should have stated.
1. My 3 is a negative ground car.
2. My Facet pump is only for negative ground cars.
3. The black wire on the pump comes with an eye connector for grounding 
already on the black wire. The instructions show black as ground.
4. The instructions indicate attaching the red to the newly installed oil 
pressure switch "P" terminal. (No oil pressure installed). Which indicates 
to me positive.
5. The harness white wire goes to the "Neg" side of my coil.
6. The "Neg" terminal of the coil goes to the distributor.
Does this help?
Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Facet Pump


> On Saturday 27 December 2008 11:22:05 Alex wrote:
>> Well its Sat morning and the Facet pump is being installed on my 59 TR3A.
>> Needed to get the fittings and filter which I now have. In short order I
>> will be wiring it up. Great instructions on wiring to the hot side of the
>> coil or white wire. So what's the problem? The wire from the harness is
>> white and the replacement TRF coil wire to the distributor is white. So
>> which one is considered hot. From the harness it comes from the ignition
>> switch which could be considered hot. Or from the coil to the distributor
>> could be considered hot. Any help on this one would be appreciated.
>> Alex Manzo
>> 59 TR3A
> Alex,
>
> The white wire off the harness is ignition switch HOT.
>
> On a + ground TR, that wire goes to the - terminal of the coil.
>
> If you have a spade coil, you should have 2 male space terminals at the 
> coil.
>
> Connect  the - (black) wire from the facet pump to the terminal of the 
> coil
> where the white wire attaches coming off the harness. The wire that goes 
> to
> the distributor may also be white but will be attached to the + side of 
> the
> coil. Dont hook up the pump hot wire to this side. I put a fuse between 
> the
> lucar terminal to the coil and the pump just to be safe.
>
> Also remember to connect the red facet wire to a good ground as the pump 
> body
> is not grounded. That allows the pump to be used on both - and + ground
> systems.
>
>
> I have the facet pump system working on both my 3 and 4 and will have the 
> same
> pump on my 6 when that car is finished in about 2 to 3 years time.
>
> Bob 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Dec 27 11:46:46 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 13:46:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
References: <003601c9683f$42e39810$6401a8c0@STATION6>
	<200812271141.05951.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<004b01c9684c$941b7380$6401a8c0@STATION6> <49566FBE.8080905@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <005501c96853$78cdfe70$6401a8c0@STATION6>

OK, with that said, what effect has running it backwards for 2 years had on 
the car as a whole?
Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
To: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Facet Pump


> Alex wrote:
>>
>> 5. The harness white wire goes to the "Neg" side of my coil.
>> 6. The "Neg" terminal of the coil goes to the distributor.
>
> Huh? The harness lead from the ignition switch should be going to the 
> positive side of the coil, and the negative side to the distributor, in 
> the case of a negative ground system.
>
>
> Ignition power --->pos lead of coil --->coil primary winding/coil 
> resistor--->neg lead of coil--->distributor points--->ground.
>
> That's the circuit.  If you're confused by the color of the wires to the 
> coil and the distributor, simply disconnect the two leads from the coil. 
> Turn the ignition on and check to see which one has power. The one with 
> power goes on the positive terminal of the coil, as should the power lead 
> from the pump.  The one that doesn't have power goes from the negative 
> terminal of the coil to the distributor.
>
>
> Cheers.
>
>
>
> -- 
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking 
> distance....

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Dec 27 11:53:01 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 13:53:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
In-Reply-To: <004b01c9684c$941b7380$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <003601c9683f$42e39810$6401a8c0@STATION6>
	<200812271141.05951.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<004b01c9684c$941b7380$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <200812271353.01681.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 27 December 2008 12:57:22 Alex wrote:
> Hey Bob,
> Ok, now I am still confused. Some facts I should have stated.
> 1. My 3 is a negative ground car.

Ok, then the white wire (ignition switch +) should go to the + coil 
connection.
> 2. My Facet pump is only for negative ground cars.

They say this but since the pump is not grounded to the body it is either.

> 3. The black wire on the pump comes with an eye connector for grounding
> already on the black wire. The instructions show black as ground.

Black wire goes to ground in your case. Black = NEG. Negative ground.

> 4. The instructions indicate attaching the red to the newly installed oil
> pressure switch "P" terminal. (No oil pressure installed). Which indicates
> to me positive.

Yes the red will be your POWER or + connection and should be connected to the 
switched ignition white wire coming off the harness and connected to the + 
side of the coil.
> 5. The harness white wire goes to the "Neg" side of my coil.

SInce your car is a - ground, the white or positive wire should go to the + 
side of the coil.
> 6. The "Neg" terminal of the coil goes to the distributor.
This is correct. Neg terminal to the distributor.

> Does this help?
> Alex
On both my 3 and 4 (both + ground), the red wire was converted to a eye 
connector and is grounded to the body.

The black wire goes to the white (negative) wire coming off the harness. 

Now since I have both + ground cars and Lucas Super coils, which are clearly 
marked + and - I assume if you have a - ground car then your ground should be 
connected to the - coil terminal. 

Now this could be wrong and you should ask a lister who has converted to - 
ground in a 3 and uses a coil that is marked + and -.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Dec 27 11:54:48 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 13:54:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
In-Reply-To: <005501c96853$78cdfe70$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <003601c9683f$42e39810$6401a8c0@STATION6>
	<49566FBE.8080905@dfn.com> <005501c96853$78cdfe70$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <200812271354.48647.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 27 December 2008 13:46:46 Alex wrote:
> OK, with that said, what effect has running it backwards for 2 years had on
> the car as a whole?
> Alex
Alex,

See my last post. You will need to ask a lister who has converted to - ground 
and uses a coil marked + and - to see if you continue to connect the wires 
following their polarity.

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 27 12:19:04 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 11:19:04 -0800
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
In-Reply-To: <005501c96853$78cdfe70$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <20081227191904.LRCB24847.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> OK, with that said, what effect has running it backwards for 
> 2 years had on the car as a whole?

Running with the coil 'backwards' won't damage anything at all.  In theory,
it will be a little harder to start and plug life will be shorter.  But in
my experience it's hard to tell the difference.

