[TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder - problem solved!

[Roger Wilson]

Thanks Randall!  - My problem was the slave return spring.

I ordered a new spring along with the new slave cylinder, rod, fork,
taper pin, and hose. I just didn't notice that the spring they sent was
wrong.  It is a thinner gauge and a little smaller. With the lighter
spring the rod adjustment was way off.  It was off enough that the
clutch couldn't disengage. With no pedal resistance it felt like air in
the line. When I pumped the pedal the piston would move far enough to
start to disengage the clutch, just like air in the line.

I re-installed the old spring, which is in fine shape, adjusted the rod
clearance to the piston, and the clutch is working great - no bleeding
was needed.

After some checking, I discovered that what they sent me was the pedal
return spring, not the slave cylinder spring. I changed the pedal spring
out, since the old one was a bit rusty and I had a new one in my hand
that didn't know what to do with.  I checked my packing slip and I did
order the right spring. It was just a mistake.

Thanks again,
Roger Wilson
'60 TR3



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+roger=rw-architect.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+roger=rw-architect.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 5:30 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder

> It is the typical super-soft pedal that hardens up
> with some pumping. Obviously there is still air in there.

Guess it's not so obvious to me ... that is exactly the symptom I got
both
with a broken taper pin; and with a broken spring inside the MC.  Really
bad
slave adjustment combined with a tired or broken slave return spring
could
do it too, I think.


> I was thinking of dropping the slave cylinder down and
> bleeding it with the Mityvac with the slave attached to the
> master. Then I could get good access to the bleeder valve.
> Could that work?

Personally, I have always been able to bleed the TR3's clutch by simply
pumping it up, holding the pedal down for 10-20 seconds, then releasing
the
pedal and waiting for another 10-20 seconds.  Repeat the process 4 or 5
times, then go for a drive.  The returning slave piston should force the
bubbles into the line, which will then rise and work their way out
through
the MC.

Sounds odd, but it works for me.

Randall
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