From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Aug  1 02:34:39 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 09:34:39 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR paint colors/colours - who decided at Triumph?
References: <a11dceec0807311452t64fb7ac9k6699ed29c6f0d315@mail.gmail.com>
	<7bb181af0807311751k7ecde9ccn694f1402af47cef5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00bb01c8f3b1$70d94fb0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

It's quite true that Sir John Black's wife had her own thoughts on suitable colours for cars. A 
recent conversation I had with her youngest son, Nick, did put the kybosh on the allegation of her 
colour blindness. Seemingly she wasn't CB at all!
But the CEO's wife's involvement in colour choice only really goes as far as 1954, this being the 
year that Black was ousted by the Main Board and was possibly on his own, in terms of being with his 
former wife.
>From that point forwards, colour choices became a joint Engineering and Marketing responsibility.
However, there was one outpost where a wife's imagination was brought to bear on product offerings. 
Jock Brown, (former Chief Inspector) and later General Manager of the London Sales and Service 
Division was very active in making special car types - based on the Herald and Vitesse (Sports 6). 
Mrs Brown certainly came up with some delightful colour combos and my favourite was a duotone silver 
and metallic light grey on a Vitesse Coupe. Her other blend of brilliant White and metallic Wedgwood 
Blue with black or grey interiors. There were other delightful colour combos as well. IMHO, the 
Vitesse Coupe was arguably the prettiest car I ever remember seeing. I've always thought the Herald 
Coupe was infinitely more eye-appealing than other Herald derivatives and Jock Brown's offering was 
superb. The Vitesse could be ordered with various stages of performance tune, using factory 
components. Equally, Jock's variations of Heralds always had Spitfire engines, overdrive gearboxes 
on the three top speeds and wire wheels of a wider than normal section. All these cars were made to 
special order only and by todays values were cheap. But my favourite, the Vitesse Coupe, was several 
hundred pounds more than Standard-Triumph's most expensive car, the 2.5PI Estate (Wagon). Therefore 
totally out of reach financially for an impoverished car salesman in the company's only showroom :)

Jonmac 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Aug  1 02:36:11 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 09:36:11 +0100
Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen - 4-7 Sept
Message-ID: <00bf01c8f3b1$a767fc70$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Are nay listers attending at The Glenn in September? Please let me know off-list as I'd like to meet 
you if possible.

jonmac 

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Aug  1 08:07:09 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 10:07:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen - 4-7 Sept   JonMac
Message-ID: <c34.3b0ea3c0.35c4728d@cs.com>

Are any listers attending at The Glenn in September? Please let me know 
off-list as I'd like to meet   you if possible.

jonmac 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------
TR Lists:

In response to JonMac's note.

We are having a modest hospitality tent in the Triumph Paddock area. This is  
supported by our WPTA VTR friends and Sponsored by Moss and Classic 
Motorsports magazine.

I would like to extend an invitation to all who attend to stop by during the 
weekend. There will be several interesting folks lurking about....and some 
very special historical Triumphs.  Some of us are camping there and will likely 
do some night time socializing....(usually until about 9:00PM for me. It's an 
age thing) The Brits will likely keep the campfires burning far past that.

This will be a great place for JonMac to hold court, and actually is part of 
the plan.

Joe Alexander
Friends of Triumph






   </HTML>

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  1 08:39:40 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 14:39:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel.
In-Reply-To: <005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <001e01c8f30e$f88ad940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W24430F056F773666071F32E57F0@phx.gbl>

I saw a segment on the news the other night about a hydrogen kit for cars.  It
employs a mason jar as a generator, fills it with distilled water and some
baking soda, and it bubbles hydrogen.  The hydrogen is routed into the fuel
mixture before the intake manifold.  The lady interviewed that had one claims
it has doubled her gas mileage.  The kit cost around two hundred daollars.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com
> To: fogbro1 at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 14:46:53 +0100
> CC: tr3driver at ca.rr.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] Are Electric Pumps Going To Be Necessary
>
> Ed
>
> Interesting article. Personally, I've never come across this problem in
terms of modern fuels
> causing pumping problems per se.
> However, what I *have* encountered many times is a failure of rubber (for
want of a better word)
> components in the fuel system itself. In non-injection cars, I've seen many
mechanical pump failures
> where the chemical mix in unleaded fuels is well known to attack those
components that ran happily
> for years on leaded. This is a real problem on Triumph fuel injection cars
and the only way round it
> is to do a full service exchange on the metering unit, low pressure return
lines and pressure relief
> valve. However, its clear that unleaded fuel (as a generic) seems to come in
different complexions
> in terms of additives used and what we have in the UK may not be the same as
in the US. I do know
> that when unleaded was first introduced in New Zealand some years ago at the
same time as leaded was
> banned, there were horrendous problems with the fuel itself causing
breakdowns everywhere and
> nothing to do with valve seat recession.
> IMHO, if this issue worries you and your mechanical pump seems to be working
OK, either leave it
> alone or replace the *rubber* parts with neoprene units which are known (in
the UK anyway) to be
> completely unaffected by unleaded.
> FWIW ....
>
> Jonmac
>
> Randall may have another view?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  1 08:49:25 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 14:49:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] Excuse me I have the vapors.
In-Reply-To: <C04D5AA40A994D3C8ADC308C87B935E7@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <001e01c8f30e$f88ad940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan> 
	<C04D5AA40A994D3C8ADC308C87B935E7@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W7154C2BB0AD4D6329E4E1E57F0@phx.gbl>

My TR3A has vapor locked several times in the last couple of years.  I though
I had cured the problem when I rerouted the fuel lines to the front of the
engine compartment.  Then the car vapor locked again last spring in L.A.
traffic when it's operating temp was just over 200 degrees.

I am using a Holley 15 Lb. 160 Gal./Min. electric fuel pump mounted to the
frame just in front of the rear axle.

This was posted to the list:

> to be vapor lock as such (fuel boils in the lines before the pump) and more
> often boiling between the pump and the jets;

When my car vapor locked there was no fuel in the filter bowl.  After sitting
on the sit of the freeway for 20 minutes the fuel returned to the fuel bowl.

Can it be said with confidence that this vapor lock was the in the line
between the pump and the tank, or can a vapor lock after the pump block fuel
from the filter?



Best regards,
Tom



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From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Aug  1 08:49:22 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 10:49:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel.
References: <001e01c8f30e$f88ad940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<BAY110-W24430F056F773666071F32E57F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000401c8f3e5$cb66ee40$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

Oh, to call BS or not.  :-)






----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 10:39 AM
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel.


>I saw a segment on the news the other night about a hydrogen kit for cars. 
>It
> employs a mason jar as a generator, fills it with distilled water and some
> baking soda, and it bubbles hydrogen.  The hydrogen is routed into the 
> fuel
> mixture before the intake manifold.  The lady interviewed that had one 
> claims
> it has doubled her gas mileage.  The kit cost around two hundred daollars.

From mgowen55 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  1 09:01:24 2008
From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 11:01:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel.
In-Reply-To: <001e01c8f30e$f88ad940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer><005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<BAY110-W24430F056F773666071F32E57F0@phx.gbl>
References: <001e01c8f30e$f88ad940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer><005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<BAY110-W24430F056F773666071F32E57F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY111-DS30102D739DCD8C75E3442D67F0@phx.gbl>

I got one. Also helps with hair loss and ED.

Glenn



--------------------------------------------------
From: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 10:39 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel.

> I saw a segment on the news the other night about a hydrogen kit for cars. 
> It
> employs a mason jar as a generator, fills it with distilled water and some
> baking soda, and it bubbles hydrogen.  The hydrogen is routed into the 
> fuel
> mixture before the intake manifold.  The lady interviewed that had one 
> claims
> it has doubled her gas mileage.  The kit cost around two hundred daollars.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  1 09:02:07 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 15:02:07 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fuel additives
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0807311123t202c3705g2484c7a9d377e451@mail.gmail.com>
References: <008e01c8f323$a5a380a0$6701a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
	<17D169A10C26420E88EF8F9AF7ABCCDD@jdnet.deere.com> 
	<7bb181af0807311123t202c3705g2484c7a9d377e451@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W19AD0BCB015BDDE48B0333E57F0@phx.gbl>

My engine is at ten to one compression so I always use premium fuel.  I don't
have any problems with ping or detonation.  Once in  rare while I will go to
the fuel depot and get five gallons of 112 octane racing fuel and add the to
the tank and then fill it with premium.  When I do that it really cleans up
the way my engine runs.

Best regards,
Tom



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With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
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08

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Aug  1 09:13:47 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 09:13:47 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fuel additives
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W19AD0BCB015BDDE48B0333E57F0@phx.gbl>
References: <008e01c8f323$a5a380a0$6701a8c0@Induninwlaptop><17D169A10C26420E88EF8F9AF7ABCCDD@jdnet.deere.com>
	<7bb181af0807311123t202c3705g2484c7a9d377e451@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY110-W19AD0BCB015BDDE48B0333E57F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000a01c8f3e9$3320db60$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Just curious, how would a higher octane clean your engine? (assuming no
special additives)  I can understand it running better, my thought process
would say that if it runs noticeably better on the higher octane then you
should use it all the time.

Inquiring minds want to know.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom
white
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 9:02 AM
To: Geo Hahn; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel additives

My engine is at ten to one compression so I always use premium fuel.  I
don't have any problems with ping or detonation.  Once in  rare while I will
go to the fuel depot and get five gallons of 112 octane racing fuel and add
the to the tank and then fill it with premium.  When I do that it really
cleans up the way my engine runs.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
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0
08
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6:39 AM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug  1 10:45:25 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 09:45:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Excuse me I have the vapors.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W7154C2BB0AD4D6329E4E1E57F0@phx.gbl>
References: <001e01c8f30e$f88ad940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer><005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<C04D5AA40A994D3C8ADC308C87B935E7@jdnet.deere.com>
	<BAY110-W7154C2BB0AD4D6329E4E1E57F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <22FFEAF68F4A4E2B9955B7539572E807@jdnet.deere.com>

> I am using a Holley 15 Lb. 160 Gal./Min. electric fuel pump mounted to the
> frame just in front of the rear axle.
<snip>
> Can it be said with confidence that this vapor lock was the in the line
> between the pump and the tank,

On the contrary, I think it was almost certainly inside the pump.  Those
high-output rotary pumps put a lot of heat into the fuel, which of course is
exactly what you don't want.  

IMO the solution, in your case (NOT a stock Triumph application) is to run a
small id (no larger than half the id of the main fuel line) bypass from near
the carburetor back to the fuel tank.  That way, the fuel always flows
through the pump (and lines) to carry away the heat.

Randall

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  1 11:22:36 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 10:22:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel.
In-Reply-To: <BAY111-DS30102D739DCD8C75E3442D67F0@phx.gbl>
References: <001e01c8f30e$f88ad940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<BAY110-W24430F056F773666071F32E57F0@phx.gbl>
	<BAY111-DS30102D739DCD8C75E3442D67F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808011022k48c4e89ja0bad9718bd767a8@mail.gmail.com>

I remember when there were cereal box prizes that you loaded with
baking soda and put in water... included a submarine, scuba divers and
PT Boats (because of JFK).

http://cgi.ebay.com/1950s-KELLOGGS-BAKING-POWDER-PT-BOAT-CEREAL-PREMIUM_W0QQitemZ370073126785QQihZ024QQcategoryZ19080QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Hope the car runs better than the boat did.

From billtr4 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  1 12:40:17 2008
From: billtr4 at hotmail.com (bill schuld)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 13:40:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 for sale at NATC
Message-ID: <BLU118-W50CB79A426C69B0EF76342F67F0@phx.gbl>

My TR4 will be at NATC on Friday for sale, beautful signal red, w/ black int,
Chrome Daytons,   Best offer over $25K  Email for pics or details.  Bill
_________________________________________________________________
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From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Fri Aug  1 12:54:18 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 14:54:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Hydrogen fuel.
Message-ID: <03ac01c8f408$00de8d40$6401a8c0@STATION6>

> This is a growing area here in Florida. Better known as "Brown's Gas", its 
> been around for years. A google search will shed more light. There is a 
> company in Clearwater that has a contract with the military to fit out 
> "Humvees". The attached sites lend some additional info. GE is working on 
> this as you will see from the site below. The military has used it in 
> different forms for years as well as industry. Just lately smaller units 
> have been constructed to fit cars, both diesel and gas. I have seen these 
> many times and know people who claim mileage improvements anywhere from 
> 10% to 40% depending on the unit and its construction. There are a few of 
> us here looking to build these for our daily drivers. After getting the 
> instructions, ($50) you can build the units for under $15. FWIW. So the 
> big question.............where has it been all these years?
> Alex
> 59 TR3A
> 72 TR6
>
> http://articles.directorym.net/Cheap_Hydrogen_Fuel_Clearwater_FL-r868701-Clearwater_FL.html
>
> http://www.savefuel.ca/hydrogen/?source=Google-Hydrogen%20Fuel
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Nolan" <opposumking at verizon.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 10:49 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Hydrogen fuel.
>
>
>> Oh, to call BS or not.  :-)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 10:39 AM
>> Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel.
>>
>>
>>>I saw a segment on the news the other night about a hydrogen kit for 
>>>cars.
>>>It
>>> employs a mason jar as a generator, fills it with distilled water and 
>>> some
>>> baking soda, and it bubbles hydrogen.  The hydrogen is routed into the
>>> fuel
>>> mixture before the intake manifold.  The lady interviewed that had one
>>> claims
>>> it has doubled her gas mileage.  The kit cost around two hundred 
>>> daollars.
>> _______________________________________________

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Aug  1 13:33:37 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 15:33:37 EDT
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Hydrogen fuel.
Message-ID: <c86.37072447.35c4bf11@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/1/2008 2:16:51 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ambritts at bellsouth.net writes: 
> >This is a growing area here in Florida. Better known as "Brown's Gas", its 
> 
> >been around for years. A google search will shed more light. There is a 
> >company in Clearwater that has a contract with the military to fit out 
> >"Humvees". The attached sites lend some additional info. GE is working on 
> >this as you will see from the site below. The military has used it in 
> >different forms for years as well as industry. Just lately smaller units 
> >have been constructed to fit cars, both diesel and gas. I have seen these 
> >many times and know people who claim mileage improvements anywhere from 
> >10% to 40% depending on the unit and its construction. There are a few of 
> >us here looking to build these for our daily drivers. After getting the 
> >instructions, ($50) you can build the units for under $15. FWIW. So the 
> >big question.............where has it been all these years?
> 
On the same shelf as all the other snake oils.  Since you are googling Browns 
Water look at the Wikipedia entry.  Specifically:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water-fuelled_car

Running a car on hydrogen presents one big problem: Where do you get the 
hydrogen?  Most methods involve some other energy source either electric or 
chemical.  There's no magic there other than the smoke and mirrors kind. 

Dave   

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Aug  1 14:45:40 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 16:45:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR/NATC convention
Message-ID: <489375F4.5030203@bright.net>

List members, if you are attending this event, please stop by our 
display.  We will be open Tuesday - Thursday in the hotel vendor area 
and Friday at the car show.  Engine, suspension, brake goodies all on 
display along with our gear reduction starters.  Tuesday afternoon I am 
presenting a tech session on testing, tools and performance. Wednesday 
morning Mike Cook and myself are doing a session on what it was like "in 
the day". This will be from a corporate viewpoint, dealer viewpoint and 
competition viewpoint.  "Win on Sunday and hopefully sell on Monday!"  
If there is something you want me to bring, please call or email soon.  
If I can bring it along, you save shipping.  See you there.  Thanks for 
your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Fri Aug  1 14:49:44 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 16:49:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Fw:  Hydrogen fuel.
Message-ID: <03ca01c8f418$2175a650$6401a8c0@STATION6>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: Hydrogen fuel.


> In a message dated 8/1/2008 2:16:51 PM Central Daylight Time,
> ambritts at bellsouth.net writes:
>> >This is a growing area here in Florida. Better known as "Brown's Gas", 
>> >its
>>
>> >been around for years. A google search will shed more light. There is a
>> >company in Clearwater that has a contract with the military to fit out
>> >"Humvees". The attached sites lend some additional info. GE is working 
>> >on
>> >this as you will see from the site below. The military has used it in
>> >different forms for years as well as industry. Just lately smaller units
>> >have been constructed to fit cars, both diesel and gas. I have seen 
>> >these
>> >many times and know people who claim mileage improvements anywhere from
>> >10% to 40% depending on the unit and its construction. There are a few 
>> >of
>> >us here looking to build these for our daily drivers. After getting the
>> >instructions, ($50) you can build the units for under $15. FWIW. So the
>> >big question.............where has it been all these years?
>>
> On the same shelf as all the other snake oils.  Since you are googling 
> Browns
> Water look at the Wikipedia entry.  Specifically:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water-fuelled_car
>
> Running a car on hydrogen presents one big problem: Where do you get the
> hydrogen?  Most methods involve some other energy source either electric 
> or
> chemical.  There's no magic there other than the smoke and mirrors kind.
>
> Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug  1 15:17:06 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 14:17:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W24430F056F773666071F32E57F0@phx.gbl>
References: <001e01c8f30e$f88ad940$6500a8c0@Edscomputer><005d01c8f313$e4afbdf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<BAY110-W24430F056F773666071F32E57F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <DD7D6B20131640E584179A50EA3F4287@jdnet.deere.com>

> The kit cost around two hundred daollars.

LOTS cheaper than the Brooklyn Bridge; and just as useful!

From bengeult at comcast.net  Fri Aug  1 15:21:19 2008
From: bengeult at comcast.net (Greg Bengeult)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 14:21:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Hydrogen fuel.
In-Reply-To: <c86.37072447.35c4bf11@cs.com>
References: <c86.37072447.35c4bf11@cs.com>
Message-ID: <48937E4F.8060203@comcast.net>

Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/1/2008 2:16:51 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> ambritts at bellsouth.net writes: 
>   
>>> This is a growing area here in Florida. Better known as "Brown's Gas", its 
>>>       
>>> been around for years. A google search will shed more light. There is a 
>>> company in Clearwater that has a contract with the military to fit out 
>>> "Humvees". The attached sites lend some additional info. GE is working on 
>>> this as you will see from the site below. The military has used it in 
>>> different forms for years as well as industry. Just lately smaller units 
>>> have been constructed to fit cars, both diesel and gas. I have seen these 
>>> many times and know people who claim mileage improvements anywhere from 
>>> 10% to 40% depending on the unit and its construction. There are a few of 
>>> us here looking to build these for our daily drivers. After getting the 
>>> instructions, ($50) you can build the units for under $15. FWIW. So the 
>>> big question.............where has it been all these years?
>>>       
> On the same shelf as all the other snake oils.  Since you are googling Browns 
> Water look at the Wikipedia entry.  Specifically:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water-fuelled_car
>
> Running a car on hydrogen presents one big problem: Where do you get the 
> hydrogen?  Most methods involve some other energy source either electric or 
> chemical.  There's no magic there other than the smoke and mirrors kind. 
>
> Dave   
>   
A more appropriate reference for this discussion would be
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_fuel_injection

The Brown's Gas injection process doesn't replace the normal fuel 
mixture as in the
water-fuelled car article, it merely adds free hydrogen to the fuel 
mixture.  This allows the
car to run a much leaner mixture under certain conditions (like idle or 
low load) with a
corresponding improvement in both fuel economy and emissions.  
Unfortunately for
the people who just fabricate their own unit, it takes extensive 
modifications to the
ECU's air/fuel mixture map to take full advantage of the system.

Greg

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Aug  1 16:01:09 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 18:01:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel.
In-Reply-To: <DD7D6B20131640E584179A50EA3F4287@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <BAY110-W24430F056F773666071F32E57F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48934F65.2927.9E8D37D@localhost>

On 1 Aug 2008 at 14:17, Randall wrote:

> LOTS cheaper than the Brooklyn Bridge; and just as useful!

Ah, lots of people find the Brooklyn Bridge useful, though admittedly 
only those people who need to go between Manhattan and Brooklyn.  I 
myself have walked across it once by necessity, seein' as how the 
subway line was stopped that morning because of flooding on some 
tracks somewhere and I had to get to Brooklyn.  Granted, the BB sure 
won't do you much good down there in SoCal!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From greg at miranoconsulting.com  Fri Aug  1 16:16:15 2008
From: greg at miranoconsulting.com (Greg Tobin)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 22:16:15 +0000
Subject: [TR] 68/69 GT6+ for sale
Message-ID: <W2870411763270371217628975@webmail36>

Hi All-

Ibve been on thelist now for almost 20 years.Geez, thisages me, but then, I
was only 19 when I joinedb& ;)I started my Triumph ownership with a79 1500
that I bought when I was 16.I purchased a few others since then, andstill own
a 72 MKIV, and the subject of this email, a 68 (or 69) GT6+.


Ibve decided that I have had it too long (12 years), and Iwill not be able
to ever build it up.Ihave moved it across the country and itbs now just
taking up space in thegarage.Ibd rather not list it out on eBay,since the
list has always been the place for me (in fact, I bought most of iton the
listb&) So, what I would like to do is to not piece it out, it will go asa
whole lot.Youbll obviously need aflatbed to get it all home, and I live in
Oregon, nice and convenient foreveryoneb&.Will I miss it?Yes.Istill have my
72 MKIV, but Ibll miss having the 6 in the garage, and itbs timeto let it
go.Besides, Ibm probably movingto China, and I canbt bring it with me...
;)
Itbs a project car, but a good project car.A lot of the crappy work has
already beendone- youbre working with a very decent base on this car.The
parts youbll be buying are the partsyoubd buy anyways, all the
replenishables, the brake lines, redobing thehydraulics, new seats, etc.


I have a writeup of it at: http://redracecar.blogspot.com and the pics are
at:http://flickr.com/photos/ultimatevanity/sets/72157605798719193/.Intaking
the pics, the colour balance on the camera is off.What looks like rust on the
body pics is notrust, itbs dust, with a 'd'.The flashpictures show the
accurate silver colour.It really looks rattier in the pics than it is in
reality, I was kind ofbummed with the pics. There is one pic that Joe Curry
will like, though it's not on the car... ;)

The price?1500$Make me an offer, It needs a new home. Questions, call or email
me-

Greg Tobin (Portland, OR)
greg at miranoconsulting.com
503-848-7218




Greg Tobin
Mirano Consulting
Cell: 719.237.9533

++++++ CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE ++++++
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From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Aug  1 16:23:24 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 15:23:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] changed points..........runs like chit......lol
Message-ID: <848088.45787.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I'm breaking in a fresh engine and have around 200 trouble free miles.  It's been running good except the points were very very worn.  I changed to new ones several days ago and now it runs like chit.  I can't get a "miss" out of it.  Seems worse on acceleration.  

Another strange thing i've never had happen before is that the timing has changed from 7-8 btdc to around 23 btdc.  The idle speed also increased around 500 rpm's.  Things i still need to check out are plugs/wires ect.  I thought i'd throw this out to the list.

thanks!

gary nafziger

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug  1 17:16:13 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 16:16:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] changed points..........runs like chit......lol
In-Reply-To: <848088.45787.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <848088.45787.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5E48B115AE694B9B90D0B6FB40BD819B@jdnet.deere.com>

> Another strange thing i've never had happen before is that the timing has
> changed from 7-8 btdc to around 23 btdc.

Well, the most obvious thing would be not getting the gap right, since that
would affect the timing.  Have you double-checked the point gap?

If not that, I would guess that the advance mechanism is broken or jammed
somehow.  If I remember correctly, the condenser is mounted with a special
short screw and using a longer one can jam the mechanism.

> Things i still need to check out are plugs/wires ect.

I would get the timing right first, as overly advanced timing will not only
make it run bad, but can permanently damage the motor.  Having the point gap
too wide (which will result in advanced timing) also causes problems with
weak spark, especially at higher rpm, which can cause the motor to run
poorly.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Aug  1 17:52:43 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 19:52:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] changed points..........runs like chit......lol
In-Reply-To: <5E48B115AE694B9B90D0B6FB40BD819B@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <848088.45787.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4893698B.873.A4EF6F3@localhost>

On 1 Aug 2008 at 16:16, Randall wrote:

> > ...the timing has changed from 7-8 btdc to around 23 btdc.
>
> Well, the most obvious thing would be not getting the gap right,
> since that would affect the timing.  Have you double-checked
> the point gap?

True, but another question is why it moved at all.  One possibility 
is that the points wore abnormally or broke.  If the cam follower 
wore away, the timing would have moved backwards (unless I've got it 
totally wrong).  If the points burned themselves away or perhaps 
broke (which I saw happen on a Datsun 510) the timing would have 
moved forward.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Aug  1 18:05:02 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 20:05:02 EDT
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Hydrogen fuel.
Message-ID: <c6d.2e60c83b.35c4feae@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/1/2008 4:38:34 PM Central Daylight Time, 
bengeult at comcast.net writes: 
> A more appropriate reference for this discussion would be
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_fuel_injection
> 
> The Brown's Gas injection process doesn't replace the normal fuel 
> mixture as in the
> water-fuelled car article, it merely adds free hydrogen to the fuel 
> mixture.  This allows the
> car to run a much leaner mixture under certain conditions (like idle or 
> low load) with a
> corresponding improvement in both fuel economy and emissions.  
> Unfortunately for
> the people who just fabricate their own unit, it takes extensive 
> modifications to the
> ECU's air/fuel mixture map to take full advantage of the system.
> 
Now that makes sense.  Teh question is, how frequently can it be used.  They 
talk about at idle conditions but very little fuel is used during idle (except 
in LA rush hour traffic).  If this effect can be utilized during cruise 
conditions where most cars spend most of their time it can be of real benefit.

But, as you say, the ECU needs some serious reprogramming.  Otherwise there 
is no significant reduction in gasoline consumption and hence no benefits.

Dave   

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Aug  1 18:19:02 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 20:19:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] changed points..........runs like chit......lol
In-Reply-To: <5E48B115AE694B9B90D0B6FB40BD819B@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <848088.45787.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<5E48B115AE694B9B90D0B6FB40BD819B@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <200808012019.02341.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

Yes set the static timming at 4 BTDC and do set the points correctly.

Too far advanced and the engine will run but will have no power and will take 
forever getting up to speed.

I always set it with a light bulb and then use the micrometer to adjust by ear 
and feel.

And what is a chit???

BOb

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Fri Aug  1 21:12:03 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 23:12:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Hydrogen fuel.
References: <d16.3179f9b7.35c4fa23@cs.com>
Message-ID: <045601c8f44d$8a4cb080$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Dave,
Very interesting discussion. Question though.......if the energy to split the
water is carried out within the recharging system of the car.........hence no
recognizable lost or cost and the hydrogen enters the fuel system
unobstructed, where is the lost of benefit? Further to the ECU air/fuel
mixture, it is my understanding that adjustments are made within the scope and
parameters of the unit to handle the amount of hydrogen generated. Thus the
limitation to the number of units that you can install. One improves, two is
better, four units generate more than the system can handle on a normal gas
engine vehicle.
Alex
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dave1massey at cs.com
  To: ambritts at bellsouth.net
  Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 7:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: Hydrogen fuel.


  In a message dated 8/1/2008 3:49:40 PM Central Daylight Time,
ambritts at bellsouth.net writes:

    The hydrogen is generated right in the engine compartment and the
electrical
    source is the battery. Quite simple. You can see the hydrogen being
    generated as the units are transparent. Try this site to see the unit.
    www.water4gas.com  There's really no smoke and mirrors. I am not
    recommending anything other than supplying some information for those who
    wish to know more. Does it work? I'll let you know. At $4/gal for gas a
$10
    investment is worth the exercise for me.


  The problem with generating the hydrogen is that it takes more energy to
split water than you get back by burning it.  Otherwise you would have a
perpetual motion device which is theoretically impossible.

  Dave

From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Aug  1 22:24:54 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 22:24:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Hydrogen fuel.
In-Reply-To: <045601c8f44d$8a4cb080$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <d16.3179f9b7.35c4fa23@cs.com>
	<045601c8f44d$8a4cb080$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <4893E196.3040408@dfn.com>

Alex wrote:
> Dave,
> Very interesting discussion. Question though.......if the energy to split the
> water is carried out within the recharging system of the car.........hence no
> recognizable lost or cost and the hydrogen enters the fuel system
> unobstructed, where is the lost of benefit?

To understand why this is of very limited value, one has to understand 
energy balance equations. Simply, the charging system of the car isn't 
"free" energy. It takes some power from the engine to run the 
alternator, and, further, there are transmission losses from the engine 
to the alternator.  That means that the current to enable electrolysis 
is made from fuel expenditure--at a fairly low efficiency. Add it all up 
and the benefit is negligible.  I would guess that simply modifying the 
fuel maps is the greatest contributor to any savings, rather than the 
introduction of hydrogen to the fuel mixture. The addition of hydrogen 
actually may be necessary to get the likely very lean mixtures to ignite 
at all.
 

This, in fact, was the principle behind early Honda CVCC engines.  That 
engine used two combustion chambers--one, a very small pre-chamber that 
used the spark plug to ignite a very small volume of mixture at 
near-stoichiometric proportions, and that burning mixture was used to 
ignite a very lean mixture in the main chamber.


It's just a given function of Otto-cycle engines that fuel metering and 
air flow at idle is very inefficient--and even more so with fixed cam 
timing.  That's why the small hybrids perform as they do--because most 
will shut off the engine when it's not being used to actually move the 
vehicle. So, the answer to the problem is not to spend money tinkering 
with a system that will likely produce mechanical problems down the road 
(particularly valve erosion from higher combustion chamber 
temperatures), but, rather, to invest in newer technology that addresses 
the idle problem through a systems approach and achieves much higher 
overall mileage improvements.



Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Aug  2 07:59:56 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 09:59:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Hydrogen fuel.
Message-ID: <ca1.39d5eb93.35c5c25c@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/1/2008 10:12:30 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ambritts at bellsouth.net writes: 
> Very interesting discussion. Question though.......if the energy to split 
> the water is carried out within the recharging system of the car.........hence 
> no recognizable lost or cost and the hydrogen enters the fuel system 
> unobstructed, where is the lost of benefit?

...no recognizable lost or cost?  Try leaving your alternator belt loose once 
and see what happens.  The energy generated by the alternator comes from 
mechanical loading on the engine.  A 100 Amp alternator will requuire nearly 2 HP 
to turn at full load.  How much current is required by the hydrogen generator?

Einstein said energy is neither created or destroyed.  An alternator converts 
mechanical energy to electrical energy.  There is no free lunch.

 
> Further to the ECU air/fuel mixture, it is my understanding that 
> adjustments are made within the scope and parameters of the unit to handle the amount 
> of hydrogen generated. Thus the limitation to the number of units that you can 
> install. One improves, two is better, four units generate more than the 
> system can handle on a normal gas engine vehicle.

In a car with electronic fuel injection the ECU will automatically adjust the 
fuel to maintain a desired oxygen content in the exhaust.  This doesn't give 
you ultra lean running which is the goal, it mearly reduces the amount of 
gasoline to compensate for the hydrogen that has been introduced.  To get ulta 
lean you will need to reprogram the ECU to run ultra leave.

In a car with carbs there is no automatic mixture adjustment.  If the carbs 
are SU's or Strombergs the idle/run mixture relationship is a function of the 
needle taper and you would have to make custom needles.  If you are running a 
carb more typical of an American car there is a separate idle mixture 
adjustment and one could crank way back on that adjustment.  But that only effects 
economy at idle and at very light throttle settings.  And if you run out of 
hydrogen you have to get out and change the setting cause the car won't idle.

Dave   

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug  2 08:38:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 07:38:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Hydrogen fuel.
In-Reply-To: <ca1.39d5eb93.35c5c25c@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20080802143850.YOIV9085.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Einstein said energy is neither created or destroyed.  An 
> alternator converts mechanical energy to electrical energy.  
> There is no free lunch.

And it's worse than that, because an alternator also converts mechanical
energy to heat.  Thus, the electrical energy you get out is only a rather
small fraction of the mechanical energy you put in.  

Electrolysis is also rather inefficient; there is less potential energy in
the hydrogen/oxygen produced than you put into the process.  Takes a fair
amount of heat just to vaporize the water, plus the remaining water gets
hot.

Fundamental laws of thermodynamics :

1) You can't win.

2) You can't even break even (no process is 100% efficient)

3) There's no way out of the game.

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  2 09:25:20 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 15:25:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Hydrogen fuel.
In-Reply-To: <48937E4F.8060203@comcast.net>
References: <c86.37072447.35c4bf11@cs.com>
  <48937E4F.8060203@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W5226153FCACB034FF11875E57E0@phx.gbl>

>Unfortunately for the people who just fabricate their own unit, it takes
extensive modifications to the ECU's air/fuel mixture map to take full
advantage of the system.

That was one of my concerns about the hydrogen system.  However, if you own a
Ford car you can contact Blue Oval Chips (NFI) and buy a custom chip to remap
the air fuel mixture to accommodate the hydrogen and maximize it's benefits.
The cost of the chip would be something around $400.00.  I suspect there are
plenty of firms out there that can make similar chips for all the other car
brands.

So if the installation of the hydrogen system costs $600.00 total and produces
a 20% increase in combustion efficiency then you would recover the cost of the
installation in about 1000 gallons of gas at $4.00/Gal.  For me that is 67
tanks of gas or just about one year of driving.  From a financial perspective
a one year payback is excellent on any investment.

I have a 460 C.I. Ford van that will get the hydrogen kit in the near future.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
Contest
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From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  2 09:57:23 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 15:57:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] Air management valve.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W52166B7FBE1A962904FDB1E57E0@phx.gbl>

Does anyone on the list know of a way to test an Air Management valve on a V8
engine?  Thanks.

Best regards,
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get Windows Live and get whatever you need, wherever you are.  Start here.
http://www.windowslive.com/default.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Home_082008

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sat Aug  2 10:40:55 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2008 10:40:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel... Part One.
Message-ID: <48948E17.7050903@dfn.com>

Looks like this message was too long for the message filter, so, I'm 
splitting it in two.


Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
>
> ...no recognizable lost or cost?  Try leaving your alternator belt 
> loose once and see what happens.  The energy generated by the 
> alternator comes from mechanical loading on the engine.  A 100 Amp 
> alternator will requuire nearly 2 HP to turn at full load.  How much 
> current is required by the hydrogen generator?
>
> Einstein said energy is neither created or destroyed.  An alternator 
> converts mechanical energy to electrical energy.  There is no free lunch.
>   

I'll only add a couple of things to what Dave says here--2 hp is very 
generous. At full output, 100 A at 14V would be 1400 watts, or 1.88 hp. 
That would assume virtually no losses, and a polyphase alternator with 
simple rectification to DC would dissipate a fair amount of energy as 
heat, between winding resistance and diode heating, so alternator 
efficiency is more likely going to be in the range of 60% or so, taking 
the required input power to about 3.2 hp. Add in belt losses and the 
actual horsepower consumed is going to be more like 4.5-5.0 hp.


The other concern is how much power is required to produce a given 
amount of hydrogen.  If I recall my chemistry, electrolysis is a very 
predictable performer--the voltage and amperage determine the rate of 
production.  If you can get the electrolysis cell to run at a full 14V, 
the output would be about 0.25 ml (at standard temperature and pressure) 
of H2 gas per second per ampere at the cathode.  That's about 1 x 
10^(-5) gram-moles of hydrogen gas. For argument's sake, let's say that 
50A of alternator output is devoted to hydrogen production. That means 
the electrolysis unit is producing roughly 5 x 10^(-4) gram-moles of H2 
per second.  Since free hydrogen is a diatomic molecule with each atom 
an atomic weight of very slightly more than 1, that's 0.001 grams of 
hydrogen fuel produced per second, using around 2.5 hp.


Part two follows....

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sat Aug  2 10:42:57 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2008 10:42:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two.
Message-ID: <48948E91.4020005@dfn.com>

 From standard conversion charts, 1 Kg of hydrogen has very nearly the 
same fuel value as one gallon of gasoline (1.04 gal).  For most valved 
gasoline engines, fuel consumption is about 1/2 pound per horsepower per 
hour.  So, to run the electrolysis cell for one hour, even with better 
engine fuel efficiencies than at idle, the total amount of gasoline used 
would be about 1.25 pounds, or about 0.2 gallons of gasoline. In return, 
the electrolysis cell has produced (3.6 x 10^3) x (1 x 10^(-3) ) grams 
of H2, or 3.6 grams of H2, or about 0.0036 Kg of hydrogen gas, for a net 
conversion efficiency of (1.04 x 0.0036) / 0.2 = 1.9%.


This means that one is expending 50 times the fuel energy in gasoline 
that one receives in output of hydrogen.  The reasons for this are 
fairly obvious--gasoline fuel must be burned to form combustion gases 
and to heat the inlet air.  Then there are mechanical losses in the 
engine in turning the crankshaft. Then there are mechanical and 
electrical losses in the production of electricity to run the 
electrolysis cell.  Then there are the fixed characteristics of the cell 
itself in terms of how much gas can be produced for a given voltage and 
current.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug  2 11:48:57 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 10:48:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Air management valve.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W52166B7FBE1A962904FDB1E57E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080802174857.ZFGD19640.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Does anyone on the list know of a way to test an Air 
> Management valve on a V8 engine? 

Sure, substitution is one way.

For more suggestions than that, you'll probably need to tell us which V8
engine, and what the valve does.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug  2 11:56:51 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 10:56:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Hydrogen fuel.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W5226153FCACB034FF11875E57E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080802175651.CCZY15817.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> So if the installation of the hydrogen system costs $600.00 
> total and produces a 20% increase in combustion efficiency 
> then you would recover the cost of the installation in about 
> 1000 gallons of gas at $4.00/Gal.

You've assumed that "combustion efficiency" translates directly to better
fuel mileage.  That ignores the considerable engine output needed to run the
hydrogen generator; which will be more than 20% of what it take to move the
vehicle, for a net loss.

Besides which, it's impossible to improve "combustion efficiency" by 20%.
Modern car engines already totally combust well over 99% of the fuel intake
so even a 1% improvement is impossible.

Randall

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Aug  2 12:31:47 2008
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:31:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Fender Repair Panels
Message-ID: <279228.61992.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am looking for a repair/patch panel or a TR6 front lower fender. It looks like Moss and TRF don't make them. Does anyone else have a source?

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Aug  2 14:21:20 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 16:21:20 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 as a 1st Car
Message-ID: <c8b.308f1ee3.35c61bc0@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
What a hoot!  Took the 3B out for a run today, first to the auto parts  store 
and then to the car wash.  A guy literally followed me into the car  wash and 
proceeded to tell me all kinds of stories of how his first car was a 62  TR3. 
I asked him if it was a B but he really didn't know.  He said he  bought it 
for $450 when he was 16 drove it for a year then sold it for $750 only  because 
a guy was bugging him so much and had to have. He said it was very  reliable 
never had a problem with it. When I popped the bonnet the guys eyes  bugged 
out and I believe we will have another Triumph owner in the near  future .
 
Then I stop at he Booze store to stock up for the upcoming NATC,  picked up 
some Old Leg Hummer for Marty's Brew Swap, ( So Many Legs So Little  Time) and 
dang it the guy there doesn't tell me that his first car was a  TR3A.  He said 
he paid $400 bucks for it for it needed a drive shaft, drove  it for 3 year 
and the bought a TR4A. He was focused on Triumphs are big time  better than 
MG's for he like the torque that Triumphs offered. I just said  variety is the 
spice of life and with MG's you have the rubber bumper and chrome  bumper and we 
all know what we have with our Triumphs.
 
Darrell



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  2 17:16:51 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 16:16:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] points change troubles
Message-ID: <418248.32809.qm@web59607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I'd like to thank everyone for the help/suggestions with my post concerning
point change that made the 6 run worse.  Apparently I had the wrong points.  I
had purchased the points for the early dizzy (two vacuum pots) instead of
points for the later one (retard only).  
How i made the wrong points work
amazes me.  Some how I got the two plates separated (theres like a bold head
which slides in a slot that holds the two together).  When this head slipped
out it held the two plates apart........and somehow i secured the points and
set at .015 and it did run (very badly).  Finally today i tore it all apart
and put it back together correctly..........and ended up not being able to fit
the points at all.  The rub pad would not reach the post at all.  Totally
flumoxed I went back to my order sheet and TRF parts book and hopefully I've
found the answer by ordering correct points.  Not sure why I didn't research
things better in the beginning.
And I do have electronic ignition ready to put
on along with sport coil.  I just wanted to break in the engine and get it
running well before changing.  I also want to have a good spare
points/condenser mounted on plate to carry along in case the crane system goes
boink. lol
again.............LOVE the list.......thanks everyone!
gary
nafziger

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  2 17:43:17 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 16:43:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Arizona Driving Event
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808021643j1e9295d9g3e963c59c637ccec@mail.gmail.com>

Received the following about an Arizona event patterned after the (now
departed) California-based Iron Bottom tour.  That was the 3-day
no-frills tour that would take off from the Rose Bowl one weekend in
April.

I think I'm down for this one.

Geo


>   ----- Original Message -----
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>   Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 17:19:26 -0700
>   From: arizona.roadrunner at yahoo.com
>   Subject: Just 2 Months to the Roadrunner
>
>         Just 2 months from now is the first annual Arizona Roadrunner
> Motoring Tour.  This is a 3-day tour for Vintage British Motorcars on the
> 2-lane blacktops of Arizona.  Yes, you can go anywhere in AZ without setting
> tire on interstate if you study the maps a bit.
>
>         Details can always be found here:
>
>         http://www.geocities.com/arizona.roadrunner/
>
>         Sadly, the tour that inspired the Roadrunner has itself made its
> last run:
>
>         http://www.bench-racing.com/html/no_frills.html
>
>         Safe and sane driving is the order of the day for us -- the demise
> of the grand-daddy of no-frills driving is a reminder of the importance of
> that principle.
>
>         No RSVP is required but you will want to make a room reservation for
> 2 nights in Flagstaff.  Some will stay at Little America but many other
> choices are available.
>
>         Please read all the info on the website to assure you and your car
> are ready.
>
>         Thanks to all of you who have expressed an interest in this and plan
> to attend.
>
>         Joe

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sat Aug  2 18:34:16 2008
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 01:34:16 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Fender Repair Panels
In-Reply-To: <279228.61992.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <279228.61992.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4894FD08.2080002@virgin.net>

TR Bitz (a Google search will find them) in UK manufacture a TR4A lower 
wing repair panel.

Maybe they also make one for the TR6.

Worth contacting, NFI

Adrian TR4A CT 64306 O
Wales UK

William Brewer wrote:
>      I am looking for a repair/patch panel or a TR6 front lower fender. It looks like Moss and TRF don't make them. Does anyone else have a source?
>
>      Bill Brewer
>      Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Harrymague at aol.com  Sat Aug  2 19:19:35 2008
From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 21:19:35 EDT
Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 Wiring Question
Message-ID: <c39.39ce496e.35c661a7@aol.com>

At the British Car show in Dayton today, a guy asked me a question on my 6  
that is driving me crazy.  In the main wiring harness, under the brake and  
clutch master cylinders, there is an electrical connector with six wires.   One 
side has two white and a black/blue and the other side has two white/orange  
and a black/blue wires.  Looking at the wiring diagram for my year, I can't  
find any such connector.  I can't remember when I got this new harness, but  
there was an explanation that can with it and I can't find nor can I  remember.  
Help,  I don't like not being able to answer questions like  this.  
Thanks
Harry Mage
Beavercreek OH



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sat Aug  2 22:06:03 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 00:06:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A Ignition switch
Message-ID: <ceb.3d703a72.35c688ab@aol.com>

I've discovered that my "loose connection" under my dash which sometimes  
keeps me from starting the car until I wiggle the wires, is an internittent  
connectionin in my ignition switch. I have removed the switch, re-dressed  the 
wired ends and tested it. I'm convinced the intermittent is internal to the  
switch.
Does anyone stock the correct (screw type connection) ignition  switch?
 
Has anyone tried disassembling the switch by drilling out the two  rivets and 
replacing with bolts?
 

Thanks, Mike Moore 
 
59 TR3A
 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug  3 00:41:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 23:41:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Ignition switch
In-Reply-To: <ceb.3d703a72.35c688ab@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080803064149.LZLX14026.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Has anyone tried disassembling the switch by drilling out the 
> two  rivets and replacing with bolts?

Yes, I ran one like that for many years.  Worked for me right up until the
car got wrecked.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug  3 01:01:28 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 00:01:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <c39.39ce496e.35c661a7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080803070128.ERUT19640.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> At the British Car show in Dayton today, a guy asked me a 
> question on my 6 that is driving me crazy.  In the main 
> wiring harness, under the brake and  
> clutch master cylinders, there is an electrical connector 
> with six wires.   One 
> side has two white and a black/blue and the other side has 
> two white/orange and a black/blue wires.

Well, the colors don't quite match, but ... could you have a 76 harness and
that's the connector for the seat belt module ?

Randall

From ronald.olds at mchsi.com  Sun Aug  3 05:54:40 2008
From: ronald.olds at mchsi.com (Ronald Olds)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 07:54:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Coco Floor Mats
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAuAAAAAAAAAGR0/UN+345Oi0ESU7rmM4wBAITr15KniR9MuVqf/6yjAv4AAAFImMEAABAAAADCRboOKNNXQrzS2lIqv6n6AQAAAAA=@mchsi.com>

I remember someone was looking for coco floor mats for their car.  The link
below is has them on sale for 50% off.

 

http://www.herringtoncatalog.com/ms341.html

 

Ron Olds

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug  3 07:57:36 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 13:57:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two.
In-Reply-To: <48948E91.4020005@dfn.com>
References: <48948E91.4020005@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W5C33A8290F616191526AFE5790@phx.gbl>

> This means that one is expending 50 times the fuel energy in gasoline
> that one receives in output of hydrogen.

So what's your point.  The engine is running anyway.  At 5 HP to run a
hydrogen generator it is cheap compared to say air conditioning or a
mechanical water pump.  The question is really can the increased fuel mileage
from the hydrogen offset the fuel consumption used to produce it.  Thus far
every article on the hydrogen system reports fuel efficiency savings from it's
use.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
Contest
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug  3 08:04:58 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 14:04:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] Air management valve.
In-Reply-To: <20080802174857.ZFGD19640.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <BAY110-W52166B7FBE1A962904FDB1E57E0@phx.gbl>
	<20080802174857.ZFGD19640.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W36B96398841C37BA8182D2E5790@phx.gbl>

Hi Randall,

Substitution is not a really practical option since the air management (AMV)
valve cost $280.00.  The engine is a 460 C.I. Ford.  I am still having trouble
getting it to pass smog.  This has not been a problem since I rebuilt the
engine twenty years ago and the engine is still in good operating condition.
One vacuum check had it running at 19 - 20 Lbs. of vacuum.

My question stems from the fact that I replaced the air management valve as
one of the first repairs I did to the car this year.  However, on my first
attempt to start the engine after installing the new AMV the engine back fired
through the carb.  When it did that I saw a puff of fluid come out of the new
AMG.  I am wondering if I ruined the new AMG on the first attempt.

I would appreciate your thoughts on this.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Reveal your inner athlete and share it with friends on Windows Live.
http://revealyourinnerathlete.windowslive.com?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WLY
IA_whichathlete_us

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Aug  3 08:46:37 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 10:46:37 EDT
Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 Wiring Question
Message-ID: <c94.3703b999.35c71ecd@aol.com>

Harry,
 
I have a '76 TR6 which I've restored to mostly original spec....there's no  
connector in the wiring harness below the brake servo/MC nor have I ever seen a 
 connector in this spot on the TR6 Carb versions.  It's been awhile since  
I've had a chance to look at a PI TR6 - maybe they use a factory connector in  
the harness at that point for the PI system components.  You didn't mention  PI 
so I assume you've got carbs buy maybe the car was originally fitted with  
PI??
 
My wiring harness splits off with one direction towards the front of the  car 
(lights, coil, oil sender, horn, etc.) and the other split heads up to the  
fuse block but no connector.....if you can take a digital pic and send it to me 
 off line, I could ID it for you.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/2/2008 9:20:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Harrymague at aol.com writes:

In the  main wiring harness, under the brake and  
clutch master cylinders,  there is an electrical connector with six  wires.




**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Sun Aug  3 08:55:59 2008
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 10:55:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two.
Message-ID: <d4b.35ea37ee.35c720ff@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/3/08 9:58:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes:

<< So what's your point.  The engine is running anyway.  Best regards,  Tom   >
>

Added load on the engine = more fuel burned.  Just because the engine is
"running anyway" doesn't mean there is free energy for the taking.  Take a look
 at
the fuel / run time specs for a portable generator, _EVERY_ generator has
reduced run time per tank the higher load.   Please explain how a portable
generator uses more fuel at higher load if it is running anyway.

Manufactured Hydrogen is a energy storage medium ( like a battery ) where we
need to break atomic bonds to liberate H. There are losses in _EVERY_ energy
conversion.  Petroleum is a energy source where we just separate the mixture to
make it useful.

Hydrogen is useful in transporting electrical energy from a waterfall / wind
farm to a mobile energy consumer.  There is supposedly a way to extract H from
natural gas, this would follow the petroleum model however there will be
conversion losses.  Running compressed nat gas would be more efficient as the
losses would be less.

To think Hydrogen is a free ride is delusional, I bet those that think so are
the same people who build elaborate conspiracies ranging from UFOs to the
govt blew up buildings in NYC.

Harold
**************
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your
budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.

(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017
 )

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun Aug  3 09:33:30 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 11:33:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] VTR-NATC  En route reports
Message-ID: <c3d.3ac8e9cc.35c729ca@cs.com>

3 August 08   10:34AM Sunday

Californians Paulette Caudill & Dennis Lambert are currently on Highway 20 
crossing the Heartland at Triumph Speed.

Irv Korey and his entourage left Chicago and are in search of the new crop of 
Michigan Cherries. Or maybe they are going to join Madonna in Traverse, MI

Joe A

   </HTML>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug  3 10:06:55 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 09:06:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W5C33A8290F616191526AFE5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080803160655.ISOH9085.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> The engine is running anyway.

Ah, so if one follows that logic, you should get twice the mpg at 100 mph
that you do at 50 mph, because it only takes half as long to go a mile.

> The question is 
> really can the increased fuel mileage from the hydrogen 
> offset the fuel consumption used to produce it.

If so, it would be a perpetual motion machine.  Simply impossible.  That's
the reason there is no "patent pending" on this device; the patent office is
tired of investigating hoaxes so they simply will not accept patent
applications that claim to violate the laws of thermodynamics.

>  Thus far 
> every article on the hydrogen system reports fuel efficiency 
> savings from it's use.

Google for "hydrogen generator hoax".  Here's a typical one :
http://www.tinaja.com/glib/resbn88.pdf
"So, you always waste energy when you create and use hydrogen."

Randall

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sun Aug  3 13:23:13 2008
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 15:23:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] Anyone In SW Colorado?  (No TriumphContent)
Message-ID: <cb7.36655bc9.35c75fa1@aol.com>

OK, this is a real long shot but here goes:
I'm looking at (via Internet) a 1965 Ford Econoline van for sale in Southwest 
Colorado - Ignacio to be more specific.   That's nearly 2,000 miles from me 
and I was wondering if there is anyone on this list who lives near Durango who 
might be willing to be my eyes and take a look at this vehicle.   If so, there 
are a few specific things to look for and questions to be answered.   You 
need not be well-versed in old Ford knowledge.
Sorry to blast the list with non-Triumph stuff but I can't think of another 
way to do this, except hop a plane and see for myself.   I would drive it to 
Rochester, NY if I buy it.
Many thanks and I'll see many of you in Ypsilanti!
George Haynes


**************
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in 
your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.
      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sun Aug  3 14:02:50 2008
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 13:02:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Bow webbing
References: <bc8.354fb457.35c10290@aol.com>
	<7bb181af0807292003g799d072eu93fbc650cd891920@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01fa01c8f5a7$be6df580$8701a8c0@Dell>

When I put my car back together, I used the same webbing, same top bows and 
same top, but it it became extremely difficult to get that final lock in 
place manuever to work. Maybe I just got weaker.  I removed the little hold 
downs on the back bow piece which made it very easy to install the top by 
locking the side joints and then just pushing the rear arm back.  Worked 
fine, except on those very hot days when the top is up to protect from the 
sun, it would collapse on my head as I was driving.

To cut to the chase.. I took the little holdowns off then took some velcro 
(period correct velcro, that is) 3 inches wide by about 4 inches long, stuck 
the 2 sides together so I had one strip with the hooks on one side and the 
loops on the other, and I sewed it to the webbing where it should meet the 
back bow - used one of those sewing awls I got from JCW that has string in 
the handle.  When the top is inposition, I just wrap the velcro around the 
bow and lock in place. Easy up, easy down and drove though the CA central 
valley in 100 degree heat last weekend with no collapses - so it works for 
me.  Just thought I would share in case it helps.

Bob



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
To: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Top Bow webbing


> Here are the instructions from my Amco top of many years past...
>
> http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/top-webbing.GIF
>
> Should only be used as a general guideline as final fitting (I think)
> is more trial & error than an exact science.
>
> I usually use a length of rope thru the mid-point of the bows, looping
> it around each bow to sort of secure it, then dial in the fit.
> _______________________________________________

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Aug  3 14:31:08 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 20:31:08 +0000
Subject: [TR] Magneto (little LBC content)
Message-ID: <080320082031.4090.4896158C0008904A00000FFA22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Sorry to bomb the list.  Having trouble with magneto's rusting in this humid weather.  After I sand these yet again, would a film of light oil or dialectric stop this?

Any replies offlist would be appreciated!

Terry, '59 TR3A 

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sun Aug  3 14:32:19 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 14:32:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W5C33A8290F616191526AFE5790@phx.gbl>
References: <48948E91.4020005@dfn.com>
	<BAY110-W5C33A8290F616191526AFE5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <489615D3.4080607@dfn.com>

tom white wrote:
> > This means that one is expending 50 times the fuel energy in gasoline
> > that one receives in output of hydrogen.
>
> So what's your point.  The engine is running anyway.  At 5 HP to run a 
> hydrogen generator it is cheap compared to say air conditioning or a 
> mechanical water pump.  The question is really can the increased fuel 
> mileage from the hydrogen offset the fuel consumption used to produce 
> it.  Thus far every article on the hydrogen system reports fuel 
> efficiency savings from it's use.
>


No point, I suppose. It's just math. Just science. Just 
electrochemistry. Just mechanics. Just thermodynamics.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug  3 14:40:57 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 13:40:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Magneto (little LBC content)
In-Reply-To: <080320082031.4090.4896158C0008904A00000FFA22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080803204058.FUFM4153.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Sorry to bomb the list.  Having trouble with magneto's 
> rusting in this humid weather.  After I sand these yet again, 
> would a film of light oil or dialectric stop this?

Would certainly help.  Paint would probably be better yet.  Or, there are
various kinds of oil designed to cling and protect, like Cosmoline or
motorcycle chain lube.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Aug  3 14:45:27 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 16:45:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two.
In-Reply-To: <489615D3.4080607@dfn.com>
References: <BAY110-W5C33A8290F616191526AFE5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4895E0A7.19777.45732FA@localhost>

On 3 Aug 2008 at 14:32, Michael Porter wrote:

> No point, I suppose. It's just math. Just science. Just 
> electrochemistry. Just mechanics. Just thermodynamics.

Oh, if *that's* all it is...

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sun Aug  3 15:05:50 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 15:05:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] Air management valve.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W36B96398841C37BA8182D2E5790@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-W52166B7FBE1A962904FDB1E57E0@phx.gbl>
	<20080802174857.ZFGD19640.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<BAY110-W36B96398841C37BA8182D2E5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48961DAE.7010905@dfn.com>

tom white wrote:
> Hi Randall,
>
> Substitution is not a really practical option since the air management (AMV)
> valve cost $280.00.  
The Ford air management valve is nothing more than a combination 
diverter/bypass valve for the air pump circuit.  If it's got one vacuum 
port and three air ports, it's commonly available as an aftermarket 
item, depending on application, for $65-95.


> The engine is a 460 C.I. Ford.  I am still having trouble
> getting it to pass smog.  This has not been a problem since I rebuilt the
> engine twenty years ago and the engine is still in good operating condition.
> One vacuum check had it running at 19 - 20 Lbs. of vacuum.
>   

Umm, if the engine had 20 lbs. of vacuum, it would have imploded.  
That's _inches_ of vacuum.
> My question stems from the fact that I replaced the air management valve as
> one of the first repairs I did to the car this year.  However, on my first
> attempt to start the engine after installing the new AMV the engine back fired
> through the carb.  When it did that I saw a puff of fluid come out of the new
> AMG.  I am wondering if I ruined the new AMG on the first attempt.
>
>   
Unless the valve is unusual for your application it should have just one 
vacuum port.  If the valve is working, there will be no noticeable 
backfiring on deceleration from speed. Disconnect and plug the vacuum 
line to the valve and you should be getting somebackfiring on decel.  As 
well, with the vehicle stopped and the engine idling, and the AMV 
connected and operating normally,  if you disconnect the air supply tube 
leading to the exhaust system from the air pump, you should have air 
pump air output at that point.  If you have no output to the exhaust 
system, it could be either the AMV or the air pump.  You also need to 
check and see if there's a flame trap installed downstream of the 
valve.  If there is, that could be defective and preventing air flow to 
the exhaust system, which can affect emissions.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Aug  3 15:40:15 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 17:40:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Falken Tires
Message-ID: <000501c8f5b1$86589d30$210110ac@bobspc>

Does anybody have any experience with Falken tires....specifically Falken
Ziex ZE-912? Grass Roots Motorsports did a review on budget performance
tires and they tied at #1 with Bridgestone Potenza.

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Sun Aug  3 20:14:28 2008
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 20:14:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill
Message-ID: <000301c8f5d7$d449a8b0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Hello List,
 
Just unboxed my new grill to find it is perfectly flat.  The old grill is
sort of concave and fits the opening in the apron just fine.  
 
It the correct TR3A grill supposed to be flat or is this just the way it
ships and you shape it to fit the opening?   Or, has my front apron been so
re-worked that the opening is 2" shorter than it should be?
 
Thx,
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sun Aug  3 20:50:34 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 22:50:34 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill
Message-ID: <c0c.3f8697f6.35c7c87a@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/3/2008 7:14:59 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
bill_beecher at flash.net writes:

Hello  List,

Just unboxed my new grill to find it is perfectly flat.  The  old grill is
sort of concave and fits the opening in the apron just  fine.  

It the correct TR3A grill supposed to be flat or is this  just the way it
ships and you shape it to fit the opening?   Or,  has my front apron been so
re-worked that the opening is 2" shorter than it  should be?

Thx,

Bill B



Bill,
For lots of years the grilles available as aftermarket (JC Whitney for  
years) were too tall and the lots were too narrow. To make the work, you had to  
curve them. My aprob was reshaped to accomodate those too wide grills  so I  
will have a real problems. Somebody now sells the correct size grill.
 
Mike Moore  59TR3A
 
 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Aug  3 21:29:49 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 03:29:49 +0000
Subject: [TR] VTR-NATC  En route reports
Message-ID: <080420080329.28164.489677AD0006F2DA00006E042205886360970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: N197TR4 at cs.com 

> Irv Korey and his entourage left Chicago and are in search of the new crop of 
> Michigan Cherries. Or maybe they are going to join Madonna in Traverse, MI 

13 TRiumphs and 1 Dolomite Sprint Saloon wannabee left the Chicago area today. Tonight we're in Cadillac, MI. , where 20mpeople can have pizza and beer for $160 including tip. Tomorrow, it's Traverse City. Another caravan of 9 or 10 ISOA cars will leave Tuesday for the short drive to Ypsilanti.
See you guys there.
Irv Korey

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug  4 07:31:53 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 09:31:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two.
Message-ID: <3CD08138.45BD31F9.36296DCF@cs.com>

"Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

>On 3 Aug 2008 at 14:32, Michael Porter wrote:
>
>> No point, I suppose. It's just math. Just science. Just 
>> electrochemistry. Just mechanics. Just thermodynamics.
>
>Oh, if *that's* all it is...
>
>-- 
>Jim Muller
>jimmuller at rcn.com
>'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>You are subscribed as dave1massey at cs.com
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>

Yeah.  Why let facts get in the way of a good story?

Dave

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Aug  4 07:37:33 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 13:37:33 +0000
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two.
In-Reply-To: <d4b.35ea37ee.35c720ff@aol.com>
References: <d4b.35ea37ee.35c720ff@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W32FD06F17D8BB0A2C7FEE1E5780@phx.gbl>

They said man couldn't fly too.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Reveal your inner athlete and share it with friends on Windows Live.
http://revealyourinnerathlete.windowslive.com?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WLY
IA_whichathlete_us

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Mon Aug  4 09:58:58 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 08:58:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Bearings & hub
Message-ID: <000c01c8f64b$01d6e5e0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

I have a couple of questions to the list for their expertise in this area. The
rear right side bearing is making an excessive whine at 3000 rpms. The left
side is not so bad. I also noticed after putting on new Dayton wire wheels
that there seems to be a little run-out on the right side.

My questions are:
1. can the rear bearings come out without removing the axles after the bearing
housing is removed? I have a custom made hub puller that bolts to the original
hub with harden bolts.
2. does the bearing housing typically need to be replaced besides the bearing
& seal? Victoria British sells the bearing, seal & bearing housing as a kit
for $60.00 each, bearings alone are 45.00 each plus 5.00 for the oil seal.
Anyone ever use their kits?
3. Since right rear hub has some run-out can a machine shop plane this and
correct the run-out? Am I better off trying to locate a good used one? Does
any one have one available that is reasonable price?
Thanks in past for the help,
Regards
Ibsen
 59 TR3A
71 TR6

From AA00727 at aol.com  Mon Aug  4 10:00:54 2008
From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 12:00:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] Wiring locations
Message-ID: <d09.3e9cc04d.35c881b6@aol.com>

Hi All,
 
 I need help with my TR 3 restoration! We are at the point of  installing the 
new wiring harness and don't have any good guidance on where the  different 
parts of the harness pass through the firewall, route through the  engine bay, 
etc. Can anyone tell me where accurate pictures of the original  locations may 
be obtained? If not would anyone be willing to email some good  photos of 
their cars that would show us where to route the wires and other  plumbing?   
 I'm really excited to have reached this point but don't want to have  to 
guess at where things should go. Getting it right the first time would save a  
lot of time.
 Thanks!
 Gary 
 _AA00727 at aol.com_ (mailto:AA00727 at aol.com)   
 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Aug  4 10:34:12 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 12:34:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR-NATC  En route reports
In-Reply-To: <c3d.3ac8e9cc.35c729ca@cs.com>
References: <c3d.3ac8e9cc.35c729ca@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W388B282C3E475DD08FF9D5BA780@phx.gbl>

Team Sukey is packing up today. The Spity is already buckled down on the
trailer and rearing to go. The boss had to work this afternoon so we will be
departing Tuesday  morning. The Kalitta Motorsports tour sounds really
interesting but I'm on the fence as to whether I want to get up that early to
make the trip in time to make the tour, especially since we probably wont be
able to check into the hotel that early. You never know though. Either way we
are looking forward to seeing everybody again.

Marty Sukey



> From: N197TR4 at cs.com
> Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 11:33:30 -0400
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] VTR-NATC  En route reports
>
> 3 August 08   10:34AM Sunday
>
> Californians Paulette Caudill & Dennis Lambert are currently on Highway 20
> crossing the Heartland at Triumph Speed.
>
> Irv Korey and his entourage left Chicago and are in search of the new crop
of
> Michigan Cherries. Or maybe they are going to join Madonna in Traverse, MI
>
> Joe A
>
>    </HTML>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Your PC, mobile phone, and online services work together like never before.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108587394/direct/01/

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Mon Aug  4 11:19:31 2008
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 12:19:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR Hotels
Message-ID: <COEHIGDHIJHOCPAJBPBIEEFKCOAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>

Due to a last minute change of plans, it does look like I will be able to
get to Michigan later this week for VTR.  I started calling today and both
of the hotels are full for Wednesday night (the backup could get me in
Thursday and Friday, but at a premium rate).

Is there anyone who has reservations that is not going to be able to make
it?  I would very much like to pickup your unused reservation (I would
prefer the backup hotel, but will take either.)

In advanced, thanks.

Ken Gano

From BrianSmith1 at templeinland.com  Mon Aug  4 12:02:24 2008
From: BrianSmith1 at templeinland.com (Smith, Brian (CP))
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 13:02:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Size of Crank Pully retaining nut.
Message-ID: <0BE807693DADFC41BA5106B845AE05E247214C@p0387psw0200.myInland.com>

Listers,



The subject says it all.  Going to be near a proper tool store today and
would like to buy the correct size first.



Thanks,



Brian Smith

Bogalusa, LA

**********    Confidentiality Notice    **********
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 are confidential and are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s)
identified above. This message may contain information that is privileged,
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If the receiver of this information is not the intended recipient, or the
employee, or agent responsible for delivering the information to the
intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, reading,
dissemination, distribution, copying or storage of this information is
strictly prohibited. If you have received this information in error, please
notify the sender by return email and delete the electronic transmission,
including all attachments from your system.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug  4 12:12:23 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 11:12:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Bearings & hub
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8f64b$01d6e5e0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
References: <000c01c8f64b$01d6e5e0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
Message-ID: <5E07B99F13044FCB923F8CA91D96506D@jdnet.deere.com>

Ibsen :

It always helps to mention which car you are asking about, especially when
there are two of them in your signature.  But the VB comment seems to
suggest TR3, so I'll assume that.

> 1. can the rear bearings come out without removing the axles after the
> bearing
> housing is removed?

It might be possible, but there is no reason to do so, IMO.  I wouldn't go
in there without changing the inner seal anyway; and the weight of the shaft
would likely damage it without the hub to support the axle.  It also takes a
puller or press to get the bearing off the axle, which is going to be much
harder with the shaft still hanging inside the housing.  Besides, it just
pulls out.

> I have a custom made hub puller that bolts to the
> original hub with harden bolts.

But, does it properly support the hub while doing so.  That's the big
problem, because otherwise it can distort and ruin the hub.

> 2. does the bearing housing typically need to be replaced besides the
> bearing & seal?

I've never seen one that needed to be replaced.

> Victoria British sells the bearing, seal & bearing housing as a
> kit for $60.00 each, bearings alone are 45.00 each plus 5.00 for the oil 
> seal.

I believe you are misreading their catalog (which is easy to do).  The kit
for $60 includes the bearing and two seals, one for the "axle end" and one
for the "hub".  In other words, their P/N 5-919 includes their P/N 5-736,
5-866 and 5-881; but NOT 5-3022.

> Anyone ever use their kits?

I have not.  I would much rather buy from the "man who owns one" than from
people who aren't quite sure what a Triumph is.

> 3. Since right rear hub has some run-out can a machine shop plane this and
> correct the run-out?

Theoretically, yes.  But I don't believe it's a good idea.  And first, of
course, you need to be sure it's actually the hub that has a problem, and
not the shaft.  They do sometimes distort and break.

> Am I better off trying to locate a good used one?

Also available new, tho not cheap.

> Does any one have one available that is reasonable price?

Only if you are willing to come "pull it yerself".

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug  4 12:21:05 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 11:21:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Size of Crank Pully retaining nut.
In-Reply-To: <0BE807693DADFC41BA5106B845AE05E247214C@p0387psw0200.myInland.com>
References: <0BE807693DADFC41BA5106B845AE05E247214C@p0387psw0200.myInland.com>
Message-ID: <0598BBB04CD740D2AC819FE5051A99C9@jdnet.deere.com>

> The subject says it all.  Going to be near a proper tool store today and
> would like to buy the correct size first.

Must be for a Spit, I guess, as TRs, Stags, Vitesse, GT6, etc. don't use a
nut to retain the crank pulley.

Randall

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Aug  4 15:21:22 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 14:21:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wiring locations
In-Reply-To: <d09.3e9cc04d.35c881b6@aol.com>
References: <d09.3e9cc04d.35c881b6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808041421h7a3818f5he109d189c22906ec@mail.gmail.com>

You may want to mention your commission number, I assume you have a LHD car.

Attached is a photo that shows the area around the control box.  In
this shot I had left the wires at there full length on the new harness
(so it looks a bit like a spaghetti bowl) but later got brave and
shortened them to look neater and more correct.

I think you can see how the harness comes thru and which hole took a
rubber plug.

To get the harness thru that grommet I made a collar out of a piece of
plastic milk bottle and formed it into a sort of funnel to squeeze the
wires thru whilst protecting them from the sheet metal.

Geo

On 8/4/08, AA00727 at aol.com <AA00727 at aol.com> wrote:
>
>  I need help with my TR 3 restoration! We are at the point of  installing the
> new wiring harness and don't have any good guidance on where the  different
> parts of the harness pass through the firewall,

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Volt Reg.JPG]

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Mon Aug  4 15:25:51 2008
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 17:25:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W32FD06F17D8BB0A2C7FEE1E5780@phx.gbl>
References: <d4b.35ea37ee.35c720ff@aol.com>
	<BAY110-W32FD06F17D8BB0A2C7FEE1E5780@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <489773DF.5030400@frontiernet.net>

He still can't. Airplanes fly. Men just ride in them.

George Richardson



tom white wrote:
> They said man couldn't fly too.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Reveal your inner athlete and share it with friends on Windows Live.
> http://revealyourinnerathlete.windowslive.com?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WLY
> IA_whichathlete_us
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as gprtech at frontiernet.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From opposumking at verizon.net  Mon Aug  4 18:13:34 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 20:13:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Falken Tires
References: <000501c8f5b1$86589d30$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <002b01c8f690$1a5068e0$2f01a8c0@CPQ12949640186>

> Does anybody have any experience with Falken tires....specifically Falken
> Ziex ZE-912? Grass Roots Motorsports did a review on budget performance
> tires and they tied at #1 with Bridgestone Potenza.

I'm running a set right now on one of my cars.  They replaced the earlier 
Ziex series.  A good tire.  A very good tire when you consider the cost. 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Aug  4 18:13:36 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 20:13:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill
In-Reply-To: <000301c8f5d7$d449a8b0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
References: <000301c8f5d7$d449a8b0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <200808042013.36774.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 03 August 2008 10:14 pm, Bill Beecher wrote:
> Hello List,
>
> Just unboxed my new grill to find it is perfectly flat.  The old grill is
> sort of concave and fits the opening in the apron just fine.
>
> It the correct TR3A grill supposed to be flat or is this just the way it
> ships and you shape it to fit the opening?   Or, has my front apron been so
> re-worked that the opening is 2" shorter than it should be?
>
> Thx,
>
> Bill B
Bill,

Both my grill and apron are after market items from TRF. I bought the apron in 
about 1980 and a few years later got the grill.

The grill had to be "adjusted" to fit the opening by bending it to a sort of 
concave (to the inside). Left and right was the perfect length.

Most grills I have seen tend to be the same but the degree of concave varies.

Take your time and bend carefully.

But are you sure about the 2"? The new grill is 2" larger than the apron 
opening? Sounds a bit too much. I just measured my grill as installed from 
the crank hole vertical and I get 7 13/16 inches from lower grill lip to top 
lip.

Bob

From vlm at te-motorworks.com  Mon Aug  4 20:00:24 2008
From: vlm at te-motorworks.com (Vin Marshall)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 22:00:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] cross country trip
Message-ID: <33090B77-0919-4FC3-95F9-ED9D4A2D4F70@te-motorworks.com>

List,

It looks as if I'll be driving my TR3 from my sometimes home in  
Philadelphia to my sometimes home in the SF Bay Area.   I'll be  
taking a northernly route to hit Glacier National Park and then  
running down the west coast from Seattle.  Or at least that's the  
current plan.  If anyone on the list can suggest an interesting  
waypoint, wants to meet up for a cup of coffee somewhere along the  
way, or so forth, please drop me a line.

I'll probably be posting pictures along the way somewhere.  I'll  
email a URL to the list  again closer to the intended departure of  
August 11th.

-vin

--
New TE Shirts at http://telabs.spreadshirt.com

TE Motorworks, Inc.
Post Industrial Laboratory
215-426-1447

From ebartle at hbci.com  Mon Aug  4 21:18:37 2008
From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 22:18:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Differential Problem?
Message-ID: <000a01c8f6a9$f64322c0$e2c96840$@com>

I am having a problem with my newly redone TR3A.  It has been a problem
going into reverse. When I first shift into  reverse it is stuck, and then
lets loose.

I jacked it up today and discovered that the rear wheels when one is rotated
by hand the opposite wheel goes in the opposite direction. It appears that
when I shift from a forward gear to reverse that one of the wheels stays in
forward until it is "unlocked"

 

Have you ever encountered this?

 

Eric

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  4 21:35:25 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 20:35:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] reinstalling tr-6 engine
Message-ID: <396575.4599.qm@web59608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I installed my engine with the help of son.  we simply used a rented engine
hoist.  went in very slick without need of oberg lift thing.  Son just got on
the back side pushing down on the overdrive to get enough tilt and rolled the
hoist forward and it went in well.  the hydraulic lever to lower was so
sensitive it was easy to lower very slowly.
I had been having trouble with
throw out bearings.  so i attached the transmission (with new clutch and Gunst
throw out system) to engine before installing.  I wanted to be sure i got the
tranny and engine lined up perfectly with dowels in place and everything
completed out where i could see it well.  (of course i'm a newbie and its
british soo i ended up pulling the tranny out anyway a couple weeks later but
thats another story.LOL)
gary nafziger

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug  4 22:21:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 21:21:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Differential Problem?
In-Reply-To: <000a01c8f6a9$f64322c0$e2c96840$@com>
Message-ID: <20080805042150.PITY14026.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I jacked it up today and discovered that the rear wheels when 
> one is rotated by hand the opposite wheel goes in the 
> opposite direction.

That's actually quite normal for a standard differential.  The wheels only
go in the same direction for certain types of "limited slip" differentials.

> It appears that when I shift from a 
> forward gear to reverse that one of the wheels stays in 
> forward until it is "unlocked"

Might possibly be a brake shoe hanging up somehow, but my guess would be
it's a transmission problem.  Are you certain the shift interlock (pin and
two balls in the shift cover) was assembled properly?

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Aug  4 22:29:47 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 04:29:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] cross country trip
Message-ID: <080520080429.16515.4897D73B000B7E8F0000408322155670749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

Planning on I94 through the Twin Cities?  Minnesota Triumphs would be glad to hear from you.  I'll send all my phone numbers to you via private Email.
--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier


-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Vin Marshall <vlm at te-motorworks.com>
> List,
> 
> It looks as if I'll be driving my TR3 from my sometimes home in  
> Philadelphia to my sometimes home in the SF Bay Area.   I'll be  
> taking a northernly route to hit Glacier National Park and then  
> running down the west coast from Seattle.  

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Aug  4 23:21:04 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 23:21:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two. ( actually two parts H,
 one part  O... now I'm thirsty)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21094.1217867635.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21094.1217867635.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <59229411-09A1-4F7D-8101-20F38A8B2CCB@telus.net>

Well, he still can't without various contrivances... The last one  
that used the blessed H2 went snap crackle smoke....

Yup, man can't fly... unless he is taken for a ride...

and some can't see the spam for the mayo... hmm , time for lunch!


On 4-Aug-08, at 10:33 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
> From: tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
> Date: August 4, 2008 7:37:33 AM MDT (CA)
> To: <zinkz10c at aol.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two.
>
>
> They said man couldn't fly too.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Aug  5 06:19:18 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 12:19:18 +0000
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two. ( actually two parts H,
 one  part  O... now I'm thirsty)
Message-ID: <080520081219.25122.489845460001A93C0000622222155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: dkspence at telus.net
> Well, he still can't without various contrivances... The last one  
> that used the blessed H2 went snap crackle smoke....

That was caused by dope, not hydrogen.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From trglory at comcast.net  Tue Aug  5 06:57:00 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 08:57:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill
In-Reply-To: <000301c8f5d7$d449a8b0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
References: <000301c8f5d7$d449a8b0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <006f01c8f6fa$c0dd3ac0$4297b040$@net>

Bill;

My grill installs flat & I finally got a chance to take some measurements.
The opening in the apron is a hair under 8 inches at the center and about 43
inches wide at the widest point.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bill Beecher
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 10:14 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill

Hello List,
 
Just unboxed my new grill to find it is perfectly flat.  The old grill is
sort of concave and fits the opening in the apron just fine.  
 
It the correct TR3A grill supposed to be flat or is this just the way it
ships and you shape it to fit the opening?   Or, has my front apron been so
re-worked that the opening is 2" shorter than it should be?
 
Thx,
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
_______________________________________________

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue Aug  5 09:36:26 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 09:36:26 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two. ( actually two parts H,
 one  part  O... now I'm thirsty)
In-Reply-To: <080520081219.25122.489845460001A93C0000622222155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <080520081219.25122.489845460001A93C0000622222155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D9A36FC1-E226-4E8D-99A8-B346B27D10BF@telus.net>

But the H2 "sure blowed up real good"


On 5-Aug-08, at 6:19 AM, pethier at comcast.net wrote:

>
> From: dkspence at telus.net
>> Well, he still can't without various contrivances... The last one
>> that used the blessed H2 went snap crackle smoke....
>
> That was caused by dope, not hydrogen.
>
> --
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban,  
> 1994 Miata C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/  
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug  5 09:51:56 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 08:51:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two. ( actually two parts H,
 one  part  O... now I'm thirsty)
In-Reply-To: <59229411-09A1-4F7D-8101-20F38A8B2CCB@telus.net>
References: <mailman.21094.1217867635.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<59229411-09A1-4F7D-8101-20F38A8B2CCB@telus.net>
Message-ID: <A38CA5D3A1F54F3F9F667A0AB0880F9E@jdnet.deere.com>

> Well, he still can't without various contrivances...

At least not very long...

Randall

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Tue Aug  5 11:21:45 2008
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 13:21:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR Hotels
In-Reply-To: <COEHIGDHIJHOCPAJBPBIEEFKCOAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>
References: <COEHIGDHIJHOCPAJBPBIEEFKCOAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>
Message-ID: <B3D3BA42-10D3-4F5B-8A72-7D44728F8D41@blakedischer.com>

Ken,

I have an extra  room in Tues out Sat.  I can change it to in Wed, out  
Sat.  ***CALL*** me ASAP if this works for you.  It is at the Marriott  
at $99 per night.  I have to let it go by 6pm tonight.
________________________
Blake J. Discher
313-259-4460




On Aug 4, 2008, at 1:19 PM, Ken Gano palm top wrote:

> Due to a last minute change of plans, it does look like I will be  
> able to
> get to Michigan later this week for VTR.  I started calling today  
> and both
> of the hotels are full for Wednesday night (the backup could get me in
> Thursday and Friday, but at a premium rate).
>
> Is there anyone who has reservations that is not going to be able to  
> make
> it?  I would very much like to pickup your unused reservation (I would
> prefer the backup hotel, but will take either.)
>
> In advanced, thanks.
>
> Ken Gano

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Aug  5 12:25:06 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 18:25:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two. ( actually two parts H,
 one  part  O... now I'm thirsty)
Message-ID: <080520081825.14784.48989B020000D3E9000039C022165548869D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Don Spence <dkspence at telus.net>
> But the H2 "sure blowed up real good"

1.  Not really ,and 
2.  It didn't really matter.

The H2 didn't really explode. The flames were the dope on the fabric and the engine fuel burning,  The H2 burned off colorlessly while it was escaping skyward.  It could neither continue to support the airship nor burn passengers.

If  the airship had been supported by helium, the results would have been largely the same.  The fabric would have burnt, fuel would have caught fire, gas would have been lost, the airship would have crashed, people would have been damaged.
--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Aug  5 15:00:17 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 17:00:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Steering idea
Message-ID: <00e201c8f73e$44d34a70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List, I am getting help from Randall on my steering wheel.  I've ruled out
splicing wires that go inside the stator tube.

Could somebody like Joe Alexander possibly make some sort of
'collapsable-on-impact' steering union for TR3's?  I've heard of people
referring to these car's as some sort of 'spear-of-death' in head-on
collisions resulting in severe steering shaft stomach disorientation.  Seems
like other car's of this era had some sort of rubber steering u-joints for
this purpose?

Just an idea....

thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 820 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
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From auprichard at comcast.net  Tue Aug  5 15:25:55 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 17:25:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Steering idea
In-Reply-To: <00e201c8f73e$44d34a70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <00e201c8f73e$44d34a70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <270C5D9B04B440FAB1AA3A13B9143ED8@DCH6RFC1>

  A simpler solution might be to do what I did and get a rollbar with
harness seat-belts.  

Andrew Uprichard

PS As a doctor, I'd love to know what a "stomach disorientation is":
Stomach flutters - sensory input from the abdomen at speeds of > 75 mph
Stomach sinks - one gets pulled over (again) by the local cops
Stomach empties -  seeing Pimp-my-TR4 on eBay



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
dorpaul
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 5:00 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Steering idea

List, I am getting help from Randall on my steering wheel.  I've ruled out
splicing wires that go inside the stator tube.

Could somebody like Joe Alexander possibly make some sort of
'collapsable-on-impact' steering union for TR3's?  I've heard of people
referring to these car's as some sort of 'spear-of-death' in head-on
collisions resulting in severe steering shaft stomach disorientation.  Seems
like other car's of this era had some sort of rubber steering u-joints for
this purpose?

Just an idea....

thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 820 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
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From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Aug  5 16:11:01 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 18:11:01 EDT
Subject: [TR] Steering idea
Message-ID: <cfe.394457f4.35ca29f5@aol.com>

Paul,
However morbid it is, I am a realist.  A head on collision in a TR3A  is 
likely to result in the steering column being the least of my worries.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug  5 16:26:36 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 15:26:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Steering idea
In-Reply-To: <00e201c8f73e$44d34a70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <00e201c8f73e$44d34a70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <BF8C76B71A684D93954FD39CCEB6D45E@jdnet.deere.com>

> Could somebody like Joe Alexander possibly make some sort of
> 'collapsable-on-impact' steering union for TR3's?

Warning : this is kind of explicit.  If you are squeamish or think you are
going to live forever, perhaps you'd best not read it.

Honestly, Paul, I don't believe it would do anything to improve the driver's
safety in a crash.  The front end of the column is quite effectively
protected by the frame, which is by far the most solid component of the
whole car.  A crash severe enough to push the column back into your
chest/stomach is also going to fold the car in half right through the
passenger compartment.  Plus, the frame/column are down so low to the ground
that they are unlikely to be what stops the car, unless you manage to go
head-first into a retaining wall or something.

You'd get far more benefit, IMO, from a 6 or 8-point roll cage with braces
through the doors.  A really clever person might even be able to keep the
doors functional; but it would still be quite a stretch to call the result a
"TR3".

I've parted out several TR3 wrecks over the years, plus been in a few
myself.  (Most recently, I was the Oreo filling in a 4-car chain collision
that shortened my TR3A by almost 2 feet.)  When the floor comes up and hits
the dash, it doesn't much matter what the steering wheel does.  And even in
the really bad wrecks, I've never seen the control head mashed against the
driver's chest.

Randall

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Aug  5 21:02:59 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 23:02:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Swallow Doretti
Message-ID: <000801c8f770$efacb490$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

There's a Swallow Doretti currently on Ebay. NFI, just thought I'd pass the
word. Wish I had the bucks!

Ed Woods

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Aug  5 22:05:25 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 22:05:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] Swallow Doretti
In-Reply-To: <000801c8f770$efacb490$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <000801c8f770$efacb490$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <002d01c8f779$a8e23680$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Cool car, interesting Tach/Speedo placement. Looks like a TR3 radiator & fan
set-up, I wonder if she overheats like a TR3?

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed
Woods
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 9:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Swallow Doretti

There's a Swallow Doretti currently on Ebay. NFI, just thought I'd pass the
word. Wish I had the bucks!

Ed Woods
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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6:03 AM

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Tue Aug  5 22:37:35 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 21:37:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bonnet Rust
Message-ID: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>

I am cleaning up the bonnet off of my 57 TR3 in preparation for paint.
Patches of rust surround the two copper rivets at the rear of the
bonnet. Rust patches also surround the aluminum inserts for the Dzus
fasteners. Does anyone have advice regarding cleaning and sealing these
areas so that the rust doesn't return? I have stripped and sanded the
bonnet to bare metal and plan to kill any  remaining surface rust with
Ospho before coating with a 2k primer.

Thanks,

Mike

From Roger at rw-architect.com  Tue Aug  5 23:19:22 2008
From: Roger at rw-architect.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 22:19:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder - problem solved!
In-Reply-To: <50FBA5F78CD0425C887AB6B6ED9C90F2@rwa.local>
References: <94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F003B6BA@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local><030B53015F7048EA8D5754452D2FA4B8@rwa.local>
	<50FBA5F78CD0425C887AB6B6ED9C90F2@rwa.local>
Message-ID: <94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F003B74A@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>

Thanks Randall!  - My problem was the slave return spring.

I ordered a new spring along with the new slave cylinder, rod, fork,
taper pin, and hose. I just didn't notice that the spring they sent was
wrong.  It is a thinner gauge and a little smaller. With the lighter
spring the rod adjustment was way off.  It was off enough that the
clutch couldn't disengage. With no pedal resistance it felt like air in
the line. When I pumped the pedal the piston would move far enough to
start to disengage the clutch, just like air in the line.

I re-installed the old spring, which is in fine shape, adjusted the rod
clearance to the piston, and the clutch is working great - no bleeding
was needed.

After some checking, I discovered that what they sent me was the pedal
return spring, not the slave cylinder spring. I changed the pedal spring
out, since the old one was a bit rusty and I had a new one in my hand
that didn't know what to do with.  I checked my packing slip and I did
order the right spring. It was just a mistake.

Thanks again,
Roger Wilson
'60 TR3



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+roger=rw-architect.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+roger=rw-architect.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 5:30 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding Clutch Slave Cylinder

> It is the typical super-soft pedal that hardens up
> with some pumping. Obviously there is still air in there.

Guess it's not so obvious to me ... that is exactly the symptom I got
both
with a broken taper pin; and with a broken spring inside the MC.  Really
bad
slave adjustment combined with a tired or broken slave return spring
could
do it too, I think.


> I was thinking of dropping the slave cylinder down and
> bleeding it with the Mityvac with the slave attached to the
> master. Then I could get good access to the bleeder valve.
> Could that work?

Personally, I have always been able to bleed the TR3's clutch by simply
pumping it up, holding the pedal down for 10-20 seconds, then releasing
the
pedal and waiting for another 10-20 seconds.  Repeat the process 4 or 5
times, then go for a drive.  The returning slave piston should force the
bubbles into the line, which will then rise and work their way out
through
the MC.

Sounds odd, but it works for me.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug  6 05:54:20 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 07:54:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bonnet Rust
In-Reply-To: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <200808060754.20787.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 06 August 2008 12:37 am, Michael Lang wrote:
> I am cleaning up the bonnet off of my 57 TR3 in preparation for paint.
> Patches of rust surround the two copper rivets at the rear of the
> bonnet. Rust patches also surround the aluminum inserts for the Dzus
> fasteners. Does anyone have advice regarding cleaning and sealing these
> areas so that the rust doesn't return? I have stripped and sanded the
> bonnet to bare metal and plan to kill any  remaining surface rust with
> Ospho before coating with a 2k primer.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
Mike,

The best way to remove all rust is to blast with a light abrasive such as 
glass beads. Black Beauty in fine grade will also do the job. The abrasive 
will get the metal very clean and remove all rust, paint etc. Perfect for 
this application.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug  6 06:04:16 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 08:04:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Swallow Doretti
In-Reply-To: <002d01c8f779$a8e23680$6401a8c0@sniffer>
References: <000801c8f770$efacb490$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<002d01c8f779$a8e23680$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <200808060804.17044.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 06 August 2008 12:05 am, wbeech wrote:
> Cool car, interesting Tach/Speedo placement. Looks like a TR3 radiator &
> fan set-up, I wonder if she overheats like a TR3?
>
> Bill B
Bill,

Both my 3 and 4 do not overheat. I just drove the 3 up from PA to home (over 
250 miles) with a traffic jam on 476 north up hill for about 1/2 hour and the 
highest it got was a bit over 70C. Never entering the right most center 
margin. After the jam cleared the temp went down to < 70C for the rest of the 
ride home.

Both the 3 and 4 have the older 4A larger fan, 50-50 antifreeze/ distilled 
water + water wetter.

The 4 always is spot on 70C or a little bit less.

Also both cars have stock radiators and  radiator shrouds + 165F thermostats.

Bob

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug  6 06:51:51 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 08:51:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Swallow Doretti
In-Reply-To: <200808060804.17044.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <002d01c8f779$a8e23680$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <48996627.30775.1218AF0A@localhost>

On 6 Aug 2008 at 8:04, Bob Labuz wrote:

> The 4 always is spot on 70C or a little bit less.
>
> Also both cars have stock radiators and radiator
> shrouds + 165F thermostats.

Someone has led you astray, Bob.  If your thermosat is calibrated for 
Fahrenheit then your radiator couldn't possibly be producing degrees 
Celsius.  Unless of course a PO installed a degree converter, which 
would be a serious originality violation, in my opinion, no matter 
how well hidden.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Aug  6 07:24:49 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 13:24:49 +0000
Subject: [TR] Hydrogen fuel. Part Two. ( actually two parts H,
 one   part O... now I'm thirsty)
In-Reply-To: <A38CA5D3A1F54F3F9F667A0AB0880F9E@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <mailman.21094.1217867635.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<59229411-09A1-4F7D-8101-20F38A8B2CCB@telus.net> 
	<A38CA5D3A1F54F3F9F667A0AB0880F9E@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W34C51B7FD82BB2F8712A58E57A0@phx.gbl>

> > Well, he still can't without various contrivances...
>
> At least not very long...
>
I seem to recall that he could for a long period of time with the ingestion of
the correct chemicals.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
Contest
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From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Aug  6 08:00:14 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 14:00:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] Bonnet Rust
In-Reply-To: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl>

Permatex makes a rust sealer that I have had good luck with.  It comes in a
blue spray can.  Clean as much of the rust off as possible and then spray
several coats over the area.  You can paint the are directly over the sealer.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Your PC, mobile phone, and online services work together like never before.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108587394/direct/01/

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Aug  6 08:46:58 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 09:46:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, coling fan
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl>
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>
	<BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com>

Hello luminous listerati,
	
	I had a gentleman at our counter yesterday ask me I'm unsure of.
	
	Does the cooling fan push or pull through the radiator?  The obvious 
(to me) answer is pull, but his pushes. Is that right?

	He's trying to solve hot fuel issues in his ZS carbs, but if the fan 
is wrong, I think we'd start there.

Thanks,

	Peter C.

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Aug  6 09:04:40 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 11:04:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, coling fan
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com>
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>
	<BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <8CAC5ECE271C187-16F8-9FA@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter C <peter at nosimport.com>

Hello luminous listerati,

    I had a gentleman at our counter yesterday ask me I'm unsure of.

     Does the cooling fan push or pull through the radiator?  The 
obvious
(to me) answer is pull, but his pushes. Is that right?

     He's trying to solve hot fuel issues in his ZS carbs, but if the 
fan
is wrong, I think we'd start there.

==AM==
Peter, a stock TR4 would have a crank-mounted fan that would PULL air 
through the radiator.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Aug  6 09:17:53 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 10:17:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, coling fan
In-Reply-To: <8CAC5ECE271C187-16F8-9FA@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com>
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>
	<BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com>
	<8CAC5ECE271C187-16F8-9FA@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080806101143.03ca1458@nosimport.com>

Thanks to the many knowledgeable respondents. (You really should 
include the list in your replies)

The consensus is that the fan pulls.

  (I know it is obvious that it should, but one of my cars is a 1964 
Mini, and it pushes from the engine. But then, driving a Mini daily 
will cast shadows of doubt on many facets of ones beliefs.... trust me.)

Peter C.
=
At 10:04 AM 8/6/2008, Andrew Mace wrote:
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Peter C <peter at nosimport.com>
>
>Hello luminous listerati,
>
>    I had a gentleman at our counter yesterday ask me I'm unsure of.
>
>     Does the cooling fan push or pull through the radiator?  The obvious
>(to me) answer is pull, but his pushes. Is that right?
>
>     He's trying to solve hot fuel issues in his ZS carbs, but if the fan
>is wrong, I think we'd start there.
>
>==AM==
>Peter, a stock TR4 would have a crank-mounted fan that would PULL 
>air through the radiator.
>
>--Andy  Mace

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Aug  6 09:18:49 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 11:18:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A Steering Wheels & Impact
Message-ID: <c1d.4600f406.35cb1ad9@cs.com>

Thanks for the thoughts, Paul............

Belts can get the job done.  

Personal experience is about a 50MPH impact quartering from passenger side 
front.  The car spun 360 degrees, which likely absorbed a lot of the impact.

Outcome was severe bruising around the belt area for me and my wife. Plus a 
torn fingernail from her hand striking windshield frame.

Staying in the car is usually a big a plus.  Belts are good.

Joe Alexander   </HTML>

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Aug  6 09:36:16 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 09:36:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] Swallow Doretti
In-Reply-To: <200808060804.17044.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <000801c8f770$efacb490$6500a8c0@Edscomputer><002d01c8f779$a8e23680$6401a8c0@sniffer>
	<200808060804.17044.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <000001c8f7da$2b44f5d0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Bob,

I am hoping after the current re-store my heat problems will be over.
Climbing the mountains here (the only way to go anywhere) at 6-7,000ft
always kept the gauge just north of 200, any speed and any gear.  Next year
I will have everything clean and fresh plus the shroud, the oversized alloy
oil pan and a TR4 "Tropical Fan" (courtesy of Fred) 

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Labuz
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 6:04 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Swallow Doretti

On Wednesday 06 August 2008 12:05 am, wbeech wrote:
> Cool car, interesting Tach/Speedo placement. Looks like a TR3 radiator 
> & fan set-up, I wonder if she overheats like a TR3?
>
> Bill B
Bill,

Both my 3 and 4 do not overheat. I just drove the 3 up from PA to home (over
250 miles) with a traffic jam on 476 north up hill for about 1/2 hour and
the highest it got was a bit over 70C. Never entering the right most center
margin. After the jam cleared the temp went down to < 70C for the rest of
the ride home.

Both the 3 and 4 have the older 4A larger fan, 50-50 antifreeze/ distilled
water + water wetter.

The 4 always is spot on 70C or a little bit less.

Also both cars have stock radiators and  radiator shrouds + 165F
thermostats.

Bob
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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8:23 AM

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Aug  6 09:47:25 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 15:47:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, coling fan
Message-ID: <080620081547.5556.4899C78D0005E9C9000015B422155863949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: Peter C <peter at nosimport.com>
> Hello luminous listerati,
> 	
> 	I had a gentleman at our counter yesterday ask me I'm unsure of.
> 	
> 	Does the cooling fan push or pull through the radiator?  The obvious 
> (to me) answer is pull, but his pushes. Is that right?
> 
> 	He's trying to solve hot fuel issues in his ZS carbs, but if the fan 
> is wrong, I think we'd start there.

Regardless of what kind of fan is used or where the fan is located, the air must move through the radiator from front to back.  If the fan is attempting to move the air the other way, the fan is fighting the natural movement of air through the car and you will have cooling troubles.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug  6 10:15:33 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 12:15:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, coling fan
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20080806101143.03ca1458@nosimport.com>
References: <8CAC5ECE271C187-16F8-9FA@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <489995E5.25127.12D32B65@localhost>

On 6 Aug 2008 at 10:17, Peter C wrote:

> The consensus is that the fan pulls.

Not necessarily.  If the fan were in front of the radiator it would 
push.  Did you happen to ask him the position of the radiator with 
respect to the fan, or perhaps the radiator with respect to the 
engine itself?  No TR4 expert I, but as far as I know the factory 
produced very few of them with the engine in front.  His might be 
quite rare.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug  6 10:33:52 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 09:33:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, coling fan
In-Reply-To: <489995E5.25127.12D32B65@localhost>
References: <8CAC5ECE271C187-16F8-9FA@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com>
	<489995E5.25127.12D32B65@localhost>
Message-ID: <852F1FF853B1490FA06229941F49A0B1@jdnet.deere.com>

> His might be quite rare.

Rare indeed!  But I owned an Audi once that had a mechanical fan that blew
through the radiator...

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug  6 10:39:31 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 09:39:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, coling fan
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20080806101143.03ca1458@nosimport.com>
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net><BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl><7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com><8CAC5ECE271C187-16F8-9FA@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080806101143.03ca1458@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <E47D40D7425749C6B891C8F3C3ED10B3@jdnet.deere.com>

> The consensus is that the fan pulls.

Hopefully obvious, but JIC: It's not uncommon for people to fit electric
fans that push.  It might be that your customer has a car that has been so
converted, and doesn't realize it isn't the stock fan.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug  6 10:44:10 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 09:44:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Steering Wheels & Impact
In-Reply-To: <c1d.4600f406.35cb1ad9@cs.com>
References: <c1d.4600f406.35cb1ad9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <64BD7E8815984551A8E7C1F35A8A36A0@jdnet.deere.com>

> Outcome was severe bruising around the belt area for me and my wife. Plus
> a torn fingernail from her hand striking windshield frame.
> 
> Staying in the car is usually a big a plus.  Belts are good.

OTOH, I was hit in the left rear hard enough that my right front pushed the
SUV in front of me into the car in front of him.  No belts, no bruises, no
broken fingernail.  Didn't get an estimate of speed at impact, but less than
a second before, he was doing at least 65 and there were no skid marks.

Randall

From motorcarriage at charter.net  Wed Aug  6 10:58:07 2008
From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 12:58:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Steering Wheels & Impact
References: <c1d.4600f406.35cb1ad9@cs.com>
	<64BD7E8815984551A8E7C1F35A8A36A0@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <5EB94A32182E4FAC8392ACF327F9081B@D9Z8J571>

Hi Randall,
Sounds like divine intervention to me ha? I wouldn't count on the same 
results next time.
Cheers,
Wayne


>> Outcome was severe bruising around the belt area for me and my wife. Plus
>> a torn fingernail from her hand striking windshield frame.
>>
>> Staying in the car is usually a big a plus.  Belts are good.
>
> OTOH, I was hit in the left rear hard enough that my right front pushed 
> the
> SUV in front of me into the car in front of him.  No belts, no bruises, no
> broken fingernail.  Didn't get an estimate of speed at impact, but less 
> than
> a second before, he was doing at least 65 and there were no skid marks.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as motorcarriage at charter.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Aug  6 11:09:59 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 12:09:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, cooling fan
In-Reply-To: <E47D40D7425749C6B891C8F3C3ED10B3@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>
	<BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com>
	<8CAC5ECE271C187-16F8-9FA@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080806101143.03ca1458@nosimport.com>
	<E47D40D7425749C6B891C8F3C3ED10B3@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080806120054.03d23a38@nosimport.com>

At 11:39 AM 8/6/2008, Randall wrote:
> > The consensus is that the fan pulls.
>
>Hopefully obvious, but JIC: It's not uncommon for people to fit electric
>fans that push.  It might be that your customer has a car that has been so
>converted, and doesn't realize it isn't the stock fan.
>
>Randall
==========
  I'm sorry I wasn't clear.
The fan is a 4 bladed fan securely attached to the crankshaft as 
original.... but it, well, blows.
He said he's even re-installed it the other way around, and it 
still... you know...

If he drops a piece of paper into the engine bay between radiator and 
cylinder head, the piece of paper sticks to the engine side of the radiator.

Curiouser and curiouser. I've rounded up a used fan, for comparison 
or installation. I dunno... maybe the engine's running backwards?

That would really... you know...

Peter C 

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Aug  6 11:24:43 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 17:24:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, coling fan
Message-ID: <080620081724.1919.4899DE5B0000EC070000077F22155538949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> > His might be quite rare.
> 
> Rare indeed!  But I owned an Audi once that had a mechanical fan that blew
> through the radiator...

Sure.  Classic Mini Coopers do that, too.  The air comes in the front of the car into the engine bay and filters out through the radiator into the wheelwell.  Therefore the fan, whether electric or mechanical, removes air from the engine bay.

But we knew we were talking about a Triumph, where the air comes in the front of the car, goes through the radiator into the engine bay and dissipates from there.  

If Triumph had not been so cheap, they could have put the air-exhaust vents on all the cars instead of just a few special rally cars.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From motorcarriage at charter.net  Wed Aug  6 11:32:26 2008
From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 13:32:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, cooling fan
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net><BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl><7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com><8CAC5ECE271C187-16F8-9FA@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com><7.0.1.0.2.20080806101143.03ca1458@nosimport.com><E47D40D7425749C6B891C8F3C3ED10B3@jdnet.deere.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080806120054.03d23a38@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <70AC82EF6B69467C80E91D2B21F38923@D9Z8J571>

Of course it can't be running backwards unless he has one of those really 
rare reverse rotation Starter Motors:) Obviously must have the wrong Fan in 
it. Must work like an Air Brake on the Highway.
Cheers,
Wayne Lee
Douglas, MA
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter C" <peter at nosimport.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 help, cooling fan


> At 11:39 AM 8/6/2008, Randall wrote:
>> > The consensus is that the fan pulls.
>>
>>Hopefully obvious, but JIC: It's not uncommon for people to fit electric
>>fans that push.  It might be that your customer has a car that has been so
>>converted, and doesn't realize it isn't the stock fan.
>>
>>Randall
> ==========
>  I'm sorry I wasn't clear.
> The fan is a 4 bladed fan securely attached to the crankshaft as
> original.... but it, well, blows.
> He said he's even re-installed it the other way around, and it
> still... you know...
>
> If he drops a piece of paper into the engine bay between radiator and
> cylinder head, the piece of paper sticks to the engine side of the 
> radiator.
>
> Curiouser and curiouser. I've rounded up a used fan, for comparison
> or installation. I dunno... maybe the engine's running backwards?
>
> That would really... you know...
>
> Peter C

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug  6 11:36:12 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 13:36:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, cooling fan
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20080806120054.03d23a38@nosimport.com>
References: <E47D40D7425749C6B891C8F3C3ED10B3@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <4899A8CC.21907.131D0334@localhost>

On 6 Aug 2008 at 12:09, Peter C wrote:

> The fan is a 4 bladed fan securely attached to the crankshaft as 
> original.... but it, well, blows.

Then either he has a non-original fan with the blades bent the 
opposite way, or his engine is turning the opposite way.  Might the 
car have been intended for the southern hemisphere, for all love?

> He said he's even re-installed it the other way around, and it 
> still... you know...

Of course!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From motorcarriage at charter.net  Wed Aug  6 11:37:00 2008
From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 13:37:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, cooling fan
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net><BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl><7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com><8CAC5ECE271C187-16F8-9FA@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com><7.0.1.0.2.20080806101143.03ca1458@nosimport.com><E47D40D7425749C6B891C8F3C3ED10B3@jdnet.deere.com><7.0.1.0.2.20080806120054.03d23a38@nosimport.com>
	<70AC82EF6B69467C80E91D2B21F38923@D9Z8J571>
Message-ID: <23D3995918B8404F9DBEC56C536E4A52@D9Z8J571>

Plus having 4 Speeds in reverse and 1 forward isn't too handy, which is what 
he'd have if running in reverse.
 So, When you pulled a Fan for comparison, did the Vane pitch go in the same 
direction or Angle?
If so, it pulls like all the rest and he must be on some good medication.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wayne Lee" <motorcarriage at charter.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 help, cooling fan


> Of course it can't be running backwards unless he has one of those really
> rare reverse rotation Starter Motors:) Obviously must have the wrong Fan 
> in
> it. Must work like an Air Brake on the Highway.
> Cheers,
> Wayne Lee
> Douglas, MA
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Peter C" <peter at nosimport.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 1:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 help, cooling fan
>
>
>> At 11:39 AM 8/6/2008, Randall wrote:
>>> > The consensus is that the fan pulls.
>>>
>>>Hopefully obvious, but JIC: It's not uncommon for people to fit electric
>>>fans that push.  It might be that your customer has a car that has been 
>>>so
>>>converted, and doesn't realize it isn't the stock fan.
>>>
>>>Randall
>> ==========
>>  I'm sorry I wasn't clear.
>> The fan is a 4 bladed fan securely attached to the crankshaft as
>> original.... but it, well, blows.
>> He said he's even re-installed it the other way around, and it
>> still... you know...
>>
>> If he drops a piece of paper into the engine bay between radiator and
>> cylinder head, the piece of paper sticks to the engine side of the
>> radiator.
>>
>> Curiouser and curiouser. I've rounded up a used fan, for comparison
>> or installation. I dunno... maybe the engine's running backwards?
>>
>> That would really... you know...
>>
>> Peter C

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Aug  6 11:42:27 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 12:42:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, cooling fan
In-Reply-To: <23D3995918B8404F9DBEC56C536E4A52@D9Z8J571>
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>
	<BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com>
	<8CAC5ECE271C187-16F8-9FA@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080806101143.03ca1458@nosimport.com>
	<E47D40D7425749C6B891C8F3C3ED10B3@jdnet.deere.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080806120054.03d23a38@nosimport.com>
	<70AC82EF6B69467C80E91D2B21F38923@D9Z8J571>
	<23D3995918B8404F9DBEC56C536E4A52@D9Z8J571>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080806124119.03cc9dd0@nosimport.com>

I didn't have one on the shelf, but one is in transit. I'll see it in 
a few days.

The medication, however, may be the root problem.

Peter
==
At 12:37 PM 8/6/2008, Wayne Lee wrote:
>Plus having 4 Speeds in reverse and 1 forward isn't too handy, which is what
>he'd have if running in reverse.
>  So, When you pulled a Fan for comparison, did the Vane pitch go in the same
>direction or Angle?
>If so, it pulls like all the rest and he must be on some good medication.
>Cheers,
>Wayne
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Wayne Lee" <motorcarriage at charter.net>
>To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 1:32 PM
>Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 help, cooling fan
>
>
> > Of course it can't be running backwards unless he has one of those really
> > rare reverse rotation Starter Motors:) Obviously must have the wrong Fan
> > in
> > it. Must work like an Air Brake on the Highway.
> > Cheers,
> > Wayne Lee
> > Douglas, MA
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Peter C" <peter at nosimport.com>
> > To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 1:09 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 help, cooling fan
> >
> >
> >> At 11:39 AM 8/6/2008, Randall wrote:
> >>> > The consensus is that the fan pulls.
> >>>
> >>>Hopefully obvious, but JIC: It's not uncommon for people to fit electric
> >>>fans that push.  It might be that your customer has a car that has been
> >>>so
> >>>converted, and doesn't realize it isn't the stock fan.
> >>>
> >>>Randall
> >> ==========
> >>  I'm sorry I wasn't clear.
> >> The fan is a 4 bladed fan securely attached to the crankshaft as
> >> original.... but it, well, blows.
> >> He said he's even re-installed it the other way around, and it
> >> still... you know...
> >>
> >> If he drops a piece of paper into the engine bay between radiator and
> >> cylinder head, the piece of paper sticks to the engine side of the
> >> radiator.
> >>
> >> Curiouser and curiouser. I've rounded up a used fan, for comparison
> >> or installation. I dunno... maybe the engine's running backwards?
> >>
> >> That would really... you know...
> >>
> >> Peter C
>_______________________________________________

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  6 13:15:08 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 12:15:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 forward rear leaf spring bolt
Message-ID: <937932.89553.qm@web59608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I keep reading various opinions about the forward bolt which attaches the rear
leaf springs to the frame of a tr-3.  These are pressure fitted and usually
rust fast to the frame.  Suggestions are that these should be removed from the
frame when the body is off as its nearly impossible to do with body on.  Then
its suggested to replace with a stainless steel replacement which is less
likely to rust fast makng it easier to remove springs and rear axle later
after the body is on.
My question is:  with a tr-3 body on
the frame.................are the rear springs removed by pulling the bolt out
of the inside of the frame therefore out of the forward spring eye?  OR can
the spring eye be pulled off the bolt toward the outside of the car therefore
leaving the bolt in the frame?
I'm ready to attach the springs now and
considering whether to remove these frame bolts and replace with stainless
well oiled ones or let it go and attach as is.  Anyone had experience with
this? 
thanks!
gary nafziger

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Aug  6 13:32:45 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 15:32:45 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr-3 forward rear leaf spring bolt
Message-ID: <bfc.3f73bb4b.35cb565d@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/6/2008 12:15:57 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:

I keep  reading various opinions about the forward bolt which attaches the  
rear
leaf springs to the frame of a tr-3.  These are pressure fitted  and usually
rust fast to the frame.  Suggestions are that these should  be removed from 
the
frame when the body is off as its nearly impossible to  do with body on.  Then
its suggested to replace with a stainless steel  replacement which is less
likely to rust fast makng it easier to remove  springs and rear axle later
after the body is on.
My question is:   with a tr-3 body on
the frame.................are the rear springs removed  by pulling the bolt 
out
of the inside of the frame therefore out of the  forward spring eye?  OR can
the spring eye be pulled off the bolt  toward the outside of the car therefore
leaving the bolt in the  frame?
I'm ready to attach the springs now and
considering whether to  remove these frame bolts and replace with stainless
well oiled ones or let  it go and attach as is.  Anyone had experience with
this?  
thanks!
gary nafziger



Gary, I did this years ago. You have to take that miserable bolt out. If  the 
body is on the car, I would remove the little slipper shaped piece of trim  
which goes with the gravel shield. I would then drill a hole large enough to  
accommodate a long flat ended punch-the larger the better. Seemslike I ended up 
 also drilliing a hole through a large board and put pillows betweenthe board 
and  the car in case I missed when I beat on the punch. Iprobably used my 
cutdown  s;edge hammer.
 A small diameter punch will expand the end of the bolt. 
 
I spent weeks trying other things first, so if I was to do it again, I  would 
go straight for this. If you do it neatly, you can put a plug button in  the 
hole (plastic?) under the replaced slipper looking piece.
 
Good Luck,
Mike Moore



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From steven at newellboys.net  Wed Aug  6 15:18:35 2008
From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 15:18:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, coling fan
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com>
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>
	<BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <489A152B.10203@newellboys.net>

Peter C wrote:

>Hello luminous listerati, I had a gentleman at our counter yesterday ask me I'm unsure of. Does the cooling fan push or pull through the radiator?  The obvious (to me) answer is pull, but his pushes. Is that right? He's trying to solve hot fuel issues in his ZS carbs, but if the fan is wrong, I think we'd start there.
>
Ah. The stock, nearly flat, 4-blade fan NEITHER pushes nor pulls through 
the radiator. Some might say it sucks, but rather it gently wafts air 
around the engine compartment, and as an added benefit blows oil leaking 
from the front main seal back across the engine block to provide even 
rust proofing.

Steven Newell
Littleton, CO USA
1 Triumph, 3 BMWs: when a BMW leaks, there's a problem.

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Aug  6 15:39:12 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 14:39:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 help, coling fan
In-Reply-To: <489A152B.10203@newellboys.net>
References: <48992A8F.4020102@comcast.net>
	<BAY110-W16E8DD612CF89B3347007AE57A0@phx.gbl>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080806094209.03a0ea70@nosimport.com>
	<489A152B.10203@newellboys.net>
Message-ID: <p06240801c4bfca5363fc@[98.224.22.215]>

Ahhh ... your talking about the "cooling" fan ... ;-)
>Peter C wrote:
>
>>Hello luminous listerati, I had a gentleman at our counter 
>>yesterday ask me I'm unsure of. Does the cooling fan push or pull 
>>through the radiator?  The obvious (to me) answer is pull, but his 
>>pushes. Is that right? He's trying to solve hot fuel issues in his 
>>ZS carbs, but if the fan is wrong, I think we'd start there.
>>
>Ah. The stock, nearly flat, 4-blade fan NEITHER pushes nor pulls through
>the radiator. Some might say it sucks, but rather it gently wafts air
>around the engine compartment, and as an added benefit blows oil leaking
>from the front main seal back across the engine block to provide even
>rust proofing.
>
>Steven Newell
>Littleton, CO USA
>1 Triumph, 3 BMWs: when a BMW leaks, there's a problem.

-- 
Bill Pugh
anabil007@ comcast.net
Wallace,  CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug  6 16:19:30 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 15:19:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr-3 forward rear leaf spring bolt
In-Reply-To: <937932.89553.qm@web59608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <937932.89553.qm@web59608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <95244D8FAD7D426791E1ABAC487EBC8A@jdnet.deere.com>

> My question is:  with a tr-3 body on
> the frame.................are the rear springs removed by pulling the bolt
> out of the inside of the frame therefore out of the forward spring eye?  

Yup.

> OR can the spring eye be pulled off the bolt toward the outside of the car
> therefore
> leaving the bolt in the frame?

Nope, not with the body in the way.

> I'm ready to attach the springs now and
> considering whether to remove these frame bolts and replace with stainless
> well oiled ones or let it go and attach as is.  Anyone had experience with
> this?

I pulled mine out using the factory method (the "bolts" are threaded for a
puller) many years ago.  If I were doing it again today, I'd probably make a
little more sophisticated puller, but otherwise I'd tackle it the same way.

And I wouldn't bother with stainless (which is far overrated in my opinion,
as in many cases it binds even worse than carbon steel does) replacements.
Just coat the originals (assuming they weren't damaged in the removal
process) well with anti-seize and put them back.  (I like the copper-based
AS, it seems to work significantly better for me than the cheaper
silver-colored stuff.)

One point that might be overlooked: the "bolts" have "D" shaped heads (no
flats  for a wrench) and there is a finger that sticks up from the frame to
engage the flat portion.  So don't try to twist them.

Randall

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Aug  6 17:30:09 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 19:30:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Update - BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 & 7, 2008
Message-ID: <2114617.1218065409137.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

NEW WEBSITE:
        www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html

LODGING ALTERNATIVES

Dear British Motorhead,

We have checked out the lodging situation in the Brisbane area for people who
live far enough away to stay overnight for a night or two for a more relaxed
weekend. Carole Burton, the official British meet travel agent, got us a DEAL
at the Radisson Hotel, right in the Brisbane Marina!

The Radisson is a very upscale, business type hotel with gourmet restaurant.
We have special British Car Meet rate of $109 per day, Friday, Saturday or
Sunday. Address, 5000 Sierra Point Parkway, Brisbane, Phone 415-467-4400.
Ask for the British Car Meet rates.

More local North Bay lodging on our website:
             www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html


Best,

Rick Feibusch
310-392-6605
Meet Coordinator
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

NEW WEBSITE:
         www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html


THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET * 2008
The Weekend Of Saturday & Sunday * Sept. 6th & 7th

Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the Brisbane Marina at
Sierra Point. Over 300 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once
again gather in the Bay Area for our 31st Annual British Car Meet. Don't have
a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods and
works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. This is
essentially the old Palo Alto British Meet in a new location. We are also
expecting another great display of automotive oddities provided by the
Arcane Auto Society. Spectators attend and park for free.

SUNDAY SHOW - BRISBANE MARINA - SEPTEMBER 7th

Cars will be placed at 9:00AM and the fun goes on all day. The food will be
handled by the Brisbane Lions Club and the Sierra Point Yacht Club will open
their doors on Sunday for a reasonable, sit-down breakfast  Herb Gibson's
Jazz Orchestra will be back again, set up just outside the Yacht Club. There
is no preregistration. There will be marque awards in over 15 classes and all
entrants will receive a commemorative gift. The registration fee is $25 per
car at the gate.

SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 6th

The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at the Brisbane Marina boathouse
(the same place as the Sunday Car Show) and winds through the hills to the
sea. Itbs no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as
show them. We will be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:30AM.  A detailed
map will be provided. The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we
will be kicking tyres and telling tall tales in the car park well into the
afternoon.

DIRECTIONS:

The Brisbane Marina is lacated just east of the Bayshore Freeway
(101) between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just
take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the
Marina. Trailer parking will be available on-site.

Call for information:  310-392-6605
e-mail: Brisbane Marina 2008 <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>
Website:
http://www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html

From L1J1S at aol.com  Wed Aug  6 18:16:36 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 20:16:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3-a  elec.and mechanical pump
Message-ID: <d30.37abd63c.35cb98e4@aol.com>

hello, i want to install a electric fuel pump in my tr3-a. also want to  
retain the factory look  by keeping the ac mechanical pump in place.  the question 
is can i hook up the electric pump in front of the mechanical and  have the 
electric pump the gas into the mechanical pump? or should i just block  off the 
incoming and out going hose from the mechanical pump and have the  electric 
pump acting alone? regards,  larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a  supercharged



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From tr6parts at charter.net  Wed Aug  6 18:42:20 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 20:42:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Panasport Wheels
Message-ID: <008101c8f826$73368e20$d44a9e18@alan>

Does anyone know the backspacing on the 16 inch Panasports for the TR6?

Is it 3 1/2 or 4 inches.

Thanks

Al

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Wed Aug  6 20:14:23 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 22:14:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan
Message-ID: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com>

Let's see a photo of this fan..
is it the earlier blade like spatulas or the later one with ribbed rectangles?
As far as reversibility, not that it makes a big difference, but it at seems
I've seen at car shows about 10% of 1960's Triumph TRs and 1960's MGBs have
their fans on backwards!..For some reason people don't quite understand the
airflow dynamic... blade still works, but works better facing forward..
Carl
ps; I would think the earlier fans make more turbulence than draw, especially
at idle .. could be why your paper sticks to back of radiator.. rev it up and
see where it goes from there!

If he drops a piece of paper into the engine bay between radiator and
cylinder head, the piece of paper sticks to the engine side of the radiator.

Curiouser and curiouser. I've rounded up a used fan, for comparison
or installation. I dunno... maybe the engine's running backwards?

That would really... you know...
**************
Looking for a car that's
sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.

(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017
 )

From AA00727 at aol.com  Wed Aug  6 23:36:22 2008
From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 01:36:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Wiring
Message-ID: <cb3.3aa6bf31.35cbe3d6@aol.com>

Thanks to all who sent information on the locations of the wiring  holes in 
the firewall!
 If someone has a TR-3 with original wiring and plumbing under the  dash I 
would sure love some photos of that area. The restoration books I have  don't 
show that area and I'd like to route the wiring and various hoses as close  to 
the factory locations as possible.
 Gary
 _aa00727 at aol.com_ (mailto:aa00727 at aol.com) 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug  7 08:33:55 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 14:33:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] tr-3 forward rear leaf spring bolt
In-Reply-To: <937932.89553.qm@web59608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <937932.89553.qm@web59608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W463D52E5C795A5A7BE6D98E5750@phx.gbl>

The springs are easy to remove and install with the forward pivot bolt rusted
in place.  All you have to do is remove the rear fender first.

I removed the rusted in front pivot bolts from my TR3A by heating the bolt
until I heard a load "Pop".  After the pop the bolt came out using the bolt I
had screwed into the head of the bold.  There is a threaded hole in the head
of the bolt to receive the extraction bolt.

When I replaced the pivot bolts I coated them with anti-sieze.

Best regards,
Tom

> Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 12:15:08 -0700
> From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] tr-3 forward rear leaf spring bolt
>
> I keep reading various opinions about the forward bolt which attaches the
rear
> leaf springs to the frame of a tr-3.  These are pressure fitted and usually
> rust fast to the frame.  Suggestions are that these should be removed from
the
> frame when the body is off as its nearly impossible to do with body on.
Then
> its suggested to replace with a stainless steel replacement which is less
> likely to rust fast makng it easier to remove springs and rear axle later
> after the body is on.
> My question is:  with a tr-3 body on
> the frame.................are the rear springs removed by pulling the bolt
out
> of the inside of the frame therefore out of the forward spring eye?  OR can
> the spring eye be pulled off the bolt toward the outside of the car
therefore
> leaving the bolt in the frame?
> I'm ready to attach the springs now and
> considering whether to remove these frame bolts and replace with stainless
> well oiled ones or let it go and attach as is.  Anyone had experience with
> this?
> thanks!
> gary nafziger
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Get Windows Live and get whatever you need, wherever you are.  Start here.
http://www.windowslive.com/default.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Home_082008

From peter at nosimport.com  Thu Aug  7 08:54:15 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 09:54:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
In-Reply-To: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com>
References: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080807094805.02b2bf68@nosimport.com>

Ah customers... he lied... he never DID try to install the fan the 
other way around, as I had explicitly asked.

Makes me look stupid.  Anyway, turning the blade over has gotten the 
airflow in the right direction.

I should really do this stuff myself, rather than trust that someone else has.

So, we'll have a used fan blade here in a day or two.

He may still have hot fuel issues, but I'm less inclined to help at 
the moment. Maybe later.

If anyone has any sure fire remedies for hot fuel cavitation issues, 
let me know.  Details, rerouted fuel lines, ZS carbs, electric fuel 
pump, though he's tried others.

Thanks for your comments, I'm so embarrassed.

Peter C.
=============
At 09:14 PM 8/6/2008, CarlSereda at aol.com wrote:
>Let's see a photo of this fan..
>is it the earlier blade like spatulas or the later one with ribbed rectangles?
>As far as reversibility, not that it makes a big difference, but it at seems
>I've seen at car shows about 10% of 1960's Triumph TRs and 1960's MGBs have
>their fans on backwards!..For some reason people don't quite understand the
>airflow dynamic... blade still works, but works better facing forward..
>Carl
>ps; I would think the earlier fans make more turbulence than draw, especially
>at idle .. could be why your paper sticks to back of radiator.. rev it up and
>see where it goes from there!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug  7 09:13:46 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 08:13:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20080807094805.02b2bf68@nosimport.com>
References: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080807094805.02b2bf68@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>

> Makes me look stupid.  Anyway, turning the blade over has gotten the
> airflow in the right direction.

Don't mean to add insult to injury, Peter, but turning the blade over would
make no difference at all to airflow direction; just like a nut turns the
same way no matter which side goes on the bolt first.

Randall

From motorcarriage at charter.net  Thu Aug  7 09:31:16 2008
From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 11:31:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
References: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com><7.0.1.0.2.20080807094805.02b2bf68@nosimport.com>
	<D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <CBAA70657D814C979F2B04FE7AF5AF61@D9Z8J571>

Glad You had the heart to tell him, I didn't want to get everyone running to 
their Electric Cooling Fans in the office scratching their heads.
Wayne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Peter C'" <peter at nosimport.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion


>> Makes me look stupid.  Anyway, turning the blade over has gotten the
>> airflow in the right direction.
>
> Don't mean to add insult to injury, Peter, but turning the blade over 
> would
> make no difference at all to airflow direction; just like a nut turns the
> same way no matter which side goes on the bolt first.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as motorcarriage at charter.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Aug  7 10:05:01 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 11:05:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
References: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com><7.0.1.0.2.20080807094805.02b2bf68@nosimport.com><D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
	<CBAA70657D814C979F2B04FE7AF5AF61@D9Z8J571>
Message-ID: <759E80845215487686CF079A5B942BC8@KARL>

> Glad You had the heart to tell him, I didn't want to get everyone running 
> to
> their Electric Cooling Fans in the office scratching their heads.

That might result in some slivers 

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Thu Aug  7 10:20:43 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 12:20:43 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr-3 forward rear leaf spring bolt
Message-ID: <c6b.3a00c00f.35cc7adb@aol.com>

Gary
The bolt is not pressure fitted, but they can still be tough to remove with 
the body on.
To get mine out I made a clamping device out of 2 small (+/- 9") pieces of 
structural steel channel 4 bolts and a spacer made a clamping device. If you 
live in southern California I have it some place. or I can draw up a diagram and 
forward it to you.
Frank Fisher
Temecula Ca



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Aug  7 12:24:04 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 14:24:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
In-Reply-To: <D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com><7.0.1.0.2.20080807094805.02b2bf68@nosimport.com>
	<D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <000901c8f8ba$c8b575c0$210110ac@bobspc>

Randall,
Just curious but if flipping the blade over has no impact, why does Hayden
have you flip the blade and swap the wires around to turn a pusher into a
puller? I know that swapping the wires changes the rotation of the fan motor
but there must also be something in the fan blade construction that makes it
more effective?  I learned the "hard" way when I went to change the fan from
puller to pusher and just flipped the blades over as the direction said to
do. The part about changing the wiring around was in a completely different
section of the instructions. As you said, just flipping the blades had no
impact of pusher vs. puller.  


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 11:14 AM
To: 'Peter C'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion

> Makes me look stupid.  Anyway, turning the blade over has gotten the 
> airflow in the right direction.

Don't mean to add insult to injury, Peter, but turning the blade over would
make no difference at all to airflow direction; just like a nut turns the
same way no matter which side goes on the bolt first.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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No virus found in this incoming message.
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5:54 AM

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Aug  7 12:32:13 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 11:32:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
References: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com><7.0.1.0.2.20080807094805.02b2bf68@nosimport.com><D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
	<000901c8f8ba$c8b575c0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <002e01c8f8bb$e9c90fa0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

I think I can answer that one.

Reversing the wires reverses the direction of the motor and blade.  Flipping
the fan makes it work the way it was designed since the blades are not
designed like a Triumph fan and are not efficient if run in the wrong
direction.

Joe

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>; "'Peter C'" <peter at nosimport.com>;
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion


> Randall,
> Just curious but if flipping the blade over has no impact, why does Hayden
> have you flip the blade and swap the wires around to turn a pusher into a
> puller? I know that swapping the wires changes the rotation of the fan
motor
> but there must also be something in the fan blade construction that makes
it
> more effective?  I learned the "hard" way when I went to change the fan
from
> puller to pusher and just flipped the blades over as the direction said to
> do. The part about changing the wiring around was in a completely
different
> section of the instructions. As you said, just flipping the blades had no
> impact of pusher vs. puller.
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 11:14 AM
> To: 'Peter C'; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
>
> > Makes me look stupid.  Anyway, turning the blade over has gotten the
> > airflow in the right direction.
>
> Don't mean to add insult to injury, Peter, but turning the blade over
would
> make no difference at all to airflow direction; just like a nut turns the
> same way no matter which side goes on the bolt first.
>
> Randall
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.156 / Virus Database: 270.5.12/1597 - Release Date: 8/7/2008
> 5:54 AM
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Thu Aug  7 15:02:08 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 17:02:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] OT: Automotive News - Pininfarina CEO dies in road accident
Message-ID: <a11dceec0808071402m79c3a2e4p9a48c55474350cef@mail.gmail.com>

see http://tinyurl.com/6ds4ro
-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967
1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Aug  7 15:44:45 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 17:44:45 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr-3 forward rear leaf spring bolt
Message-ID: <cd3.3c3adb1e.35ccc6cd@aol.com>

Frank,
How about a picture?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Aug  7 16:42:05 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 15:42:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Wiring
In-Reply-To: <cb3.3aa6bf31.35cbe3d6@aol.com>
References: <cb3.3aa6bf31.35cbe3d6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808071542w2f07c459vc6c408be52ef7205@mail.gmail.com>

Here's a photo of the control box, fuse holder, etc I took of a really
ratty but original pre-60K TR3A.  Those original cars really had the
wires laid out with a military precision.  I tried but couldn't quite
duplicate the neatness of that look.

The correct ground wire is there but nearly hidden by that plastic battery tray.

I realize the attachment will be stripped off for the list, I cc the
list on the message as there were a couple of others also working this
area.  Will gladly email the pic to any who need it (or are just
curious).

Geo

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of kk-loom.JPG]

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Aug  7 16:49:24 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 15:49:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
In-Reply-To: <D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080807094805.02b2bf68@nosimport.com>
	<D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808071549k17e45cb2gbc0c81b493ed701@mail.gmail.com>

Brilliant example!  I've tried to explain this (turning the fan around
does not reverse flow) to people who just couldn't wrap their head
around it.  Next time (and I know there will be a next time) I'll
explain it your way.

As for the Hayden fan, et al -- as Joe notes these are a more modern
design, if you look at the blades you will see they are curved like an
airfoil/airplane wing.  Airplanes of course can fly upside down but
not particulary well.

Geo

On 8/7/08, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>... just like a nut turns the
> same way no matter which side goes on the bolt first.
>
> Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug  7 16:57:00 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 15:57:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
In-Reply-To: <000901c8f8ba$c8b575c0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com><7.0.1.0.2.20080807094805.02b2bf68@nosimport.com>
	<D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
	<000901c8f8ba$c8b575c0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <1AE9338A09C24330A5ABE5E1E2228116@jdnet.deere.com>

> Just curious but if flipping the blade over has no impact, why does Hayden
> have you flip the blade and swap the wires around to turn a pusher into a
> puller?

I only said it wouldn't change the direction, I didn't say it would have no
impact.

As Joe says, the Hayden blades are designed to be more efficient in one
direction.  That's why you are supposed to flip them over to change from a
pusher to a puller.  If you don't flip them as directed, the air flow will
still be in the right direction, just not as much.

And the wires need to be changed because you are turning the motor front to
back.  If you didn't swap them, the motor rotation as viewed from the
driver's seat would change, due to the change in orientation.

Randall

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Aug  7 16:57:43 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 15:57:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3-a elec.and mechanical pump
In-Reply-To: <d30.37abd63c.35cb98e4@aol.com>
References: <d30.37abd63c.35cb98e4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808071557g78a5476bp1ae2d124c09861d2@mail.gmail.com>

I would be wary of routing the gas thru the mechanical pump -- would
work I think but an internal failure there (such as a failed diaphram)
could have you pumping gas into the crankcase.

Perhaps a crafty person could remove the mechanical pump internals and
replace the diaphragm [how do you spell that anyway?] with a sheet
metal blank.  That could be a safe way to retain the stock look,
though I have never tried it nor (to my knowledge) seen it done).

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug  7 16:58:38 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 15:58:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0808071549k17e45cb2gbc0c81b493ed701@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com><7.0.1.0.2.20080807094805.02b2bf68@nosimport.com><D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
	<7bb181af0808071549k17e45cb2gbc0c81b493ed701@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0A3845DF69CF4A3BB1F346067C1E25E4@jdnet.deere.com>

> Brilliant example! 

Thanks, Geo.  Wish I could take credit for it!  But I read it somewhere,
probably on this list some years ago.

Randall

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Aug  7 17:31:55 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 23:31:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] tr3-a elec.and mechanical pump
Message-ID: <080720082331.11724.489B85EB0001DE9300002DCC22155612649C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

When I restored my 3, I tried to go the mechanical route, rebuilding the mechanical pump with a new diaphragm and everyting, then hooking the fuel lines to it.  However, I also was worried that it might fail on the road, so I mounted an electric fuel pump, one of those inexpensive, hardy little rascals (Fawcett???) from E-Bay but available from I think the Big 3, and ran the fuel lines through it.  

Good move.  The mechanical lasted a week.  I flipped the switch and kept driving until eventually I could no longer stand the notion that the fuel pump lever was lunging on the cam, so pulled the mechanical altogether and put on one of the blanking plates that someone on the list sells.  Was it Joe Alexander?  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> 

> I would be wary of routing the gas thru the mechanical pump -- would 
> work I think but an internal failure there (such as a failed diaphram) 
> could have you pumping gas into the crankcase. 
> 
> Perhaps a crafty person could remove the mechanical pump internals and 
> replace the diaphragm [how do you spell that anyway?] with a sheet 
> metal blank. That could be a safe way to retain the stock look, 
> though I have never tried it nor (to my knowledge) seen it done). 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Aug  7 17:35:11 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 23:35:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] tr3-a elec.and mechanical pump
Message-ID: <080720082335.19519.489B86AF000772E900004C3F22155612649C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Oh yeah.  The switch for the electric fuel pump is also an anti-theft device.  When parking in suspect locations, turn it off.  Big surprise after a hotwired car gets a hundred yards down the road and stalls.

Not to say that this would stop a pro, of course.



-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: terryrs at comcast.net 

> When I restored my 3, I tried to go the mechanical route, rebuilding the 
> mechanical pump with a new diaphragm and everyting, then hooking the fuel lines 
> to it. However, I also was worried that it might fail on the road, so I mounted 
> an electric fuel pump, one of those inexpensive, hardy little rascals 
> (Fawcett???) from E-Bay but available from I think the Big 3, and ran the fuel 
> lines through it. 
> 
> Good move. The mechanical lasted a week. I flipped the switch and kept driving 
> until eventually I could no longer stand the notion that the fuel pump lever was 
> lunging on the cam, so pulled the mechanical altogether and put on one of the 
> blanking plates that someone on the list sells. Was it Joe Alexander? 
> 
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A 
> New Hampshire 

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Aug  7 17:47:22 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 19:47:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3-a elec.and mechanical pump
References: <080720082335.19519.489B86AF000772E900004C3F22155612649C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <024601c8f8e7$f08dfc70$f3307247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

> Oh yeah.  The switch for the electric fuel pump is also an anti-theft 
> device.  When parking in suspect locations, turn it off.  Big surprise 
> after a hotwired car gets a hundred yards down the road and stalls.
================================================================================================================
When Dan Masters rewired my T/R 3, he installed ==3== anti-theft cutoffs, I 
have 2 toogle switches way up under the dash completely out of site but very 
reachable for the driver sitting, one turns the pump off completely, the 
other works for about 10seconds then cuts it off, the third is a 100% 
battery curoff 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Aug  7 17:47:24 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 19:47:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3-a elec.and mechanical pump
In-Reply-To: <080720082331.11724.489B85EB0001DE9300002DCC22155612649C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <080720082331.11724.489B85EB0001DE9300002DCC22155612649C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <200808071947.24657.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

> Good move.  The mechanical lasted a week.  I flipped the switch and kept
> driving until eventually I could no longer stand the notion that the fuel
> pump lever was lunging on the cam, so pulled the mechanical altogether and
> put on one of the blanking plates that someone on the list sells.  Was it
> Joe Alexander?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
Terry,

I believe it was Joe.

I posted a query to the list about 3 years ago to see if the blanking plates 
are available and Joe replied that if I send him a pattern he would make me 
one on his CNC machine.

Well I sent him a gasket and he made me the 1st as a prototype. He even sent 
me my gasket back! and all for free!

Well anyway he went and made about 20 or so and sells them on Ebay from time 
to time.

The original prototype was installed on the 4 and I got another for the 3. 
Perfect fit.

Now what I did was mount the pump under the gas tank and mounted a pressure 
regulator right to the outside of the blanking plate. Now the regulator 
replaces the old pump and looks like it original equipment since the fuel 
line routing seems to almost match the original with the pump.

Also a fuel filter between tank and pump and another just before the 
regulator.

Power to the pump is provided by a fused line from the white wire to the coil. 
That way, when I turn on the key that starts the fuel pump and when ignition 
is off so is the pump.

Pumps can be wired for + or - ground as the electrics are not grounded to the 
pump body.

I am on the 2nd season with the electric pump on the 4 and 1st season with the 
3.

So far I am very happy with the electric vs. the older AC pumps.

No leaks, no drips and no errors.

Bob

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Aug  7 17:59:40 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 19:59:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0808071549k17e45cb2gbc0c81b493ed701@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <489B542C.18803.19A27205@localhost>

On 7 Aug 2008 at 15:49, Geo Hahn wrote:

> Brilliant example!

> On 8/7/08, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> >... just like a nut turns the
> > same way no matter which side goes on the bolt first.

Yes, but that's only because the threads in the nut are on the
inside.  If you hold the nut steady and turn the bolt around to
thread it into the nut from the other side, the bolt moves in the
opposite direction.  That's because the bolt's threads are on the
outside.  Some sort of dimensional transformation matrix is what
causes this, I think.

*Now* do you get it????  It isn't rocket science, you know.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
42022'44"N 71013'2"W

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug  7 18:32:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 17:32:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
In-Reply-To: <489B542C.18803.19A27205@localhost>
References: <D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
	<489B542C.18803.19A27205@localhost>
Message-ID: <E6A3D7116A27406A898BD16F2BE09CF5@jdnet.deere.com>

> If you hold the nut steady and turn the bolt around to
> thread it into the nut from the other side, the bolt moves in the
> opposite direction.

Only if you also turn the bolt in the opposite direction (from a fixed frame
of reference).

Randall

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Thu Aug  7 19:18:13 2008
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 21:18:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Wiring
In-Reply-To: <cb3.3aa6bf31.35cbe3d6@aol.com>
References: <cb3.3aa6bf31.35cbe3d6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002701c8f8f4$a179ec90$caaa0018@Scott>

Gary:

I have some pictures and made a drowsing of the routing of my '59 TR3
harness. I'll get to it this weekend to scan you a PDF file and scan
pictures from under the dash. Since I am really busy, feel free to send me a
reminder email.  BTW, I am doing my harness now; just finished the
instrument wiring and need to install the dash.  I have the fuel sending
unit wired and then need to do the front and back along with the engine bay.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of AA00727 at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 1:36 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Wiring

Thanks to all who sent information on the locations of the wiring  holes in 
the firewall!
 If someone has a TR-3 with original wiring and plumbing under the  dash I 
would sure love some photos of that area. The restoration books I have
don't 
show that area and I'd like to route the wiring and various hoses as close
to 
the factory locations as possible.
 Gary
 _aa00727 at aol.com_ (mailto:aa00727 at aol.com) 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000
017 )
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as suhringtr36 at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Thu Aug  7 19:51:23 2008
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 21:51:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] Herald on south jersey craigslist
Message-ID: <ce3.3867ccb0.35cd009b@aol.com>

1967 Triumph Herald convertable runs good - $3400
 
____________________________________
Reply to: _sale-777341757 at craigslist.org_ (m
ailto:sale-777341757 at craigslist.org?subject=1967%20Triumph%20Herald%20convertable%20runs%20good%20-%20$3400) 
Date:  2008-07-31, 10:44AM EDT


1967 Triumph Herald convertable runs good. xtra synchromesh trans and  chrome 
pieces. perfect for restoration, or drive it the way it is. will consider  
trades. 
 
PostingID: 777341757




Anyone interested.
 
NFI



Rodney Ford,  Brick, NJ
TR4A IRS CTC60536L
TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA 400612
President,  Positive Earth Drivers Club




**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Aug  7 20:31:37 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 22:31:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
In-Reply-To: <E6A3D7116A27406A898BD16F2BE09CF5@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <489B542C.18803.19A27205@localhost>
Message-ID: <489B77C9.5228.1A2D8D4A@localhost>

On 7 Aug 2008 at 17:32, Randall wrote:

> Only if you also turn the bolt in the opposite direction (from a fixed frame
> of reference).

If the frame of reference is fixed you wouldn't need to work with the 
bolts at all.  You're only doing all that because something is broken 
and needs fixing.  Especially if they are frame bolts.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Thu Aug  7 21:26:56 2008
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 20:26:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR 2009 - Where?
Message-ID: <003601c8f906$9cbf4580$d63dd080$@rr.com>

Does anyone know where the 2009 combo VTR Challenge & Triumphest will be
held?  I heard whisperings that it was going to be around the San Luis
Obispo area. Anybody got the true skinny?

 

Johnnie

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Aug  7 21:30:45 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 20:30:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR 2009 - Where?
In-Reply-To: <003601c8f906$9cbf4580$d63dd080$@rr.com>
References: <003601c8f906$9cbf4580$d63dd080$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <C32190DDCF7B42DBB26EE6F8FE52F003@newcomputer>

That is also what I understand.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
& Pat Donnelly
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 8:27 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] VTR 2009 - Where?

Does anyone know where the 2009 combo VTR Challenge & Triumphest will be
held?  I heard whisperings that it was going to be around the San Luis
Obispo area. Anybody got the true skinny?

 

Johnnie
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Thu Aug  7 21:45:05 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 23:45:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Speedo How To Guide
Message-ID: <8CAC72047C59D27-1224-1EFF@webmail-de07.sysops.aol.com>

 Hi Everyone,

It is inspection time for my TR6 and I am thinking it probably wont pass since the speedo doesnt work.? I know there was a pdf file of how to repair the speedo and I even downloaded and saved a copy....on the hard drive that failed awhile back.? Can someone kindly forward the link once again so I can possibly repair my speedo so I can get my car inspected? 

Thanks in advance.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Thu Aug  7 22:34:07 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2008 00:34:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Speedo How To Guide
In-Reply-To: <8CAC72047C59D27-1224-1EFF@webmail-de07.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CAC72047C59D27-1224-1EFF@webmail-de07.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CAC72720F0B978-1224-2019@webmail-de07.sysops.aol.com>

 My thanks to Stan Foster and Mark Bullard who both came through with pdf files of the document.

Cheers,

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From Catpusher at aol.com  Thu Aug  7 23:14:17 2008
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 01:14:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] Subject:  tr-3 forward rear leaf spring bolt
Message-ID: <c10.3f6cd890.35cd3029@aol.com>

Many years ago I broke the main leaf on one side, forward of the axle.  I 
decided to drive home several hundred exciting miles before replacing the broken 
main leaf.
 
I used a threaded rod screwed into the threads in the inner end of the pin, a 
half inch drive socket that fit over the pin boss and pin, two greased flat 
washers, and a good nut on the pulling threads.  The socket did
leave a slight mark in the frame.
 
It was a good thing that I did this at home, as it took many hours with 
penetrating oils,  a small torch,
and the knock-off hammer to free the pin from the spring bush, let alone the 
frame. 
 
 Anti-rust lube is a must.  I was able to change a failed spring eye bush at 
the race track in short order with the same socket trick years later.
 
Hardy          See you at the Glen?
 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri Aug  8 06:03:47 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 08:03:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A wiring harness
Message-ID: <000801c8f94e$d0b7c950$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

List,

Was the original colour of the TR4A main wiring harness blue or black?

Thanks,

Ed Woods

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Aug  8 07:06:39 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 14:06:39 +0100
Subject: [TR] VTR 2009 - Where?
References: <003601c8f906$9cbf4580$d63dd080$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <012201c8f957$999774d0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

AFAIK Johnnie, SLO is the place for 2009. Personally, I hope that still holds good because I'm due 
to finish there in time for the event after doing 11,000+ miles in the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity 
Drive!!
If the organisers have had a change of heart (or location) could someone please let me know, rather 
soon?

Jonmac

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 4:26 AM
Subject: [TR] VTR 2009 - Where?


> Does anyone know where the 2009 combo VTR Challenge & Triumphest will be
> held?  I heard whisperings that it was going to be around the San Luis
> Obispo area. Anybody got the true skinny?
>
>
>
> Johnnie
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug  8 07:06:40 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 06:06:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR 2009 - Where?
In-Reply-To: <003601c8f906$9cbf4580$d63dd080$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20080808130641.HVUC757.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Does anyone know where the 2009 combo VTR Challenge & 
> Triumphest will be held?  I heard whisperings that it was 
> going to be around the San Luis Obispo area. Anybody got the 
> true skinny?

That is correct.  Wed, Sept 30 through Sun Oct 4.  The official announcement
should go out in a few days.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug  8 07:11:16 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 06:11:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR 2009 - Where?
In-Reply-To: <012201c8f957$999774d0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <20080808131116.SHVC15817.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> If the organisers have had a change of heart (or location) 
> could someone please let me know, rather soon?

Sorry, John, no can do.  Protocol requires that while you are checking in to
the hotel, they deliver a note telling you we've moved the venue across the
state.

But that's OK, it's a pretty area and you'll enjoy the drive <G>

Randall

PS, I'm kidding, of course.

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Aug  8 08:48:45 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2008 09:48:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] re TR4 help, cooling fan, conclusion
In-Reply-To: <1AE9338A09C24330A5ABE5E1E2228116@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <cac.39b28e94.35cbb47f@aol.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080807094805.02b2bf68@nosimport.com>
	<D5F513CADE794E6B969720D32A2EB8DD@jdnet.deere.com>
	<000901c8f8ba$c8b575c0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<1AE9338A09C24330A5ABE5E1E2228116@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080808094542.03c100d0@nosimport.com>

Well, so much for conclusions.  LOL
Anyway, I got the fan today that my customer isn't buying, and 
certainly there will be a difference in PERFORMANCE of the fan 
depending on how it is mounted. The blades have a raised bit, or 
sunken bit depending on POV, that would seem to have some effect.

Peter C
==
At 05:57 PM 8/7/2008, Randall wrote:
> > Just curious but if flipping the blade over has no impact, why does Hayden
> > have you flip the blade and swap the wires around to turn a pusher into a
> > puller?
>
>I only said it wouldn't change the direction, I didn't say it would have no
>impact.
>
>As Joe says, the Hayden blades are designed to be more efficient in one
>direction.  That's why you are supposed to flip them over to change from a
>pusher to a puller.  If you don't flip them as directed, the air flow will
>still be in the right direction, just not as much.
>
>And the wires need to be changed because you are turning the motor front to
>back.  If you didn't swap them, the motor rotation as viewed from the
>driver's seat would change, due to the change in orientation.
>
>Randall

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Fri Aug  8 09:36:11 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 11:36:11 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A wiring harness
Message-ID: <cd7.390df767.35cdc1eb@aol.com>

Per TRA's Concours Guide, the TR4 harness was wrapped in a medium blue vinyl 
while the 4A was in black.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana


**************
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in 
your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.
      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Aug  8 09:55:42 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 16:55:42 +0100
Subject: [TR] VTR 2009 - Where?
References: <20080808131116.SHVC15817.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <015f01c8f96f$370ec4e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

>> If the organisers have had a change of heart (or location)
>> could someone please let me know, rather soon?
>
> Sorry, John, no can do.  Protocol requires that while you are checking in to
> the hotel, they deliver a note telling you we've moved the venue across the
> state.
>
> But that's OK, it's a pretty area and you'll enjoy the drive <G>
>
> Randall
>
> PS, I'm kidding, of course.

Thank you, Randall. I'm re-assured. I'm confident it is indeed a pretty area - but after 11,000 odd 
miles I'm not too sure how I'd react to doing at bit more and at very short notice :)

Cheers, John 

From one_second_zero at yahoo.com  Fri Aug  8 10:27:09 2008
From: one_second_zero at yahoo.com (Greg)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 09:27:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TRF weekly email
Message-ID: <545872.54148.qm@web50610.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Got my usual TRF weekly email but this one is of special note...  It's the
first one I remember in some time that hasn't gone on about how it was written
at 2:30 am.  ;-)
 
I did enjoy the mailer with the photos from the summer party.  Wish I could
make it to one someday but it's just too far.

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Fri Aug  8 12:03:40 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 14:03:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sears Engine Analyzer 161.216300 Instructions
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21350.1218044541.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21350.1218044541.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ED80B0F2-2A66-432C-8673-B01000826350@comcast.net>

I picked up a Sears engine analyzer in a yard sale. Would any lister  
have the same or a similar unit? I am hoping to get a copy of the  
instructions.

This unit measures V, A, RPM, Dwell angle, and Points quality . This  
model has 4 leads:

Red and Black leads for power. A green lead, ending in a crocodile  
clip; a double lead that ends in a metal plate that looks like a door  
lock striker plate (probably to measure alternator output). It also  
has a 2-inch wire with male and female spade connectors, one at each  
end.

I would be happy to pay you to photocopy your instructions, or if you  
trust, send me your instructions, I'll copy and return them immediately.

I find it rather surprising in the internet age, that Sears have not  
made instructions for their products available online for download.  
When I think of the times I have downloaded manuals for phones, GPS,  
cameras, printers from 'up-to-date' suppliers, Sears' resistance to  
make .pdf files for their products hints at a dinosaur lurching to its  
final demise.

Thanks for your help,

Brian

From dncullig at us.ibm.com  Fri Aug  8 12:15:18 2008
From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 14:15:18 -0400
Subject: [TR]  TRF weekly email
Message-ID: <OF0FCFE890.460C01AB-ON8525749F.0063F032-8525749F.00644737@us.ibm.com>

Greg wrote:
>I did enjoy the mailer with the photos from the summer party.  Wish I
could
>make it to one someday but it's just too far.

Greg -
  Too late - Charles made it pretty clear that this
year's TRF Summer Party was to be the last.

Dennis Culligan / 1976 TR6 CF57948U / TR6IUMPH

From mgodley at tiac.net  Fri Aug  8 12:28:50 2008
From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 14:28:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Wiring Harness
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1218218401.764.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1218218401.764.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8990C99DC341418F9521E1CE2E84FDF8@MichaelPC>

" List, Was the original color of the TR4A main wiring harness blue or
black?.  Thanks, Ed Woods"

Ed, I have an mid year  1965 model TR4A and the harness was wrapped in blue
tape..don't know when they made the switch to black.

Michael Godley
617.513.2516
mgodley at tiac.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug  8 14:21:41 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 13:21:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRF weekly email
In-Reply-To: <OF0FCFE890.460C01AB-ON8525749F.0063F032-8525749F.00644737@us.ibm.com>
References: <OF0FCFE890.460C01AB-ON8525749F.0063F032-8525749F.00644737@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <390A41A7A3734FBDBAEE9E490F2F1135@jdnet.deere.com>

>   Too late - Charles made it pretty clear that this
> year's TRF Summer Party was to be the last.

Yeah, but he's been saying that for years.

Randall

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Fri Aug  8 14:23:58 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 16:23:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] fuel pump blank off plates
Message-ID: <c9e.356f8ce1.35ce055e@aol.com>

and put on one of the blanking plates that someone on the list sells.  Was it
> Joe Alexander?


nah. that was me. 
i have been making the fuel pump blank off plates, carb gauges, wheel 
spacers.ETC
however i have been having a heck of a time lately getting my machinist to 
fab some more TR250/5/7/spitfire
Still have the wet cylinder blank off's available though.
Frank Fisher
Temecula CA



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug  8 14:37:04 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 13:37:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Sears Engine Analyzer 161.216300 Instructions
In-Reply-To: <ED80B0F2-2A66-432C-8673-B01000826350@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.21350.1218044541.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<ED80B0F2-2A66-432C-8673-B01000826350@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <968AF2F7704F4E68B98F97CCB92FDA02@jdnet.deere.com>

> A green lead, ending in a crocodile
> clip;

That's the point lead.

> a double lead that ends in a metal plate that looks like a door
> lock striker plate (probably to measure alternator output).

Or any other current you care to measure.

> It also
> has a 2-inch wire with male and female spade connectors, one at each
> end.

I'd guess that's part of the current probe, to be inserted into the circuit
and mated to the "striker plate" mentioned above.

> I find it rather surprising in the internet age, that Sears have not
> made instructions for their products available online for download.

How long do you suppose that model has been obsolete, 30 years?

> hints at a dinosaur lurching to its
> final demise.

Could be, but just try downloading a datasheet for an Intel 8080, which is
newer than your analyzer...

Randall

From blambert at socal.rr.com  Fri Aug  8 14:59:54 2008
From: blambert at socal.rr.com (blambert at socal.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 13:59:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR 2009 - Where?
Message-ID: <29739915.1115171218229194375.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web21-z02>

Yes, It will be held at the Embassy Suites Hotel in San Luis Obispo, CA.  And, while this is unofficial information at this moment, the official announcement will be given in a matter if hours, tonight at he VTR awards banquet.  (And the location is set in stone; we've signed the contracts).
Dennis (at the 2008 NATC/VTR 2008 - a great event; ya shoulda been here!)

---- Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote: 
> 
> That is correct.  Wed, Sept 30 through Sun Oct 4.  The official announcement
> should go out in a few days.
> 
> Randall

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Fri Aug  8 16:29:02 2008
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 17:29:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bumper bashed! Suggestions?
Message-ID: <abb8688a0808081529w69cff674k61faf9768371fb8f@mail.gmail.com>

Ok, gang, if you drive 'em sooner or later one gets bent.  Today a
parking lot altercation left "Murphy" with a scratched up rear bumper
and no overriders.   The insurance companies are still sorting out the
who pays, but I am already looking at repair options.  The car is a
1976 USA spec 1500 with the big square bumper cover and large rubber
overrides.  As far as I can tell there are no aftermarket parts
available for this configuration so I am thinking about going to the
earlier or UK configuration as I like that look a little better
anyway.  Any thoughts?  Anyone have parts available?

John Innis
NASS#268
"Murphy" 1976 Spit 1500 Bent
Cedar Rapids, IA

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown =
=================================

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Aug  8 17:21:46 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 19:21:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] fuel pump blank off plates
In-Reply-To: <c9e.356f8ce1.35ce055e@aol.com>
References: <c9e.356f8ce1.35ce055e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000901c8f9ad$8924fc20$210110ac@bobspc>

You can see some of the stuff Frank makes here
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of FGFO1 at aol.com
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 4:24 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] fuel pump blank off plates

and put on one of the blanking plates that someone on the list sells.  Was
it
> Joe Alexander?


nah. that was me. 
i have been making the fuel pump blank off plates, carb gauges, wheel
spacers.ETC however i have been having a heck of a time lately getting my
machinist to fab some more TR250/5/7/spitfire Still have the wet cylinder
blank off's available though.
Frank Fisher
Temecula CA



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000
017 ) _______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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From tr6parts at charter.net  Fri Aug  8 18:52:58 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 20:52:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rota RB wheels
Message-ID: <009501c8f9ba$448f3b90$d44a9e18@alan>

Is anyone using Rota RB wheels on a TR6.

They are similar  to Panasports. They come in 16 an 17 inch.

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/74tr6/ac60_11.jpg

I wanted to make sure of the clearence.

Thanks

Al

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Aug  8 18:59:00 2008
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 20:59:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Wiring Harness
References: <mailman.5.1218218401.764.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8990C99DC341418F9521E1CE2E84FDF8@MichaelPC>
Message-ID: <00d601c8f9bb$1c9ad990$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5>

Michael,

Ed was asking the question on my behalf. I have TR4A CTC 69150L a May 1966 
build. I am the 2nd owner and have had the car since June 1969. My wiring 
harness is Black and always has been. My question to you is what is your 
Commission Number for as far as I know they have always been black in the 
4A's. Of course that is always subject to finding that what we all think is 
correct is in fact incorrect!

Photo attached from 1969 and more recent. Will be stripped from list copy.

Undergoing a long awaited restoration and presently off the road. Ed is 
wanting to help me get it done along with a few of my other WPTA friends. I 
only have a few, but they are truly great friends!

JVV


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Godley" <mgodley at tiac.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Wiring Harness


>" List, Was the original color of the TR4A main wiring harness blue or
> black?.  Thanks, Ed Woods"
>
> Ed, I have an mid year  1965 model TR4A and the harness was wrapped in 
> blue
> tape..don't know when they made the switch to black.
>
> Michael Godley
> 617.513.2516
> mgodley at tiac.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as jerryvv at roadrunner.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.6.0/1601 - Release Date: 8/8/2008 
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR4A at  TRF.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR4A from June 1969 #1.JPG]

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From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Fri Aug  8 18:41:00 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz)
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2008 18:41:00
Subject: [TR] Triumphest at big bear years ago?
Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20080808184100.18e71f80@pop.west.cox.net>

Does anybody remember the hotel that Triumphest was at when it was at Big
Bear?  I believe that it was in 1996 - My Wife and I were thinking of
booking a weekend at the same hotel in a couple of weeks, but can't really
nail down the name - We think it was at the Northwoods but my aging memory
may be failing me???

Thanks in advance

Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San Diego)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug  8 21:47:14 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 20:47:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Wiring Harness
In-Reply-To: <00d601c8f9bb$1c9ad990$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <20080809034715.IQUC14026.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> My question to you is what is your Commission 
> Number for as far as I know they have always been black in 
> the 4A's. Of course that is always subject to finding that 
> what we all think is correct is in fact incorrect!

I have no idea what's "correct" here ... but I've read somewhere that they
had different suppliers for wiring harnesses and bought from whoever met
their needs the best.  So it's at least possible that it could be either
blue or black, depending on which supplier it came from?

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  9 08:06:54 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 14:06:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] NOS TR3A parts.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W192DD8ED6A1D2DD4E36327E5770@phx.gbl>

Yesterday I was cleaning out a store room I have had some auto parts in for 19
years.  Lo and behold I found a shipping box from TRF with brand new parts in
it.  Curiously I have ordered the same parts again and installed them on my
car so I have no use for the ones I found.  My best guess would be that I
purchased the parts I found in the mid-eighties.

I have a full set of rear fender stone guards and a pair of door threshold
finishers.

I thought I would offer them to the list before I put them on E-bay.

Currently the finishers have been on back order at TRF for a considerable
length of time.

These parts are still in the original shipping box and are covered in plastic
protectant.  The finishers at taped to a board that has prevented any
distortion over the years, these parts have never been out of their box.

Finisher (one pair)  $37.50

Rear fender stone guards (complete set)  $129.95

Best regards,
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get Windows Live and get whatever you need, wherever you are.  Start here.
http://www.windowslive.com/default.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Home_082008

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Sat Aug  9 08:50:29 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2008 09:50:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR8 in Charlotte
Message-ID: <200808091450.m79EoYSV027195@ns3.geneseo.net>

Is anyone on the list familiar with the TR8 for sale at this website?

http://automotivewarehouses.com/showcar.cgi?19811442122_62201il_249_1017992

uncle jack 

From pboldtrix at juno.com  Sat Aug  9 09:12:25 2008
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 15:12:25 GMT
Subject: [TR] Triumphest at big bear years ago?
Message-ID: <20080809.111225.16015.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>

1996 is the correct year, but don't know the hotel as I wasn't there.  It's
memorable cause I collect grill badges and that was the year they spelled
Triumphest as "Truimphest" on their badge.  An expensive mistake.
Phil Bacon  72 TR6

-- Barry Schwartz wrote:
Does anybody remember the hotel that Triumphest was at when it was at Big
Bear?  I believe that it was in 1996 - My Wife and I were thinking of
booking a weekend at the same hotel in a couple of weeks, but can't really
nail down the name - We think it was at the Northwoods but my aging memory
may be failing me???

Thanks in advance

Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San Diego)

____________________________________________________________
Click here to lower your monthly payments.  Act now and save!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/Ioyw6iiglnIJG3aZi8kHN3OIFfK5xgS0h
I01fp7i6AjbsuYuIbWQPX/

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat Aug  9 09:50:20 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 11:50:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question on lubrication for poly bushings
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPKECBFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Hi All,
I am starting to assemble my TR4A front suspension and after installing the
lower suspension, it squeaks. Is there a recommended grease that I can use
when installing these new bushings that will reduce the squeak factor
without damaging the bushings? Seems there was something but I can't
remember now.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
67 TR4A (Finally going back together)
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Sat Aug  9 10:36:24 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 12:36:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 387
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21671.1218297130.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21671.1218297130.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <167CA2EE-80E4-4426-B3EB-FF63F8474E5D@comcast.net>

> <snip>
>
>> I find it rather surprising in the internet age, that Sears have not
>> made instructions for their products available online for download.
>
> How long do you suppose that model has been obsolete, 30 years?
>
>> hints at a dinosaur lurching to its
>> final demise.
>
> Could be, but just try downloading a datasheet for an Intel 8080,  
> which is
> newer than your analyzer...
>
> Randall

Randall - they do not make downloads available for stuff they sell  
now. There are sites on the web - a bit like dating sites - where  
people try to 'meet up' with the Sears or Kenmore manual they need.

Some folks even seem to be making a commercial website out of it: http://tv.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/sears/sears_product_list.html

Google 'sears manual download', and you'll find people pleading for a  
download link for a sears item recently purchased.

This analyzer isn't obsolete. Like my car, it is just not sold anymore.

Brian

From areich at telus.net  Sat Aug  9 12:25:36 2008
From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich)
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2008 11:25:36 -0700
Subject: [TR]  Sears Engine Analyzer 161.216300 Instructions
Message-ID: <489DE120.9030900@telus.net>

I have one and have attched page 1 (I know the list will discard but you 
will get it)
I bought it when I was about 21 ... that's 44 years ago .. it has  
Canadian Number but may be the same one .
If it's the same one, I will sac the rest of the pages and send it to you
Allan Reich
1960 TR3A TS65713L (+O)
Vancouver

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Sears Engine Analyzer p1.pdf]

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sat Aug  9 13:58:01 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2008 15:58:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question on lubrication for poly bushings
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPKECBFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPKECBFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <8CAC8715D002846-CA8-C91@FWM-M42.sysops.aol.com>

 Dave,

I went to NAPA and bought some moly grease.? No squeaks so far.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 11:50 am
Subject: [TR] Question on lubrication for poly bushings










Hi All,
I am starting to assemble my TR4A front suspension and after installing the
lower suspension, it squeaks. Is there a recommended grease that I can use
when installing these new bushings that will reduce the squeak factor
without damaging the bushings? Seems there was something but I can't
remember now.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
67 TR4A (Finally going back together)
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Aug  9 15:11:35 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 17:11:35 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr-3 forward rear leaf spring bolt
Message-ID: <d4e.33796f79.35cf6207@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/7/2008 9:35:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes:

The  springs are easy to remove and install with the forward pivot bolt  
rusted
in place.  All you have to do is remove the rear fender  first.



I am not clear as to why you would remove the fender as the bolt is  
considerably forward of the fender mounting.  Did you find out what  "popped"?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  9 18:05:05 2008
From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 17:05:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] A question and a request
Message-ID: <29878.12978.qm@web37603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello the list.  I have a question involving my steering rack.  I had a new one installed, and there is a lot of play in the wheel.  I was told by a very nice fellow that owns a TR4 that there are some washers that can be removed from the shaft that allows is to sit closer into the steering rack, thereby eliminating the play in the steering wheel.  Is this correct on a 71 TR6 as well?  Also is this a difficult job, and can it be done by most any competent mechanic?  
  Also, for some reason I have lost the link to the site that asks what kind of car you are.  I was a Miata, now my girlfriend wants to know what kind of car she is.  If someone would be kind enough to resend I would appreciate it.  Thanks in advance,
Bryan

From darrellw at ipns.com  Sat Aug  9 18:09:17 2008
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 17:09:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] A question and a request
In-Reply-To: <29878.12978.qm@web37603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <29878.12978.qm@web37603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0D487205-71D0-494C-BD1D-4254A31EA201@ipns.com>

Hi Bryan,

If you have not already done so, check the rest of the system for play  
before you start messing with the rack.  Is securely mounted?  Any  
play in the u-joints on the column?  Even worn bushings in the column  
will feel like play.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Aug  9 18:12:24 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 20:12:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] John Esposito
Message-ID: <003101c8fa7d$c4fefb80$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

List,

Has anyone been able to raise John Esposito of Quantumechanics recently,
either by phone or email?

Thanks,

Ed Woods

From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  9 18:15:59 2008
From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 17:15:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] A question and a request
Message-ID: <400087.35225.qm@web37607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks Darrell, but I have already checked everything except the steering column itself.  The
whole front end was changed out when the rack was put on, 
and the allignment guy said that it was a good job.  Steering rack mounting brackets are in good shape too.  Thing is, this play was not
there before I had the new rack installed, leading me to
believe that it is in the rack itself.  Thanks again.
Bryan
> 
> 
> --- On Sat, 8/9/08, Darrell Walker
> <darrellw at ipns.com> wrote:
> 
> > From: Darrell Walker <darrellw at ipns.com>
> > Subject: Re: [TR] A question and a request
> > To: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com
> > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Date: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 7:09 PM
> > Hi Bryan,
> > 
> > If you have not already done so, check the rest of the
> > system for play  
> > before you start messing with the rack.  Is securely
> > mounted?  Any  
> > play in the u-joints on the column?  Even worn
> bushings in
> > the column  
> > will feel like play.

From january at chemeketa.edu  Sat Aug  9 18:24:24 2008
From: january at chemeketa.edu (January Williams)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 17:24:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
Message-ID: <4C7800EB52CF054BB0B4FF50968C1B66CEA280@cccmail2.chemeketa.network>

My bro-in-law is thinking of converting his 3 to auto to enable his father to
drive it.

I think later TRs had borg-warners as a factory option, what model(s)
transmissions?

Would they drop in or require extensive custom fabricationany listers running
auto trans?

January Williams - Salem, Oregon

TR4A CTC 74217 LO

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Aug  9 18:35:17 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 20:35:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Speedometer Repair Document
Message-ID: <000001c8fa80$f8836e20$210110ac@bobspc>

Tony Rhodes was kind enough to let me post his invaluable speedometer repair
document to my web site. The link is on the main page in the "Other Cool
Stuff" section with the grey colored buttons. It's about 1.5 meg in size and
require Adobe Acrobat.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sat Aug  9 18:39:44 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 20:39:44 EDT
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
Message-ID: <c3d.3bae7052.35cf92d0@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/9/2008 5:26:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
january at chemeketa.edu writes:

My  bro-in-law is thinking of converting his 3 to auto to enable his father  
to
drive it.

I think later TRs had borg-warners as a factory option,  what model(s)
transmissions?

Would they drop in or require extensive  custom fabricationany listers running
auto trans?

January Williams -  Salem, Oregon

TR4A CTC 74217 LO



Steve Hedke of British Pacific Rovers in Valencia,  Calif, converted a TR6 to 
autotrans for his father. As I recall. one  problem he had was that the 
tranny for some reason had to be clocked slightly,  perhaps because of the dodnor 
car.
 
I think he used a Borg 11 or 12 . I woud think a Borg 12 from a Stag  would  
work well, although the  XJ6  crowd was  converting those to GM auto trannys a 
few years ago when I had an  XJ6.
 
 
Mike Moore



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  9 18:53:16 2008
From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 17:53:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Speedometer Repair Document
In-Reply-To: <000001c8fa80$f8836e20$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <793487.99557.qm@web37605.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

In the oponion of the list, where is the best place to send a speedo and tack from a TR6 to be repaired?  Mine are out of the car and ready to box.  Thanks in advance
Bryan


--- On Sat, 8/9/08, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

> From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> Subject: [TR] Speedometer Repair Document
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net, "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 7:35 PM
> Tony Rhodes was kind enough to let me post his invaluable
> speedometer repair
> document to my web site. The link is on the main page in
> the "Other Cool
> Stuff" section with the grey colored buttons. It's
> about 1.5 meg in size and
> require Adobe Acrobat.
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as paradise.712002 at yahoo.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug  9 19:06:33 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 18:06:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
In-Reply-To: <4C7800EB52CF054BB0B4FF50968C1B66CEA280@cccmail2.chemeketa.network>
Message-ID: <20080810010634.XMGK28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I think later TRs had borg-warners as a factory option, what 
> model(s) transmissions?

Stags used BW35 and BW65.

> Would they drop in or require extensive custom fabrication

Seems problematic to me.

The first problem I see would be that the Triumphs that had autos, also had
engines with interchangeable rear plates (so the plate could be drilled to
match the transmission).  That was how Steve Hedke did his conversion, using
the rear plate from a different Triumph that would bolt up to the 6-cyl and
a BW35.

Unfortunately, AFAIK, Triumph never mated an auto to the TRactor motor; and
since the bolt pattern was different for the other autos, they won't bolt
up.  Of course it would be possible to make an adapter plate, but it
requires precision layout of holes that are a long way apart.  If the
alignment isn't just right, you'll get terrible vibration.

Same problem with the flywheel; automatics use a "flex plate" with a
different hole pattern.

Then there's the question of whether it would fit between the frame rails.
As I recall, Steve wrote that it was a good thing the rear plate he used put
the gearbox at an angle, because it wouldn't have fit between the rails
otherwise.  And TR6s are wider for at least part of the transmission opening
than the TR3 is.

Randall

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Sat Aug  9 19:08:29 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 21:08:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Torqueing a TR head
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21671.1218297130.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21671.1218297130.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DA892D82-C706-4116-8FBF-28E0A9E76445@comcast.net>

Listerati:

I have read in the archives, regarding re-installation of the TR head,  
several recommendations on torquing the head per Haynes (or other)  
instructions, and then re-torquing when the engine is hot, and again,  
after 200 or 500 miles.

Neither my Triumph Manual nor Mr Haynes make mention of re-torquing  
when hot, or after a distance covered.

Is this, though, this list's recommendation, borne of experience?

If it matters, I am using a Payen copper gasket, and will coat it with  
copper spray. My bolts have clean threads and will be lubed to help  
provide an accurate torque.

In re-torquing, if that is what I am to do, do you back the nut off  
and bring it back up to the torque value? (Sorry to ask yet another  
dumb question.)

I have a fun day tomorrow. I am reinstalling a head with  
professionally cut 3-angle valve seats, an amateurly performed, but  
careful and earnest 'port and polish' (me) to my car that hasn't seen  
the outside of my garage in 6 or 8 weeks, since I broke a pushrod in  
June. In this rebuilding process, I learned that this head was cut  
long ago to increase compression to 10.5, as I have discovered in  
buretting the combustion chambers. I knew this car had some zip, now I  
know why  ;^)

In this rebuild, I have converted to the slim-stem exhaust valves,  
removed casting faults and design obstructions from the head, opened  
up what I could of the head and intake manifold, and am hoping for  
even more zip.

I'll be very happy to get this puppy back on the road.

Thanks for any advice on re-torquing ...

Cheers,

Brian

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug  9 19:11:29 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 18:11:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedometer Repair Document
In-Reply-To: <793487.99557.qm@web37605.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080810011130.MCLM13299.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> In the oponion of the list, where is the best place to send a 
> speedo and tack from a TR6 to be repaired?

Mo-Ma seems to win on quality, but last I heard, they were badly backlogged.

MO-MA
1321 2nd St NW
Albuquerque, NM 87102
(505) 766-6661
momanm at aol.com

Of course there are others around, like
West Valley Instruments
19314  Van Owen Blvd. 
Reseda, CA, 91335 
818.758.9500

and

North Hollywood Speedometer & Clock Co.
6111 Lankershim Blvd.
North Hollywood, CA 91606
Phone 818-761-5136
Fax 818-761-4857
http://www.nhspeedometer.com/

Randall

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Sat Aug  9 19:15:12 2008
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2008 21:15:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR8 in Charlotte
In-Reply-To: <200808091450.m79EoYSV027195@ns3.geneseo.net>
References: <200808091450.m79EoYSV027195@ns3.geneseo.net>
Message-ID: <489E4120.3020203@earthlink.net>

No, but a $25K TR8??!?!?!?!? Yikes, what year did I warp to?


Jack W. Drews wrote:
> Is anyone on the list familiar with the TR8 for sale at this website?
>
> http://automotivewarehouses.com/showcar.cgi?19811442122_62201il_249_1017992
>
> uncle jack 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Sat Aug  9 21:09:47 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 23:09:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
Message-ID: <c2c.3f117e24.35cfb5fb@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/9/2008 9:10:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

The  first problem I see would be that the Triumphs that had autos, also  had
engines with interchangeable rear plates (so the plate could be drilled  to
match the transmission).  That was how Steve Hedke did his  conversion, using
the rear plate from a different Triumph that would bolt  up to the 6-cyl and
a BW35.
I think Steve used bits from a Triumph 2000 sedan?

Unfortunately, AFAIK, Triumph never mated an auto to the TRactor  motor;
True, if you don't count at least one prototype TR3A that Triumph built.  One 
big problem they encountered was encroachment of that big old Type 35 on the  
driver's footwell, etc.

Then  there's the question of whether it would fit between the frame rails.
As I  recall, Steve wrote that it was a good thing the rear plate he used put
the  gearbox at an angle, because it wouldn't have fit between the  rails
otherwise.  And TR6s are wider for at least part of the  transmission opening
than the TR3 is.


I wonder if that was a happy coincidence of using bits from the 2000, since  
the engine in said cars was mounted at something like a 5 degree (?)  angle?
 
--Andy Mace
_http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us) 
 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sat Aug  9 21:32:44 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2008 23:32:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Speedometer Repair Document
References: <793487.99557.qm@web37605.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004401c8fa99$c0c90940$0c477247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

If you have a very large bank account "Nisonger", for a good price as well 
as service the name escapes right now, Mo-My sounds close.  "FT"
==========================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bryan Loy" <paradise.712002 at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer Repair Document


> In the oponion of the list, where is the best place to send a speedo and 
> tack from a TR6 to be repaired?  Mine are out of the car and ready to box. 
> Thanks in advance
> Bryan
>
>
> --- On Sat, 8/9/08, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:
>
>> From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
>> Subject: [TR] Speedometer Repair Document
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net, "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 7:35 PM
>> Tony Rhodes was kind enough to let me post his invaluable
>> speedometer repair
>> document to my web site. The link is on the main page in
>> the "Other Cool
>> Stuff" section with the grey colored buttons. It's
>> about 1.5 meg in size and
>> require Adobe Acrobat.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Bob Danielson
>> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
>> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
>> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
>> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> You are subscribed as paradise.712002 at yahoo.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sat Aug  9 21:45:54 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2008 23:45:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
References: <c2c.3f117e24.35cfb5fb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00c901c8fa9b$978cef90$0c477247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

John Warfield convertered his T/R 3 with a 2000 almos 20 years ago, I think 
the mount had the be E Longa Gated about 2", still driving it, might also 
check thr TRA archives for his specs.  "FT"
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ZoboHerald at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?


> In a message dated 8/9/2008 9:10:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:
>
> The  first problem I see would be that the Triumphs that had autos, also 
> had
> engines with interchangeable rear plates (so the plate could be drilled 
> to
> match the transmission).  That was how Steve Hedke did his  conversion, 
> using
> the rear plate from a different Triumph that would bolt  up to the 6-cyl 
> and
> a BW35.
> I think Steve used bits from a Triumph 2000 sedan?
>
> Unfortunately, AFAIK, Triumph never mated an auto to the TRactor  motor;
> True, if you don't count at least one prototype TR3A that Triumph built. 
> One
> big problem they encountered was encroachment of that big old Type 35 on 
> the
> driver's footwell, etc.
>
> Then  there's the question of whether it would fit between the frame 
> rails.
> As I  recall, Steve wrote that it was a good thing the rear plate he used 
> put
> the  gearbox at an angle, because it wouldn't have fit between the  rails
> otherwise.  And TR6s are wider for at least part of the  transmission 
> opening
> than the TR3 is.
>
>
> I wonder if that was a happy coincidence of using bits from the 2000, 
> since
> the engine in said cars was mounted at something like a 5 degree (?) 
> angle?
>
> --Andy Mace
> _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us)
>
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
> budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 
>  )
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug  9 22:32:31 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 21:32:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
In-Reply-To: <c2c.3f117e24.35cfb5fb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080810043231.EIVO757.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I wonder if that was a happy coincidence of using bits from 
> the 2000, since the engine in said cars was mounted at 
> something like a 5 degree (?)  angle?

Yes, that's it.  Parts came from a Triumph 2000, which had the engine canted
to lower the hood line.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug  9 22:43:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 21:43:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Torqueing a TR head
In-Reply-To: <DA892D82-C706-4116-8FBF-28E0A9E76445@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080810044354.OAJG15817.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Neither my Triumph Manual nor Mr Haynes make mention of 
> re-torquing when hot, or after a distance covered.

The TR3 owner's manual mentions it, and I thought the TR6 owner's manual did
as well.  There is even a factory Technical Service Bulletin instructing
dealers to retorque Stag head nuts during pre-delivery inspection.

> Is this, though, this list's recommendation, borne of experience?

Most of the time, probably, it's not absolutely necessary IMO.  But, it's
cheap insurance so why not do it?

> My bolts have clean threads and 
> will be lubed to help provide an accurate torque.

That's a slippery slope, as lubricants vary widely in how they modify the
torque values.  And where are you going to get torque values for your
lubricant (or any lubricant for that matter) ?

> In re-torquing, if that is what I am to do, do you back the 
> nut off and bring it back up to the torque value? (Sorry to 
> ask yet another dumb question.)

Yes.

Randall

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 10 08:23:53 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 10:23:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] NATC 2009  (VTR) pictures
Message-ID: <BAY123-W366FD863E6CBDDE03DF6A1BA760@phx.gbl>

There was a guy taking a bunch of pictures of the autocross Thursday. Go to
www.digiproofs.com and use guest password TRRiverside.  Be sure to check out
the positive camber on the black Spitfire. that must have been a handful.

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Get more from your digital life.  Find out how.
http://www.windowslive.com/default.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Home2_082008

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Aug 10 08:46:53 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 10:46:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] NATC 2009  (VTR) pictures
Message-ID: <c23.432670b9.35d0595d@aol.com>

Yep...that brings back memories of my '70 Spit Mark 3 at the TRF summer  
picnic autocross back in 1999 (or 2000 can't remember!).  The inside  wheel would 
lift high enough to come back down and chirp the tires - I was  a driving 
advertisement for needing a camber compensator and "what not to do" if  you're 
really serious about shaving time off of your score since precious  seconds tick 
away while your car is trying to sort out its geometry  dilemma:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/10/2008 10:26:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:

Be sure  to check out
the positive camber on the black  Spitfire.




**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
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From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Aug 10 08:57:27 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 14:57:27 +0000
Subject: [TR] NATC 2009  (VTR) pictures
Message-ID: <081020081457.9271.489F01D700039F880000243722165486869D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: Chip19474 at aol.com
> Yep...that brings back memories of my '70 Spit Mark 3 at the TRF summer  
> picnic autocross back in 1999 (or 2000 can't remember!).  The inside  wheel 
> would 
> lift high enough to come back down and chirp the tires - I was  a driving 
> advertisement for needing a camber compensator and "what not to do" if  you're 
> really serious about shaving time off of your score since precious  seconds tick 
> away while your car is trying to sort out its geometry  dilemma:)


As much as we might not like to admit it, Ralph Nadar was right about this.  I think a reading of the SCCA Solo rules will show that steps to correct this are not only encouraged, but required, even in Stock Category.


--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Sun Aug 10 08:59:55 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 10:59:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
Message-ID: <cf7.3aa521ec.35d05c6b@aol.com>

January
I bought Piggots new book, and in there he shows a picture of the factory 
trial of an automatic, but states it never went into production.
Try also this guy who may be looking to remove the auto from his TR3.
_http://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?6,951_ 
(http://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?6,951) 
 
Frank Fisher
 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Aug 10 09:23:42 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 11:23:42 EDT
Subject: [TR] NATC 2008
Message-ID: <d48.36aba994.35d061fe@cs.com>

Convention registration: $90
Batch of home brew for brew swap: $30
Watching Marty's reaction upon seeing his time on his second (third actually) 
FTD winning autocross run: Priceless.

Dave   

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Aug 10 10:02:20 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (spitlist at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 9:02:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] NATC 2009  (VTR) pictures
In-Reply-To: <081020081457.9271.489F01D700039F880000243722165486869D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080810120220.XQUJ7.160877.imail@fed1rmwml40>

The good news is, I just bought 50 pieces of spring stock from which to fabricate more camber compensators.  So there is little chance I will run out anytime soon.

Joe C.
---- pethier at comcast.net wrote: 
> From: Chip19474 at aol.com
> > Yep...that brings back memories of my '70 Spit Mark 3 at the TRF summer  
> > picnic autocross back in 1999 (or 2000 can't remember!).  The inside  wheel 
> > would 
> > lift high enough to come back down and chirp the tires - I was  a driving 
> > advertisement for needing a camber compensator and "what not to do" if  you're 
> > really serious about shaving time off of your score since precious  seconds tick 
> > away while your car is trying to sort out its geometry  dilemma:)
> 
> 
> As much as we might not like to admit it, Ralph Nadar was right about this.  I think a reading of the SCCA Solo rules will show that steps to correct this are not only encouraged, but required, even in Stock Category.
> 
> 
> --
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 10 10:19:29 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 12:19:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] NATC 2009  (VTR) pictures
In-Reply-To: <20080810120220.XQUJ7.160877.imail@fed1rmwml40>
References: <081020081457.9271.489F01D700039F880000243722165486869D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<20080810120220.XQUJ7.160877.imail@fed1rmwml40>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W5297130F05D739B7A43668BA760@phx.gbl>

FWIW, I had recently bolted one of Joe's Camber Compensators to the Spitfire I
ran in Ypsilanti.

Marty



 Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 09:02:20 -0700
 From: spitlist at cox.net
 To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; Chip19474 at aol.com;
Spitfun at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net; trmarty at hotmail.com; pethier at comcast.net
 Subject: Re: [TR] NATC 2009  (VTR) pictures

 The good news is, I just bought 50 pieces of spring stock from which to
fabricate more camber compensators.  So there is little chance I will run out
anytime soon.

 Joe C.


_________________________________________________________________
Your PC, mobile phone, and online services work together like never before.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108587394/direct/01/

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 10 11:03:22 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 13:03:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
In-Reply-To: <00c901c8fa9b$978cef90$0c477247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <c2c.3f117e24.35cfb5fb@aol.com>
	<00c901c8fa9b$978cef90$0c477247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W629327CEB3B7A86AD2BC3A5760@phx.gbl>

> John Warfield convertered his T/R 3 with a 2000 almos 20 years ago, I think
> the mount had the be E Longa Gated about 2", still driving it, might also >
check thr TRA archives for his specs. "FT"
Jim Booth did the conversion for John, and, if I recall correctly, he said
that it went in quite easily. It looked so original that spectators would say,
"I didn't know that these could be had with an automatic!"

This car has since been sold and converted back to the stock gearbox.

John H.

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sun Aug 10 11:23:10 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 13:23:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
References: <c2c.3f117e24.35cfb5fb@aol.com>
	<00c901c8fa9b$978cef90$0c477247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
	<BLU143-W629327CEB3B7A86AD2BC3A5760@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003901c8fb0d$c399c3c0$73477247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

John, correct, I forgot his name and sure was a pretty installation  "FT"
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: John Herrera
  To: FRED E THOMAS ; zoboherald at aol.com
  Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 1:03 PM
  Subject: RE: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?


  > John Warfield convertered his T/R 3 with a 2000 almos 20 years ago, I
think
  > the mount had the be E Longa Gated about 2", still driving it, might also
  > check thr TRA archives for his specs. "FT"

  Jim Booth did the conversion for John, and, if I recall correctly, he said
that it went in quite easily. It looked so original that spectators would say,
"I didn't know that these could be had with an automatic!"

  This car has since been sold and converted back to the stock gearbox.

  John H.

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Aug 10 11:33:50 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 13:33:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] NATC 2009  (VTR) pictures
Message-ID: <cfc.3da02b31.35d0807e@aol.com>

It was definitely on the top of my "to-do" list for the Spit.  That  car was 
sooo much fun!  But a few years ago (after the TR6 restoration) I  had a 
chance to sell the car to a club member who wanted to buy it to surprise  his wife 
for her 40th birthday....so I parted with it.  She still owns it  and drives 
it regularly although I don't think she's doing any fast camber turns  with it!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/10/2008 12:20:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:

I had  recently bolted one of Joe's Camber Compensators to the Spitfire I
ran in  Ypsilanti.





**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From ols at bcdef.net  Sun Aug 10 13:19:03 2008
From: ols at bcdef.net (Alexander Delis)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 15:19:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
Message-ID: <p06240800c4c4ecf2d139@[192.168.123.159]>

Hello all.

I am thinking about getting a new set of wire wheels to replace the 
old and tired ones on my TR3.

The two player are the Dunlop and the Dayton. I want the 60 spoke painted.

I have had people tell me that the Daytons are superior to the 
Dunlop, but the were not able to tell me why; I have had people tell 
me there is no difference in quality between the two.

I can get a much better deal on the Dunlops than I can on the Daytons.

What is the consensus of the list?

Thanks

Alex
-- 
1958 TR3A TS33884L
1968 GT6 Mk l KC10303L
1976 TR6 CF51981U

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Aug 10 13:56:39 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 12:56:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Torqueing a TR head
In-Reply-To: <DA892D82-C706-4116-8FBF-28E0A9E76445@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.21671.1218297130.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<DA892D82-C706-4116-8FBF-28E0A9E76445@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808101256l5b216b5cv4528b60a13fdd0a9@mail.gmail.com>

Probably obvious but a caution just in case -- the early edition of
Haynes TR3/4 specifies a torque of 45#.  As you would expect this is
way too low.  The error was corrected in later editions.

On 8/9/08, Brian Jones <banc8004 at comcast.net> wrote:
> ...several recommendations on torquing the head per Haynes (or other)
> instructions...

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Aug 10 14:18:43 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 16:18:43 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3-a maiden voyage
Message-ID: <bfc.3fef5e14.35d0a723@aol.com>

hello, in ten days to come will be 8 years since i drove the tr3-a that i  
purchased 8/20/00. after one day i dismantled the car and spent eight years  
restoring the car. in the course of the years i dropped a judson supercharger  
into the motor. this morning my buddy meet me at the garage and i fired her up  
and took her out for her maiden voyage for about 1/2 hour. a couple of  issues 
like the brakes in the rear and trying to level out the carb. but, man i  
must tell you after all the hard work it fell "SIMPLY GREAT". i want to say  
thank you to all those that have help me along the way. happy motoring, larry  
schwartz 1960 tr3-a TS77317LOZ w/ judson  suoercharger.



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
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From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Aug 10 14:37:35 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 16:37:35 EDT
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
Message-ID: <c0e.399d85d1.35d0ab8f@aol.com>

Let me jump in here.  Whatever you save on the Dunlops at purchase you  will 
spend twofold maintaining the wheels.  If I were to do it again I  would buy 
the Daytons.  Yes I was lured into "saving" $40 per wheel.   My recommendation? 
 Don't do it.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
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From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Aug 10 14:45:03 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 16:45:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] Torqueing a TR head
Message-ID: <ce1.33c0ce9c.35d0ad4f@aol.com>

After rebuilding my 3A motor with 89mm liners I started the motor and ran  it 
for about 30 minutes at 2500 RPM.  This was not a drive as the car was  not 
assembled.  I had some time on my hands so I pulled the valve assembly  and 
retorqued the head.  I was surprised that 3 or 4 of the nuts took a few  pounds.  
Given that experience I guess I would recommend that route and  then after 
the recommended driving interval.  If I recall correctly, it was  105 ft lbs. 
but I could go look it up.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
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From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Aug 10 14:49:29 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 16:49:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] NATC 2009  (VTR) pictures
In-Reply-To: <081020081457.9271.489F01D700039F880000243722165486869D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <489F1C19.9073.286766B4@localhost>

FYI, the interesting shot is img_4489.jpg, I think.

On 10 Aug 2008 at 14:57, pethier at comcast.net wrote:

> As much as we might not like to admit it, Ralph Nadar was
> right about this.

I would quibble about Mr. Nadar being enough of an engineer to 
understand what he was complaining about.  The Corvair, the subject 
of his book Unsafe At Any Speed on which he made his reputation, was 
not so unsafe as he claimed.  True, the Spitfire's original swing 
axle was indeed problematic.  However there have been some successful 
ones too.  Mercedes Benz used it but with a geometry that gave it a 
much lower pivot axis.  That's the key, of course, keeping the angle 
between tire contact patch and pivot more nearly horizontal so that 
the sum of the cornering vector and the weight vector never add up to 
point lower than the pivot.

But it's a rear suspension, right?  So it's all behind us now.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Aug 10 14:59:54 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 14:59:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] tr3-a maiden voyage
In-Reply-To: <bfc.3fef5e14.35d0a723@aol.com>
References: <bfc.3fef5e14.35d0a723@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601c8fb2c$0ac19250$6501a8c0@sniffer>

Congratulations Larry, enjoy the rest of the summer!

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
L1J1S at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 2:19 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr3-a maiden voyage

hello, in ten days to come will be 8 years since i drove the tr3-a that i
purchased 8/20/00. after one day i dismantled the car and spent eight years
restoring the car. in the course of the years i dropped a judson
supercharger into the motor. this morning my buddy meet me at the garage and
i fired her up and took her out for her maiden voyage for about 1/2 hour. a
couple of  issues like the brakes in the rear and trying to level out the
carb. but, man i must tell you after all the hard work it fell "SIMPLY
GREAT". i want to say thank you to all those that have help me along the
way. happy motoring, larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a TS77317LOZ w/ judson
suoercharger.



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000
017 ) _______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
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1:22 PM

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Aug 10 15:00:08 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 14:00:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
In-Reply-To: <p06240800c4c4ecf2d139@192.168.123.159>
References: <p06240800c4c4ecf2d139@192.168.123.159>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808101400g76def55boc230d84716673eb9@mail.gmail.com>

Probably not much chance of consensus on this choice.

I went with Dunlops (60 spoke painted) about 8 years ago and have had
no problems.  Indeed, I get a 65 mph vibration I have chased for years
on my disc wheels that disappears with the wires.

Yes, one of the Big 3 used to regularly bad-mouth Dunlops (obviously
not the vendor who carries them) saying you would need to have them
tuned when they arrived, etc.  I did not find that to be the case.

I certainly don't have anything against Daytons, I'm just someone who
was quite satisfied with Dunlops.

Geo


On 8/10/08, Alexander Delis <ols at bcdef.net> wrote:
> ...What is the consensus of the list?

From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 10 16:22:01 2008
From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 15:22:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] A question and a request
In-Reply-To: <03c201c8fb34$00170940$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <94980.95335.qm@web37603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have looked at the rack while someone else turned the wheel, there is no play in the rack mountings that I can see.  


--- On Sun, 8/10/08, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:

> From: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] A question and a request
> To: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com
> Date: Sunday, August 10, 2008, 4:56 PM
> Bryan, did the installation include the compression of the
> mounts per the 
9:02 AM

From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 10 16:28:46 2008
From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (ATT Yahoo Mail-rgt2)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 15:28:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
In-Reply-To: <p06240800c4c4ecf2d139@[192.168.123.159]>
References: <p06240800c4c4ecf2d139@[192.168.123.159]>
Message-ID: <44B3F8F422704E6A899E39F26F306929@HomePC>

I went with the Dayton wire wheels when I restored my TR3 and have not had 
any issues at all with them, very satisfied.  No experience with the 
Dunlops.

Rod Trunnell
1962 TR3B  TCF1037l


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alexander Delis" <ols at bcdef.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 12:19 PM
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question


> Hello all.
>
> I am thinking about getting a new set of wire wheels to replace the
> old and tired ones on my TR3.
>
> The two player are the Dunlop and the Dayton. I want the 60 spoke painted.
>
> I have had people tell me that the Daytons are superior to the
> Dunlop, but the were not able to tell me why; I have had people tell
> me there is no difference in quality between the two.
>
> I can get a much better deal on the Dunlops than I can on the Daytons.
>
> What is the consensus of the list?
>
> Thanks
>
> Alex
> -- 
> 1958 TR3A TS33884L
> 1968 GT6 Mk l KC10303L
> 1976 TR6 CF51981U
> _______________________________________________

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Sun Aug 10 16:49:40 2008
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 18:49:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge Capillary Tube
Message-ID: <000501c8fb3b$606e1b10$caaa0018@Scott>

What is the proper way to secure the temp gauge capillary tube to the gas
line? I have the aluminum "clips" and wrote notes when I disassembled them,
but just cannot seem to get a tight fit. Also, it seems like the clip has
about 6 inches of excess if you wrap the strip around the tube and pipe. Do
you cut off the excess?  In some pictures, it looks like there is a piece of
rubber hose under the clip, but the parts manual or catalogs do not show
this. Lastly, is this a secure fit with the clips or more to just hold the
tube relatively close to the pipe?  Any insight on how to do this properly
is greatly appreciated.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Aug 10 18:00:39 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 00:00:39 +0000
Subject: [TR] tr3-a maiden voyage
Message-ID: <081120080000.21245.489F812700085B20000052FD22155754749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Congratulations, Larry!  Well done!  De-bugging will go on for some time, but you're absolutely right.  Nothing compares to the feeling of having stripped a car down to nuts and bolts, reassembling it all, and having your teenaged daughter who began the project saying "What's THAT thing doing in the yard!" end it by pointing it out to her friends, and buying a two-seater sports car herself.

...Just wish I'd started building the garage before the restoration, instead of hoping to raise walls this week.

Terry Smith (Took 3 years to bring TS 58667 back from the junkyard.)
New Hampshire

> hello, in ten days to come will be 8 years since i drove the tr3-a that i 
> purchased 8/20/00. after one day i dismantled the car and spent eight years 
> restoring the car. in the course of the years i dropped a judson supercharger 
> into the motor. this morning my buddy meet me at the garage and i fired her up 
> and took her out for her maiden voyage for about 1/2 hour. a couple of issues 
> like the brakes in the rear and trying to level out the carb. but, man i 
> must tell you after all the hard work it fell "SIMPLY GREAT". i want to say 
> thank you to all those that have help me along the way. happy motoring, larry 
> schwartz 1960 tr3-a TS77317LOZ w/ judson suoercharger. 

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sun Aug 10 18:00:45 2008
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 17:00:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
In-Reply-To: <44B3F8F422704E6A899E39F26F306929@HomePC>
References: <p06240800c4c4ecf2d139@[192.168.123.159]>
	<44B3F8F422704E6A899E39F26F306929@HomePC>
Message-ID: <000301c8fb45$4e898650$eb9c92f0$@rr.com>

It's my understanding that the major difference between the two is the
spokes. The Dunlop's are chrome plated, while the Dayton's are straight
stainless. I was told by others that since spokes flex the chrome plating
will crack. Both require inner tubes. My 4A came originally with painted
Dayton's. I had the wires trued once(at around 60K miles), and he commented
that I should have had them done long before then, since most were loose. 

I bought a set of Daytons from TRF 6 years ago and are happy with them. I
went from 60 spoke painted Dunlop's(originally fitted) to the 72 spoke
version to get a wider tire and fill out the wheel wells. I still have the
60 spokers with the hubs if anyone's interested (they need stripped and
painted).

Johnnie in San Diego
'67 TR4A

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+pdonnel1=san.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+pdonnel1=san.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
ATT Yahoo Mail-rgt2
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 3:29 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Alexander Delis
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheel Question

I went with the Dayton wire wheels when I restored my TR3 and have not had 
any issues at all with them, very satisfied.  No experience with the 
Dunlops.

Rod Trunnell
1962 TR3B  TCF1037l


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alexander Delis" <ols at bcdef.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 12:19 PM
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question


> Hello all.
>
> I am thinking about getting a new set of wire wheels to replace the
> old and tired ones on my TR3.
>
> The two player are the Dunlop and the Dayton. I want the 60 spoke painted.
>
> I have had people tell me that the Daytons are superior to the
> Dunlop, but the were not able to tell me why; I have had people tell
> me there is no difference in quality between the two.
>
> I can get a much better deal on the Dunlops than I can on the Daytons.
>
> What is the consensus of the list?
>
> Thanks
>
> Alex
> -- 
> 1958 TR3A TS33884L
> 1968 GT6 Mk l KC10303L
> 1976 TR6 CF51981U
> _______________________________________________
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as pdonnel1 at san.rr.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Aug 10 21:29:25 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 03:29:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] NATC 2008
Message-ID: <081120080329.25258.489FB21500086B38000062AA22165384969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> Watching Marty's reaction upon seeing his time on his second (third actually) 
> FTD winning autocross run: Priceless.

So the smaller-frame car agrees with him!


--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Aug 10 22:39:29 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 04:39:29 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
Message-ID: <081120080439.27606.489FC28100070A1D00006BD622155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: Alexander Delis <ols at bcdef.net>
> Hello all.
> 
> I am thinking about getting a new set of wire wheels to replace the 
> old and tired ones on my TR3.
> 
> The two player are the Dunlop and the Dayton. I want the 60 spoke painted.

Good choice.  Looks stock and is stronger than the chrome.
> 
> I have had people tell me that the Daytons are superior to the 
> Dunlop,

Absolutely.

>but the were not able to tell me why; 

The Daytons are made with stronger materials and are strung more tightly.

>I have had people tell 
> me there is no difference in quality between the two.

They are misinformed.

> I can get a much better deal on the Dunlops than I can on the Daytons.

False economy.

Dunlop instructions:
"True the wheels when you get them and again at 100 miles."

Dayton instructions:
"These wheels should never need truing."

OK, where are you going to take them to get them trued?
How much is it going to cost?

This is one time to buy American, not Indian.


--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 10 22:43:22 2008
From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 21:43:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2 Hardtop Headliner
Message-ID: <BLU147-W37C9BD6F2D14DEA45D944FDD710@phx.gbl>

Hi All - I am getting ready to put a new headliner in the hardtop for my TR2.
Does anyone have any pictures, or know of a source, of an installed headliner?
I would like to stay as close to original as possible; although, I may put
some thin foam in to deaden the sound.  I'm especially curious about the edge
over the windshield and under the rear window.

Thanks in advance.  I will post some pictures of the finished product.

David Gunn
TS3388L
1954 TR2
Chico, CA

_________________________________________________________________
Get Windows Live and get whatever you need, wherever you are.  Start here.
http://www.windowslive.com/default.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Home_082008

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Aug 10 22:46:21 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 04:46:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
Message-ID: <081120080446.6277.489FC41D0001371E0000188522155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
> It's my understanding that the major difference between the two is the
> spokes. The Dunlop's are chrome plated, while the Dayton's are straight
> stainless. 

Yes.  Stainless spokes are better than chromed steel due to hydrogen embrittlement.

Also:  A Dayton engineer told me that the painted steel wheels are both stronger and stiffer than the chrome.  The threads on the stainless can't be torqued as tight.  


--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Aug 11 02:27:43 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 09:27:43 +0100
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
References: <c2c.3f117e24.35cfb5fb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00fb01c8fb8c$2114bea0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Don't doubt that it *could* be done but chassis rails and engine backplate issues might preclude a 
conversion. As for the backplate, I can't find anything in my old Vanguard stuff that says automatic 
was an option. ISTR that the Vanguard Vignale 4 cyl from 1959 onwards *might* have had it, but can't 
find anything to say it did.
However, for someone sufficiently determined and with enough money to throw at the problem, it 
shouldn't be too impossible to achieve?

Jonmac 

From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 11 05:35:26 2008
From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 04:35:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] steering rack & guages
Message-ID: <632240.38298.qm@web37603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Many thanks to all that replied to my questions about the excess play in my steering rack and getting my speedo & tach corrected.  
  There might be enough play in the steering column to allow some of this, but it didn't seem to start until I had the new rack installed.   I will have to dig a little deeper I guess.  Thanks again.
Bryan

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Aug 11 05:35:52 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 07:35:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
Message-ID: <c1b.3aefd8e3.35d17e18@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/10/2008 11:39:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
pethier at comcast.net writes:

The  Daytons are made with stronger materials and are strung more  tightly.




. . . and they are round.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 11 07:57:08 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 06:57:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
In-Reply-To: <00fb01c8fb8c$2114bea0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <20080811135709.BZIV9085.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> However, for someone sufficiently determined and with enough 
> money to throw at the problem, it shouldn't be too impossible 
> to achieve?

Of course anything is possible under those conditions.  As proof of that,
there are several TR3s running around with automatics and V8 engines ...

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Aug 11 08:06:40 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 14:06:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] automatic trans for TR3 ?
Message-ID: <081120081406.21522.48A047700000D6660000541222155863949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> > However, for someone sufficiently determined and with enough 
> > money to throw at the problem, it shouldn't be too impossible 
> > to achieve?
> 
> Of course anything is possible under those conditions.  As proof of that,
> there are several TR3s running around with automatics and V8 engines ...> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

Exactly.  Though if someone put a gun to my head and told me I needed to construct an automatic-tramsmission TR3, I'd probably go with some sort of twin-cam four.  One could probably locate a wrecked autotrans Miata.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 11 08:24:40 2008
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 07:24:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 will not idle when hot
Message-ID: <862940.83623.qm@web56213.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Hi all,
I have been having a fairly constant problem with my 74 TR6. The car
starts from cold well and runs great but once it is fully warm it does not
like to idle. If I pull up to a stop light after the car is fully warmed up,
the idle will slowly drop and the car will stall. It seems to be worse after I
stop for a short period of time and then begin driving again.  I am not sure
if it is fuel or electrical. It is running stock carbs and a 20 year old Lucas
Sports Coil. I also recently added one of the carb heat shields which seemed
to have no effect. It does have electronic ignition. The carbs were rebuilt 15
+years ago and I have not touched them since. In every other way the car runs
great. I would love to send the carbs off of be completely rebuilt and
polished by Paltech and hope to do that over the winter,  but would like to
see if the list thinks this may be related to something else that I can try to
fix.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Robert
Robert Rudolphi 
74 TR6

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 11 09:15:11 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 11:15:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
References: <p06240800c4c4ecf2d139@[192.168.123.159]>
Message-ID: <008b01c8fbc5$0caa5e00$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

Never a problem with the Daytons.

And, wasn't it the vendor of the Dunlops that suggested truing, not his 
competitors?

Ed Woods 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug 11 10:36:31 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 12:36:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] NATC 2008
Message-ID: <d34.32d471ba.35d1c48f@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/10/2008 10:29:32 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pethier at comcast.net writes: 
> >Watching Marty's reaction upon seeing his time on his second (third 
> actually) 
> >FTD winning autocross run: Priceless.
> 
> So the smaller-frame car agrees with him!
> 
As much as the TR6 did.  He was very competative in that one, too.  But the 
Spitfire is the result of a crash course (pardon the pun) and not as well 
sorted as the TR6 was.

Much of it is good driving.

Dave   

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Aug 11 11:08:31 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 13:08:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 CUSTOM HOT ROD PLUG WIRE HOLDER
Message-ID: <027601c8fbd4$e2eeabb0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
I needed a backup set of wires and distributor cap.  Although those items
maybe half rotten in this particular ebay item, I went ahead and purchased it.
Of course, the main question is why the metal tubes?  (if need be, i hope i
can get the wires out!)

SHOWN AT:
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=360062695
549&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=023>

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 841 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 11 11:29:45 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 10:29:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge Capillary Tube
In-Reply-To: <000501c8fb3b$606e1b10$caaa0018@Scott>
References: <000501c8fb3b$606e1b10$caaa0018@Scott>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808111029h3ae9b30dg829b41511be737cc@mail.gmail.com>

I just clipped the excess off after the strap was all done up.

Under the clip I used friction tape, might be called hockey stick tape in PA.

http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Capillary%20Tube.JPG

Geo

On 8/10/08, Scott Suhring <suhringtr36 at comcast.net> wrote:
> What is the proper way to secure the temp gauge capillary tube to the gas
> line? I have the aluminum "clips" and wrote notes when I disassembled them,
> but just cannot seem to get a tight fit. Also, it seems like the clip has
> about 6 inches of excess if you wrap the strip around the tube and pipe. Do
> you cut off the excess?  In some pictures, it looks like there is a piece of
> rubber hose under the clip, but the parts manual or catalogs do not show
> this. Lastly, is this a secure fit with the clips or more to just hold the
> tube relatively close to the pipe?  Any insight on how to do this properly
> is greatly appreciated.
>
> Scott Suhring
> Mechanicsburg, PA
> '70 TR6
> '59 TR3
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as ahwahnee18 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 11 11:44:39 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 10:44:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 CUSTOM HOT ROD PLUG WIRE HOLDER
In-Reply-To: <027601c8fbd4$e2eeabb0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <027601c8fbd4$e2eeabb0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808111044l38f09a87ta708ae10fd2324ea@mail.gmail.com>

Interesting item -- the metal tubes are likely homemade in an effort
to neatly arrange the leads.  I don't know that igntion wires need
such protection and if they are at all prone to leakage having a
grounded metal tube around them would make things worse I think.

I would replace the wires as a matter of course.  My preference is to
get a 'universal' copper core kit for an 8-cylinder engine.
Inexpensive and comes with enough wire and connectors to make many
sets.

On 8/11/08, dorpaul <dorpaul at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> List,
> I needed a backup set of wires and distributor cap.  Although those items
> maybe half rotten in this particular ebay item, I went ahead and purchased
> it.
> Of course, the main question is why the metal tubes?  (if need be, i hope i
> can get the wires out!)
>
> SHOWN AT:
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=360062695
> 549&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=023>
>
> Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3
>
> --
> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
> It has removed 841 spam emails to date.
> Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
> Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as ahwahnee18 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Mon Aug 11 12:49:52 2008
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 14:49:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Automatic Trans for a TR3
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1218477601.3664.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF140F3E7C.2ADB77A6-ON852574A2.0066B823-852574A2.0067758C@gsk.com>

From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>

> However, for someone sufficiently determined and with enough 
> money to throw at the problem, it shouldn't be too impossible 
> to achieve?

Of course anything is possible under those conditions.  As proof of that,
there are several TR3s running around with automatics and V8 engines ...

...and here are a few such examples: 
http://www.britishv8.org/Photos-Triumph-Conversions.htm

Brian

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Aug 11 12:57:39 2008
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 11:57:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
Message-ID: <810641.79252.qm@web83310.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi Alex,
     I bought a used set on MOSS Dunlops (made in India) from a lister. The
wheels were low miles and still had the stickers on them. I put them on used
apparently good hubs. Everything was great at first, but within 20,000 miles
the wheels were out of round and clunking on the hubs. I also broke two
spokes.
     I recently bought some Dayton SS wire wheels from British Wire Wheel in
Fresno. They  came with Vredestein tires properly mounted and balanced. I love
the package. It was pricey, but you get what you pay for. No complaints with
how it all turned out. I also mounted them on new hubs using Copaslip
antisieze as they recommended. No tubes were needed. This was definitely the
way to go for me.
    Good Luck,

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA
    

Original Message
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 15:19:03 -0400
From: Alexander Delis <ols at bcdef.net>
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <p06240800c4c4ecf2d139@[192.168.123.159]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

Hello all.

I am thinking about getting a new set of wire wheels to replace the
old and tired ones on my TR3.

The two player are the Dunlop and the Dayton. I want the 60 spoke painted.

I have had people tell me that the Daytons are superior to the
Dunlop, but the were not able to tell me why; I have had people tell
me there is no difference in quality between the two.

I can get a much better deal on the Dunlops than I can on the Daytons.

What is the consensus of the list?

Thanks

Alex
--

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Aug 11 15:01:53 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 15:01:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1218477601.3664.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1218477601.3664.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4309C3E0-2A06-4AD2-BA4E-52135266A264@telus.net>

I don't know about the current situation back back in the day, the  
local dealer used to strip the WWs off all new jags and send them to  
the local Motorcycle shop for truing before delivery.  I don't  
believe they bothered for the TRs and MGs.



On 11-Aug-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
> Date: August 11, 2008 9:15:11 AM MDT (CA)
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>, "Alexander Delis" <ols at bcdef.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
>
>
> Never a problem with the Daytons.
>
> And, wasn't it the vendor of the Dunlops that suggested truing, not  
> his competitors?
>
> Ed Woods

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Mon Aug 11 15:26:54 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 17:26:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
Message-ID: <ce7.33606451.35d2089e@aol.com>

The wire wheels that came with my 4A were quite rusty and generally nasty.  
Being an originality freak, I sent the four wheels to the factory in Dayton, 
Ohio.  They replaced all of the spokes, the center hub and painted.  So all that 
is original is the rim but over the last ten years I remain very pleased with 
the looks, durability and "roundness".  Seem to remember that the price was 
about 20% less than Roadster Factory was selling for at that time.

Pricier for sure but if I had to do it again, I would get the "package" deal 
with tires mounted and properly balanced ready for installation.  The typical 
knuckle draging, tatto covered yahoos at the corner tire store have no idea 
how to balance wire wheels.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana


**************
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in 
your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.
      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 11 17:34:30 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 16:34:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Weird J-type OD symptoms
Message-ID: <C92FC813726E4D108E4F9DE18B9A21C7@jdnet.deere.com>

The J-type on my Stag has been working great, but has just recently
developed some odd symptoms.  The most telling version I think : Was fine
for perhaps 20 minutes of stop-n-go surface street driving (with OD switch
off).  But after maybe 5 miles at freeway speeds (switch still off), it
started trying to engage.  Not firmly as usual, but like pressure was slowly
building to almost enough to shift.  

When I first felt the drag on the motor, I let off the throttle and the
engine rpm dropped back to OD levels.  Stepped on the gas again and could
feel the OD clutch slip, so I flipped the switch on (which caused it to
engage firmly).  But then when I got off the freeway, it stayed engaged
and/or partly engaged even in 1st and 2nd gear and with the switch turned
back off.

Going over how this thing works in my head, it seems to me that the solenoid
must be leaking fluid into the dashpot that controls the relief valve.
Could be the valve head (inside the solenoid) has come loose, or perhaps the
return spring inside is broken, maybe even the plug in the end has fallen
out; but has to be inside the solenoid.  Even a leaking O-ring on the
outside wouldn't do it, because that would still leave the dashpot passage
open to the drain.

I originally thought it might be the dashpot hanging up (since the first
symptoms I noticed were that it would not disengage when it should), but
this morning's experiment seems to disprove that theory (as it was firmly in
direct drive then shifted all on it's own).

Has anyone else seen this problem, or have alternate theories about the
solution?  If memory serves, I have to drop the rear motor mount to unscrew
the solenoid, so I'll probably tackle that tomorrow.

PS, another theory : If the 'idle' pressure (normally about 20 psi) was too
high, could that blow the solenoid valve off it's seat and cause these
symptoms?  I shimmed it up to about 30 psi when I had the unit apart, which
perhaps was a bad idea (trying to get it to shift faster).

-- Randall

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Mon Aug 11 16:35:32 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 16:35:32
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
In-Reply-To: <ce7.33606451.35d2089e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20080811163532.18cfab0a@pop.west.cox.net>

For what its worth -
I put Dunlop chrome wire wheels on my GT6, probably 20 years ago when I got
it.  At that time Dayton didn't offer them for the Spitfire/Gt6 (different
hubs than all others).  Bought them from TRF,I checked the spokes when I
got them, all were tight and rang true - been driving around all this time
and never had any trouble with them - check them every now and then, but
only an occasional tightening of a spoke or two, and I haven't really had
to do that for many years now - - They still look great, and run true -
Had they offered Dayton, I probably would have got them, simply because
that are better - but I didn't have that option then -
Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San Diego)

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Mon Aug 11 18:37:14 2008
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 20:37:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] GT6 carbs?
Message-ID: <fac10b170808111737j7afb04c0u2b774d06a7238cb5@mail.gmail.com>

A neighbour has a 70 GT6 Mk II engine in a Spit, and does not know what the
correct carbs should be. He has Strombergs on there now and would prefer
SUs.
He says the head will receive the same manifold as a TR6, if that helps.
Anyway I'm asking on his behalf as he does not have access to the internet;
I don't know anything about GT6s, except I'd like one.
Part b) to the question - anyone got a decent set they would be willing to
part with?
Thanks,
Jim

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 11 19:13:07 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 20:13:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] off topic, but what car is this???
References: <862940.83623.qm@web56213.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000801c8fc1a$95bc6440$6415a8c0@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc1/

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Aug 11 19:48:32 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 19:48:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] off topic, but what car is this???
In-Reply-To: <000801c8fc1a$95bc6440$6415a8c0@garage.local>
References: <862940.83623.qm@web56213.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<000801c8fc1a$95bc6440$6415a8c0@garage.local>
Message-ID: <003001c8fc1d$882c12a0$6501a8c0@sniffer>

That's the new retro-look Ford Thunderbird... Or, maybe a Hillman?
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Oliver
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 7:13 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] off topic, but what car is this???

http://www.ranteer.com/misc1/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
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4:59 PM

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Mon Aug 11 19:54:58 2008
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 21:54:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] off topic, but what car is this???
Message-ID: <cfc.3dccb26b.35d24772@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/11/08 9:28:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

<< http://www.ranteer.com/misc1/ >>

It's a Japanese retro car built in the past 15 years by Nissan and called "
Figaro ".

Harold
**************
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your
budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.

(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017
 )

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Aug 11 20:38:22 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 20:38:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 will not idle when hot
References: <862940.83623.qm@web56213.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003101c8fc24$7dc40640$9d63b043@rolofson>

I'll second what Stan and Dale have already pointed out about the 74 emission
system/spaghetti western of tubing.  1) it is a potential site of vacuum leaks
and 2) it does matter that its the original setup with ALL the tubing...the
carbs have a way of knowing if you're cheating.  Had 74 carbs originally
before I pulled some 71s from my parts car.  The 74s wouldn't work on the
parts car until every piece of tubing was connected...then it ran great.  Look
in the back of a Bentley to see the connections and flow of things.

Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: robert rudolphi
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 8:24 AM
  Subject: [TR] TR6 will not idle when hot


  Hi all,
  I have been having a fairly constant problem with my 74 TR6. The car
  starts from cold well and runs great but once it is fully warm it does not
  like to idle. If I pull up to a stop light after the car is fully warmed
up,
  the idle will slowly drop and the car will stall. It seems to be worse after
I
  stop for a short period of time and then begin driving again.  I am not
sure
  if it is fuel or electrical. It is running stock carbs and a 20 year old
Lucas
  Sports Coil. I also recently added one of the carb heat shields which
seemed
  to have no effect. It does have electronic ignition. The carbs were rebuilt
15
  +years ago and I have not touched them since. In every other way the car
runs
  great. I would love to send the carbs off of be completely rebuilt and
  polished by Paltech and hope to do that over the winter,  but would like to
  see if the list thinks this may be related to something else that I can try
to
  fix.
  Thanks in advance for any assistance.
  Robert
  Robert Rudolphi
  74 TR6
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From AA00727 at aol.com  Mon Aug 11 21:07:57 2008
From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 23:07:57 EDT
Subject: [TR] Tires for a TR3?
Message-ID: <d09.3f962055.35d2588d@aol.com>

It's time for me to pick a tire brand / size for my '61 TR3. I have  
Panasport 15" X 5" wheels and want to go with a wider than original tire.  Any advice 
on tires you other TR3 drivers are using would be appreciated! I hope  to stay 
close to the original diameter to keep the speedo more accurate but I'd  be 
able to have it re calibrated if required. What's the widest size that works?  
What brands have you had a good experience with? I don't plan on racking up a  
lot of miles so grip is a higher priority than long life.
 Thanks!
 Gary  




**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Aug 11 21:49:46 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 23:49:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] GT6 carbs?
In-Reply-To: <fac10b170808111737j7afb04c0u2b774d06a7238cb5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <48A0D01A.19427.2F0E8B96@localhost>

On 11 Aug 2008 at 20:37, Jim Wallace wrote:

> A neighbour has a 70 GT6 Mk II engine in a Spit, and does not know what the
> correct carbs should be. He has Strombergs on there now and would prefer
> SUs.
> He says the head will receive the same manifold as a TR6, if that helps.

What it "should be" and what is best aren't necessarily the same!  I 
believe the GT6 came with Z-S at least in 1970.  Mine has SUs, a pair 
of HS4s which a PPO installed.  It took me some time to get them 
tuned in however.  Had to swap springs and needles because the carbs 
came from an MGB and couldn't handle the increased airflow.  A few 
other installation details have to be handled too.



-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From vlm at te-motorworks.com  Tue Aug 12 00:20:21 2008
From: vlm at te-motorworks.com (Vin Marshall)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 02:20:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] URL for cross country trip pictures
Message-ID: <B27EADD0-3788-485E-839C-59A8D664A5DC@te-motorworks.com>

Following up on my message from last week (or so), I'm posting the  
URL for the pictures I'll be posting from the road for anyone who may  
be interested.

They'll show up in my Flickr photostream, which is here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/92094538 at N00/

We're rolling out of town early tomorrow morning and hope to be in  
Detroit tomorrow night.

Thanks very much to all of the listers who replied with suggestions  
for things to do and see.  Hopefully we'll be meeting up with some of  
your along the way.

-vin

--
New TE Shirts at http://telabs.spreadshirt.com

TE Motorworks, Inc.
Post Industrial Laboratory
215-426-1447

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Tue Aug 12 05:33:23 2008
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 07:33:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] URL for cross country trip pictures
In-Reply-To: <B27EADD0-3788-485E-839C-59A8D664A5DC@te-motorworks.com>
References: <B27EADD0-3788-485E-839C-59A8D664A5DC@te-motorworks.com>
Message-ID: <90C65C1F-EFD6-4E0B-A740-E655B3E072AF@blakedischer.com>

Hi Vin,  if you get near Detroit tonight (Tuesday), our club, the  
Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club has its monthly member meeting in Royal  
Oak, Michigan.

It's at the Canadian Legion: 1005 E 11 Mile Rd, Royal Oak, MI  
48067-1969 and starts at 8pm.  We'd love to have you visit, feel free  
to call me.

Cheers,
Blake Discher
ph. 313-259-4460



On Aug 12, 2008, at 2:20 AM, Vin Marshall wrote:

> Following up on my message from last week (or so), I'm posting the
> URL for the pictures I'll be posting from the road for anyone who may
> be interested.
>
> They'll show up in my Flickr photostream, which is here:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/92094538 at N00/
>
> We're rolling out of town early tomorrow morning and hope to be in
> Detroit tomorrow night.

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 12 07:25:20 2008
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 06:25:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] WTB: Late TR6 Head
Message-ID: <163627.19467.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

List Members-
If you have a serviceable late TR6 head taking up space in your
garage, I am interested in buying it.  My '75 has an unrepariable break in the
water jacket area behind the water pump housing so I need to find it a
replacement head.
Please email me off-list  triumph74tr6(AT)yahoo.com
Thanks,

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Tue Aug 12 08:33:08 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 10:33:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Rota RB wheels
References: <009501c8f9ba$448f3b90$d44a9e18@alan>
Message-ID: <006a01c8fc88$574cc560$0300a8c0@Desktop>

don't go with the 17" ...you have no suspension to with and you will brake 
wheels or suspension parts
Craig

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 8:52 PM
Subject: [6pack] Rota RB wheels


> Is anyone using Rota RB wheels on a TR6.
>
> They are similar  to Panasports. They come in 16 an 17 inch.
>
> http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/74tr6/ac60_11.jpg
>
> I wanted to make sure of the clearence.
>
> Thanks
>
> Al
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net 

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Aug 12 09:37:00 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:37:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Rota RB wheels
In-Reply-To: <006a01c8fc88$574cc560$0300a8c0@Desktop>
References: <009501c8f9ba$448f3b90$d44a9e18@alan>
	<006a01c8fc88$574cc560$0300a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0808121136130.7921@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 12 Aug 2008, Craig wrote:

> don't go with the 17" ...you have no suspension to with and you will brake
> wheels or suspension parts
> Craig

???????????????????????????????????

Huh?

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From AA00727 at aol.com  Tue Aug 12 09:50:49 2008
From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:50:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 tire sizes?
Message-ID: <ce7.3379fffe.35d30b59@aol.com>

Sorry folks! I had my rim size wrong. My Panasports are 5.5x15. 
 I had one reply saying 195/65 would work on a 5.5" rim. Anyone else  using 
that combination?
 I really would appreciate any advice as I must choose a tire real  soon. 
 Something that had not occurred to me before- do radials work out OK  on the 
TR3? I seem to remember that radials are not necessarily a good thing on  an 
old car designed when bias ply tires were the only option.
 I think a 'red line" sidewall would give a nice '60's look. 
 Thanks,
 Gary



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Aug 12 10:00:34 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 12:00:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Rota RB wheels
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0808121136130.7921@isis.mit.edu>
References: <009501c8f9ba$448f3b90$d44a9e18@alan>
	<006a01c8fc88$574cc560$0300a8c0@Desktop>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0808121136130.7921@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0808121146020.7921@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 12 Aug 2008, Robert Lang wrote:

> On Tue, 12 Aug 2008, Craig wrote:
>
>> don't go with the 17" ...you have no suspension to with and you will brake
>> wheels or suspension parts
>> Craig
>
> ???????????????????????????????????
>
> Huh?

I don't usually answer my own questions (except late at night in the 
garage... when I'm by myself), but Craig just dropped me a line on this 
one.

According to Craig, the amount of suspension travel on the TR6 is limited 
(full droop to full bump) and that with the combo of short suspension 
travel and small sidewalls on the wheels, there's a good chance that you 
can bottom the suspension on pot holes and the like and that when the 
supsension bottoms you either break a wheel or the suspension mounts will 
bend/break.

If you have a stock-ish suspension, there's about 6 inches of travel. If 
you have things lowered, you loose bump travel (typically) so this is 
where you're most likely going to get into trouble. But the suspension 
bottoming would happen regardless of the wheel size...

Bottom line - buy a spare wheel or get something that you can get 
replacements of/when you break one (or the tire monkey breaks one, not 
that I've ever seen that!)

Thanks for the clarification, Craig!

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 12 10:20:32 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 09:20:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 tire sizes?
In-Reply-To: <ce7.3379fffe.35d30b59@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080812162031.YASV13299.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Sorry folks! I had my rim size wrong. My Panasports are 5.5x15. 
>  I had one reply saying 195/65 would work on a 5.5" rim. 
> Anyone else  using that combination?

I ran 185/65 for awhile, which worked out fine.  But don't forget they won't
fit in the spare tire well.  The 185/65 are just a tad shorter (854
turns/mile) than the original radials (835), while the 195/65 are closer
(833).  But I liked getting the car closer to the ground, and my speedo read
low anyway, so I went with the shorter tires.

I eventually wound up with Bridgestone Potenzas in 205/55 mounted on 5.5"
wheels on the ground, and a 4.5" original rim with a T125 for a spare tire.
But there were a lot of other changes and compromises (even after several
rounds of tweaking, they still rubbed the fenders a little sometimes) so I
wouldn't recommend them to anyone else.

>  Something that had not occurred to me before- do radials 
> work out OK  on the TR3? I seem to remember that radials are 
> not necessarily a good thing on  an old car designed when 
> bias ply tires were the only option.

TR3s were available new with radials.  It's possible there is a bit more
wander with radials than with bias-ply, but I've never found it bothersome.

>  I think a 'red line" sidewall would give a nice '60's look. 

There are several places that will add lines in your choice of color.

Randall

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 12 10:28:38 2008
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 09:28:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] WTB: Late TR6 Head
Message-ID: <133753.49794.qm@web37508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Craig-
I can't get it welded up because the break is on the bolt hole boss in
the jacket.  It is completely shattered.  A DPO overtightened or used a too
long bolt.  I consulted a cylinder head repair shop that has 50+ years
experience.  They said the could repair it, but couldn't guarantee the repair,
or even recommend it.  I'm not willing to risk the $$$ on an iffy repair.  I
don't enjoy changing cylinder heads any more than necessary.  :-)
Chad in
Tulsa.



----- Original Message ----
From: Craig <wensley_Tr at comcast.net>
To:
Chad <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 8:54:30 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] WTB: Late TR6 Head

Why can you get it welded up? I think
its called stitching
Craig
let me know


----- Original Message ----- 
From:
"Chad" <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday,
August 12, 2008 9:25 AM
Subject: [TR] WTB: Late TR6 Head


> List Members-
>
If you have a serviceable late TR6 head taking up space in your
> garage, I am
interested in buying it.  My '75 has an unrepariable break in 
> the
> water
jacket area behind the water pump housing so I need to find it a
> replacement
head.
> Please email me off-list  triumph74tr6(AT)yahoo.com
> Thanks,
>
_______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as
wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue Aug 12 11:21:27 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:21:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] off topic, but what car is this???
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21915.1218547503.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21915.1218547503.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F1862C15-2609-4C97-A6E0-8807A56BEC19@telus.net>

1991 (one year only) Nissan Figaro, 998cc turbocharged, automatic,  
full leather, 6 disk CD player/stereo, fully retractible roof  
(similar to old Nash convertibles). Came in three colours. Was such a  
hit that the original 20,000 run was expanded.

From tr6parts at charter.net  Tue Aug 12 11:49:14 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 13:49:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Rota RB wheels
References: <009501c8f9ba$448f3b90$d44a9e18@alan><006a01c8fc88$574cc560$0300a8c0@Desktop><Pine.LNX.4.62L.0808121136130.7921@isis.mit.edu>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0808121146020.7921@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <004601c8fca3$bc8a7b00$d44a9e18@alan>

I have seen 17" work on a TR6.
It was a 17" Centerline Wheel with 205/50R/17 tires.

A real bad pot hole can do in any size wheel.

al
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: "Craig" <wensley_Tr at comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Rota RB wheels


> On Tue, 12 Aug 2008, Robert Lang wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 12 Aug 2008, Craig wrote:
>>
>>> don't go with the 17" ...you have no suspension to with and you will 
>>> brake
>>> wheels or suspension parts
>>> Craig
>>
>> ???????????????????????????????????
>>
>> Huh?
>
> I don't usually answer my own questions (except late at night in the
> garage... when I'm by myself), but Craig just dropped me a line on this
> one.
>
> According to Craig, the amount of suspension travel on the TR6 is limited
> (full droop to full bump) and that with the combo of short suspension
> travel and small sidewalls on the wheels, there's a good chance that you
> can bottom the suspension on pot holes and the like and that when the
> supsension bottoms you either break a wheel or the suspension mounts will
> bend/break.
>
> If you have a stock-ish suspension, there's about 6 inches of travel. If
> you have things lowered, you loose bump travel (typically) so this is
> where you're most likely going to get into trouble. But the suspension
> bottoming would happen regardless of the wheel size...
>
> Bottom line - buy a spare wheel or get something that you can get
> replacements of/when you break one (or the tire monkey breaks one, not
> that I've ever seen that!)
>
> Thanks for the clarification, Craig!
>
> c ya,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.0/1604 - Release Date: 8/11/2008 
> 5:50 AM

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Tue Aug 12 13:02:04 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 15:02:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Radiator fan motor - rebuild?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1218564001.28036.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF85A6DCC0.EB18DE2D-ON852574A3.00686348-852574A3.00689035@exxonmobil.com>

 Coming back from NATC on Saturday in my 80 Spitfire I could hear a slight  
 squealing sound from time to time. When I got home I found that it is the  
 radiator fan motor that is making the noise, a dry bushing type of noise.  
 Can the fan motor be rebuilt? Do any of the vendors sell parts/bushings to 
 rebuild the fan motor? If not, are new ones available?                     
                                                                            
 Mark                                                                       
 80 Spitfire 1500                                                           
 Corunna, ON                                                                

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Tue Aug 12 14:02:56 2008
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 13:02:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 U-Joint Needs Replacement
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0808121302t786d5974nf57e935047222d47@mail.gmail.com>

I need to replace my rear U-Joint (explains the vibrations I've been feeling
the last week). I was going to have a 4 wheel alignment done but they said
to bring it back after I fixed the U-Joint issue that they discovered. They
test drove the car and then put it on the rack and aftershowing me the
U-Joint they did a quick inspection to see if anything else obvious needed
replacement but they didn't see anything . Besides replacing the U-Joints
are there any related projects I should think about doing at the same time
without going nuts? The car is just about to turn 49,000 miles. I replaced
the rear trailing arm bushings and shocks last year.

How involved is replacing the U-Joints, I've never done this and I'm not
real experienced on working on cars? Anyone besides the big three to look at
purchasing them from?

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798

From smacsjunk at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 12 14:05:30 2008
From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 15:05:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] GT6 carbs?
In-Reply-To: <48A0D01A.19427.2F0E8B96@localhost>
References: <fac10b170808111737j7afb04c0u2b774d06a7238cb5@mail.gmail.com>
	<48A0D01A.19427.2F0E8B96@localhost>
Message-ID: <BAY139-W1985236E76E34BD5AEED5CBA700@phx.gbl>

All GT6 models came equipped with Zenith-Stromberg CD150 carbs (1.5"). Thre's
been lengthly, but as far as I can tell inconclusive debate regarding whether
or not there is any benefit switching to SU HS4s (equivalent size to CD150).
As I read it, maintenance/tuning "MAY" be slightly easier, performance change
will be nil. I assume the reason that he is going to a TR6 manifold is to be
abe to fit 1 3/4 carbs (CD175 or HS6). If so, he should be aware that there
are several flavours of TR6 manifold and I don't think any of them will fit
under a GT6 bonnet without the carbs interfereing, especially HS6s. It will be
necessary to add a blister (a la TR4/250) or hood scoop to provide clearance.
The long runner manifolds may also interfere with the wheel arches. It is
possible to get adapters or, with a little dilligent fill welding, grinding,
drilling and tapping, modify the GT6 manifold to match HS6s and still (barely)
fit under the hood. Going to 1 3/4 carbs is a non-trivial modification and
only worth the effort if all the co-dependant mods are also made: porting,
chamber cleanup, valve work, tubular exhaust, uprated cam, balancing, etc. If
the complete set of upgrades are not done, the performance increase will be
negligable. cheersScott> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 20:37:14 -0400> Subject: [TR]
GT6 carbs?> > A neighbour has a 70 GT6 Mk II engine in a Spit, and does not
know what the> correct carbs should be. He has Strombergs on there now and
would prefer> SUs. He says the head will receive the same manifold as a TR6,
if that helps.>... Thanks,> Jim>
_______________________________________________>
_________________________________________________________________
If you like crossword puzzles, then you'll love Flexicon, a game which
combines four overlapping crossword puzzles into one!
http://g.msn.ca/ca55/208

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Tue Aug 12 14:31:11 2008
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:31:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 tire sizes?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1218564001.28036.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1218564001.28036.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8B6B6BB1-3B44-4F1D-9300-893E8AC5D280@mgcarclub.com>

I'm using 205/65 on 6x15 on a TR4. 205/65 was the closest diameter  
match to 165R15 Michelin X.

Allen Hess

> Sorry folks! I had my rim size wrong. My Panasports are 5.5x15.
>  I had one reply saying 195/65 would work on a 5.5" rim. Anyone  
> else  using
> that combination?

From mrv8q at aim.com  Tue Aug 12 19:08:16 2008
From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 21:08:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 U-Joint Needs Replacement
In-Reply-To: <df0e1f1e0808121302t786d5974nf57e935047222d47@mail.gmail.com>
References: <df0e1f1e0808121302t786d5974nf57e935047222d47@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CACAF833A5205A-1404-3A20@FWM-M13.sysops.aol.com>

How involved is replacing the U-Joints, I've never done this and I'm not
real experienced on working on cars? Anyone besides the big three to look at
purchasing them from?

Marty, I just replaced the 4 u-joints on my '74... not too difficult of a job. 


I'd recommend pulling the shoes, makes the job easier; I'd also check the condition/

tightness of the 6 trailing arm studs, but not too tight!. I wound up getting Hardy-Spicer

u-joints from TRF on sale, and I had a local drive-line shop put them on the half-shafts...

what do I know about installing them? They charged a nominal fee; well worth it in my 

estimation. You should have the Bentley manual to walk you thru this. Get new boot covers

and gaiters as well.




Now, as far as the u-joints on the driveshaft .....




Best, Kevin Browne

From jwalker at mainet.com  Tue Aug 12 20:50:57 2008
From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 22:50:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Need single 87mm piston/liner set
Message-ID: <s8a213e7.077@smtp.mainet.com>

I am in the process of overhauling my TR-3B engine, which has been sitting for
25 yrs. I need one 87 mm piston/liner to replace the the one that is heavily
rusted. If anyone has a spare lying around that they would like to get ride
of, pls reply direct.

John Walker
TR-3B TS 69368 TF

From llst at shaw.ca  Tue Aug 12 23:12:51 2008
From: llst at shaw.ca (LT)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 22:12:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 H6 jet lever
Message-ID: <48A26D53.8070407@shaw.ca>

I have been looking at the linkage on the H6 carbs of my 57 TR3 and 
noticed that there is a lot of worn pieces that need to be replaced.
It is easy to identify most of the worn parts but I can not tell for 
sure how bad the jet lever has worn.
The jet lever is the L shaped brass piece that connects to the jet and 
on the front carb, the choke cable connects to a bracket on it.
My question is how large should the  hole be at the  base of the L where 
it connects to the choke cable bracket?
The pin at this location is about 1/8 inch in diameter however the hole 
in the lever is about 3/8 inch.
Is the hole suppose to be larger or has this just worn itself away? The 
rear carb bracket is just as loose as the front one.
As most of the openings appear to be oversized due to wear, I was 
thinking of filling them in and drilling them out to the correct size.

Larry

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 12 23:21:52 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 22:21:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 H6 jet lever
In-Reply-To: <48A26D53.8070407@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <20080813052152.KOVI13299.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> The pin at this location is about 1/8 inch in diameter 
> however the hole in the lever is about 3/8 inch.

I didn't bother measuring one, but that sounds about right.  It's supposed
to be hugely loose, the lost motion allows the fast idle cam to raise the
idle rpm before the lever starts to pull the jet down.

> Is the hole suppose to be larger or has this just worn itself 
> away?

If it is worn, the hole will no longer be round.  You'll see a notch in one
side just the size of the pin.

> As most of the openings appear to be oversized due to wear, I 
> was thinking of filling them in and drilling them out to the 
> correct size.

You'll be sorry ...

Randall

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Aug 13 06:20:25 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 08:20:25 EDT
Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 U-Joint Needs Replacement
Message-ID: <ca4.3269521e.35d42b89@aol.com>

Marty,
 
While the car is up in the air, I'd suggest checking the diff mountings and  
also checking the play in both rear wheels to be sure the rear hub bearings 
are  okay.....
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/12/2008 4:03:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
marty.tr6 at gmail.com writes:

are  there any related projects I should think about doing at the same  time
without going nuts?




**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Aug 13 08:16:14 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 14:16:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 U-Joint Needs Replacement
Message-ID: <081320081416.4647.48A2ECAE000848C50000122722147564029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

I recommend the hardy-spicer no-zerk U-joints.  They are the strongest things around.  You should be able to get them from a local parts supplier.  The clutch-and-ujoint specialist in town will know the ones.  I believe that TR6 cars use a common size.
Pack them well with grease.  The oil in the caps when you get them is just for corrosion protection on the shelf.
--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: mrv8q at aim.com
> How involved is replacing the U-Joints, I've never done this and I'm not
> real experienced on working on cars? Anyone besides the big three to look at
> purchasing them from?
> 
> Marty, I just replaced the 4 u-joints on my '74... not too difficult of a job. 
> 
> 
> I'd recommend pulling the shoes, makes the job easier; I'd also check the 
> condition/
> 
> tightness of the 6 trailing arm studs, but not too tight!. I wound up getting 
> Hardy-Spicer
> 
> u-joints from TRF on sale, and I had a local drive-line shop put them on the 
> half-shafts...
> 
> what do I know about installing them? They charged a nominal fee; well worth it 
> in my 
> 
> estimation. You should have the Bentley manual to walk you thru this. Get new 
> boot covers
> 
> and gaiters as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as far as the u-joints on the driveshaft .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best, Kevin Browne
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Aug 13 08:38:44 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 07:38:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 U-Joint Needs Replacement
References: <081320081416.4647.48A2ECAE000848C50000122722147564029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001801c8fd52$4a22cf40$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

I can't say for sure about the TR6, but I have found that the Dana Spicer
U-Joints for Spits are equally as strong as the Hardy Spicer ones and much
more readily available.

Joe.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: <mrv8q at aim.com>; <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] 74 TR6 U-Joint Needs Replacement


> I recommend the hardy-spicer no-zerk U-joints.  They are the strongest
things around.  You should be able to get them from a local parts supplier.
The clutch-and-ujoint specialist in town will know the ones.  I believe that
TR6 cars use a common size.
> Pack them well with grease.  The oil in the caps when you get them is just
for corrosion protection on the shelf.
> --
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata
C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From geo at ohio.net  Wed Aug 13 09:03:07 2008
From: geo at ohio.net (Geo)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 11:03:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] GT6 carbs?
References: <fac10b170808111737j7afb04c0u2b774d06a7238cb5@mail.gmail.com><48A0D01A.19427.2F0E8B96@localhost>
	<BAY139-W1985236E76E34BD5AEED5CBA700@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A58270BC5BB94BEDA1CBCDDF7962216B@Medina.local>

you are correct.... i have done the su swap and found the stock set up to be 
the same.... even webers don't do much unless the motor is built for the 
carbs.... change the oil pan and put in the tr6 motor....changes the whole 
issue
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "scotts junk" <smacsjunk at hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 carbs?


> All GT6 models came equipped with Zenith-Stromberg CD150 carbs (1.5"). 
> Thre's
> been lengthly, but as far as I can tell inconclusive debate regarding 
> whether
> or not there is any benefit switching to SU HS4s (equivalent size to 
> CD150).
> As I read it, maintenance/tuning "MAY" be slightly easier, performance 
> change
> will be nil. I assume the reason that he is going to a TR6 manifold is to 
> be
> abe to fit 1 3/4 carbs (CD175 or HS6). If so, he should be aware that 
> there
> are several flavours of TR6 manifold and I don't think any of them will 
> fit
> under a GT6 bonnet without the carbs interfereing, especially HS6s. It 
> will be
> necessary to add a blister (a la TR4/250) or hood scoop to provide 
> clearance.
> The long runner manifolds may also interfere with the wheel arches. It is
> possible to get adapters or, with a little dilligent fill welding, 
> grinding,
> drilling and tapping, modify the GT6 manifold to match HS6s and still 
> (barely)
> fit under the hood. Going to 1 3/4 carbs is a non-trivial modification and
> only worth the effort if all the co-dependant mods are also made: porting,
> chamber cleanup, valve work, tubular exhaust, uprated cam, balancing, etc. 
> If
> the complete set of upgrades are not done, the performance increase will 
> be
> negligable. cheersScott> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 20:37:14 -0400> Subject: 
> [TR]
> GT6 carbs?> > A neighbour has a 70 GT6 Mk II engine in a Spit, and does 
> not
> know what the> correct carbs should be. He has Strombergs on there now and
> would prefer> SUs. He says the head will receive the same manifold as a 
> TR6,
> if that helps.>... Thanks,> Jim>
> _______________________________________________>
> _________________________________________________________________
> If you like crossword puzzles, then you'll love Flexicon, a game which
> combines four overlapping crossword puzzles into one!
> http://g.msn.ca/ca55/208
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as geo at ohio.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Wed Aug 13 12:50:26 2008
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 13:50:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph seat adapter kits
Message-ID: <200808131850.m7DIoRQJ361452@ns3.geneseo.net>

For everybody who ordered a kit for adapting Miata seats to the TR -- 
they shipped today! Thanks for being patient while the shops 
completed the orders.

For anybody who wants a kit, if you're going to be at Watkins Glen, I 
can deliver to you there and you will save the shipping cost.

Future orders will be shipped within two days of receipt of order.

uncle jack 

From AMfoto1 at aol.com  Wed Aug 13 13:10:38 2008
From: AMfoto1 at aol.com (AMfoto1 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 15:10:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] GT6 Carbs?
Message-ID: <cf4.35f1fc88.35d48bae@aol.com>

Hi Jim,
 
A while back at a local car show, I saw a GT6 set up with six motorcycle 
carbs. It not only looked very cool, it ran and sounded great, plus took off like 
a spanked monkey! No clearance issues, either. 
 
I didn't get a chance to talk to the owner, so I don't know for certain if 
they were the Mikuni or Keihin setup that's available from PRI in Oregon, but I 
suspect that's where they came from. www.prirace.com
 
I agree with Scott, without other engine tweaks, carb upgrades aren't going 
to make much difference. PRI does a lot of that too, and you also might want to 
get your friend Kas Kastner's tuning books that cover the GT6 motor. 
www.kaskastner.com
 
A straight SU for ZS swap without any upgrading is only about the increased 
adjustability of SUs, or possibly more available and wider selection of 
replacement and tuning parts. Otherwise, I think it's pretty much of a wash, 
performance wise. 
 
Cheers! 
 
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
 
http://www.triumphowners.com/640 
 

**************************************************
All GT6 models came equipped with Zenith-Stromberg CD150 carbs 
(1.5").....Scott> 
**************************************************
GT6 carbs?> > A neighbour has a 70 GT6 Mk II engine in a Spit, and does not
know what the> correct carbs should be. He has Strombergs on there now and
would prefer> SUs. He says the head will receive the same manifold as a TR6,
if that helps.>... Thanks,> Jim>
******************************************




**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug 13 13:40:17 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 15:40:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
In-Reply-To: <052820082322.16266.483DE9250002E15600003F8A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <48A30061.15037.379B21B9@localhost>

I've been considering refreshing the oil in my Spitfire's OD-enabled 
gearbox.  It's a rebuilt unit I got from Quantumechanics a few years 
ago.  John Esposito recommended simply a non-detergent, single 
viscosity 30 weight.

On 28 May 2008 at 23:22, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

> OD tranny oil:  Valvoline 20-50 racing oil.

As I recall, few of the tranny oil recommendations made to this list 
over the last several years have mentioned OD at all.  For example, 
Randall Y. has been a big advocate of Redline oils, if I remember 
right, but I don't recall if he has OD.  So recommendations like 
Terry's always make me wonder:

How do OD clutches work in the presence of high-performance oils, 
which is what I suppose these are?  No lube engineer, I, so I wonder 
how the clutches work in oil of any sort.  But specifically I wonder 
if these most of recommendations are meant for OD.  And of course, if 
so why does/did John E. recommend some simpler?


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Wed Aug 13 13:58:16 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 15:58:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
Message-ID: <c1a.46082f00.35d496d8@aol.com>

John Esposito of Quantum Mechanics is without doubt the best of the best for 
British drive lines.  If he recommended kangaroo urine, that's what I would 
use.  He rebuilt the O/D in the TR2 and now 20,000 miles later it is still as 
perfect as when it came out of the box.  Every inch of the 20,000 miles with 
Valvoline 30wt non detergent.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana


**************
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in 
your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.
      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Wed Aug 13 14:21:22 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 16:21:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
References: <c1a.46082f00.35d496d8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005b01c8fd82$2847d070$0300a8c0@Desktop>

What a site that would be, watching you chasing a kangaroo around
Craig

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Loumetelko at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] now lubrication recommendations


> John Esposito of Quantum Mechanics is without doubt the best of the best 
> for
> British drive lines.  If he recommended kangaroo urine, that's what I 
> would
> use.  He rebuilt the O/D in the TR2 and now 20,000 miles later it is still 
> as
> perfect as when it came out of the box.  Every inch of the 20,000 miles 
> with
> Valvoline 30wt non detergent.
>
> Lou Metelko
> Auburn, Indiana
>
>
> **************
> Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in
> your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.
>
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 
>  )
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Wed Aug 13 14:20:41 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 16:20:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
In-Reply-To: <005b01c8fd82$2847d070$0300a8c0@Desktop>
References: <c1a.46082f00.35d496d8@aol.com>
	<005b01c8fd82$2847d070$0300a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0808131320t2604a0b4q4cc445553d2e1be@mail.gmail.com>

Once you catch him, I'll grill on the barbie...and serve it up with a nice
glass of chianti...

On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 4:21 PM, Craig <wensley_Tr at comcast.net> wrote:

> What a site that would be, watching you chasing a kangaroo around
> Craig
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Loumetelko at aol.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 3:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
>
>
> > John Esposito of Quantum Mechanics is without doubt the best of the best
> > for British drive lines.  If he recommended kangaroo urine, that's what I
> > would use.  He rebuilt the O/D in the TR2 and now 20,000 miles later it
> is still
> > as perfect as when it came out of the box.  Every inch of the 20,000
> miles
> > with Valvoline 30wt non detergent.
> >
> > Lou Metelko
> > Auburn, Indiana
> >
> >
>
-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967
1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Wed Aug 13 14:33:36 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 16:33:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
References: <c1a.46082f00.35d496d8@aol.com><005b01c8fd82$2847d070$0300a8c0@Desktop>
	<a11dceec0808131320t2604a0b4q4cc445553d2e1be@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801c8fd83$dcdb45c0$0300a8c0@Desktop>

Hmm.........no beer
not good

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ted" <triumph66 at gmail.com>
To: "Craig" <wensley_Tr at comcast.net>
Cc: <Loumetelko at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] now lubrication recommendations


> Once you catch him, I'll grill on the barbie...and serve it up with a nice
> glass of chianti...
>
> On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 4:21 PM, Craig <wensley_Tr at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> What a site that would be, watching you chasing a kangaroo around
>> Craig
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <Loumetelko at aol.com>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 3:58 PM
>> Subject: Re: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
>>
>>
>> > John Esposito of Quantum Mechanics is without doubt the best of the 
>> > best
>> > for British drive lines.  If he recommended kangaroo urine, that's what 
>> > I
>> > would use.  He rebuilt the O/D in the TR2 and now 20,000 miles later it
>> is still
>> > as perfect as when it came out of the box.  Every inch of the 20,000
>> miles
>> > with Valvoline 30wt non detergent.
>> >
>> > Lou Metelko
>> > Auburn, Indiana
>> >
>> >
>>
> -- 
> T.L.L.
> 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
> www.triumphowners.com/967
> 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Wed Aug 13 15:16:23 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:16:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
In-Reply-To: <000801c8fd83$dcdb45c0$0300a8c0@Desktop>
References: <c1a.46082f00.35d496d8@aol.com>
	<005b01c8fd82$2847d070$0300a8c0@Desktop>
	<a11dceec0808131320t2604a0b4q4cc445553d2e1be@mail.gmail.com>
	<000801c8fd83$dcdb45c0$0300a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0808131416j31a2d53bl522a9e748245385a@mail.gmail.com>

Unibroue "17" would work just as well, followed by Unibroue Quelque Chose
for dessert, how's that sound...

On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 4:33 PM, Craig <wensley_Tr at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hmm.........no beer
> not good
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ted" <triumph66 at gmail.com>
> To: "Craig" <wensley_Tr at comcast.net>
> Cc: <Loumetelko at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 4:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
>
>
>  Once you catch him, I'll grill on the barbie...and serve it up with a nice
>> glass of chianti...
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 4:21 PM, Craig <wensley_Tr at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>  What a site that would be, watching you chasing a kangaroo around
>>> Craig
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: <Loumetelko at aol.com>
>>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 3:58 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
>>>
>>>
>>> > John Esposito of Quantum Mechanics is without doubt the best of the >
>>> best
>>> > for British drive lines.  If he recommended kangaroo urine, that's what
>>> > I
>>> > would use.  He rebuilt the O/D in the TR2 and now 20,000 miles later it
>>> is still as perfect as when it came out of the box.  Every inch of the
>>> 20,000
>>> miles with Valvoline 30wt non detergent.
>>> >
>>> > Lou Metelko
>>> > Auburn, Indiana
>>>
>>
-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967
1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug 13 15:17:16 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:17:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
In-Reply-To: <005b01c8fd82$2847d070$0300a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <48A3171C.13670.37F3EB66@localhost>

On 13 Aug 2008 at 16:21, Craig wrote:

> What a site that would be, watching you chasing a kangaroo around

That calls to mind a software story, possibly an urban legend but 
funny nevertheless, about the danger of code re-use.  It seems the 
Aussie army wanted some training simulations for helicopter pilots.  
So somebody thought an already-developed scatter-and-hide-behind-
rocks algorithm was exactly what kangaroos did, so they programmed it 
for the visuals.  Now pilots buzzing about in the bush country would 
often chase the kangaroos for fun, maybe even for chopper-handling 
practice.  Imagine the pilots' surprise when after the kangaroos 
scattered in the simulation, one popped back out from behind the rock 
and fired a Stinger missle at the chopper.  Maybe that kangaroo urine 
isn't such a good idea.

[ From Jurassic Park III -
"Be careful with that, it's T-rex, it scares some of the little ones 
away but it attracts one really big one with a fin."
"This is T-rex urine?  How did you get it?"
"You don't want to know." ]

As for John E., my experience wasn't quite so happy, took a long time 
and much toil to resolve.  In fairness to him, I suspect it wasn't 
his fault but that of an intern he had working on the day I stopped 
by to pick up a gearbox.  He did make it good as far as I know; I 
haven't taken the box apart to see, but if I'm right I'd rather not 
know!

I'll ask again, what oil would be good for on OD Spitfire gearbox?

Tanks,

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 13 15:26:58 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 14:26:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations (pt 1)
In-Reply-To: <48A30061.15037.379B21B9@localhost>
References: <052820082322.16266.483DE9250002E15600003F8A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
	<48A30061.15037.379B21B9@localhost>
Message-ID: <CF0F141CF2964A8D89F295A236A03981@jdnet.deere.com>

This was probably too long for the server, so here's two parts.

> For example,
> Randall Y. has been a big advocate of Redline oils, if I remember
> right, but I don't recall if he has OD.

Hmm, I wouldn't say that exactly.  I've only relatively recently tried
Redline MT-90 myself, and IIRC my last post on the subject said only that I
planned to try it based on recommendations from others (including Redline).


However, I do have OD, J-types in both Stags and A-type in the once and
future TR3.  And in the past, I've followed the recommendation of both
Herman van den Akker and Ken Gillanders (who did some tests on his own TR2
with OD) to use Valvoline 20W50 Racing oil.

> No lube engineer, I, so I wonder
> how the clutches work in oil of any sort.

I'm no lube engineer either; but the way I understand it is that oils
lubricate because their molecules slide past each other easily.  It follows
that there must be a film of oil to produce this sliding effect.  "Wet"
clutches (like the OD clutches) work by squeezing out the oil film until the
lubrication effect disappears.

> But specifically I wonder
> if these most of recommendations are meant for OD.  And of course, if
> so why does/did John E. recommend some simpler?

John gives his reasons on the web site.  I think they can be summarized as:

1) The OD manufacturer at one time specifically prohibited use of "hypoid"
oil (ie extreme pressure 'gear' oil) in the overdrive.

2) John has done his own tests and concluded that 30wt non-detergent motor
oil is the best.  

However, AFAIK, he did not test the 20W50 Valvoline Racing oil that Ken G.
tested nor the Redline MT-90; plus John's tests were done only on the bench,
not in actual driving behind a Tractor motor.  Likely they weren't even done
on a TR gearbox.  He even mentions the thrust washer problem, but fails to
acknowledge that using an "extreme pressure" oil might help alleviate it.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 13 15:29:49 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 14:29:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations (pt 2)
In-Reply-To: <48A30061.15037.379B21B9@localhost>
References: <052820082322.16266.483DE9250002E15600003F8A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
	<48A30061.15037.379B21B9@localhost>
Message-ID: <1EFF9AC50E464CC3932D58F2AFC4AFF1@jdnet.deere.com>

Some other things worth noting:

1) Triumph changed their recommendation for A-type OD lube several times.
Around 1960 (exact date uncertain) they went to "GL-4" gear oil only.
Legend has it that this was because of excessive warranty failures of the
countershaft thrust washers (a known weak spot) in TR3-4 gearboxes.  They
apparently felt there would be fewer returns with gear oil, in spite of
Laycock's recommendation.

2)Some time later (again exact date unknown), supposedly Laycock did change
their recommendation to allow use of GL-4 oils.  Supposedly there was even a
service bulletin to that effect, but I've never seen it.  And it's not clear
to me if this applied to A- and D- types or only the later J-type.

3)At this point, the only OD I've tried the Redline MT-90 in is having a
weird OD problem.  I've only heard from one other person with a similar
problem, and he is also using MT-90 in a J-type.  I don't honestly think the
problem is the oil; but I am not going to recommend MT-90 to others until my
problem is resolved, and I have at least 30 or 40 thousand trouble-free
miles racked up.  The MT-90 also failed to do what I would hope it would do
(protect my marginal gearbox from failure), which I also don't blame on the
oil.

4) The Valvoline Racing is actually rather close to being a "gear" oil, as
it has low detergent level (like a gear oil) and an "anti-wear" additive
that helps protect against metal-to-metal contact (like an EP additive
does).  The viscosity is similar as well; plus the "multi-viscosity"
characteristic leads to better shifting both with the gearbox cold, and very
hot.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 13 15:36:52 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 14:36:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations (pt 2)
In-Reply-To: <1EFF9AC50E464CC3932D58F2AFC4AFF1@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <052820082322.16266.483DE9250002E15600003F8A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net><48A30061.15037.379B21B9@localhost>
	<1EFF9AC50E464CC3932D58F2AFC4AFF1@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <3CB73D9D161643E8A51FCB548E5917C3@jdnet.deere.com>

Randall babbled:

> The MT-90 also failed to do what I would hope it would
> do
> (protect my marginal gearbox from failure), which I also don't blame on
> the oil.

Somehow that suffered a PEBKAC error!  What I meant to type was:

"The MT-90 also failed to do what I had hoped it would do" ... meaning that
my 'hope' was unrealistic.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug 13 16:03:13 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 18:03:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations (pt 2)
In-Reply-To: <1EFF9AC50E464CC3932D58F2AFC4AFF1@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <48A30061.15037.379B21B9@localhost>
Message-ID: <48A321E1.5564.381DFD0D@localhost>

On 13 Aug 2008 at 14:29, Randall wrote:

> 3)At this point, the only OD I've tried the Redline MT-90 in is
> having a weird OD problem. 

Thank you, Randall.  Now that you mention it I do recall that you 
posted this just this week.  Uh, would you believe a power surge in 
the brain circuits made me forget?  It happens all the time, you 
know.  Just when I think I'm under control somethinnnnn bzzzt zzz

[reboot]

Thank you, Randall.  Now that you mention it...

It sounds like you have had success with Valvoline 20W50 racing oil, 
as has Terry S.  So I shouldn't worry about the OD clutches wanting 
something thinner.

Tanks,

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Wed Aug 13 16:23:59 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:23:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations (pt 2)
References: <052820082322.16266.483DE9250002E15600003F8A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net><48A30061.15037.379B21B9@localhost>
	<1EFF9AC50E464CC3932D58F2AFC4AFF1@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <B36907BA16CE4E0EAC4A7E2887594495@KARL>

FWIW, my '71 TR6 came from the factory with 90-weight gear oil in its OD 
gearbox, when I bought it new in December of 1970.

The OD began to slip at about 20,000 miles, which I initially misdiagnosed 
as slip in the Laycock diaphragm clutch, so I put in a lever-type Borg & 
Beck.  The OD then blew completely a month later while driving down the 
interstate. Did the gear oil do that ??  Dunno.  I cannibalized an OD from a 
'64 TR4 and put mine back together, still with 90-weight gear oil.  Still 
working 16,000 miles later when I sold the car.

Karl 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Aug 13 16:44:50 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 18:44:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
Message-ID: <bfd.3cd5f8c9.35d4bde2@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/13/2008 4:17:05 PM Central Daylight Time, 
triumph66 at gmail.com writes: 
> Unibroue "17" would work just as well, followed by Unibroue Quelque Chose
> for dessert, how's that sound...
> 
Sounds good to me.  Frankly, I would think that kangaroo would not do all 
that well with a white.

Dave   

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Wed Aug 13 17:45:34 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:45:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
In-Reply-To: <bfd.3cd5f8c9.35d4bde2@cs.com>
References: <bfd.3cd5f8c9.35d4bde2@cs.com>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0808131645u3adbd040w3d4b1d8acb29569c@mail.gmail.com>

Probably best to stay close to his terroir, so let's pair him with a spicy
Australian shiraz.  Although a bit new world in style and packing a kangaroo
kick @ 16% alcohol, how about a "Red Head Studio Barrel Monkey Shiraz 2005
or 2006" is  see -
http://corkd.com/wine/view/60560-Red_Head_Studio_Barrel_Monkey_Shiraz_2005
or http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=194919

Happy quaffing with your roo & NFI,
TL

P.S.please drive your TR responsibly

On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 6:44 PM, <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 8/13/2008 4:17:05 PM Central Daylight Time,
> triumph66 at gmail.com writes:
>
> Unibroue "17" would work just as well, followed by Unibroue Quelque Chose
> for dessert, how's that sound...
>
>
> Sounds good to me.  Frankly, I would think that kangaroo would not do all
> that well with a white.
>
> Dave




-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967
1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car

From dbh at hamengr.com  Wed Aug 13 21:02:24 2008
From: dbh at hamengr.com (David B Hammond)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 20:02:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] axel u bolts
References: <734432.10336.qm@web37607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<48237235.7000705@frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <014601c8fdba$2d9d5850$0401a8c0@HOMEOFFICE>

I have a friend who is in need of 4 axel u bolts. If anyone has, contact me 
off list

David 

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Aug 13 22:37:58 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 22:37:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] axel u bolts
References: <734432.10336.qm@web37607.mail.mud.yahoo.com><48237235.7000705@frontiernet.net>
	<014601c8fdba$2d9d5850$0401a8c0@HOMEOFFICE>
Message-ID: <003801c8fdc7$879b4bc0$9d63b043@rolofson>

I have some from a Ford F-250 or were you wanting them for a particular
vehicle?


71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: David B Hammond
  To: gordon craig
  Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 9:02 PM
  Subject: [TR] axel u bolts


  I have a friend who is in need of 4 axel u bolts. If anyone has, contact me
  off list

  David
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Thu Aug 14 06:49:09 2008
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 08:49:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
Message-ID: <A07EC330-FA7D-40EA-BDF9-19B78267652B@mgcarclub.com>

First, I have limited experience, but I rebuilt an A type two years  
ago and I think the best thing you can do is to change the oil  
frequently. Frequently is subjective, but for me that may be every  
two years. Also be sure to have the magnets in the OD and a magnet  
plug in the trans.

A local rebuilder recommended Valvoline Racing 50W. It kicked in with  
such force that I worried about the drive train and used the clutch.  
This year I changed to Valvoline Racing 30W and like it better, but  
still use the clutch. There were also two A-types, the later one  
redesigned for softer engagement, so that may be a consideration in  
selecting oil weight. I have the earlier one.

Allen Hess
TR4

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Aug 14 07:22:12 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:22:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
Message-ID: <c7a.3ddd9983.35d58b84@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/13/2008 6:45:51 PM Central Daylight Time, 
triumph66 at gmail.com writes: 
> Probably best to stay close to his terroir, so let's pair him with a spicy 
> Australian shiraz.  Although a bit new world in style and packing a kangaroo 
> kick @ 16% alcohol, how about a "Red Head Studio Barrel Monkey Shiraz 2005 or 
> 2006" is  see - 
> http://corkd.com/wine/view/60560-Red_Head_Studio_Barrel_Monkey_Shiraz_2005
> or http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=194919  
> 
> Happy quaffing with your roo &NFI, 
> 
> 
Good choice.  A heavy, fruity wine will stand up well to the gaminess of the 
wild 'roo.  (What this has to do with Triumphs escapes me at the moment)

VTR NATC news:  The Marty Sukey brew swap was a success.  There was a craft 
beer called "10W30" that looked like it was freshly drained from a crankcase.  
Bold, heavy but pleasant in my opinion.  87 out of 100.

Dave   

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 14 07:49:30 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 06:49:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <A07EC330-FA7D-40EA-BDF9-19B78267652B@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <20080814134931.EAA2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> There were also two 
> A-types, the later one redesigned for softer engagement, so 
> that may be a consideration in selecting oil weight.

FWIW, these actually overlapped.  The "softer engagement" models were fitted
to cars with IRS; apparently because the IRS couldn't deal with the "kick in
the pants" delivered by the earlier units when shifting under throttle.
But, solid axle TR4As still got the harder shifting version.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Aug 14 08:49:23 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 10:49:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <20080814134931.EAA2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <A07EC330-FA7D-40EA-BDF9-19B78267652B@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <48A40DB3.7137.3BB7293E@localhost>

On 14 Aug 2008 at 6:49, Randall wrote:

> But, solid axle TR4As still got the harder shifting version.

A solid axle could absorb (or if you prefer, accommodate) the jerk of 
engagement by torquing and thus flexing the entire axle, diff, and 
suspension w.r.t. the frame.  An IRS would transfer all that dynamic 
force to the axles by way of the diff gearing.  Yeah, it might be 
harder on the drivetrain!  On the other hand, the IRS car wouldn't 
twitch the rear over to one side.  I suppose one doesn't normally 
switch OD on or off while in a turn though...

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Aug 14 08:53:04 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 10:53:04 EDT
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
Message-ID: <c59.32a09b5e.35d5a0d0@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/14/2008 7:50:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

I  suppose one doesn't normally 
switch OD on or off while in a turn  though...

-- 
Jim Muller



I drive through a mountainous area and I frequently flick my OD down from  
2nd OD to 2nd going into an uphill  curve. My OD switch is right on the  
gearshift knob so its very easy for me to do.
 
Mike Moore 
59TR3



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 14 09:02:32 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 08:02:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <c59.32a09b5e.35d5a0d0@aol.com>
References: <c59.32a09b5e.35d5a0d0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BF10FC89D1A0408A975053DA0EB7EE8A@jdnet.deere.com>

> I drive through a mountainous area and I frequently flick my OD down from
> 2nd OD to 2nd going into an uphill  curve. My OD switch is right on the
> gearshift knob so its very easy for me to do.

Me too, but since my OD switch is in the stock location, it's even easier to
do with both hands on the wheel <G>

However, Jim almost certainly has a J-type in his late Spit, so he'll never
know the fun of working a mountain road with an A-type.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 14 09:11:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 08:11:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <48A40DB3.7137.3BB7293E@localhost>
References: <A07EC330-FA7D-40EA-BDF9-19B78267652B@mgcarclub.com>
	<48A40DB3.7137.3BB7293E@localhost>
Message-ID: <52BB346D235A4589A91A7B251FA6F5D1@jdnet.deere.com>

> A solid axle could absorb (or if you prefer, accommodate) the jerk of
> engagement by torquing and thus flexing the entire axle, diff, and
> suspension w.r.t. the frame.  An IRS would transfer all that dynamic
> force to the axles by way of the diff gearing.

I guess I'm not following you here, Jim.  Seems to me that both
differentials have a torque reaction that must be absorbed by the diff
mounting; which in the case of the solid axle is the axle tubes and rear
springs.  But for the IRS there are shorter lever arms (to the diff mounts)
so it would actually apply more force (for the same torque impulse) than the
solid axle version.  And since the mounts are also softer, there would be
much more deflection.

> Yeah, it might be
> harder on the drivetrain!  On the other hand, the IRS car wouldn't
> twitch the rear over to one side.

Neither does the solid axle car, unless the rear tires are already so close
to the traction limit that the additional force puts them over the edge.
Which would also apply to IRS.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Aug 14 09:40:46 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:40:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <52BB346D235A4589A91A7B251FA6F5D1@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <48A40DB3.7137.3BB7293E@localhost>
Message-ID: <48A419BE.1362.3BE6330D@localhost>

On 14 Aug 2008 at 8:11, Randall wrote:

> Seems to me that both differentials have a torque reaction that
> must be absorbed by the diff mounting; which in the case of the
> solid axle is the axle tubes and rear springs.

That's exactly the difference.  The torque on the IRS diff is 
countered by the mounts to the frame.  So it is a "closed" system, 
engine to frame and engine to driveshaft, driveshaft to diff, diff to 
frame.  The system itself is under internal stress that may flex the 
frame slightly, but none of it is transferred directly to the tires, 
i.e. to the ground.

With a solid axle the torque on the diff is countered by suspension 
to ground, limited of course by the traction of the wheel being 
lifted.  It's a classic difference between an IRS muscle car and a 
solid axle one where one wheel is loaded and one unloaded.  Compare 
it to the dynamic effect of the flywheel mass torquing the engine 
over on its mounts when you rev the engine in neutral.  That's a 
dynamic effect proportional to the rate of change of rpm.  In 
contrast, the solid exle effect is static, present even at a constant 
rpm.  During hard acceleration the rpms will of course change unless 
you're going up a steep hill or at such high speed that drag prevents 
you from going faster, but the static effect is still there due to 
the engine torque.  If you did this on a dynamometer you'd see the 
car body roll over to one side.

What the suspension involvement means for drivetrain stress is that 
more displacement is available to accommodate a change in forces as 
the engine is deccelerated from the shift.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 14 09:56:38 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:56:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <c59.32a09b5e.35d5a0d0@aol.com>
References: <c59.32a09b5e.35d5a0d0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W1722F3A985DED8B8391E05A5720@phx.gbl>

> I drive through a mountainous area and I frequently flick my OD down from >
2nd OD to 2nd going into an uphill curve. My OD switch is right on the >
gearshift knob so its very easy for me to do.> > Mike Moore > 59TR3
Mountainous area is absolutely correct. And an area of great natural beauty.

I see that Mr. Moore has removed his location from his signature but it came
too late; I saw it.

John H.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 14 11:38:53 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 10:38:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <48A419BE.1362.3BE6330D@localhost>
References: <48A40DB3.7137.3BB7293E@localhost>
	<48A419BE.1362.3BE6330D@localhost>
Message-ID: <B1F5794E2CAF46A9A36BA22DACFEB83F@jdnet.deere.com>

> The torque on the IRS diff is
> countered by the mounts to the frame.

Well, make up your mind ... in your earlier post, you said:
" An IRS would transfer all that dynamic 
force to the axles by way of the diff gearing."

I agree, the solid axle transfers part of the force (both static and
dynamic) into the rear suspension, which might not be the best place for it.
But it's big, and tough, compared to the diff mounts; which is why the solid
axle ODs can shift harder than the IRS can take.

And also why "IRS muscle car" is very close to being an oxymoron <G>

Randall

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Thu Aug 14 12:14:33 2008
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 14:14:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Dwell Angle
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1218650401.15855.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF55A8AFDC.C26AABD2-ON852574A5.006202B3-852574A5.006436D5@gsk.com>

Setting the breaker points' gap accurately is a little tricky, especially 
for not-new contacts that exhibit pitting / build up. I have read that 
correcting dwell angle is more accurate than setting points oin this way.

What would be the correct dwell angle for a TR4? 

While I have found multiple references for a TR6 at 35 degrees (+/- 3 
degrees). I found one reference to TR4, at 60 degrees(+/- 3 degrees) on a 
website I have no reason to trust.

Could someone please confirm?

Many thanks,

Brian

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Aug 14 13:04:41 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 15:04:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <B1F5794E2CAF46A9A36BA22DACFEB83F@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <48A419BE.1362.3BE6330D@localhost>
Message-ID: <48A44989.21453.3CA0E29E@localhost>

On 14 Aug 2008 at 10:38, Randall wrote:

> in your earlier post, you said:
> " An IRS would transfer all that dynamic 
> force to the axles by way of the diff gearing."

Ah, I see where you are going...

When the OD shifts, the engine speed must somehow match the wheels' 
roadspeed.  Either the engine or the car or both, but mostly the 
engine, must change speed quickly.  Something in the drivetrain must 
flex or torque or bend or somehow deform to allow a displacement 
mismatch between engine and wheels before those speeds match.  The 
more total deformation is possible the more time the system has for 
the engine and wheels' speeds to match.  Were there no deformation at 
all the engine and wheels would have to match instantaneously, which 
in principle would mean infinite stresses for an infinitely short 
time.  That's a good way to break bearings or gear teeth, etc.

So the question is, where does that displacement come from?  I 
suppose some could come from the springs in the clutch disk, but not 
much!  Some could come from tire deformation.  I suppose halfshafts 
could torque up.  By far the biggest source would seem to be the 
solid axle suspension allowing the diff to rotate w.r.t. the frame.  
Admittedly there aren't many other places.


> [the suspension is] big, and tough, compared to the diff mounts

Ah, that a different factorization of the problem.   In the model I 
presented the diff mounts would be part of the frame.  Yes, they 
would experience the internal stress of the closed system between 
engine, frame, and driveshaft.  If they are a weak or soft link in 
the physical structure they could presummably break from repeated 
flexing.

The point I was trying to make originally is that if you let the 
suspension holding the diff provide the required deformation, there 
is a tradeoff, i.e. that it torques the body by impulsively loading 
one rear wheel and unloading the other.  Your point is that this is 
preferable to flexing the diff mounts.

I confess I've never experienced a diff mount failure, don't know if 
Spitfires do in general.  Given how the diff is mounted, I guess it 
isn't likely.  Then again, the Spitfire's moving drivetrain parts are 
probably lighter than a TR's too.

Interesting discussion, Randall.  Thanks for driving your point.

"The difference between theory and practice is bigger in practice 
than it is in theory."  Sorry, I tend to fall on the theory side 
until practice says otherwise.  Breaking frame members sure qualifies 
as practice!


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Thu Aug 14 13:17:21 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 15:17:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
References: <48A40DB3.7137.3BB7293E@localhost><48A419BE.1362.3BE6330D@localhost>
	<B1F5794E2CAF46A9A36BA22DACFEB83F@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <001701c8fe42$60b88060$0300a8c0@Desktop>

"And also why "IRS muscle car" is very close to being an oxymoron"
You want explain that to the Formula guys
Craig

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] OD lubrication


>> The torque on the IRS diff is
>> countered by the mounts to the frame.
>
> Well, make up your mind ... in your earlier post, you said:
> " An IRS would transfer all that dynamic
> force to the axles by way of the diff gearing."
>
> I agree, the solid axle transfers part of the force (both static and
> dynamic) into the rear suspension, which might not be the best place for 
> it.
> But it's big, and tough, compared to the diff mounts; which is why the 
> solid
> axle ODs can shift harder than the IRS can take.
>
> And also why "IRS muscle car" is very close to being an oxymoron <G>
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Aug 14 13:36:34 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 12:36:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Dwell Angle
In-Reply-To: <OF55A8AFDC.C26AABD2-ON852574A5.006202B3-852574A5.006436D5@gsk.com>
References: <mailman.3.1218650401.15855.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<OF55A8AFDC.C26AABD2-ON852574A5.006202B3-852574A5.006436D5@gsk.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808141236j371ef38fr27a831aa9347aeb6@mail.gmail.com>

That is what I used when I recently set the points using dwell.

FWIW I found I had to set the gap notably smaller than .015 to achieve
that dwell.

Car ran fine afterwards, ran fine before for that matter.

The smaller gap probably means I will have to keep a closer eye on it
as the gap seems to decrease over time and smaller to start with
leaves less margin for whatever causes it to decrease (probably wear
on that thingy that rides on the cam).

Geo

On 8/14/08, Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com <Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com> wrote:
> ...I found one reference to TR4, at 60 degrees(+/- 3 degrees) on a
> website I have no reason to trust.

From cartr4a at ameritech.net  Thu Aug 14 14:30:18 2008
From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 13:30:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Dwell Angle
In-Reply-To: <OF55A8AFDC.C26AABD2-ON852574A5.006202B3-852574A5.006436D5@gsk.com>
Message-ID: <290321.25797.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

A few years ago in an issue of the VTR magazine there were copies of service manuals dealing with emmisions.  The dwell setting for the TR4 and TR4A was listed at 60 degrees (+/- 3).  I always ran my TR4A at 60 and it seemed to work out well.
   
  Jim
  '68 GT6 MKI
  http://www.geocities.com/britishiron2000

Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com wrote:
  Setting the breaker points' gap accurately is a little tricky, especially 
for not-new contacts that exhibit pitting / build up. I have read that 
correcting dwell angle is more accurate than setting points oin this way.

What would be the correct dwell angle for a TR4? 

While I have found multiple references for a TR6 at 35 degrees (+/- 3 
degrees). I found one reference to TR4, at 60 degrees(+/- 3 degrees) on a 
website I have no reason to trust.

Could someone please confirm?

Many thanks,

Brian
_______________________________________________

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Aug 14 14:30:08 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 16:30:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
References: <A07EC330-FA7D-40EA-BDF9-19B78267652B@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c8fe4c$8b64fc80$67517247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Allen, a very simple adjustment on just how quick or how hard the O/D kicks 
in, I am also a "Valvoline" user.  "FT"
=========================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allen Hess" <allenhess at mgcarclub.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] OD lubrication


> First, I have limited experience, but I rebuilt an A type two years
> ago and I think the best thing you can do is to change the oil
> frequently. Frequently is subjective, but for me that may be every
> two years. Also be sure to have the magnets in the OD and a magnet
> plug in the trans.
>
> A local rebuilder recommended Valvoline Racing 50W. It kicked in with
> such force that I worried about the drive train and used the clutch.
> This year I changed to Valvoline Racing 30W and like it better, but
> still use the clutch. There were also two A-types, the later one
> redesigned for softer engagement, so that may be a consideration in
> selecting oil weight. I have the earlier one.
>
> Allen Hess
> TR4
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Aug 14 16:40:22 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 15:40:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8fe4c$8b64fc80$67517247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <A07EC330-FA7D-40EA-BDF9-19B78267652B@mgcarclub.com>
	<000c01c8fe4c$8b64fc80$67517247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808141540t54153376n5acc043dabec03b6@mail.gmail.com>

Are you saying one can adjust that sudden engagement?

I've always accepted it as the nature of the beast and (I'll confess)
I tend to use the clutch to make it less abrupt.

Geo

On 8/14/08, FRED E THOMAS <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net> wrote:
> Allen, a very simple adjustment on just how quick or how hard the O/D kicks
> in, I am also a "Valvoline" user.  "FT"

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 14 16:43:35 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 15:43:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <001701c8fe42$60b88060$0300a8c0@Desktop>
References: <48A40DB3.7137.3BB7293E@localhost><48A419BE.1362.3BE6330D@localhost>
	<B1F5794E2CAF46A9A36BA22DACFEB83F@jdnet.deere.com>
	<001701c8fe42$60b88060$0300a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <3CF437EB58CB4B1F8EDA9454FB9A8C55@jdnet.deere.com>

> "And also why "IRS muscle car" is very close to being an oxymoron"
> You want explain that to the Formula guys

No need; they know the difference!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muscle_car

Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Aug 14 17:26:45 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 00:26:45 +0100
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
References: <48A419BE.1362.3BE6330D@localhost>
	<48A44989.21453.3CA0E29E@localhost>
Message-ID: <020201c8fe65$38492990$0201a8c0@Bevan>

A point or two on this general thread that I don't understand.

Is there anything intrinsically wrong in using an 80W/90 gear oil as recommended by the factory? 
I've always used it in the Triumphs I've had down the years and with no problem at all. What are the 
benefits (proven or otherwise) of using a lighter weight oil? Is it to enable faster changes - or 
what?

With regard to engagement, some overdrives 'slur' into work, others engage with a mighty thump. Am I 
reading here that users prefer the violent to the more gentle? If so, then the 'thumper' on engaging 
is putting a strain on the engine as it somehow has to suddenly lose some 500-750rpm and the 
flywheel needs immediate slowing. It's different on dis-engaging as an extra 500-750rpm has to be 
found and its all the moving parts from the tyre tread forwards to the engine that does this - wheel 
splines, diff gears, diff nose piece, hardy spicers, gearbox, clutch, flywheel, crank and conrods 
suddenly get accelerated. It's not surprising there's a jerk!

Maybe I've been plain lucky because all my overdrives have been of the 'slur' type and I wouldn't 
have it otherwise. Perhaps it's my own driving style but with or without overdrive I can't stand 
jerkiness or transmission snatch, so I always match engine speed to roadspeed as closely as I can on 
down changes. 'Dipping' the clutch to achieve the smoothness I seek is usually the only way to get 
what I want but even so, it can be done quite fast. Fred Thomas once told me he thought I drove an 
overdrive car differently to others he knew and to this day, I'm still not sure what he meant :)

Jonmac 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 14 17:28:20 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 16:28:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Dwell Angle
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0808141236j371ef38fr27a831aa9347aeb6@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.3.1218650401.15855.triumphs@autox.team.net><OF55A8AFDC.C26AABD2-ON852574A5.006202B3-852574A5.006436D5@gsk.com>
	<7bb181af0808141236j371ef38fr27a831aa9347aeb6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <62F6242B4C3A43B89861FDFDCE8B5F1F@jdnet.deere.com>

> The smaller gap probably means I will have to keep a closer eye on it
> as the gap seems to decrease over time and smaller to start with
> leaves less margin for whatever causes it to decrease (probably wear
> on that thingy that rides on the cam).

If you make it a habit to smear just a tiny bit of grease on the cam at
every oil change, the "thingy" won't wear as quickly.  Put a drop of oil
under the rotor while you're in there.

Randall

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Thu Aug 14 17:48:49 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 19:48:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] now lubrication recommendations
In-Reply-To: <c7a.3ddd9983.35d58b84@cs.com>
References: <c7a.3ddd9983.35d58b84@cs.com>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0808141648h5d903a1p377d62be43335dfb@mail.gmail.com>

Let's hope we can duplicate this brew swap success @ Watkins Glen's upcoming
Vintage Grand Prix weekend.  I'll bring some local favorites from central PA
and of course some single malt refreshments.  Just think, it's 3 weeks
away!  Ted

On 8/14/08, Dave1massey at cs.com <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>
> Good choice.  A heavy, fruity wine will stand up well to the gaminess of
> the
> wild 'roo.  (What this has to do with Triumphs escapes me at the moment)
>
> VTR NATC news:  The Marty Sukey brew swap was a success.  There was a craft
> beer called "10W30" that looked like it was freshly drained from a
> crankcase.
> Bold, heavy but pleasant in my opinion.  87 out of 100.
>
> Dave
>
>


-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967
1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 14 17:58:45 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 16:58:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <020201c8fe65$38492990$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <48A419BE.1362.3BE6330D@localhost><48A44989.21453.3CA0E29E@localhost>
	<020201c8fe65$38492990$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <E42804819EF547BCB2F4C36CA27BC6F6@jdnet.deere.com>

> Is there anything intrinsically wrong in using an 80W/90 gear oil as
> recommended by the factory?

See, for example, service bulletin VANGUARD/4/E dated October 1954 which
notes a change in factory policy to NOT approve use of "Hypoid" oil in
overdrive gearboxes.  

Also Standard-Triumph publication part number 502274, Service Instruction
Manual for the Laycock-de-Normanville Overdrive Unit with Electrical
Control, which warns:
" Under no circumstances should extreme pressure gear oils be used, ..."

> What are the
> benefits (proven or otherwise) of using a lighter weight oil?

The 20W50 motor oil we've been discussing is actually somewhat more viscous
than 90 weight gear oil at operating temperatures.  The reason for the
apparent disparity is that the "grades" for gear oil and motor oil are based
on different temperatures and viscosities.  Believe it or not, this was done
to make things less confusing <G>

So it's not a matter of the oil being thinner at normal operating
temperature.  However, the 20W50 is thinner when starting out in cold
weather, and IMO that is a Good Thing.

> Am I
> reading here that users prefer the violent to the more gentle?

A matter of opinion.  On the TR3, I do prefer the hard shifting A-type OD.
Seems totally appropriate to the concept of a 50s "sports car" where the
emphasis should be on performance and responsiveness.

And many racer types like to upgrade their later A-types (with the softer
shifts) with the earlier components to get the hard shift.

> If so, then
> the 'thumper' on engaging
> is putting a strain on the engine as it somehow has to suddenly lose some
> 500-750rpm

Actually, if you engage the OD at full throttle (as God and Laycock
intended), the reduction in engine rpm is not all that sudden.  Instead, the
car speeds up for at least part of the difference.

And if you are looking for a gentle engagement suitable for cruising the
boulevard, there is always the clutch pedal.

> Maybe I've been plain lucky because all my overdrives have been of the
> 'slur' type

Which has me wondering if they have also been J-type overdrives.  Very
different, as the J-type does not have a pressure accumulator and so cannot
produce the instant shifts of the A-type.

Randall

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 14 18:28:13 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:28:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] threaded rod
Message-ID: <97660.93232.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

As randall suggested I found threaded rod to take out the forward leaf spring
bolt and promptly twisted it off right at the head of the bolt.  I think it'll
be easy to pull out with an extracter.  However in shopping the web site i
quickly became confused, not knowing the meaning of metal ratings.  I know 5
is pretty hard and 8 is very hard but they don't seem to have those strength's
in the size I want.  Is B7 hardness good enough? 
thanks!
gary nafziger

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Aug 14 18:42:54 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 18:42:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
References: <A07EC330-FA7D-40EA-BDF9-19B78267652B@mgcarclub.com>
	<000c01c8fe4c$8b64fc80$67517247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <005f01c8fe6f$db74a9a0$9d63b043@rolofson>

I'm a full throttle OD engager (as Laycock and God intended...per Randall's
quote) using Valvoline 50WRacing Oil.  Its just so much more fun getting that
kick in the pants effect IMHO than doing that wimpy clutch thing.  I've tried
it using the clutch and it feels to me that method is harder on the OD than
full throttle engagement.  Eleven years since I put my A-type OD in and not
one problem driving from one side of the country to the other and back.

Someone on the list long ago advised using Valvoline Racing Oil and its proved
to be good advice for my OD.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: FRED E THOMAS
  To: Allen Hess ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 2:30 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] OD lubrication


  Allen, a very simple adjustment on just how quick or how hard the O/D kicks
  in, I am also a "Valvoline" user.  "FT"
  ===========================================================================
==============================
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: "Allen Hess" <allenhess at mgcarclub.com>
  To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 8:49 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] OD lubrication


  > First, I have limited experience, but I rebuilt an A type two years
  > ago and I think the best thing you can do is to change the oil
  > frequently. Frequently is subjective, but for me that may be every
  > two years. Also be sure to have the magnets in the OD and a magnet
  > plug in the trans.
  >
  > A local rebuilder recommended Valvoline Racing 50W. It kicked in with
  > such force that I worried about the drive train and used the clutch.
  > This year I changed to Valvoline Racing 30W and like it better, but
  > still use the clutch. There were also two A-types, the later one
  > redesigned for softer engagement, so that may be a consideration in
  > selecting oil weight. I have the earlier one.
  >
  > Allen Hess
  > TR4
  > _______________________________________________
  >
  > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  > http://www.vtr.org
  >
  >
  > Triumphs at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
  >
  > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
  >
  > http://www.team.net/archive
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
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  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Aug 15 06:54:13 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 08:54:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
Message-ID: <c05.43baace5.35d6d675@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/14/2008 6:26:49 PM Central Daylight Time, 
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: 
> With regard to engagement, some overdrives 'slur' into work, others engage 
> with a mighty thump. Am I reading here that users prefer the violent to the 
> more gentle? If so, then the 'thumper' on engaging is putting a strain on the 
> engine as it somehow has to suddenly lose some 500-750rpm and the flywheel 
> needs immediate slowing. It's different on dis-engaging as an extra 500-750rpm 
> has to be found and its all the moving parts from the tyre tread forwards to 
> the engine that does this - wheel splines, diff gears, diff nose piece, hardy 
> spicers, gearbox, clutch, flywheel, crank and conrods suddenly get 
> accelerated. It's not surprising there's a jerk!

I'm with you, John.  My TR6 (J-type) has a nice smooth engagement when 
shifting into overdrive.  There is about a 1/3 to 1/2 second delay at highway (or 
highway on ramp) speeds so a little anticipation is a good thing but not a 
difficult habit to acquire.  The TR3 (A-type), however, will engage the O/D before 
the switch has finished its travel.  Although I doubt this has an adverse 
effect on the engine I do believe that slowing a 30 lb flywheel from 3500 RPM to 
2800 RPM in such a short period of time puts a lot of stress on the gears, 
bearings and thrust washers in the transmission proper and in the overdrive 
portion as well.  I've take to slightly dipping the clutch when engaging the O/D to 
soften the load.

The Big Healey's had a sleeve and smaller piston in the accumulator 
effectively reducing the size and causing a greater drop in accumulator pressure upon 
engagement softening the "blow" when overdrive is engaged.  This may be how 
they accomplished the "soft shift" to which Randall refers as used in IRS TR's.  
I, for one, am fitting just such hardware to my TR3 box as it gets 
reassembled.  I do not wish to make the gearbox rebuilds a frequent thing.

Cheers

Dave

From desnfab at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 15 11:24:34 2008
From: desnfab at hotmail.com (James McCracken)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 13:24:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] dwell angle
Message-ID: <BAY140-W1028A5434FBB05716118ADB66D0@phx.gbl>

way back when, when i did that sort of thing, the generally accepted dwell
angle for a 4 cyl engine was 52+/- a degree or two. 60 sounds like a lot
Jim
_________________________________________________________________
Talk to your Yahoo! Friends via Windows Live Messenger.  Find out how.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/messenger?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_messenger_yaho
o_082008

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Fri Aug 15 12:49:33 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 14:49:33 EDT
Subject: [TR]  TR4 Dwell Angle
Message-ID: <c61.32704a58.35d729bd@aol.com>

I think vintage TR racers pre-bed-in the plastic cam foot to the cam by
slipping in a piece of fine emery paper in between the foot and cam and taking 
a
few strokes off the plastic foot to get a more accurate fit to the cam. Normall
y
ignition points rapidly bed-in on their own within the first couple hundred
miles (and your gap gets smaller just as fast). I guess racers don't want their
new points gaps changing during the race!
ps; Don't all 4 cyl engines use similar dwell? The Volvo 122S book says 59-65
degrees @ 500rpm
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

If you make it a habit to smear just a tiny bit of grease on the cam at
every oil change, the "thingy" won't wear as quickly.  Put a drop of oil
under the rotor while you're in there.
**************
Looking for a car that's
sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.

(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030
000000007
 )

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Aug 15 15:05:32 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 17:05:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Question
Message-ID: <c09.42167f95.35d7499c@aol.com>

Actually, Daytons are available with tubless rims...
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay





In a message dated 8/10/2008 6:01:47 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
pdonnel1 at san.rr.com writes:

It's my  understanding that the major difference between the two is the
spokes. The  Dunlop's are chrome plated, while the Dayton's are straight
stainless. I  was told by others that since spokes flex the chrome plating
will crack.  Both require inner  tubes





**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 15 17:04:43 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 19:04:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR NATC autox in car video
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W31960C2A0054C5B0D061FEBA6D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W31960C2A0054C5B0D061FEBA6D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W3279EB1B316FCA8DA435C5BA6D0@phx.gbl>

http://smorris.smugmug.com/gallery/5710440_UzwTk

Above is a link to an in car video of my last run at the VTR event last week
in Ypsilanti.

Enjoy,
Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Fri Aug 15 17:07:57 2008
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 19:07:57 EDT
Subject: [TR] Dwell Angle
Message-ID: <c86.388c5a7b.35d7664d@aol.com>

I seem to recall from the old gas station days that dwell angle was always 
60% closed regardless of the number of cylinders.   Thus, for a four cylinder 
engine, with 90 degrees per revolution of the rotor it came out to 54 degrees - 
plus or minus.   With six cylinders, it was 36 degrees (60% of 60 degrees) 
etc.   Some dwell meters measured in percentage.   Maybe that was too coarse a 
setting but it seemed to work well back in the 60's.
George Haynes


**************
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in 
your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.
      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 15 18:22:46 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 17:22:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] engine missing prior postings
Message-ID: <249585.20358.qm@web59602.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Just wondering if the person with prior problems getting tr-6 to run right
(missing) ever found the problem.  I seem to be having the same problem!!
if a
solution was found please share with me. lol
gary nafziger

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 15 18:44:03 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 17:44:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <48A44989.21453.3CA0E29E@localhost>
References: <48A419BE.1362.3BE6330D@localhost>
	<48A44989.21453.3CA0E29E@localhost>
Message-ID: <EB91C64F55BD49358322699DF3D13AE5@jdnet.deere.com>

> Something in the drivetrain must
> flex or torque or bend or somehow deform to allow a displacement
> mismatch between engine and wheels before those speeds match.

I disagree.  That's exactly why there is a _clutch_ in the overdrive instead
of simply sliding gears like the transmission uses.  The clutch slips during
the adaptation period to limit the shock applied to other components.

> If they are a weak or soft link in
> the physical structure they could presummably break from repeated
> flexing.

And indeed that is a common problem on the TR6, even with slow shifting (or
no) overdrive.

> Then again, the Spitfire's moving drivetrain parts are
> probably lighter than a TR's too.

Indeed.  Lots less inertia, too.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Fri Aug 15 19:32:18 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 21:32:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] torque/rubber gaitor problems
Message-ID: <003a01c8ff3f$ec8c7670$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
What is the torque value for the slotted nut that holds the ball joint to the
upper wishbone arm?
The book doesn't give it.

However, it gives 55-65 ft/lbs for the ball joint to vertical link.

My biggest problem now seems to be keeping the rubber gaitor in both grooves
(located just below the ball joint).  Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey  60 tr3a

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 863 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri Aug 15 19:52:18 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 21:52:18 EDT
Subject: [TR] VTR NATC autox in car video
Message-ID: <bca.2f40c0e6.35d78cd2@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/15/2008 7:04:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:

http://smorris.smugmug.com/gallery/5710440_UzwTk

Above is a link  to an in car video of my last run at the VTR event last week
in  Ypsilanti.

Enjoy,
Marty
 
 
Way Cool!
 
too bad we didn't get 3 runs - i think i see where you could have shaved  
another 3/10s
oh, wait a minute - that was your 3rd run - never mind
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc - 2nd FastestTimeofDay (aka 1st loser) 




**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Sat Aug 16 07:00:22 2008
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 09:00:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR NATC autox in car video
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W3279EB1B316FCA8DA435C5BA6D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W31960C2A0054C5B0D061FEBA6D0@phx.gbl>
	<BAY123-W3279EB1B316FCA8DA435C5BA6D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <DBD43F77-6573-4E55-B124-74489F784788@blakedischer.com>

Hey Marty,

That video is fantastic!  I happened to be in the timing truck when  
you ran.  After seeing you run, the woman who was sort of in charge of  
timing said your drive was impressive and she would give up just about  
anything to take your car for a spin on the course.  In order to  
prevent any marital issues for you, I told her no one ever gets a ride  
in your car.  Then word gets to the truck that BS Levy has apparently  
mooched a ride from you.  She wondered aloud what exactly it was that  
Burt gave up for the ride!  LOL.

Just an FYI for everyone, Burt never did get a ride, the skies opened  
up just as I was running the Stag and I think I may have been the last  
car out.

Seriously though, it was sure a treat watching you run and get FTD.
________________________
Blake J. Discher




On Aug 15, 2008, at 7:04 PM, marty sukey wrote:

> http://smorris.smugmug.com/gallery/5710440_UzwTk
>
> Above is a link to an in car video of my last run at the VTR event  
> last week

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Aug 16 08:47:59 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 10:47:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] VTR NATC autox in car video
Message-ID: <be0.3ee9a8b5.35d8429f@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/15/2008 6:05:06 PM Central Daylight Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes: 
> http://smorris.smugmug.com/gallery/5710440_UzwTk
> 
> Above is a link to an in car video of my last run at the VTR event last week
> in Ypsilanti.
> 
Damn!  You make it look easy!

Dave (10 seconds slower)   

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 16 13:48:32 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 12:48:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] crane electronic ignition
Message-ID: <806321.23974.qm@web59616.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Just a quickie on installing the crane ignition.  I'm finding the instructions
confusing and am simply wondering if anyone knows a tech source through
clubs/newsletters/online that has explained this installation better for a 69
tr-6?
thanks!
gary nafziger

From mathews at uga.edu  Sat Aug 16 15:52:40 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 17:52:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Odds and ends available from 57 TR3
Message-ID: <20080816215224.E40FA1878A6@autox.team.net>

Ok,

You'll laugh when you see the picture..its not a project car  :-)
I bought it in the late 70's and have pretty much removed most 
everything I can think I'd need, but everything that is left on the 
car(excluding shocks and read end) is available for free...shipping 
is not though.

So if there might be some odd part left on it you might be interested 
in, let me know and I'l check the car.

As I say in the pictures, I just brought the car over from where its 
been stored and its upside down in our back yard.  I told my wife it 
was yard art, but she does not believe me!  I'd like to get rid of it 
in a week or so and its off to the recycle shop.

http://picasaweb.google.com/dougmathews1

Doug

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug 16 17:11:58 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 16:11:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] crane electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <806321.23974.qm@web59616.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080816231159.JVSI757.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I'm finding 
> the instructions confusing and am simply wondering if anyone 
> knows a tech source through clubs/newsletters/online that has 
> explained this installation better for a 69 tr-6?

I don't know of any articles for a TR6, but we can probably answer your
questions here ...

Hardest part is knowing how much of the instructions to ignore (which is a
lot).  Since a 69 TR6 has neither external ballast nor electronic tach nor
OPUS modules (etc); it's actually easier than the instructions sound.
Ignore the Lucas-specific section (which is for OPUS), and follow the
"Universal 4-6-8 ... adjustable bracket" section.

Next hardest part IMO is getting the phasing just right ... I wound up
having to tweak mine by trial and error to get the engine to run smooth
under all conditions.  But the procedure in the instructions should get you
close enough for the engine to run.

IIRC you'll need to remove the plastic insert where the stock terminal is
mounted, and substitute a rubber grommet (not supplied) for the insert.

Randall

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat Aug 16 17:42:01 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 19:42:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 floor pans
Message-ID: <004e01c8fff9$aeb55c80$d307a942@alan>

I thought I'd ask if anyone had some TR6 floor pans they'd like to sell.

Somebody post some awhile ago, I'am sure they're gone.

Cheers

Al

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 16 17:49:44 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 16:49:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] crane ignition
Message-ID: <602511.94222.qm@web59603.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

THANKS RANDALL,  
very very helpful to know.  I didn't understand OPUS at all and assumed it was for other luca applications.  seems it might be part of the jaguar system.  anyway  there's "directions" that come with parts and then there's DIRECTIONS a person gets from people who really know and thats why this list is so helpful.

One last question I had is attaching the optical brackets.  Use existing holes or make new ones?  Do you keep points plate in or take out?  And i'm assuming the optical scanner gets attached to be "tripped" at the same location that the points get tripped?

thanks again!

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug 16 17:58:58 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 16:58:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] crane ignition
In-Reply-To: <602511.94222.qm@web59603.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080816235858.XSCV6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> One last question I had is attaching the optical brackets.  
> Use existing holes or make new ones?

We found a hole that worked, but I don't recall which one.  I had to cut one
of the brackets tho, to make it fit on my TR3A.

>  Do you keep points plate in or take out?

Normally, keep it.  For a 69 TR6, you'll need it to retain the vacuum
advance/retard operation.  Don't forget that it moves both ways, so there
needs to be some slack in the wires.

>  And i'm assuming the optical scanner 
> gets attached to be "tripped" at the same location that the 
> points get tripped?

Right.  Check out "Optical Trigger Adjustment Procedure" starting on page 13
of the Crane instructions (unless they've been updated from the 10/2000
version on my hard drive).

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Aug 16 18:05:47 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 20:05:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <EB91C64F55BD49358322699DF3D13AE5@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <48A44989.21453.3CA0E29E@localhost>
Message-ID: <48A7331B.412.4801480B@localhost>

On 15 Aug 2008 at 17:44, Randall wrote:

> > Something in the drivetrain must
> > flex or torque or bend or somehow deform

> I disagree.  That's exactly why there is a _clutch_ in the
> overdrive

Not to be pedantical or anything, but a clutch is simply one form of 
deformation.  It is different from that of, say, a spring in that it 
absorbs energy irreversibly, converting it to heat.  If the energy is 
absorbed uniformly over the same displacement range, which implies 
that the retarding or accelerating force is uniform through that 
range, then the force it exerts on the components is only half the 
maximum reached by the spring, and there is no rebound either.  (This 
is the same reason for using a crushable material in a bike helemt 
instead of an elastic foam.)

Even so, the engine and car must match speeds over some small period 
of time.  The shorter the time, the higher the forces, or to put the 
causality right, the higher the forces, the shorter the time.  And 
regardless of how quickly the OD moves into engagement, the force 
history, and thus the time for the speeds to match, is determined by 
time history of the friction of the clutches.  If fast engagement due 
to a pre-pressurized piston also means more friction, then it would 
create higher forces in the drivetrain.  And if something else in the 
system can deform also, then the forces are reduced.

I stand by my original description.  When the OD state changes, a 
solid axle car will experience an inpulsive loading of one rear wheel 
and a similar unloading of the other, caused by the driveshaft 
torquing the diff and axle tube.  In an IRS car, this does not happen 
but admittedly the diff mounts absorb the same impulse.  In the first 
case, it will affect handling, in the second I'll grant that the diff 
mounts could break,  In either case, something must absorb the 
displacement difference between opposite sides of the OD, and a short 
time over which it occurs corresponds to higher stresses on whichever 
component must absorb them.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Aug 16 18:05:47 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 20:05:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] And speaking of OD oil
Message-ID: <48A7331B.20931.480148A7@localhost>

I drained and refilled the Spitfire's gearbox today.  I was 
astonished by how little oil drained out.  I cleaned up the drain 
plug, poured the requisit volume of Valvoline Racing Oil 20w50 back 
in, took it for a spin around the neighborhood.  That's more like it, 
easy shifting, quick en/disengagment of the OD.  Now we'll wait and 
see...

I had noticed before that after driving most of the way home from 
work I'd hit a stoplight and sometimes experience the smell of oil 
dripping onto the tailpipe.  The box itself seems to be leaking very 
slowly from a myriad of seams.  It's only a matter of time before the 
oil all slithers out again, but maybe this 20w50 stuff will slither 
out more slowly.  It has sure not been what I would have expected in 
a rebuilt box from QM.  However I will not trouble to pull it again 
until necessary.

In the meantime the body is begging for serious attention.  At least 
the car is mechanically sound (for the time being).

Thank you all for all the advice.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Aug 16 18:13:38 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 20:13:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Odds and ends available from 57 TR3
In-Reply-To: <20080816215224.E40FA1878A6@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <48A734F2.23192.480875EF@localhost>

On 16 Aug 2008 at 17:52, Doug Mathews wrote:

> You'll laugh when you see the picture...
> 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/dougmathews1

"Jane on the summit" is much nicer!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug 16 20:14:05 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 19:14:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD lubrication
In-Reply-To: <48A7331B.412.4801480B@localhost>
Message-ID: <20080817021404.FHJM28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> I stand by my original description.  When the OD state 
> changes, a solid axle car will experience an inpulsive 
> loading of one rear wheel and a similar unloading of the 
> other, caused by the driveshaft torquing the diff and axle 
> tube.

That's true, but with a 100hp motor in a 2000 lb car, it's not enough to
notice.

>  In an IRS car, this does not happen

But the frame and body get torqued, which in turn lifts the wheel anyway.

> In either case, something must absorb 
> the displacement difference between opposite sides of the OD, 
> and a short time over which it occurs corresponds to higher 
> stresses on whichever component must absorb them.

True.  But those stresses are relatively small and controlled by design,
compared to (for example) dumping the clutch in 1st gear.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Aug 16 22:17:37 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 00:17:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] ebay spark plug wire holder?
Message-ID: <006101c90020$31538380$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I may have asked this already.  I bought something on ebay which I've never
seen before.  It is at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN
X:IT&item=360062695549 and it is a TRIUMPH TR3 CUSTOM HOT ROD PLUG WIRE HOLDER
& DIST CAP.  It would seem to 'leak' current and thus be more of a problem
than a remedy.  I guess other cars might have them (who knows?)  I guess their
purpose is to shield the heat from the wires?  Does anyone on the list have an
idea?


Thanks, Paul   60 TR3

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 863 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From jmitch at snet.net  Sun Aug 17 06:25:02 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 08:25:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Front License plate bracket
Message-ID: <48A8189E.10907@snet.net>

    Several weeks ago someone on list asked about finding a late model 
license plate holder for his TR6.  I noticed one listed on ebay today if 
it's still needed.
  Item number  370078168330


                                           John Mitchell    76 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 17 10:18:45 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 09:18:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] ebay spark plug wire holder?
In-Reply-To: <006101c90020$31538380$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080817161845.QXZK2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> it is a TRIUMPH TR3 CUSTOM HOT ROD 
> PLUG WIRE HOLDER & DIST CAP.  It would seem to 'leak' current 
> and thus be more of a problem than a remedy.

Yup.

I believe similar arrangements were common before 1940 or so, when (natural
rubber ?) plug wire insulation would degrade rapidly when exposed to the
environment under the hood.  The metal tubes helped protect the wire and
prolong it's life (which was still rather short).  However, with the advent
of materials like Hypalon for plug wires, the metal shields became a
detriment and were quickly dropped (except in cases where extreme protection
against RFI was needed, like military vehicles).

I would guess that someone liked the look of those old metal looms, and
decided to make one for their TR3.  But of course there are eBay sellers
that don't seem to know what they are selling, so it might well be from some
other car entirely

Probably won't hurt anything (though I'd definitely put new wires in it), so
use it if you want.

Randall

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 17 10:36:40 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 12:36:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Odds and ends available from 57 TR3
In-Reply-To: <20080816215224.E40FA1878A6@autox.team.net>
References: <20080816215224.E40FA1878A6@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W345160E4FC17047A59FA30A56F0@phx.gbl>

Where is the car?> Ok,> > You'll laugh when you see the picture..its not a
project car :-)> I bought it in the late 70's and have pretty much removed
most > everything I can think I'd need, but everything that is left on the >
car(excluding shocks and read end) is available for free...shipping > is not
though.> > So if there might be some odd part left on it you might be
interested > in, let me know and I'l check the car.> > As I say in the
pictures, I just brought the car over from where its > been stored and its
upside down in our back yard. I told my wife it > was yard art, but she does
not believe me! I'd like to get rid of it > in a week or so and its off to the
recycle shop.> > http://picasaweb.google.com/dougmathews1> > Doug

From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 17 16:24:53 2008
From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 15:24:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2/3/3a Hardtop Headliner
Message-ID: <BLU147-W3962CEDEE9A14B3EA0076EDD6F0@phx.gbl>

Hi - A couple of years ago (about 5 to be exact) I copied some pages from a
website about a hard top restoration.  It included some pictures, but I did
not copy them, unfortunately.  I just tried the address at the bottom, and it
was not to be found.  Does anyone have any idea who this was?  I believe that
it is a white hardtop on a white TR3a from somewhere near the SE VTR Regional,
possibly Atlanta?  As I recall, the car was also featured in some type of
publication.

Thanks for your help.

David Gunn
1954 TR2 TS3388L
Chico, CA

_________________________________________________________________
Get ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to share.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
_Gallery_082008

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 17 17:30:07 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:30:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] turning dizzy/timing
Message-ID: <767324.75345.qm@web59614.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I'm wanting to turn my distributor since I'm needing to retard the timing more and the vacuum canister is almost hitting the block.  I'm assuming that I simply need to withdraw the distributor (not loosening the clamp)........then turning the bushing/drive in the block appropriately........then re-installing the distributor.  Am I assuming right?

gary nafziger

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Sun Aug 17 17:31:24 2008
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 19:31:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3/3a Hardtop Headliner
In-Reply-To: <BLU147-W3962CEDEE9A14B3EA0076EDD6F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU147-W3962CEDEE9A14B3EA0076EDD6F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48A8B4CC.2070906@earthlink.net>

Go to the Wayback Machine and paste in that address.  There you will 
find your pictures.

Joe

 David Gunn wrote:
> Hi - A couple of years ago (about 5 to be exact) I copied some pages from a
> website about a hard top restoration.  It included some pictures, but I did
> not copy them, unfortunately.  I just tried the address at the bottom, and it
> was not to be found.  Does anyone have any idea who this was?  I believe that
> it is a white hardtop on a white TR3a from somewhere near the SE VTR Regional,
> possibly Atlanta?  As I recall, the car was also featured in some type of
> publication.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> David Gunn
> 1954 TR2 TS3388L
> Chico, CA
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to share.
> http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
> _Gallery_082008
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jmitch at snet.net  Sun Aug 17 18:22:13 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 20:22:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pertronix failure
Message-ID: <48A8C0B5.7000509@snet.net>

    I had my Pertronix unit on my TR6 fail this evening.  I've had it 
less than a year.  Luckily I had a backup unit in the boot.  A quick 
switch and all was well.  At home I checked the wires going into the 
sensor for continuity and both were solid all the way.  The only 
difference in wiring, was that I had the red lead connected to the fuse 
box and the black lead to the negative side of the coil.  I did it that 
way to hide the extra wire and make it look original.  Could this have 
effected the longevity of the unit?  Thanks for any insights.   John 
Mitchell    76 TR6   Shelton, CT

From mkutka at comcast.net  Sun Aug 17 19:27:31 2008
From: mkutka at comcast.net (mkutka at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 01:27:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] Uncle Jack
Message-ID: <081820080127.5057.48A8D003000C4B5B000013C122120592140E059B9A0503@comcast.net>

A sad day this past weekend. I picked this up from the FOT list. In Grattan Michigan we lost a true friend of triumph racing "new blue," his Tr4.

Uncle Jack was a very supportive figure in the current Triumph racing fraternity and for triumph lovers all over who drive their cars. He was instrumental in some of the recent updates for our cars and was always willing to help out a fellow triumph guy. He was a true friend of the hobby and for those who worked with and knew him well including his family I extend my condolences. I spoke with Uncle Jack several times over the phone and entrusted some "custom" work to him a few years ago. He was one of the special people you meet in life and are thankful for them. I still have the scribbled recipe I transcribed while speaking to him over the phone. It was a basic recipe for a fast street TR3/4/4A motor. He insisted I refer to him as Uncle Jack even though we never met face to face and told me to call anytime. That and many other stories from all the others he helped in this hobby is why we are lucky to have had him. 

Gods Speed Uncle Jack

MK

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Aug 17 19:42:40 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 21:42:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] turning dizzy/timing
Message-ID: <c81.33fc4697.35da2d90@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/17/2008 6:30:33 PM Central Daylight Time, 
nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: 
> I'm wanting to turn my distributor since I'm needing to retard the timing 
> more and the vacuum canister is almost hitting the block.  I'm assuming that I 
> simply need to withdraw the distributor (not loosening the 
> clamp)........then turning the bushing/drive in the block appropriately........then 
> re-installing the distributor.  Am I assuming right?
> 
You will have to remove the pedestal mount as well.  Then you will have to 
index the spur gear that is turned by the camshaft.  Assembly is the reverse of 
the above.

Dave   

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Sun Aug 17 19:46:14 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 21:46:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Uncle Jack
References: <081820080127.5057.48A8D003000C4B5B000013C122120592140E059B9A0503@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <942E716A3DBD432EBBBAF8D4EDEF91AA@D1TG6Y71>

I am greatly saddened by the news.  Jack had kindly provided me with a lot 
of information over the years mostly off the list and without seeking 
anything in return.  The Triumph community has lost one of its great 
characters today.

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
************************************** 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 17 19:49:17 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 18:49:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pertronix failure
In-Reply-To: <48A8C0B5.7000509@snet.net>
Message-ID: <20080818014918.PKKZ28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> The only difference in wiring, 
> was that I had the red lead connected to the fuse box and the 
> black lead to the negative side of the coil.  I did it that 
> way to hide the extra wire and make it look original.  Could 
> this have 
> effected the longevity of the unit?

Did you still have the resistor wire going to the positive side of the coil
?

Randall

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Sun Aug 17 19:53:06 2008
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 18:53:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Uncle Jack
In-Reply-To: <942E716A3DBD432EBBBAF8D4EDEF91AA@D1TG6Y71>
References: <081820080127.5057.48A8D003000C4B5B000013C122120592140E059B9A0503@comcast.net>
	<942E716A3DBD432EBBBAF8D4EDEF91AA@D1TG6Y71>
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0808171853g3976c3bag349592de6e9a4c57@mail.gmail.com>

Indeed a sad day. I had traded emails off list with Uncle Jack about heat
sheilds. He was an exceptional person.

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ

From jmitch at snet.net  Sun Aug 17 19:59:01 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 21:59:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pertronix failure
In-Reply-To: <20080818014918.PKKZ28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <20080818014918.PKKZ28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <48A8D765.50006@snet.net>

Yes, Pink/white and yellow/white were attached to the positive side.    John

Randall wrote:
>> The only difference in wiring, 
>> was that I had the red lead connected to the fuse box and the 
>> black lead to the negative side of the coil.  I did it that 
>> way to hide the extra wire and make it look original.  Could 
>> this have 
>> effected the longevity of the unit?
>>     
>
> Did you still have the resistor wire going to the positive side of the coil
> ?
>
> Randall

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sun Aug 17 20:35:58 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 21:35:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] turning dizzy/timing
Message-ID: <410-2200881182355820@earthlink.net>

Gary,
  
Is there some reason you can't just move the spark plug wires in the
distributor cap all one hole over? That would give you a 60 degree benefit
to reposition the vacuum unit before you time the engine again

 Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN        .

> Subject: [TR] turning dizzy/timing
>
> I'm wanting to turn my distributor since I'm needing to retard the timing
more and the vacuum canister is almost hitting the block.  I'm assuming
that I simply need to withdraw the distributor (not loosening the
clamp)........then turning the bushing/drive in the block
appropriately........then re-installing the distributor.  Am I assuming
right?
>
> gary nafziger

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 17 22:03:50 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 23:03:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] traffiator/blinker woes
References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>
Message-ID: <002101c900e7$84efe750$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

Good evening, all.

just went for a drive in the TR6 with my daughter, who is 15, and on her 
learner's permit.  She drove it for the first time and loved it!

anyway, that's the good news.

the bad news: the trafficator blinks like a strobe, as do the front 
blinkers.  i did not check the rear, but i'm assuming they are doing the 
same silly dance.

is the most likely culprit the flasher unit?? 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 17 22:57:30 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 21:57:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pertronix failure
In-Reply-To: <48A8D765.50006@snet.net>
Message-ID: <20080818045730.REJE28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Yes, Pink/white and yellow/white were attached to the 
> positive side.

Then your wiring would seem to be exactly what Pertronix recommended.  

My only other thought is perhaps the key was left on with the engine not
running for an extended length of time at some point (not necessarily when
it failed); or it was just a random failure.

Randall

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Aug 18 02:40:22 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 04:40:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] traffiator/blinker woes
In-Reply-To: <002101c900e7$84efe750$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>
	<002101c900e7$84efe750$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <20080818084006.1F930187647@autox.team.net>

Ah, so maybe your daughter will become a real TR fancier!

Check al the bulbs...a fast blinker can be a burned out buld....I've 
read they are designed that way.

Doug

At 12:03 AM 8/18/2008, you wrote:
>Good evening, all.
>
>just went for a drive in the TR6 with my daughter, who is 15, and on her
>learner's permit.  She drove it for the first time and loved it!
>
>anyway, that's the good news.
>
>the bad news: the trafficator blinks like a strobe, as do the front
>blinkers.  i did not check the rear, but i'm assuming they are doing the
>same silly dance.
>
>is the most likely culprit the flasher unit??
>_______________________________________________

From jmitch at snet.net  Mon Aug 18 04:53:15 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 06:53:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pertronix failure
In-Reply-To: <20080818045730.REJE28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <20080818045730.REJE28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <48A9549B.3080200@snet.net>

Thanks Randall,  It may well be that I left the ignition on while 
tracking down a short in the dash lights.  In the future I'll have to 
remember to disconnect the lead at the fuse box before working with the 
ignition on.  I should probably disconnect the coil lead also.   John

Randall wrote:
>> Yes, Pink/white and yellow/white were attached to the 
>> positive side.
>>     
>
> Then your wiring would seem to be exactly what Pertronix recommended.  
>
> My only other thought is perhaps the key was left on with the engine not
> running for an extended length of time at some point (not necessarily when
> it failed); or it was just a random failure.
>
> Randall

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Mon Aug 18 09:21:33 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 08:21:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] traffiator/blinker woes
References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>
	<002101c900e7$84efe750$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <000c01c90146$18dc0260$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

I have seen that condition on one side of the car when one lamp has gone
bad.
You did not mention what hazard flasher does???
If rear bulbs are not working I would look for wiring problem common to both
in the rear first.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "'6-Pack'"
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 9:03 PM
Subject: [6pack] traffiator/blinker woes


> Good evening, all.
>
> just went for a drive in the TR6 with my daughter, who is 15, and on her
> learner's permit.  She drove it for the first time and loved it!
>
> anyway, that's the good news.
>
> the bad news: the trafficator blinks like a strobe, as do the front
> blinkers.  i did not check the rear, but i'm assuming they are doing the
> same silly dance.
>
> is the most likely culprit the flasher unit??
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
> Database version: 5.10490e
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
Database version: 5.10490e
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From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Aug 18 07:40:28 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 13:40:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] traffiator/blinker woes
Message-ID: <081820081340.19461.48A97BCC0003172E00004C0522165548869D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> Good evening, all.
> 
> just went for a drive in the TR6 with my daughter, who is 15, and on her 
> learner's permit.  She drove it for the first time and loved it!
> 
> anyway, that's the good news.
> 
> the bad news: the trafficator blinks like a strobe, as do the front 
> blinkers.  i did not check the rear, but i'm assuming they are doing the 
> same silly dance.

Check that rear bulb.  It may be burned out.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net  Mon Aug 18 08:17:42 2008
From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 10:17:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Uncle Jack
Message-ID: <5CD8836CFF524DECB0AA7C2FAFFF19B3@chuck>

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Macy [mailto:pmmacy at sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 10:11 AM
To: Chuck White
Subject: Uncle Jack


More on Uncle Jack.
 
http://www.woodtv.com/Global/story.asp?S=8852694

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 18 08:49:43 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 14:49:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] Uncle Jack
Message-ID: <081820081449.17619.48A98C0700085AA5000044D32200745672CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net>

Gosh. What shocking news. Jack had just been very helpful to me while I was flowing/polishing my 10.5:1 TR4 head. Such a willing sharing of knowledge; he contacted me off list and offered his hard-learned experience to help me.
God Bless, Jack.

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 18 08:54:59 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 14:54:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
Message-ID: <081820081454.27495.48A98D43000041E900006B672206824693CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net>

Is there the possibility that 'upgrades' such as the Pertronix ignition unit, and other like it, are less reliable than the contact breaker points they replace?

Have any TR folks given up on such a system and reverted to points?

Brian

> Message: 4 
> Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 20:22:13 -0400 
> From: John Mitchell 
> Subject: [TR] Pertronix failure 
> To: 6 Pack <6pack at Autox.Team.Net>, "triumphs at autox.team.net" 
> 
> Message-ID: <48A8C0B5.7000509 at snet.net> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed 
> 
> I had my Pertronix unit on my TR6 fail this evening. I've had it 
> less than a year. Luckily I had a backup unit in the boot. A quick 
> switch and all was well. At home I checked the wires going into the 
> sensor for continuity and both were solid all the way. The only 
> difference in wiring, was that I had the red lead connected to the fuse 
> box and the black lead to the negative side of the coil. I did it that 
> way to hide the extra wire and make it look original. Could this have 
> effected the longevity of the unit? Thanks for any insights. John 
> Mitchell 76 TR6 Shelton, CT 

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Aug 18 09:01:20 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 11:01:20 EDT
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
Message-ID: <c95.368c5feb.35dae8c0@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/18/2008 7:56:14 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
banc8004 at comcast.net writes:

Is there  the possibility that 'upgrades' such as the Pertronix ignition 
unit, and other  like it, are less reliable than the contact breaker points they  
replace?

Have any TR folks given up on such a system and reverted to  points?

Brian



I went back to points in my Stag and also my E Type Jag. The problem I had  
was when I had a failure, I had no way of troubleshooting it without  
installing points. 
 
I am installing Pertronix in a second Jaguar, BUT I have a new,  
spare,unopened box in the boot in case it fails on the road. Very few people on  the Jag 
list have had a Pertronix failure.
 
Mike Moore 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Aug 18 09:03:30 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 09:03:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <081820081454.27495.48A98D43000041E900006B672206824693CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net>
References: <081820081454.27495.48A98D43000041E900006B672206824693CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <48A98F42.1000507@dfn.com>

banc8004 at comcast.net wrote:
> Is there the possibility that 'upgrades' such as the Pertronix ignition unit, and other like it, are less reliable than the contact breaker points they replace?
>
> Have any TR folks given up on such a system and reverted to points?
>
>   

Some have, I'm sure (I recall a few mentions of doing that over the 
years).  I don't know that they're more or less reliable than points. 
But, when they quit, they bloody well quit completely--there's no 
temporary fixes to get them going long enough to get home.  That's one 
of the advantages of points.  If they quit, there's usually something 
that can be done with them, with reasonably simple tools, even if 
performance is compromised.  That's why many boat owners don't have 
electronic ignitions, or, if they do, carry a couple of spares. 


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Aug 18 09:16:59 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 08:16:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <48A98F42.1000507@dfn.com>
References: <081820081454.27495.48A98D43000041E900006B672206824693CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net>
	<48A98F42.1000507@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <6CCDF0B76A924FCC8F1634C8A7D05068@newcomputer>

But Michael, the beauty of the Pertronix setup is that you don't have to
modify the dizzy to install it.  So the backup plan is to carry a set of
points and condenser and use that in case of failure.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Michael Porter
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 8:04 AM
To: banc8004 at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pertronix Failure

banc8004 at comcast.net wrote:
> Is there the possibility that 'upgrades' such as the Pertronix ignition
unit, and other like it, are less reliable than the contact breaker points
they replace?
>
> Have any TR folks given up on such a system and reverted to points?
>
>   

Some have, I'm sure (I recall a few mentions of doing that over the 
years).  I don't know that they're more or less reliable than points. 
But, when they quit, they bloody well quit completely--there's no 
temporary fixes to get them going long enough to get home.  That's one 
of the advantages of points.  If they quit, there's usually something 
that can be done with them, with reasonably simple tools, even if 
performance is compromised.  That's why many boat owners don't have 
electronic ignitions, or, if they do, carry a couple of spares. 


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
distance....
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 18 09:22:31 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 08:22:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <081820081454.27495.48A98D43000041E900006B672206824693CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080818152230.PTHA6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Is there the possibility that 'upgrades' such as the 
> Pertronix ignition unit, and other like it, are less reliable 
> than the contact breaker points they replace?

Depends on how you define "reliable", IMO.  If "reliable" is always getting
you home, then I feel there is no doubt that points are MORE reliable.

But since I also enjoy the other benefits of electronic; what I do is carry
the parts with me to convert back to points.  It's easy enough to swap point
plates on the side of the road (and I've done it more than once).

Randall

From dncullig at us.ibm.com  Mon Aug 18 09:54:06 2008
From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 11:54:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] "Uncle Jack" Drews
Message-ID: <OFA5CBF7E5.5151DE32-ON852574A9.005664F4-852574A9.005759D5@us.ibm.com>

  I met "Uncle Jack" on numerous occasions (Mosport, Road
America, Mid Ohio) and although I am not a racer, he was al-
ways more than willing to invite you into his motorhome and
talk Triumphs 'till the cows came home.  He will be missed,
especially at the upcoming Triumph celebration at Watkins
Glen, and my deepest condolences go out to his family.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH

From m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca  Mon Aug 18 10:32:35 2008
From: m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca (Mo and Dave MacKay)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 12:32:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Uncle Jack
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP61DF22C0D9EB1691195F6A46E0@phx.gbl>

This is upsetting news. Uncle Jack has been an active member of the Triumph
community and an asset to this list. I was in touch with him as recently as
last week regarding a car located near me that he was interested in.

 

He will be missed.

 

Dave MacKay

60 TR3A s/n 68639L(O)

Near Toronto, Canada

 

>A sad day this past weekend. I picked this up from the FOT list. In Grattan
Michigan we lost a true friend of >triumph racing "new blue," his Tr4.

 

and 

 

>More on Uncle Jack.

> 

> http://www.woodtv.com/Global/story.asp?S=8852694

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Aug 18 10:38:03 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 12:38:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
Message-ID: <bc5.2f10df1c.35daff6b@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/18/2008 8:26:27 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

It's  easy enough to swap point
plates on the side of the road (and I've done it  more than once).

Randall



How many Pertronix failures have you had then Randall?
 
Mike Moore 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Aug 18 10:41:36 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 12:41:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
Message-ID: <c35.3f3272f5.35db0040@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/18/2008 8:04:52 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
mdporter at dfn.com writes:

I don't  know that they're more or less reliable than points.  



I agree-points usually have a period of graceful degradation until it dawns  
on me that its time to change points. Not so with electronic ignition.
 
I also find changing points as part of routine maintenance to be somewhat  
therapeutic . and gives me a time to look over ht cables, replace rotor, cap  
etc. etc. Its always satisfying to have an improvement in running
because of maintenance.
 
 
Mike Moore  



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 18 10:43:41 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 09:43:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <bc5.2f10df1c.35daff6b@aol.com>
References: <bc5.2f10df1c.35daff6b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2220DB9AFB5E4E91A74E9EB6DC076C56@jdnet.deere.com>

> How many Pertronix failures have you had then Randall?

None, with a Pertronix, since I've never used one.  The idea of them melting
down if the key gets left on has been enough to deter me from going that
way. (Plus putting a power transistor inside the distributor seems kind of
silly to me.)

But I've had to swap out Allison, Crane and MSD units on the side of the
road.

Randall

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Aug 18 10:58:30 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 12:58:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
References: <c35.3f3272f5.35db0040@aol.com>
Message-ID: <01da01c90153$a4245e50$6dc37744@alan>

I've been running a daily driver with Pertronix in it since 2000; and 
traveled well over100K.
I replaced lots of things in that time, but so far not the Pertronix.
The time I don't spend changing points I use for polishing.  lol

Cheers,

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MMoore8425 at aol.com>
To: <mdporter at dfn.com>; <banc8004 at comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Pertronix Failure


> In a message dated 8/18/2008 8:04:52 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> mdporter at dfn.com writes:
>
> I don't  know that they're more or less reliable than points.
>
>
>
> I agree-points usually have a period of graceful degradation until it 
> dawns
> on me that its time to change points. Not so with electronic ignition.
>
> I also find changing points as part of routine maintenance to be somewhat
> therapeutic . and gives me a time to look over ht cables, replace rotor, 
> cap
> etc. etc. Its always satisfying to have an improvement in running
> because of maintenance.
>
>
> Mike Moore
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
> budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 
>  )
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.4/1616 - Release Date: 8/16/2008 
> 5:12 PM

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Mon Aug 18 10:59:57 2008
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 16:59:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
Message-ID: <081820081659.1821.48A9AA8D0006E0F10000071D22073000339D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net>

Not necessarily. I had one fail because the magnets in the collar got loose and went cockeyed. Made for some very poor running, but it did run. Took me awhile to diagnose because I also thought that if it was the Petronix, it would be a complete failure.  I replaced the collar but before too long it started to run poorly again, so I put in points and wrote off the Petronix.
Bob 



 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com>
> banc8004 at comcast.net wrote:
> > Is there the possibility that 'upgrades' such as the Pertronix ignition unit, 
> and other like it, are less reliable than the contact breaker points they 
> replace?
> >
> > Have any TR folks given up on such a system and reverted to points?
> >
> >   
> 
> Some have, I'm sure (I recall a few mentions of doing that over the 
> years).  I don't know that they're more or less reliable than points. 
> But, when they quit, they bloody well quit completely--there's no 
> temporary fixes to get them going long enough to get home.  That's one 
> of the advantages of points.  If they quit, there's usually something 
> that can be done with them, with reasonably simple tools, even if 
> performance is compromised.  That's why many boat owners don't have 
> electronic ignitions, or, if they do, carry a couple of spares. 
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Aug 18 11:10:45 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 13:10:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <01da01c90153$a4245e50$6dc37744@alan>
Message-ID: <48A974D5.11950.50D204E5@localhost>

On 18 Aug 2008 at 12:58, Alan Salvatore wrote:

> The time I don't spend changing points I use for polishing.  lol

Changing points is more fun.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 18 12:17:23 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 13:17:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] traffiator/blinker woes
References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>
	<002101c900e7$84efe750$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB6C192F5@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <001901c9015e$aaaeb620$428ca8c0@Ranteer.local>

yup.  have a bulb out.  thanks to all!!!!!

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Aug 18 12:19:22 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 14:19:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] distributor rotors -- where to get the "good" ones in the US?
Message-ID: <8CACF7612A6EDE3-11AC-16F4@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>

Currently, and for the second time in two years, a buddy's MGA 1500 is 
running on one of my good, used, possibly 40-plus-year-old spare 
original Lucas rotors. Yes, it's the second time in two years that a 
modern Lucas 400051 has failed suddenly in his car, and the second time 
I got him going instantly with an old rotor I pilfered out of my 
Standard Pennant distributor! (I know this has become an all-too-common 
problem for many.)

I know I can get the "good" rotors to replace the Lucas 400051 (and/or 
equivalent) from several sources in the UK, such as the Distributor 
Doctor. Are there sources in the US for these?

TIA....

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon Aug 18 12:29:59 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 13:29:59 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] distributor rotors -- where to get the "good" ones in the
 US?
Message-ID: <27260588.7696071219084199654.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

  Andrew,

I would call or email Jeff at Advanced Distributors:
http://www.advanceddistributors.com/.

When I had my dizzy rebuilt over the winter, he replaced my rotor and
cap.  Both are far superior to what the big 3 offer, maybe he can
provide your friend one.

Thanks,

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6


On Mon, Aug 18, 2008 at  2:19 PM, Andrew Mace wrote:

> Currently, and for the second time in two years, a buddy's MGA 1500 is
running on one of my good, used, possibly 40-plus-year-old spare
original Lucas rotors. Yes, it's the second time in two years that a
modern Lucas 400051 has failed suddenly in his car, and the second time
I got him going instantly with an old rotor I pilfered out of my
Standard Pennant distributor! (I know this has become an all-too-common
problem for many.)

I know I can get the "good" rotors to replace the Lucas 400051 (and/or
equivalent) from several sources in the UK, such as the Distributor
Doctor. Are there sources in the US for these?

TIA....

--AndyB  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not soB  much of a jet, it's more your, er,
Triumph Herald engine withB  wings.
B -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying CircusB  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us
<http://triumph-herald.us> B  <http://triumph-herald.us> >
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org <http://www.vtr.org> B  <http://www.vtr.org>

Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net> B 
<mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> B 
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs>

You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net
<mailto:thenicholls at verizon.net> B  <mailto:thenicholls at verizon.net>

http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive> B 
<http://www.team.net/archive>

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug 18 12:35:49 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 14:35:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
Message-ID: <cc5.3d2aa228.35db1b05@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/18/2008 11:42:15 AM Central Daylight Time, 
MMoore8425 at aol.com writes: 
> I agree-points usually have a period of graceful degradation until it dawns 
>  
> on me that its time to change points. Not so with electronic ignition.
> 
I guess you've never had a condenser fail.  I had one fail on my TR6.  It was 
running fine when I stopped at Honeybaked Hams to buy a ham bone but when I 
went to start, nothing.  No warning, no graceful degradation, nothing.

Changing a condenser is as convenient as changing our a Pertronix.

Dave   

From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 18 13:22:59 2008
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 12:22:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] distributor rotors -- where to get the "good" ones in the
 US?
In-Reply-To: <8CACF7612A6EDE3-11AC-16F4@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
Message-ID: <176810.93271.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Andy:
  I went to two of my FLAPS here and asked for rotors
for my 1966 Spitfire. They both ordered them and had
them in 2 days. Neither one had metal anywhere near a
ground point. I havd had one in my spit for about 500
miles and no problem. 

John Young

--- Andrew Mace <zoboherald at aol.com> wrote:

> Currently, and for the second time in two years, a
> buddy's MGA 1500 is 
> running on one of my good, used, possibly
> 40-plus-year-old spare 
> original Lucas rotors. Yes, it's the second time in
> two years that a 
> modern Lucas 400051 has failed suddenly in his car,
> and the second time 
> I got him going instantly with an old rotor I
> pilfered out of my 
> Standard Pennant distributor! (I know this has
> become an all-too-common 
> problem for many.)
> 
> I know I can get the "good" rotors to replace the
> Lucas 400051 (and/or 
> equivalent) from several sources in the UK, such as
> the Distributor 
> Doctor. Are there sources in the US for these?
> 
> TIA....
> 
> --Andy  Mace
> 
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's
> more your, er, 
> Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
>  -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying
> Circus  (22)
> 
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6
> (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
> Herald Database at its new URL:
> <http://triumph-herald.us>
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From emanteno at comcast.net  Mon Aug 18 13:25:36 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 19:25:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] distributor rotors -- where to get the "good" ones in the
 US?
Message-ID: <081820081925.23865.48A9CCB00002038200005D392202888744970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Andrew Mace <zoboherald at aol.com> 

> > I know I can get the "good" rotors to replace the Lucas 400051 (and/or 
> equivalent) from several sources in the UK, such as the Distributor 
> Doctor. Are there sources in the US for these? 

Peter Caldwell at World Wide Imports of Madison (WI) sells good rotors. His dizzy rotors have found their way into many Midwest TRiumphs.
NFI
http://www.nosimport.com/

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From jmitch at snet.net  Mon Aug 18 13:30:11 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 15:30:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <6CCDF0B76A924FCC8F1634C8A7D05068@newcomputer>
References: <081820081454.27495.48A98D43000041E900006B672206824693CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net>
	<48A98F42.1000507@dfn.com>
	<6CCDF0B76A924FCC8F1634C8A7D05068@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <48A9CDC3.50203@snet.net>

It was actually much easier to have another pertronix unit than a points 
set up on a dizzy plate.  Took less than 5 minutes to fix.  Of course 
points would be cheaper..
                    John Mitchell  76 TR6

Joe Curry wrote:
> But Michael, the beauty of the Pertronix setup is that you don't have to
> modify the dizzy to install it.  So the backup plan is to carry a set of
> points and condenser and use that in case of failure.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Michael Porter
> Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 8:04 AM
> To: banc8004 at comcast.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Pertronix Failure
>
> banc8004 at comcast.net wrote:
>   
>> Is there the possibility that 'upgrades' such as the Pertronix ignition
>>     
> unit, and other like it, are less reliable than the contact breaker points
> they replace?
>   
>> Have any TR folks given up on such a system and reverted to points?
>>
>>   
>>     
>
> Some have, I'm sure (I recall a few mentions of doing that over the 
> years).  I don't know that they're more or less reliable than points. 
> But, when they quit, they bloody well quit completely--there's no 
> temporary fixes to get them going long enough to get home.  That's one 
> of the advantages of points.  If they quit, there's usually something 
> that can be done with them, with reasonably simple tools, even if 
> performance is compromised.  That's why many boat owners don't have 
> electronic ignitions, or, if they do, carry a couple of spares. 
>
>
> Cheers.

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Aug 18 13:57:55 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 15:57:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <c95.368c5feb.35dae8c0@aol.com>
References: <c95.368c5feb.35dae8c0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080818195758.ECME7436.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 11:01 AM 8/18/2008, MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote:
>BUT I have a new,
>spare,unopened box in the boot in case it fails on the road.

Maybe it's just the paranoiac in me, but if I was carrying a spare, I 
believe I'd test it first...





Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Aug 18 14:33:39 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 16:33:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] inquiring minds want to know
Message-ID: <003101c90171$b35a6db0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Is a lockwasher that stays flat, even after it's removed from the bolt, no
longer any good?


--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 865 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Aug 18 14:36:13 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 16:36:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] inquiring minds want to know
Message-ID: <c6c.2fa8b548.35db373d@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/18/2008 1:34:33 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes:

Is a  lockwasher that stays flat, even after it's removed from the bolt,  no
longer any good?



True. It's no longer a spring.
 
Mike Moore 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Aug 18 14:52:48 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 14:52:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] inquiring minds want to know
In-Reply-To: <003101c90171$b35a6db0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <003101c90171$b35a6db0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <48A9E120.30202@dfn.com>

dorpaul wrote:
> Is a lockwasher that stays flat, even after it's removed from the bolt, no
> longer any good?
>
>
>   

Very occasionally, you might find one that has a little smear on the cut 
end from the shear that might hold the lockwasher in that position, but, 
almost always, it's a sign that the lockwasher is just plain tired out.


Hey, they're cheap.  Replace `em.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Mon Aug 18 14:54:11 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 16:54:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] inquiring minds want to know
References: <c6c.2fa8b548.35db373d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7A5CFD4CAA7442FA89AF1B308D918B81@D1TG6Y71>

But an OK flat washer when you are in a bind ...

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MMoore8425 at aol.com>
To: <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] inquiring minds want to know


> In a message dated 8/18/2008 1:34:33 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes:
>
> Is a  lockwasher that stays flat, even after it's removed from the bolt, 
> no
> longer any good?
>
>
>
> True. It's no longer a spring.
>
> Mike Moore
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
> budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 
>  )
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as triumph at 2simpleusa.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 18 15:01:04 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 14:01:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] inquiring minds want to know
In-Reply-To: <003101c90171$b35a6db0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <003101c90171$b35a6db0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <A323AF4135084BB4A0CD0B519876AA3B@jdnet.deere.com>

> Is a lockwasher that stays flat, even after it's removed from the bolt, no
> longer any good?

Yup.  Time to toss it and use a new one.  

In some locations (eg exhaust manifold studs) they pretty much need to be
replaced every time; so I buy them by the box.

Randall

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon Aug 18 15:15:22 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 17:15:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] Jack Drews Passes Services on Thursday & then Watkins Glen
Message-ID: <cce.37ffa2fb.35db406a@cs.com>

Triumph List:

My longtime friend of 20 years, partner in racing, travel, product 
development & general hijinks died at Grattan Raceway this weekend. Doing what he loved 
best.   

He touched so many people in the Triumph Community, all should know of his 
passing. Wife Frances, is a saint by my definitions, and supported him in all 
ways that would allow him to become the great man that he was.

Jack's services will be in Geneseo, IIlinois on Thursday at 10:30PM at the 
Concordia Lutheran Church.  Visitation will be on Wednesday, but I do not have 
visibility to all of the arrangements, yet.

Please check the website for current forthcoming details

http://www.geneseolutheranchurch.com/

Home address for The Drew's

Frances Drews
514 North Vail Street
Geneseo, IL   61254

Joe Alexander 
Friends of Triumph  

PS:  For those going to Watkins Glen, please join us in the Triumph Paddock. 
Particularly on Saturday evening, as we will be devoting time to his memory.

The Kastner Cup Race will be dedicated to him on Sunday. The Pace Lap will 
feature a MISSING MAN FORMATION. (Jack was the first recipient of the Kastner 
Cup...how fitting can this be?)   </HTML>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 18 15:16:49 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 14:16:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <cc5.3d2aa228.35db1b05@cs.com>
References: <cc5.3d2aa228.35db1b05@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4E84B3EC76F6484BBF3E4DF16459606D@jdnet.deere.com>

> Changing a condenser is as convenient as changing our a Pertronix.

I'll disagree with that.  To change a Pertronix, you've got to mess with
wires running through the side of the dizzy all the way to the coil and
possibly fuse block.  The condenser is wired right there under the dizzy
cap.  Plus, you can walk into any filling station or auto parts store or
junkyard in the country and find a condenser that will work to get you back
on the road ... try doing that with a Pertronix.

If you find a VW Bug condenser (which are still common tho not as much as
they used to be), you don't even have to mess with that darn screw through
the point plate (and the potential for dropping it inside the dizzy housing
to wreck havoc when you can't fish it out).  Just snip the wire for the
failed condenser, and wire the replacement directly to the coil terminal and
a convenient ground bolt somewhere.

Randall - one failed condenser in 35 years of TR ownership; nearest gas
station had a suitable replacement.

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon Aug 18 18:31:56 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 20:31:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] To lube or not to lube
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPOEFLFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Hi List,
I am about to install the differential in my '67 TR4A. I am waiting on one
set of poly bushings and it occurred to me that maybe I should lubricate the
bushings before I tighten it all up.
What do you guys think? Lube them or don't lube them.
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Mon Aug 18 19:24:22 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 21:24:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY - Sunday, October 5, 2008
Message-ID: <14854177.1219109062681.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

29th ANNUAL SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY
Sunday, October 5, 2008

San Diego British Car Day Website at:
www.sandiegobritishcarday.org

Twenty eight years ago, a hearty band of British car enthusiasts got together
over picnics at a park to view each othersb cars, and enjoy each othersb
friendship. This year, we begin to return to that heritage. Over the past 28
years the event has grown considerably and now attracts participants from all
over California and beyond. We are proud that this event has become one of the
premier British car shows in California. In the past few years, we have
incurred considerable additional expenses relating to, among other things,
permits and insurance. Thus, starting this year,
we have made some changes in keeping with the original spirit of the event.
For instance, there will be no program or raffle at this yearbs show. Also,
due to the increased expenses, we have had to increase our registration fees
by $5.00. We continue to provide a wonderful experience, including a variety
of vendors, Hoggbs Beach BBQ, the very popular Cameron Highlander Bagpipers
and over 400 diverse English cars for your viewing pleasure.

The San Diego British Car Club Council is a California nonprofit mutual
benefit corporation.

OCTOBER 5th EVENT SCHEDULE

7:30 b 10:00 Registration -- Park in your Marque area as directed/signed
10:00 b 3:00 Cars on display
11:30 b 12:00 Judging for best b
Classic Elegantb
 English picnic
12:00 Ballots must be presented to the Club ballot boxes for cars of choice.
Clubs count the ballots and turn in at the Judging boothbb
on
        the hillb
 by the Minis
12:00 b 2:00 Picnic or Lunch at your leisure . . .
         and please pick up your trash!
12:30 Ballots MUST be turned into the Judging booth
2:00 Awards presentation
3:00 to ??? Enjoy the rest of the day . . . exit carefully please

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

On the above event, or any particular Club or marque in attendance today b
most have Web pages, and can be linked by going to the San Diego British Car
Day Website at: www.sandiegobritishcarday.org or by calling the information
line: 760-746-1458

Pre-Registration Fee: $20.00 per car
Make Check Payable to: BCCC
MAIL BY SEPT. 12th to: San Diego British Car Club Council
P. O. Box 710131
San Diego, CA 92171-0131

QUESTIONS?
Please call San Diego British Car Day
Information Line: 760 - 746 - 1458
www.sandiegobritishcarday.org

Thank you!

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 18 19:26:33 2008
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 20:26:33 -0500
Subject: [TR]  Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <4E84B3EC76F6484BBF3E4DF16459606D@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <C4CF8B79.64C3%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>

All,

Can points be retrofitted to an electronic ignition? My 78 spitfire has the
original Lucas electronic unit that is mounted on the side of the
distributor.

-- 
Bob Berger
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Mon Aug 18 19:58:28 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 21:58:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Correct info - SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY - Sunday, October 5,
 2008
Message-ID: <28369401.1219111108343.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Dear Folks,

Sorry but the recent publication of the info about the San Diego British Car
Meet was a confused communication that is totally wrong - Hope you don't mind
deleting the first one I sent and pay attention to this one.

Sorry about the confusion - thanks for your understanding ...

Rick Feibusch
British Car Network
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

29th San Diego British Car Day and Picnic
Admiral Baker Field, San Diego, CA
Sunday, October 5, 2008

San Diego British Car Day Website at:
www.sandiegobritishcarday.org

Twenty-nine years ago, a hearty band of British car enthusiasts got together
over picnics at a park to view each otherbs cars, and enjoy each otherbs
friendship. This year, we return to that heritage. Over
the past 29 years the event has grown considerably and now attracts
participants from all over California and beyond. We are proud that this event
has become one of the premier British car shows in California. In the past few
years, we have incurred considerable additional expenses relating to, among
other things, forming a corporation, and insurance. Thus, we have made some
changes in keeping with the original spirit of the event. For

instance, there will be no vendors, program or raffle at this yearbs show.
We continue to provide a wonderful experience, the very popular Cameron
Highlander Bagpipers and over 400 diverse English cars for your viewing
pleasure. Have a Great Day!!

Pre-Registration Fee: $20.00 per car
Make Check Payable to: BCCC
MAIL BY SEPT. 12th to: San Diego British Car Club Council
P. O. Box 710131
San Diego, CA 92171-0131

QUESTIONS?
Please call San Diego British Car Day
Information Line: 760 - 746 - 1458
www.sandiegobritishcarday.org

Thank you!

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Aug 18 20:08:56 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 22:08:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <C4CF8B79.64C3%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
References: <4E84B3EC76F6484BBF3E4DF16459606D@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <48A9F2F8.8167.726EFB@localhost>

On 18 Aug 2008 at 20:26, Bob Berger wrote:

> Can points be retrofitted to an electronic ignition? My 78 spitfire has the
> original Lucas electronic unit that is mounted on the side of the
> distributor.

Is that the original original, or the CEI Kit which (so I understand) 
was a replacement for the original?  The CEI control box has a GM 
module inside.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Aug 18 20:19:25 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 22:19:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <48A9F2F8.8167.726EFB@localhost>
References: <4E84B3EC76F6484BBF3E4DF16459606D@jdnet.deere.com>
	<48A9F2F8.8167.726EFB@localhost>
Message-ID: <20080819021901.XHSL7436.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 10:08 PM 8/18/2008, Jim Muller wrote:
>On 18 Aug 2008 at 20:26, Bob Berger wrote:
>
> > Can points be retrofitted to an electronic ignition? My 78 spitfire has the
> > original Lucas electronic unit that is mounted on the side of the
> > distributor.
>
>Is that the original original, or the CEI Kit which (so I understand)
>was a replacement for the original?  The CEI control box has a GM
>module inside.

78 Spitfire came with the distributor-mounted OPUS box, not the 
easily-rebuildable remote box.  I believe it would be easier to 
replace the distributor than to refit the plate for points, though it 
probably could be done...


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 18 21:08:45 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 22:08:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] traffiator/blinker woes continues
References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>
	<002101c900e7$84efe750$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB6C192F5@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <000301c901a8$e91857f0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

the first level culprit was a bad connection whcih caused the passenger side 
front to not work.

but - it still flashes like a strobe.  at least i have functional blinkers 
<grin>

the four way flashers work just fine, and flash in an appropriately timed 
manner.  all four corners.

clean/check all the grounds? 

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Mon Aug 18 21:16:50 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 22:16:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  Pertronix Failure
References: <4E84B3EC76F6484BBF3E4DF16459606D@jdnet.deere.com><48A9F2F8.8167.726EFB@localhost>
	<20080819021901.XHSL7436.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
Message-ID: <1EF9A2C1380A4A90971AA839548C2E51@KARL>

The comment about the CEI kit is because (I believe) there was a recall, or 
at least a large number of failures with the OPUS distributor, and a great 
many were retrofitted to the CEI configuration.  The control box on the 
distributor was removed, and the module in a heat sink was mounted nearby. 
Same goes for 1500 MG Midgets, which use the Spitfire engine and gearbox..

Karl


>> > Can points be retrofitted to an electronic ignition? My 78 spitfire has 
>> > the
>> > original Lucas electronic unit that is mounted on the side of the
>> > distributor.
>>
>>Is that the original original, or the CEI Kit which (so I understand)
>>was a replacement for the original?  The CEI control box has a GM
>>module inside.
>
> 78 Spitfire came with the distributor-mounted OPUS box, not the
> easily-rebuildable remote box.  I believe it would be easier to
> replace the distributor than to refit the plate for points, though it
> probably could be done... 

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Aug 18 21:49:36 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 23:49:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] ball joint seems to raise upper wishbone arm
Message-ID: <005001c901ae$9a537db0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
I am only needing to screw on and fasten the nut to the horizontal bolt-arm of
my ball joint to the upper wishbone arms.

I jacked up the front right wheel lugs in order to get it thru the wishbone
hole.  However when I do so, it does compress the spring, and raises
everything.. In fact, the side arm of the ball joint unfortunately raises the
upper wishbone arm.  How can I get it to sit still and allow the b.j. arm to
go thru it (so that I can get a nut on it?)

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3


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From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Aug 18 22:16:21 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 00:16:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] [6pack] traffiator/blinker woes continues
Message-ID: <c8d.2ba02c43.35dba315@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/18/2008 8:11:17 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

the  first level culprit was a bad connection whcih caused the passenger side 
 
front to not work.

but - it still flashes like a strobe.  at  least i have functional blinkers 
<grin>




I had lots of problems with my TR3 like that. I only solved the problem  when 
I decided to "shotgun" the whole thing. 
I bought a complete set of the absolutely correct bulbs by shop manual part  
number. I also bought a correct flasher from TRF.  I spent a couple of  hours 
and went from one socket to the next. I checked the connections, checked  the 
voltage and used dieletric grease and installed new bulbs in  every socket. 
That was 12 years ago and they still workperfectly.
 
Mike Moore 
59 TR3A 



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From opposumking at verizon.net  Tue Aug 19 04:13:36 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 06:13:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure
References: <c95.368c5feb.35dae8c0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003201c901e4$3ec5a000$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

> Is there  the possibility that 'upgrades' such as the Pertronix ignition
> unit, and other  like it, are less reliable than the contact breaker 
> points they
> replace?
>
> Have any TR folks given up on such a system and reverted to  points?


You are asking two distinctly different questions.  Any mechanic with even 
rudamentary experience has seen how much more reliable electronic ignitions 
are than mechanical ignitions.  A mechanical ignition requires adjustment 
every few thousand miles.  Electronic ignitions routinely go hundreds of 
thousands of miles without maintenance.  There is no doubt the electronic 
ignition is more reliable.  This is in fact why the industry went to 
electronic ignition. They are far more reliable and stable.

A mechanical ignition is more tinkerable.  People spend many hours 
pleasurably fiddling with points.  Filing them, coating them, making them 
out of new materials, drilling them, greasing them, and of course adjusting 
them.  Electronic ignitions have virtually none of this.  A mechanical 
ignition can function poorly, and be improved, an electronic ignition tends 
to either work, or not.  There is very little tinkering to be had with an 
electronic ignition.

To that end, the tinkerable fun of a mechanical ignition, many folks will 
stick with a points ignition.  Some will even retrofit a modern engine with 
points, going to great lengths to replace a superb oem electronic ignition 
with a points ignition.  There is nothing inherently wrong with this.  Just 
a difference of approach.

Points ignitions for automobiles haven't been used in decades.  You don't 
find replacement points sitting on the shelf of any gas station.  In fact 
many a dedicated auto parts store no longer carries them, and they must be 
ordered in.  There is also the problem of the quality of the point sets on 
the market today.  Rubbing block failures are common, as are spring 
failures.  Out of the box, many point sets don't even have the contacts 
hitting the faces squarely. 

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 19 04:57:03 2008
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 05:57:03 -0500
Subject: [TR]  [Spits]  Pertronix Failure
In-Reply-To: <48A9F2F8.8167.726EFB@localhost>
Message-ID: <C4D0112F.64D6%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>

Jim & all,

It is an original original OPUS module mounted on the side of the
distributor.  I installed the distributor in the mid 90's when my 2nd
petronix unit died.  One of the places in town that works on MG's & Triumphs
had it in a box and didn't know if it would work, he told me to bring him $5
if it worked. I took him the $5 the next week.  It has finally died.

-- 
Bob Berger
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO



> From: Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com>
> Organization: Southern Rail
> Reply-To: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
> Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 22:08:56 -0400
> To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits]  Pertronix Failure
> 
> On 18 Aug 2008 at 20:26, Bob Berger wrote:
> 
>> Can points be retrofitted to an electronic ignition? My 78 spitfire has the
>> original Lucas electronic unit that is mounted on the side of the
>> distributor.
> 
> Is that the original original, or the CEI Kit which (so I understand)
> was a replacement for the original?  The CEI control box has a GM
> module inside.
> 
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as bberger720 at sbcglobal.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Aug 19 07:43:21 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 13:43:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] traffiator/blinker woes continues
Message-ID: <081920081343.23747.48AACDF90003B49700005CC322155863949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> the first level culprit was a bad connection whcih caused the passenger side 
> front to not work.
> 
> but - it still flashes like a strobe.  at least i have functional blinkers 
> <grin>
> 
> the four way flashers work just fine, and flash in an appropriately timed 
> manner.  all four corners.
> 
> clean/check all the grounds? 

Probably not.  If the 4-ways work peftectly and the turn signals flash fast, I'd replace the turn-signal flasher unit next.

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Tue Aug 19 10:27:22 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 11:27:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  Pertronix Failure
References: <C4D0112F.64D6%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <EBD1CD1407EE4E19B858CFFF1EDE6598@KARL>

Maybe you don't need a new distributor.

My wife's '78 1500 Midget (extremely unmolested except for this change) was 
retrofitted with the CEI unit, but the distribtuor itself is still the 
original OPUS unit with the box sticking off the side -- but there's nothing 
in the box any more.  Whoever retrofitted it put a Lucas "Lumenition" module 
on the fenderwell right next to the unit and wired the red, blue, and brown 
loom of the "Lumenition" system into the vehicles's wiring, leaving the 
original distributor plug in the vehicle's wiring harness unused (and of 
course the OPUS plug is gone from the distributor).

I've always assumed this was a retrofit kit dealers got at the time, 
although as I recall from the bills with the car, a non-dealer mechanic did 
this work maybe 20 years ago.

If you want to know more about what was done, I'll sort through it for you.

Karl


> It is an original original OPUS module mounted on the side of the
> distributor.  I installed the distributor in the mid 90's when my 2nd
> petronix unit died.  One of the places in town that works on MG's & 
> Triumphs
> had it in a box and didn't know if it would work, he told me to bring him 
> $5
> if it worked. I took him the $5 the next week.  It has finally died.
>
> -- 
> Bob Berger
> 78 Spitfire
> St. Louis, MO

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Tue Aug 19 12:11:46 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 14:11:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 405
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1219168801.22656.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OFB96EC6EB.B44F6A5C-ON852574AA.0063A7C0-852574AA.0063F500@exxonmobil.com>

No, the Opus distributor can't be retrofitted to points, sorry.  When my
Spitfire's Opus distributor failed a couple years ago I fitted a Crane
ignition and have been happy ever since.  There is of course also a
Pertronix ignition made to fit into the Opus distributor.

Mark
80 Spitfire 1500
Corunna, ON

Subject: [TR]  Pertronix Failure

All,

Can points be retrofitted to an electronic ignition? My 78 spitfire has the
original Lucas electronic unit that is mounted on the side of the
distributor.

--
Bob Berger
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO

From mcmeganutt at aol.com  Tue Aug 19 14:21:35 2008
From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 16:21:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Connecticut Triumph Register British Car Show
Message-ID: <8CAD050502107F1-1300-64E@webmail-db14.sysops.aol.com>

Everyone is cordially invited to the 28th Annual Connecticut Triumph Register Picnic and Motorcar Gathering to take place Sunday September 7th, 2008 at Wickham Park, Manchester, CT exit 60 off of I-84. For additional information go to www.CTRiumph.com for show info and directions and www.wickhampark.org to learn more about this extraordinary park. 

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Tue Aug 19 15:42:57 2008
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 22:42:57 +0100
Subject: [TR] spare plug holder
Message-ID: <B9EC2FA7-290C-4790-A631-48329B955A25@tcd.ie>

Hi all, starting to enjoy playing around with cosmetics now. I  
remember seeing a side screen at a show with a spare spark plug holder  
mounted on the bulkhead (firewall), looked great with the 4 plugs to  
view. Anyone know of a supplier for this accessory or should I think  
about making something?
John and his TR2

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Aug 19 15:50:03 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 17:50:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] mystery part
Message-ID: <008d01c90245$8a0fcca0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
Because of this peice's cheapness, I bought it off ebay.  It's suppose to be a
for a TR3, but I don't know.  Does anyone?
thanks, Paul


It is item ID 220265025516  or

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AM
EWNX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220265025516>


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From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 19 16:06:34 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 17:06:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] spare plug holder
References: <B9EC2FA7-290C-4790-A631-48329B955A25@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <001601c90247$da8f5590$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

there was something like that on an old jag in hemming's sports and exotics 
in the last few months.  supposedly was actually a standard item for the 
T's.  (as in mgtf)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Gillis" <jgillis at tcd.ie>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 4:42 PM
Subject: [TR] spare plug holder


> Hi all, starting to enjoy playing around with cosmetics now. I
> remember seeing a side screen at a show with a spare spark plug holder
> mounted on the bulkhead (firewall), looked great with the 4 plugs to
> view. Anyone know of a supplier for this accessory or should I think
> about making something?
> John and his TR2 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 19 16:14:06 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 15:14:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] ball joint seems to raise upper wishbone arm
In-Reply-To: <005001c901ae$9a537db0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <005001c901ae$9a537db0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <074F979AC3DC41049A3C648A1D982E4A@jdnet.deere.com>

> I am only needing to screw on and fasten the nut to the horizontal bolt-
> arm of
> my ball joint to the upper wishbone arms.
> 
> I jacked up the front right wheel lugs in order to get it thru the
> wishbone hole.

This is a bad idea, IMO.  You should be using the spring compressor to hold
the suspension together while assembling, not a jack under the lugs.

>  However when I do so, it does compress the spring, and raises
> everything.. In fact, the side arm of the ball joint unfortunately raises
> the
> upper wishbone arm.  How can I get it to sit still and allow the b.j. arm
> to
> go thru it (so that I can get a nut on it?)

If I am understanding the question correctly, you need to pull the vertical
link out at the top (away from the A-arms).  This will be almost impossible
while jacking under the lugs, so first let it down and install the spring
compressor instead.

Tighten the compressor until you have to raise the A-arms a little to line
up with the ball joint.  Tap the extended shaft of the ball joint so it
lines up with the holes (and spacer) in the arms.  Turn the BJ housing so
it's roughly square to the vertical link, then push the shaft into the hole
through the arms and spacer.  It should slide in easily for most of the
distance; and generally the threads are long enough for the nut to pull it
the rest of the way.  If not, you may need to tap lightly on the outside of
the ball joint housing to encourage the shaft into the hole.

Tighten the nut and insert the cotter pin before releasing the spring
compressor.

Once the arms and vertical link are fully installed, you can use the jack
while installing the shock absorber and rebound brackets/stop.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 19 16:28:28 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 15:28:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] mystery part
In-Reply-To: <008d01c90245$8a0fcca0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <008d01c90245$8a0fcca0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <CBEC59AE8A3647F9A2AE8AE89A16F630@jdnet.deere.com>

> Because of this peice's cheapness, I bought it off ebay.  It's suppose to
> be a
> for a TR3, but I don't know.  Does anyone?

Certainly not a standard part for a 58 TR3; but might have been installed by
a dealer or whatever.

The factory screenwasher was a hand-operated pump mounted to the dash, with
a plastic reservoir under the hood and two chrome nozzles (with integral
check valves) mounted on the scuttle.  The nozzles look like dome-headed
bolts, but have a small hole for the water to come out.

Here's a photo of the knob, that TeriAnn Wakeman used to have posted on her
site (tho I can't find it there now).

Randall

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR washer_pump.jpeg]

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Tue Aug 19 19:20:50 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 21:20:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable Broken
Message-ID: <8CAD07A1D96291B-17D8-1409@FWM-D21.sysops.aol.com>

 Hello List:

After thinking for almost a year that the head of my TR6 speedo was frozen I
discovered yesterday that the speedo is fine on my car.? The cable is
broken on the opposite end, near the right angle drive, which I knew
but I figured that the speedo had seized and that was where the cable was weakest and had
broke.? Not true since last night I pulled the broken cable out,
snipped off the last 8 inches, stuck the cut end in my drill and fired
the speedo up to 130mph and ran it at that speed for a couple minutes.?
The speedo needle didnt flicker at all, rock steady and the unit didnt
heat up at all so no internal friction.? 

So, for those of you who might have had a similar problem in the past what was your solution.? The angle drive sure seemed to move freely when I installed it and I dont recall any sharp bends in the cable when it was installed.? I do seem to recall that there wasnt a lot of extra length of cable when the cable was installed.? Are there two different length cables?? Maybe one for an OD and for a car with the 4-speed?? Anyone had any problems caused by the right angle drive?

As always, thanks in advance for the collective wisdom and any and all assistance offered.

Cheers,

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Tue Aug 19 19:29:45 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 21:29:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 New Tire Survey
Message-ID: <8CAD07B5D011A9E-17D8-1487@FWM-D21.sysops.aol.com>

 Hi Everyone,

The Yokohama Avids that I have installed on my TR6 wont pass inspection this year.? I have been satisfied with their performance but I am disappointed in how few miles they lasted.? I don't believe I have been overly rough with them, no burn-outs, no auto crossing.

The last time I was contemplating a tire purchase I asked for people to send me information on what wheels and tires they had on their car.? I posted those results on the triumphowners.com web site as a reference tool.? It has been a few years since the last survey so I thought it wouldn't hurt to see what people were riding on nowadays.? I will skip the wheel portion this time and concentrate only on the tires.? So, if you would care to participate then please respond to me with the following information:

Tire Brand
Tire Model
Tire Size
Estimate # of miles driven on tires
Recommend them or not?
Any other general comments?
OK to use your name as a contributor?

I will take some time to collect the response, tabulate them and post them on triumphowners.com for all to use as a reference since the question does seem to come up quite regularly.? 

Thanks in advance for everyone's help and participation.

Cheers,

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 19 21:33:48 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 20:33:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable Broken
In-Reply-To: <8CAD07A1D96291B-17D8-1409@FWM-D21.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080820033349.DCOH3981.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Anyone had any problems caused by the right angle drive?

Actually, my first thought was "How do you know it wasn't the angle drive
that failed ?".  My experience has been that they are much more fragile than
the cable.

Also FWIW, my latest Stag had just had a new angle drive fitted when I
picked it up.  Speedo worked great for the first hour or so, then quit.
Later investigation showed the angle drive was sheared.  The speedo head
still worked, I'm certain a drill motor would have turned it fine (tho I
didn't try), but spinning it with a small screwdriver and my "calibrated"
fingers said it was too stiff.  Yet another angle drive, different speedo
head ... it's still working several years later.

So, two points :
1) It may take more than a couple of minutes for the dry bushing to heat up
enough to notice.
2) The angle drive will transmit far less force than your drill motor.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Aug 19 21:42:12 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 23:42:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] no hole in BJ horizontal arm... right?
Message-ID: <00a401c90276$bbaa81c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Are you sure that the horizontal arm of the ball joint has a hole for a cotter
pin.  (We're talking about a stock TR3).  I didn't see one when I replaced
mine.  Maybe I should redo it?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 19 22:11:47 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 21:11:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] no hole in BJ horizontal arm... right?
In-Reply-To: <00a401c90276$bbaa81c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080820041147.JYTX757.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Are you sure that the horizontal arm of the ball joint has a 
> hole for a cotter pin.  (We're talking about a stock TR3).

I'm sure the originals did.  (See for example step (iv) of para 15 page G11
of factory workshop manual/page 239 of the Bentley.)  And the ones on my car
do.

But it might be that some aftermarket ball joints don't use a castellated
nut and cotter pin, in which case they should come with a suitable Nyloc or
equivalent.

> I didn't see one when I replaced mine.  Maybe I should redo it?

I guess I'm still confused ... your question was about installing that
joint, and now you say you need to redo it?

Anyway, I would want something to secure that nut.  The factory felt it
deserved a cotter pin, so that's what I would use.  But I'm funny that way.

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Aug 19 22:51:13 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 04:51:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] Carfax, please
Message-ID: <082020080451.1350.48ABA2C100085E240000054622165548869D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

3GNGK26GX1G110700 

Thinking about the California trip next year, and the present Burb is a bit long in the tooth to take on the rockies pulling a TR.
--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Aug 19 23:01:41 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 23:01:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] no hole in BJ horizontal arm... right?
In-Reply-To: <00a401c90276$bbaa81c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <00a401c90276$bbaa81c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <005901c90281$d697f750$6501a8c0@sniffer>

Paul,
Yep, it's there...or should be there.  I had mine off about a month ago
putting the new nylatron bushing on the upper fulcrum.
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
dorpaul
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 9:42 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] no hole in BJ horizontal arm... right?

Are you sure that the horizontal arm of the ball joint has a hole for a
cotter pin.  (We're talking about a stock TR3).  I didn't see one when I
replaced mine.  Maybe I should redo it?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

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From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Aug 20 05:44:01 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 06:44:01 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable Broken
Message-ID: <17748244.6079811219232641765.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

Randall and Aaron,

I am in the same situation wtih my 1972 Triumph TR6.  Speedo is good. 
The cable I bought from TRF was installed by me previously, but I could 
not get it to work.  Put old cable back on, worked until last week when 
it broke.

I thought only OD trannys had a right-angle drive, is that not correct? 
Anyone ever order the one piece cable from anyone besides TRF?  Did it 
work?

Thanks in advance,

Craig H. Nicholls
1972 Triumph TR6


On Tue, Aug 19, 2008 at 11:33 PM, Randall wrote:

>> Anyone had any problems caused by the right angle drive?
>
> Actually, my first thought was "How do you know it wasn't the angle 
> drive
> that failed ?".  My experience has been that they are much more 
> fragile than
> the cable.
>
> Also FWIW, my latest Stag had just had a new angle drive fitted when I
> picked it up.  Speedo worked great for the first hour or so, then 
> quit.
> Later investigation showed the angle drive was sheared.  The speedo 
> head
> still worked, I'm certain a drill motor would have turned it fine (tho 
> I
> didn't try), but spinning it with a small screwdriver and my 
> "calibrated"
> fingers said it was too stiff.  Yet another angle drive, different 
> speedo
> head ... it's still working several years later.
>
> So, two points :
> 1) It may take more than a couple of minutes for the dry bushing to 
> heat up
> enough to notice.
> 2) The angle drive will transmit far less force than your drill motor.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 20 08:16:11 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 07:16:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] exhaust systems
Message-ID: <720385.66497.qm@web59603.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Anyone ready to get into the exhaust system discussion?lol  I have a pretty
good stock exhaust now but want a little more sound.  I've heard of people who
have the monza system who complain of "drone" at highway speeds that gets
annoying.
Actually I'd like to make up my own system.  already have dual pipes
going back to stock muffler which i could split into dual mufflers at the
rear.  Has anyone on the list made up theyr'e own exhaust?  what mufflers did
you buy that look nice and sound great......or at least sound louder than
stock?  Most muffler's i've priced from major manufacturers seem toooo
expensive.  thanks!
gary nafziger

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Wed Aug 20 08:51:08 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 07:51:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] exhaust systems
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E72071A@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I had a Monza system on my 1971 TR6.  When the mufflers went bad, I went
down to a local hot rod exhaust shop that did custom work for all the
cruisers and hot rods in town.  First clue I was in the right spot was
that he listened to what I wanted the car to sound like, then said he
wanted me to be there during the installation.
I had the Monza exhaust that split into two pipes out the back end.  He
measured the space I had and put in the longest glass packs he could fit
- had to be ordered, they were 22 inches long.  Then put 7 inch
resonators on each one. Angle welded them on so they did not come
straight out, but angled upward slightly.
Sound great!  Deep sound, not too loud on the road, but roars nicely
under strong acceleration.

Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Wed Aug 20 09:12:55 2008
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 16:12:55 +0100
Subject: [TR] Trim arrival
Message-ID: <1219245175.48ac3477ebcce@mymail.tcd.ie>

Like being a kid all over again, My complete trim kit in full leather
(including
the actual seats) and wool carpets has just arrived from Moto-Build in the
UK.
For the 12 years of restoring my TR2 I started with a project that was
complete
except for the interior. Any general advice on fitting?. I already bought the
excellent stainless screw fitting kit from the States, off to the garage to
un-wrap.
John
1954 TR2 long door

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Aug 20 10:14:43 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 16:14:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] exhaust systems
Message-ID: <082020081614.20317.48AC42F30003D5D400004F5D2200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> 

> Anyone ready to get into the exhaust system discussion?lol I have a pretty 
> good stock exhaust now but want a little more sound. I've heard of people who 
> have the monza system who complain of "drone" at highway speeds that gets 
> annoying. 
> Actually I'd like to make up my own system. already have dual pipes 
> going back to stock muffler which i could split into dual mufflers at the 
> rear. Has anyone on the list made up theyr'e own exhaust? what mufflers did 
> you buy that look nice and sound great......or at least sound louder than 
> stock? Most muffler's i've priced from major manufacturers seem toooo 
> expensive. thanks! 

I'm having it done Saturday on my TR6. Large bore single pipe into a Dynamax Ultraflo muffler. Flange between the intermediate pipe and the muffler, so I can service the diff if I need to. I'll try to remeber to let you know how it sounds.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug 20 10:48:53 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 12:48:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] exhaust systems
In-Reply-To: <720385.66497.qm@web59603.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <720385.66497.qm@web59603.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <200808201248.54000.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 20 August 2008 10:16 am, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Anyone ready to get into the exhaust system discussion?lol  I have a pretty
> good stock exhaust now but want a little more sound.  I've heard of people
> who have the monza system who complain of "drone" at highway speeds that
> gets annoying.
> Actually I'd like to make up my own system.  already have dual pipes
> going back to stock muffler which i could split into dual mufflers at the
> rear.  Has anyone on the list made up theyr'e own exhaust?  what mufflers
> did you buy that look nice and sound great......or at least sound louder
> than stock?  Most muffler's i've priced from major manufacturers seem toooo
> expensive.  thanks!
> gary nafziger
Gary,

I have the Bell stainless on both the 3 and 4. Believe it or not the 4 is a 
bit louder. Not sure why.

Overall the fit is what makes the Bell the best system I have ever used.

If you want to make your own system, at least go for a stainless headpipe.

They really look nice in the engine compartment along with the jet-hot 
manifold.

As far as the mufflers, some on the list have used Monza exhaust tips with 
stock mufflers. See: http://www.pacesetterexhaust.com/tips.htm

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 20 11:39:47 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 10:39:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable Broken
In-Reply-To: <17748244.6079811219232641765.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>
References: <17748244.6079811219232641765.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>
Message-ID: <B78C4F51DA6F4D61BF30616DF3956C81@jdnet.deere.com>

> I thought only OD trannys had a right-angle drive, is that not correct?

AFAIK, yes; and only the later overdrive trannys at that.  TR2-4 did not use
the angle drive.

> Anyone ever order the one piece cable from anyone besides TRF?  Did it
> work?

No, for some strange reason it didn't fit my Stag <G>

Until I modified it, of course.

Randall

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Wed Aug 20 12:02:43 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 14:02:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fender Needed
Message-ID: <B50CC321-942E-4EA1-BA65-A7615E939076@mindspring.com>

I received a call from someone who is looking for a left front fender  
for a '59 TR3A.  If you have one or know of one for sale please reply  
back to:

Tom Abbott at coinsunc1 at aol.com

Thanks,

Ashford Little
'70 TR6

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Aug 20 14:09:13 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 16:09:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] exhaust systems
Message-ID: <c21.30431f28.35ddd3e9@aol.com>

Gary and List,
 
I've been thinking of a custom exhaust setup for my TR6 recently as  well.  I 
have a stock muffler and always have wondered what it would look  like and if 
anyone has been successful with welding a pair of twin pipes to  the rear of 
the muffler on the passenger side (in a mirror image to what exits  from the 
muffler to the rear on the driver's side)....creating a  symmetrical 4 pipe 
setup??
 
But, Gary, good luck with your project!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/20/2008 10:17:14 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:

Actually  I'd like to make up my own  system.




**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Aug 20 15:13:43 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 16:13:43 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] exhaust systems
Message-ID: <4309388.25583621219266823799.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

I have the Bell stock stainless steel system on my 1972 Triumph TR6. 
The shop that installed it said it was the best fitting exhaust they 
have ever mounted.

Several years later, it looks and sound like the day it was installed. 
Did not want to lose that stock sound.

Craig H. Nicholls


On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at  4:09 PM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:

> Gary and List,
>  I've been thinking of a custom exhaust setup for my TR6 recently as 
> well.  I have a stock muffler and always have wondered what it would 
> look  like and if anyone has been successful with welding a pair of 
> twin pipes to  the rear of the muffler on the passenger side (in a 
> mirror image to what exits  from the muffler to the rear on the 
> driver's side)....creating a  symmetrical 4 pipe setup??
>  But, Gary, good luck with your project!
>  Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1976 TR6  CF57822U
>   In a message dated 8/20/2008 10:17:14 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:
>
> Actually  I'd like to make up my own  system.
>
>
>
>
> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your 
> travel deal here. 
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Aug 20 15:23:57 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 16:23:57 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Optima Battery deal
Message-ID: <29477432.25596111219267437774.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

To the list,

If you are searching for a new battery, I wanted to let the list know 
that Optima is currently running a $25 rebate through 9/15/08.

After some research on the list for my 72 TR6, I wanted the Group 34 
8002-002.  This is the battery that Moss sells for $289.95 plus 
shipping.

I purchased one from www.streetsideauto.com for $159.95 and used a 
coupon code for 10% off (just Google Street Side Auto coupon code, there 
are several out there).  Also note that they use the number 9002-002, 
but it arrived today and says 8002-002 Group 34 on the top of it.

The bottom line, $143.96 (with FREE shipping) and the $25 rebate for a 
grand total of $118.96.

Now if I could just get that deal on the tar topper from Moss, I would 
be right where I want to be.

If you are searching for a battery before winter, check out this deal.

Thanks,

Craig H. Nicholls
Vienna, VA

From tartanredmgb at gmail.com  Wed Aug 20 16:17:48 2008
From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 15:17:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 advice needed
In-Reply-To: <b6464ee40808201508n48ffa5dah76f84a4b74384fab@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b6464ee40808201508n48ffa5dah76f84a4b74384fab@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b6464ee40808201517q37491dabm125de836559b7a45@mail.gmail.com>

Hello list,

I am trying to find a nice TR4 or 4a. Prefer a car that is in good shape
without needing much of anything. Can anyone give me tips on what to look
for- typical problems, defects, rust areas, and so on? Solid axle vs. IRS?
Where is best place to look for a TR4, and what kind of money would I expect
to pay?

I haven't owned a Triumph before, always had MGs.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Aug 20 17:37:04 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 19:37:04 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 advice needed
Message-ID: <ca8.3047730a.35de04a0@aol.com>

Welcome into the light!
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug 20 17:36:23 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 19:36:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 advice needed
In-Reply-To: <b6464ee40808201517q37491dabm125de836559b7a45@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b6464ee40808201508n48ffa5dah76f84a4b74384fab@mail.gmail.com>
	<b6464ee40808201517q37491dabm125de836559b7a45@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <200808201936.24105.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 20 August 2008 06:17 pm, tartanredmgb at gmail.com wrote:
> Hello list,
>
> I am trying to find a nice TR4 or 4a. Prefer a car that is in good shape
> without needing much of anything. Can anyone give me tips on what to look
> for- typical problems, defects, rust areas, and so on? Solid axle vs. IRS?
> Where is best place to look for a TR4, and what kind of money would I
> expect to pay?
>
> I haven't owned a Triumph before, always had MGs.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!
MG,

A TR4 driver that is ready for the road but not a show car can get a good 
price if the body and frame are rust free. I am guessing 10  - 12 K. Tons 
more if it is original.

A 4 with a full restoration all new interior, rebuilt drive train, suspension, 
brakes, etc will start at about 17K and up depending on the seller.

Projects start at about 1K and go to about 7 or 8 K depending on completeness, 
rust, body damage etc.

My TR4 project cost me about 1400 to start but it was a basket case but with a 
solid body, frame and drive train.

Things to look for on any 4 are rust in the frame and on on the 4A the rear 
suspension and where it attaches to the frame.

Floors, sills, rocker panels, all body panels, rear fender attachment areas. 
Just about anywhere where rust can grow you can find it on a 4.

Try to look for those CA cars or southern cars.

Ebay has a good selection at this time.

For preferences, my 4 is a solid axle 63. Less to deal with if something needs 
replacing.

The IRS gives a better ride I hear. Also has a wood dash.

Bob

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug 20 18:10:16 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 20:10:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 advice needed
In-Reply-To: <ca8.3047730a.35de04a0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48AC7A28.27321.6161718@localhost>

On 20 Aug 2008 at 19:37, DLylis at aol.com wrote:

> Welcome into the light!

Don't get his hopes too high.  4's use Lucas too.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug 20 18:31:57 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 20:31:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] gearbox oil results
Message-ID: <48AC7F3D.24532.629F074@localhost>

Valvoline 20w50 racing oil in the Spitfire's OD gearbox.  Wow.  OD 
works great.  The movement feels smooth and stays the same regardless 
of the gearbox's temperature.  The gearbox still leaks to the point 
that I smell oil once the exhaust pipe gets warm.  But at least the 
heavier oil doesn't start smoking off the exhaust - that used to be 
embarrasing. :-o

You can count my vote in favor.

Now, what exactly makes this "racing oil"?  How is it different from 
any normal-use oil?

Thanks, everyone.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 20 18:38:54 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 17:38:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] exhaust
Message-ID: <252924.77975.qm@web59608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

chip and list,
I think it'd be difficult to weld pipes to the passenger side
of muffler (for me anyway)  Plus i'm not sure how the muffler is baffled
inside and whether the outflow would be equal.  Probably not worth the work of
the welding.  thanks for the response.
gary n.

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Aug 20 18:45:23 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 20:45:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] gearbox oil results
Message-ID: <cb2.3cc395c3.35de14a3@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/20/2008 7:32:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

Now,  what exactly makes this "racing oil"?  How is it different from 
any  normal-use oil?




More ZDDP, or so they say
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Aug 20 18:50:28 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 20:50:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 advice needed
Message-ID: <bee.2f187f6f.35de15d4@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/20/2008 7:11:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

>  Welcome into the light!

Don't get his hopes too high.  4's use  Lucas too.




That was more in the cosmic sense, rather than electrical!  Even  though he 
has stepped into the light, there is still going to be a fair  amount of 
darkness.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 20 19:29:31 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 18:29:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] gearbox oil results
In-Reply-To: <48AC7F3D.24532.629F074@localhost>
References: <48AC7F3D.24532.629F074@localhost>
Message-ID: <5B5A588F93EF4D1986A9F6B86C1BFB75@jdnet.deere.com>

> Now, what exactly makes this "racing oil"?  How is it different from
> any normal-use oil?

As I understand it, less detergent, more extreme pressure/anti-wear (ZDDP),
more anti-foam.  Probably higher ash content too.  But it could all be hype,
I've never particularly cared to experiment and find out.

Short story, worth everything it costs :

Way back when I first got involved in TRs, I found that the usual (cheap)
multi-weight motor oils (Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State, etc.) did not hold
up well.  The viscosity improver additive seemed to break down in just a few
thousand miles, leaving 10W40 oil about the consistency of water.  (A
conventional 10W40 oil starts with a base of roughly 5W oil, then adds a
"viscosity index improver" additive similar to STP to thicken it to the
rated grade.)

So, based on a recommendation from a local mechanic, I switched to 40 weight
Valvoline Racing oil.  No more viscosity breakdown (though the stuff was
like molasses in the winter time).

Fast forward a year or two, when I finally had enough nickels saved for new
bearings and rings.  I pulled the pan off to start the job then got
distracted somehow and left the car sitting with the pan off, in a "lean-to"
garage for maybe 6 months.  (ISTR the diff was busted too, so part of that
time was buying and stripping a TR4 for spare parts, then learning a TR4
diff is different, etc.)  When I finally got around to pulling off the
bearing caps, there was STILL enough oil in the galleries to drip off the
crank!

Now that proves nothing, perhaps it was just the thicker oil or whatever,
but it sure impressed the heck out of me.  I've been a believer in Valvoline
products ever since, and I believe they work well.  After two bad
experiences with Castrol over the years (once before I started using
Valvoline, the other when for some reason it became very difficult to buy VR
oil locally), I'll never go back.

My $.02, YMMV, etc.
Randall

From gamerrell at qwest.net  Wed Aug 20 20:29:58 2008
From: gamerrell at qwest.net (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 20:29:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] FOT Kastner Cup at Watkins Glenn
Message-ID: <48ACD326.70700@qwest.net>

Hi All,
It is getting down to the wire for Watkins Glen and the FOT Kastner Cup 
September 4-6, and I am starting to get back onto the various lists 
after a career change.  This means it time to get back on the band wagon 
to continue promotion of the TTA 2009 Charity Drive

As some of you may know, John Macartney is coming over to kick off the 
TTA Drive, and it looks like I will be hawking with him on the display 
stand at Watkins Glen.

John flies into Boston on the 3rd, and I am thinking about doing the 
same, then flying home on the 7th.  One option for me is to fly into an 
airport closer to Watkins Glen on Thursday the 4th if I can not grab a 
spare seat.

I am looking for anyone caravaning past Boston or any of the closer 
airports in New York where I may hitch a ride and split the fuel bill, 
and/or if anyone is staying at the event hotel and wants to split a room.

Contact me directly at
stagbytriumph at tscusa.org.

Thanks!

Cheers!

Glenn Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA
TTA Charity Drive Coordinator

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Wed Aug 20 22:06:42 2008
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 21:06:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Seat Mounting Hole Pattern - TR Series
Message-ID: <000001c90343$5228d670$f67a8350$@rr.com>

Hi Folks,

When I installed Miata seats in my TR4A using Uncle Jack's (God rest his
soul) newly manufactured brackets , the seat don't go backwards enough
before the tilt mechanism hits the "B" post area.  I noticed that there was
some extra space between the seat and center drive tunnel, enough for the
mechanism to clear,  and that prompted a couple of questions from Joe
Alexander.

 

Are the mounting hole placements different between the TR series of cars?
I'm not talking about the hole pattern, but the distance from centerline and
front/back placement?  I seem to recall seeing TR6 seats in earlier cars but
would like to know if anybody knows of differences. Also I'm using the
original seat mounting holes with the original floor pans unmodified. 

 

Any ideas?

 

Joe emailed me that the funeral is Thursday.

 

Johnnie

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Thu Aug 21 06:46:26 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 08:46:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Upper Wishbone Arms Placement
Message-ID: <014f01c9038b$eddad990$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
I hate to bug Randall all the time.  Does somebody else know this?  Of course,
his reply is welcome.

As both front wheels are off my TR3, I could easily see this morning that both
sides front-most wishbone arms are closest to the shock tower.  Is this
incorrect for both sides?

Also, it appeared that the horizontal arm of BOTH ball joints have no cotter
pin.  Proably both have no hole either.  I have inspected only one though, and
it has no hole.

I haven't seen the manual's reference to the upper wishbone's placement.  I
did see where both the LH front and RH rear wishbone arm, and vica versa (RHf
& LHr), had the exact same dimensions.  However, I can't recall what about
those look different, if anything.

Thanks for your answers,
Paul Dorsey

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 865 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 21 08:04:57 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 14:04:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] exhaust systems
In-Reply-To: <082020081614.20317.48AC42F30003D5D400004F5D2200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <082020081614.20317.48AC42F30003D5D400004F5D2200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W36F782B76B569F66B6230AE56B0@phx.gbl>

I redid my exhaust last spring.  I found some new mufflers that produce a
really nice note from Spinteck.com.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: emanteno at comcast.net
> To: nafzigerg at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 16:14:43 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] exhaust systems
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
>
> > Anyone ready to get into the exhaust system discussion?lol I have a pretty
> > good stock exhaust now but want a little more sound. I've heard of people
who
> > have the monza system who complain of "drone" at highway speeds that gets
> > annoying.
> > Actually I'd like to make up my own system. already have dual pipes
> > going back to stock muffler which i could split into dual mufflers at the
> > rear. Has anyone on the list made up theyr'e own exhaust? what mufflers
did
> > you buy that look nice and sound great......or at least sound louder than
> > stock? Most muffler's i've priced from major manufacturers seem toooo
> > expensive. thanks!
>
> I'm having it done Saturday on my TR6. Large bore single pipe into a Dynamax
Ultraflo muffler. Flange between the intermediate pipe and the muffler, so I
can service the diff if I need to. I'll try to remeber to let you know how it
sounds.
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Talk to your Yahoo! Friends via Windows Live Messenger.  Find out how.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/messenger?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_messenger_yaho
o_082008

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Aug 21 08:48:40 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 09:48:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] exhaust systems
References: <c21.30431f28.35ddd3e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6DDE2010D69441FB89E900C2AC163F83@KARL>

On the original ('71 at least) TR6 muffler here's a plug on the right side 
rear, opposite the inlet pipe.  That plug caps the inlet portion of the 
muffler - there's a baffle pipe with holes all around it that runs from the 
inlet to that plug at the rear.  If you cut out the plug and weld a 2" pipe 
to the muffler right where the plug was, you'll have an open exhaust, though 
with a slight resonator effect.  Putting a lakes plug on there gives you the 
option of an open exhaust when you want it.

If you're adding dual pipes on that side of the muffler, if one of them goes 
onto that plug it'll be pretty loud.  Even right next to it it'll be far 
less baffled than the stock left side outlets.

These comments apply to the stock muffler, and direct reproductions of that 
muffler.

Karl


> I've been thinking of a custom exhaust setup for my TR6 recently as  well. 
> I
> have a stock muffler and always have wondered what it would look  like and 
> if
> anyone has been successful with welding a pair of twin pipes to  the rear 
> of
> the muffler on the passenger side (in a mirror image to what exits  from 
> the
> muffler to the rear on the driver's side)....creating a  symmetrical 4 
> pipe
> setup??
>
> But, Gary, good luck with your project!

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Aug 21 08:53:44 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 09:53:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] exhaust systems
References: <c21.30431f28.35ddd3e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0F5256240186497CA7FCFE43B90D93FF@KARL>

On the original ('71 at least) TR6 muffler here's a plug on the right side
rear, opposite the inlet pipe.  That plug caps the inlet portion of the
muffler - there's a baffle pipe with holes all around it that runs from the
inlet to that plug at the rear.  If you cut out the plug and weld a 2" pipe
to the muffler right where the plug was, you'll have an open exhaust, though
with a slight resonator effect.  Putting a lakes plug on there gives you the
option of an open exhaust when you want it.

If you're adding dual pipes on that side of the muffler, if one of them goes
onto that plug it'll be pretty loud.  Even right next to it it'll be far
less baffled than the stock left side outlets.

These comments apply to the stock muffler, and direct reproductions of that
muffler.

Karl


> I've been thinking of a custom exhaust setup for my TR6 recently as  well.
> I
> have a stock muffler and always have wondered what it would look  like and
> if
> anyone has been successful with welding a pair of twin pipes to  the rear
> of
> the muffler on the passenger side (in a mirror image to what exits  from
> the
> muffler to the rear on the driver's side)....creating a  symmetrical 4
> pipe
> setup??
>
> But, Gary, good luck with your project!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 21 09:17:23 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 08:17:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] exhaust systems
In-Reply-To: <720385.66497.qm@web59603.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <720385.66497.qm@web59603.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1B4E23D4D2284238B1FA5A25382A277D@jdnet.deere.com>

> Has anyone on the list made up theyr'e own exhaust?  what mufflers
> did you buy that look nice and sound great......or at least sound louder 
> than stock?  Most muffler's i've priced from major manufacturers seem
> toooo expensive.

I did more or less the same thing Peter did, except it's just the local
independent muffler shop.  Told the man what I wanted and he fixed me up
with some very nice "Cherry Bomb" brand glasspack mufflers (2 on the Stag, 1
on the TR3A) that worked out very well.  The TR was just a wee bit loud for
my tastes (hard to hear the stereo), so I added a downturned tip that
moderated it just right.  I've literally been asked if that was a V8 (in the
TR).  But the Stag (which got longer, smaller bore mufflers) sounded just
right.

And the cost was VERY reasonable.  The TR just needed the muffler and
(straight) tailpipe, so he only charged me the "installed" price for the
muffler, which ISTR was about $60 (maybe 10 years ago now).  The Stag was
more complicated since he also had to fabricate some hangars and a
crossover, but the bill was still only about $200 (including the pair of
longer glasspacks) in 2005.

Of course it's all mild steel, but without the lead to rot it out, it should
last a long time.  And I'm more into function over form, so I don't care how
it looks.  My experience with glasspacks has been that the housing long
outlasts the fiberglass anyway.  The previous mild steel OEM-equivalent
exhaust on the TR had been on there for 17 years and still had not rusted to
any great extent.

Randall

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Thu Aug 21 09:24:58 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 08:24:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10808210824m7bd8ea5eq4b84f8b3c4b731e@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all
Has anyone come across a template for placement of the holes for the pins
behind the letters on the boot lid?
My lid was a replacement without the holes, I presume, so the PO cut off the
pins and used two-sided tape to affix them. I did the same after the repaint
and they are now beginning to disappear.
I'm not sure I have the courage to try to drill such precisely placed holes,
but maybe there is a way.
Thanks
john Howard

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 21 10:44:30 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 09:44:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] thanks to the list!!
Message-ID: <336271.51812.qm@web59612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Just like to thank everyone for the list!  great place and I'm glad to be
back!  thanks karl for the info on mufflers.  never knew about the other
outlet.  I'd considered making up my own exhaust with glass pack mufflers but
wasn't sure.........no i am sure!!  this group gives me the courage to get up
and do what needs to be done. lol
stuart..............the flinker node never
does get aligned no matter how hard you try.LOL
gary n.

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Thu Aug 21 13:56:28 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 15:56:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
Message-ID: <bc5.2f925332.35df226c@aol.com>

I'm not sure I have the courage to try to drill such precisely placed holes,
but maybe there is a way.
 
 
I could accurately measure them and reproduce the pattern. If I had a TR4!
 
Frank Fisher
Temecula California



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From kentshrack at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 21 15:19:45 2008
From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 14:19:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Travels in Michigan
Message-ID: <322347.92084.qm@web57811.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I will be in Grand Rapids, Cadillac, Traverse city and Glen Arbor MI the first
part of October.  Anyone have ideas on what to see?

From dwillner at ptd.net  Thu Aug 21 16:11:15 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 18:11:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Travels in Michigan
References: <322347.92084.qm@web57811.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000501c903da$d50fdbf0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

Frost and snow?

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kent Shrack" <kentshrack at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 5:19 PM
Subject: [TR] Travels in Michigan


>I will be in Grand Rapids, Cadillac, Traverse city and Glen Arbor MI the 
>first
> part of October.  Anyone have ideas on what to see?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dwillner at ptd.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dwillner at ptd.net  Thu Aug 21 16:12:12 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 18:12:12 -0400
Subject: [TR]  Travels in Michigan
Message-ID: <000b01c903da$f6f89590$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

Frost and snow?

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special
 
 
 ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kent Shrack" <kentshrack at yahoo.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 5:19 PM
> Subject: [TR] Travels in Michigan
> 
> 
>>I will be in Grand Rapids, Cadillac, Traverse city and Glen Arbor MI the 
>>first
>> part of October.  Anyone have ideas on what to see?
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> You are subscribed as dwillner at ptd.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Aug 21 17:47:08 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 19:47:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR Results?
Message-ID: <000301c903e8$3a51b8a0$210110ac@bobspc>

Anyone know if the VTR results from Ann Arbor are posted anywhere? Or when
they will be posted? 
 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Thu Aug 21 19:28:50 2008
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 21:28:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] another exhaust issue
In-Reply-To: <021601c8c02f$19d34050$4d79c0f0$@net>
References: <d02.33fc45dc.356cbc89@aol.com>
	<003c01c8c008$a2738450$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
	<021601c8c02f$19d34050$4d79c0f0$@net>
Message-ID: <8CAD20D90991E80-1108-38EC@FWM-D32.sysops.aol.com>

Another exhaust issue.  Any help appreciated.
I just bought a new exhaust system for my TR3A and the front and rear
> muffler are larger than the one we took off the car so that they won't fit
> within the frame members.  The ones I took off have a width of about 5.5"
> while the new ones are about 7.25 inches.  The new ones are also too
> thick, top to bottom and hit the floor.  I checked with a friend and his
> TR3A mufflers are as the new ones.  Any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> Ned Paulsen
> Webster, NY

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Thu Aug 21 20:01:16 2008
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 22:01:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] Your photo in a race car booth at Meadowdale Raceway Festival
Message-ID: <ce5.3a8035c2.35df77ec@aol.com>

This is from another list, sounds like a interesting event.  Also, take a 
look at the website  www.meadowdaleraceway.homestead.com


[WtW] Your photo in a race car booth at Meadowdale Raceway Festival
Date:   8/21/08 3:02:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From:   rossf at cognifast.com (Ross Fosbender)
Sender: wheeltowheel-request at wheeltowheel.com
To: wheeltowheel at wheeltowheel.com


I'm in trouble.  I am drawing a blank on finding a club that can provide a 
vintage roadster, camera, and a few bodies to set up what will be a 
tremendously popular attraction at the Meadowdale Raceway Reunion & Festival 
September 13-14 at the old track in Carpentersville, IL.  See 
www.meadowdaleraceway.homestead.com.

To simplify the project, we will  just take pictures with a digital camera, 
then take the files home and post them on the Meadowdale website.  People 
can then pick them off the Internet and do with them what they will.  If you 
wish to request a donation for this service, that is fine.  If people want 
to use their own cameras to take the picture, we would want that to be free.

Getting a suitable car has been a problem for some.  If you wish to use my 
shiny red Alfa Spider, you can.  But it is in Ottawa, IL, 78 miles away 
(roughly I-80 and I-39) and will need to be trailered to Meadowdale and 
back.  It's a little wrecked on the driver's side, but the other side looks 
great.  With some numbers and headlight tape, it will stand in fine for a 
Meadowdale era racer.  Its future includes a full restoration, so a tennis 
shoe scuff, ice cream drip, or spilled Coke will be no disaster.

You could actually use the car for two photo sites- the right side for hero 
driver pix, the left side for several crew members trying to straighten out 
the dummy driver's latest race damage. But that's strictly optional.

Of course, if you have an available pre-'70 race car you could bring, that 
would make things a lot simpler.

TIA.

Ross Fosbender
Ottawa, IL 61350
815-434-9882
rossf at cognifast.com 
<BR><BR><BR>**************<BR>It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. 
Find your travel deal here.<BR>      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)</HTML>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 21 22:18:06 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 21:18:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?
Message-ID: <20080822041807.FKRY13299.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

Can anyone confirm that the chrome horizontal bar in this photo was an
aftermarket or optional item?
http://wikicars.org/en/Image:Triumph_gt6_rear_t.jpg

Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Aug 21 22:25:05 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 21:25:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?
In-Reply-To: <20080822041807.FKRY13299.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <20080822041807.FKRY13299.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <09CE391938EB44ADAD3401CD876FAFAC@newcomputer>

Yes!



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Randall
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 9:18 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?

Can anyone confirm that the chrome horizontal bar in this photo was an
aftermarket or optional item?
http://wikicars.org/en/Image:Triumph_gt6_rear_t.jpg

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From spamiam at comcast.net  Fri Aug 22 07:15:02 2008
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 13:15:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] gearbox oil results
Message-ID: <082220081315.15896.48AEBBD6000AA97700003E182205884484030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net>

>> Now, what exactly makes this "racing oil"? How is it different from 
>> any normal-use oil? 

> As I understand it, less detergent, more extreme pressure/anti-wear (ZDDP), 
> more anti-foam. Probably higher ash content too. But it could all be hype, 
> I've never particularly cared to experiment and find out. 


I agree with Randall.  I have found that the VR racing oil is listed to have the contents as he said.  One thing that I have found is that there are TWO versions of the VR oil.

One is the EPA (or whatever... DOT???) certified version that has less zinc and therefore has less ZDDP.  Then there is the "off-road" version that has the "normal" amount of zinc.  The ZDDP seems to protect our tappets from an early death.   I use the off-road version of VR in the engines of my TRs, though I am going to use a ZDDP additive in the future.  I think I would be very tempted to use the VR off-road oil in my OD transmission, if I had one.  I used to have an OD and I did use the VR oil until I sold the car.\\-Tony

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Aug 22 07:20:31 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 13:20:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?
Message-ID: <082220081320.9830.48AEBD1E000EBD5F0000266622155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

>> Can anyone confirm that the chrome horizontal bar in this photo was an
>> aftermarket or optional item?
>> http://wikicars.org/en/Image:Triumph_gt6_rear_t.jpg 
>> Randall

From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> Yes

"Yes" what?

Yes, it was an aftermarket item?

Yes, it was an optional item?

Yes, it could be either, there were both and I can't tell from the photo?

Yes there is someone who can confirm, but I'm not tellig you who?

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Aug 22 07:46:28 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 09:46:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?
In-Reply-To: <082220081320.9830.48AEBD1E000EBD5F0000266622155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <082220081320.9830.48AEBD1E000EBD5F0000266622155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CAD2749CD83CD6-9BC-26DD@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: pethier at comcast.net

>> Can anyone confirm that the chrome horizontal bar in this photo was 
an
>> aftermarket or optional item?
>> http://wikicars.org/en/Image:Triumph_gt6_rear_t.jpg
>> Randall

From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> Yes

"Yes" what?

Yes, it was an aftermarket item?

Yes, it was an optional item?

Yes, it could be either, there were both and I can't tell from the 
photo?

Yes there is someone who can confirm, but I'm not tellig you who?

==AM==
How about Yes, a dealer AND aftermarket option, likely manufactured by 
AMCO.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 22 09:17:43 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 08:17:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] I come here to get AWAY from politics
Message-ID: <35415.31286.qm@web59609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

with all due respect other peoples political opinions mean diddly to me here. 
I'm gonna vote how I vote and don't need political preaching.  on the other
hand opinions on british cars rule!!
gary n.

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Aug 22 09:40:56 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 08:40:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?
In-Reply-To: <082220081320.9830.48AEBD1E000EBD5F0000266622155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <082220081320.9830.48AEBD1E000EBD5F0000266622155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CE98BAE5D99144178B6027398B35BCE0@newcomputer>

D!

The question was is there someone on the list that can confirm.  And as I
explained in a later off list message to R. Andy Mace and Darrell Floyd are
two such people who can answer it.  :)

Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: pethier at comcast.net [mailto:pethier at comcast.net] 
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 6:21 AM
To: Joe Curry; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?

>> Can anyone confirm that the chrome horizontal bar in this photo was an
>> aftermarket or optional item?
>> http://wikicars.org/en/Image:Triumph_gt6_rear_t.jpg 
>> Randall

From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> Yes

"Yes" what?

Yes, it was an aftermarket item?

Yes, it was an optional item?

Yes, it could be either, there were both and I can't tell from the photo?

Yes there is someone who can confirm, but I'm not tellig you who?

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C
package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Aug 22 09:41:32 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 08:41:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?
In-Reply-To: <8CAD2749CD83CD6-9BC-26DD@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
References: <082220081320.9830.48AEBD1E000EBD5F0000266622155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<8CAD2749CD83CD6-9BC-26DD@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
Message-ID: <A8E6A1D362F5424BBAA69E68F87F779E@newcomputer>

That is also the answer that I suggested to R.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Mace [mailto:zoboherald at aol.com] 
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 6:46 AM
To: pethier at comcast.net; spitlist at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?

-----Original Message-----
From: pethier at comcast.net

>> Can anyone confirm that the chrome horizontal bar in this photo was 
an
>> aftermarket or optional item?
>> http://wikicars.org/en/Image:Triumph_gt6_rear_t.jpg
>> Randall

From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> Yes

"Yes" what?

Yes, it was an aftermarket item?

Yes, it was an optional item?

Yes, it could be either, there were both and I can't tell from the 
photo?

Yes there is someone who can confirm, but I'm not tellig you who?

==AM==
How about Yes, a dealer AND aftermarket option, likely manufactured by 
AMCO.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Aug 22 09:57:41 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 11:57:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] Uncle Jack
Message-ID: <c35.3fc9a1f6.35e03bf5@aol.com>

I never got to meet Uncle Jack in person, but he built an engine for my TR4  
and was a pleasure to speak and deal with.  I found out yesterday on the  MGB 
list.
 
It's a sad day when we lose anyone, but I'm relatively sure, knowing what  
little I know about Jack, he left the earth in a manner he would have chosen if  
he could.
 
Sympathy and prayers to all his family and friends.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay





In a message dated 8/17/2008 7:28:18 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
mkutka at comcast.net writes:

A sad  day this past weekend. I picked this up from the FOT list. In Grattan 
Michigan  we lost a true friend of triumph racing "new blue," his  Tr4.






**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Fri Aug 22 10:06:06 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 09:06:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <mailman.22949.1219420648.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.22949.1219420648.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <004a01c90470$fc882980$6801a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

Frank, et all -

I have a spare TR4A trunk lid I can make a hole pattern from. Getting it
from physical paper to electronic will be my biggest challenge... any ideas?

Brian
'67 TR4a

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 15:56:28 EDT
From: FGFO1 at aol.com
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <bc5.2f925332.35df226c at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I'm not sure I have the courage to try to drill such precisely placed holes,
but maybe there is a way.
 
 
I could accurately measure them and reproduce the pattern. If I had a TR4!
 
Frank Fisher
Temecula California

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Aug 22 10:17:45 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 10:17:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <004a01c90470$fc882980$6801a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <mailman.22949.1219420648.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<004a01c90470$fc882980$6801a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <65B75339BADF4581B1018677693ED19F@sniffer>

You can scan it in.  

Be sure to write the measurements on the paper as the scan probably will not
be to scale after it is re-printed.   If it is too big for the scanner, you
could re-draw in 1/2 scale, then scan it.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian
Induni
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 10:06 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4

Frank, et all -

I have a spare TR4A trunk lid I can make a hole pattern from. Getting it
from physical paper to electronic will be my biggest challenge... any ideas?

Brian
'67 TR4a

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 15:56:28 EDT
From: FGFO1 at aol.com
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <bc5.2f925332.35df226c at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I'm not sure I have the courage to try to drill such precisely placed holes,
but maybe there is a way.
 
 
I could accurately measure them and reproduce the pattern. If I had a TR4!
 
Frank Fisher
Temecula California
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.6/1627 - Release Date: 8/22/2008
6:48 AM

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Fri Aug 22 10:24:02 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:24:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <65B75339BADF4581B1018677693ED19F@sniffer>
References: <mailman.22949.1219420648.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<004a01c90470$fc882980$6801a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
	<65B75339BADF4581B1018677693ED19F@sniffer>
Message-ID: <8CAD28A9F5C99E4-10F8-1448@webmail-me14.sysops.aol.com>

 Or, scan it with a quarter, or ruler in the scan then you can verify the accuracy of the final printed document.? Using this method you could also accomplish the same thing with a digital photo instead of a scan.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech <wbeech at flash.net>
To: 308gtsi at adelphia.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:17 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4










You can scan it in.  

Be sure to write the measurements on the paper as the scan probably will not
be to scale after it is re-printed.   If it is too big for the scanner, you
could re-draw in 1/2 scale, then scan it.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian
Induni
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 10:06 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4

Frank, et all -

I have a spare TR4A trunk lid I can make a hole pattern from. Getting it
from physical paper to electronic will be my biggest challenge... any ideas?

Brian
'67 TR4a

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 15:56:28 EDT
From: FGFO1 at aol.com
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <bc5.2f925332.35df226c at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I'm not sure I have the courage to try to drill such precisely placed holes,
but maybe there is a way.
 
 
I could accurately measure them and reproduce the pattern. If I had a TR4!
 
Frank Fisher
Temecula California

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Aug 22 10:25:32 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:25:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] Uncle Jack  -   22 September 1936  - 16 August 2008
Message-ID: <c4c.372a4b90.35e0427c@cs.com>

We lost one of our best......

Thanks Robert Houston...we (a lot of us)  buried Uncle Jack yesterday in 
Geneseo, Illinois.  Jack & were best friends for 20 years with nary an unkind word 
between us.  He sustained me when I was unwell, and gave me direction when I 
needed support.

We worked together on many projects, and traveled extensively, most of which 
had to do with Triumphs and Triumph people.

I did post something on the big TR list last week, but didnt think it was 
widely read or that it didnt make it through cyberspace.

For those that are going to join us at Watkins Glen 3-7 September we will be 
memorializing Uncle Jack in the Triumph Paddock and on the Track. Please join 
us on Saturday evening, if not throughout the weekend.

Regards,

Joe Alexander
Friends of Triumph.




> From: BearTranserv at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] Uncle Jack
> 
> I never got to meet Uncle Jack in person, but he built an engine for my TR4  
> and was a pleasure to speak and deal with.  I found out yesterday on the  
> MGB 
> list.
> 
> It's a sad day when we lose anyone, but I'm relatively sure, knowing what  
> little I know about Jack, he left the earth in a manner he would have chosen 
> if  
> he could.
> 
> Sympathy and prayers to all his family and friends.
> 
> Robert B.  Houston
> Texan in New Mexico
> 
> 

   </HTML>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 22 10:27:49 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 09:27:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <004a01c90470$fc882980$6801a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <mailman.22949.1219420648.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<004a01c90470$fc882980$6801a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <4897353F4BF14EE187ADECF1D1C63191@jdnet.deere.com>

> I have a spare TR4A trunk lid I can make a hole pattern from. Getting it
> from physical paper to electronic will be my biggest challenge... any
> ideas?

Take several photos, with a ruler taped to the lid in strategic locations.

Randall

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 22 10:44:06 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:44:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Off topic, no politics but at least car related.
Message-ID: <BAY123-W25EC90191BCF4B6ACD2DC8BA6A0@phx.gbl>

The wonderful Ohio pot holes took out two wheels on the wife's 2006 Jetta GLI.
Anybody know of any decent used 14 spoke 17" alloy wheels that came on
2006/2007 VW Golfs or 2005/2007 Jettas? Can't bring myself to pay for new ones
when there are so many Triumph parts out there that are calling my name.

Marty
_________________________________________________________________
Get thousands of games on your PC, your mobile phone, and the web with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588800/direct/01/

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Fri Aug 22 10:44:37 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:44:37 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
Message-ID: <c96.2cc387f7.35e046f5@aol.com>

It may seem like a revelation to some but what about the idea of stuffing the 
pattern in an envelop, sticking a stamp on it and let Uncle Sam deliver it.  
Sure hope the Chinese don't pick up on this idea for they may just patent it!

Lou Metelko   -   old fashioned to the bone, stuck in the 60s and proud of 
it!
Auburn, Indiana


**************
It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. 
Find your travel deal here.
      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri Aug 22 10:52:15 2008
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:52:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <c96.2cc387f7.35e046f5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C087757A8@exchange.terra-incognita.net>

Luddite!

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Loumetelko at aol.com
Sent: August 22, 2008 12:45 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4

It may seem like a revelation to some but what about the idea of
stuffing the
pattern in an envelop, sticking a stamp on it and let Uncle Sam deliver
it.
Sure hope the Chinese don't pick up on this idea for they may just
patent it!

Lou Metelko   -   old fashioned to the bone, stuck in the 60s and proud
of
it!
Auburn, Indiana

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Aug 22 11:04:04 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 17:04:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] Uncle Jack  -   22 September 1936  - 16 August 2008
Message-ID: <082220081704.3354.48AEF1840000E15500000D1A22155558849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

> For those that are going to join us at Watkins Glen 3-7 September we will be 
> memorializing Uncle Jack in the Triumph Paddock and on the Track. Please join 
> us on Saturday evening, if not throughout the weekend.

Many of us can not be at The Glen, but we will be there with you in spirit.

Phil Ethier

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 22 12:06:26 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 11:06:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <c96.2cc387f7.35e046f5@aol.com>
References: <c96.2cc387f7.35e046f5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E85303FE09C4B89BE4B67836A093412@jdnet.deere.com>

> It may seem like a revelation to some but what about the idea of stuffing
> the
> pattern in an envelop,

Perhaps I'm confused; but I thought the problem was creating the pattern.  

Or are you suggesting that he stuff a trunk lid in an envelop (or an
envelope).

Randall

From lisa at josephvincelli.com  Fri Aug 22 12:22:34 2008
From: lisa at josephvincelli.com (Lisa Richardson)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 13:22:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
Message-ID: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>

List,
 
What is everyone's feelings regarding headlamps. I have a TR6 with the
sealed beams and don't get much light out of them. Don't drive too much at
night but they are not bright and I live in Dallas and one can use all the
safety attention one can get. I called TRF and they said the majority still
order the original equipment which is the sealed beam. Are there fans of the
halogens at all? Are we only talking originality vs. the brighter light?
 
Thanks,
 
Lisa
75 TR6
57 TR3

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri Aug 22 12:36:44 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 11:36:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>
Message-ID: <80F5023D-14B0-4DEC-9EF5-1660E56A8655@cox.net>

I use the Hella H4 headlights (Moss sells them their # 902-969) that I  
took off of my Porsche.  I use ultra white bulbs (with a little blue  
to help my old eyeballs).  The Hella H4 lens put the light on the  
road&, not in people's eyes.  When I had them on my 911 in Florida, I  
would drive down country roads trough the swamps with brights on using  
very high wattage bulbs (did not want to hit a deer).  On occasion, I  
would forget to dim them for on-coming cars & very seldom ever got  
flashed.

I should say that the other thing that really helped my headlights on  
the TR3 was Dan Master's wiring system!!!  Heavy wires using relays  
significantly help put the light out the front of the car!

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Aug 22 12:38:09 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 14:38:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?
In-Reply-To: <CE98BAE5D99144178B6027398B35BCE0@newcomputer>
References: <082220081320.9830.48AEBD1E000EBD5F0000266622155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<CE98BAE5D99144178B6027398B35BCE0@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <48AF0791.3080401@bright.net>

Joe Curry wrote:
> D!
>
> The question was is there someone on the list that can confirm.  And as I
> explained in a later off list message to R. Andy Mace and Darrell Floyd are
> two such people who can answer it.  :)
>
> Joe 
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pethier at comcast.net [mailto:pethier at comcast.net] 
> Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 6:21 AM
> To: Joe Curry; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?
>
>   
>>> Can anyone confirm that the chrome horizontal bar in this photo was an
>>> aftermarket or optional item?
>>> http://wikicars.org/en/Image:Triumph_gt6_rear_t.jpg 
>>> Randall
>>>       
>
> From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
>   
>> Yes
>>     
>
> "Yes" what?
>
> Yes, it was an aftermarket item?
>
> Yes, it was an optional item?
>
> Yes, it could be either, there were both and I can't tell from the photo?
>
> Yes there is someone who can confirm, but I'm not tellig you who?
>
> --
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C
> package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.6/1627 - Release Date: 8/22/2008 6:48 AM
>
>
>
>   
Joe, you missed the list member who sold them new as a TRdealer dealer.  
That would be me. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Aug 22 12:41:36 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 14:41:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
Message-ID: <c79.3dfd688a.35e06260@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/22/2008 1:23:10 PM Central Daylight Time, 
lisa at josephvincelli.com writes: 
> What is everyone's feelings regarding headlamps. I have a TR6 with the
> sealed beams and don't get much light out of them. Don't drive too much at
> night but they are not bright and I live in Dallas and one can use all the
> safety attention one can get. I called TRF and they said the majority still
> order the original equipment which is the sealed beam. Are there fans of the
> halogens at all? Are we only talking originality vs. the brighter light?
> 
You have a self-selected group when you ask TRF who buys what.  Folks who are 
not really interested in originality buy their headlamps at Autozone.  I, for 
one, buy the sealed beam halogens at a minimum.  Sealed beam halogens are 
available everywhere from Ace Hardware to Walgreen's and for a good price, too.  
More light for the same amps.

Dave Massey
57 TR3
71 TR6
80 TR8
Member: VTR, TWOA, SLTOA   

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Aug 22 13:21:47 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:21:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <80F5023D-14B0-4DEC-9EF5-1660E56A8655@cox.net>
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>
	<80F5023D-14B0-4DEC-9EF5-1660E56A8655@cox.net>
Message-ID: <38007E4399014E1E8632D890F9B841B7@newcomputer>

I also use Hella Halogen lamps.  I will have to say that they do dray more
power than the stock lamps and you may find that as I did you might need to
upgrade your alternator to handle the extra draw.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
60TR3A
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Lisa Richardson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Headlamps

I use the Hella H4 headlights (Moss sells them their # 902-969) that I  
took off of my Porsche.  I use ultra white bulbs (with a little blue  
to help my old eyeballs).  The Hella H4 lens put the light on the  
road&, not in people's eyes.  When I had them on my 911 in Florida, I  
would drive down country roads trough the swamps with brights on using  
very high wattage bulbs (did not want to hit a deer).  On occasion, I  
would forget to dim them for on-coming cars & very seldom ever got  
flashed.

I should say that the other thing that really helped my headlights on  
the TR3 was Dan Master's wiring system!!!  Heavy wires using relays  
significantly help put the light out the front of the car!

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Aug 22 13:23:37 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:23:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <38007E4399014E1E8632D890F9B841B7@newcomputer>
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC><80F5023D-14B0-4DEC-9EF5-1660E56A8655@cox.net>
	<38007E4399014E1E8632D890F9B841B7@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <F292F5BFBDFD4BF4B324CCC70FA8FA40@newcomputer>

That should be Draw not Dray.  Spell checkers don't consider context.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe
Curry
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:22 PM
To: '60TR3A'; 'Lisa Richardson'
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Headlamps

I also use Hella Halogen lamps.  I will have to say that they do dray more
power than the stock lamps and you may find that as I did you might need to
upgrade your alternator to handle the extra draw.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
60TR3A
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Lisa Richardson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Headlamps

I use the Hella H4 headlights (Moss sells them their # 902-969) that I  
took off of my Porsche.  I use ultra white bulbs (with a little blue  
to help my old eyeballs).  The Hella H4 lens put the light on the  
road&, not in people's eyes.  When I had them on my 911 in Florida, I  
would drive down country roads trough the swamps with brights on using  
very high wattage bulbs (did not want to hit a deer).  On occasion, I  
would forget to dim them for on-coming cars & very seldom ever got  
flashed.

I should say that the other thing that really helped my headlights on  
the TR3 was Dan Master's wiring system!!!  Heavy wires using relays  
significantly help put the light out the front of the car!

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Fri Aug 22 13:33:58 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 15:33:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
Message-ID: <d4e.353c7059.35e06ea6@aol.com>

Lisa,
 
I went with Sylvania Xtra Bright Halogens.....same reasons as the other  guys 
- when I drive at night, I'd like to be able to see.  Keep your ground  wires 
good and clean:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/22/2008 2:23:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
lisa at josephvincelli.com writes:

Are  there fans of the
halogens at all? 




**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 22 13:38:32 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:38:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlamps Pt 1
In-Reply-To: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>
Message-ID: <A0DA1C65568B4667BD7BFC6CBFB8A1DA@jdnet.deere.com>

Must've been too large the first time.

Lisa Richardson wrote:
> Are there fans of the halogens at all?

I'm a big fan of halogen headlights.  However, they are not all created
equal, some of the cheap imitations on eBay (and elsewhere) are horrible.
After some bad experiences, I look for 'known' brands, like Cibii/Valeo
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html
(NFI, just a satisfied customer)
IPF and Wipac are supposed to be good, too:
http://www.britishpacific.com/BPSite/landroverparts/IPF_lighting.html

There are also "halogen sealed beam" headlights available (AutoZone, etc.)
but IMO they don't work nearly as well as a quality H4 type unit.

However, I feel that there is another important step, which is adding relays
and a heavy gauge feeder wire (with fusible link) to ensure the headlights
get full battery voltage.  This will get you brighter headlights whether you
opt for standard tungsten sealed beams, or halogens.  More at
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

BTW the light output of tungsten sealed beams drops markedly over their
service life (especially if the voltage has been a bit low).  Even just new
sealed beams would likely be an improvement if yours are old.

Also worth noting that H4 bulbs are available in various wattages.  Unless
you are upgrading the wiring and the alternator, I would suggest sticking
with the standard 55/60 watt bulbs (which will work with the standard
wiring, etc.)

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 22 13:40:17 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:40:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlamps Pt 2
In-Reply-To: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>
Message-ID: <E5E6590799CF4B689867CC578F590E30@jdnet.deere.com>

Lisa Richardson wrote:

> Are we only talking originality vs. the brighter light?

In some jurisdictions, the common H4 halogen headlamps may be illegal.  They
were definitely illegal when I first started using them; and I'm told that
they are still illegal in California today (on cars that were originally
fitted with tungsten sealed beams).  But I have never, ever had a policeman
even comment on them; so it may be an urban myth today.

The issue is that the reflector is not sealed against moisture, ozone, smog,
etc. and may become cloudy and ineffective over time.  So, the US passed
laws back in the 1940s requiring all headlights to have sealed reflectors
(among other things).  The Federal laws were eventually repealed, but some
states supposedly have laws requiring that headlights be replaced with the
same "type and kind" which could be construed to mean only sealed beams on
cars originally so equipped.

I have seen halogen reflectors turn cloudy, which really messes up the
performance of the headlight, making it worse than useless.  But IMO it just
becomes another item to check for, just like checking that your brake lights
still work.

BTW, I just fitted one of the Cibii "Complex Surface Reflector" lamps to the
Stag.  The improvement compared to their H4 "convex" lamp is considerable,
though still not as large (IMO) as the difference between the old tungsten
lamp and the H4 "convex" lamp.  Unfortunately they aren't available for the
TR6, though, as they require a separate lamp for high beams.

Maybe we'll get lucky, and someone will come out with a quality true HID
conversion to fit the old round headlights.  But I'm not holding my breath!
There are conversions available today, of course, but they are good mostly
for blinding oncoming drivers.  More at
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/HID.html

Randall

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Fri Aug 22 13:45:09 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:45:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E720CDB@kb1.mossmotors.com>

> Can anyone confirm that the chrome horizontal bar in this photo was an
> aftermarket or optional item?


Looks like the Amco rear guard #5523.
They show it as fitting Sptifire thru 1967.  But the picture looks just
like it - even the mounting.

Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Aug 22 13:46:49 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:46:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlamps Pt 2
In-Reply-To: <E5E6590799CF4B689867CC578F590E30@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>
	<E5E6590799CF4B689867CC578F590E30@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <E5098C28EE954DC5881A0A68B57CE61B@newcomputer>

Today, we have sealed reflectors so the reflectors will stay bright and
shiny.  Problem is the part that is exposed to the atmosphere on new cars is
often made of plastic and does turn cloudy over time.  So we have exchanged
one problem for another.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Randall
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:40 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Headlamps Pt 2

Lisa Richardson wrote:

> Are we only talking originality vs. the brighter light?

In some jurisdictions, the common H4 halogen headlamps may be illegal.  They
were definitely illegal when I first started using them; and I'm told that
they are still illegal in California today (on cars that were originally
fitted with tungsten sealed beams).  But I have never, ever had a policeman
even comment on them; so it may be an urban myth today.

The issue is that the reflector is not sealed against moisture, ozone, smog,
etc. and may become cloudy and ineffective over time.  So, the US passed
laws back in the 1940s requiring all headlights to have sealed reflectors
(among other things).  The Federal laws were eventually repealed, but some
states supposedly have laws requiring that headlights be replaced with the
same "type and kind" which could be construed to mean only sealed beams on
cars originally so equipped.

I have seen halogen reflectors turn cloudy, which really messes up the
performance of the headlight, making it worse than useless.  But IMO it just
becomes another item to check for, just like checking that your brake lights
still work.

BTW, I just fitted one of the Cibii "Complex Surface Reflector" lamps to the
Stag.  The improvement compared to their H4 "convex" lamp is considerable,
though still not as large (IMO) as the difference between the old tungsten
lamp and the H4 "convex" lamp.  Unfortunately they aren't available for the
TR6, though, as they require a separate lamp for high beams.

Maybe we'll get lucky, and someone will come out with a quality true HID
conversion to fit the old round headlights.  But I'm not holding my breath!
There are conversions available today, of course, but they are good mostly
for blinding oncoming drivers.  More at
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/HID.html

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 22 13:53:05 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:53:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlamps Pt 2
In-Reply-To: <E5098C28EE954DC5881A0A68B57CE61B@newcomputer>
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>
	<E5E6590799CF4B689867CC578F590E30@jdnet.deere.com>
	<E5098C28EE954DC5881A0A68B57CE61B@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <0CF3BBC0726940A4BCA2AAEE90255FF5@jdnet.deere.com>

> Today, we have sealed reflectors so the reflectors will stay bright and
> shiny.

Really?  I was under the impression they were back to running unsealed
reflectors.  At least that's what's on my 95 Buick.

>  Problem is the part that is exposed to the atmosphere on new cars
> is
> often made of plastic and does turn cloudy over time.

That's definitely true.  The Buick is on its third set.

Randall

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri Aug 22 13:53:45 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:53:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlamps Pt 2
In-Reply-To: <E5E6590799CF4B689867CC578F590E30@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>
	<E5E6590799CF4B689867CC578F590E30@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <C08527A4-2B66-4C3E-A2D6-660FEC31CED7@cox.net>

> Maybe we'll get lucky, and someone will come out with a quality true  
> HID
> conversion to fit the old round headlights.  But I'm not holding my  
> breath!
> There are conversions available today, of course, but they are good  
> mostly
> for blinding oncoming drivers.  More at
> http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/HID.html
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________


Based both on Randall's and Dan master's suggestions I have used  
Daniel Stern for lighting & have been pleased with the results.

I particularly like the extra bright brake & running lights which are  
visually significantly brighter than the normal lamps.  Agin there may  
be a slight confound of results, because I switched to those bulbs  
after installing Dan Masters wiring.  NFI only a very satisfies  
customer of both businesses.

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Aug 22 13:56:15 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 14:56:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC><80F5023D-14B0-4DEC-9EF5-1660E56A8655@cox.net><38007E4399014E1E8632D890F9B841B7@newcomputer>
	<F292F5BFBDFD4BF4B324CCC70FA8FA40@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <B8D06489B3FF447FAE997307BB55D080@mikeslaptop>

Yabbut, a dray is a horsedrawn cart used for deliveries, that was often 
drawn by two horses.  Two horspower is approximately 1,492 watts, while two 
headlamps on high beam draw about 1,440 watts, so you were pretty darn 
close!

Mike (who is bored this afternoon)



> That should be Draw not Dray.  Spell checkers don't consider context.
>
> Joe

From cak at dimebank.com  Fri Aug 22 14:36:20 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 13:36:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <mailman.22976.1219434808.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.22976.1219434808.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <48AF2344.3010804@dimebank.com>

What I wrote 10 years ago (!) is still mostly true:

http://www.dimebank.com/tech/Light-up.html

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Aug 22 15:27:36 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 14:27:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlamps Pt 2
In-Reply-To: <0CF3BBC0726940A4BCA2AAEE90255FF5@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC><E5E6590799CF4B689867CC578F590E30@jdnet.deere.com><E5098C28EE954DC5881A0A68B57CE61B@newcomputer>
	<0CF3BBC0726940A4BCA2AAEE90255FF5@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <F7DE6A0469C44E3DB82F49BF86A69046@newcomputer>

Perhaps, but the plastic lenses still are a major source of clouding.  Makes
seeing at night a real challenge.  But the auto companies can sell new ones
at over 100 bucks a pop.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Randall
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:53 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Headlamps Pt 2

> Today, we have sealed reflectors so the reflectors will stay bright and
> shiny.

Really?  I was under the impression they were back to running unsealed
reflectors.  At least that's what's on my 95 Buick.

>  Problem is the part that is exposed to the atmosphere on new cars
> is
> often made of plastic and does turn cloudy over time.

That's definitely true.  The Buick is on its third set.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Aug 22 15:28:57 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 14:28:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <B8D06489B3FF447FAE997307BB55D080@mikeslaptop>
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC><80F5023D-14B0-4DEC-9EF5-1660E56A8655@cox.net><38007E4399014E1E8632D890F9B841B7@newcomputer>
	<F292F5BFBDFD4BF4B324CCC70FA8FA40@newcomputer>
	<B8D06489B3FF447FAE997307BB55D080@mikeslaptop>
Message-ID: <2741654946E644E486BC5FB6DCFD0CAC@newcomputer>

My grandfather whose listed occupation was "Drayman" would have liked to
know that.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Marr [mailto:mmarr at notwires.com] 
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:56 PM
To: Joe Curry; '60TR3A'; 'Lisa Richardson'
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Headlamps

Yabbut, a dray is a horsedrawn cart used for deliveries, that was often 
drawn by two horses.  Two horspower is approximately 1,492 watts, while two 
headlamps on high beam draw about 1,440 watts, so you were pretty darn 
close!

Mike (who is bored this afternoon)



> That should be Draw not Dray.  Spell checkers don't consider context.
>
> Joe

From dkspence at telus.net  Fri Aug 22 15:37:01 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 15:37:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1219428001.19410.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1219428001.19410.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B76F1374-F7CE-46CD-ACC0-326421A5AF90@telus.net>

Guys , forget the high tech. I will be snail mailing him a pencil  
rubbing complete with lower edge this weekend.




On 22-Aug-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Date: August 22, 2008 10:27:49 AM MDT (CA)
> To: <308gtsi at adelphia.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
>
>
>> I have a spare TR4A trunk lid I can make a hole pattern from.  
>> Getting it
>> from physical paper to electronic will be my biggest challenge... any
>> ideas?
>
> Take several photos, with a ruler taped to the lid in strategic  
> locations.
>
> Randall

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Aug 22 15:36:42 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 16:36:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC><80F5023D-14B0-4DEC-9EF5-1660E56A8655@cox.net><38007E4399014E1E8632D890F9B841B7@newcomputer>
	<F292F5BFBDFD4BF4B324CCC70FA8FA40@newcomputer>
	<B8D06489B3FF447FAE997307BB55D080@mikeslaptop>
	<2741654946E644E486BC5FB6DCFD0CAC@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <683F04F6118C49FEBD9691A9A105B57D@mikeslaptop>

Back in the day, beer was delivered to the pubs of England by horse-drawn 
dray.  The horses always preferred it when they were hauling light ale...

Mike (who won't give up his day job)




> My grandfather whose listed occupation was "Drayman" would have liked to
> know that.
>
> Joe

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Fri Aug 22 16:17:36 2008
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 18:17:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
Message-ID: <bbe.31275737.35e09500@aol.com>

Hah!  My indepth, analytic thesis was right!  Put the pattern in the mail!!!!

Lou Metelko


**************
It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find 
your travel deal here.
      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 22 16:30:56 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 15:30:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] oil pressure
Message-ID: <132302.73548.qm@web59605.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Just got finished re-torqueing the head, setting the valves fine tuning timing ect. after 250 miles on new engine overhaul.  

Took off for a test drive this evening and within 100 feet noticed no oil pressure.  pressure has been awesome since overhaul so not sure what's up.  Pulled off the line at block and didn't notice any plugs there.  took apart a spare guage in order to understand how they work.  Next step will be to take out ball/spring doohinky and check.  How does one check pressure at the block?  hook up spare guage and see if there's pressure?   *sigh*

gary n.

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Aug 22 16:42:54 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 18:42:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
Message-ID: <bd4.3a5ea43e.35e09aee@aol.com>

My grandfather whose listed occupation was "Drayman" would have liked  to
know that.

Joe


In the transportation business, the term dray and drayage are still in use  
to describe a truck moving a trailer or ocean container a short distance...in 
my  company's case from El Paso, TX to Cd. Juarez, CH.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay





In a message dated 8/22/2008 3:29:45 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
spitlist at cox.net writes:

My  grandfather whose listed occupation was "Drayman" would have liked to
know  that.

Joe






**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Fri Aug 22 17:05:59 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 16:05:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <bbe.31275737.35e09500@aol.com>
References: <bbe.31275737.35e09500@aol.com>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10808221605j3aaa37ddl74cf35846924077c@mail.gmail.com>

Sounds like I've got patterns coming from all directions! US Mail works for
me.
Guess I'll sharpen up my punch to locate for the drill. Scary.
Thanks to you all. All you guys need to get the blood flowing and the gears
turning is a new little problem.
John

On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 3:17 PM, <Loumetelko at aol.com> wrote:

> Hah!  My indepth, analytic thesis was right!  Put the pattern in the
> mail!!!!
>
> Lou Metelko
>
>
> **************
> It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find
> your travel deal here.
>
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From elliottr at rmi.net  Fri Aug 22 19:04:11 2008
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 20:04:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] GT6 rear "badge bar" ?
In-Reply-To: <20080822041807.FKRY13299.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <20080822041807.FKRY13299.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <48AF620B.4030902@rmi.net>

That picture is on the back of an original Triumph GT6 sales brochure 
that I have.  It is mentioned inside as an optional bumper guard.

Roger Elliott

Randall wrote:
> Can anyone confirm that the chrome horizontal bar in this photo was an
> aftermarket or optional item?
> http://wikicars.org/en/Image:Triumph_gt6_rear_t.jpg
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as elliottr at rmi.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 22 19:50:35 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 18:50:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <132302.73548.qm@web59605.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <132302.73548.qm@web59605.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <64BA1934277740CEA3674F72DBFC3A10@jdnet.deere.com>

> Next step will
> be to take out ball/spring doohinky and check.

IMO, not worth looking there.  Even with a broken spring, you should see
_some_ pressure.

> How does one check pressure at the block?

A couple of things come to mind (assuming this is a TRactor motor).  One is
to start the engine very briefly (or even just spin it with the starter and
the spark plugs out) with the line to the gauge disconnected (or removed
from the filter head), and see if oil sprays out of the line/opening.
Obviously that's kind of drastic, but if you really have no oil pressure at
all, you want to keep engine run time to an absolute minimum or it soon
won't run at all (and will be much more difficult to fix).

Those Bourdon tube type gauges can fail suddenly, but I've never seen a TR
version fail completely like that.  What I have seen happen is the drive to
the oil pump shear off, due to a bound-up pump.  Since the weakest part of
the drive is right at the pump, the distributor keeps turning (and hence the
engine still runs fine until the bearings lock up due to lack of oil).

I was doing about 70 when it happened to me (oil pump sucked up a piece of
FOD through the broken screen), but got the engine shut down before the
bearings were ruined.  Even the pump was OK (once I got the broken locktab
out of it), so the shaft and pan gasket were the only casualties.  But I
changed the rod bearings anyway, just because I had the pan off.

But a friend of a friend (of a friend) didn't notice his loss of oil
pressure until the bearings overheated ... time for a new crankshaft.

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Aug 22 21:13:31 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 23:13:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] oil pressure
Message-ID: <d01.3a695884.35e0da5b@aol.com>

Gary,
I have a friend who had the same problem with a freshly rebuilt 3A  motor.  
All of a sudden in very few miles the oil pressure went to  zero.  I helped him 
out with the second rebuild and this is what I  found.  Go to the Moss 
catalogue Internal Engine.  Part 32 #325-180  had sheared (god knows why) and the 
part 33 #836-510 was permitted to slip up  inside part 31 #836-520, and 
disengage the shaft from the oil pump.  His  first assessment of the situation was 
that the combination of part 31 and 33 was  too short and was made wrong, but 
after closer inspection I found that the pin  was sheared.  The shaft would 
engage enough to build oil pressure but the  slightest amount of play would allow 
the tang to slip out and the pump stopped  rotating.  Going inside the sump to 
see if the pump was engaged did not  reveal this.  It happened when the motor 
was running.  I am not sure,  but it appears that the dizzy was tightened down 
mighty hard with the tang  not engaged in the slot of the pump shaft.
This is a long shot that this would happen twice in the same universe, but  
it is worth a look. 
It may be for a different reason, but make sure your shaft and pump are  
engaged at all times. 
 
David
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Aug 23 06:20:45 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 12:20:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
Message-ID: <082320081220.16277.48B0009D000E7B9600003F9522155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

My Sainted Irish grandfather drove garbage "dray" in Santa Cruz, CA shortly before the turn of the 20th century.  The local paper has an article about his wild driving leading to a road accident.  He was, ahem, speeding.

It was daylight, but I suspect the dray was outfitted with a lantern and a candle, which still serves as a Lucas headlamp, does it not???

Terry ('59 TR3A TS 58667)
New Hampshire


> My grandfather whose listed occupation was "Drayman" would have liked to 
> know that. 
> 
> Joe 

> Yabbut, a dray is a horsedrawn cart used for deliveries, that was often 
> drawn by two horses. Two horspower is approximately 1,492 watts, while two 
> headlamps on high beam draw about 1,440 watts, so you were pretty darn 
> close! 
> 
> Mike (who is bored this afternoon) 
> 
> 
> 
> > That should be Draw not Dray. Spell checkers don't consider context. 
> > 
> > Joe 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug 23 08:55:47 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:55:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <004a01c90470$fc882980$6801a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <mailman.22949.1219420648.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<004a01c90470$fc882980$6801a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W382616208F849A95E7F1ADE5650@phx.gbl>

Scan the trunk lid.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Get ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to share.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
_Gallery_082008

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug 23 09:06:48 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 15:06:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <80F5023D-14B0-4DEC-9EF5-1660E56A8655@cox.net>
References: <57DB1C99EEA4402EA0E618D16C8120A8@LisaRichardsPC>
	<80F5023D-14B0-4DEC-9EF5-1660E56A8655@cox.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W9A40D40087C3994B147D7E5650@phx.gbl>

I have made one improvement to both the TR3As I have owned that improved the
head light illumination.  I splice a wire into the ground wire for the head
lamps and then run it through the space beside the radiator on each side.
Then, after soldering the correct size terminal ring on the wire end, I bolt
it down on the horn mount.  This has cured dim lights on both cars.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Get thousands of games on your PC, your mobile phone, and the web with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588800/direct/01/

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug 23 09:34:23 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 15:34:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10808221605j3aaa37ddl74cf35846924077c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bbe.31275737.35e09500@aol.com>
	<cd09b7f10808221605j3aaa37ddl74cf35846924077c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W40F449DF2BF4DC14C2A34BE5650@phx.gbl>

Before you punch and drill the holes remember to tape the area with good
masking tape first.  This helps prevent cracking of the paint when you punch
and drill.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Aug 23 09:39:52 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 08:39:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W40F449DF2BF4DC14C2A34BE5650@phx.gbl>
References: <bbe.31275737.35e09500@aol.com><cd09b7f10808221605j3aaa37ddl74cf35846924077c@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY110-W40F449DF2BF4DC14C2A34BE5650@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <FB09EF9E34034CB0993B0F1F6DC953F0@newcomputer>

Or better still, don't drill holes at all.  If you cut the posts off the
letters with a Dremmel tool and cutoff wheel, you can use 3M double stick
body trim tape to apply the lettering.  

It makes mistakes forgivable. It prevents the problem of rusting out around
the holes.  And it keeps the letters from vibrating as they are prone to do.

That is what I did several years ago and I have not lost a single letter.

Joe


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom
white
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 8:34 AM
To: Lee&John Howard; loumetelko at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; dkspence at telus.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4

Before you punch and drill the holes remember to tape the area with good
masking tape first.  This helps prevent cracking of the paint when you punch
and drill.

Best regards,
Tom

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug 23 10:12:28 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 09:12:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <FB09EF9E34034CB0993B0F1F6DC953F0@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <20080823161228.FTBK6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Or better still, don't drill holes at all.  If you cut the 
> posts off the letters with a Dremmel tool and cutoff wheel, 
> you can use 3M double stick body trim tape to apply the lettering.  

How do you trim the tape to match the outline of the letter?

Randall

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Sat Aug 23 10:20:34 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 09:20:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <20080823161228.FTBK6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <FB09EF9E34034CB0993B0F1F6DC953F0@newcomputer>
	<20080823161228.FTBK6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10808230920q68a031c3oa5e35d412b36b1e2@mail.gmail.com>

Joe
Interesting. I taped mine on 8-9 years ago as you suggest, but have begun to
lose them. Maybe I wash too vigorously.
Using a razor knife, I did manage to affix them so no tape shows and they
are lined up nicely  (albeit not spaced correctly.)
Thanks
John
On Sat, Aug 23, 2008 at 9:12 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Or better still, don't drill holes at all.  If you cut the
> > posts off the letters with a Dremmel tool and cutoff wheel,
> > you can use 3M double stick body trim tape to apply the lettering.
>
> How do you trim the tape to match the outline of the letter?
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug 23 10:38:28 2008
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 09:38:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Zero Oil Pressure
Message-ID: <486219.45923.qm@web80405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Have a look at the oil  pump drive system by removing the distributor and
carefully inspecting the shaft and the tang at the bottom of the shaft. Try to
turn the pump by hand using a long flat blade screwdriver. You might find
the slot at the top of the pump shaft sheared off.  Last Oct, while driving to
SE VTR at Jekyll Island GA, the oil pressure on my TR4 suddenly went to zero. 
The cause was failure of the two inter-meshed pump vanes which wore to the
point they would no longer turn, shearing the slot at the top of the pump
shaft. The failed pump was 'rebuilt' in '95 (some 25,000 miles ago) and the
rebuild kit components failed - more substandard aftermarket parts from an
unknown source. In the course of rebuilding the engine last winter, we used an
oil pump made up of the best combination of original used StanPart pieces I
could find.  
 
brgds, Jay
 
'64 Triumph TR4 since '67

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Aug 23 12:38:03 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 11:38:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10808230920q68a031c3oa5e35d412b36b1e2@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FB09EF9E34034CB0993B0F1F6DC953F0@newcomputer>
	<20080823161228.FTBK6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<cd09b7f10808230920q68a031c3oa5e35d412b36b1e2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808231138g449e4224ha44414bc8e21f7ab@mail.gmail.com>

I like the 2-sided tape idea but if you do drill holes this is what I
did to affix the letters:

http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/BootRack5.JPG

The old metal blind fixes (covered with plasticene) were too tedious
to remove for routine wash & wax, yet I would get a wax build up and
an uneven shine in the area around each letter.

Using small sections of thick-walled small ID rubber tubing pressed on
each post has held the letters (front & rear) quite securely for many
miles -- yet it is easy to remove the letters for thorough detailing.

Those who have seen the car will correctly suspect that this occurs
about once a year on a daily driver.

On the front letters I used just one piece of tubing for each letter,
longer and shaped into a U to go over both posts.  Probably would work
on the rear but didn't figure that trick out until later.

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat Aug 23 13:00:43 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 15:00:43 EDT
Subject: [TR] Uncle Jack's Miata Seat Conversion Kit
Message-ID: <bc3.2ff89192.35e1b85b@cs.com>

Guys,

Uncle Jack did a production run of the subject brackets this summer.  Sadly, 
we had his funeral last Thursday.  I encouraged him to do this conversion as 
he had done this to his own TR6 and we have the resources to design and produce.

I wish to help with any further business regarding the brackets.  Some maybe 
expecting a shipping of the brackets. Some may want to purchase a set. Some 
have have installation problems and questions and I will want to help resolve.

I have no financial interest.

I had one email regarding the installation of a kit in a TR4A. There was some 
interference in the motion of the seat. I need to know if there are any other 
issues with installation so we can plan to deal with them.

If you are going to be with us at Watkins Glen, we will have some kits there. 
Ted Liberti, I know is going to pick up a couple of sets.

You will want to join us, as guests, in the Triumph Paddock, in any case. 
(Jack's son Tony will be racing....likely very close to the front) We will be 
celebrating the Life of Jack Drews.

Regards,

Joe Alexander
Friends of Triumph

   </HTML>

From mathews at uga.edu  Sat Aug 23 13:02:26 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 15:02:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4--Trimming the tape
In-Reply-To: <20080823161228.FTBK6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <FB09EF9E34034CB0993B0F1F6DC953F0@newcomputer>
	<20080823161228.FTBK6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <20080823190215.4E8711878C3@autox.team.net>

I've not done it but I would affix enough tape to each letter and 
then trim it with an xacto knife right at the edge.

Or maybe I don't know what the back of the letter looks like! :-)
Doug

At 12:12 PM 8/23/2008, you wrote:
>How do you trim the tape to match the outline of the letter?

From lisa at josephvincelli.com  Sat Aug 23 13:24:13 2008
From: lisa at josephvincelli.com (Lisa Richardson)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:24:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Original Tail Lamp Assemblies
Message-ID: <D5E703D77FB14DE5912344140BB7766E@LisaRichardsPC>

List and Club,
 
Thanks for the headlamp information. I have recently found in my garage a
pair of original TR6 Complete Tail Lamp Assemblies and noticed in the
catalog at TRF that a set of reproductions go for $899.00. Part number RFK
1715.  Before ebaying I thought I would ask all if anyone had any use for
the originals. I will also contact my car club. I have a TR3 I'm restoring
and the money would best be used there than in a box in my garage.
 
Lisa

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat Aug 23 13:37:42 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 15:37:42 EDT
Subject: [TR] Nyloc Nut Size for the Rear Dif Mounts
Message-ID: <c15.218ee656.35e1c106@cs.com>

What size threads on the rear dif isolator mounts.

Thanks in advance.

Joe Alexander   </HTML>

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Sat Aug 23 14:56:51 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 16:56:51 EDT
Subject: [TR] toyota transmission
Message-ID: <bfb.43ad7b4f.35e1d393@aol.com>

hi Guys
Is there a way to tell one Toyota W transmission from another?
I of course want the W-58 with the 0.783 fifth gear.
I realize I can paint a dot on the input and output shaft, put the trans in 
5th and turn the input one revolution.
But if there is a marking somewhere on the casing, its a lot easier to get 
the junk yard to check it over the phone and save myself running all over 
California.
Also I understand there are some differences in bellhousing to gear shift 
dimension? Yes /no?
If so how is that dimension difference achieved?
thanks
Frank Fisher
Temecula CA



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 23 15:19:16 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:19:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] oil pressure more info
Message-ID: <382424.32160.qm@web59605.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

problem is zero oil pressure.  I've blown through the oil line from block to
guage, ok. took apart guage and seems ok.......can't blow through that.LOL 
taken off oil pump and it looks good.  tang is not broken or twisted.  tang
measures little over 1/4 of an inch on end of pump shaft.  It fits up into
slot in the drive ok.
my question is............is it possible for the
dizzy.......(or the drive off the dizzy)..... to spin on the oil pump shaft
without seating in the slot?   because i had the dizzy out of the car and back
in just prior to the drive where i noticed no oil pressure.  since nothing
seems to be visibly wrong i'm thinking that might be the only reason.
thanks! 
thanks in advance
gary n.

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Aug 23 15:36:51 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:36:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <20080823161228.FTBK6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <FB09EF9E34034CB0993B0F1F6DC953F0@newcomputer>
	<20080823161228.FTBK6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <E9C3C39BB2EE42D7AF4D58DC6EFB93F8@newcomputer>

The tape has a backing.  If you leave it on while sticking it to the back of
the letter, you can easily trim it with an Xacto Knife.  Then you can peel
the backing off when you get ready to apply the letters.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Randall
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 9:12 AM
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4

> Or better still, don't drill holes at all.  If you cut the 
> posts off the letters with a Dremmel tool and cutoff wheel, 
> you can use 3M double stick body trim tape to apply the lettering.  

How do you trim the tape to match the outline of the letter?

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Aug 23 15:39:43 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:39:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10808230920q68a031c3oa5e35d412b36b1e2@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FB09EF9E34034CB0993B0F1F6DC953F0@newcomputer><20080823161228.FTBK6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<cd09b7f10808230920q68a031c3oa5e35d412b36b1e2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EA0A2D597A1A4829B01B2639BD8734AC@newcomputer>

When using the 3M auto trim tape, it is mandatory that you clean the paint
with something like PPG acryli-clean in order to remove any wax that could
interfere with the adhesive. 

Afterwards, apply wax as normal to the surrounding surface to protect the
exposed paint.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Lee&John Howard
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 9:21 AM
To: Randall
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4

Joe
Interesting. I taped mine on 8-9 years ago as you suggest, but have begun to
lose them. Maybe I wash too vigorously.
Using a razor knife, I did manage to affix them so no tape shows and they
are lined up nicely  (albeit not spaced correctly.)
Thanks
John
On Sat, Aug 23, 2008 at 9:12 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Or better still, don't drill holes at all.  If you cut the
> > posts off the letters with a Dremmel tool and cutoff wheel,
> > you can use 3M double stick body trim tape to apply the lettering.
>
> How do you trim the tape to match the outline of the letter?
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Aug 23 17:07:27 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 19:07:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] toyota transmission
In-Reply-To: <bfb.43ad7b4f.35e1d393@aol.com>
References: <bfb.43ad7b4f.35e1d393@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601c90575$058aba20$210110ac@bobspc>

Frank,
Here's the gear ratios (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5speedRatio.htm)
Mine was out of an '83 Celica and has the 0.783 5th gear but I never could
find any markings on the tranny case itself. Further down that page you can
see how I determined the ratio. 

There are lots of W58 tranny's out there but only the ones listed in gear
ratio table will fit without any modifications. Having said that........Dane
Wilson is using a W58 from a '92 Supra but it required changing out the
Shift Lever Housing to the same one on the tranny's that Herman recommends.
It's Toyota part number 33502-14100 and costs about $130. Expensive part but
it opens up more W58 trannys that will work with the kit. 

Here's some good links:
A good link resource on how to take apart the transmission incase you need
to change or modify the part: 
http://www.celicasupra.com/w58teardown/csw58.html 

Other references: 
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/loats/technical/ma61/gearboxes.html 

http://alldrivelineparts.com/transmissions/tw56cp.html 

Complete Toyota W58 transmission service manual: 
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=MT&P=1 

Complete Toyota Electronic Parts Catalog for W58 (MkIII Supra) 
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/chassis.aspx 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_W_Transmission#W58 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of FGFO1 at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 4:57 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] toyota transmission

hi Guys
Is there a way to tell one Toyota W transmission from another?
I of course want the W-58 with the 0.783 fifth gear.
I realize I can paint a dot on the input and output shaft, put the trans in
5th and turn the input one revolution.
But if there is a marking somewhere on the casing, its a lot easier to get
the junk yard to check it over the phone and save myself running all over
California.
Also I understand there are some differences in bellhousing to gear shift
dimension? Yes /no?
If so how is that dimension difference achieved?
thanks
Frank Fisher
Temecula CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug 23 18:02:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 17:02:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <E9C3C39BB2EE42D7AF4D58DC6EFB93F8@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <20080824000255.SXVG28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> The tape has a backing.  If you leave it on while sticking it 
> to the back of the letter, you can easily trim it with an 
> Xacto Knife.  Then you can peel the backing off when you get 
> ready to apply the letters.

Thanks for the explanation, Joe.  I thought it was something like that, but
wasn't sure.  I'll try it, next time the subject comes up.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Aug 23 18:38:00 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 20:38:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] British nip
Message-ID: <019001c90581$a9e33690$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
I am tightening up the top end of my shock absorber and shock tower.  Why does
the manual say to use two nuts (a nut and a locknut)?  What does it mean when
it says: "to tighten the nut sufficiently to nip the plain washers and metal
sleeve".  (Front Suspension p.8, 11 g )

Thanks, Paul   60 TR3

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From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Aug 23 18:42:06 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 20:42:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil pressure gizmo
Message-ID: <019b01c90582$3c161fa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List, After reading David's reply shown below, I had to ask a question.

 By now, engines proably come with such a device.  But is there a gizmo that
shuts the engine off (or blinks a red light) if a motor's oil pressure drops
significantly?
Anything like this for a TRactor Motor?

thanks, Paul   60 TR3

--------------------------------------------------
Gary,
I have a friend who had the same problem with a freshly rebuilt 3A  motor.
All of a sudden in very few miles the oil pressure went to  zero.  I helped
him
out with the second rebuild and this is what I  found.  Go to the Moss
catalogue Internal Engine.  Part 32 #325-180  had sheared (god knows why)
and the
part 33 #836-510 was permitted to slip up  inside part 31 #836-520, and
disengage the shaft from the oil pump.  His  first assessment of the
situation was
that the combination of part 31 and 33 was  too short and was made wrong,
but
after closer inspection I found that the pin  was sheared.  The shaft would
engage enough to build oil pressure but the  slightest amount of play would
allow
the tang to slip out and the pump stopped  rotating.  Going inside the sump
to
see if the pump was engaged did not  reveal this.  It happened when the
motor
was running.  I am not sure,  but it appears that the dizzy was tightened
down
mighty hard with the tang  not engaged in the slot of the pump shaft.
This is a long shot that this would happen twice in the same universe, but
it is worth a look.
It may be for a different reason, but make sure your shaft and pump are
engaged at all times.

David



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From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Aug 23 18:59:24 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 20:59:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] tightening top of shock
Message-ID: <01a401c90584$a7256ec0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
I continue to try and tighten the shock absorber (already in place) at it's
top.  However, it's top spindle is in fact, turning within the shock absorber.
How am I ever gonna get two, or even one nut on it?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey

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From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Aug 23 19:21:30 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 18:21:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] tightening top of shock
In-Reply-To: <01a401c90584$a7256ec0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <01a401c90584$a7256ec0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <F1CF83DDFD59459789256E1EDC32489E@newcomputer>

Typically, there are two flats on the very top of the shaft that you can use
to keep the shaft from turning while you tighten the first nut.  Hold that
flat place with a pair of pliers of crescent wrench while installing the
first nut.

Once the first nit is sufficiently tightened, you can then install the lock
nut and once it contacts the first nut, you can lock them by Trying to
loosen the first nut while tightening the second one (spinning in opposite
directions.  That puts torque on the threads to keep both from turning.

Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
dorpaul
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 5:59 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] tightening top of shock

List,
I continue to try and tighten the shock absorber (already in place) at it's
top.  However, it's top spindle is in fact, turning within the shock
absorber.
How am I ever gonna get two, or even one nut on it?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey

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From mathews at uga.edu  Sat Aug 23 20:00:04 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 22:00:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil pressure gizmo
In-Reply-To: <019b01c90582$3c161fa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <019b01c90582$3c161fa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080824015948.7A7EC1878AB@autox.team.net>

Paul,

Here is one example.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-G1438&N=700+-151266+115&autoview=sku

At 08:42 PM 8/23/2008, you wrote:
>  By now, engines proably come with such a device.  But is there a gizmo that
>shuts the engine off (or blinks a red light) if a motor's oil pressure drops
>significantly?
>Anything like this for a TRactor Motor?
>
>thanks, Paul   60 TR3

From dkspence at telus.net  Sat Aug 23 20:26:27 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 20:26:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Re Triumph letter mounting TR4
In-Reply-To: <mailman.23076.1219543189.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.23076.1219543189.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <66C3DF49-0CC4-4012-8984-E2A95762C0EC@telus.net>

Another solution is low temp heat shrink tubing as used for  
insulating electrical connections. Snug fit and removable as well.


On 23-Aug-08, at 7:59 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph letter mounting TR4
>
>
> I like the 2-sided tape idea but if you do drill holes this is what I
> did to affix the letters:
>
> http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/BootRack5.JPG
>
> The old metal blind fixes (covered with plasticene) were too tedious
> to remove for routine wash & wax, yet I would get a wax build up and
> an uneven shine in the area around each letter.
>
> Using small sections of thick-walled small ID rubber tubing pressed on
> each post has held the letters (front & rear) quite securely for many
> miles -- yet it is easy to remove the letters for thorough detailing.
>
> Those who have seen the car will correctly suspect that this occurs
> about once a year on a daily driver.
>
> On the front letters I used just one piece of tubing for each letter,
> longer and shaped into a U to go over both posts.  Probably would work
> on the rear but didn't figure that trick out until later.

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sat Aug 23 22:19:25 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 23:19:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] British nip
References: <019001c90581$a9e33690$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <F1649867D3D2469CA56661B93428967B@mikeslaptop>

It means that you tighten the first nut sufficiently to hold the plain 
washers and the sleeve together as an assembly, without over-torquing the 
nut.  This applies the correct preload to the upper and lower rubber 
mountings.  The lock nut is applied to hold the first nut in place. 
Remember to hold the first nut with a wrench while torquing the lock-nut 
against it.

When this is all done, drink a small shot (a "nip") of Glenfiddich in 
celebration.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 7:38 PM
Subject: [TR] British nip


> List,
> I am tightening up the top end of my shock absorber and shock tower.  Why 
> does
> the manual say to use two nuts (a nut and a locknut)?  What does it mean 
> when
> it says: "to tighten the nut sufficiently to nip the plain washers and 
> metal
> sleeve".  (Front Suspension p.8, 11 g )

From banjonut at verizon.net  Sat Aug 23 22:28:42 2008
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 21:28:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Upper control arms needed
Message-ID: <67D21AB1A4E44ACF8783FFA39829B9C4@HAMPC>

Hello list,

I'm right in the middle of a front suspension rebuild on my '60 TR3A.  All
four of the upper control arms (upper A-arms) were cracked, so I obtained
replacements for them.  I rebuilt the R/H suspension...no problem.  I'm
working on the L/H side, and I realized today that at least one of these two
replacement arms is bent, so I want to obtain another pair ASAP, as it's
holding up my rebuild.  I'm 90% sure it's just the L/H rear arm that's bent,
but I'd be willing to buy the pair just to be sure I get two straight ones.

Does anybody want to sell a good pair of upper control arms that have been
"reinforced" (boxed in along the bottom edge)?  If so please contact me
off-list since I get the digest.

Thanks in advance,

Steve Ball
Lompoc Ca
TS68164L
email: banjonut at verizon.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug 23 22:41:14 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 21:41:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil pressure gizmo
In-Reply-To: <019b01c90582$3c161fa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080824044114.YSR2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

>  By now, engines proably come with such a device.  But is 
> there a gizmo that shuts the engine off

There are such things, but they are rarely (if ever) found on cars.  Usually
found on "stationary" engines that run without human supervision, like air
compressors and such.

> (or blinks a red light)

Practically all modern cars have a red light for no oil pressure (generally
instead of a gauge).

> Anything like this for a TRactor Motor?

I don't know of anyone selling a kit specifically for the TR2-4, but you
could add one yourself, if you like.  Easiest, IMO, would be to drill and
tap the oil filter head in a strategic spot for a standard oil pressure
light sender (as found, for example, on TR250 and early TR6).  1/8" NPT
IIRC.  Then mount and wire up a suitable red light, with power from the
ignition switch and grounded through the switch.

Randall

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Sun Aug 24 08:16:33 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 10:16:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] oil pressure gizmo
Message-ID: <cf1.3e937e23.35e2c741@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/24/2008 12:41:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

>  By now, engines proably come with such a device.  But  is 
> there a gizmo that shuts the engine off

There are such  things, but they are rarely (if ever) found on cars.  
 
 
TR8s have them - fuel pump wired thru oil pressure switch - no oil  pressure, 
no power to fuel pump.
looks just like the oil pressure switch somebody posted a link to at Summit  
Racing.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc






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deal here.      
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From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 24 08:25:47 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 14:25:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] oil pressure gizmo
In-Reply-To: <019b01c90582$3c161fa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <019b01c90582$3c161fa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W422D14F6AE8BEB4911B2CEE5640@phx.gbl>

I had a gizmo on my race car that illuminated a big red light on my dash if
oil pressure went to zero.  It was connect to a pressure switch of some kind
in my oil pressure feed line.  Check Summit of Jegs for the switch.

Best regards,
Tom



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From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Aug 24 10:45:10 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 12:45:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil pressure gizmo
References: <cf1.3e937e23.35e2c741@aol.com>
Message-ID: <01e501c90608$c68c0560$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

How would one hook up a Summit $16 oil pressure switch like the one Doug 
Mathews found at:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1438&N=700+4294816030+115&autoview=sku

and pdf instructions (which I can't decipher) at:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-g1438.pdf

I'm halfway thinking I'll get one.  At least, I need one.

Thanks, Paul 


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From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Aug 24 11:25:13 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 13:25:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] rebound rubber location?
Message-ID: <01fc01c9060e$5f29bf10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I have been working on my stationary TR3, which I bought as an abandoned
restoration for over 5 years.  That partially explains my ignorance.

I remember removing the 'rebound rubber' from each front wheel.  The car is
mostly assembled, however, I do not see this part on the car or in my boxes of
parts.

Actually I don't know where to look on my car... the manual's show the part
kinda floating in space.  Where does it attach?  Is it within the springs?

Thanks, Paul


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From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sun Aug 24 12:29:36 2008
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 14:29:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] Nyloc Nut on Tie-Rod Ends
Message-ID: <c9d.2f271f91.35e30290@aol.com>

List,
I had a frightening experience last nite: steering failure on my GT6.   The 
Nyloc nut came off the left tie-rod end and the end popped out of its tapered 
hole in the steering arm - fortunately, it happened right in my garage!   I 
replaced the (missing) Nyloc nut with a Grade 8 nut and lock washer, then 
double-checked the tightness of the Nyloc on the right side.   The threads stripped 
right out!   
Although the nut has the gold color of Grade 8 hardware, it has no markings 
and is the height of a jam nut (about six threads) plus the Nylon locking 
feature.   I have lost my confidence in Nyloc nuts in such critical applications.   
Sadly, just about all tie-rod ends seem to use Nylocs instead of the 
old-fashioned (and reliable) castellated nut and cotter pin.
Let this be a "Heads Up" to anyone who is using Nylock nuts in their tie-rod 
ends.   It might have happened on the road rather than in the garage!
George Haynes


**************
It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. 
Find your travel deal here.
      
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From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Aug 24 12:36:09 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 11:36:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] rebound rubber location?
In-Reply-To: <01fc01c9060e$5f29bf10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <01fc01c9060e$5f29bf10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808241136t13800546lfb87f4c32841d30e@mail.gmail.com>

Try this...

http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Rebound.JPG

That's a TR4 but I think it was unchanged from the '3.

As I recall that rubber block is just 'glued' to the metal piece --
anyway I had one fall off once and I just glued it back on.

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Aug 24 13:09:32 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 13:09:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] Kastner Cup, Watkins Glen NY Triumph Team 44, TTA 2009 Drive
Message-ID: <48B1B1EC.903@tscusa.org>

Hi All,

Okay I'm BAAAACK!!
   
I have not been watching the lists too closely due to being 200% into 
this new job, but I note a curious lack of publicity for one of the 
premier Triumph events of this century.

September 5,6,7 2008 at Watkins Glen!

Triumph Race cars, Triumph Race drivers, Concours d' Elegance car shows, 
sight seeing, Lake Seneca, wineries and food, antiques and shopping,  
Triumph celebrities with sports car and racing journalists from all over 
the world, the US Vintage Gran Prix,  and remembrance of those great 
drivers and cars of the past.
 If you are into Triumphs, THIS is the event you should not miss.  But 
if you are into Triumphs, you already know about this epic event.
You will see many of the Friends of Triumph racers  
http://www.fot-racing.com/ who are some of our own marques racing 
legends, including Kas Kastner and more!
I am of course talking about 60 years of memories in one great weekend!  
Watkins Glen International Raceway is celebrating its 60th birthday - 60 
years of Road Racing at the Glen, and featuring the Triumph Marque and 
vintage racers.  Anyone associated with Triumphs and Road Racing will be 
there for the 3 days of celebrations, including a grand festival and car 
show hosted by the town of Watkins Glen.

If you have not made room reservations yet, you will find the closest 
rooms are 50 miles or more away, so expect a drive.

What does this have to do with the TTA 2009 Charity Drive?

Well,  John Macartney is scheduled to attend this historic festival 
event and be in the "Legends Speak" tent at the Grand Prix Festival in 
the town of Watkins Glen, and at the VIP paddock on the race grounds.  I 
will be joining John as the North American 2009 Drive Coordinator as we 
officially kick off the Triumph Trans America 2009 Charity Drive in 
Watkins Glen 4-7 September.  The key to the ignition of the TTA Stag 
starting this drive is only 11 months, and the key to our kickoff is the 
Watkins Glen 60th celebrations.

If you and/or your club have volunteered to support this drive, please 
stop by and chat with us.  If you have worked on the TTA Stag, 
definitely stop by and sign the TTA poster board as a volunteer!!  This 
will be our next step in planning and  preparing for this drive, plus we 
will have the latest photos and status of the TTA Stag being Prepared by 
the Illinois Sports Owners Association (look for STTAG Restoration Team 
Member Irv Korey and others from ISOA to have Stag paint and grease 
under their fingernails!)

See http://www.grandprixfestival.com for details of events on 5 
September, http://www.theglen.com for information about the 60 years 
celebration and races, and for information on the Triumph Trans AmeriCan 
2009 Charity Drive, go to http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/

See you there!!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
TTA 2009 Charity Drive North American Coordinator
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun Aug 24 13:55:46 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 15:55:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Dizzy Question
Message-ID: <c81.34df241e.35e316c2@aol.com>

Hi Guys,
Still working on the 71 TR6.  My buddy Mark found a few things on the  Carbs 
so now it will hold an idle but I developed a real bad miss at low  revs 
today. I opened up the points and that got me home from Cleveland and  once home I 
reset the timing, way retarded, and it ran a little better but  not right yet. 
Intermittent fire at the plugs especially at low rpm's.  It has new wires, 
points and condenser with an old cap and  rotor. Question is that the rotor's 
leading edge is real shiny and looks  burnt and the cap has grooves worn in the 
terminals at the top. I replaced  the rotor (used one) and after 25 miles it 
looks shiny too. Mark was into  the dizzy for he says he found that the weights 
were rusted. However I  looked at the previous cap and it looks the same with 
grooves worn in. Is this  normal?  The shaft seems pretty tight. This all 
looks suspicious to  me, I can even see a few metal shavings inside the cap. This 
is an original  Lucas script cap that can't have more than 1000 miles on it.  
Distributor  was rebuilt in 1992 25,000 or so miles ago. What say the List?
Thanks,
Darrell 



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Aug 24 14:27:29 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 16:27:29 EDT
Subject: [TR] LIME ROCK
Message-ID: <c4a.359c6243.35e31e31@aol.com>

hello, anyone going to the LIME ROCK vintage races the weekend of aug.  
29-31(labor day weekend)?  larry schwartz



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From mathews at uga.edu  Sun Aug 24 16:23:07 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 18:23:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Our Brake Master Cylinder
Message-ID: <20080824222248.E851D187656@autox.team.net>

Guys and gals,

Is this for our cars?

http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GIR%2070-200

Doug 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 24 16:26:27 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 15:26:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil pressure gizmo
In-Reply-To: <cf1.3e937e23.35e2c741@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080824222627.GPQX757.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> TR8s have them - fuel pump wired thru oil pressure switch - 
> no oil pressure, no power to fuel pump.

Yeah, my bad.  Forgot about EFI systems having pump shutoffs; was only
thinking about ignition kill systems.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Aug 24 16:30:45 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 18:30:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] grease fittings at cap ends?
Message-ID: <020f01c90639$0d839700$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
Are there suppose to be grease fittings on the end caps?  Seems like I've seen
it both ways.  If not, why's the hole there?
Paul

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From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Aug 24 16:34:10 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 16:34:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] Our Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <20080824222248.E851D187656@autox.team.net>
References: <20080824222248.E851D187656@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D3BE952F921B4647B9805F5171504017@sniffer>

Doug,

This, http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GIR%2070-100, looks more
like my clutch m/c with the 45degree angle on the output port.  I especially
like the gator-style boot that is more reflective of what is shown in the
Bently's manual rather than the simple cover that is supplied with a
re-build kit.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug
Mathews
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 4:23 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Our Brake Master Cylinder

Guys and gals,

Is this for our cars?

http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GIR%2070-200

Doug
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 24 16:42:10 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 15:42:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] grease fittings at cap ends?
In-Reply-To: <020f01c90639$0d839700$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080824224210.IJNE2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Are there suppose to be grease fittings on the end caps?  
> Seems like I've seen it both ways.  If not, why's the hole there?

Not sure which "end caps" you are talking about, Paul.  If you mean the dust
caps for the front wheel bearings, then no, there is not supposed to be a
grease fitting there (although no doubt some people put one in).  The hole
is for a forcing screw, theoretically used to remove the cap without
damaging it.  The 10-32 forcing screw is supposed to be part of the standard
tool kit.

Personally, I don't like that hole, I feel it lets dust and grit into the
bearing, shortening it's life.  So, I thread a short 10-32 flat-head screw
into the hole from inside the cover, and lock it with a nut on the outside.
Then I can grab the protruding end of the screw with vise grips to pull the
cap off when needed.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 24 17:09:59 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 16:09:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Nyloc Nut on Tie-Rod Ends
In-Reply-To: <c9d.2f271f91.35e30290@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080824230959.UAGS6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Although the nut has the gold color of Grade 8 hardware, it 
> has no markings and is the height of a jam nut (about six 
> threads)

Indicating that it was a "jam" Nyloc ... not the right fastener for the job
regardless of the nylon locking feature.

> Sadly, just about all tie-rod ends seem to use Nylocs instead 
> of the old-fashioned (and reliable) castellated nut and cotter pin.

Of course, you can always drill them to convert ... I'll settle for what I
always recommend: Use a new Nyloc each and every time you replace them.

BTW, I thought all were aware of this, but maybe not ... color does NOT
indicate the grade of steel, only the anti-corrosion treatment applied.  The
yellow coatings are more common on high tensile fasteners, but can be
applied to anything.  And high tensile fasteners are available with many
different coatings, including the same gray cadmium or zinc coatings
normally found on weaker fasteners.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 24 17:19:46 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 16:19:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] rebound rubber location?
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0808241136t13800546lfb87f4c32841d30e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20080824231946.CZSG28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

Geo Hahn wrote :

> http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Rebound.JPG
> 
> That's a TR4 but I think it was unchanged from the '3.
> 
> As I recall that rubber block is just 'glued' to the metal 
> piece -- anyway I had one fall off once and I just glued it back on.

That's all correct.  I just wanted to add that there is a fairly large metal
assembly that bolts to the frame (the thing with three bolts and two big
holes visible in Geo's photo) and is normally removed when removing the
spring.  Then there is a smaller metal bracket that carries the rubber
block, held to the larger bracket by a single bolt.  

The larger bracket can be seen as item 5 at
http://tinyurl.com/68qzg4

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 24 17:41:46 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 16:41:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil pressure gizmo
In-Reply-To: <01e501c90608$c68c0560$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080824234147.JCUZ2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> How would one hook up a Summit $16 oil pressure switch like 
> the one Doug Mathews found at:
> http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part
> =SUM%2DG1438&N=700+4294816030+115&autoview=sku
> 
> and pdf instructions (which I can't decipher) at:
> http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-
> g1438.pdf

Well, what do you want it to do?  If you just want it to kill the ignition
when there is no oil pressure, you should be able to just run a wire from
terminal B to the point side of the coil; leaving the other two terminals
open.  Of course, that also means you could use a much less expensive switch
(eg GPS107, available from TRF for $8).  But, that will also make your
engine seem harder to start, since the ignition will be disabled until the
starter turns the engine enough to build oil pressure.  You can solve that
problem by adding either a pushbutton switch or a relay, to enable the
ignition while cranking.

Unless you are also converting to an electric pump, the other contacts
aren't much use to you.

Randall

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Aug 24 18:29:15 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 20:29:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Front Wheel Bearings
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPEEIAFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Hi List,
OK, I have my TR4A chassis about half put together and I am about to install
new wheel bearings in the front hubs. The wheel bearing kit has a inner and
outer bearing, a small bag of grease, and a felt seal with a thin metal
washer attached to it.
My question is what to do to prepare the felt washer? Do I soak this in
something before installation?
Also, what is the preferred way to set up the bearing backlash? I remember
reading somewhere that I should install the bearings into the hubs without
the seal and mount the hub, counting the turns on the nut until it is snug.
Then, take off the hub, install the felt washer (metal side out?) and put
the whole thing back together with the exact same number of turns on the
nut.
What is the best way to install the front wheel bearings?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 24 18:39:19 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 17:39:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Front Wheel Bearings
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPEEIAFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <20080825003918.EBFD28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> My question is what to do to prepare the felt washer? Do I 
> soak this in something before installation?

Don't know that it's "best", but I've been just leaving them dry.  Doesn't
seem to hurt anything.

> Also, what is the preferred way to set up the bearing 
> backlash? I remember reading somewhere that I should install 
> the bearings into the hubs without the seal and mount the 
> hub, counting the turns on the nut until it is snug.

I do recommend that when you're replacing the felt seal, but remember that
the proper final position is backed off 1.0 to 1.5 flats from 'snug', to
leave some clearance in the bearing.

> Then, take off the hub, install the felt washer (metal side 
> out?)

Metal side goes towards the bearing; the felt rides on the vertical link.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Aug 24 20:02:04 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 22:02:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
In-Reply-To: <F292F5BFBDFD4BF4B324CCC70FA8FA40@newcomputer>
References: <38007E4399014E1E8632D890F9B841B7@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <48B1DA5C.637.1E0647@localhost>

On 22 Aug 2008 at 12:23, Joe Curry wrote:

> That should be Draw not Dray.  Spell checkers don't consider context.

Oh great.  First fluif, now dray.  Where does it end, Joe?  You've 
got to dray the line somewhere.

:-)

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Aug 25 05:41:29 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 07:41:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Front Wheel Bearings
In-Reply-To: <20080825003918.EBFD28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPEEIAFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
	<20080825003918.EBFD28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <4656A59EA76140CF916B17421E49B8E8@DCH6RFC1>

Randall:  would you agree that the newer felt seals have a lot of (=too
much) felt ?  I actually peeled off a layer or two before installing.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Randall
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 8:39 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Front Wheel Bearings

> My question is what to do to prepare the felt washer? Do I 
> soak this in something before installation?

Don't know that it's "best", but I've been just leaving them dry.  Doesn't
seem to hurt anything.

> Also, what is the preferred way to set up the bearing 
> backlash? I remember reading somewhere that I should install 
> the bearings into the hubs without the seal and mount the 
> hub, counting the turns on the nut until it is snug.

I do recommend that when you're replacing the felt seal, but remember that
the proper final position is backed off 1.0 to 1.5 flats from 'snug', to
leave some clearance in the bearing.

> Then, take off the hub, install the felt washer (metal side 
> out?)

Metal side goes towards the bearing; the felt rides on the vertical link.

Randall
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http://www.vtr.org


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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 25 07:56:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 06:56:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Front Wheel Bearings
In-Reply-To: <4656A59EA76140CF916B17421E49B8E8@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <20080825135618.BQKV6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Randall:  would you agree that the newer felt seals have a 
> lot of (=too
> much) felt ?  I actually peeled off a layer or two before installing.

I don't know if they are all that way, but it does seem to be common.

But, as long as you set the bearing clearance without the felt in the way,
it won't hurt anything.  The procedure I suggested (mark & count turns
without the felt in place) was actually the factory-recommended procedure at
one point; so it may be that the felts were "too thick" even then.

Randall

From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Aug 25 07:59:08 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 09:59:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Front Wheel Bearings
In-Reply-To: <20080825135618.BQKV6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <4656A59EA76140CF916B17421E49B8E8@DCH6RFC1>
	<20080825135618.BQKV6020.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <33F62B011056472B90807DD9E381DD34@DCH6RFC1>

Good suggestion - Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Randall
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 9:56 AM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Front Wheel Bearings

> Randall:  would you agree that the newer felt seals have a 
> lot of (=too
> much) felt ?  I actually peeled off a layer or two before installing.

I don't know if they are all that way, but it does seem to be common.

But, as long as you set the bearing clearance without the felt in the way,
it won't hurt anything.  The procedure I suggested (mark & count turns
without the felt in place) was actually the factory-recommended procedure at
one point; so it may be that the felts were "too thick" even then.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Mon Aug 25 08:43:04 2008
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 10:43:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3a spare tire lid rubber seal
Message-ID: <fac10b170808250743mbc925ffw6e53564ef08080fb@mail.gmail.com>

I installed mine with the lip protruding "outwards" i.e. not toward the
opening for the spare tire.
This, by memory as I felt sure I had read to do so on this list. Now, I am
doubting myself - maybe that's the boot seal that has its lip facing
outward?

Anyway on securing the spare tire lid, it was a very, very, tight fit. Maybe
this is because the rubber needs to be compressed for a while, but the
centre of the lid bulges out quite a bit and it's disturbing. I put it on so
that the lip of the rubber is contained within the metal lip on the spare
tire cover. Should I have just let the edge of the rest on the rubber lip,
instead of trying to contain it? It seemed it would be an even tighter fit
this way.

Thanks,
Jim Wallace

PS The lip does go outward on the boot lid seal right?

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 25 08:52:21 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 07:52:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] no oil pressure after dizzy change-resolved i think
Message-ID: <237963.97458.qm@web59616.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

problem was no oil pressure after dizzy change.  I had turned the skew gear
that runs off cam shaft in order to turn the dizzy since vacuum canister was
hitting block.  In doing that I hadn't thought about the oil pump shaft at all
,and apparently they didn't mesh................................... so no
pressure on start up.  (i ran the car about 100 feet out....then back to
garage with no pressure)  
I found this out upon tearing everything apart from
pump to guage. and assume the distributor shaft was spinning on the oil pump
shaft without seating.  
Hope i didn't ruin anyting in the distributor with
tightening it down like that.  All fixed now (i think) and waiting on a new
oil pan gasket.  A good lesson on neophyte wrencher and why professional
mechanics.........are professionals!  
I'm sure glad we have pro's on this
list helping us all out!
thanks again to the list!
gary n

From cofrog at q.com  Mon Aug 25 09:28:03 2008
From: cofrog at q.com (DANNY D FORGEY)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 15:28:03 +0000
Subject: [TR] Nyloc Nut on Tie-Rod Ends
In-Reply-To: <c9d.2f271f91.35e30290@aol.com>
References: <c9d.2f271f91.35e30290@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU129-W15F08F679EE85DA822A2E4D4670@phx.gbl>

The smart money uses a nyloc nut once and only once.  They loose effectiveness
when reused.

Dan> From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com> Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 14:29:36 -0400> To:
triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] Nyloc Nut on Tie-Rod Ends> > List,> I
had a frightening experience last nite: steering failure on my GT6. The >
Nyloc nut came off the left tie-rod end and the end popped out of its tapered
> hole in the steering arm - fortunately, it happened right in my garage! I >
replaced the (missing) Nyloc nut with a Grade 8 nut and lock washer, then >
double-checked the tightness of the Nyloc on the right side. The threads
stripped > right out! > Although the nut has the gold color of Grade 8
hardware, it has no markings > and is the height of a jam nut (about six
threads) plus the Nylon locking > feature. I have lost my confidence in Nyloc
nuts in such critical applications. > Sadly, just about all tie-rod ends seem
to use Nylocs instead of the > old-fashioned (and reliable) castellated nut
and cotter pin.> Let this be a "Heads Up" to anyone who is using Nylock nuts
in their tie-rod > ends. It might have happened on the road rather than in the
garage!> George Haynes> > > **************> It's only a deal if it's where you
want to go. > Find your travel deal here.> >
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)>
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as
cofrog at q.com> > http://www.team.net/archive

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Aug 25 09:54:18 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 11:54:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] torque tightening
Message-ID: <023401c906ca$d5aaf0c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
I am double-checking the torque values on nuts on my front suspension.  Some
nuts which originally had just been guessed at, and were originally set too
high, are loosened and retorqued to the correct setting.  However, a couple
that can't be reached are thought to be too high.  If that's the case, should
I be concerned enuf to 'take something off so I can get to them?'

Also, is a fresh nyloc nut that much better than a thick nut and lockwasher?

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug 25 13:56:59 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 15:56:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] Headlamps
Message-ID: <be8.37b06253.35e4688b@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/24/2008 9:03:10 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> Oh great.  First fluif, now dray.  Where does it end, Joe?  You've 
> got to dray the line somewhere.
> 
> :-)
> 
It will be a cold dray in heck before he does that.

;-)

Dave   

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 25 14:01:51 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 13:01:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] grease fittings at cap ends?
In-Reply-To: <20080824224210.IJNE2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <020f01c90639$0d839700$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<20080824224210.IJNE2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808251301p37f802c2hfd473c452ce0ea2@mail.gmail.com>

I was thinking that the very early TRs had a zerk on the hub cap and
were to be filled with grease.

Certainly Paul's, mine & most others would only have that screw hole.
I back up the hole with a nut JBWelded inside the cap to grip the pull
screw a better bite.  I use a 2" screw eye with the correct threads
and run it in until it contacts the stub axle, then a couple more
twists (fingers, no wrench) brings the cap off.

Geo

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Aug 25 14:33:33 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:33:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] grease fittings at cap ends?
References: <020f01c90639$0d839700$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><20080824224210.IJNE2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<7bb181af0808251301p37f802c2hfd473c452ce0ea2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <024001c906f1$d86f7d40$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
I called them 'cap ends', but correctly I guess their 'dust caps'.  Randall 
said the hole allows for a 10-32 screw to be inserted, which "pushes" the 
cap off when it contacts the stub axle.  A nut on the inside is great too. 
This screw thing came in the original tool kit.

Thanks, Paul  60 TR3 


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From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Aug 25 14:36:30 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:36:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] grease fittings at cap ends?
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0808251301p37f802c2hfd473c452ce0ea2@mail.gmail.com>
References: <020f01c90639$0d839700$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<20080824224210.IJNE2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<7bb181af0808251301p37f802c2hfd473c452ce0ea2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CAD50963849EE3-1590-52F@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>

I was thinking that the very early TRs had a zerk on the hub cap and
were to be filled with grease....

==AM==
You might be close to correct on that.  IIRC, the earliest TR2s shared 
front hubs with the Mayflower, and that hub had a small Zerk (but not 
on the bearing cap; just next to it, though) fitting just for such a 
purpose.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Aug 25 14:46:33 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:46:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] torque tightening
Message-ID: <c0d.36c56b0e.35e47429@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/25/08 8:54:45 AM, dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes:


> List,
> I am double-checking the torque values on nuts on my front suspension. 
Some
> nuts which originally had just been guessed at, and were originally set too
> high, are loosened and retorqued to the correct setting.  However, a couple
> that can't be reached are thought to be too high.  If that's the case,
> should
> I be concerned enuf to 'take something off so I can get to them?'
>
> Also, is a fresh nyloc nut that much better than a thick nut and
lockwasher?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Dorsey  60 TR
>

Paul
I used to design miitary equipment which had to pass shck and vibration
testing. I quikly discvered that if a nut and lockwasher got the least bit
loose,
they would soon fall off. Not so with an elastic stop nut. Even if it somehow
got lose, the nut and bolt will not separate.

Best, Mike Moore


**************
It's only a deal if it's where you want to
go. Find your travel deal here.

(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 25 14:55:33 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 20:55:33 +0000
Subject: [TR] no oil pressure after dizzy change-resolved i think
Message-ID: <082520082055.586.48B31C45000B8A240000024A2205886442CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net>

From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [TR] no oil pressure after dizzy change-resolved i think
> problem was no oil pressure after dizzy change.  I had turned the skew gear
> that runs off cam shaft in order to turn the dizzy since vacuum canister was
> hitting block.  In doing that I hadn't thought about the oil pump shaft at all
> ,and apparently they didn't mesh................................... so no
> pressure on start up.  <snip>
> gary n
> ****************************************

Gary: we are all learning. Credit to you for sorting it out!

Brian
Non-professional, though enthusisatic wrench, with a TR4

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Aug 25 14:58:11 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:58:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] torque tightening
References: <c0d.36c56b0e.35e47429@aol.com>
Message-ID: <025201c906f5$498cd3d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

It kinda seems that using both a fresh nyloc nut WITH a lockwasher would be
ideal.
Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

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From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 25 15:07:05 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 17:07:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] torque tightening
In-Reply-To: <025201c906f5$498cd3d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <c0d.36c56b0e.35e47429@aol.com>
	<025201c906f5$498cd3d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W28D8E39376E898E7763BCAA5670@phx.gbl>

> It kinda seems that using both a fresh nyloc nut WITH a lockwasher would be>
ideal.> Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3
Paul, do you wear belt and suspenders at the same time?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 25 15:12:23 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:12:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] grease fittings at cap ends?
In-Reply-To: <8CAD50963849EE3-1590-52F@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
References: <020f01c90639$0d839700$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><20080824224210.IJNE2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall><7bb181af0808251301p37f802c2hfd473c452ce0ea2@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CAD50963849EE3-1590-52F@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
Message-ID: <9961649165684ED0B1FD49B99CAF14D5@jdnet.deere.com>

> IIRC, the earliest TR2s shared
> front hubs with the Mayflower, and that hub had a small Zerk (but not
> on the bearing cap; just next to it, though) fitting just for such a
> purpose.

You recall correctly (as usual), Andy.  Discontinued at TS5348 according to
the factory workshop manual.  But as you say, the zerk was on the hub, not
on the cap.

Randall

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Aug 25 15:15:11 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 17:15:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] torque tightening
In-Reply-To: <BLU143-W28D8E39376E898E7763BCAA5670@phx.gbl>
References: <c0d.36c56b0e.35e47429@aol.com>
	<025201c906f5$498cd3d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<BLU143-W28D8E39376E898E7763BCAA5670@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080825211456.E9ECB1878F3@autox.team.net>

Hey,

This is the South...of course we do! :-)

Doug

At 05:07 PM 8/25/2008, you wrote:
>do you wear belt and suspenders at the same time?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 25 15:34:13 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:34:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] torque tightening
In-Reply-To: <023401c906ca$d5aaf0c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <023401c906ca$d5aaf0c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <14BDC1E6327A49BC98028482C1737395@jdnet.deere.com>

> I am double-checking the torque values on nuts on my front suspension.
> Some
> nuts which originally had just been guessed at, and were originally set
> too
> high, are loosened and retorqued to the correct setting.  However, a
> couple
> that can't be reached are thought to be too high.  If that's the case,
> should
> I be concerned enuf to 'take something off so I can get to them?'

Paul, the question is whether they are just a little too tight, or a lot.
If it's "a lot", then IMO you should not only remove them, but replace them!

Significant over-torquing will stress a fastener beyond it's limit, which
may leave it weakened even when it doesn't break outright.  It will also
ruin gaskets in gasketed joints, distort items being bolted (especially
sheet metal like oil pans and rocker covers) and so on.

But if it's just a little, it's probably OK to leave them alone, assume we
aren't talking about something that needs a clearance set, like front wheel
bearings or trunnion thrust washers.

> Also, is a fresh nyloc nut that much better than a thick nut and
> lockwasher?

Depends on the circumstances.  Lockwashers are better sometimes, Nylocs are
better sometimes.  For a locking taper (like tie rod ends, stub axles, rear
hubs, etc.), lockwashers are a Bad Thing.  But Nylocs won't do in places
like exhaust manifolds, pipes, etc.

Best IMO is to follow the manufacturer's lead (as they had people with
college degrees in fastener technology) unless you have some specific
failure mode to address.  Just assuming they "didn't know what they were
doing" is a recipe for disaster.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Aug 25 16:09:13 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 18:09:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] torque tightening
In-Reply-To: <20080825211456.E9ECB1878F3@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU143-W28D8E39376E898E7763BCAA5670@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48B2F549.7220.46F34EA@localhost>

On 25 Aug 2008 at 17:15, Doug Mathews wrote:

> Hey,
> 
> This is the South...of course we do! :-)

> At 05:07 PM 8/25/2008, you wrote:
> >do you wear belt and suspenders at the same time?

Bless his heart...

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Tue Aug 26 16:02:54 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 16:02:54
Subject: [TR] Rusty Panel treatment
Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20080826160254.1eb75b3a@pop.west.cox.net>

Well It happened, not on my Triumph, but my 40 ford TR parts hauler.  Some
inattentive woman swerved right in front of my truck trying to enter a
driveway and dragged her explorer over the front of my fender damaging it
pretty badly.  I may be that it can be pounded out, but I have a line on a
fender that looks to be in pretty good physical shape, but has a coating of
med surface rust -  I would like to use my original fender, since it was
rust free, but if I have to get this fender I thought I would see what
worked for others
What kind of treatment would work best for coating the part after sanding
down as much of the rust as I can?  Eastwoods rust encapsulator, I have
some of that?  Remember, this isn't a frame or hidden part, but an exterior
body panel - so it would be primed and painted -

Thanks -
Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San Diego)

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Aug 25 17:14:40 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:14:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Rusty Panel treatment
In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20080826160254.1eb75b3a@pop.west.cox.net>
References: <3.0.4.16.20080826160254.1eb75b3a@pop.west.cox.net>
Message-ID: <6D54B262B3644C1DAA85ABF20BD2BDB0@newcomputer>

Barry,
I would have the thing media blasted to remove all the rust.  There is a lot
more metal in those old vehicles than you find in new cars.  After all the
rust is blasted away, treat it with a good epoxy primer to seal it against
the elements because it will quickly attract rust from the coastal climate
down there.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Barry Schwartz
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 4:03 PM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Rusty Panel treatment

Well It happened, not on my Triumph, but my 40 ford TR parts hauler.  Some
inattentive woman swerved right in front of my truck trying to enter a
driveway and dragged her explorer over the front of my fender damaging it
pretty badly.  I may be that it can be pounded out, but I have a line on a
fender that looks to be in pretty good physical shape, but has a coating of
med surface rust -  I would like to use my original fender, since it was
rust free, but if I have to get this fender I thought I would see what
worked for others
What kind of treatment would work best for coating the part after sanding
down as much of the rust as I can?  Eastwoods rust encapsulator, I have
some of that?  Remember, this isn't a frame or hidden part, but an exterior
body panel - so it would be primed and painted -

Thanks -
Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San Diego)
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Mon Aug 25 17:17:32 2008
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 11:17:32 +1200
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <E56E048334D44E1496F8E95B8BCC0B33@athlon>

I am keen to switch from the old type brake fluid to the Dot 5 silicon fluid.
I understand that I need to ensure that none of the old stuff remains prior to
filling up with the silicon fluid.
Dose anyone know what is involved in doing the cleaning.
Any help appreciated.

Jim and his 1962 TR4

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Mon Aug 25 17:25:48 2008
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:25:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Accident -  Could have been MUCH worse
Message-ID: <48B33F7C.1060601@greenheart.com>

This weekend, just blocks away from my studio, I saw a TR6 that had been 
in an accident.   The car was up on a very high curb, right wheels on 
the sidewalk, left wheels in the street.  The front left wheel was off 
the car and was laying on the side of the road, 5 or 6 car lengths 
back.  The driver was unharmed and making the usual phone calls.   With 
his permission, I looked over the car.   It became readily apparent to 
me that the left front spindle had come loose.   The nut that holds it 
from behind was gone.  The spindle could be found still attached to the 
wheel and hub assembly.

I hardly had time to do a full FCC investigation, but it looked to me 
like that nut had either come loose, and then was battered loose or it 
had been installed cross threaded, in the first place, and subsequently 
came loose...  as the threads of the spindle were a mess.

This TR owner was extremely lucky.  It didn't happen on the freeway.  It 
didn't happen when he had passengers.  It didn't happen with another 
vehicle, motorcyclist, or pedestrians nearby.  And the one section of 
road where he left the tarmac was the one stretch where there were no 
lamp posts or trees, etc.  (100' forward or back, would have been a 
different story.)    It looks like his frame was slightly tweaked, the 
front left wing and under body in that area damaged, the right two and 
front left wheels damaged. The bonnet was tweaked, but may settle out 
when the frame it checked, etc.  Throw together the damage to the 
suspension parts, brake callipers (which had been broken into pieces!), 
etc., and he's likely looking at $6K in repairs or more.   Sad, because 
the car was quite beautiful.  Relative to the car, the positive thing is 
that the frame is robust and the car can be brought back to a high 
standard in short time.

A few lessons here are... 

1.  Cross-threading is dangerous. 
2.  Try to inspect your vehicle when you have wheels off, etc.
3.  Listen carefully to your vehicle and when it speaks, listen.
4.  (I'm not a roll bar fan, but... think about one...)

And lesson for self...   "Justin, your cell phone has a camera... use it." 

--Justin

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Aug 25 18:07:01 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 18:07:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3a spare tire lid rubber seal
In-Reply-To: <fac10b170808250743mbc925ffw6e53564ef08080fb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <fac10b170808250743mbc925ffw6e53564ef08080fb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E4CCB7607434D28B05350B23F622D15@sniffer>

I just put mine on last week, with the lip to the inside as the lid did not
seem to want to seat properly with it turned outwards.  Yes, it still stands
away from the body a little but from previous posts I believe this will
'settle in' after a while.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Wallace
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 8:43 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3a spare tire lid rubber seal

I installed mine with the lip protruding "outwards" i.e. not toward the
opening for the spare tire.
This, by memory as I felt sure I had read to do so on this list. Now, I am
doubting myself - maybe that's the boot seal that has its lip facing
outward?

Anyway on securing the spare tire lid, it was a very, very, tight fit. Maybe
this is because the rubber needs to be compressed for a while, but the
centre of the lid bulges out quite a bit and it's disturbing. I put it on so
that the lip of the rubber is contained within the metal lip on the spare
tire cover. Should I have just let the edge of the rest on the rubber lip,
instead of trying to contain it? It seemed it would be an even tighter fit
this way.

Thanks,
Jim Wallace

PS The lip does go outward on the boot lid seal right?
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 25 18:13:45 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 17:13:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Accident -  Could have been MUCH worse
In-Reply-To: <48B33F7C.1060601@greenheart.com>
References: <48B33F7C.1060601@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <C20631251B7A44319299073AF6040570@jdnet.deere.com>

> And lesson for self...   "Justin, your cell phone has a camera... use it."

If anyone is interested, photos and discussion can be seen at
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/493403/1

>From the photos, I would guess the nut that holds the spindle to the
vertical link came loose first, as there appear to be some good threads left
that the nut should have grabbed.

The right side seems to have suffered some sort of failure as well, but
perhaps only as a result of the left side failure.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 25 18:17:21 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 17:17:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <E56E048334D44E1496F8E95B8BCC0B33@athlon>
References: <E56E048334D44E1496F8E95B8BCC0B33@athlon>
Message-ID: <67BF014480FD4E0E840BDE5C222D9DCF@jdnet.deere.com>

> I understand that I need to ensure that none of the old stuff remains
> prior to
> filling up with the silicon fluid.

I've done the conversion on several vehicles now by just bleeding DOT 5
through until I get clean purple fluid at each slave.  Seems to work fine
for me.

> Dose anyone know what is involved in doing the cleaning.

To really remove all traces of the old fluid, you'll need to disassemble all
the cylinders and replace all the seals.  Flush with solvent (ISTR methyl
alcohol is preferred), let dry, and reassemble.

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Aug 25 18:08:51 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 20:08:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] torque tightening
In-Reply-To: <BLU143-W28D8E39376E898E7763BCAA5670@phx.gbl>
References: <c0d.36c56b0e.35e47429@aol.com>
	<025201c906f5$498cd3d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<BLU143-W28D8E39376E898E7763BCAA5670@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <200808252008.52358.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 25 August 2008 05:07 pm, John Herrera wrote:
> > It kinda seems that using both a fresh nyloc nut WITH a lockwasher would
> > be>
>
> ideal.> Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3
> Paul, do you wear belt and suspenders at the same time?
> _______________________________________________
John, Paul,

Now I only wear a belt unless I am wearing my new suit which has those fancy 
suspenders.

But I have seen a number of "older" guys with both belts and suspenders on the 
same pair of pants!

Not alot but I have seen it.

When I use nylock nuts it with only a flat washer. And I never use the same 
nylock twice. I save the old nuts for odd jobs around the house such as 
attaching the bench grinder to the bench etc.

Bob

From jat1127 at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 25 18:25:17 2008
From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 20:25:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lock nuts and lock washers
Message-ID: <BLU139-W27FA260F8C5AD490AC763B5660@phx.gbl>

Listers,

 In recent strings there have been several comments about lock nuts and
lockwashers.

PLEASE..... think about it... LOCK WASHERS DO NOT WORK. In order for them to
have a spring effect the fastner must be loose.

PLEASE do not trust your life to them.John John TaylorGreenfield, Ma
Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want
to finish first.
_________________________________________________________________
Talk to your Yahoo! Friends via Windows Live Messenger.  Find out how.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/messenger?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_messenger_yaho
o_082008

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Aug 25 18:25:50 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 20:25:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] torque tightening
Message-ID: <c5c.330d3ced.35e4a78e@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/25/08 5:21:57 PM, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:


> But I have seen a number of "older" guys with both belts and suspenders on 
> the
> same pair of pants!
> 
> Not alot but I have seen it.
> 

I do that when I want to wear suspenders with a suit , but wearing a jacket   
the belt loops show and I don't want people telling me   forgot my belt!
Mike Moore < 


**************
It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. 
Find your travel deal here.
      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Aug 25 19:18:54 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 19:18:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] Lock nuts and lock washers
In-Reply-To: <BLU139-W27FA260F8C5AD490AC763B5660@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU139-W27FA260F8C5AD490AC763B5660@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48B359FE.90408@dfn.com>

john taylor wrote:
> Listers,
>
>  In recent strings there have been several comments about lock nuts and
> lockwashers.
>
> PLEASE..... think about it... LOCK WASHERS DO NOT WORK. In order for them to
> have a spring effect the fastner must be loose.
>
>   

Well, this sort of flies in the face of a couple of hundred years of 
engineering. The lockwasher doesn't work only when loose.  Pretty much, 
the purpose of the lockwasher is to keep the bolt and nut threads 
scrubbed together to increase the friction required for the nut to 
turn.  This is no different a principle than that behind prevailing 
torque fasteners.


Beyond the theory, I have plenty of real-world examples to indicate that 
they do work, and just fine, thank you.  One of my favorites was that of 
a former boss on a farm who decided, like Mr. Taylor, that lockwashers 
had no real use, so he left them off the rake tines of the hay baler. 
There were about forty of these on the baler, and they were simply 
pieces of rod with an eye formed on the end, which slipped over a blind 
bolt and were captured by a flat washer, lockwasher and nut.  The tines 
dragged along the ground and separated the windrowed hay into columns 
which then were fed into the baler.  Because of the vibration, without 
the lockwashers, every tine had either loosened and was flopping around 
or had fallen off in less than twenty minutes. Add lockwashers, and 
everything is fine through the end of the hay season. If you want to 
understand the utility of the humble lockwasher, just work on 
high-vibration equipment such as farm equipment for a while. 


The other bit about lockwashers comes from Volvo Heavy Equipment. They 
owned 51% of a company for which I worked, and one of their 
pronouncements was that, because they had decided that Loctite was a 
carcinogen, only lockwashers would be used in their plants in 
applications which had previously used Loctite.


It was a terrible idea, because some installations just weren't amenable 
to using lockwashers (confined spaces where juggling lockwashers 
inclined assemblers to leave them off, etc.), and more so because their 
thinking was based on those old, old rat studies on saccharin ingestion 
(saccharin is an essential ingredient of Loctite), even though one would 
have to eat about two pounds of the stuff or be completely immersed in 
it for a couple of weeks to receive a median lethal dose.  But, the 
point was that Volvo's engineers think lockwashers work as advertised. I 
doubt you're going to find many mechanical engineers who would say that 
they do not.  Some may have preferences for PT nuts, but, that doesn't 
negate the principle behind the lockwasher.


Cheers.


-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Aug 25 19:27:16 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:27:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lock nuts and lock washers--UFO's
In-Reply-To: <48B359FE.90408@dfn.com>
References: <BLU139-W27FA260F8C5AD490AC763B5660@phx.gbl>
	<48B359FE.90408@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <20080826012706.0A72F187663@autox.team.net>

Well, I bet the ship that crashed had left off their lock washers too! ;-)

A UFO crashed northwest of Roswell, New Mexico, in the summer of 1947

At 09:18 PM 8/25/2008, you wrote:
>Michael Porter
>Roswell, NM

From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Aug 25 19:35:57 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 19:35:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] Lock nuts and lock washers--UFO's
In-Reply-To: <200808251927377.SM05040@mtiwmhc11.worldnet.att.net>
References: <BLU139-W27FA260F8C5AD490AC763B5660@phx.gbl>
	<48B359FE.90408@dfn.com>
	<200808251927377.SM05040@mtiwmhc11.worldnet.att.net>
Message-ID: <48B35DFD.5020709@dfn.com>

Doug Mathews wrote:
> Well, I bet the ship that crashed had left off their lock washers too! ;-)
>
> /A UFO crashed northwest of Roswell, New Mexico, in the summer of 1947
>
> /At 09:18 PM 8/25/2008, you wrote:
>> Michael Porter
>> Roswell, NM

Umm, knowing the area as I do, I would much more likely suspect drunk 
driving.... :)


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 25 20:09:16 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 19:09:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Off topic humor, but true story
In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0808251755h50d1a96coc3b6a87196092942@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <200871.24754.qm@web82804.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well, it does have to do with parking lots . . .
   
  I have a client who is in the parking lot business.  He does curbs, cleaning, striping, patching, etc.
   
  personnel is always an issue, and he's always running ads.
   
  one day a lady called.  she wanted to interview for the parking lot stripper job.
   
  and he didn't even have her come in . . .

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 25 20:10:00 2008
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 22:10:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: TR6 problem
Message-ID: <001701c90720$d886f180$5d413b47@Scott>

A club member has had his TR6 stall out on a few occasions, two of which I
was driving behind him when it happened. The grade of the hill was fairly
steep and the one time he let off the throttle and "pumped" it a few times
to keep it running, which it did. On another occasion he lost power and then
restarted the engine while still running up the hill. The third time he
stalled and pulled over, stopped and then fired the engine back up and we
went on.  He says this happened a few weeks ago leaving my house, and these
are the only times it has happened. Any ideas would be appreciated.  TIA

 

Scott Suhring

Mechanicsburg, PA

'70 TR6

'59 TR3

 

  _____  

From: John Krause [mailto:jktr250 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 4:31 PM
To: Scott Suhring
Subject: TR6 problem

 

Scott,

 

Would you mind posting this to the list.

 

My recently restored 1970 TR6 engine is sputtering and sometimes cutting out
completely when going up long steep hills.  I am running new Moss Motors SU
PHS6 carburetors.    I have a new fuel pump and a pressure regulator set at
2 1/2 pounds.  I believe the problem is fuel related.  When the car stalls
out, it does start right up again without hesitation. The car runs strong
other than when going up hills.  Does anyone have an idea as to why this is
happening?

 

Thanks,

 

John

From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Aug 25 20:16:06 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 20:16:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] Lock nuts and lock washers
In-Reply-To: <BLU139-W28F0AFC57872CA155EE687B5660@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU139-W28F0AFC57872CA155EE687B5660@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48B36766.1050700@dfn.com>

john taylor wrote:
> Hey,
>  
>  I am certainly not saying do not use   any   locking device just that 
> lock washers do not work.
>  
>  Quote. The Standard Aircraft Handbook "lock washers may be used when 
> ever a selflocking nut is not available....they are NOT to be used as 
> fastenings to primary or secondary structures ...... 
>  
>  Carrol Smith...."the most popular locking device, the lock washer is 
> also the least effective.
> Neither the spring or wave washer do anything worth talking about 
> ....other than to provide a false
> sense of security".
>  
>  In my opinion if you really do not want  it  to fall off wire  it  on 
> or use an metal elastic nut or nylock nut(heat dependent) or locktite 
> by heat grade. 
>  

Ah, but, they do work.  They work just fine in normal application.  I'd 
want the best fasteners I can find in aircraft, or in a race car. But, 
in ordinary applications, they work just fine, and are cost-effective.  
Otherwise, they would be banned under FMVSS.  Your statement that they 
do not work neither matches engineering practice nor theory.  It is not 
true that they do not work, and by saying so, you introduce unnecessary 
worry among people who do not have the engineering skills to determine 
the truth of the statement. 


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 25 20:50:37 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 22:50:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] DPO Award:)
In-Reply-To: <082620080113.5779.48B358CC0007DE19000016932207021053970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <082620080113.5779.48B358CC0007DE19000016932207021053970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W56DFF0B4F2B29E6172885FBA660@phx.gbl>

Drug a TR6 rear hub out of a pile of parts over the weekend to pull apart for
a project and noticed some neat features. First the gator covering the half
shaft splines had been upgraded to one of those clear plastic pouches with a
zipper you bought for your kids when they were in about second grade to keep
the crayons and pencils in and then attached with coat hanger. Then I look at
the u-joints and see that the u-joint caps have been tack welded to the yolks
in place of cir-clips.  I guess they had not planned on replacing them any
time soon.  Jeez:(

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/

From gamerrell at qwest.net  Mon Aug 25 21:05:16 2008
From: gamerrell at qwest.net (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:05:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] Stags to Watkins Glenn 3-7 September?
Message-ID: <48B372EC.9090706@qwest.net>

Anyone driving their Stag to Watkins Glen?

I need one to put on display at a few places, maybe even do a parade Lap 
around the circuit at the track.

Glenn Merrell

From tom628 at verizon.net  Mon Aug 25 21:16:18 2008
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 23:16:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: TR6 problem
References: <001701c90720$d886f180$5d413b47@Scott>
Message-ID: <005201c9072a$1da12250$2f01a8c0@Toms>

Hi Scott:  I wonder if John checked the accuracy of his pressure regulator; 
i.e. is it really putting out 2.5 psi when it's set there? I wonder, because 
when going uphill the pressure head is reduced, esp. if the tank is low.
The other long shot to check for is a blocked fuel cap vent.
I think the the recovery upon "pumping" was incidental to the low rpm 
allowing fuel delivery to catch up.

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Suhring" <suhringtr36 at comcast.net>
To: "Triumph Mail List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 10:10 PM
Subject: [TR] FW: TR6 problem


>A club member has had his TR6 stall out on a few occasions, two of which I
> was driving behind him when it happened. The grade of the hill was fairly
> steep and the one time he let off the throttle and "pumped" it a few times
> to keep it running, which it did. On another occasion he lost power and 
> then
> restarted the engine while still running up the hill. The third time he
> stalled and pulled over, stopped and then fired the engine back up and we
> went on.  He says this happened a few weeks ago leaving my house, and 
> these
> are the only times it has happened. Any ideas would be appreciated.  TIA
>
>
>
> Scott Suhring
>
> Mechanicsburg, PA
>
> '70 TR6
>
> '59 TR3
>
>
>
>  _____
>
> From: John Krause [mailto:jktr250 at gmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 4:31 PM
> To: Scott Suhring
> Subject: TR6 problem
>
>
>
> Scott,
>
>
>
> Would you mind posting this to the list.
>
>
>
> My recently restored 1970 TR6 engine is sputtering and sometimes cutting 
> out
> completely when going up long steep hills.  I am running new Moss Motors 
> SU
> PHS6 carburetors.    I have a new fuel pump and a pressure regulator set 
> at
> 2 1/2 pounds.  I believe the problem is fuel related.  When the car stalls
> out, it does start right up again without hesitation. The car runs strong
> other than when going up hills.  Does anyone have an idea as to why this 
> is
> happening?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Aug 25 21:17:02 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 20:17:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] DPO Award:)
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W56DFF0B4F2B29E6172885FBA660@phx.gbl>
References: <082620080113.5779.48B358CC0007DE19000016932207021053970A9D010507@comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W56DFF0B4F2B29E6172885FBA660@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <9F490C8FB7AF44A3A4E727A4FCE47F58@newcomputer>

Sounds reminiscent of the rear axle flanges I found when I was restoring my
first Spit.

The DPO apparently either didn't know that there is a difference in early
and later axle flanges and had a large later flange welded to he output
shaft of the Diff.

Needless to say, I had to find both a new output shaft and an early flange
to put it right.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty
sukey
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 7:51 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] DPO Award:)

Drug a TR6 rear hub out of a pile of parts over the weekend to pull apart
for
a project and noticed some neat features. First the gator covering the half
shaft splines had been upgraded to one of those clear plastic pouches with a
zipper you bought for your kids when they were in about second grade to keep
the crayons and pencils in and then attached with coat hanger. Then I look
at
the u-joints and see that the u-joint caps have been tack welded to the
yolks
in place of cir-clips.  I guess they had not planned on replacing them any
time soon.  Jeez:(

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 25 22:09:46 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:09:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lock nuts and lock washers
In-Reply-To: <48B36766.1050700@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <20080826040947.FVCY757.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Ah, but, they do work.  They work just fine in normal 
> application.

Well, let's draw what I feel is an important distinction to this discussion.
Where lockwashers work well is in joints that do not have stresses near the
capability of the bolt/stud, but do need the spring/locking action that a
lockwasher can provide and are tight enough to compress the lockwasher.  

Thus, they are horrible in high stress joints (eg connecting rod bolts,
cylinder head nuts, flywheel bolts, etc.) but work well in places like oil
pans and timing covers; but again not so good in places like Triumph rocker
covers (with very light torque).

And they do work, when properly applied.  It's just that, like so many other
things, one size does not fit all.

Randall

From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Aug 25 22:35:43 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 22:35:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] Lock nuts and lock washers
In-Reply-To: <20080826040947.FVCY757.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <20080826040947.FVCY757.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <48B3881F.3050604@dfn.com>

Randall wrote:
>> Ah, but, they do work.  They work just fine in normal 
>> application.
>>     
>
> Well, let's draw what I feel is an important distinction to this discussion.
> Where lockwashers work well is in joints that do not have stresses near the
> capability of the bolt/stud, but do need the spring/locking action that a
> lockwasher can provide and are tight enough to compress the lockwasher.

This is a distinction that probably fits into general engineering 
practice, which is what I was trying to describe.  What Mr. Taylor is 
saying, repeatedly, is that lockwashers _do not work at all_, and that 
mistakes the ideal for actual practice.  He's suggesting an either/or 
situation, which simply does not exist.  There are gradations in 
engineering requirements, as in most other fields.


I've read Carroll's book on fasteners, too. I've also spent more than 
thirty-odd years doing mechanical and engineering work in practical 
application, and the suggestion Mr. Taylor makes is contrary to my 
education and experience. On the basis of that experience, I would 
almost suggest that ordinary shade-tree mechanics not deviate from 
manual requirements, unless they know what they are doing.  If, for 
example, a hobbyist doesn't know--i.e., have in the manual--an 
understanding of how advanced fasteners are to be installed, more grief 
may ensue than planned.  Deformed prevailing torque nuts, for example, 
work well only if they are installed properly.  If they are installed, 
for example, with air tools, the threads on both the bolt and the nut 
will be damaged.  I know whereof I speak--I've had to document this kind 
of damage in the heavy-duty automotive industry. 


I haven't said that lockwashers should be used in a place where the 
manual does not specify them, and there are good reasons for them not 
being used in some installations.  But, to suggest that they not be used 
at all where they have been otherwise specified _is_ unnecessarily 
fear-inducing in the ordinary hobbyist who is simply desiring to 
maintain and drive normally.  I will repeat:  if lockwashers were not 
safe to be used in the applications for which they are specified by 
qualified engineers, they would be banned by FMVSS. 


Cheers.




-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Aug 25 22:54:07 2008
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:54:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Rusty Panel treatment
Message-ID: <244138.59660.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I have a friend and we made a derusting tank off of info we found on the net. It took a plastic tank full of baking soda solution. The tank was lined with steel mesh (an old bird cage ISTR). The part in question hangs in the tank by a steel wire, not touching the steel mesh. Then we hooked up a battery charger with one lead to the steel wire supporting the part and the other on the steel mesh. The part would bubble slowly and after a few hours the part comes out shiney clean and bright. It doesn't eat the metal away at all, unless you hook the leads up backwards. We experimented on old rusty horse shoes first. You can probably still find the info with a Google search. 
     Here is a link: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm
     or
     http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm

     Good luck.

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue Aug 26 04:56:57 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 06:56:57 EDT
Subject: [TR] Lock nuts and lock washers
Message-ID: <d20.37669a53.35e53b79@aol.com>

Very well said Michael Porter.
Mike Moore


**************
It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find 
your travel deal here.
      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Tue Aug 26 05:42:22 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 07:42:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] torque tightening
References: <c5c.330d3ced.35e4a78e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004001c90770$ce454eb0$0300a8c0@Desktop>

Are you that OLD


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MMoore8425 at aol.com>
To: <yellowtr at adelphia.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] torque tightening


> In a message dated 8/25/08 5:21:57 PM, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:
>
>
>> But I have seen a number of "older" guys with both belts and suspenders 
>> on
>> the
>> same pair of pants!
>>
>> Not alot but I have seen it.
>>
>
> I do that when I want to wear suspenders with a suit , but wearing a 
> jacket
> the belt loops show and I don't want people telling me   forgot my belt!
> Mike Moore <
>
>
> **************
> It's only a deal if it's where you want to go.
> Find your travel deal here.
>
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Tue Aug 26 06:56:38 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 05:56:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <67BF014480FD4E0E840BDE5C222D9DCF@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <E56E048334D44E1496F8E95B8BCC0B33@athlon>
	<67BF014480FD4E0E840BDE5C222D9DCF@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <48B3FD86.9090509@razzolink.com>

Don't forget to replace all rubber bits that come into contact with the 
brake fluid, including the rubber hoses.  If the cylinders are in good 
shape, a set of rebuild kits & hoses will do the job.

Break fluid affects rubber.  DOT5 affects it differently than the other 
fluids.  Switching between the two without changing the rubber usually 
causes leaks.

Basically, remove the bleed screws,  drain the old fluid run a qt. of 
alcohol through the  system, replace the rubber hoses, rebuild the 
cylinders using new rubber then fill.

When I rebuilt my TR3 I converted to DOT5.  I didn't tighten one of the 
tubes at the bottom or the reservoir quite tight enough and all the 
fluid leaked out over and down the freshly painted bulkhead overnight.  
Next day I was very happy that it was not DOT4.

Teriann

For sale: factory TR3 hard top, cylinder head, lug wrench & TR3 
overdrive gearbox without overdrive unit.

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 26 07:39:12 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 13:39:12 +0000
Subject: [TR] Nyloc Nut on Tie-Rod Ends
In-Reply-To: <BLU129-W15F08F679EE85DA822A2E4D4670@phx.gbl>
References: <c9d.2f271f91.35e30290@aol.com>
	<BLU129-W15F08F679EE85DA822A2E4D4670@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W281C893FBFBD0D90F4B84E5660@phx.gbl>

The smart money uses a nyloc nut once and only once.

We all own Triumphs.  There isn't any smart money around here.


Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
See what people are saying about Windows Live.  Check out featured posts.
http://www.windowslive.com/connect?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_connect2_082008

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 26 07:58:52 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 13:58:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rusty Panel treatment
In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20080826160254.1eb75b3a@pop.west.cox.net>
References: <3.0.4.16.20080826160254.1eb75b3a@pop.west.cox.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W8DD1D763832E67CA81F1AE5660@phx.gbl>

I would send the rusty fender out to be stripped before painting it.  Either
chemical stripping or media blasting would do fine.  Remember it must be
painted within 24 hours of stripping to prevent the rust from returning.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
See what people are saying about Windows Live.  Check out featured posts.
http://www.windowslive.com/connect?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_connect2_082008

From dncullig at us.ibm.com  Tue Aug 26 08:08:56 2008
From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 10:08:56 -0400
Subject: [TR]  LIME ROCK
Message-ID: <OFEF075F6F.90F6626B-ON852574B1.004D4E29-852574B1.004DB931@us.ibm.com>

Larry wrote:
>hello, anyone going to the LIME ROCK vintage races the weekend of aug.
>29-31(labor day weekend)?  larry schwartz

Larry -
   I'll be there most likely Friday and Monday. There is often a
"British Car Corral" somewhere in the infield - if so, my TR6 will
be there.

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 26 08:30:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 07:30:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lock nuts and lock washers
In-Reply-To: <48B3881F.3050604@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <20080826143054.GUBK28556.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> This is a distinction that probably fits into general 
> engineering practice, which is what I was trying to describe. 

Just to be clear, Michael, I was trying to agree with you.

>  What Mr. Taylor is saying, repeatedly, is that lockwashers 
> _do not work at all_,

Which is obviously untrue.

Randall

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Tue Aug 26 09:05:50 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 11:05:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rusty Panel treatment
Message-ID: <c15.21ee80ac.35e575ce@aol.com>

Barry
If the panels off the truck, take it and have it bead blasted. It will cost 
you about 40.00. money well spent.
There is a place in commerce that specializes in classic car's. He will even 
put a coat of primer on if you want.
2937 vail ave
commerce
ca 90040
323-721-5020
 
Frank Fisher
Temecula



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Aug 26 19:02:48 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 19:02:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <48B3FD86.9090509@razzolink.com>
References: <E56E048334D44E1496F8E95B8BCC0B33@athlon><67BF014480FD4E0E840BDE5C222D9DCF@jdnet.deere.com>
	<48B3FD86.9090509@razzolink.com>
Message-ID: <5411A8B7D66C4BE9B06E9499F47A8ED3@sniffer>

Hmmm...  Someone once told me that DOT 5 would strip the paint just like DOT
3-4.  Not true?

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
TeriAnn Wakeman
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 6:57 AM
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid

Don't forget to replace all rubber bits that come into contact with the
brake fluid, including the rubber hoses.  If the cylinders are in good
shape, a set of rebuild kits & hoses will do the job.

Break fluid affects rubber.  DOT5 affects it differently than the other
fluids.  Switching between the two without changing the rubber usually
causes leaks.

Basically, remove the bleed screws,  drain the old fluid run a qt. of
alcohol through the  system, replace the rubber hoses, rebuild the cylinders
using new rubber then fill.

When I rebuilt my TR3 I converted to DOT5.  I didn't tighten one of the
tubes at the bottom or the reservoir quite tight enough and all the fluid
leaked out over and down the freshly painted bulkhead overnight.  
Next day I was very happy that it was not DOT4.

Teriann

For sale: factory TR3 hard top, cylinder head, lug wrench & TR3 overdrive
gearbox without overdrive unit.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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7:09 PM

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Tue Aug 26 19:06:29 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 21:06:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <5411A8B7D66C4BE9B06E9499F47A8ED3@sniffer>
References: <E56E048334D44E1496F8E95B8BCC0B33@athlon><67BF014480FD4E0E840BDE5C222D9DCF@jdnet.deere.com>
	<48B3FD86.9090509@razzolink.com>
	<5411A8B7D66C4BE9B06E9499F47A8ED3@sniffer>
Message-ID: <8CAD5F845A85E3A-1FE8-12E9@MBLK-M10.sysops.aol.com>

 Not true. The purple stuff is a friend to paint.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech <wbeech at flash.net>
To: 'TeriAnn Wakeman' <twakeman at razzolink.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 9:02 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid










Hmmm...  Someone once told me that DOT 5 would strip the paint just like DOT
3-4.  Not true?

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From rivers2hills at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 26 19:25:20 2008
From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 18:25:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Strange behaviour
Message-ID: <368671.81626.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well, it's been a while since I last wrote.  Was in Ohio for a month,,,,,,,driving the Maxima no less.  Got home and there was tropical rain from Fay for a week so didn't immediately get to drive the TR6.  Pulled the covers off it about an hour ago to drive the 5 mile round trip to Office depot.  
I normally park in a tight space in the driveway and when I fired the car up (much easier than I expected) and worked my way forward and back to squeeze out I heard new and disturbing sounds,,,coming from the steering of all places.  It also started to bind.
Drove off and did what I went for and backed out of the parking space at Office Depot and the binding got worse.  I pounded the wheel and steering column with my hand using the bigger hammer theory but to no avail.  Drove home cautiously, noting that each small turn on the steering wheel required an effort to get it back to straight.
Also noted that the tachometer was setting approximately 1/8" to the right of normal and on the left side of it was a small crescent moon glow.
Now, the question is did the tach and speedometer rust off and fall against the steering mechanism or WHAT?  Could have been a snake or possum tangled in the moving parts up front but this seemed to feel more like something hindering the gear.  I have been wanting to get the quick ratio steering rack but can't afford it right now after the month in SE Ohio taking care of my 88 year old aunt.
Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions?   
I'll look closer at it tomorrow in the daylight.

John Summers
'74
TR6

From trglory at comcast.net  Tue Aug 26 19:32:52 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 21:32:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Strange behaviour
In-Reply-To: <368671.81626.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C454470242D7465394C75B978BA494A9@newbox>

John;

Go take a look at your steering column. You may have a tach cable or a
bonnet release cable wrapped around it.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
John Summers
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:25 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Strange behaviour

Well, it's been a while since I last wrote.  Was in Ohio for a
month,,,,,,,driving the Maxima no less.  Got home and there was tropical
rain from Fay for a week so didn't immediately get to drive the TR6.  Pulled
the covers off it about an hour ago to drive the 5 mile round trip to Office
depot.
I normally park in a tight space in the driveway and when I fired the car up
(much easier than I expected) and worked my way forward and back to squeeze
out I heard new and disturbing sounds,,,coming from the steering of all
places.  It also started to bind.
Drove off and did what I went for and backed out of the parking space at
Office Depot and the binding got worse.  I pounded the wheel and steering
column with my hand using the bigger hammer theory but to no avail.  Drove
home cautiously, noting that each small turn on the steering wheel required
an effort to get it back to straight.
Also noted that the tachometer was setting approximately 1/8" to the right
of normal and on the left side of it was a small crescent moon glow.
Now, the question is did the tach and speedometer rust off and fall against
the steering mechanism or WHAT?  Could have been a snake or possum tangled
in the moving parts up front but this seemed to feel more like something
hindering the gear.  I have been wanting to get the quick ratio steering
rack but can't afford it right now after the month in SE Ohio taking care of
my 88 year old aunt.
Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions?
I'll look closer at it tomorrow in the daylight.

John Summers
'74
TR6
_______________________________________________

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 26 20:00:35 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:00:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Viagra for wedges
Message-ID: <BAY123-W18906FA16AEF32A56AA7BABA610@phx.gbl>

Looking at a TR8 that the drivers side headlight doesn't always want to go up.
What alls involved with making it go up when needed?

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Get thousands of games on your PC, your mobile phone, and the web with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588800/direct/01/

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Tue Aug 26 20:21:32 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:21:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Question
Message-ID: <5A83E4F505F84088AB89F8115221B983@D1TG6Y71>

A friend has found a couple of Honda S2000 seats and wants to know if I am
interested (while I continue to wait for a good set of Miata seats up here in
the now getting colder parts of Michigan).  Does anyone know if the S2000
seats will fit?  The photos I have found online seem to show that the seats
are quite wide at the 24"-28" height ... the Miata seats seem to taper more
towards the top ...

Advice welcome!

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************

From cm.sherman at verizon.net  Tue Aug 26 20:46:29 2008
From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 21:46:29 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 stignition problem
Message-ID: <24622025.860421219805189636.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

Hello everyone,
Frustrated as can be here... experiencing an intermittent 
ignition/running engine problem: Occasionally the car starts, but after 
a few minutes running it stalls and dies. Can't start it again for 
another 20 minutes or so. I thought it was vapor lock, but fuel flows 
freely. And so I began a series of diagnositics to  no avail.

Check the carbs - fuel in the bowls, jets working - ok
Check the fuel pump - flowing, and pumps when cranking - ok.
Pull plugs - check gap, inspected mix (rich/lean), and cleaned -ok.
Wires - inspected spark and replaced with new wires - ok.
Battery - replaced with brand new, negative ground - ok.

Distributor - Pertronix installed (may be problem*** - tech support no 
help
- ordered points to convert back. Unit is 16U-12v, D-57 2, D-25)

Coil - ok (using Lucas Sport; swapped with another - no difference).
There is a unit between the ignition switch and coil - believe it is a 
relay for the ignition switch assembly.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Corey

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue Aug 26 21:01:45 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:01:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <5411A8B7D66C4BE9B06E9499F47A8ED3@sniffer>
References: <E56E048334D44E1496F8E95B8BCC0B33@athlon>
	<67BF014480FD4E0E840BDE5C222D9DCF@jdnet.deere.com>
	<48B3FD86.9090509@razzolink.com>
	<5411A8B7D66C4BE9B06E9499F47A8ED3@sniffer>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808262001g57acbde8gd78de00bd624947f@mail.gmail.com>

Possibly they were thinking of/referring to DOT 5.1 which is a whole
'nuther thing.

Geo

On 8/26/08, wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> Hmmm...  Someone once told me that DOT 5 would strip the paint just like DOT
> 3-4.  Not true?

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Tue Aug 26 21:31:30 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:31:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Viagra for wedges
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W18906FA16AEF32A56AA7BABA610@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W18906FA16AEF32A56AA7BABA610@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48B4CA92.7090502@comcast.net>

It's been years since I owned my TR7, but as I remember, the wiring
comes out of the headlight motor assembly into a connector which plugs
into the wiring loom. The contacts in the connector were brass without
any plating. They had a tendency to corrode and become intermittent. I
remember polishing them up and coating them with dielectric grease to
stop the corrosion.

There is also a park switch in side of the motor housing that causes
trouble. When it got intermittent, the headlight would bob up and down
until the switch finally made contact. Sort of annoying. Especially when
you got to the curb, turned the headlights and key off and it continued
to bob up and down with everything else off.

I never did have any problems with the motors.

Mike

marty sukey wrote:
> Looking at a TR8 that the drivers side headlight doesn't always want to go up.
> What alls involved with making it go up when needed?
>
> Marty

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Aug 26 21:48:17 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 23:48:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] more torqueeness, security, etc.
Message-ID: <004101c907f7$be94a920$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Could someone explain to me if there is a big difference in the metallurgy
between those fasteners that are 'tightened against' each other at 65 ft lbs
of torque vs. nearby fasteners receiving merely only 26 ft lbs?  I still think
it's questionable concerning the loosening of a bolt that might be overly
torqued beyond it's 26 ft. lb. limit.

Does that mean 'tightening nuts against each other' provides a measure of
security?  Better than nylock nuts?  Does wiring a nut on mean 'tightening it,
then drilling a hole thru nut and bolt, then sticking wire thru it?

Thanks, Paul

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 900 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
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From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue Aug 26 21:53:58 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 23:53:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] more torqueeness, security, etc.
Message-ID: <c94.39974008.35e629d6@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/26/2008 8:49:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes:

Could  someone explain to me if there is a big difference in the  metallurgy
between those fasteners that are 'tightened against' each other  at 65 ft lbs
of torque vs. nearby fasteners receiving merely only 26 ft  lbs?  I still 
think
it's questionable concerning the loosening of a  bolt that might be overly
torqued beyond it's 26 ft. lb. limit.

Does  that mean 'tightening nuts against each other' provides a measure  of
security?  Better than nylock nuts?  Does wiring a nut on mean  'tightening 
it,
then drilling a hole thru nut and bolt, then sticking wire  thru it?

Thanks, Paul




Paul,
I really have no idea what your situation is. However,  I always try  to 
assemble my cars back using the same hardware type as used by the factory,  and 
torqued per the shop manual. To attempt to re-engineer any joints on a  
production non-racing vehicle I think is a mistake and not something I would  do.
Best, Mike Moore 



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Aug 26 22:21:56 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:21:56 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 stignition problem
References: <24622025.860421219805189636.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>
Message-ID: <006f01c907fc$71b17ca0$9d63b043@rolofson>

Corey,

Sounds like a slight but significant flooding problem.  If its cold and starts
OK (is that with or without choking) without choking then its getting too much
fuel.   Which is apparently too much once it gets a bit warmed up...so it
stalls...until it cools off enough to need the extra fuel for another cold
start.  Its probably either junk in your float chamber holding the fuel needle
valve open or you have too much fuel pressure into the carbs.  If you have an
adjustable clamp of some sort (I used a small ratcheting clamp) to use
temporarily you can check pretty quickly to see if its a fuel pressure issue.
Put the clamp on a rubber fuel line between the fuel pump and the carbs and
slow the fuel flow...but not close it completely off..or of course it won't
run at all.  If that's it then a pressure regulator may be the answer, but
double check by putting a T connecter in the fuel line and checking it with a
fuel/vacuum pressure gage.  If its not that then I'd clean the float chambers
out and blow some air up around the needle valve while working it up and down
to clear it.  Pour the gas from the float chambers into a white bowl to see if
you have something other than fuel in them.

Bud Rolofson


71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Corey Sherman
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 8:46 PM
  Subject: [TR] TR3 stignition problem


  Hello everyone,
  Frustrated as can be here... experiencing an intermittent
  ignition/running engine problem: Occasionally the car starts, but after
  a few minutes running it stalls and dies. Can't start it again for
  another 20 minutes or so. I thought it was vapor lock, but fuel flows
  freely. And so I began a series of diagnositics to  no avail.

  Check the carbs - fuel in the bowls, jets working - ok
  Check the fuel pump - flowing, and pumps when cranking - ok.
  Pull plugs - check gap, inspected mix (rich/lean), and cleaned -ok.
  Wires - inspected spark and replaced with new wires - ok.
  Battery - replaced with brand new, negative ground - ok.

  Distributor - Pertronix installed (may be problem*** - tech support no
  help
  - ordered points to convert back. Unit is 16U-12v, D-57 2, D-25)

  Coil - ok (using Lucas Sport; swapped with another - no difference).
  There is a unit between the ignition switch and coil - believe it is a
  relay for the ignition switch assembly.

  Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  Thanks
  Corey
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 26 22:39:36 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 21:39:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 stignition problem
In-Reply-To: <24622025.860421219805189636.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>
Message-ID: <20080827043936.BHKO2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Distributor - Pertronix installed (may be problem*** 

So, if you pull a plug out, stick the wire back on, lay it on the rocker
cover and crank the engine, do you see a healthy spark ?

Randall

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Aug 27 06:47:10 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 08:47:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 stignition problem
Message-ID: <ca5.3453cae9.35e6a6ce@aol.com>

Corey,
 
I was just involved in a similar dilemma with a friend's TR3A.  After  
checking all that you have checked, his problem turned out to be a bad  coil.  
Interestingly, he bought the coil (Lucas Sport) new many years  ago to keep as a 
spare and had recently used it to replace an older Lucas  coil.  So we wondered 
if it could be one of a batch of "bad"  coils.  But I think that today's coils 
(and other parts) are victims  of more than random quality control issues so, 
just pulling it out of the  nice new shiny box doesn't make the part reliable.
 
Oh.....I've never seen a factory installed relay between the coil and  
ignition switch and don't know why (electrically speaking) you would need one so  
you may also want to take another look at that setup.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/26/2008 10:47:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cm.sherman at verizon.net writes:

There is  a unit between the ignition switch and coil - believe it is a 
relay for  the ignition switch assembly.





**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Wed Aug 27 06:48:23 2008
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 05:48:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch tool
Message-ID: <000601c90843$3199bdc0$94cd3940$@rr.com>

Is there a special tool to tighten the outer ring that fastens the ignition
switch? I've never been able to mine tight enough and the switch turns as I
turn the key.

 

Johnnie

'67 TR4A

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 07:17:05 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 13:17:05 +0000
Subject: [TR] more torqueeness, security, etc.
Message-ID: <082720081317.10707.48B553D10004E3A1000029D322165258569D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

>Does wiring a nut on mean 'tightening it,
> then drilling a hole thru nut and bolt, then sticking wire thru it?

No.  The hole is already drilled through the nut.  The hole does not go through the threads.  There is no hole in the bolt.  After the nut is installed, the safety wire is put through the hole and looped tightly to an adjacent object, perhaps another nut.

I used to wire the wheel nuts on my MG Midget because the light torque specified for those little 3/8" studs was not enough for the flat washers of the wheels I was using.  After having stock steel wheels (torqued to specs!) loosen up, I was not going to take a chance with the flat-washer setup on those alloy wheels.

Of course the same can  be done with bolts.  The hole is through the bolt head.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Aug 27 07:20:07 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:20:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] Viagra for wedges
Message-ID: <c9b.21ad2aa0.35e6ae87@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/26/2008 9:00:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes: 
> Looking at a TR8 that the drivers side headlight doesn't always want to go 
> up.
> What alls involved with making it go up when needed?
> 
Typically, when only one headlamp pod misbehaves it is a relay.  These relays 
are mounted on the fuse panel behind the glovebox.  Give the bottom of the 
glove box a good wrap and see if it starts to work properly.

Dave   

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Aug 27 07:40:35 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:40:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Strange behaviour
In-Reply-To: <C454470242D7465394C75B978BA494A9@newbox>
Message-ID: <8CAD6619E725C9D-270-12A3@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Laurito <trglory at comcast.net>

John;

Go take a look at your steering column. You may have a tach cable or a
bonnet release cable wrapped around it.

Joe

==AM==
Been there, done that, Joe! Happened to me many years ago on my GT6+. 
Most embarrassing once I realized how it had happened (I'd left the 
cable dangling while the tachometer had been sent off to Nisonger for 
repair)!

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Aug 27 07:47:54 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:47:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch tool
In-Reply-To: <000601c90843$3199bdc0$94cd3940$@rr.com>
References: <000601c90843$3199bdc0$94cd3940$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CAD662A3D63477-270-1329@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: John & Pat Donnelly <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>

Is there a special tool to tighten the outer ring that fastens the 
ignition
switch? I've never been able to mine tight enough and the switch turns 
as I
turn the key.

==AM==
Yes, there is. Someone was making these a few years back, but I don't 
know if they're still around. Maybe someone else on the list will know.

You can often improvise with little more than a pair of small, 
flat-blade screwdrivers and some degree of dexterity...at risk of 
gouging surrounding areas WHEN one of the screwdrivers slips. :-(

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Aug 27 08:00:15 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 7:00:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch tool
In-Reply-To: <8CAD662A3D63477-270-1329@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080827100015.MIQFQ.506975.root@fepweb14>

---- Andrew Mace <zoboherald at aol.com> wrote: 

> Is there a special tool to tighten the outer ring that fastens the 
> ignition
> switch?
> 
> ==AM==
> Yes, there is. Someone was making these a few years back, but I don't 
> know if they're still around. Maybe someone else on the list will know.

Maybe a tool like this?  
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36554>

Jeff Scarbrough

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 27 10:45:03 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:45:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen   The Legends Speak   The FOT
Message-ID: <c1a.47eb5bcb.35e6de8f@cs.com>

Triumphistis and FOT,

The FoT is proudly represented by four of the best In our Triumph World.

The Legends Speak will be held at Layfayette Park on Friday at 3:00 PM in the 
Village of The Glen on 5 September 08. Those Legends are:

Kas Kastner      Triumph's North America Manager of Competition.
Ed Diehl            Triumph Factory Driver  12 Hours of Sebring  1963   
Roberts Johns    Triumph Factory Driver  12 Hours of Sebring  1957
John Macartney  Triumph Factory Manager  (Marketing & Sales)

All those that can should appear at Layfayette Park to ask interesting 
questions.

And the FoT invites you to visit us in the Triumph Paddock through the 
weekend.

Classic Motorsports is our sponsor for the Kastner Cup and will have a tent 
with an English Pub Theme.

WPTA/VTR  will have their usual FoT Hospitality Tent in place and there will 
be several things going on there.  Likely a few surprises.

Joe Alexander
Friends of Triumph   </HTML>

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 11:41:22 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:41:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen   The Legends Speak   The FOT
In-Reply-To: <c1a.47eb5bcb.35e6de8f@cs.com>
References: <c1a.47eb5bcb.35e6de8f@cs.com>
Message-ID: <p06240800c4db412761a9@[76.125.39.211]>

I cannot find words to express how jealous we West Coasters are of 
this event, probably very few of us can attend (although I will bet 
Herman will be there).  Hopefully Triumph Travelers will  invite the 
same group (all expensed paid) to speak at Triumphest in Lake Tahoe 
... :-/ We have been seriously thinking of joining Herman and Helena 
on their "trek" next year, this year we will have to be satisfied 
with going to the Goodwood Revival, and Triumphest.
Wish you all  the best.

PS: I do not speak for TT ... darn it ...

>Triumphistis and FOT,
>
>The FoT is proudly represented by four of the best In our Triumph World.
>
>The Legends Speak will be held at Layfayette Park on Friday at 3:00 PM in the
>Village of The Glen on 5 September 08. Those Legends are:
>
>Kas Kastner      Triumph's North America Manager of Competition.
>Ed Diehl            Triumph Factory Driver  12 Hours of Sebring  1963  
>Roberts Johns    Triumph Factory Driver  12 Hours of Sebring  1957
>John Macartney  Triumph Factory Manager  (Marketing & Sales)
>


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 27 11:41:56 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:41:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch tool
In-Reply-To: <20080827100015.MIQFQ.506975.root@fepweb14>
References: <8CAD662A3D63477-270-1329@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
	<20080827100015.MIQFQ.506975.root@fepweb14>
Message-ID: <D5DEE41DC8A74DA9A875D250B7A2B04A@jdnet.deere.com>

> Maybe a tool like this?
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36554>

Certainly not that one.  It's pins are round, and much too large.

In fact, I would say that any 'adjustable' tool is going to work poorly.  It
takes thin, rectangular blades to engage the ring, and they need to be at
both the correct distance and angle to fit securely.  If it slips, it will
mar the relatively soft (brass) ring.

I made my own tool out of a short length of small galvanized water pipe.
Drilled the opening larger so it would fit over the threaded portion of the
switch, then used a Dremel Moto tool to mostly cut the two rectangular teeth
into the edge, to engage the ring.  Final cutting was done with a
machinist's file, to ensure the sides of the teeth were inline, and the tips
square.

If I do it again, I'll use harder metal for the tool (like a cheap socket),
and add an outer sleeve to slide over the outside of the ring, to help
locate the tool in the slots.

However, you might be able to "make do" with the tips of a pair of needle
nose pliers, suitably ground/filed.  That's what I used for many, many
years.

Randall

From darrellw at ipns.com  Wed Aug 27 11:47:55 2008
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:47:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch tool
In-Reply-To: <D5DEE41DC8A74DA9A875D250B7A2B04A@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <8CAD662A3D63477-270-1329@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
	<20080827100015.MIQFQ.506975.root@fepweb14>
	<D5DEE41DC8A74DA9A875D250B7A2B04A@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <19FB2282-5520-400D-A848-8B949A90EBC2@ipns.com>

I'm pretty sure I got mine from here:

http://www.britishtool.com/

But the site appears to be down.

On Aug 27, 2008, at 10:41 AM, Randall wrote:

> However, you might be able to "make do" with the tips of a pair of  
> needle
> nose pliers, suitably ground/filed.  That's what I used for many, many
> years.

Perhaps a pair of angled snap ring pliers?

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 27 12:17:22 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:17:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen   The Legends Speak  &  The FOT
Message-ID: <bf3.3c79e818.35e6f432@cs.com>

Bill Dentinger!

Thanks for supplementing my announcement.  We have worked with the Village 
Festival Committee on some of these features, as they have Honored the Triumph 
Marque for the weekend.

They have responded to us very nicely. And I wish to thank them for that. 
Copied Here.

Stand by for more announcements....there are several more.

Joe A




> Joe...
> 
> Good idea, and as you know, because late Friday afternoon is when the race 
> cars make a trip from the track to downtown Watkins Glen for display and to 
> reenact the old street course race, getting there for the 3 PM program will be 
> difficult for most racers.  Hence crew and others will find that easier to 
> do, and should plan to do so.  
> 
> For racers, I strongly recommend any who have never been to the GLEN before, 
> or who have never made that Friday late afternoon trip downtown before 
> SHOULD PLAN to do so.  It is a hoot, and only a limited number of cars will get 
> credentials to do that.  If interested you should register for it on Wednesday 
> night or early Thursday.
> 
> Bill Dentinger
> 
> 
> 
> 

   </HTML>

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 27 12:32:14 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:32:14 EDT
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Watkins Glen   The Legends Speak   The FOT
Message-ID: <c3c.3c91d03f.35e6f7ae@cs.com>

Bill,

I could be wrong and may stand corrected, but I thought I heard somewhere 
that the Triumph Marque would lead off the Old Course with one lap and then the 
rest will follow for a second. That would be VERY Special.  Dont hold me to 
that. I might have been dreaming.

Joe A


> It was 150 cars last year,  and everyone that wanted to go, got to go. This 
> year as one of the featured elements we might get some special treatment. I 
> doubt they'll have us leading off the thing, but they might at least stick us 
> all together. 
> 
> It was really fun, I wouldn't miss it. And Diane will need a ride for anyone 
> that has an open seat (they wouldn't let her sit on Peyote's fuel cell, I 
> can't imagine why). She is in NYC this week, visiting a friend, but she packed 
> her leather helmet and goggles. Pictures, here, but a warning too, there are 
> pictures of an injured LBC (more injured than I thought at the time. Tony 
> Garmey is STILL working on Peyote to get it ready for Watkins Glen. I'm glad I 
> took it to Tony, it wouldn't have been ready, and for many, MANY reasons I 
> don't want to miss this race). If you have a weak stomach you probably want to 
> have some Mylanta handy. Also I made a disparaging remark about the SVRA's 
> handling of the accident that I apologized for later. I left the remark in place 
> because the apology wouldn't make sense without it. <A HREF="http://www.allaluminumtour.com/?p=263">
> http://www.allaluminumtour.com/?p=263</A>
> 
> 
> Bill
> 
> 
> 
> 

   </HTML>

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Wed Aug 27 13:30:42 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:30:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Psyched for The Glen
Message-ID: <168957.47606.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

After a few years off, my wife Kerri and I are headed back to the Zippo
Vintage Festival at Watkins Glen next week.  We plan to arrive on Wednesday
and will be camping with other LBC fans at Clute Campground down by the lake. 
I'm glad to see this information below, because after finding out that
Friday's Tour de Marque actually gets done around 2:00 p.m. the better half
asked "what are we going to do the rest of the afternoon?"  This is perfect. 
See you all there.

Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CF18928


Triumphistis and
FOT,
The FoT is proudly represented by four of the best In our Triumph World.
The Legends Speak will be held at Layfayette Park on Friday at 3:00 PM in the
Village of The Glen on 5 September 08. Those Legends are:

Kas Kastner     
Triumph's North America Manager of Competition.
Ed Diehl            Triumph
Factory Driver  12 Hours of Sebring  1963  
Roberts Johns    Triumph Factory
Driver  12 Hours of Sebring  1957
John Macartney  Triumph Factory Manager 
(Marketing & Sales)

All those that can should appear at Layfayette Park to
ask interesting 
questions.

And the FoT invites you to visit us in the
Triumph Paddock through the 
weekend.

Classic Motorsports is our sponsor for
the Kastner Cup and will have a tent 
with an English Pub Theme.

WPTA/VTR 
will have their usual FoT Hospitality Tent in place and there will 
be several
things going on there.  Likely a few surprises.

Joe Alexander
Friends of
Triumph 

From red_tr250 at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 27 13:34:19 2008
From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:34:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] A Little help for the 6-PACK TRials
Message-ID: <BAY131-W5687FBC8F39373267452ECD2610@phx.gbl>

I'm forwarding this to the TRiumph list on behalf of Bruce Miles

Cheers,

Todd


Hi everyone - My name is Bruce Miles, I am the Newsletter Editor for
 the
Buckeye Triumphs club in Central Ohio



I will be traveling to Townsend and will be helping to play a game
 during
TRials based on the TV show Family Feud.



The difference being that we have Triumph questions



If you could take a couple minutes to fill out a questionnaire, save it
 on
your own computer, then forward it to me - I would be most grateful -
 and it
should help make TRials more fun too.



I have the questionnaires in 2 files, an excel file and a RTF (word
processing) format. Please do not change the first column (I need it to
 help
tabulate the results)



Send your answers to bmiles at intinfo.com



Here are links to the files:



http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/newsletter/TRFeud.rtf

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/newsletter/TRFeud.xls



Thanks for your input!



Bruce Miles
Newsletter Editor - Buckeye Triumphs
  www.buckeyetriumphs.org

bmiles at intinfo.com


_________________________________________________________________
See what people are saying about Windows Live.  Check out featured posts.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug 27 13:43:47 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:43:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] cleaning electrical bullet connectors
Message-ID: <48B57633.29420.E36C803@localhost>

Yeah, I know, this has been discussed before.

I don't have much time at the moment to replace all the electrical 
connectors on the GT6, let alone the whole wiring harness.  But I've 
been having some of the connectors get fritzy.  Is there a preferred 
way of minimizing future unintentional disconnect events?

Tanks,


Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Wed Aug 27 13:59:33 2008
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 07:59:33 +1200
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <151E7D2DBB7546B2BDA6708793760848@athlon>

Thankyou for the replies

I will have to add a brake booster first, which will give me the opportunity
to go to Dot 5

Jim and the TR4

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 27 14:41:20 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 13:41:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] cleaning electrical bullet connectors
In-Reply-To: <48B57633.29420.E36C803@localhost>
References: <48B57633.29420.E36C803@localhost>
Message-ID: <842D7A9404BB4D04A4CAC1E4791AE84D@jdnet.deere.com>

> I don't have much time at the moment to replace all the electrical
> connectors on the GT6, let alone the whole wiring harness.  But I've
> been having some of the connectors get fritzy.  Is there a preferred
> way of minimizing future unintentional disconnect events?

In general, I polish away any corrosion I can reach with a Scotch-Brite pad
or similar.  Then bend as necessary to get a good, firm mechanical
connection; and apply a light coat of some suitable material to attempt to
keep future oxidation away.  Silicone grease seems to work well when the
connectors are tight enough to displace the grease at the point of contact.
Ordinary Vaseline also works, but can degrade some insulation, so I
generally only use it on light bulbs and such.  There are also various
specialty products (like Caig DeOxIt) that are no doubt even better, but
I've not tried them.

But the mechanical contact is the main thing, IMO.

Not sure if the GT6 uses bullet connectors; but sometimes the bullet sleeves
are simply broken inside and must be replaced.  It can be difficult to tell,
since the outer vinyl sleeve will shrink and grab the bullet at the edge of
the sleeve.  So, I make sure to push the bullet well inside the sleeve, and
then check (by tugging gently on the wire) that it's held firmly by the
metal contact inside the sleeve.  If there is any play at all, the sleeve
should be replaced, IMO.

Arguably, sleeves are cheap enough (under $1 @ British Wiring) to just
replace whenever there is any doubt ... which reminds me I should order some
<G>

Randall

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Wed Aug 27 15:01:49 2008
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 22:01:49 +0100
Subject: [TR] Under or over?
Message-ID: <D2EDC859-8FE3-4FDB-9B6A-79620F8CF2E6@tcd.ie>

Hi all, on the side screen TR's two of the cockpit cappings, the elbow  
one and the one behind that linking to the rear centre one, does the  
trim panel above the wheel arch go under or over these cappings. In  
original photos I have it seems to be under the cappings, but in many  
of the restoration photos the trim panel is over the cappings. I did  
notice when the trim had different colour piping then they are over  
the cappings, was this then a change for later cars?.
Regards
John
1954 TR2 Long Door

From trglory at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 15:46:48 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 17:46:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Under or over?
In-Reply-To: <D2EDC859-8FE3-4FDB-9B6A-79620F8CF2E6@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <967E723A8B0443BCBC448176D79AC4C7@newbox>

John;

They are always over the capping and attach thru the capping to the body
with trim screws and cup washers.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
John Gillis
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 5:02 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Under or over?

Hi all, on the side screen TR's two of the cockpit cappings, the elbow  
one and the one behind that linking to the rear centre one, does the  
trim panel above the wheel arch go under or over these cappings. In  
original photos I have it seems to be under the cappings, but in many  
of the restoration photos the trim panel is over the cappings. I did  
notice when the trim had different colour piping then they are over  
the cappings, was this then a change for later cars?.
Regards
John
1954 TR2 Long Door

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug 27 15:53:02 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 17:53:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch tool
In-Reply-To: <000601c90843$3199bdc0$94cd3940$@rr.com>
References: <000601c90843$3199bdc0$94cd3940$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <200808271753.03320.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 27 August 2008 08:48 am, John & Pat Donnelly wrote:
> Is there a special tool to tighten the outer ring that fastens the ignition
> switch? I've never been able to mine tight enough and the switch turns as I
> turn the key.
>
>
>
> Johnnie
>
> '67 TR4A
Johnnie,

I got one of these and it worked great on my TR4.

Ebay item # 
200228640340

Bob

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Wed Aug 27 16:19:26 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 17:19:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] more torqueeness, security, etc.
References: <082720081317.10707.48B553D10004E3A1000029D322165258569D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <51590D673D1849C2A4FBC1C459543B7A@KARL>

There are lots of ways to safety-wire fasteners.  Bolts can have safety-wire 
through the head or the shank (near the end of the threads).  If you wire 
through the threads of the bolt, you should use a castellated nut, torqued 
properly and then turned as appropriate (ie don't torque so hard you break 
the fastener) to align a set of slots in the castellated nut with the hole.

Safetying is similar to cotter pinning, but you can safety things that can't 
be held by a cotter pin.  A cotter pin can hold a nut from turning.  Safety 
wire can do that, or keep a screw, plug, etc. etc. that is threaded into 
something, from turning.

Safety wire is threaded through the hole, then bent together so there are 
two lengths of wire running parallel,  The wire is then twisted (in the 
appropriate direction) to keep the loop on the head or shank of the screw, 
and fastened to the next screw or to a hard point.  Easier to understand if 
you've seen it.

When you safety something, remember to install and tension the wire in a 
direction that will tighten the fastener - not loosen it.  Easy to mess that 
one up.

Safetying is normally done with stainless steel wire, .032 being a common 
size for smaller fasteners, say 8-32 up to maybe 5/16".  Above that you 
might want to go .041, maybe larger, depending on the size of what you're 
safetying.  My perspective is sirplanes, and we use lots of .032.

Aircraft mechanics safety things all day long.  If you look for a copy of 
FAA Advisory Circular AC 43.13 you will see lots of examples of various ways 
to properly safety wire bolts, screws, plugs, etc.

Karl




> >Does wiring a nut on mean 'tightening it,
>> then drilling a hole thru nut and bolt, then sticking wire thru it?
>
> No.  The hole is already drilled through the nut.  The hole does not go 
> through the threads.  There is no hole in the bolt.  After the nut is 
> installed, the safety wire is put through the hole and looped tightly to 
> an adjacent object, perhaps another nut.
>
> I used to wire the wheel nuts on my MG Midget because the light torque 
> specified for those little 3/8" studs was not enough for the flat washers 
> of the wheels I was using.  After having stock steel wheels (torqued to 
> specs!) loosen up, I was not going to take a chance with the flat-washer 
> setup on those alloy wheels.
>
> Of course the same can  be done with bolts.  The hole is through the bolt 
> head.

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Aug 27 16:28:47 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 18:28:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch tool
In-Reply-To: <D5DEE41DC8A74DA9A875D250B7A2B04A@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <8CAD662A3D63477-270-1329@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
	<20080827100015.MIQFQ.506975.root@fepweb14>
	<D5DEE41DC8A74DA9A875D250B7A2B04A@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <20080827223513.XKTI10008.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 01:41 PM 8/27/2008, you wrote:
> > Maybe a tool like this?
> > <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36554>
>
>Certainly not that one.  It's pins are round, and much too large.

OK, I had a mental picture of the switch, but I've not seen one 
lately, nor have I held that tool in my hand.

>In fact, I would say that any 'adjustable' tool is going to work poorly.  It
>takes thin, rectangular blades to engage the ring, and they need to be at
>both the correct distance and angle to fit securely.

I've got some hobby tool catalogs here at the house...  Something 
like this might do it: 
<http://www.contenti.com/products/watch-tools/159-915.html>

Or just file down some pliers... <g>

Cheers,
Jeff

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 27 16:45:36 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 18:45:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Watkins Glen   The Legends Speak   The FOT
Message-ID: <c7b.3d251b22.35e73310@cs.com>

Jack,

OK, I must have been dreaming, but I thought I heard that somewhere. 

Just knowing that we have priority is special enough.  Thanks.

Joe A


> You will have to take that up with Bob Williams who I have copied here..
>  
> Jack Woehrle
> SVRA Technical Director
> jwoesvra at aol.com
> 803-463-5388
> FAX 803-794-8747
> 701 Center Street
> West Columbia, SC 29169  
> In a message dated 8/27/2008 2:33:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> N197TR4 at cs.com writes:
> 
> >> Bill, 
>> 
>> I could be wrong and may stand corrected, but I thought I heard somewhere 
>> that the Triumph Marque would lead off the Old Course with one lap and then 
>> the rest will follow for a second. That would be VERY Special.  Dont hold me 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

   </HTML>

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 17:22:09 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 23:22:09 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switch
Message-ID: <082720082322.120.48B5E1A10004FD7F0000007822155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

The TR3A OD switch has screws holding the casing together.  I have to wiggle the switch to make it engage.  Has anyone taken one of these apart and looked inside?  Are they "rebuildable," meaning can someone dink around with the guts to make a superior product than what comes from the Big 3?
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 17:43:52 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 23:43:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <082720082343.4598.48B5E6B800067370000011F622155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Hi, Jim.  

Why?  I've been driving on the Dot 5 since completing the 3A restoration a few years ago now.  No noticable difference in brake performance over the old paint-bubbler brand.

But then, ahhh, brakes are for fraidy-cat weenies anyway, right????

Terry Smith
New Hampshire

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis <diggle at clear.net.nz> 

> Thankyou for the replies 
> 
> I will have to add a brake booster first, which will give me the opportunity 
> to go to Dot 5 
> 
> Jim and the TR4 
> _______________________________________________ 
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org 
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 
> 
> You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Aug 27 18:23:06 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:23:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] more torqueeness, security, etc.
In-Reply-To: <51590D673D1849C2A4FBC1C459543B7A@KARL>
References: <082720081317.10707.48B553D10004E3A1000029D322165258569D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<51590D673D1849C2A4FBC1C459543B7A@KARL>
Message-ID: <20080828002300.CMQO29012.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 06:19 PM 8/27/2008, Karl Vacek wrote:
>There are lots of ways to safety-wire fasteners.

<snip>


>Aircraft mechanics safety things all day long.  If you look for a copy of
>FAA Advisory Circular AC 43.13 you will see lots of examples of various ways
>to properly safety wire bolts, screws, plugs, etc.

Here ya go...

<http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/99c827db9baac81b86256b4500596c4e/$FILE/Chapter%2007.pdf>

aka  http://tinyurl.com/safety-wire

I've got some surplus safety-wire pliers at work, never knew exactly 
how to use them.  Now I can have some fun!


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 19:03:15 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 18:03:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tribute to Uncle Jack
Message-ID: <p06240802c4dba8ebb39e@[76.125.39.211]>

Don't know if this means anything, but to me it seems like a good 
idea (Joe agrees) so ... at 8:30 PM  EST (11:30 PM PST) I am going to 
rev Casper to redline for 20 seconds ...  don't really give a damn 
what the neighbors think.

I invite you all to join me/us/ who ever ...


>X-Originating-IP: [76.96.30.15]
>From: N197TR4 at cs.com
>Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:53:58 EDT
>Subject: Re: [TR] Watkins Glen   The Legends Speak   The FOT
>To: anabil007 at comcast.net
>X-AOL-IP: 172.18.150.227
>
>Hi Joe,
>        This may be bit "out there" but perhaps we could organize 
>some sort of tribute to Uncle Jack ... I have been thinking of 
>establishing a date and time for all TR DRIVERS ... to run their 
>engines at redline for 10-20 seconds as a tribute to Uncle Jack ... 
>Am I nuts ... ?
>
>Bill Pugh,
>
>Nice thought. Very nice thought.
>
>We are going have a tribute at Watkins Glen at 8:30PM E.S.T.  6 
>September. That tribute will have something to do with Single Malt 
>Scotch (or other favorite adult beverage) and a Fine Cigar.
>
>If you could organize it, it would be a very unique North American 
>Toast to one of Triumphs Finest.
>
>Go for it. You have the right idea.
>
>Regards,
>
>Joe Alexander

-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 19:03:15 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 18:03:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tribute to Uncle Jack
Message-ID: <p06240802c4dba8ebb39e@[76.125.39.211]>

Don't know if this means anything, but to me it seems like a good 
idea (Joe agrees) so ... at 8:30 PM  EST (11:30 PM PST) I am going to 
rev Casper to redline for 20 seconds ...  don't really give a damn 
what the neighbors think.

I invite you all to join me/us/ who ever ...


>X-Originating-IP: [76.96.30.15]
>From: N197TR4 at cs.com
>Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:53:58 EDT
>Subject: Re: [TR] Watkins Glen   The Legends Speak   The FOT
>To: anabil007 at comcast.net
>X-AOL-IP: 172.18.150.227
>
>Hi Joe,
>        This may be bit "out there" but perhaps we could organize 
>some sort of tribute to Uncle Jack ... I have been thinking of 
>establishing a date and time for all TR DRIVERS ... to run their 
>engines at redline for 10-20 seconds as a tribute to Uncle Jack ... 
>Am I nuts ... ?
>
>Bill Pugh,
>
>Nice thought. Very nice thought.
>
>We are going have a tribute at Watkins Glen at 8:30PM E.S.T.  6 
>September. That tribute will have something to do with Single Malt 
>Scotch (or other favorite adult beverage) and a Fine Cigar.
>
>If you could organize it, it would be a very unique North American 
>Toast to one of Triumphs Finest.
>
>Go for it. You have the right idea.
>
>Regards,
>
>Joe Alexander

-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From rivers2hills at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 27 19:17:30 2008
From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 18:17:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Wrapped around the ,,,,
Message-ID: <444476.30442.qm@web36207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I wrote last night about the steering binding on my TR6.  Got some suggestions of what might have caused it.  They were right.  First, some wires not even hooked up to anything somehow got wrapped around the steering column.  Darned if I know how!  Then they got the tach. cable involved.  It's ruined.  It's also wound tightly around the column where it goes through the firewall.  That's going to require some daylight and a good pair of pliers because it is wound very tightly --- it's ugly.  
All I can say is no wonder the tach face was displaced.  If it were Saddam's head it would have come off and fell at my feet..  I did get the spaghetti unwound except for the tach cable.  I wonder, could it have affected the speedometer cable also?
We'll see.
Anyway, thanks for the clues.

John Summers

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 27 19:38:31 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:38:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] Joe & Dottie Richards & TR2 TS1 LO at The Glen 3-7 September
Message-ID: <cac.3c064ab3.35e75b97@cs.com>

FoT:

I know I've said this before, but it bears repeating.  

If it wasnt for Joe Richards we wouldnt have a significant piece of our 
heritage on it's wheels. If it wasnt for TR2 TS1 LO, we wouldnt be racing Triumphs. 
 

The FOT and VTR (WPTA) are honoring Joe & Dottie Richards at the Glen. They 
will be in the Triumph Paddock,  when they are not out and about the track and 
the Village.

During the weekend, Joe & Dottie are passing this cherished piece of Triumph 
History to Robert Parker Smith, as the new caretaker/owner. From the Glen it 
goes to Robert's private museum, in Hawaii.

TR2  TS1 LO  will also be featured at Watkins Glen International as our 
Honorary Pace Car for the Classic Motorsport's Kastner Cup Race. 

Be there at the track to express your appreciation to Joe & Dottie and 
congratulate Robert Parker on his acquisition.            

 ALOHA, TR2 TS1 LO!!!!

Joe Alexander
Friends of triumph   </HTML>

From tr6parts at charter.net  Wed Aug 27 20:22:34 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 19:22:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] GT6,TR6 intakes
Message-ID: <20080827222234.KY8G4.443862.root@mp16>

I had someone tell me they had a TR6, but the intake only had two post to mount the carbs.  The TR6 has 4 studs to mount the carbs.
I am thinking that it is an intake for a GT6.
I did not think that they were interchangable. Is that possible?
If they are not interchangable, then someone really goofed up on the intake or its had a complete motor swap with a GT6.
Did the GT 6 have Stombergs or SU's.

Thanks 
Al

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 20:23:29 2008
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 22:23:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switch
In-Reply-To: <082720082322.120.48B5E1A10004FD7F0000007822155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <082720082322.120.48B5E1A10004FD7F0000007822155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002901c908b5$0f90cb20$5d413b47@Scott>

Yes, it is very easily rebuildable.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 7:22 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switch

The TR3A OD switch has screws holding the casing together.  I have to wiggle
the switch to make it engage.  Has anyone taken one of these apart and
looked inside?  Are they "rebuildable," meaning can someone dink around with
the guts to make a superior product than what comes from the Big 3?
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Wed Aug 27 19:37:05 2008
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:37:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch tool
In-Reply-To: <000601c90843$3199bdc0$94cd3940$@rr.com>
References: <000601c90843$3199bdc0$94cd3940$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <0K6A000NMF3EWLL0@vms046.mailsrvcs.net>

At 08:48 AM 8/27/2008, John & Pat Donnelly wrote:
>Is there a special tool to tighten the outer ring that fastens the ignition
>switch? I've never been able to mine tight enough and the switch turns as I
>turn the key.

There was one recently on ebay.  Unfortunately it seems to be over 
and I didn't bookmark the item - maybe it'll be reposted.  About $15 
as I recall.


--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
96% finished, 90% to go 

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Wed Aug 27 20:39:10 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:39:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] more torqueeness, security, etc.
References: <082720081317.10707.48B553D10004E3A1000029D322165258569D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><51590D673D1849C2A4FBC1C459543B7A@KARL>
	<20080828002300.CMQO29012.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
Message-ID: <D1045A45E44344E390BB075D3F4DDFC1@KARL>

As long as they're surplus pliers they should work just fine.  Don't bother 
buying the $10-$15 Chinese ones that Horrible Freight, etc. sell.  They're 
made wrong and just don't work properly at all.  The handles aren't springy 
at all and the latch is hard to use and so weak that it quickly bends and 
won't hold closed.  After you safety a few fasteners, the latch will break 
and you can use the "lifetime warrantee".

Good safety wire pliers have springy handles to hold the wire without 
smashing it, and also have a clutch to allow then to twist either way, as 
needed, since properly in safetying a series of fasteners you should really 
alternate twisting directions to ensure that the "loops" around the heads of 
the fasteners stay in place.

And the best ones have wave-form jaws rather than serrated - they're called 
"Tiger-Wave" jaws.  They don't nick the wire at all, so there's much less 
chance of a wire breaking in service, and if you need to add a couple more 
twists, the "waves" bent into the wire turn right into neat twists matching 
the rest.

Enjoy your new hobby !!

Karl



> I've got some surplus safety-wire pliers at work, never knew exactly
> how to use them.  Now I can have some fun!
>
>
> Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
> http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
> Athens, Georgia         #354

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 27 20:56:10 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 19:56:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switch
In-Reply-To: <082720082322.120.48B5E1A10004FD7F0000007822155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080828025610.UAUK2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

> The TR3A OD switch has screws holding the casing together.  I 
> have to wiggle the switch to make it engage.  Has anyone 
> taken one of these apart and looked inside?  Are they 
> "rebuildable," meaning can someone dink around with the guts 
> to make a superior product than what comes from the Big 3?

Superior at least in cost!

Yah, pretty basic, a little cleaning couldn't hurt.

Randall

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Wed Aug 27 19:59:20 2008
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:59:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] A-type OD on ebay - crook warning!!
Message-ID: <0K6A00EAPG4GPND9@vms042.mailsrvcs.net>

Warning: The guy (his name is Ian Priestly) who posted item 
#320291783487 is a crook.  I bought 2 A-types from him years ago.  He 
said they had been rebuilt but they were both POS.  One had bits of 
dog food inside, the other was little more than recyclable 
Aluminum.  It took him over 4 months to ship them to me; he gave one 
excuse right after another, each of which seemed plausible.  Since I 
really wanted them, I ignored the alarm bells.    By the time they 
finally arrived, it was too late for ebay to do anything.  And I made 
the mistake of sending him a check, so I was screwed.   I know of a 
fellow Lister who bought a J-type which was also a POS.

Danger Will Robinson, danger!

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
96% finished, 90% to go  

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Thu Aug 28 06:31:11 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 08:31:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] cleaning electrical bullet connectors
In-Reply-To: <mailman.23527.1219882967.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF0FF540E3.4602BD6E-ON852574B3.0043A9FA-852574B3.0044C62E@exxonmobil.com>

In terms of cleaning the lucar connector sleeves, there is a great lucar
connector cleaning brush made by GEM Enterprises,
www.gem-enterprises.net/page3.html.  I have been using one of these brushes
for close to 10 years now on both my Spitfire and MGB.  If the lucar
connector is still in good condition, but just dirty, these are the cat's
meow in my opinion.

Randall, I do believe all TRs used bullet connectors.  I know my son's 76
TR7 has lots of them.  And you're right, it's a good idea to have a number
of these lucar connector sleeves on hand because sometimes the problem is
the metal has broken within the rubber sleeve.

Mark

Subject: Re: [TR] cleaning electrical bullet connectors

> I don't have much time at the moment to replace all the electrical
connectors on the GT6, let alone the whole
> wiring harness.  But I've been having some of the connectors get fritzy.
Is there a preferred way of minimizing
> future unintentional disconnect events?

In general, I polish away any corrosion I can reach with a Scotch-Brite pad
or similar.  Then bend as necessary to get a good, firm mechanical
connection; and apply a light coat of some suitable material to attempt to
keep future oxidation away.

Not sure if the GT6 uses bullet connectors; but sometimes the bullet
sleeves are simply broken inside and must be replaced.  It can be difficult
to tell, since the outer vinyl sleeve will shrink and grab the bullet at
the edge of
the sleeve.  So, I make sure to push the bullet well inside the sleeve, and
then check (by tugging gently on the wire) that it's held firmly by the
metal contact inside the sleeve.  If there is any play at all, the sleeve
should be replaced, IMO.  Arguably, sleeves are cheap enough (under $1 @
British Wiring) to just
replace whenever there is any doubt

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Aug 28 07:17:42 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 09:17:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] cleaning electrical bullet connectors
In-Reply-To: <OF0FF540E3.4602BD6E-ON852574B3.0043A9FA-852574B3.0044C62E@exxonmobil.com>
References: <mailman.23527.1219882967.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <48B66D36.31705.11FB5D0F@localhost>

On 28 Aug 2008 at 8:31, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com wrote:

> I do believe all TRs used bullet connectors.