Randall

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Dec 27 12:24:12 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 14:24:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
References: <20081227191904.LRCB24847.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <007001c96858$b3ecef70$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Just switched it and it fired right up. :o)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Facet Pump


>> OK, with that said, what effect has running it backwards for
>> 2 years had on the car as a whole?
>
> Running with the coil 'backwards' won't damage anything at all.  In 
> theory,
> it will be a little harder to start and plug life will be shorter.  But in
> my experience it's hard to tell the difference.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 27 12:28:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 11:28:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] Facet Pump
In-Reply-To: <004b01c9684c$941b7380$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <20081227192818.CCXR18275.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> 2. My Facet pump is only for negative ground cars.

If it has two wires, it will work for either.  Older pumps with only one
wire came in either positive or negative ground versions, but they isolated
the ground (so the same pump could be used either way) a long time ago (at
least 10 years).

> 4. The instructions indicate attaching the red to the newly 
> installed oil pressure switch "P" terminal. (No oil pressure 
> installed). Which indicates to me positive.

Since the pressure switch does not care about polarity, I do not believe the
'P' stands for positive.  Assuming this is a 3-terminal switch, I believe it
indicates the common contact (although I have no idea why they use 'P' for
that).

What car were your instructions for ?

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Dec 27 14:20:03 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 16:20:03 EST
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 in GRM Dec Issue
Message-ID: <d56.173c8290.3687f603@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/27/2008 2:26:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mbullard at hawaii.rr.com writes:

Aloha,  Mele Kalikimaka & Hau'oli Makahiki Hou Bob: 



Does that mean its your car?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Don't be the last to know - click here for the latest news that 
will have people talking. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000021)

From jimbpps at cox.net  Sat Dec 27 18:18:54 2008
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 18:18:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Spare Tire Straps
In-Reply-To: <BC8F5C3A946841B1AA7307AC34FD6DCB@Scott>
References: <BC8F5C3A946841B1AA7307AC34FD6DCB@Scott>
Message-ID: <E516579E7A5448B9B77A6A8CB709E64B@JimofficePC>

Scott,

The strap you have a question about, holds the spare tire in place! It should be
attached to the floor of the trunk (there should be two holes in the trunk floor
just below the trunk latch) with the long part of the strap towards the 'inside'
of the spare tire compartment. The longest part of the strap goes through an
additional strap mounting bracket mounted on the 'floor' of the spare tire
compartment. Feed the strap through the bracket from the inside though to the
'outside' then up to the buckle. Tighten the strap through the buckle, thus
holding the spare tire in place. 

The other strap mounts to the floor of the spare tire compartment on the left
side near the rear portion and holds the 'tool roll'.

Questions? Come back or give me a call!

Good luck! 

Jim 
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L (But have owned 'many' TR3s!!)
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Scott Suhring
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 7:31 AM
To: Triumph Mail List
Subject: [TR] TR3A Spare Tire Straps

I am completely puzzled on how the spare tire/tool roll straps are installed. It
seems pretty straight forward that the two piece strap, which has the loop on
one end of each piece, must be for the tool roll, with the buckle being used to
secure the roll. What I can't figure out is how the other piece, the long strap
that has the loop on the one end with the buckle part way up from that end and
then the full length with the holes ending without a loop at the other end. It
seems as if the end with the loop must be secured to the top metal bracket or
the bottom one, and then the strap going somewhere and then through the loop and
down to the buckle, but I cannot for the life of me figure how this would work.
Any clear pictures or explanation would be greatly appreciated.  TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From jimbpps at cox.net  Sat Dec 27 19:10:47 2008
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 19:10:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] 'itsy-bitsy visability'
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0812270706k12326445s3dd0a6e00cccfe92@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007601c9682e$3e6cc5b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><BAY110-W793F772E84A82F850CF3FE5E80@phx.gbl>
	<7bb181af0812270706k12326445s3dd0a6e00cccfe92@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <215EC8FFDCA146218A5143593906D413@JimofficePC>

One of the mod's I wanted to add to my TR250 when I installed Dan Master's
wiring harness was 'Daytime Running Lights'. I bought a 'DRL' Module from
VickyBrit for around $40.00 (probably more now!) I had a problem installing it
at 1st, so left it un-installed as I had several other very pressing issues
until a couple of weeks ago. I eventually found that I had to run the output
wire from the DRL to the head light wire directly thus bypassing the head light
relay circuit! It works like a champ!! 

The theory of operation is that the module pulls power from the ignition switch
hot wire whenever the ignition switch is in the on position and sends an
electronically switched 12 VDC 'square wave' to the high beam head light
circuit. The duty cycle (or frequency) is such that the head lights are on at ~
75% intensity. A sense lead disconnects the module whenever the head lights are
turned on. When the ignition is turned off the module shuts the headlights off
after a ~ 20 second delay! 

Jim
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 8:07 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] 'itsy-bitsy visability'

My old VW simply has the headlights powered by a circuit controlled by the
ignition switch... i.e. when you switch the engine off the headlights also go
off.

I realize this is not as elegant a solution as discussed (e.g. parking lights
remain on until you turn them off at the headlamp switch) but it does preclude
running the battery down by leaving the headlamps on.

Geo
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From peterara at msn.com  Sat Dec 27 21:16:32 2008
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 20:16:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] facet pump
Message-ID: <BAY114-DS2CB8F46BA289B503FDBC7C1E90@phx.gbl>

For installation on positive OR negative ground cars contact Moss' tech
service.  We carry the actual facet pump, yes the aforementioned/recommended
model, which comes with hardware and we also carry the recommended facet
filter, too.  We did testing and developed installation instructions.
Why Moss?  This is why...
Yes, it's sort of commercial, but will get you the correct pump installed
properly.

Peter Arakelian

From mondoluxe at suddenlink.net  Sun Dec 28 10:17:14 2008
From: mondoluxe at suddenlink.net (Jeffrey Johnson)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 11:17:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] Anti-run on valve TR6
Message-ID: <20081228171717.IRMK13880.omta01.suddenlink.net@mariner133.suddenlink.net>

As a prelude to my question, I'll admit that I have taken off every 
piece of gumment mandated smog devices. The air pump(which was at the 
point of seizure), the gulp valve, the air injection manifold and the 
EGR valve.
I would hope that by setting this background you may more clearly 
understand the nature of my question.


---- Has anyone on the list ditched their anti-run on valve?

