From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Apr 1 04:26:00 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 07:26:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A and parts References: <000801c88941$e8197080$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> <4f6a01c88949$218b14c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <008401c893eb$29b2f210$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> List, Anyone interested in a disassembled TR3A and a collection of 30 years of spare parts, please contact me off list for info and photos. It's all in Jacksonville, FL and would have to be picked up. Owner is looking for $3000 or offers. NFI. Ed Woods From cofrog at q.com Tue Apr 1 14:46:42 2008 From: cofrog at q.com (DANNY D FORGEY) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 21:46:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] Test - ignore Message-ID: Just a test :-) From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Apr 1 14:48:57 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 14:48:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet! Message-ID: Today is April 1 and this is not a trick email. We have about 77 entries for the UBSCC All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet on May 18th. The Yolo County Fairgrounds is calling for you to enter your car! We don't have enough cars to set classes yet, so we need you to go to the club web site and fill out a form. Remember, we need at least 3 cars in each class. We have decided to give out 3 trophies this year instead of 2 plus a ribbon, so get your car preregistered! Go here to register for the show: http://ubscc.org/CarShow.htm Our silent auction crew is needing your donations and help, too. Email Katie Owens at kathrynaowens at comcast.net if you have something to donate for the show or if you can help solicit donations for the show . Email Mac Sawhill or Rich Thomas if you can help with parking. Mac sawhill at att.net Rich richbthomas at comcast.net Email Jerry if you live close enough to the fairgrounds to help with some scouting activities. Or if you would like to volunteer for some other area. Jerry grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net If you are a member of any of the British Car Email lists: Please send out a reminder to register for the show to your list. This often gets the attention of other clubs and people from other states. Jerry Costanzo 916 652 4537 Chairman of the All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Apr 1 14:48:57 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 14:48:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet! Message-ID: Today is April 1 and this is not a trick email. We have about 77 entries for the UBSCC All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet on May 18th. The Yolo County Fairgrounds is calling for you to enter your car! We don't have enough cars to set classes yet, so we need you to go to the club web site and fill out a form. Remember, we need at least 3 cars in each class. We have decided to give out 3 trophies this year instead of 2 plus a ribbon, so get your car preregistered! Go here to register for the show: http://ubscc.org/CarShow.htm Our silent auction crew is needing your donations and help, too. Email Katie Owens at kathrynaowens at comcast.net if you have something to donate for the show or if you can help solicit donations for the show . Email Mac Sawhill or Rich Thomas if you can help with parking. Mac sawhill at att.net Rich richbthomas at comcast.net Email Jerry if you live close enough to the fairgrounds to help with some scouting activities. Or if you would like to volunteer for some other area. Jerry grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net If you are a member of any of the British Car Email lists: Please send out a reminder to register for the show to your list. This often gets the attention of other clubs and people from other states. Jerry Costanzo 916 652 4537 Chairman of the All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet From cbhlouky at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 1 17:54:12 2008 From: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net (Craig) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 20:54:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] British car show in Louisville, Ky Message-ID: <00f201c8945c$117c25b0$0201a8c0@home9cmfx9peca> The featured marque of the 24th annual British Bash car show in Louisville, Ky is Austin Healey. There are 33 classes. Preregister by May 3rd and save. Check out the website photos and the online regisitration! www.britishbash.com See you in Louisville on June 6th & 7th. Thanks, British Sports Car Club of Louisville, Ky '08 Bash coordinator Craig Holmes cbhlouky at bellsouth.net From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 1 18:30:51 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 21:30:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear fender stay Message-ID: <005c01c89461$308a7ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I don't know if I can find but one of my fender stays (wing stay?). I might have lost the other one (if anyone has an extra one lying around...). But my real question tonight is how this fender stay is attached and where relative to the rear fender? The manual doesn't say and the Moss Catalog only shows one outside the rear fender and doesn't say how it goes. But, it proably is put in close to the taillight. If you've forgotten what this is...it's for attaching the rear wing/fender. It's a piece of steel about 3-4 inches long and 1/2" wide and holds a captured nut. One is required per rear fender and I've only managed to find one of mine. P.S.- selling one to me is fine also... Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 264 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From mlang99 at comcast.net Tue Apr 1 19:14:23 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2008 19:14:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear fender stay In-Reply-To: <005c01c89461$308a7ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <005c01c89461$308a7ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <47F2EBFF.6020006@comcast.net> Paul, There should be an angle bracket spot welded to the inside lower edge of the rear wing just behind the tire. There should be a matching bracket sticking out from the frame behind the tire. The rear wing stay bolts between these two brackets and keeps the lower edge of the wing from flapping back and forth. One of the brackets was missing from mine so I had to fabricate one and plug weld it in place. Mike dorpaul wrote: > I don't know if I can find but one of my fender stays (wing stay?). I might > have lost the other one (if anyone has an extra one lying around...). But my > real question tonight is how this fender stay is attached and where relative > to the rear fender? The manual doesn't say and the Moss Catalog only shows > one outside the rear fender and doesn't say how it goes. But, it proably is > put in close to the taillight. > If you've forgotten what this is...it's for attaching the rear > wing/fender. It's a piece of steel about 3-4 inches long and 1/2" wide and > holds a captured nut. One is required per rear fender and I've only managed > to find one of mine. > P.S.- selling one to me is fine also... > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3A From wbeech at flash.net Tue Apr 1 20:14:27 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 21:14:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear fender stay In-Reply-To: <005c01c89461$308a7ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <005c01c89461$308a7ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <003101c8946f$aa2e4960$6401a8c0@sniffer> Paul, There should be a tab on the inside rear portion of the wheel well, it does show in the Moss catalog but it is so tiny that you would not notice it unless you knew just where to look. You stay runs from here to the tab on the frame, if you are looking at the Moss catalog you will see the tab just in front of the rear leaf-spring shackle mounting. Sorry, don't have an extra one for you, you can get one from Moss or make a copy from the one that you have. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 7:31 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] TR3 rear fender stay I don't know if I can find but one of my fender stays (wing stay?). I might have lost the other one (if anyone has an extra one lying around...). But my real question tonight is how this fender stay is attached and where relative to the rear fender? The manual doesn't say and the Moss Catalog only shows one outside the rear fender and doesn't say how it goes. But, it proably is put in close to the taillight. If you've forgotten what this is...it's for attaching the rear wing/fender. It's a piece of steel about 3-4 inches long and 1/2" wide and holds a captured nut. One is required per rear fender and I've only managed to find one of mine. P.S.- selling one to me is fine also... Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 264 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Apr 2 04:47:13 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 07:47:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear fender stay In-Reply-To: <005c01c89461$308a7ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <005c01c89461$308a7ce0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Here's a question for the "originality police" - how is the stay finished? Body color? Frame Color? Natural? something else? Carl TS81802LO coming back together --- Sssslllloooowwwwllllyyyy ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:30 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 rear fender stay >I don't know if I can find but one of my fender stays (wing stay?). I >might > have lost the other one (if anyone has an extra one lying around...). But > my > real question tonight is how this fender stay is attached and where > relative > to the rear fender? The manual doesn't say and the Moss Catalog only > shows > one outside the rear fender and doesn't say how it goes. But, it proably > is > put in close to the taillight. > If you've forgotten what this is...it's for attaching the rear > wing/fender. It's a piece of steel about 3-4 inches long and 1/2" wide > and > holds a captured nut. One is required per rear fender and I've only > managed > to find one of mine. > P.S.- selling one to me is fine > also... > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3A > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. > It has removed 264 spam emails to date. > Paying users do not have this message in their emails. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From kentshrack at yahoo.com Wed Apr 2 06:24:36 2008 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 06:24:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 rear fender stay In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <522186.84367.qm@web57810.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I think Paul was talking about the small bracket, that goes up under the fender near the tail light that has a captive nut. Some on the list are talking about the fender bracket that goes from the frame to the bottom of the fender behind the rear wheel. Two brackets that are completely different. I don't know the color of either. On mine, the one up under the back for the fender near the tail light is body color. The strap on the bottom from the frame to the fender is, or was, cadnium plated as I bought new ones. The original ones on my car, one of which was broken, were both rusty with road tar. Carl TR wrote: Here's a question for the "originality police" - how is the stay finished? Body color? Frame Color? Natural? something else? Carl TS81802LO coming back together --- Sssslllloooowwwwllllyyyy ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:30 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 rear fender stay >I don't know if I can find but one of my fender stays (wing stay?). I >might > have lost the other one (if anyone has an extra one lying around...). But > my > real question tonight is how this fender stay is attached and where > relative > to the rear fender? The manual doesn't say and the Moss Catalog only > shows > one outside the rear fender and doesn't say how it goes. But, it proably > is > put in close to the taillight. > If you've forgotten what this is...it's for attaching the rear > wing/fender. It's a piece of steel about 3-4 inches long and 1/2" wide > and > holds a captured nut. One is required per rear fender and I've only > managed > to find one of mine. > P.S.- selling one to me is fine > also... > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3A > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. > It has removed 264 spam emails to date. > Paying users do not have this message in their emails. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as kentshrack at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive --------------------------------- You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Apr 2 14:13:32 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 17:13:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' Message-ID: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I found my copy of this great booklet by Bob Schaller (or maybe it was just compiled by him and actually from fellow TR2-4 owners). It's titled: 'More BS About TR's' I think the date on it is 1987 and it is 30 pages chunk full of 'experience owners giving technical information, ideas, substitutions, etc.' It comes with a useful 'table of contents'. I don't know if it is currently available anywhere. I got mine thru "FT" and I think it was $6. If I could obtain permission to reprint it, I'd photocopy it and mail it to ANY listee's BECAUSE THEY'VE GIVEN ME SO MUCH!!!! I'd have to make it available at the same price (maybe less), so Bob wouldn't think I was trying to profit off his work!! If I can obtain Bob Schaller's permission (if he's alive) then I'll do it. I don't think it says 'copyright' anywhere on it. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 264 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From BearTranserv at aol.com Wed Apr 2 14:33:18 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 17:33:18 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Assorted Fastener Questions Message-ID: In a message dated 3/28/2008 2:32:05 PM Mountain Daylight Time, N197TR4 at cs.com writes: I have done away with lock washers and use Loc-Tite. (so has a major tractor manufacturer following an extensive study) Kubota? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Wed Apr 2 15:02:33 2008 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:02:33 +0100 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Assorted Fastener Questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47F40279.1040708@virgin.net> Years ago I removed every lock washer and Loc-tited everything on an under powered Ford Escort rally car to save weight. Using the idea that less weight more speed. I estimated about 25 kilos saved. My results were still quite useless but the theory was there. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK BearTranserv at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 3/28/2008 2:32:05 PM Mountain Daylight Time, > N197TR4 at cs.com writes: > > I have done away with lock washers and use Loc-Tite. (so has a major > tractor > manufacturer following an extensive study) > > > > Kubota? > > Robert B. Houston > Texan in New Mexico > > 63 TR4 > > As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg > carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, > perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced > hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and > adjusted as > described in chapter seven of the shop manual. > Dan McKay > > > > > > > > **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. > (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dixie4.wales at virgin.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 2 15:26:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 15:26:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Assorted Fastener Questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1dc701c89510$8c913100$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > N197TR4 at cs.com writes: >> I have done away with lock washers and use Loc-Tite. (so has a major >> tractor manufacturer following an extensive study) > Kubota? Pretty sure Joe is referring to my current employer, John Deere. I don't know any details, but I would guess that it wasn't quite as simple as just putting a few drops of Loctite on _all_ existing fasteners; more a case of doing all new designs without lockwashers. At least that's the way it went in my little sub-company of NavCom. But we also do things like seal custom electronics into welded housings, so the entire unit must be discarded if a $.02 resistor fails, so what's good for Deere may not necessarily be good for the country Joe, do you still use Loctite on things like exhaust manifold bolts ? I always thought it didn't work well at high temperatures ... Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 2 15:29:59 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 15:29:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' In-Reply-To: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <1dce01c89511$162eaf00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I don't know if it is currently available anywhere. $17 @ TRF. P/N RFP128. Now if someone had the earlier "BS on TRs"; I'd sure like a copy of that ! Bob Schaller has unfortunately passed away, but since he used to hand these out at Triumph gatherings, I doubt there would be any problem with copyright. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Apr 2 15:49:36 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 18:49:36 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Assorted Fastener Questions Message-ID: In a message dated 4/2/2008 5:26:31 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Joe, do you still use Loctite on things like exhaust manifold bolts ? I > always thought it didn't work well at high temperatures ... > That would be about as effective as using nylocks. Heat is a common method of getting locktighted fasteners back apart. I've had to resort to that on a couple occasions. Maybe that's one of the "redesign" fastening methods, use a clamp of some sort where the threaded fasteners is not subjected to the full heat. Dave From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Apr 2 15:59:14 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 17:59:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] bell exhaust system Message-ID: <200804021759.14165.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hello, I am looking for US parts suppliers who can get a Bell Stainless exhaust system for my TR3A. The system comes complete with head pipe center and rear mufflers and is the best fitting system I have ever installed. I managed to get one from Wishbone Classics for my 4 but they currently dont answer my emails. Not sure if they are still in business. Tried google and various suppliers web pages but cant find any who handle the Bell. Most either handle the Falcon or the Monza. Once in awhile they appear on Ebay, but nothing current. I am located in central NY. Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Apr 2 16:16:41 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 18:16:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] bell exhaust system In-Reply-To: <47F416B3.6020009@dfn.com> References: <200804021759.14165.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <47F416B3.6020009@dfn.com> Message-ID: <200804021816.41356.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 02 April 2008 06:28 pm, Michael Porter wrote: > Bob Labuz wrote: > > Hello, > > > > I am looking for US parts suppliers who can get a Bell Stainless exhaust > > system for my TR3A. The system comes complete with head pipe center and > > rear mufflers and is the best fitting system I have ever installed. > > > > I managed to get one from Wishbone Classics for my 4 but they currently > > dont answer my emails. Not sure if they are still in business. > > > > Tried google and various suppliers web pages but cant find any who handle > > the Bell. Most either handle the Falcon or the Monza. > > Bob, what about these guys: > > > http://www.vintageimportsinc.com/bellexhaust.htm > > > Don't know anything about them, but they do seem to carry what you want. > > > Cheers. Michael, Thanks for the link. They are located in Ohio. I will send them an email . Bob From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Apr 2 17:05:07 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 18:05:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] TTA Stag Restoration Photos! Message-ID: <47F41F33.1080605@tscusa.org> Hi All, Have a look at the TTA web site for new photos!! aka, Stag is now in pieces after only three weekends since it's purchase! http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ Great Work STTAG Restoration teams! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From N197TR4 at cs.com Wed Apr 2 17:13:08 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 20:13:08 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] TTA Stag Restoration Photos! Message-ID: ISOA Rules! It's that Midwest Work Ethic. Joe A > Hi All, > Have a look at the TTA web site for new photos!! > > aka, Stag is now in pieces after only three weekends since it's purchase! > > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ > > Great Work STTAG Restoration teams! > From agraham at execulink.com Wed Apr 2 17:35:13 2008 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 20:35:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr2/3 rear-end ratios Message-ID: <200804030039.m330dbVk004452@smtp2.execulink.net> Hello List: Can anyone recollect if the rear-end ratios for o/d and non-o/d cars in the TR2/3 range were the same? I'm aware that different ratios were available, but am not sure if all o/d cars had lower ratio axles. Also, what is the recommended procedure for determining the ratio of a rear-end? So many turns of the pinion resulting in a complete revolution of the axle? Contemplating changing the fragile rear axle (Lockheed) of the TR2. Have a 3A rear end, but want to make sure the axle ratios are the same. Have an o/d in the TR2. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 2 17:59:22 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 17:59:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr2/3 rear-end ratios In-Reply-To: <200804030039.m330dbVk004452@smtp2.execulink.net> References: <200804030039.m330dbVk004452@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: <1e3901c89525$f46bc050$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Can anyone recollect if the rear-end ratios for o/d and non-o/d cars > in the TR2/3 range were the same? I'm aware that different ratios > were available, but am not sure if all o/d cars had lower ratio axles. The vast majority of OD cars had the same 3.7 ratio as the non-OD cars. > Also, what is the recommended procedure for determining the ratio of > a rear-end? So many turns of the pinion resulting in a complete > revolution of the axle? Yes, but I like to go 10 (or 20 if one side is locked) turns of the wheel/axle. Otherwise, it can be a bit hard to tell 3.7 turns from 4.1 (or 3.45) turns. Another method is to remove the cover and count the teeth on the ring gear. 37 teeth = 3.7 ratio; 41 teeth = 4.1. Don't recall the number for the 3.45 ratio offhand, but I think it's 38 (11 tooth pinion). Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 2 18:02:05 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 18:02:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr2/3 rear-end ratios References: <200804030039.m330dbVk004452@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: <1e3a01c89526$55c1f6d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Don't > recall the number for the 3.45 ratio offhand, but I think > it's 38 (11 tooth pinion). Oops, forgot to mention that AFAIK the 3.45 gears were never originally fitted to the TR2-4A. However, the 3.45 gearsets from the PI TR5-6 (and various other Triumphs) will fit, so might be found in a TR3/A axle. I was planning on doing that myself, before the car got wrecked, to make up for the short tires I used. Randall From stonywoods840 at rochester.rr.com Wed Apr 2 19:22:44 2008 From: stonywoods840 at rochester.rr.com (Larry Rausch) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 21:22:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 gas line Message-ID: <000a01c89531$9a385ba0$1a02a8c0@larry> there is a small metal clip with a rubber insert that holds the gas line in place as it passes infront on the engine and below the water pump where is this clip attached? Thanks larry No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.4/1355 - Release Date: 4/1/2008 5:37 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 2 19:37:52 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 19:37:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 gas line In-Reply-To: <000a01c89531$9a385ba0$1a02a8c0@larry> References: <000a01c89531$9a385ba0$1a02a8c0@larry> Message-ID: <1e7f01c89533$b73391a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > there is a small metal clip with a rubber insert that holds > the gas line > in place as it passes infront on the engine and below the water pump > where is this clip attached? Under the nut on the lower stud of the thermostat cover. Randall From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Wed Apr 2 19:40:58 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 22:40:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 gas line In-Reply-To: <000a01c89531$9a385ba0$1a02a8c0@larry> References: <000a01c89531$9a385ba0$1a02a8c0@larry> Message-ID: <002701c89534$25ef58e0$a2423b47@Scott> Larry: It is secured by the lower, right bolt of the thermostat cover. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR# -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Rausch Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 10:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 gas line there is a small metal clip with a rubber insert that holds the gas line in place as it passes infront on the engine and below the water pump where is this clip attached? Thanks larry From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Wed Apr 2 19:44:16 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 22:44:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: TR3 rear fender stay Message-ID: <002d01c89534$9c0dfea0$a2423b47@Scott> Sorry, this didn't make it to the list. Kent: Yes, this is the one that Paul is referring to. The one end bolts into the stiffening panel (item #19, page 67 of Moss catalog) caged nut. What I am not clear of is how does the other end that is bent at a right angle fit to the fender? Scott Suring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kent Shrack Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 9:25 AM To: Carl TR; dorpaul; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 rear fender stay I think Paul was talking about the small bracket, that goes up under the fender near the tail light that has a captive nut. Some on the list are talking about the fender bracket that goes from the frame to the bottom of the fender behind the rear wheel. Two brackets that are completely different. I don't know the color of either. On mine, the one up under the back for the fender near the tail light is body color. The strap on the bottom from the frame to the fender is, or was, cadnium plated as I bought new ones. The original ones on my car, one of which was broken, were both rusty with road tar. From wbeech at flash.net Wed Apr 2 20:38:08 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 21:38:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' In-Reply-To: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <000c01c8953c$23661c50$6401a8c0@sniffer> Paul, My copy is stamped "Schaller Engineering, 12021 N 30th Pl, Phoenix, AZ 85028, (602) 992-7969" I'm sure he would not mind your contacting him. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 3:14 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' I found my copy of this great booklet by Bob Schaller (or maybe it was just compiled by him and actually from fellow TR2-4 owners). It's titled: 'More BS About TR's' I think the date on it is 1987 and it is 30 pages chunk full of 'experience owners giving technical information, ideas, substitutions, etc.' It comes with a useful 'table of contents'. I don't know if it is currently available anywhere. I got mine thru "FT" and I think it was $6. If I could obtain permission to reprint it, I'd photocopy it and mail it to ANY listee's BECAUSE THEY'VE GIVEN ME SO MUCH!!!! I'd have to make it available at the same price (maybe less), so Bob wouldn't think I was trying to profit off his work!! If I can obtain Bob Schaller's permission (if he's alive) then I'll do it. I don't think it says 'copyright' anywhere on it. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 264 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Apr 2 22:08:49 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 22:08:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 gas line In-Reply-To: <000a01c89531$9a385ba0$1a02a8c0@larry> References: <000a01c89531$9a385ba0$1a02a8c0@larry> Message-ID: To a thermostat housing bolt ... >there is a small metal clip with a rubber insert that holds the gas line >in place as it passes infront on the engine and below the water pump >where is this clip attached? Thanks larry > -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 2 23:53:42 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 22:53:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] FW: TR3 rear fender stay In-Reply-To: <002d01c89534$9c0dfea0$a2423b47@Scott> Message-ID: <20080403055406.REDZ10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > Yes, this is the one that Paul is referring to. The one end > bolts into the stiffening panel (item #19, page 67 of Moss > catalog) caged nut. What I am not clear of is how does the > other end that is bent at a right angle fit to the fender? Are you guys possibly talking about P/N 602167, "Clamp, rear wing fixing" ?? This is a short strip of metal, about 1/2" wide and 3-1/2" long with a captive nut at one end, and a sharp right angle at the other end. The angled part is no more than 1/4". It doesn't really connect to anything; the captive nut gets the rearmost truss-headed screw from the trunk lid opening, while the angle presses against the lip of the rear fender at the very back. It basically clamps the last little bit of the fender to the rear apron. http://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR2TR3/33.php?s_wt=1680&s_ht=1050 Randall From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 3 03:08:37 2008 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 03:08:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' In-Reply-To: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <463530.31197.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi All; "More BS About TRs" is for sale at TRF. The part number is RFP128. In their description it says that the author is now deceased. I bought my copy there several years ago. John Young --- dorpaul wrote: > I found my copy of this great booklet by Bob > Schaller (or maybe it was just > compiled by him and actually from fellow TR2-4 > owners). It's titled: 'More BS > About TR's' I think the date on it is 1987 and it > is 30 pages chunk full of > 'experience owners giving technical information, > ideas, substitutions, etc.' > It comes with a useful 'table of contents'. > > I don't know if it is currently available anywhere. > I got mine thru "FT" and > I think it was $6. > > If I could obtain permission to reprint it, I'd > photocopy it and mail it to > ANY listee's BECAUSE THEY'VE GIVEN ME SO MUCH!!!! > I'd have to make it > available at the same price (maybe less), so Bob > wouldn't think I was trying > to profit off his work!! > > If I can obtain Bob Schaller's permission (if he's > alive) then I'll do it. I > don't think it says 'copyright' anywhere on it. > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 > John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (needs body work) '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway. From DLylis at aol.com Thu Apr 3 04:25:35 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 07:25:35 EDT Subject: [TR] FW: TR3 rear fender stay Message-ID: Interesting. As I move closer to reassembly I have "dry mounted" my rear fenders and find no such piece, or provision for it. The rear most machine screw in the boot opening has a captive nut that is welded to the inner lip of the outer fender. It is (was) elongated to allow for lateral movement of the nut fore and aft. Could these have been eliminated in later cars? The lower stay is there as illustrated. Had you guys not brought this up I would have assembled without a thought. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From DLylis at aol.com Thu Apr 3 04:40:59 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 07:40:59 EDT Subject: [TR] FW: TR3 rear fender stay UPDATED Message-ID: Upon closer inspection it appears that the captive nut may have been added later and the stay eliminated. The welds for the captive don't match. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 3 05:33:55 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 08:33:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' In-Reply-To: <000c01c8953c$23661c50$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <000c01c8953c$23661c50$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: > Paul,> > My copy is stamped "Schaller Engineering, 12021 N 30th Pl, Phoenix, AZ> 85028, (602) 992-7969" I'm sure he would> not mind your contacting him. > > Bill B Better schedule a siance. John H. From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 3 05:36:15 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 08:36:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' In-Reply-To: References: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <000c01c8953c$23661c50$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: > > Paul,> > My copy is stamped "Schaller Engineering, 12021 N 30th Pl, Phoenix,> AZ> 85028, (602) 992-7969" I'm sure he would> not mind your contacting him. >> > Bill B> Better schedule a siance.> > John H. Hmmm... My acute e became an i somehow. Joke's on me. John From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Apr 3 06:02:44 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2008 09:02:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' References: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <000c01c8953c$23661c50$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <000401c8958b$02446a50$fb157247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Bob Schaller passed away a few years back. "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: "wbeech" To: "'dorpaul'" ; "'list Triumph'" Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 11:38 PM Subject: Re: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' > Paul, > > My copy is stamped "Schaller Engineering, 12021 N 30th Pl, Phoenix, AZ > 85028, (602) 992-7969" I'm sure he would > not mind your contacting him. > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > dorpaul > Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 3:14 PM > To: list Triumph > Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' > > I found my copy of this great booklet by Bob Schaller (or maybe it was > just > compiled by him and actually from fellow TR2-4 owners). It's titled: > 'More > BS > About TR's' I think the date on it is 1987 and it is 30 pages chunk full > of > 'experience owners giving technical information, ideas, substitutions, > etc.' > It comes with a useful 'table of contents'. > > I don't know if it is currently available anywhere. I got mine thru "FT" > and I think it was $6. > > If I could obtain permission to reprint it, I'd photocopy it and mail it > to > ANY listee's BECAUSE THEY'VE GIVEN ME SO MUCH!!!! I'd have to make it > available at the same price (maybe less), so Bob wouldn't think I was > trying > to profit off his work!! > > If I can obtain Bob Schaller's permission (if he's alive) then I'll do it. > I don't think it says 'copyright' anywhere on it. > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. > It has removed 264 spam emails to date. > Paying users do not have this message in their emails. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Apr 3 06:15:27 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 09:15:27 EDT Subject: [TR] A few things Triumph List Related Message-ID: LOCKWASHERS & LOCTITE: John Deere eliminated a lot of lockwashers. I really dont know the study in detail, but it gave me cause to eliminate them. I am glad I did. Loctite usually goes with internal engine and driveline components. (Randall, I dont use Loctite on most external engine components) Over 40 years of Triumphs has allowed me to make most of the mistakes that one can make, which gives me EXPERIENCE. (Lack of a Nylock Nut on my carb linkage had me leaping over a fence at Turn Five, looking for a nut. I did find a piece of wire and avoided the Dreaded Tow.) PAUL DORSEY: I have been meaning to ask Paul if he would able to bring his TR3A project to the Convention (NATC) as a 'restoration in process'. That way everyone could meet Paul and assess his project. My contribution has been modest, and there must be more stuff he can use. Perhaps there could be wrenching session planned. Paul has his heart & soul in this project...just a thought. I know it requires logistics and lodging and all of that. B.S. SCHALLER: He is another one of those guys I didnt get to meet and wish I had. ROBERT B HOUSTON: KUBOTA? Bad guess, since Robert knows I retired from John Deere.....but he may have been pulling my chain. :-) Back to work....on five Triumph Projects. There are four in one garage and one in Laramie. So much for retirement. Joe A From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 3 07:28:42 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 14:28:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] Exhaust weldiong. In-Reply-To: <1dc701c89510$8c913100$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <1dc701c89510$8c913100$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Hi List, I am hanging new exhaust on my car. I have decided to use "V-clamps" as connectors between the butt ends of the pipes. These require welding a stainless steel ring onto the end of the pipe. I am wondering if I could reliable install these rings with JB Weld instead of trying to weld the stainless to mild steel? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Pack up or back upuse SkyDrive to transfer files or keep extra copies. Learn how. hthttp://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh _skydrive_packup_042008 From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Apr 3 07:44:25 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 10:44:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Exhaust weldiong. References: <1dc701c89510$8c913100$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <001301c89599$36e4fa50$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> JB Weld wouldn't be my choice. ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 10:28 AM Subject: [TR] Exhaust weldiong. > Hi List, > > I am hanging new exhaust on my car. I have decided to use "V-clamps" as > connectors between the butt ends of the pipes. These require welding a > stainless steel ring onto the end of the pipe. I am wondering if I could > reliable install these rings with JB Weld instead of trying to weld the > stainless to mild steel? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 3 08:52:20 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 07:52:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] Exhaust weldiong. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080403145217.MKRY680.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > I am wondering if I could reliable install these > rings with JB Weld instead of trying to weld the stainless to > mild steel? According to http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php "Not recommended for use on manifolds, exhaust systems ..." And although they say it "withstands" temperatures to 500F, my experience is that it loses much of it's strength below that point. Randall From agraham at execulink.com Thu Apr 3 08:13:49 2008 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2008 11:13:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] 9" vs. 10" brakes Message-ID: <200804031518.m33FICGH021466@smtp2.execulink.net> Hello List: Any thoughts on the advantages of fitting 9" rear brakes on a Girling axle that previously had 10" brakes? Again, contemplating the installation of a later Girling axle into the TR2 and wondering if it would be advantageous to fit the later 9" brakes at this point. (Cheaper shoes, alloy finned drums). What about the size of the rear cylinders for the later 9" brakes? Any issue here or will either size of cylinder work well, provided they are the same on both sides? Thanks in advance for any help or accounts of previous experiences. Angelo Graham From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Apr 3 08:17:39 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 11:17:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Anti-seize & Exhaust Message-ID: <000801c8959d$dcd2dd70$210110ac@bobspc> The copper anti-seize says it's good to 2000 degrees so has anyone used it on their exhaust pipes where they slide (and stick) together? Or would it get too messy and stink? It's always such a struggle to separate pipes so would that help or be a bad idea? Thanks Bob.....almost ready to start her back up again. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From JStasyszen at odmhsas.org Thu Apr 3 08:27:05 2008 From: JStasyszen at odmhsas.org (Stasyszen, Jerry) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 10:27:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Exhaust weldiong. In-Reply-To: References: <1dc701c89510$8c913100$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: GM has an adhesive that is used in place of welding. I have not used it but others on this forum have. My understanding is that it is quite effective Jerry Stasyszen OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net 76 Spitfire -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jstasyszen=odmhsas.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jstasyszen=odmhsas.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 9:29 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Exhaust weldiong. Hi List, I am hanging new exhaust on my car. I have decided to use "V-clamps" as connectors between the butt ends of the pipes. These require welding a stainless steel ring onto the end of the pipe. I am wondering if I could reliable install these rings with JB Weld instead of trying to weld the stainless to mild steel? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Pack up or back upuse SkyDrive to transfer files or keep extra copies. Learn how. hthttp://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh _skydrive_packup_042008 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jstasyszen at odmhsas.org http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 3 09:55:58 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 08:55:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] Anti-seize & Exhaust In-Reply-To: <000801c8959d$dcd2dd70$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080403155537.CCHF1365.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > The copper anti-seize says it's good to 2000 degrees so has > anyone used it on their exhaust pipes where they slide (and > stick) together? I do, seems to help. > Or would it get too messy and stink? Stinks just a little at first, while the oil carrier burns off. But not much and not long. Randall From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Apr 3 09:05:18 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 12:05:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Anti-seize & Exhaust In-Reply-To: References: <000801c8959d$dcd2dd70$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: On Thu, 3 Apr 2008, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Bob: > > I would think that copper anti-seize would not be of much use. > The exhaust pipes are reluctant to separate because the metal has been > swaged (compressed) and necked down in the vicinity of the pipe clamp. > Pulling the pipes apart requires stretching the metal on the outer pipe > back to its original diameter, which is not going to be easy no matter > what. It's easy to get 'em apart with THE BLUE WRENCH. :-) My fix for preventing all this stuff is metal flange joints everywhere. Using clamps on TR6 exhaust system is asking for trouble 'cause there's a lot of jobs that start with "remove muffler" or "remove intermediate pipe". > Vance regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Apr 3 09:22:05 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 12:22:05 EDT Subject: [TR] LATER AXLE Message-ID: Angelo, Both mods are likely desirable. I think the older axle had reliability issues. Either size wheel cylinder will work OK, methinks. On the other hand, you can have old 10" shoes relined for a reasonable price, if your drums are good. Mosport this year, Angelo? There will be several Triumph folks there. Joe A Hello List: Any thoughts on the advantages of fitting 9" rear brakes on a Girling axle that previously had 10" brakes? Again, contemplating the installation of a later Girling axle into the TR2 and wondering if it would be advantageous to fit the later 9" brakes at this point. (Cheaper shoes, alloy finned drums). What about the size of the rear cylinders for the later 9" brakes? Any issue here or will either size of cylinder work well, provided they are the same on both sides? Thanks in advance for any help or accounts of previous experiences. Angelo Graham From dkspence at telus.net Thu Apr 3 09:36:09 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 10:36:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A rear axle ratios In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Randall, anyone I have a solid axle 4A , no original OD in which I plan to install an A type OD trans . This discussion re the TR3 axel ratio has me wondering if I will have to swap difs as well? What do toy think? TIA Don On 2-Apr-08, at 10:36 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Oops, forgot to mention that AFAIK the 3.45 gears were never > originally > fitted to the TR2-4A. However, the 3.45 gearsets from the PI TR5-6 > (and > various other Triumphs) will fit, so might be found in a TR3/A > axle. I was > planning on doing that myself, before the car got wrecked, to make > up for > the short tires I used. > > Randall From npaul72464 at aol.com Thu Apr 3 09:59:48 2008 From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2008 12:59:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Exhaust weldiong. In-Reply-To: <001301c89599$36e4fa50$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> References: <1dc701c89510$8c913100$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <001301c89599$36e4fa50$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <8CA63C34230AAD0-1054-1534@WEBMAIL-MC17.sysops.aol.com> I used to have an MGB as my only car and kept pulling off the muffler as I hit driveways, etc.? So, I had the pipes just welded together without clamps.? Worked great. Ned Paulsen 58 TR3 60 AH 3000 -----Original Message----- From: Nolan To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 10:44 am Subject: Re: [TR] Exhaust weldiong. JB Weld wouldn't be my choice. ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 10:28 AM Subject: [TR] Exhaust weldiong. > Hi List, > > I am hanging new exhaust on my car. I have decided to use "V-clamps" as > connectors between the butt ends of the pipes. These require welding a > stainless steel ring onto the end of the pipe. I am wondering if I could > reliable install these rings with JB Weld instead of trying to weld the > stainless to mild steel? This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as npaul72464 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Apr 3 10:31:34 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2008 17:31:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] 9" vs. 10" brakes Message-ID: <040320081731.8696.47F51475000DEF20000021F822007348400B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> I think most people would advocate switching to 9" drums if going through the effort of a restoration. It used to be thought that greater surface area equated to better braking, but my underastanding is there is no advantage of the 10" set up (he says, waiting for Randall to point out an obvious omission) Andrew Uprichard -------------- Original message -------------- From: Angelo Graham > Hello List: > Any thoughts on the advantages of fitting 9" rear brakes on a Girling > axle that previously had 10" brakes? Again, contemplating the > installation of a later Girling axle into the TR2 and wondering if it > would be advantageous to fit the later 9" brakes at this point. > (Cheaper shoes, alloy finned drums). What about the size of the rear > cylinders for the later 9" brakes? Any issue here or will either size > of cylinder work well, provided they are the same on both sides? > Thanks in advance for any help or accounts of previous experiences. > > Angelo Graham > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 3 11:09:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 11:09:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A rear axle ratios In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200f01c895b5$e1daa100$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I have a solid axle 4A , no original OD in which I plan to > install an A type OD trans . This discussion re the TR3 axel > ratio has me wondering if I will have to swap difs as well? > What do toy think? You certainly don't have to, Don. And I wouldn't recommend it, unless you are planning on racing the car or making other modifications. The standard 3.70 axle plus OD is a good combination, IMO. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 3 11:35:37 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 11:35:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] 9" vs. 10" brakes In-Reply-To: <040320081731.8696.47F51475000DEF20000021F822007348400B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> References: <040320081731.8696.47F51475000DEF20000021F822007348400B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <201301c895b9$82bf90a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > (he says, waiting for Randall to point out an obvious omission) Not really. The 10" brakes do provide somewhat more stopping power (as well as resistance to overheating), but that's exactly why the factory switched to the 9", because they had trouble with the 10" brakes locking up too soon. When TS39781LO came to me, it had already been converted to 9" rear brakes; but my previous TR3A still had it's 10" brakes. There was some difference in front/rear balance, but IMO not enough to argue over. And the one time I (deliberately) overheated the brakes, it was the front discs that faded away first. However, I would definitely use the largest (3/4") cylinders with the 9" drums. Some folks source even larger cylinders (7/8" from a Morgan I think) to get more stopping in the rear with 9" drums. Oddly enough, I see Moss now has the 10" drums listed (in cast iron) for $100 each, while the 9" drums are N/A. And while new 10" shoes are more expensive ($70/set from TRF), they will also last a long time (longer than the 9"). Plus you can get original shoes relined for less cost; $50 for 'Kevlar' linings at TSi or $25 for 'standard' linings at my FLAPS (last time I checked). So I'm going to keep the 10" brakes on TS13571L, just because it doesn't seem worth the effort to switch. Doesn't mean I think it's wrong to convert, just means I'm lazy Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 3 11:46:30 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 11:46:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Anti-seize & Exhaust In-Reply-To: References: <000801c8959d$dcd2dd70$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <201701c895bb$08daa930$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > My fix for preventing all this stuff is metal flange joints > everywhere. So where do you get the flanges ? Speaking of which, my Chevy had an interesting joint in front of the cat, with spring-loaded bolts and a donut-shaped, graphite impregnated gasket, that allowed for relative movement as the engine torqued around on it's mounts, without forcing the rest of the exhaust to twist and bend with it. I'd love to have a pair of those on the Stag but neither my GM dealer nor my local muffler shop know where to get them ... anyone seen anything like that ? Randall From peter at nosimport.com Thu Apr 3 12:02:01 2008 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2008 14:02:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Anti-seize & Exhaust In-Reply-To: <201701c895bb$08daa930$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <000801c8959d$dcd2dd70$210110ac@bobspc> <201701c895bb$08daa930$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080403140026.03a0ec20@nosimport.com> Randall, Most of the newer front wheel drive cars use them. Walk around under a junk yard. It'll take some cutting and welding to fit them to a Stag. Peter C. ==== At 01:46 PM 4/3/2008, Randall wrote: > > My fix for preventing all this stuff is metal flange joints > > everywhere. > >So where do you get the flanges ? > >Speaking of which, my Chevy had an interesting joint in front of the cat, >with spring-loaded bolts and a donut-shaped, graphite impregnated gasket, >that allowed for relative movement as the engine torqued around on it's >mounts, without forcing the rest of the exhaust to twist and bend with it. >I'd love to have a pair of those on the Stag but neither my GM dealer nor my >local muffler shop know where to get them ... anyone seen anything like that >? > >Randall From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Apr 3 12:54:03 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 15:54:03 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Assorted Fastener Questions Message-ID: In a message dated 4/2/2008 4:26:34 PM Mountain Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Pretty sure Joe is referring to my current employer, John Deere. I knew that. Deere used to be a customer of mine. I was just trying to get a rise out of him. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Apr 3 13:05:55 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 16:05:55 EDT Subject: [TR] A few things Triumph List Related Message-ID: In a message dated 4/3/2008 7:15:56 AM Mountain Daylight Time, N197TR4 at cs.com writes: I have been meaning to ask Paul if he would able to bring his TR3A project to the Convention (NATC) as a 'restoration in process'. That way everyone could meet Paul and assess his project. My contribution has been modest, and there must be more stuff he can use. Perhaps there could be wrenching session planned. Paul has his heart & soul in this project...just a thought. I know it requires logistics and lodging and all of that. I don't know how many of you subscribe to Practical Classics magazine from the UK, but a couple of issues ago it reported on a project I was involved in a little over a year ago. A group from the Spridget list (AH Sprite and MG Midget) all met for a long weekend in Anahiem, CA and completely assembled a list member's Bugeyed Sprite. He's had the paint and body work done, the engine rebuilt, and had boxes of labled parts standing by. It went from bare tub to finished car in two days. About 25 folks came from as far away as New Jersey and made it happen. This is a tough year for me as business is down and the boss expects me to do something about it, but I'd be up for a Triumph trip. The Spridget team goes by OSHIT, Organization of Spridget Handymen In Transit. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Apr 3 13:07:25 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 16:07:25 EDT Subject: [TR] Exhaust weldiong. Message-ID: In a message dated 4/3/2008 8:28:58 AM Mountain Daylight Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: I am wondering if I could reliable install these rings with JB Weld instead of trying to weld the stainless to mild steel? The Monza dual tip has been holding on my Midget muffler for a couple of years now with JB Weld. YMMV Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Apr 3 14:26:18 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2008 17:26:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] cleaning the GT6 exhaust Message-ID: <47F5133A.6056.1E4E59F0@localhost> Yay, spring is here! I took the GT6 to work yesterday and today. This year I'd like to get its idle exhaust cleaner. I've tried tweaking the carbs and the timing, but nothing helps much. So I wondered about running a lower octane gas, figuring it would burn more completely. Yesterday I tried some 89 instead of 92. I can't say I detect it pinging under throttle. It does seem to idle with less burbling. I can't tell if the exahust smells better because it has been so windy here these two days. Today I had reason to take a high-speed highway run to the office. When I shut it down it dieseled once over, something it has never done before. What I haven't tried yet is pull the timing back. Frankly, I've tried setting the timing all over the map and it seems happier set a bit earlier than the spec calls for, but it doesn't seem to run any cleaner no matter where I set it. So I'm open to suggestions, comments, even insults if it would help. Tanks in advance! Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From wbeech at flash.net Thu Apr 3 14:37:37 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 15:37:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges Rebuilt Message-ID: <002f01c895d2$f19da390$6401a8c0@sniffer> Just a follow-up to a thread from a couple of months back. On 02/01/08 I shipped all six of my TR instruments off to West Valley Auto Electronics in Reseda, CA. Today I got them back, seven weeks to turn them around. They look great, everything restored to 'like new' he even added to go behind the bezels at n/c. Morris at WVAE was very easy to talk to and took extra time on the phone to explain just what needed to be done to each gauge. NFI, I would recommend them. Warranty is for one year, now if I can get the rest of the parts back and together for a little late 2008 driving! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 3 14:43:30 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 14:43:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] cleaning the GT6 exhaust In-Reply-To: <47F5133A.6056.1E4E59F0@localhost> References: <47F5133A.6056.1E4E59F0@localhost> Message-ID: <206801c895d3$c85a2c50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > This year I'd like to get its idle exhaust cleaner. In what way ? Less HC, CO, CO2 or NOx ? They are more-or-less contradictory goals, so it's important to know which one we're trying to change, IMO. As a very rough rule of thumb, high HC is usually ignition problems, while high CO is usually a mixture problem. But things like funky valve adjustment or timing can cause both of them. Little details like what emissions equipment it has might be helpful too ... Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Apr 3 14:57:29 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2008 17:57:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] cleaning the GT6 exhaust In-Reply-To: <206801c895d3$c85a2c50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <47F5133A.6056.1E4E59F0@localhost> Message-ID: <47F51A89.25385.1E6AE63A@localhost> Thanks for the quick reply, Randall. On 3 Apr 2008 at 14:43, Randall wrote: > Less HC, CO, CO2 or NOx ? Less HC, I think. > As a very rough rule of thumb, high HC is usually ignition > problems, while high CO is usually a mixture problem. But > things like funky valve adjustment or timing can cause both > of them. I try to keep the valves locked into spec. I have noticed that a change of just .001" seems to make a big difference, at least in how smoothly it idles. > Little details like what emissions equipment it has might > be helpful too ... Essentially none. The PCV valve is in place. Carbs are HS4 SU's with individual K&N air cleaners. That's what it's had since I bought it. As for my emission testing equipment, that's my nose. And the state of my clothes when I get to where I'm going after idling at enough stoplights. All very hi-tech equipment, you know. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 3 15:34:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 15:34:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] cleaning the GT6 exhaust In-Reply-To: <47F51A89.25385.1E6AE63A@localhost> References: <47F5133A.6056.1E4E59F0@localhost> <47F51A89.25385.1E6AE63A@localhost> Message-ID: <207d01c895da$ea66bd70$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I have noticed that a > change of just .001" seems to make a big difference, at least in how > smoothly it idles. That's odd. I've very little experience with the 6-pot Triumphs, but on my TR3 it takes at least .003-.004 to make any noticeable difference, and even then it's not much. > Carbs are HS4 SU's > with individual K&N air cleaners. That's what it's had since I > bought it. Hmmm. Any chance some previous owner has installed a performance cam ? They usually sacrifice idle quality for more high-end power. They also frequently require more valve lash than the stock cam does, which might explain why your engine is so picky about lash. > As for my emission testing equipment, that's my nose. And the state > of my clothes when I get to where I'm going after idling at enough > stoplights. All very hi-tech equipment, you know. Not much to work with, unfortunately. What happens if you go say, 1/2 turn leaner on both mixture nuts ? Or raise the idle rpm by 3-400 rpm. I assume you've tried fresh plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, points, condensor ... Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 3 15:57:51 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 18:57:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] rearmost pinching thing? Message-ID: <00c401c895de$25a6dcf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Yes, Randall, that's it! TRF shows it as p/n 602167, but, I can't find the Moss equivalent! (although I searched TR2-4 keywords, 'clamp', 'fixing','fender' and 'wing'.) I wonder if it can be installed 'after' the fender is mounted? But, with the Tires off! Does anyone have such a picture? I can't find but one, can somethin' else work? Paul Are you guys possibly talking about P/N 602167, "Clamp, rear wing fixing" ?? This is a short strip of metal, about 1/2" wide and 3-1/2" long with a captive nut at one end, and a sharp right angle at the other end. The angled part is no more than 1/4". It doesn't really connect to anything; the captive nut gets the rearmost truss-headed screw from the trunk lid opening, while the angle presses against the lip of the rear fender at the very back. It basically clamps the last little bit of the fender to the rear apron. http://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR2TR3/33.php?s_wt=1680&s_ht=1050 Randall -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 264 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Apr 3 16:18:13 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 16:18:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' In-Reply-To: <000401c8958b$02446a50$fb157247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><000c01c8953c$23661c50$6401a8c0@sniffer> <000401c8958b$02446a50$fb157247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <69ABCB72EE964493A59D796CC1DF79E0@GeoPC> I first met Bob more than 20 years ago when he drove across country from AZ to OH to attend the TRA National. He drove the distance in his TR3A pulling his TRailer (made out of the back half of a TR3). As I recall he had cut a large hole in the 3's grill to improve air flow to the radiator and oil cooler -- doing the modification roadside somewhere in Texas (it was a hot June). He also did some tech sessions at that TRA including one on overheating from which I took away many ideas that I still use now that I am in the desert. Before we had the internet and great lists like this, it was guys like Bob who did a lot to keep the hobby alive. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Bob-n-TRailer.JPG Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "FRED E THOMAS" To: "wbeech" ; "'dorpaul'" ; "'list Triumph'" Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 6:02 AM Subject: Re: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' > Bob Schaller passed away a few years back. "FT" From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 3 16:38:50 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 16:38:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] rearmost pinching thing? In-Reply-To: <00c401c895de$25a6dcf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00c401c895de$25a6dcf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20b101c895e3$dea94850$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > TRF shows it as p/n 602167, but, I can't find the > Moss equivalent! Believe it or not, there are a few things that have no Moss equivalent > I wonder if it can be installed 'after' the fender is > mounted? I believe so. > I can't find but one, can somethin' else work? For a whopping $4 (until June 30 2008), why not just buy one ? I doubt the clamp is essential, you could probably get away with just leaving it off (and putting an ordinary nut & flat washer on the bolt). No doubt I've got a few stashed somewhere, but for $4 it's hardly worth digging through the parts bins ... Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Apr 3 16:40:52 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2008 19:40:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] cleaning the GT6 exhaust In-Reply-To: <207d01c895da$ea66bd70$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <47F51A89.25385.1E6AE63A@localhost> Message-ID: <47F532C4.25087.1EC98B4B@localhost> On 3 Apr 2008 at 15:34, Randall wrote: > Any chance some previous owner has installed a performance cam ? Ahhhh, there is a pretty good chance. > They also frequently require more valve lash than the stock cam > does, which might explain why your engine is so picky about lash. So I have heard, now that you mention it. How much, I wonder? Hmm, ISTR that this was discussed a few months ago. > What happens if you go say, 1/2 turn leaner on both mixture nuts? Not much. If I go lean enough the engine dies, of course. Finding the sweet spot isn't easy. > Or raise the idle rpm by 3-400 rpm. The idle goes up. Otherwise not much interesting. > I assume you've tried fresh plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, > points, condensor Yeah. I don't think that's where the problem sits. The more I think about it, the more I think you're right about needing more valve lash. At least, if they were too tight nothing else could be dialed in easily after the engine warmed. It might also explain why it seems to like advanced timing. Thanks for the idea. I knew there was a reason to ask. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Apr 3 16:47:20 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2008 19:47:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges Rebuilt References: <002f01c895d2$f19da390$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <00b601c895e5$0f019330$fb157247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Sure am glad to hear of a good shop for this, Nissonger got me for $190.00 on a small T/R clock, never again for that shop, never "FT" ================================================================================================== > Just a follow-up to a thread from a couple of months back. > > On 02/01/08 I shipped all six of my TR instruments off to West Valley Auto > Electronics in Reseda, CA. Today I got them back, seven weeks to turn > them > around. They look great, everything restored to 'like new' he even added > to > go behind the bezels at n/c. Morris at WVAE was very easy to talk to and > took extra time on the phone to explain just what needed to be done to > each > gauge. > > NFI, I would recommend them. Warranty is for one year, now if I can get > the > rest of the parts back and together for a little late 2008 driving! > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From trglory at comcast.net Thu Apr 3 17:40:45 2008 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 20:40:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' In-Reply-To: <69ABCB72EE964493A59D796CC1DF79E0@GeoPC> References: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><000c01c8953c$23661c50$6401a8c0@sniffer> <000401c8958b$02446a50$fb157247@fred8kwiskhcfu> <69ABCB72EE964493A59D796CC1DF79E0@GeoPC> Message-ID: <014401c895ec$85925780$90b70680$@net> Geo; Thanks for sharing the picture. Bob was a gentleman engineer of the old school and a veritable encyclopedia of TR3 information. I had the good fortune to spend an evening with him at a TRF summer party years ago. He gave me a one hour masters degree in how to make a Triumph work right. I wish I was writing down what he was saying because over the years I retained most of the WHAT but forgot a lot of the HOW. When he passed away we lost a great innovator. I wonder why he never made it into the VTR hall of fame? Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo & Kathleen Hahn Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 7:18 PM To: 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' I first met Bob more than 20 years ago when he drove across country from AZ to OH to attend the TRA National. He drove the distance in his TR3A pulling his TRailer (made out of the back half of a TR3). As I recall he had cut a large hole in the 3's grill to improve air flow to the radiator and oil cooler -- doing the modification roadside somewhere in Texas (it was a hot June). He also did some tech sessions at that TRA including one on overheating from which I took away many ideas that I still use now that I am in the desert. Before we had the internet and great lists like this, it was guys like Bob who did a lot to keep the hobby alive. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Bob-n-TRailer.JPG Geo No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.5/1356 - Release Date: 4/2/2008 4:14 PM From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Thu Apr 3 17:42:00 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 20:42:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges Message-ID: <27446496.1207269720657.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi folks, Well, I just back home from work and guess what. The pin from one of the boot hinges had apparently fell out - leaving the trunk lid supported by only one hinge. The pin in the other hinge is OK - flush with the hinge, but the pins in the hood hinges look like they may also go AWOL, both sticking out about 1/16 inch. Has anybody experienced this? At the very least, I would suggest adding this to your quick weekly inspection of the car. Before I start the quest (undoubtedly futile) for a suitably sized drill bit to cut up as a replacement pin, has anyone got a spare hinge they would like to sell? Regards, Adrian TS 58324 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Apr 3 18:27:57 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 18:27:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges In-Reply-To: <27446496.1207269720657.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <27446496.1207269720657.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <9640164411F8423EBAE899D34AE0F746@GeoPC> Sounds like the perfect time to add the aftermarket luggage rack that requires you to press out those pins anyway. Really a slick set-up that I find very useful for roadtrips. BTW: I use a cap screw & nyloc nut in place of the pin when the rack is not mounted. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Adrian Jones" To: Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 5:42 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges > Hi folks, > > Well, I just back home from work and guess what. The pin from one of the > boot hinges had apparently fell out - leaving the trunk lid supported by > only one hinge. The pin in the other hinge is OK - flush with the hinge, > but the pins in the hood hinges look like they may also go AWOL, both > sticking out about 1/16 inch. Has anybody experienced this? From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 3 20:54:04 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 23:54:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device Message-ID: <00cb01c89607$872c3d20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Several times I have found my 1996 Nissan vehicle to have a dead battery as a result of having left on the lights. Also, a long time ago I wired up another vehicle which had this device (which I installed) which hada buzzer that sensed when this occured ( battery draining while the ignition was off). Radio Shack no longer carries this device (I remember it was like $15 then), and I couldn't find one on the internet. (Maybe I didn't use the right keywords on Ebay?). Surely the need for such a thing hasn't vanished and I hope some battery conglomerate didn't buy out the buzzers. WHERE CAN I GO TO GET ONE? Later, when I get my TR3's wiring straightened out, I'd like to add such a device. Can i use a similar buzzer on my TR? thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 264 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From odd at triumphclub.se Thu Apr 3 23:32:12 2008 From: odd at triumphclub.se (Odd Hedberg) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 08:32:12 +0200 Subject: [TR] [Wedge] Jim's TR8 woes: I can't believe it In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000401c8961d$9e895f00$c00aa8c0@DATOR01> Friends, while we're on the subject of Gunsons Colortune I'd like to re- mind y'all of another great Gunson tool: The Clikadjust Tappet Adjuster... Not of particular use for us TR7 (shimmed) and/or TR8 (hydraulic) people - but for the rest of the TR people (and all those other cars)... http://tinyurl.com/2lya9k or unabreviated: http://auto.frost.co.uk/search?p=R&srid=S8%2d3&lbc=frost&w=click&url=htt p%3a%2f%2fwww%2efrost%2eco%2euk%2fitem%5fDetail%2easp%3fproductID%3d8086 %26frostProductName%3dClikadjust%2bTappet%2bAdjuster%26catID%3d19%26subC atID%3d29%26FrostCat%3dEngine%26Mechanical%26FrostSubcat%3dEngineTools&r k=1&uid=899883896&sid=2&ts=custom&rsc=:xOl09HOr4WttP:v&method=and&isort= score&view=grid Great tool if you still have tappets needing manual adjustment! /Odd From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Fri Apr 4 02:38:10 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 05:38:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device References: <00cb01c89607$872c3d20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <000c01c89637$992b5260$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Radio Shack caries a number of 12 volt buzzers, any of which will work. For conventional hot switched headlight circuits and such you connect the buzzer in the fuse box from the headlight fuse to another that grounds when the car is switched off, frequently the wiper circuit. If your Nissan is ground switched (Honda does that sporadically), you'll need to include a simple relay. ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 11:54 PM Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device > Several times I have found my 1996 Nissan vehicle to have a dead battery > as a > result of having left on the lights. Also, a long time ago I wired up > another > vehicle which had this device (which I installed) which hada buzzer that > sensed when this occured ( battery draining while the ignition was off). > > Radio Shack no longer carries this device (I remember it was like $15 > then), > and I couldn't find one on the internet. (Maybe I didn't use the right > keywords on Ebay?). Surely the need for such a thing hasn't vanished and > I > hope some battery conglomerate didn't buy out the buzzers. WHERE CAN I > GO TO > GET ONE? > > Later, when I get my TR3's wiring straightened out, I'd like to add such a > device. Can i use a similar buzzer on my TR? From DLylis at aol.com Fri Apr 4 04:22:26 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 07:22:26 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color Message-ID: It is a great feeling that I am even asking this question. My 60 TR was originally white and so I want to return it to that state. Over the years it became Green and then Brown (ouch). I know there are basically two whites, a Spa White and a Pearl White. I do not want the car to be "refrigerator white" regardless of what it was to begin with. Does anyone know which of those two colors is an "off white", or "antique white"? Color chips are just not doing it. They all look the same on line, as expected. Can anyone recommend a modern car color that should be considered, and (last question) do you know the modern paint code for the two mentioned above? I have seen some cars that are just too "cream" for me. I know describing colors is futile, but it gives me a point of reference. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From DLylis at aol.com Fri Apr 4 04:30:04 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 07:30:04 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges Message-ID: How are those suction cups on your paint? I have seen this setup and like it, but that was my question. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Apr 4 04:42:11 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 06:42:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200804040642.11349.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 04 April 2008 06:22 am, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > It is a great feeling that I am even asking this question. My 60 TR was > originally white and so I want to return it to that state. Over the years > it became Green and then Brown (ouch). I know there are basically two > whites, a Spa White and a Pearl White. I do not want the car to be > "refrigerator white" regardless of what it was to begin with. Does anyone > know which of those two colors is an "off white", or "antique white"? > Color chips are just not doing it. They all look the same on line, as > expected. > Can anyone recommend a modern car color that should be considered, and > (last question) do you know the modern paint code for the two mentioned > above? I have seen some cars that are just too "cream" for me. > I know describing colors is futile, but it gives me a point of reference. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > David, I gave the old paint code for Spa White to my local paint shop and they were able to locate a formula for PPG brand DCC. DCC is a single stage urethane. I used it on my TR4 restoration. If you want a photo of the car, just send me an email. Bob From twakeman at razzolink.com Fri Apr 4 06:10:00 2008 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2008 05:10:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47F628A8.10205@razzolink.com> DLylis at aol.com wrote: > How are those suction cups on your paint? I have seen this setup and like > it, but that was my question. The nice thing about the factory style luggage rack that uses boot hinge and suction cup mounting is that it is easily removable. Mine only goes on when I have need for the rack or wish to display it. Otherwise it is stored inside the house out of the weather. I've used mine off and on for over 15 years now. Used this way the rubber cups have not affected my boot lid's colour. I imagine that if you put the rack on and left it on over the years the under cup and sun exposed parts might differ in colour. I'd be as least as concerned about what the weather did to the factory type rack. I waited almost a year for that rack to arrive from TRF so when it comes off it gets a fresh coat of wax & get stored inside the house. Teriann From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Fri Apr 4 06:04:44 2008 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 09:04:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device In-Reply-To: <00cb01c89607$872c3d20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C081A4180@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Hi Paul: I bought such a thing from Canadian Tire nearly 20 years ago and installed it in the TR6. It's saved me from draining the battery many a time since. It was a pretty common sort of gizmo back then. I'm sure the Internet has them listed. Cheers, Mark -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: April 3, 2008 11:54 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device Several times I have found my 1996 Nissan vehicle to have a dead battery as a result of having left on the lights. Also, a long time ago I wired up another vehicle which had this device (which I installed) which hada buzzer that sensed when this occured ( battery draining while the ignition was off). Radio Shack no longer carries this device (I remember it was like $15 then), and I couldn't find one on the internet. (Maybe I didn't use the right keywords on Ebay?). Surely the need for such a thing hasn't vanished and I hope some battery conglomerate didn't buy out the buzzers. WHERE CAN I GO TO GET ONE? Later, when I get my TR3's wiring straightened out, I'd like to add such a device. Can i use a similar buzzer on my TR? thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Apr 4 06:08:26 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 09:08:26 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color Message-ID: For what its worth, I've seen several LBCs painted with a "pearlescent " paint. To MY eye, that seems so wrong for an LBC. Best, Mike Moore **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 4 06:15:45 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 06:15:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Emmisions devices In-Reply-To: <000901c88e15$87184030$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <33404.82404.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hello List(s), Recently some one was asking about the air injection rail fitted to lat TR6 engines. If they (or anyone else) still is in need of it, I have the complete air injection system still attached to the exhaust manifold (excluding air pump). I do not need it (no emmision regulations where I live), so wanted to offer here first. Please contact me off-list if interested. Raymond L. Hatfield '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" Little Rock, AR Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr ____________________________________________________________________________________ You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Apr 4 06:39:07 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 13:39:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges In-Reply-To: <27446496.1207269720657.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <27446496.1207269720657.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: I lost a hinge pin from my trunk lid on the way home from Triumphest a few years ago. I stopped at the first hardware store I saw an bought a roll pin to replace it. Worked very well. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Going green? See the top 12 foods to eat organic. http://green.msn.com/galleries/photos/photos.aspx?gid=164&ocid=T003MSN51N1653 A From flashtr3 at cox.net Fri Apr 4 08:08:55 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 08:08:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' References: <009d01c89506$69ef1e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><000c01c8953c$23661c50$6401a8c0@sniffer><000401c8958b$02446a50$fb157247@fred8kwiskhcfu> <69ABCB72EE964493A59D796CC1DF79E0@GeoPC> Message-ID: <00bc01c89665$cd118580$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I too met Bob S. over 20 years ago at Triumphest in So Cal. Bob was explaining to me how he converted his worm gear steering box to rack & pinion on his TR3 and how easy it would be to convert mine over to rack & pinion. He gave me one of his original books so that I may have a reference. Bob was always ready to give a hand or information to fellow Triumph owners. He has been truly missed. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn To: 'list Triumph' Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 4:18 PM Subject: Re: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' I first met Bob more than 20 years ago when he drove across country from AZ to OH to attend the TRA National. He drove the distance in his TR3A pulling his TRailer (made out of the back half of a TR3). As I recall he had cut a large hole in the 3's grill to improve air flow to the radiator and oil cooler -- doing the modification roadside somewhere in Texas (it was a hot June). He also did some tech sessions at that TRA including one on overheating from which I took away many ideas that I still use now that I am in the desert. Before we had the internet and great lists like this, it was guys like Bob who did a lot to keep the hobby alive. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Bob-n-TRailer.JPG Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "FRED E THOMAS" To: "wbeech" ; "'dorpaul'" ; "'list Triumph'" Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 6:02 AM Subject: Re: [TR] BOOK: 'More BS About TR's' > Bob Schaller passed away a few years back. "FT" _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 4 09:44:25 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 08:44:25 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080404154409.FEDH22170.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > For what its worth, I've seen several LBCs painted with a > "pearlescent " > paint. To MY eye, that seems so wrong for an LBC. There is a TR3A here in SoCA with a trick paint job that looks white in some light, and light green in others. While it's not what I'd paint my own car, I find it quite attractive. OTOH, red is SOO boring ... I wonder if there is a TR3 left on the planet that hasn't been red at least once in it's life. Randall From twakeman at razzolink.com Fri Apr 4 09:59:04 2008 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2008 08:59:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color In-Reply-To: <20080404154409.FEDH22170.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20080404154409.FEDH22170.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <47F65E58.6010007@razzolink.com> Randall wrote: > OTOH, red is SOO boring ... I wonder if there is a TR3 left on the planet > that hasn't been red at least once in it's life. At lease mine came by it naturally. It was born red with white soft top & side curtains. When I was rebuilding it in the late 1980's I did toy with apple green (Triumph racing green?) but I was going through my authenticity nazi phase and couldn't bear to have it any colour other than its factory original colour. Teriann From coefront at shaw.ca Fri Apr 4 09:01:07 2008 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2008 10:01:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Grill Message-ID: Hi: Please post the following for me: Herald "early series" Grill is on my list of essentials. Please can anyone point me in the right direction in finding one of these. A replica, Shell 4000 Cross Canada, TR4 Rally Car is under construction using the correct year TR4. The rally car had air grills in each front fender just ahead of the doors. Triumph took these from the Herald parts bin. Thanks. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca Mike Coe No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.5/1359 - Release Date: 04/04/2008 8:23 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 4 10:07:12 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 09:07:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080404160707.JOPQ680.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > I know there are basically two whites, a Spa White > and a Pearl White. Actually, I believe Pearl White was before your car, and Spa White was after your car. The original factory white for a late 3A would have been "Sebring White". According to one computer scan of an aftermarket paint chip (very accurate record there ), Sebring White had a very light blue tinge to it, almost a very pale ice blue. But it doesn't show in another scan (from a different supplier), so hard to know which is correct. > I do not want the car to be "refrigerator white" > regardless of what it was to begin with. Does anyone know > which of those > two colors is an "off white", or "antique white"? I believe Spa White is a little darker than Pearl White (which BTW, I don't believe was what is known as "pearlescent" ... that effect came later). > Can anyone recommend a modern car color that should be > considered, IMO, the best way to do that is to just look at every modern car you see, until you find one that is the color you like. Note it's make, model and year (I've even been known to run up to people and ask them what year their car is); and then go to a paint & body shop and ask for the paint code to match. > and (last > question) do you know the modern paint code for the two > mentioned above? The original PPG-Ditzler code for Spa White was 8335; your paint shop should be able to cross-reference that to the paint system they use. According to Joe Curry's excellent page on the subject, Pearl White was 8204 and Sebring White was 8247. > I have seen some cars that are just too "cream" for me. > I know describing colors is futile, but it gives me a point > of reference. I've found this process very frustrating myself ... so I'll just repeat the above suggestion : find a car that is the color you want, then try to reproduce that color. Of course, foolish me, the color I picked out for my Stag was 2005 Lotus Racing Green Metallic ... which it turns out cannot be matched in the US ! I'd have to ship the car to Belgium or some such But knowing the modern color, we were able to find a very near match in a Ford color; the result looks good to me. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 4 10:16:46 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 09:16:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080404161729.DBKP25784.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > How are those suction cups on your paint? I have seen this > setup and like it, but that was my question. I bought a luggage rack for the 1000 mile trek to VTR 2001, put it on the day I left and removed it the day after I got back. There are dark circle visible in the paint, where those suction cups touched it (and my TR3A is a relatively dark color, likely it would be worse on white). FT had some polyurethane mounts made for his, that he says did not mark his paint. Of course, anything that shades the paint from the sun long enough is going to produce a difference in fading, but just occasional use shouldn't cause that, IMO. Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Apr 4 09:19:46 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 11:19:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color References: <20080404154409.FEDH22170.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <000b01c8966f$b3544600$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > OTOH, red is SOO boring ... I wonder if there is a TR3 left on the planet > that hasn't been red at least once in it's life. > > Randall My TR3A was originally powder blue but was painted a strange reddish orange (or maybe orangeish red) color at some time in it is life. It looks like someone slapped it with the ugly stick. It will become BRG when I get back to its long delayed restoration. And I am going with a tan interior and top, which may not have been an original color/interior combination (I believe it was BRG/Black), but I like it. So there. Mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 4 10:46:24 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 09:46:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color In-Reply-To: <000b01c8966f$b3544600$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <20080404164708.DYHL25784.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > And I am going with a tan interior and > top, which may not have been an original color/interior > combination (I believe it was BRG/Black), but I like it. So there. And that is definitely what is important, IMO. It's YOUR car, it should please YOU. Besides, Standard-Triumph would sell you almost any combination (for a price), so no one can say definitively that BRG/tan is "wrong". Only (perhaps) that it wasn't a 'standard' color combination. There are a couple of cars around here with BRG/tan and IMO it looks very nice. BTW, Piggott mentions (and I believe it to be true) that "BRG" was not a single color, but varied somewhat from year to year. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Apr 4 10:06:19 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 13:06:19 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color Message-ID: In a message dated 4/4/2008 8:44:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: There is a TR3A here in SoCA with a trick paint job that looks white in some light, and light green in others. While it's not what I'd paint my own car, I find it quite attractive. That would probably be Jon Corbin's car. I have a friend with a 64 E Type with the same paint-just depends on what you like. A friend told me about attending a deLorean car show once . Sai dit was incredibly boring-the only difference in the cars had to do with the ones which had had an accident and were painted and the stainless ones. Mike Moore **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Apr 4 10:07:52 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 12:07:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color References: <20080404164708.DYHL25784.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <001101c89676$6bab12a0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > BTW, Piggott mentions (and I believe it to be true) that "BRG" was not a > single color, but varied somewhat from year to year. > > Randall Yes, I agree that the definition of BRG was open to much interpretation by all British car manufacturers back then. I don't have a particular color code in mind, but my preference is for the darker shades, which were more like the "authentic" (whatever that means) BRG as seen on the Blower Bentleys of the 30s or the BRMs and Vanwalls of my youth. Those were the days... Mike From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Fri Apr 4 10:10:19 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2008 13:10:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint Message-ID: <00e801c89676$c2c5f640$fb157247@fred8kwiskhcfu> ----- Original Message ----- > this is from Bob Schallers book on colors paint codes are "Ditzler", I'm > sure with these numbers you can go to other paint company's and they can > cross reference, original paint is enamel, so they will have the modern= > up to date material > > > > Pearl White 61 & prior very lt gray > # 8204 > > Sebring White 62 and prior #8247 This color was for > ===EXPORT==== > > Spa White 60-62-63 8335 > > Pure White 63-65 9000 > > > This is exactly as Bob has Printed "FT" From wbeech at flash.net Fri Apr 4 10:27:26 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 11:27:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] Paint In-Reply-To: <00e801c89676$c2c5f640$fb157247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <00e801c89676$c2c5f640$fb157247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <000901c89679$27c2b4a0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Fred, Pure White is #8380, #9000 is Black (that would be a surprise). FYI, the Moss catalog has a good listing of all the colors/numbers but does not show the Pure White that Bob Schaller has listed, at all. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FRED E THOMAS Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 11:10 AM To: triumphs Subject: [TR] Paint ----- Original Message ----- > this is from Bob Schallers book on colors paint codes are "Ditzler", > I'm sure with these numbers you can go to other paint company's and > they can cross reference, original paint is enamel, so they will have > the modern= up to date material > > > > Pearl White 61 & prior very lt gray > # 8204 > > Sebring White 62 and prior #8247 This color was for > ===EXPORT==== > > Spa White 60-62-63 8335 > > Pure White 63-65 9000 > > > This is exactly as Bob has Printed "FT" This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From triumph66 at gmail.com Fri Apr 4 10:43:51 2008 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 13:43:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] drive'em all - UK, FR, IT, and even US cars to toddle around the continent Message-ID: I was doing some research for fellow lister on France, and I stumbled across this vintage car rental agency 15km outside of Paris. Take your pick, TR, Citroen Traction Avant, Lancia Monte Carlo, Jag, RR, etc. Quite the choice, NFI, Ted http://www.voditi.com/ http://www.voditi.com/sanschauffeur/location%20sans%20chauffeur.htm http://www.voditi.com/societe/contact.html -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO http://www.triumphowners.com/967 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 4 10:43:52 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 10:43:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <220101c8967b$72882d10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > That would probably be Jon Corbin's car. Yes, that's the one (but I think Jon spells his last name with a 'K'). Randall From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Apr 4 10:40:07 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 10:40:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device In-Reply-To: <00cb01c89607$872c3d20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00cb01c89607$872c3d20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Seems like most modern cars are smart enough to turn the head lamps off after a short spell with the ignition off. Perhaps the implentation of this function has mostly eliminated the need for this product. Does happen to us though. At our Tuesday morning coffee this week one driver had left his XKEs lights on and asked me for a jump (car was parked pointing slightly uphill). Instead I recruited 6 other club members and we did a push start -- thus assuring maximum embarassment. Geo Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" > > Radio Shack no longer carries this device (I remember it was like $15 > then), > and I couldn't find one on the internet. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Apr 4 10:52:22 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 10:52:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9B28AC3E1BC64B81A461E6C6865C52B7@GeoPC> I cut circles out of sheet aluminum and circles out of cotton sweatshirt cloth and used those on the bottom of the rubber feet. The aluminum is to spread the load -- the feet appeared to be slightly dished though any suction they would produce didn't seem necessary -- and I was concerned that the dish shape would put all the load on the outer edge of the feet. The cloth help protects the finish. Neither the metal nor the cloth is noticable when the rack is in place. I have never seen fading in exposed vs hidden areas on my car but it is clear-coated. The clear coat on mine seems to be about as soft as butter and would likely become hazy spots under the feet w/o the cloth. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com ; adrianjones747 at earthlink.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 4:30 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges How are those suction cups on your paint? I have seen this setup and like it, but that was my question. David Lylis road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Fri Apr 4 11:12:30 2008 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2008 13:12:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color Message-ID: <47f66f8e.2cd.5717.4030@cogeco.ca> > Can anyone recommend a modern car color that should be considered, I'm very pleased with "Mazda Dover White" on my 3A (or at least my paintshop's formulation of it), I saw it on a couple of TR4s and asked them what it was. Not blinding white, not yellow-cream either. I'm guessing that Mazda did some research on british sports car colours of the roadster era for the Miata, although I think this colour was on several models. From flashtr3 at cox.net Fri Apr 4 11:12:34 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 11:12:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges References: Message-ID: <001601c8967f$74b2ff80$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I have this rack set-up on my TR3, and the rubber mounts after being on there for more then 10 years with-out removing the luggage rack has discolored the white finish (turned yellow) if I remove the rack. However, I like the fact that it hooks up to the rear hinges & if you use the metal straps that hold the rear of the luggage rack down, no holes has to be drilled into the rear deck lid. I don't know if that style is still available? Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com ; adrianjones747 at earthlink.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 4:30 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges How are those suction cups on your paint? I have seen this setup and like it, but that was my question. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv000300000000 16) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Apr 4 11:14:43 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2008 14:14:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Grill In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CA6496E425C6CA-1670-E4B@WEBMAIL-DF02.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Mike Coe Herald "early series" Grill is on my list of essentials. Please can anyone point me in the right direction in finding one of these. A replica, Shell 4000 Cross Canada, TR4 Rally Car is under construction using the correct year TR4. The rally car had air grills in each front fender just ahead of the doors. Triumph took these from the Herald parts bin. Thanks. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca ==AM== Best advice I can offer is to watch eBay and other places for Heralds being parted out. NOTE: my understanding is that each rally car vent will take one Herald grille piece, so you'll need to find two. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Fri Apr 4 11:31:06 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 14:31:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device In-Reply-To: References: <00cb01c89607$872c3d20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: > Seems like most modern cars are smart enough to turn the head lamps off > after a short spell with the ignition off. Perhaps the implentation of this > function has mostly eliminated the need for this product.> Geo TR3 headlamps will turn off by themselves after a while, too. Takes longer than a short spell, but they will indeed turn off. I have experimented with this. John From spitlist at cox.net Fri Apr 4 11:59:43 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 11:59:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device References: <00cb01c89607$872c3d20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <007001c89686$0b3eaca0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> The reasonthese devices may have dropped off the market is possibly due to the fact that modern cars have devices that require power to be applied all the time to keep the memory intact (security systems and radie presets come to mind). Since these devices represent a constant (albeit small) battery drain, the devices might not work for modern cars. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" To: "dorpaul" ; "list Triumph" Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 10:40 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device > Seems like most modern cars are smart enough to turn the head lamps off > after a short spell with the ignition off. Perhaps the implentation of this > function has mostly eliminated the need for this product. > > Does happen to us though. At our Tuesday morning coffee this week one > driver had left his XKEs lights on and asked me for a jump (car was parked > pointing slightly uphill). Instead I recruited 6 other club members and we > did a push start -- thus assuring maximum embarassment. > > Geo From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Apr 4 12:16:42 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 15:16:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges References: <20080404161729.DBKP25784.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <006001c89688$6ac9fc40$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Or a second boot lid solely for the luggage rack. Ed From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 4 12:37:31 2008 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 12:37:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device In-Reply-To: <00cb01c89607$872c3d20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00cb01c89607$872c3d20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: The devices are still around. Here is a link to one http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...1&skunum=22018 NFI and all of that. Mike Denman TR3 On Apr 3, 2008, at 8:54 PM, dorpaul wrote: > Several times I have found my 1996 Nissan vehicle to have a dead > battery as a > result of having left on the lights. Also, a long time ago I wired > up another > vehicle which had this device (which I installed) which hada buzzer > that > sensed when this occured ( battery draining while the ignition was > off). > > Radio Shack no longer carries this device (I remember it was like > $15 then), > and I couldn't find one on the internet. (Maybe I didn't use the > right > keywords on Ebay?). Surely the need for such a thing hasn't > vanished and I > hope some battery conglomerate didn't buy out the buzzers. WHERE > CAN I GO TO > GET ONE? > > Later, when I get my TR3's wiring straightened out, I'd like to add > such a > device. Can i use a similar buzzer on my TR? > > thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. > It has removed 264 spam emails to date. > Paying users do not have this message in their emails. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Apr 4 12:53:29 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 15:53:29 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color Message-ID: In a message dated 4/4/2008 10:50:15 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Yes, that's the one (but I think Jon spells his last name with a 'K'). Ah yes! John Korbin :-)) Mike Miire **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Apr 4 15:39:46 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 15:39:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges In-Reply-To: <001601c8967f$74b2ff80$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <001601c8967f$74b2ff80$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: That is the style offered by TRF. There is often a long wait (perhaps a year) as they are apparently made in England and possibly only when there are enough orders in hand. The yellowing may be due to the rubber gassing-out some chemical. I once stored a stack of Michelin tires on a tarp in a carpeted bedroom. The wait to install ran into months and when removed I had a nice yellow ring in the light brown carpet that no amount of cleaning would remove. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ibsen Dow" >...no holes has to be drilled into the rear > deck lid. I don't know if that style is still available? From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Apr 4 17:22:52 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 20:22:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges References: <27446496.1207269720657.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <005501c896b3$30973f30$5918e247@DCS78M81> I used a large cotter pin for a while once. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Adrian Jones" To: Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 8:42 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges > Hi folks, > > Well, I just back home from work and guess what. The pin from one of the > boot hinges had apparently fell out - leaving the trunk lid supported by > only one hinge. The pin in the other hinge is OK - flush with the hinge, > but the pins in the hood hinges look like they may also go AWOL, both > sticking out about 1/16 inch. Has anybody experienced this? > > At the very least, I would suggest adding this to your quick weekly > inspection of the car. > > Before I start the quest (undoubtedly futile) for a suitably sized drill > bit to cut up as a replacement pin, has anyone got a spare hinge they > would like to sell? > > Regards, Adrian > TS 58324 From eoot at citlink.net Fri Apr 4 18:03:25 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 21:03:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges References: <001601c8967f$74b2ff80$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <000b01c896b8$dbcdddf0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> I just got one from TRF. Got it in 3 days. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" To: "Ibsen Dow" Cc: Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 6:39 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges > That is the style offered by TRF. There is often a long wait (perhaps a > year) as they are apparently made in England and possibly only when there > are enough orders in hand. > > The yellowing may be due to the rubber gassing-out some chemical. I once > stored a stack of Michelin tires on a tarp in a carpeted bedroom. The > wait > to install ran into months and when removed I had a nice yellow ring in > the > light brown carpet that no amount of cleaning would remove. > > Geo > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ibsen Dow" >>...no holes has to be drilled into the rear >> deck lid. I don't know if that style is still available? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Apr 4 19:03:51 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 22:03:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: TR3 rear fender stay In-Reply-To: <20080403055406.REDZ10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> References: <002d01c89534$9c0dfea0$a2423b47@Scott> <20080403055406.REDZ10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <002201c896c1$4c2707e0$d5bd7f18@Scott> Yes, that is correct Randall. I was wrong in my part reference as to where it mounts basically since I too am clueless has to how this part goes (and I do have the part). I think I will see if one of our club members can help out on its use as I am not following your description. This is one of those that a picture will tell the story. Thanks. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 2:54 AM To: 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: Re: [TR] FW: TR3 rear fender stay > Yes, this is the one that Paul is referring to. The one end > bolts into the stiffening panel (item #19, page 67 of Moss > catalog) caged nut. What I am not clear of is how does the > other end that is bent at a right angle fit to the fender? Are you guys possibly talking about P/N 602167, "Clamp, rear wing fixing" ?? This is a short strip of metal, about 1/2" wide and 3-1/2" long with a captive nut at one end, and a sharp right angle at the other end. The angled part is no more than 1/4". It doesn't really connect to anything; the captive nut gets the rearmost truss-headed screw from the trunk lid opening, while the angle presses against the lip of the rear fender at the very back. It basically clamps the last little bit of the fender to the rear apron. http://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR2TR3/33.php?s_wt=1680&s_ht=1050 Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Apr 4 19:30:33 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 22:30:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Headlight Alarm found, was Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device Message-ID: <011501c896c5$072de0b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hopefully this headlight alarm from JC Whitney will alert you when you've left your lights on but have turned off the car. It is only $10.50 and available at http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p _Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2001371&TID=8014524F&TID=8014524F&productId=2001371&ca talogId=10101 A long time ago I installed a device that has a 'buzzer that alarms you when the lights are left on and the ignition is off'. At that time I think I bought it from Radio Shack for $15. I am having a hard time finding this device in 2008. I'm sure that at least part of the reason for it's dissapearence is that today's cars are loaded down with buzzers. I want it for my 12 year old Nissan Truck (which doesn't have this installed). Although I've yet to drive a Triumph (and I've heard stories that these cars can indeed be made to run) it seems that such a device on a British Car might be a lifesaver!!!!!!!! Acting on Mike Denman's suggestion, I tried Camping World but they no longer carry the 'Priority Start' . However, I found these people do specialize in this item: http://www.prioritystart.com/store.html This gizmo works differently then the 'buzzer that alarms you when the lights are left on and the ignition is off'. This gizmo automatically disengages the battery when the battery's voltage drops below a certain amount, but reingages it when you hit the brake pedal or door light. This gizmo costs around $100 Some other folk's advice is shown below: Radio Shack caries a number of 12 volt buzzers, any of which will work. For conventional hot switched headlight circuits and such you connect the buzzer in the fuse box from the headlight fuse to another that grounds when the car is switched off, frequently the wiper circuit. If your Nissan is ground switched (Honda does that sporadically), you'll need to include a simple relay. If you want to make one: Buzzer reminds you to turn off headlights and parking lights when you turn off ignition. POPULAR ELECTRONICS [1] May 1965 (v.22#5) pg. 45 Headlight alarm sounds if the lights are left on after the ignition is switched off. POPULAR ELECTRONICS [1] Jan 1966 (v.24#1) pg. 81 Headlight alarm will go off if you leave your lights on after you turn off ignition. Also will warn you if you try to start your car with lights on. POPULAR ELECTRONICS [1] Apr 1966 (v.24#4) pg. 65 This page is quite interesting at it has plans for building a 'headlight alarm'. I wish I were 'Randall-inclined' as I might then attempt it. If someone does try this would you please write me? Paul Dorsery 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 264 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 4 22:48:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 21:48:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] FW: TR3 rear fender stay In-Reply-To: <002201c896c1$4c2707e0$d5bd7f18@Scott> Message-ID: <20080405044913.DCLP25784.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I think I will see if one of our club members can help out on > its use as I am not following your description. This is one > of those that a picture will tell the story. Not a very photogenic area, I'm afraid. But here's about the best I could do with TS13571L. The viewpoint is from under the car, looking up inside the rear fender. The top of the photo is the inside of the LH rear fender, while the bottom is the outer LH wall of the trunk. The big black thing is the drain tube from the drip rail around the trunk. To the right of that you see the housing for the wires to the tail light. The arrows point out the clamp, two bolts, and the lip of the fender; plus I've tried to outline the clamp in white (it's hard to see otherwise). And you can see the proof that TS13571L was also red at some point in it's life, probably originally. Randall [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of CLAMP EXPLAINED.JPG] From trbobtr at yahoo.com Fri Apr 4 21:58:01 2008 From: trbobtr at yahoo.com (Bob Rolfes) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 21:58:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges Message-ID: <32813.5969.qm@web90603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Tom wrote: "I used a large cotter pin for a while once. Tom" I did too back in about 1998. It is still there, but the threaded studs now keep falling out. Maybe I'll try that Locktite stuff someday. Bob --------------------------------- You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 4 23:08:36 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 22:08:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] Headlight Alarm found, was Aftermarket Anti-battery draining device In-Reply-To: <011501c896c5$072de0b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080405050825.PJMF21903.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > This page is quite interesting at > > it has plans for building a 'headlight alarm'. Seems overly complicated to me, especially for what it does. You can accomplish the same thing with just a buzzer (eg http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062397 ) and a series diode. One side to the tail lamp circuit, the other to the ignition circuit. Observe polarity on both diode and buzzer (to match your ground polarity), so the buzzer sounds only when the lights are on and the ignition is off. Or if, like me, you occasionally want to leave the lights on, with the key off but without the buzzer running; you could add a capacitor and resistor so the buzzer will only sound for a second or two. 1000 mfd (15 volts) capacitor bypassed with perhaps 100Kohm resistor should work. The capacitor goes in series with the buzzer & diode, again observing polarity. Randall From steven at newellboys.net Sat Apr 5 06:18:53 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2008 07:18:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] Grill (TR4 rally) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47F77C3D.3070107@newellboys.net> Mike Coe wrote: >Hi: > >Herald "early series" Grill is on my list of essentials. Please can anyone point me in the right direction in finding one of these. A replica, Shell 4000 Cross Canada, TR4 Rally Car is under construction using the correct year TR4. The rally car had air grills in each front fender just ahead of the doors. Triumph took these from the Herald parts bin. Thanks. Mike. > > I'm planning a similar project, but with less Canadian content. :) Revington TR in the UK offers rally repro parts. Rather than hack up a good Herald grill, you can get the wing vent grills made to fit along with the ducts through the inner wing to outer wing. Go to http://www.revingtontr.com/ Search on: DUCT FRONT WING TR4 RTR7019 is aluminum and RTR7060 is... not, I guess. The price of #52.50 a pair should be a deal in Canadian dollars! Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Sat Apr 5 07:00:48 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 10:00:48 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Leaving headlights on Message-ID: <8315241.1207404048620.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi folks, I'm guilty of this - just yesterday I left them on in my little MG Midget when I was grocery shopping. For my main, non-lbc car, it got so bad that I had a clothes peg in the tray below the radio. Whenever I turned on the lights I would immediately clip the peg onto the car key. That saved my bacon more than once. I also carry in the trunk one of those emergency jump-starter/compressor/light things ($60) that is less dangerous to use than jumper cables between two cars. This has also let me play the hero when other folk run their battery down. Regards, Adrian TS58324 From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Apr 5 11:01:03 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2008 10:01:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 cooling hoses Message-ID: <011001c89747$036f30f0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Spring is here. I'll be changing all the cooling hoses on my six. I'll pull the thermostat and leave radiator cap off for draining. Will coolent drain so heater will not drain into car? No leaks/problems just trying to improve reliability for stop and go driving in hot weather. I already have green hoses and clips set. Any and all thoughts/suggestions appreciated. Regards, Bob From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Apr 5 07:04:33 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 10:04:33 EDT Subject: [TR] Grill (TR4 rally) Message-ID: In a message dated 4/5/2008 8:19:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, steven at newellboys.net writes: I'm planning a similar project, but with less Canadian content. :) Revington TR in the UK offers rally repro parts. Rather than hack up a good Herald grill, you can get the wing vent grills made to fit along with the ducts through the inner wing to outer wing. Go to http://www.revingtontr.com/ Search on: DUCT FRONT WING TR4 RTR7019 is aluminum and RTR7060 is... not, I guess. The price of #52.50 a pair should be a deal in Canadian dollars! ==AM== Steven, over $100 US EACH for what I believe is a used or possibly NOS grille? Wow. Apparently I'm sitting on a goldmine, what with all the Heralds around my house. Trouble is, I can't spare any grilles. (Sidebar: Neil Revington once asked me, via e-mail, if I had grilles available!) Guess I'd better put some security locks on all my Herald grilles, at least whenever I'm near a TR4 project.... ;-) --Andy Mace (participating in the Federal Herald grille protection program) *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Sat Apr 5 07:09:13 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 10:09:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Federal Tires In-Reply-To: <011001c89747$036f30f0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <000501c89726$a08d5ef0$0301a8c0@chuck> Greetings, Like several others on the list, I, too, am looking to re-shoe my 1965 TR4A with scarce 165/80R15 tires. I've seen your recommendations for Sumitomo and Kumhos but can't find anyone with them in stock. I have found a supply of Federals (a Korean tire I believe) but don't know anything about them. Does anyone on the list have any experience with or knowledge of the Federal tires? Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Sat Apr 5 08:19:32 2008 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 16:19:32 +0100 Subject: [TR] Grill (TR4 rally) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080405160911.7D632187919@autox.team.net> > ==AM== > Steven, over $100 US EACH for what I believe is a used or possibly NOS > grille? Wow. Apparently I'm sitting on a goldmine, what with all the > Heralds > around my house. Trouble is, I can't spare any grilles. (Sidebar: Neil > Revington > once asked me, via e-mail, if I had grilles available!) Guess I'd better > put > some security locks on all my Herald grilles, at least whenever I'm near a > TR4 > project.... ;-) Andy, Like you, I have a decent supply of used Herald grilles, with more than a handful of NOS examples ready for future projects. Most of the used grilles I sell seem to end up in TR works replicas! I was recently informed that the grille material has been remade. It seems that exactly the same material was used by Aston Martin in the 1960s, take a look through google for images of the DB4 family ad you'll soon recognise that rille! Unfortunately, I've not been able to find out who makes it, so Aston Martin may be the only route to buying this new, Cheers, Bill. From davidt at opentext.com Sat Apr 5 08:15:41 2008 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 11:15:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Federal Tires Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB4A9B@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> Chuck I have a set of Korean tires on the '3a. They are a medium compound tire and are the same size you mention. I got them for $50/cdn about 4yrs ago. They seem decent for ride :-) David '59 TR3a '74 Spitsix. ----- Original Message ----- From: triumphs-bounces+davidt=opentext.com at autox.team.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat Apr 05 10:09:13 2008 Subject: [TR] Federal Tires Greetings, Like several others on the list, I, too, am looking to re-shoe my 1965 TR4A with scarce 165/80R15 tires. I've seen your recommendations for Sumitomo and Kumhos but can't find anyone with them in stock. I have found a supply of Federals (a Korean tire I believe) but don't know anything about them. Does anyone on the list have any experience with or knowledge of the Federal tires? Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as davidt at opentext.com http://www.team.net/archive From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Apr 5 08:41:43 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2008 10:41:43 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 cooling hoses Message-ID: <18665461.4362251207410103184.JavaMail.root@vms074.mailsrvcs.net> Bob, I did the same thing on my 72 TR6 while replacing upper and lower coolant hoses, no issues, no leaks inside the car. Craig From: Bob Date: 2008/04/05 Sat PM 01:01:03 CDT To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 cooling hoses Spring is here. I'll be changing all the cooling hoses on my six. I'll pull the thermostat and leave radiator cap off for draining. Will coolent drain so heater will not drain into car? No leaks/problems just trying to improve reliability for stop and go driving in hot weather. I already have green hoses and clips set. Any and all thoughts/suggestions appreciated. Regards, Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From bill_beecher at flash.net Sat Apr 5 09:12:07 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 10:12:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Upper Wishbone TR3 Message-ID: <000001c89737$ce5f32c0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Good morning List, Now that I have a stripped rolling chassis I have been look carefully at the front suspension. It was completely re-built by the PO and looks to be very solid with the exception of the upper wishbone bushings. One is obviously loose so I will replace both sides while I am at it. My question is this: Can I simply remove the castellated nut at the junction of the wishbones the pull the upper fulcrum pin and do the replacement on the bench? Being as there is no weight on the suspension, is anything under tension or do I need to compress the road springs before removing the wishbone units? Thanks, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 5 10:38:33 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 09:38:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] Upper Wishbone TR3 In-Reply-To: <000001c89737$ce5f32c0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <20080405163901.UGIL10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > My question is this: Can I simply remove the castellated nut > at the junction of the wishbones the pull the upper fulcrum > pin and do the replacement on the bench? The problem with that approach is that one of the nuts for the bolts that hold the fulcrum pin is inside the spring housing, and nearly impossible to get to with the spring and suspension in the way. My suggestion would be to leave the fulcrum pin on the car, and just change the bushings there. Since replacement rubber bushings failed relatively quickly, I did this job several times before finally converting them to Nylatron. > Being as there is > no weight on the suspension, is anything under tension or do > I need to compress the road springs before removing the > wishbone units? Likely depends on the car, but on my TR3A I found that I needed to compress the suspension just a bit in order to get room to remove the castellated nut. But just a floor jack and a block of wood under the spring pan worked fine, it only needs to be raised a little bit and the spring remains trapped by the shock & pan. Lift it up, remove the nut, lower it again, then pop the ball joint out of the upper arms. If the brake calipers are installed, have a piece of wire handy to support the vertical link, so it doesn't strain the brake hose. You're also supposed to have the suspension compressed when you tighten the nuts onto the new bushings. In retrospect, not doing that may be why the rubber bushings never lasted very long for me. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 5 10:47:42 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 09:47:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] Leaving headlights on In-Reply-To: <8315241.1207404048620.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20080405164737.CWRD680.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > I'm guilty of this - just yesterday I left them on in my > little MG Midget when I was grocery shopping. For anything where the knob sticks out, I make it a habit to always touch the knob before turning the key off. Unfortunately that doesn't work for the Stag (which has a rotary light switch), so I'll be adding the buzzer circuit I described. Real Soon Now ... after I rebuild the gearbox, front suspension, rear suspension, replace the windscreen, etc. Randall From bill_beecher at flash.net Sat Apr 5 10:57:55 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 11:57:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Upper Wishbone TR3 In-Reply-To: <20080405163901.UGIL10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> References: <000001c89737$ce5f32c0$6401a8c0@sniffer> <20080405163901.UGIL10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <000601c89746$94eb90b0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Thanks Randall, I'll leave the fulcrum pin on the tower then. Will probably still rent a compressor as there is no weight to counter lifting the spring pan. (bare chassis) All the best, Bill -----Original Message----- From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 11:39 AM To: 'Bill Beecher'; 'triumphs' Subject: RE: [TR] Upper Wishbone TR3 > My question is this: Can I simply remove the castellated nut at the > junction of the wishbones the pull the upper fulcrum pin and do the > replacement on the bench? The problem with that approach is that one of the nuts for the bolts that hold the fulcrum pin is inside the spring housing, and nearly impossible to get to with the spring and suspension in the way. My suggestion would be to leave the fulcrum pin on the car, and just change the bushings there. Since replacement rubber bushings failed relatively quickly, I did this job several times before finally converting them to Nylatron. > Being as there is > no weight on the suspension, is anything under tension or do I need to > compress the road springs before removing the wishbone units? Likely depends on the car, but on my TR3A I found that I needed to compress the suspension just a bit in order to get room to remove the castellated nut. But just a floor jack and a block of wood under the spring pan worked fine, it only needs to be raised a little bit and the spring remains trapped by the shock & pan. Lift it up, remove the nut, lower it again, then pop the ball joint out of the upper arms. If the brake calipers are installed, have a piece of wire handy to support the vertical link, so it doesn't strain the brake hose. You're also supposed to have the suspension compressed when you tighten the nuts onto the new bushings. In retrospect, not doing that may be why the rubber bushings never lasted very long for me. Randall From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Apr 5 11:28:38 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 14:28:38 EDT Subject: [TR] Grill (TR4 rally) Message-ID: In a message dated 4/5/2008 10:10:01 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk writes: Like you, I have a decent supply of used Herald grilles, with more than a handful of NOS examples ready for future projects. Most of the used grilles I sell seem to end up in TR works replicas! I was recently informed that the grille material has been remade. It seems that exactly the same material was used by Aston Martin in the 1960s, take a look through google for images of the DB4 family ad you'll soon recognise that rille! Unfortunately, I've not been able to find out who makes it, so Aston Martin may be the only route to buying this new, ==AM== Interesting. I think the originals were made by Wilmot-Breeden, so perhaps they or some successor company is doing this? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From dkspence at telus.net Sat Apr 5 12:45:37 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 13:45:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] More on oil and ZDDP content In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: From the Volkswagon Vanagon list Subject: Re: Zincless Oil http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_15W-50_.aspx Mobil now claims their 15w-50 is now engineered for older vehicles that need more anti wear additives. It has a lot of ash (1.2%) to prevent ring sticking and oil analysis is showing it be well over 1,200 PPM zinc. It does appear to vary. Last sample for FUN BUS came in at almost 1,600. The Mobil 1 0w-40 is also up there. This issue with the ZDDP and ash is that it fouls the catalytic converters. The low ZDDP oils are still at 800 PPM and .8% ash so they are not zinc free. I also do not believe these modern oil cause engine failures. There are still modern engines that use flat lifters. Many after market cams are made from low quality cast billets with improper heat treat and that is why they often fail and these failures were a problem 25 years ago. Dennis -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon at gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Mike S Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 6:46 PM To: vanagon at GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Zincless Oil At 04:18 PM 4/3/2008, Bob Stevens wrote... > If the container says SM on it, it's zincless; and must say SJ (?) to > be safe? > It is not that simple. There is no limit on zinc in any of the grades. There are limits on phosphorus, which limits the use of ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate), which is the antiwear additive that people are concerned about. API SJ has a "non-critical" phosphorus limit of 1000 PPM (0.1%) for 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 weights. It must pass the wear test of ASTM D 4485 Test Method Sequence VE. API SL rated engine oils required minimum 800 PPM phosphorus (as part of ZDDP), _or_ a pass on the wear test mentioned above. It has the same "non-critical" phosphorus limit as SJ. The API SM spec has a phosphorus limit of 800 PPM, for the grades given above. Other weights have no limit on phosphorus (or zinc). All weights require a minimum of 600 PPM. None of the weights with a phosphorus (and consequently a ZDDP) limit are suitable for a VW aircooled engine. For the weights which are suitable, there is therefore no way to tell from the API grade how much, or how little, ZDDP is present, except that SM requires a minimum of 600 PPM (which is about 1/2 of what was typically found in the old, "good," oils). In short, without an oil analysis, you can't tell. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 5 12:58:15 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 14:58:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Southwest Triumph Regionals References: Message-ID: <002501c89757$6426ea40$800101df@garage.local> http://www.redrivertriumphclub.org/regional2008_index.html definite financial and other interest!!!!!!!!!! if you have any questions, please feel free to email me directly!!! From steven at newellboys.net Sat Apr 5 13:06:09 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2008 14:06:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Grill (Andy's new boat not paid for) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47F7DBB1.4000701@newellboys.net> ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote: >==AM== >Steven, over $100 US EACH for what I believe is a used or possibly NOS >grille? Wow. Apparently I'm sitting on a goldmine, what with all the Heralds >around my house. Trouble is, I can't spare any grilles. (Sidebar: Neil Revington >once asked me, via e-mail, if I had grilles available!) Guess I'd better put >some security locks on all my Herald grilles, at least whenever I'm near a TR4 >project.... ;-) > Just to clarify, that's $100US for a PAIR of vent grills AND the ducts that go between the inner and outer wings. So guesstimate the Herald grill component at $25 each. Your Heralds should be safe without a cable lock through the grill. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 etc. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Apr 5 11:20:13 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 11:20:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Leaving headlights on In-Reply-To: <8315241.1207404048620.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <8315241.1207404048620.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <7A0E787E4C2347A7B820B491C46FFB53@GeoPC> I just carry the hand crank... low tech but effective. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Adrian Jones" > I also carry in the trunk one of those emergency > jump-starter/compressor/light things ($60)... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 5 14:39:12 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 13:39:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] Upper Wishbone TR3 In-Reply-To: <000601c89746$94eb90b0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <20080405203859.CGLI22170.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > Will probably still rent a compressor as there is no weight to counter > lifting the spring pan. (bare > chassis) Bill, perhaps I should point out that the common general-purpose spring compressors do not work well on TR2-6 front ends. There are purpose-made compressors available that work much better (and safer !) IMO; or you can fabricate your own without too much trouble. However the purpose-made compressors require that you first remove the bump stop and shock absorber ... so for just changing upper bushings, it might be better to just temporarily add some weight to the frame (if necessary). Ask a buddy to sit on it ... Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sat Apr 5 14:01:10 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 17:01:10 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A paint color Message-ID: Mine had alot of paint on it and I could find no red! Really bad brown, but no red. White then green then brown and I may be mistaken bu it may have been a white green two tone as well. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sat Apr 5 15:29:51 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 18:29:51 EDT Subject: [TR] Decoding Brit issue number ( licence ) plate? Message-ID: I found a old Brit ( I think ) number plate and would like to decode it. ( Year of issue, location, more? ) As my state does not issue front plates, there is a chance the number is USA issue and was built by the owner to match t he rear number plate. The plate has white numbers on a black background. The numbers are separate from the backing and have a pointed profile when viewed from the side. ( they look like a peaked house roof ) Thanks Harold ************** Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From wbeech at flash.net Sat Apr 5 15:47:09 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 16:47:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Decoding Brit issue number ( licence ) plate? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901c8976e$fc160f40$6401a8c0@sniffer> Sooo... What's the plate number? B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 4:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Decoding Brit issue number ( licence ) plate? I found a old Brit ( I think ) number plate and would like to decode it. ( Year of issue, location, more? ) As my state does not issue front plates, there is a chance the number is USA issue and was built by the owner to match t he rear number plate. The plate has white numbers on a black background. The numbers are separate from the backing and have a pointed profile when viewed from the side. ( they look like a peaked house roof ) Thanks Harold ************** Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Sat Apr 5 16:32:52 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 19:32:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Federal Tires In-Reply-To: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB4A9B@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> Message-ID: <003801c89775$5e9e9c80$0301a8c0@chuck> Thanks, David. That's the kind of information I was looking for. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: David Templeton [mailto:davidt at opentext.com] Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 11:16 AM To: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Federal Tires Chuck I have a set of Korean tires on the '3a. They are a medium compound tire and are the same size you mention. I got them for $50/cdn about 4yrs ago. They seem decent for ride :-) David '59 TR3a '74 Spitsix. ----- Original Message ----- From: triumphs-bounces+davidt=opentext.com at autox.team.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat Apr 05 10:09:13 2008 Subject: [TR] Federal Tires Greetings, Like several others on the list, I, too, am looking to re-shoe my 1965 TR4A with scarce 165/80R15 tires. I've seen your recommendations for Sumitomo and Kumhos but can't find anyone with them in stock. I have found a supply of Federals (a Korean tire I believe) but don't know anything about them. Does anyone on the list have any experience with or knowledge of the Federal tires? Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sat Apr 5 16:32:46 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 19:32:46 EDT Subject: [TR] ( forgot # ) Decoding Brit issue number ( licence ) plate? Message-ID: Forgot to list the # TLH 635 ************** Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From pryner at verizon.net Sat Apr 5 16:36:22 2008 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2008 19:36:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Upper Wishbone TR3 In-Reply-To: <000601c89746$94eb90b0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: Bill, I beat the compressor issue by putting a 55 gal drum in the engine bay and filling with water. Plenty of weight to hold the chasis down and just emptied the drum when finished. Back in those days there weren't many safe compressors. I couldn't find one to fit the springs on the car. I was on Guam at the time and had a lot of questions from the neighbors about why I had a drum in the engine bay. Always let to a good discussion. Good luck Pete -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Beecher Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 1:58 PM To: 'Randall'; 'triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Upper Wishbone TR3 Thanks Randall, I'll leave the fulcrum pin on the tower then. Will probably still rent a compressor as there is no weight to counter lifting the spring pan. (bare chassis) All the best, Bill -----Original Message----- From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 11:39 AM To: 'Bill Beecher'; 'triumphs' Subject: RE: [TR] Upper Wishbone TR3 > My question is this: Can I simply remove the castellated nut at the > junction of the wishbones the pull the upper fulcrum pin and do the > replacement on the bench? The problem with that approach is that one of the nuts for the bolts that hold the fulcrum pin is inside the spring housing, and nearly impossible to get to with the spring and suspension in the way. My suggestion would be to leave the fulcrum pin on the car, and just change the bushings there. Since replacement rubber bushings failed relatively quickly, I did this job several times before finally converting them to Nylatron. > Being as there is > no weight on the suspension, is anything under tension or do I need to > compress the road springs before removing the wishbone units? Likely depends on the car, but on my TR3A I found that I needed to compress the suspension just a bit in order to get room to remove the castellated nut. But just a floor jack and a block of wood under the spring pan worked fine, it only needs to be raised a little bit and the spring remains trapped by the shock & pan. Lift it up, remove the nut, lower it again, then pop the ball joint out of the upper arms. If the brake calipers are installed, have a piece of wire handy to support the vertical link, so it doesn't strain the brake hose. You're also supposed to have the suspension compressed when you tighten the nuts onto the new bushings. In retrospect, not doing that may be why the rubber bushings never lasted very long for me. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pryner at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From mmarr at notwires.com Sat Apr 5 17:30:07 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 19:30:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] ( forgot # ) Decoding Brit issue number ( licence ) plate? References: Message-ID: <004301c8977d$5e625d30$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > Forgot to list the # > > TLH 635 > ************** According to: http://www.londonbusroutes.net/miscellaneous/regs.htm#council this was a car number issued by the Greater London Council, prior to 1963. The first letter is a "counter" (i.e. A was first, then B etc.), so it was fairly late in the series of LH numbers. Maybe late 50s, early 60s? The embossed lettering you describeed was quite typical for plates back then, and the standard plate color was white (or silver) lettering on a black background. Later plates (from 1963, maybe, when the numbering system changed?) were black on yellow refelective paint for the rear plate and black on white refelectice paint for the front plate. For a while in the sixties you had a choice - you could use the traditional, non-reflective plates or the new reflective plates, but the bblack plates were eliminated some time in the 70s if I remember correctly. This was probably more than you wanted to know... Mike From DLylis at aol.com Sat Apr 5 17:31:00 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 20:31:00 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Hood/Trunk hinges Message-ID: Thanks to all. I would not leave the rack on for more than is necessary to transport "luggage" for four or five days. As I read the responses, the problem is more fade than paint wear due to vibration? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From deruiterville at hotmail.com Sat Apr 5 18:00:54 2008 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 20:00:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Grill (Andy's new boat not paid for) Message-ID: >Just to clarify, that's $100US for a PAIR of vent grills AND the ducts >that go between the inner and outer wings. So guesstimate the Herald >grill component at $25 each. Your Heralds should be safe without a cable >lock through the grill. Is that pricing confirmed from talking with Mr. Revington? I think RTR7060 gets you only one grille, but hopefully that is enough for both sides of the car. Then you have to order the ducts separately under part RTR7019. At least thats how I've been interpreting it as I'm also thinking of those rally vents. That is, if I every get brave enough to cut into some pretty reasonable fenders - I took some pictures of the vent set up on 4VC (Ian Cornish's car), and the fitting of those looks a little tricky. Regards, Randy _________________________________________________________________ Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_ Refresh_messenger_video_042008 From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Apr 5 18:13:00 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 21:13:00 EDT Subject: [TR] ( forgot # ) Decoding Brit issue number ( licence ) plate? Message-ID: In a message dated 4/5/2008 7:31:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > Forgot to list the # > > TLH 635 > ************** According to: http://www.londonbusroutes.net/miscellaneous/regs.htm#council this was a car number issued by the Greater London Council, prior to 1963. The first letter is a "counter" (i.e. A was first, then B etc.), so it was fairly late in the series of LH numbers. Maybe late 50s, early 60s? ==AM== Mike, sounds reasonable to me. But if "LH" was a Greater London series, I'd suspect that they might have run out of three-letter/three-number combinations some time in the 1950s and reversed them; in other words, later (but still pre-1963) plates from that office more likely would have read 635 TLH. But chances are one of our UK list members will know for sure? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From mmarr at notwires.com Sat Apr 5 18:54:46 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 20:54:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] ( forgot # ) Decoding Brit issue number ( licence ) plate? References: Message-ID: <006901c89789$33345300$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> A very good point Andy. In that case, the number would probably have been pre-1953, when the reversal you described first started to occur. Maybe it was a late 40s, early 50s plate and arrived in the USA on an MG? Mike Mike, sounds reasonable to me. But if "LH" was a Greater London series, I'd suspect that they might have run out of three-letter/three-number combinations some time in the 1950s and reversed them; in other words, later (but still pre-1963) plates from that office more likely would have read 635 TLH. But chances are one of our UK list members will know for sure? From peterara at msn.com Sat Apr 5 19:13:41 2008 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 19:13:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Zincless Oil Message-ID: >Mobil now claims their 15w-50 is now engineered for older vehicles... >It has a lot of ash (1.2%) to prevent ring sticking and oil analysis is showing it be well over 1,200 PPM zinc The problem isn't only zinc, the phosphorus is just as important. that is why the ZDDP additive or oils that have high zinc AND phosphorus. Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver From twakeman at razzolink.com Sun Apr 6 08:46:25 2008 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 07:46:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] ( forgot # ) Decoding Brit issue number ( licence ) plate? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47F8E241.7000508@razzolink.com> In case anyone wants a set of UK license plates to put on their TR3 under their US plates or on their walls, I have a set to sell. XHP938 Both are the narrow long steel type, black with silver lettering and both come with mounting plates. $35 plus shipping takes the pair. Looks like the property I'm on will be sold so I need to start shedding stuff with a pre-moving sale: If anyone is interested in Land Rovers I also have 2 UK dealer showroom plates, the kind that was mounted to a vehicle for advertising pictures. They are not in front of me but I believe one reads "NINETY V8" and the other reads "ONE TEN". Also on the chopping block will be several die cast TR3 models, & toys, a TR3 steering wheel, horn/turn signal assembly and original overdrive switch(s). Maybe my TR3 books since I need to reduce the wall full of books & haven't looked at the TR books since I completed my TR3 rebuild nearly a decade ago. Please let me know off the list if you are interested. Teiann From steven at newellboys.net Sun Apr 6 08:02:44 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 08:02:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] Grill (Andy's new boat paid for) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47F8D804.7080303@newellboys.net> Randy&Val DeRuiter wrote: >>Just to clarify, that's $100US for a PAIR of vent grills AND the ducts >>that go between the inner and outer wings. So guesstimate the Herald >>grill component at $25 each. Your Heralds should be safe without a cable >>lock through the grill. >> >> > >Is that pricing confirmed from talking with Mr. Revington? I think >RTR7060 gets you only one grille, but hopefully that is enough for both sides >of the car. Then you have to order the ducts separately under >part RTR7019. At least thats how I've been interpreting it as I'm also >thinking of those rally vents. > > Ouch, well looking at it again it appears the ducts and grills are sold as pairs and each, adding up to quite a bit. Revington likely ought to be more careful with a photograph showing several items, only one of which is included in the price. And I should be more careful with price checking. Andy, lock up your car. Steven From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Apr 6 08:41:32 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 10:41:32 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 cooling hoses Message-ID: In a message dated 4/5/2008 9:03:19 AM Central Daylight Time, rpeglow at optonline.net writes: > Spring is here. I'll be changing all the cooling hoses on my six. > I'll pull the thermostat and leave radiator cap off for draining. > Will coolent drain so heater will not drain into car? > No leaks/problems just trying to improve reliability for stop and go > driving > in hot weather. > I already have green hoses and clips set. > Any and all thoughts/suggestions appreciated. > Regards, > Bob > If you are referring to coolant draining into the car when the heater hoses are removed fromt he heater and bulkhead fittings, yes it will. I recommend removing the foot well carpet, laying down plenty of towels and have a bucket handy. You won't get much (about a pint) but the lines are a low spot and you can't drain them from the engine side. Dave From jgillis at tcd.ie Sun Apr 6 10:08:42 2008 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 17:08:42 +0100 Subject: [TR] h/brake cable spring Message-ID: <0188DF09-266F-4CAC-8E99-458213D338F6@tcd.ie> Quick one for TR2 - where along the h/brake cable (under the floorpan) does the spring go and to what does it attach at the other end, I am guessing its function is to keep the cable from snagging on projections on the road, like run-over dogs etc. Regards John From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 6 12:52:07 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 14:52:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? Message-ID: <002201c89817$509c9d10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am just now hooking up my taillights/stoplights on my '60 TR3A. I wonder if it wouldn't be smart to somehow drop a small drop of solder down into the male bullet connectors to stop them from twisting and turning within the connectors? On the other hand, OTOH?, A man at NAPA told me not to solder car wiring systems. Surely, Lucas's looseness limits lighting? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 TS71k -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 286 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From spitlist at cox.net Sun Apr 6 13:00:21 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 12:00:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? In-Reply-To: <002201c89817$509c9d10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <002201c89817$509c9d10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <000c01c89818$76a0dcf0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> IMHO it is not the looseness that causes the problems but the corrosion that occurs that will break the circuit. One might lead to the other but the culprit is moisture which seeps into the connection because the connectors are exposed to the elements. Solder connections will of course make a better circuit but vibrations in the car will weaken the connection and the solder connection is then much more difficult to correct because it is keeping the two parts fixed together. Ultimately, the best fix is to replace all the connectors with modern moisture proof connectors but then your car would not be original and that is a lot of work. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 11:52 AM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? I am just now hooking up my taillights/stoplights on my '60 TR3A. I wonder if it wouldn't be smart to somehow drop a small drop of solder down into the male bullet connectors to stop them from twisting and turning within the connectors? On the other hand, OTOH?, A man at NAPA told me not to solder car wiring systems. Surely, Lucas's looseness limits lighting? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 TS71k From 60TR3A at cox.net Sun Apr 6 13:36:31 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 12:36:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? In-Reply-To: <000c01c89818$76a0dcf0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <002201c89817$509c9d10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <000c01c89818$76a0dcf0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: Another way to improve bullet connections is to crimp the bullet onto the wire. I have to admit, that when I rewired my TR3 I bought one of the crimpers, but I never was able to get what I thought was a good crimp. Others on the list, e.g., Bob Danielson, have said they will never solder again. BTW, the FAA does NOT allow soldered connections for exactly Joe Curry mentions below - vibrations causing breaks in the wire at the solder! I have a colleague who is building his own aircraft, and it only uses crimped bullet connects! John On 6 Apr, 2008, at 12:00 PM, Joe Curry wrote: > IMHO it is not the looseness that causes the problems but the > corrosion that > occurs that will break the circuit. > > One might lead to the other but the culprit is moisture which seeps > into the > connection because the connectors are exposed to the elements. > > Solder connections will of course make a better circuit but > vibrations in > the car will weaken the connection and the solder connection is then > much > more difficult to correct because it is keeping the two parts fixed > together. > > Ultimately, the best fix is to replace all the connectors with modern > moisture proof connectors but then your car would not be original > and that > is a lot of work. > > Joe C. > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > dorpaul > Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 11:52 AM > To: list Triumph > Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? > > I am just now hooking up my taillights/stoplights on my '60 TR3A. I > wonder > if > it wouldn't be smart to somehow drop a small drop of solder down > into the > male > bullet connectors to stop them from twisting and turning within the > connectors? > > On the other hand, OTOH?, A man at NAPA told me not to solder car > wiring > systems. > > Surely, Lucas's looseness limits lighting? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 TS71k > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Sun Apr 6 13:46:59 2008 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 15:46:59 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 Body Fit Message-ID: One possible buyer for my early 1962 TR4 body shell would like to use it on his 1966 TR4A frame. It appears the body will fit with no problem but we are not sure. What is the collective wisdom here? Thanks! George Haynes ************** Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Apr 6 16:24:09 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 16:24:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Zincless Oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47F94D89.2080809@tscusa.org> Peter Arakelian wrote: >> Mobil now claims their 15w-50 is now engineered for older vehicles... >> It has a lot of ash (1.2%) to prevent >> > ring > sticking and oil analysis is showing it be well over 1,200 PPM zinc > > > > The problem isn't only zinc, the phosphorus is just as important. that is why > the ZDDP additive or oils that have high zinc AND phosphorus. > > Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver > > I was wondering with all this discussion on proper oils - that maybe someone explained previously - exactly what are the differences in our older engines composition - ring to cylinder wall, valve stem to guide, valve to seat, bearing journal to bearing, cam shaft to follower that makes new oils - apparently completely unsuitable for older engines? So I suppose the question is, what are the changes in metals and changes in the oil composition lubricating those metals that makes the oils destructive to older engines? It seems a logical question that motor oils are developed to lubricate metal to metal contact, reduce friction, and carry away impurities. Anyone have any definitive facts with actual testing, or are we dealing with the usual "someone put it up on their web site so it must be fact" ? I think this is something that needs to be pursued by the automotive engineers on these lists and given a complete report. This information, substantiated or debunked, can make a real difference in the longevity of our old LBC's, and once properly investigated should be made available and properly footnoted with reliable references. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 6 16:58:53 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 18:58:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] First Start Up Message-ID: <000001c89839$cadeb550$210110ac@bobspc> I shared this gem with some TR friends today but it's time to share it with everyone.....I got the engine and 5 speed installed last Sunday and spent the week getting all the engine pieces, cooling system, driveshaft etc. hooked up. Today was the day to start her up. Turned on the key, listened for the electric fuel pump...so far so good...turned the key more and the dormant TBI system fired her right up.......except for that incessant screeching! OMG....it's the pilot bushing on the end on the tranny input shaft. I've got to pull the tranny to fix. I go in the house and my wife says..."I heard the car start right up but it sounds like a belt or something squealing". Back to the garage, loosen the alternator and the new belt and fire it up again. Now it's just a squeal, quiet, squeal, quiet.....as I look at the alternator, I realize that the alternator fan is hitting the bracket! A slight adjustment and all is happy in Hooville! God, I love my wife! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jmitch at snet.net Sun Apr 6 18:51:22 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 20:51:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cleaning halogen headlight housing Message-ID: <47F9700A.3070801@snet.net> Anybody have a good technique for cleaning the inside of a 7" halogen headlight housing. There just dusty inside, but rinsing leaves the reflector with water spots. Thanks for any advice, John Mitchell 76tr6 From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Apr 6 18:56:42 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 20:56:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cleaning halogen headlight housing In-Reply-To: <47F9700A.3070801@snet.net> Message-ID: <47F9390A.8578.FD1DF9@localhost> On 6 Apr 2008 at 20:51, John Mitchell wrote: > There just dusty inside, but rinsing leaves > the reflector with water spots. Have you tried rinsing with a dilute solution of one of those dishwasher additives designed to prevent spotting or a dishwasher soap like Cascade? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Apr 6 19:18:09 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 21:18:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] h/brake cable spring In-Reply-To: <0188DF09-266F-4CAC-8E99-458213D338F6@tcd.ie> References: <0188DF09-266F-4CAC-8E99-458213D338F6@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <000301c8984d$3e2fc180$abb97f18@Scott> John: There should be a small metal tab that has a small hole in it that sticks out from the under side of the rear shelf that the rear seat fits over. It is behind where the floor pans are welded. The one end of the spring hooks into this hole and the other end just attaches over the cable casing. It is a taunt fit but holds it in place. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 12:09 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] h/brake cable spring Quick one for TR2 - where along the h/brake cable (under the floorpan) does the spring go and to what does it attach at the other end, I am guessing its function is to keep the cable from snagging on projections on the road, like run-over dogs etc. Regards John _______________________________________________ From wdaehler at wi.rr.com Sun Apr 6 19:22:33 2008 From: wdaehler at wi.rr.com (Will Daehler) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 20:22:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line Message-ID: <000001c8984d$dbaeaa20$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Who went driving in a Triumph this weekend? Inquiring minds want to know. Here in Milwaukee I was able to finally get out to the garage without stepping through any snow banks. Sure there's a bit of snow left in the heavily shaded areas, but winter is just about over, and I found a path. It's almost time to get out and drive! It broke 50 degrees today, but at no point was there even a hint of warmth in the air, as it there was just a penetrating chill off Lake Michigan. Onto the topic, I was checking out my car, and noticed the vacuum advance line was broken again, right where it mounts under the SU carburetor. Hey, I just replaced it two years ago. It's broken already? I'm sure it's caused by the engine vibration, where the metal fatigues right next to the connection point. Anyway, is there anyway to repair this and avoid the gouge? Do I need a two-fisted bubble flaring tool? Will in Wisconsin 63 TR4 Powder Blue From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Apr 6 19:30:39 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 21:30:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line In-Reply-To: <000001c8984d$dbaeaa20$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Message-ID: <47F940FF.29681.11C3042@localhost> On 6 Apr 2008 at 20:22, Will Daehler wrote: > Who went driving in a Triumph this weekend? Alas, not I. The band I play in had gigs all weekend. However I did drive the GT6 to work Thursday and Friday, which by my reckoning took place even before this weekend! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Apr 6 19:55:43 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 21:55:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Cleaning halogen headlight housing Message-ID: In a message dated 4/6/2008 7:51:57 PM Central Daylight Time, jmitch at snet.net writes: > Anybody have a good technique for cleaning the inside of a 7" > halogen headlight housing. There just dusty inside, but rinsing leaves > the reflector with water spots. Thanks for any advice, John Mitchell > Dinse with distilled water (available at your hardware store) Dave From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 6 20:00:02 2008 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 21:00:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line In-Reply-To: <000001c8984d$dbaeaa20$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Message-ID: I went for a short drive in my spitfire after having it surprise me. Let me explain. I tried to start it in December and after a number of tries the starter stopped working and all I got was a click. When I opened the hood there was smoke coming out of the wire at the starter. I grabbed my fire extinguisher but no fire. So thought that I had let all of the smoke out of the starter. I finally had time to work on the car Saturday and I thought that I might as well see if anything happens when I turn the key. Lo and behold the starter worked and I could not smell any smoke, so I cranked it and it started. I let it warm up and it seemed happy and it was a beautiful day in St. Louis so I took it for a short drive. I guess I still need to try and find out what happened so that I don't burn anything up but it sure made me feel better to drive it. -- Bob Berger 78 Spitfire - Pageant Blue St. Louis MO > From: Will Daehler > Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 20:22:33 -0500 > To: > Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 > Vacuum Advance Line > > Who went driving in a Triumph this weekend? > > Inquiring minds want to know. Here in Milwaukee I was able to finally get > out to the garage without stepping through any snow banks. Sure there's a > bit of snow left in the heavily shaded areas, but winter is just about over, > and I found a path. > > It's almost time to get out and drive! It broke 50 degrees today, but at no > point was there even a hint of warmth in the air, as it there was just a > penetrating chill off Lake Michigan. > > Onto the topic, I was checking out my car, and noticed the vacuum advance > line was broken again, right where it mounts under the SU carburetor. Hey, > I just replaced it two years ago. It's broken already? I'm sure it's caused > by the engine vibration, where the metal fatigues right next to the > connection point. > > Anyway, is there anyway to repair this and avoid the gouge? Do I need a > two-fisted bubble flaring tool? > > > Will in Wisconsin > 63 TR4 Powder Blue > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as bberger720 at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Apr 6 20:05:34 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 20:05:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line In-Reply-To: <47F940FF.29681.11C3042@localhost> References: <47F940FF.29681.11C3042@localhost> Message-ID: <47F9816E.40008@tscusa.org> Jim Muller wrote: > On 6 Apr 2008 at 20:22, Will Daehler wrote: > > >> Who went driving in a Triumph this weekend? >> > > Alas, not I. The band I play in had gigs all weekend. However I did > drive the GT6 to work Thursday and Friday, which by my reckoning took > place even before this weekend! > > I did in the Stag until I realized that I have to install my new headers ASAP - sometime in a CO induced fog fortunately with the top down. So after a bit of detox, the car is on the lift getting the new headers sized for modification. Header wrap is great going on, but taking it off the old units is nasty. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Apr 6 20:07:01 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 20:07:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cleaning halogen headlight housing In-Reply-To: <47F9700A.3070801@snet.net> References: <47F9700A.3070801@snet.net> Message-ID: <47F981C5.6080501@tscusa.org> A dilute solution of alcohol and water works great for me as a rinse. John Mitchell wrote: > Anybody have a good technique for cleaning the inside of a 7" > halogen headlight housing. There just dusty inside, but rinsing leaves > the reflector with water spots. Thanks for any advice, John Mitchell > 76tr6 -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From pethier at comcast.net Sun Apr 6 20:11:52 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 02:11:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] Cleaning halogen headlight housing Message-ID: <040720080211.6840.47F982E80002315C00001AB822155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Dave1massey at cs.com > In a message dated 4/6/2008 7:51:57 PM Central Daylight Time, jmitch at snet.net > writes: > > Anybody have a good technique for cleaning the inside of a 7" > > halogen headlight housing. There just dusty inside, but rinsing leaves > > the reflector with water spots. Thanks for any advice, John Mitchell > > > Dinse with distilled water (available at your hardware store) And your grocery store. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From N197TR4 at cs.com Sun Apr 6 20:20:14 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 22:20:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR travel this weekend Message-ID: <7F8034B1.77E0DF47.00159EE9@cs.com> TR3A TS30854L found its way around Jesup for errands this weekend From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Apr 6 20:21:17 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 22:21:17 EDT Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum A... Message-ID: In a message dated 4/6/2008 9:00:36 PM Central Daylight Time, bberger720 at sbcglobal.net writes: > Let me explain. I tried to start it in December and after a number of > tries > the starter stopped working and all I got was a click. When I opened the > hood there was smoke coming out of the wire at the starter. I grabbed my > fire extinguisher but no fire. So thought that I had let all of the smoke > out of the starter. > > I finally had time to work on the car Saturday and I thought that I might as > well see if anything happens when I turn the key. Lo and behold the starter > worked and I could not smell any smoke, so I cranked it and it started. > > I let it warm up and it seemed happy and it was a beautiful day in St. Louis > so I took it for a short drive. > > I guess I still need to try and find out what happened so that I don't burn > anything up but it sure made me feel better to drive it. > Bob, the smoke was probably from the connection where the wire is bolted onto the starter terminal. A little corosion created some resistance at the interface and the starter current created a bunch of heat. The heat may have caused the terminal to weld itself to the terminal. I suggest you take that connection apart and clean all surfaces and put it back together. (Be sure to disconnect the battery first.) Cheers Dave Massey 57 TR3 71 TR6 80 TR8 From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 6 20:33:38 2008 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 21:33:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum A... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Dave, That's exactly where the smoke was coming from. I won't have time for a couple of weeks to get to this but I'll take this connection apart and clean it up. Bob Berger 78 Spitfire - Pageant Blue St. Louis MO > Bob, the smoke was probably from the connection where the wire is bolted onto > the starter terminal. A little corosion created some resistance at the > interface and the starter current created a bunch of heat. The heat may have > caused the terminal to weld itself to the terminal. > > I suggest you take that connection apart and clean all surfaces and put it > back together. (Be sure to disconnect the battery first.) From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sun Apr 6 21:20:02 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 23:20:02 EDT Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? Message-ID: In a message dated 4/6/2008 9:22:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wdaehler at wi.rr.com writes: Who went driving in a Triumph this weekend? ==AM== I took the Herald out to meet a younger sibling Sports 1200 convertible and its new owner. Had a great time chatting and ogling each others' cars...and eventually determined that we'd met about 30 years ago...when he bought some parts from me for his first Herald! (Neither of us remembers what he bought.) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 6 21:25:21 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 22:25:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line References: <000001c8984d$dbaeaa20$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Message-ID: <008201c8985f$05594270$7c15a8c0@garage.local> > Who went driving in a Triumph this weekend? > was out quite a bit on Saturday in the TR6; had the top (hood) up in the morning, but top down later in the day. in a few minutes i'm going to go run "the cloverleaf," a place where two interstates intersect and you can go round and round and round squealing tires (if you don't run into traffic). there are two such places i know of here in dallas/fort worth. look for them - they're fun! From cak at dimebank.com Sun Apr 6 23:44:04 2008 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 22:44:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? Message-ID: <200804070544.m375i498025536@moose.dimebank.com> British Wiring will sell you the proper crimping tool for the Lucas bullet connectors. I initially balked at the price, but then was very glad that I bought one. I crimp when I make repairs, and replace the female connector blocks if there's any doubt. I assemble with lithium grease, which does a good job of excluding moisture. The factory soldered the bullets on using a solder pot. I've tried to solder a couple on with big Weller soldering gun and believe me, crimping is way easier. Best, chris From twakeman at razzolink.com Mon Apr 7 07:10:21 2008 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 06:10:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? In-Reply-To: <200804070544.m375i498025536@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200804070544.m375i498025536@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <47FA1D3D.4050801@razzolink.com> > The factory soldered the bullets on using a solder pot. I've tried > to solder a couple on with big Weller soldering gun and believe me, > crimping is way easier. The factory soldered them so I did too. It is a slow process but I figure it eliminated internal space where corrosion might occur. And of course I also assembled the connectors with the dielectric grease to help keep moisture out. And I never reused the female connectors as I do not have a good way to insure the internal corrosion is cleaned out. Teriann From fishplate at charter.net Mon Apr 7 06:57:28 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 5:57:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line In-Reply-To: <008201c8985f$05594270$7c15a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <20080407085728.X8TQY.3373.root@fepweb06> ---- Oliver wrote: > > Who went driving in a Triumph this weekend? > > > > was out quite a bit on Saturday in the TR6; had the top (hood) up in the > morning, but top down later in the day. New tires on the Spitfire on Sunday, had to go test them out; it wasn't my first top-down outing this year though. > in a few minutes i'm going to go > run "the cloverleaf," a place where two interstates intersect and you can go > round and round and round squealing tires (if you don't run into traffic). > there are two such places i know of here in dallas/fort worth. > > look for them - they're fun! When I lived in Atlanta, there was a series of exits on I-85 that had left lane crossovers...the extreme left lane of the exit led to a bridge over the interstate that dumped you back on the Interstate in the opposite direction. You could go round and round and round without stopping, just like Talledega... Jeff Scarbrough Athens Ga. Spitfires and a TR6 From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Mon Apr 7 07:12:38 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 09:12:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? In-Reply-To: <000001c8984d$dbaeaa20$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> References: <000001c8984d$dbaeaa20$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Message-ID: <35FDEC3E-3DEF-4937-A495-22E55E7BDDDF@mindspring.com> Driving? On the weekend? Hmm, yeah, I guess we did a little of that yesterday. A flock of assorted foreign metal took to the mountains of north Georgia yesterday and it was awesome! Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 On Apr 6, 2008, at 9:22 PM, Will Daehler wrote: > Who went driving in a Triumph this weekend? > > Inquiring minds want to know. Here in Milwaukee I was able to > finally get > out to the garage without stepping through any snow banks. Sure > there's a > bit of snow left in the heavily shaded areas, but winter is just > about over, > and I found a path. > > It's almost time to get out and drive! It broke 50 degrees today, > but at no > point was there even a hint of warmth in the air, as it there was > just a > penetrating chill off Lake Michigan. > > Onto the topic, I was checking out my car, and noticed the vacuum > advance > line was broken again, right where it mounts under the SU > carburetor. Hey, > I just replaced it two years ago. It's broken already? I'm sure > it's caused > by the engine vibration, where the metal fatigues right next to the > connection point. > > Anyway, is there anyway to repair this and avoid the gouge? Do I > need a > two-fisted bubble flaring tool? > > > Will in Wisconsin > 63 TR4 Powder Blue From flashtr3 at cox.net Mon Apr 7 07:22:04 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 06:22:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line References: <000001c8984d$dbaeaa20$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Message-ID: <004501c898b2$5ef60040$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Here in sunny Las Vegas we are in 70's and what a nice day to be driving TR6. Hooked up with some other members in the club and cruised around the Red Rock area of Las Vegas. Sorry your weather hasn't been as nice as ours. See you down the road...Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Will Daehler To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 6:22 PM Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line Who went driving in a Triumph this weekend? Inquiring minds want to know. Here in Milwaukee I was able to finally get out to the garage without stepping through any snow banks. Sure there's a bit of snow left in the heavily shaded areas, but winter is just about over, and I found a path. It's almost time to get out and drive! It broke 50 degrees today, but at no point was there even a hint of warmth in the air, as it there was just a penetrating chill off Lake Michigan. Onto the topic, I was checking out my car, and noticed the vacuum advance line was broken again, right where it mounts under the SU carburetor. Hey, I just replaced it two years ago. It's broken already? I'm sure it's caused by the engine vibration, where the metal fatigues right next to the connection point. Anyway, is there anyway to repair this and avoid the gouge? Do I need a two-fisted bubble flaring tool? Will in Wisconsin 63 TR4 Powder Blue _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From fishplate at charter.net Mon Apr 7 07:29:32 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 6:29:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line In-Reply-To: <000001c8984d$dbaeaa20$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Message-ID: <20080407092932.K5P5E.4714.root@fepweb06> ---- Will Daehler wrote: > Onto the topic, I was checking out my car, and noticed the vacuum advance > line was broken again, right where it mounts under the SU carburetor. > > Anyway, is there anyway to repair this and avoid the gouge? Do I need a > two-fisted bubble flaring tool? I was feeling so smug about my driving adventures, I forgot to answer the question... I'm not positive, but I think that's just a standard compression fitting, available at any good hardware store. slip the bead over the tubing, and tighten it up. Jeff Scarbrough Athens, Ga. Flying Formations Of Rust From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 08:54:42 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 14:54:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line In-Reply-To: References: <000001c8984d$dbaeaa20$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Message-ID: My car is still on stands while I replace the exhaust. I did however fire it up and warm it up on the stands with only the headers connected. Wow what a sound. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ More immediate than e-mail? Get instant access with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ instantaccess_042008 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 09:05:28 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 15:05:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? In-Reply-To: <47FA1D3D.4050801@razzolink.com> References: <200804070544.m375i498025536@moose.dimebank.com> <47FA1D3D.4050801@razzolink.com> Message-ID: When I went through the wiring on my car I soldered every connector. I also shrink wrapped the wire to the connector so vibration would be reduced. I haven't had an electrical problem since. Best regards, Tom > Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 06:10:21 -0700 > From: twakeman at razzolink.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? > > > The factory soldered the bullets on using a solder pot. I've tried > > to solder a couple on with big Weller soldering gun and believe me, > > crimping is way easier. > > The factory soldered them so I did too. It is a slow process but I > figure it eliminated internal space where corrosion might occur. And of > course I also assembled the connectors with the dielectric grease to > help keep moisture out. And I never reused the female connectors as I > do not have a good way to insure the internal corrosion is cleaned out. > > Teriann > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Pack up or back upuse SkyDrive to transfer files or keep extra copies. Learn how. hthttp://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh _skydrive_packup_042008 From wbeech at flash.net Mon Apr 7 09:06:13 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 09:06:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line In-Reply-To: <47F9816E.40008@tscusa.org> References: <47F940FF.29681.11C3042@localhost> <47F9816E.40008@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <001f01c898c0$ed97a3e0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Let's see.... I drove to the body shop where I was told he was so busy this week that he did not work on my TR3 at all. Wednesday I intend to drive to the engine shop to take the new pistons/sleeves for the 3 week rebuild that is now into week eight. Yeah, I guess I did go driving this weekend. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn A. Merrell Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 8:06 PM To: jimmuller at rcn.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? And also: Another Broken TR4 Vacuum Advance Line Jim Muller wrote: > On 6 Apr 2008 at 20:22, Will Daehler wrote: > > >> Who went driving in a Triumph this weekend? >> > > Alas, not I. The band I play in had gigs all weekend. However I did > drive the GT6 to work Thursday and Friday, which by my reckoning took > place even before this weekend! > > I did in the Stag until I realized that I have to install my new headers ASAP - sometime in a CO induced fog fortunately with the top down. So after a bit of detox, the car is on the lift getting the new headers sized for modification. Header wrap is great going on, but taking it off the old units is nasty. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From cak at dimebank.com Mon Apr 7 10:01:59 2008 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 09:01:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 165-15 tires in the midwest? Message-ID: <200804071601.m37G1xYa020743@moose.dimebank.com> I got a call over the weekend from a gentleman with a 4A, looking for a performance tire in 165-15. When I stopped laughing, we had a serious discussion about the limited choices in our favorite size. He's in Wisconsin, and apparently the only thing he's managed to find is Coker's Michelin X tires at $200/corner; Tire Rack doesn't have anything (perhaps temporary) and Discount tire is apparently no longer carrying their house brand 165. Does anyone in that part of the country have better recent data? Thanks, chris From pethier at comcast.net Mon Apr 7 10:09:59 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 16:09:59 +0000 Subject: [TR] 165-15 tires in the midwest? Message-ID: <040720081609.20002.47FA47560007524100004E2222155538949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> I you want REAL performance, there are always Formula Vee racing tires. but they are not legal for street use. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Chris Kantarjiev > I got a call over the weekend from a gentleman with a 4A, looking > for a performance tire in 165-15. When I stopped laughing, we had > a serious discussion about the limited choices in our favorite size. > > He's in Wisconsin, and apparently the only thing he's managed to > find is Coker's Michelin X tires at $200/corner; Tire Rack doesn't > have anything (perhaps temporary) and Discount tire is apparently > no longer carrying their house brand 165. > > Does anyone in that part of the country have better recent data? > > Thanks, > chris > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Mon Apr 7 10:14:09 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 10:14:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] 165-15 tires in the midwest? In-Reply-To: <200804071601.m37G1xYa020743@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200804071601.m37G1xYa020743@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <003b01c898ca$6b189cd0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Khumho 165/80-15 does very nicely at a reasonable cost. Phil runs them on his TR4 in St. Paul and speaks well of them. Phil? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Kantarjiev Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 10:02 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 165-15 tires in the midwest? I got a call over the weekend from a gentleman with a 4A, looking for a performance tire in 165-15. When I stopped laughing, we had a serious discussion about the limited choices in our favorite size. He's in Wisconsin, and apparently the only thing he's managed to find is Coker's Michelin X tires at $200/corner; Tire Rack doesn't have anything (perhaps temporary) and Discount tire is apparently no longer carrying their house brand 165. Does anyone in that part of the country have better recent data? Thanks, chris This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Apr 7 10:47:14 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 09:47:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Who went driving this weekend? In-Reply-To: <20080407085728.X8TQY.3373.root@fepweb06> References: <20080407085728.X8TQY.3373.root@fepweb06> Message-ID: Casper and I (along with a Navigator) ran the UBSCC April Fools Rallye ... 160 miles total and of course TDATW ... according to Ms Garmin we averaged 28.9 mph overall with a moving avg. of 32.7. Max Speed was 84.7 (I am sure that was just a brief spurt) ... The afternoon started with a nice 65 F, but by the time we finished, and had our Pizza at the awards party (we were skunked), it was 7:30 PM and dark, with still an hour to go to reach home ... Luckily, we had planned ahead and had several layers of coats and sweaters in the trunk, left the top and side curtains home. It was however a "refreshing" ride home. -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Apr 7 10:50:17 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 09:50:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? In-Reply-To: <47FA1D3D.4050801@razzolink.com> References: <200804070544.m375i498025536@moose.dimebank.com> <47FA1D3D.4050801@razzolink.com> Message-ID: Wouldn't it be simpler, and more efficient in the long run to just replace those lousy bullets with modern insulated spade connectors? You wouldn't have to do it all at once, just replace the bad ones as they failed, or pulled apart, broke, burned, gave up, or just plain did not work. > > The factory soldered the bullets on using a solder pot. I've tried >> to solder a couple on with big Weller soldering gun and believe me, >> crimping is way easier. > >The factory soldered them so I did too. It is a slow process but I >figure it eliminated internal space where corrosion might occur. And of >course I also assembled the connectors with the dielectric grease to >help keep moisture out. And I never reused the female connectors as I >do not have a good way to insure the internal corrosion is cleaned out. > >Teriann -- Bill Pugh anabil007@ comcast.net Wallace, CA From richhalpern at verizon.net Mon Apr 7 10:57:03 2008 From: richhalpern at verizon.net (richhalpern at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 11:57:03 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 Body Fit Message-ID: <16197050.4617571207587423181.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net> George, See below: One possible buyer for my early 1962 TR4 body shell would like to use it on his 1966 TR4A frame. It appears the body will fit with no problem but we are not sure. What is the collective wisdom here? Depending on whether your floors were ever replaced, the holes from the body to the TR4A frame might not line up in the rear. I know when I replaced my floors on my early TR4, the new floor pans had rear holes drilled for the 4A and I had to drill the holes for the 4, and had to plug the rear holes for the 4A. Older floor pans have no such place for the 4A rear holes to exist. Regards, Rich 61TR4 From cak at dimebank.com Mon Apr 7 11:18:03 2008 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 10:18:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47FA574B.7020208@dimebank.com> > Wouldn't it be simpler, and more efficient in the long run to just > replace those lousy bullets with modern insulated spade connectors? > You wouldn't have to do it all at once, just replace the bad ones as > they failed, or pulled apart, broke, burned, gave up, or just plain > did not work. I'm not a fan of hand-made spade connections. To do this well, you still need a good-quality ratcheting (expensive) crimp tool (not the cheap unit that comes with the $15 assortment). Unless you shop carefully, the insulation on the connectors has a tendency to crack when crimped, and the lifetime is short. The same moisture issues exist. I don't really see that it "fixes" anything. The Lucas bullet design is really quite good, when used correctly - the bullets by their nature have built in vibration support, because the insulated portion of the wire goes up into the bullet and forms a solid mechanical junction at the end of the wire. You don't have to strip the wire to length as carefully as with the spade connectors to get a good joint, because you can trim the bare section after the crimp if you got it too long. Here's my favorite discussion of crimp vs solder: http://www.dimebank.com/misc/soldered_connections.html From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Apr 7 15:17:30 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 14:17:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] 165-15 tires in the midwest? References: Message-ID: <000f01c898f4$c9ec5510$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Try these guys? http://www.dbtires.com/ Regards, Bob > > Message: 16 > Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 09:01:59 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chris Kantarjiev > Subject: [TR] 165-15 tires in the midwest? > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <200804071601.m37G1xYa020743 at moose.dimebank.com> > > I got a call over the weekend from a gentleman with a 4A, looking > for a performance tire in 165-15. When I stopped laughing, we had > a serious discussion about the limited choices in our favorite size. > > He's in Wisconsin, and apparently the only thing he's managed to > find is Coker's Michelin X tires at $200/corner; Tire Rack doesn't > have anything (perhaps temporary) and Discount tire is apparently > no longer carrying their house brand 165. > > Does anyone in that part of the country have better recent data? > > Thanks, > chris From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Apr 7 11:41:19 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 13:41:19 EDT Subject: [TR] First Start Up Message-ID: Bob, Ahh - the perceptive powers of the female ear!! I've learned over the years (35) not to ignore my wife's responses regarding strange noises from my machines (cars, tractors, etc.). It's just amazing to me how her "untrained" ear can help me solve these puzzles with the simplest of descriptions like "it sorta sounds like some crickets in a can".....(now, you gotta ask, when was the last time she heard crickets in can...) Congrats on a successful Start-Up! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 4/6/2008 3:59:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: A slight adjustment and all is happy in Hooville! God, I love my wife! **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From pethier at comcast.net Mon Apr 7 11:56:43 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 17:56:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] First Start Up Message-ID: <040720081756.4382.47FA605B0001DCBB0000111E22155538949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Chip19474 at aol.com > Bob, > > Ahh - the perceptive powers of the female ear!! I've learned over the years > (35) not to ignore my wife's responses regarding strange noises from my > machines (cars, tractors, etc "There is nothing that can go wrong with a car that sounds like a tumbler full of pins," he said. She sat back, lit a cigarette, and waited. - James Thurber -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Mon Apr 7 12:01:03 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 18:01:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] 165-15 tires in the midwest? Message-ID: <040720081801.19687.47FA615E0003595600004CE722155538949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "wbeech" > Khumho 165/80-15 does very nicely at a reasonable cost. Phil runs them on > his TR4 in St. Paul and speaks well of them. Phil? They have changed the designation since I bought my Kumho Euro Metric 165-15 tires in 2002, but Kumho seems to make good tires. I have been happy with mine. Two trophies at VTR National Convention autocrosses. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From dkspence at telus.net Mon Apr 7 12:14:02 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 12:14:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Better yet, pull them apart, clean them, slip an inch and a half of heat shrink tubing over the wire, reconnect and shrink the tube to seal the joint. Do as needed or as you have the energy. On 7-Apr-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > From: Bill & AnnaBelle > Date: April 7, 2008 10:50:17 AM MDT (CA) > To: TeriAnn Wakeman , triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? > > > Wouldn't it be simpler, and more efficient in the long run to > just replace those lousy bullets with modern insulated spade > connectors? You wouldn't have to do it all at once, just replace > the bad ones as they failed, or pulled apart, broke, burned, gave > up, or just plain did not work. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 7 13:34:59 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 15:34:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] horns won't work Message-ID: <005c01c898e6$7836daa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Is there something I'm forgetting to do to make my TR3 horns work? Although neither horn is hooked up to my TR3, they don't really make a 'blare' at all when I hold their two wires to the positive and negative posts of my 12v family car battery. If i reverse the wires/posts (reverse the polarity) they still don't blow. I am trying them individually. Also, I think when the connection is being made, they do, however, make the hiss echo that a phonograph record needle makes (before or after the song- but not as loud). What am I forgetting? Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 286 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Apr 7 13:47:32 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 15:47:32 EDT Subject: [TR] horns won't work Message-ID: In a message dated 4/7/2008 12:36:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes: Although neither horn is hooked up to my TR3, they don't really make a 'blare' at all when I hold their two wires to the positive and negative posts of my 12v family car battery. If i reverse the wires/posts (reverse the polarity) they still don't blow. I am trying them individually. Also, I think when the connection is being made, they do, however, make the hiss echo that a phonograph record needle makes (before or after the song- but not as loud). What am I forgetting? Paul, What I have had to do is this: 1. Remove cover of horn, 2. Use some fine emery cloth to clean the contacts. 3. Loosen screws which adjust the points while applying power until you habvethe best horn sound. Tighten locking nut on adjusting screw. Good Luck! Mike Moore **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Mon Apr 7 14:16:15 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 16:16:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] SF Bay Area Britmeet Moves to new venue for 2008 Message-ID: <33284294.1207599375505.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> THE BRITISH CAR MEET b" 2008 Sierra Point Marina b" Brisbane, CA Saturday & Sunday b" September 6th & 7th Join us for one of the most historic British automotive events in California at our new dockside venue at the Sierra Point Marina. This is essentially the popular Palo Alto meet in ia new location. Over 400 quirky, classic & thoroughly lovable British cars are once again expected to grace the lawn and adjacent parking area in Brisbane, California. We are also expecting another great display of automotive oddities provided by the Arcane Auto Society. Spectators attend & park for free. b" SUNDAY SHOW - SEPTEMBER 7th Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the Marina. Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods and works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. British food, jazz, & more fun than you'll be able to tolerate! Awards in many classes. There will be no preregistration - all entrants will receive a commemorative gift. Cars will be placed at 9:00AM and the fun goes on all day. The registration fee is still $25 per car at the gate. b" SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 6th The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at the Sierra Point Marina boathouse (the same place as the Sunday Car Show) and winds through the hills to the sea. Itbs no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as show them. We will be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:30AM. A map will be provided. The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres and telling tall tales in the car park well into the afternoon. b" DIRECTIONS: The Brisbane Marina is lacated just east of the Bayshore Freeway (101) between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just take the Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the Marina. Trailer parking will be available on-site. Call for information: 310-392-6605 e-mail: Sierra Point Marina Britmeet From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Mon Apr 7 14:36:35 2008 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 16:36:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Clutch advice Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F016A8D4C@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> Howdy all: I've got an issue with the clutch on my TR250, and would love advice from the collective. I've got a relatively new clutch in the car (about 1000 miles). Installation of the clutch was the last piece of work I paid others to do, now that my garage is built and ready to handle any type of work. In any event, about 100 miles or so ago, I started getting the dreaded sound of squeeling on my pressure plate, which would go away so long as I kept a slight bit of pressure on the clutch. I tried the easiest solution first -- I replaced the slave cylinder, just in case the spring was worn out. That seems to have helped somewhat, but it has not solved the problem. I would appreciate suggestions -- short of pulling the tranny and putting in a TRF magic clutch set-up. I've seen suggestions for an extra spring along side the slave cylinder. I'd love to know whether this really helps. Also, any other words of wisdom would be most welcome. Thanks! B. ******************** Bill S. 2005 Lotus Elise 1968 Triumph TR-250 1968 MGC Tourer 1966 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III 1965 Sunbeam Tiger 1959 Austin Healey 3000 www.TR-250.com Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows... NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Apr 7 16:07:09 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 18:07:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? In-Reply-To: References: <200804070544.m375i498025536@moose.dimebank.com> <47FA1D3D.4050801@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <8CA6712DBD56CFF-1378-1EBE@mblk-d39.sysops.aol.com> Bill, Possibly, but my take is a little different.? Now, forgive me if I don't actually have the right terminology and I will do my best to be clear in my descriptions.? The actual bullet ends are quite often in very good shape.? It is the black single and double connectors that usually degrade over time.? If, when I get to the total restore of my car I will keep the bullet ends but replace all of the rubber covered connectors.? For the most part these connectors are 35 plus years old and most of the electrical connections still work now.? I believe replacing them would keep the electrical connections working for a similar length of time and possible save me a bunch of work making the changeover to spade connectors.? Then again, maybe I will just order a new wiring harness from Advanced Wiring. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Bill & AnnaBelle To: TeriAnn Wakeman ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 12:50 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? Wouldn't it be simpler, and more efficient in the long run to just replace those lousy bullets with modern insulated spade connectors? You wouldn't have to do it all at once, just replace the bad ones as they failed, or pulled apart, broke, burned, gave up, or just plain did not work. > > The factory soldered the bullets on using a solder pot. I've tried >> to solder a couple on with big Weller soldering gun and believe me, >> crimping is way easier. > >The factory soldered them so I did too. It is a slow process but I >figure it eliminated internal space where corrosion might occur. And of >course I also assembled the connectors with the dielectric grease to >help keep moisture out. And I never reused the female connectors as I >do not have a good way to insure the internal corrosion is cleaned out. > >Teriann -- Bill Pugh anabil007@ comcast.net Wallace, CA From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Apr 7 17:07:13 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 18:07:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] degreaser Message-ID: <200804071907.13799.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hello, In an attempt to clean parts in the house during the winter, I thought I would try using a combination of that past hand cleaner + some greased lightning degreaser. Trying to avoid the smell of the petroleum based solvents in the house when the only ventilation system is the furnace and then the smell is everywhere. Makes the spouse a bit upset when the whole house smells like the garage! Well, it worked just fine but I just tried it some painted parts that I removed from the 3 in order to pull the engine. These parts were last painted way back in 79 with rust-o-leum red primer + black. Well my solution is not only removing the oil/ grease but also taking the paint right off! I left some painted nuts and bolts in the stuff overnight and looking at them today I see the paint peeling just like when one used regular paint remover. This solution is apparently caustic enough to remove the paint. No problem, I was just going to blast and repaint but I was a bit surprised. Anyway, I found out that if you have the time, this is a much better way to degrease than using my old method of paint thinner or any other petroleum based cleaning fluid. Also the nytril gloves last longer in this stuff than the thinners and such. Bob From L1J1S at aol.com Mon Apr 7 18:32:10 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 20:32:10 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3-a trunk handle Message-ID: hello, i purchased a new tr3-a (post 60,000) chrome trunk handle. i have two raised trunk lids and neither lids have holes in them to secure the lock. the problem is that i misplaced the original handle from dismantling the car 8 years ago. so, the question is> does the lid have two holes in it or does it get bolted from the inside like the door handles do? regards, larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Apr 7 18:38:46 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 19:38:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3-a trunk handle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200804072038.46670.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 07 April 2008 08:32 pm, L1J1S at aol.com wrote: > hello, i purchased a new tr3-a (post 60,000) chrome trunk handle. i have > two raised trunk lids and neither lids have holes in them to secure the > lock. the problem is that i misplaced the original handle from dismantling > the car 8 years ago. so, the question is> does the lid have two holes in it > or does it get bolted from the inside like the door handles do? regards, > larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a > > Larry, My trunk handle gets secured to the trunk with 2 chrome screws through the handle bezel to what looks like piece of metal with 2 tapped holes for the screws. The metal is similar in function to the piece that the hood stick is screwed too. This is for a 1958 TR3A. Bob From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Apr 7 19:05:35 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 21:05:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiring Message-ID: <001401c89914$a6d60a60$08147247@fred8kwiskhcfu> After a few discusions on the phone with Dan Masters, I drove my T/R 3 down to his home in Tenn., Dan had the high priced wire crimper, heat shrink tubing and all the original color wiring for my T/R, he soldered each and every connection and then used the crimping tool then the tubing and this was at each and every connection same procedure, now thats how Dan did it. "FT" From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 7 19:58:21 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 21:58:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stator Tube Umbrellas Message-ID: <006d01c8991c$065cfaf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> A big thanks to Andy Dixon for dissassembling my control head and putting it in order. I commented that my hands shook and he stepped forward and said he'd fix it, and I am grateful. I owe so much to many folks on this list, Thank you. I thought installing my repaired control head, would be a piece of cake. Wrong! Today after reinstalling my inner steering column I sought to push the empty stator tube up the inner steering column. The workshop manual says to insert the stator tube up thru the steering box end. The first 18" of the stator tube was ok, then I came to one of those two strange-accordian-looking spinning sleeve/ collars mounted on top and around the stator tube. There's one on each end of the stator tube (about 18" from each end, each one is only about 1 1/2" long), and there held in place by small projections on the stator tube so they will not travel closer to the stator tube's end. I don't see the reason for these two 'party-hat sleeve/collars'. Anyway, the problem they present is that the stator tube itself is a snug fit inside the inner steering column, but, these 'sleeves' don't want to go inside the inner steering column, especially where the projections are and where the accordian looking slits are. I've even tried gently tapping the stator tube's end with no success. The manual states that the upmost stator tube opening should be at 12 o'clock so this pretty much dictates where along the perimeter of the stator tube that these 'projections' are. Please somebody, tell me how to deal with these two 'compression sleeve/collars' or should I just grind them off? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 286 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From rgperry at earthlink.net Mon Apr 7 20:14:51 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 21:14:51 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] Clutch advice Message-ID: <12169718.1207620891215.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Bill, Using the spring along side the slave cylinder would attempt to pull the throwout bearing away from the clutch plate fingers. I believe that using the spring to pull the clutch shaft arm toward the rear of the car would put the throwout bearing in contact with the clutch plate fingers. This would be the same as putting a little pressure on the clutch pedal to make the bearing noise go away. Now all this depends on the quality/ type bearing (continuous use or momentary use) that was installed. On the other hand was the transmission lined up/ centered properly using the 3/8" alignment dowels when last installed? I'll leave it to other list members that have been through this before to correct/ add to these thoughts. Regards, Greg Perry -----Original Message----- >From: "Steinman, Bill" >Subject: [TR] Clutch advice I've seen suggestions for an extra spring along side >the slave cylinder. >Thanks! >Bill S. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 7 20:33:22 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 22:33:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] dam PO Message-ID: <007101c89920$ead30400$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> My damn PO worked only about a day removing the front wiring from my TR3A before he abandoned the restoration. He removed the sub-harnesses responsible for lights, flashers and horns and then lost them. He also lost some of these lights. I could have lost some of the back ones! Knowing this enables me to blame someone else for my confusion. Now you have someone else to blame too! I now notice there is a difference in the two front flasher bulb holders from the two rear flasher bulb holders. From the side, it can be seen, that one type is longer than the other. Trouble is, I DON'T KNOW IF THE LONGER ONE GOES UP FRONT OR IN THE REAR? The aftermarket vendor I bought them from didn't say. Can you help me? Also, Moss show they use different bulbs, however, both flashers show they take dual-filament bulbs. However, I've already found out that a single filament bulb will work in a dual filament bulb holder. It will twist-in and stay down too. I've already bought the wrong kind of bulb for it!! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 286 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Apr 8 05:10:21 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 11:10:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] 165-15 tires in the midwest? In-Reply-To: <200804071601.m37G1xYa020743@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200804071601.m37G1xYa020743@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: In the days when Triumphs ruled the road there were three choices for a performance tire: Dunlop, Perrelli, and Michelin. If the gentleman can't find Dunlop, or Perrelli then his choice is Michelin. You have to pay for performance. I have Michelins on two cars and a van and have bought them for forty years. They are worth every penny you spend on them. Best regards, Tom > Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 09:01:59 -0700 > From: cak at dimebank.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] 165-15 tires in the midwest? > > I got a call over the weekend from a gentleman with a 4A, looking > for a performance tire in 165-15. When I stopped laughing, we had > a serious discussion about the limited choices in our favorite size. > > He's in Wisconsin, and apparently the only thing he's managed to > find is Coker's Michelin X tires at $200/corner; Tire Rack doesn't > have anything (perhaps temporary) and Discount tire is apparently > no longer carrying their house brand 165. > > Does anyone in that part of the country have better recent data? > > Thanks, > chris > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Pack up or back upuse SkyDrive to transfer files or keep extra copies. Learn how. hthttp://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh _skydrive_packup_042008 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Apr 8 05:20:27 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 11:20:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? In-Reply-To: <47FA574B.7020208@dimebank.com> References: <47FA574B.7020208@dimebank.com> Message-ID: A recent improvement I made to my Thunderbird was new battery cables. The car had some grounding problems with the CPU and radio. I found that the new cables were not sealed into the terminals but were fitted with crimped terminals instead. I used plumbing silver solder to solder the terminals to the wires. The improvement in the way the car operates was beyond my expectations. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ More immediate than e-mail? Get instant access with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ instantaccess_042008 From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Apr 8 06:05:26 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 08:05:26 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? Message-ID: In a message dated 4/7/2008 5:08:05 PM Central Daylight Time, acekraut11 at aol.com writes: > Possibly, but my take is a little different.? Now, forgive me if I don't > actually have the right terminology and I will do my best to be clear in my > descriptions.? The actual bullet ends are quite often in very good shape.? It is > the black single and double connectors that usually degrade over time.? If, > when I get to the total restore of my car I will keep the bullet ends but > replace all of the rubber covered connectors.? For the most part these > connectors are 35 plus years old and most of the electrical connections still work > now.? I believe replacing them would keep the electrical connections working for > a similar length of time and possible save me a bunch of work making the > changeover to spade connectors.? Then again, maybe I will just order a new > wiring harness from Advanced Wiring. > I'm with you, Aaron. The bullet connectors are plated brass and other than a little surface corrosion they will last forever. The barrel connectors are the parts that are more problematic. They are formed to act as a spring and apply the pressure to the bullets. Over time and thermal cycling they tend to loose tension. Plus they also are subject to surface corrosion. Fortunately they are the easiest to replace. If the bullets and the wires to which they are connected are in good shape a little dressing with steel wool and some contact dressing and new barrel connectors and they connections should be good for another 35 years. Cheers Dave From robertko at charter.net Tue Apr 8 08:01:29 2008 From: robertko at charter.net (robertko at charter.net) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 7:01:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas's looseness limits lighting? Message-ID: <20080408100129.1AETL.47485.root@fepweb13> This has already been mentioned but I recommend the Delphi Weatherpak connectors. These are used on GM vehicles and are sealed against the elements. Although these are not "correct" for a British vehicle, the connectors are black and, if tucked away, do not stand out in an obvious manner. They come in one, two, three, four, and six connection layouts and require a special crimping tool to join the connector pin and wire seal. I found all the components for a reasonable price at Waytek (NFI). I was having the same difficulties as other aficienados - loose connectors were causing intermittent failures, some of the bullet connectors seized inside the rubber covered connectors and resulted in either a broken wire due to pulling or required "destruction" of the connector to loosen the male and female connectors. Although bullet connectors are perfectly adequate, I wanted a longer lasting, more reliable connection system. I also added some additional ground wires for the lights and ensured there was a mechanically and electrically solid ground connection. The running lights were also problematic and the fault was found to be the light switch. I added a relay to the running light circuit which solved the problem. The lower current required by the relay coil allowed me to use the existing switch. Haven't had any problems with it so far. From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Apr 8 08:28:44 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2008 10:28:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] dam PO In-Reply-To: <007101c89920$ead30400$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <007101c89920$ead30400$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8CA679BFC2664A0-10F0-46D9@WEBMAIL-DC16.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: dorpaul I now notice there is a difference in the two front flasher bulb holders from the two rear flasher bulb holders. From the side, it can be seen, that one type is longer than the other. Trouble is, I DON'T KNOW IF THE LONGER ONE GOES UP FRONT OR IN THE REAR? The aftermarket vendor I bought them from didn't say. Can you help me? Also, Moss show they use different bulbs, however, both flashers show they take dual-filament bulbs. However, I've already found out that a single filament bulb will work in a dual filament bulb holder. It will twist-in and stay down too. I've already bought the wrong kind of bulb for it!! ==AM== Paul, both front and rear flasher lamp assemblies should APPEAR to be the same. I say APPEAR because both are (or should be) Lucas L594 units. The only difference is that the front ones take dual-filament bulbs since they act as both "side" and "flasher" lamps, while the rear ones originally were single-filament since they were only "flasher" lamps. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From ebartle at hbci.com Tue Apr 8 12:31:01 2008 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2008 13:31:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Grab Bar & Alloy Wheels Message-ID: <20080408133101.en6otjo4qo0sc4w8@mail.hbci.com> I cannot figure out how to install the "grab bar" on the passenger side of my TR3A. This is about the last thing I need to accomplish in the rebuilding and renovating of my TR. I also saw a TR3 on ebay with the greatest looking alloy wheels with a Triumph emblem in the center. Does anyone have any experience with alloy wheels, and do you know where to order a set with a Triumph emblem? Eric Bartleson 1959 TR3A almost ready to drive From spitlist at cox.net Tue Apr 8 13:34:02 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 12:34:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Grab Bar & Alloy Wheels References: <20080408133101.en6otjo4qo0sc4w8@mail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <002a01c899af$80482f40$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I do Decals for wheel caps. What you saw might have been one of mine. The Panasport wheelcaps have a great area in thecenter to put any of several designs I make for Triumphs. Joe C, ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Bartleson" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 11:31 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 Grab Bar & Alloy Wheels > I cannot figure out how to install the "grab bar" on the passenger > side of my TR3A. This is about the last thing I need to accomplish in > the rebuilding and renovating of my TR. > > I also saw a TR3 on ebay with the greatest looking alloy wheels > with a Triumph emblem in the center. Does anyone have any experience > with alloy wheels, and do you know where to order a set with a Triumph > emblem? > > Eric Bartleson > > 1959 TR3A almost ready to drive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From mrm at clking.com Tue Apr 8 13:30:12 2008 From: mrm at clking.com (Mitch R. Meisler) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 15:30:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Grab Bar & Alloy Wheels In-Reply-To: <002a01c899af$80482f40$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <20080408133101.en6otjo4qo0sc4w8@mail.hbci.com> <002a01c899af$80482f40$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <30E72F324648024B956BC3B3C1CF9B240172E8F5@clking01exc02.clkingw2k.local> HI JOE--WOULD BE INTERESTED IN DECALS FOR THE PANASPORTS I HAVE ON MY TR4A. ANY PLACE I CAN LOOK ON THE WEB FOR SAMPLES AND PRICING? THANKS Mitch Meisler Managing Director, Institutional Sales CL King & Associates Nine Elk Street Albany, New York, 12207 518-431-3512-work 518-528-2263-cell AOL IM = MEISLERCLKA E-MAIL = mrm at clking.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 3:34 PM To: Eric Bartleson; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Grab Bar & Alloy Wheels I do Decals for wheel caps. What you saw might have been one of mine. The Panasport wheelcaps have a great area in thecenter to put any of several designs I make for Triumphs. Joe C, ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Bartleson" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 11:31 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 Grab Bar & Alloy Wheels > I cannot figure out how to install the "grab bar" on the passenger > side of my TR3A. This is about the last thing I need to accomplish in > the rebuilding and renovating of my TR. > > I also saw a TR3 on ebay with the greatest looking alloy wheels > with a Triumph emblem in the center. Does anyone have any experience > with alloy wheels, and do you know where to order a set with a Triumph > emblem? > > Eric Bartleson > > 1959 TR3A almost ready to drive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as mrm at clking.com http://www.team.net/archive ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________ From flashtr3 at cox.net Tue Apr 8 13:41:27 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 12:41:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Grab Bar & Alloy Wheels References: <20080408133101.en6otjo4qo0sc4w8@mail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <001301c899b0$8977c200$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> The grab bar is mounted with 4 ea. sheet metal screws moss# 314-190 or 323-555 depending what commission # you have. The sheet metal screws are held in place by the 4 ea. metal clips mounted under the dash rail bracket. I don't see a part# available any more. If yours are missing then you can probably match them at the local hardware store or call Moss#. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Eric Bartleson To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 11:31 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 Grab Bar & Alloy Wheels I cannot figure out how to install the "grab bar" on the passenger side of my TR3A. This is about the last thing I need to accomplish in the rebuilding and renovating of my TR. I also saw a TR3 on ebay with the greatest looking alloy wheels with a Triumph emblem in the center. Does anyone have any experience with alloy wheels, and do you know where to order a set with a Triumph emblem? Eric Bartleson 1959 TR3A almost ready to drive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Apr 8 21:12:38 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2008 20:12:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Coolant, draining heater core References: Message-ID: <009f01c899ef$9107cc60$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> BINGO Worked, perfect. Hose to heater valve (engine side of FW) goes to bottom of heater, so this is best for draining into 1 pint or so container. Apply compressed air to other hose (engine side of FW). Then, disconnected inside heater hoses, maybe 2 tablespoons of coolant drained out. Thank you. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 8:30 AM Subject: Coolant > > I have not done this but I would bet that if you disconnect both hoses from > the engine side and introduced compressed air to the in hose you could > collect most of it from the out hose and eliminate the carpet issues > inside. With both hoses disconnected the pressure will not be a problem. > Sent from my Blackberry wireless handheld > ---ooo--- Internet Confidentiality Statement ---ooo--- > > The information contained in this communication is confidential and is > intended only for the use of the recipient named above, and may be legally > privileged and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If the reader > of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that > any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is > strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, > please resend it to the sender and delete the original message and any copy > of it from your computer system. Opinions, conclusions and other > information in this message that do not relate to our official business > should be understood as neither given nor endorsed by this company. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Apr 8 17:55:07 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 19:55:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting Message-ID: <000501c899d3$fb153780$210110ac@bobspc> A couple of brake questions: 1. I've installed a rebuilt servo, new m/c, rebuilt calipers, new rear cylinders (0.75" bore) new Kevlar pads and shoes, new clips & springs and new braided hose. So it's all new & now in need of fluif or fluid even. And I'm going with Castrol GTLMA DOT4. I've been told that the majority of air bubbles that you see after purging the initial batch of them is from air coming in around the threads of the loose bleeder screw. As a result, it's best to use some Teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads. Comments? Suggestions? 2. Has anyone ever used this method (http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-adjustment.shtml)? Does it work on a newly installed system or is it just for adjusting after the initial old fashioned way of tighten, spin, tighten some more, back off etc. If I'm understanding it correctly, you just pull up the e-brake handle 3-4 clicks and tighten each adjuster until snug. Release the e-brake and you're good to go. Sounds too simple ;-) Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From twirt at claycoyote.com Tue Apr 8 18:42:52 2008 From: twirt at claycoyote.com (Tom Wirt @ Claycoyote) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 19:42:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Federal Tires References: <000501c89726$a08d5ef0$0301a8c0@chuck> Message-ID: <008101c899da$a6e5d6e0$6702a8c0@PortableCoyote> I did just get a set of Jumbos from http://www.tires-easy.com:80/ Service was fine but be aware they bill through Germany which set off my bank fraud alarm. Don't know how many sets they have. Tom W > > Like several others on the list, I, too, am looking to re-shoe my 1965 > TR4A > with scarce 165/80R15 tires. I've seen your recommendations for Sumitomo > and Kumhos but can't find anyone with them in stock. I have found a > supply From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Apr 8 19:49:41 2008 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 21:49:41 EDT Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting Message-ID: In a message dated 4/8/2008 7:55:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: I've installed a rebuilt servo, new m/c, rebuilt calipers, new rear cylinders (0.75" bore) new Kevlar pads and shoes, new clips & springs and new braided hose. So it's all new & now in need of fluif or fluid even. sounds like a good time to switch to DOT 5 ! **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Tue Apr 8 20:28:41 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 22:28:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Federal Tires In-Reply-To: <008101c899da$a6e5d6e0$6702a8c0@PortableCoyote> Message-ID: <002101c899e9$6d930340$0301a8c0@chuck> Thanks, Tom. When I just did a search for 165/80R15 tires on tires-easy.com, the only tire that came up was a Nexen at $42.30 per tire plus $50.26 shipping per tire! I'll stick with the 4 to 6 weeks wait for Kumhos from treadepot.com at $38.00 per tire with free shipping. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: On Behalf Of Tom Wirt @ Claycoyote Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 8:43 PM To: C E White; triumph list Subject: Re: [TR] Federal Tires I did just get a set of Jumbos from http://www.tires-easy.com:80/ Service was fine but be aware they bill through Germany which set off my bank fraud alarm. Don't know how many sets they have. Tom W > > Like several others on the list, I, too, am looking to re-shoe my 1965 > TR4A with scarce 165/80R15 tires. I've seen your recommendations for > Sumitomo and Kumhos but can't find anyone with them in stock. I have > found a supply From fishplate at charter.net Tue Apr 8 20:03:08 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2008 22:03:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting In-Reply-To: <000501c899d3$fb153780$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000501c899d3$fb153780$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080409023253.ZZNX11293.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Hi Bob, At 07:55 PM 4/8/2008, you wrote: >A couple of brake questions: >1. I've installed a rebuilt servo, new m/c, rebuilt calipers, new rear >cylinders (0.75" bore) new Kevlar pads and shoes, new clips & springs and >new braided hose. So it's all new & now in need of fluif or fluid even. And >I'm going with Castrol GTLMA DOT4. Sounds good so far... > I've been told that the majority of air >bubbles that you see after purging the initial batch of them is from air >coming in around the threads of the loose bleeder screw. As a result, it's >best to use some Teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads. Comments? >Suggestions? If I thought it was a problem, I'd use a dab of grease on the threads rather than futz about with tape. But when the fluif is under pressure, you should be forcing it out around the threads, not drawing it in. Thus, the bubbles probably are bubbles. Try pumping a bit slower...three easy pumps to build pressure, then crack the valve to release. Don't let the pedal get too low! And don't run out of fluif - for some reason, it's easier in the TR6 than in any other car I've worked on... Dunno why, so I stop halfway through each cylinder to refill. Last time I did a complete overhaul, I wound up going around three or four times to get it all clear. >2. Has anyone ever used this method >(http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-adjustment.shtml)? Does it work on a >newly installed system or is it just for adjusting after the initial old >fashioned way of tighten, spin, tighten some more, back off etc. I always adjust, then stomp the brakes. Close it up one click at a time, stomping in between. Eventually you will find a place it likes to be. You could check with the handbrake method, but I'm not sure if there's any difference in the long run. I've never sat down to compare shoe clearance vs. pedal travel... Note that each of the above requires a patient assistant. If you ask a significant other, be prepared to pay handsomely for their help. If you lure a neighbor with a six-pack, get started early, before said neighbor gets too deep in the refreshments... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ <<< Under Renovation! Athens, Georgia #354 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.10/1366 - Release Date: 4/8/2008 5:03 PM From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Apr 8 20:45:43 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 22:45:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting Message-ID: >I've been told that the majority of air >bubbles that you see after purging the initial batch of them is from air >coming in around the threads of the loose bleeder screw. As a result, it's >best to use some Teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads. Comments? >Suggestions? The threads don't seal. If you look at the bleeder screw you will see a reduced diameter portion with a radial hole that leads to a hold that runs down the center and out the end. If the tapered end doesn't seat the bleed hole will bypass the threads anyway. It may be a good idea to put a little anti-sieze on the threads but sealing them woun't buy you anything. Cheers Dave From jercurry at comcast.net Tue Apr 8 22:05:44 2008 From: jercurry at comcast.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 22:05:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] surface TR3 exhaust manifold? Message-ID: <000e01c899f6$fc5cbdc0$6801a8c0@screamer> Howdy all, I am getting ready to put the exhaust manifold back on my TR3, it has been off for 29 years and the head has been rebuilt. A friend of mine told me I should have the exhaust manifold surfaced before re-assembling. It is not rusted, but not perfectly clean either. What are your thoughts? how much can the gasket cover up? If you think I should get it done, do you have a place in Salt Lake City that could do it well? thanks in advance, Jeremiah From wbeech at flash.net Tue Apr 8 23:58:25 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 23:58:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] surface TR3 exhaust manifold? In-Reply-To: <000e01c899f6$fc5cbdc0$6801a8c0@screamer> References: <000e01c899f6$fc5cbdc0$6801a8c0@screamer> Message-ID: <003101c89a06$badd84a0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Jeremiah, If the gasketed area is not perfectly flat, it can lead to a leak down the road. I should think any competent machine shop could check it to see if it needs to be done and do it for you if necessary. Bill Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeremiah Curry Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 10:06 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] surface TR3 exhaust manifold? Howdy all, I am getting ready to put the exhaust manifold back on my TR3, it has been off for 29 years and the head has been rebuilt. A friend of mine told me I should have the exhaust manifold surfaced before re-assembling. It is not rusted, but not perfectly clean either. What are your thoughts? how much can the gasket cover up? If you think I should get it done, do you have a place in Salt Lake City that could do it well? thanks in advance, Jeremiah This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 9 01:58:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 0:58:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] surface TR3 exhaust manifold? Message-ID: <21261857.1207727918230.JavaMail.root@web39> > A friend of mine told me I > should have the exhaust manifold surfaced before re-assembling. It is not > rusted, but not perfectly clean either. What are your thoughts I'd check it for being reasonably flat, with a straight edge (like a carpenter's square). If it's not obviously warped, clean up the mating surface a bit with a file, and put it together. If it is obviously warped, then either get it machined or pick up another manifold. Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Apr 9 05:27:28 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 06:27:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] surface TR3 exhaust manifold? In-Reply-To: <000e01c899f6$fc5cbdc0$6801a8c0@screamer> References: <000e01c899f6$fc5cbdc0$6801a8c0@screamer> Message-ID: <200804090727.28298.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 09 April 2008 12:05 am, Jeremiah Curry wrote: > Howdy all, > > I am getting ready to put the exhaust manifold back on my TR3, it has been > off for 29 years and the head has been rebuilt. A friend of mine told me I > should have the exhaust manifold surfaced before re-assembling. It is not > rusted, but not perfectly clean either. What are your thoughts? how much > can the gasket cover up? > > If you think I should get it done, do you have a place in Salt Lake City > that could do it well? > > thanks in advance, > Jeremiah Jeremiah, I took mine down to the local engine shop and they re-surfaced both the outlet and the 4 inlets. Cost 25$. Why take a chance? Bob From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Apr 9 06:21:31 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 12:21:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have seen mention on this list of a brake bleeding method using a container half full of brake fluid. You drop a tube from the bleeder screw into the container and then pump the brakes. Or this is my take on it. Would someone please edify me on the proper way to use this method? Thanks. Best regards, Tom > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 22:45:43 -0400 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting > > >I've been told that the majority of air > >bubbles that you see after purging the initial batch of them is from air > >coming in around the threads of the loose bleeder screw. As a result, it's > >best to use some Teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads. Comments? > >Suggestions? > > The threads don't seal. If you look at the bleeder screw you will see a > reduced diameter portion with a radial hole that leads to a hold that runs down > the center and out the end. If the tapered end doesn't seat the bleed hole will > bypass the threads anyway. > > It may be a good idea to put a little anti-sieze on the threads but sealing > them woun't buy you anything. > > Cheers > > Dave > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Pack up or back upuse SkyDrive to transfer files or keep extra copies. Learn how. hthttp://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh _skydrive_packup_042008 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Apr 9 06:25:34 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 12:25:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] surface TR3 exhaust manifold? In-Reply-To: <003101c89a06$badd84a0$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <000e01c899f6$fc5cbdc0$6801a8c0@screamer> <003101c89a06$badd84a0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: You can check the manifold for trueness yourself. Set it up in a vice with the mounting surface about level. Then lay a straight edge across the mounting surfaces. If you can get a 0.003 feeler gauge between the mounting surfaces and the straight edge it should be surfaced. Check the surfaces in several places, i.e. top, middle, and bottom. Best regards, Tom > From: wbeech at flash.net > To: jercurry at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 23:58:25 -0600 > Subject: Re: [TR] surface TR3 exhaust manifold? > > Jeremiah, > > If the gasketed area is not perfectly flat, it can lead to a leak down the > road. I should think any competent machine shop could check it to see if it > needs to be done and do it for you if necessary. > > Bill > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Jeremiah Curry > Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 10:06 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] surface TR3 exhaust manifold? > > Howdy all, > > I am getting ready to put the exhaust manifold back on my TR3, it has been > off for 29 years and the head has been rebuilt. A friend of mine told me I > should have the exhaust manifold surfaced before re-assembling. It is not > rusted, but not perfectly clean either. What are your thoughts? how much > can the gasket cover up? > > If you think I should get it done, do you have a place in Salt Lake City > that could do it well? > > thanks in advance, > Jeremiah > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Pack up or back upuse SkyDrive to transfer files or keep extra copies. Learn how. hthttp://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh _skydrive_packup_042008 From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Wed Apr 9 06:34:09 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 08:34:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting References: Message-ID: <000701c89a3e$04f760b0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> >I have seen mention on this list of a brake bleeding method using a >container > half full of brake fluid. You drop a tube from the bleeder screw into the > container and then pump the brakes. Or this is my take on it. > > Would someone please edify me on the proper way to use this method? It's real easy, and your take on it is correct. You put the tube from the bleeder to the container on the ground, making sure the end of the tube is under the surface of a little fluid in the container. Turn the bleeder about half a turn open. Now pump the pedal. Gravity and friction make it so the fluid squirts out easily when you push the pedal down, but it's much more unwilling to go back up the tube when you let the pedal up. The fluid is more easily pulled from the reservoir. This method works superbly as a one man pump and bleed technique. If you wish to spend money needlessly, you can buy speed-bleeders that do the exact same thing. From N197TR4 at cs.com Wed Apr 9 06:35:30 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 08:35:30 EDT Subject: [TR] Wheel decals Message-ID: Joe Curry... I didnt know you had decals for Triumph Wheels. Pleave give me a Diameter and I'll see if they fit my wheels. Two Sets. Thanks for letting us know I about this. Joe A > > > I do Decals for wheel caps. What you saw might have been one of mine. The > Panasport wheelcaps have a great area in thecenter to put any of several > designs I make for Triumphs. > > Joe C, > From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 9 07:19:37 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 06:19:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 TRansmission mount brackets Message-ID: <642018.21345.qm@web54101.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hello Y'all, I have recently aquired a new frame for my TR4A restoration (finally!), which is great news. However it is from a late model TR6 using the J-type overdrive and I have an A-type OD that came with my car. My understanding is that a non-overdrive mount bracket will bolt right up. My questions are: Is this correct? and Does anyone have a spare bracket if it does? Thanks in advance, Raymond L. Hatfield '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" Little Rock, AR Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 9 08:48:59 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 07:48:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 TRansmission mount brackets In-Reply-To: <637147.19853.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <74204.76326.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi Todd, Actually I did say I have a late TR6 frame - I did so after spending 3 years trying to find a decent TR4A frame without sucess. What mounting issues are you referring to? If it's engine-related, I've already worked those out, but I'd be grateful if you would point out any other issues I need to be aware of. Thanks for the clarification on the transmission mount, that's what I had been told, but just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to be suprised down the road. Raymond --- Todd Bermudez wrote: > Raymond, > > Uh, did you say you acquired a Late TR6 frame for a > TR4A? I hope that's not correct...mostly because of > the mounting up front in the engine bay. Most > everything else would be fine. > > Anyway, if I'm wrong...just say so. > > The A-Type will install on a late frame using the > 4-speed mount. It's a bracket the bolts to the mount > that you have. You can find a pic of that setup in > the Roadster Factory parts books or I guess Moss will > have a pic of it as well. > > Cheers, > > Todd > > --- Raymond Hatfield wrote: > > > Hello Y'all, > > > > I have recently aquired a new frame for my TR4A > > restoration (finally!), which > > is great news. However it is from a late model TR6 > > using the J-type overdrive > > and I have an A-type OD that came with my car. My > > understanding is that a > > non-overdrive mount bracket will bolt right up. My > > questions are: Is this > > correct? and Does anyone have a spare bracket if it > > does? > > > > Thanks in advance, > > > > > > Raymond L. Hatfield > > '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" > > '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" > > Little Rock, AR > > > > Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: > > http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam > > protection around > > http://mail.yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at yahoo.com > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From wbeech at flash.net Wed Apr 9 09:52:59 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 09:52:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001701c89a59$c9da8f90$6401a8c0@sniffer> Yep, this is how I have done it for 40 years... works on American cars too! Bill '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2008 6:22 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting I have seen mention on this list of a brake bleeding method using a container half full of brake fluid. You drop a tube from the bleeder screw into the container and then pump the brakes. Or this is my take on it. Would someone please edify me on the proper way to use this method? Thanks. Best regards, Tom > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 22:45:43 -0400 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting > > >I've been told that the majority of air bubbles that you see after > >purging the initial batch of them is from air coming in around the > >threads of the loose bleeder screw. As a result, it's best to use > >some Teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads. Comments? > >Suggestions? > > The threads don't seal. If you look at the bleeder screw you will see > a reduced diameter portion with a radial hole that leads to a hold > that runs down > the center and out the end. If the tapered end doesn't seat the bleed > hole will > bypass the threads anyway. > > It may be a good idea to put a little anti-sieze on the threads but > sealing them woun't buy you anything. > > Cheers > > Dave > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Pack up or back upuse SkyDrive to transfer files or keep extra copies. Learn how. hthttp://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refres h _skydrive_packup_042008 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From trstreep at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 9 12:03:07 2008 From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 13:03:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 wheel color Message-ID: List- A friend of mine is getting ready to powdercoat a set of GT6 wheels and asked me if I knew if they were originally the same argent silver color as TR6. I told him that I thought so, but wasn't sure, and that we might be well-advised to defer to the collective wisdom of this list. If anyone would be willing to advise, we would apreciate it. Bob Streepy CC58409 - Lucille the Wonder Car, as in "I wonder if anybody would pay .20 on the dollar for what I've spent on this thing." TS78649L- Casper, not the world's nicest TR$, just the most expensive. From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 9 12:27:12 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 11:27:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 TRansmission mount brackets In-Reply-To: <711635.45670.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <863063.10716.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Todd, I believe I remember visiting Dave's website, which is how I knew there would be issues with the fan extention - I'm removing it and using an electric fan. This is the first I've heard of radiator mount issues, but I'll pay close attention to it, thanks for the heads-up. I plan on boxing not only the diff mounts, but both bridge pieces as well, per Mr. Williams' recomendation in his book. I'm even thinking about stealing an idea from Rat-co and filling the frame interior with foam, to aid in preventing rust. I don't ever want to experience what I did with my original frame - while sandblasting what I thought was a solid rail, the blaster cut right through the steel! =8O It was a miracle the frame hadn't folded up on me before then! Thanks again, Raymond --- Todd Bermudez wrote: > Raymond, > > A fellow TR4A owner here in Cincy(Dave Connitt) > discovered that he had a TR250 frame upon trying to > install the engine...he thought it was a TR4A frame. > I think it had to do with the fan extension, but that > was some time ago...if you've already dealt with all > that...no worries! The rest should be fine...well > maybe the radiator mount, but I suspect you've done > something with that too! If nothing else, you've done > well in selecting a late TR6 frame...just don't forget > to box in the diff mounts > > Cheers, > > Todd Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From tr6nut at verizon.net Wed Apr 9 16:47:45 2008 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 18:47:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 wheel color In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47FD4791.5000707@verizon.net> Bob Streepy wrote: > List- > A friend of mine is getting ready to powdercoat a set of GT6 wheels and > asked me if I knew if they were originally the same argent silver color as > TR6. The wheels on my '73 GT6 Mk3 were silver. Hugh Barber Stafford, VA '73 TR6 From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed Apr 9 20:53:49 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 19:53:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stant Superstat thermostat Message-ID: <00ef01c89ab6$1ac395d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Stant makes a higher quality thermostat called the Superstat. They say it opens and closes quicker to maintain a more even temperature. http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=205&location_id=168 They are twice the price. Anyone with experience using this product? Regards, Bob From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Apr 9 17:08:33 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 19:08:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stant Superstat thermostat References: <00ef01c89ab6$1ac395d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <00df01c89a96$a285f8c0$c4297247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Bob, never used one as T/R's need the sleeve type to block-off water, and, I still have the original Smith's I put-in 15 years ago. "FT" ======================================================================================================= ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2008 10:53 PM Subject: [TR] Stant Superstat thermostat > Stant makes a higher quality thermostat called the Superstat. > They say it opens and closes quicker to maintain a more even temperature. > http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=205&location_id=168 > They are twice the price. > Anyone with experience using this product? > Regards, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Apr 9 17:36:16 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 23:36:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] surface TR3 exhaust manifold? Message-ID: <040920082336.20543.47FD52F0000D63B00000503F22155688849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> A friend of mine told me I should have the exhaust manifold surfaced before re-assembling. It is not rusted, but not perfectly clean either. What are your thoughts? how much can the gasket cover up? Actually, the gasket can cover quite a bit up. While I am not arguing that you should or should not resurface your manifold, there is a thick spongy graphite manifold gasket made by Remflext that come in standard 1/8 inch thickness and are designed to crush 50%, which allows it to fillgaps in teh flange surface of up to 1/16 of an inch. I developed exhaust leaks twice after my rebuild, installed one of these, and am delighted that I can now cruise at 80 mph without having to worry about blowing it again. Uhm...I just can't find my receipt to tell you who I bought it from. (...Guess that means NFI, huh?) Joe Alexander, was it you???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (still blocked by two feet of snow) New Hampshire From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Apr 9 17:49:26 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 19:49:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Should I have known this? Message-ID: <00ca01c89a9c$58e69020$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I discovered the reason that my stator tube would not go thru the steering's inner column. It only did so when I removed the steering box's end plate (with the four bolts). The end plate catches on those anti-rattle rotating slits. Should I have known this? I don't recall this being in the workshop manual. However, there was a slight coat of rust already on the gaskets and bearings. I know much corrosion is a definite deterrent to things working properly. I don't see how a slight rust powder would gum up things, or prove contagious, if I shut everything up and filled it immediatly with 90 weight oil. Does anyone agree with me? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 286 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From elliottr at rmi.net Wed Apr 9 18:12:19 2008 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 19:12:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 distributor and Pertronix Message-ID: <200804091912.19208.elliottr@rmi.net> My wife's TR 250 has unfortunately been out of commission since last fall. One of the things I noticed is that the breaker plates seem a little loose. I was able to press down on one side of the plate while it was in the distributor and it will go up and down. So I took it out to look at it. On the side of the plates where the ground wire is attached, there is a locating pin that goes down through bottom plate. This seems to be where the play comes in. The pin has a groove in it that looks like it should fit the key way in the plate fairly tightly. It doesn't. The breaker plates don't seem to be available, so I can't replace it. I thought I would drop in a Pertronix (I have one on my Spitfire and like it) but I realized it sits on the same plate. So my questions are: Is this play normal? Does it cause a problem? WIll the Pertronix have a similar problem? Or since there are no points will it not be affected? Are the plates available somewhere? Thanks, Roger Elliott From fishplate at charter.net Wed Apr 9 18:24:16 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 20:24:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stant Superstat thermostat In-Reply-To: <00ef01c89ab6$1ac395d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <00ef01c89ab6$1ac395d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <20080410002409.DJDD17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 10:53 PM 4/9/2008, Bob wrote: >Stant makes a higher quality thermostat called the Superstat. >They say it opens and closes quicker to maintain a more even temperature. >http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=205&location_id=168 >They are twice the price. >Anyone with experience using this product? No, but I do know something about thermodynamics... I cannot imagine that the mass of water and the mass of the engine are such that the difference of a few seconds in the changing of a thermostat would have any noticeable effect on the performance of the engine. At best, it might dampen the hysteresis somewhat, but I can't see how that's needed in an otherwise normal engine cooling system. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/ Athens, Georgia #354 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.10/1366 - Release Date: 4/8/2008 5:03 PM From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed Apr 9 22:40:50 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 21:40:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Stant Superstat thermostat References: <47FD5FC8.1060207@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <012e01c89ac5$0e551170$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Advance Auto sell the Superstat 59358 for $9.99 (the 160' is 59356), and another for $4.99. I have a standard 180' and temp gets to 3/4 idling for maybe 20 minutes. I have to contend with some occasional stop and go traffic. I'll go with the Superstat 160' and report back to the lists. Thank you. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Friedlander" To: Cc: ; ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2008 5:31 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Stant Superstat thermostat > Not sure about twice the price. Stant makes their # 45358 as their > "Premium Thermostat" for > 180 degree opening for the TR6 > (http://www.stant.com/part_locator/index.cfm). > > Rock Auto has them at $4.59 each > > http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=153&partnum=45358&a=FR153-45358 > > The standard TRF thermostat is their GTS104 which sells for $6.98 > > http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/48.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024 > > Dave > > > Vsnively at aol.com wrote: > > >In a message dated 4/9/2008 6:55:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > >rpeglow at optonline.net writes: > > > >Stant makes a higher quality thermostat called the Superstat. > >They say it opens and closes quicker to maintain a more even temperature. > >http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=205&location_id=168 > >They are twice the price. > >Anyone with experience using this product? > >Regards, > >Bob > >6pack at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > >http://www.team.net/archive > > > >You are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) > > > > > > > > > > > >Bob, > > > > I installed one in my '75. It does seem to hold a constant temp a little > >better than the cheapies. I bought it mainly because it was a much higher > >quality than some others. I viewed the price difference as cheap insurance > >against downtime in driving season. So far, so good. > > > >Regards, > >Vic Snively > >'75 TR6 w/AC From goh56agan at comcast.net Wed Apr 9 20:14:06 2008 From: goh56agan at comcast.net (goh56agan at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2008 02:14:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 replacement parts Message-ID: <041020080214.6424.47FD77EE00086F25000019182216557996020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> List, Can anyone answer some questions about replacement parts for a 62TR4? I wasn't sure if these were appropriate for the List. I'm looking to replace the door seals. Moss sells two pieces, a furflex and a rubber seal. TRF also sells two pieces but seems to recommend a single combined strip. The Moss parts are also more expensive. Is there any difference in quality? Any experiences with these? Also any suggestions about best place to get the 1/2" belt conversion (again Moss's price is higher). Any help would be appreciated. I'm just getting started and I have a lot of questions. Contacting me off List is fine. Gary O From smithw1 at optonline.net Wed Apr 9 20:25:39 2008 From: smithw1 at optonline.net (William L. Smith) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 22:25:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Clutch advice Message-ID: <0JZ300JXA82U8DA0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Bill, Several years ago a friend with a TR6 replaced his clutch assembly and then experienced a squeeling sound also. We pulled the tranny and found that a roll pin was missing from the throw-out bearing groove that the release fork ends sit in. This pin keeps the throw out bearing from spinning (the bearing spinning on the shaft causes a squeeling noise), and apparently was not provided with the new bearing. We took the pin from the old bearing, installed it in the new bearing, reassembled everything, and the squeeling stopped. Not sure if this is your problem, but it might be worth taking a look to see if that roll pin is in place. Bill Smith 72 TR6 80 TR7 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------- Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 16:36:35 -0400 From: "Steinman, Bill" Subject: [TR] Clutch advice To: Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F016A8D4C at WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Howdy all: I've got an issue with the clutch on my TR250, and would love advice from the collective. I've got a relatively new clutch in the car (about 1000 miles). Installation of the clutch was the last piece of work I paid others to do, now that my garage is built and ready to handle any type of work. In any event, about 100 miles or so ago, I started getting the dreaded sound of squeeling on my pressure plate, which would go away so long as I kept a slight bit of pressure on the clutch. I tried the easiest solution first -- I replaced the slave cylinder, just in case the spring was worn out. That seems to have helped somewhat, but it has not solved the problem. I would appreciate suggestions -- short of pulling the tranny and putting in a TRF magic clutch set-up. I've seen suggestions for an extra spring along side the slave cylinder. I'd love to know whether this really helps. Also, any other words of wisdom would be most welcome. Thanks! B. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Apr 10 05:36:40 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2008 06:36:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 replacement parts In-Reply-To: <041020080214.6424.47FD77EE00086F25000019182216557996020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> References: <041020080214.6424.47FD77EE00086F25000019182216557996020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> Message-ID: <200804100736.40766.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 09 April 2008 10:14 pm, goh56agan at comcast.net wrote: > List, > Can anyone answer some questions about replacement parts for a 62TR4? I > wasn't sure if these were appropriate for the List. I'm looking to replace > the door seals. Moss sells two pieces, a furflex and a rubber seal. TRF > also sells two pieces but seems to recommend a single combined strip. The > Moss parts are also more expensive. Is there any difference in quality? > Any experiences with these? Also any suggestions about best place to get > the 1/2" belt conversion (again Moss's price is higher). > Any help would be appreciated. I'm just getting started and I have a lot of > questions. Contacting me off List is fine. > Gary O Gary, I used the 2 piece setup (furflex on the inside and the rubber seal on the outside). The furflex fits real snug on the sill weld and up to the top of the windshield. The rubber fits in that groove or channel. THe fit was perfect and does its job. Real easy to install. The furflex looks real sharp. Both parts from TRF. Bob From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Thu Apr 10 11:27:28 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2008 10:27:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 replacement parts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <016401c89b30$26c52950$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> I purchased the rubber seal and furflex from Moss (thru a wholesaler though, never pay THOSE prices!) and they fit well. Some words of caution - if the channels that hold the rubber seal are gone or almost gone, go with the one pieces rubber/furflex, don't try to reweld the channel on. My car had next to no rust so I was lucky the channels were in great shape. Also, be prepared for LOTS of door fitting and mashing of the new rubber seal! I let mine set with the doors latched at one click for a month before I could actually get the doors to close all the way. Now, a year later, everything fits nice and snug. Same with the trunk rubber. Oh, and be really stocked with band-aids and beer as fitting the rubber in the channel is an extreme test of patience and pain level... If I had to do it again, I'd probably go with the TRF parts as I think they have better quality. Watch for the sales and you could do well... Brian 67 TR4a Is it summer yet?? :-) ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2008 06:36:40 -0500 From: Bob Labuz Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 replacement parts To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <200804100736.40766.yellowtr at adelphia.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" On Wednesday 09 April 2008 10:14 pm, goh56agan at comcast.net wrote: > List, > Can anyone answer some questions about replacement parts for a 62TR4? I > wasn't sure if these were appropriate for the List. I'm looking to replace > the door seals. Moss sells two pieces, a furflex and a rubber seal. TRF > also sells two pieces but seems to recommend a single combined strip. The > Moss parts are also more expensive. Is there any difference in quality? > Any experiences with these? Also any suggestions about best place to get > the 1/2" belt conversion (again Moss's price is higher). > Any help would be appreciated. I'm just getting started and I have a lot of > questions. Contacting me off List is fine. > Gary O Gary, I used the 2 piece setup (furflex on the inside and the rubber seal on the outside). The furflex fits real snug on the sill weld and up to the top of the windshield. The rubber fits in that groove or channel. THe fit was perfect and does its job. Real easy to install. The furflex looks real sharp. Both parts from TRF. Bob ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 181 **************************************** From DLylis at aol.com Thu Apr 10 17:33:07 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2008 19:33:07 EDT Subject: [TR] Should I have known this? Message-ID: Paul, IMHO this is not the way to go. The end plate must be installed in such a way that there is NO end play while allowing freedom of movement. With the bugger of a job it was to accomplish this on the bench, I can't imagine that I could get this done with the steering box in place. I guess it is possible that if you remove it and are careful to replace it with the same configuration of shims and gasket you will be OK. That stator tube should slide through the end plate with it assembled. There may be those that are more creative in this regard than I, but that is the way I would do it. I do not recall that the old stator tube that I had had the anti rattle expansion that far down. I changed over to Mark Macy's stainless that does not have that expansion. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From DLylis at aol.com Thu Apr 10 19:15:16 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2008 21:15:16 EDT Subject: [TR] Should I have known this? Message-ID: Paul, I have been away and just discovered your previous email. I installed the stator tube from the top down not the bottom up. I think if you do that the expansion pieces will not interfere. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From AA00727 at aol.com Thu Apr 10 21:20:59 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2008 23:20:59 EDT Subject: [TR] Tire size Message-ID: What would be a good tire to run on a '62 TR-3 with Panasport rims 15' X 5 1/2" ? Gary **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From DLylis at aol.com Fri Apr 11 04:44:09 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 06:44:09 EDT Subject: [TR] Tire size Message-ID: Vredestein Classic Sprint 185/15. Has a classic tread pattern and gives a more stout appearance than the stcok 165s. Be warned, they are not the cheapest! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 11 08:31:30 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 07:31:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TRs and Stags and Wheels (Oh My!) In-Reply-To: <002a01c899af$80482f40$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <550481.82580.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hello Y'all, Negotiating with the wife on how to spend our tax refund, and I need a little help from the list. Will the 16" Panasports/Minilites/whatever for the TR fit the Stag? My wife really likes the low-profile look I got when I put 17" Mustang wheels on my TR4A, but prefers the classic look of Panasports. Also, am I correct in believing that the wheel nuts are the same? Last item, who would have the best price on the ones with the gold spokes (she thinks these will look really great on her Mallard Stag) Thanks in advance, Raymond L. Hatfield '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" Little Rock, AR Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com Fri Apr 11 08:38:25 2008 From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 10:38:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Finally Started - Fuel Problem Message-ID: After many long years of my 62 TR4 frame off resto, I finally cranked her up yesterday. It was a great, open header sound. The problem was I couldn't keep fuel feeding. I filled up the bowls & it would run them dry. My primer lever on my fuel pump appears to be working OK. Are there any tricks or common mistakes with this setup? I have SU carbs & I started it without the chokes on ( I haven't quite figured out how to hook up the cable yet) Thanks as always, John D From eoot at citlink.net Fri Apr 11 09:43:02 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 11:43:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Finally Started - Fuel Problem References: Message-ID: <003201c89bea$bae80700$670a0a0a@MyComputski> John Disconnect the fuel line from the front carb. Turn the motor over and see if you get a good flow of gas. If not then it is most likely a pump problem. If you do then I would investigate to see if the needle valves are stuck. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Dunham" To: ; Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 10:38 AM Subject: [TR] Finally Started - Fuel Problem > After many long years of my 62 TR4 frame off resto, I finally cranked her > up yesterday. It was a great, open header sound. The problem was I > couldn't keep fuel feeding. I filled up the bowls & it would run them > dry. > My primer lever on my fuel pump appears to be working OK. Are there any > tricks or common mistakes with this setup? I have SU carbs & I started it > without the chokes on ( I haven't quite figured out how to hook up the > cable yet) > Thanks as always, > John D > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ElangTR4 at aol.com Fri Apr 11 13:36:13 2008 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 15:36:13 EDT Subject: [TR] TRs and Stags and Wheels (Oh My!) Message-ID: Raymond, A number of guys in our local club are using "Superlite" brand wheels. They have the traditional Minilite/Panasport look, but cost less. These are available in many colors, including gold. Just google "Superlite wheels". Eric Langreder 71 TR6 Would it possibly reduce the hard-steering to sharpen the adjusting screw that holds down the rocker shaft in the steering box? Even if I didn't sharpen it, but made it somewhat narrower. I know little but it seems like doing so would reduce the friction required for turning my TR3. Thanks, 60 molested TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 286 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sat Apr 12 10:49:47 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 12:49:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] listing Message-ID: <003101c89cbd$3836da10$15277247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Surfing the net last night for used cars and found a 1955 T/R "2" with only 12K miles and it had air bags, neat price only 28,500.00, Don't ask me how, I just read it. "FT" From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Apr 12 10:57:59 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 12:57:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] listing References: <003101c89cbd$3836da10$15277247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <000801c89cbe$5d5d3d10$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5> Fred, it sounds like it was an air bag selling the car! JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "FRED E THOMAS" To: "triumphs" Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 12:49 PM Subject: [TR] listing > Surfing the net last night for used cars and found a 1955 T/R "2" with > only > 12K miles and it had air bags, neat price only 28,500.00, Don't ask me > how, I > just read it. "FT" From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Apr 12 11:35:19 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 13:35:19 EDT Subject: [TR] listing Message-ID: In a message dated 4/12/2008 11:50:11 AM Central Daylight Time, frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes: > Surfing the net last night for used cars and found a 1955 T/R "2" with only > 12K miles and it had air bags, neat price only 28,500.00, Don't ask me how, > I > just read it. "FT" > What? Are his wife and mother-in-law included in the deal? Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Apr 12 11:44:19 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 13:44:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hood/Bonnet Bolts Message-ID: <000001c89cc4$d72fb450$210110ac@bobspc> I'm putting the hood/bonnet back on and there's 6 long bolts and 2 short bolts. I've been cautioned not to mix them up. And while I took lots of nice pictures of the mounting brackets, I didn't make note of where the 2 short bolts go. I "think" the 6 long ones go 3 and 3 on the underneath of the hood while the short ones go 1 and 1 on the side on the hood. Is that correct? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From wbeech at flash.net Sat Apr 12 11:53:13 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 11:53:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] listing In-Reply-To: <003101c89cbd$3836da10$15277247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <003101c89cbd$3836da10$15277247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <002001c89cc6$15158a50$6401a8c0@sniffer> Fred, If it is the one in Hemmings, he's just up the road from you. Drive you "3" up there and show him $28,500 really looks like. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FRED E THOMAS Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 10:50 AM To: triumphs Subject: [TR] listing Surfing the net last night for used cars and found a 1955 T/R "2" with only 12K miles and it had air bags, neat price only 28,500.00, Don't ask me how, I just read it. "FT" This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Apr 12 12:27:01 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 12:27:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] TRs and Stags and Wheels (Oh My!) In-Reply-To: <550481.82580.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <550481.82580.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4800FEF5.8060102@tscusa.org> Raymond Hatfield wrote: > Hello Y'all, > > Negotiating with the wife on how to spend our tax refund, and I need a little > help from the list. Will the 16" Panasports/Minilites/whatever for the TR fit > the Stag? My wife really likes the low-profile look I got when I put 17" > Mustang wheels on my TR4A, but prefers the classic look of Panasports. Also, > am I correct in believing that the wheel nuts are the same? Last item, who > would have the best price on the ones with the gold spokes (she thinks these > will look really great on her Mallard Stag) > > Thanks in advance, > > Raymond L. Hatfield > '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" > '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" > Little Rock, AR > > Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: > http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr Ray, Just make sure your offsets are right and that the tires (or larger wheels) do not hit the strut tube Clearance there is very tight wider tread or when going to low profile tires and wider wheels. Try to keep the rolling diameter the same or you will run into wheel arch clearance issues. Glenn -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Apr 12 17:26:17 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 16:26:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stant Superstat thermostat, pot test References: <00ef01c89ab6$1ac395d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <20080410002409.DJDD17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <007b01c89cf4$9ba5d970$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> I put a standard and a Superstat 160 degree thermostat (both new Stant) in a pot and heated the water while watching a thermometer. They seemed to start opening at the same time and opened the same amount. The Superstat is a much heavier unit and the disk portion is stainless steel. Stant says the Superstat regulates better, and if it fails, it will fail open. To me that's worth he extra price, it's in the car for the summer. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Scarbrough" To: "Bob" ; ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2008 5:24 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Stant Superstat thermostat > At 10:53 PM 4/9/2008, Bob wrote: > > >Stant makes a higher quality thermostat called the Superstat. > >They say it opens and closes quicker to maintain a more even temperature. > >http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=205&location_id=168 > >They are twice the price. > >Anyone with experience using this product? > > No, but I do know something about thermodynamics... > > I cannot imagine that the mass of water and the mass of the engine > are such that the difference of a few seconds in the changing of a > thermostat would have any noticeable effect on the performance of the > engine. At best, it might dampen the hysteresis somewhat, but I > can't see how that's needed in an otherwise normal engine cooling system. > > > > > Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 > http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/ > Athens, Georgia #354 > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.10/1366 - Release Date: 4/8/2008 5:03 PM From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Apr 12 18:47:03 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 20:47:03 EDT Subject: [TR] Hood/Bonnet Bolts Message-ID: In a message dated 4/12/2008 12:44:51 PM Central Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: > I'm putting the hood/bonnet back on and there's 6 long bolts and 2 short > bolts. I've been cautioned not to mix them up. And while I took lots of nice > pictures of the mounting brackets, I didn't make note of where the 2 short > bolts go. I "think" the 6 long ones go 3 and 3 on the underneath of the hood > while the short ones go 1 and 1 on the side on the hood. Is that correct? > Bob, the short ones go in on the side. If you use too long a bolt there you wind up with a little bump in the hood like mine. I suggest you run them in by hand and make sure they don't bottom out before they tighten. Cheers Dave Massey 57 TR3 71 TR6 80 TR8 From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 13 06:58:41 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 08:58:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TIME-CAPSULE TR3? Message-ID: <08a901c89d66$19d3b8f0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> How come when I do an Ebay 'completed listings' search for the 1959 TR3 that the results do not show the 'TIME-CAPSULE TR3'? Furthermore, this sale (170199490934) no longer even contains the phrase 'TIME-CAPSULE' IN THE TITLE? However, the subtitile does say 'Research' in it? Perhaps the biggest question is why other Ebay TR3's have not already 'waxed eloquent' in their wording in an attempt to approach a $39,000 vehicle? Just Curious, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 286 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Apr 13 07:50:27 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 13:50:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: It is a question for me if you can get OR on aggravated assault charges. It seems I was laying on the garage floor under my car working on the mist tedious exhaust system one can imagine. I vacuum the floor under the car every morning before I go to work on it. So the fact that I am laying in grind dust and a thick layer of the white stuff that comes out fire extinguishers has worn on my nerves a little. When yet another total stranger stops his car in the middle of my remote culta sac and screams "Nice car". I reply with the obligatory "Thank you". Then the passer by screams "What is it?". I', hoping he beloeves it really is a 1932 Bugati Prototype. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get in touch in an instant. Get Windows Live Messenger now. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ getintouch_042008 From team.net at daveola.com Sun Apr 13 11:05:03 2008 From: team.net at daveola.com (Dave's Auto Responder) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 10:05:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] [mf42] SPAM WARNING - REMOVE [re: {SPAM 08.5} Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 184] In-Reply-To: Message-ID: My automated mail filter determined that email you sent me was unsolicited commercial email ("spam") From: triumphs-bounces+team.net=daveola.com at autox.team.net Date: Sun Apr 13 10:05:02 2008 Subject: {SPAM 08.5} Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 184 IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS NOT SPAM: Many apologies for the error! My filter software is not perfect! I have saved (but not read the mail you sent). You can send me a new mail with the subject "CONTACT REQUEST" asking me to read the original, and I'll try to fix whatever caused the email to get flagged as spam. You can also contact me through: http://GetDave.com/Contact/ IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS SPAM: This is in violation of state law because it violates the Terms Of Use of my mail server: http://Daveola.com/Terms/ Do not *ever* mail me again. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 13 11:46:27 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 13:46:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] [mf42] SPAM WARNING - REMOVE [re: {SPAM 08.5} Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 184] In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901c89d8e$502332a0$210110ac@bobspc> Looks like Dave is up to his old tricks yet again! Isn't this considered taking valid mail (List mail to Dave) and turning it into Spam (unwanted mail from Dave)?? Kind of ironic if you ask me. There's another guy on the List who has a similar spam screener i.e. if you're not on his "acceptable" list your email gets bounced with instructions for how to get accepted. He emailed me with a bunch of questions about one of my projects and my response got bounced. Guess who never got an answer :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave's Auto Responder Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 1:05 PM To: triumphs-bounces+team.net=daveola.com at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; triumphs-request at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] [mf42] SPAM WARNING - REMOVE [re: {SPAM 08.5} Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 184] My automated mail filter determined that email you sent me was unsolicited commercial email ("spam") From: triumphs-bounces+team.net=daveola.com at autox.team.net Date: Sun Apr 13 10:05:02 2008 Subject: {SPAM 08.5} Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 184 IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS NOT SPAM: Many apologies for the error! My filter software is not perfect! I have saved (but not read the mail you sent). You can send me a new mail with the subject "CONTACT REQUEST" asking me to read the original, and I'll try to fix whatever caused the email to get flagged as spam. You can also contact me through: http://GetDave.com/Contact/ IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS SPAM: This is in violation of state law because it violates the Terms Of Use of my mail server: http://Daveola.com/Terms/ Do not *ever* mail me again. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1375 - Release Date: 4/12/2008 11:32 AM From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 13 16:31:14 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 18:31:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Breaking up underload Message-ID: <049d01c89db6$16248540$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hi to everyone, Quick question on my 59 TR3A. I have been having intermittent misfiring/sputtering when the car is giving full throttle under load. When stationary you can rev the engine and it climbs right up the tach. No problem. Last week it ran so bad that the carbs were ice cold and generating so much condensation that it stalled the engine with water. The carb domes and bodies are 85-90 degrees. It has a heat shield on it. This weekend I did the following because I had the parts. Replaced the points, reset the ignition wires, changed the rotor, changed the coil (new), reset the carbs, and timing. On start up the car runs great. After about 5 minutes, I start to develop the sputtering when giving it gas. The car will run at 60-70 mph as long as you don't give it excessive gas. It acts almost like it is starving for gas or has water in the lines. Added some gas line antifreeze, no change after about 12-15 mile test run. Did the gas flow check, cleaned out the lines all the way to the carbs, inspected the diaphragm in the mechanical pump, no leaks in the fuel line. Removed an inline glass fuel filter to eliminate a possible restriction there. The car runs at 178 degrees at the sending unit. Gauge reads a little more. Checked all the plug and coil wires. Pushes a little black smoke (running rich-needs different needles). It is running considerably better then last week. When standing still after all this test running, you can give it gas and it climbs right up the tach. No hesitation at all. However, this continues to be a stumper for me. Any suggestions? Alex Manzo 59 TR3A 72 TR6 From team.net at daveola.com Sun Apr 13 16:54:10 2008 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Embarrassed Madison) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 15:54:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Unsubscribing and embarrassed In-Reply-To: <000901c89d8e$502332a0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000901c89d8e$502332a0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: > and turning it into Spam (unwanted mail from Dave)?? Spam is actually unsolicited *commercial* emal, but regardless, I certainly have no right to be sending this junk to the list, and I don't have a clue why my filter is doing what it is doing. So - I'll be unsubscribing until I can figure out what's going on, and reading online if I can. *sigh* > i.e. if you're not on his "acceptable" list your email gets bounced.. I do have the triumphs mailing address on my whitelist, again, I don't know why it claimed it was spam. Oh well. Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Apr 13 17:15:40 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 16:15:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Unsubscribing and embarrassed In-Reply-To: References: <000901c89d8e$502332a0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <3E46F2F838F14A268D41DFA59EBE82C3@GeoPC> Dave -- You do realize that the Triumph list address appears in the 'To' field and not the 'From' field? My filter looks for the [TR] in the subject line to allow the message and to sort it. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Embarrassed Madison" > > I do have the triumphs mailing address on my whitelist, again, > I don't know why it claimed it was spam. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 13 17:18:09 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 19:18:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] handbrake lever backplate pivots Message-ID: <126c01c89dbc$a419b5e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I have already installed a rear wheel cylinder on my late 60 TR3A with Girling 9" brakes. I forgot to put in the emergency brake lever arm, but, it may not be to late to put it on. Are the two little round pivoting arms of the emergency brake lever arm suppose to be sandwiched between the rear wheel cylinder and the backplate? Or are those two round arms suppose to rest only top of the wheel cylinder? Thanks, Paul Dorsey -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 286 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Apr 13 17:33:00 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 19:33:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] clutch bleeding, tr6 Message-ID: <002a01c89dbe$b6931a20$7218b318@alan> I just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. Now,I can't get the slave cylinder to retract. It doesn't get any movement until the piston is about to come out of the cylinder. And then it pulls the rubber cap off. I've bleed clutches many times before and this time I can't figure out whats wrong. Is it me or the slave cylinder???? Thanks, Al Salvatore From rgperry at earthlink.net Sun Apr 13 18:43:33 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 19:43:33 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 Message-ID: <1568207.1208133813656.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Al, first thought: Check the arrangement of the cylinder and mounting plate. The clutch slave cylinder slides into the rear (transmission side) of the mounting plate. The clutch mounting plate attaches to the front of the engine plate (engine side). second thought: Make sure the bleeder screw is on top not the bottom. third thought: The push rod fork attaches to the middle hole in the clutch shaft arm. The slave cylinder piston/ clutch shaft arm only moves 1/2 inch when working properly. fourth thought: If the orientation is correct, then the clutch fork pin is probably broken allowing the clutch fork to move. Regards, Greg Perry From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Apr 13 18:58:31 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 20:58:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 References: <1568207.1208133813656.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <004b01c89dca$a8843390$7218b318@alan> Problem started a few days ago, coincided with loss of clutch fluid, then clutch was grabbing near the floor. Then no clutch at all, thats what prompted the rebuilds. All those bases are covered. I'll try replacing the slave cylinder tomorrow. The clutch shaft was replaced in the clutch rebuild, I wonder if the lever is welded on, off a few degrees. Al ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 8:43 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 > Al, > > first thought: Check the arrangement of the cylinder and mounting plate. > The clutch slave cylinder slides into the rear (transmission side) of the > mounting plate. The clutch mounting plate attaches to the front of the > engine plate (engine side). > 1. Its mounted correctly. > second thought: Make sure the bleeder screw is on top not the bottom. 2. Bleeders on top. > > third thought: The push rod fork attaches to the middle hole in the clutch > shaft arm. The slave cylinder piston/ clutch shaft arm only moves 1/2 inch > when working properly. 3. Yep, 2nd hole. > > fourth thought: If the orientation is correct, then the clutch fork pin > is probably broken allowing the clutch fork to move. > 4. All new components were installed a few weeks ago, when new clutch was put in. > Regards, Greg Perry > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1375 - Release Date: > 4/12/2008 11:32 AM From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sun Apr 13 19:58:06 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 21:58:06 EDT Subject: [TR] TIME-CAPSULE TR3? Message-ID: In a message dated 4/13/2008 9:01:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes: Perhaps the biggest question is why other Ebay TR3's have not already 'waxed eloquent' in their wording in an attempt to approach a $39,000 vehicle? ==AM== Probably because there are very, very few genuine, extremely well-preserved ORIGINAL TR3s about which to wax poetic!? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850) From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Apr 13 20:57:01 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 22:57:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position Message-ID: <001d01c89ddb$365e7da0$374b3b47@Scott> I would like to take an unscientific poll of the TR6 owners (or other TRers) on the list as to the orientation of your distributor. I am dealing with a long time issue that has never caused enough concern to hinder my driving fun but after thinking more about it, I am not sure if it may be something I need to address. When looking at your distributor from the driver's side of the engine bay, what position does your advance/retard (if you have one) point in orientation to your engine block? Mine is pointing almost to my headlamp bucket, about as retarded as you can go. I have seen pictures of other 6s/TRs set up this way but have also seen as many or even more that seem to run more parallel to the block. I seem to have to have mine in this position to hit the timing mark, which does not seem correct. I have had discussions of the distributor being off a tooth on my drive gear or am over compensating with my idle screw setting. So what do you all say? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Apr 13 21:22:29 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 21:22:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] TTA Stag update, needs somebody parts Message-ID: <4802CDF5.3070105@tscusa.org> Hello All, I just got a call this evening from the StagMeister heading up the TTA Stag restoration teams with some very encouraging update news! The undercarriage is now void of all undercoating, much of the paint has been stripped, and the body metal spots are being repaired. Within the next three weekends, the teams want to have this chassis in primer ready for spray, engine bay and underside chassis painted and coated. It appears the front right 1/4 was hit once a while back and the repair was all bondo slathered into holes drilled to hold the bondo in place. Apparently quite the mess hidden under a white respray, and not really something that can be banged out and welded up. That was the only bad news, everything else looks great or has already been patched with new metal. So, the project needs either a good solid right 1/4 panel and a driver side door skin to get this car ready for sanding and primer. Anyone got something laying around we can get quick access to? We would like to get something in the mail this week to keep up with this aggressive group of workers. These restoration teams are cranking away on all parts like a bunch of crazy Triumph owners on a mission! If they keep up at this pace, this TTA Stag could be running before summer is over!! And if we let them put the tools down, they might go work on their own cars!! I should have some update photos up on the TTA site sometime this week. In the mean time I have John Mac contact the various Stag suppliers to see what can be sourced and shipped this week if no one has anything immediately on hand. Don't forget, US enthusiasts could put your Economic Stimulus check to good use completing this restoration, so if you have not pledged and donated yet, please do help support this charity and epic drive!! Cheers! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 13 21:38:46 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 20:38:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position In-Reply-To: <001d01c89ddb$365e7da0$374b3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <642279.95465.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN1418.JPG on the 72 parallel, pointing to the driver my 69 runs parallel, and i believe the advance points to the driver, but it has two so i'm not sure. Scott Suhring wrote: I would like to take an unscientific poll of the TR6 owners (or other TRers) on the list as to the orientation of your distributor. I am dealing with a long time issue that has never caused enough concern to hinder my driving fun but after thinking more about it, I am not sure if it may be something I need to address. When looking at your distributor from the driver's side of the engine bay, what position does your advance/retard (if you have one) point in orientation to your engine block? Mine is pointing almost to my headlamp bucket, about as retarded as you can go. I have seen pictures of other 6s/TRs set up this way but have also seen as many or even more that seem to run more parallel to the block. I seem to have to have mine in this position to hit the timing mark, which does not seem correct. I have had discussions of the distributor being off a tooth on my drive gear or am over compensating with my idle screw setting. So what do you all say? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 ___ From tom628 at verizon.net Sun Apr 13 22:23:36 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 00:23:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Breaking up underload References: <049d01c89db6$16248540$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <003001c89de7$4f424b10$2f01a8c0@Toms> Alex: Our TR6 experienced similar symptoms with a bad condenser. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 6:31 PM Subject: [TR] Breaking up underload > Hi to everyone, > Quick question on my 59 TR3A. I have been having intermittent > misfiring/sputtering when the car is giving full throttle under load. When > stationary you can rev the engine and it climbs right up the tach. No > problem. > Last week it ran so bad that the carbs were ice cold and generating so > much > condensation that it stalled the engine with water. The carb domes and > bodies > are 85-90 degrees. It has a heat shield on it. This weekend I did the > following because I had the parts. Replaced the points, reset the ignition > wires, changed the rotor, changed the coil (new), reset the carbs, and > timing. > On start up the car runs great. After about 5 minutes, I start to develop > the > sputtering when giving it gas. The car will run at 60-70 mph as long as > you > don't give it excessive gas. It acts almost like it is starving for gas or > has > water in the lines. Added some gas line antifreeze, no change after about > 12-15 mile test run. Did the gas flow check, cleaned out the lines all the > way > to the carbs, inspected the diaphragm in the mechanical pump, no leaks in > the > fuel line. Removed an inline glass fuel filter to eliminate a possible > restriction there. The car runs at 178 degrees at the sending unit. Gauge > reads a little more. Checked all the plug and coil wires. Pushes a little > black smoke (running rich-needs different needles). It is running > considerably > better then last week. When standing still after all this test running, > you > can give it gas and it climbs right up the tach. No hesitation at all. > However, this continues to be a stumper for me. Any suggestions? > Alex Manzo > 59 TR3A > 72 TR6 > _______________________________________________ From tom628 at verizon.net Sun Apr 13 22:40:36 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 00:40:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position References: <001d01c89ddb$365e7da0$374b3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <005901c89de9$af888640$2f01a8c0@Toms> Scott: On our '76, the (retard) capsule points to the rear of the car, approximately 25 deg. CCW of parallel to the engine block. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Suhring" To: "Triumph Mail List" Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 10:57 PM Subject: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position >I would like to take an unscientific poll of the TR6 owners (or other >TRers) > on the list as to the orientation of your distributor. I am dealing with > a > long time issue that has never caused enough concern to hinder my driving > fun but after thinking more about it, I am not sure if it may be something > I > need to address. > > When looking at your distributor from the driver's side of the engine bay, > what position does your advance/retard (if you have one) point in > orientation to your engine block? Mine is pointing almost to my headlamp > bucket, about as retarded as you can go. I have seen pictures of other > 6s/TRs set up this way but have also seen as many or even more that seem > to > run more parallel to the block. I seem to have to have mine in this > position to hit the timing mark, which does not seem correct. I have had > discussions of the distributor being off a tooth on my drive gear or am > over > compensating with my idle screw setting. > > So what do you all say? TIA > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3 > _______________________________________________ From thebujas at comcast.net Mon Apr 14 00:16:33 2008 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 01:16:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Breaking up underload In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Tom wrote: > Our TR6 experienced similar symptoms with a bad condenser. >> Quick question on my 59 TR3A. I have been having intermittent >> misfiring/sputtering when the car is giving full throttle under load. Alex, As the condenser gets worse the misfiring will occur at lower and lower RPMs to the point where the engine may idle but won't accept any load. You may also have a intermittent ignition coil lead or spark plug lead. I'd replace the condenser first, then look at the wires. Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Mon Apr 14 05:20:37 2008 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:20:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Exhaust and alternator problems Message-ID: I got the car out for a coffee run with my daughter yesterday and I was rolling fat when the negative battery cable fell off. (I've got one of those negative battery cut off switches Moss part 145-795 and the cable being mounted horizontally instead of vertically can work off the post) In a flash I blew out the regulator on my rebuilt Delco- Remy alt. and due to a backfire blew out the aging muffler. That's right Jay now I can't hear the clunk form the rear end. has anyone put Super Turbo exhaust system on their six? I'd like to replace the regulator on the alternator. Does anyone know of a source for a thirty year old regulator or even a shop that has the capacity to repair it? Any help appreciated. Bob Rochlin 72 TR6 From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Apr 14 08:21:27 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:21:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position References: Message-ID: <000e01c89e3a$d3c9ab00$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Hi Scott, My 70 TR6 distributor is as you say almost parallel to block. Firewall side actually points in line with the fuel pump. Regards, Bob > I would like to take an unscientific poll of the TR6 owners (or other TRers) > on the list as to the orientation of your distributor. I am dealing with a > long time issue that has never caused enough concern to hinder my driving > fun but after thinking more about it, I am not sure if it may be something I > need to address. > > When looking at your distributor from the driver's side of the engine bay, > what position does your advance/retard (if you have one) point in > orientation to your engine block? Mine is pointing almost to my headlamp > bucket, about as retarded as you can go. I have seen pictures of other > 6s/TRs set up this way but have also seen as many or even more that seem to > run more parallel to the block. I seem to have to have mine in this > position to hit the timing mark, which does not seem correct. I have had > discussions of the distributor being off a tooth on my drive gear or am over > compensating with my idle screw setting. > > So what do you all say? TIA > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3 From DLylis at aol.com Mon Apr 14 05:56:09 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:56:09 EDT Subject: [TR] sharpening adjusting screw Message-ID: Paul, I don't know if you have heard from others on this as I have been away. Do not grind, file, etc. in your steering box to remove the "stiffness" in your steering. Find out what the problem is. In an earlier post you talked about removing the front plate of the box to insert the stator tube. It is entirely possible that in replacing it you have captured the worm too tightly and therefore introduced this issue. Disconnect your tie rod ends and work backwards to find out where the binding is located. There is little or no friction with that pin you are considering filing, unless, of course, it is tightened unnecessarily tight. I have found that proper adjustment of the pin is a more delicate procedure than imagined, and properly adjusted will produce steering wheel action that is not too tight nor too loose, and will meet the specs described in the manuals. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850) From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Apr 14 07:34:44 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 09:34:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 References: <27494-4802F4D7-5785@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <001101c89e34$4dc05f00$7218b318@alan> If thats correct, then thats the problem. The arm is vertical when pulled to the front, not to the rear. When pulled to the rear it angles back to the rear and out of reach of the slave cylinder rod. The clutch shaft was just installed, not sure how it could be installed wrong. I guess I'll try some spacers or washers to move the slave cylinder farther back. thanks Al Al----The three-holed clutch operating shaft should be near vertical when pulling the arm towards the rear of the car. This puts the throwout bearing and associated linkage up against the clutch fingers. At this point there should be no play. When connecting the SC pushrod to the clutch arm, this 'rod should be nestled into the SC piston depression. The piston should be well back into the SC bore, so it should not come out when depressing the clutch pedal. Of course, as mentioned by another lister, the SC must be mounted in the correct position on the engine backplate. Otherwise it has to reach too far. Dick From: tr6parts at charter.net(Alan Salvatore) I just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. Now,I can't get the slave cylinder to retract. It doesn't get any movement until the piston is about to come out of the cylinder. And then it pulls the rubber cap off. I've bleed clutches many times before and this time I can't figure out whats wrong. Is it me or the slave cylinder???? Thanks, Al Salvatore ______________________________________ -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1375 - Release Date: 4/12/2008 11:32 AM From rgperry at earthlink.net Mon Apr 14 07:43:56 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 08:43:56 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position Message-ID: <1996585.1208180637068.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net> My 72 vacuum retard points to the rubber coupling on the steering shaft (left hand drive). Greg Perry From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Apr 14 09:45:39 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:45:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 References: <27494-4802F4D7-5785@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> <001101c89e34$4dc05f00$7218b318@alan> Message-ID: <003d01c89e46$96c87cc0$7218b318@alan> I put 4 washers behind the slave cylinder to move it out; so now its working. Probably next weekend I'll have to pull the tranny out to see whats amiss. Not looking forward to that adventure again. Thanks for all the help, guys. Al > If thats correct, then thats the problem. > > The arm is vertical when pulled to the front, not to the rear. > When pulled to the rear it angles back to the rear and out of reach of the > slave cylinder rod. > > The clutch shaft was just installed, not sure how it could be installed > wrong. > > I guess I'll try some spacers or washers to move the slave cylinder > farther > back. > > thanks > > Al > > > > > Al----The three-holed clutch operating shaft should be near vertical > when pulling the arm towards the rear of the car. This puts the throwout > bearing and associated linkage up against the clutch fingers. At this > point there should be no play. > When connecting the SC pushrod to the clutch arm, this 'rod should be > nestled into the SC piston depression. The piston should be well back > into the SC bore, so it should not come out when depressing the clutch > pedal. > Of course, as mentioned by another lister, the SC must be mounted in the > correct position on the engine backplate. Otherwise it has to reach too > far. > > Dick > > From: tr6parts at charter.net(Alan Salvatore) > > I just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. Now,I > can't get the slave cylinder to retract. It doesn't get any movement > until the piston is about to come out of the cylinder. > And then it pulls the rubber cap off. > I've bleed clutches many times before and this time I can't figure out > whats wrong. > Is it me or the slave cylinder???? > Thanks, > Al Salvatore > ______________________________________ > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1375 - Release Date: > 4/12/2008 > 11:32 AM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1377 - Release Date: > 4/14/2008 9:26 AM From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 14 11:58:17 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 13:58:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition type coil Message-ID: <001c01c89e59$1ef7e6a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am gullible and bought another ebay item that may be needed. I bought an Electronic ignition type coil http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=024&sspagename=ST RK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=370040323641&rd=1 At some point in the future I plan to convert my TR3 from pos. grnd. to neg. grnd. and then install a Petronix neg. ignition and the above type coil. Why is this type coil "better"? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 318 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From mikey22 at prodigy.net Mon Apr 14 12:17:08 2008 From: mikey22 at prodigy.net (MIKE CARROLL) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:17:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position Message-ID: <284009.80977.qm@web83609.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> My 74 TR-6 points at the driver From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Apr 14 12:23:15 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 13:23:15 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position Message-ID: <28738610.1251991208197395571.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> So does my 72 TR6.....Craig From: MIKE CARROLL Date: 2008/04/14 Mon PM 01:17:08 CDT To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position My 74 TR-6 points at the driver This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Apr 14 15:34:52 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 14:34:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRs and Stags and Wheels (Oh My!) In-Reply-To: <550481.82580.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <002a01c899af$80482f40$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <550481.82580.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Raymond, Tony Hart mentioned something on the stag list many moons ago about not recommending changing the wheels from the standard 14" and tires on the Stag. I didn't save the email. But basically it had to do with handling. I myself like the idea of 16' or 17" wheels on the Stag. Sujit On 4/11/08, Raymond Hatfield wrote: > > Hello Y'all, > > Negotiating with the wife on how to spend our tax refund, and I need a > little > help from the list. Will the 16" Panasports/Minilites/whatever for the TR > fit > the Stag? My wife really likes the low-profile look I got when I put 17" > Mustang wheels on my TR4A, but prefers the classic look of > Panasports. Also, > am I correct in believing that the wheel nuts are the same? Last item, > who > would have the best price on the ones with the gold spokes (she thinks > these > will look really great on her Mallard Stag) > > Thanks in advance, > > > Raymond L. Hatfield > '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" > '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" > Little Rock, AR > > Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: > http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as triumphstag at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From FordneyNJ at aol.com Mon Apr 14 17:49:48 2008 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 19:49:48 EDT Subject: [TR] Free TR6 Message-ID: I received this from a member of our club via a Healey list. Anyone interested? Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ TR4A IRS CTC60536L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA 400612 President, Positive Earth Drivers Club Greetings Healey lists, A friend has informed me that he (his wife) wants the TR6 out of his driveway...soon. It is free to whomever wants it. It does have a title...other than that it's a non running basket case. THe car is located in Glen Rock, NJ (Northern NJ). Please contact Scott directly at rskesq at msn.com Also if anyone is on the Triumph list please forward this email to those members. Thanks George Marinos Glen Rock, N J ************** It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850) From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Mon Apr 14 19:58:24 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 21:58:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] !949 Triumph For Sale - seems reasonable Message-ID: <27854991.1208224705219.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Gang, He wants $9,000 for it looks pretty good - Is in the LA area Best, Rick http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/car/638957731.html From DLylis at aol.com Mon Apr 14 20:12:11 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 22:12:11 EDT Subject: [TR] handbrake lever backplate pivots Message-ID: They are supposed to be sandwiched between the cylinder detents and the back plate. The bad news is that you are likely going to have to remove those clips that hold the cylinder in place to get enough opening. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850) From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Apr 14 20:20:26 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 22:20:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: SU leaks Message-ID: <002301c89e9f$449986c0$0d463b47@Scott> I am posting this for a friend. He is frustrated and is looking for some ideas. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 _____ From: John Krause [mailto:jktr250 at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 9:53 PM To: Scott Suhring Subject: SU leaks Scott, can you post this for me? SU leaks. I rebuilt my TR3 H-Series SU carburetors and they both leaked around the jet assembly. So I replaced the cork seal, after soaking it in oil, a second time and then used the Moss Motors O-Ring (leak-free replacement for the small cork seal), but they still leak. I am certain that I have them assembled correctly. They do not appear to be dripping, but the jet assembly is always wet with fuel. Any suggestions? From wbeech at flash.net Mon Apr 14 20:35:55 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 20:35:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] FW: SU leaks In-Reply-To: <002301c89e9f$449986c0$0d463b47@Scott> References: <002301c89e9f$449986c0$0d463b47@Scott> Message-ID: <003801c89ea1$6f08f380$6401a8c0@sniffer> List, Exactly the problem I had with mine this past summer, wet but not dripping fuel. Please include me in your response to Scott. Thanks, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Suhring Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 8:20 PM To: Triumph Mail List Subject: [TR] FW: SU leaks I am posting this for a friend. He is frustrated and is looking for some ideas. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 _____ From: John Krause [mailto:jktr250 at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 9:53 PM To: Scott Suhring Subject: SU leaks Scott, can you post this for me? SU leaks. I rebuilt my TR3 H-Series SU carburetors and they both leaked around the jet assembly. So I replaced the cork seal, after soaking it in oil, a second time and then used the Moss Motors O-Ring (leak-free replacement for the small cork seal), but they still leak. I am certain that I have them assembled correctly. They do not appear to be dripping, but the jet assembly is always wet with fuel. Any suggestions? This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com Mon Apr 14 21:53:26 2008 From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 17:53:26 -1000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position References: <284009.80977.qm@web83609.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <005c01c89eac$43191560$6401a8c0@PamHome> My '74 does the same. Mark Bullard '74 TR6 Kailua, HI ----- Original Message ----- From: "MIKE CARROLL" To: Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 8:17 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position > My 74 TR-6 points at the driver From brad.kahler at 141.com Mon Apr 14 21:55:17 2008 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 20:55:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] !949 Triumph For Sale - seems reasonable In-Reply-To: <27854991.1208224705219.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <27854991.1208224705219.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <48042725.8020306@141.com> Rick, Thanks for the heads up on the car. It is NOW sold! I just finished making a down payment for the car and will picking it up sometime in the next week or two. Thanks! Brad rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net wrote: > Gang, > > He wants $9,000 for it looks pretty good - Is in the LA area > > Best, > > Rick > > http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/car/638957731.html > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as brad.kahler at 141.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 14 22:00:14 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 00:00:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition type coil FOLLOWUP Message-ID: <003901c89ead$367afde0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Earlier today I mentioned that I had bought an 'Electronic ignition type coil' it is a Magnition Sorensen Mag Coil model SC-27X. I called up the place in MN that sells them and the man said they have 4-5 different types. The one I bought is for a Triumph, however, another one (that looks just like it) and is for a Cadillac is shown at: I called the place that sells them and asked the man about the difference. He didn't explain much besides saying that these coils were epoxy filled instead of oil filled. Does anyone know why these are coils are electronic ignition type? I'll have to admit that it was the $23 cost plus shipping that interested me. At some point in the future I plan to convert my TR3 from pos. grnd. to neg. grnd. and then install a Petronix neg. ignition and the above type coil. Why is this type coil "better"? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 318 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Apr 14 22:12:16 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 00:12:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Distributor Position In-Reply-To: <005c01c89eac$43191560$6401a8c0@PamHome> Message-ID: <4803F2E0.10925.1A750DEA@localhost> > My 74 TR-6 points at the driver My GT6 points down the road. I wouldn't want a car pointed at me. or any other driver. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Tue Apr 15 03:54:41 2008 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 05:54:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition type coil FOLLOWUP References: <003901c89ead$367afde0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <002801c89ede$ba463230$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> > Does anyone know why these are coils are electronic ignition type? Marketing. The company is marketing to old timers with old time cars. Saying something is "electronic ignition" can make their hearts go pitter-patter, or so the seller hopes. Oil workes well, but is prone to leaking out when the coil cracks. Something they can do. Coil cracks, oil leaks out, coil overheats and fails. Epoxy doesn't leak out when the coil cracks, so it's a little less likely to fail. From billtr4 at hotmail.com Tue Apr 15 07:50:46 2008 From: billtr4 at hotmail.com (bill schuld) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 08:50:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 for sale Message-ID: My 63 TR4 is for sale on the VTR classifieds. Bill _________________________________________________________________ Get in touch in an instant. Get Windows Live Messenger now. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ getintouch_042008 From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com Tue Apr 15 08:13:36 2008 From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw at peoplepc.com) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 10:13:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable Message-ID: <006a01c89f02$e59446b0$0101a8c0@w8u6d1> A while back I thought I saw a comment on the list about replacement speedo cables causing damage to speedo gauges due to the insertion portion being too long. I replaced my cable several months ago and know my speedo indicator "dances" while at speed. If anyone has information I look forward to your response. Also, if it is too long what length should it be. Can anything be done by a novice to cure the "dancing"? If a rebuild is necessary who would you recommend? Thanks. Doug Nelson 74TR6 From supertr6 at earthlink.net Tue Apr 15 11:26:45 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 13:26:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable In-Reply-To: <006a01c89f02$e59446b0$0101a8c0@w8u6d1> References: <006a01c89f02$e59446b0$0101a8c0@w8u6d1> Message-ID: <4804E555.10105@earthlink.net> I've used Mo-Ma in NM and they are great. They are the ones that told me about the speedo cable issue. I don't remember how long it needs to be, however, if you send the cable with the speedo, they will cut it to the correct length. Joe dmnlaw at peoplepc.com wrote: > A while back I thought I saw a comment on the list about replacement speedo > cables causing damage to speedo gauges due to the insertion portion being too > long. I replaced my cable several months ago and know my speedo indicator > "dances" while at speed. If anyone has information I look forward to your > response. Also, if it is too long what length should it be. Can anything be > done by a novice to cure the "dancing"? If a rebuild is necessary who would > you recommend? > Thanks. > > Doug Nelson > 74TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Tue Apr 15 11:25:20 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 10:25:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] SU leaks In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <01f501c89f1d$ae7c5170$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Scott, I had this same issue with my recently finished '67 4a (HS6's) after I spent countless hours and significant money on rebuild parts. I replaced the stock needle valves with the gross jet ball valves - why? Seemed like they were less prone to sticking closed. I found that if you didn't tighten these valves really tight, they leaked around the seal, causing fuel to overfill the bowl under pressure and leak out around the jet assembly and drip from the bottom of it. I have since tightened the gross jets and now have a leak free (fuel at least...) TR. Hope this helps. Brian '67 TR4a ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 22:20:26 -0400 From: "Scott Suhring" Subject: [TR] FW: SU leaks To: "Triumph Mail List" Message-ID: <002301c89e9f$449986c0$0d463b47 at Scott> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am posting this for a friend. He is frustrated and is looking for some ideas. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 _____ From: John Krause [mailto:jktr250 at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 9:53 PM To: Scott Suhring Subject: SU leaks Scott, can you post this for me? SU leaks. I rebuilt my TR3 H-Series SU carburetors and they both leaked around the jet assembly. So I replaced the cork seal, after soaking it in oil, a second time and then used the Moss Motors O-Ring (leak-free replacement for the small cork seal), but they still leak. I am certain that I have them assembled correctly. They do not appear to be dripping, but the jet assembly is always wet with fuel. Any suggestions? From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Apr 15 12:16:01 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 14:16:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable References: <006a01c89f02$e59446b0$0101a8c0@w8u6d1> Message-ID: <037601c89f24$c32f11a0$ed197247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Certainly ==not== NISSONGER==, they ripped me off for $190.00 on a clock repair, never again. "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:13 AM Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable >A while back I thought I saw a comment on the list about replacement speedo > cables causing damage to speedo gauges due to the insertion portion being > too > long. I replaced my cable several months ago and know my speedo indicator > "dances" while at speed. If anyone has information I look forward to your > response. Also, if it is too long what length should it be. Can anything > be > done by a novice to cure the "dancing"? If a rebuild is necessary who > would > you recommend? > Thanks. > > Doug Nelson > 74TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Apr 15 17:17:36 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 19:17:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] New Clutch M/C Stuff Message-ID: <000001c89f4e$e6bd72e0$210110ac@bobspc> I just got a new Girling, made in China, clutch M/C from TRF. When I opened it up there was an oil-like substance coating the inside. My only thought was that they put this in there to keep the seals fresh. What's the best way to flush it out? Just run some brake fluif through it? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Apr 15 18:16:39 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 20:16:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] LBC tales and woes Message-ID: <48050D27.14894.1EC3B287@localhost> It's been a strange week. First, I tried re-setting my GT6 valves to .012" in response to a suggestion that perhaps a PO had installed a non-stock cam. I can't say that the engine runs much cleaner. One big difference is that now I have a dozen squirrels operating sewing machines under the hood. Perhaps I should set them to .011". :-) Next item. I tried to fit a new starter to the Spitfire, the brushes I received being not even close to what came out of the car. The new starter wouldn't fit either. The new one has a thinner mounting flange so that the bendix gear and even the screws holding that flange stick out further. Quick call to Spitbits, and Nigel tells me it needs the spacer, that maybe I dropped it when I took the old starter out. I say no, the old starter has a thicker flange and there ain't no spacer. He says he's never heard of a Spitfire that didn't have one. Well, a spacer about 1/4" thick would just about make the new one match the old one. Fortunately he had a few used ones and so dropped one in the mail, for a suitable though nominal fee of course. Yesterday the GT6 horn stopped working. On the way home this evening in the GT6 I flipped the turn signal switch on then off and I noticed that the indicator light didn't turn off. Then the fine Lucas wiring sacrificed itself to protect the fine Lucas fuse, and in so doing release some of the smoke from the turn signal circuit, the smoke emerging from the left side of the steering column up near the wheel. Ah, at least all the other electrical stuff worked, such as the headlights. Hmmm, maybe I should check the brake lights. Maybe it is related to the horn failure too. Anyway, the GT6 will now remain parked until the weekend. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Apr 15 18:27:03 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 00:27:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] 1948 Austin (NFI) FYI Message-ID: <041620080027.26255.480547D70009E4790000668F22155612649C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Antique 1948 Austin 4 door sedan - $3000 (Lakes (exit 23) Bristol) Reply to: sale-638426742 at craigslist.org Date: 2008-04-11, 10:58AM EDT Here is a 1948 Austin 4 door sedan. Not perfect, but inspected and drivable. Who know how many miles? Has incorrect sezts (heated power seats from a Mazda), but I do have the origionals that need recovering. New brakes and a treasure trove of spare parts including: spare engine and transmission (condition unknown). full instruments, complete front suspension and steering, and lots of misc. smaller parts. New leather interior panels. 1/2 (top) of grill and "flying A" hood ortament gold plated. Chrome on grill and hood replated. New (incorrect) door handles, inside and out. New tires, but slightly oversized. Body, floors and frame solid. Not so good is the headliner. It's there and intact but very fragle. The sunroof (factory) leaks a little. Some weatherstripping is old and fragle. The brakes sometimes "groan"?? But I do intend to look at that soon. The wiring is old and ugly but works. Paint job is not the best. A very drivable and unique machine that sips fuel. 960cc engine (or thereabouts) si kinda underpowered for NH's hills, but will do 70 on the Interstate. Garaged all Winter. Can be seen in Bristol most anytime. Is ad is still posted, I still have it. I really do hate to sell, but way too many vehicles. PLEASE do NOT make an offer. The price is absolutely firm and rock bottom. Will be more as the weather warms. Better photos upon request. Doesn't looks as bad as this photo, but I had to shrink the file for CL........Call Pete 744-8284 or cell 566-1944 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Apr 15 18:46:22 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 20:46:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] New Clutch M/C Stuff In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601c89f5b$4daca6e0$210110ac@bobspc> My bad.........it's a product of India......I guess along with Call Centers they're making car parts too. It came in a generic white TRF box Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ________________________________ From: ZoboHerald at aol.com [mailto:ZoboHerald at aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 8:37 PM To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Subject: Re: [TR] New Clutch M/C Stuff In a message dated 4/15/2008 7:18:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: I just got a new Girling, made in China, clutch M/C from TRF. When I opened it up there was an oil-like substance coating the inside. My only thought was that they put this in there to keep the seals fresh. What's the best way to flush it out? Just run some brake fluif through it? Aaargh! Is it REALLY made in China? What packaging? Lucas/TRW? or something else? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: http://triumph-herald.us ________________________________ It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance . No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1378 - Release Date: 4/15/2008 9:12 AM From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Apr 15 18:40:01 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 19:40:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] New Clutch M/C Stuff In-Reply-To: <000601c89f5b$4daca6e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000601c89f5b$4daca6e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <200804152040.02562.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 15 April 2008 08:46 pm, Bob Danielson wrote: > My bad.........it's a product of India......I guess along with Call Centers > they're making car parts too. It came in a generic white TRF box > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > Bob, I would rinse it out with alcohol followed by brake fluid. Bob (L) From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 15 20:04:41 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 22:04:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A Message-ID: <083101c89f66$3c7face0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Follow up on the sputtering/misfiring. Changed out the champions with NGK's BP6HS. (normal range) Marked improvement but still not there. Pulled the plugs after 10 miles of 98% performance through the entire range. Top speed with little or no breakup 90 mph. All 4 plugs covered in soot. I think the problem is still there causing the fouling of the plugs. It will only be a matter of time. So my question is........Bentley calls for a plug cap of .032". Moss spec sheet for TR2 through TR4A .025". My plugs are set at .025". Any opinions. Tomorrow I will switch out my sport coil from my TR6, new distributor cap, compression check, timing. I want to change out one at a time so I can zero in on the culprit. Needless to it still has the "SM" needles. "SL" (lean) will be in the mix. Alex Manzo From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 15 20:41:23 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 22:41:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A References: <083101c89f66$3c7face0$6401a8c0@STATION6> <001601c89f68$6fef5470$8115a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <085301c89f6b$5e4730a0$6401a8c0@STATION6> And an excellent one. Wires are new (2000) miles but I suspect them. They look good (bumble bee) but the plug caps do not sit tightly on the plugs. This will be part of the process of elimination. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oliver" To: "Alex" Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:18 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A > with a new, more powerful coil, you can gap plugs to .035. have you > replaced the wires?/ > > just a thought . . . > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Alex" > To: "Triumph List" > Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 9:04 PM > Subject: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A > > >> Follow up on the sputtering/misfiring. Changed out the champions with >> NGK's >> BP6HS. (normal range) Marked improvement but still not there. Pulled the >> plugs >> after 10 miles of 98% performance through the entire range. Top speed >> with >> little or no breakup 90 mph. All 4 plugs covered in soot. I think the >> problem >> is still there causing the fouling of the plugs. It will only be a matter >> of >> time. So my question is........Bentley calls for a plug cap of .032". >> Moss >> spec sheet for TR2 through TR4A .025". My plugs are set at .025". Any >> opinions. Tomorrow I will switch out my sport coil from my TR6, new >> distributor cap, compression check, timing. I want to change out one at a >> time >> so I can zero in on the culprit. Needless to it still has the "SM" >> needles. >> "SL" (lean) will be in the mix. >> Alex Manzo >> _______________________________________________ From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 15 20:43:57 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 22:43:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A References: <243753.79138.qm@web65408.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <085a01c89f6b$b8c3dce0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Almost all that I speak to with TR3's say they all run rich. Will definitely check out the site. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: karl sisson To: Alex Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:27 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A Check out this site : A Stumble at Cruise Su's and Timing This fellow has gone thru a lot trying to track down a stumble at 3000 to3500 rpm on his MGB.Even though it is a B a lot of what he discovered apllies to Triumphs as well. There are lots of emails from othersoffering advice and input. It seems that distributor advance curve is critical. I'm having stumbling issues with my TR3 and sooty plugs so I'm taking the advice of those on the British car forum and am sending my distributor in to Jeff at Advanced Distributors to get the the dist curved to go with the street cam and header mods on my 3. Once I install the improved dist I'm going to try RH(richer) needles in the SU's as that is what is called for if you are running a header. ----- Original Message ---- From: Alex To: Triumph List Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 9:04:41 PM Subject: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A Follow up on the sputtering/misfiring. Changed out the champions with NGK's BP6HS. (normal range) Marked improvement but still not there. Pulled the plugs after 10 miles of 98% performance through the entire range. Top speed with little or no breakup 90 mph. All 4 plugs covered in soot. I think the problem is still there causing the fouling of the plugs. It will only be a matter of time. So my question is........Bentley calls for a plug cap of .032". Moss spec sheet for TR2 through TR4A .025". My plugs are set at .025". Any opinions. Tomorrow I will switch out my sport coil from my TR6, new distributor cap, compression check, timing. I want to change out one at a time so I can zero in on the culprit. Needless to it still has the "SM" needles. "SL" (lean) will be in the mix. Alex Manzo _______________________________________________ From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 15 20:48:16 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 22:48:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A References: <083101c89f66$3c7face0$6401a8c0@STATION6> <056a01c89f6b$9287ceb0$ed197247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <085f01c89f6c$5321d670$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hi Fred, I am on my 2nd new condenser. Not being an electronic wiz, I must assume 1 of them is good. So I will be looking at the carbs after I get the electrics eliminated. My research is pointing to weak ignition voltage, poor cylinder compression, wires, plugs and of course points, condenser, rotor and cap. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "FRED E THOMAS" To: "Alex" Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:42 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A > Only part that will cause the problems you describe are "CONDENSER" , > misadjusted float valve, misadjusted needle valve, I'll bet on the > condenser. " > FT" > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Alex" > To: "Triumph List" > Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:04 PM > Subject: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A > > >> Follow up on the sputtering/misfiring. Changed out the champions with >> NGK's >> BP6HS. (normal range) Marked improvement but still not there. Pulled the >> plugs >> after 10 miles of 98% performance through the entire range. Top speed >> with >> little or no breakup 90 mph. All 4 plugs covered in soot. I think the >> problem >> is still there causing the fouling of the plugs. It will only be a matter >> of >> time. So my question is........Bentley calls for a plug cap of .032". >> Moss >> spec sheet for TR2 through TR4A .025". My plugs are set at .025". Any >> opinions. Tomorrow I will switch out my sport coil from my TR6, new >> distributor cap, compression check, timing. I want to change out one at a >> time >> so I can zero in on the culprit. Needless to it still has the "SM" >> needles. >> "SL" (lean) will be in the mix. >> Alex Manzo >> _______________________________________________ From wquincy at cox.net Wed Apr 16 00:15:54 2008 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 01:15:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] sticking calipers Message-ID: <708EAA60-FC4A-42E4-83CC-2FBB3048D02C@cox.net> Greetings listers, I have just assembled all new brake components, master cylinders and calipers rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics, new hard and rubber lines. Yet I have sticking calipers. Any Thought? Bill Quincy Wichita Kansas TR3A From DLylis at aol.com Wed Apr 16 05:04:21 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 07:04:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A Message-ID: Alex, I use bumble bees on my 60 as I like the "vintage look" however the connection between the plug cap and the wire is funky at best. I had an old set of wires from my 6 and pulled off the rubber end caps and put them on so the wire and the cap are more positively connected. Problem gone. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850) From ambritts at bellsouth.net Wed Apr 16 05:19:27 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 07:19:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A References: Message-ID: <088601c89fb3$bc7907f0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Thanks Dave, Fred Thomas advised to back the wire out of the spark plug cap so there is about 1/2" of gap in the plug cap to allow for the spark to jump. I have them all the way in. In addition he said the wires are now silicone, not good. I think I will change the wires out and keep the bumble bee wire for shows. It appears that this is a common problem with TR3's. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: ambritts at bellsouth.net ; sumton at sbcglobal.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 7:04 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A Alex, I use bumble bees on my 60 as I like the "vintage look" however the connection between the plug cap and the wire is funky at best. I had an old set of wires from my 6 and pulled off the rubber end caps and put them on so the wire and the cap are more positively connected. Problem gone. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance. From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Apr 16 07:32:04 2008 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 06:32:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1949 2000 Roadster brake components Message-ID: <4805FFD4.80101@141.com> Morning List, I'm trying to find out what brand/make of brakes are in a 1949 2000 roadster. Before driving the car over to my wife's Aunt's house I would like to replace all the rubber bits in the brake system. Are there any over the counter sources here in the US? Thanks! Brad From bill_beecher at flash.net Wed Apr 16 10:13:20 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 10:13:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rear Brake line routing Message-ID: <003801c89fdc$d1c5ecd0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Good morning List, Does anyone have a good picture of the routing of the rear brake line across the rear axel housing? I seem to have missed that shot when disassembling and now trying to determine just how everything fits. Also, the fuel lines going back to the tank through the frame, I cannot seem to determine if it goes above or below the frame members after it passes through the grommets that are near the front outrigger body mounting. Thanks so much! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From peb3 at cornell.edu Wed Apr 16 11:06:30 2008 From: peb3 at cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 13:06:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] insurance question for PA residents Message-ID: I need to register and insure my TR6 in PA. I am familiar with insurance in NY, where I used to live, but there are apparently some subtle differences between the two states. I would appreciate a private note from owners in PA as to how their car is both insured and registered. TIA, -- Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) Keeneyville, PA '71 TR6 CC61193L (31 year owner) From triosan at gmail.com Wed Apr 16 12:15:40 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 11:15:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Valve Cover cap for Triumphtune valve cover Message-ID: <8cbd782d0804161115r1d02c1d5m6d294a30af5ee58d@mail.gmail.com> I have a nice old black Triumphtune valve cover with no cap. It seems to be a strange size -- bigger hole than standard cap, but same configuration with the lip on the outside. The diameter is about 2.4 inches with the maximum diameter of the inside is 2.25. Any help appreciated. -- Chuck Arnold From spamiam at comcast.net Wed Apr 16 14:15:03 2008 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 16:15:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A Message-ID: <001801c89ffe$8ec65010$6501a8c0@p4server> Alex, I had some similar problems. I did not use NGK plugs, but that is probably a good idea! I had a noticeable misfire. I checked everything. I had new wires (copper core), new cap, new plugs, new coil, new points, rotor, new condenser and it still did it. I changed the rotor again just to be sure. No good. I tuned the carbs really well. Not too lean, not too rich. Still a misfire I installed a Pertronix. No change, though the timing has less jitter back and forth when using a timing light. I adjusted the timing, and I found something there. Not with the timing, though. As I tightened the retaining clamp after I was done adjusting, I pushed a sparkplug wire sideways in the cap and got a BIG shock. The stock style caps with the ignition wire getting speared by a set screw is just a bad design. I got a cap for a 1970 MGB (uses modern push-in wires), and some magnecore wires (They do sell them for the TR2-4a), and THAT fixed it up. The car runs really really well. I would advise that you get the epush-in style cap and good ignition wires to fit it. Then DO fix the mixture. It is not true that "they all run rich". At least it should not be. I found that RL needles on the stock TR4A w/ HS6 carbs were just right. They are about 5% richer than the stock TW needles. The SM needles are richer than the RL. SM's would be too rich for my car, but maybe just right for one with a mild cam. -Tony From DLylis at aol.com Wed Apr 16 16:07:06 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 18:07:06 EDT Subject: [TR] Sputtering 59 TR3A Message-ID: Maybe I got an older set because mine are definitely copper. I have had them for about two years. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From DLylis at aol.com Wed Apr 16 16:08:50 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 18:08:50 EDT Subject: [TR] sticking calipers Message-ID: What are the symptoms? How are they sticking? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From jmitch at snet.net Wed Apr 16 16:27:03 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 18:27:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Steering arm rub Message-ID: <48067D37.909@snet.net> I've noticed a rubbing sound when I make a hard left turn into my garage. I had written it off to tire rub as I have 205-70/15 tires. It was louder tonight, so I crawled under with a flashlight and I could see that upper ball of the anti roll bar link is hitting the right steering arm where the tie rod end attaches. Before I take out the angle grinder, What do I have set up incorrectly and what do I need to do to fix it. Thanks for any help. John Mitchell 76 TR6 From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Wed Apr 16 17:10:23 2008 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 19:10:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition type coil FOLLOWUP Message-ID: <380-220084316231023750@earthlink.net> "Does anyone know why these are coils are electronic ignition type?" Secondary resistance, most likely. A Lucas Sport coil, for example, is a high-performance coil intended for conventional points-type ignition or cars that have had optical or Hall-effect triggers installed. The resistance across the secondary terminals is 2.9 Ohms, so the current flowing through the points or Pertronix will be about 4.5 Amps (13.5 volt system divided by 2.9 ohms of resistance.) Both the points and the Pertronix/Crane triggers can handle this. A coil intended for an electronic ignition, such as my MSD blaster coil, might have a resistance of 0.5 ohms. If you use it with points or Pertonix, you will get 27 amps of current, and you will quickly fry the points or trigger. That's when someone starts a thread about how Pertronix ignition units are crap... (I'm using the MSD coil with an MSD 6AL ignition module.) Cheers, Tom http://www.triumphowners.com/735 From ambritts at bellsouth.net Wed Apr 16 17:31:56 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 19:31:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update Message-ID: <0a3701c8a01a$0ff5a5d0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Well today did the following: 1. reset the spark plug gap to .032"/Bentley - forget that-ran worse. 10 mile run-plugs badly sooted. 2. Changed out the dizzy cap with new - no change. 3. Changed out the spark plug wires with new cap- no change. Not much left on the electrical side and on this side of the engine except: 1. timing 2. low tension lead 3. compression check Maybe tomorrow. Alex P.S. - Going out in the garage use to be mental health exercise. Starting to question that concept. From auprichard at comcast.net Wed Apr 16 17:31:29 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 19:31:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear Brake line routing In-Reply-To: <003801c89fdc$d1c5ecd0$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <003801c89fdc$d1c5ecd0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <000301c8a019$ff0fa0e0$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Rear brake lines in attached photos. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Beecher Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 12:13 PM To: 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: [TR] Rear Brake line routing Good morning List, Does anyone have a good picture of the routing of the rear brake line across the rear axel housing? I seem to have missed that shot when disassembling and now trying to determine just how everything fits. Also, the fuel lines going back to the tank through the frame, I cannot seem to determine if it goes above or below the frame members after it passes through the grommets that are near the front outrigger body mounting. Thanks so much! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Restored rear end 3.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Restored rear end 1.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Restored rear end 2.JPG] From ambritts at bellsouth.net Wed Apr 16 17:58:30 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 19:58:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update References: <0a3701c8a01a$0ff5a5d0$6401a8c0@STATION6> <001101c8a01b$34f56e00$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <0a4901c8a01d$c6f3a090$6401a8c0@STATION6> Thanks Darryl, but this is a left hand drive TR3. (only kidding) Before I bother him, I'll take care of the usual suspects, so when I speak to him I will have eliminated most of the upfront standard questions. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: "'Alex'" Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 7:40 PM Subject: RE: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update > Alex: > > I cannot help you, but my cousin can - for sure. His name is Darryl > Uprichard and he owns Racetorations in the UK (www.racetorations.co.uk). > The business is wholly dedicated to Triumphs and his speciality is the > TR3. > He is regarded as an expert and has helped me with my problems. > > If you can afford an international call, tell him I gave you his name. > > Darryl: 011 44 1427 616565 > > Andrew Uprichard > > 1962 TR3B > 1959 TR3A > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf > Of > Alex > Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 7:32 PM > To: Triumph List > Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update > > Well today did the following: > 1. reset the spark plug gap to .032"/Bentley - forget that-ran worse. 10 > mile > run-plugs badly sooted. > 2. Changed out the dizzy cap with new - no change. > 3. Changed out the spark plug wires with new cap- no change. > Not much left on the electrical side and on this side of the engine > except: > 1. timing > 2. low tension lead > 3. compression check > Maybe tomorrow. > Alex > P.S. - Going out in the garage use to be mental health exercise. Starting > to > question that concept. > _______________________________________________ From ambritts at bellsouth.net Wed Apr 16 18:06:35 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 20:06:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update References: <0a3701c8a01a$0ff5a5d0$6401a8c0@STATION6> <000801c8a01b$fa41da40$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <0a4e01c8a01e$e7002ab0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hi Jerry, All good things to look for. Yes, the carbs were recently rebuilt. Everything new. Does not mean everything is correct. However, the car ran well for the first 2000 miles. I did have some leaking issues with the seals that attach the bowels to the carb body. Before I attack the carbs, I want to make sure I eliminate all the electrical issues. I can however inspect them with the filters off. When I move to this side of the engine, that's where I will start. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Van Vlack" To: "Alex" Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 7:45 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update > Alex, > > Have you rebuilt the carbs or had them done recently? There are some kits > out there that have the wrong thickness washer in them and they cause the > jets to sit too low and cause a rich mixture. Look in the throat of the > carb and with the choke fully off the jets should be flush with the bottom > of the carb. If they are not you have a too thick washer in the jet > assembly which is lowering the jets and thus making the mixture too rich. > Sooty plugs are caused by a too rich mixture. Also are the float valves > fully closing or is fuel being allowed to weep by? Again too much fuel. > > Another item that can cause the jets to be too low is an improperly > adjusted chock cable holding the jets down. Weak return springs can also > cause this. Try manually pushing the jets up and again look in the carbs > to see if they are flush with the bottom of the carbs. > > I have fixed a local owners rich running TR2 due to these very reasons. > Yours may be different but I'd be looking at the jets position relative to > the carb body as a first step. A backassed way to fix this is to lower the > needles in an attempt to get them in the proper relationship with the jets > as they retract when accelerating. Doing that is a guessing game at best > but way to get the car to run a little better. > > Hope this helps. > > JVV > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Alex" > To: "Triumph List" > Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 7:31 PM > Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update > > >> Well today did the following: >> 1. reset the spark plug gap to .032"/Bentley - forget that-ran worse. 10 >> mile >> run-plugs badly sooted. >> 2. Changed out the dizzy cap with new - no change. >> 3. Changed out the spark plug wires with new cap- no change. >> Not much left on the electrical side and on this side of the engine >> except: >> 1. timing >> 2. low tension lead >> 3. compression check >> Maybe tomorrow. >> Alex >> P.S. - Going out in the garage use to be mental health exercise. Starting >> to >> question that concept. >> _______________________________________________ From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Wed Apr 16 18:33:41 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 20:33:41 EDT Subject: [TR] insurance question for PA residents Message-ID: I'm sharing this with the list as others might be interested. Go here: http://www.dmv.state.pa.us The details keep changing, but the general outline goes: For out of state cars coming into PA you must show ownership. This will be a title or, in some states , the last registration card. The serial number / VIN must be traced with a paper and pencil or verified by a garage with a state inspection license ( most garages) You must show proof of insurance if you are getting a license plate. Usually a current policy will cover a newly purchased car, not sre it would cover a owned car from another state. You must also show a current PA drivers license. Now would be a good time to get a antique plate. This requires pictures and a trip to a garage with someone that has a enhanced inspection license. ( this was recently done to curb abuse of reconstructed autos, antique plates on cars that really don't qualify) The antique plate is permanent, requires no annual safety inspection, but limits mileage to shows and occasional use. Harold ************** Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From ambritts at bellsouth.net Wed Apr 16 18:42:51 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 20:42:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update References: <041720080017.11364.4806972A000B26C100002C6422165579969C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0a6701c8a023$f814c770$6401a8c0@STATION6> I have put new and old rotors in. Had many problems with my TR6 with bad (new) rotors. I have a pertronix for it but its still in the box. :o( ----- Original Message ----- From: terryrs at comcast.net To: Alex Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 8:17 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update Oh, and one more thing. I had a problem with the 3 running like crap. changed everything, and finally wound up changing the rotor for a third time. Problem was, even the new rotors I'd gotten were crap. Thing didn't work right until I swapped out for a quarter century old rotor that came with the car that I'd kept as a spare. ...One of the reasons I switched to a Pertrinox. Terry -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Alex" > Well today did the following: > 1. reset the spark plug gap to .032"/Bentley - forget that-ran worse. 10 mile > run-plugs badly sooted. > 2. Changed out the dizzy cap with new - no change. > 3. Changed out the spark plug wires with new cap- no change. > Not much left on the electrical side and on this side of the engine except: > 1. timing > 2. low tension lead > 3. compression check > Maybe tomorrow. > Alex > P.S. - Going out in the garage use to be mental health exercise. Starting to > question that concept. > _______________________________________________ From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Apr 16 19:10:55 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 21:10:55 EDT Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update Message-ID: Most new rotors are defective today and will not last long for a couple of reasons. Did you change the rotor? How old is the coil? Mike Moore 59 TR3 **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From ambritts at bellsouth.net Wed Apr 16 19:23:24 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 21:23:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update References: Message-ID: <0a8801c8a029$a2fd1f20$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hi Mike, Switched out several rotors, and now have my old (Lucas) known to be good one in there. The coil is brand new. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: MMoore8425 at aol.com To: ambritts at bellsouth.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 9:10 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update Most new rotors are defective today and will not last long for a couple of reasons. Did you change the rotor? How old is the coil? Mike Moore 59 TR3 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. From DLylis at aol.com Wed Apr 16 20:04:20 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 22:04:20 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Steering arm rub Message-ID: IMHO put away the angle grinder. 205/70 gives no interference. This sounds like it is not set up right but can't tell from the description. Send a pic and I will send a pic and you can determine what is wrong. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From ambritts at bellsouth.net Wed Apr 16 21:42:27 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 23:42:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] sputtering TR3 References: <004501c8a03a$15bc7a00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <0acc01c8a03d$10b2c660$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hi Paul, Not sure. I am even not sure of the exact displacement. However, I do know that it has the 87mm pistons. The PO told me so. :o) Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: dorpaul To: ambritts at bellsouth.net Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 11:21 PM Subject: sputtering TR3 Alex, I forgot if you mentioned the displacement with your '59 TR3. But, I've heard from some reliable sources that if one increases to 2038 cc's that a change in models of distributor is also needed. Because of a different curve. Since I don't remember reading about this... I don't know if it's public knowledge. Do you beleve this? Thanks, Paul Dorsey I think the dizzy model required is 40795 From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Apr 17 06:03:17 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 08:03:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] sputtering TR3 References: <004501c8a03a$15bc7a00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <0acc01c8a03d$10b2c660$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <000001c8a083$13145a40$ed197247@fred8kwiskhcfu> If you have access to a "Lucas Spare Parts " cataloge they have a listing for all parts they make and for that size engine, anyway the answer is yes, when up the engines displacement and cc' size the factory had a different model # dist. installed, about 4 different dist listings just for T/R 3A & T/R 4.. "FT" ======================================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex" To: "dorpaul" Cc: "Triumph List" Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 11:42 PM Subject: Re: [TR] sputtering TR3 > Hi Paul, > Not sure. I am even not sure of the exact displacement. However, I do know > that it has the 87mm pistons. The PO told me so. :o) > Alex > ----- Original Message ----- > From: dorpaul > To: ambritts at bellsouth.net > Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 11:21 PM > Subject: sputtering TR3 > > > Alex, I forgot if you mentioned the displacement with your '59 TR3. But, > I've heard from some reliable sources that if one increases to 2038 cc's > that > a change in models of distributor is also needed. Because of a different > curve. > > Since I don't remember reading about this... I don't know if it's public > knowledge. Do you beleve this? > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > > I think the dizzy model required is 40795 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jgillis at tcd.ie Thu Apr 17 06:29:32 2008 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 13:29:32 +0100 Subject: [TR] stamp or engrave? Message-ID: <1208435372.480742ac49537@mymail.tcd.ie> Quick 1- commission plates on early TR's and probably all Triumphs, were the numbers/letters stamped or engraved, was thinking of bringing my new plate to engravers rather than buy a set of stamps I will never use again, but would it look odd? John TR2, it runs, it leaks but it still hasn't left the garage yet!! From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Thu Apr 17 06:54:41 2008 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 13:54:41 +0100 Subject: [TR] stamp or engrave? In-Reply-To: <1208435372.480742ac49537@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <20080417134416.6AB5A1878B8@autox.team.net> > Behalf Of John Gillis > > Quick 1- commission plates on early TR's and probably all Triumphs, were > the > numbers/letters stamped or engraved, John, Numbers were always stamped. Characters were 1/8" height until approx 1967, 3/16" thereafter. The company used at least three different typefaces in the 1/8" pattern. The prefix and main number was block stamped, with the final numeric character and any suffixes stamped separately. This means that most of the number will be well aligned with equal weight to the stamping, with much variation in the weight and position of the final number and suffixes, Cheers, Bill. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Apr 17 07:56:39 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 14:56:39 +0100 Subject: [TR] stamp or engrave? References: <20080417134416.6AB5A1878B8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <013901c8a092$dc917a10$0201a8c0@Bevan> Wouldn't disagree with any of that, Bill. Very succinctly put :::))) Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Davies" To: "'John Gillis'" ; "'Triumph List'" Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 1:54 PM Subject: Re: [TR] stamp or engrave? >> Behalf Of John Gillis >> >> Quick 1- commission plates on early TR's and probably all Triumphs, were >> the >> numbers/letters stamped or engraved, > > John, > Numbers were always stamped. Characters were 1/8" height until approx 1967, > 3/16" thereafter. The company used at least three different typefaces in the > 1/8" pattern. The prefix and main number was block stamped, with the final > numeric character and any suffixes stamped separately. This means that most > of the number will be well aligned with equal weight to the stamping, with > much variation in the weight and position of the final number and suffixes, > Cheers, > Bill. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From peter at nosimport.com Thu Apr 17 08:36:52 2008 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 09:36:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update In-Reply-To: <0a3701c8a01a$0ff5a5d0$6401a8c0@STATION6> References: <0a3701c8a01a$0ff5a5d0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080417093137.0380cee8@nosimport.com> Alex, I've lost the original thread on this, BUT If you have not changed out the fuel completely recently, that could be a/the problem. I, and others, have chased their tails looking for causes of similar symptoms to eventually discover that while the gas was only a few months old, it won't ignite! Sooty plugs are normally an indicator of either rich mixture or poor ignition, the soot being the telltale of unburned fuel. But modern fuels are so unstable that they won't burn and leave significant soot. If you have added a lot of new fuel, then look elsewhere as you are doing. I'm embarrassed to say how much time and effort I spent until I added fresh gas. Peter C. ============ At 06:31 PM 4/16/2008, Alex wrote: >Well today did the following: >1. reset the spark plug gap to .032"/Bentley - forget that-ran worse. 10 mile >run-plugs badly sooted. >2. Changed out the dizzy cap with new - no change. >3. Changed out the spark plug wires with new cap- no change. >Not much left on the electrical side and on this side of the engine except: >1. timing >2. low tension lead >3. compression check >Maybe tomorrow. >Alex >P.S. - Going out in the garage use to be mental health exercise. Starting to >question that concept. From ambritts at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 17 08:47:35 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 10:47:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update References: <0a3701c8a01a$0ff5a5d0$6401a8c0@STATION6> <7.0.1.0.2.20080417093137.0380cee8@nosimport.com> Message-ID: <000501c8a099$fad5dfa0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Good point Pete. However, I have put through several tank fulls of gas and additive (dry gas). In addition I used reg and high test with no appreciable difference. Zeroing though. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter C" To: "Alex" ; "Triumph List" Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 10:36 AM Subject: Re: [TR] 59 TR3A - Sputter Update > Alex, > I've lost the original thread on this, BUT If you have not > changed out the fuel completely recently, that could be a/the problem. I, > and others, have chased their tails looking for causes of similar symptoms > to eventually discover that while the gas was only a few months old, it > won't ignite! Sooty plugs are normally an indicator of either rich > mixture or poor ignition, the soot being the telltale of unburned fuel. > But modern fuels are so unstable that they won't burn and leave > significant soot. > If you have added a lot of new fuel, then look elsewhere as you > are doing. I'm embarrassed to say how much time and effort I spent until I > added fresh gas. > > Peter C. > ============ > At 06:31 PM 4/16/2008, Alex wrote: > >>Well today did the following: >>1. reset the spark plug gap to .032"/Bentley - forget that-ran worse. 10 >>mile >>run-plugs badly sooted. >>2. Changed out the dizzy cap with new - no change. >>3. Changed out the spark plug wires with new cap- no change. >>Not much left on the electrical side and on this side of the engine >>except: >>1. timing >>2. low tension lead >>3. compression check >>Maybe tomorrow. >>Alex >>P.S. - Going out in the garage use to be mental health exercise. Starting >>to >>question that concept. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 17 12:22:56 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 14:22:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] sputtering TR3 Message-ID: <005201c8a0b8$10188c50$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> yes your 87mm pistons is the larger displacement (2038cc). I have the model 40795, 1967 TR4 distributor on my 1960 TR3. Originally, it had 83mm pistons, yielding 1968?cc, but I was told by experts that the standard improvement was to boost it to 87mm. But that doing so required a TR4 distributor. Knowing little, I imformed my 'well-respected machine shop'. Being grown-up bikers, they bored my jugs to the new dimensions. I've yet to drive a Triumph- I am working on the wiring at the present. Thanks, Paul Dorsey -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Apr 17 13:56:06 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 15:56:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] sputtering TR3 In-Reply-To: <005201c8a0b8$10188c50$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <005201c8a0b8$10188c50$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8CA6EDC3519E76A-B00-710@webmail-da06.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: dorpaul yes your 87mm pistons is the larger displacement (2038cc). ==AM== FWIW, 83mm pistons = 1991cc. 86mm pistons = 2138cc. 87mm pistons = 2188 cc. (There was also the Vanguard 85mm piston = 2088cc; and 76mm pistons in the Standard Ensign = 1670cc!) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Apr 17 17:46:54 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 23:46:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] Interesting posting in New Hampshire Message-ID: <041720082346.20262.4807E16E0002143500004F2622165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Below is a posting on New Hampshire's Craigslist for anyone who might be interested. Does have an, I think, Vermont telephone number. NFI. Not interested myself. I love the TD's, but I love driving fast even more! Person responded to my inquiry as follows: I am going to let it go for 6500. It's worth about 26000 if fully restored. Norm 1950 MG TD Reply to: sale-639129387 at craigslist.org Date: 2008-04-11, 8:30PM EDT I have a 1950 MG TD that I brought from California Several Years ago. It has been stored inside but needs TLC. I am looking for someone that has the time to restore it. I have not sit a price but will negotiate. Everything is there but needs work. Phone Norm at 802-277-9801. From wdaehler at wi.rr.com Thu Apr 17 19:31:38 2008 From: wdaehler at wi.rr.com (Will Daehler) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 20:31:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Lever Arm Schock Issues Message-ID: <000001c8a0f3$f2e4ff10$6501a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> OK, when I put my car up on blocks for the winter the right hand side lever shock gurgled. Positively gurgled, like there was air in places where fluif should be. I've been looking at the prints, been studying, reading the manuals, took the wheel off,and I dove in. I just about got the shock off, I'm stumped at getting a getting the shock link off. The car frame is in the way. I try to slide the tip of the shock link bolt clear of the mounting hole of the plate, and there is not enough clearance. I tried jacking up the axle, hoping that the relationship of the leaf springs and the car frame would shift enough to develop some clearance. Nope. The solution is obvious, to disconnect the four bolts of the plate, I'm trying to avoid shipwright's disease. And I'm not really sure I really want to disconnect the axle on one side. The job has mushroomed out of control already. Any help offered? Will in Wisconsin 63 TR4 Powder Blue From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Thu Apr 17 19:47:20 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 21:47:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Off-topic request In-Reply-To: <003901c8a0eb$e31c98c0$39f45444@DCS78M81> References: <003901c8a0eb$e31c98c0$39f45444@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <0B2DF970-4744-44E3-ACB5-B213C043A0C7@mindspring.com> Hey Tom, The project went extremely well thanks to you and many other Triumph enthusiasts, and I can't think you enough. To date, Davis has received over 70 postcards from all over the U.S. and he's one very proud little man. Thanks again very, very much. Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 On Apr 17, 2008, at 8:33 PM, THOMAS FANSHER wrote: > How did the post card project go? > > > >>> >>> Please pardon the off-topic post/request, but my son needs some help >>> on a school project. My wife and I have spoken to our traditional >>> family, but they can be pretty lame and don't represent many >>> states. So, I thought I'd turn to my Triumph family. My son needs >>> postcards from any and all states for a class project. His name is >>> Davis Little so you should mail it to: >>> >>>> Davis Little >>>> c/o Mrs. Druckers Class >>>> Saint Martin's Episcopal School >>>> 3110-A Ashford Dunwoody Road >>>> Atlanta, GA 30319 From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 17 20:38:02 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 22:38:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] SS Classic Tubing order Message-ID: <006f01c8a0fd$39a2cdc0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I received the SS brake line and SS fuel line today from Classic Tube. It looks great in the spare bedroom. I've never installed working brakes, but, I think I'm up to the challenge. The 3 piece fuel line is 5/16 and without flared ends. It came with 3 female and 2 male fittings and olives, so maybe no flaring is required! I was under the impression that while 5/16" is used from tank to fuel pump, 1/4" tubing is used from f.p. to carbs. If that's so, then where do these two 5/16" get hooked togather? Strange as it may sound, I may have buggered-up the fuel tank's L drain. For this reason, I asked Classic Tubing to send me enough tubing for me to drain the tank from the R side (if necessary). I wonder if this is why the fuel line has three lines? or, maybe it's simply longer... does anyone know? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 17 20:42:21 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 22:42:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] fluif one way? Message-ID: <007601c8a0fd$d43c49b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Does all brake fluid in my TR3a's resevoir strictly flow out? A little doesn't come back from the brake or clutch m/c does it? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From cbhlouky at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 17 21:31:13 2008 From: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net (Craig) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 23:31:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] [triumphs] British Bash Message-ID: <006301c8a104$a7756950$0201a8c0@home9cmfx9peca> British Bash ----- Original Message ----- From: Adam Burckle To: Bash Group 1 Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 8:39 AM Subject: British Bash The 24th annual British Bash is coming June 6 & 7th! This plus the sunny weather, top down weather, driving weather is a big reason to get your car out and running... to sign up for Pre-Registration which ends in just 17 days! Pre-Registration BONUS ends soon! a.. Don't miss your chance to save up to 30% on your registration by entering now! b.. If you pre register you also receive a Dash Plaque, this is the ONLY way to get one! c.. No waiting in a registration line, drive in and enjoy the show, VIP service! d.. Register NOW online at www.BritishBash.com Featured Marque This years Featured Marque is Healey, featuring Austin Healey's, Jensen Healey's, Nash Healey and the Original Healey brand that started it all. Show within a Show: As a huge success the Bash last year featured it's first Show within a Show, with the gathering of the North American Spitfire Squadron. Due to the overwhelming success, this year the Jaguar Drivers Club Area 51 2008 Jaguar Concours will be held at this years Bash. So as an added bonus you get a show within a show! Don't sit on the side lines and let another year pass you by! Come support the British Bash, remember this benefits St. Joseph's Children's home and last year we raised over $4,000 for St. Joe's and the Children! Help us top it this year! For more info visit the website at www.BritishBash.com or contact Craig Holmes at: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net . . . . From timipurdy at citlink.net Thu Apr 17 21:55:12 2008 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 20:55:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 wheel bearings? Message-ID: <002801c8a108$01bdded0$01fea8c0@Lahontan> For awhile, a few months, I have been experiencing a obnoxious whirring sound, and am not sure where it originates. When the engine idles there is no noise.. Once accelerating, from first to second all is well. The sound , kind of high pitch I guess, makes its presence, though not too pronounce, shift to third and later to fourth, its extremely loud. It makes one thinks everything dry. The other evening jacked up the car, checked the rear axle, etc, all oil levels full. Since when I purchased the car in 2003, I have never examined the wheel bearings, my next project. Could this be the source of this noise, or is it something else? Another new territory for me. I am so thankful to have a forum like this. Tim Purdy From cbhlouky at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 17 22:01:41 2008 From: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 00:01:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] [triumphs] British Bash Message-ID: <00f901c8a108$e8f3ef10$0201a8c0@home9cmfx9peca> British BashLocated in Louisville, Kentucky! ----- Original Message ----- From: Craig To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 11:31 PM Subject: [triumphs] British Bash The 24th annual British Bash is coming June 6 & 7th! This plus the sunny weather, top down weather, driving weather is a big reason to get your car out and running... to sign up for Pre-Registration which ends in just 17 days! Pre-Registration BONUS ends soon! Don't miss your chance to save up to 30% on your registration by entering now! If you pre register you also receive a Dash Plaque, this is the ONLY way to get one! No waiting in a registration line, drive in and enjoy the show, VIP service! Register NOW online at www.BritishBash.com Featured Marque This years Featured Marque is Healey, featuring Austin Healey's, Jensen Healey's, Nash Healey and the Original Healey brand that started it all. Show within a Show: As a huge success the Bash last year featured it's first Show within a Show, with the gathering of the North American Spitfire Squadron. Due to the overwhelming success, this year the Jaguar Drivers Club Area 51 2008 Jaguar Concours will be held at this years Bash. So as an added bonus you get a show within a show! Don't sit on the side lines and let another year pass you by! Come support the British Bash, remember this benefits St. Joseph's Children's home and last year we raised over $4,000 for St. Joe's and the Children! Help us top it this year! For more info visit the website at www.BritishBash.com or contact Craig Holmes at: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net . . . . From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Apr 17 23:06:51 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 01:06:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interesting posting in New Hampshire In-Reply-To: <041720082346.20262.4807E16E0002143500004F2622165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4807F42B.19357.2A1A1BCD@localhost> On 17 Apr 2008 at 23:46, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > I am going to let it go for 6500. It's worth about 26000 if fully restored. Hah! I have lots of stuff that would be worth more if fully restored. Come to think of it, I'd be worth more too if I was fully restored. Terry, whatever happened to that 1948 Austin you posted about? That was made the year I was born. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From DLylis at aol.com Fri Apr 18 05:36:52 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 07:36:52 EDT Subject: [TR] fluif one way? Message-ID: It is free to flow both ways. If not your brakes will not retract from the discs/drums. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From DLylis at aol.com Fri Apr 18 05:52:12 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 07:52:12 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 wheel bearings? Message-ID: Tim, IIWY I would pay particular attention to whether the sound is absent at lower speeds, or just not as loud. If it is absent it is not likely to be related to wheel bearings. As I understand your post you seem to be saying that you don't hear it in 1,2 hear it in 3 and then loud in 4. I would check tranny fluid level right away, change if it has not been done during your watch. I say it points to tranny. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Apr 18 06:46:03 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 08:46:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 wheel bearings? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <48085FCB.10919.2BBE8307@localhost> On 18 Apr 2008 at 7:52, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > If it is absent it is not likely to be > related to wheel bearings. Also, wheel bearing noise often gets louder when you are turning away from that side so that it carries more load, and quieter when you turn toward that side so that its load is diminished. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Apr 18 08:20:00 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 14:20:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] SS Classic Tubing order Message-ID: <041820081420.16138.4808AE100007949A00003F0A22070032019D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net> When I got my tubing from Classic Tube I believe there were three lines. Two under the car and one from the pump to the carbs. I have a post 60,000 TR3A and the lines were for an earlier model -- actually they used Fred Thomas' old lines to make the pattern. The ones I got do come from the passenger side of the tank instead of the driver's side. They offered to take them back and if I'd send them my old ones, they would send me a new set at no additional charge.. mine were of copper and really not in good enough shape to copy, so I just rebend the SS ones and went from there. McMaster Carr has a really nice tubing bender I used. That's all the imput I have. Any questions, let me know. Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag - drove it to work today!! -------------- Original message -------------- From: "dorpaul" > I received the SS brake line and SS fuel line today from Classic Tube. It > looks great in the spare bedroom. I've never installed working brakes, but, I > think I'm up to the challenge. > > The 3 piece fuel line is 5/16 and without flared ends. It came with 3 female > and 2 male fittings and olives, so maybe no flaring is required! > I was under the impression that while 5/16" is used from tank to fuel pump, > 1/4" tubing is used from f.p. to carbs. If that's so, then where do these two > 5/16" get hooked togather? > > Strange as it may sound, I may have buggered-up the fuel tank's L drain. For > this reason, I asked Classic Tubing to send me enough tubing for me to drain > the tank from the R side (if necessary). I wonder if this is why the fuel > line has three lines? or, maybe it's simply longer... does anyone know? > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Apr 18 09:05:36 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 10:05:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 wheel bearings? References: <002801c8a108$01bdded0$01fea8c0@Lahontan> Message-ID: <004001c8a165$a98391c0$599af444@mikeslaptop> It could be your differential. Does the whine diminish when you take your foot off the gas? Does it diminish while you are cruising on the freeway? Is it more of a howl than a whine? Does the pitch change with vehicle speed, rather than engine speed? Does it seem to come from the rear of the car? If yes to all of these, I would suspect the differential, specifically the ring gear and pinion. Mike > For awhile, a few months, I have been experiencing a obnoxious whirring > sound, > and am not sure where it originates. When the engine idles there is no > noise.. Once accelerating, from first to second all is well. The sound , > kind > of high pitch I guess, makes its presence, though not too pronounce, shift > to > third and later to fourth, its extremely loud. It makes one thinks > everything > dry. The other evening jacked up the car, checked the rear axle, etc, all > oil > levels full. Since when I purchased the car in 2003, I have never > examined > the wheel bearings, my next project. Could this be the source of this > noise, > or is it something else? Another new territory for me. I am so thankful to > have a forum like this. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Apr 18 16:16:43 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 18:16:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] 'chaseing' threads Message-ID: <00bc01c8a1a1$e32860e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Should I 'chase' the 3/8"-24 threads using the appropriate tap in old wheel cylinders that will be reused. How about old 5-way valve, 'T' valve and brake calipers? What about new wheel cylinders? Why, then, when I retap 'new' gold colored fittings, do tiny shards of metal flakes result (along with a 'bright-silver' fittings) result? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3- All my new Classic Tubing stainless remains untouched in spare bedroom. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Apr 18 16:37:10 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 18:37:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] inlet/outlet clarification Message-ID: <00c301c8a1a4$be0116b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've asked this before: On my TR3's mounted m/c, does the port 'closest-to-the-driver' get to be the brake fluif's outlet. And the 'port-nearest-the-front-end' then, is the line from the resevoir? Thanks, Paul Dorsey -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Apr 18 19:15:31 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 21:15:31 EDT Subject: [TR] 'chaseing' threads Message-ID: Paul, I would take a male part, new, with the correct thread. I would lightly lubricate it and see if it threads in easily.If so, leave it alone! I would NOT tap anything stainless unless I really had to, and i would use anti-seize on the threads. If you get stainless to stainless parts galling and frozen up, it can be a real mess. If you do have to tape parts like brake cylinders, you will need to buy or make a bottom tap. Best, Mike Moore **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From 59tr3driver at gmail.com Fri Apr 18 19:45:26 2008 From: 59tr3driver at gmail.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 21:45:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] inlet/outlet clarification In-Reply-To: <00c301c8a1a4$be0116b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00c301c8a1a4$be0116b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <53B78C48DB1A41EBBC229325A7A82E04@Meislaptop> > On my TR3's mounted m/c, does the port > 'closest-to-the-driver' get to be the brake fluif's outlet. > And the 'port-nearest-the-front-end' then, is the line from > the resevoir? Nope, it's the other way around. The port farthest from the pushrod is the outlet to the brake/clutch system; while the port nearest the pushrod goes to the reservoir. Randall No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1386 - Release Date: 4/18/2008 5:24 PM From 59tr3driver at gmail.com Fri Apr 18 19:52:03 2008 From: 59tr3driver at gmail.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 21:52:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] 'chaseing' threads In-Reply-To: <00bc01c8a1a1$e32860e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00bc01c8a1a1$e32860e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: > Should I 'chase' the 3/8"-24 threads using the appropriate > tap in old wheel cylinders that will be reused. How about > old 5-way valve, 'T' valve and brake calipers? What about > new wheel cylinders? IMO, no. There are several reasons, but the most important is that these are safety-critical items. If the threads are damaged enough to require 'chasing', then they should be replaced with new. Otherwise, you risk finding out that the thread was critically weakened at the worst possible time. (IOW while trying to stop after that big truck pulled out in front of you.) It's also easy to damage the flare seat by running a tap into it. > Why, then, when I retap 'new' gold colored fittings, do tiny > shards of metal flakes result (along with a 'bright-silver' > fittings) result? Sounds to me like poor-quality fittings. I wouldn't use those, either. Randall No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1386 - Release Date: 4/18/2008 5:24 PM From timipurdy at citlink.net Fri Apr 18 20:01:51 2008 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 19:01:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 wheel bearings? References: <002801c8a108$01bdded0$01fea8c0@Lahontan> <004001c8a165$a98391c0$599af444@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <002001c8a1c1$578122a0$01fea8c0@Lahontan> Bingo! Though live about 90 miles from the nearest freeway. I took a friend on a short drive, and once at a steady speed 55 mph or so the sound dimmed. Now, I have never undertaken something like this. Parts availability does not look good either, or can get some from Moss, others not listed, would Napa Auto Parts have a suitable replacement.? Tim > It could be your differential. Does the whine diminish when you take your > foot off the gas? Does it diminish while you are cruising on the freeway? > Is it more of a howl than a whine? Does the pitch change with vehicle > speed, rather than engine speed? Does it seem to come from the rear of > the car? If yes to all of these, I would suspect the differential, > specifically the ring gear and pinion. > > Mike > > > >> For awhile, a few months, I have been experiencing a obnoxious whirring >> sound, >> and am not sure where it originates. When the engine idles there is no >> noise.. Once accelerating, from first to second all is well. The sound , >> kind >> of high pitch I guess, makes its presence, though not too pronounce, >> shift to >> third and later to fourth, its extremely loud. It makes one thinks >> everything >> dry. The other evening jacked up the car, checked the rear axle, etc, >> all oil >> levels full. Since when I purchased the car in 2003, I have never >> examined >> the wheel bearings, my next project. Could this be the source of this >> noise, >> or is it something else? Another new territory for me. I am so thankful >> to >> have a forum like this. From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Apr 18 20:15:02 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 21:15:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 wheel bearings? References: <002801c8a108$01bdded0$01fea8c0@Lahontan> <004001c8a165$a98391c0$599af444@mikeslaptop> <002001c8a1c1$578122a0$01fea8c0@Lahontan> Message-ID: <007301c8a1c3$2eb270c0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> This is not a repair that should be undertaken lightly. If you have never done this kind of work before, I would suggest that you do not attempt it yourself. BUT FIRST, get a second opinion on whether the diff is the problem. Try to find a competent mechanic and ask him or her to drive the car and get his or her opinion. My (very old) Moss catalog shows the ring gear and pinion as part no. 674-160 for the 3.7:1 ratio. I don't know what the availability is. The ring gear and pinion are replaced as a matched set. I doubt that NAPA would have one. Mike > Bingo! Though live about 90 miles from the nearest freeway. I took a > friend on a short drive, and once at a steady speed 55 mph or so the sound > dimmed. Now, I have never undertaken something like this. Parts > availability does not look good either, or can get some from Moss, others > not listed, would Napa Auto Parts have a suitable replacement.? From ambritts at bellsouth.net Fri Apr 18 20:16:39 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 22:16:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Sputtering Update Message-ID: <01c701c8a1c3$67d20190$6401a8c0@STATION6> Well the latest in the process of elimination. Ran a compression check today. #1 179 #2 182 #3 182 #4 175 Reset the timing, cleaned plugs, test drive. Ran like a champ. Right up through the gears into 4th overdrive, no sputter, 100 mph. (that's a first) Returned back home but decided to take another short spurt. Sputter back. Checked all the wires, and everything looked ok. So maybe now I'll switch to the other side of the engine. Exhausted most of this side. Side note-noticed some free play in the dizzy shaft. Will rotate back and forth about 1/4". Anyone know if this is normal? Alex Manzo 59 TR3 (with a nasty sputter) PS BTW, have received several emails off list with the exact same problem. So there are a few of us following your responses. From emanteno at comcast.net Fri Apr 18 21:19:29 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 03:19:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Sputtering Update Message-ID: <041920080319.5338.480964C10008CDAB000014DA2200734748970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Alex" > Reset the timing, cleaned plugs, test drive. Ran like a champ. Right up > through the gears into 4th overdrive, no sputter, 100 mph. (that's a first) > Returned back home but decided to take another short spurt. Sputter back. A failing coil will cause a misfire as it gets hot. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From CarlSereda at aol.com Fri Apr 18 21:37:08 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 23:37:08 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 shocks Message-ID: Will, Why not just try topping off the shock insitu before taking things apart.. Also check the rubber in the link - if it's loose and/or mangled, might be helpful to cut the link to aid removing things. Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since ' 74 ---------- when I put my car up on blocks for the winter the right hand side lever shock gurgled. Positively gurgled, like there was air in places where fluif should be. I've been looking at the prints, been studying, reading the manuals, took the wheel off,and I dove in. Any help offered? Will in Wisconsin 63 TR4 Powder Blue ************** Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Apr 18 21:55:46 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 23:55:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] inlet/outlet clarification References: <00c301c8a1a4$be0116b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <001e01c8a1af$d11e6d00$39f45444@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <00ea01c8a1d1$401c9170$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> The fluid from the "r"esevoir goes to the "r"ear-most port. Thus "R" goes to "R"... I should remember this! Right? Thanks, Paul -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From wbeech at flash.net Fri Apr 18 22:12:25 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 22:12:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Sputtering Update In-Reply-To: <01c701c8a1c3$67d20190$6401a8c0@STATION6> References: <01c701c8a1c3$67d20190$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <001501c8a1d3$93d09170$6401a8c0@sniffer> Yes, dizzy shaft is suppose to move. Those are the weights, on springs, that affect the timing advance as engine speed increases. QUES: After your 100mph rocket-run, did you pull the plugs and look at them? What color? Should be a nice cocoa-chocolate brown. If still black or real dark, have you tried a hotter plug? Do you have a heat-shield? Have you sync'd your carb recently? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 8:17 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] TR3A Sputtering Update Well the latest in the process of elimination. Ran a compression check today. #1 179 #2 182 #3 182 #4 175 Reset the timing, cleaned plugs, test drive. Ran like a champ. Right up through the gears into 4th overdrive, no sputter, 100 mph. (that's a first) Returned back home but decided to take another short spurt. Sputter back. Checked all the wires, and everything looked ok. So maybe now I'll switch to the other side of the engine. Exhausted most of this side. Side note-noticed some free play in the dizzy shaft. Will rotate back and forth about 1/4". Anyone know if this is normal? Alex Manzo 59 TR3 (with a nasty sputter) PS BTW, have received several emails off list with the exact same problem. So there are a few of us following your responses. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sat Apr 19 02:53:12 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 04:53:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Sputtering Update References: <041920080319.5338.480964C10008CDAB000014DA2200734748970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <01d601c8a1fa$cd7ce730$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hi Irv, New coil and all new ignition items. Everything, Thanks, Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: emanteno at comcast.net To: Alex ; Triumph List Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 11:19 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Sputtering Update -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Alex" > Reset the timing, cleaned plugs, test drive. Ran like a champ. Right up > through the gears into 4th overdrive, no sputter, 100 mph. (that's a first) > Returned back home but decided to take another short spurt. Sputter back. A failing coil will cause a misfire as it gets hot. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Apr 19 06:14:40 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 12:14:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] Winter Officially Over Message-ID: <041920081214.29743.4809E230000AFA520000742F22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> I don't normally report on things this mundane, but the snow has at last cleared from the front of the TR3A's storage site. I've pushed the car out into the sunshine and get to spend today outside...that is, the WARM outside...to change the oil, change over to the newfangled silentblocs, grease everything, install the new alternator bracket I fabricated and painted last night, and finish with a nice thorough wash and wax. The latter would be the car, not me. Then...ahem...wait for mud season to subside enough to get it out the driveway. Cannot wait to start killing black flies with my windshield! Terry Smith, TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Apr 19 08:01:41 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 10:01:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] inlet/outlet clarification In-Reply-To: <53B78C48DB1A41EBBC229325A7A82E04@Meislaptop> References: <00c301c8a1a4$be0116b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <53B78C48DB1A41EBBC229325A7A82E04@Meislaptop> Message-ID: > > On my TR3's mounted m/c, does the port > > 'closest-to-the-driver' get to be the brake fluif's outlet. > > And the 'port-nearest-the-front-end' then, is the line from > > the resevoir?> > Nope, it's the other way around. The port farthest from the pushrod is the> outlet to the brake/clutch system; while the port nearest the pushrod goes> to the reservoir.> > Randall Man, am I glad you're back, Randall! John H. From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sat Apr 19 12:04:37 2008 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 20:04:37 +0200 Subject: [TR] 'chaseing' threads References: <00bc01c8a1a1$e32860e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <002f01c8a247$d504f9f0$0500a8c0@Study> Don't chase any threads unless they won't screw on without great difficulty. If you_ must_ chase stainless try and get a few drops of cutting oil. Quite important with stainless.Probably available from your local machine shop. Also only use a plug tap, I think that used to be known also in UK as a 3rd tap and I guess that's what Mike Moore refers to as a "bottom tap." But try to avoid using any taps there's a great danger of cutting another thread or buggering the existing one, which will render the whole brake line unsafe. David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 8417 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From 59tr3driver at gmail.com Sat Apr 19 13:43:52 2008 From: 59tr3driver at gmail.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 15:43:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] inlet/outlet clarification In-Reply-To: References: <00c301c8a1a4$be0116b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <53B78C48DB1A41EBBC229325A7A82E04@Meislaptop> Message-ID: > Man, am I glad you're back, Randall! Well, not really ... first of all I answered Paul's question wrong, since on a TR3 the outlet is nearest the driver. Second, I'm going back on the road again tomorrow, just managed to get email setup temporarily. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Apr 19 18:18:32 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 18:18:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering box bearings Message-ID: <000301c8a27c$128f6150$6401a8c0@sniffer> Pulled the end off the steering box today to check and adjust the end-float and noticed that the outside bearing race was missing four(4) balls. Hmmm.... it drove pretty good last summer. Before I shell out $80.to Moss for a new one, does anyone know if this item is commonly available elsewhere at a reasonable cost? I mic'd the balls and they are exactly 1/4". Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From wbeech at flash.net Sat Apr 19 18:23:51 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 18:23:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering box bearings Message-ID: <000801c8a27c$d02d6720$6401a8c0@sniffer> And, can someone explain the difference between "End Float" and "Pre-Load". I assume end-float to mean the amount of play at the end of the steering shaft. Thx, B _____ From: wbeech [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 6:19 PM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: TR3 Steering box bearings Pulled the end off the steering box today to check and adjust the end-float and noticed that the outside bearing race was missing four(4) balls. Hmmm.... it drove pretty good last summer. Before I shell out $80.to Moss for a new one, does anyone know if this item is commonly available elsewhere at a reasonable cost? I mic'd the balls and they are exactly 1/4". Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sat Apr 19 19:36:20 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 21:36:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Sputtering Update References: <041920080319.5338.480964C10008CDAB000014DA2200734748970A9D010507@comcast.net> <01d601c8a1fa$cd7ce730$6401a8c0@STATION6> <4809B4AB.1090004@dfn.com> Message-ID: <023101c8a286$effecdf0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Nope, but its now on the list. :o) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Porter" To: "Alex" Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 5:00 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Sputtering Update > Alex wrote: >> Hi Irv, >> New coil and all new ignition items. Everything, >> > > > Checked for vacuum leaks yet? Especially when hot? > > > Cheers. > > -- > > > Michael Porter > Roswell, NM > > > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking > distance.... From 59tr3driver at gmail.com Sat Apr 19 19:58:18 2008 From: 59tr3driver at gmail.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 21:58:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering box bearings In-Reply-To: <000801c8a27c$d02d6720$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <000801c8a27c$d02d6720$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <9E14C166FE7E4C7085AB1C005126E4FD@Meislaptop> > And, can someone explain the difference between "End Float" > and "Pre-Load". > I assume end-float to mean the amount of play at the end of > the steering shaft. Basically, pre-load is the opposite of end float. End float means there is some play in the bearings (measured along the axis of the shaft), while preload means less than zero play (meaning there is some load on the bearing even when it's not carrying any external load, hence "pre"-load). The goal for the steering box is to set the play to exactly zero; but as the book notes, a small amount of pre-load is preferable to any play whatsoever. Don't recall offhand how clear the book procedure is, but what I did was to add shims until I could just measure some end-float (with a dial indicator), then remove shims equal to what I measured. Note that the screw adjustment on the top should be backed off during this measurement, otherwise it may cause a false reading. Sorry, no help on alternate sources for the bearing. But if the cage is in good shape, I would feel comfortable replacing all of the balls (not just some of them) with new, commercially available balls (eg McMaster-Carr). Randall From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sat Apr 19 20:25:18 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 22:25:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Excellent site -sputter update Message-ID: <025e01c8a28d$c77ac760$6401a8c0@STATION6> Thought everyone might find this site helpful. Excellent testing techniques for ignition issues, cooling etc, for British cars. Take it to the next level in very simple terms. Hope you find it helpful. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A running better but not there yet. http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/index.htm From thomas309 at aol.com Sun Apr 20 01:03:39 2008 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 03:03:39 EDT Subject: [TR] 1974 Jensen-Healey Convertible NFI Message-ID: Saw this on CT craigslist. NFI _RARE 1974 Jensen-Healey Convertible VG condition_ (http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/648838867.html) **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From thomas309 at aol.com Sun Apr 20 01:06:56 2008 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 03:06:56 EDT Subject: [TR] 1965 Triumph TR4A-IRS - NFI Message-ID: CT craigslist...NFI. _1965 Triumph TR4A-IRS with 42,889 original_ (http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/648418543.html) **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From drsandner at embarqmail.com Sun Apr 20 07:21:21 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 09:21:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] click adjust Message-ID: <75EC8B32C44C45578392A170B1E3A5CA@randyPC> morning all, there was an article/reference to a new tool called ' click adjust' (i think), used to adjust valve clearance. ideas to info about the tool, anyone used one, rants or raves. TIA randy sandner From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 20 07:25:08 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 06:25:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] click adjust In-Reply-To: <75EC8B32C44C45578392A170B1E3A5CA@randyPC> Message-ID: <413893.3826.qm@web82803.mail.mud.yahoo.com> its not a new tool; i've had one for 5? years. its helpful in adjusting valves; one tool that has both the screwdriver and socket. its not "the greatest thing since sliced bread" but its a nice tool to have. j randolph sandner wrote: morning all, there was an article/reference to a new tool called ' click adjust' (i think), used to adjust valve clearance. ideas to info about the tool, anyone used one, rants or raves. TIA randy sandner From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 20 07:25:13 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 06:25:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] click adjust In-Reply-To: <75EC8B32C44C45578392A170B1E3A5CA@randyPC> Message-ID: <868489.2485.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com> its not a new tool; i've had one for 5? years. its helpful in adjusting valves; one tool that has both the screwdriver and socket. its not "the greatest thing since sliced bread" but its a nice tool to have. j randolph sandner wrote: morning all, there was an article/reference to a new tool called ' click adjust' (i think), used to adjust valve clearance. ideas to info about the tool, anyone used one, rants or raves. TIA randy sandner From eoot at citlink.net Sun Apr 20 08:04:21 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 10:04:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering wheel shimmy Message-ID: <004e01c8a2ef$6ec4e4e0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Morning all, Looking for a diagnostic list to determine the cause of a steering wheel shimmy. It occurs at around 40 and I believe diminishes a bit above 60. I only feel/see it in the wheel. I do not feel it in "seat of the pants" or rest of the car. I have rotated tires, front to back, which had no effect. I did replace front wheel bearings this spring. With the car jacked and hands on wheel at 6 and 12 there is no movement. The toe in does seem off a bit. TIA Ed From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Apr 20 08:23:11 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 14:23:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering wheel shimmy In-Reply-To: <004e01c8a2ef$6ec4e4e0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> References: <004e01c8a2ef$6ec4e4e0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: This is what I just eliminated in my 1960 TR3A. I took it to the root of the problem. In my case that was run out in the wheels. Here is the list: 1. Check run out on front all wheels with a dial indicator. 2. Remove front hubs and have the mounting surface trued at a machine shop. 2.5 Inspect bolt holes and mounting surface of wheels and remove any burrs, rust, or foreign matter. 3. Recheck front wheel run out marking the wheel with the amount at every change in needle direction. 4. Using a pneumatic sander grind the mounting surface of the wheel at the high points of run out marked on the rim. Do not get too aggressive with the grinding. 5. Recheck run out again. 6. Repeat grinding and rechecks of run out until an acceptable amount of run out is reached. 7. Repeat the above processes on the rear wheels. 8. Acceptable run out for me was 0.025. My car now steers like a Cadillac. Best regards, Tom > From: eoot at citlink.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 10:04:21 -0400 > Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering wheel shimmy > > Morning all, > > Looking for a diagnostic list to determine the cause of a steering wheel > shimmy. It occurs at around 40 and I believe diminishes a bit above 60. I only > feel/see it in the wheel. I do not feel it in "seat of the pants" or rest of > the car. I have rotated tires, front to back, which had no effect. I did > replace front wheel bearings this spring. With the car jacked and hands on > wheel at 6 and 12 there is no movement. The toe in does seem off a bit. > > TIA > Ed > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_ Refresh_messenger_video_042008 From npaul72464 at aol.com Sun Apr 20 09:07:50 2008 From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 11:07:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] click adjust In-Reply-To: <75EC8B32C44C45578392A170B1E3A5CA@randyPC> References: <75EC8B32C44C45578392A170B1E3A5CA@randyPC> Message-ID: <8CA710F6F2DB99F-144-333@MBLK-M23.sysops.aol.com> I have one and always use it when I adjust the valves.? Still need to verify that the measurement is right with a feeler gauge, especially after tightening.? I found it to be most accurate when I count the clicks to get it spot on after tightening rather than before. Ned Paulsen 1958 TR3 1960 Healey BN7 -----Original Message----- From: j randolph sandner To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: tr6 Sent: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 9:21 am Subject: [TR] click adjust morning all, there was an article/reference to a new tool called ' click adjust' (i think), used to adjust valve clearance. ideas to info about the tool, anyone used one, rants or raves. TIA randy sandner This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as npaul72464 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Apr 20 09:36:52 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 11:36:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering box bearings In-Reply-To: <000301c8a27c$128f6150$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <000301c8a27c$128f6150$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <000001c8a2fc$5bbdc1c0$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> A couple of you (Bill B. and Paul D.) had asked about routing the gas line for a TR3. Here are three pictures I took earlier today. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 8:19 PM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering box bearings Pulled the end off the steering box today to check and adjust the end-float and noticed that the outside bearing race was missing four(4) balls. Hmmm.... it drove pretty good last summer. Before I shell out $80.to Moss for a new one, does anyone know if this item is commonly available elsewhere at a reasonable cost? I mic'd the balls and they are exactly 1/4". Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Picture 001.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Picture 003.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Picture 002.jpg] From drsandner at embarqmail.com Sun Apr 20 11:12:44 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 13:12:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] click adjust Message-ID: <6DE6CABCEB7C495A8BF4F071A93566CA@randyPC> list probably should have also asked: where can i get one, aprox cost? thanks randy sandner From drsandner at embarqmail.com Sun Apr 20 12:17:33 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 14:17:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZS 175 Message-ID: <6C5723019E0B46EB9B875882847548CB@randyPC> afternoon to all, my carb bowl is leaking at the plug on the bottom. i have the new o-ring. is it possible to gently pry out the plug w/o breaking off the fingers, renewing the o-ring , and push the plug back in? Or do i have to remove bowl, and 'close the fingers' from inside? thanks randy sandner 74.5 tr6 hickory nc From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Apr 20 14:25:18 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 20:25:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers Message-ID: <042020082025.3932.480BA6AE000BA97200000F5C22155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Does anyone know of a source for ball joint boots that don't rot and drop off in just two years? Gotta be something better out there. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire From wbeech at flash.net Sun Apr 20 14:35:36 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 14:35:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers In-Reply-To: <042020082025.3932.480BA6AE000BA97200000F5C22155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <042020082025.3932.480BA6AE000BA97200000F5C22155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001701c8a326$1ca46640$6401a8c0@sniffer> Terry, If you get an off-line response, let me know. Just put on my new Delrin Silentblocs yesterday and was thinking the same thing. Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 2:25 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers Does anyone know of a source for ball joint boots that don't rot and drop off in just two years? Gotta be something better out there. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Apr 20 14:37:47 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:37:47 EDT Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers Message-ID: In a message dated 4/20/2008 1:36:30 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: Terry, If you get an off-line response, let me know. Just put on my new Delrin Silentblocs yesterday and was thinking the same thing. Thx, Me too Terry! I think I went to a Toyota dealer and got some which fit well, Mike Moore **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 20 14:52:08 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:52:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] reservoir to rear of mounted m/c? Message-ID: <016001c8a328$668942b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I need clarification! After looking at a picture of an original setup, I made a simple statement (and I need to know if it is indeed correct...) The simple statement to remember is: The line from the reservoir goes to the rear-most port (on either mounted M/C.) Is this correct for the M/C? Thanks, Paul -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 20 15:16:17 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 17:16:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] "S" thread size needed Message-ID: <016e01c8a32b$c639d820$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> What is the size thread (and the name/initials of the thread) at the ends of the short "S" shaped lines that run between the M/C and Brake Fluid Reservoir? They actually maybe the same size, but male at m/c and female at reservoir ends? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Apr 20 15:33:55 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:33:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Message-ID: <200804201733.55749.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hello, Weil it was a nice weekend here in upstate NY so changed the oil, filter, checked frontend alignment and a bunch of other stuff and took it out for a ride. Well it ran just wonderful. And a windy day felt good with the wind in the face. Just installed my new (well new to me) Lodge spark plug ends to match the set I have on the 3. I sure like the looks of those plug ends and they fit real tight. I was lucky to find a set on ebay a few weeks ago. Still had the original wire with a Brit patent etc. Suppressor wires. No problems to speak of except the new walnut shift knob came loose from its metal nut. Had to remove it and get out the pb weld. Tried plumbers goop but would not hold tight enough. My fuel pump modification I installed earlier this winter is working just fine. I mounted the pump at the tank (just under), and installed the regulator on a plate which is fastened to the fuel pump plug made by Mr. Curry If I remember correctly. Pressure is 2 psi. spot on. ALso I might add that it is a bit easier to change the oil filter without the AC fuel pump in the way! It sure is nice to have a real spring for a change here in the north east! Bob From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 20 15:54:44 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 17:54:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] SS brake line fittings? Message-ID: <017c01c8a331$25875410$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I forgot to ask this simple question: Are the fittings on my new brake lines also stainless? I ordered SS brake lines from Classic Tube, but I don't know about the fittings? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Apr 20 16:06:23 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:06:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] SS brake line fittings? In-Reply-To: <017c01c8a331$25875410$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <017c01c8a331$25875410$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <480BBE5F.1080900@tscusa.org> Paul. IIRC, yes, they are SS also. dorpaul wrote: > I forgot to ask this simple question: > > Are the fittings on my new brake lines also stainless? I ordered SS brake > lines from Classic Tube, but I don't know about the fittings? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3A > > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 20 16:25:31 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 18:25:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZS 175 In-Reply-To: <6C5723019E0B46EB9B875882847548CB@randyPC> References: <6C5723019E0B46EB9B875882847548CB@randyPC> Message-ID: <000401c8a335$746242d0$210110ac@bobspc> Randy, I don't recall seeing any fingers on the plug on my ZS carbs.......or are you talking about all the little metal prongs that go around the plug? The last time I drained the bowl I just pried them out and then pressed them back in. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of j randolph sandner Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 2:18 PM To: 6pack Cc: tr6 Subject: [TR] ZS 175 afternoon to all, my carb bowl is leaking at the plug on the bottom. i have the new o-ring. is it possible to gently pry out the plug w/o breaking off the fingers, renewing the o-ring , and push the plug back in? Or do i have to remove bowl, and 'close the fingers' from inside? thanks randy sandner 74.5 tr6 hickory nc This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1387 - Release Date: 4/19/2008 11:31 AM From 59tr3driver at gmail.com Sun Apr 20 16:26:21 2008 From: 59tr3driver at gmail.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 18:26:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] reservoir to rear of mounted m/c? In-Reply-To: <016001c8a328$668942b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <016001c8a328$668942b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: > I need clarification! > > After looking at a picture of an original setup, I made a > simple statement (and I need to know if it is indeed correct...) > > The simple statement to remember is: > The line from the reservoir goes to the rear-most port (on > either mounted M/C.) > > Is this correct for the M/C? Yes, it's correct. My apologies for confusing the subject before, Paul, forgot which way the MC gets mounted. Randall From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Apr 20 16:55:58 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 18:55:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Brew Swap Message-ID: I brought this subject up back in December and there seemed to be some interest so I will toss it out to the masses for real now. I picture having an informal low keyed Brew Swap at VTR 2008. Those of us who home brew could bring some of our elixirs and if those that dont home brew have a special favorite beer from a local microbrewery in their part of the country they could bring some of those. If it wouldnt impose on the host groups plans maybe we could migrate together during the welcoming get together on Tuesday evening. Maybe bring some small plastic sampling glasses and we could test out each others brews and swap bottles if we like them. Might be a great way to take home a special souvenir from the event to drink during the cold winter months and think back on the good time we had. We are staying at the Blairsville comfort inn for the TRF Summer Party, We could test it out in the parking lot there if there is anybody else staying there. What do you think? Marty Sukey _________________________________________________________________ Going green? See the top 12 foods to eat organic. http://green.msn.com/galleries/photos/photos.aspx?gid=164&ocid=T003MSN51N1653 A From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Apr 20 17:19:25 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 19:19:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 In-Reply-To: <200804201733.55749.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <480B973D.19013.5B61258@localhost> On 20 Apr 2008 at 16:33, Bob Labuz wrote: > Weil it was a nice weekend here in upstate NY so... [we] > took it out for a ride. > > Well it ran just wonderful. And a windy day felt good with the wind in the > face. It was a nice day in eastern Massachusetts too. We took the GT6 out to Falmouth on Cape Code, and it too ran wonderful. Except we didn't get any wind in the face unless we rolled down the windows. On the other hand, the Red Sox won again. > It sure is nice to have a real spring for a change here in the > north east! Amen to that, brother. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From fishplate at charter.net Sun Apr 20 18:46:42 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 20:46:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZS 175 In-Reply-To: <6C5723019E0B46EB9B875882847548CB@randyPC> References: <6C5723019E0B46EB9B875882847548CB@randyPC> Message-ID: <20080421004623.MPMB3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 02:17 PM 4/20/2008, j randolph sandner wrote: >my carb bowl is leaking at the plug on the bottom. >i have the new o-ring. >is it possible to gently pry out the plug w/o breaking off the fingers, >renewing the o-ring , and push the plug back in? >Or do i have to remove bowl, and 'close the fingers' from inside? You might be able to use pliers to gently pull it out, but the old plug is probably fragile...you might be able to remove the bowl screws and then change the o-ring on the bench. If it were me, I'd remove the carb and take the opportunity to inspect the float valves, and check and set the floats. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1387 - Release Date: 4/19/2008 11:31 AM From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Apr 20 18:46:33 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 18:46:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph Brew Swap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <480BE3E9.70809@tscusa.org> marty sukey wrote: > I brought this subject up back in December and there seemed > to be some > interest so I will toss it out to the masses for real now. ... What do you think? > Marty Sukey > > Great reminder Marty. Almost makes me want to drive 1500 miles across the frying pan hot summer Midwest just for the Brew Swap! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Apr 20 19:29:45 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 19:29:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] STTAG Restoration Team pulls the FULL MONTY! Message-ID: <480BEE09.6050806@tscusa.org> Hi All, As I await current status from the STTAG Restoration Team, last weekend 12th & 13th April 2008, the STTAG teams did the FULL MONTY! Yes, the chassis is now fully stripped down, Completely naked of all components, all undercoating is removed and the paint is being peeled just like so many dirty clothes down to the bare skin. Also, we have the 4 Speed J OD conversion parts in the freight to the Hampshire Quarter Horse and Triumph Farm, along with a set of Super Flex bushings and professionally rebuilt starter. Next, sourcing the remaining new parts to keep this restoration rolling ahead of schedule! There is a brief update on the TTA web site http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ Visit now and even sign up to receive notices as the site changes with new information - http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/mailman/listinfo/triumphtrans-americainfo_triumphtransamerica.org.uk Even live RSS Feeds! http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/?feed=rss2 -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA 2009 Charity Drive Coordination Team The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From odd at triumphclub.se Mon Apr 21 00:39:55 2008 From: odd at triumphclub.se (Odd Hedberg) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 08:39:55 +0200 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 195 - Clikadjust In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000a01c8a37a$839b26a0$c00aa8c0@DATOR01> Randy, you'll find them here: Frosts... Haven't seen them elsewere for years, not even in Gunsons own pages. /Odd http://tinyurl.com/4svu6t or longer original: http: //www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8086&frostProductName=Clikad just Tappet Adjuster&catID=&frostCat=&frostSubCat=&subCatID= Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 13:12:44 -0400 > From: "j randolph sandner" > Subject: [TR] click adjust > > list > probably should have also asked: > where can i get one, aprox cost? > thanks > randy sandner From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Apr 21 06:47:39 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 08:47:39 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph Brew Swap Message-ID: In a message dated 4/20/2008 5:56:23 PM Central Daylight Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: > I brought this subject up back in December and there seemed > to be some interest so I will toss it out to the masses for real now. I > picture having > an informal low keyed Brew Swap at VTR 2008. Those of us who home > brew could bring some of our elixirs and if those that dont home brew have > a > special favorite beer from a local microbrewery in their part of the country > they could bring some of those. If it wouldn't impose on the host groups > plans maybe we could migrate together during the welcoming get together on > Tuesday evening. Maybe bring some small plastic sampling glasses and we > could > test out each others brews and swap bottles if we like them. Might be a > great > way to take home a special souvenir from the event to drink during the cold > winter months and think back on the good time we had. We are staying at the > Blairsville comfort inn for the TRF Summer Party, We could test it out in > the > parking lot there if there is anybody else staying there. What do you > think? I dunno, Marty. Maybe we should wait until after the autocross. Driving the pylons after going blind drinking your moonshine might be a little too exciting for me. ;-) Seriously, I think that's a great idea. I just sampled my first attempt and I found it "drinkable." I'll start another batch in June so I should be optimum by the time the VTR rolls around. Alas, I cannot attend Summer Party this year. Let us know how it goes. Dave Massey From red_tr250 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 07:04:27 2008 From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 09:04:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000 trailing arms bent? Message-ID: Anyone ever seen a trailing arm bent? I have a '68 Triumph 2000 and while replacing the trailing arm bushes(TR6 urethane bushes), we discovered the outside pivot point on the trailing arm was noticeably bent inward toward the other pivot point. I've NEVER seen this type of thing happen? We figured it would've cracked or broken before bending. Perhaps it was cast that way? We used a threaded rod from one pivot point to the other in order to draw the bushes out. On the passenger side, the rod went thru the bushing tubes just fine, but on the driver side it had to be driven thru. I suppose while tightening the nuts on the threaded rod, we could've bent it...more than it was cus it was bent already. We're guessing it was cast that way though. Also while pulling the outer-most bracket (behind the 4 shims) was a large hole just next to the spacer tubes. Probably going to need a trailing arm section...if anyone out there has one?? Well, that and a trailing arm that's NOT BENT :) Cheers, Todd Bermudez Cincinnati, OH _________________________________________________________________ Get in touch in an instant. Get Windows Live Messenger now. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ getintouch_042008 From twakeman at razzolink.com Mon Apr 21 07:37:55 2008 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 06:37:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 195 - Clikadjust In-Reply-To: <000a01c8a37a$839b26a0$c00aa8c0@DATOR01> References: <000a01c8a37a$839b26a0$c00aa8c0@DATOR01> Message-ID: <480C98B3.8080100@razzolink.com> Odd Hedberg wrote: > Randy, > you'll find them here: > Frosts... Haven't seen them elsewere for years, not even in > Gunsons own pages. > /Odd > I hope they usually work better than mine did. I never got reliably repeatable results and went back to tried & true screwdriver, wrench & feeler gauge. Mine hit the trash can after sitting on a shelf for a few years after I decided I didn't like its lack of repeatable inaccuracy. Teriann From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Apr 21 07:44:52 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:44:52 +0100 Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000 trailing arms bent? References: Message-ID: <035201c8a3b5$e3ed0ab0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Todd If you're unable to locate a replacement arm, we've got hundreds of them lying around in the UK:) I had four once upon a time! Your best port of call is one Chris Witor. Looks like the part you need is part # 138112 or 138113- according to side if your car's a Mk1 and not one of the Mk II's (different #) that have snuck in over the years. Chris has an on-line .pdf catalogue and price list and it looks as though one of these arms (used but he will have checked it) will cost you about US$30.00 plus freight. His URL is www.chriswitor.com NFI etc Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Bermudez" To: Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 2:04 PM Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000 trailing arms bent? > Anyone ever seen a trailing arm bent? I have a '68 Triumph 2000 and while > replacing the trailing arm bushes(TR6 urethane bushes), we discovered the > outside pivot point on the trailing arm was noticeably bent inward toward the > other pivot point. I've NEVER seen this type of thing happen? We figured it > would've cracked or broken before bending. Perhaps it was cast that way? We > used a threaded rod from one pivot point to the other in order to draw the > bushes out. On the passenger side, the rod went thru the bushing tubes just > fine, but on the driver side it had to be driven thru. I suppose while > tightening the nuts on the threaded rod, we could've bent it...more than it > was cus it was bent already. We're guessing it was cast that way though. > Also while pulling the outer-most bracket (behind the 4 shims) was a large > hole just next to the spacer tubes. Probably going to need a trailing arm > section...if anyone out there has one?? Well, that and a trailing arm that's > NOT BENT :) > > Cheers, > > Todd Bermudez > Cincinnati, OH > _________________________________________________________________ > Get in touch in an instant. Get Windows Live Messenger now. > http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ > getintouch_042008 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 07:51:00 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:51:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers In-Reply-To: <042020082025.3932.480BA6AE000BA97200000F5C22155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <042020082025.3932.480BA6AE000BA97200000F5C22155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: Duct tape over the rubbers. Best regards, Tom > From: terryrs at comcast.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 20:25:18 +0000 > Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers > > Does anyone know of a source for ball joint boots that don't rot and drop off in just two years? > Gotta be something better out there. > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Get in touch in an instant. Get Windows Live Messenger now. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ getintouch_042008 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Apr 21 08:36:59 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 10:36:59 EDT Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers Message-ID: Tom, now THERE'S an idea! Have you done it? I can imagine black duct tape might even look okay. Did it work well for you? Stick ok? Mike Moore **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Mon Apr 21 08:38:32 2008 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 07:38:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Click adjust Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD642A2@kb1.mossmotors.com> >where can i get one, aprox cost? Well, since no one appears to have answered.... Moss does carry the Gunson Click-Adjust: 386-205 retail price $99.95. Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 From red_tr250 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 08:40:19 2008 From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 10:40:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000 trailing arms bent? In-Reply-To: <035201c8a3b5$e3ed0ab0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <035201c8a3b5$e3ed0ab0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: Thanks Jon, Yep, very familiar with CW...not ordered yet, but I understand the shipping costs are silly money, but if you wanna play.... We'll see what (if anything) turns up in the states... Cheers, Todd> From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com> To: red_tr250 at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph 2000 trailing arms bent?> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:44:52 +0100> > Todd> > If you're unable to locate a replacement arm, we've got hundreds of them lying around in the UK:) I > had four once upon a time! Your best port of call is one Chris Witor. Looks like the part you need > is part # 138112 or 138113- according to side if your car's a Mk1 and not one of the Mk II's > (different #) that have snuck in over the years. Chris has an on-line .pdf catalogue and price list > and it looks as though one of these arms (used but he will have checked it) will cost you about > US$30.00 plus freight. His URL is www.chriswitor.com NFI etc> > Jonmac> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Todd Bermudez" > To: > Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 2:04 PM> Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000 trailing arms bent?> > > > Anyone ever seen a trailing arm bent? I have a '68 Triumph 2000 and while> > replacing the trailing arm bushes(TR6 urethane bushes), we discovered the> > outside pivot point on the trailing arm was noticeably bent inward toward the> > other pivot point. I've NEVER seen this type of thing happen? We figured it> > would've cracked or broken before bending. Perhaps it was cast that way? We> > used a threaded rod from one pivot point to the other in order to draw the> > bushes out. On the passenger side, the rod went thru the bushing tubes just> > fine, but on the driver side it had to be driven thru. I suppose while> > tightening the nuts on the threaded rod, we could've bent it...more than it> > was cus it was bent already. We're guessing it was cast that way though.> > Also while pulling the outer-most bracket (behind the 4 shims) was a large> > hole just next to the spacer tubes. Probably going to need a trailing arm> > section...if anyone out there has one?? Well, that and a trailing arm that's> > NOT BENT :)> >> > Cheers,> >> > Todd Bermudez> > Cincinnati, OH> > _________________________________________________________________> > Get in touch in an instant. Get Windows Live Messenger now.> > http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_> > getintouch_042008> > _______________________________________________> >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> >> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> > http://www.vtr.org> >> >> > Triumphs at autox.team.net> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> >> > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com> >> > http://www.team.net/archive > _________________________________________________________________ Going green? See the top 12 foods to eat organic. http://green.msn.com/galleries/photos/photos.aspx?gid=164&ocid=T003MSN51N1653 A From eoot at citlink.net Mon Apr 21 08:57:13 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 10:57:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers References: <042020082025.3932.480BA6AE000BA97200000F5C22155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <006a01c8a3bf$fcff2600$670a0a0a@MyComputski> Well that explains why I found black electrical tape wrapped around the rubbers by the PO. ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: ; Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 9:51 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers > Duct tape over the rubbers. > > Best regards, > Tom > >> From: terryrs at comcast.net >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 20:25:18 +0000 >> Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers >> >> Does anyone know of a source for ball joint boots that don't rot and drop > off in just two years? >> Gotta be something better out there. >> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) >> New Hampshire >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get in touch in an instant. Get Windows Live Messenger now. > http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ > getintouch_042008 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From dkspence at telus.net Mon Apr 21 11:35:12 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 11:35:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sorry to be so blunt but, dumb idea. While duct tape may be good for many things, (except taping heating ducts) this is not one of them. The exposure to moisture, air flow and flexing would soon cause the tape to dry out and let go. As well, any contamination on the rubber, including or especially shipping wax, would impair adhesion. That and the convoluted surface would make it difficult to get a good "set" in the first instance. Then you add the environment in which you expect it to operate... The one thing that duct tape will stick to forever, is itself, sticky side to sticky side. Other than that it dries out relatively quickly and falls off. Cheers Don On 21-Apr-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: tom white > Date: April 21, 2008 7:51:00 AM MDT (CA) > To: , > Subject: Re: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers > > > Duct tape over the rubbers. > > Best regards, > Tom From PeterSchop at aol.com Mon Apr 21 12:08:27 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:08:27 EDT Subject: [TR] Armstrong shock oil Message-ID: I have the rear shocks off the Six and want to replace the oil in them. What is recommended for use in the lever shocks? A single or multi weight? I remember in an earlier thread someone recommended going to the local Harley shop for shock oil. TIA, Peter Schoppelry '69 TR6 **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From peter at nosimport.com Mon Apr 21 12:15:28 2008 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:15:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Armstrong shock oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080421131251.037afc90@nosimport.com> Peter, The Harley shop, or other motorcycle place will have shock or fork oil. 20W is proper. Too much heavier can do damage. If you have a farm type store near you, you can use a 20W hydraulic oil as they use in implements for rams and the like. AWE68 is the type. Peter C. === At 01:08 PM 4/21/2008, PeterSchop at aol.com wrote: >I have the rear shocks off the Six and want to replace the oil in them. What >is recommended for use in the lever shocks? A single or multi weight? I >remember in an earlier thread someone recommended going to >the local Harley shop >for shock oil. > >TIA, >Peter Schoppelry >'69 TR6 From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Apr 21 12:54:28 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:54:28 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Armstrong shock oil Message-ID: Motorcycle racing shock oil seems to work fine for TR4 #197. I suspect that I will put this in the TR3A street, as I about ready to replace them. Joe A > I have the rear shocks off the Six and want to replace the oil in them. > What > is recommended for use in the lever shocks? A single or multi weight? I > remember in an earlier thread someone recommended going to the local Harley > shop > for shock oil. > > TIA, > Peter Schoppelry > '69 TR6 > From dncullig at us.ibm.com Mon Apr 21 13:29:57 2008 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 15:29:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000 trailing arms bent? Message-ID: Todd Bermudez wrote: >Anyone ever seen a trailing arm bent? If you back into something hard enough and hit dead center on the rear tire without blowing the tire and/or bending the rim, the trailing arm will bend (ask me how I know :-( ) Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 - CF57948U - TR6IUMPH From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Apr 21 16:50:30 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:50:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] Armstrong shock oil Message-ID: <042120082250.19220.480D1A360000007600004B1422165258069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > >I have the rear shocks off the Six and want to replace the oil in them. What > >is recommended for use in the lever shocks? A single or multi weight? I > >remember in an earlier thread someone recommended going to > >the local Harley shop > >for shock oil. Peter, when I restored my TR3A, I did exactly that. Am right now looking at a plastic pint of Harley Hydraulic Fork Oil Type "B." It took just half the pint bottle after emptying the lever arm shocks, to fill them back up again. The remainder will be used for topping off now and again when I finish the garage. Terry Smith New Hampshire (The 3 is washed, waxed, greased, oil changed, and alternator converted. It gets inspected Thursday, then it's back on the road!) From ElangTR4 at aol.com Mon Apr 21 17:15:59 2008 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 19:15:59 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph Brew Swap Message-ID: Marty, The Brew Swap is a great idea. Should it be the "Official List Meeting"? Eric L. 71 TR6 **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From L1J1S at aol.com Mon Apr 21 18:00:34 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 20:00:34 EDT Subject: [TR] bandai tr3's Message-ID: hello, is anyone here on the list into collecting the bandai series tr3 models? larry schwartz **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Apr 21 18:33:48 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 20:33:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Brew Swap References: Message-ID: <01c601c8a410$888e0560$b5007247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Great Idea !!!!!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 7:15 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Brew Swap > Marty, > > The Brew Swap is a great idea. Should it be the "Official List Meeting"? > > Eric L. > 71 TR6 > > > > **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used > car > listings at AOL Autos. > (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Apr 21 18:55:20 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 20:55:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Armstrong shock oil In-Reply-To: <042120082250.19220.480D1A360000007600004B1422165258069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <480CFF38.32516.B343F1E@localhost> On 21 Apr 2008 at 22:50, Terry Smith in New Hampshire wrote: > The 3 is washed, waxed, greased, oil changed, and alternator > converted. That's great, Terry. In an other month or two when the snow melts you'll be able to drive it! Pray tell, did you alternate the converter too? Just curious. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Apr 22 06:52:34 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 12:52:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: When I installed my Revington steering the first thing that happened was the rubbers on the tie rod ends split. So I taped the rubbers to the tie rod ends. The tape stuck, they must be cleaned with brake cleaner first. With the car on stands for revisions this year I removed the old duct tape and applied new. Best regards, Tom From: MMoore8425 at aol.com Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 10:36:59 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers To: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com; terryrs at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Tom, now THERE'S an idea! Have you done it? I can imagine black duct tape might even look okay. Did it work well for you? Stick ok? Mike Moore Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself wherever you are. Mobilize! http://www.gowindowslive.com/Mobile/Landing/Messenger/Default.aspx?Locale=en- US?ocid=TAG_APRIL From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Apr 22 07:00:17 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 13:00:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm sure glad no one told me this before I did it. It has worked fine for over a year. Best regards, Tom From: dkspence at telus.net Subject: Re: Ball Joint Rubbers Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 11:35:12 -0600 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sorry to be so blunt but, dumb idea. While duct tape may be good for many things, (except taping heating ducts) this is not one of them. The exposure to moisture, air flow and flexing would soon cause the tape to dry out and let go. As well, any contamination on the rubber, including or especially shipping wax, would impair adhesion. That and the convoluted surface would make it difficult to get a good "set" in the first instance. Then you add the environment in which you expect it to operate... The one thing that duct tape will stick to forever, is itself, sticky side to sticky side. Other than that it dries out relatively quickly and falls off.CheersDon On 21-Apr-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:From: tom white Date: April 21, 2008 7:51:00 AM MDT (CA) To: , Subject: Re: [TR] Ball Joint Rubbers Duct tape over the rubbers. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Make i'm yours. Create a custom banner to support your cause. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Contribute/Default.aspx?source=TXT_TAGHM_MSN_ Make_IM_Yours From jmerone at rocketmail.com Tue Apr 22 09:12:37 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 08:12:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Free TR6 Transmission Message-ID: <17109.87990.qm@web30908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> All: On Sunday Trevor the TR6 emerged from long his winter hibernation all rejuvenated and ready for another year of motoring. It was the perfect day for a nice 100-mile shake out cruise. It's now been 1 year and 4000 miles since I installed a HVDA 5-speed in the car. I kept the original 4-speed in the corner of the garage "just in case" anything went wrong after the conversion. Well that hasn't happened, so as promised I'm offering it up free of charge to anyone who would like it. The 4-speed has 96K original miles on it, and is in good shape. It always shifted well, the fluif was clean, leaks minimal (really) and there's no reason that this couldn't just be bolted right on to a car if needed. Important note: This transmission must be picked up within the next two weeks. After that it's off to the dump. No shipping - although I will deliver it within a 50 mile radius of my home. If you are interested, please contact me off-list. Thanks, Joe Merone CF18928 5-speed South Burlington, VT ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Tue Apr 22 09:17:48 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 11:17:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help with odd issue on my TR6 Message-ID: Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This all made sense, but no more. Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I just can't understand. Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 From triosan at gmail.com Tue Apr 22 09:45:37 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 08:45:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8cbd782d0804220845x1d43c2dbq1268fad3ac5e4a8e@mail.gmail.com> You obviously need a new header, PI, a hotter cam, a better cooling system, more compression, close ratio gears, a new rear axle set, stronger front axels, toyota 5 speed and 4 pot front rotors, roller rockers -- all the things we need to keep the cars off the road and in repair forever! Enjoy it while you got it. On Tue, Apr 22, 2008 at 8:17 AM, Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> wrote: > Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. > Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I > have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its > territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This > all made sense, but no more. > > Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights > that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I > just can't understand. > > Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now > able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling > noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? > > > Ashford Little > GTA Director > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > '70 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From red_tr250 at hotmail.com Tue Apr 22 10:04:16 2008 From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 12:04:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0804220845x1d43c2dbq1268fad3ac5e4a8e@mail.gmail.com> References: <8cbd782d0804220845x1d43c2dbq1268fad3ac5e4a8e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: either that or buy an mg> Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 08:45:37 -0700> From: triosan at gmail.com> To: 70tr6 at mindspring.com> CC: Triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6> > You obviously need a new header, PI, a hotter cam, a better cooling system,> more compression, close ratio gears, a new rear axle set, stronger front> axels, toyota 5 speed and 4 pot front rotors, roller rockers -- all the> things we need to keep the cars off the road and in repair forever!> > Enjoy it while you got it.> > On Tue, Apr 22, 2008 at 8:17 AM, Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com>> wrote:> > > Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it.> > Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I> > have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its> > territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This> > all made sense, but no more.> >> > Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights> > that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I> > just can't understand.> >> > Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now> > able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling> > noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do?> >> >> > Ashford Little> > GTA Director> > 6-Pack Membership Secretary> > '70 TR6> > _______________________________________________> >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> >> > 6pack at autox.team.net> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> >> > http://www.team.net/archive> >> > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com> >> > > > -- > Chuck Arnold> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Back to work after babyhow do you know when youre ready? http://lifestyle.msn.com/familyandparenting/articleNW.aspx?cp-documentid=5797 498&ocid=T067MSN40A0701A From fishplate at charter.net Tue Apr 22 11:39:53 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 13:39:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080422133953.G16PG.40148.root@fepweb06> ---- Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> wrote: > > Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights > that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I > just can't understand. > > Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now > able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling > noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? Fortunately, I have a couple of cars that you can trade for...all of them exhibit the characteristics you seek, and will be perfect for your needs. Plus, You won't spend much money on gasoline, since you won't be going very far... Jeff Scarbrough Athens, Ga. http://fishplate.org/vehicles/ From tr6parts at charter.net Tue Apr 22 12:15:34 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 11:15:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080422141534.MDHTZ.478893.root@fepweb16> Its probably brown and your in the wrong car. ---- Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> wrote: > Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. > Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I > have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its > territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This > all made sense, but no more. > > Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights > that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I > just can't understand. > > Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now > able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling > noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? > > > Ashford Little > GTA Director > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > '70 TR6 > _______________________________________________ From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Apr 22 13:35:52 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 15:35:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Help with odd issue on my TR6 Message-ID: In a message dated 4/22/2008 10:18:27 AM Central Daylight Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. > Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I > have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its > territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This > all made sense, but no more. > > Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights > that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I > just can't understand. > > Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now > able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling > noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? > Take great care, Ashford. Now that you have a motor that doesn't need fixin' you stand a great risk of investing in stuff like wheel well lights and spinning hubcaps. Your Roadster Factory catalog might wind up underneath the J. C. Whitney catalog on your coffee table. I suggest you seek treatment quickly. Go work on Al's car for a while. Dave From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Tue Apr 22 14:10:54 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 16:10:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: But Al's car already has curb feelers and wheel well lights! There's rumor of a 55 mph governor on his car too, but it's hidden and no race official has found it yet. Bling! Bling! Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 > > Take great care, Ashford. Now that you have a motor that doesn't > need fixin' > you stand a great risk of investing in stuff like wheel well lights > and > spinning hubcaps. Your Roadster Factory catalog might wind up > underneath the J. C. > Whitney catalog on your coffee table. > > I suggest you seek treatment quickly. Go work on Al's car for a > while. > > Dave From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 22 14:42:06 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 16:42:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel line dilemna Message-ID: <020901c8a4b9$548ad9b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Yikes! I just spoke with Classic Tube. They said the 3 piece SS 5/16th" fuel line that I ordered for $140 was only for the line from the tank to the fuel pump. It would be $40 more for the 1/4" line from the fuel pump to the carbs. I said no thank you, "I'll stick with my rubber tubing". Also, the salesman said that he didn't have a schematic as to how they go on the TR3A. Can someone help me with the UNIDENTIFIED #3 piece shown below? The 3 pieces of SS 5/16" line they sent me include: #1. a 3' line which includes a right hand turn about 15" from the FUEL TANK END (I ordered R side tank draining at special request) #2. a 5' line which attaches to #1 (above), and at the other end gradually turns up 4" for the FUEL PUMP AND NOW FOR THE UNIDENTIFIED PIECE: #3. a 7 inch line in the shape of a curved right angle - WHERE DOES THIS PIECE GO??? Thanks to Andrew U. I have a pic of a rusted out chassis with remanents of a fuel line (which doesn't show #3! Also, this piece does not connect the SU carbs to each other. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A TS71318 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Apr 22 15:32:41 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 17:32:41 EDT Subject: [TR] Help with odd issue on my TR6 Message-ID: In a message dated 4/22/2008 3:11:12 PM Central Daylight Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > > There's rumor of a 55 mph governor on his car too, but it's hidden and > no race official has found it yet. > I doubt he's noticed it yet. Dave From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Apr 22 15:24:00 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 14:24:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel line dilemna In-Reply-To: <020901c8a4b9$548ad9b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <020901c8a4b9$548ad9b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: That 7" piece sounds like the short bit that connects the rubber line to the fuel pump inlet. As for the 1/4" line and your "I'll stick with my rubber tubing" -- From the fuel pump to the carbs was originally a 1/4" hard line (not rubber) and I think this is a good thing to keep. Maybe you don't need stainless for that run but I don't care for the look and question the safety of snaking a long run of rubber fuel line around the engine. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" > I said no thank you, "I'll stick with my rubber tubing"... > ...AND NOW FOR THE UNIDENTIFIED PIECE: > #3. a 7 inch line in the shape of a curved right angle - WHERE DOES > THIS > PIECE GO??? From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Apr 22 18:31:52 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 19:31:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel line dilemna In-Reply-To: References: <020901c8a4b9$548ad9b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200804222031.53197.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 22 April 2008 05:24 pm, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > That 7" piece sounds like the short bit that connects the rubber line to > the fuel pump inlet. > > As for the 1/4" line and your "I'll stick with my rubber tubing" -- From > the fuel pump to the carbs was originally a 1/4" hard line (not rubber) and > I think this is a good thing to keep. > > Maybe you don't need stainless for that run but I don't care for the look > and question the safety of snaking a long run of rubber fuel line around > the engine. > > Geo The 1/4 " hard line from pump to carbs is available from Moss. Part # 376-220. You have to bend the pipe to the original shape but it is that softer steel. Price about 32 bucks. Or you can go buy some bulk soft pipe and bend it yourself. Bob From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Apr 22 19:03:21 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 21:03:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] alloy radiator Message-ID: <000e01c8a4dd$d300ecc0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> http://www.wizardcooling.com/shop/productlisting.aspx So beautiful that I've had my TR3 Wizard in the living room for the past year (complete with fan and thermostat) Ed Woods From tom628 at verizon.net Tue Apr 22 21:29:09 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 23:29:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Leak in Heater Message-ID: <004f01c8a4f2$31c20960$2f01a8c0@Toms> Our '76 TR6 seems to have developed a leak in the heater core. Fortunately it's not too bad yet, and mostly happens when the rpm gets up around 4K or higher, and it stops when the heater valve is closed. My Haynes Manual does not address removal of the heater assy., but it looks to be a bear and my impression is that the dash, and who knows wat else, has to be removed to get the heater out. Is that correct? If so, anyone have any less drastic suggestions, like pumping some stop-leak just through the heater? TIA, Tom From thomas309 at aol.com Wed Apr 23 01:35:30 2008 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 03:35:30 EDT Subject: [TR] 1968 Trimuph TR 250 NFI Message-ID: Ct craigslist, not mine, NFI. Tom _1968 Trimuph TR 250 Rare British Racing Green_ (http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/652807742.html) **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Apr 23 06:02:54 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:02:54 EDT Subject: [TR] Leak in Heater Message-ID: In a message dated 4/22/2008 10:29:31 PM Central Daylight Time, tom628 at verizon.net writes: > Our '76 TR6 seems to have developed a leak in the heater core. Fortunately > it's not too bad yet, and mostly happens when the rpm gets up around 4K or > higher, and it stops when the heater valve is closed. > > My Haynes Manual does not address removal of the heater assy., but it looks > to be a bear and my impression is that the dash, and who knows wat else, has > > to be removed to get the heater out. > Is that correct? > > If so, anyone have any less drastic suggestions, like pumping some stop-leak > > just through the heater? > No need to remove the dash but pulling the transmission cover (which is easier) helps. And the glove box. Easier than some cars (both British and domestic) I've worked on. Dave From banc8004 at comcast.net Wed Apr 23 06:52:02 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:52:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU Carb tool set Message-ID: <9939eeea7515d17f3aa4243622406afb@comcast.net> Listerati, I bought from one of the big three *sigh* - I can't recall which - an SU carb tool set for my TR4's H6 SUs. Its the blue plastic wallet-type, containing 3 aluminium rods (one oval), three wire pointers, and a jet centering 'pin'. I had carried this 'Made in Taiwan' tool set for several thousand miles, but had always adjusted the carbs without it. This week, I tried to use it, and found: The jet centering 'pin' doesn't fit in the jet - its too big. The wire pointers which are folded back like a paperclip at one end to fit into the set's rods when in the top of the carb...don't fit. The jet centering pin being too large is consistent with what we found with a club member's similar tool set at a recent tech session. This flaw negates an important part of the carb set-up.. but I fixed the pointers in a few minutes with needle-nose pliers. Its annoying that these errors make the set next to useless. Its annoying that suppliers pass these dodgy kits on to us without checking if they are actually fit for purpose. Does anyone know a source for a GENUINE SU carb tool set? And...beware modern asian 'copies' of these sets. They sell for around $25 as I recall, and the little blue plastic wallet they come in might be the most valuable part of the kit. Brian in Valley Forge 1963 TR4 CT 144455 L From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Apr 23 07:17:15 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 13:17:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: <20080422133953.G16PG.40148.root@fepweb06> References: <20080422133953.G16PG.40148.root@fepweb06> Message-ID: Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights > that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I > just can't understand. Drive the hell out of it. This is the quite before the storm. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Back to work after babyhow do you know when youre ready? http://lifestyle.msn.com/familyandparenting/articleNW.aspx?cp-documentid=5797 498&ocid=T067MSN40A0701A From jmerone at rocketmail.com Wed Apr 23 07:19:25 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 06:19:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny finds good home Message-ID: <304199.24074.qm@web30906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Just a quick message to let you know that I found my old transmission a good home yesterday and spared myself the eternal guilt of having to take it to some cold and lonely dump - where it would turn the drive gears of a TR6 no more. And here's the best part: Even with the global reach of this thing called the internet, David Johnson - my new fellow Triumph enthusiast - lives only 20 miles from my house and came by and picked it up by 5:30 p.m. yesterday. Keepin' it local, Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 5-speed ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From 59tr3driver at gmail.com Wed Apr 23 08:19:42 2008 From: 59tr3driver at gmail.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 10:19:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU Carb tool set In-Reply-To: <9939eeea7515d17f3aa4243622406afb@comcast.net> References: <9939eeea7515d17f3aa4243622406afb@comcast.net> Message-ID: <010B0C15DDC746D29C84A370AA626145@Meislaptop> > The jet centering 'pin' doesn't fit in the jet - its too big. Frankly, I found even the genuine SU centering pin to be somewhat less than effective. Even after aligning with it, I found that the needle rubbed the jet hard enough to affect piston motion. Not sure exactly what the problem is; but I can see at least 2 potential problems with the basic design : 1) It assumes that the needle runs concentric with the hole in the carb body ... if it was all machined that accurately then there would be no need for jet centering at all ! 2) The SU jet centering pin is a very light push fit into both jet & carb body; which means several .001" of clearance ... enough to allow significant misalignment. What works for me is to remove the mixture nut and push the jet all the way up. Then fiddle with the jet housing until the needle fits cleanly into the (higher than normal) jet with the clamp nut firmly tightened (tightening the nut seems to always move the jet a bit). Then pull the jet out, reinstall the mixture nut and spring, and reinstall the jet. This uses the base of the needle itself as the centering pin, so no question of machining tolerances stacking up; and having the jet higher than normal ensures there is actually some clearance with the jet in normal position. YMMV of course, but I've used this technique many times and on several different TR3/As; works for me. Oh yeah, I got a genuine SU tool kit from JC Whitney over 30 years ago ... they don't carry them any more Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 23 08:31:24 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 09:31:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 References: <20080422133953.G16PG.40148.root@fepweb06> Message-ID: <003301c8a54f$74b97610$24a7a8c0@garage.local> "quite before the storm" kind of like fluif, eh? > > Drive the hell out of it. This is the quite before the storm. > > > Best regards, > Tom From flashtr3 at cox.net Wed Apr 23 10:12:25 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 09:12:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel line dilemna References: <020901c8a4b9$548ad9b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <200804222031.53197.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <00a601c8a55c$d1b62a90$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> On my TR3A I have an original lever type AC fuel pump and the inlet as well as the outlet from the pump uses 5/16" tubing & fittings. At the end of the steel outlet line from pump that wraps around the engine to the inlet connection of carbs must be reduced to 1/4" rubber line before connecting to 1/4" brass tube coming out of the front carb on the TR3A . I used the billet fuel filter Moss sells or for that matter any after market fuel filter will probably work just as well, to reduce from 5/16" to 1/4". If you need a photo I can send one off line of my installation. Ibsen TS35658LO ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Labuz To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 5:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 fuel line dilemna On Tuesday 22 April 2008 05:24 pm, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > That 7" piece sounds like the short bit that connects the rubber line to > the fuel pump inlet. > > As for the 1/4" line and your "I'll stick with my rubber tubing" -- From > the fuel pump to the carbs was originally a 1/4" hard line (not rubber) and > I think this is a good thing to keep. > > Maybe you don't need stainless for that run but I don't care for the look > and question the safety of snaking a long run of rubber fuel line around > the engine. > > Geo The 1/4 " hard line from pump to carbs is available from Moss. Part # 376-220. You have to bend the pipe to the original shape but it is that softer steel. Price about 32 bucks. Or you can go buy some bulk soft pipe and bend it yourself. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From WLSServ at aol.com Wed Apr 23 12:31:48 2008 From: WLSServ at aol.com (WLSServ at aol.com) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 14:31:48 EDT Subject: [TR] FYI Castrol Oil Message-ID: This was forwarded to me from someone on the MG list Sorry if it's a rerun and I missed it! Walt TR3, TR6, Spit, 95 Exploder -------- Original Message -------- Subject: RE: CastrolUSA - Expert Advice Form Data Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:22:20 -0400 From: Castrol To: *Thank you for contacting Castrol,* * * The latest API SM/ILSAC GF-4 category calls for reduced Zinc and Phosphorus levels to allow extended catalyst life in current model vehicles. There appear to be field issues associated with the SM/GF-4 oil's level of antiwear in the classic car engines known as flat tappet cam engines. The current late model passenger car engines are not flat tappet cam engines and have no reported field issues related to the level of antiwear chemistry in the SM/GF-4 oils. **_Product Recommendations for Flat Tappet (Solid Lifter) Cam Engines:_** Castrol Syntec 5W-40 (min Zn = 0.10 wt % = 1000 ppm)(full synthetic) Castrol Syntec 20W-50 (Recent reformulation identified by "Recommended for Classic Cars" text on back label) (min Zn = 0.12 = 1200 ppm)(full synthetic) PREFERRED Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W-60 (BMW dealerships) (min Zn = 0.10 = 1000 ppm)(full synthetic) BMW Long Life 5W-30 (BMW dealerships)(min Zn = 0.095 = 950 ppm)(full synthetic) **_New Motorcycle Products, Expected to be Available Q2 2008:_** Castrol 4T 10W-40 and 20W-50 (min Zn = 0.10 wt % = 1000 ppm) Castrol Actevo X-Tra 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-40 and 20W-50 (min Zn = 0.10 = 1000 ppm) Castrol Actevo X-Tra Offroad 10W-40 and 20W-50 (min Zn = 0.10 = 1000 ppm) Castrol Power RS GPS 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50 (min Zn = 0.12 = 1200 ppm) PREFERED Castrol Power RS R4 10W-50 and 5W-40 (min Zn = 0.12 = 1200 ppm) PREFERED Castrol Power RS V-Twin 20W-40 and 20W-50 (min Zn = 0.12 = 1200 ppm) PREFERED **_Existing Motorcycle Products, Will Be Transitioning Out:_** Castrol Grand Prix 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil 10W-40, 20W-50 (min Zn = 0.10 wt % = 1000 ppm) Castrol GO! 10W-40, 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil (min Zn = 0.10 = 1000 ppm) Castrol Consumer Relations **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Apr 23 13:28:39 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 15:28:39 EDT Subject: [TR] alloy radiator Message-ID: In a message dated 4/22/2008 8:04:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: So beautiful that I've had my TR3 Wizard in the living room for the past year (complete with fan and thermostat) Hey Ed, I have my GT6+ Wizard sitting along side her for a month or so just begging to go in. It is a beautiful thing to behold. Going in within the next week so the GT can go to the Spring Opener which is the 31st annual North East Ohio Austin Healey British Car Show and Swap Meet. Cheers, Darrell **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From elliottr at rmi.net Wed Apr 23 18:14:35 2008 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 19:14:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 - TR6 Distributor Message-ID: <480FD0EB.1050001@rmi.net> Hi, Does anyone know where I can get a breaker plate (base plate) for a Lucas Distributor 22D - 41306? Barring that, what is the recommendation have the distributor rebuilt? Replace it with ....? It has the tach drive on the distributor. Thanks, Roger Elliott From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Apr 23 18:43:26 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 19:43:26 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR250_-_TR6_=C2=A0Distributor?= Message-ID: <28884325.826311208997806235.JavaMail.root@vms171.mailsrvcs.net> Talk to Jeff at http://www.advanceddistributors.com/. He can get the part, and he can rebuild the distributor for you. He did mine this winter, cost me $99, and he put the best cap and rotor on it I had ever seen at my request. The whole deal was $125, dropped in, adjusted, you just can't believe what a difference it would make. Give him a call. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 From: Roger Elliott Date: 2008/04/23 Wed PM 07:14:35 CDT To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR250 - TR6 Distributor Hi, Does anyone know where I can get a breaker plate (base plate) for a Lucas Distributor 22D - 41306? Barring that, what is the recommendation have the distributor rebuilt? Replace it with ....? It has the tach drive on the distributor. Thanks, Roger Elliott This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From tom628 at verizon.net Wed Apr 23 21:38:33 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 23:38:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Leak in Heater References: Message-ID: <008f01c8a5bc$ac7d8100$2f01a8c0@Toms> Thanks Dave. That's good to know. It'll be a good off-season project. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 8:02 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Leak in Heater > In a message dated 4/22/2008 10:29:31 PM Central Daylight Time, > tom628 at verizon.net writes: >> Our '76 TR6 seems to have developed a leak in the heater core. >> Fortunately >> it's not too bad yet, and mostly happens when the rpm gets up around 4K >> or >> higher, and it stops when the heater valve is closed. >> >> My Haynes Manual does not address removal of the heater assy., but it >> looks >> to be a bear and my impression is that the dash, and who knows wat else, >> has >> >> to be removed to get the heater out. >> Is that correct? >> >> If so, anyone have any less drastic suggestions, like pumping some >> stop-leak >> >> just through the heater? >> > No need to remove the dash but pulling the transmission cover (which is > easier) helps. And the glove box. > > Easier than some cars (both British and domestic) I've worked on. > > Dave > _______________________________________________ From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Apr 23 21:55:40 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 21:55:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Wedge] Re: [Spits] UK Government not planning to ban old cars In-Reply-To: References: <9f2527520804230801i711fd405l7b519dc4192d251d@mail.gmail.com> <480F766F.3010108@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <481004BC.4040808@tscusa.org> Charles, Maybe it will be better the second time around? Have a go at it. We had a discussion about this at one joint LBC club meeting last November. A comment was made that that meeting that the regional SEMA group did nothing to prevent this in 2007 although they were aware of the changes. Glenn charles frink wrote: > Glenn > > I had just finished a long reply to your email and hit the wrong > button. It is now ???? in cyber space. > > The long and short of it was if we dont do something to stop this > lunacy we will be driving uninspiring iron which have no SOUL. There > must be people of some importance who, if willing to step up, could > stop this political pandering. > > I drive my non stock TR8 somewhere around 3000 miles per year. Most > of us who are auto hobbiest's do much the same thing. > > Before I say something which is certain to offend some folks I will > get off my soapbox but will close with a plea for help from ????. How > does one "LOVE" an Impala as one "LOVES" their > TR8--TR6--TR4--Spit--Healey--MGA--MGB--Alpine--and all those > "Loveable" cars of yesterday from all over the world. > > Perhaps I should install an electric traction motor in the 8. That > might keep the tree huggers quiet for a while (NAH on both counts). > > Charles > > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From mrm at clking.com Thu Apr 24 05:41:10 2008 From: mrm at clking.com (Mitch R. Meisler) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 07:41:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?TR250_-_TR6_=A0Distributor?= In-Reply-To: <28884325.826311208997806235.JavaMail.root@vms171.mailsrvcs.net> References: <28884325.826311208997806235.JavaMail.root@vms171.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <30E72F324648024B956BC3B3C1CF9B240172EAAF@clking01exc02.clkingw2k.local> Second the motion on jeff at advanced. He's rebuilt all 3 of my triumphs. While you're at it, have him put in a pertronix. Also let him know of any engine mods so he can recurve dizzy to meet your engine. Difference will be very notable Mitch Meisler Managing Director, Institutional Sales CL King & Associates Nine Elk Street Albany, New York, 12207 518-431-3512-work 518-528-2263-cell AOL IM = MEISLERCLKA E-MAIL = mrm at clking.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 8:43 PM To: Triumphs; Roger Elliott Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 - TR6 Distributor Talk to Jeff at http://www.advanceddistributors.com/. He can get the part, and he can rebuild the distributor for you. He did mine this winter, cost me $99, and he put the best cap and rotor on it I had ever seen at my request. The whole deal was $125, dropped in, adjusted, you just can't believe what a difference it would make. Give him a call. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 From: Roger Elliott Date: 2008/04/23 Wed PM 07:14:35 CDT To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR250 - TR6 Distributor Hi, Does anyone know where I can get a breaker plate (base plate) for a Lucas Distributor 22D - 41306? Barring that, what is the recommendation have the distributor rebuilt? Replace it with ....? It has the tach drive on the distributor. Thanks, Roger Elliott This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as mrm at clking.com http://www.team.net/archive ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________ From flashtr3 at cox.net Thu Apr 24 11:05:22 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 10:05:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] fuel line dilemna References: <022f01c8a585$084879a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <002e01c8a62d$626da0b0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Here is the pics I sent to Bill Beech for his TR3 Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: dorpaul To: Ibsen Dow Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 2:00 PM Subject: fuel line dilemna A photo of the line would be great! Thanks, Paul ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try SPAMfighter for free now! [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010148.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010149.JPG] From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Thu Apr 24 11:56:50 2008 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 10:56:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] FYI Castrol Oil Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD64300@kb1.mossmotors.com> It's nice they have increased Zinc levels, but the level of phosphorus is just as important. It is the combination in what is referred to as ZDDP that protects flat tappet engines. Peter Arakelian - '71TR6 From flashtr3 at cox.net Thu Apr 24 12:03:39 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 11:03:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 parts needed Message-ID: <000e01c8a635$865fc540$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Does anyone have a spare l.h. (drivers side) trailing arm assy. and a sliding axle & slip joint assy available or where I might find these parts? It is a '71 TR6 and the one I have is damage beyond repair. Ibsen From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 24 15:08:42 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 17:08:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Of all the gall... Message-ID: <026201c8a64f$610cb8b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I thought I'd take extra precaution in getting ready to install my new SS brake lines from Classic Tubing. When rubbing a 'ladies panty hose' over the flared ends of my new SS brake lines they often snag on the face of the flare. However, they do not snag on a dry Q-tip. Should I be concerned? (SS smoothness is a primary consideration in an effort to prevent galling from occuring.) Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 325 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Apr 24 15:39:48 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 15:39:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] Of all the gall... In-Reply-To: <026201c8a64f$610cb8b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <026201c8a64f$610cb8b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <4810FE24.5040103@tscusa.org> dorpaul wrote: > I thought I'd take extra precaution in getting ready to install my new SS > brake lines from Classic Tubing. > > When rubbing a 'ladies panty hose' over the flared ends of my new SS brake > lines they often snag on the face of the flare. However, they do not snag on > a dry Q-tip. Should I be concerned? (SS smoothness is a primary > consideration in an effort to prevent galling from occuring.) > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 > > > Paul, The sealing surface is inside the flare. You will see a shiny ring made by the flaring tool or machine and that spot should mate up with the opposite flare. So say if the outside lip has a burr on it that does not contact the opposite flare seal surface, don't worry about it. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From elliottr at rmi.net Thu Apr 24 16:37:17 2008 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 17:37:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 - TR6 Distributor In-Reply-To: <28884325.826311208997806235.JavaMail.root@vms171.mailsrvcs.net> References: <28884325.826311208997806235.JavaMail.root@vms171.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <48110B9D.1070809@rmi.net> The consensus seems to be Advanced Distributors so I will give them a call. Thanks Craig, Mitch and Karl. Rgoer thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Talk to Jeff at http://www.advanceddistributors.com/. > > He can get the part, and he can rebuild the distributor for you. He did mine this winter, cost me $99, and he put the best cap and rotor on it I had ever seen at my request. The whole deal was $125, dropped in, adjusted, you just can't believe what a difference it would make. > > Give him a call. > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > > From: Roger Elliott > Date: 2008/04/23 Wed PM 07:14:35 CDT > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] TR250 - TR6 Distributor > > Hi, > > Does anyone know where I can get a breaker plate (base plate) for a > Lucas Distributor 22D - 41306? Barring that, what is the > recommendation have the distributor rebuilt? Replace it with ....? > > It has the tach drive on the distributor. > > Thanks, From PeterSchop at aol.com Thu Apr 24 17:44:17 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 19:44:17 EDT Subject: [TR] Armstrong shock oil - follow up Message-ID: In an earlier post looking for oil for the lever shocks, some of the suggestions were to use 20W hydraulic oil, motorcycle racing shock oil and Harley Hydraulic Fork Oil Type "B." What I ended up using was Screamin' Eagle Performance Heavy Oil from my local Harley dealer for $4. After doing a little research, I found that the Harley type "B" is 10 wt, Screamin' Eagle Performance Fork Oil is 15wt, Screamin' Eagle Racing Fork Oil is 20wt. I also found Bel-Ray has fork oil available in 5wt, 7wt, 10wt, 15wt, 20wt and 30wt. When I drained the oil in the Armstrong shock, I had to use a 13mm wrench to remove the plug on the top of the shock. After I poured the old oil out, I used a turkey baster as a funnel to refill. Slow job as the oil has to pass thru the valve in the shock displacing the air inside. I used less than half of the pint bottle. Peter Schoppelry **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From leejohn7 at gmail.com Thu Apr 24 18:07:39 2008 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 17:07:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Head Message-ID: Does anyone know the stock thickness of the head? Mine, after valve job and light surfacing and who knows what else over its long life, measures 3.305 inches. I don't see this particular spec in Bentley's. Thanks John Howard From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Apr 24 18:56:30 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 20:56:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Armstrong shock oil - follow up Message-ID: <6AF976A1.14FF9277.00159EE9@cs.com> Thanks for the diligent research! I am about to go shopping for two TRs. I think I will use your choice of the 15wt for my TR3A (street) and the 20wt for my Ambro-TR project. I suppose you know that you can play with the valving in these shocks, too? On my TR4 #197, I used MGB valves from the MG front shocks in the TR4 rears. This was a long time ago, so the details are lost to me. Very stiff, but that's what I needed. Joe A >In an earlier post looking for oil for the lever shocks, some of the >suggestions were to use 20W hydraulic oil, motorcycle racing shock oil and Harley >Hydraulic Fork Oil Type "B." What I ended up using was Screamin' Eagle >Performance Heavy Oil from my local Harley dealer for $4. > >After doing a little research, I found that the Harley type "B" is 10 wt, >Screamin' Eagle Performance Fork Oil is 15wt, Screamin' Eagle Racing Fork Oil is > 20wt. I also found Bel-Ray has fork oil available in 5wt, 7wt, 10wt, 15wt, >20wt and 30wt. > >When I drained the oil in the Armstrong shock, I had to use a 13mm wrench to >remove the plug on the top of the shock. After I poured the old oil out, I >used a turkey baster as a funnel to refill. Slow job as the oil has to pass >thru the valve in the shock displacing the air inside. I used less than half of >the pint bottle. > >Peter Schoppelry > > > >**************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car >listings at AOL Autos. >(http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Apr 24 19:08:17 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 21:08:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Armstrong shock oil - follow up References: Message-ID: <004601c8a670$d8ab44b0$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> I did get some 60wt Harley racing shock oil for my rear shocks at the massive Harley place in Dayton Beach a few years ago (and it is Harley Racing Oil badged too): it pours like treacle ... it took ages to get the oil in the shocks (had to warm it) and they were as stiff as hell ... for regular driving, really firm and much better than standard (no squat at the rear). But when we autox'd the car, after one lap, it was like a kangaroo at the rear ... the shocks had no resistance at all, so I'm guessing that the oil was totally aerated ... this is the problem that plagued Armstrong shocks from day one ... really heavy loads leads to loss of shock effectiveness with oils weight other than standard, and the standard shocks are naff to say the least .... You can revalve the Armstrong's, but they are a very poor high performance shock design from the outset. The 2000 saloon never used Armstrong's: it used tubular shocks and was a superb rally car with good high perf. shocks ... I'd go for a tube shock conversion and add some adjustable Bilsteins if I was you ... (I have them on the front, and will add them to the rear at some point soon). ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 7:44 PM Subject: [TR] Armstrong shock oil - follow up > In an earlier post looking for oil for the lever shocks, some of the > suggestions were to use 20W hydraulic oil, motorcycle racing shock oil > and Harley > Hydraulic Fork Oil Type "B." What I ended up using was Screamin' Eagle > Performance Heavy Oil from my local Harley dealer for $4. > > After doing a little research, I found that the Harley type "B" is 10 wt, > Screamin' Eagle Performance Fork Oil is 15wt, Screamin' Eagle Racing Fork > Oil is > 20wt. I also found Bel-Ray has fork oil available in 5wt, 7wt, 10wt, 15wt, > 20wt and 30wt. > > When I drained the oil in the Armstrong shock, I had to use a 13mm wrench > to > remove the plug on the top of the shock. After I poured the old oil out, I > used a turkey baster as a funnel to refill. Slow job as the oil has to > pass > thru the valve in the shock displacing the air inside. I used less than > half of > the pint bottle. > > Peter Schoppelry From agraham at execulink.com Thu Apr 24 19:35:25 2008 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 21:35:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 2/4 block drain petcock Message-ID: <200804250136.m3P1ai9J018703@smtp2.execulink.net> Good day listers: Has anyone used one of the newer ball-valve petcocks for the drain petcock in the side of the TR2/4 block? Wondering if a ball-valve can be sourced for this application? The threads look like 1/2" std. pipe threads, but I gather that the valve body has to seal against the block with a gasket or "O" ring. Haven't found anything that might work. The original petcock on my block has pretty well had it with the spring corroding to nothingness. Thought that a ball valve might be a good substitution. Thanks in advance for any advice. Angelo Graham From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Apr 24 20:59:41 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 19:59:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 2/4 block drain petcock In-Reply-To: <200804250136.m3P1ai9J018703@smtp2.execulink.net> References: <200804250136.m3P1ai9J018703@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: <4F4F6E0D-ADDD-4523-8C76-C2424357E8B4@cox.net> The one I replaced was a ball cock type & replaced it with what I believe is also a ball cock, quarter turn on off. Got it from Moss. John On 24 Apr, 2008, at 6:35 PM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Good day listers: > Has anyone used one of the newer ball-valve petcocks for the drain > petcock in the side of the TR2/4 block? Wondering if a ball-valve can > be sourced for this application? The threads look like 1/2" std. pipe > threads, but I gather that the valve body has to seal against the > block with a gasket or "O" ring. Haven't found anything that might > work. > The original petcock on my block has pretty well had it with the > spring corroding to nothingness. Thought that a ball valve might be a > good substitution. > Thanks in advance for any advice. > > Angelo Graham > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From 59tr3driver at gmail.com Thu Apr 24 23:14:23 2008 From: 59tr3driver at gmail.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 01:14:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 2/4 block drain petcock In-Reply-To: <200804250136.m3P1ai9J018703@smtp2.execulink.net> References: <200804250136.m3P1ai9J018703@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: > The original petcock on my block has pretty well had it with > the spring corroding to nothingness. I found it fairly easy to source a spring from the junk box, and cut it to length with a Dremel cutoff tool. I also lapped the tapered part of the valve into the body a bit with rubbing compound, then cleaned and lubricated it with silicone valve stem grease (didn't have any stopcock grease on hand). Smeared some silicone on the new spring as a preservative, too. Then a new flat washer and cotter pin completed the overhaul. The result looked original and worked great for many years (probably still works but I haven't tried it since the car got wrecked). Randall From twakeman at razzolink.com Fri Apr 25 07:51:23 2008 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 06:51:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Head In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4811E1DB.90109@razzolink.com> Lee&John Howard wrote: > Does anyone know the stock thickness of the head? Mine, after valve job and > light surfacing and who knows what > else over its long life, measures 3.305 inches. I don't see this particular > spec in Bentley's. > You obviously missed my web site. http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/FAQ_heads.htm An unshaved high port Triumph head is 3.330" tall. Teriann From pete_groh at yahoo.com Fri Apr 25 08:03:11 2008 From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 07:03:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Spring Carisle PA, TR2 front apron + TR3 apron Message-ID: <686475.51308.qm@web36803.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I was at the show yesterday in Carisle PA. I stopped by and talked to Tom, BritishMiles out of PA. His space number is F102 - 104. He is next to the Grand Stands, eating area. He had two front aprons for sale, one small mouth, with the chrome top and bottom pieces on same, and also a TR3 large mouth. I did not ask the price of same. NFI. If you know of a car owner looking for the aprons, can contact me off the list and will provide add'l information to contact he by phone. Tom was the only vendor at the show with British parts, had large trunk with other parts for MG's TR's etc. In the 4 Sale area, I did see a 1956 Nash Metropolitan Hdtp for $7,900.00. Did not see any TR's or MG's the day i was at the show. You will also find car owners bringing cars to the area, sell outside along parking spot near the show. Best regards Pete Groh (KeyGuy) Ellicott City MD ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Apr 25 10:27:33 2008 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 12:27:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Of all the gall... In-Reply-To: <026201c8a64f$610cb8b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <026201c8a64f$610cb8b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <6fa72a770804250927l585863eck279ee00b5a7bf182@mail.gmail.com> > When rubbing a 'ladies panty hose' over the flared ends of my new SS brake > lines they often snag on the face of the flare. I hope she was not still wearing them!!! should not be an issue as long as the flare is not cracked along the face. From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Apr 25 13:17:50 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 15:17:50 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 201 Message-ID: In a message dated 4/25/2008 12:02:39 PM Central Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: > Does anyone have a spare l.h. (drivers side) trailing arm assy. and a > sliding > axle & slip joint assy available or where I might find these parts? > It is a '71 TR6 and the one I have is damage beyond repair. > Ibsen > IBSEN! how soon do you need the trailing arm and axle? If it is right away, I might be able to locate for you. Otherwise, I have some in assembly and very little time. Joe Alexander From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Apr 25 13:21:16 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 15:21:16 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 201 Message-ID: Does anyone know the stock thickness of the head? Mine, after valve job and light surfacing and who knows what else over its long life, measures 3.305 inches. I don't see this particular spec in Bentley's. Thanks John Howard > leejohn7 at gmail.com OEM Head Thickness is 3.330....verify with Teri Ann Wakeman's Data on Heads...very comprehensive study. Joe A From L1J1S at aol.com Fri Apr 25 18:39:34 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 20:39:34 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3-a bow Message-ID: to the list. today i mounted the bow in my tr3. in addition i put the webbing on both sides. i just don't know if it sits right. i took two measurements. a) from the tenax fastner that secures the plate and ribbon to the rear scuttle plate to the middle of the screw in the first rib of the bow measures 14 1/2 ". b) from the key hole in the door handle (straight up, vertically) to the last bow on the curve part (closes to the windshield) measures 32 1/2 ". can anyone tell me if i am on the money or ,,,,,,,,. larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From L1J1S at aol.com Fri Apr 25 18:46:31 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 20:46:31 EDT Subject: [TR] another note for the tr3 bow Message-ID: list, i forgot to mentioned that the convertable top has yet to be installed. larry **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Apr 25 21:11:28 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 23:11:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] SAE or British fittings. Message-ID: <029201c8a74b$38d702e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hi, What happens if you use a Male British Fitting in a device intended for a Male SAE fitting? (My thinking is that it is ok, however, the opposite (Using a Male SAE Fitting) in a device intended for a male British Fitting means that the flare proably never seats or tightens properly. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 374 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Apr 26 05:05:14 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 07:05:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] SAE or British fittings. References: <029201c8a74b$38d702e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <001e01c8a78d$6743e7f0$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5> You get two different fittings separated by a common language. ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Friday, April 25, 2008 11:11 PM Subject: [TR] SAE or British fittings. > Hi, > What happens if you use a Male British Fitting in a device intended for a > Male > SAE fitting? (My thinking is that it is ok, however, the opposite (Using > a > Male SAE Fitting) in a device intended for a male British Fitting means > that > the flare proably never seats or tightens properly. > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. > It has removed 374 spam emails to date. > Paying users do not have this message in their emails. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jerryvv at roadrunner.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1398 - Release Date: 4/25/2008 > 2:31 PM From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sat Apr 26 05:28:11 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 07:28:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Window Sticker Message-ID: <481311CB.3070503@earthlink.net> Does anyone have an original TR6 (1972 would be great) window sticker they would be willing to make a really good scan of for me? I'd like to put it into PDF and fill in my own data. Thanks, Joe 72 TR6 From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Sat Apr 26 05:53:21 2008 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 07:53:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Window Sticker In-Reply-To: <481311CB.3070503@earthlink.net> References: <481311CB.3070503@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20080426075246.042aeaa8@216.7.163.243> Joe, If you can't find a '72, let me know... I have a '76 that I would be happy to scan for you. - Aldwyn At 07:28 AM 4/26/2008, Joe Burlein wrote: >Does anyone have an original TR6 (1972 would be great) window sticker >they would be willing to make a really good scan of for me? I'd like to >put it into PDF and fill in my own data. > >Thanks, > >Joe >72 TR6 >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as aldwyn at sylvancircle.org > >http://www.team.net/archive From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Apr 26 07:06:18 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 08:06:18 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Window Sticker Message-ID: <9342989.2314791209215178416.JavaMail.root@vms064.mailsrvcs.net> Joe, I have a 1972 Triumph TR6 original window sticker as well as an option sheet from the same. It is mounted in a frame. If you can wait, I will get it out and scan it into a file for you. Let me know. Craig Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 From: Joe Burlein Date: 2008/04/26 Sat AM 06:28:11 CDT To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] TR6 Window Sticker Does anyone have an original TR6 (1972 would be great) window sticker they would be willing to make a really good scan of for me? I'd like to put it into PDF and fill in my own data. Thanks, Joe 72 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From twakeman at razzolink.com Sat Apr 26 07:47:40 2008 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 06:47:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] SAE or British fittings. In-Reply-To: <001e01c8a78d$6743e7f0$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5> References: <029201c8a74b$38d702e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <001e01c8a78d$6743e7f0$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <4813327C.1010803@razzolink.com> > What happens if you use a Male British Fitting in a device intended for a > Male SAE fitting? The flair anchors OK but the fittings are joined by just a couple threads. The British male thread has a long smooth nose to help align the threads whereas the US fittings has a short nose & threads. The UK make fitting flair is almost seated before the threads are engaged. For the sake of those around your vehicle, please don't mix brake fitting standards. Anyone should be freely entitled to pursue their own Darwin award as long as they leave bystanders out of their pursuit. Teriann From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 26 08:13:33 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 09:13:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] possilbe gt6 in junkyard in Texas References: <008201c872be$b05592d0$dbd70c47@alan> <003201c872c2$72a1d710$54f30818@rolofson> Message-ID: <000e01c8a7a7$b7c90240$8115a8c0@garage.local> for those of you who might be interested and also in north/central texas (which yes, i know, eliminates 98% of you, so i apologize) my son is driving to austin this morning. he just reported what he thought was a rusty gt6 in a junkyard on 35S around exit 343 unconfirmed . . . From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Apr 26 09:02:35 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 08:02:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3-a bow In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here are the instructions that came with my Amco top years ago -- but I would only consider them a starting point. For a good fit you almost have to do some trial and error as I think there are variations among top manufacturers, esp where that seam that corresponds with the rearmost rib ends up sitting. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/top-webbing.GIF Some leave that rear bow unattached to the webbing to make it easier to erect a tight top, this also simplifies the placement as it becomes somewhat adjustable. I finally did mine using lengths of nylon rope/cord that I looped around the bows for multiple trial & error fits until I got what I wanted, then measured and installed the webbing. I think you want the bows to be a little bit high so they get pulled down (and the webbing pulled taut) as you pop the 'knee' back to fully install the top. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, April 25, 2008 5:39 PM Subject: [TR] tr3-a bow >> can anyone tell me if i am on the money or ,,,,,,,,. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Apr 26 14:32:15 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 14:32:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] SAE or British fittings. In-Reply-To: <029201c8a74b$38d702e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <029201c8a74b$38d702e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <4813914F.6030508@tscusa.org> dorpaul wrote: > Hi, > What happens if you use a Male British Fitting in a device intended for a Male > SAE fitting? (My thinking is that it is ok, however, the opposite (Using a > Male SAE Fitting) in a device intended for a male British Fitting means that > the flare proably never seats or tightens properly. > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 > > > Ah, Paul, Please clarify the reason for your question - Did Classic Tube make up brake lines the flare nuts using SAE and not UNC? If so, call them Monday and get them to fix the problem, they have the correct UNC fittings or will be able to sort it out with you on the phone. The guys are always eager to help. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Apr 26 15:18:45 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 21:18:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer Message-ID: <042620082118.21120.48139C35000B75CB0000528022155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Hello, all. My wife bought me a pressure washer from Home Depot this Christmas. Don't know of much use for it, but rather than return it, does it do well cleaning wire wheels, so as to do away with the Simple Green, stiff brush, and aching muscles? I supposed I could do the engine bay and so on too.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (Inspected and on the road at last!) New Hampshire From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Apr 26 15:24:40 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 16:24:40 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] No longer available part request Message-ID: <13048382.2597651209245080226.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net> To the list, As I was cleaning my 1972 Triumph TR6 today for my car club's show tomorrow (BRG in Alexandria, VA) I found that my driver's rear lens (brake lamp lense) has broken and fallen off! I want to replace it with a marked Lucas part. These are NLA. TRF part number is LU54585937. No Lucas marks on these. If anyone has this available, please email me. I would pay any reasonable cost and shipping, I only need that one piece. Normally I would just order from TRF and be done with it, but the car is very original so I thought I would ask the list first. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance. Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 Viennna, VA From DLylis at aol.com Sat Apr 26 15:33:12 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 17:33:12 EDT Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer Message-ID: If your wife bought it for you, I am sure that she has some project in mind. Ask her what it is for. Yes it does clean wire wheels pretty nicely but you have to use "wheel cleaner" to loosen the brake dust, et al. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Apr 26 15:46:02 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 14:46:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer In-Reply-To: <042620082118.21120.48139C35000B75CB0000528022155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <042620082118.21120.48139C35000B75CB0000528022155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: Terry I use mine to clean my wire wheels!! Got, I do not know how many years of "goop" off. And it requided very little effort. On 26 Apr, 2008, at 2:18 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Hello, all. > > My wife bought me a pressure washer from Home Depot this Christmas. > Don't know of much use for it, but rather than return it, does it do > well cleaning wire wheels, so as to do away with the Simple Green, > stiff brush, and aching muscles? I supposed I could do the engine > bay and so on too.... John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Apr 26 15:54:51 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 17:54:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer In-Reply-To: <042620082118.21120.48139C35000B75CB0000528022155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <042620082118.21120.48139C35000B75CB0000528022155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <009a01c8a7e8$294c59e0$210110ac@bobspc> Terry, Maybe she's hinting that she wants the house, sidewalk, driveway, deck......etc....all power washed! Oh yea....and it does a pretty good job on super grungy greasy stuff too. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 5:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer Hello, all. My wife bought me a pressure washer from Home Depot this Christmas. Don't know of much use for it, but rather than return it, does it do well cleaning wire wheels, so as to do away with the Simple Green, stiff brush, and aching muscles? I supposed I could do the engine bay and so on too.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (Inspected and on the road at last!) New Hampshire This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1399 - Release Date: 4/26/2008 2:17 PM From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 26 16:06:13 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 15:06:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer In-Reply-To: <009a01c8a7e8$294c59e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <464539.9589.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com> be careful with a power washer. there was an article some time back about how a power washer can within seconds permanently damage tires, without it showing Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: Terry, Maybe she's hinting that she wants the house, sidewalk, driveway, deck......etc....all power washed! Oh yea....and it does a pretty good job on super grungy greasy stuff too. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 5:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer Hello, all. My wife bought me a pressure washer from Home Depot this Christmas. Don't know of much use for it, but rather than return it, does it do well cleaning wire wheels, so as to do away with the Simple Green, stiff brush, and aching muscles? I supposed I could do the engine bay and so on too.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (Inspected and on the road at last!) New Hampshire This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org From DLylis at aol.com Sat Apr 26 21:27:18 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 23:27:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer Message-ID: In a message dated 4/26/2008 4:55:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Oh yea....and it does a pretty good job on super grungy greasy stuff too. I can confirm. I dragged my 3A chassis out into the driveway and had at it with the pressure washer. Man, the grease just flew off and left it ready for final cleaning. As I stood back to admire my accomplishments I noticed the (formerly) white garage door. I found it odd that the pressure washer removed the grunge from the chassis nicely, but wouldn't touch the same grunge on the garage door! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From thomas309 at aol.com Sat Apr 26 22:10:03 2008 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 00:10:03 EDT Subject: [TR] TR 6 Sighting Message-ID: On Sat, 4-26, at @ 7pm. s/b Rt 111 (Main St) Trumbull Ct., just south of the Merritt Parkway. Looked to be a tan, TR6 with the top down, having fun...anyone here? **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 27 07:49:48 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 09:49:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] SAE or British fittings. Message-ID: <003401c8a86d$8fbed8d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> TeriAnn, Thank you for answering my question! I only plan to do this while the car is up on a rack. Paul > What happens if you use a Male British Fitting in a device intended for a > Male SAE fitting? The flair anchors OK but the fittings are joined by just a couple threads. The British male thread has a long smooth nose to help align the threads whereas the US fittings has a short nose & threads. The UK make fitting flair is almost seated before the threads are engaged. For the sake of those around your vehicle, please don't mix brake fitting standards. Anyone should be freely entitled to pursue their own Darwin award as long as they leave bystanders out of their pursuit. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 379 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Apr 27 08:18:44 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 14:18:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer In-Reply-To: <009a01c8a7e8$294c59e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <042620082118.21120.48139C35000B75CB0000528022155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> <009a01c8a7e8$294c59e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: I got one from the Home Depot last Jan. I have cleaned the garage floor, sidewalks, driveway, and the engine in my van. It works fairly well. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself wherever you are. Mobilize! http://www.gowindowslive.com/Mobile/Landing/Messenger/Default.aspx?Locale=en- US?ocid=TAG_APRIL From guy at genfiniti.com Sun Apr 27 16:26:35 2008 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 17:26:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Project Update Message-ID: <000301c8a8b5$c17c60c0$44752240$@com> Greetings All, It's been a slow time on the project. The last major bit of work I was able to do was back in June of 2007. It was then that I picked up the rebuilt gearbox and overdrive from the shop (on 6/23/2007) and completed a test-assembly of the 4 "wings" to the dolly-mounted body tub. This taught me a lot about the little nuances that I will experience when I put them on for keeps. Next step is to finish working out all the minor dents in the sheet metal, drill through the sills for the eventual drainage tubes (so that rain water can drain from the scuttle to the road, as opposed to directly into the body itself) and send all the body parts off to Metal Rehab for stripping. I think I've also got my painter selected. Right now I'm in a holding pattern while I build up to successfully complete the body work. During this "down time" I've replaced the fan extension in expectation of an electric fan, and also upgraded to alloy steering rack mounts. My body plan calls for having all the dents worked out then cleaned to bare metal. I'll apply the primer and prep for paint. Once I'm done with it, I'll take the parts over to the painter and have them do any additional work they might notice, and lay the paint. Still not decided if I will take over the body parts as individuals or pre-assembled. I see pros and cons with both approaches, and would appreciate hearing some success and/or failure stories with each option. Finally, with the drive train fully mounted on the chassis, I have reach milestone number two! However, I purposely did not fit the manifolds, thinking they might possibly interfere with the mounting of the body tub to the chassis itself. I will add those once the body tub is on. As always, updates are on the web site with pics, and a heartfelt thanks to everyone for their gracious help and support. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins Kennedale, Texas 1965 Triumph TR4A (CTC 63569LO) http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 27 16:53:26 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 18:53:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] seeking brake knowledge Message-ID: <004d01c8a8b9$819daeb0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Sorry for 'scaring' the list. If (hypothetical only) there is a rear wheel cylinder, whose brake line fitting, fails to tighten sufficiently (so as to slowly leak brake fluid).. Will this necessarily empty the brake fluid's reservoir? If so, will it leak out over several months (while the car is up on a rack), regardless of whether the brake pedal is up or down? (The pedal isn't really hooked up yet). The car is unoperational. Please cut me some slack. Thanks, Paul Dorsey -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 379 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Apr 27 16:53:56 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 18:53:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] that tin whistle Message-ID: <4814CBC4.19401.520CFC5@localhost> There is a point to this title. A little child's poem my dad used to joke about went like this: I had a wooden whistle but it wouldn' whistle So I bought a tin whistle now I tin whistle. You see, I had a wooden starter but it wouldn't start. So I bought a new starter and told myself now I tin start. It started the Spitfire exactly once. Once only. Once was the the number of times it started the Spitfire, not twice, nor any more than once nor less, but once. Now it's wooden again. I put an ohmmeter on it and it read infinite. A neighbor suggested hitting it with a hammer, so I tapped it a few times and the ohmage read out as non-infinite. (Perhaps I must pay more 'ohmage to Lucas, Prince of Darkness.) Even after I pulled it from the car it wooden spin when I applied battery directly to the input. (Yes, very carefully.) And it read infinite again. Spinning the shaft by hand didn't change that critical state. It seems to be dead. At this rate I'm glad it didn't start the car exactly twice, or I'd be stuck somewhere. The only stuckness I have to worry about at the moment is that it is stuck in the driveway, blocking the GT6 that is now stuck in the garage. A week or so ago Fred Thomas kindly suggested I and the car needed a beer, and not a "lite" one. Today I tried India Brown Ale from Dogfish Head Brewery. Wow. Not for the faint-of-heart, surely not lite by any spelling. It softened the trauma for sure. But the starter still wooden start. This story is getting old. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Apr 27 17:00:57 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 19:00:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] seeking brake knowledge In-Reply-To: <004d01c8a8b9$819daeb0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <4814CD69.23161.5273B44@localhost> On 27 Apr 2008 at 18:53, dorpaul wrote: > If (hypothetical only) there is a rear wheel cylinder, whose brake line > fitting, fails to tighten sufficiently (so as to slowly leak brake fluid).. > Will this necessarily empty the brake fluid's reservoir? Yo, Paul. It will eventually drain the reservoir but that isn't the big problem. If it has a leak any more than the tinniest, tinniest trickle it won't hold much pressure. This means that any other wheel on the same hydraulic line won't either. So you won't be getting much braking from it. If it's on the rear you'll get braking from the front, which is where most braking happens anyway, until you ever have a problem on the front such as a broken hose. When that happens you will catastrophically discover that you don't have any braking on the rear either. You are much better off fixing that leak! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Apr 27 16:49:53 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 18:49:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Project Update In-Reply-To: <000301c8a8b5$c17c60c0$44752240$@com> References: <000301c8a8b5$c17c60c0$44752240$@com> Message-ID: <200804271849.53716.