Yes indeed, the GT6 has lots of 'em.  I'm trying to remember without 
having the car to look at, but I don't recall seeing any on the 
Spitfire.  Maybe by 1980 they'd switched connectors.  Knock on 
dashboard, it generally hasn't had 'lectrical problems.

My high-beam (a.k.a. main beam) connector had broken inside the 
sleeve.  I know of one other that had broken too.  I've got a bunch 
of singles and doubles on order.  And a headlight switch.

Tanks everybody.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 28 07:32:40 2008
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 08:32:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <BAY123-W7A392271356E29BCE6E65E1600@phx.gbl>

at 8:30 PM  EST (11:30 PM PST)

Are you sure you have these times correct?
Wouldn't it be 5:30 PM PST?


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 07:57:45 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 09:57:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch tool...back on Ebay at least!
In-Reply-To: <0K6A000NMF3EWLL0@vms046.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <000601c90843$3199bdc0$94cd3940$@rr.com>
	<0K6A000NMF3EWLL0@vms046.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <8CAD72D2E9E4A3D-8A0-97C@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>

The tools are back on eBay; see item # 140262091644. This is the one I 
have, and I'm very, very happy with it. Works just as advertised (and, 
presumably, just like the original after which it's modeled). Might be 
a bit pricey, but see how much time and money you spend refinishing the 
wood dash after you scratch it with improvised tools! :-(

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 08:19:27 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 10:19:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] A-type OD on ebay - crook warning!!
Message-ID: <c30.3d58117c.35e80def@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/27/2008 11:02:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jhassall at blacksburg.net writes:

Warning:  The guy (his name is Ian Priestly) who posted item 
#320291783487 is a  crook.  I bought 2 A-types from him years ago.  He 
said they had  been rebuilt but they were both POS.  One had bits of 
dog food  inside, the other was little more than recyclable 
Aluminum.  It took  him over 4 months to ship them to me; he gave one 
excuse right after  another, each of which seemed plausible.  Since I 
really wanted them,  I ignored the alarm bells.    By the time they 
finally arrived,  it was too late for ebay to do anything.  And I made 
the mistake of  sending him a check, so I was screwed.   I know of a 
fellow  Lister who bought a J-type which was also a POS.
 
 
this isn't the first time I've heard about this guy -
so why is his feedback still 100% positive?
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc





**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 09:02:12 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:02:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] A-type OD on ebay - crook warning!!
Message-ID: <ccd.3f96779b.35e817f4@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/28/2008 7:20:30 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
McGaheyRx at aol.com writes:

In a  message dated 8/27/2008 11:02:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,   
jhassall at blacksburg.net writes:

Warning:  The guy (his name is  Ian Priestly) who posted item 
#320291783487 is a  crook.  I  bought 2 A-types from him years ago.  He 
said they had  been  rebuilt but they were both POS.  One had bits of 
dog food   inside, the other was little more than recyclable 
Aluminum.  It  took  him over 4 months to ship them to me; he gave one 
excuse right  after  another, each of which seemed plausible.  Since I 
really  wanted them,  I ignored the alarm bells.    By the time they  
finally arrived,  it was too late for ebay to do anything.  And  I made 
the mistake of  sending him a check, so I was  screwed.   I know of a 
fellow  Lister who bought a J-type  which was also a POS.


this isn't the first time I've heard about  this guy -
so why is his feedback still 100%  positive?

Cheers,
Jack Mc





I bought a TR4 tranny and overdrive from a well known supplier  of  used TR 
parts in California at Triumphest a few years ago. He insisted  it worked just 
fine, no need to rebuild it etc. and even claimed HE had  personally driven 
the vehicle and it worked just great. I paid a very good  price for it based on 
his word.
 
When it arrived, the tranny and OD had been separated for some  reasons. The 
solenoid mountingplate had been broken and rewelded (not that way  at the 
show). 
 
Because I had such a hard time getting a straight story or replacement  parts 
, I had it disassembled and rebuilt. The rebuilder noted that whoever was  in 
it the last time had incorrectly safety wired some of the bolts and had  
routed the wiring in such a way that it prevented the accumulator from working.  
The od could have NEVER worked as the seller stated.
Mike Moore 59 TR3A



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 09:46:48 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:46:48 EDT
Subject: [TR] A-type OD on ebay - crook warning!!
Message-ID: <c32.386bebce.35e82268@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/28/2008 11:02:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  MMoore8425 
writes:

I bought  a TR4 tranny and overdrive from a well known supplier of  used  TR 
parts in California at Triumphest a few years ago. 
 
 
 
would that supplier be one that deals in Triumphs  only?



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 28 10:42:33 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 09:42:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Duhh
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W7A392271356E29BCE6E65E1600@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W7A392271356E29BCE6E65E1600@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <p06240800c4dc858667ff@[76.125.39.211]>

Thank you Rich,
	I can only plead "halfheimers" ... and you are correct, the 
Correct time would indeed be 5:30 PM  PST ... :-[   At  least the 
neighbors won't be so annoyed ...


>at 8:30 PM  EST (11:30 PM PST)
>
>Are you sure you have these times correct?
>Wouldn't it be 5:30 PM PST?
>
>
>Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
>
>'63 TR3B TCF587L
>
>That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
>See it moves!


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Aug 28 11:06:20 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 13:06:20 EDT
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <c3d.3e481f6c.35e8350c@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/28/2008 8:33:00 AM Central Daylight Time, 
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> at 8:30 PM  EST (11:30 PM PST)
> 
> Are you sure you have these times correct?
> Wouldn't it be 5:30 PM PST?
> 
> 
Not necessarily.  He may be referring to Paamiut Standard Time.  (Paamiut 
(aka: Frederikshab) being a city in southern Greenland is three hours in advance 
of the east coast of the US)

Dave


P.S. ;-)

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 11:45:48 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 13:45:48 EDT
Subject: [TR] Duhh
Message-ID: <d15.304a5248.35e83e4c@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/28/2008 9:53:26 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
anabil007 at comcast.net writes:

Thank  you Rich,
I can only plead "halfheimers" ... and you are  correct, the 
Correct time would indeed be 5:30 PM  PST ...  :-[   At  least the 
neighbors won't be so annoyed  ...



Bill, I would not want to run ANY engine at redline without a load for  any 
period of time. You may want to think about it. 
 
 
Mike Moore
 



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 12:02:28 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:02:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] Duhh
Message-ID: <bca.30fadd38.35e84234@aol.com>

no reason the car can't be in motion at the time is there?
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
In a message dated 8/28/2008 1:46:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
MMoore8425 at aol.com writes:

In a  message dated 8/28/2008 9:53:26 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,   
anabil007 at comcast.net writes:

Thank  you Rich,
I can only  plead "halfheimers" ... and you are  correct, the 
Correct time would  indeed be 5:30 PM  PST ...  :-[   At  least the  
neighbors won't be so annoyed  ...



Bill, I would not  want to run ANY engine at redline without a load for  any 
period of  time. You may want to think about it. 


Mike  Moore




**************It's only a deal if it's where you want  to go. Find your 
travel 
deal here.       
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You  are subscribed as  mcgaheyrx at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive





**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Thu Aug 28 12:19:02 2008
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:19:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Redline for Uncle Jack
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1219946401.14609.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF2AE5A20A.F39CBF4E-ON852574B3.0063B56E-852574B3.00649E86@gsk.com>

I really like the sentiment for this.

Rather than fire your TR up in the garage, to Mike Moore's point, could we 
all plan to be out in our serviceable TRs, on the road somewhere, at 08:30 
EST, letting these cars do what they were built to do, in recognition of 
the man.

I wonder how many cars, in how many states, we could get on the road at 
the same time?

Brian
1963 TR4, CT 14455-L

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 28 12:25:46 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:25:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] more torqueeness, security, etc.
In-Reply-To: <D1045A45E44344E390BB075D3F4DDFC1@KARL>
References: <082720081317.10707.48B553D10004E3A1000029D322165258569D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><51590D673D1849C2A4FBC1C459543B7A@KARL><20080828002300.CMQO29012.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
	<D1045A45E44344E390BB075D3F4DDFC1@KARL>
Message-ID: <D6ABE9792C364FE192C1653DCCCDBAA1@jdnet.deere.com>

> Don't bother buying the $10-$15 Chinese ones that Horrible Freight, etc.
> sell.  They're
> made wrong and just don't work properly at all.  The handles aren't
> springy
> at all and the latch is hard to use and so weak that it quickly bends and
> won't hold closed.  After you safety a few fasteners, the latch will break
> and you can use the "lifetime warrantee".

I'm still puzzling over this statement.  I bought my safety wire pliers at
HF quite a few years ago; and while I don't do a lot of safety wire work,
they've lasted far beyond "a few fasteners".  The handles are springy enough
that I have no trouble closing them even on .050" wire while they still grip
.025" firmly; and the latch has never bent or needed to be fiddled with.  

The latch spring is stiffer than some others I've used, so I've never
learned to hold the pliers and close the latch with the same hand (as I've
seen other mechanics do).  But for something I might use 8 or 10 times and
then put away for a year or two, it does the job.  And my left hand is
usually readily available to close the latch <G>

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 28 12:34:15 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:34:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Redline for Uncle Jack
In-Reply-To: <OF2AE5A20A.F39CBF4E-ON852574B3.0063B56E-852574B3.00649E86@gsk.com>
References: <mailman.5.1219946401.14609.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<OF2AE5A20A.F39CBF4E-ON852574B3.0063B56E-852574B3.00649E86@gsk.com>
Message-ID: <41699F1417004E62A42F913D4C8EC1E4@jdnet.deere.com>

> at 08:30 EST, 

How about 20:30 EST instead (which I believe was the original proposal)?

And I assume everyone realizes that the clocks at Watkins Glen will be
showing EDT on Sept 6 ...

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 13:09:56 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 15:09:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] more torqueeness, security, etc.
Message-ID: <d5a.2ceb8c54.35e85204@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/28/2008 11:26:33 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

I'm  still puzzling over this statement.  I bought my safety wire pliers  at
HF quite a few years ago; and while I don't do a lot of safety wire  work,
they've lasted far beyond "a few fasteners".  The handles are  springy enough
that I have no trouble closing them even on .050" wire while  they still grip
.025" firmly; and the latch has never bent or needed to be  fiddled with.  

The latch spring is stiffer than some others I've  used, so I've never
learned to hold the pliers and close the latch with the  same hand (as I've
seen other mechanics do).  But for something I  might use 8 or 10 times and
then put away for a year or two, it does the  job.  And my left hand is
usually readily available to close the latch  <G>



Mine have worked just fine also-through the restoration of two E Types  which 
are extensively safety wired.
I wonder what you are doing that's different.
 
Mike Moore 



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From kinneyjr at msn.com  Thu Aug 28 13:27:56 2008
From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 15:27:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] A-type OD on ebay - crook warning!!
In-Reply-To: <mailman.23589.1219935724.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.23589.1219935724.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY133-W87694EEB9FEECBEECE5BAC3600@phx.gbl>

Oh my, thanks for the heads up.  I asked him about the ODs and got this
response:

*****************
Hello, over the last 8 years i have sold about 20 "A" type and over 60 "J"
type overdrives worldwide, mainly in the USA/Canada, without problems. I can
only suggest you check my feedback,regards Ian -roslian******************

The thing is that you can't check his feedback.  I guess when it is too good
to be true, it just is.

So, who wants to sell me an A-type OD?Jeremy
_________________________________________________________________
Get thousands of games on your PC, your mobile phone, and the web with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588800/direct/01/

From triosan at gmail.com  Thu Aug 28 13:44:02 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 12:44:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] B&B available at the Glen event
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0808281244j5571174etdf9f6c09dd33849e@mail.gmail.com>

My mother, God rest her soul, died yesterday after a short sickness but many
years of pain.  I will always miss her,but am glad Ruth Arnold the person
has gone to be with her husband in a happier and pain free place.

That being said, it was a bad time to die for me as the funeral is Saturday
the 6th.  I am, therefore,having to cancel my trip to the Glen.  I have a
B&B reserved for 4 nights [Thurs-Sun] right in downtown Watkins Glen
[Blossums B&B].  I have not yet let the proprieter know.  IF anyone is
interested in taking over this reservation, let me know today and when I
cancel I will give them your contact information.

Sure am sad I am going to miss this once in a lifetime event -- it is just a
fitting cap to a Triumph season that saw me build out a car, get it running
real well, then have it break a rod before I could race it.

See you all at the Kastner Cup next year, wherever it may be!

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 28 14:17:44 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 13:17:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] speaking of A types
Message-ID: <817939.37421.qm@web59603.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Speaking of A-type OD's.  what are they selling for?  In the past i've heard
numbers like close to $1,000.  but here $250 mentioned.  I bought a wrecked
parts car around 10 yrs ago for $350 which had a good engine and A-type but
not one body part worth keeping.lol  Also how does one come up with prices on
parts?  Just guess?  Is there a salvage parts list available somewhere?
thanks!
gary n.

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Aug 28 14:18:27 2008
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 15:18:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] more torqueeness, security, etc.
References: <d5a.2ceb8c54.35e85204@aol.com>
Message-ID: <74F3E896332345B4995D9E2C8E7855A0@KARL>

Well, I guess I'm just more allergic to Chinese tools.  I've had 2 
replacements of each size in recent years, and I only used each one to twist 
perhaps 3-4 pieces of .032 wire.  Both of my HF pliers are in good shape 
now, as far as I can recall, because I haven't used them once since I bought 
the actual American tool.

And maybe they once were better made than they have been in the past 3 years 
or so since I bought them.  For 25+ years before I twisted every wire by 
hand, and had never once used a wire twister.  Years ago you could buy nice 
WWII surplus twisters for $20 or less, and I never bought any.  I finally 
broke down and bought some, but nowadays there aren't too many decent 
surplus ones available, so I tried one each (6" & 9") of the HF ones.

Glad you guys got good pairs from HF - I didn't.

Another thing that has nothing to do with the springiness of the handles is 
the propensity of the cheap ones to nick and flatten the wire.  If the wire 
is nicked or overstressed, that might be a future crack.

You don't necessarily get what you pay for, but you sure don't get more.....

When you're reaching into a dark and crowded engine compartment with oily 
hands and want to grab wires that are between components, latch the pliers 
with one hand, and twist wires upon which your life may rely, it's great to 
have a good tool in your hand.  The twisters I have are a pleasure to use, 
they work easily, they twist both ways, and when I snip off wires they hold 
the cut ends rather than shooting them out and into God-knows-where.  It 
cost me about an hour's fuel for the Stearman.  Having used them for a while 
now, I'd even pay more.

Karl





> I'm  still puzzling over this statement.  I bought my safety wire pliers 
> at
> HF quite a few years ago; and while I don't do a lot of safety wire  work,
> they've lasted far beyond "a few fasteners".  The handles are  springy 
> enough
> that I have no trouble closing them even on .050" wire while  they still 
> grip
> .025" firmly; and the latch has never bent or needed to be  fiddled with.
>
> The latch spring is stiffer than some others I've  used, so I've never
> learned to hold the pliers and close the latch with the  same hand (as 
> I've
> seen other mechanics do).  But for something I  might use 8 or 10 times 
> and
> then put away for a year or two, it does the  job.  And my left hand is
> usually readily available to close the latch  <G>
>
> Mine have worked just fine also-through the restoration of two E Types 
> which
> are extensively safety wired.
> I wonder what you are doing that's different.

From ceaston at oberon.ark.com  Thu Aug 28 15:53:46 2008
From: ceaston at oberon.ark.com (chuck easton)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:53:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Overdrive woes
Message-ID: <00a901c90958$8dbb3c80$6700a8c0@Easton>

Greetings

I have been trying to troubleshoot a TR6 Type J overdrive for the last couple
of days. It's in a '73 and the electrical circuit is set up with a relay
similar to earlier models. The problem is it cuts out when changing speed.  I
have replaced the relay and the transmission switch. The column switch is new
and seems to work fine. I have not touched the solenoid. I hooked a light into
the circuit at the solenoid and when it quits the solenoid is not getting
power.

Running down a highway, everything works fine. If you slow down for traffic or
drive around a residential area it will quit and wont work upon returning to
highway speeds. If you leave the column switch in the on position the
overdrive will engage after periods of time ranging from hours to a couple of
minutes. If anyone has resolved a similar problem I would sure like to hear
from you.

Chuck Easton
73 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 28 15:54:15 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:54:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] more torqueeness, security, etc.
In-Reply-To: <74F3E896332345B4995D9E2C8E7855A0@KARL>
References: <d5a.2ceb8c54.35e85204@aol.com>
	<74F3E896332345B4995D9E2C8E7855A0@KARL>
Message-ID: <7525D53C9F164394A3833DE28D304BB9@jdnet.deere.com>

> The twisters I have are a pleasure to use,
> they work easily, they twist both ways, and when I snip off wires they
> hold
> the cut ends rather than shooting them out and into God-knows-where.  It
> cost me about an hour's fuel for the Stearman.

I'll agree, if I could afford both a Stearman and the fuel to fly it; I
probably wouldn't buy tools at HF.
<G>

But then, I'd probably be driving a Cobra instead of a Triumph, too.

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 16:01:58 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:01:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] A-type OD on ebay - crook warning!!
Message-ID: <d09.41d79f1a.35e87a56@aol.com>

Interesting.  I bought a J type from him because I have a friend who  bought 
two from him and has operated them for a long time without  incident.  
Personally, When my J type arrived the mainshaft had exited the box from  
shipping mishandling, so I contacted the seller and he told me the mainshaft was  
coming under separate cover.  I then threw away the box.  Long story  short, 
he thought I was someone else and in fact the mainshaft was supposed to  be in 
the box.  The insurance refused to cover because I threw away the box  and 
Priestly replaced the mainshaft at his cost.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Thu Aug 28 16:10:43 2008
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:10:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] A-type OD on ebay - crook warning!!
In-Reply-To: <c30.3d58117c.35e80def@aol.com>
References: <c30.3d58117c.35e80def@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48B72263.7090807@frontiernet.net>

Did you give him negative feedback? If not, why not?

Up until recently most people were afraid that if they gave negative 
feedback they would get in turn, and in fact almost certainly would. 
However, Ebay has changed the rules, and sellers can no longer give 
feedback.

George Richardson



McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/27/2008 11:02:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> jhassall at blacksburg.net writes:
>
> Warning:  The guy (his name is Ian Priestly) who posted item 
> #320291783487 is a  crook.  I bought 2 A-types from him years ago.  He 
> said they had  been rebuilt but they were both POS.  One had bits of 
> dog food  inside, the other was little more than recyclable 
> Aluminum.  It took  him over 4 months to ship them to me; he gave one 
> excuse right after  another, each of which seemed plausible.  Since I 
> really wanted them,  I ignored the alarm bells.    By the time they 
> finally arrived,  it was too late for ebay to do anything.  And I made 
> the mistake of  sending him a check, so I was screwed.   I know of a 
> fellow  Lister who bought a J-type which was also a POS.
>  
>  
> this isn't the first time I've heard about this guy -
> so why is his feedback still 100% positive?
>  
> Cheers,
> Jack Mc
>
>
>
>
>
> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
> deal here.      
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as gprtech at frontiernet.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rx74evr at mchsi.com  Thu Aug 28 16:54:56 2008
From: rx74evr at mchsi.com (rx74evr at mchsi.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 17:54:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] A-type OD on ebay - crook warning!!
References: <c30.3d58117c.35e80def@aol.com> <48B72263.7090807@frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <004f01c90961$17dcbdf0$6500a8c0@butterb3msfn9p>

Yes, Ebay has had some wise ideas on how to level out the playing field for 
buyers and sellers now. Now instead of sellers holding buyers hostage with 
feedback, now its the other way around...LOL , thats using your brain Ebay! 
I think I'd like to run Ebay for awhile, first thing i'd do is get rid of 
that cheesy baby blue background some goofball Ebay site designer put on 
Ebay Motors last year when they changed the site over, second thing would be 
to put the search features back the way they were, i hate the new 
layout!...Gosh is it hard to use now...!

Just my .02

Paul Castle


> Did you give him negative feedback? If not, why not?
>
> Up until recently most people were afraid that if they gave negative
> feedback they would get in turn, and in fact almost certainly would.
> However, Ebay has changed the rules, and sellers can no longer give
> feedback.
>
> George Richardson

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Aug 28 16:56:13 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:56:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Overdrive woes
In-Reply-To: <00a901c90958$8dbb3c80$6700a8c0@Easton>
Message-ID: <48B6F4CD.30820.140D00C4@localhost>

On 28 Aug 2008 at 14:53, chuck easton wrote:

> I have been trying to troubleshoot a TR6 Type J overdrive

If the tranny oil is low it could act like that.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Thu Aug 28 17:42:45 2008
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 19:42:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] A-type OD on ebay - crook warning!!
In-Reply-To: <48B72263.7090807@frontiernet.net>
References: <c30.3d58117c.35e80def@aol.com> <48B72263.7090807@frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <0K6C007D54GTKAUB@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net>

At 06:10 PM 8/28/2008, George Richardson wrote:
>Did you give him negative feedback? If not, why not?

No, I couldn't give him negative feedback because I waited too 
long.  His excuses all sounded plausible (I even talked to him on the 
phone a bunch of times), so I was sucked in and gave him the benefit 
of the doubt.  When the crappy units arrived I called him and he hung up on me.

jim


>Up until recently most people were afraid that if they gave negative 
>feedback they would get in turn, and in fact almost certainly would. 
>However, Ebay has changed the rules, and sellers can no longer give feedback.
>
>George Richardson
>
>
>
>McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote:
>>In a message dated 8/27/2008 11:02:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>>jhassall at blacksburg.net writes:
>>
>>Warning:  The guy (his name is Ian Priestly) who posted item 
>>#320291783487 is a  crook.  I bought 2 A-types from him years 
>>ago.  He said they had  been rebuilt but they were both POS.  One 
>>had bits of dog food  inside, the other was little more than 
>>recyclable Aluminum.  It took  him over 4 months to ship them to 
>>me; he gave one excuse right after  another, each of which seemed 
>>plausible.  Since I really wanted them,  I ignored the alarm 
>>bells.    By the time they finally arrived,  it was too late for 
>>ebay to do anything.  And I made the mistake of  sending him a 
>>check, so I was screwed.   I know of a fellow  Lister who bought a 
>>J-type which was also a POS.
>>
>>
>>this isn't the first time I've heard about this guy -
>>so why is his feedback still 100% positive?
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Jack Mc
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find 
>>your travel deal here.
>>(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>>http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>>You are subscribed as gprtech at frontiernet.net
>>
>>http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>
>>

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
96% finished, 90% to go 

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Thu Aug 28 18:05:14 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:05:14 EDT
Subject: [TR] Hardy Prentice and Jack Wheeler to Join The FOT at The Glen
Message-ID: <d30.3a7479bd.35e8973a@cs.com>

FOT,

Two National Champions in Triumphs will be our Honored Guests.

Hardy Prentice in a his TR3  and  Jack Wheeler in his TR4A won National 
Championships in recent history.

They might have been part of The Legends Speak, but they are too young to be 
Legends. (I dont know what the cutoff date is)

They will be Head Quartered at the WPTA Hospitality Tent when they are not 
out and about the track, or playing darts at the Classic Motorsport English Pub.

Please greet them and then get all of the speed secrets you can get out of 
them...

Regards,

Joe Alexander



   </HTML>

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 18:41:35 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:41:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] A-type OD on ebay - crook warning!!
In-Reply-To: <BAY133-W87694EEB9FEECBEECE5BAC3600@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.23589.1219935724.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<BAY133-W87694EEB9FEECBEECE5BAC3600@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CAD7871FAE1EFB-1784-22C3@Webmail-mg19.sim.aol.com>

 I would suggest calling him and asking him for a phone number or email of a previous buyer.? He should want to do this so that he can easily prove he is legit.? If he cant do this then he probably isnt worth doing business with.? And if he gives you a line that he doesnt have that information I would find that hard to believe.? When higher dollar amounts change hands often an exchange of vital information is completed.? Often if you dont feel comfortable then that is a good indication to look elsewhere.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Kinney <kinneyjr at msn.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 3:27 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] A-type OD on ebay - crook warning!!










Oh my, thanks for the heads up.  I asked him about the ODs and got this
response:

*****************
Hello, over the last 8 years i have sold about 20 "A" type and over 60 "J"
type overdrives worldwide, mainly in the USA/Canada, without problems. I can
only suggest you check my feedback,regards Ian -roslian******************

The thing is that you can't check his feedback.  I guess when it is too good
to be true, it just is.

So, who wants to sell me an A-type OD?Jeremy
_________________________________________________________________

From L1J1S at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 18:43:27 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:43:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] PHI HILL
Message-ID: <bd4.3b147b53.35e8a02f@aol.com>

Hello, today PHIL HILL at the age of 81 passed away in calif. due to  
respiratory. complications and along with Parkinson disease. R.I.P.. LARRY  SCHWARTZ



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Aug 28 22:23:18 2008
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 21:23:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switch
Message-ID: <772574.61852.qm@web83309.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     My OD switch took a little jiggling to get it to work. I ordered a repro switch and installed it. It worked backwards from the original. The original was up to engage and the repro was down to engage. Reversing the wiring didn't change it. I opened up the repro and reversed the wires inside and now it is the same as the original. I looked at the original and it looks like where the switch toggle hit the casing was so worn that the switch would pass over the center. I liked the original more and may go back to it.
     Good luck,

     -Bill in Tehachapi


The TR3A OD switch has screws holding the casing together.  I have to wiggle the switch to make it engage.  Has anyone taken one of these apart and looked inside?  Are they "rebuildable," meaning can someone dink around with the guts to make a superior product than what comes from the Big 3?
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Aug 28 22:23:52 2008
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 21:23:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switch
Message-ID: <409523.48090.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     My OD switch took a little jiggling to get it to work. I ordered a repro switch and installed it. It worked backwards from the original. The orignal was up to ingage and the repro was down to engage. Reversg the wiring didn't change it. I opened up the repro and reversed the wires inside and now it is the same as the orignal. I looked at the original and it looks like where the switch toggle hit the casing was so worn that the switch would pass over the center. I liked the orignal mo

Message: 14
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 23:22:09 +0000
From: terryrs at comcast.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switch
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID:
    <082720082322.120.48B5E1A10004FD7F0000007822155538949C9D979D9D0A9B at comcast.net>
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The TR3A OD switch has screws holding the casing together.  I have to wiggle the switch to make it engage.  Has anyone taken one of these apart and looked inside?  Are they "rebuildable," meaning can someone dink around with the guts to make a superior product than what comes from the Big 3?
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Fri Aug 29 00:29:14 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 02:29:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Speedo Problem Update
Message-ID: <8CAD7B7B0C569E5-E18-3EC4@webmail-de13.sysops.aol.com>

 Hi Everyone:

Tonight was spent working with fellow TR6 owner Rick Patton trying to figure out exactly what is wrong with my speedo since it stopped working after the speedo cable snapped a couple inches from the right angle drive.? We discovered that the plastic piece on the speedo end would bind in the metal sleeve when attached to the speedo.? A little filing allowed the whole unit to function properly at the speedo end.? Off to check out the other end and to cut off a bit of the cable since it was too long.? But before cutting I decided to remove the angle drive in order to make sure everything was still able to spin correctly.? Well, the end that screws into the OD had snapped so the right angle drive is useless.? So, which came first, the speedo end binding and causing the speedo cable and right angle to break or did the right angle drive seize first.? My money is on the little plastic piece seizing and causing the other two problems.? Before I order a replacement right angle drive from TRF I thought I would ask the list if anyone had a decent one laying around picking up dust that they might want to get rid of?

And Vance, I did lube the cable with moly grease to hopefully minimze internal cable friction.

Thanks in advance.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Fri Aug 29 05:46:17 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 07:46:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Overdrive woes
References: <00a901c90958$8dbb3c80$6700a8c0@Easton>
Message-ID: <005101c909cc$da55e350$0300a8c0@Desktop>

Churk
You may want to go to the top cover and check the four gear relay to see if 
it is sticking if so. Try cleaning it or replace it
Craig
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "chuck easton" <ceaston at oberon.ark.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 5:53 PM
Subject: [TR] Overdrive woes


> Greetings
>
> I have been trying to troubleshoot a TR6 Type J overdrive for the last 
> couple
> of days. It's in a '73 and the electrical circuit is set up with a relay
> similar to earlier models. The problem is it cuts out when changing speed. 
> I
> have replaced the relay and the transmission switch. The column switch is 
> new
> and seems to work fine. I have not touched the solenoid. I hooked a light 
> into
> the circuit at the solenoid and when it quits the solenoid is not getting
> power.
>
> Running down a highway, everything works fine. If you slow down for 
> traffic or
> drive around a residential area it will quit and wont work upon returning 
> to
> highway speeds. If you leave the column switch in the on position the
> overdrive will engage after periods of time ranging from hours to a couple 
> of
> minutes. If anyone has resolved a similar problem I would sure like to 
> hear
> from you.
>
> Chuck Easton
> 73 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri Aug 29 05:48:50 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 06:48:50 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Continuing brake light bulb failure
Message-ID: <21017636.2217871220010530355.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

To the list,

This question is for my 1972 Triumph TR6.

I had to replace a lense on the driver's side rear tail light a month or 
so ago.

Since I did that, I am having an issue where everything back there 
works, then the bulb fails when the brake is applied.  The last time, I 
took the lists advice and bought a new socket with one of the grounding 
tabs and replaced the whole socket, bulb and ground it seperately.

Last night, my neighbor advised me that the brake light on that side was 
not working again.

Any advice from the list as to how I should go about fixing this?  I am 
assuming that it is related to my removal and install of the tail light.

The Prince Of Darkness is really ticking me off.

Thanks,

Craig H. Nicholls
Vienna, VA

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Aug 29 06:32:24 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 08:32:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] Overdrive woes
Message-ID: <d60.30599223.35e94658@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/28/2008 5:06:18 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ceaston at oberon.ark.com writes: 
> I have been trying to troubleshoot a TR6 Type J overdrive for the last 
> couple
> of days. It's in a '73 and the electrical circuit is set up with a relay
> similar to earlier models. The problem is it cuts out when changing speed.  
> I
> have replaced the relay and the transmission switch. The column switch is 
> new
> and seems to work fine. I have not touched the solenoid. I hooked a light 
> into
> the circuit at the solenoid and when it quits the solenoid is not getting
> power.
> 
When you say "changing speed" do you mean changing gears?  It could be the 
switch mounted on the top of the transmission.  The one that detects when either 
third or fourth gear is selected.  First check to see if it is loose.  If it 
is not then try removing one of the shims used to adjust the height of the 
switch.

When you do this set the transmission in either third or fourth before 
screwing the switch in.  If the switch binds before it gets tight on the shims then 
it is too tight and you may need another switch.

Dave   

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Aug 29 07:19:10 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 09:19:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Continuing brake light bulb failure
In-Reply-To: <21017636.2217871220010530355.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>
Message-ID: <48B7BF0E.3262.1723112D@localhost>

On 29 Aug 2008 at 6:48, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:

> The Prince Of Darkness is really ticking me off.

Apparently you ticked him off first.

All seriousness aside though, what exactly is happening to make the 
light not work?  Is the bulb blowing repeatedly?  Is it just not 
making a good connection somewhere?  If you rig something to depress 
the pedal can you then make the light come on by fiddling with the 
bulb or the connectors or the ground?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri Aug 29 07:25:16 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 08:25:16 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Continuing brake light bulb failure
Message-ID: <9802420.9810971220016316326.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

  Jim,

Thanks for the reponse.  The scenario is I replace the bulb.  Bulb works
with lights on and when brake is depressed.

At some point in the future, when the brake is depressed, light does not
get brighter.

Replace bulb, all is well until it happens again.  Socket was replaced
with a socket that has a grounding tab.  Fiddling with the bulb, socket,
or wires does not cause an issue.

Thanks,
Craig

On Fri, Aug 29, 2008 at  9:19 AM, Jim Muller wrote:

> On 29 Aug 2008 at 6:48, thenicholls at verizon.net
> <mailto:thenicholls at verizon.net> B  <mailto:thenicholls at verizon.net>
> B wrote:

> The Prince Of Darkness is really ticking me off.

Apparently you ticked him off first.

All seriousness aside though, what exactly is happening to make the
light not work?B  Is the bulb blowing repeatedly?B  Is it just not
making a good connection somewhere?B  If you rig something to depress
the pedal can you then make the light come on by fiddling with the
bulb or the connectors or the ground?

--
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com <mailto:jimmuller at rcn.com> B 
<mailto:jimmuller at rcn.com>
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org <http://www.vtr.org> B  <http://www.vtr.org>

Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net> B 
<mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> B 
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs>

You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net
<mailto:thenicholls at verizon.net> B  <mailto:thenicholls at verizon.net>

http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive> B 
<http://www.team.net/archive>

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Fri Aug 29 07:30:11 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 09:30:11 EDT
Subject: [TR] Continuing brake light bulb failure
Message-ID: <bbc.2c746fc7.35e953e3@aol.com>

Craig,
 
Are you saying that every time you replace the bulb, it works for a  few 
times when the brakes are applied then the bulb actually fails?  When  this 
happens, does the bulb work at all i.e., would it light if you ran a pair  of test 
leads from the battery to the bulb by itself?
 
A couple of thoughts come to mind....If each replacement bulb really does  
fail then I would suspect the bulbs you're using.  Is it possible that  you're 
using 6 volt bulbs?  If you're taking the replacement bulbs out  of a package 
of several bulbs, try using another one of  those bulbs on the other side 
(brake light) as a replacement just as a  test or, better yet, take the battery 
test leads and see how long one the  package bulbs will stay lit from direct 
battery voltage. 
 
Weird things can happen from defective bulbs.  Some of the more common  are a 
tailight becoming very bright on one side when the brakes are applied or  one 
brake light turning off when the brakes are applied but to consistently  burn 
out a 12 volt filament bulb with 12 volts (or even 13.5 to 14.5 volts  if the 
alternator is charging) seems to point to defective  bulbs.
 
Good luck...keep us updated on what you find!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/29/2008 7:49:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
thenicholls at verizon.net writes:

I am  having an issue where everything back there 
works, then the bulb fails  when the brake is applied.




**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Aug 29 07:35:21 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 09:35:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Continuing brake light bulb failure
In-Reply-To: <9802420.9810971220016316326.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>
References: <9802420.9810971220016316326.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>
Message-ID: <8CAD7F337F6B8CE-A04-143D@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: thenicholls at verizon.net

Thanks for the reponse.  The scenario is I replace the bulb.  Bulb works
with lights on and when brake is depressed.

At some point in the future, when the brake is depressed, light does not
get brighter.

Replace bulb, all is well until it happens again.  Socket was replaced
with a socket that has a grounding tab.  Fiddling with the bulb, socket,
or wires does not cause an issue.

==AM==
I wonder if it could be the bulbs themselves? Sadly, and like so many 
other parts out there nowadays, there are some really poor quality 
bulbs originating from Pacific Rim countries.

Several months ago, I bought a two-pack of typical 1157 stop/tail bulbs 
at a local auto parts store. I put one of them in my mom's '95 Mercury 
to replace a burned-out bulb. The new bulb functioned only for about 
one week. I tried the other new bulb and couldn't even get it to work.

In frustration, I went over to a long-junked Herald I have sitting in 
the yard and pulled out of the exposed tail lamp unit what must have 
been a 40-year-old bulb, stuck it in the Mercury, and it's worked ever 
since! ;-)

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From boggiano at charter.net  Fri Aug 29 08:12:19 2008
From: boggiano at charter.net (Thomas Boggiano)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 10:12:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs
References: <0K6A00EAPG4GPND9@vms042.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <000501c909e1$3fa0bc80$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com>

Hi All
I am trying to source the oil gallery ends for my engine rebuild. For the 
end plugs Moss number 328-255 has them listed as not available and for the 
side plugs Moss number 328-300 also not available.

Can anyone point me at a source for these?

Here is a link to the moss site with the
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29116#34

Thanks
Tom 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Aug 29 08:48:32 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 10:48:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Continuing brake light bulb failure
In-Reply-To: <9802420.9810971220016316326.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>
Message-ID: <48B7D400.32245.1774DF8F@localhost>

On 29 Aug 2008 at 8:25, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:

> Thanks for the reponse.  The scenario is I replace the bulb.  Bulb works 
> with lights on and when brake is depressed.
> 
> At some point in the future, when the brake is depressed, light does not 
> get brighter.

Yes, but...but...  A few other replies have already touched on the 
issue but I'll continue anyway.

When you say the light does not get brighter, you are describing the 
overt symptom but not any underlying cause.  So a key question is 
this:  Is the bulb burning out???  If you just take out the bulb and 
re-insert it, does it work again?  If you insert that bulb in the 
opposite side, does it still not work?  If the same bulb can be made 
to work again, in either side, then the problem is wiring.  If you 
put the working bulb from the other side into the problematic socket, 
does the problematic side now work properly?

If the bulb is actually burning out, then you have faulty bulbs, or 
bulbs intended for 6v, or some weird electrical thing sending high-
voltage spikes into the line (but which somehow aren't burning out 
anything else).

Now, it is possible for a burned out bulb to work intermittently if 
the filament is still intact enough to lay across the wire it is 
supposed to touch.  Such a bulb can seem to work but after minor 
physical agitation not work, and then maybe even work again.

It sounds like you have some bad bulbs, but you need to verify this.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 29 09:12:47 2008
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 08:12:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Woes
Message-ID: <660642.70822.qm@web80403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Since when you have intermittent overdrive there is no electrical power to the
solenoid, my guess is you have a lockout switch (Moss part # 140-470) on the
transmission that sometimes doesn't close and sometimes does close. Try
jumpering this switch and if the overdrive is always on when the dash (or
steering column) switch is on, it's the lockout switch.  But very careful not
to use reverse while you have the lockout switch jumpered and overdrive
engaged, or you'll damage the overdrive.
brgds, Jay
'64 TRiumph TR4 since '67

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Aug 29 10:30:11 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 09:30:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Continuing brake light bulb failure
In-Reply-To: <48B7D400.32245.1774DF8F@localhost>
References: <48B7D400.32245.1774DF8F@localhost>
Message-ID: <p06240800c4ddd34ba214@[76.125.39.211]>

Just a quick note on quality replacement bulbs.  My "big"cars have 
been Toyota for many years, 150K on a 1990 Cressida ... not  one bulb 
burned out.  125K on a 1998 Avalon ... no bulb failure ... 85K on 
2004 Sienna ... one bulb (stop/turn) failed ... Bought the 
replacement from ... Toyota.   No problems since.
Using this logic, when the bulbs on the TR6 started going I replaced 
them  with Toyota bulbs. Not one failure since.  So wherever Toyota 
gets their  bulbs,must be pretty good, and perhaps a source that 
could help defeat the "Prince"  ... at least that is my experience 
...

>On 29 Aug 2008 at 8:25, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:
>
>>  Thanks for the reponse.  The scenario is I replace the bulb.  Bulb works
>>  with lights on and when brake is depressed.
>>
>>  At some point in the future, when the brake is depressed, light does not
>>  get brighter.
>
>Yes, but...but...  A few other replies have already touched on the
>issue but I'll continue anyway.
>
>W


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Aug 29 12:00:57 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 14:00:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Continuing brake light bulb failure
In-Reply-To: <p06240800c4ddd34ba214@[76.125.39.211]>
References: <48B7D400.32245.1774DF8F@localhost>
Message-ID: <48B80119.20043.18250A7F@localhost>

On 29 Aug 2008 at 9:30, Bill & AnnaBelle wrote:

> So wherever Toyota gets their  bulbs,must be pretty good, and
> perhaps a source that could help defeat the "Prince"

Either defeat him or mak him very, very angry.  Toyota bulbs in a 
TR???

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 29 12:16:35 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 14:16:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Joe & Dottie Richards & TR2 TS1 LO at The Glen 3-7
 September
In-Reply-To: <cac.3c064ab3.35e75b97@cs.com>
References: <cac.3c064ab3.35e75b97@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W31A0BC4EEBCC56CF013C71A5630@phx.gbl>

The FOT and VTR (WPTA) are honoring Joe & Dottie Richards at the Glen. They
will be in the Triumph Paddock,  when they are not out and about the track and
the Village. Will TS1 LO be driven in the Tour de Marque? Or be displayed
downtown on Friday?

Thanks,

John H.

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Aug 29 12:43:47 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 14:43:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] Joe & Dottie Richards & TR2 TS1 LO at The Glen 3-7 September
Message-ID: <d4b.395c2379.35e99d63@cs.com>

Will TS1 LO be driven in the Tour de Marque? Or be displayed downtown on 
Friday?
 
Thanks,
 
John H.


John Herrera, 

I am glad you asked.  I have lost track of the Village side of the planning. 
If Joe & Robert are not signed up for any of this stuff, and they want to 
participate, we will have an opportunity to petition them in on Thursday Evening.

It seems fitting that TS1 LO be placed on display even if they are not 
registered for the concours.  The Tour De Marque seems like an opportunity, if they 
wish to do this.

The appearance of TR2 TS1 LO will greatly enhanced the experience at Watkins 
Glen.  It needs to be seen. I know that was to be part of the Festival Program 
publication. I think our Gary Horstkorta submitted something. (but I am 
losing track of the elements...I have not been keeping notes on anything.)

Joe ?  Robert?  What say ye?   

Glenda/Marianne? Anything to add?

Joe Alexander

Friends of Triumph   </HTML>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 29 13:09:09 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 12:09:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Continuing brake light bulb failure
In-Reply-To: <p06240800c4ddd34ba214@[76.125.39.211]>
References: <48B7D400.32245.1774DF8F@localhost>
	<p06240800c4ddd34ba214@[76.125.39.211]>
Message-ID: <E12D2CABC9DA48C8A036F998FA430E90@jdnet.deere.com>

> So wherever Toyota
> gets their  bulbs,must be pretty good, and perhaps a source that
> could help defeat the "Prince"  ... at least that is my experience

I'll agree, there seems to be a huge variation in lifetime of the combo
brake/tail bulbs on the market today.  I've had a "no name" bulb from a
discount store fail within minutes of installing it.  And my personal
experience has been that Philips bulbs seem to fail much sooner than GE.
(Side note: When I worked for Philips, the maintenance department insisted
that Philips bulbs lasted less than half as long as GE.)

But there is also a sizeable variation in rated lifetime of different bulbs.
I've recommended 2357 bulbs in the past, because they are roughly 25%
brighter than "standard" 1157 bulbs; but they also have a much shorter rated
lifetime (approximately 1/3 that of the 1157).

However, Craig's case sounds odd to me.  My first step would be to verify
that the "bad" bulbs are, in fact, burned out.  Using the DMM that IMO every
old car owner should carry with them.

Set the meter to "ohms X1".  The display should show full scale, or infinite
resistance.  Touch the leads together and verify that the reading goes to
(nearly) zero.  Now hold one lead to the brass bulb base, and touch each
contact in turn with the other lead.  You should see a low resistance
reading (a few ohms or less) for each contact.  If not, the associated
filament is burned out (or broken, etc.)

I'm also wondering what happens when the tail lights are not on.  If there
is a light visible without the brake pedal depressed, then there may be a
wiring problem with the car.

Randall

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 29 13:09:54 2008
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 12:09:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] oil gallery plugs
Message-ID: <821570.91269.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

thomas,
for some of those plugs and bolts. ect.  i just go down to my local
hardware store that has a good selection of hardware like that and find plugs
in the bin with correct thread size ect.  lots more available locally than
you'd imagine.

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 29 13:18:16 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 12:18:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Woes
In-Reply-To: <660642.70822.qm@web80403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <660642.70822.qm@web80403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <27FDCCD2FB3F402B9F577E6203DB0A73@jdnet.deere.com>

>  my guess is you have a lockout switch (Moss part # 140-470) on
> the
> transmission that sometimes doesn't close and sometimes does close.

I agree with Jay.  However, a safer (and possibly easier, if it's hard to
duplicate the problem) way of testing would be to temporarily add a test
light across the lockout switch, and bring it out to where the driver can
see it.

I setup a length of lamp cord, with connectors at one end that my meter (or
test lamp) leads would plug into, and quick connects on the other end.  Then
I have various terminations, including alligator clips, and quick connect
jumpers, that can attach to the quick connects on the lamp cord.  Easy to
make, and a valuable tool for troubleshooting intermittent electrical
problems.  After just one use, I was glad I took the time to make it.

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Aug 29 15:24:29 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 17:24:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Joe & Dottie Richards & TR2 TS1 LO at The Glen 3-7
 September
In-Reply-To: <BLU143-W31A0BC4EEBCC56CF013C71A5630@phx.gbl>
References: <cac.3c064ab3.35e75b97@cs.com>
	<BLU143-W31A0BC4EEBCC56CF013C71A5630@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <200808291724.29727.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday 29 August 2008 02:16 pm, John Herrera wrote:
> The FOT and VTR (WPTA) are honoring Joe & Dottie Richards at the Glen. They
> will be in the Triumph Paddock,  when they are not out and about the track
> and the Village. Will TS1 LO be driven in the Tour de Marque? Or be
> displayed downtown on Friday?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John H.
John,

I am planning on driving to the Glen on Saturday to spend the whole day there.

How does one go about attending all the events?

What should I do if I just "Arrive". Is there some registration, etc?

All I really want to do is meet up with you Triumph List folks who I know by 
name but have never met in person.

Cant stay overnight, saturday only.


Should be driving the 58.

Bob

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Fri Aug 29 16:34:52 2008
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 22:34:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Woes - new question
Message-ID: <082920082234.3627.48B8798C00003D5500000E2B22069984999D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net>

On a related issue (sort of) - is there an overdrive lockout switch that works opposite of normal? Specifically, normally "ON"? A friend has a TR4 withan OD but the topplate only has the reverse light switch location drilled out. He would like to use that location for a switch that would lock out the overdirve in Reverse. Or perhaps there is a solenoid that would produce the desired effects?

Did we have this discussion before? I can't find it in the archives.
TIA,
Bob 

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> >  my guess is you have a lockout switch (Moss part # 140-470) on
> > the
> > transmission that sometimes doesn't close and sometimes does close.
> 
> I agree with Jay.  However, a safer (and possibly easier, if it's hard to
> duplicate the problem) way of testing would be to temporarily add a test
> light across the lockout switch, and bring it out to where the driver can
> see it.
> 
> I setup a length of lamp cord, with connectors at one end that my meter (or
> test lamp) leads would plug into, and quick connects on the other end.  Then
> I have various terminations, including alligator clips, and quick connect
> jumpers, that can attach to the quick connects on the lamp cord.  Easy to
> make, and a valuable tool for troubleshooting intermittent electrical
> problems.  After just one use, I was glad I took the time to make it.
> 
> Randall
> _______________________________________________

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 29 16:46:41 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 15:46:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Woes - new question
In-Reply-To: <082920082234.3627.48B8798C00003D5500000E2B22069984999D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net>
References: <082920082234.3627.48B8798C00003D5500000E2B22069984999D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D17761C0416D4E1EB240B830A2BEFB20@jdnet.deere.com>

> On a related issue (sort of) - is there an overdrive lockout switch that
> works opposite of normal? Specifically, normally "ON"?

I'm not aware of one, that fits the predrilled holes.

> A friend has a TR4
> withan OD but the topplate only has the reverse light switch location
> drilled out.

Of course, the proper solution is to drill and tap the other two holes; or
trade top covers for one that is already drilled and tapped.

> He would like to use that location for a switch that would
> lock out the overdirve in Reverse.

Although the damage isn't nearly as severe as reverse, operating a standard
A-type in 1st gear is also pretty hard on the unit.  Since the OD has to
handle the multiplied torque from the engine, it 'sees' much more torque in
1st gear, but the relatively low shaft speed means the pump output is very
low.  The result is very likely to be slippage under some common conditions,
like pulling away from a stop sign, which will lead to rapid clutch wear.

> Or perhaps there is a solenoid that
> would produce the desired effects?

Sure, all you need is a relay with a "normally closed" contact.  Most
general purpose automotive relays have a NC contact, for example eBay
280258230235.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280258230235

> Did we have this discussion before? I can't find it in the archives.

Beats me.  Did we?

Randall

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Aug 29 18:07:58 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 17:07:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Woes - new question
In-Reply-To: <082920082234.3627.48B8798C00003D5500000E2B22069984999D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net>
References: <082920082234.3627.48B8798C00003D5500000E2B22069984999D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808291707y72d5c033tde12c99b75c7f4f2@mail.gmail.com>

The danger there, I think, is that any failure such as a loose or
broken wire could result in the OD being operable in reverse.

With the original lock-out design most faults would render the OD inoperable.

Geo

On 8/29/08, kinderlehrer at comcast.net <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> On a related issue (sort of) - is there an overdrive lockout switch that
> works opposite of normal? Specifically, normally "ON"?...

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Fri Aug 29 19:09:04 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 21:09:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rusty Panel treatment
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPAEKCFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Wow,
Talk about belts and suspenders!
When I was fixing my TR4A sheet metal, I would strip the part down to bare
metal, coat it with a phosphorous spray like POR-15 Metal Prep, then paint
it with epoxy primer!

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 29 19:21:21 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 18:21:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Switch
In-Reply-To: <409523.48090.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <409523.48090.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C7AFAA73CD5D4C59AC2818BCADB1D8E4@jdnet.deere.com>

> It worked backwards from the original. The
> orignal was up to ingage and the repro was down to engage.

I went through the same thing, many years ago.  At the time, the consensus
seemed to be that the factory configuration was "OD engaged" with the switch
lever down.  This is the same way British light switches work.  But
TS39781LO came to me with what appeared to be the original switch,
configured the other way (OD engaged with toggle up).

Kind of makes me wonder if some dealers were changing the switch around; or
if perhaps the factory did so when delivering to the US.

As I recall, I found that the original switch could be assembled either way.
There was an extra contact, so the same result could be accomplished by
changing the wires, but it turned out that the body of the switch could be
mounted to the stalk (extending from the dash) in either orientation.  So it
wasn't necessary to swap the wires.

Randall

From tr6parts at charter.net  Fri Aug 29 19:26:56 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 18:26:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr6 intake
Message-ID: <20080829212656.WRL94.499454.root@mp16>

I am need of some TR6 late model intakes (long neck).
If you have one hanging around you'd like to sell. please contact me.

Cheers

Al

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Fri Aug 29 20:24:38 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 22:24:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs
Message-ID: <c21.31a66dd1.35ea0966@aol.com>

Tom
It my understanding that no one is making those. Every one I have talked to  
that have needed them have had a machine shop start with a bar of steel and  
fabricate them from scratch.
Where they also a pipe thread? Requiring re-taping of the galley?
Frank



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sat Aug 30 07:11:12 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 09:11:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3 -a vent cover
Message-ID: <d4b.396e9f1b.35eaa0f0@aol.com>

hello, does anyone have a spare vent cover for a post 60000 tr3? i am  
looking foe one.  larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Aug 30 12:48:26 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 14:48:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Low Rev Miss
Message-ID: <ccc.3cd77c3b.35eaeffa@aol.com>

Hi Gang,
Weekend warrior here.  I am still fighting this low rev miss in the  TR6.  
Perhaps I was a little hasty to think that the Dizzy was crap as was  my thought 
last weekend.  You know after 28 years of Triumphs on the road  one would 
think I should be able to defeat this but NO I am really  stumped.  I have gone 
thru the full route of fault diagnosis by part  substitution with no positive 
effect. Wires, cap, rotor and  then  latest was a new point set & condenser.  
You know what that got  me?  No spark!  Really I had to put the old points back 
in for spark.  The condenser does not appear to be playing any role.  That 
really  stumps me.  Are there bad point sets out there?
Another symptom perhaps related is that every now and then I only get  a 
click when I turn the key.  I was thinking that the starter was going bad  and I 
have another one on order but I wonder if that is an indication of  another 
fault? Battery cables etc are real clean.
Darrell
 



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com  Sat Aug 30 14:19:27 2008
From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 15:19:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Low Rev Miss
In-Reply-To: <ccc.3cd77c3b.35eaeffa@aol.com>
References: <ccc.3cd77c3b.35eaeffa@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CED1C5056479415898FB5124785A9438@aitinc.local>

Darrell,

It sounds like have a bad connection somewhere that you disturbed when 
removing and replacing the points.  Bad distributor low tension lead?  Moss 
# 153-640

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32907#74

The starter problem sounds like a bad starter relay or starter solenoid.  A 
weak battery will also cause the same problem (enough juice to make the 
solenoid engage but not enough to actually turn the starter).  Have the 
battery load tested at your local auto parts store.  If the battery is down, 
make sure the alternator is doing the job before replacing the battery. 
I've seen several batteries replaced when the real fault was a non-operative 
alternator.

Terry Geiger
59 MGA Roadster~59 MGA Coupe~74 Triumph TR6~70 MGBGT~63 Triumph Herald~84 
Mercedes 300D
www.GeigerGarage.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 1:48 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Low Rev Miss


> Hi Gang,
> Weekend warrior here.  I am still fighting this low rev miss in the  TR6.
> Perhaps I was a little hasty to think that the Dizzy was crap as was  my 
> thought
> last weekend.  You know after 28 years of Triumphs on the road  one would
> think I should be able to defeat this but NO I am really  stumped.  I have 
> gone
> thru the full route of fault diagnosis by part  substitution with no 
> positive
> effect. Wires, cap, rotor and  then  latest was a new point set & 
> condenser.
> You know what that got  me?  No spark!  Really I had to put the old points 
> back
> in for spark.  The condenser does not appear to be playing any role.  That
> really  stumps me.  Are there bad point sets out there?
> Another symptom perhaps related is that every now and then I only get  a
> click when I turn the key.  I was thinking that the starter was going bad 
> and I
> have another one on order but I wonder if that is an indication of 
> another
> fault? Battery cables etc are real clean.
> Darrell

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sat Aug 30 14:24:49 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 16:24:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Low Rev Miss
Message-ID: <c6f.25499187.35eb0691@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/30/2008 11:49:34 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
TR250Driver at aol.com writes:

Hi  Gang,
Weekend warrior here.  I am still fighting this low rev miss in  the  TR6.  
Perhaps I was a little hasty to think that the Dizzy  was crap as was  my 
thought 
last weekend.  You know after 28  years of Triumphs on the road  one would 
think I should be able to  defeat this but NO I am really  stumped.  I have 
gone 
thru the  full route of fault diagnosis by part  substitution with no 
positive  
effect. Wires, cap, rotor and  then  latest was a new point set  & condenser. 
 
You know what that got  me?  No  spark!  Really I had to put the old points 
back 
in for spark.   The condenser does not appear to be playing any role.  That  
really  stumps me.  Are there bad point sets out  there?
Another symptom perhaps related is that every now and then I only  get  a 
click when I turn the key.  I was thinking that the  starter was going bad  
and I 
have another one on order but I wonder  if that is an indication of  another 
fault? Battery cables etc are  real clean.
Darrell




Darrell, for what its worth, I had this same problem on my 63 Jag. I was so  
frustrated I borrowed a complete
ignition set (HT harness, distributor, coil) from a friends and installed  it 
in my car. It ran perfectly. I then started swapping my parts back in.  
Here's what I found:
 
1. Coil-my brand new coil was defesctive. I replaced it with a Hi  Voltage 
coil.
 
2. Plug wires-my plug ends were arcing to ground. I replaced all theplastic  
plug ends and carefully oriented the plastic plug ends so they weren't  close 
to ground.
 
3. My locally "rebuilt" distributor performed poorly.I sent it to ASNG  
Barratt (jaguar) and exchanged it for a fabulously rebuilt Lucas dizzy.
 
also,I would be cautious with any new rotor. Theonly good ones I have found  
come from the Distributor Doctor in the UK.
 
 
Best, Mike Moore 



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat Aug 30 20:42:27 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 22:42:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] test-delete
Message-ID: <000c01c90b13$351f7cf0$3106a942@alan>


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Aug 31 06:38:09 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 08:38:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] active and TR6
Message-ID: <200808310838.09790.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

My messages dont seem to be getting to the list.

Can someone reply if this msg gets received?

Also decided to buy a 72 TR6. Needs a full resto but I have seen worse.

Please let me know if anyone receives this post.

I get the echo posts but I have emailed another lister about my list messages 
and he says they are not being posted.

I have checked my status online and everything seems to be ok.

Have not received any msgs in 48 hours.

Bob

From cm.sherman at verizon.net  Sun Aug 31 07:58:34 2008
From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 09:58:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Original TR3 front Brake Caliper color
In-Reply-To: <8CAD72D2E9E4A3D-8A0-97C@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
References: <000601c90843$3199bdc0$94cd3940$@rr.com>
	<0K6A000NMF3EWLL0@vms046.mailsrvcs.net>
	<8CAD72D2E9E4A3D-8A0-97C@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
Message-ID: <65EFFE697C854F58B5A29E788ECCEE90@DellXPS720>

Thinking of using epoxy Brake Caliper Paint, but not sure on the original
OEM color...
Gold, I thought... any thoughts.


http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=34792

Corey Sherman

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Aug 31 08:34:32 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 10:34:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield
Message-ID: <bdf.3b08d9ae.35ec05f8@aol.com>

hello, i am looking for a tr3-a (post 60000) windshield frame with  
stanchions(with screws). if anyone has one me contact me. happy labor day,   larry 
schwartz 1960 tr3-a



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Aug 31 10:10:42 2008
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 09:10:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Original TR3 front Brake Caliper color
In-Reply-To: <65EFFE697C854F58B5A29E788ECCEE90@DellXPS720>
References: <000601c90843$3199bdc0$94cd3940$@rr.com>
	<0K6A000NMF3EWLL0@vms046.mailsrvcs.net>
	<8CAD72D2E9E4A3D-8A0-97C@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com>
	<65EFFE697C854F58B5A29E788ECCEE90@DellXPS720>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0808310910k76907adcj3cfedf7b8f4789f7@mail.gmail.com>

As fas as I know, they were bare aluminum (or whatever alloy was used).

On 8/31/08, Corey Sherman <cm.sherman at verizon.net> wrote:
> Thinking of using epoxy Brake Caliper Paint, but not sure on the original
> OEM color...
> Gold, I thought... any thoughts.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 31 10:33:05 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 09:33:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Original TR3 front Brake Caliper color
In-Reply-To: <65EFFE697C854F58B5A29E788ECCEE90@DellXPS720>
Message-ID: <20080831163305.YTIO13299.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall>

> Thinking of using epoxy Brake Caliper Paint, but not sure on 
> the original OEM color...

AFAIK, the OEM color was "as cast".  However, the TRA judging guidelines
state "no deduction for components finished to approximate natural metal",
so a neutral matte gray should be OK.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 31 11:00:33 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 10:00:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs
In-Reply-To: <c21.31a66dd1.35ea0966@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080831170033.BJEM27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> It my understanding that no one is making those. Every one I 
> have talked to that have needed them have had a machine shop 
> start with a bar of steel and fabricate them from scratch.
> Where they also a pipe thread? Requiring re-taping of the galley?

I don't know offhand, but I've got plenty of spare blocks if you want to
come measure one.  Or better yet, cart it away <G>

Randall

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Sun Aug 31 11:00:39 2008
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 18:00:39 +0100
Subject: [TR] Strange engine miss
Message-ID: <EF22B7BB-33A7-4C0E-9364-355B5F1A196D@tcd.ie>

While still trying to get my TR2 engine to run smoothly, I noticed  
this- it seems the engine is running on 3 cylinders due to the rough  
idle, I discovered if I pull the plug cap off No2 plug while running  
there is no change in the rough idle, however when I bring the cap  
near the plug but not actually pushed into place the engine picks up  
and runs smoothly, and when I push the cap fully home the rough idle  
returns. Any ideas?
John

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun Aug 31 11:11:47 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 13:11:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumph People, Parts & Posters at The Glen
Message-ID: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>

ALL TRIUMPH FOLKS

Some notes on the forthcoming Vintage Grand Prix at Watkins Glen with the 
featured car being our Triumphs.

You all know, Ted Schumacher and he is almost 20 years into vending at The 
Glen. See Ted at his booth.

While not vending at the Glen, folks like Richard Good, Tony Vigliotti, Matt 
Bakes, TRF, Moss,  and  A.R.E. will be represented. Look for them in the 
Triumph Paddock.

Tony Drews will be bringing some inventory on the Heavy Duty Front Spindles 
and Spacers, that Uncle Jack developed. Uncle Jack's recent TR6 seat bracket 
for Miata Conversions, will be there. 

We will all be wandering around the Triumph Paddock most of the time, and you 
will want to visit......

CLASSIC MOTORSPORTS OLDE ENGLISH PUB....
 
with that Limey, Gary Hunter, as Bartender. AND CLASSIC MOTORSPORTS IS THE 
OFFICIAL SPONSOR  OF THE KASTNER CUP TROPHY RACE ON SUNDAY AT 3:00pm

There are free posters for VTR members and Kas Kastner and other interesting 
folks will be lurking around to sign them. Posters may also be available for 
sale to non-VTR members for a very nominal cost. The President of VTR, Blake 
Discher, will be on hand.

If you know anything about the Western Pennsylvania Triumph Association, 
(VTR) they are the Official Hosts for the Friends of Triumph and can be found in 
their familiar STRIPED TENT. 

Of course, we are HONORING JOE & DOTTIE RICHARDS and the meticulously 
restored TR2 TS1 LO.   TS1 LO will be on display at the Grand Prix Festival in The 
Glen and in the Triumph Paddock.

On Saturday night we will be celebrating the Life of Uncle Jack Drews. The 
Kastner Cup Race will be dedicated to Uncle Jack and will feature "THE MISSING 
MAN FORMATION" on the PACE LAP.  

The Kastner Cup Honorary Pace Car will be the Triumph TR2 TS1 LO,  that has 
been purchased by Robert Parker Smith, and will become part of his private 
collection Hawaii.

The Glen will also be the location that JOHN MACARTNEY is going officially 
kick off the    promotion of the TransAmerica Charity Drive in the US & Canada. 
He will be on hand to discuss and has a powerpoint presentation.   
LOOK AT:  <http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/> 

There's a lot more, but that's enuff. I got to pack. See you there!

Joe A

   </HTML>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 31 11:20:56 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 10:20:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Strange engine miss
In-Reply-To: <EF22B7BB-33A7-4C0E-9364-355B5F1A196D@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <20080831172057.BNPV27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>

> While still trying to get my TR2 engine to run smoothly, I noticed
> this- it seems the engine is running on 3 cylinders due to 
> the rough idle, I discovered if I pull the plug cap off No2 
> plug while running there is no change in the rough idle, 
> however when I bring the cap near the plug but not actually 
> pushed into place the engine picks up and runs smoothly, and 
> when I push the cap fully home the rough idle returns. Any ideas?

That's a classic symptom of a plug that is fouled or glazed.  I'd start by
replacing the plug.  If the problem happens again, you may need to work on
why/how it got that way.  Glazing sometimes results when the plug gets
fouled under some conditions, then starts running and the fouling burns off.

'Glazing' is a (mildly) conductive coating on the insulator that can bleed
off the spark energy before the voltage rises high enough to jump the gap.
By introducing another gap (having the cap not quite touching the plug
terminal), the voltage rises high enough to jump both gaps before the
glazing (or fouling) can bleed it off.

Randall

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 31 11:33:32 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 13:33:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>
References: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>

Hey, how about a head count if list members going to the Glen so we can keep
an eye open hoping to spot one another.

Evelyn and Marty Sukey will be there, who else?

_________________________________________________________________
Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Aug 31 11:36:36 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 13:36:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] active and TR6.
Message-ID: <200808311336.36589.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Well it looks like I am back alive on the list.

Thanks to everyone who replied to my query.

Randall did notice this is the 1st message he has seen from me since last 
wednesday.

Well I did make a post asking about the Glen this comming weekend and never 
did receive a reply.

So I emailed Joe directly and he replied that he didnt see my post but 
answered all my questions.

I guess my email just fell in to the bit bucket somewhere.

Anyway, just got home from a nice ride in the 3. Wonderful day up here in 
central NY.

I am hoping next weekend will be more of the same as I will be taking the 3 to 
the Glen on Saturday.

Hope to see some faces to put together with the names I have been talking with 
on this list for all these years and line up some help for my upcomming new 
project the 72 TR6.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Aug 31 11:38:32 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 13:38:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
References: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>
	<BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <200808311338.32800.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 31 August 2008 01:33 pm, marty sukey wrote:
> Hey, how about a head count if list members going to the Glen so we can
> keep an eye open hoping to spot one another.
>
> Evelyn and Marty Sukey will be there, who else?
>
Bob Labuz from Deerfield NY wil be there on Saturday in the Yellow TR3A. NY 
plates.

ALso I just remembered I need to subscribe to the 6 list now!

Bob

From trglory at comcast.net  Sun Aug 31 12:16:23 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 14:16:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7E8C105920A04E67897DE2BB2CFF7BFF@newbox>

I'll be there in a green TR8.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
marty sukey
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 1:34 PM
To: 6 Digest; Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Glen head count

Hey, how about a head count if list members going to the Glen so we can keep
an eye open hoping to spot one another.

Evelyn and Marty Sukey will be there, who else?

_________________________________________________________________
Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as trglory at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From AA00727 at aol.com  Sun Aug 31 12:36:23 2008
From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 14:36:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] Heater switch
Message-ID: <d53.309d8136.35ec3ea7@aol.com>

I need a heater switch for my '62 TR-3. Anyone have a spare or know  where I 
can find one?
 
 Gary B



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 31 13:10:50 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 15:10:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
References: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>
	<BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W38C2B7441ED19E27998F58A55D0@phx.gbl>

> Hey, how about a head count if list members going to the Glen so we can
keep> an eye open hoping to spot one another.> > Evelyn and Marty Sukey will
be there, who else?

John (J.R.) Herrera in Powder Blue TR3 with Maryland tags.

In the Tour de Marque.

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 31 13:12:08 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 15:12:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Original TR3 front Brake Caliper color
In-Reply-To: <65EFFE697C854F58B5A29E788ECCEE90@DellXPS720>
References: <000601c90843$3199bdc0$94cd3940$@rr.com>
	<0K6A000NMF3EWLL0@vms046.mailsrvcs.net>
	<8CAD72D2E9E4A3D-8A0-97C@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com> 
	<65EFFE697C854F58B5A29E788ECCEE90@DellXPS720>
Message-ID: <BLU143-W1679A6E72ABE1F5BFB968CA55D0@phx.gbl>

> Thinking of using epoxy Brake Caliper Paint, but not sure on the original>
OEM color...> Gold, I thought... any thoughts.> > >
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=34792> > Corey
Sherman

Eastwood Spray Grey.

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 31 13:21:04 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 14:21:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs
In-Reply-To: <20080831170033.BJEM27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall
  >
References: <c21.31a66dd1.35ea0966@aol.com>
	<20080831170033.BJEM27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <20080831192056.92D09187669@autox.team.net>

There's a pipe thread that's close to what's in the block 
originally.  Re-tap them with this, and put brass pipe thread plugs 
with allen head ends.  Just tap it deep enough that at least the 
front plug doesn't interfere with the front plate.  Also, if you go 
too deep with the front plug, make sure you don't block the feed to 
the front main - I had to grind a bevel on the backside of mine since 
I got a little overzealous with the tap.  I shove some paper towel 
down the gallery before tapping so as little crap as possible gets in 
the gallery, and then I clean it out very well before 
assembly.  Works best on a bare block that you can clean all passages 
thoroughly after tapping.

- Tony Drews

At 12:00 PM 8/31/2008, Randall wrote:
> > It my understanding that no one is making those. Every one I
> > have talked to that have needed them have had a machine shop
> > start with a bar of steel and fabricate them from scratch.
> > Where they also a pipe thread? Requiring re-taping of the galley?
>
>I don't know offhand, but I've got plenty of spare blocks if you want to
>come measure one.  Or better yet, cart it away <G>
>
>Randall

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 31 13:54:38 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 14:54:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs
In-Reply-To: <20080831192056.92D09187669@autox.team.net>
References: <c21.31a66dd1.35ea0966@aol.com>
	<20080831170033.BJEM27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<20080831192056.92D09187669@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080831195430.13FD8187650@autox.team.net>

The tap and plugs are 1/2"-14 NPT.

- Tony

At 02:21 PM 8/31/2008, Tony Drews wrote:
>There's a pipe thread that's close to what's in the block
>originally.  Re-tap them with this, and put brass pipe thread plugs
>with allen head ends.  Just tap it deep enough that at least the
>front plug doesn't interfere with the front plate.  Also, if you go
>too deep with the front plug, make sure you don't block the feed to
>the front main - I had to grind a bevel on the backside of mine since
>I got a little overzealous with the tap.  I shove some paper towel
>down the gallery before tapping so as little crap as possible gets in
>the gallery, and then I clean it out very well before
>assembly.  Works best on a bare block that you can clean all passages
>thoroughly after tapping.
>
>- Tony Drews
>
>At 12:00 PM 8/31/2008, Randall wrote:
> > > It my understanding that no one is making those. Every one I
> > > have talked to that have needed them have had a machine shop
> > > start with a bar of steel and fabricate them from scratch.
> > > Where they also a pipe thread? Requiring re-taping of the galley?
> >
> >I don't know offhand, but I've got plenty of spare blocks if you want to
> >come measure one.  Or better yet, cart it away <G>
> >
> >Randall
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Aug 31 14:51:37 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 20:51:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Glen head count
Message-ID: <083120082051.3935.48BB045900077BAD00000F5F2200734364970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com> 

> Hey, how about a head count if list members going to the Glen so we can keep 
> an eye open hoping to spot one another. 
> 
> Evelyn and Marty Sukey will be there, who else? 

I'll be there, arrviving Wednesday PM.
Irv Korey

From eoot at citlink.net  Sun Aug 31 14:59:19 2008
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:59:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Glen head count
References: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>
	<BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <005701c90bac$704832b0$640a0a0a@WANDERER>

Ed and Marsha Oot

Yellow TR3A WV plate

Will be in the Tour de Marque
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "6 Digest" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph List" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 1:33 PM
Subject: [TR] Glen head count


> Hey, how about a head count if list members going to the Glen so we can 
> keep
> an eye open hoping to spot one another.
>
> Evelyn and Marty Sukey will be there, who else?
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with
> Windows..
> http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Sun Aug 31 19:55:07 2008
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 21:55:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
References: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>
	<BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <29DD22D6A0044787B5246DF62164557D@Scott>

My wife, Cindy, and I will be heading up with about 25+ other club members
from the Central PA Triumph Club. A number of us will be staying at the
Country Inn and Suites in Horse Heads (we have been going to the Glen's
Vintage Races for the past 6 years).

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR
'59 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of marty sukey
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 1:34 PM
To: 6 Digest; Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Glen head count

Hey, how about a head count if list members going to the Glen so we can keep
an eye open hoping to spot one another.

Evelyn and Marty Sukey will be there, who else?

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Sun Aug 31 17:29:16 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 19:29:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs
References: <c21.31a66dd1.35ea0966@aol.com><20080831170033.BJEM27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall><20080831192056.92D09187669@autox.team.net>
	<20080831195430.13FD8187650@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <26A4B25233584EE78D78E9F188171AC6@D1TG6Y71>

It's probably BSP (British Standard Pipe) not NPT, but they are so close in 
terms of diameter and TPI (the only difference is the 55deg thread form 
instead of the 60deg of the US one) that I would guess it would work.

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs


> The tap and plugs are 1/2"-14 NPT.
>
> - Tony
>
> At 02:21 PM 8/31/2008, Tony Drews wrote:
>>There's a pipe thread that's close to what's in the block
>>originally.  Re-tap them with this, and put brass pipe thread plugs
>>with allen head ends.  Just tap it deep enough that at least the
>>front plug doesn't interfere with the front plate.  Also, if you go
>>too deep with the front plug, make sure you don't block the feed to
>>the front main - I had to grind a bevel on the backside of mine since
>>I got a little overzealous with the tap.  I shove some paper towel
>>down the gallery before tapping so as little crap as possible gets in
>>the gallery, and then I clean it out very well before
>>assembly.  Works best on a bare block that you can clean all passages
>>thoroughly after tapping.

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Aug 31 18:17:27 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 20:17:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Help deciphering Standard Triumph hardware catalog vs. Triumph
 Spare Parts Catalog
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEKJFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Hi,
I hope someone can help me out here. I am finally getting to completion of
my TR4A IRS chassis rebuild. That isn't my question..
Anyway, I have decided to replace the bolts that connect my half shafts to
the diff and also the bolts that connect the drive shaft to the end of the
transmission. I can't find the bag of parts so I am going by the Spare Parts
Catalog which states the bolt is a 107960 with a TN3209 Nyloc nut. Switching
to my Standard Triumph Hardware catalog the nut is a 3/8 UNF nyloc nut. The
screw is not in the catalog as a 107960. Looking in the hex bolt section,
there is a 3/8 x 1-1/4 Hex UNF bolt that is a HB0960. I am guessing that is
what I want. There are no hex bolts starting with "107".
Can someone please confirm this for me? I want to send an order off to
McMaster-Carr.

Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 Tr4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Aug 31 20:46:09 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 20:46:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] Strange engine miss
In-Reply-To: <EF22B7BB-33A7-4C0E-9364-355B5F1A196D@tcd.ie>
References: <EF22B7BB-33A7-4C0E-9364-355B5F1A196D@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <0177052E4B72440EBE30C04F6DA2E9A6@sniffer>

John,

Your plug is fouled, replace it.  While you have the plug out check the
compression.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Gillis
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 11:01 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Strange engine miss

While still trying to get my TR2 engine to run smoothly, I noticed
this- it seems the engine is running on 3 cylinders due to the rough idle, I
discovered if I pull the plug cap off No2 plug while running there is no
change in the rough idle, however when I bring the cap near the plug but not
actually pushed into place the engine picks up and runs smoothly, and when I
push the cap fully home the rough idle returns. Any ideas?
John
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.14/1643 - Release Date: 8/30/2008
5:18 PM

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 31 21:59:39 2008
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 22:59:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs
In-Reply-To: <000801c90bd8$4ecae110$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com>
References: <c21.31a66dd1.35ea0966@aol.com>
	<20080831170033.BJEM27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<20080831192056.92D09187669@autox.team.net>
	<20080831195430.13FD8187650@autox.team.net>
	<000801c90bd8$4ecae110$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com>
Message-ID: <20080901035952.7F874187682@autox.team.net>

Hmm.  I could have sworn that's what I used that tap for.  I'm not 
totally sure of the size, but I'm sure of the technique.  Maybe I 
borrowed a larger tap from uncle jack...  The original threads are 
straight threads, so you really have to glue whatever you stick in 
there in place.  If you go to the NPT thread / plug deal, they are 
tapered and you're sure of no leaks.

- Tony

At 09:13 PM 8/31/2008, Thomas Boggiano wrote:
>Hi Tony
>
>The gallery plugs are larger than 1/2 inch. They measure closer to 3/4 of an
>inch.
>Are you sure of the NPT? I found a steel set screw that is 3/4 -16
>
>Tom
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:54 PM
>Subject: Re: [TR] oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs
>
>
>>The tap and plugs are 1/2"-14 NPT.
>>
>>- Tony
>>
>>At 02:21 PM 8/31/2008, Tony Drews wrote:
>>>There's a pipe thread that's close to what's in the block
>>>originally.  Re-tap them with this, and put brass pipe thread plugs
>>>with allen head ends.  Just tap it deep enough that at least the
>>>front plug doesn't interfere with the front plate.  Also, if you go
>>>too deep with the front plug, make sure you don't block the feed to
>>>the front main - I had to grind a bevel on the backside of mine since
>>>I got a little overzealous with the tap.  I shove some paper towel
>>>down the gallery before tapping so as little crap as possible gets in
>>>the gallery, and then I clean it out very well before
>>>assembly.  Works best on a bare block that you can clean all passages
>>>thoroughly after tapping.
>>>
>>>- Tony Drews
>>>
>>>At 12:00 PM 8/31/2008, Randall wrote:
>>> > > It my understanding that no one is making those. Every one I
>>> > > have talked to that have needed them have had a machine shop
>>> > > start with a bar of steel and fabricate them from scratch.
>>> > > Where they also a pipe thread? Requiring re-taping of the galley?
>>> >
>>> >I don't know offhand, but I've got plenty of spare blocks if you want to
>>> >come measure one.  Or better yet, cart it away <G>
>>> >
>>> >Randall
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>
>>>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>>>http://www.vtr.org
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 31 22:50:33 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 21:50:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Help deciphering Standard Triumph hardware catalog vs.
 Triumph Spare Parts Catalog
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEKJFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <20080901045033.JYLC9828.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall>

The reason they have a 'special' part number (not in the standard hardware
catalog) is because they are a special fastener.  The unthreaded shank is
longer than usual, the threaded portion is shorter than usual.  If memory
serves, the shank is also larger than usual (full nominal size, rather than
the usual "easy fitting" undersize).

My suggestion is to buy the proper fastener from TRF et al.  More expensive,
but not nearly as expensive as ruining a flange (by having threads cut into
it).

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 31 22:56:27 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 21:56:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs
In-Reply-To: <20080901035952.7F874187682@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080901045627.VZNA2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall>

Pipe threads are sized by the nominal inside diameter of the pipe; while
bolt threads are sized by the nominal outside diameter of the bolt.  As a
result, 1/2" pipe threads are actually slightly larger than 3/4" bolt
threads.

But bolt threads are not designed to seal, so pipe threads are appropriate
for this application (especially at the front, where the plug has to not
protrude or it will interfere with the front plate).

Randall

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Aug 31 23:20:02 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 23:20:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] Help deciphering Standard Triumph hardware catalog vs.
 Triumph Spare Parts Catalog
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEKJFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEKJFBAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <5BA632A6D2454E989D0D7C8F631853CB@sniffer>

Dave,

This is the same bolt listed for the driveshaft connection on my TR3A.  You
can get the correct bolt from TRF @$1.98ea.  The bolt carries a Triumph part
number because it is especially made for this application, the shoulder is
long enough to cover the 'shear' area of your connection.  If you were to
use a high-grade Hex-cap threaded bolt, with the treads going all the way to
the cap,  the threads would eventually cut into the flanges and ruin it.

These words of wisdom are passed along from Randall who set me on the right
course last month when I was about to go buy some Grade 7 bolts locally.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Connitt
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 6:17 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Help deciphering Standard Triumph hardware catalog vs. Triumph
Spare Parts Catalog

Hi,
I hope someone can help me out here. I am finally getting to completion of
my TR4A IRS chassis rebuild. That isn't my question..
Anyway, I have decided to replace the bolts that connect my half shafts to
the diff and also the bolts that connect the drive shaft to the end of the
transmission. I can't find the bag of parts so I am going by the Spare Parts
Catalog which states the bolt is a 107960 with a TN3209 Nyloc nut. Switching
to my Standard Triumph Hardware catalog the nut is a 3/8 UNF nyloc nut. The
screw is not in the catalog as a 107960. Looking in the hex bolt section,
there is a 3/8 x 1-1/4 Hex UNF bolt that is a HB0960. I am guessing that is
what I want. There are no hex bolts starting with "107".
Can someone please confirm this for me? I want to send an order off to
McMaster-Carr.

Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 Tr4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a
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