I've always been puzzled by it's existence because it seems to me 
that it's very existence indicates that it was engineered in a 
band-aid solution to a more serious problem, ie: a poorly designed 
gumment mandated attempt at reducing emissions.



I also wish to state that I still retain the last emission check that 
was done on my car in 1998 in the state of Ohio and will gladly pay 
for a new emission check when I get the Jezebel properly timed, carbs 
synched and the engine has been run-in properly.

I would do this in the interest of settling some questions that 
appear sporadically on the list.

Should someone have knowledge in this area, please feel free to 
contact me off-list.

Thanks again for your support.

Yours in Triumph,


Jeffrey
I was born in the year that Curragh King won the Arkansas Derby, the 
year that saw our most gracious queen  coronated and Sir Edmund 
Hillary scaled Mt. Everest. The new year marks forty years of 
continuous ownership of a Triumph.

From jimbpps at cox.net  Sun Dec 28 10:31:41 2008
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 10:31:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Anti-run on valve TR6
In-Reply-To: <20081228171717.IRMK13880.omta01.suddenlink.net@mariner133.suddenlink.net>
References: <20081228171717.IRMK13880.omta01.suddenlink.net@mariner133.suddenlink.net>
Message-ID: <0197C209398B45B0BE5349883D312B5C@JimofficePC>

Jeffery,

I believe the 'anti run on' valve allows the throttle to close completely when
the ignition is turned off, thus shutting off any air through the carburetors
that might allow the engine to 'diesel' or run on. If your car never runs on or
diesels after shut down, (especially prevalent when these engines are hot!) then
there is no reason to keep the valve.

Jim
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jeffrey Johnson
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 10:17 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Anti-run on valve TR6

As a prelude to my question, I'll admit that I have taken off every piece of
gumment mandated smog devices. The air pump(which was at the point of seizure),
the gulp valve, the air injection manifold and the EGR valve.
I would hope that by setting this background you may more clearly understand the
nature of my question.


---- Has anyone on the list ditched their anti-run on valve?

I've always been puzzled by it's existence because it seems to me that it's very
existence indicates that it was engineered in a band-aid solution to a more
serious problem, ie: a poorly designed gumment mandated attempt at reducing
emissions.



I also wish to state that I still retain the last emission check that was done
on my car in 1998 in the state of Ohio and will gladly pay for a new emission
check when I get the Jezebel properly timed, carbs synched and the engine has
been run-in properly.

I would do this in the interest of settling some questions that appear
sporadically on the list.

Should someone have knowledge in this area, please feel free to contact me
off-list.

Thanks again for your support.

Yours in Triumph,


Jeffrey
I was born in the year that Curragh King won the Arkansas Derby, the year that
saw our most gracious queen  coronated and Sir Edmund Hillary scaled Mt.
Everest. The new year marks forty years of continuous ownership of a Triumph.
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Dec 28 10:37:21 2008
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 12:37:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Anti-run on valve TR6
References: <20081228171717.IRMK13880.omta01.suddenlink.net@mariner133.suddenlink.net>
Message-ID: <AA18B36F76CF4AFBA674D004FE592C5B@acer6e40e97492>

Jeff,
I removed mine years ago, along with the rest of the emissions stuff with no 
noticeable impact. An easy way to check might be to just leave the 
connection at the oil pressure switch disconnected. I think that would 
disable it so you could see what happens.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6
Running with TBI, Toyota 5 speed &
Nissan differential


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeffrey Johnson" <mondoluxe at suddenlink.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 12:17 PM
Subject: [TR] Anti-run on valve TR6


> As a prelude to my question, I'll admit that I have taken off every piece 
> of gumment mandated smog devices. The air pump(which was at the point of 
> seizure), the gulp valve, the air injection manifold and the EGR valve.
> I would hope that by setting this background you may more clearly 
> understand the nature of my question.
>
>
> ---- Has anyone on the list ditched their anti-run on valve?
>
> I've always been puzzled by it's existence because it seems to me that 
> it's very existence indicates that it was engineered in a band-aid 
> solution to a more serious problem, ie: a poorly designed gumment mandated 
> attempt at reducing emissions.
>
>
>
> I also wish to state that I still retain the last emission check that was 
> done on my car in 1998 in the state of Ohio and will gladly pay for a new 
> emission check when I get the Jezebel properly timed, carbs synched and 
> the engine has been run-in properly.
>
> I would do this in the interest of settling some questions that appear 
> sporadically on the list.
>
> Should someone have knowledge in this area, please feel free to contact me 
> off-list.
>
> Thanks again for your support.
>
> Yours in Triumph,
>
>
> Jeffrey
> I was born in the year that Curragh King won the Arkansas Derby, the year 
> that saw our most gracious queen  coronated and Sir Edmund Hillary scaled 
> Mt. Everest. The new year marks forty years of continuous ownership of a 
> Triumph.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Dec 28 10:48:05 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 12:48:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Anti-run on valve TR6
In-Reply-To: <0197C209398B45B0BE5349883D312B5C@JimofficePC>
References: <20081228171717.IRMK13880.omta01.suddenlink.net@mariner133.suddenlink.net>
Message-ID: <49577585.11630.AE0D3D5@localhost>

On 28 Dec 2008 at 10:31, Jim Bauder wrote:

> I believe the 'anti run on' valve allows the throttle to close
> completely when the ignition is turned off,

Don't know about the TR6 version but on the Spitfire it engaged a 
solenoid when the ignition was turned off and the oil pressure was 
high.  It worked like this.  When the key was switched to Off, it 
sent voltage to the line leading to the solenoid.  The solenoid's 
ground line went to a terminal on the oil pressure sensor which 
connected it to ground when oil pressure was high  The purpose of the 
oil pressure connection was so that the solenoid would engage briefly 
when the switch was turned off with the engine running, but as soon 
as the engine stopped the solenoid would release and not drain the 
battery any further.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 28 11:16:20 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 10:16:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] Anti-run on valve TR6
In-Reply-To: <20081228171717.IRMK13880.omta01.suddenlink.net@mariner133.suddenlink.net>
Message-ID: <20081228181620.NYWJ18275.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I've always been puzzled by it's existence because it seems 
> to me that it's very existence indicates that it was 
> engineered in a band-aid solution to a more serious problem, 
> ie: a poorly designed gumment mandated attempt at reducing emissions.

Seems like a bit of a non-sequitor to me.  You could just as easily conclude
that the emission control system was so effective at ensuring the mixture
burned completely that the engine will continue to burn the mixture (hence
keep running) even with the ignition shut off.  The ARS prevents this by
shutting off the flow of fuel through the carb jets.

But IMO, if you disable the vacuum retard, set static timing to the book
value (around 10-12 BTDC) and adjust the throttles to bring the idle rpm
back down, you won't have any problem with run-on.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 28 11:17:21 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 10:17:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] Anti-run on valve TR6
In-Reply-To: <49577585.11630.AE0D3D5@localhost>
Message-ID: <20081228181721.XLNA24847.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Don't know about the TR6 version but on the Spitfire 

TR6 works the same.

Randall

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 28 16:58:14 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 18:58:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] diff mounting studs
In-Reply-To: <200812281235.48981.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200812281235.48981.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W6A0B234684440D982467CBAE90@phx.gbl>

Yes, I did this exact thing. I made up a set of bushings to that go over the
post to use a guides for the drill and tap to ensure that everything goes on
center. Your welcome to borrow them for the price of mailing them if you
return them. I will have to find them though:).  On the welding question, I
just looked at two frames and see no evidence of weld were the mounting stud
projects through the bracket on the underside of the frame. It almost appears
the only attachment of the stud it self is where it projects through the large
frame member going cross car under the parcel shelf where it is welded in
place. It sure seams as though it would be welded to the brackets underneath
though. Whats the popular opinion on this?

Thanks,
Marty

> From: yellowtr at adelphia.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 12:35:48 -0500
> Subject: [6pack] diff mounting studs
>
> Hi,
>
> Well I got to the last bolt on the car to remove and the stud snapped.
>
> Close but no cigar.
>
> The stud that snapped was one of the rear diff mount studs. The one on the
> drivers side.
>
> Looks like this stud is mounted through the rear part of the frame and
welded
> on.
>
> It appears that Moss supplies the part (320-365) and maybe TRF with part #
> 147671?
>
> Is it possible for me to drill out the old stud and install a new one?
>
> I see it is welded on the top, but what about the interior of the frame
area?
>
> Has anyone attempted this fix?
>
> Its always something!
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
Life on your PC is safer, easier, and more enjoyable with Windows Vista..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/127032870/direct/01/

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun Dec 28 18:16:49 2008
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 20:16:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Kit Question
Message-ID: <2B78D47227674F5C9C08DC6A3F42324C@TRGUY>

Happy Holidays Listers!!!!

Spent an enjoyable Christmas break in NC visiting family and working on my
sister in laws new 72 MGB project car with my brother and nephew. Lots of fun
pulling the front suspension off for a rebuild.

Now on to my 75 TR6 current project.  Looking to rebuild a set of 70-72 bucket
seats to put in my 75.  The differences in prices for a seat kit and foam kit
vary widely between Prestige, The Roadster Factory, Moss and Victoria British.
I prefer to give TRF business, but they are the highest by far, even with the
current discount.   Any recommendations on quality differences between these
suppliers?

Many thanks in advance!
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL (80 and sunny - sorry)
75 TR6 CF35914U

From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com  Sun Dec 28 19:00:37 2008
From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 21:00:37 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] No More Clunking
Message-ID: <29728151.1230516037534.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Just replaced my stock axles and hubs with new units produced by Richard Good. The stock units that I removed were in good condition including u-joints. Despite their condition I still had a lot of clunking. With the new units I have no clunking . . . much to my delight. In the past there has been a lot of discussion regarding "clunking culprits." My clunking with the stock units was no doubt coming from the spline joints; a little wear has the potential to result in a lot of clunking. Just thought I would post this experience for those trying to cure the clunk problem.

Doug Nelson
74TR6

________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Dec 28 20:34:42 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 19:34:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] seat kits
Message-ID: <432650.62025.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I was surprised at the cost of foam for seat kits also, as i was for the seat
springs for tr-3.  Can't chunks of foam be purchased and shaved/cut to fit
rather than buying through retailers?

gary n.

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Dec 28 20:49:42 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 20:49:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] seat kits
In-Reply-To: <432650.62025.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <432650.62025.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C723DD2032504564B44EF985ED41EDD0@newcomputer>

Yes, it can.  However, the foam used in these seats are especially heavy
duty so that it keeps its shape over the life of the seats.  Ordinary foam
that you can buy from Target or other retailers is far too soft.

I had my seats reupholstered by a commercial shop and they replaced all the
foam, reconditioned the frames and custom stitched the covering at a
fraction of what I would have paid for the pieces to do it myself.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 20:35
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] seat kits

I was surprised at the cost of foam for seat kits also, as i was for the
seat
springs for tr-3.  Can't chunks of foam be purchased and shaved/cut to fit
rather than buying through retailers?

gary n.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Dec 29 06:08:55 2008
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 08:08:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] No More Clunking
References: <29728151.1230516037534.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <A79E84BD4F23492494EE191E5CC109CB@acer6e40e97492>

Doug,
That's good to hear. Since installing the Nissan dif last winter, all new 
u-joints and cleaning and repacking my old axles, I fought a clunk all year. 
I've now got Goodparts' CVJs and upgraded hubs waiting to be installed. I 
hope I get the same results that you did!

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6
Running with TBI, Toyota 5 speed &
Nissan differential

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dmnlaw" <dmnlaw at peoplepc.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 9:00 PM
Subject: [TR] No More Clunking


> Just replaced my stock axles and hubs with new units produced by Richard 
> Good. The stock units that I removed were in good condition including 
> u-joints. Despite their condition I still had a lot of clunking. With the 
> new units I have no clunking . . . much to my delight. In the past there 
> has been a lot of discussion regarding "clunking culprits." My clunking 
> with the stock units was no doubt coming from the spline joints; a little 
> wear has the potential to result in a lot of clunking. Just thought I 
> would post this experience for those trying to cure the clunk problem.
>
> Doug Nelson
> 74TR6
>
> ________________________________________
> PeoplePC Online
> A better way to Internet
> http://www.peoplepc.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 29 06:29:38 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 08:29:38 EST
Subject: [TR] Anti-run on valve TR6
Message-ID: <cca.43d97b1c.368a2ac2@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/28/2008 11:17:48 AM Central Standard Time, 
mondoluxe at suddenlink.net writes: 
> ---- Has anyone on the list ditched their anti-run on valve?
> 
> I've always been puzzled by it's existence because it seems to me 
> that it's very existence indicates that it was engineered in a 
> band-aid solution to a more serious problem, ie: a poorly designed 
> gumment mandated attempt at reducing emissions.


Quite the opposite.  I retrofitted one onto my 71 TR6.  Calling this a 
pollution control device is a bit of a stretch.  It is what its name implies, a 
device to reduce running-on when switching off the motor.  It works by applying 
manifold vacuum to the charcoal canister.  The charcoal canister is connected, 
via tubes, to special ports on the carburetors leading to the top side of the 
float chambers.  The vacuum applied to the float chambers will pull the fuel 
away from the jets starving the A/F mixture to prevent run-on.

Of course they introduced it at the same time as they dropped the compression 
ratio.  That means they were not fitted to the early cars which needed them 
the most.

On the other hand, if you have already removed your charcoal canister you may 
as well remove this valve since it is ineffective without the canister.

Dave

From TeamTiger21 at aol.com  Mon Dec 29 06:32:41 2008
From: TeamTiger21 at aol.com (TeamTiger21 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 08:32:41 EST
Subject: [TR] Looking for TR3 Rebuildable Seats
Message-ID: <cb3.4a318705.368a2b79@aol.com>

I am looking for a pair of 1956 era TR3 seats to rebuild and replace my  
later additions. If you also have a rear seat all the better. 
 
Barry Schonberger
_teamtiger21 at aol.com_ (mailto:teamtiger21 at aol.com) 
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Mon Dec 29 07:19:44 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 06:19:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] Parts still for sale
Message-ID: <4958DC80.4060601@razzolink.com>

Just a reminder that I still have the following items for sale in the 
Monterey CA bay area

- Factory TR3 steel hard top, rough, $300

- TR3 overdrive gearbox minus the overdrive unit, condition unknown, it 
was someone else's spare gearbox $50

- TR3 lug wrench, original, needs repainting, $20

I'm moving at the end of January and wish them away (moving $ wouldn't 
hurt either)

Teriann

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Dec 29 15:55:10 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 22:55:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] seat kits
In-Reply-To: <432650.62025.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1907104107.1302671230591310269.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I was surprised at the cost of foam for seat kits also, as i was for the seat
>springs for tr-3. B Can't chunks of foam be purchased and shaved/cut to fit
>rather than buying through retailers?

...Or, as I did, you might cut out the rotted section of your current springs,
clip springs from an old bed mattress to fit, and hognose the replacement
springs into place.B  Free, fun, and forever.B 



Comfortable too.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Dec 29 16:03:41 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 18:03:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] seat kits
In-Reply-To: <432650.62025.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <432650.62025.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <200812291803.41407.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 28 December 2008 22:34:42 Gary Nafziger wrote:
> I was surprised at the cost of foam for seat kits also, as i was for the
> seat springs for tr-3.  Can't chunks of foam be purchased and shaved/cut to
> fit rather than buying through retailers?
>
> gary n.
Gary,

Yes it can and my dad used to cut foam into shape with an electric knife at 
his business.

But make sure you get the correct foam. It comes in many different grades.


Search for upholstery supplies and you can look at what the offer. But it is 
not cheap!

Bob

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Dec 29 16:10:45 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 23:10:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR Ball Joint Boots
In-Reply-To: <1907104107.1302671230591310269.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1493860552.1304911230592245031.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

My wife would call it stubborn.B  I insist it's being thorough, and that that
was the reason I waited for just the right girl.



She doesn't believe it, but she at least drops it.



So here it is.B  When I restored my '59 TR3A, dismantling the frame and
rebuilding the suspension was as far as I got the first season before snow
flew and money ran out.



The following spring, when I picked it up again, I noticed the rubber boots
covering the ball joints were already rotting.B 



Now a few years later, they have disintegrated.B  Since I'm doing the nylon
silentbloc conversion anyway (thanks to 50 degree weather in December!), I'll
be replacing the boots with something better.B  Took the ball joints in to my
highly qualified machine shop to see if they had any recommendations.B  If
they don't, will take them to Toyota for kinship sizing.B 



Last moment effort to save trouble, though, does anybody have a conversion for
better Toyota quality boots that fit the TR's?B  If not, I'll post what I
learn.



Terry Smith

New Hampshire

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec 29 16:58:00 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 15:58:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR Ball Joint Boots
In-Reply-To: <1493860552.1304911230592245031.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20081229235800.YNVG24847.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

Terry,

There was definitely a time when the boots would rot in just a few months;
but the current replacement boots from TRF appear to be higher quality.
Since I don't believe you will find a Toyota boot that will fit properly, I
would suggest buying proper replacements from TRF.  Although the ones I put
on TS39781LO perhaps 10 years ago don't look "new", they are still doing the
job.

Randall

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 30 12:48:37 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 11:48:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?
Message-ID: <443448.65787.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

listers,

I'm heading to pheonix for a couple months.  Just wondered if anyone
on the list is aware of british car clubs, events or shops that might be
interesting to get involved with.

thanks!

gary n.

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 30 12:53:44 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 11:53:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 spare tire area question
Message-ID: <221084.63186.qm@web59410.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Immediately inside the cover in the spare tire area on the floor is is a 3
inch by 2 inch (approx) depression in the floor.  It has two bolts or  caged
nuts for bolts.  I'm confused about what thats for.  There is no corresponding
latch or attachment on the cover that matches this depression so it doesn't
seem to be a place for a latch of any kind.  

just wondering

gary n.

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Dec 30 13:36:39 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 13:36:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?
In-Reply-To: <443448.65787.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <443448.65787.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B108C3209C5B4D228AFB6555280FD720@newcomputer>

Hi Gary!

I don't know where you are headed but there is no such place as Pheonix.
There is however a city in Arizona named Phoenix and there is a club there
(Desert Centre Triumph Register) http://www.dctra.org/ 

Click on the link for details.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 12:49
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?

listers,

I'm heading to pheonix for a couple months.  Just wondered if anyone
on the list is aware of british car clubs, events or shops that might be
interesting to get involved with.

thanks!

gary n.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 30 13:50:11 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 12:50:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] tr-3 spare tire area question
In-Reply-To: <221084.63186.qm@web59410.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20081230205011.HTOF18275.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Immediately inside the cover in the spare tire area on the 
> floor is is a 3 inch by 2 inch (approx) depression in the 
> floor.  It has two bolts or  caged nuts for bolts. 

Didn't we just talk about this?  That's where the strap for the spare tire
gets attached.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 30 14:28:20 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 16:28:20 EST
Subject: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?
Message-ID: <c9c.3bc3818e.368bec74@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/30/2008 2:37:00 PM Central Standard Time, 
spitlist at cox.net writes: 
> There is however a city in Arizona named Phoenix

Hey Joe, are you hooked on Phoenix?

;-)

Dave

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Dec 30 15:02:01 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 15:02:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Check this out
Message-ID: <B42E27305CF240CCAC7654BDA56FD4BE@newcomputer>

http://www.gumball3000.com/news/detail/171

 

Joe

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Dec 30 15:59:10 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 17:59:10 EST
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Check this out
Message-ID: <d0c.449f8250.368c01be@aol.com>

Very Cool Joe!
Can you name the year of that Spitfire? For Sure it must be Signal Red  Huh?  
Never knew that Giovanni did Ferraris!  I also have never heard  of a 
Missfire.  That must be a UK AKA.
Darrell
**************One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000025)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 30 16:03:12 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 18:03:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Check this out
Message-ID: <7E91AAE6.315FD1D8.36296DCF@cs.com>

"Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:

>http://www.gumball3000.com/news/detail/171
>
> 
>
>Joe


There you go.  Tiny Tim in the Gumball Rallye.

Dave

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Dec 30 16:03:55 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 23:03:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR Ball Joint Boots
In-Reply-To: <20081229235800.YNVG24847.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <94372646.1469211230678235239.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks, Randall.B  I don't recall where these particular (rotten) boots came
from, Victoria British, Moss or TRF.B  I'll give TRF a call to discuss.



Terry




----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 6:58:00 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Ball Joint Boots

Terry,

There was definitely a time when the boots would rot in just a few months;
but the current replacement boots from TRF appear to be higher quality.
Since I don't believe you will find a Toyota boot that will fit properly, I
would suggest buying proper replacements from TRF. B Although the ones I put
on TS39781LO perhaps 10 years ago don't look "new", they are still doing the
job.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 30 18:35:58 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 18:35:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?
In-Reply-To: <c9c.3bc3818e.368bec74@cs.com>
References: <c9c.3bc3818e.368bec74@cs.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0812301735q17649193na846dd5cbf85ebb0@mail.gmail.com>

Shoot, call it Feenix, they don't care.

If you get down to Tucson (aka Tuscon, Two-Suns, etc) let me know.  There is
a breakfast drive on the 2nd Saturday, Lunch event on last Saturday, coffee
at the 'Bucks every Tuesday morning and a big car show on January 24.

http://www.carnuts.org/assets/09_carshow_info.pdf

Geo

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec 30 19:03:36 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 21:03:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0812301735q17649193na846dd5cbf85ebb0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c9c.3bc3818e.368bec74@cs.com>
Message-ID: <495A8CA8.32095.AC6424@localhost>

On 30 Dec 2008 at 18:35, Geo Hahn wrote:

> Shoot, call it Feenix, they don't care.

Yes, but does anyone there drive a Truimph?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Dec 30 19:05:38 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 19:05:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?
In-Reply-To: <495A8CA8.32095.AC6424@localhost>
References: <c9c.3bc3818e.368bec74@cs.com> <495A8CA8.32095.AC6424@localhost>
Message-ID: <28AC4BC52D44432D8B11FA451F73EFD9@newcomputer>

Well.......YEAH!


Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 19:04
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?

On 30 Dec 2008 at 18:35, Geo Hahn wrote:

> Shoot, call it Feenix, they don't care.

Yes, but does anyone there drive a Truimph?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3a at comcast.net  Tue Dec 30 19:07:35 2008
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 21:07:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?
In-Reply-To: <28AC4BC52D44432D8B11FA451F73EFD9@newcomputer>
References: <c9c.3bc3818e.368bec74@cs.com> <495A8CA8.32095.AC6424@localhost>
	<28AC4BC52D44432D8B11FA451F73EFD9@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <495AD3E7.30306@comcast.net>

   As long as they keep the fluifs topped off, they're fine.
   Joe Curry wrote:

Well.......YEAH!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 19:04
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?

On 30 Dec 2008 at 18:35, Geo Hahn wrote:

Shoot, call it Feenix, they don't care.

Yes, but does anyone there drive a Truimph?

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Dec 30 19:19:52 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 19:19:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?
In-Reply-To: <495AD3E7.30306@comcast.net>
References: <c9c.3bc3818e.368bec74@cs.com> <495A8CA8.32095.AC6424@localhost>
	<28AC4BC52D44432D8B11FA451F73EFD9@newcomputer>
	<495AD3E7.30306@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A4A06FF588644248998F2217854376D2@newcomputer>

Especially the coolant.  (Or is that "Koolant"?)

 

Joe

 

  _____  

From: Michael [mailto:tr3a at comcast.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 19:08
To: Joe Curry
Cc: jimmuller at rcn.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?

 

As long as they keep the fluifs topped off, they're fine.

Joe Curry wrote: 

Well.......YEAH!
 
 
Joe
 
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 19:04
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?
 
On 30 Dec 2008 at 18:35, Geo Hahn wrote:
 
  

Shoot, call it Feenix, they don't care.
    

 
Yes, but does anyone there drive a Truimph?

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Dec 30 20:58:03 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 22:58:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] TA Repair Jig
Message-ID: <3AC09BFB34AB48F8B5E53312690C1359@BOBSNEWPC>

OK guys..... for those of you who wanted the TA repair jig, I did one side
today with no problems at all. It was a very simple repair using the jig and
the results are "spot on". Some of you were worried about there being enough
"meat" in the TAs to take the drilling and tapping and I can say that
there's no evidence of anything breaking through. I told Rick to ship the
units he has sold, so drop him an email to check on yours. It's well worth
the $60 introductory price ..........or split it with friends or your local
club. Oh yea.... here's where I wrote it all up
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TAJig.htm ..... no navigation buttons yet but
there's links at the bottom of each page.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Wed Dec 31 07:55:20 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 06:55:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] Stuff
In-Reply-To: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDCEHODFAA.coefront@shaw.ca>
References: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDCEHODFAA.coefront@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <495B87D8.7060009@razzolink.com>

Mike Coe wrote:
> Hi Teriann:
> My friend tells me that he has three of the hardtops at his home on
> Vancouver Island; for which he paid little more than $ 100.00 Cnd. So you
> may have a problem selling yours at $ 100.00 US.
> Cheers
> Mike
>   

For $100 or less it would be easier for me just to bend the TR3 hard top 
so it will fit the back of my Land Rover and drop it off at the local 
recycler next time I'm driving past.  I can do that on my own schedule.

I had no idea that TR3A factory hard tops were so common. 

I'll probably do that to my spare TR3 overdrive gearbox and the TR3 lug 
wrench.  When you are trying to move a household on a short notice, just 
shedding bulk of stuff to be moved can be very important.

Teriann

From tr6nut at verizon.net  Wed Dec 31 08:54:22 2008
From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 10:54:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Stuff
In-Reply-To: <495B87D8.7060009@razzolink.com>
References: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDCEHODFAA.coefront@shaw.ca>
	<495B87D8.7060009@razzolink.com>
Message-ID: <495B95AE.8000502@verizon.net>

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> ... When you are trying to move a household on a short notice, just 
> shedding bulk of stuff to be moved can be very important.
>
I hate moving.  Every time that I have moved, I have gotten rid of stuff 
that I ended up needing a year or two later.  Unfortunately, you usually 
can't just lug everything from place to place.

Hugh Barber

From wbmcleod at gmail.com  Wed Dec 31 09:29:02 2008
From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 09:29:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stuff
In-Reply-To: <495B87D8.7060009@razzolink.com>
References: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDCEHODFAA.coefront@shaw.ca>
	<495B87D8.7060009@razzolink.com>
Message-ID: <66C7F986-2E4A-4941-90A2-795F3C0C913B@gmail.com>

Teriann,

I sold my last 2 T3 hardtops on ebay for over $500 each, so they are  
not worthless!  The problem with yours is the rust....  You can ship  
them anywhere in the country wrapped in a tarp via Greyhound, safely,  
insured, for a reasonable price.  Perhaps you can list your items on  
ebay.

Regards, Bill
Slightly Classics
Tucson, AZ


On Dec 31, 2008, at 7:55 AM, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> Mike Coe wrote:
>> Hi Teriann:
>> My friend tells me that he has three of the hardtops at his home on
>> Vancouver Island; for which he paid little more than $ 100.00 Cnd.  
>> So you
>> may have a problem selling yours at $ 100.00 US.
>> Cheers
>> Mike
>>
>
> For $100 or less it would be easier for me just to bend the TR3 hard  
> top so it will fit the back of my Land Rover and drop it off at the  
> local recycler next time I'm driving past.  I can do that on my own  
> schedule.
>
> I had no idea that TR3A factory hard tops were so common.
> I'll probably do that to my spare TR3 overdrive gearbox and the TR3  
> lug wrench.  When you are trying to move a household on a short  
> notice, just shedding bulk of stuff to be moved can be very important.
>
> Teriann

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed Dec 31 10:03:44 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 12:03:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Clutch on Ebay
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPKEADFEAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

List,
There is a guy selling a remanufactured clutch on Ebay and I was wondering
if anyone on the list has used one of these? It is remanufactured by Fort
Wayne Clutch and comes with a presure plate, clutch disk, and alignment
tool.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR6-TR250-TR4A-Clutch-Assembly_W0QQcm
dZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a543Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c30
1Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem180316920101Q
QitemZ180316920101QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Dec 31 11:48:05 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 11:48:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stuff
In-Reply-To: <66C7F986-2E4A-4941-90A2-795F3C0C913B@gmail.com>
References: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDCEHODFAA.coefront@shaw.ca><495B87D8.7060009@razzolink.com>
	<66C7F986-2E4A-4941-90A2-795F3C0C913B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FBC8C839E5E64511B064F98AB24E6CD2@sniffer>

On a related topic, I have a fiberglass HT that came with my project that I
am not interested in keeping.  I have the rubber and the
plexiglass(yellowed), the headliner looks like the Burberry Plaid pattern
and someone told me it was an AMCO brand but I have no way to verify this.
Do this have any value?  Is eBay the best way to move it?

Thx,

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William McLeod
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 9:29 AM
To: TeriAnn Wakeman
Cc: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] Stuff

Teriann,

I sold my last 2 T3 hardtops on ebay for over $500 each, so they are not
worthless!  The problem with yours is the rust....  You can ship them
anywhere in the country wrapped in a tarp via Greyhound, safely, insured,
for a reasonable price.  Perhaps you can list your items on ebay.

Regards, Bill
Slightly Classics
Tucson, AZ


On Dec 31, 2008, at 7:55 AM, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> Mike Coe wrote:
>> Hi Teriann:
>> My friend tells me that he has three of the hardtops at his home on 
>> Vancouver Island; for which he paid little more than $ 100.00 Cnd.
>> So you
>> may have a problem selling yours at $ 100.00 US.
>> Cheers
>> Mike
>>
>
> For $100 or less it would be easier for me just to bend the TR3 hard 
> top so it will fit the back of my Land Rover and drop it off at the 
> local recycler next time I'm driving past.  I can do that on my own 
> schedule.
>
> I had no idea that TR3A factory hard tops were so common.
> I'll probably do that to my spare TR3 overdrive gearbox and the TR3 
> lug wrench.  When you are trying to move a household on a short 
> notice, just shedding bulk of stuff to be moved can be very important.
>
> Teriann
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.1/1869 - Release Date: 12/31/2008
8:44 AM

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Dec 31 13:21:17 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 15:21:17 EST
Subject: [TR] Stuff
Message-ID: <c37.46735249.368d2e3d@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/31/2008 9:56:20 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
twakeman at razzolink.com writes:

I had no  idea that TR3A factory hard tops were so common. 


With the guys I hang around with they're not!
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to 
celebrity break-ups and everything in between. 
(http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024)

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Dec 31 16:47:31 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 18:47:31 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3A starter
Message-ID: <be2.3f8ce93c.368d5e93@aol.com>

I have had this issue for a long time and am just getting around to  asking.  
My starter seems to have a "dead spot".  When I got the car  it sometimes 
would just grunt when I hit the button like the battery was  dead.  I hit it a 
second time and it fired right up.  I took it to my  local starter guy and he 
rebuilt it and told me that it was a bad ground causing  this.  I paid extra 
attention to the ground, put a new motor to  chassis ground when I put the 
rebuilt motor in, and yet it still  does the same thing.  My solenoid does not have 
the starter button on it so  it is likely a replacement (I think).  Could this 
be the  solenoid? 
My pecuniary situation is likely to change after the first of the year so  
buying a new one "just because" ain't no more.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to 
celebrity break-ups and everything in between. 
(http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024)

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Wed Dec 31 17:34:24 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 19:34:24 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3A starter
Message-ID: <d03.4c603ca0.368d6990@aol.com>

David:
Welcome to the world of "pecuniary situations".  The boat is starting to get 
a bit crowded.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana


**************
Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from 
fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. 
(http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024)

From auprichard at comcast.net  Wed Dec 31 20:04:43 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 22:04:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Happy New Year
In-Reply-To: <be2.3f8ce93c.368d5e93@aol.com>
References: <be2.3f8ce93c.368d5e93@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4F75853A2AC644B0B9563315ED477F50@DCH6RFC1>

Happy New Year to all on the list.

In the past 4 weeks I have been diagnosed with a colon tumor, went through
open surgery, developed a wound abscess and finally began to feel good last
week when I had a pulmonary embolism (clot on the lung) and nearly died.  

But the good news:   the tumor is completely gone, the wound has healed, the
clot is dissolved on anticoagulants.  Today I got a new job.

I have a great family and friends who came out of the woodwork.  And I have
a lot to look forward to, including following every email on the TR list.
Most of you I have never met, but I enjoy every interaction and I chuckle at
the banter.  My second TR3 should be on the road in a few months and I have
my eye on a TR250.  So thank you all - and here's to a great 2009 !

Slainte ! (Irish for cheers)

Andrew Uprichard

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Dec 31 20:42:46 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 22:42:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Happy New Year
In-Reply-To: <4F75853A2AC644B0B9563315ED477F50@DCH6RFC1>
References: <be2.3f8ce93c.368d5e93@aol.com>
	<4F75853A2AC644B0B9563315ED477F50@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <C9F3A947B3094707A279BB43D3AAC7A0@BOBSNEWPC>

Andy......Wow.......in a really weird way.......that is great news. Best
wishes to you and your family and good health in 2009. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 10:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Happy New Year

Happy New Year to all on the list.

In the past 4 weeks I have been diagnosed with a colon tumor, went through
open surgery, developed a wound abscess and finally began to feel good last
week when I had a pulmonary embolism (clot on the lung) and nearly died.  

But the good news:   the tumor is completely gone, the wound has healed, the
clot is dissolved on anticoagulants.  Today I got a new job.

I have a great family and friends who came out of the woodwork.  And I have
a lot to look forward to, including following every email on the TR list.
Most of you I have never met, but I enjoy every interaction and I chuckle at
the banter.  My second TR3 should be on the road in a few months and I have
my eye on a TR250.  So thank you all - and here's to a great 2009 !

Slainte ! (Irish for cheers)

Andrew Uprichard
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Dec 31 20:46:11 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 22:46:11 EST
Subject: [TR] Happy New Year
Message-ID: <d68.38989d5d.368d9683@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/31/2008 9:05:16 PM Central Standard Time, 
auprichard at comcast.net writes: 
> Happy New Year to all on the list.
> 
> In the past 4 weeks I have been diagnosed with a colon tumor, went through
> open surgery, developed a wound abscess and finally began to feel good last
> week when I had a pulmonary embolism (clot on the lung) and nearly died. 

Good luck there.  My mother died from a pulmonary embolism.  That was 40 
years ago and medicine has advanced quite a bit since then.

> 
> 
> But the good news:   the tumor is completely gone, the wound has healed, the
> clot is dissolved on anticoagulants.  Today I got a new job.

Did you buy a lottery ticket?

> 
> I have a great family and friends who came out of the woodwork.  And I have
> a lot to look forward to, including following every email on the TR list.
> Most of you I have never met, but I enjoy every interaction and I chuckle at
> the banter.  My second TR3 should be on the road in a few months and I have
> my eye on a TR250.  So thank you all - and here's to a great 2009 !
> 
> 
Slainte ! (Irish for cheers)

And a shot of Bushmills to your health.

May the road rise up to meet you.
May the wind be always at your back.
May the sun shine warm upon your face;
the rains fall soft upon your fields and until we meet again 

Dave

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Dec 31 21:21:59 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 23:21:59 EST
Subject: [TR] Happy New Year
Message-ID: <bf0.41bea26b.368d9ee7@aol.com>

Wow!  Happy endings are hard to come by.  I am delighted to hear  that you 
have one to tell.
Happy New Year.  You have given me a new perspective, so,  thanks!
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to 
celebrity break-ups and everything in between. 
(http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024)

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Wed Dec 31 21:38:06 2008
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 21:38:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] pheonix area british car "stuff"?
In-Reply-To: <443448.65787.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <443448.65787.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0812312038s3079b16fl7ee247e9e3054e5a@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, plenty of us drive Triumphs in Phoenix! Joe gave you the link to our
web site. In the newsletter online will have a list events. When are you
arriving? We are having a tech session 1/11 to install the Ratco throttle
linkage kits a bunch of us bought. The club's Jan meeting is a election
brunch but you are welcome to crash and the next club meeting will be the
second Tuesday in Feb, we'd love to see you there!

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798
On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 12:48 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> listers,
>
> I'm heading to pheonix for a couple months.  Just wondered if anyone
> on the list is aware of british car clubs, events or shops that might be
> interesting to get involved with.
>
> thanks!
>
> gary n.
> _______________________________________________

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 31 21:49:07 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 20:49:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A starter
In-Reply-To: <be2.3f8ce93c.368d5e93@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090101044908.VFLM13308.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Could this be the  solenoid? 

Could be.  Could also be a bad connection anywhere in the starter circuit,
including where the battery cables attach to the battery and the ground
strap to the body.

One way to look for it : Next time it happens, hold the button down for a
count of 10 or so, then quickly open the hood and feel along all the starter
circuit connections.  The bad one will be hot.

And the burn will heal <G>

Randall