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 27 April 2008 06:26 pm, Guy D. Huggins wrote: > Greetings All, > > Finally, with the drive train fully mounted on the chassis, I have reach > milestone number two! However, I purposely did not fit the manifolds, > thinking they might possibly interfere with the mounting of the body tub to > the chassis itself. I will add those once the body tub is on. > > As always, updates are on the web site with pics, and a heartfelt thanks to > everyone for their gracious help and support. > > > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > > Guy, It is ok to mount the manifolds and even the head pipe, there will be plenty of room to fit the tub. But dont install the carbs as they will make it almost impossible. On my TR4 project, I had every thing installed on the engine, including the radiator but not the carbs and the tub fit just fine. Bob From jmitch at snet.net Sun Apr 27 18:38:55 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 20:38:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alignment Specs Message-ID: <48151C9F.4060304@snet.net> I need to take the TR6 in for alignment as it appears I have excessive toe in. The right front wheel seems to be scrubbing the pavement on full left turns. I have 205-70-15" tires on wire wheels and also have installed Goodparts rear trailing arm adjusters. What specs should I ask for for front toe-in and rear camber angle. The numbers in Bentley are for the car with 2 passengers on board and it won't be that way when it gets aligned. Any advice would be appreciated. John Mitchell 76 TR6 From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Apr 27 18:59:19 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 20:59:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Options Sheets and Window Stickers Message-ID: <48152167.2010701@earthlink.net> Thanks to Chip and Craig for the window sticker pdfs. I am going to attempt use Paintshop/ Adobe and remove the typewritten fields and make a blank window sticker. If it works out, I'll send it out to anyone who wants one. However, now I am curious. Does anyone else have any other TR/Triumph window stickers or the pricing sheets for other years or cars?! I think it would be nice to get pdfs of them and get them posted out on the net. Thanks, Joe From jmitch at snet.net Sun Apr 27 19:01:32 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:01:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alignment specs Message-ID: <481521EC.2050207@snet.net> Actually I should have said I have excessive toe-out. I measure about 5 degree toe out on my Manco gauge. JM I need to take the TR6 in for alignment as it appears I have excessive toe in. The right front wheel seems to be scrubbing the pavement on full left turns. I have 205-70-15" tires on wire wheels and also have installed Goodparts rear trailing arm adjusters. What specs should I ask for for front toe-in and rear camber angle. The numbers in Bentley are for the car with 2 passengers on board and it won't be that way when it gets aligned. Any advice would be appreciated. John Mitchell 76 TR6 _______________________________________________ From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Apr 27 19:12:01 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:12:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Raising compression Message-ID: <00b301c8a8cc$dd11b8a0$1905a942@alan> I know this was mentioned ahile ago , but I can't find it. I have a 76 motor, and I want to raise the compression to 9 to 1. How much would the head need to be milled? thanks Al Salvatore From jmitch at snet.net Sun Apr 27 20:21:47 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 22:21:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Alignment specs In-Reply-To: <3867-48152BA7-2710@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> References: <3867-48152BA7-2710@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <481534BB.2030906@snet.net> Actually, it does track nice and straight, so if I'm careful with the number of turns on each tie-rod, I can probably do it myself. I calculate that 2 degrees in would be in spec. I've got the rear camber at 0 degrees, thinking that it will go slightly negative with weight on board. I put an old Michelin redline on that corner and the scrubbing sound goes away, which I attribute to the much smaller contact patch. Thanks for the advice. John Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > John M.----Having the rear adjusters makes this job easy. You can use a > spirit level against a stick of 2x2, against the wheel rim. (Spin the > rim to be sure it's reasonably true. If you raise the rear of the car to > check the rim [without the beauty trim ring], then you must roll the car > back, then forward for approx. six feet to settle the suspension) Adjust > the wheel camber to get the bubble level,with no one in the car. This is > not a critical degree, as noted with the large +/- tolerances in the > Bentley. > > Also, since you have the toe adjusting tool, you can do this yourself, > if you choose. Set the front wheels to have between 1/16 1/8 inch toe > in. > > Dick > > Actually I should have said I have excessive toe-out. I > measure about 5 degree toe out on my Manco gauge. JM > I need to take the TR6 in for alignment as it appears I have > excessive toe in. The right front wheel seems to be scrubbing the > pavement on full left turns. I have 205-70-15" tires on wire wheels and > also have installed Goodparts rear trailing arm adjusters. What specs > should I ask for for front toe-in and rear camber angle. The numbers in > Bentley are for the car with 2 passengers on board and it won't be that > way when it gets aligned. Any advice would be appreciated. John > Mitchell 76 TR6 > ______________________________________________ > ______________________________________ From timipurdy at citlink.net Sun Apr 27 20:48:11 2008 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 19:48:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 wheel bearings? References: <002801c8a108$01bdded0$01fea8c0@Lahontan> <004001c8a165$a98391c0$599af444@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <000a01c8a8da$4fb3f5f0$01fea8c0@Lahontan> I finally found some one to examine, that I trust. Will keep you posted as of the results ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Marr" To: "Tim I. Purdy" ; Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 8:05 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 wheel bearings? > It could be your differential. Does the whine diminish when you take your > foot off the gas? Does it diminish while you are cruising on the freeway? > Is it more of a howl than a whine? Does the pitch change with vehicle > speed, rather than engine speed? Does it seem to come from the rear of > the car? If yes to all of these, I would suspect the differential, > specifically the ring gear and pinion. > > Mike > > > >> For awhile, a few months, I have been experiencing a obnoxious whirring >> sound, >> and am not sure where it originates. When the engine idles there is no >> noise.. Once accelerating, from first to second all is well. The sound , >> kind >> of high pitch I guess, makes its presence, though not too pronounce, >> shift to >> third and later to fourth, its extremely loud. It makes one thinks >> everything >> dry. The other evening jacked up the car, checked the rear axle, etc, >> all oil >> levels full. Since when I purchased the car in 2003, I have never >> examined >> the wheel bearings, my next project. Could this be the source of this >> noise, >> or is it something else? Another new territory for me. I am so thankful >> to >> have a forum like this. From triumphs at consolidated.net Sun Apr 27 21:15:02 2008 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 22:15:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] part needed TR3 Message-ID: I am looking for an old, used or even broken TR3 tach cable. Actually, all I really need is the hold down nut and ferrule on the distributor pedestal end of that cable. (And maybe three or 4 inches of that end of the cable itself, if its no big deal) Anyone who can help, please contact me off list. Thank Ken Gano No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1400 - Release Date: 4/27/2008 9:39 AM From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 27 21:18:58 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 23:18:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] outtie flares and need an rpv valve ? Message-ID: <000801c8a8de$99911f50$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> My TR3 is months awazy from ready. I have, however, been hooking up brake stuff that I rebuilt several years ago to see if it works! I've been using old brake line for these tests, and 'trial' temporary fittings. My new SS brake lines still adorn the spare bedroom. One section of it, the piece going from the M/C down to the 5-way, has a different flare on it. I guess you could describe both of the flares on this line as 'outies' whereas all the other brake-line flares are 'innies'. (This description is borrowed from people's 'naval's'.) The innie looks like a tiny funnel. an outie is the opposite like a 'rounded bottom'. This change seems odd. I know that the 5-way end of this particular brake line is suppose to go to a tall gray RPV valve. I can't find it!! I'll continue looking, but, if anyone has a spare then, I'll pay for it. I've heard that although the RPV valve's guts are taken out, it's got slightly different threads so it's still essential to use it, otherwise, a leak still occurs. Can someone advise? Thanks, Paul Dorsey, 60 TR3 I know it has been said before From jat1127 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 28 07:47:18 2008 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 09:47:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumps seen near Albany/Troy NY Message-ID: Listers, On NY RT 66 near Sand Lake NY I have seen a "pile" of Triumphs. Several Heralds a Mayflower and a Spitfire/GT6. Someone on the list? Contact me off list if more info is needed. John John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Back to work after babyhow do you know when youre ready? http://lifestyle.msn.com/familyandparenting/articleNW.aspx?cp-documentid=5797 498&ocid=T067MSN40A0701A From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Mon Apr 28 08:07:14 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 07:07:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <023401c8a939$292c53a0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Terry, You didn't mention the pressure rating of this great tool, but I know I would *NEVER* use my pressure washer to clean my 4a. At 2800 PSI, my gas powered PW can cut wood, slice toes, and even strip paint (works great on a peeling deck!), so just image what it would do to tires, thin sheet metal, and trim held on with lots of hope. You're better off hiring the neighborhood car-nut kid to do the job if you find it too tedious. BTW, a PW is one of the greatest inventions of all time. After I bought mine, I used it for cleaning the wonderful moss and mold that grows on everything here in the great NorthWest. My wife has now made this *her* most favorite tool and uses it whenever something needs to be cleaned around the house - except the cars! :-) Brian '67 TR4a with the top down ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 21:18:45 +0000 From: terryrs at comcast.net Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <042620082118.21120.48139C35000B75CB0000528022155538949C9D979D9D0A9B at comcast .net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello, all. My wife bought me a pressure washer from Home Depot this Christmas. Don't know of much use for it, but rather than return it, does it do well cleaning wire wheels, so as to do away with the Simple Green, stiff brush, and aching muscles? I supposed I could do the engine bay and so on too.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (Inspected and on the road at last!) New Hampshire From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Apr 28 08:34:53 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 07:34:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet! Message-ID: Today is April 28 and this is not a trick email. We have about 146 entries for the UBSCC All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet on May 18th. The Yolo County Fairgrounds is calling for you to enter your car! We don't have enough cars to set classes yet, so we need you to go to the club web site and fill out a form. Remember, we need at least 3 cars in each class. We have decided to give out 3 trophies this year instead of 2 plus a ribbon, so get your car preregistered! Registration ends MAY 1, which is Thursday of this week. Go here to register for the show: http://ubscc.org/CarShow.htm . Email Mac Sawhill or Rich Thomas if you can help with parking. Mac sawhill at att.net Rich richbthomas at comcast.net Email Jerry if you live close enough to the fairgrounds to help with some scouting activities. Or if you would like to volunteer for some other area. Jerry grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net If you are a member of any of the British Car Email lists: Please send out a reminder to register for the show to your list. This often gets the attention of other clubs and people from other states. Jerry Costanzo 916 652 4537 Chairman of the All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Apr 28 08:34:53 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 07:34:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet! Message-ID: Today is April 28 and this is not a trick email. We have about 146 entries for the UBSCC All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet on May 18th. The Yolo County Fairgrounds is calling for you to enter your car! We don't have enough cars to set classes yet, so we need you to go to the club web site and fill out a form. Remember, we need at least 3 cars in each class. We have decided to give out 3 trophies this year instead of 2 plus a ribbon, so get your car preregistered! Registration ends MAY 1, which is Thursday of this week. Go here to register for the show: http://ubscc.org/CarShow.htm . Email Mac Sawhill or Rich Thomas if you can help with parking. Mac sawhill at att.net Rich richbthomas at comcast.net Email Jerry if you live close enough to the fairgrounds to help with some scouting activities. Or if you would like to volunteer for some other area. Jerry grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net If you are a member of any of the British Car Email lists: Please send out a reminder to register for the show to your list. This often gets the attention of other clubs and people from other states. Jerry Costanzo 916 652 4537 Chairman of the All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 28 08:37:14 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 14:37:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] Alignment specs In-Reply-To: <481521EC.2050207@snet.net> References: <481521EC.2050207@snet.net> Message-ID: what is a Manco guage? Best regards, Tom > Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:01:32 -0400 > From: jmitch at snet.net > To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Alignment specs > > Actually I should have said I have excessive toe-out. I measure about 5 degree toe out on my Manco gauge. JM > > > I need to take the TR6 in for alignment as it appears I have > excessive toe in. The right front wheel seems to be scrubbing the > pavement on full left turns. I have 205-70-15" tires on wire wheels and > also have installed Goodparts rear trailing arm adjusters. What specs > should I ask for for front toe-in and rear camber angle. The numbers in > Bentley are for the car with 2 passengers on board and it won't be that > way when it gets aligned. Any advice would be appreciated. John > Mitchell 76 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Make i'm yours. Create a custom banner to support your cause. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Contribute/Default.aspx?source=TXT_TAGHM_MSN_ Make_IM_Yours From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Apr 28 08:39:24 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:39:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer References: <023401c8a939$292c53a0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <003e01c8a93d$a78639b0$861b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Brian, if you adjust your nozzle to "spray" it is a great car washer, I hace a 2800 psi and can adjust not only the spray pattern but also the water pressure out put according to what use "she" wants. :) :) "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at roadrunner.com> To: Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 10:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer > Terry, > > You didn't mention the pressure rating of this great tool, but I know I > would *NEVER* use my pressure washer to clean my 4a. At 2800 PSI, my gas > powered PW can cut wood, slice toes, and even strip paint (works great on > a > peeling deck!), so just image what it would do to tires, thin sheet metal, > and trim held on with lots of hope. You're better off hiring the > neighborhood car-nut kid to do the job if you find it too tedious. > > BTW, a PW is one of the greatest inventions of all time. After I bought > mine, I used it for cleaning the wonderful moss and mold that grows on > everything here in the great NorthWest. My wife has now made this *her* > most > favorite tool and uses it whenever something needs to be cleaned around > the > house - except the cars! :-) > > Brian > '67 TR4a with the top down > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 21:18:45 +0000 > From: terryrs at comcast.net > Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > > <042620082118.21120.48139C35000B75CB0000528022155538949C9D979D9D0A9B at comcast > .net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Hello, all. > > My wife bought me a pressure washer from Home Depot this Christmas. Don't > know of much use for it, but rather than return it, does it do well > cleaning > wire wheels, so as to do away with the Simple Green, stiff brush, and > aching > muscles? I supposed I could do the engine bay and so on too.... > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (Inspected and on the road at last!) > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Apr 28 08:44:30 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:44:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumps seen near Albany/Troy NY In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CA7755804D48A1-9C4-66@webmail-db03.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: john taylor Listers, On NY RT 66 near Sand Lake NY I have seen a "pile" of Triumphs. Several Heralds a Mayflower and a Spitfire/GT6. Someone on the list? ==AM== Aack! Busted after all these years of relative obscurity! :-) 'Tis yours truly. But I beg to differ with your description of a "pile": the only pile is a stack of Spitfire and GT6 chassis temporarily resting atop the remains of a TR3A! ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From dncullig at us.ibm.com Mon Apr 28 08:51:44 2008 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:51:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumps (sic) seen near Albany/Troy NY Message-ID: John Taylor wrote: >On NY RT 66 near Sand Lake NY I have seen a "pile" of Triumphs. Several >Heralds a Mayflower and a Spitfire/GT6. >Someone on the list? That's Andy Mace territory... Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH From ebartle at hbci.com Mon Apr 28 09:52:39 2008 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:52:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Carbs leaking gas Message-ID: <20080428105239.6zdi1da94owg4880@mail.hbci.com> A few weeks ago someone posted information on leaking SU carbs. Could someone send me that information? I have leaks Eric From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 28 09:55:14 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 11:55:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Carbs leaking gas References: <20080428105239.6zdi1da94owg4880@mail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <026201c8a948$3ff63a60$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hi Eric, Where specifically do you have leaks. When I posted it was due to leaks where the bowl attaches to the carb body. If this is your problem, I can probably share some morsels of wisdom. Please advise. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A (carbs use to leak) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Bartleson" To: Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 11:52 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 Carbs leaking gas > A few weeks ago someone posted information on leaking SU carbs. > Could someone send me that information? I have leaks > > Eric From jmitch at snet.net Mon Apr 28 09:59:56 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 11:59:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alignment specs-now Manco toe in gauge Message-ID: <4815F47C.7020203@snet.net> A Manco gauge is a very low tech way of measuring toe-in, by showing the difference in width between the rear of the front tires and the front of the front tires. It will not show whether the wheels are tracking straight ahead. That can be determined if the car is pulling one direction or the other. The PDF below shows it being used on a Toro workman and includes the directions for it's use. Bob, your welcome to use it whenever you want it. I can drop it up to you next weekend if you'd like. Golf would be good too:) John http://www.toro.com/customercare/commercial/bulletins/vehicles/pdf/12-05.pdf From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Apr 28 11:17:07 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:17:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alignment specs In-Reply-To: References: <481521EC.2050207@snet.net> Message-ID: <8D83D4FB943345F48F5A732B2B538EED@GeoPC> http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0610_ford_mustang_alignment/tools.html Though I just use a spirit level and a 6 foot folding carpenters rule. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: "John Mitchell" ; "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 7:37 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Alignment specs > what is a Manco guage? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 28 12:47:12 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 11:47:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alignment specs-now Manco toe in gauge In-Reply-To: <4815F47C.7020203@snet.net> Message-ID: <20080428184712.JVBQ1070.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > A Manco gauge is a very low tech way of measuring toe-in, by > showing the difference in width between the rear of the front > tires and the front of the front tires. It will not show > whether the wheels are tracking straight ahead. Or whether the tires are exactly the same width at all points; which mine almost always are not. Also affected by wheel or tire runout. You can do a better job of checking toe-in with some wood scraps and a pocket knife (which is what I use). Randall From FGFO1 at aol.com Mon Apr 28 14:31:59 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 16:31:59 EDT Subject: [TR] All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet! Message-ID: For those of use geographically challenged, where might the Yolo County fairgrounds be located? thanks Frank Fisher **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 28 15:28:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 14:28:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080428212807.ZXVO19888.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > For those of use geographically challenged, where might the > Yolo County fairgrounds be located? Well, since the event is being hosted by the United British Sports Car Club of Sacramento, CA; one might reasonably assume that it's somewhere close to Sacramento ... http://tinyurl.com/4cownh Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 28 15:33:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 14:33:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer In-Reply-To: <023401c8a939$292c53a0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <20080428213338.UJSH11174.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > but I know I would *NEVER* use my pressure washer to clean my > 4a. At 2800 PSI, my gas powered PW can cut wood, slice toes, > and even strip paint (works great on a peeling deck!), so > just image what it would do to tires, thin sheet metal, and > trim held on with lots of hope. OTOH, I do it all the time. Just set the nozzle to medium fan, and don't hold it too close to anything fragile. And I do use the needle spray setting on my wire wheels; since they are chrome & stainless. Randall From dbh at hamengr.com Mon Apr 28 15:43:11 2008 From: dbh at hamengr.com (David B Hammond) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 14:43:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet! References: <20080428212807.ZXVO19888.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <015401c8a978$db3e6c10$0301a8c0@HOMEOFFICE> The Yolo County fairgrounds are in Woodland; N and W of sacramento; just off I5 David From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Apr 28 15:44:18 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 14:44:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Uhh ... that would be in Yolo County ... near Woodland, CA about 20 miles West of Sacramento, CA ... Sorry ... :-[ >For those of use geographically challenged, where might the Yolo County >fairgrounds be located? >thanks >Frank Fisher -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 28 17:30:02 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 16:30:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] that tin whistle In-Reply-To: <4814CBC4.19401.520CFC5@localhost> Message-ID: <20080428233003.VFHZ2106.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Once was the > the number of times it started the Spitfire, not twice, nor > any more than once nor less, but once. So five is right out ? > But the starter still wooden start. When your Daddy warned you about wooden nickels, he really meant starters. I hear good things about Ted's starters, tho mine hasn't come in yet. Likely it would get here faster if I actually ordered it ... Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Apr 28 18:18:14 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 00:18:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels and Pressure Washer Message-ID: <042920080018.22267.48166946000AABA3000056FB22155688849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Hmmmm....what I'm reading from all the responses so far is that it's perfect for the following: taking off my wheels, needle spraying the wire wheels cautious not to hit the rubber, then topcoating with a fresh coat of wheel paint from a paint bomb.... Dare I confess the reason for needing to do this is, I tried the wrong kind of cleaner on the wire wheels and blurred the paint on two wheels.... Other than that, of course, I have led a life replete with perfection in all functions, physical and mental. But then, I own a Triumph and that would be the entry qual.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 Inspected last Friday, mud season is practically over, and the car is ready to ride...except we have two days of rain scheduled and I'd still need my rainsuit to drive it even with the top up. I blame it all on Lucas because they have such a poor track record at defending themselves against frivolous anxieties, so why not? -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > but I know I would *NEVER* use my pressure washer to clean my > > 4a. At 2800 PSI, my gas powered PW can cut wood, slice toes, > > and even strip paint (works great on a peeling deck!), so > > just image what it would do to tires, thin sheet metal, and > > trim held on with lots of hope. > > OTOH, I do it all the time. Just set the nozzle to medium fan, and don't > hold it too close to anything fragile. > > And I do use the needle spray setting on my wire wheels; since they are > chrome & stainless. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Mon Apr 28 18:47:13 2008 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 19:47:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Alignment specs-now Manco toe in gauge Message-ID: > You can do a better job of checking toe-in with some wood scraps and a> pocket knife (which is what I use).> > Randall Randall, I took you idea and checked the toe-in on my car. I added tape to you list of supplied and these are the steps. First I taped several scraps together so they would reach across the front tires. I found that I had trouble holding one end to the first tire while marking the other, so I taped the knife to one end of the wood scraps. After I jammed it into the tire, I did not have any problems with it moving. Is this the same way you do it. I could have just asked how you use these items, but posting my "guess" was more fun. Please share the process. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA'63 TR3B TCF587LThat ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!See it moves! From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Apr 29 06:08:35 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 08:08:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] What are the odds!! Message-ID: <380-22008422912835271@M2W025.mail2web.com> What are the odds! I decided to adjust the valves on my Spitfire when I got home yesterday, since running the engine for the half hour drive home from work would warm it up quite nicely. It was quite hot outside, so when I got home I changed into my work on cars clothes, and got myself a Dr Pepper and went out to the garage to get started. I was taking the valve cover off, and had left one of the bolts in the hole (cause it was a little finicky, everything was hotter than, well you know the drill), and of course as I was removing the cover it went clank, clank, boink thud - Aw crap, I thoughtI started to look for it and didnt see it in the valve area, so I assumed that it must have fallen on the firewall or embedded itself in some inaccessible area on the frame somewhere since the washer for it was on the ledge in front of the windscreen. Oh well Ill find it later, so I proceeded to adjust the valves, and was ready to install the valve cover. So now I start to look in earnest for the missing bolt. Nope, not on the firewall in the mess of wiring, not under the car in the middle of the floor where it should be, nor on or in any frame members, crevices, etc. Hummmnot in the battery box either(near where the washer was). Darn it, so I sat on the tire (of which us Spitfire owners have the luxury of doing) and pondered where I the heck that darn little bolt went to. I wasnt about to button it all up without making sure that it didnt fall into the engine or something. So I reached for my Dr Pepper (sitting quietly on the only convenient flat spot nearby, the battery), and Ahhh, YECH20-50W Valvoline instead of the taste I was used to. It had actually fallen inside the tiny opening of the soda can sitting on top of the battery  wasted nearly two thirds of the can! Heck If I had a thousand tries to try and do that to win eleventy billion bucks I couldnt duplicate the feat again (unless of course I was just adjusting the valves) Anyway, I decided that my luck was all used up with that one, so no lottery for me. I finished up and went in to have dinner and think about the mystery's of life! Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From L1J1S at aol.com Tue Apr 29 06:50:50 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 08:50:50 EDT Subject: [TR] tr. od trans Message-ID: list, with regards to my tr3-a trans. it's is a od unit (factory) and the oil has been sitting in the trans. for about ten years while the car has been going thru a restoration. the tranny was rebuilt about ten years ago. the question is should i now change the oil in the tranny before i fire up the car and take her out for her maiden run? i would guess that over a period of time of non-usage the velocity of the oil can break down. also i have been advise recently to use a non-detergent tranny oil. larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Tue Apr 29 08:29:15 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:29:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Raising compression In-Reply-To: <00b301c8a8cc$dd11b8a0$1905a942@alan> References: <00b301c8a8cc$dd11b8a0$1905a942@alan> Message-ID: <9B7A2494-38B3-48AA-9FE4-0F20249EA5D6@mindspring.com> Al, this should be avoided at all costs. Raising the compression results in more power and the desire to go faster. To go faster one must push on the "go fast" pedal - that's the one on the right btw. Raised compression also makes one desirous of things like hotter cams, roller rockers (good ones that is, nevermind), fancier exhausts and such. All of these things detract from bling of which you are the king of. How about a nice landau roof? Ashford '70 TR6 On Apr 27, 2008, at 9:12 PM, Alan Salvatore wrote: > I know this was mentioned ahile ago , but I can't find it. > I have a 76 motor, and I want to raise the compression to 9 to 1. > How much would the head need to be milled? > thanks > > Al Salvatore From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Apr 29 08:43:27 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 14:43:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] tr. od trans Message-ID: <042920081443.4189.4817340F0008BA330000105D22155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> I'd change it. Petroleum gets gummy over time. On recommendations from the list over time, I run Valvoline 20-50 (non-detergent) racing oil in my TR3A A-type OD. Works great. -------------- Original message -------------- From: L1J1S at aol.com > list, with regards to my tr3-a trans. it's is a od unit (factory) and the > oil has been sitting in the trans. for about ten years while the car has been > going thru a restoration. the tranny was rebuilt about ten years ago. the > question is should i now change the oil in the tranny before i fire up the car > and take her out for her maiden run? i would guess that over a period of time of > non-usage the velocity of the oil can break down. also i have been advise > recently to use a non-detergent tranny oil. larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a > > > > **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car > listings at AOL Autos. > (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 29 09:14:00 2008 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 08:14:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Townsend, Tn. british car meet Message-ID: <714505.92193.qm@web37605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello the list. There is a British car show that takes place in Townsend, Tn. on like the 1st or 2nd Sat. in May each year. Can't remember who sponsors it. Is there anyone on the list that can tell me if it is going to happen this year and what the date is? Thanks in advance, Bryan From fishplate at charter.net Tue Apr 29 09:25:40 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 8:25:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Townsend, Tn. british car meet In-Reply-To: <714505.92193.qm@web37605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080429112540.KYU9Y.645165.root@fepweb16> ---- Bryan Loy wrote: > Hello the list. > There is a British car show that takes place in > Townsend, Tn. on like the 1st or 2nd Sat. in May each > year. Can't remember who sponsors it. Is there > anyone on the list that can tell me if it is going to > happen this year and what the date is? Try this: http://www.blountbritishcars.org/flyer.pdf Jeff Scarbrough 7 Metric Tonnes Of Rust, Ga. From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 29 10:04:32 2008 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 09:04:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Townsend, Tn. british car meet In-Reply-To: <20080429112540.KYU9Y.645165.root@fepweb16> Message-ID: <776351.93491.qm@web37601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> That's it. Anybody else going? Thanks Jeff. Bryan --- fishplate at charter.net wrote: > > ---- Bryan Loy wrote: > > Hello the list. > > There is a British car show that takes place in > > Townsend, Tn. on like the 1st or 2nd Sat. in May > > > Try this: > http://www.blountbritishcars.org/flyer.pdf > > Jeff Scarbrough > 7 Metric Tonnes Of Rust, Ga. From supertr6 at earthlink.net Tue Apr 29 13:47:42 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 15:47:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dealer vs Factory Options Message-ID: <48177B5E.606@earthlink.net> In my quest to reproduce my window sticker I am curious. The 1972 MY suggested prices for the TR6 list the hard top, overdrive, tonneau cover, wire wheels and red bank tires as the ONLY dealer options. (I assume the boot cover was standard????) So, does anyone have old price sheets for the other options? (IE: USA stripe kit, luggage rack, air conditioning, overrider bars, floor mats, AMCO console, fog/driving lights, etc.) And again, anyone who can scan (or point me to scans) of old "window stickers", "accessories, equipment and additional cost items installed by dealer" or "BL suggested retail prices" documents, please let me know! Thanks again, Joe From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Tue Apr 29 14:14:27 2008 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (aldwyn at sylvancircle.org) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 16:14:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Dealer vs Factory Options In-Reply-To: <48177B5E.606@earthlink.net> References: <48177B5E.606@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <45027.199.67.131.151.1209500067.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org> Joe, I had some other options (stripe kit, luggage rack, etc) on mine as well. If the zip file I sent you didnt work out, let me know, and I will send it again! (though they are 1976 prices) Thanks, Aldwyn > In my quest to reproduce my window sticker I am curious. The 1972 MY > suggested prices for the TR6 list the hard top, overdrive, tonneau > cover, wire wheels and red bank tires as the ONLY dealer options. (I > assume the boot cover was standard????) So, does anyone have old price > sheets for the other options? (IE: USA stripe kit, luggage rack, air > conditioning, overrider bars, floor mats, AMCO console, fog/driving > lights, etc.) > > And again, anyone who can scan (or point me to scans) of old "window > stickers", "accessories, equipment and additional cost items installed > by dealer" or "BL suggested retail prices" documents, please let me know! > > Thanks again, > > Joe > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as aldwyn at sylvancircle.org > > http://www.team.net/archive From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Apr 29 14:52:10 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 14:52:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] What are the odds!! In-Reply-To: <380-22008422912835271@M2W025.mail2web.com> References: <380-22008422912835271@M2W025.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <48178A7A.90703@tscusa.org> v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote: > What are the odds! Murphy's Law #804 states: A dropped nut, bolt, washer or screw will always roll into the most inaccessible area of the garage - or drop into your coffee cup! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Apr 29 18:05:59 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 20:05:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 to be on Ebay Message-ID: <200804292005.59919.yellowtr@adelphia.net> All, Dont let this one pass you by. TR4 on ebay in restoration. Item 220229656074 Price. only 63K I am going to go lock the garage! Bob From mathews at uga.edu Tue Apr 29 18:35:26 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 20:35:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Pressure Washers Message-ID: <20080430003457.36032187876@autox.team.net> List, One thing to remember when using any high pressure, stay away from seals, bearings, etc..anything that is not supposed to have water, etc. Pressure washers can really do a delayed hurt on the item if you are not careful...Ask me how I know! Doug From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Apr 29 19:11:52 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 21:11:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker References: <20080429202628.11429.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> <4817AF54.1050400@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <00c201c8aa5f$2d0b00d0$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Thanks Joe, the PDF reads fine into Illustrator ... Once I find a matching font, that will make it easy for anyone to create their own window stickers ... the best match I've found so far is OCR B MT. At 9pt and expanding the font width by 120%, it matches most of the characteristics of the typeface (the 4 needs a little more expansion). The "W" is the problem .... but if the entire doc is redone using that font, I doubt anyone would notice the curved "W" legs against the BL straight legs. Anyone else with any thoughts on the font in use? See http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TR-6-Window-Sticker-Blank-FONT-TEST.gif for an image of my edit of Joes super scan! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** >> >> >>> -------Original Message------- >>> From: Joe Burlein >>> Subject: Blank Window Sticker >>> Sent: Apr 29 '08 14:28 >>> Here is my first round of blanks.... From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue Apr 29 19:29:16 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 21:29:16 EDT Subject: [TR] Dealer vs Factory Options Message-ID: In a message dated 4/29/2008 3:47:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, supertr6 at earthlink.net writes: In my quest to reproduce my window sticker I am curious. The 1972 MY suggested prices for the TR6 list the hard top, overdrive, tonneau cover, wire wheels and red bank tires as the ONLY dealer options. (I assume the boot cover was standard????) So, does anyone have old price sheets for the other options? (IE: USA stripe kit, luggage rack, air conditioning, overrider bars, floor mats, AMCO console, fog/driving lights, etc.) ==AM== Although the first set of options you list could have been installed by the dealer, it would have been almost prohibitively expensive to do so for all but the tonneau cover. I'd consider them to be "factory" options. Meanwhile, I suspect that a boot cover would have been part of the "hardtop package." As for the second set you list, likely they would actually be dealer-installed. As I recall, cars on the lot or on the showroom floor with any dealer-installed items would likely sport an additional sticker listing those items and their prices. At least that's what I always remembered seeing here at the Albany, NY, area dealers back in the 1970s, especially since almost all of those items were sourced in the US by BLMC and/or their distributors. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From supertr6 at earthlink.net Tue Apr 29 20:08:36 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 22:08:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker In-Reply-To: <00c201c8aa5f$2d0b00d0$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <20080429202628.11429.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> <4817AF54.1050400@earthlink.net> <00c201c8aa5f$2d0b00d0$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <4817D4A4.6020407@earthlink.net> Wow, now that is hardcore! I was just going to use an typewriter and type it up! Joe Tony Gordon wrote: > Thanks Joe, the PDF reads fine into Illustrator ... Once I find a > matching font, that will make it easy for anyone to create their own > window stickers ... the best match I've found so far is OCR B MT. At > 9pt and expanding the font width by 120%, it matches most of the > characteristics of the typeface (the 4 needs a little more > expansion). The "W" is the problem .... but if the entire doc is > redone using that font, I doubt anyone would notice the curved "W" > legs against the BL straight legs. > > Anyone else with any thoughts on the font in use? See > http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TR-6-Window-Sticker-Blank-FONT-TEST.gif > for an image of my edit of Joes super scan! > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************************************** >>> >>> >>>> -------Original Message------- >>>> From: Joe Burlein >>>> Subject: Blank Window Sticker >>>> Sent: Apr 29 '08 14:28 >>>> Here is my first round of blanks.... From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Apr 29 21:09:31 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 22:09:31 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker Message-ID: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> Tony, Hey thanks for doing that. I had to look at it twice to realize it was my sticker with all the stuff to customize taken off! Way cool. This is one of this times you wish you had a financial interest! You questions about options is a tough one. I provided you the list presented to me as original, but your questions are legit. I also have a both 72 brochure's, and the PI version from the UK. In my insanity, I also came accross a 72 dealer portfolio, Triumph history sales brochure, and a Consumer information sales brochure all for the 72. If any of these could help you, let me know. I also received my new rear lense thanks to the list. Craig Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 From: Tony Gordon Date: 2008/04/29 Tue PM 08:11:52 CDT To: Joe Burlein Cc: TR list , 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker Thanks Joe, the PDF reads fine into Illustrator ... Once I find a matching font, that will make it easy for anyone to create their own window stickers ... the best match I've found so far is OCR B MT. At 9pt and expanding the font width by 120%, it matches most of the characteristics of the typeface (the 4 needs a little more expansion). The "W" is the problem .... but if the entire doc is redone using that font, I doubt anyone would notice the curved "W" legs against the BL straight legs. Anyone else with any thoughts on the font in use? See http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TR-6-Window-Sticker-Blank-FONT-TEST.gif for an image of my edit of Joes super scan! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** >> >> >>> -------Original Message------- >>> From: Joe Burlein >>> Subject: Blank Window Sticker >>> Sent: Apr 29 '08 14:28 >>> Here is my first round of blanks.... This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Apr 29 21:17:20 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 23:17:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <015301c8aa70$b3ee7f30$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Craig, That is very kind, but you have give me the well deserved credit due to Joe Burlein ... he did all the editing and cleaning up! All I did was to add a font sample to Joe's excellent work in the hope that we could use a similar font to create our own window stickers ... although I should acknowledge that without your original scan, we would not be where we are now, so many thanks to you both! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Tony Gordon" ; "Joe Burlein" Cc: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "TR list" Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 11:09 PM Subject: Re: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker > Tony, > > Hey thanks for doing that. I had to look at it twice to realize it was my > sticker with all the stuff to customize taken off! Way cool. This is one > of this times you wish you had a financial interest! > > You questions about options is a tough one. I provided you the list > presented to me as original, but your questions are legit. > > I also have a both 72 brochure's, and the PI version from the UK. In my > insanity, I also came accross a 72 dealer portfolio, Triumph history sales > brochure, and a Consumer information sales brochure all for the 72. If > any of these could help you, let me know. > > I also received my new rear lense thanks to the list. > > Craig Nicholls > Vienna, VA > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > > From: Tony Gordon > Date: 2008/04/29 Tue PM 08:11:52 CDT > To: Joe Burlein > Cc: TR list , 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker > > Thanks Joe, the PDF reads fine into Illustrator ... Once I find a matching > font, that will make it easy for anyone to create their own window > stickers > ... the best match I've found so far is OCR B MT. At 9pt and expanding > the > font width by 120%, it matches most of the characteristics of the typeface > (the 4 needs a little more expansion). The "W" is the problem .... but if > the entire doc is redone using that font, I doubt anyone would notice the > curved "W" legs against the BL straight legs. > > Anyone else with any thoughts on the font in use? See > http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TR-6-Window-Sticker-Blank-FONT-TEST.gif > for an image of my edit of Joes super scan! From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Apr 29 22:31:56 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 04:31:56 +0000 Subject: [TR] Suspension help. Message-ID: I have a problem with the rear of my TR3A bottoming out. I have fairly new stock rated springs, uprated Armstrong shocks, and the springs have been recurved to raise my ride height. Now I bottom out going over freeway bumps just less frequently. The bottoming seems to occur more on the drop off of a bump than on the up bump. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this. Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ In a rush? Get real-time answers with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ realtime_042008 From pethier at comcast.net Tue Apr 29 23:17:10 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 05:17:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] Suspension help. Message-ID: <043020080517.15749.481800D6000B32BB00003D8522155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: tom white > I have a problem with the rear of my TR3A bottoming out. I have fairly new > stock rated springs, uprated Armstrong shocks, and the springs have been > recurved to raise my ride height. Now I bottom out going over freeway bumps > just less frequently. The bottoming seems to occur more on the drop off of a > bump than on the up bump. It's not bottoming. It's topping. TRs are underslung cars. If you raised the ride height, you reduced the amount of droop allowed before the axle strikes the frame. Big Healeys had this problem when the factory tried to raise the ride height for rallying. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Apr 30 02:55:19 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 09:55:19 +0100 Subject: [TR] Dealer vs Factory Options References: <48177B5E.606@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <018b01c8aaa2$579eade0$0201a8c0@Bevan> As I pointed out to Joe in an off-list email yesterday (and Andy Mace also later confirmed) the hard top, overdrive, tonneau cover, wire wheels and red band tyres were *not* dealer options. They were in fact the only line-fitted options for the TR6 at the factory. While I had little to do with Triumph in terms of export specs in 1972 and was selling Land Rovers in Africa, ISTR that wire wheels were specified as standard fit on all 6's for the US market in 1971ish.. If I'm wrong here, no doubt someone will point this out? Certainly all those options were line fitted, although the company did sometimes specify them as standard to increase buyer appeal. As Andy pointed out, some of those options could be dealer fitted at a later date without tearing the car to pieces in the process. Come to that, all of the options *could* have been dealer fitted using componentry from Importer Parts Stocks but this would have substantially altered customer pricing in a dramatically upwards direction. Other extras such as radios, extra lighting, luggage racks, fuel locking caps et al were available through Leonia as accessories. Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Burlein" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 8:47 PM Subject: [TR] Dealer vs Factory Options > In my quest to reproduce my window sticker I am curious. The 1972 MY > suggested prices for the TR6 list the hard top, overdrive, tonneau > cover, wire wheels and red bank tires as the ONLY dealer options. (I > assume the boot cover was standard????) So, does anyone have old price > sheets for the other options? (IE: USA stripe kit, luggage rack, air > conditioning, overrider bars, floor mats, AMCO console, fog/driving > lights, etc.) > > And again, anyone who can scan (or point me to scans) of old "window > stickers", "accessories, equipment and additional cost items installed > by dealer" or "BL suggested retail prices" documents, please let me know! > > Thanks again, > > Joe > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 30 04:59:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 03:59:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Suspension help. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080430105929.MLI20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > The bottoming seems to occur more on the drop > off of a bump than on the up bump. Are you sure it's 'bottoming' out instead of 'topping' out ? IOW, is the axle hitting the frame rather than the check straps ? > Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this. To some extent, it's the nature of the beast (IMO). The car's design just doesn't allow a lot of rear axle travel. Stiffer springs and stiffer shocks will help keep the axle from hitting the stops, but lead to a harsher ride all the time instead of just over big bumps. But first, I'd check that the axle is hitting both stops more-or-less evenly. On my 3A, it hit the frame more often (as witnessed by the rubber wearing out) which says adding some shims between axle & spring would help. Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Apr 30 05:01:41 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 06:01:41 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker Message-ID: <15798722.1666481209553302035.JavaMail.root@vms172.mailsrvcs.net> Joe did a fantastic job! I already printed one for my records from my original scan. The list has been very helpful to me, glad to return the favor and see people have fun with it. Thanks. Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 From: Tony Gordon Date: 2008/04/29 Tue PM 10:17:20 CDT To: thenicholls at verizon.net Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>, TR list , Joe Burlein Subject: Re: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker Craig, That is very kind, but you have give me the well deserved credit due to Joe Burlein ... he did all the editing and cleaning up! All I did was to add a font sample to Joe's excellent work in the hope that we could use a similar font to create our own window stickers ... although I should acknowledge that without your original scan, we would not be where we are now, so many thanks to you both! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Tony Gordon" ; "Joe Burlein" Cc: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "TR list" Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 11:09 PM Subject: Re: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker > Tony, > > Hey thanks for doing that. I had to look at it twice to realize it was my > sticker with all the stuff to customize taken off! Way cool. This is one > of this times you wish you had a financial interest! > > You questions about options is a tough one. I provided you the list > presented to me as original, but your questions are legit. > > I also have a both 72 brochure's, and the PI version from the UK. In my > insanity, I also came accross a 72 dealer portfolio, Triumph history sales > brochure, and a Consumer information sales brochure all for the 72. If > any of these could help you, let me know. > > I also received my new rear lense thanks to the list. > > Craig Nicholls > Vienna, VA > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > > From: Tony Gordon > Date: 2008/04/29 Tue PM 08:11:52 CDT > To: Joe Burlein > Cc: TR list , 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker > > Thanks Joe, the PDF reads fine into Illustrator ... Once I find a matching > font, that will make it easy for anyone to create their own window > stickers > ... the best match I've found so far is OCR B MT. At 9pt and expanding > the > font width by 120%, it matches most of the characteristics of the typeface > (the 4 needs a little more expansion). The "W" is the problem .... but if > the entire doc is redone using that font, I doubt anyone would notice the > curved "W" legs against the BL straight legs. > > Anyone else with any thoughts on the font in use? See > http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TR-6-Window-Sticker-Blank-FONT-TEST.gif > for an image of my edit of Joes super scan! From supertr6 at earthlink.net Wed Apr 30 05:11:17 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 07:11:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] window sticker scan In-Reply-To: <699624.61891.qm@web30604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <699624.61891.qm@web30604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <481853D5.2070808@earthlink.net> The blank 72 TR6 Window Sticker... Tim Cheatham wrote: > Joe, > > If it hit the triumph mailing list, I apologize, but I missed it. Could you forward a copy of the scan? > > Thanks, > > Tim > > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > Be a better friend, newshound, and > know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR-6 Window Sticker Blank.jpg] From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Apr 30 05:35:56 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 06:35:56 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Drivers side tail light housing Message-ID: <21929882.1669831209555356384.JavaMail.root@vms172.mailsrvcs.net> List, Read through the archives but did not see any answer. On my 72 TR6, I am replacing a lense on the drivers rear side. Got it off last night after soaking with oil, but of course, one would not come off and had to be cut. Get it off, and see that I only have 3 intact attaching points to the body. Drilled out the one that was broken off. Now, I could install it, but I want to get at least one tight connection on the bottom closest to the passenger side seat. You cannot use a screw, and using another bolt and nut is an issue because all the lenses must be installed before putting back on the car and there is no way to keep the bolt from turning. I do not want another housing, because mine is in good shape. Does anyone have a solution to this situation? What is the size of those bolts? Any help is appreciated. Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Apr 30 05:48:30 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 07:48:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 assembly Message-ID: <006c01c8aab8$1c6cb5d0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> List, Can anyone tell me where the following items pass thru the firewall on a TR4, CT18xxxL? 1. The oil line to the gauge. 2. The tach cable. 3. The speedometer cable. There are three approximately 1" holes in the firewall close to the master cylinders; one, in fact, almost behind the master cylinders. Are these the ones? Wouldn't bother the List, but I've searched the shop manual to no avail and the car was dismantled by another party. Thanks, Ed Woods P.S. I have a photo of the firewall in question if someone wants a look. From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Apr 30 07:24:07 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 09:24:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker In-Reply-To: <15798722.1666481209553302035.JavaMail.root@vms172.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <48183AB7.14777.128A0BCB@localhost> On first quick glance I saw this title "Blank Window Sticker" as "Black Widow Spider". It's been a tough morning already and it's just getting started. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Apr 30 07:51:48 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 09:51:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suspension help. In-Reply-To: <043020080517.15749.481800D6000B32BB00003D8522155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <043020080517.15749.481800D6000B32BB00003D8522155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CA78E0785AC279-12F0-282@WEBMAIL-DC12.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net It's not bottoming. It's topping. TRs are underslung cars. If you raised the ride height, you reduced the amount of droop allowed before the axle strikes the frame. ==AM== Back around 1972 or so, a friend of mine bought a real beater (but good runner) of a TR3A. The one thing he REALLY wanted to do was to get some big old long spring shackles and raise up the rear end like all the '57 Chev's in town. Took a bit of explaining to convince him that, well, it might NOT work on the TR.... ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Apr 30 08:10:24 2008 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:10:24 GMT Subject: [TR] Suspension help. Message-ID: <200804300810505.SM02372@[166.70.182.40]> Andy is right, longer shackles lower the car. My 57 TR3 vintage race car has about 3" longer shackles and the car sits about 3 inches lower than stock. Brad ==AM== Back around 1972 or so, a friend of mine bought a real beater (but good runner) of a TR3A. The one thing he REALLY wanted to do was to get some big old long spring shackles and raise up the rear end like all the '57 Chev's in town. Took a bit of explaining to convince him that, well, it might NOT work on the TR.... ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: http://triumph-herald.us This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as brad.kahler at 141.com http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Apr 30 09:14:16 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 08:14:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 assembly In-Reply-To: <006c01c8aab8$1c6cb5d0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <006c01c8aab8$1c6cb5d0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <8A8FA9F9FD174339B7B99C71968F1800@GeoPC> On TS36xxx those are the 3 holes used. From left to right they are speedo, oil, & tach. I believe this is correct as the car is fairly original but other opinions would be good. Photo attached for your benefit. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 4:48 AM Subject: [TR] TR4 assembly > List, > > Can anyone tell me where the following items pass thru the firewall on a > TR4, > CT18xxxL? > > 1. The oil line to the gauge. > 2. The tach cable. > 3. The speedometer cable. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Holes.JPG] From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Apr 30 09:35:00 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:35:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] Suspension help. In-Reply-To: <20080430105929.MLI20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080430105929.MLI20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: When I said I was bottoming out I meant that the exhaust, which I have routed under the frame, drags the ground. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Make i'm yours. Create a custom banner to support your cause. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Contribute/Default.aspx?source=TXT_TAGHM_MSN_ Make_IM_Yours From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Apr 30 09:45:20 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 11:45:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 cabling assembly References: <006c01c8aab8$1c6cb5d0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> <8A8FA9F9FD174339B7B99C71968F1800@GeoPC> Message-ID: <001d01c8aad9$33048ae0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> George, Thanks very much for the answer and photo. That's the way I'll go. Ed From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Apr 30 12:24:35 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:24:35 EDT Subject: [TR] Dealer vs Factory Options Message-ID: I have the original window sticker, final price worksheet and (to Andy's point), the original, separate form called: "Accessories, Equipment and Additional Cost Items Installed By Dealer" for my dad's 1996 Spitfire purchased new in August, 1966. The dealer installed items on our sheet were seat belts, AM Pushbutton Radio and a chrome pipe ($1.50)! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 4/29/2008 6:30:00 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ZoboHerald at aol.com writes: cars on the lot or on the showroom floor with any dealer-installed items would likely sport an additional sticker listing those items and their prices. **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From leejohn7 at gmail.com Wed Apr 30 14:57:00 2008 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 13:57:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 cut out under power Message-ID: Was having a nice drive along a good curvey road last evening when the engine cut out. Was very fortunate to be able to coast into a pull-off. Tried what I could on spot, and then was AAA'd home. Put on an new rotor. This is negative ground car, so battery lead should tie to neg post on the coil, right? Coil is OK, judging by ohm test. Installed new condenser. Checked the gap. No spark. What have I missed? Most embarrassing. Your help greatly appreciated. Thanks John Howard From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 30 15:35:52 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:35:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 cut out under power In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <022801c8ab0a$2a21f3f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > This is negative ground car, so battery lead should tie to > neg post on the > coil, right? Nope, the neg coil post should be grounded by the points on a negative ground car. But having it backwards won't keep the engine from running, just perhaps make it a little more difficult to start on cold mornings. > Coil is OK, judging by ohm test. Installed new condenser. > Checked the gap. No spark. > What have I missed? I would start by checking for spark directly at the coil, bypassing the ignition wires and cap. If you have someone to help, this can be done with a pair of screwdrivers, one to stick down inside the coil tower and the other to reach over towards the rocker cover. If no spark at the coil, roll the engine until the points are closed, then check for 12v across the coil primary terminals. Then open the points and check for 0v. If the points appear to be always open, check the flexible lead from the dizzy side terminal to the points, as it can sometimes break internally and not conduct even though it looks OK. If the points appear to be shorted, then possibly you've pulled my old trick, of fixing the original problem and introducing a new one by installing the insulator wrong. The wires go on the post first, then the insulator goes on top. There's also the chance that your 'new' condensor is actually bad. Randall From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Apr 30 17:48:45 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:48:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 cut out under power In-Reply-To: <022801c8ab0a$2a21f3f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <022801c8ab0a$2a21f3f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: In addition to all that Randall mentioned, I would check the little lead from the coil to the dizzy... white w/ a black stripe if the wiring is original/correct. That wire leads a hard life and can fail at either connector. Without it you have a 2000 lbs semi-portable radio. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" > > If the points appear to be always open, check the flexible lead from the > dizzy side terminal to the points, as it can sometimes break internally > and > not conduct even though it looks OK. From leejohn7 at gmail.com Wed Apr 30 17:56:52 2008 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:56:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 cut out under power In-Reply-To: References: <022801c8ab0a$2a21f3f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Thank you all. I'll get back on it tomorrow and let you know. So far i don't think I've done or misdone any of your collective moves. John On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 4:48 PM, Geo & Kathleen Hahn < ahwahnee at cybertrails.com> wrote: > In addition to all that Randall mentioned, I would check the little lead > from the coil to the dizzy... white w/ a black stripe if the wiring is > original/correct. That wire leads a hard life and can fail at either > connector. Without it you have a 2000 lbs semi-portable radio. > > Geo > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" > > > > If the points appear to be always open, check the flexible lead from the > > dizzy side terminal to the points, as it can sometimes break internally > > and > > not conduct even though it looks OK. From cbhlouky at bellsouth.net Wed Apr 30 18:09:32 2008 From: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net (Craig) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 20:09:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] British Bash deadline Message-ID: <000f01c8ab1f$a208f110$0201a8c0@home9cmfx9peca> May 3rd is the deadline for receiving the preregistration benefits of the British Bash car show in Louisville, Kentucky on June 6th & 7th. Will the Triumphs out number the Healeys???? Save money! Get bonus goodies!!! Go to www.britishbash.com to download the flyer or register online!! You'll Have a Great Time!! Thanks, Craig cbhlouky at bellsouth.net From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Wed Apr 30 18:21:00 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 20:21:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dealer vs Factory Options In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <003501c8ab21$3c512340$0301a8c0@chuck> -----Original Message----- From: On Behalf Of Chip19474 at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 2:25 PM To: ZoboHerald at aol.com; supertr6 at earthlink.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Dealer vs Factory Options ... for my dad's 1996 Spitfire purchased new in August, 1966. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U WOW!!! Guess he had an original time-traveler! Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ From DLylis at aol.com Wed Apr 30 19:05:16 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 21:05:16 EDT Subject: [TR] Suspension help. Message-ID: I am prepared for the same with the axle bumping the chassis. I put new springs on the rear with new rubbers, et al, and the rubber sits soundly against the chassis (with no body on) I am not sure if the body, gas tank, driver will be sufficient weight to move that axle off the chassis. Is fabricating longer shackles a solution? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 30 20:09:37 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 19:09:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Suspension help. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080501020942.UXZK19888.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > When I said I was bottoming out I meant that the exhaust, > which I have routed under the frame, drags the ground. In that case, you don't really need us to tell you to put the exhaust back where it belongs. I've even considered notching the rear apron so the exhaust outlet could be moved higher, but instead I'm just careful to take speed bumps and ditches at an angle (and accept that the exhaust tip has to be replaced occasionally). But my car is deliberately lower than stock, so it should be less of an issue with standard tires, etc. Randall From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Apr 30 20:38:13 2008 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 19:38:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cloth car cover Message-ID: <48192D15.7000501@141.com> In about 2 weeks the new to us 2000 roadster is going to have to be stored outside for a period of about two to six months. The location will be near Santa Barbara CA. I don't have the foggiest idea of what kind of car cover I should be shopping for. We want something to protect from the following: rain, dust and condensation along with anything else that might be pertinent for the area. So for those of you who store cars outside what kind/brand/type of car covers are you using? Thanks! Brad 1949 2000 Roadster From steven at newellboys.net Wed Apr 30 21:20:24 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 21:20:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 cut out under power In-Reply-To: References: <022801c8ab0a$2a21f3f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <481936F8.2010004@newellboys.net> Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: >In addition to all that Randall mentioned, I would check the little lead >from the coil to the dizzy... white w/ a black stripe if the wiring is >original/correct. That wire leads a hard life and can fail at either >connector. Without it you have a 2000 lbs semi-portable radio. > Right. That one got me a few years ago, but luckily I was just leaving a picnic of TR enthusiasts in town for the VTR in Breckenridge. Clever list luminaries had me back on the road in no time. Set up a picnic and your problems should be solved. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 etc. From supertr6 at earthlink.net Wed Apr 30 22:25:22 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 00:25:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Old Dealer Network Message-ID: <48194632.9070004@earthlink.net> OK, another esoteric question. In my quest to recreate my window sticker I'd like to put in a Florida Dealership from the early 70s. (Who knows where my car originally came from...) Does anyone have any docs with the old dealer network on it?! (The import city was Jax I believe). Thanks again, Joe PS: the upgraded 72 window sticker should be done by tomorrow and this weekend I'll work on the 74... From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Apr 30 22:32:06 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 00:32:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 cut out under power References: <022801c8ab0a$2a21f3f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <481936F8.2010004@newellboys.net> Message-ID: <03c501c8ab44$507e9d20$45247247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Remember that very well, Bud Rolfson hosted the picnic, I seem to remember it was Dan Masters solving your problem. "FT" ===================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Newell" To: "'Lee&John Howard'" ; "'triumph list list'" Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 11:20 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 cut out under power > Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > >>In addition to all that Randall mentioned, I would check the little lead >>from the coil to the dizzy... white w/ a black stripe if the wiring is >>original/correct. That wire leads a hard life and can fail at either >>connector. Without it you have a 2000 lbs semi-portable radio. >> > Right. That one got me a few years ago, but luckily I was just leaving a > picnic of TR enthusiasts in town for the VTR in Breckenridge. Clever > list luminaries had me back on the road in no time. Set up a picnic and > your problems should be solved. > > Steven Newell > Littleton, CO USA > '62 TR4 x 2 etc. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Apr 30 23:05:16 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 01:05:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Old Dealer Network References: <48194632.9070004@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <03e601c8ab48$f275a390$45247247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Jacksonville is correct, mine is original dealer ==Jarrard Motors, Pensacola == "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Burlein" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 12:25 AM Subject: [TR] Old Dealer Network > OK, another esoteric question. In my quest to recreate my window > sticker I'd like to put in a Florida Dealership from the early 70s. > (Who knows where my car originally came from...) Does anyone have any > docs with the old dealer network on it?! (The import city was Jax I > believe). > > Thanks again, > > Joe > > PS: the upgraded 72 window sticker should be done by tomorrow and this > weekend I'll work on the 74... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive