From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Sep 1 05:31:45 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 07:31:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack In-Reply-To: References: <00ce01c7ec20$c4d3ec40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <000c01c7ec8b$b01f7790$210110ac@bobspc> One thing Rick didn't mention is weight savings. On a TR6, you're removing 6 - 1/2 lbs and replacing it with just 8 oz! I won't make any horsepower increase assumptions but that is a lot of weight the engine doesn't have to turn anymore. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 12:17 AM To: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack > -----Original Message----- snip > Behalf Of Randall snip > > I have recently started > > manufacturing fan eliminator kits for the TR3 and TR4. > > So, what exactly is your kit ? A new front hub with a harmonic > dampener and pulley to take the original wide belt ? > > May as well tell the entire list, since you mentioned it here first. > > Randall > Randall, The kit is designed to eliminate the fan and fan extension when converting to an electric fan. After removal of the fan extension it will just slip onto the six bolts that are already in place. No alterations to your car are required. The acorn nuts, lock washers, and flat washers are all stainless steel. The new center bolt is a grade 8 which is really overkill but a lot of Triumph owners insist. The kit includes the CNC billet aluminum hub, stainless acorn nuts and washers, and grade 8 crank bolt with washers. Cost of the kit is $45 plus shipping of $8 within the US. Photos http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/tr3_4eliminator.jpg http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/tr34_eliminator_kit.jpg thanks for asking, Rick http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/ rick at sidedrafttbi.com _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.1/982 - Release Date: 8/31/2007 5:21 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.1/982 - Release Date: 8/31/2007 5:21 PM From acs25m at swbell.net Sat Sep 1 10:33:05 2007 From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 11:33:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] head gaskets Message-ID: <002401c7ecb5$c68e78d0$e600a8c0@computerroom> Hi all, Can anyone tell me what the difference is between a generic head gasket, a Payen brand and a solid copper gasket? Is one better than another? John R Maneke TR250 CD3416L From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Sep 1 10:47:57 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 12:47:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack References: Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DAFC@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Pardon my ignorance, but I have a question. Do the eliminated parts contribute in any way to balancing or dampening vibrations on the crankshaft? I've never been sure whether or not it is just the crank pulley alone, or the pulley plus heavy fan extension that were to act as the harmonic balancer. I've read that the TR6 crankshaft is in need of balancing due to rather rough manufacturing techniques. Mark 1972 TR6 ________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net on behalf of Rick Sent: Sat 01/09/2007 12:16 AM To: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack > -----Original Message----- snip > Behalf Of Randall snip > > I have recently started > > manufacturing fan eliminator kits for the TR3 and TR4. > > So, what exactly is your kit ? A new front hub with a harmonic > dampener and > pulley to take the original wide belt ? > > May as well tell the entire list, since you mentioned it here first. > > Randall > Randall, The kit is designed to eliminate the fan and fan extension when converting to an electric fan. After removal of the fan extension it will just slip onto the six bolts that are already in place. No alterations to your car are required. The acorn nuts, lock washers, and flat washers are all stainless steel. The new center bolt is a grade 8 which is really overkill but a lot of Triumph owners insist. The kit includes the CNC billet aluminum hub, stainless acorn nuts and washers, and grade 8 crank bolt with washers. Cost of the kit is $45 plus shipping of $8 within the US. Photos http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/tr3_4eliminator.jpg http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/tr34_eliminator_kit.jpg thanks for asking, Rick http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/ rick at sidedrafttbi.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 1 12:03:56 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 11:03:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DAFC@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <20070901180316.FYSN16499.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > Pardon my ignorance, but I have a question. Do the eliminated parts contribute in any way to balancing or > dampening vibrations on the crankshaft? On the TR2-4; I've been told by those who should know that the stock fan itself, and the rubber bushings it mounts on, acts as a harmonic dampener. This has nothing to do with engine balance (although the fan assembly is balanced by itself), but with reducing vibrations in the crankshaft that add to it's stress. However, based both on personal experience and what I've been told, this doesn't appear to be too important for nearly stock, street-driven engines. It's the people who consistently run over 5000 rpm that seem to need the dampening. To that end, most of the racing TR parts suppliers offer a harmonic dampener to fit the TRactor motor. It's also usually alloy, and usually part of a narrow belt conversion, and quite pricey. TriumphTune used to sell the parts to allow using the dampener from a BMC motor, but AFAIK that kit has been NLA for a long time. I've run over 100,000 miles on the street with no mechanical fan or extension, even exceeding 5000 rpm on occasion (once had a passenger ask me if the tach was supposed to hit the stop like that ), and never broken a crank. I have seen the cranks others broke, but AFAIK every one of them was on the race track, not on the street. YMMV of course. Randall From hdrider570 at peoplepc.com Sat Sep 1 16:06:47 2007 From: hdrider570 at peoplepc.com (hdrider570 at peoplepc.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 15:06:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack Message-ID: <002e01c7ece4$6dbb0460$b4b05545@DFKQ4L31> >Do the eliminated parts contribute in any way to balancing or dampening vibrations on the >crankshaft? A much debated question with no clear answers. The later TR4A had an aluminum fan extension and a Yellow Plastic fan so it would seem to me that a lot of the weight can be eliminated but I am not sure if all of it can. The engine as designed has a real harmonic around 5,000 so without balancing of the motor you can readily break the crank in "Racing" situations regardless. YMMV. Personally I ran a TR4 motor for 15 years with a stock steel extension but with a fiberglass fan without any problems. Currently I am running a TR4 with a (Shorter) TR3 extension and a "Yellow" fan. Edward Hamer From Btmfdchn at aol.com Sat Sep 1 16:49:02 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 18:49:02 EDT Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack Message-ID: In a message dated 9/1/2007 11:03:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: However, based both on personal experience and what I've been told, this doesn't appear to be too important for nearly stock, street-driven engines. It's the people who consistently run over 5000 rpm that seem to need the dampening. To that end, most of the racing TR parts suppliers offer a harmonic dampener to fit the TRactor motor. It's also usually alloy, and usually part of a narrow belt conversion, and quite pricey. TriumphTune used to sell the parts to allow using the dampener from a BMC motor, but AFAIK that kit has been NLA for a long time. Greetings... I got this from a friend who raced TR powered Morgans in the 70's in Europe. The dampener from a 3-main MGB will fit with slight modification to the key-way to make it a bit deeper. This also converts it to a narrow belt. You then need a narrow belt pulley for the generator (if you are still using one-GM alternators come with narrow pulleys). He didn't recall the details for the waterpump pulley, maybe TR6. His further recommendations were tufftriding the crank and a very precise balance job. His engines ran consistently over 6000 and he never broke a crankshaft (again). TJ ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 1 17:11:03 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 16:11:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070901231023.HINC25705.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> Randall wrote >> TriumphTune used to sell the parts to allow using the dampener from a BMC motor, but >> AFAIK that kit has been NLA for a long time. Btmfdchn at aol.com replied > The dampener from a 3-main MGB will fit with slight modification to the key-way to make it a bit deeper. It takes a bit more than that, at least for the dampener I sourced from a MGB (maybe it was a 5 main ?). The hub area is both shorter and smaller diameter; meaning you need a spacer between it and the crank gear to clear the timing cover (and line the belts up), plus a special seal to fit both the cavity in the cover and the smaller hub. My understanding is that the TT kit was the spacer and special seal. Of course, someone that was handy with a lathe could probably create a spacer that would perform both functions; or the seal might even be available off the shelf somewhere. > He didn't recall the details for the waterpump pulley, maybe TR6. Only the TR5/250 and possibly very early TR6 had removable pulleys. At one time, VB had some NOS pulleys, but most likely they are gone now. > His further recommendations were tufftriding the crank and a very precise balance job. Good advice. Randall From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Sat Sep 1 19:21:30 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2007 20:21:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack In-Reply-To: <20070901231023.HINC25705.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070901231023.HINC25705.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <200709020121.l821LbWE401227@ns3.geneseo.net> I've run the MGB conversion on my race car for eleven years. I honestly don't know if it does any good or not, but it makes me feel like I've done everything possible short of buying a high priced aftermarket dampener. The theory of these dampener is that it helps dampen the torsional vibration imparted to the crank by our four banger engines. I agree with Randall that it doesn't make much difference on an engine seldom over the 6000 rpm line. You can do almost anything with these engines if you keep it below 6000. What's required for the conversion is to shorten the extendion of the MGB pulley that would normally go through the front seal, and cut enough off of that portion of the TR pulley that it can serve as an extension plus give the right diameter for the seal. The only part that leaves me uneasy is the key in the crank does not engage much of the keyway in the pulley, but that hasn't caused a problem i my car and others with the same conversion. If anyone wants dimensions to cut these two pieces, contact me off list and I'll send them to you. At 06:11 PM 9/1/2007, Randall wrote: >Randall wrote > >> TriumphTune used to sell the parts to allow using the dampener from a >BMC motor, but > >> AFAIK that kit has been NLA for a long time. > >Btmfdchn at aol.com replied > > > The dampener from a 3-main MGB will fit with slight modification to the >key-way to make it a bit deeper. > >It takes a bit more than that, at least for the dampener I sourced from a >MGB (maybe it was a 5 main ?). The hub area is both shorter and smaller >diameter; meaning you need a spacer between it and the crank gear to clear >the timing cover (and line the belts up), plus a special seal to fit both >the cavity in the cover and the smaller hub. My understanding is that the >TT kit was the spacer and special seal. Of course, someone that was handy >with a lathe could probably create a spacer that would perform both >functions; or the seal might even be available off the shelf somewhere. > > > He didn't recall the details for the waterpump pulley, maybe TR6. > >Only the TR5/250 and possibly very early TR6 had removable pulleys. At one >time, VB had some NOS pulleys, but most likely they are gone now. > > > His further recommendations were tufftriding the crank and a very precise >balance job. > >Good advice. > >Randall >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From dorpaul at negia.net Sat Sep 1 20:47:27 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 22:47:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cool console switch idea needed Message-ID: <007001c7ed0b$a37ba100$b70260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I have sorta 'rearranged' the center console on my TR3 by placing the panel lights on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. This ultimately resulted in me having an empty switch hole in the console where my 'starter push switch' used to be. What might be a good switch available to fill the void? Some sort of alarm would be kinda cool, but, proably ought to be hidden. Is there an unusual switch that others have seen? (I don't suppose relay switches for the lights need cutting on-or-off, do they?) Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 1 22:23:42 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 22:23:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cool console switch idea needed In-Reply-To: <007001c7ed0b$a37ba100$b70260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070902042353.8A4CE1879E2@autox.team.net> Do you have fog lights? OR, maybe some of those cool blue lights up in the fender wells and racker panels! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 8:47 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Cool console switch idea needed I have sorta 'rearranged' the center console on my TR3 by placing the panel lights on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. This ultimately resulted in me having an empty switch hole in the console where my 'starter push switch' used to be. What might be a good switch available to fill the void? Some sort of alarm would be kinda cool, but, proably ought to be hidden. Is there an unusual switch that others have seen? (I don't suppose relay switches for the lights need cutting on-or-off, do they?) Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/983 - Release Date: 9/1/2007 4:20 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/983 - Release Date: 9/1/2007 4:20 PM From N197TR4 at cs.com Sun Sep 2 13:37:01 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 15:37:01 EDT Subject: [TR] Dampener or no Dampener on Tractor Engines Message-ID: My own opinion is that a very heavy 31# flywheel has more to do with cranks cracking than the absense of a dampener. These flywheels should have never been 31#. I use an MGB harmonic balancer on #197, but seriously doubt it does very much, outside of provide me with a pulley for a narrow belt. I have used flywheels from 10-20# in 16 years of racing, sometimes exceeding 6,000 RPM and have never broken a crankshaft. And I use a stock crankshaft with no preparation beyond balancing. It is my understanding that harmonic balancers have to be carefully engineered to the specific engine characteristics. I doubt that Triumph studied this in very great depth for this particular engine. Mostly my opinion, but I have some history, both empirically and by asscociations. Joe A > Pardon my ignorance, but I have a question. Do the eliminated parts > contribute in any way to balancing or > > dampening vibrations on the crankshaft? > > On the TR2-4; I've been told by those who should know that the stock fan > itself, and the rubber bushings it mounts on, acts as a harmonic dampener. > This has nothing to do with engine balance (although the fan assembly is > balanced by itself), but with reducing vibrations in the crankshaft that add > to it's stress. > > However, based both on personal experience and what I've been told, this > doesn't appear to be too important for nearly stock, street-driven engines. > It's the people who consistently run over 5000 rpm that seem to need the > dampening. To that end, most of the racing TR parts suppliers offer a > harmonic dampener to fit the TRactor motor. It's also usually alloy, and > usually part of a narrow belt conversion, and quite pricey. TriumphTune > used to sell the parts to allow using the dampener from a BMC motor, but > AFAIK that kit has been NLA for a long time. > > I've run over 100,000 miles on the street with no mechanical fan or > extension, even exceeding 5000 rpm on occasion (once had a passenger ask me > if the tach was supposed to hit the stop like that ), and never broken a > crank. I have seen the cranks others broke, but AFAIK every one of them was > on the race track, not on the street. YMMV of course. > > Randall > From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Sep 2 16:14:24 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 18:14:24 EDT Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins Message-ID: My apologies Guys, Max gremlins turned out to be nothing more than a loose tail light. I did have the rear deck of the TR7 painted semi gloss black a few years ago. Seems the like the painter must have to forgot to tighten down both tail light lenses, therefore the disco light effect in the rear. Duh, never mind, sorry to bother you guys, all is well now, that cop should have pulled me over, but since he did not I can cruise around town now with confidence. Thanks anyway, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Sep 2 17:50:34 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 19:50:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mail Problems Message-ID: <000001c7edbc$16f75150$210110ac@bobspc> I haven't had one of my posts or replies to either mail list show up for about 4 days now. I am however receiving some mail from both lists. So this is a test to see if I or anyone else gets this. Let me know. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/983 - Release Date: 9/1/2007 4:20 PM From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Sep 2 18:01:58 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 18:01:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Mail Problems In-Reply-To: <000001c7edbc$16f75150$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c7edbc$16f75150$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <46DB4EF6.7030609@tscusa.org> Bob Danielson wrote: > I haven't had one of my posts or replies to either mail list show up for > about 4 days now. I am however receiving some mail from both lists. So this > is a test to see if I or anyone else gets this. Let me know. > > Thanks > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > I got this one Bob, and a few of the others recently popped up. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Sep 2 18:23:18 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 20:23:18 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problems Message-ID: Guys, High Maintenance Type Guy Here, Huh? OK, I admit that the Six has not been out much this year. Tonight, she darn near left me on the side on the road. Running poorly, she quit. No fire! Gas seemed to be present. Called Bev, and she coped a rotor out of the 250 and came to the rescue, grand kids in tow in the Audi. With the 250 rotor the Six fired enough to get her home, but just barely as she ran like crap the few miles needed. Got to be electrical from sitting! What to look at first? Funny that the rotor from the 250 made her fire? I was on my way to get some fresh gas added to the half tank in her now of old stuff. AT LEAST I DID NOT NOT REQIURE A HOOK! Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 2 18:37:10 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 17:37:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problems In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070903003629.CUZS9920.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > With > the 250 rotor the Six fired enough to get her home, but just > barely as she ran like crap the few miles needed. Darrell, the very first thing that makes me think is "bad plug wire". The bad wire lets the system voltage go much higher than usual, which eventually breaks down and carbon tracks the rotor, which shorts all the spark to ground. A new rotor will get the engine running, but poorly due to the bad wire ... until the new rotor fails and strands you again. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Sep 2 18:48:53 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 20:48:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] vintage raced day pt 1 Message-ID: <46DB21B5.19940.10DAF4@localhost> [It seems I have to post this in two parts.] Yesterday (Saturday) Sharon and I decided on the spur of the moment to drive out to Lime Rock to watch some of the vintage racing bash they hold there every Labor day weekend. I haven't followed racing seriously since my flagging days which ended in 1975. I've never seen a vintage race and the only SCCA event I've seen since then was a not-very-interesting regional we attended at Lime Rock a few years ago. So we didn't quite know what to expect. But the weather was gorgeous and the holiday weekend was begging for an adventure. So we threw some food and amenities into the GT6 and pointed it west. We took the GT6 because it seemed like the right choice to ride to vintage races. Surprise - it younger than all the race cars! Becauseit was a spontaneous decision we got a late start, didn't leave the house until noon for the 3-hour trip. It would have been less except for the traffic jam on I90. And the students returning to school in, umm, Great Barrington, I believe it was. (As Barringtons go, Great Barrington scores right up there with the best of 'em. It's a beautiful town in a beautiful part of the world.) Still, it was a great trip out despite the traffic. Rt 7, the north/south road through the Berkshires is an awesome sports car road. It would have been even better in a roadster top-down. But the trip out the Mass Pike (I90) would have been less fun and much noisier. We got to the track with maybe four 10-lap races left. They wanted $45 apiece to enter the track, with no half-day rate. Hmmph, that seemed steep for not much racing left so we and a dozen other folks watched the first raceleaning on the wire fence that the separated the parking area from the outfield. After that the guy working the gate walked along telling people that once they shut down the ticket windown the gates were open so we could just go in. Great! That was mighty kind of him to point that out to everyone. Makes me willing to go out for another day, and pay their full rate if we get there early enough. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007 4:32 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Sep 2 18:49:23 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 20:49:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] vintage races pt 2 Message-ID: <46DB21D3.5044.115027@localhost> Part 2. The racing was spectacular. I don't recall much of the classes, nor the drivers or cars. The announcer gave all the details but the cars on the track didn't always seem to make sense. Even so, it was great. A TR3 started 3rd in the first race we saw, finished a respectable 4th. In one race a Lotus 7 and an Aston Martin battled it out, the Aston starting on the pole (I think) with the Lotus taking him about lap 6 or 7 then moving away for the win. In another a "Chrysler-engined" Allard was chased by an MGB. That seemed like an engine mis-match. Another race included IMSA GT(?) cars and Euro sports racers w/2000 engines. The pole sitter was a turbo-Porsche but much of the field was Chevrons (?). As they came to the green flag the Porsche driver had managed to spin up the turbo and he dragged away from the field. By lap 2 he had a 5-second lead, seemed to stretch it more on the next, IIRC. Then about lap 5 the Chevron driver (a silver car with #3 for those of you who might know), had caught up with him, took him on the esses, and never looked back. Until the very end. As they came down the straight to the finish line the Porsche fired up the turbo and and and... caught him! Or did he? It was a photo finish, way too close to tell by eye. The announcer never did say who won. Dang! That was an exciting finish too. Wish we knew the result. The last race (or was it next-to- last?) featured Corvettes and Mustang Cobras and GTs. Rather noisy, not terribly interesting. Don't recall what won. And did I mention noisy? After the last race we wandered through paddock, spoke to a few folks, saw some wonderful cars close up. Walked out to the parking area, plopped down in some shade to have a picnic dinner, spoke to a few folks asking about the GT6. The trip home was uneventful, peaceful. Listened to the Red Sox game. Kept up with traffic. Saw quite a few ijits (normally spelled i-d-i-o-t-s when they're not driving). The GT6 is ready to go again! It was a great day. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007 4:32 PM From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Sep 2 19:09:00 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 21:09:00 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problems Message-ID: Randall, Took the plugs out and 1 thru 3 are all fouled with gas and carbon/oil. But 4 thru 6 look OK? The Six reminds me of a Motorcycle running on fouled plugs. New looking green wires on the Six. Both Carb pistons are functioning normally. Darrell BTW, same or similar problem occurred with the 250 in June when I first brought it out. New Rotor , Plugs and Gas got that one under control but it really made no sense. Both cars most likely were last filled at the same place ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 2 19:37:40 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 21:37:40 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problems Message-ID: In a message dated 9/2/2007 7:24:15 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > High Maintenance Type Guy Here, Huh? OK, I admit that the Six has not > been > out much this year. Tonight, she darn near left me on the side on the > road. > Running poorly, she quit. No fire! Gas seemed to be present. Called Bev, > > and she coped a rotor out of the 250 and came to the rescue, grand kids in > tow in the Audi. With the 250 rotor the Six fired enough to get her home, > but > just barely as she ran like crap the few miles needed. Got to be > electrical > from sitting! What to look at first? Funny that the rotor from the 250 > made > her fire? I was on my way to get some fresh gas added to the half tank in > her > now of old stuff. > AT LEAST I DID NOT NOT REQIURE A HOOK! > Then the drive was successfull! (That's what they way about landings: any landing you can walk away from is a successfull landing. A really great landing is when you can reuse the plane) That happened to me and it turned out to be the condensor. Those can fail without warning with just those symptoms. And they are easy to swap. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 2 19:50:37 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 21:50:37 EDT Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack Message-ID: In a message dated 9/1/2007 6:32:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: > One thing Rick didn't mention is weight savings. On a TR6, you're removing > 6 > - 1/2 lbs and replacing it with just 8 oz! I won't make any horsepower > increase assumptions but that is a lot of weight the engine doesn't have to > turn anymore. > Removing weight from near the axis of ratation does little to reduse angular momentum. But loosing 6 lbs still helps. Nowm, if I could loose those love handles... Dave From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Sep 2 19:53:20 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 21:53:20 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problems Message-ID: Then the drive was successful! (That's what they way about landings: any landing you can walk away from is a successful landing. A really great landing is when you can reuse the plane) Yes Dave, I feel OK. All landings are nothing more than a controlled crash. The Six died on a slope on Rt 21 but after I pulled to the side on the road I was able to coast back a few hundred yards and back into a Bath Township Park where all I had was Soccer Moms to deal with. Not a bad thing! Beats Semi's whizzing by as I was scratching my head! Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Sun Sep 2 19:55:05 2007 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (R. Ashford Little II) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 21:55:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] head gaskets In-Reply-To: <002401c7ecb5$c68e78d0$e600a8c0@computerroom> References: <002401c7ecb5$c68e78d0$e600a8c0@computerroom> Message-ID: <001601c7edcd$73335110$5999f330$@com> I've tried the copper with little success due to leakage, and didn't really have the confidence in the generic ones compared to the Payen gaskets. That's what I'm running and I've had no problems. R. Ashford Little II '70 TR6 6-Pack Membership Secretary From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 2 20:01:31 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 22:01:31 EDT Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack Message-ID: In a message dated 9/2/2007 8:51:07 PM Central Daylight Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: > Removing weight from near the axis of ratation does little to reduse > angular > momentum. But loosing 6 lbs still helps. Nowm, if I could loose those love > > handles... > Serves me right for typing with one eye closed. Lets try that again: Removing weight from near the axis of rOtation does little to reduCe angular momentum. But loosing 6 lbs still helps. Now, if I could loose those love handles... From pethier at comcast.net Sun Sep 2 20:13:13 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 02:13:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack Message-ID: <090320070213.3705.46DB6DB9000A82E400000E7922070216339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Lets try that again: > Removing weight from near the axis of rOtation does little to reduCe angular > momentum. But [losing] 6 lbs still helps. Now, if I could [lose] those love > handles... :-) -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From 6parts at charter.net Sun Sep 2 20:32:02 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 22:32:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] head gaskets References: <002401c7ecb5$c68e78d0$e600a8c0@computerroom> <001601c7edcd$73335110$5999f330$@com> Message-ID: <00b701c7edd2$9ce532d0$9c07a942@alan> Yo - How long you been running ????????? ----- Original Message ----- From: "R. Ashford Little II" <70tr6 at mindspring.com> To: ; Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 9:55 PM Subject: Re: [TR] head gaskets > I've tried the copper with little success due to leakage, and didn't > really > have the confidence in the generic ones compared to the Payen gaskets. > That's what I'm running and I've had no problems. > > R. Ashford Little II > '70 TR6 > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > _______________________________________________ > tr6parts at earthlink.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/983 - Release Date: 9/1/2007 > 4:20 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Sep 2 20:28:20 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 22:28:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mail Problems Part 2 Message-ID: <000601c7edd2$1a19ec10$210110ac@bobspc> Folks.... Thanks for all the responses. It reminds me of the old Abe Lincoln saying of "you can fool some of the people all of the time, all of the people some of the time BUT you cant fool all of the people all of the time. Bottom line..... Some people get the mail but not all of the people. For some reason I've gotten your responses but haven't always seen my post/reply. Thanks again Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/983 - Release Date: 9/1/2007 4:20 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 2 21:52:43 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 20:52:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problems In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070903035203.QNZH7790.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Darrell wrote : > Took the plugs out and 1 thru 3 are all fouled with gas and carbon/oil. > But 4 thru 6 look OK? > The Six reminds me of a Motorcycle running on fouled plugs. > New looking green wires on the Six. Both Carb pistons are functioning normally. Ok, that sounds more like a stuck float valve on the front carb. I'm becoming more and more convinced that the stuff they sell for gasoline in the US has gotten a lot worse in that regard than it used to be. I've had more stuck float valves in the last 3 or 4 years than in the 20 years before that. And when I pull them apart, I find hard, nearly white stuff that is almost like limestone; rather than the dark gooey "varnish" of years past. Solvents like fresh gas & Gumout won't remove the limestone, you have to scrape or rub it off. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Sep 2 22:07:50 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 00:07:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46DB5056.24086.C6FFCC@localhost> On 2 Sep 2007 at 22:01, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > Serves me right for typing with one eye closed. Lets try > that again:... > But loosing 6 lbs still helps. Now, if I could loose those love > handles... I wonder who or what you might loose them on? :-) Perhaps losing them wood be better. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007 4:32 PM From jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca Sun Sep 2 22:53:26 2007 From: jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca (Jeff Fenwick) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 00:53:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problems References: Message-ID: <006501c7ede6$5dbe6bd0$6601a8c0@jeffgjd000xgs4> Reminds me of my last "beside the road repair" in which I sputtered into a small country cemetery. Well, you didn't think I was going to lie down in the gravel with the cars passing inches away, did you? Very calm and peaceful it was, and as there were no lightning bolts, I have to assume the residents approved ;-) Jeff Darell wrote > The Six died on a slope on Rt 21 but after I pulled to the side on the > road I was > able to coast back a few hundred yards and back into a Bath Township Park > where > all I had was Soccer Moms to deal with. Not a bad thing! Beats Semi's > whizzing by as I was scratching my head! > Darrell From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 2 23:31:23 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 22:31:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack In-Reply-To: <46DB5056.24086.C6FFCC@localhost> Message-ID: <20070903053043.RWAR9920.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > I wonder who or what you might loose them on? :-) Does anyone else hear Jeff Foxworthy saying "Now that's a bad mental image, right there !" ? Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Sep 3 01:15:26 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 02:15:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problems References: <006501c7ede6$5dbe6bd0$6601a8c0@jeffgjd000xgs4> Message-ID: <008101c7edfa$343405e0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > Reminds me of my last "beside the road repair" in which I sputtered > into a small country cemetery. > Well, you didn't think I was going to lie down in the gravel with the > cars passing inches away, did you? > Very calm and peaceful it was, and as there were no lightning bolts, > I have to assume the residents approved ;-) > Jeff I bet people were dying to join you... Mike From jfulle8 at twcny.rr.com Mon Sep 3 05:09:54 2007 From: jfulle8 at twcny.rr.com (jim fuller) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 07:09:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Subject: vintage races Message-ID: <002501c7ee1a$f4df6530$b47ee648@timfulle> Fellow enthusiasts: This weekend 9/7-9/9 there is more vintage racing at Watkins Glen, Upstate NY. Just under 2 hours south and west from Syracuse. Very spectator and family friendly. You are able to sit in any bleachers, wander the race car area, chat with drivers, it is very un-crowded compared to a usual NASCAR weekend at the Glen. Link to event: http://www.svra.com/SVRA/SVRAHome.nsf/weblinks/EJEN-6VFQXN?OpenDocument Jim F From ElangTR4 at aol.com Mon Sep 3 07:36:42 2007 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 09:36:42 EDT Subject: [TR] vintage races Message-ID: Jim and list, Vintage races are a blast. I'm only a spectator, but am fortunate to live an easy drive from Mid-Ohio SCC, Nelson Ledges, and Schenley Park in Pittsburgh. Vintage and SCCA drivers are usually very friendly guys willing to show and tell all about their cars. When my son was younger, some would even invite him to get behind the wheel for a picture. We always make time to walk through the paddock to get closer look at cars we don't see at British cars shows, like Elva Couriers, and Ginettas. One of these years I'd like to do a vintage race tour to other tracks like Road America, Watkins Glen, and Lime Rock. I think the really big one would be to England for the Goodwood Revival. Usually the parking areas make a pretty good car show too as many fans drive their toys to the races. Eric Langreder 71 TR6 Uniontown, Ohio ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ElangTR4 at aol.com Mon Sep 3 07:45:30 2007 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 09:45:30 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Message-ID: Darrell, I know what your problem is; too many cars and not enough road time. I'll stop by and help you exercise some of those poor, neglected TRs. : ^ ) Eric ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Sep 3 08:15:29 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 10:15:29 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problems Message-ID: In a message dated 9/2/2007 11:52:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Ok, that sounds more like a stuck float valve on the front carb. Can a float valve stick closed? Usually I have them stick open and flood the Carb. At first I thought the Six was not getting fuel since the throats of the carbs were dry, neither were flooding. Gas is present from the pump at the carbs. Ran a little better with the choke out. I did a compression test: 1--170 2--160 3--155 4--155 5--165 6--175 Seems a little high and all over the place but at least they are not low. I parked the 250 after VTR because I was getting 120's across the board. The fleet of healthy TR's is getting thinned out here. Yikes! Thanks, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 3 08:30:13 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 14:30:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problems In-Reply-To: <20070903035203.QNZH7790.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: >I'm becoming more and more convinced that the stuff they sell for gasoline >in the US has gotten a lot worse in that regard than it used to be. I long for the days when you could pull up to a pump at a Chevron station and fill you tank with "Custom" at 110 octane. Once in a while I go to the fuel depot and get five gallons of 112 octane racing fuel for my TR3A and it really purrs like a tiger. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ A place for moms to take a break! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 3 08:32:48 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 14:32:48 +0000 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack In-Reply-To: <46DB5056.24086.C6FFCC@localhost> Message-ID: > > But loosing 6 lbs still helps. Now, if I could loose those love > > handles... An effective way to help get rid of the love handles is horse back riding. Try getting an hour or two a week at a rental stable. It is a very effective exercise for the midsection and does require a lot of energy. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Gear up for Halo. 3 with free downloads and an exclusive offer. http://gethalo3gear.com?ocid=SeptemberWLHalo3_MSNHMTxt_1 From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Sep 3 08:56:28 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 14:56:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] vintage races Message-ID: <090320071456.24886.46DC209C0004CC25000061362207021573970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: ElangTR4 at aol.com > One of these years I'd like to do a vintage > race tour to other tracks like Road America, Watkins Glen, and Lime Rock. When you do Road America, come to the VSCDA Vintage Festival in September. Great event, with lots of TRiumphs racing there. When I raced, it was my favorite event. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From ebartle at hbci.com Mon Sep 3 09:02:27 2007 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 10:02:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Winter Storage Message-ID: <20070903100227.quy4z7bokk0wgsoo@webmail.hbci.com> I am already thinking of winter here in Minnesota. This will be the first winter that my TR3A will be in restored condition and I have been cautioned about storing it in a garage that is not heated. It has something to do with moisture condensing on the concrete and creating a rust situation for the car. I would appreciate any comments and suggestions related to storing a classic in the northern climes during winter. Hope everyone is enjoying a fantastic Labor Day weekend. Eric Bartleson Winona,Mn 1959 TR3A From jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca Mon Sep 3 09:04:37 2007 From: jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca (Jeff Fenwick) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 11:04:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] vintage races References: Message-ID: <004d01c7ee3b$bf6b4d30$6601a8c0@jeffgjd000xgs4> You can't beat the atmosphere at the vintage races, and I'd like to add Mosport, about an hour east of Toronto, to the list. The big event there is the last weekend of June, and this year the feature race was for F1 cars. A couple of years ago it was Triumphs which was a real treat, and before that was Volvos ;-) You haven't lived until you've seen a 544 go by at full chat ;-) www.varac.ca $30 for 3 days of racing with full access to the paddock and camping. There's 2 more races this year with mostly modern cars, but the cool thing here is that admittance is *free* with a web ticket from www.casc.on.ca Jeff From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Sep 3 09:27:19 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 11:27:19 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problems Message-ID: In a message dated 9/3/2007 10:16:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: Ok, that sounds more like a stuck float valve on the front carb. Yes Randall something is up with the front carb. I put the plugs on top of the valve cover and all were sparking with the 250's rotor. No sparking with the rotor that went bad, which is a new one to me. I did not know they could blow like that???? The main problem seems to be fuel for once running again I can raise the front piston all the way up with no effect on how the motor runs. Thanks again, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Sep 3 09:28:10 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 11:28:10 EDT Subject: [TR] vintage races Message-ID: In a message dated 9/3/2007 8:37:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, ElangTR4 at aol.com writes: Vintage races are a blast. I'm only a spectator, but am fortunate to live an easy drive from Mid-Ohio SCC, Nelson Ledges, and Schenley Park in Pittsburgh. Vintage and SCCA drivers are usually very friendly guys willing to show and tell all about their cars. When my son was younger, some would even invite him to get behind the wheel for a picture. We always make time to walk through the paddock to get closer look at cars we don't see at British cars shows, like Elva Couriers, and Ginettas. One of these years I'd like to do a vintage race tour to other tracks like Road America, Watkins Glen, and Lime Rock Add The Gold Cup Historic Races at Virginia International Raceway to your "must do" list. _http://www.virclub.com/vir/index.php?option=com_content&task=category§ion id=33&id=133&Itemid=161_ (http://www.virclub.com/vir/index.php?option=com_content&task=category§ionid=33&id=133&Itemid=161) The addition of Burt Levy's "Last Open Road Auto Olympics" this year made a great weekend even better. _http://www.virclub.com/vir/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=211&Item id=159_ (http://www.virclub.com/vir/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=211&Itemid=159) Besides all the Vintage Racing you get a Car Show, parade laps on the big track, a fun rally, and an autocross - for anybody in any car in the "Auto Olympics". Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ElangTR4 at aol.com Mon Sep 3 09:37:55 2007 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 11:37:55 EDT Subject: [TR] vintage races Message-ID: Yeah, and I probably should include Road Atlanta too as being relatively easy drives from Ohio. Mid Ohio also does a car show and parade laps at it's SVRA event in June. I've done so many parade laps there I feel pretty good about my "line". It's really fun to watch races from Mid Ohio on TV because I know what to look for. Eric ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Mon Sep 3 11:23:57 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 19:23:57 +0200 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack References: Message-ID: <003a01c7ee4f$3675def0$0500a8c0@Study> >loose those love handles.......... Suggest soaking them in PB Blaster or WD40 overnight and then try wiggling them back and forth with the correct spanner. If that fails try using heat and a BFH. You might want to take a painkiller first, perhaps one of those single malts which made the list a little while back. HTH David Brister 1967 TR4A. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5161 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Sep 3 12:28:43 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 14:28:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Z/S 175 CD float adjustment Message-ID: Hey Guys, Due to the TR6 problems both Z/S's are on the bench. Randall was right, the front Carb had no gas in it and I swear I saw a sliver of rubber go thru the float needle valve as I blew it out. Renewed it as a matter of course, but now I have a chance to fool around some. The Six likes to run out of gas during hard right hand turns on an autocross course. It will chug until the suspension settles. Book says: .625 to .672 or 16 to 17 mm float height adjustment, both must be the same. I am going to say I have them set on the high side now. What should I do to correct this problem? Believe me this "chug" can make a difference. I have a whole bunch of 2nd's and 3rd's in stock. 250 does the same thing! I know switch to SU's, but then I can't run stock. Cheers, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Sep 3 13:08:24 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 15:08:24 EDT Subject: [TR] Z/S 175 CD float adjustment Message-ID: In a message dated 9/3/2007 1:29:13 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: The Six likes to run out of gas during hard right hand turns on an autocross course. It will chug until the suspension settles. Book says: .625 to .672 or 16 to 17 mm float height adjustment, both must be the same. I am going to say I have them set on the high side now. What should I do to correct this problem? Believe me this "chug" can make a difference. I have a whole bunch of 2nd's and 3rd's in stock. 250 does the same thing! Darrell - I've been autocrossing my stock TR6 10 or 12 times a year for 3 years now and I have NEVER had that happen. My floats are set by the book. You might have some other problem. Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Sep 3 13:33:23 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 15:33:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Georgia more progressive than California? Message-ID: <000601c7ee61$71ec52e0$75bb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, Merry Labor Day. I had hoped to mount a rollbar on my TR3 and put additional taillights on it for visibility. However, I am not sure that this will be allowed in Georgia (I have not checked 'with the boys downtown yet'). The Rulebook seems to say that lights (?) need to be from 16" to 30" high (and my gas cap is 36" off the ground!). I can't even find mention of 'rollbars'. Am I reading things wrong? Is Georgia more progressive than California? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Sep 3 14:03:32 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 16:03:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Georgia more progressive than California? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/3/2007 2:34:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, dorpaul at negia.net writes: I had hoped to mount a rollbar on my TR3 and put additional taillights on it for visibility. However, I am not sure that this will be allowed in Georgia (I have not checked 'with the boys downtown yet'). The Rulebook seems to say that lights (?) need to be from 16" to 30" high (and my gas cap is 36" off the ground!). I can't even find mention of 'rollbars'. Am I reading things wrong? maybe, maybe not but, since there are NO inspection stickers, NO safety inspections in the State of Georgia, I can't imagine that would ever be a problem Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Sep 3 14:25:37 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 16:25:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help ==Torque==1958 T/R 3A Message-ID: <004e01c7ee68$9718c1a0$42147247@fred8kwiskhcfu> List, I am in need of the correct torqueing value of the starter dog bolt on the front pulley, this is for a T/R 3A, many thanks "FT" From ggelhar at earthlink.net Mon Sep 3 14:53:51 2007 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 15:53:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Winter Storage Message-ID: <380-22007913205351390@earthlink.net> Eric, Here is what I have been doing for the last fifteen years with great success. My cars are stored in my unheated garage but I make sure to put one of those cheap blue tarps under each car in addition the cars are setting on sets of those car skates that make moving them around easier. The tarps become a moisture barrier between the car and concrete. The skates elevate the cars up off the cold floor. The cars are clean and freshly waxed, the tops erected, fuel tanks full, and given a fresh oil change, and the batteries moved to the basement workshop. Indoor car covers are put in place until Spring comes. I don't do anything else as I consider this as long term parking versus long term storage. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN .. > Subject: [TR] Winter Storage > > I am already thinking of winter here in Minnesota. This will be the > first winter that my TR3A will be in restored condition and I have > been cautioned about storing it in a garage that is not heated. It has > something to do with moisture condensing on the concrete and creating > a rust situation for the car. I would appreciate any comments and > suggestions related to storing a classic in the northern climes during > winter. Hope everyone is enjoying a fantastic Labor Day weekend. > > Eric Bartleson > Winona,Mn > > 1959 TR3A From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 3 14:59:40 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 16:59:40 EDT Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack Message-ID: In a message dated 9/2/2007 11:08:10 PM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > I wonder who or what you might loose them on? :-) > > Perhaps losing them wood be better. Yes, it WOULD. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 3 15:08:30 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 17:08:30 EDT Subject: [TR] Winter Storage Message-ID: In a message dated 9/3/2007 10:01:55 AM Central Daylight Time, ebartle at hbci.com writes: > I am already thinking of winter here in Minnesota. This will be the > first winter that my TR3A will be in restored condition and I have > been cautioned about storing it in a garage that is not heated. It has > something to do with moisture condensing on the concrete and creating > a rust situation for the car. I would appreciate any comments and > suggestions related to storing a classic in the northern climes during > winter. Hope everyone is enjoying a fantastic Labor Day weekend. > One trick is to find some cast off carpet. The carpet will insulate the concrete so that there will be less condensation. Refrigerator boxes work, too. If you have an open attic in your garage you could mount a ceiling fan on a timer that will pull down the accumulating heat from the roof down onto the concrete which will warm up the concrete and reduce condensation. This works well for me in my detached garage. But I use a cast off furnace blower. On a timer. It runs from noon to 5:00 or thereabouts. Dave From KingR44916 at aol.com Mon Sep 3 15:30:34 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 17:30:34 EDT Subject: [TR] painting Message-ID: anyone have any experience in painting their car ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From pethier at comcast.net Mon Sep 3 17:34:53 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 23:34:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] Georgia more progressive than California? Message-ID: <090320072334.4954.46DC9A1D000983620000135A22070229339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Paul Dorsey" > List, > Merry Labor Day. > > I had hoped to mount a rollbar on my TR3 and put additional taillights on it > for visibility. However, I am not sure that this will be allowed in Georgia > (I have not checked 'with the boys downtown yet'). > The Rulebook seems to say that lights (?) need to be from 16" to 30" high That's weird. There are new cars (not to mention postal trucks) with the taillights higher than that. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Mon Sep 3 17:46:53 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 23:46:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] Winter Storage Message-ID: <090320072346.19056.46DC9CED0000DA3700004A7022070229339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Dave1massey at cs.com > In a message dated 9/3/2007 10:01:55 AM Central Daylight Time, > ebartle at hbci.com writes: > > I am already thinking of winter here in Minnesota. This will be the > If you have an open attic in your garage you could mount a ceiling fan on a > timer that will pull down the accumulating heat from the roof LOL! You don't live in Minnesota, do you? -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 3 18:28:00 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 17:28:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Georgia more progressive than California? In-Reply-To: <000601c7ee61$71ec52e0$75bb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070904002720.PIIG7790.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > The Rulebook seems to say that lights (?) need to be from > 16" to 30" high (and my gas cap is 36" off the ground!). I > can't even find mention of 'rollbars'. Am I reading things wrong? Just a WAG (I have no idea of the laws in Georgia), but I would guess that you must have at least two stop lamps that meet that rule. However, you may have additional lamps in other places. So as long as you keep the originals functional, you should have no problem. Rules in CA are basically that the primary two stop lamps must be between 15" and 72" from the road. Additional lamps can be basically anywhere. > Is Georgia more progressive than California? Depends entirely on your definition of progressive. In many ways, I consider the People's Republic of California to be rather repressive Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 3 18:35:55 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 17:35:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Z/S 175 CD float adjustment In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070904003514.PVJZ7790.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Book says: .625 to .672 > or 16 to 17 mm float height adjustment, So, which one did you use ? 16mm is .630" and 17mm is .669". > I am going to say I have them set on the high side > now. Since height is measured above the float, setting the measurement high results in a low fuel level. If you are "running out" of fuel rather than getting too much, you might try setting the float height on the low side. > What should I do to correct this problem? I'm too lazy to look it up, but ISTR there being something about this problem in the "Competition Preparation" manual. Maybe it was for an SU carb, but IMO it would be worth looking up. Randall From FordneyNJ at aol.com Mon Sep 3 18:43:01 2007 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 20:43:01 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 problem Message-ID: Have a similar problem on my TR4A. Friday night on the way to meet fellow club members for fish and chips, the car sputtered to a stop. Sounded like it was out of gas, gauge showed 1/4 tank. Put another gallon in. It would almost catch, seem to cough on a cylinder or two. Tried a spare cap, rotor and wires and check points, no difference. Flat bed home. Now, I've changed coils, checked ignition timing and gone through the carbs. Compression checked at 175 to 180 lbs. I'll pick up a new condenser tomorrow. Any thoughts or ideas on what else I should try? Rodney Ford TR4A 4A CTC 60538L TR7 400612 ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dncullig at us.ibm.com Sun Sep 2 20:41:02 2007 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 22:41:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] vintage race day pt 1 Message-ID: "Jim Muller" wrote: >They wanted $45 apiece to enter the track A spectator ticket for the weekend is $135!!! I was there Friday - it was "only" $20 to get in but most of the vendors weren't there nor were half the cars. The price for this event at Lime Rock has gone up every year since Steve Earl got involved. It would be OK if the quality and quantity of the race cars increased at the same time, but that hasn't happened. It has also gotten so expensive for the racers that the fields continue to dwindle. I'll keep going to the non-public events at LRP (like VSCCA weekends) and be a flagger and get in free. Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Mon Sep 3 19:18:55 2007 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 18:18:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 problem References: Message-ID: <00d001c7ee91$95b93500$8701a8c0@Dell> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 5:43 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 problem > Have a similar problem on my TR4A. Friday night on the way to meet fellow > club members for fish and chips, the car sputtered to a stop. Sounded like > it > was out of gas, gauge showed 1/4 tank. Put another gallon in. It would > almost > catch, seem to cough on a cylinder or two. Tried a spare cap, rotor and > wires > and check points, no difference. Flat bed home. Now, I've changed coils, > checked ignition timing and gone through the carbs. Compression checked > at 175 > to 180 lbs. I'll pick up a new condenser tomorrow. Any thoughts or ideas > on > what else I should try? > > Rodney Ford > TR4A 4A CTC 60538L > TR7 400612 > How did you check the carbs? Are they getting fuel? If it sounded like it was running out of gas, maybe it was - could be fuel pump or fuel filter or a blocked fuel line. Bob From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Sep 3 19:37:12 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 21:37:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Subject: vintage races In-Reply-To: <002501c7ee1a$f4df6530$b47ee648@timfulle> References: <002501c7ee1a$f4df6530$b47ee648@timfulle> Message-ID: <001101c7ee94$1de0c9f0$284d3b47@Scott> I'll be there with the TR6, with about 10 other CPTC members. An annual trek that even my wife looks forward to! Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jim fuller Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 7:10 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Subject: vintage races Fellow enthusiasts: This weekend 9/7-9/9 there is more vintage racing at Watkins Glen, Upstate NY. Just under 2 hours south and west from Syracuse. Very spectator and family friendly. You are able to sit in any bleachers, wander the race car area, chat with drivers, it is very un-crowded compared to a usual NASCAR weekend at the Glen. Link to event: http://www.svra.com/SVRA/SVRAHome.nsf/weblinks/EJEN-6VFQXN?OpenDocument Jim F This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Sep 3 19:52:22 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 19:52:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] Z/S 175 CD float adjustment In-Reply-To: <20070904003514.PVJZ7790.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070904003514.PVJZ7790.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <46DCBA56.3060805@tscusa.org> Randall wrote: >> Book says: .625 to .672 >> or 16 to 17 mm float height adjustment, >> > > So, which one did you use ? 16mm is .630" and 17mm is .669". > > >> I am going to say I have them set on the high side >> now. >> > > Since height is measured above the float, setting the measurement high > results in a low fuel level. If you are "running out" of fuel rather than > getting too much, you might try setting the float height on the low side. > > >> What should I do to correct this problem? >> > > I'm too lazy to look it up, but ISTR there being something about this > problem in the "Competition Preparation" manual. Maybe it was for an SU > carb, but IMO it would be worth looking up. > > Randall > The millimeter measurements are correct, the conversions to inches are wrong in 4 of the 5 repair manuals -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 3 19:56:01 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 18:56:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070904015520.WXVQ14324.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > Any > thoughts or ideas on what else I should try? One of the tricks I've learned is to give the carbs a sniff of starting fluid or carb cleaner immediately before (or while) cranking the engine. If it makes a big change, the problem is likely lack of fuel. In fact, you can usually get the engine to run for a few seconds this way, even if it isn't getting any fuel at all through the normal route. If it makes no difference at all, the problem might be too much fuel, but more likely is ignition, IMO. Randall From wbmcleod at cox.net Mon Sep 3 19:58:46 2007 From: wbmcleod at cox.net (William McLeod) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 18:58:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph parts on ebay Message-ID: <46DCBBD6.2050208@cox.net> In a burst of shameless self-promotion, now that I am back from the east coast, I have put and am putting on some rare and no longer available NOS parts, including a reversing lamp for the TR4 (original option), a couple of flamethrower NOS lights (not up yet) and various other items. Keep an eye out! I am slightlyclassics on ebay. Thanks, apologies and all that stuff. Bill Slightly Classics Tucson, AZ From 60TR3A at cox.net Mon Sep 3 22:31:27 2007 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 21:31:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Winter Storage??? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: What are you guys talking about?? Storing your TR in the winter?? That is the best time to drive it!!! Put the top down & let the the fun begin! Well, at least if you live in Phoenix! John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From fishplate at charter.net Mon Sep 3 22:55:48 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 00:55:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Georgia more progressive than California? In-Reply-To: <000601c7ee61$71ec52e0$75bb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <000601c7ee61$71ec52e0$75bb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070904045552.MBZO495.aarprv02.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 03:33 PM 9/3/2007, you wrote: >I had hoped to mount a rollbar on my TR3 and put additional taillights on it >for visibility. However, I am not sure that this will be allowed in Georgia >(I have not checked 'with the boys downtown yet'). > The Rulebook seems to say that lights (?) need to be from 16" to 30" high >(and my gas cap is 36" off the ground!). I can't even find mention of >'rollbars'. Am I reading things wrong? I can't imagine that our friends in Law Enforcement have nothing better to do than chase an old TR through the streets of Jawja with tape measure in hand... As long as you don't do anything to warrant their attention, you shouldn't have any problem. I don't believe you'll have any problem. Further, take a look at http://www.lexis-nexis.com/hottopics/gacode/ -- this is Lexis-Nexis' copy of the Official Code of Georgia. Title 40, chapter 8, Part 2 is where you need to look. Among other things, see Section 40-8-23 (c): Every taillight upon every vehicle shall be located at a height of not more than 60 inches nor less than 20 inches, to be measured as set forth in subsection (b) of Code Section 40-8-21. I couldn't find roll bars mentioned anywhere... >Is Georgia more progressive than California? Less persnickety, maybe... Cheers, Jeff Scarbrough -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.3/986 - Release Date: 9/3/2007 9:31 AM From banc8004 at comcast.net Tue Sep 4 03:17:15 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 05:17:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem > TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <83DFEFD2-0348-46D4-A4F0-DA14AD371F54@comcast.net> > Have a similar problem on my TR4A. Friday night on the way to meet > fellow > club members for fish and chips, the car sputtered to a stop. > Sounded like it > was out of gas, gauge showed 1/4 tank. Put another gallon in. It > would almost > catch, seem to cough on a cylinder or two. Tried a spare cap, > rotor and wires > and check points, no difference. Flat bed home. Now, I've changed > coils, > checked ignition timing and gone through the carbs. Compression > checked at 175 > to 180 lbs. I'll pick up a new condenser tomorrow. Any thoughts > or ideas on > what else I should try? > > Rodney Ford Well, you need three things to fire; spark, fuel and compression, and you've confirmed the compression. Sputtering to a stop sounds like fuel starvation. Do you have fuel at the carbs? If not, check pump and fuel filter. If fuel is OK, it must be electrical. Do you have a spark at the plug? All plugs? Are the plugs fouled? Is the dizzy OK? Is the low- tension wire at the coil OK? I've read here that they are prone to failure. Is your engine ground OK? Let us know how you get on. Brian TR4 From DLylis at aol.com Tue Sep 4 05:07:18 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 07:07:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Winter Storage??? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/3/2007 11:31:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 60TR3A at cox.net writes: Well, at least if you live in Phoenix! Or Florida. Of course, down here you don't get the thrill of going up and down hills and around corners very much! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From DLylis at aol.com Tue Sep 4 05:10:06 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 07:10:06 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem > TR4A Message-ID: Add to the list: Make sure your points are not shorted. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 4 05:32:57 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 07:32:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Winter Storage Message-ID: In a message dated 9/3/2007 6:47:05 PM Central Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > >If you have an open attic in your garage you could mount a ceiling fan on > a > >timer that will pull down the accumulating heat from the roof > > LOL! > You don't live in Minnesota, do you? > > It's all relative (humidity). If it is 10 degrees out you can get 10 - 15 degrees warmer in the garage which will lower the relative humidity and reduce condensation. The real problem comes during the warm fronts of which St. Louis has plenty. A cold spell will chill the concrete and when the warm front moves in with it's higher humidity content the floor will get wet. Moving the attic air down to the floor will warm the concrete and minimize condensation. Works great. Dave From tedtsimx at bright.net Tue Sep 4 18:35:06 2007 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 20:35:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Subject: vintage races In-Reply-To: <001101c7ee94$1de0c9f0$284d3b47@Scott> References: <002501c7ee1a$f4df6530$b47ee648@timfulle> <001101c7ee94$1de0c9f0$284d3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <46DDF9BA.20404@bright.net> Scott Suhring wrote: > I'll be there with the TR6, with about 10 other CPTC members. An annual > trek that even my wife looks forward to! > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3 > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf > Of jim fuller > Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 7:10 AM > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Subject: vintage races > > Fellow enthusiasts: This weekend 9/7-9/9 there is more vintage racing at > Watkins Glen, Upstate NY. Just under 2 hours south and west from Syracuse. > Very spectator and family friendly. You are able to sit in any bleachers, > wander the race car area, chat with drivers, it is very un-crowded compared > to > a usual NASCAR weekend at the Glen. > > Link to event: > http://www.svra.com/SVRA/SVRAHome.nsf/weblinks/EJEN-6VFQXN?OpenDocument > > Jim F > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > _______________________________________________ > tedtsimx at bright.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > We will have a booth set up at Watkins Glen. Come see us in the vendor area if you have a chance. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Sep 4 07:03:04 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 09:03:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] PLASTIC 'beehive' stand-alone unit Message-ID: <000601c7eef3$f0458520$f10360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> NAPA part 1001D is a complete independant taillight with a 90% identical but (PLASTIC) 'beehive lens' for a TR3. This unit has both lens and mounting base and is the correct size and styling for a TR3's (other model or makes?), however, the len's plastic flanges are different and will not interchange. I believe they come in red and amber and cost about $6. They would proably be ideal for making a 'period-styled' third-brake-light or suction-cup-turn-signal (rather than the 3" round thing-but would be slightly smaller). I had hoped to mount them on my rollbar if Georgia law allows me. FYI, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From FordneyNJ at aol.com Tue Sep 4 07:28:50 2007 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 09:28:50 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem - TR4A Message-ID: The float bowls were full. Plugs not fouled, three very good , one(#3) was a little darker. Low tension wire was replaced last winter and I'll replace it again to be sure. I think the engine is grounded properly, but I will check. Tonight,after I replace the condenser, I'll check every thing again Rodney. ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Sep 4 08:07:59 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 10:07:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] PLASTIC 'beehive' stand-alone unit In-Reply-To: <000601c7eef3$f0458520$f10360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <000601c7eef3$f0458520$f10360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8C9BD14225FB4D9-C10-8C61@webmail-dd07.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Paul Dorsey NAPA part 1001D is a complete independant taillight with a 90% identical but (PLASTIC) 'beehive lens' for a TR3. This unit has both lens and mounting base and is the correct size and styling for a TR3's (other model or makes?), however, the len's plastic flanges are different and will not interchange. I believe they come in red and amber and cost about $6.... ==AM== Wow, I must be getting older than I thought. I remember when those were about 49 cents at Western Auto and similar stores, back in the late 1960s. We had a couple (one white and one amber) on the front of my Dad's Herald as a temporary fix until I could get hold of a "proper" replacement side lamp after a collision. I think those two lamps might still be somewhere in the attic of my mom's garage.... :-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 4 08:37:00 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 07:37:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] PLASTIC 'beehive' stand-alone unit In-Reply-To: <000601c7eef3$f0458520$f10360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070904143619.VKQD7790.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > NAPA part 1001D is a complete independant taillight with a > 90% identical but > (PLASTIC) 'beehive lens' for a TR3. This unit has both lens > and mounting base and is the correct size and styling for a > TR3's (other model or makes?), however, the len's plastic > flanges are different and will not interchange. Funny, it used to be they would actually fit the Lucas holder on a TR3A. I used them as replacements before I knew about Moss & TRF. Didn't fit very well, but they would stay in place. Randall From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 4 08:38:35 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:38:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] Georgia more progressive than California? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: No, it is just less burocratic (sp). Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get a FREE small business Web site and more from Microsoft. Office Live! http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0930003811mrt/direct/01/ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 4 08:42:14 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:42:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] Winter Storage In-Reply-To: <380-22007913205351390@earthlink.net> Message-ID: One thing you can do in a unheated garage is use dehumidifiers. Your local drug store probably sells the kind that is crystals you put in a container. They suck moisture out of the air but need to be replaced periodically. I use to store my racing engines this way. You may also find an electric dehumidifier. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Discover sweet stuff waiting for you at the Messenger Cafe. Claim your treat today! http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline2 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 4 08:47:33 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:47:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: If your condenser is burned out and you run points you can check the color of the spark at the points for diagnosis. If the condenser is bad the spark at the points will be yellow when they open. If it is goof the spark will be blue. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ A place for moms to take a break! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From Ssandberg at MEDIATECH-INC.COM Tue Sep 4 08:57:39 2007 From: Ssandberg at MEDIATECH-INC.COM (Stephen Sandberg) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 10:57:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] painting Message-ID: I painted my TR7 in my garage with a paint booth made out of plastic sheeting and a 5hp sears air compressor. it came out great on some panels and good on others the best advice is the painting is straightforward. but the work is in the prep. basically it needs to be perfect before you paint. Also all of the stuff you need paint guns safety gear sandpaper filler paint comes close to a paint job. >>> 09/03 5:30 PM >>> anyone have any experience in painting their car ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ ssandberg at mediatech-inc.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Sep 4 09:15:05 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 11:15:05 EDT Subject: [TR] Z/S 175 CD float adjustment Message-ID: In a message dated 9/3/2007 7:35:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > So, which one did you use ? 16mm is .630" and 17mm is .669". > I am using the .625 since my Starret ruler does not have mm, but I have them higher than that. I am going to take a mm ruler from work and set them at the minimum 16mm. That being said it is sort of difficult for my old eyes to see exactly what I am looking at up that close! Honest Injun, both the Six and the 250 run out of gas momentarily during extreme cornering at high RPM's. I can't remember if it is left handers or right handers. Another age related problem I suppose. Regards, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From spitlist at cox.net Tue Sep 4 09:33:39 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 08:33:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Winter Storage References: Message-ID: <003801c7ef08$f7c4dfc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Just be careful (VERY CAREFUL) using that stuff. It turns to liquid once the christals have absorbed all the moisture that they can. If you don't realize this, you might have a tendencyto spill the liquid inside your car when you take it out. Don't ask how I found that out! Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: ; ; Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 7:42 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Storage > One thing you can do in a unheated garage is use dehumidifiers. Your local > drug store probably sells the kind that is crystals you put in a container. > They suck moisture out of the air but need to be replaced periodically. I > use to store my racing engines this way. You may also find an electric > dehumidifier. > > > > Best regards, > Tom > > _________________________________________________________________ > Discover sweet stuff waiting for you at the Messenger Cafe. Claim your > treat today! > http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline2 > _______________________________________________ > spitlist at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Sep 4 10:05:07 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 12:05:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Z/S 175 CD float adjustment In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000701c7ef0d$604dc030$210110ac@bobspc> Check out Frank Fischer's float adjustment tool (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm) It works way better then the cardboard templates they send with the rebuild kits. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 11:15 AM To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Z/S 175 CD float adjustment In a message dated 9/3/2007 7:35:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > So, which one did you use ? 16mm is .630" and 17mm is .669". > I am using the .625 since my Starret ruler does not have mm, but I have them higher than that. I am going to take a mm ruler from work and set them at the minimum 16mm. That being said it is sort of difficult for my old eyes to see exactly what I am looking at up that close! Honest Injun, both the Six and the 250 run out of gas momentarily during extreme cornering at high RPM's. I can't remember if it is left handers or right handers. Another age related problem I suppose. Regards, Darrell No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.3/986 - Release Date: 9/3/2007 9:31 AM From bdischer at blakedischer.com Tue Sep 4 12:14:08 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 14:14:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Battle of the Brits In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <014601c7ef1f$6498f940$0201a8c0@bjdtr3a> Sunday, Sept 9th. http://detroittriumph.org/BTOB2006/BOTB2006.htm Cheers, Blake -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Timbo00001 at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 11:18 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Battle of the Brits When is this being held in Sterling Heights, MI? From willgray at vaxxine.com Tue Sep 4 13:06:31 2007 From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett and Carol Gray) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 15:06:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Re. Winter Storage Message-ID: Suggestions I have heard include adding fuel stabilizer to the gas tank and a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil (!) to each cylinder. Comments? Dave From dncullig at us.ibm.com Tue Sep 4 14:08:45 2007 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:08:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Subject: vintage races Message-ID: jim fuller wrote: >Fellow enthusiasts: This weekend 9/7-9/9 there is more vintage racing at >Watkins Glen, Upstate NY. Just under 2 hours south and west from Syracuse. >Very spectator and family friendly. You are able to sit in any bleachers, >wander the race car area, chat with drivers, it is very un-crowded compared to >a usual NASCAR weekend at the Glen. >Link to event: >http://www.svra.com/SVRA/SVRAHome.nsf/weblinks/EJEN-6VFQXN?OpenDocument Just to add to the above - If you are planning to attend, make every effort to get there Friday for the Grand Prix Festival in 'downtown' Watkins Glen. Lots of vendors, music, food, a Concours, etc. The race cars come down into town around 4:30PM and park on Franklin St. and then around 6:00 there is a race re-enactment as held back in 1948-1951 - on public roads and streets! It's then party time in town 'till the fireworks are over at around 9:30. There's a Car Show at the track on Saturday and non-stop Vintage racing all 3 days, usually with very large fields (30-50 cars), not the 7-15 cars that were in each race at Lime Rock Park this past weekend. A reliable source said there were over 100 LESS race cars at LRP this year than last! It was pathetic, especially considering the admi$$ion cost. Dennis Culligan, Highland NY /1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH (I'll be there.) From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Sep 4 14:53:47 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:53:47 EDT Subject: [TR] Z/S 175 CD float adjustment Message-ID: In a message dated 9/3/2007 11:29:36 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: Book says: .625 to .672 or 16 to 17 mm float height adjustment, both must be the same. I am going to say I have them set on the high side now. Darrell, I have my ZS's (all 3 of them) set at 17mm and I've never had a problem.....I think you need into another cause....keeping in mind the old "80% rule" - 80% of fuel problems turn out to be electrical! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From skip47 at powernet.net Tue Sep 4 15:16:54 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 14:16:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Re. Winter Storage References: Message-ID: <012301c7ef38$ec2408a0$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Hi David- Here's something from Purdue: (actually http://www.cfs.purdue.edu/extension/pdf/gaspump-handout-long.pdf ) "If the gasoline will not be used for four to six months, will be exposed to direct sunlight, or will be stored much of the time at temperatures above 80-deg.F, add a fuel sabilizer/additive to the gasoline when you first buy it. Furel stabilizers contain antioxidants, which lprevent gum and other compounds from forming in gasoline; biocides, which prevent microbial growth; and corrosion inhibitors, which prevent the formation of rust and corrosion. Fuel stabilizers/additives are available at auto parts stores. Freshness of the gasoline is improved if the containor or gas tank is stored in a cool place and is kept about 95% full. However, leave some headroom for gasoline to expand if it warms up in storage. Without an air space, expansion will force liquid gasoline out of the container or distort the container." As for Marvel mystery oil, why not put a little on top of the pistons? It won't hurt, and will help to slow corrosion and keep rings unstuck. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 65 TR4A TVR (using stabilizer in the race gas) ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Willett and Carol Gray" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 12:06 PM Subject: [TR] Re. Winter Storage > Suggestions I have heard include adding fuel stabilizer to the gas > tank and a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil (!) to each cylinder. > Comments? > > Dave From FordneyNJ at aol.com Tue Sep 4 15:39:02 2007 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 17:39:02 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 Message-ID: Stopped at Moss here in NJ today and got a new condenser and LT wire. The monza exhaust is once again barking. I really have to quiet it down some. Thanks to all for the help and support. I was starting to feel down. Rodney Ford ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 4 15:55:06 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 14:55:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Re. Winter Storage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <021d01c7ef3e$4190fbe0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Suggestions I have heard include adding fuel stabilizer to the gas > tank and a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil (!) to each cylinder. Adding some sort of lubricant isn't a bad idea, but I wouldn't think MMO would be optimal. Instead I'd be looking for something with some 'body' to it, so it won't run off and leave the polished surfaces bare. Something more like Cosmolene or motorcycle chain lube. Never had any trouble myself, but I have seen engines where the rings rusted to the cylinders and did a lot of damage. Friend of mine's freshly rebuilt MGA motor totally seized after spending a few months parked in my yard. After many years of soaking in various oils & pounding with a variety of BFH; he finally had to break one of the pistons to get it out. Don't think he ever did get that engine to run again. If you do add oil to the cylinders, I'd suggest putting the plugs back in only loosely, and leaving the plug wires disconnected. Then in the spring, add some more oil to the cylinders and spin the engine with the starter until the oil pressure comes up (thereby spreading the oil in the cylinders and also ensuring there is no excess) before putting the plugs back and connecting them. Randall From trbobtr at yahoo.com Tue Sep 4 16:43:47 2007 From: trbobtr at yahoo.com (Bob Rolfes) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 15:43:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Winter Storage Message-ID: <849315.96672.qm@web90615.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I cannot speak about the moisture absorbing crystals, but a electrical dehumidifier might have a little problem icing up in an unheated garage in the middle of winter. Things can get very chilly up here in the north-land, even in the garage. Bob (living just slightly to the right of Minnesota) --------------------------------- Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Sep 4 16:55:14 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 18:55:14 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 Message-ID: Guys, Real happy to see Rodney found that a new condenser made his TR4A bark again. The TR6 is all good too! Just took it out for a run of 21.2 miles. I got in 8 gallons of Sunoco 94 and she is behaving herself very nicely. BTW, the mm ruler works out a lot better for the float adjustment. Kind of takes the guesswork out of it. I suppose I should change the fuel filter since it appears that little rubber silvers are getting by which caused the fuel shut off of the front Z/S. I found a few more of them in the bottoms of the float bowls. I am still a little bothered by these blown rotors. I have for instance never had a condenser go bad to my knowledge in 27 years of Triumph motoring. Same to be said for coils. I bet I have had a half dozen rotors go south on me during that time. What's up wit that? Thanks a bunch, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From buja at insightbb.com Tue Sep 4 17:03:39 2007 From: buja at insightbb.com (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 18:03:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Z/S 175 CD float adjustment In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Darrell wrote: > the Six and the 250 run out of gas momentarily during extreme cornering at > high RPM's. I can't remember if it is left handers or right handers. Another > age related problem I suppose. Don't forget that changing the float height will change the mixture unless you also change the needle position. If you raise the fuel depth in the bowl by decreasing the float height, less "depression" will be needed to suck an equivalent amount of fuel up the jet and around the needle, and your engine will run richer. Conversely, increasing the float height will lower the fuel depth in the bowl, more "depression" will be needed to draw the fuel up the jet, and the engine will run leaner. The float height is the coarse adjustment, and the needle (or jet) position is the fine adjustment. Have you considered that your problem may be electrical? If your engine is under heavy load in a high speed turn, you may be breaking a connection somewhere. I would think fuel issues would take multiple tens of seconds to appear, while electrical issues are pretty much instantaneous. Of course, I could be completely wrong here... Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue Sep 4 17:10:00 2007 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:10:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] removing gasket goo Message-ID: The stags oil pan is not completely flat on the top that mounts to the block. It like this ______/--------\____ What product will remove gasket goo? I've scraped off what I can with a knife , but there is some stuff left on the sides which I can't get too very easily Sujit From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Sep 4 17:14:10 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 19:14:10 EDT Subject: [TR] removing gasket goo Message-ID: sujit, I have used oven cleaner, paint remover, wire brush in a hand drill and propane torch at different times. Mike Moore How's your head? ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Sep 4 17:36:16 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 19:36:16 EDT Subject: [TR] Z/S 175 CD float adjustment Message-ID: In a message dated 9/4/2007 7:03:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, buja at insightbb.com writes: Have you considered that your problem may be electrical? Hey Tim, Not sure. I just know it is with both cars. I let Bob Palmer autox my 250 several times and he was always complaining that it would cough during hard corners, at high RPM of course because we are always in first gear. Dang if the TR6 didn't do the same thing! I believe I was setting the floats too high on both. I set the Six at 16 mm, down from 17mm. Time will tell once given the opportunity. Ha, that may be several years since the GT6 + and Spitfire MK 3 are my cars of choice for this event. Cheers, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 4 17:37:03 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:37:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] removing gasket goo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <023001c7ef4c$7f1983c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > What product will remove gasket goo? I picked up a can of Loctite "Gasket Chisel" spray that seems to work reasonably well. Spray it on and let it soak for a bit, it will loosen the top layer. Then scrape/wipe that off, lather rinse & repeat until you are down to clean metal. Seemed like it would dissolve shellac & RTV without attacking steel or alloy; had a somewhat lesser effect on gasket material but would soften that as well. I'm kind of impatient, so it might work better if you let it soak longer. Got mine from MMC : http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3303 tho no doubt there are cheaper places. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Tue Sep 4 17:39:14 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:39:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] removing gasket goo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601c7ef4c$cd7a0f30$2202a8c0@newcomputer> I use a wire brush wheel on my power drill. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of sujit roy Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 4:10 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] removing gasket goo The stags oil pan is not completely flat on the top that mounts to the block. It like this ______/--------\____ What product will remove gasket goo? I've scraped off what I can with a knife , but there is some stuff left on the sides which I can't get too very easily Sujit From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Sep 4 17:38:56 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 17:38:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] removing gasket goo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46DDEC90.6030008@tscusa.org> sujit roy wrote: > The stags oil pan is not completely flat on the top that mounts to the > block. It like this ______/--------\____ > > What product will remove gasket goo? I've scraped off what I can with a > knife , but there is some stuff left on the sides which I can't get too > very easily > > Sujit > It depends on what the "goo" actually is. If it is silicon rubber/RTV type material, you need to peel and scrape it off. If it is a setting hardening type, you can get a spray on gasket remover at any autoparts store or chip it off with a sharp edged scraper like a wood chisel. If it is non setting Hylomar, you sort of roll it off sticking together into a ball like rubber cement. When you go to place your cork gasket on, go get the pressurized tube of "The Right Stuff". Make sure the edges of the pan are not bent by checking it on a known flat surface. Seal the cork gasket to the pan, place it on a known flat surface (Formica kitchen counter top works well) overnight with a cement block on top of it. When you are ready to bolt the pan in place, spread a thin coat of The Right Stuff on the top side of the cork gasket then install the pan onto the block. Alternatively, you can use The Right Stuff as a complete cork gasket replacement, your pan will never leak if it is straight. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Sep 4 17:47:34 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 00:47:34 +0100 Subject: [TR] Re. Winter Storage References: <021d01c7ef3e$4190fbe0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <016201c7ef4d$f7f6b7d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> I'll drink to all that Randall has suggested, only adding that if you live in an area where damp is a foregone conclusion, the application of WaxOyl (or a similar) product into the hidden crevices of the body is an excellent idea. Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 10:55 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Re. Winter Storage >> Suggestions I have heard include adding fuel stabilizer to the gas >> tank and a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil (!) to each cylinder. > > Adding some sort of lubricant isn't a bad idea, but I wouldn't think MMO > would be optimal. Instead I'd be looking for something with some 'body' > to > it, so it won't run off and leave the polished surfaces bare. Something > more like Cosmolene or motorcycle chain lube. > > Never had any trouble myself, but I have seen engines where the rings > rusted > to the cylinders and did a lot of damage. Friend of mine's freshly > rebuilt > MGA motor totally seized after spending a few months parked in my yard. > After many years of soaking in various oils & pounding with a variety of > BFH; he finally had to break one of the pistons to get it out. Don't > think > he ever did get that engine to run again. > > If you do add oil to the cylinders, I'd suggest putting the plugs back in > only loosely, and leaving the plug wires disconnected. Then in the > spring, > add some more oil to the cylinders and spin the engine with the starter > until the oil pressure comes up (thereby spreading the oil in the > cylinders > and also ensuring there is no excess) before putting the plugs back and > connecting them. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Sep 4 17:50:08 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 19:50:08 EDT Subject: [TR] No More Redlines Message-ID: Hey Guys, Not sure if this is out here yet, but FYI Michelin Redlines are "No More". Coker Tire is fresh out and they are not expected to be manufactured again. According to their sales department "the European Market defines what is needed and right now demand for this tire is very low". In the same breath the sales guy told me I could get a bunch of money for the 4 brand new ones I have that I purchased last year. Nope, they are for the TR250. Current personal inventory: 4 as new never mounted. 5 on the Six 2 years old. 5 on the 250 need replaced. 5 in reserve, good shape but sell by date way expired. 5 Goodyear G-800's, all "Trunk Tires" but only for show. Got you guys covered a little bit if needed, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 4 17:55:58 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:55:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <023a01c7ef4f$23c4bfa0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I suppose I should change the fuel > filter since it > appears that little rubber silvers are getting by which > caused the fuel shut off Another possibility is that the soft lines between the filter & the carbs are starting to deteriorate & shed. I've had that happen several times with soft lines that appear fine at first, but on closer examination show tiny cracks, especially when they are flexed. The (original ?) cloth-covered ones are worst, since you cannot easily see the condition of the rubber. In that case, take one off and look at the end where the rubber is exposed between the cloth and the bore. If you see any cracks, it's ready to be replaced. > I bet I have had a > half dozen rotors go south > on me during that time. What's up wit that? The original design may actually have been just a tad weak in this area. If you approximate the distance through the middle of the rotor, from the contact arm to the center post of the distributor, I think it turns out to be the shortest route to ground found anywhere in the high tension system except for the actual plug tips. The other cars I've owned have been arranged to make this distance much larger. IMO the popularity of Lucas Sports coils and other ignition "upgrades" just aggravates the problem. Even the stock coil & points is capable of generating more voltage than it takes to jump the combined plug gap and rotor/cap gap; so effectively those two gaps limit system voltage no matter how much the coil is capable of. But, if there is a problem with the plug or plug wire; or if you run wider than stock plug gaps either intentionally or by not resetting the gaps as often, then the voltage rises until it is either limited by the coil/points capability or goes to ground somewhere else. If it jumps the path through the rotor to the dizzy shaft, then it will damage the plastic of the rotor, leaving a "carbon track" that will conduct easier next time. Eventually it becomes the easiest path to ground all the time, and the engine will no longer run at all. Another problem seems to be that many modern replacement rotors are made of lower quality plastic than the originals were. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 4 17:59:32 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:59:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] No More Redlines In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <023b01c7ef4f$a3460b80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > right now demand for this tire is very low". Part of the reason may be that other sources now offer sidewall stripes in your choice of color (including red) on any tire. IOW, you can have "red lines" on a more modern, higher performance tire than those antique Michelins. And if you chose to get them on a new Michelin tire, it's going to take a very determined judge to notice that they aren't the right model Michelin. Randall From frank at ssabsa.sa.gov.au Tue Sep 4 18:05:21 2007 From: frank at ssabsa.sa.gov.au (Biedermann, Frank (SSABSA)) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 09:35:21 +0930 Subject: [TR] Z/S 175 CD float adjustment In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3DE968EA77F2F24DB241177F2C5E768B04EC8A1A@sagemsg0027.sagemsmrd01.sa.gov.au> Darrell wrote: > the Six and the 250 run out of gas momentarily during extreme > cornering at high RPM's. I can't remember if it is left > handers or right handers. Another age related problem I suppose. I don't think that's age related. I've experienced that problem before too - particularly on longish corners. It's due to fuel starvation since the tank in my TR6 (at the very least) does not have a baffle, so in a reasonable sized left hander the fuel all runs away from the outlet on the bottom left of the tank. You can get around the problem by 1. Not turning left; or 2. if you really must turn left, keep your tank reasonably full; or 3. installing a baffle in the tank (one for the pros I think) or a baffled tank; or 4. installing a swirl pot below the main tank (~ 1 litre of fuel should see you through all but the longest left handers ;-). Frank Biedermann 69 Triumph TR6 PI Adelaide, Australia From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Sep 4 20:28:48 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 22:28:48 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 Message-ID: In a message dated 9/4/2007 7:56:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: IMO the popularity of Lucas Sports coils and other ignition "upgrades" just aggravates the problem Randall, Hummmm, I have a Lucas red top Sports Coil on the Six. It was present when I purchased the car and I have continued to run that type although I have replaced it with one that has a cool original decal. For years I ran the Six with an original Lucas rotor with no problems. At VTR in Richmond the original went South due to a broken locating pin. Really made the Six run crappy so I had to put a replacement type in. That one blew up on the Fun Rallye at Richmond as I pulled into the Parking Deck. Remember that Dave? Now I have another blown rotor, replacement type after a few thousand miles???? Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Sep 4 21:27:02 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 23:27:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] PLASTIC 'beehive' stand-alone unit References: <20070904143619.VKQD7790.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <002001c7ef6c$a1f34690$f10360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I haven't really ever beheld an assembled 'beehive light', that is at the same time as 'knowing' what it was I was behold'n. Mine are in boxes. I did slip the TR3A's metallic ring over the NAPA unit and the flange caught it correctly- but- still I was reluctant to say they 'interchanged'. Remember- I bought an abandoned project. I've never operated my Triumph. My friends and family think, "it gives him something to do... We don't think those things really run". The time it's taking seemingly is proving them right. I know... I could be fishing or collecting stamps. Thanks, Paul Dorsey ORIGINAL POST: > NAPA part 1001D is a complete independant taillight with a > 90% identical but > (PLASTIC) 'beehive lens' for a TR3. This unit has both lens > and mounting base and is the correct size and styling for a > TR3's (other model or makes?), however, the len's plastic > flanges are different and will not interchange. Funny, it used to be they would actually fit the Lucas holder on a TR3A. I used them as replacements before I knew about Moss & TRF. Didn't fit very well, but they would stay in place. Randall _______________________________________________ From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Wed Sep 5 01:39:32 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 02:39:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] No More Redlines In-Reply-To: <023b01c7ef4f$a3460b80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <023b01c7ef4f$a3460b80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <200709050739.l857dfl2119842@ns3.geneseo.net> There is another approach that can be used to make a "red Line" tire. Several years ago, a tire shop in California (I think their name had 'wire wheel' in it) would mill a groove in the sidewall of any tire. I had them do this and then I painted the stripe in. The stripes have lasted five years, 20,000 miles. I had to mask off that stripe area to get it right. I asked my local body shop for the right chemicals. They have a special cleaner for the rubber, and I think they used the paint that is normally used on flexible front end parts. That way, you can do this with any size and shape tire you want. At 06:59 PM 9/4/2007, Randall wrote: > > right now demand for this tire is very low". > >Part of the reason may be that other sources now offer sidewall stripes in >your choice of color (including red) on any tire. IOW, you can have "red >lines" on a more modern, higher performance tire than those antique >Michelins. > >And if you chose to get them on a new Michelin tire, it's going to take a >very determined judge to notice that they aren't the right model Michelin. > >Randall >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Wed Sep 5 01:49:32 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 02:49:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] rotors Message-ID: <200709050749.l857nfei117513@ns3.geneseo.net> I've posted this before, but some folks apparently haven't seen it -- new rotors fail with alarming regularity on vintage race cars and I also went through about four of them on my street TR6. The sure-fire fix is to purchase new rotors from World Wide Auto Parts in Madison Wisconsin http://www.nosimport.com/ They don't show them on the website but they have them, and they are cheap - under $5 as I recall uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From ahealey56 at aol.com Wed Sep 5 04:08:07 2007 From: ahealey56 at aol.com (ahealey56 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 06:08:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <8C9BDBBCA3A16B6-9CC-6D23@webmail-dd11.sysops.aol.com> If any of you are able to attend?the vintage weekend?at Watkins?look for a?Florida green/white?"56 Austin Healey 100M. The car will be?parked on the main street of town Friday afternoon. If my wife is around offer her your sympathy because her TR-3 should have been parked next to the Healey. Engine rebuild has been dragged out for an extra 3 months for lack of decent parts (meaning quality parts) and after that a small crack in the cylinder head. I am grateful for the help that many of you offered when I was looking for another?cylinder head. Stop and say hello. ????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Ken ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Sep 5 06:07:29 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 08:07:29 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 Message-ID: In a message dated 9/4/2007 9:29:18 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > Hummmm, I have a Lucas red top Sports Coil on the Six. It was present > when > I purchased the car and I have continued to run that type although I have > replaced it with one that has a cool original decal. For years I ran the > Six > with an original Lucas rotor with no problems. At VTR in Richmond the > original > went South due to a broken locating pin. Really made the Six run crappy so > > I had to put a replacement type in. That one blew up on the Fun Rallye at > Richmond as I pulled into the Parking Deck. Remember that Dave? Now I > have > another blown rotor, replacement type after a few thousand miles???? > I don't remember that but I remember swapping rotors on a TR6 on the Dinner drive. I lost two rotors in close succession on the TR8. I carry several spares at all times. And I heard of an Austin Healey owner replacing his rotor twice (or more) in the same day. I also heard a story of a car that would idle OK but when the throttle was opened it would stumble and die. What was happening was with the throttle closed the voltage required to jump the spark plug gap was lower but as the throttle was opened and the pressure in the cylinder increased the voltage required to jump the gap increased to the point that the rotor started to break down. But it sure acted like a fuel problem. Rotors are cheap, small, and easy to replace. The argument against carrying several spares is pretty weak. Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Sep 5 06:09:24 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 12:09:24 +0000 Subject: [TR] Winter Storage In-Reply-To: <003801c7ef08$f7c4dfc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: I wouldn't put the canisters of dehumidifier in my car. I would set a couple of them on each side and under it. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger Cafi. http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline1 From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Sep 5 06:10:41 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 08:10:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] No More Redlines References: <023b01c7ef4f$a3460b80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <200709050739.l857dfl2119842@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <003c01c7efb5$c801d1f0$db1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> You can also check with a "used-car lot" to find out if this service is available locally, we have about 3 companys doing this service for car lots here in N. Va. "FT" From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Sep 5 06:31:01 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 12:31:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] removing gasket goo In-Reply-To: Message-ID: >What product will remove gasket goo? I've scraped off what I can with a >knife , but there is some stuff left on the sides which I can't get too >very easily. Try using a spray can of Goof Off. You can get it at your local hardware store. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ A place for moms to take a break! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Sep 5 06:35:27 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 12:35:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 In-Reply-To: <023a01c7ef4f$23c4bfa0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: > I suppose I should change the fuel > > filter since it > > appears that little rubber silvers are getting by which > > caused the fuel shut off. I had this problem with rubber core steel braid line from my gas tank. It was old line I had saved for years. The debri was plugging up my fuel filter. I replaced it with new line. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Discover sweet stuff waiting for you at the Messenger Cafe. Claim your treat today! http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline2 From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Sep 5 08:35:42 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 10:35:42 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 Message-ID: In a message dated 9/5/2007 7:08:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: > Rotors are cheap, small, and easy to replace. The argument against > carrying > several spares is pretty weak. > Dave, That is a for sure. I usually carry a whole tune up kit in the glovebox. Got caught w/o a spare since I am blowing them so frequently. Just ordered 4 more yesterday. I only drove the Six to work today because I found a used Roto that works for the glovebox stash. Cheers, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From hdrider570 at peoplepc.com Wed Sep 5 08:49:38 2007 From: hdrider570 at peoplepc.com (hdrider570 at peoplepc.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 07:49:38 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [TR] PLASTIC 'beehive' stand-alone unit Message-ID: <19020448.1189003778715.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I have fitted a set of aftermarket lens to original Bee Hive light bases. The lens base is slightly larger than the original. As such the lens will fit but the secondary chrome ring will not as the glass lens has pushed the rubber too far aou. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Sep 5 08:51:44 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 10:51:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 References: Message-ID: <00f101c7efcc$473ff850$db1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> In my travel kit I have a distributor top plate with the points, condenser and rotor already in place, saves a lot of time and trouble if needed on the road side "FT" From fishplate at charter.net Wed Sep 5 09:25:20 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 11:25:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 In-Reply-To: <00f101c7efcc$473ff850$db1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <20070905112520.HDVJK.368907.root@fepweb13> ---- FRED E THOMAS wrote: > In my travel kit I have a distributor top plate with the points, condenser > and rotor already in place, saves a lot of time and trouble if needed on the > road side "FT" I just carry a roll of duct tape and some baling wire. If all else fails, I'll just hook some wire from the coil to the cockpit and recruit my passenger to touch the wires together repeatedly to make sparks at the appropriate time... Jeff Scarbrough Be Prepared, Ga. P.S. FT, how do you mount the rotor on the top plate? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 5 10:05:03 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 09:05:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 In-Reply-To: <00f101c7efcc$473ff850$db1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <20070905160421.XHAA14340.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > In my travel kit I have a distributor top plate with the > points, condenser and rotor already in place, saves a lot of > time and trouble if needed on the road side "FT" On long trips, I've started packing an entire dizzy, including cap & wires, in the center of the spare tire (along with a Facet electric fuel pump). Only time I've ever needed it was when I didn't have it; so I guess it's like a good luck charm Randall From Btmfdchn at aol.com Wed Sep 5 10:55:00 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 12:55:00 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 Message-ID: In a message dated 9/4/2007 4:56:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Another problem seems to be that many modern replacement rotors are made of lower quality plastic than the originals were. Randall Greetings... I've heard the good rotors are the one that say "made in Italy". I've bought them from AutoZone. The plastic looks different and I've not had one fail. The Italian caps also appear to be thicker. I've also found the only points with a lubrication wick are from Standard Motor Parts and sold by CarQuest. Makes good sparkies for me. TJ ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed Sep 5 12:39:09 2007 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 14:39:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rotor failure; things to carry with you In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I lost two rotors in close succession on the TR8. I carry several spares at all times. And I heard of an Austin Healey owner replacing his rotor twice (or more) in the same day. Dave As a 'get you home', with a rotor that is grounding through its cap to the distributor spindle, a blob of dielectric grease inside the cap of the rotor can stop the charge dissipating through to the body of the distributor (at least it did for me, in an emergency). Actually an interesting thread for me would be what tools and spares we feel are worth keeping with the car. I bring a few more items with me for a longer trip, but would be interested hear about those on the list with far more experience would recommend. If we can reach any kind of consensus, I'll happily collate it and provide it to the list. Here's my list anyway - its more than I thought, now I come to put it down: 1) ITEMS TO BRING ON EVERY JOURNEY Spare wheel Scissor jack from a Mazda (small, effortless to use, fits inside spare wheel) Fan belt 2 spark plugs Dizzy parts: cap, rotor, condenser, points Bulbs: brake, tail, turn, headlight Oil: 1 Qt. Tools: selection of sockets, pliers, spanners, screwdriver, feeler gauge 3 pieces of wire, different lengths Tape: duct, black electrical Wire ties Halatron extinguisher Tyre plugging kit Oil filter Cell phone Roadside Recovery membership card Cut-down air compressor First aid kit (too small to be much use) Flashlight Tow rope Knife Electrical diagram, TR4 2) ITEMS TO BRING ON LONGER JOURNEYS (>100 MILES) All the above Water Brake fluid Thermostat Radiator cap Extender bar with 1/2" end for sockets Upper/lower radiator hoses Multimeter Brian TR4 1963 Valley Forge, PA From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Sep 5 15:08:21 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 17:08:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rotor failure; things to carry with you References: Message-ID: <002601c7f000$e47249f0$db1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Plus == water pump == fuel pump==1 qt gear/tranny fluid==hose clamps=tube of glue==tube epoxy==assorted gaskets==gasket cement==ignition key (2)==inner tube==, starter==emergency phone nunbers along the route==fluid lines==1 gal water >I lost two rotors in close succession on the TR8. I carry several spares > at > all times. And I heard of an Austin Healey owner replacing his rotor > twice > (or more) in the same day. > > Dave > > As a 'get you home', with a rotor that is grounding through its cap to the > distributor spindle, a blob of dielectric grease inside the cap of the > rotor can stop the charge dissipating through to the body of the > distributor (at least it did for me, in an emergency). > > Actually an interesting thread for me would be what tools and spares we > feel are worth keeping with the car. I bring a few more items with me for > a longer trip, but would be interested hear about those on the list with > far more experience would recommend. If we can reach any kind of > consensus, I'll happily collate it and provide it to the list. > > Here's my list anyway - its more than I thought, now I come to put it > down: > > > 1) ITEMS TO BRING ON EVERY JOURNEY > Spare wheel > Scissor jack from a Mazda (small, effortless to use, fits inside spare > wheel) > Fan belt > 2 spark plugs > Dizzy parts: cap, rotor, condenser, points > Bulbs: brake, tail, turn, headlight > Oil: 1 Qt. > Tools: selection of sockets, pliers, spanners, screwdriver, feeler gauge > 3 pieces of wire, different lengths > Tape: duct, black electrical > Wire ties > Halatron extinguisher > Tyre plugging kit > Oil filter > Cell phone > Roadside Recovery membership card > Cut-down air compressor > First aid kit (too small to be much use) > Flashlight > Tow rope > Knife > Electrical diagram, TR4 > > > 2) ITEMS TO BRING ON LONGER JOURNEYS (>100 MILES) > All the above > Water > Brake fluid > Thermostat > Radiator cap > Extender bar with 1/2" end for sockets > Upper/lower radiator hoses > Multimeter > > Brian > TR4 1963 > Valley Forge, PA > _______________________________________________ > frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Sep 5 16:04:58 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 18:04:58 EDT Subject: [TR] Rotor failure; things to carry with you Message-ID: There is a design problem with the newer rotors sold as Lucas. I would buy new ones from the Distributor Doc n the UK. He has good ones. The ones commonly sold today arc between the shaft and the rivet which is too closely spaced. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Sep 5 18:01:50 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 20:01:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 In-Reply-To: <20070905112520.HDVJK.368907.root@fepweb13> References: <00f101c7efcc$473ff850$db1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <46DF0B2E.13998.278B053@localhost> On 5 Sep 2007 at 11:25, fishplate at charter.net wrote: > If all else fails, I'll just hook some wire from the coil to > the cockpit and recruit my passenger to touch the wires together > repeatedly to make sparks at the appropriate time... I just have someone follow me towing the spare Triumph. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 10:36 PM From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Sep 5 18:09:29 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 00:09:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] Winter Storage??? Message-ID: <090620070009.8133.46DF4539000583CA00001FC522165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > Or Florida. Of course, down here you don't get the thrill of going up and > down hills and around corners very much! > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO Wait a minute. TR's can go UP hill???? Terry Smith New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Sep 5 18:26:31 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 00:26:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 Message-ID: <090620070026.29811.46DF4937000683E20000747322165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > The original design may actually have been just a tad weak in this area. If > you approximate the distance through the middle of the rotor, from the > contact arm to the center post of the distributor, I think it turns out to > be the shortest route to ground found anywhere in the high tension system > except for the actual plug tips. The other cars I've owned have been > arranged to make this distance much larger. > > IMO the popularity of Lucas Sports coils and other ignition "upgrades" just > aggravates the problem. Even the stock coil & points is capable of > generating more voltage than it takes to jump the combined plug gap and > rotor/cap gap; so effectively those two gaps limit system voltage no matter > how much the coil is capable of. But, if there is a problem with the plug > or plug wire; or if you run wider than stock plug gaps either intentionally > or by not resetting the gaps as often, then the voltage rises until it is > either limited by the coil/points capability or goes to ground somewhere > else. If it jumps the path through the rotor to the dizzy shaft, then it > will damage the plastic of the rotor, leaving a "carbon track" that will > conduct easier next time. Eventually it becomes the easiest path to ground > all the time, and the engine will no longer run at all. Randall, do I have in my notes that you once suggested using dieletric goop when mounting the rotor to confuse this tendancy to ground? Terry From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Sep 5 18:31:20 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 00:31:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] Stowe, VT Message-ID: <090620070031.23800.46DF4A5800020A1900005CF822165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Does anyone know the Stowe, VT dates for this year? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New H ampshire From steven at newellboys.com Wed Sep 5 18:34:48 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 17:34:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rotor failure; things to carry with you In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46DF4B28.2040307@newellboys.com> Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com wrote: >Actually an interesting thread for me would be what tools and spares we >feel are worth keeping with the car. I bring a few more items with me for >a longer trip, but would be interested hear about those on the list with >far more experience would recommend. If we can reach any kind of >consensus, I'll happily collate it and provide it to the list. > Here's a link with photos for my road trip toolkit. http://www.newellboys.com/trdriver/toolkit.html In regular driving I carry a small tool box (wrenches, sockets, pliers, screwdrivers, corkscrew) plus a few metric wrenches for other cars, a small bag with tuning tools in case I feel like tuning the carbs while waiting for my lovely wife to shop for shoes or something, and another small bag with miscellaneous gaskets, clamps, ignition bits and switches. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 etc. From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Sep 5 19:36:45 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 21:36:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stowe, VT In-Reply-To: <090620070031.23800.46DF4A5800020A1900005CF822165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <46DF216D.30360.2CF98F5@localhost> On 6 Sep 2007 at 0:31, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Does anyone know the Stowe, VT dates for this year? Sept 14-16. See www.britishinvasion.com Unfortunately we can't make it. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 10:36 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Sep 5 20:15:12 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 22:15:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stowe, VT In-Reply-To: <46DF216D.30360.2CF98F5@localhost> References: <090620070031.23800.46DF4A5800020A1900005CF822165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> <46DF216D.30360.2CF98F5@localhost> Message-ID: <002201c7f02b$c3592dd0$210110ac@bobspc> My registration form is in so I'll be there! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Stowe, VT On 6 Sep 2007 at 0:31, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Does anyone know the Stowe, VT dates for this year? Sept 14-16. See www.britishinvasion.com Unfortunately we can't make it. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 10:36 PM _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 10:36 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 10:36 PM From triumphstag at gmail.com Wed Sep 5 22:57:25 2007 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 21:57:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] removing gasket goo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Tom, Goof Off worked like a tread and with very little effort. I had someof the non-spray can type in the garage. Thanks, Sujit On 9/5/07, tom white wrote: > > > >What product will remove gasket goo? I've scraped off what I can with a > >knife , but there is some stuff left on the sides which I can't get too > >very easily. > > Try using a spray can of Goof Off. You can get it at your local hardware > store. > > > Best regards, > Tom > > _________________________________________________________________ > A place for moms to take a break! > http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From patton at suscom-maine.net Thu Sep 6 00:49:10 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 02:49:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stowe, VT In-Reply-To: <002201c7f02b$c3592dd0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: I wouldn't miss it for the world! Rick Patton 75 TR6sci http://sidedrafttbi.com/ > -----Original Message----- > > Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 10:15 PM > To: jimmuller at rcn.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Stowe, VT > > > My registration form is in so I'll be there! > > Bob Danielson snip From nwolf at u.washington.edu Thu Sep 6 00:58:41 2007 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 23:58:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Rotor failure; things to carry with you Message-ID: Indeed, you wouldn't want to get stuck without a corkscrew! -Nick 64-ish TR4 > From: Steven Newell > In regular driving I carry a small tool box (wrenches, sockets, pliers, > screwdrivers, corkscrew)... From nwolf at u.washington.edu Thu Sep 6 01:16:01 2007 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 00:16:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Replacing wheel studs in TR4 rear hubs - To pull or not to pull? Message-ID: Hi listers I am half way through swapping out the stubby wire-wheel studs for longer disc-wheel studs on my TR4 (Fronts are done, rears not started yet). The rear studs on the '4 are threaded into the hub, but the backside of each one is "peened" so you have to grind a bit off before it will unscrew. My question is: Should I pull the hubs? I looked through the list archives, and opinion seems to be mixed regarding the accessibility of the back of the hub without pulling it, and also the likelihood of successfully removing a hub without bending it. I don't have the proper Churchill hub puller, but I do have a heavy-duty wheel puller that would grab onto all four lugs. I also have a Dremel tool. And a corkscrew, if it comes to that. Pull? Don't pull? Drive around with wire wheels on one axle and alloy wheels on the other? Thanks -Nick Wolf 64-ish TR4 Ben Lomond, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 6 01:45:38 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 00:45:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replacing wheel studs in TR4 rear hubs - To pull or not to pull? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070906074456.KNLR14324.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > The rear studs on the '4 are threaded into the hub, but > the backside of each one is "peened" so you have to grind a > bit off before it will unscrew. > My question is: Should I pull the hubs? I'd first take a stab at doing it with the hubs still on the car. Taking the brake shoes off might give you enough room to work in there with a Dremel. If not, I'd remove the hubs & halfshafts as an assembly (6 bolts into the bearing housing). With them off the car, you should have no problem. But, if that still isn't enough room, ship the halfshafts off to someone with the right tool to break them down. Even grabbing all 4 lugs isn't good enough, the puller also has to support the hub ... and even then it sometimes winds up distorted from what I've heard. Randall From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Sep 6 06:12:33 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 12:12:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 In-Reply-To: <20070905112520.HDVJK.368907.root@fepweb13> Message-ID: >In my travel kit I have a distributor top plate with the points, condenser > > and rotor already in place, saves a lot of time and trouble if needed on >the > > road side "FT" All I carry is a can of lighter fluid and a match. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Can you find the hidden words? Take a break and play Seekadoo! http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_hotmailtextlink1 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Sep 6 06:21:38 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 12:21:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] Winter Storage??? In-Reply-To: <090620070009.8133.46DF4539000583CA00001FC522165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: > > Or Florida. Of course, down here you don't get the thrill of going up >and > > down hills and around corners very much! > >Wait a minute. TR's can go UP hill???? Sure they can go up hill. All you have to do is find a nice steep grade and tip the flatbed driver. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Can you find the hidden words? Take a break and play Seekadoo! http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_hotmailtextlink1 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 5 22:01:50 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 21:01:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Problem, TR4 In-Reply-To: <090620070026.29811.46DF4937000683E20000747322165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20070906040108.SORU14340.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Randall, do I have in my notes that you once suggested using > dieletric goop when mounting the rotor to confuse this > tendancy to ground? Nope, wasn't me. It might help; but I didn't say that. Randall From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 6 07:04:24 2007 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 06:04:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR250 Alternator Conversion Message-ID: <253922.8637.qm@web37515.mail.mud.yahoo.com> List Members- I need to replace the original alternator on my TR250. I would like to install the Bosch unit but I'm having trouble finding the right one at my local parts houses (O'Reilly & Autozone). Has anyone done this conversion? I also have a NAPA and CarQuest nearby. If you have a p/n from those places, I could go check with them. TIA! Chad From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 6 08:51:56 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 07:51:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR250 Alternator Conversion In-Reply-To: <253922.8637.qm@web37515.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20070906145113.EONT14207.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > I need to replace the original alternator on my TR250. > I would like to install the Bosch unit but I'm having > trouble finding the right one at my local parts houses > (O'Reilly & Autozone). Chad, I'm not sure it fits a TR250. The TR250 had an externally regulated alternator, like the early Stag, and at least the Stag unit (11AC) takes different mountings than the later ACR (internally regulated) Lucas alternators. Obviously the wiring is different, too. Since the advantage of the Bosch unit is that it takes the same plug as the TR6, but you won't have that plug (which I consider a weak spot); I would suggest that you look into one of the other conversion alternators (like a Delco 12Si or CS130) with an output stud instead of a quick connect. Check out http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator/conversions.shtml for more info. > I also have a NAPA and CarQuest nearby. If you have a p/n > from those places, I could go check with them. NAPA should have no trouble at all looking up an alternator for a 78-80 Ford Fiesta, with AC (or some books list it as "with Bosch alternator" or "heavy duty electrical"). Certainly my local store had no trouble with it. Some other part numbers that might work : Ford (?) D8RZ-10346-AX Beck-Arnley number is 186-0137 http://catservices.wrencheadpro.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/BAR/bar_186-0 137.htm Apparently AC-Delco has it under 334-1058 Bosch 0-120-489-048 Bosch 0-120-489-090 Bosch 0-120-489-091 Bosch 0-120-489-093 Bosch 0-120-489-244 Bosch 0-120-489-345 Bosch 0-120-489-666 Bosch 0-120-489-667 Bosch 0-120-489-801 Bosch 0-120-489-843 Bosch 0-120-489-844 Bosch 0-120-489-958 Bosch 0-120-489-959 HTH Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Sep 6 11:26:04 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 13:26:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Herald on Top Gear Message-ID: <000301c7f0ab$01f00710$210110ac@bobspc> Did anyone catch the Top Gear episode where they each had to build an amphibious car? One put a 250HP Honda outboard on the tailgate of a ToyBoata HiLux which worked pretty well until he turned too fast, took on water and rolled over. Another used a VW Vanagon but he sheared off the prop on entering the water...but it did float well. The last guy took a Triumph Herald and added a mast, sail and rudder and it worked great. His only problem was the clutch got wrecked in the water so he couldn't drive the car out. The show is back and funnier then ever. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.6/991 - Release Date: 9/5/2007 2:55 PM From jdinnis at gmail.com Thu Sep 6 12:50:58 2007 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 13:50:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph Herald on Top Gear In-Reply-To: <000301c7f0ab$01f00710$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000301c7f0ab$01f00710$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Yep it was a great episode! But I think James May's Herald clutch was wrecked long before he hit the water. Somethins about an extra ton of weight. Oh and the VW? Only floated for about 10 minutes. Then it sank to the bottom. On 9/6/07, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > Did anyone catch the Top Gear episode where they each had to build an > amphibious car? One put a 250HP Honda outboard on the tailgate of a ToyBoata > HiLux which worked pretty well until he turned too fast, took on water and > rolled over. Another used a VW Vanagon but he sheared off the prop on > entering the water...but it did float well. The last guy took a Triumph > Herald and added a mast, sail and rudder and it worked great. His only > problem was the clutch got wrecked in the water so he couldn't drive the car > out. The show is back and funnier then ever. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.6/991 - Release Date: 9/5/2007 > 2:55 PM > > _______________________________________________ > jdinnis at gmail.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From KingR44916 at aol.com Thu Sep 6 15:16:22 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 17:16:22 EDT Subject: [TR] fender Message-ID: i have a 76 tr6 and i need a left front fender i'm in new york in rockland co anyone have one let me know .going to britfest at moss in nj this sat ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Sep 6 17:44:26 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 23:44:26 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Distributor Message-ID: <090620072344.5482.46E090DA0008414B0000156A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> My '59 TR3A has a DM-2 dizzy. Uncle Dave at TRF gave me the bad news that no Petronix models are made to fit it. Unfortunately, neither do any of the readily available points sets, probably because the previous owner swapped out the original plate with something else. I can squirrel points to fit, but am sick of the aggravation. ...So, to replace the dizzy, is there a more common variety that takes points and Petronix and is easily available? I'd rather not spend $500 for a high end Mallory. As ever, am kneeling obsequiously begging for advice.... :o) Terry Smith New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 6 18:24:29 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 17:24:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Distributor In-Reply-To: <090620072344.5482.46E090DA0008414B0000156A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <090620072344.5482.46E090DA0008414B0000156A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000301c7f0e5$74b2cb40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > My '59 TR3A has a DM-2 dizzy. Uncle Dave at TRF gave me the > bad news that no Petronix models are made to fit it. Huh ? Then why does TRF's catalog list P/N PTR101, as "Pertronix, TR2 models with positive ground and Lucas model DM2 distributors" ? http://www.zeni.net/trf/feature/10.php?s_wt=1152&s_ht=864 > Unfortunately, neither do any of the readily available points > sets, probably because the previous owner swapped out the > original plate with something else. I can squirrel points to > fit, but am sick of the aggravation. So, if that's the only problem, why not source a point plate ? If memory serves, the point plate from a 25D4 should drop right in; and allow you to use your choice of either positive or negative ground Pertronix units, or even points if you want. Used 25D4 dizzys frequently sell on eBay for under $20 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=160155197322 (that one's for an MG obviously, but the point plate and most other parts are the same for all 25D4) Another choice would be to fit a Crane XR700, which is "one size fits all", to your existing dizzy. It's more trouble to fit, but should work fine even with your mystery point plate. > ...So, to replace the dizzy, is there a more common variety > that takes points and Petronix and is easily available? What about a Lucas 25D4 ? Ask around your local club, I'll bet someone has one they'll part with cheap. Randall From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Sep 6 21:04:02 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 23:04:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] fuse block mounting Message-ID: <00a401c7f0fb$c05a7640$f10360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> For the third or forth time now, I've said these exact words: "I'm on the final reinstallment of my wiring loom and ..." This time I'm getting close to write. TeriAnn's Bulkhead Identifaction chart found at: http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/Bulkhead.htm shows the fuse block mounting hole to be #2. Seems funny that it is about 1/2" when the hole in the fuse block is less than 1/4"? Am I missing something here?... maybe a rubber plug? Also, it's two fuses are mounted vertical, right? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A (TS 71318L) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 6 23:24:05 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 22:24:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] fuse block mounting In-Reply-To: <00a401c7f0fb$c05a7640$f10360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070907052322.JDSA14340.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > TeriAnn's Bulkhead Identifaction chart found at: > http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/Bulkhead.htm > shows the fuse block mounting hole to be #2. Seems funny > that it is about 1/2" when the hole in the fuse block is less > than 1/4"? Am I missing something here?... maybe a rubber plug? I believe there is a metal clip that goes into the hole in the body, that forms the threads for the screw that holds the fuse block. Same clip is used for other things like the regulator (control box). > Also, it's two fuses are mounted vertical, right? Yes. FWIW, there is a typo on the page referenced above. Where it says "post-6000 bulkhead", I pretty sure TeriAnn meant "post-60000 bulkhead". But what's a zero among friends Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Sep 7 02:21:59 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 09:21:59 +0100 Subject: [TR] Triumph Herald on Top Gear References: <000301c7f0ab$01f00710$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <020101c7f128$2968d330$0201a8c0@Bevan> The last guy took a Triumph > Herald and added a mast, sail and rudder and it worked great. His only > problem was the clutch got wrecked in the water so he couldn't drive the > car > out. Surely Top Gear selected the Herald because of its proven qualities of no resistance to H2O? ISTR this ability was only tested from cloud deposits rather than immersion? Seems to me they must have added tons of dum-dum to keep the water on the right side of the *hull.* Jonmac From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Sep 7 05:59:10 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 11:59:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumph Herald on Top Gear In-Reply-To: <000301c7f0ab$01f00710$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: What network , day and time is Top Gear on? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Gear up for Halo. 3 with free downloads and an exclusive offer. http://gethalo3gear.com?ocid=SeptemberWLHalo3_MSNHMTxt_1 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Sep 7 06:07:29 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 12:07:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Distributor In-Reply-To: <090620072344.5482.46E090DA0008414B0000156A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: Why not spend $150.00 and get the electronic dizzy that comes out of Germany. You can email them at this address: info at brits-n-pieces.com Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Gear up for Halo. 3 with free downloads and an exclusive offer. http://gethalo3gear.com?ocid=SeptemberWLHalo3_MSNHMTxt_1 From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Sep 7 06:30:18 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 07:30:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph Herald on Top Gear References: Message-ID: <003001c7f14a$dbd63130$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:59 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Herald on Top Gear > What network , day and time is Top Gear on? > It is now on BBC America. I saw it over the weekend, but I think it is repeated ad nauseam as most of BBC America's shows are. You could check their website for the schedule: www.bbcamerica.com I must say, as an English ex-pat I am very disappointed with most of the programming on BBC America. Apart from a few good crime/mystery shows, Top Gear, and the original Office, much of it is reruns of reality crap and Benny Hill (which was never even a BBC production!). Why do I want to watch two daft old crones cleaning somebody else's house? Mike From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Fri Sep 7 07:00:50 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 09:00:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Herald on Top Gear In-Reply-To: <003001c7f14a$dbd63130$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07576BF0@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Just switch to watching PBS. It seems their programmers feel that, without the huge amount of BBC content in their lineup, America's culture station would have little to show. And, after all, nothing expresses Britain's last thousand years of accomplishment more than long documentaries about Diana and endless re-runs of Keeping Up Appearances... :^) Seriously though, PBS does present a very decent selection of sitcoms, news and documentaries from Britain. Mark (Scottish and English parentage living in Canada) -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Marr Sent: September 7, 2007 8:30 AM To: tom white; 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Herald on Top Gear ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:59 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Herald on Top Gear > What network , day and time is Top Gear on? > It is now on BBC America. I saw it over the weekend, but I think it is repeated ad nauseam as most of BBC America's shows are. You could check their website for the schedule: www.bbcamerica.com I must say, as an English ex-pat I am very disappointed with most of the programming on BBC America. Apart from a few good crime/mystery shows, Top Gear, and the original Office, much of it is reruns of reality crap and Benny Hill (which was never even a BBC production!). Why do I want to watch two daft old crones cleaning somebody else's house? Mike _______________________________________________ mhooper at digiscreen.ca From DLylis at aol.com Fri Sep 7 07:06:42 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 09:06:42 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Distributor Message-ID: In a message dated 9/7/2007 7:08:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: info at brits-n-pieces.com This looks like 289,00 EU plus 19% tax plus shipping. That looks like around $400 before tax and shipping. Am I missing something? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dmb993 at earthlink.net Fri Sep 7 10:14:26 2007 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (David Brady) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 12:14:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Battery size Message-ID: <46E178E2.5070100@earthlink.net> Folks, Who makes a battery that actually fits the width of the TR250 battery tray? TIA, David Brady TR250, CD8124L From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 7 10:41:16 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 12:41:16 EDT Subject: [TR] Battery size Message-ID: In a message dated 9/7/2007 11:09:53 AM Central Daylight Time, dmb993 at earthlink.net writes: > Who makes a battery that actually fits the width > of the TR250 battery tray? > They all do. It is a sized standard battery. I believe it is a Group 24 but check with your local supplier. Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Sep 7 11:08:44 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 17:08:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] Carpet snaps? Message-ID: Hi List, I have developed enough confidence in the drive line of my machine that I am installing the carpets that have been sitting here for eight years. The snaps that hold down some sections of the carpet have a spike ring that goes through the carpet into the top half of the snap. Can someone tell me the best way to bend these spikes over to secure the top half of the snap? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Test your celebrity IQ. Play Red Carpet Reveal and earn great prizes! http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_hotmailtextlink2 From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Sep 7 11:40:22 2007 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 13:40:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] PLASTIC 'beehive' stand-alone unit In-Reply-To: <19020448.1189003778715.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <19020448.1189003778715.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <6fa72a770709071040p6975b0bem5014e57aaf5518fa@mail.gmail.com> When I was rebuilding the TR2 with my dad (back in 1975), we bought trailer running lights at kmart. We removed the lens and it fit w/chrome rings just fine. Not original, but it got me running through 1979..... (oh jezze - I've been hauling a non running car around with me for 28 years - does that qualify me for an award?) Parts were not so easy to find back then all I had was NAPA and a manual back then. I didn't find TRF until 77 or so..... On 9/5/07, hdrider570 at peoplepc.com wrote: > > I have fitted a set of aftermarket lens to original Bee Hive light > bases. The lens base is slightly larger than the original. As such the > lens will fit but the secondary chrome ring will not as the glass lens has > pushed the rubber too far aou. > > Edward Hamer > Petaluma CA > > ________________________________________ > PeoplePC Online > A better way to Internet > http://www.peoplepc.com > _______________________________________________ > ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Sep 7 12:16:35 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 14:16:35 EDT Subject: [TR] Carpet snaps? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/7/2007 10:09:25 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: Can someone tell me the best way to bend these spikes over to secure the top half of the snap? Tom, While they're may be a special tool for this operation, I use my wide (deep) set jaw pliers and crimp the tabs squeezing from top and bottom. You may have to fold some of the carpet over so the pliers will reach the snap but that's okay, the carpet bends easily and will return to it's original shape. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ScharfR at aol.com Fri Sep 7 12:55:30 2007 From: ScharfR at aol.com (ScharfR at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 14:55:30 EDT Subject: [TR] fuse block mounting Message-ID: In a message dated 9/7/2007 12:12:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, this rhetorical question was posed: >>>>>>>But what's a zero among friends Nothing, actually. Bob Sharp missing my 64-ish TR4 ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Sep 7 13:53:11 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 15:53:11 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Distributor Message-ID: These guys have new Lucas distibutors for $130 or so. _http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/cat/TR3-4A--Clutch%20Components_ (http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/cat/TR3-4A--Clutch%20Components) Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From FordneyNJ at aol.com Fri Sep 7 13:57:59 2007 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 15:57:59 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph Hearld on Top Gear Message-ID: BBC will be filming a new series of Folyes War this fall. So good program will make it here some day. Rodney ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From FordneyNJ at aol.com Fri Sep 7 14:03:53 2007 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 16:03:53 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A distributor Message-ID: You could try Classic Motor Works in Canada. They list at $425, might be in Canadian dollars? NFI www.classicmotorworks Rodney ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Sep 7 14:34:35 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 16:34:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] fuse block mounting Message-ID: <00ec01c7f18e$87f81120$f10360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Previously, I had asked and was told that a special clip holds down the fuse block. I have also found that a bolt with a choke cable grommet (about 1/2" in dia.) also will hold the fuse block. Sorry, no concours here! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From ggelhar at earthlink.net Fri Sep 7 15:22:01 2007 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 16:22:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Battery size Message-ID: <380-2200795721221109@earthlink.net> David, When you select your new battery, don't forget about the battery hold down bar. It's the two hold down J-rods the battery has to fit between. Don't ask how I found that out. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN .. > Subject: [TR] Battery size > Folks, > Who makes a battery that actually fits the width > of the TR250 battery tray? > David Brady From tr6.guy at verizon.net Fri Sep 7 15:29:49 2007 From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 17:29:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Battery size Message-ID: <46E1C2CD.1070401@verizon.net> I'll second that. Group 24 for the TR250, TR6 and probably the TR4 as well. Gary www.tracltd.org Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 12:41:16 EDT From: Dave1massey at cs.com Subject: Re: [TR] Battery size To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In a message dated 9/7/2007 11:09:53 AM Central Daylight Time, dmb993 at earthlink.net writes: >> Who makes a battery that actually fits the width >> of the TR250 battery tray? >> > > They all do. It is a sized standard battery. I believe it is a Group 24 but check with your local supplier. Dave From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Sep 7 15:24:53 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 17:24:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Carpet snaps? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200709071724.53808.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 07 September 2007 01:08 pm, tom white wrote: > Hi List, > > I have developed enough confidence in the drive line of my machine that I > am installing the carpets that have been sitting here for eight years. > > The snaps that hold down some sections of the carpet have a spike ring that > goes through the carpet into the top half of the snap. > > Can someone tell me the best way to bend these spikes over to secure the > top half of the snap? > > > > Best regards, > Tom > Tom, I place the ring in the carpet, turn it over and place the snap ring in position and then carefully hit the spike with a tack hammer, all three in succession until it is tight. Works real nice since the hammer is made for things such as this. I use a wooden block against the ring when hitting the spikes with the hammer. Bob From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Fri Sep 7 18:21:52 2007 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 17:21:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR8 Provenance References: Message-ID: <006201c7f1b0$def980e0$8701a8c0@Dell> Can anyone provide any info for Eric? I am not familiar with California specific engine numbering. Thanks, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: Eric Fletcher To: webmaster.ttscc at triumphtravelers.org Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 4:44 AM Subject: FW: TR8 Provenance Hi Bob, Hopefully you can help me. I own one of the 3 original TR8's in South Africa. All three are amazingly in Pretoria which makes workshopping simpler. Mine is TPVDV8AT214261 /HAF/RAG. While it is now longer its original colour everything else matches its Heritage Certificate. It was built in July 1980 for shipment to a dealer in Newark NJ but has a California coded engine number (12E08120). Having now got it to concours standard ( last months Gauteng gathering of 54 Triumphs earned it a Gold award and 3rd in class) I am now trying to track down its provenance . Any assistance you can supply will be gratefully received. Many Thanks. eric.fletcher at bateman-bet.com NOTE: This e-mail message and all attachments thereto are subject to the Bateman Group disclaimer and terms and conditions: see http://www.batemanengineering.com. This notice is deemed to form part of this communication in terms of Section 11 of the Electronic Communications and Transactions Act 25 of 2002 of South Africa ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - This e-mail message has been scanned for Viruses and Content and cleared by MailMarshal ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Sep 7 19:51:16 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 19:51:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR8 Provenance In-Reply-To: <006201c7f1b0$def980e0$8701a8c0@Dell> References: <006201c7f1b0$def980e0$8701a8c0@Dell> Message-ID: <46E20014.5000405@tscusa.org> Kinderlehrer wrote: > Can anyone provide any info for Eric? I am not familiar with California > specific engine numbering. > > Thanks, > Bob > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Eric Fletcher > To: webmaster.ttscc at triumphtravelers.org > Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 4:44 AM > Subject: FW: TR8 Provenance > > > Hi Bob, > > Hopefully you can help me. > > I own one of the 3 original TR8's in South Africa. All three are amazingly > in Pretoria which makes workshopping simpler. > > Mine is TPVDV8AT214261 /HAF/RAG. > > While it is now longer its original colour everything else matches its > Heritage Certificate. > > It was built in July 1980 for shipment to a dealer in Newark NJ but has a > California coded engine number (12E08120). > > Having now got it to concours standard ( last months Gauteng gathering of 54 > Triumphs earned it a Gold award and 3rd in class) I am now trying to track > down its provenance . > > Any assistance you can supply will be gratefully received. > > > > Many Thanks. > > eric.fletcher at bateman-bet.com > Hello Eric, You should start with a British Motor Industry Heritage Trust certificate. You can order it online at http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/. Simply fill out the form and supply your charge information and you will have a certificate with original configuration and delivery point. From there, you should contact the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org ans ask the membership secretary, Bill Lynn to look up the Commission number to see if the previous owner was ever a member. That is about as far as you can go other than hoping someone on the Triumph list is still around that recognizes the numbers or knows why it was shipped to South Africa. Now if you can get me a control system engineer job in that part of the world for 6 months, I could deliver a Stag to Tom Gowans in Angola. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 7 20:18:29 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 22:18:29 EDT Subject: [TR] Battery size Message-ID: In a message dated 9/7/2007 4:30:24 PM Central Daylight Time, tr6.guy at verizon.net writes: > I'll second that. Group 24 for the TR250, TR6 and probably the TR4 as > well. > Almost forgot. There are different configurations for the posts since they are not on the centerline of the battery. Get the wrong one and the cables won't reach. When looking at the battery from the side closest to the posts the negative should be on the right (unless you are buying for a positive earth TR4). Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Sep 7 20:36:55 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 22:36:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] CT Triumph Show Message-ID: <000601c7f1c1$221dd0f0$05000100@bobspc> OK...who's going to this Sunday's CT Triumph Register Show in Manchester? The weatherman can't make up his/her mind but right now they're saying sun with rain late in the day! PERFECT British weather. I'll be there with my new Wizard Cooling Aluminum radiator courtesy of Art Lipp of www.trparts.com. But more on that after I get my site updated. If you're not going to Manchester, how about Stowe next week for the British Invasion? I'll be driving Rt 100 through Vermont on Friday....anyone care to join me? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date: 9/6/2007 3:18 PM From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Sep 7 22:21:21 2007 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 22:21:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] Carpet snaps? References: Message-ID: <004e01c7f1cf$b6366190$e6e00818@rolofson> Use a nice wide flat screwdriver under your thumb to protect it and use the feel in your thumb to press the spikes nicely into the carptet. Bud 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: tom white To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 11:08 AM Subject: [TR] Carpet snaps? Hi List, I have developed enough confidence in the drive line of my machine that I am installing the carpets that have been sitting here for eight years. The snaps that hold down some sections of the carpet have a spike ring that goes through the carpet into the top half of the snap. Can someone tell me the best way to bend these spikes over to secure the top half of the snap? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Test your celebrity IQ. Play Red Carpet Reveal and earn great prizes! http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_hotmailtextlink2 _______________________________________________ levilevi at comcast.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jmitch at snet.net Sat Sep 8 05:22:06 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 07:22:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] CT Triumph Show In-Reply-To: <000601c7f1c1$221dd0f0$05000100@bobspc> References: <000601c7f1c1$221dd0f0$05000100@bobspc> Message-ID: <46E285DE.9040502@snet.net> I'll be there in the the late TR6 group. John Mitchell Bob Danielson wrote: > OK...who's going to this Sunday's CT Triumph Register Show in Manchester? > The weatherman can't make up his/her mind but right now they're saying sun > with rain late in the day! PERFECT British weather. I'll be there with my > new Wizard Cooling Aluminum radiator courtesy of Art Lipp of > www.trparts.com. But more on that after I get my site updated. > > If you're not going to Manchester, how about Stowe next week for the British > Invasion? I'll be driving Rt 100 through Vermont on Friday....anyone care to > join me? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date: 9/6/2007 > 3:18 PM > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Sat Sep 8 05:41:09 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 12:41:09 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <265444.15071.qm@web27406.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Listerati, I am now almost at my wits end and considering TR arson or other forms of destruction. It still appears to be missing on No 3 as plug is sooty (powdery rather than oily) while others are burning clean. I have; Changed the condenser cleaned and reset the points and timing checked all HT leads for continuity changed the spark plug tried another coil dismantled cleaned and reassembled carbs replaced the earth wire between distributor and engine block checked LT wires to coil for continuity while jiggling them around checked fuel squirting out of pipe before carbs while turning engine over and getting strong squirts cheched compression which is the same on all cylinders connected the No 3 plug lead to a plug resting on the rocker cover and it is sparking The only thing that I can now think of is there maybe an invisible crack in the distributor cap. Is there a way of checking this of do you need to buy a new one to see if that works? Any other ideas? TIA Chris Buckley --------------------------------- For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month. From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Sep 8 06:22:31 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 08:22:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] CT Triumph Show In-Reply-To: <46E285DE.9040502@snet.net> References: <000601c7f1c1$221dd0f0$05000100@bobspc> Message-ID: <46E25BC7.9527.F6B8814@localhost> On 8 Sep 2007 at 7:22, John Mitchell wrote: > I'll be there in the the late TR6 group. Why not come early and enjoy the the whole day? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.9/994 - Release Date: 9/7/2007 4:40 PM From trstreep at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 8 06:31:26 2007 From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 07:31:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: Greetings list- Perhaps someone can be so kind as to shed some light on a most vexing issue we have encountered in trying to get our TR3 [not the nicest, just the most expensive] back on the road. we took it off the road after the 2005 VTR in Rockford to install an overdrive transmission and in the process, decided to put in the "new and improved" rear main seal. From there, we did [actually, the proper term should be "had done"] some body work and painting of the engine bay etc while the motor was out of the frame. Last April, we fired it up for the first time. In doing so, we had considerable difficulty getting fuel to the float bowls. The fuel pump had been rebuilt and worked fine on the bench, but for whatever reason, it would not mate properly to the face of the block. We removed it, rotated the cam to make sure that the operating arm was in the correct position and eventually, after several times taking it on and off, got it to work and the car ran fine. After some more body work on the front clip, etc, we attempted to restart it this week to take it for a test drive now that the electrical accessories were all functioning, and again, no fuel in the floats even after operating the priming lever. [There WAS gas in the tank.] We made sure that the jets were free and that float bowls were full. It would start with etherbut die from lack of gas from the pump. Off came the pump again. we the replaced it with another rebuilt identical AC pump, but it would not go in. We put on an aftermarket [no priming lever] pump but it would not go into the block either. I tried one from a parts motor I had and it wouldn't go on. I put the first one back on and it fit, but it wouldn't pump and the priming lever would not move. We took the diaphragm out of the pump to make sure that it was connected to the operating arms that rides on the cam. It pumped fine on the bench, but would not pump fuel to the carbs. If anybody has had a similar difficulty, please enlighten me as to what I'm doing wrong. [The hell of it is, the car, including the fuel pump, worked fine before I took it apart.] Bob Streepy TS 78649L [O!] Casper Midwest - not the world's nicest white TR3, just the most expensive. CC 58409 Lucille - the Wonder Car [as in "I wonder if anybody would give 20 cents on the dollar for what I've got tied up in this thing"] PS - The electric fuel pump should be here on Monday. From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Sep 8 07:01:03 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 09:01:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46E264CF.30288.F8ECC92@localhost> I have no business writing about a TR3 but what the heck, that never stopped me before. On 8 Sep 2007 at 7:31, Bob Streepy wrote: > The fuel pump had been rebuilt and worked fine on > the bench, but for whatever reason, it would not mate > properly to the face of the block. I know it isn't pertinent, but. At least once in the life of the Spitfire 1500 they changed either the fule pump mount or the length of the arm or both. The result was that early and late fule pumps were not interchangeable. Are you sure somehow yours didn't have some critical feature changed during the rebuild? Maybe your engine isn't the year you think it is? > It pumped fine on the bench, but would not pump fuel to the carbs. That sounds like a clogged fule line. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.9/994 - Release Date: 9/7/2007 4:40 PM From mdporter at dfn.com Sat Sep 8 07:27:20 2007 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 07:27:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <46E264CF.30288.F8ECC92@localhost> References: <46E264CF.30288.F8ECC92@localhost> Message-ID: <46E2A338.2000209@dfn.com> Jim Muller wrote: > I have no business writing about a TR3 but what the heck, that never > stopped me before. > > > > That sounds like a clogged fule line. > Okay, the English major in me rebels. It is not "fule" (repeatedly misspelled, so it's not accidental). Fer chrissakes, it's "fuel." Period. And, this problem can be identified as a fuel delivery problem by bypassing the mechanical pump with an electrical fuel pump, at low cost ($15-20). If the problem remains, it's not the mechanical fuel pump. If it goes away, the electrical pump solves the problem, or, suggests that the mechanical pump has been improperly rebuilt or is improperly installed. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Sep 8 07:35:45 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 13:35:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: <090820071335.2448.46E2A53100036F060000099022165258069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > It still appears to be missing on No 3 as plug is sooty (powdery rather than > oily) while others are burning clean. I have; > Changed the condenser > cleaned and reset the points and timing > checked all HT leads for continuity > changed the spark plug > tried another coil > dismantled cleaned and reassembled carbs > replaced the earth wire between distributor and engine block > checked LT wires to coil for continuity while jiggling them around > checked fuel squirting out of pipe before carbs while turning engine over and > getting strong squirts > cheched compression which is the same on all cylinders > connected the No 3 plug lead to a plug resting on the rocker cover and it is > sparking Chris, don't see here that you have double checked your valve clearances? Dunno if it's a possible culprit for your symptoms, but it is cylinder specific. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sat Sep 8 08:14:17 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 10:14:17 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: Swap plug wire 3 to cyl 4 ( on both ends ), run the car, if the problem moves, you have a leaking wire. If not, inspect the cap for a _carbon track_, caps usually don't crack, they get a line of carbon on the inside that conducts electricity. Sure the plug will spark at atmospheric pressure, but when the cylinder pressure rises the gap is more difficult to jump. This causes the voltage to rise and the electricity to follow the carbon track. If your distributor has enough range of adjustment, you could move the wires on the cap one tower position then move the dist in the opposite direction one tower. This would put each cylinder on a different tower but not affect timing. If the problem changes cylinders there is a problem with the cap. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Sep 8 09:23:40 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 11:23:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200709081123.41018.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 08 September 2007 08:31 am, Bob Streepy wrote: > Greetings list- > Perhaps someone can be so kind as to shed some light on a most vexing > issue we have encountered in trying to get our TR3 [not the nicest, just > the most expensive] back on the road. we took it off the road after the > 2005 VTR in Rockford to install an overdrive transmission and in the > process, decided to put in the "new and improved" rear main seal. From > there, we did [actually, the proper term should be "had done"] some body > work and painting of the engine bay etc while the motor was out of the > frame. Last April, we fired it up for the first time. In doing so, we had > considerable difficulty getting fuel to the float bowls. The fuel pump had > been rebuilt and worked fine on the bench, but for whatever reason, it > would not mate properly to the face of the block. We removed it, rotated > the cam to make sure that the operating arm was in the correct position and > eventually, after several times taking it on and off, got it to work and > the car ran fine. > After some more body work on the front clip, etc, we attempted to restart > it this week to take it for a test drive now that the electrical > accessories were all functioning, and again, no fuel in the floats even > after operating the priming lever. [There WAS gas in the tank.] We made > sure that the jets were free and that float bowls were full. It would start > with etherbut die from lack of gas from the pump. Off came the pump again. > we the replaced it with another rebuilt identical AC pump, but it would not > go in. We put on an aftermarket [no priming lever] pump but it would not go > into the block either. I tried one from a parts motor I had and it wouldn't > go on. I put the first one back on and it fit, but it wouldn't pump and the > priming lever would not move. We took the diaphragm out of the pump to make > sure that it was connected to the operating arms that rides on the cam. It > pumped fine on the bench, but would not pump fuel to the carbs. > If anybody has had a similar difficulty, please enlighten me as to what > I'm doing wrong. [The hell of it is, the car, including the fuel pump, > worked fine before I took it apart.] > > Bob Streepy > Bob, Had a similar problem on the 4 project. When it came time to start the engine, no fuel at all, not a drop. Engine ran fine before rebuild etc. Did change pumps to a re-built one but couldnt get a drop even after re-fitting the original pump. So I gave up, ordered an electric pump and put a blanking plug on the pump block fitting and the engine has run fine since. When the pump goes on the 3, I plan to replace the AC with a similar setup that is on the 4. I never did figure out what was wrong with the 4 pump, but it was the pump for sure. Bob From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Sat Sep 8 09:50:45 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 16:50:45 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: <090820071335.2448.46E2A53100036F060000099022165258069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <317991.76680.qm@web27408.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Just checked valve clearances and all were about 1/2 screw turn too tight so re-adjusted to .01 inch. Could this have caused some unseen damage? Problem persists. TIA Chris terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > It still appears to be missing on No 3 as plug is sooty (powdery rather than > oily) while others are burning clean. I have; > Changed the condenser > cleaned and reset the points and timing > checked all HT leads for continuity > changed the spark plug > tried another coil > dismantled cleaned and reassembled carbs > replaced the earth wire between distributor and engine block > checked LT wires to coil for continuity while jiggling them around > checked fuel squirting out of pipe before carbs while turning engine over and > getting strong squirts > cheched compression which is the same on all cylinders > connected the No 3 plug lead to a plug resting on the rocker cover and it is > sparking Chris, don't see here that you have double checked your valve clearances? Dunno if it's a possible culprit for your symptoms, but it is cylinder specific. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire _______________________________________________ chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs --------------------------------- For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 8 09:54:12 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 08:54:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: <265444.15071.qm@web27406.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20070908155328.NCIT14207.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > It still appears to be missing on No 3 as plug is sooty > (powdery rather than oily) while others are burning clean. If the plug is sooty, the cylinder *is* firing. If it wasn't running at all, the plug would be wet; the soot is a byproduct of combustion. Might be a carbon track in the dizzy cap; but I would look at compression and valves first. While you are checking valve lash, also look to see if they all go down by the same amount. Also swap the plugs around when you put them back in, as it just might be a bad plug. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 8 09:58:06 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 08:58:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: <317991.76680.qm@web27408.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20070908155721.QLHB4195.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > Just checked valve clearances and all were about 1/2 screw > turn too tight so re-adjusted to .01 inch. Could this have > caused some unseen damage? Problem persists. Possible, but not likely IMO. A compression test will tell you for sure. Did you swap the plugs around, and #3 still fouls with black fluffy soot ? Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Sep 8 10:54:14 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 12:54:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: <317991.76680.qm@web27408.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <090820071335.2448.46E2A53100036F060000099022165258069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <46E29B76.4535.10644A46@localhost> On 8 Sep 2007 at 16:50, Chris Buckley wrote: > ...so re-adjusted to .01 inch. There's your problem. They should be adjusted to .010. (But what's a zero among friends?) Adjust while cold. I mean the valves. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.9/994 - Release Date: 9/7/2007 4:40 PM From motorcarriage at charter.net Sat Sep 8 13:13:11 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 15:13:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... References: <265444.15071.qm@web27406.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000e01c7f24c$4cfa3210$e8f00a47@D794W231> Sounds like a Compression Test might be in order. Cheers, Wayne > Listerati, > I am now almost at my wits end and considering TR arson or other forms of > destruction. > It still appears to be missing on No 3 as plug is sooty (powdery rather > than oily) while others are burning clean. I have; > Changed the condenser > cleaned and reset the points and timing > checked all HT leads for continuity > changed the spark plug > tried another coil > dismantled cleaned and reassembled carbs > replaced the earth wire between distributor and engine block > checked LT wires to coil for continuity while jiggling them around > checked fuel squirting out of pipe before carbs while turning engine over > and getting strong squirts > cheched compression which is the same on all cylinders > connected the No 3 plug lead to a plug resting on the rocker cover and it > is sparking > The only thing that I can now think of is there maybe an invisible crack > in the distributor cap. Is there a way of checking this of do you need to > buy a new one to see if that works? > Any other ideas? From motorcarriage at charter.net Sat Sep 8 13:19:21 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 15:19:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Re TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: <001b01c7f24d$294cc890$e8f00a47@D794W231> Sorry, please disregard as I didn't notice You had that listed as a has done. Everything seems capable of sustaining life, how about Cam lift on that cylinder? Short of some sort of Carbon obstruction restricting flow on that cyl., doesn't add up, does it? Cheers, Wayne > Sounds like a Compression Test might be in order. > Cheers, > Wayne > > >> Listerati, >> I am now almost at my wits end and considering TR arson or other forms >> of destruction. >> It still appears to be missing on No 3 as plug is sooty (powdery rather >> than oily) while others are burning clean. I have; >> Changed the condenser >> cleaned and reset the points and timing >> checked all HT leads for continuity >> changed the spark plug >> tried another coil >> dismantled cleaned and reassembled carbs >> replaced the earth wire between distributor and engine block >> checked LT wires to coil for continuity while jiggling them around >> checked fuel squirting out of pipe before carbs while turning engine >> over and getting strong squirts >> cheched compression which is the same on all cylinders >> connected the No 3 plug lead to a plug resting on the rocker cover and >> it is sparking >> The only thing that I can now think of is there maybe an invisible crack >> in the distributor cap. Is there a way of checking this of do you need to >> buy a new one to see if that works? >> Any other ideas? From motorcarriage at charter.net Sat Sep 8 13:32:19 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 15:32:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Re TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: <003701c7f24e$f9279440$e8f00a47@D794W231> Me Again, Yes I've finally read through the initial email... Sorry but the only way to be sure of the Dist. Cap is to fit another.Do You have an old one to try out? If you can notice the miss while driving, it should be easy to rule out. > Sorry, please disregard as I didn't notice You had that listed as a has > done. Everything seems capable of sustaining life, how about Cam lift on > that cylinder? Short of some sort of Carbon obstruction restricting flow > on > that cyl., doesn't add up, does it? > Cheers, > Wayne > > >> Sounds like a Compression Test might be in order. >> Cheers, >> Wayne >> >> >>> Listerati, >>> I am now almost at my wits end and considering TR arson or other forms >>> of destruction. >>> It still appears to be missing on No 3 as plug is sooty (powdery rather >>> than oily) while others are burning clean. I have; >>> Changed the condenser >>> cleaned and reset the points and timing >>> checked all HT leads for continuity >>> changed the spark plug >>> tried another coil >>> dismantled cleaned and reassembled carbs >>> replaced the earth wire between distributor and engine block >>> checked LT wires to coil for continuity while jiggling them around >>> checked fuel squirting out of pipe before carbs while turning engine >>> over and getting strong squirts >>> cheched compression which is the same on all cylinders >>> connected the No 3 plug lead to a plug resting on the rocker cover and >>> it is sparking >>> The only thing that I can now think of is there maybe an invisible >>> crack >>> in the distributor cap. Is there a way of checking this From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat Sep 8 13:59:38 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 15:59:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A saga Message-ID: <8AAF74C5-ECD5-4F91-98D9-2401C9EE987A@comcast.net> Chris, As it is only #3, I would replace the distributor cap, rotor, the HT lead to that cylinder and the spark plug. Something as simple as a cracked plug could be causing your misfire, yet show a spark against the engine block in the test you undertook. The HT lead may show continuity at 12V, but fail to deliver high volts. The rotor or cap (most probably the cap) may have a failure or a carbon 'hair' stealing your spark. From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Sep 8 16:03:37 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 18:03:37 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: In a message dated 9/8/2007 12:55:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: On 8 Sep 2007 at 16:50, Chris Buckley wrote: > ...so re-adjusted to .01 inch. There's your problem. They should be adjusted to .010. (But what's a zero among friends?) ==AM== I may have missed something (possibly "the joke"?), but my limited mathematics skills make those two numbers to be pretty much the same. ;) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From jmitch at snet.net Sat Sep 8 19:54:03 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 21:54:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas fuel injection Message-ID: <46E3523B.2010805@snet.net> Anyone have any experience retro-fitting a lucas fuel injection unit to a left hand drive TR6? I know it requires a different fuel tank and a high pressure pump. I'm most interested in how to handle the accelerator linkage. Any articles or personal experience would be appreciated. John Mitchell 76 TR6 From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Sep 8 20:55:52 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 22:55:52 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: In a message dated 9/8/2007 5:04:15 PM Central Daylight Time, ZoboHerald at aol.com writes: > I may have missed something (possibly "the joke"?), but my limited > mathematics skills make those two numbers to be pretty much the same. ;) > That reminds me of the joke about a physicist, a mathematician and an engineer were each give the same task: Find the volume of a spherical object. The physicist submerged the object in water and measured the amount of water displaced. The mathematician measured the diameter and calculated the volume using the 4/3(pi)R2. The engineer looked it up in the data sheet. A mathematician would say that they are equivilent but an engineer would say that .010 implies a higher level of precision than .01. Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Sep 8 21:10:05 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 23:10:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Radiator Message-ID: <000001c7f28e$eeddf570$210110ac@bobspc> Folks...I just finished updating my web site about the installation of an aluminum radiator. This is the Wizard Cooling radiator that TRF is selling except I got it directly from Art Lipp at www.trparts.com. Art provided a great price, but more importantly outstanding personal (not customer) service. As you'll see, I had a problem that Art walked through the process and made a potentially difficult situation very easy. I'm not trying to take any business away from TRF but Art offers more then just the radiator i.e. custom fan brackets, Spal 16" fan, Spal wire harness and personal service. Just another alternative to consider. The link on my site is called "Wizard Radiator"....duh :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.9/994 - Release Date: 9/7/2007 4:40 PM From jat1127 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 8 21:23:10 2007 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 23:23:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stowe Message-ID: Helloooo Listers, Yes, I plan to go to Stowe and please remember that I live near RT 91. If anyone has a service issue I have a complete shop and I will be home on Friday. John John Taylor Greenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Can you find the hidden words? Take a break and play Seekadoo! http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_hotmailtextlink1 From jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca Sat Sep 8 22:14:36 2007 From: jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca (Jeff Fenwick) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 00:14:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] British Car Day - near Toronto, Canada Message-ID: <016601c7f297$ef6f22d0$6601a8c0@jeffgjd000xgs4> Next Sunday the 16th is the Toronto Triumph Club's 24th annual British Car Day at Bronte Creek Provincial Park (in Oakville, just west of Toronto). All British cars welcome - and always over 1000 !!! www.britishcarday.com Jeff From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Sep 8 22:18:41 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 00:18:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46E33BE1.1650.12D6EC35@localhost> On 8 Sep 2007 at 22:55, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > The mathematician measured the diameter and calculated the volume > using the 4/3(pi)R2. The mathematician got it wrong. It's (4/3)(pi)r3. Given that he wanted a volume, it has to be linear distance cubed, and since there were no other linear distance factors, the r squared part couldn't be right. But what's a radius among friends? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.9/994 - Release Date: 9/7/2007 4:40 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Sep 8 22:18:41 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 00:18:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stowe In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46E33BE1.26622.12D6EDB2@localhost> On 8 Sep 2007 at 23:23, john taylor wrote: > Yes, I plan to go to Stowe and please remember that I live near RT 91. If > anyone has a service issue > I have a complete shop and I will be home on Friday. > > John > > > John Taylor > Greenfield, Ma > Gloucester, Ma Do you mean a commercial shop or a well-equipped garage? Someone looking for a good place general service or a major repair (not necessarily on the BI weekend) might like to know. And, umm, where is it? Greenfied and Gloucester aren't exactly next door to each other! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.9/994 - Release Date: 9/7/2007 4:40 PM From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sun Sep 9 02:12:55 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 10:12:55 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... References: Message-ID: <002901c7f2b9$3a521d40$0500a8c0@Study> I am surprised by a possible rare mistake from one of the learned list leaders but unless I am very much mistaken, when I was a young lad the volume of a sphere was represented by 4/3 pi r cubed! Of course that was a long time ago and it's possible that that formula has been changed by the arrival of the new quantum physics! Best wishes, David Brister. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5230 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From david.greed at wave.co.nz Sun Sep 9 02:24:03 2007 From: david.greed at wave.co.nz (David Greed) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 20:24:03 +1200 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: <002901c7f2b9$3a521d40$0500a8c0@Study> References: <002901c7f2b9$3a521d40$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <1189326243.3028.16.camel@louie.greedsville.net> Way off TR topic, but relevant to this thread... http://www.teachertube.com/view_video.php?viewkey=3da6d2c3f2bd19e7b9d6 David Greed 74 Stag Man O/D 79 2500S Man O/D On Sun, 2007-09-09 at 10:12 +0200, David Brister wrote: > I am surprised by a possible rare mistake from one of the learned list > leaders but unless I am very much mistaken, when I was a young lad the > volume of a sphere was represented by 4/3 pi r cubed! Of course that was a > long time ago and it's possible that that formula has been changed by the > arrival of the new quantum physics! > > Best wishes, > > David Brister. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Sep 9 05:39:12 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 12:39:12 +0100 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Lucas fuel injection References: <46E3523B.2010805@snet.net> Message-ID: <025d01c7f2d6$0b3c1ac0$0201a8c0@Bevan> John Mitchell wrote: > Anyone have any experience retro-fitting a lucas fuel injection unit to > a left hand drive TR6? I know it requires a different fuel tank and a > high pressure pump. I'm most interested in how to handle the accelerator > linkage. Any articles or personal experience would be appreciated. John, I don't have specific experience in retro-fitting per se, but memory and owning a PI Triumph saloon may help? Easy bit first, re the fuel tank. ISTR the tanks were no different except the PI cars had an additional pipe feeding into the top of the tank for excess fuel return - i.e. for fuel sent up front under pressure but not used as the pump is running at a constant output pressure of about 150psi. For the back end of the car under the boot floor, you'll need a Lucas-CAV type fuel filter that has the same element and filter head as found on most diesel engines of the 60's, 70's and later - Lucas part no 7111-096 as I recall. The original type electric pump is now being discarded in favour of a Bosch pump and when mine fails, I'll go for that myself. May not be *original* but a damned sight more reliable. Up front you'll certainly need: 1. A 9.5:1 cylinder head 2. A hotter cam - e.g. the injection tr6 unit, though the tr5 version was better albeit giving a rather 'lumpy' idle. It's better to go for a UK supplied cam because the datum track settings on the metering unit will be calibrated to the cam. Your existing cam (if stock) would cause problems. 3. A pedestal to fit between the engine block and distributor. This has a skew gear to drive the fuel metering unit with its six pipes and injectors. You'll also need a Lucas 45D6 distributor with the appropriate springs to match the cam advance curve and to complement the metering unit calibrations. 4. The throttle bodies will come with an interconnected linkage and the cable from your throttle pedal will fit / can be persuaded to fit into the actuating lever. 5. A cold air box (plenum) with six interconnecting hoses and air filter box to fit on the front end 6. I *think* you might need a new exhaust manifold - but not sure. ISTR the cast iron units on the carb and injected TR's were different but where, how and why I can't remember. A good 6-3-1 tubular header would be ideal and can give up to another 10bhp if you fit the right one. IMHO the version is 1 & 6, 2 & 5, 3 & 4 because you get the maximum scavenging and something of a howl out of the back end at about 4000 revs. Nice! With all those bits in place, you'll certainly have a TR6 with urgency in its step. Hope this helps? Jonmac From dalevancleef at verizon.net Sun Sep 9 08:13:55 2007 From: dalevancleef at verizon.net (Dale VanCleef) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 09:13:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 For Sale In-Reply-To: <44162013.8080100@verizon.net> References: <44162013.8080100@verizon.net> Message-ID: <46E3FFA3.7090506@verizon.net> I have a 1973 TR6 for sale in Northwest Indiana. It has no rust. It runs and it currently registered and insured. I'm hoping to get $5000 for it. Contact me off list ( dalevancleef at verizon.net ) for my painfully honest assessment and photos. Thanks, Dale VanCleef From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 9 08:50:09 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 10:50:09 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2007 3:13:40 AM Central Daylight Time, david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes: > I am surprised by a possible rare mistake from one of the learned list > leaders but unless I am very much mistaken, when I was a young lad the > volume of a sphere was represented by 4/3 pi r cubed! Of course that was a > long time ago and it's possible that that formula has been changed by the > arrival of the new quantum physics! > Sorry, you loose. Jim Mueller was the first to correct my formula. Of course I know the formula for a sphere is 4/3(pi)(r)cubed. All you have to do is integrate (pi)(r)squared once (with respect to r) and there it is. That is not the point of the joke! Dave From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 9 09:00:20 2007 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 08:00:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <644145.10850.qm@web81409.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 9/9/2007 3:13:40 AM Central > Daylight Time, > david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes: > > I am surprised by a possible rare mistake from one > of the learned list > > leaders but unless I am very much mistaken, when I > was a young lad the > > volume of a sphere was represented by 4/3 pi r > cubed! Of course that was a > > long time ago and it's possible that that formula > has been changed by the > > arrival of the new quantum physics! > > > Sorry, you loose. Jim Mueller was the first to > correct my formula. > > Of course I know the formula for a sphere is > 4/3(pi)(r)cubed. All you have > to do is integrate (pi)(r)squared Pie are not squared, it's round! John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (needs body work) '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway. From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 9 09:04:44 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 11:04:44 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2007 10:00:48 AM Central Daylight Time, jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com writes: > Pie are not squared, it's round! > Indeed. Pi are not squared, Pi are round, Cornbread are square. From KingR44916 at aol.com Sun Sep 9 11:29:32 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 13:29:32 EDT Subject: [TR] tires Message-ID: have a tr6 what size tires can i put on stock rims ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From pethier at comcast.net Sun Sep 9 12:18:59 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 18:18:59 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: <090920071818.19394.46E439130006BA7500004BC222028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > Sorry, you loose. Sorry, you lose. I don't know the calculus, but I know English. :-) -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 9 12:21:57 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 14:21:57 EDT Subject: [TR] tires Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2007 12:29:55 PM Central Daylight Time, KingR44916 at aol.com writes: > have a tr6 what size tires can i put on stock rims > 205/70's are very popular amongst the TR6 crowd. And they fit fine. Dave From pethier at comcast.net Sun Sep 9 12:44:10 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 18:44:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: <090920071844.12393.46E43EFA0004015A0000306922028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > Indeed. Pi are not squared, Pi are round, Cornbread are square. Cornbread are johnnycake. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sun Sep 9 12:45:29 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 14:45:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C0761FEE0@exchange.terra-incognita.net> I see that Time has a list of the 50 worst cars of all time. Alas our Triumphs seem to be well represented: The Triumph Stag makes the list at number 20: "You could put all the names of all the British Leyland cars of the late '60s in a hat and you'd be guaranteed to pull out a despicable, rotten-to-the-core mockery of a car. So consider the Triumph Stag merely representative. Like its classmates, it had great style (penned by Giovanni Michelotti) ruined by some half-hearted, half-witted, utterly temporized engineering: To give the body structure greater stiffness, a T-bar connected the roll hoop to the windscreen, and the windows were framed in eye-catching chrome. The effect was to put the driver in a shiny aquarium. The Stag was lively and fun to drive, as long as it ran. The 3.0-liter Triumph V8 was a monumental failure, an engine that utterly refused to confine its combustion to the internal side. The timing chains broke, the aluminum heads warped like mad, the main bearings would seize and the water pump would poop the bed - ka-POW! Oh, that piston through the bonnet, that is a spot of bother." On The TR7 - Entry 25 it says: "The shape of things to come" quickly became the shape that came and went, in a great cloud of "good riddance." The doorstop-shaped TR7, and its rare V8-powered sibling TR8, were the last Triumphs sold in America and among the last the company made before it folded its tents in 1984. The trouble was not necessarily the engineering, or even the peculiar design, which looked fit to split firewood. It was that the cars were so horribly made. The thing had more short-circuits than a mixing board with a bong spilled on it. The carburetors had to be constantly romanced to stay in balance. Timing chains snapped. Oil and water pumps refused to pump, only suck. The sunroof leaked and the concealable headlights refused to open their peepers. One owner reports that the rear axle fell out. How does that happen? It was as if British Leyland's workers were trying to sabotage the country's balance of trade. Oh yeah. Oh, the ignominy... Here is the link to the list http://www.time.com/time/specials/2007/completelist/0,,1658545,00.html Mark 1972 TR6 From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Sep 9 12:47:50 2007 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 11:47:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hand Brake Woes Message-ID: Hi Listers, I am trying to replace the hand brake on our 1970 TR6, the old one failed when the action rod pushed through the rubber "button" and locked the brakes ON ... I had to remove the pivot bolt to get them free. It was then I discovered the old hand brake was from a TR4. I found a "correct" TR6 hand brake from a donor car (original) and all went well until I tried to reattach the brake cables ... there is simply not enough slack to do that ... and the cable must turn 90 deg to enter the Y connector. I released one of the cables from the rear drum attachment point but still could not get it to work. Any help is clearly appreciated ... -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Sep 9 12:58:48 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 14:58:48 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2007 1:46:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: I see that Time has a list of the 50 worst cars of all time. Alas our Triumphs seem to be well represented: list also includes the Amphicar - which should also be on a worst boats list. But how credible can the list be when it does not include the Chevy Vega ? - and not a single Fiat? Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Sun Sep 9 13:02:51 2007 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 15:02:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20070909150153.08290fb0@216.7.163.243> At 02:58 PM 9/9/2007, McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote: >But how credible can the list be when it does not include the Chevy Vega ? - >and not a single Fiat? > Word. I disagreed with many of the cars on his list, and decided after looking over the first 10 that I should take everything this guy wrote with a grain of salt. - Aldwyn From drsandner at earthlink.net Sun Sep 9 16:23:12 2007 From: drsandner at earthlink.net (J.RANDOLPH SANDNER) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 15:23:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] rear brakes Message-ID: listers, i am trying to replace the rear wheel cylinders. i replaced the linings a few years ago, and seem to remember just pulling the shoes off, placing the springs, and putting the shoes back on, /c out having to remove/ replace the springs after the shoes were in place. now cannot just pull the shoes out.................. any suggestions? randy sandner 74.5 tr6 From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Sep 9 13:25:04 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 20:25:04 +0100 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars References: <6.2.1.2.2.20070909150153.08290fb0@216.7.163.243> Message-ID: <000e01c7f317$201a2450$0201a8c0@Bevan> Well, if you're one of how many (?) who believe everything they read in papers and magazines......................... Having looked at the complete list, it's clear the person/people who compiled it probably weren't even born when the cars were available - and I'm talking 20 years ago and less. But it's the usual sensationalist ill-informed and unsubstantiated claptrap that comes out of most the so-called journalism we're served up with these days - wherever we live. Jonmac From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sun Sep 9 13:33:17 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 15:33:17 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/07 2:59:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: << and not a single Fiat? >> The Yugo was a Fiat built under licence. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From drsandner at earthlink.net Sun Sep 9 16:55:16 2007 From: drsandner at earthlink.net (J.RANDOLPH SANDNER) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 15:55:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] brakes, Message-ID: <4F8D898C82F54F97924A36BF9BD111D0@randyPC> listers, just got the shoes off..............how do i get the cylinder off? do i have to get under the car, or can i prise the clips off by feel? randy From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sun Sep 9 13:59:11 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 15:59:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars In-Reply-To: <000e01c7f317$201a2450$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C0761FEE8@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Hi John: By no means do I intimate in any fashion that I agree with their list (having a certain fondness for Triumphs myself); just noting that it was there. And as was mentioned; any listing of western cars that omits the famous Vega/Astre water soluble automobiles is definitely suspect. Cheers, Mark -----Original Message----- From: John Macartney [mailto:standardtriumph at btinternet.com] Sent: September 9, 2007 3:25 PM To: McGaheyRx at aol.com; Mark Hooper; triumphs at autox.team.net; Aldwyn Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars Well, if you're one of how many (?) who believe everything they read in papers and magazines......................... Having looked at the complete list, it's clear the person/people who compiled it probably weren't even born when the cars were available - and I'm talking 20 years ago and less. But it's the usual sensationalist ill-informed and unsubstantiated claptrap that comes out of most the so-called journalism we're served up with these days - wherever we live. Jonmac From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 9 14:05:37 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 13:05:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] rear brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070909200452.ONHV18315.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > now cannot just pull the shoes out.................. > any suggestions? Did you remove the hold-down springs first ? After that, just work the shoes out of the slots, one slot at a time. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 9 14:10:45 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 13:10:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: <090920071818.19394.46E439130006BA7500004BC222028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20070909201000.MRMS4730.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Sorry, you lose. I don't know the calculus, but I know English. I dunno, this thread seems pretty loose to me. No doubt some of the contributors are, too. It's Sunday, so I haven't had a drink either ... Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 9 14:14:57 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 13:14:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] brakes, In-Reply-To: <4F8D898C82F54F97924A36BF9BD111D0@randyPC> Message-ID: <20070909201413.XBGE29779.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > just got the shoes off..............how do i get the cylinder off? > do i have to get under the car, or can i prise the clips off by feel? They are tough enough when you can see them; doubt it can be done by feel. Should be two clips that face one way, and one clip that faces the other way. Pry between the clips to disengage the tabs, then drive the one clip out first. Randall [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Rear brakes.pdf] From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Sun Sep 9 14:27:22 2007 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 16:27:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate References: <20070909201000.MRMS4730.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: I am installing an electric fuel pump and looking for a blanking plate for the TRactor engine (TR4A). Anybody know where one can be had? Thanks Glenn From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 9 14:36:43 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 16:36:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: The author is not very knowledgeable about the cars of which he speaks. He says the deSoto AirSteam was a lightly modified Airflow for instance. It isn''t at all clear what his criteria for selection are. They seem almost arbitrary. Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From nwolf at u.washington.edu Sun Sep 9 15:28:28 2007 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 14:28:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: > From: "Mark Hooper" > Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars > > Here is the link to the list > > http://www.time.com/time/specials/2007/completelist/0,,1658545,00.html > > Mark > 1972 TR6 That list is an outrage. In addition to the Amphicar, it includes the Lotus Elite, DeLorean, and GM EV-1. Are you kidding me? Every one of these cars (and others on the list) was a marvel of engineering and design in its day, and every one is now a collector's item worth far more than it cost new. (Except for the EV-1... nobody was ever allowed to buy those, and they are all crushed now). The author appears to have specifically targeted cars with strong cult followings and/or controversial histories, with little or no concern for whether or not they were actually good cars (though there are a few real stinkers on there). In short, it was written to raise ire. The best response is probably to ignore it. Or, come up with a better title for it. I propose "The 50 most and least daring car designs of all time". -Nick '64-ish TR4 in the shop for a valve job From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sun Sep 9 15:45:25 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 14:45:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Installed Macy's Garage Emergancy Bonnet Release Message-ID: After letting it age for a few months after I received it I finally got around to installing the Emergency Bonnet Release today now that I'm done with replacing the carpet and installing a heat/noise shield under the new carpet. Went very well, was easy to do and the instructions made sense once I figured out that the release rod was suppose to go strait down like the picture showed and not sideways (see I wasn't kidding all those time I said I didn't know what I was doing). Anyway it's in, functioning and I'm glad I went ahead and bought one. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Sep 9 16:13:11 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:13:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... References: <090920071844.12393.46E43EFA0004015A0000306922028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000b01c7f32e$9c7ef680$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Is Johnny Cake the guy who went on vacation and had his automatic responding email on?? ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 2:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... >> Indeed. Pi are not squared, Pi are round, Cornbread are square. > > Cornbread are johnnycake. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, > 1994 Miata C package > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. > _______________________________________________ > tfansher at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 9 16:20:05 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 15:20:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070909221920.FZZQ4195.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > Every one of these cars (and others on the list) > was a marvel of engineering and design in its day, and every > one is now a collector's item worth far more than it cost > new. (Except for the EV-1... nobody was ever allowed to buy > those, and they are all crushed now). I could be mistaken, but it's my understanding that there are a few of them in collector's hands. I've seen one in the Peterson Museum, for example (although I don't know who it belonged to). GM supposedly disabled them by removing the batteries & controller, but the car itself was preserved. > In short, it was written to raise ire. The best response > is probably to ignore it. I agree, but it's much too late for that now. The uproar is truly impressive, and I'll bet Time has had more web hits in the last month than in the year before that. Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Sep 9 16:23:49 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:23:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate References: <20070909201000.MRMS4730.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <005d01c7f330$1893fd00$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Here's the email that I got from Frank when I ordered my blanking plates last year. Hope he still has some. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Owen" To: Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 4:27 PM Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate >I am installing an electric fuel pump and looking for a blanking plate for > the TRactor engine (TR4A). Anybody know where one can be had? > Thanks > Glenn > _______________________________________________ > tfansher at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Sep 9 16:22:35 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 18:22:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... References: <090920071844.12393.46E43EFA0004015A0000306922028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> <000b01c7f32e$9c7ef680$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <002901c7f32f$ec5e3d40$b40d7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> > Is Johnny Cake the guy who went on vacation and had his automatic > responding > email on?? ============================================================================================== No that was Billy Martin that left his recorder on, he is the lawyer for Congressman Craig. :) :) :) :) "FT" From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Sep 9 16:37:18 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:37:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: References: <20070909201000.MRMS4730.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <000f01c7f331$fd3aba60$210110ac@bobspc> Frank Fisher makes them. You can email him at FGFO1 at aol.com Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn Owen Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 4:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate I am installing an electric fuel pump and looking for a blanking plate for the TRactor engine (TR4A). Anybody know where one can be had? Thanks Glenn _______________________________________________ No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.10/995 - Release Date: 9/8/2007 1:24 PM From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Sep 9 16:43:14 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:43:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate References: <20070909201000.MRMS4730.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <001f01c7f332$cebfa910$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> what i meant to send ----- Original Message ----- From: FGFO1 at aol.com To: tfansher at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 6:56 PM Subject: Re: [TR] fuel pump blank off plates i guess you'll need my address also 45335 paseo durango temecula ca 92592 Frank Fisher thanks Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Owen" To: Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 4:27 PM Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate >I am installing an electric fuel pump and looking for a blanking plate for > the TRactor engine (TR4A). Anybody know where one can be had? > Thanks > Glenn > _______________________________________________ > tfansher at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Sep 9 17:35:14 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 17:35:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C0761FEE0@exchange.terra-incognita.net> References: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C0761FEE0@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <46E48332.20801@tscusa.org> Mark Hooper wrote: > I see that Time has a list of the 50 worst cars of all time. Alas our > Triumphs seem to be well represented: > > The Triumph Stag makes the list at number 20 > On The TR7 - Entry 25 > Oh, the ignominy... > > Mark > 1972 TR6 > Anything to propagate myths, distort facts and twist history, instill panic in the masses with hysteria and sensationalism of minimalistic subjects - that is the best media and journalists can do these days I suppose. I am sure the large loyal following many of these cars enjoy today speak much louder than sensationalism, misinformation and the outright lies contained in these individual cars fictional dossiers. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From thenicholls at verizon.net Sun Sep 9 20:06:09 2007 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 21:06:09 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: <19659959.14250211189389969718.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net> For $13, it is a no brainer. I don't even use the cable anymore, the release is on the correct side of the car! Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 >From: nwolf at u.washington.edu >Date: 2007/09/09 Sun PM 04:28:28 CDT >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars >> From: "Mark Hooper" >> Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars >> >> Here is the link to the list >> >> http://www.time.com/time/specials/2007/completelist/0,,1658545,00.html >> >> Mark >> 1972 TR6 > > That list is an outrage. In addition to the Amphicar, it includes the Lotus Elite, DeLorean, and GM EV-1. Are you kidding me? Every one of these cars (and others on the list) was a marvel of engineering and design in its day, and every one is now a collector's item worth far more than it cost new. (Except for the EV-1... nobody was ever allowed to buy those, and they are all crushed now). > > The author appears to have specifically targeted cars with strong cult followings and/or controversial histories, with little or no concern for whether or not they were actually good cars (though there are a few real stinkers on there). > In short, it was written to raise ire. The best response is probably to ignore it. Or, come up with a better title for it. > I propose "The 50 most and least daring car designs of all time". > >-Nick >'64-ish TR4 in the shop for a valve job >_______________________________________________ >thenicholls at verizon.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Sep 9 21:40:10 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 23:40:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] unaccounted for thin light colored wire at the regulator Message-ID: <018b01c7f35c$55ed3be0$f10360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> On installing my wiring harness on my TR3A it seems that I have encountered an unknown wire. This small light colored wire emerges along with the other wires intended for the regulator. The wiring chart shows these wires for the regulator: brown/blue, brown/white, yellow/green, yellow and black to the E terminal. However, I have an extra light colored wire that seems to be that is just about the same color as the faded yellow (which happens to be a thicker gauge wire.) It does not extend to the fuse block wiring, however, it seems to be connected to the white line from the fuse block to the key switch. Of course, both white wires to the fuse block are in good order so why would there be an extra white wire running to the regulator? The white with red line to the solenoid had also been previously accouted for. Could someone help please? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From acekraut11 at aol.com Sun Sep 9 21:49:08 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 23:49:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] OD Conversion Notes Part 1 Message-ID: <8C9C174AD11F094-B70-5C34@MBLK-M42.sysops.aol.com> Hi List, Over the last week work was completed on my 71 TR6 that included installing a new OD gearbox, lightened flywheel, Gunst bearing and Borg & Beck clutch components.? I had posted a question to the list regarding what experiences the list members had with a Borg & Beck bent finger clutch installation with the Gunst throw-out bearing since I already had the B&B clutch and TRF recommended not using the B & B set-up with the Gunst bearing.? I received two responses, one with no bearing noise and one with.? I took great care to make sure that I used the included dowel pins, and a clutch alignment tool to make sure everything was centered.? The result is that the bearing makes no noise to this point. I am very happy to report that all the components are in and the OD and various components all work very well with no apparent problems to date.? Insert big sigh of relief here.? Major thanks must go to list member Rick Patton, who was kind enough to lend me a garage bay, his lift, and most importantly, his experience and support.? He and his wife will be treated to dinner this coming weekend at the British Invasion as a small measure of my gratitude. I thought I might pass along what I believe might be some interesting tidbits and observations now that everything is done. The flywheel was lightened from 28 pounds to about 23 pounds.? Not a huge amount of weight savings but I didnt want to weaken the flywheel since my feet are rather close to its spinning mass.? There may be a slight improvement in performance with the weight savings but considering all the changes to the driveline it is hard to pinpoint what component is responsible for what. The first time the everything was installed the clutch would not release.? Taking everything apart revealed that the clutch fork had slipped off the bronze carrier during the pushing and pulling while installing the gearbox and slid in behind the bronze carrier, moving the bearing forward enough so it wouldnt release after everything was tightened up.? After discovering the problem the solution was to use baling wire to hold the cross shaft in a fixed position so the fork could not slip off the carrier.? I would suggest this tip to anyone installing a gearbox with any type of bearing. to be continued..... Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From triumphs at consolidated.net Sun Sep 9 21:50:54 2007 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:50:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bear with me Message-ID: This really is LBC related:-) Tonight, while changing a light bulb on my driving lights (Hella FF700, FWIW) I snapped two little ears off. The lamps are fine and once the bulb is replaced will work well, but lacking those two tabs the front and the back half will not stay together. The down and dirty fix is to glue the lamp together, but this will eliminate the ability to ever change the bulb again in the future. Can anyone suggest a glue that will hold, yet remain soft enough to come apart in 5 or 10 years? Both sides are that hard plastic like used on modern cars body panels. Any other thoughts, fixes or suggestions would also be appreciated. Ken Gano From acekraut11 at aol.com Sun Sep 9 21:51:53 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 23:51:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] OD Conversion Notes Part 2 Message-ID: <8C9C1750F0D50FA-B70-5C4A@MBLK-M42.sysops.aol.com> ...continued from part 1..... The gearbox was the original 4 speed gearbox that was original to the car with a Volvo J-type added to gearbox.? Unfortunately,? when I attempted to trim some off the end of the speedo cable I trimmed off just a bit too much and the speedo doesnt work now.? A new one has been ordered but I will find out then if the speedo is reading correctly. One of the most enjoyable aspects of interior work is refitting the transmission tunnel to the car.? Getting all the bolts to line up and hold it down is pretty near impossible.? I had purchased a new plastic tunnel from TRF and this was the first time installing it.? All the holes in it were a perfect match, nice job TRF.? But installing it was next to impossible.? I decided to take a slightly different route after getting some of the bolts in but having trouble with the rest.? From under the car I put the bolts in so the head of the bolt stuck up slightly, allowing the me to push the tunnel down over the protruding bolts.? Then I used a flat washer and a nyloc nut to hold everything down.? I could not install the two bolts farthest back from the bottom so they were installed from the top.? I had already put the tunnel in and tightened a few bolts down so I put the rest on from under the car but the bolts could have been installed quite easily from inside the car when the gearbox was out. My thanks to Rick Patton and Dick Taylor for their help.? Having an OD sure is nice. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From jimbpps at cox.net Sun Sep 9 22:17:00 2007 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 21:17:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bear with me In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3BB949CBADEA4C139E9DDD431DDBFE22@JimofficePC> Silcon Sealer/Glue available in black, white, almond, 'metal', and clear; should work and is easily cut apart with a knife or box-cutter in the future. Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ken Gano, home Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 8:51 PM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Bear with me This really is LBC related:-) Tonight, while changing a light bulb on my driving lights (Hella FF700, FWIW) I snapped two little ears off. The lamps are fine and once the bulb is replaced will work well, but lacking those two tabs the front and the back half will not stay together. The down and dirty fix is to glue the lamp together, but this will eliminate the ability to ever change the bulb again in the future. Can anyone suggest a glue that will hold, yet remain soft enough to come apart in 5 or 10 years? Both sides are that hard plastic like used on modern cars body panels. Any other thoughts, fixes or suggestions would also be appreciated. Ken Gano _______________________________________________ jimbpps at cox.net From acekraut11 at aol.com Sun Sep 9 21:31:11 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 23:31:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] OD Conversion Notes Message-ID: <8C9C1722B1B73BC-B70-5BB2@MBLK-M42.sysops.aol.com> Hi List, Over the last week work was completed on my 71 TR6 that included installing a new OD gearbox, lightened flywheel, Gunst bearing and Borg & Beck clutch components.? I had posted a question to the list regarding what experiences the list members had with a Borg & Beck bent finger clutch installation with the Gunst throw-out bearing since I already had the B&B clutch and TRF recommended not using the B & B set-up with the Gunst bearing.? I received two responses, one with no bearing noise and one with.? I took great care to make sure that I used the included dowel pins, and a clutch alignment tool to make sure everything was centered.? The result is that the bearing makes no noise to this point. I am very happy to report that all the components are in and the OD and various components all work very well with no apparent problems to date.? Insert big sigh of relief here.? Major thanks must go to list member Rick Patton, who was kind enough to lend me a garage bay, his lift, and most importantly, his experience and support.? He and his wife will be treated to dinner this coming weekend at the British Invasion as a small measure of my gratitude. I thought I might pass along what I believe might be some interesting tidbits and observations now that everything is done. The flywheel was lightened from 28 pounds to about 23 pounds.? Not a huge amount of weight savings but I didnt want to weaken the flywheel since my feet are rather close to its spinning mass.? There may be a slight improvement in performance with the weight savings but considering all the changes to the driveline it is hard to pinpoint what component is responsible for what. The first time the everything was installed the clutch would not release.? Taking everything apart revealed that the clutch fork had slipped off the bronze carrier during the pushing and pulling while installing the gearbox and slid in behind the bronze carrier, moving the bearing forward enough so it wouldnt release after everything was tightened up.? After discovering the problem the solution was to use baling wire to hold the cross shaft in a fixed position so the fork could not slip off the carrier.? I would suggest this tip to anyone installing a gearbox with any type of bearing. The gearbox was the original 4 speed gearbox that was original to the car with a Volvo J-type added to gearbox.? Unfortunately,? when I attempted to trim some off the end of the speedo cable I trimmed off just a bit too much and the speedo doesnt work now.? A new one has been ordered but I will find out then if the speedo is reading correctly. One of the most enjoyable aspects of interior work is refitting the transmission tunnel to the car.? Getting all the bolts to line up and hold it down is pretty near impossible.? I had purchased a new plastic tunnel from TRF and this was the first time installing it.? All the holes in it were a perfect match, nice job TRF.? But installing it was next to impossible.? I decided to take a slightly different route after getting some of the bolts in but having trouble with the rest.? From under the car I put the bolts in so the head of the bolt stuck up slightly, allowing the me to push the tunnel down over the protruding bolts.? Then I used a flat washer and a nyloc nut to hold everything down.? I could not install the two bolts farthest back from the bottom so they were installed from the top.? I had already put the tunnel in and tightened a few bolts down so I put the rest on from under the car but the bolts could have been installed quite easily from inside the car when the gearbox was out. And finally Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 9 23:22:07 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:22:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD Conversion Notes In-Reply-To: <8C9C1722B1B73BC-B70-5BB2@MBLK-M42.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20070910052122.PCLR5282.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > A new one has been ordered but I > will find out then if the speedo is reading correctly. It almost certainly won't, unless you replaced the Volvo speedo drive gears. > One of the most enjoyable aspects of interior work is > refitting the transmission tunnel to the car.? I suggest doing the operation on a Stag some time. Afterwards, you will feel very grateful that the TR6 has a removable tunnel (the Stag doesn't). I literally took an angle grinder to some sharp corners, and greased my arm with Vaseline ... and still was bleeding by the time I finished the job. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 9 23:25:56 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:25:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bear with me In-Reply-To: <3BB949CBADEA4C139E9DDD431DDBFE22@JimofficePC> Message-ID: <20070910052510.IVXU14207.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > Silcon Sealer/Glue available in black, white, almond, > 'metal', and clear; should work and is easily cut apart with > a knife or box-cutter in the future. I wonder though if you should use the "electronics safe" version? Many of them emit acetic acid while curing, which can supposedly corrode copper over time. Never seen it happen myself, but I know Dow-Corning used to warn about it (as well as sell the electronic-safe stuff). Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 9 23:29:41 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:29:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] unaccounted for thin light colored wire at the regulator In-Reply-To: <018b01c7f35c$55ed3be0$f10360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070910052856.JANJ14207.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > On installing my wiring harness on my TR3A it seems that I > have encountered an unknown wire. This small light colored > wire emerges along with the other wires intended for the > regulator. The wiring chart shows these wires for the > regulator: brown/blue, brown/white, yellow/green, yellow and > black to the E terminal. However, I have an extra light > colored wire that seems to be that is just about the same > color as the faded yellow (which happens to be a thicker gauge wire.) There are two yellow wires to the regulator, perhaps you are looking at the second one ? It should run to the red warning light on the dash. Then the other side of the warning light is wired to the white wire from the ignition switch (so you would see voltage on the yellow wire if you were checking with a voltmeter). In effect, the warning light compares the output voltage of the generator (which is the heavy yellow wire) to the ignition circuit voltage (white wire). Randall From acekraut11 at aol.com Sun Sep 9 23:31:16 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 01:31:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] OD Conversion Notes In-Reply-To: <20070910052122.PCLR5282.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <8C9C182F17776EA-AD0-DD53@webmail-dd04.sysops.aol.com> Randall, I did replace the Volvo speedo drive gears, and I think I have it right, but there is nothing like seeing the proof in front of you.? I also hope that the cable arrives before thursday so I can have the speedo operating on the 5 hour trip to Stowe. Also, my apologies for the double or triple post.? I didnt see the first one go through and figured it was too long. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 1:22 am Subject: Re: [TR] OD Conversion Notes > A new one has been ordered but I > will find out then if the speedo is reading correctly. It almost certainly won't, unless you replaced the Volvo speedo drive gears. > One of the most enjoyable aspects of interior work is > refitting the transmission tunnel to the car.? I suggest doing the operation on a Stag some time. Afterwards, you will feel very grateful that the TR6 has a removable tunnel (the Stag doesn't). I literally took an angle grinder to some sharp corners, and greased my arm with Vaseline ... and still was bleeding by the time I finished the job. Randall _______________________________________________ acekraut11 at aol.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 10 05:37:36 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 07:37:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Hand Brake Woes Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2007 1:48:17 PM Central Daylight Time, anabil007 at comcast.net writes: > Hi Listers, > I am trying to replace the hand brake on our 1970 TR6, the > old one failed when the action rod pushed through the rubber "button" > and locked the brakes ON ... I had to remove the pivot bolt to get > them free. It was then I discovered the old hand brake was from a > TR4. I found a "correct" TR6 hand brake from a donor car (original) > and all went well until I tried to reattach the brake cables ... > there is simply not enough slack to do that ... and the cable > must turn 90 deg to enter the Y connector. I released one of the > cables from the rear drum attachment point but still could not get it > to work. > Any help is clearly appreciated ... > > Did you try attaching the cables before mounting the handbrake lever on the pivot bolt? That technique works well for me (although the whole mechanism is a bit "fiddly" and having the cables attached worsens the issue but it is still workable) Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 10 05:58:24 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 07:58:24 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2007 4:28:59 PM Central Daylight Time, nwolf at u.washington.edu writes: > In short, it was written to raise ire. The best response is probably to > ignore it. Or, come up with a better title for it. > I propose "The 50 most and least daring car designs of all time". > Or how about "50 reasons why not to take automotive advice from this author." Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 10 06:03:51 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 08:03:51 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2007 5:11:48 PM Central Daylight Time, tfansher at comcast.net writes: > Is Johnny Cake the guy who went on vacation and had his automatic > responding > email on?? > This is an automatic reply. Johnny Cake is out of the office. He will respond on Tuesday upon his return. If this is an emergency please contact Pop N. Fresh at popnfresh at doughboy.com From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Sep 10 06:11:01 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 08:11:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46E4FC15.26714.19ADB72B@localhost> On 10 Sep 2007 at 8:03, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > tfansher at comcast.net writes: > > Is Johnny Cake the guy who went on vacation and had his automatic > > responding email on?? > > This is an automatic reply. Johnny Cake is out of the office. He will > respond on Tuesday upon his return. If this is an emergency please contact Pop N. > Fresh at popnfresh at doughboy.com Where is Spoon Bread when we knead him? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.13/998 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 8:48 AM From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 10 06:26:58 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 08:26:58 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: In a message dated 9/10/2007 7:11:35 AM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > Where is Spoon Bread when we knead him? > Yeah, its the yeast he could do. From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Mon Sep 10 07:14:09 2007 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 09:14:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 176 Message-ID: From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Sep 10 07:26:32 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 08:26:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... References: Message-ID: <004201c7f3ae$349aae80$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > In a message dated 9/10/2007 7:11:35 AM Central Daylight Time, > jimmuller at rcn.com writes: >> Where is Spoon Bread when we knead him? >> > Yeah, its the yeast he could do. If you continue this correspondence you will get complaints from the crustier members of this list. Mike From jmerone at rocketmail.com Mon Sep 10 08:56:05 2007 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 07:56:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: <237511.68920.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Actually, I'd cut the author a bit of a break here. He owns an MGA (but still disses the Twin Cam) and obviously knows a bit about British iron and the idiosyncrasies that go along with our beloved rides. His writing style also reflects a British car background and appreciation. And hey - someone is talking about us! Joe Merone CF18928 See you all at the British Invasion this weekend. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 10 09:14:16 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:14:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] Bear with me In-Reply-To: Message-ID: The down and dirty fix is to glue the >lamp together, but this will eliminate the ability to ever change the bulb >again in the future. > >Can anyone suggest a glue that will hold, yet remain soft enough to come >apart in 5 or 10 years? Both sides are that hard plastic like used on >modern cars body panels. I would not use glue for the reason mentioned. Instead I would try to "cage" the two halves together with safety wire. Start be making a grid of four wires secured together by twists at their meeting points. Then place the grid over the lens, wrap the wires around the back of the lights and twist the ends together tight enough to hold things in place. Do not twist the ends to tight for fear of breaking the lens. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Test your celebrity IQ. Play Red Carpet Reveal and earn great prizes! http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_hotmailtextlink2 From spitlist at cox.net Mon Sep 10 09:56:47 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 08:56:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars References: <237511.68920.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001c01c7f3c3$32205320$2d02a8c0@Belkin> And if I might add a couple of comments: The negatives cited about the Stag and TR7 are nothing that has not been stated numerous times on this list. I don't know if they are enough to make these cars candidates for the worst 50 list but they are well documented. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Merone" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 7:56 AM Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars > Actually, I'd cut the author a bit of a break here. > > He owns an MGA (but still disses the Twin Cam) and > obviously knows a bit about British iron and the > idiosyncrasies that go along with our beloved rides. > His writing style also reflects a British car > background and appreciation. > > And hey - someone is talking about us! > > Joe Merone > CF18928 > See you all at the British Invasion this weekend. > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ > Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. > http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > spitlist at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Sep 10 10:50:24 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 12:50:24 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2007 12:59:15 PM Mountain Daylight Time, McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: But how credible can the list be when it does not include the Chevy Vega ? - and not a single Fiat? Cheers, Jack Mc Read it again, the Vega is there...I don't remember a Fiat.... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Sep 10 10:54:06 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 12:54:06 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2007 1:27:19 PM Mountain Daylight Time, standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: Having looked at the complete list, it's clear the person/people who compiled it probably weren't even born when the cars were available - and I'm talking 20 years ago and less. But it's the usual sensationalist ill-informed and unsubstantiated claptrap that comes out of most the so-called journalism we're served up with these days - wherever we live. When he attacks the MGA Twin Cam....he mentions that he has an MGA that he restored himself. I think he wrote the work to fit Time magazine reader demographics, so he makes fun of anyone who is not a tree hugging, middle class (well, rich but ashamed of it) Prius driver. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Sep 10 10:55:02 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 12:55:02 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2007 1:33:46 PM Mountain Daylight Time, ZinkZ10C at aol.com writes: << and not a single Fiat? >> The Yugo was a Fiat built under licence. Imported by Bricklin, who gets flamed twice..... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 10 11:33:15 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 13:33:15 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: In a message dated 9/10/2007 8:27:37 AM Central Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > >>Where is Spoon Bread when we knead him? > >> > >Yeah, its the yeast he could do. > > If you continue this correspondence you will get complaints from the > crustier members of this list. > Do you think they will rise to the occasion? Dave From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Sep 10 11:37:57 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 12:37:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... References: Message-ID: <001201c7f3d1$565f0250$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> : >> >>Where is Spoon Bread when we knead him? >> >> >> >Yeah, its the yeast he could do. >> >> If you continue this correspondence you will get complaints from the >> crustier members of this list. >> > Do you think they will rise to the occasion? > Only if they are not loafing around. From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 10 11:51:49 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 13:51:49 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: In a message dated 9/10/2007 10:48:14 AM Central Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > And if I might add a couple of comments: The negatives cited about the > Stag > and TR7 are nothing that has not been stated numerous times on this list. I > don't know if they are enough to make these cars candidates for the worst 50 > list but they are well documented. > But it is different when we say it. When we say it everyone knows we are exaggerating (a bit). When it is published in a nationally circulated periodical it is "presumed" that the facts have been verified. (Unless it was categorized as Opinion) Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 10 12:01:07 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 14:01:07 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: In a message dated 9/10/2007 12:39:16 PM Central Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > >>>>Where is Spoon Bread when we knead him? > >>>> > >>>Yeah, its the yeast he could do. > >> > >>If you continue this correspondence you will get complaints from the > >>crustier members of this list. > >> > >Do you think they will rise to the occasion? > > > Only if they are not loafing around. > Such rye humor. From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Sep 10 12:17:54 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 14:17:54 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: In a message dated 9/10/2007 10:48:46 AM Eastern Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > The negatives cited about the Stag > and TR7 are nothing that has not been stated numerous times on this list If he is going to group all the TR7's & TR8's together, then I submit he is ignorant of the fact that the later FI TR7's and all the TR8's were IMHO fine sportscars. Darrell 76 TR7 VE fixed head 80 TR8 drop head with carbs 81 TR7 drop head FI ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Sep 10 12:30:53 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 13:30:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... References: Message-ID: <003501c7f3d8$b8fd4500$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Maybe so, but with an underlying grain of truth... And, I yield to your superior punning skills because I have to get back to work. After all, someone has to bring home the bakin'. Mike >>>>Where is Spoon Bread when we knead him? >>>> >>>Yeah, its the yeast he could do. >> >>If you continue this correspondence you will get complaints from the >>crustier members of this list. >> >Do you think they will rise to the occasion? > Only if they are not loafing around. Such rye humor. From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Sep 10 12:39:57 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 14:39:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] OD Conversion Notes Part 2 In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407194BDB7E61@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <8C9C1750F0D50FA-B70-5C4A@MBLK-M42.sysops.aol.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407194BDB7E41@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407194BDB7E61@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: On Mon, 10 Sep 2007, Foster, Stan wrote: > I don't know that it is crucial to seal the strip to the floor/cover since the > rubber is supposed to act as the seal and it just needs to be held in place so > perhaps a film of the 3M super weather strip would do the trick to fix it to > the floor pan such that it doesn't move while the tunnel is being installed. > > I ended up resorting to a scissor jack against the inner sill and a short > piece of 2x4 to push the tunnel into position for the next bolt. I really > don't understand why this is not a drop in part, are all our floors and > bulkheads that different ? Wot, guv'ner? You mean the TR "flexible flyer"? ;-) I have jacked my cars up on different spots on the frame to get panels to "line up" in the past. TR6's are pretty flimsey. Interesting side bar - I have a full cage in the race car now. I absolutely dreaded trying to install the tranny tunnel owing to how tough it was to install the tranny last year, but that was a tough job mostly because the cage tubes pretty much fill the interior... at any rate, the frame is so stiff now that the tranny cover literally lined up perfectly! I was shocked, shocked, I tell you! > Stan regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Sep 10 12:53:49 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 14:53:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] OD Conversion Notes Part 2 In-Reply-To: References: <8C9C1750F0D50FA-B70-5C4A@MBLK-M42.sysops.aol.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407194BDB7E41@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407194BDB7E61@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <8C9C1F30ECE1943-6C8-681@WEBMAIL-DF05.sysops.aol.com> And there is your solution.? Install a full roll cage and everything will line up perfectly. Aaron? ;) Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang To: Foster, Stan Cc: forzion at maine.rr.com ; acekraut11 at aol.com ; 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 2:39 pm Subject: RE: RE: [6pack] OD Conversion Notes Part 2 On Mon, 10 Sep 2007, Foster, Stan wrote:? ? > I don't know that it is crucial to seal the strip to the floor/cover since the? > rubber is supposed to act as the seal and it just needs to be held in place so? > perhaps a film of the 3M super weather strip would do the trick to fix it to? > the floor pan such that it doesn't move while the tunnel is being installed.? >? > I ended up resorting to a scissor jack against the inner sill and a short? > piece of 2x4 to push the tunnel into position for the next bolt. I really? > don't understand why this is not a drop in part, are all our floors and? > bulkheads that different ?? ? Wot, guv'ner? You mean the TR "flexible flyer"?? ? ;-)? ? I have jacked my cars up on different spots on the frame to get panels to "line up" in the past. TR6's are pretty flimsey.? ? Interesting side bar - I have a full cage in the race car now. I absolutely dreaded trying to install the tranny tunnel owing to how tough it was to install the tranny last year, but that was a tough job mostly because the cage tubes pretty much fill the interior... at any rate, the frame is so stiff now that the tranny cover literally lined up perfectly! I was shocked, shocked, I tell you!? ? ? > Stan? ? regards,? rml? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------? Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent? Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help |? Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------? ? Your messages not reaching the list?? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html? ? === Help keep Team.Net on the air? === http://www.team.net/donate.html? ? === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net or try? === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool? === Other lists available at? === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo? === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive? === http://www.team.net/the-local? === Edit your replies!? ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 10 12:58:49 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 11:58:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Center dash Message-ID: <02a001c7f3dc$a0707df0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Is there anything that hold the TR3 center dash instrument panel in place other than the two small studs, one each side, near the bottom? Mike Denman From spitlist at cox.net Mon Sep 10 13:08:22 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 12:08:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars References: Message-ID: <005301c7f3dd$f4d88120$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I didn't notice that he grouped the TR8s in with the 7's or even mentioned the 8 for that matter. Seems like the TR7 engine is what has gotten the biggest amount of ctiticism over the years from multiple sources. If I recall it has to do with overheaating problems related to thehead and that is also what has been the main knowk on the Stag engine as well. Joe P.S. I personally like the styling of the convertable body. It is the roof line design that turns me off the hardtop. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 11:17 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars > In a message dated 9/10/2007 10:48:46 AM Eastern Standard Time, > spitlist at cox.net writes: > > > > The negatives cited about the Stag > > and TR7 are nothing that has not been stated numerous times on this list > > If he is going to group all the TR7's & TR8's together, then I submit he is > ignorant of the fact that the later FI TR7's and all the TR8's were IMHO fine > sportscars. > Darrell > 76 TR7 VE fixed head > 80 TR8 drop head with carbs > 81 TR7 drop head FI > > > ************************************** > See what's new > at http://www.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > spitlist at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 10 13:13:46 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 12:13:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Center dash In-Reply-To: <02a001c7f3dc$a0707df0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> References: <02a001c7f3dc$a0707df0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Message-ID: <011101c7f3de$b5dfc9a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Is there anything that hold the TR3 center dash instrument > panel in place > other than the two small studs, one each side, near the bottom? Supposed to be two more similar studs on each side of the top. Not to mention the (rigid) oil pressure line which can be disconnected at the gauge, and the temperature gauge line which can only be disconnected at the thermostat housing under the hood. Also the choke cable. Randall From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Sep 10 13:33:57 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 13:33:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46E59C25.60603@tscusa.org> Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > But it is different when we say it. When we say it everyone knows we are > exaggerating (a bit). When it is published in a nationally circulated periodical > it is "presumed" that the facts have been verified. (Unless it was > categorized as Opinion) > > Dave Verified by ... sensationalism of misinformation and hearsay? Remember that according to Stanford University declassified studies on Human hypnosis for the government back in the 50's through 80's, 85% of the populous believe 100% of what they hear, read or see from the media as fact. Mob hysteria promoted to a science. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From spitlist at cox.net Mon Sep 10 14:11:17 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 13:11:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars References: <46E59C25.60603@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <006b01c7f3e6$bf65dca0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> That's pretty scarey considering what is being spewed out of FOX news! Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn A. Merrell" To: ; Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 12:33 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars > Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > But it is different when we say it. When we say it everyone knows we are > > exaggerating (a bit). When it is published in a nationally circulated periodical > > it is "presumed" that the facts have been verified. (Unless it was > > categorized as Opinion) > > > > Dave > Verified by ... sensationalism of misinformation and hearsay? > > Remember that according to Stanford University declassified studies on > Human hypnosis for the government back in the 50's through 80's, 85% of > the populous believe 100% of what they hear, read or see from the media > as fact. Mob hysteria promoted to a science. > > -- > Glenn A. Merrell From motorcarriage at charter.net Mon Sep 10 14:15:31 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:15:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars References: <46E59C25.60603@tscusa.org> <006b01c7f3e6$bf65dca0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <00a801c7f3e7$56944120$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Good example of gullibility Hillary, I mean Joe. We know You must be kidding, or You're one of the 85% that got indoctrinated by CNN. (Communist News Network). See what happens when You put a political spin into a Auto Media discussion. Put the Pitcher of Kool Aid away. > That's pretty scarey considering what is being spewed out of FOX news! > > Joe From dfb2000 at comcast.net Mon Sep 10 14:21:14 2007 From: dfb2000 at comcast.net (Bill McCabe) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:21:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars In-Reply-To: <00a801c7f3e7$56944120$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Message-ID: Ok, looks like the trolls have picked up the scent. Can we declare this thread dead? Bill On 9/10/07 at 4:15 PM, motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) wrote: > Good example of gullibility Hillary, I mean Joe. We know You must be > kidding, or You're one of the 85% that got indoctrinated by CNN. (Communist > News Network). See what happens when You put a political spin into a Auto > Media discussion. Put the Pitcher of Kool Aid away. > > > > That's pretty scarey considering what is being spewed out of FOX news! > > > > Joe From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 10 14:22:37 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:22:37 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: In a message dated 9/10/2007 1:32:05 PM Central Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > Maybe so, but with an underlying grain of truth... > > Uncle! Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 10 14:33:17 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:33:17 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: In a message dated 9/10/2007 2:36:26 PM Central Daylight Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > Remember that according to Stanford University declassified studies on > Human hypnosis for the government back in the 50's through 80's, 85% of > the populous believe 100% of what they hear, read or see from the media > as fact. Mob hysteria promoted to a science. > As a friend of mine liked to way: "The masses are asses." Dave From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Sep 10 14:36:34 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:36:34 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: In a message dated 9/10/2007 2:02:54 PM Mountain Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: That's pretty scarey considering what is being spewed out of FOX news! Joe That's pretty scarey considering what is being spewed out of CNN news! Moe Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dncullig at us.ibm.com Mon Sep 10 14:53:13 2007 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:53:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars Message-ID: Joe Curry wrote: >That's pretty scarey (sic) considering what is being spewed out of FOX news! There goes Joe, misspelling again. It's FAUX News. ;-) Dennis Culligan, Highland,NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH From motorcarriage at charter.net Mon Sep 10 15:00:54 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 17:00:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars References: Message-ID: <00e601c7f3ed$ad427180$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Looks like more than one Tin Foil Helmet Award might be in order at a future Auto-X meet somewhere! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis N Culligan" To: Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 4:53 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars > Joe Curry wrote: >>That's pretty scarey (sic) considering what is being spewed out of FOX > news! > > There goes Joe, misspelling again. It's FAUX News. ;-) > > Dennis Culligan, Highland,NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 10 15:17:12 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 14:17:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes the list of 50 worst cars In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <011901c7f3ef$f476ace0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > As a friend of mine liked to way: "The masses are asses." Sturgeon's law : 90% of everything is crud. Randall From areich at telus.net Mon Sep 10 16:09:08 2007 From: areich at telus.net (areich at telus.net) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:09:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bicycling in Cape Cod - any Triumph guys there ?? Message-ID: <1189462148.46e5c084d533c@webmail.telus.net> Hi I am just bicycling in Cape Cod with my wife .. currently in Falmouth, cycling Martha's Vineyard tomorrow. Heading for Provincetown by Sept 17th Wondering if any Triumph folks on my route, that could pour a cup of Tea (or ???) along the way and show me their cars Allan Reich Vancouver, Canada 1960 TR3A From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Sep 10 16:49:46 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 18:49:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bicycling in Cape Cod - any Triumph guys there ?? In-Reply-To: <1189462148.46e5c084d533c@webmail.telus.net> References: <1189462148.46e5c084d533c@webmail.telus.net> Message-ID: <200709101849.46572.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 10 September 2007 06:09 pm, areich at telus.net wrote: > Hi > I am just bicycling in Cape Cod with my wife .. currently in Falmouth, > cycling Martha's Vineyard tomorrow. Heading for Provincetown by Sept 17th > Wondering if any Triumph folks on my route, that could pour a cup of Tea > (or ???) along the way and show me their cars > Allan Reich > Vancouver, Canada > 1960 TR3A > _______________________________________________ Allan, I spent the better part of a week in Hyannis for a wedding this past July and did a bit of travel along rt 28 from as far east as Centerville, west to Dennis Port. I did not see one LBC the entire time. On the way to the wedding I did see a parade of classic cars but all of US origin going east on 6A. I did see a Ferarri in Hyannis while running early one morning. I tried to keep up but he was a bit faster than me. Bob From spitlist at cox.net Mon Sep 10 18:37:09 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 17:37:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] List Badges Precaution (VERY IMPORTANT) Message-ID: <000b01c7f40b$e385c1c0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Folks, I have had reports of 3 badges that have come detached from the attaching screws. This equates to about 2 percent of those that I have produced. It might be an acceptable failure rate but it bears mentioning so that anyone who has one should check their installation and take proper safeguards so that you will not risk losing or damaging the badge. Here is what I recommend. 1. For those who have the badge mounted directly to the grill, remove it and get some 3M double stick auto trim tape. After thoroughly cleaning the back of the badge, apply the tape in several strips to the areas where the badges touches the grill. This will also provide a buffer between the badge and the grill to prevent any abrasion caused by contact of the badge to the grill. 2. For those who are using the badge bar adapters, I recommend using the 3M tape to attach the badge to the adapter. Using the posts as well will provide a double assurance that the things will stay attached. So far the three failures have not caused me any duress because 2 of the three I have replaced from my own stock and used the broken ones on my own two Spits with excellent results. The third I am waiting on the owner to let me know what his results are using the 3M tape. If anyone else has had a similar problem I would like to know so I can see what the manufacturer might do about it. Regards, Joe P.S. I still have a few of the badges available for immediate sale if anyone who missed out earlier wants one. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 10 20:30:36 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 22:30:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] eBay Auctions Message-ID: <001201c7f41b$c5eaeb30$210110ac@bobspc> I've never done this before with the List so I'm sorry if this violates List protocol. So here we go............I just cleaned out 10 years worth of parts from my garage and have listed most of it on eBay. So far there are about 20 auctions with another 10 or so yet to be posted. My parts range from TR6 stuff that's no longer produced to brand new and well used parts. Just do a search on YellowTR6 and you'll see my auctions. Selling and Saving for my winter projects! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.12/997 - Release Date: 9/9/2007 10:17 AM From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Sep 10 20:50:33 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 22:50:33 EDT Subject: [TR] eBay Auctions Message-ID: In a message dated 9/10/2007 9:31:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: I've never done this before with the List so I'm sorry if this violates List protocol. not at all - coincidentally, I have also listed 23 items on ebay - almost all of mine are books and manuals - and one Mountney steering wheel my seller id is 80triton search for "TR6 manual" or "GT6 manual" or "TR7 manual" bid early and often - all proceeds go to Jack Mc's R-compound Tire Purchase Fund - definitely a non-profit organization. Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From darrellw at ipns.com Mon Sep 10 21:11:04 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 20:11:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Removing PCV system from TR4A Message-ID: Hi, I'm planning on installing Weber DCOEs on my TR4A. TerriAnn's page has been a huge help on all the technical details, but now I'm planning out some of the installation details. One is what to do about the PCV valve/system. First, I assume that I can't just remove the valve, and run some kind of hose/catch tank from the valve cover, or can I? Looking at the design of the valve, it looks like the crankcase gases really only come out when they are "pushed" out from the crankcase, and not "sucked" out by the manifold vacuum. Another option is to feed the crankcase into the air cleaners, like was done on the TR4. Again, does this provide much "suction"? Installing the draft tube really isn't an option, unless someone has a trick to remove the plug with the engine still installed. I did think about making up a tube and mounting it in place of the fuel pump, but right now I'm planning on keeping the mechanical pump. So, has anyone "been there, done that" on this? Or have any other ideas? Thanks, Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 10 21:47:57 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 20:47:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Removing PCV system from TR4A In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070911034711.DXNE4730.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > First, I assume that I can't just remove the valve, and run > some kind of hose/catch tank from the valve cover, or can I? Sure, that will work as well as the original system did. > Another option is to feed the crankcase into the air > cleaners, like was done on the TR4. Again, does this provide > much "suction"? Doesn't really provide any suction, but again, works OK. > Installing the draft tube really isn't an option, unless > someone has a trick to remove the plug with the engine still > installed. Haven't tried it myself, but it shouldn't be too hard. Drive a screwdriver through it and pry it out. > So, has anyone "been there, done that" on this? Or have any > other ideas? As long as there is a nice, big tube available, the blowby gases will push themselves out of the crankcase and things will work reasonably well. There is no practical advantage to pulling a vacuum on the crankcase (or at least not enough to worry about). However, IMO, the optimum setup is a true positive crankcase ventilation system, meaning there must be a fresh air intake as well as a vacuum connection. That way, fresh air is constantly being pulled in to replace the blowby gasses, which reduce the tendency for acids & varnish to condense out before they leave the crankcase. The fresh air intake should be filtered (to avoid pulling in dirt and dust with the air); and should also provide for reverse flow for WOT operation. But, this is a lot of extra effort for not much practical gain : less pollution and perhaps slightly longer engine life. Randall From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Sep 10 21:56:47 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 21:56:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] eBay Auctions In-Reply-To: <001201c7f41b$c5eaeb30$210110ac@bobspc> References: <001201c7f41b$c5eaeb30$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <46E611FF.2060007@tscusa.org> Bob Danielson wrote: > I've never done this before with the List so I'm sorry if this violates List > protocol. So here we go............I just cleaned out 10 years worth of > parts from my garage and have listed most of it on eBay. > > Bob Danielson > Bob, I would rather have someone say they just listed stuff on ebay than not know it was there and miss out. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca Mon Sep 10 22:05:13 2007 From: jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca (Jeff Fenwick) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 00:05:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... References: <004201c7f3ae$349aae80$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <00a401c7f428$f473fde0$6601a8c0@jeffgjd000xgs4> Seeing how this thread has diverged, I can only suppose how the poor sod who originally posted has slumped to the floor next to his Triumph, despairing of ever getting it going again :-( Jeff >> In a message dated 9/10/2007 7:11:35 AM Central Daylight Time, >> jimmuller at rcn.com writes: >>> Where is Spoon Bread when we knead him? >>> >> Yeah, its the yeast he could do. > > If you continue this correspondence you will get complaints from the > crustier members of this list. > > Mike > _______________________________________________ > jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Sep 10 22:13:14 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 00:13:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bicycling in Cape Cod - any Triumph guys there ?? In-Reply-To: <1189462148.46e5c084d533c@webmail.telus.net> Message-ID: <46E5DD9A.13236.1D1EA64A@localhost> On 10 Sep 2007 at 15:09, areich at telus.net wrote: > I am just bicycling in Cape Cod with my wife .. currently in Falmouth, cycling > Martha's Vineyard tomorrow. Heading for Provincetown by Sept 17th > Wondering if any Triumph folks on my route, that could pour a cup of Tea (or > ???) along the way and show me their cars You should check out http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org/index.html. There is a pretty good British car population on The Cape. The officers page has email contacts. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.13/998 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 8:48 AM From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Sep 10 22:19:28 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 00:19:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: <00a401c7f428$f473fde0$6601a8c0@jeffgjd000xgs4> Message-ID: <46E5DF10.22823.1D245CFB@localhost> On 11 Sep 2007 at 0:05, Jeff Fenwick wrote: > I can only suppose how the > poor sod who originally posted has slumped to the floor > next to his Triumph, Not likely. According to the subject line, his TR4 was missing. He's probably out looking for it. Which explains why his email said he was out of the office. So now we've come full circle. With an area of pi are square. Hey, I didn't make it up. Some Greek guy did a few thousand years ago. Maybe that's how they made pies back then. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.13/998 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 8:48 AM From wbeech at flash.net Mon Sep 10 22:47:20 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 22:47:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] unaccounted for thin light colored wire at the regulator In-Reply-To: <018b01c7f35c$55ed3be0$f10360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070911044718.811711879D0@autox.team.net> There is to be a light green wire that runs from the flasher unit to the signal inticator lamp on the dash. I'll look at mine tomorrow to see if I have one too. You are sure it is not the yellow wire to go to the ignition indicator lamp? BTW, where is the other end of the wire? B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 9:40 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] unaccounted for thin light colored wire at the regulator On installing my wiring harness on my TR3A it seems that I have encountered an unknown wire. This small light colored wire emerges along with the other wires intended for the regulator. The wiring chart shows these wires for the regulator: brown/blue, brown/white, yellow/green, yellow and black to the E terminal. However, I have an extra light colored wire that seems to be that is just about the same color as the faded yellow (which happens to be a thicker gauge wire.) It does not extend to the fuse block wiring, however, it seems to be connected to the white line from the fuse block to the key switch. Of course, both white wires to the fuse block are in good order so why would there be an extra white wire running to the regulator? The white with red line to the solenoid had also been previously accouted for. Could someone help please? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Sep 11 07:57:37 2007 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 06:57:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1970 TR6 spark plugs Message-ID: <002001c7f47b$b66f2300$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Hello, New owner of 1970 TR6. Mileage 66,680, it has gone only 2,600 in last 10 years as revealed by state inspection records received with the car. So, I suspect everything under the hood is at least 10 years old. The car runs fine however the spark plugs show some corrosion on the outside. I want to change them along with wires. I have ordered wires, cap, points, rotor and condenser from TRF. Not sure which plugs to use these days. Some time back UN12Y or UN9Y were fine in my TR250. Any suggestions out there??? Regards, Bob From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Tue Sep 11 05:28:45 2007 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 07:28:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Thermostat cover Message-ID: <003701c7f466$ea488050$6700a8c0@andy> My top radiator hose connector is about a 1/2 inch above the connector on the thermostat cover. Can the thermostat cover be rotated 180 degrees (looks like it can), and what are the implications. It looks as though if I rotate it, the connecting pipe will at least be closer to the correct height. Because of the belts for the supercharger I can't raise the engine with shims on the mounts. TIA Andy No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.13/998 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 8:48 AM From kthompson at whoi.edu Tue Sep 11 06:07:26 2007 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 08:07:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bicycling in Cape Cod - any Triumph guys there ?? Message-ID: <46E684FE.1030600@whoi.edu> Jeez Allen, why didn't you send this thread a few days earlier. If you had, I could have done the following: Showed you some great bike paths and oceanfront driving roads around Falmouth and Woods Hole. Given you a tour of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Showed you my '76 TR6 and newly completed '59 TR3A. (Although now on jackstands awaiting new calipers....) Brought you to Coffee Obsession in Woods Hole or Falmouth for some coffee and/or tea. However, I won't be around this weekend as I'm going to a bluegrass festival where I'll be saying hello to another of our listers....Jim Muller.....in Wareham, Ma., just over the bridge from the Cape. If anyone else has plans to visit us on Cape Cod, why not come on September 28-30 for our 7th annual British Legends Weekend. We have a lot to do including a great seaside drive with a boat tour of the Cape Cod Canal and lunch. Sunday, the 30th is the British Legends car show at Falmouth Harbor. We usually get about a hundred cars, and it's next to the boat harbor. A delightfully picturesque area. More details can be found here: http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org/ And Bob, you must have been in the wrong places at the wrong times.....we have almost 300 members spread out over the Cape, South Shore, and several states. Cheers, Kevin Thompson Cape Cod British Car Club Allen and Bob wrote: On Monday 10 September 2007 06:09 pm, areich at telus.net wrote: >> Hi >> I am just bicycling in Cape Cod with my wife .. currently in Falmouth, >> cycling Martha's Vineyard tomorrow. Heading for Provincetown by Sept 17th >> Wondering if any Triumph folks on my route, that could pour a cup of Tea >> (or ???) along the way and show me their cars >> Allan Reich >> Vancouver, Canada >> 1960 TR3A >> _______________________________________________ > > Allan, I spent the better part of a week in Hyannis for a wedding this past July and did a bit of travel along rt 28 from as far east as Centerville, west to Dennis Port. I did not see one LBC the entire time. On the way to the wedding I did see a parade of classic cars but all of US origin going east on 6A. I did see a Ferarri in Hyannis while running early one morning. I tried to keep up but he was a bit faster than me. Bob From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 11 06:31:25 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 12:31:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever. In-Reply-To: <001c01c7f3c3$32205320$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: I don't know about the fifty on the list but I can tell you about mine. 1974 Fiat 128 Coupe. I could speak with the owner of another of these cars and we could check off the same list of defects and failures within the first year. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Discover sweet stuff waiting for you at the Messenger Cafe. Claim your treat today! http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline2 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 11 06:57:24 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 12:57:24 +0000 Subject: [TR] Removing PCV system from TR4A In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Another option is to convert to a dry sump oil pump with one of the pump stages generating vacuum for the crank case. Best regards, Tom >From: Darrell Walker >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: [TR] Removing PCV system from TR4A >Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 20:11:04 -0700 > >Hi, > >I'm planning on installing Weber DCOEs on my TR4A. TerriAnn's page >has been a huge help on all the technical details, but now I'm >planning out some of the installation details. One is what to do >about the PCV valve/system. > >First, I assume that I can't just remove the valve, and run some kind >of hose/catch tank from the valve cover, or can I? Looking at the >design of the valve, it looks like the crankcase gases really only >come out when they are "pushed" out from the crankcase, and not >"sucked" out by the manifold vacuum. > >Another option is to feed the crankcase into the air cleaners, like >was done on the TR4. Again, does this provide much "suction"? > >Installing the draft tube really isn't an option, unless someone has >a trick to remove the plug with the engine still installed. I did >think about making up a tube and mounting it in place of the fuel >pump, but right now I'm planning on keeping the mechanical pump. > >So, has anyone "been there, done that" on this? Or have any other >ideas? > >Thanks, >Darrell > >-- >Darrell Walker >66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L >Vancouver, WA, USA >_______________________________________________ >tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _________________________________________________________________ Share your special parenting moments! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 11 07:06:04 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 13:06:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] Comments requested on '84 Jag XJS. Message-ID: HI List, After going to the Palo Alto All British Car show this weekend an old fantasy has emerged. I have always liked the Jag XJS, especially the earlier models. I found one available. It is a '84 JAG XJS FHC. If anyone has experience with these models I would appreciate your comments. Also could someone give me the address for the Jag list? Thanks for all your help. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger Cafi. http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline1 From dfb2000 at comcast.net Tue Sep 11 07:18:13 2007 From: dfb2000 at comcast.net (Bill McCabe) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 09:18:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hate to say it, but I had a 1971 Fiat 128 Berlina and I loved that car. Bill On 9/11/07 at 12:31 PM, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) wrote: > I don't know about the fifty on the list but I can tell you about mine. > > 1974 Fiat 128 Coupe. I could speak with the owner of another of these cars > and we could check off the same list of defects and failures within the > first year. > > > > Best regards, > Tom From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Sep 11 07:21:18 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 09:21:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Comments requested on '84 Jag XJS. Message-ID: I suggest you sign on to www. jag-lovers.org and check outthe XJ forum. Best, Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Sep 11 07:46:00 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 09:46:00 EDT Subject: [TR] My worst car ever. Message-ID: I have a 2000 Benz E320. I love the car, but its a $3000 repair bill ever 6 months. The most unreliable and expensive car I've ever owned. The best car(s) I ever had was a 78 Pinto and a 79 Pinto, fuel tank issue not-withstanding. Each of my two kids took one to college. They never went in for service and well over 150,000 miles on them when finally gotten rid of. Reliable and nothing broke.When I bought the 79 new, I askd the dealer how often it had to come in for service. His answer was that 100K I ought to being it in for a smog check. Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From als6point9 at gmail.com Tue Sep 11 08:09:59 2007 From: als6point9 at gmail.com (Al Al) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 08:09:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Interesting, I have a 1997 Mercedes Benz E420 (same car bigger engine) and I have had very little trouble with it. Main issues that i've had are: Rust Spring Perch issue Dash cracks Rear brake light failure on the right side Catalytic converter went out. All of these are quite well known issues with the W210 model. On 9/11/07, MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote: > I have a 2000 Benz E320. I love the car, but its a $3000 repair bill ever 6 > months. The most unreliable and expensive car I've ever owned. > > The best car(s) I ever had was a 78 Pinto and a 79 Pinto, fuel tank issue > not-withstanding. Each of my two kids took one to college. They never went in > for service and well over 150,000 miles on them when finally gotten rid of. > Reliable and nothing broke.When I bought the 79 new, I askd the dealer how > often it had to come in for service. His answer was that 100K I ought to being > it in for a smog check. > Mike Moore > > > > ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > als6point9 at gmail.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From spitlist at cox.net Tue Sep 11 08:24:17 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 07:24:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever. References: Message-ID: <001601c7f47f$70414c60$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Tom, Did you ever have a timing belt break? If so, you likely put valves through the pistons! Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: ; ; Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 5:31 AM Subject: My worst car ever. > I don't know about the fifty on the list but I can tell you about mine. > > 1974 Fiat 128 Coupe. I could speak with the owner of another of these cars > and we could check off the same list of defects and failures within the > first year. > > > > Best regards, > Tom > > _________________________________________________________________ > Discover sweet stuff waiting for you at the Messenger Cafe. Claim your > treat today! > http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline2 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Sep 11 08:18:00 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 10:18:00 EDT Subject: [TR] My worst car ever. Message-ID: In a message dated 9/11/2007 7:10:18 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, als6point9 at gmail.com writes: , I have a 1997 Mercedes Benz E420 (same car bigger engine) and I have had very little trouble with it. Main issues that i've had are: Rust Spring Perch issue Dash cracks Rear brake light failure on the right side Catalytic converter went out. Here's mine: 1. Damper distengrated at 40,000 taking out a few other parts! 2. Airbag trigger device at 50,000t 32. 3. Front suspension bushings at 70,000 mi 4. Engine and transmission mounts at 80,000 5. Expansion valve at 90,000 5. Evaporator coil at 100,000 Best, Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Tue Sep 11 08:52:53 2007 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 07:52:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1970 TR6 spark plugs Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0BA45193@kb1.mossmotors.com> I'm an NGK guy, been convinced over the years, I know everyone has there own stories anecdotes, etc. Anyway, I run NGK BPR6ES (Some places may refer to the stock number, 7131) standard resistor plug. Like the resistor for noise suppression in my radio. If you don't want resistor, BP6ES or 7333. Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 - Daily Driver From davis.heglund at honeywell.com Tue Sep 11 09:00:37 2007 From: davis.heglund at honeywell.com (Heglund, Davis (ETS-Elec)) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 10:00:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bicycling in Cape Cod Message-ID: In Hyannis, check out the Simmons Homestead Inn Bed & Breakfast, with the Toad Hollow sports car museum. Was there a few years ago. The owner has at least one of every model Triumph, as well as MGs, Lotus, etc, most British, but some German and Japanese as well, in a room labeled "Cars from countries that fared poorly in WWII". 50 or 60 in all, Every One RED. I think he charged $5 to wander around, but he wasn't busy, and gave us a guided tour, as well as a tour of his game house with hundreds of bottles of single malt scotch. (wasn't giving samples, darn). Well worth a few hours. Cheers. Dave Heglund From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Tue Sep 11 09:46:08 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 11:46:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever. References: Message-ID: <001c01c7f48a$e2950670$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Audi Fox. Had it for a month, which was about 30 days too long. From jmerone at rocketmail.com Tue Sep 11 09:46:45 2007 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 08:46:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Transmission - no time for EBAY Message-ID: <994018.39833.qm@web30910.mail.mud.yahoo.com> All: While cleaning up my TR6 last night for this weekend's British Invasion I looked over in the corner of the garage and saw the 4-speed (non OD) transmission that I put there back in June. No lie. I had just taken it out after doing my HVDA Toyota conversion and I haven't thought of it since - let alone try to sell it. I thought that I'd first offer it up here on this list to you fellow brethren before going the EBAY route - especially if you're coming up to Vermont for the Invasion this week. That way, shipping is greatly minimized. You can pick it up at my house or I'll deliver it to you at the show. The tranny is from a 1974 TR6, has 98K original miles on it, leaks only slightly (honest), and works great. If interested, please contact me off list. Joe Merone CF18928 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz From cak at dimebank.com Tue Sep 11 10:10:35 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 09:10:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: <200709111610.l8BGAZlu021191@moose.dimebank.com> Do you have a PCV valve? Notice that #3 gets all the engine blowby added via the PCV circuit. If the rings are worn at all, the plug will be less happy. Mine usually foul wet rather than powdery; I have at times resorted to running a hotter plug in #3 than the others. Best, chris From darrellw at ipns.com Tue Sep 11 10:49:57 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 09:49:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Removing PCV system from TR4A In-Reply-To: <20070911034711.DXNE4730.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070911034711.DXNE4730.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <16167352-4270-4CF3-A719-418FC6C68838@ipns.com> Thanks, Randall. Some follow-up questions: On Sep 10, 2007, at 8:47 PM, Randall wrote: >> First, I assume that I can't just remove the valve, and run >> some kind of hose/catch tank from the valve cover, or can I? > > Sure, that will work as well as the original system did. OK. I was worried about pressure building up in the crankcase. Is just venting the top sufficient? It leaks enough oil without giving it any "help" :-). >> Installing the draft tube really isn't an option, unless >> someone has a trick to remove the plug with the engine still >> installed. > > Haven't tried it myself, but it shouldn't be too hard. Drive a > screwdriver > through it and pry it out. Hmm, I'll look again, but I don't believe there is enough clearance with the engine installed. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From kthompson at whoi.edu Tue Sep 11 12:25:17 2007 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 14:25:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bicycling on Cape Cod/TR's/Scotch Message-ID: <46E6DD8D.6060204@whoi.edu> here's his website: http://www.toadhallcars.com/ Bill's quite a character. I recall when our club was ordering grill badges he called up and wanted 25 of them. Then a few months later he ordered 25 more......... He explained to us that the general understanding about single malt scotch is that it goes through one's body leaving nothing behind, and taking nothing with it. Hence, it's a pure, natural beverage that does no harm. And to prove it, he was doing a personal experiment to test the theory......... Kevin T. Cape Cod British Car Club http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org/ Dave wrote: In Hyannis, check out the Simmons Homestead Inn Bed & Breakfast, with the Toad Hollow sports car museum. Was there a few years ago. The owner has at least one of every model Triumph, as well as MGs, Lotus, etc, most British, but some German and Japanese as well, in a room labeled "Cars from countries that fared poorly in WWII". 50 or 60 in all, Every One RED. I think he charged $5 to wander around, but he wasn't busy, and gave us a guided tour, as well as a tour of his game house with hundreds of bottles of single malt scotch. (wasn't giving samples, darn). Well worth a few hours. Cheers. Dave Heglund From william.f.daehler at delphi.com Tue Sep 11 12:55:01 2007 From: william.f.daehler at delphi.com (Daehler, William F) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 13:55:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Minor Gas Leaks Message-ID: I've seen enough small drips of gas from the bottom of my carbs jets, float bowls and around the fuel pump to question the list as to what is going on. What's going on? Is there to much alcohol in the gas now, and I'm looking at rotting gasket seals and O-rings ? My records show that the last carb rebuild was in 1999. That's not even a decade ago. Will in Wisconsin ***************************************************************************** *********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. ***************************************************************************** *********** From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 11 13:01:08 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 12:01:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Minor Gas Leaks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <018101c7f4a6$1cf25320$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I've seen enough small drips of gas from the bottom of my carbs jets, > float bowls and around the fuel pump to question the list as > to what is > going on. > > What's going on? > > Is there to much alcohol in the gas now, and I'm looking at rotting > gasket seals and O-rings ? My records show that the last carb rebuild > was in 1999. That's not even a decade ago. Is this an early TR4 with SU H6 carbs ? In that case, I'd say you got remarkably good life from the jet and float bowl seals, mine used to only last 2-3 years (of daily driving) before they would start to drip. Otherwise, I wouldn't be at all surprised if your rebuild was done with old components that won't stand up to modern gasoline. Some parts of the US (like where I live) had this problem a long time ago, but others are just now getting into it. Randall From trbobtr at yahoo.com Tue Sep 11 13:32:25 2007 From: trbobtr at yahoo.com (Bob Rolfes) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 12:32:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Re : My worst car ever.....now Fiats or Pintos or... Message-ID: <347995.32761.qm@web90615.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I have broken a 2300 Pinto engine timing belt. Valves and pistons were OK as there is no interference between them. The twin 124 Fiat engine may be a different story. And now back to Triumphs! Bob --------------------------------- Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. From hakhutch at adelphia.net Tue Sep 11 17:11:32 2007 From: hakhutch at adelphia.net (Tim Hutchisen) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 18:11:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever. References: Message-ID: <002901c7f4c9$18040930$cc955d18@UPSTAIRSOFFICE> I had a 76 128 2 door coupe. M&M green w/black interior. Drove the wheels of it, broke the timing belt. Dropped the engine out of it (that's right, the engine has to come down through) Stuffed a $200 junkyard engine in it and drove the wheels off from it again. Great car if you could get it started in the cold Maine winters. I thought it was a great car, wish I still had it! Tim Hutchisen 71 TR6- Stowe bound 70 GT6+ 74 Spitty- project 60 TR3A-next year at Stowe 76 TR7 Coupe-future Rallycross car? ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: ; ; Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 7:31 AM Subject: [TR] My worst car ever. >I don't know about the fifty on the list but I can tell you about mine. > > 1974 Fiat 128 Coupe. I could speak with the owner of another of these > cars > and we could check off the same list of defects and failures within the > first year. > > > > Best regards, > Tom > > _________________________________________________________________ > Discover sweet stuff waiting for you at the Messenger Cafe. Claim your > treat today! > http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline2 > _______________________________________________ > hakhutch at adelphia.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Sep 11 16:22:24 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 23:22:24 +0100 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever. References: <001c01c7f48a$e2950670$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <017401c7f4c2$3ade52f0$0201a8c0@Bevan> All I can say is thank goodness I don't own it. At this very moment, we have a loan car provided by our insurers while my wife's car (a Suzuki Cappucino) has a minor dent knocked out of it. The van driver said the car was so small he didn't see it. Anyway, what we've been provided with is a new Volkswagen Golf GT (8900 miles) with a turbo-diesel engine. I'm not sure whether it has the 140 or 170bhp engine and in my view, that's academic. But the car itself is hot - even with climate control, more plasticky than your average Jap offering, uncomfortable, gives me chronic backache after 30 minutes and stalls unless you rev it like hell. IMHO, it's probably the most dangerous car I think I've ever driven. The power to weight ratio is obscene and with a kid at the wheel who has only just passed a driving test, it's debatable how long he'd live. I'll be delighted to see the back of it and my only regret is that some other individual will get lumbered with it. Driven many Golfs, including the original GTI and loved all of 'em - but I HATE this one with a passion. Jonmac From banc8004 at comcast.net Tue Sep 11 17:29:58 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 19:29:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My worst car ever was a gold 1989 XJS 5.3L V-12 Jaguar. Every 6 months it needed something in the $1,000 to $3,000 range. So much money went on repairs, thinking 'that must be the last big thing to go wrong' it made me faint. I started lying about it to my wife. After two or three years of this, one day, I went over a bump and then heard an odd thunking coming from underneath the car. I thought ...here we go again, just weeks after my last repair. The dealer told me I needed to replace a bushing. $1200 later they replaced the $10 part. I knew then that I'd have to get rid of the car or sell my first-born child. I drove from that repair directly to a Chrysler dealership - the dealer nearest to my home. I wandered in, left the jag, came home with a Sebring convertible that is approaching 10 years old, has only had rotors, oil and gas, has over 100k, and is going surprisingly well, given my kids now drive it. But I still miss the Jag. Never eye-watering acceleration, but a strong, smooth push in the small of your back that feels like it could never end. It was sort of a very small London Gentleman's club on wheels - Walnut, Wilton and sumptuous leather - that on its good days, you could actually travel about in. Brian Jones TR4 1963 Valley Forge From DLylis at aol.com Tue Sep 11 18:07:14 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 20:07:14 EDT Subject: [TR] My worst car ever Message-ID: Oddly, the worst car I ever owned, I loved. 1968 SAAB 96. It started poorly in the cold weather and eventually left me stranded in New England on a cold December evening with a seized engine. I still loved it. It was rare for those times and "intellectuals" drove them. OK so I'm not that bright. I talked a friend of mine into buying one as I liked it so much. As you may recall the car was a four on the column. My friend drove a Chevy pickup for his everyday car with a three speed on the column. His wife drove the SAAB. One cold and snowy evening he pushed the front wheel drive to the limit on an icy road and lost control. The car slid off the road and headed straight for a tree. God was looking down upon him and he got the car to stop a scant foot from the tree. He threw it into "reverse" (remember the three speed Chevy?) revved it and let out the clutch. The damage to the front of the car was about $1000. (1970's) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From DLylis at aol.com Tue Sep 11 18:22:54 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 20:22:54 EDT Subject: [TR] Bicycling in Cape Cod Message-ID: I have been by this place twice going to visit friends in Hyannisport. I live in Florida and we are only there visiting so I didn't want to subject my wife to another car museum. Looks like we are stopping next time. I believe it is $8. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Sep 11 18:26:54 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 20:26:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] The Best Car Message-ID: <001b01c7f4d3$a0284920$92107247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Not sure how to describe "worst", but the best car I have ever driven/owned is a 1968 Ford Mustang hardtop, 289 CI, auto and steering, took it in trade in 1971 for $500.00 and have owned since 1971, I have replaced the starter and battery in 36 years, it is right to this day a very pretty car and all original, the T/R 3 is nice, but, two completely different cars, I also have a 67 Mustang with a "solid Bench front seat (rare), just not as solid as the 68 and I have no idea why. "FT" From wbeech at flash.net Tue Sep 11 19:20:02 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 19:20:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070912011955.181A21879CA@autox.team.net> My worst, a 1958 Hillman Minx convertible with 4sp on the column, an the requisite parts car/estate to go with it. Blew the engine coasting down him in top gear, spent weeks picking piston parts out of all the oil passages. Good news was that it was almost a freebie, the guy sold it to me for $20 as he had just bought a new battery. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Jones Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 5:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] My worst car ever My worst car ever was a gold 1989 XJS 5.3L V-12 Jaguar. Every 6 months it needed something in the $1,000 to $3,000 range. So much money went on repairs, thinking 'that must be the last big thing to go wrong' it made me faint. I started lying about it to my wife. After two or three years of this, one day, I went over a bump and then heard an odd thunking coming from underneath the car. I thought ...here we go again, just weeks after my last repair. The dealer told me I needed to replace a bushing. $1200 later they replaced the $10 part. I knew then that I'd have to get rid of the car or sell my first-born child. I drove from that repair directly to a Chrysler dealership - the dealer nearest to my home. I wandered in, left the jag, came home with a Sebring convertible that is approaching 10 years old, has only had rotors, oil and gas, has over 100k, and is going surprisingly well, given my kids now drive it. But I still miss the Jag. Never eye-watering acceleration, but a strong, smooth push in the small of your back that feels like it could never end. It was sort of a very small London Gentleman's club on wheels - Walnut, Wilton and sumptuous leather - that on its good days, you could actually travel about in. Brian Jones TR4 1963 Valley Forge _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1002 - Release Date: 9/11/2007 5:46 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1002 - Release Date: 9/11/2007 5:46 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Sep 11 19:49:29 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 21:49:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever In-Reply-To: <20070912011955.181A21879CA@autox.team.net> References: Message-ID: <46E70D69.1055.21C165A6@localhost> On 11 Sep 2007 at 19:20, Bill B wrote: > Blew the engine coasting down him in top gear, How did he take it? > spent weeks picking piston parts out of all the oil passages. and parts of him out of the front bumper, no doubt. Obligatory LBC content: I passed a Jensen Healy coming hopme from work yesterday. These last few days have been a bit chilly here in the northeast. Why is it that JH's always come out when the weather turns cold? The last time I say one was in January. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM From 6parts at charter.net Tue Sep 11 20:08:32 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 22:08:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr6 hood Message-ID: <006b01c7f4e1$d1b8b2f0$8d86c518@alan> Anybody have any ideas on the weight of a TR6 hood for shipping purposes. Thanks Al Salvatore From wbeech at flash.net Tue Sep 11 20:09:16 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 20:09:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever In-Reply-To: <46E70D69.1055.21C165A6@localhost> Message-ID: <20070912020909.444421879D7@autox.team.net> Thanks for the corrections, Jim. It is comforting to see you english/spellcheck is about equal to mine. S/B: "...costing down hill in top gear.." B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 7:49 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] My worst car ever On 11 Sep 2007 at 19:20, Bill B wrote: > Blew the engine coasting down him in top gear, How did he take it? > spent weeks picking piston parts out of all the oil passages. and parts of him out of the front bumper, no doubt. Obligatory LBC content: I passed a Jensen Healy coming hopme from work yesterday. These last few days have been a bit chilly here in the northeast. Why is it that JH's always come out when the weather turns cold? The last time I say one was in January. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1002 - Release Date: 9/11/2007 5:46 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1002 - Release Date: 9/11/2007 5:46 PM From Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com Tue Sep 11 20:34:27 2007 From: Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com (Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 20:34:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever Message-ID: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF4103CCC4DF@COAST.amr.ch2m.com> Just to throw my $0.02 into this discussion, my worst car was a 1970 Rover 3500S. Aluminum V8, bolt-on body panels (you could, in theory change the color of the car with a wrench), 4-wheel disc brakes (inboard in the rear), very comfy interior, and all sorts of electrical bells and whistles. It suffered an unending string of quality problems, from a pinion bolt in the diff that came loose at speed because the doofus at the factory didn't bother to bend over the retaining clip, to an assortment of Lucas and Smith gizmos that simply crumbled to bits. But when it was running, it was a real treat. Dean Mericas 1965 TR4 1974 2000 GTV From rgperry at earthlink.net Tue Sep 11 20:46:38 2007 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 21:46:38 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] tr6 hood Message-ID: <13182939.1189565198435.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Al, bare TR6 hood is about 50 pounds. Greg Perry From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Sep 11 21:23:56 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 23:23:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] wheel interchangeability: TR6 & TR3 Message-ID: <00d201c7f4ec$5c2c3a10$9e0260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I never have asked: will TR6 wheels work right on my TR3? They seem to fit ok. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Sep 11 21:46:33 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 23:46:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever In-Reply-To: <65bc2u$co3puc@mx04.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <46E70D69.1055.21C165A6@localhost> Message-ID: <46E728D9.10643.222C939E@localhost> On 11 Sep 2007 at 20:09, wbeech wrote: > It is comforting to see you > english/spellcheck is about equal to mine. Heh! Heh! What's a few missing letters amoung fiends? (Spellchecj? I don't recall using any spellchecj.) Maybe some time this autumn I'll actually get to drive the Spitfrie with the top down. Life's been just too hectic. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 5:43 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 11 22:02:46 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 21:02:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] wheel interchangeability: TR6 & TR3 In-Reply-To: <00d201c7f4ec$5c2c3a10$9e0260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070912040159.BWTB14207.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > will TR6 wheels work right on my TR3? They seem to fit ok. Yes, they work fine as long as you don't get too carried away with tire size. Randall From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Wed Sep 12 06:28:08 2007 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 08:28:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Worst Car Ever Message-ID: My worst car ever was my wife's 1975 Opal sold by Buick. The car was flimsy, poorly, built and rusted to nothing. My most disappointing car was a wonderful 1972, 240 Z. The car was relatively trouble free, fast and comfortable. the problem was the car dissolved to rust around me. Being it had a uni-body frame. There came a point that I was afraid to drive it anymore lest it literally split in half, or worse I'd have an accident and have the car body abandon me in a puff of rust. I replaced it with a, I believe 1975 240 Z which, with anti pollution equipment, was a disappointing pig and also a rust bucket. Bob '72 TR6 From acekraut11 at aol.com Wed Sep 12 08:23:55 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 10:23:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Transmission - no time for EBAY In-Reply-To: References: <994018.39833.qm@web30910.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8C9C35FAF32F435-930-89B0@WEBMAIL-MA04.sysops.aol.com> Joe, There is a guy on ebay selling all you need to convert a 4speed gearbox to OD.? Might be a $750 investment but you could always buy the OD conversion parts, convert it and I am sure there would be a market for an OD gearbox on ebay. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Somebody To: Joe Merone Cc: 6 Pack list <6pack at autox.team.net>; Triumph List Sent: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 10:10 am Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Transmission - no time for EBAY On 9/11/07, Joe Merone wrote: > > All: > > While cleaning up my TR6 last night for this weekend's > British Invasion I looked over in the corner of the > garage and saw the 4-speed (non OD) transmission that > I put there back in June. Good luck on selling that thing. I'd be surprised if it has any value. I have quite a few of them around and so do some of my friends. We sometimes brainstorm on creative uses for them. (new thread?) Please don't take this as my dumping on your attempt to sell it. Rather I just thought I'd temper your expectations. -Scott Tilton ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Sep 12 08:32:18 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 10:32:18 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Transmission - no time for EBAY Message-ID: In a message dated 9/12/2007 7:25:01 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, acekraut11 at aol.com writes: Good luck on selling that thing. I'd be surprised if it has any value. I have quite a few of them around and so do some of my friends. We sometimes brainstorm on creative uses for them. (new thread?) Please don't take this as my dumping on your attempt to sell it. Rather I just thought I'd temper your expectations. When I bought my 59 TR3A in 1964, I was looking for a non-overdrive, non-wirewheel TR. I didn't want to have to fool around with OD problems, loose spokes etc. etc. I wanted a stone simple car I could drive! This seemed to be conventional wisdom 40 odd years ago. A practical person might think that same way today. Best, Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From jmerone at rocketmail.com Wed Sep 12 09:00:00 2007 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 08:00:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Transmission - no time for EBAY In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <655874.36663.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey guys - I asked anyone interested to contact me directly as I was a little uneasy about hawking a part here on the list. I just wanted to post it once and be done with it. BUT if you want to help me out here - fine. And if it doesn't sell it's off to the bottom of the lake as a boat mooring. Joe Merone CF18928 --- MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 9/12/2007 7:25:01 A.M. Pacific > Daylight Time, > acekraut11 at aol.com writes: > > Good luck on selling that thing. I'd be surprised > if it has any value. > I have quite a few of them around and so do some of > my friends. > We sometimes brainstorm on creative uses for them. > (new thread?) > > Please don't take this as my dumping on your > attempt to sell it. > Rather I just thought I'd temper your expectations. > > > > When I bought my 59 TR3A in 1964, I was looking for > a non-overdrive, > non-wirewheel TR. I didn't want to have to fool > around with OD problems, loose > spokes etc. etc. I wanted a stone simple car I could > drive! > This seemed to be conventional wisdom 40 odd years > ago. A practical person > might think that same way today. > Best, Mike Moore > > > > ************************************** See what's > new at http://www.aol.com > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos. http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Sep 12 09:11:01 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 11:11:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Transmission - no time for EBAY In-Reply-To: <655874.36663.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <655874.36663.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Wed, 12 Sep 2007, Joe Merone wrote: > Hey guys - I asked anyone interested to contact me > directly as I was a little uneasy about hawking a part > here on the list. I just wanted to post it once and > be done with it. > > BUT if you want to help me out here - fine. And if it > doesn't sell it's off to the bottom of the lake as a > boat mooring. Boat mooring? What are you mooring, a radio controlled mono-hull? Everyone knows the best moorings are Austin-Healey 3000 engine blocks. :-) Seriously, despite the thought that everyone os converting to alternate transmissions, there is some value to whatever you have. If you can't sell it, bring it to Stowe and give it to someone like Mike Buonanducci who will sell it (eventually) or John Esposito who will rebuild it or use the parts as cores. There's no reason to junk parts that still have service left in them. Please keep in mind that nobody makes the cases and the gears for our trannies anymore... > Joe Merone > CF18928 regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tdskip at yahoo.com Wed Sep 12 18:02:48 2007 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 17:02:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Front fender patch panels for TR4 & TR6 Message-ID: <162427.46750.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Any recommendations on where to find these? I've seen them come and go from the major vendor catalogs. Would the Moss TR250 ones work for a TR4? http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=59575 (getting ready for a marathon welding session!) Thanks, Tom From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Sep 12 18:16:13 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 20:16:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front fender patch panels for TR4 & TR6 In-Reply-To: <162427.46750.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com> References: <162427.46750.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200709122016.13814.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 12 September 2007 08:02 pm, Tom Deutsch wrote: > Any recommendations on where to find these? I've seen them come and go from > the major vendor catalogs. > > Would the Moss TR250 ones work for a TR4? > > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=59575 > > (getting ready for a marathon welding session!) > > Thanks, > > Tom > _______________________________________________ Tom, The fenders for the 4, 4A and 250 are for the most part the same. This part would be the same for all. However the price seems a bit high. I have seen fenders on ebay from time to time and the good ones go for anywhere from 100 to 200 bucks. When I was searching for a left front for my 4 project, I got a 4a fender from Canada from an ebay seller. I filled in the chrome strip and light holes with brass/lead. Fixed minor pin-holes in the bottom with brass/ lead and it turned out pretty good. I believe I paid about 125 + 50 bucks shipping to the US. Bob From 308gtsi at adelphia.net Wed Sep 12 19:46:23 2007 From: 308gtsi at adelphia.net (Brian Induni) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 18:46:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine Message-ID: <064b01c7f5a7$e49a9cf0$0801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Hello all, I'm having a tough time pin pointing the ugly noise coming from my fresh TR4a engine and hoping you can help! I totally rebuilt this engine with new or reworked EVERYTHING, so maybe I got something wrong? Here's a link to a short video I made of the engine running http://www.induninw.com/TR4a%20engine%20noise.wmv Please give a listen and let me know what you think it might be. Thanks so much! Brian 1967 TR4a, driving but concerned over noise From wbeech at flash.net Wed Sep 12 20:59:41 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 20:59:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine In-Reply-To: <064b01c7f5a7$e49a9cf0$0801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <20070913025932.5F23F1879EB@autox.team.net> Sounds like valves or valve train, re-check all your top-end clearances and re-start. Make double sure you are getting good oil flow to the top as well. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Induni Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 7:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine Hello all, I'm having a tough time pin pointing the ugly noise coming from my fresh TR4a engine and hoping you can help! I totally rebuilt this engine with new or reworked EVERYTHING, so maybe I got something wrong? Here's a link to a short video I made of the engine running http://www.induninw.com/TR4a%20engine%20noise.wmv Please give a listen and let me know what you think it might be. Thanks so much! Brian 1967 TR4a, driving but concerned over noise _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1003 - Release Date: 9/12/2007 10:56 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1003 - Release Date: 9/12/2007 10:56 AM From areich at telus.net Wed Sep 12 21:10:00 2007 From: areich at telus.net (areich at telus.net) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 20:10:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bicycling in Cape Cod Message-ID: <1189653000.46e8aa0836835@webmail.telus.net> Dave: Stopped by Toad Hollow today on way to Hyannis and really enjoyed it. Bill was very busy with the B&B but left me with the cats to explain all the cars. He did have one green car .. a Lotus .. but all the rest red. Even had a long door TR2. Now up to $8 but a good deal to see some nice cars, lots of memorabilia and models. Thanks for the tip! Haven't seen any LBC's yet. Allan Reich 1960 TR3A > Dave Heglund wrote: > In Hyannis, check out the Simmons Homestead Inn Bed & Breakfast, with the Toad > Hollow sports car museum. Was there a few years ago.... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 12 22:22:33 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 21:22:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine In-Reply-To: <064b01c7f5a7$e49a9cf0$0801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <20070913042145.XQZT18315.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > I'm having a tough time pin pointing the ugly noise coming > from my fresh TR4a engine and hoping you can help! I totally > rebuilt this engine with new or reworked EVERYTHING, so maybe > I got something wrong? I hear a very loose (or possibly sticking) valve, plus another not quite so loose, plus an exhaust leak. Did you by any chance replace the valve guides with phosphor-bronze ? Did you know they have to be reamed oversize ? Randall From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 13 00:00:47 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 23:00:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine number References: <144701c7aa20$18ba81e0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <022b01c7f5cb$6ef47830$210110ac@MIKESDELL> What year TR3 would an engine with the serial # TS31005E come from? Where would you find this information (year built by engine serial number)? Mike Denman From wbeech at flash.net Thu Sep 13 00:21:06 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 00:21:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine number In-Reply-To: <022b01c7f5cb$6ef47830$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Message-ID: <20070913062055.A1AD2187A24@autox.team.net> Mike, This is probably a 1958, my engine is TS 31314 E. My Commission number is TS 30766 L and the car was built on May 3, 1958. Engine numbers run ahead of commission numbers as engines were pulled for other non-Triumph uses. So as close as your engine is to mine it would be a pretty safe bet that is belongs to a car built in Spring of 1958. You could probably get the information confirmed by the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust although I think they prefer to search by commission number. The URL is: http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/shop/heritage-certificates/index.html Do you have the car or just a loose engine? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Denman Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:01 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine number What year TR3 would an engine with the serial # TS31005E come from? Where would you find this information (year built by engine serial number)? Mike Denman _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1003 - Release Date: 9/12/2007 10:56 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1003 - Release Date: 9/12/2007 10:56 AM From ian.viles at ntlworld.com Thu Sep 13 03:27:36 2007 From: ian.viles at ntlworld.com (Ian Viles) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:27:36 +0100 Subject: [TR] Trent Group Picnic - UK Message-ID: <007a01c7f5e8$539ca0e0$cb390552@ianvmx5y8r7iz4> Weather forecast looking good for Sunday!! Nottingham Sports Car Club - Sprint Event 16th September 2007 from 10.30 a.m. Trackside Vintage & Classic Car Display Members of the Trent Group of the TR Register will be attending the Nottingham Sports Car Club event at Thoresby Park, Nottinghamshire on Sunday 16th September for a picnic. No need to book. Any vintage or classic welcome. See you there? Cheers, IanV From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Sep 13 05:48:02 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 07:48:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine References: <064b01c7f5a7$e49a9cf0$0801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <002301c7f5fb$f40c6d40$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> I hear what sounds like valve train noise from excessive valve clearance, as well an exhaust leak. Standing out from that general noise are two distinct ticks, which could be an exhaust leak at the manifold/head joint, or a very loose individual valve clearance. Were it my engine, I'd re-check the valve clearance, and re-examine the manifold mounting. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at adelphia.net> To: Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 9:46 PM Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine > Hello all, > > > > I'm having a tough time pin pointing the ugly noise coming from my fresh > TR4a engine and hoping you can help! I totally rebuilt this engine with > new > or reworked EVERYTHING, so maybe I got something wrong? > > > > Here's a link to a short video I made of the engine running > http://www.induninw.com/TR4a%20engine%20noise.wmv > > > > Please give a listen and let me know what you think it might be. > > > > Thanks so much! > > > > Brian From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Thu Sep 13 06:27:01 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 07:27:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine In-Reply-To: <002301c7f5fb$f40c6d40$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> References: <064b01c7f5a7$e49a9cf0$0801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> <002301c7f5fb$f40c6d40$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <200709131227.l8DCRGUE315281@ns3.geneseo.net> Someone else suggested no oil to the top end. That's a good suggestion. If you installed new cam bearings, and had a local shop do it who is not familiar with TR's, they may have misaligned the rear camshaft bearing. That bearing has three holes in it and normal engines have two. The third hole is for feed to the rockers -- guess how I know. At 06:48 AM 9/13/2007, Nolan wrote: >I hear what sounds like valve train noise from excessive valve clearance, as >well an exhaust leak. Standing out from that general noise are two distinct >ticks, which could be an exhaust leak at the manifold/head joint, or a very >loose individual valve clearance. > >Were it my engine, I'd re-check the valve clearance, and re-examine the >manifold mounting. > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at adelphia.net> >To: >Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 9:46 PM >Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine > > > > Hello all, > > > > > > > > I'm having a tough time pin pointing the ugly noise coming from my fresh > > TR4a engine and hoping you can help! I totally rebuilt this engine with > > new > > or reworked EVERYTHING, so maybe I got something wrong? > > > > > > > > Here's a link to a short video I made of the engine running > > http://www.induninw.com/TR4a%20engine%20noise.wmv > > > > > > > > Please give a listen and let me know what you think it might be. > > > > > > > > Thanks so much! > > > > > > > > Brian >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Sep 13 07:32:46 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 13:32:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine Message-ID: <091320071332.17270.46E93BFE000650360000437622007623020B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> If the bearing is misaligned, I am told there are alternatives to an entire rebuild: one can bypass the bearing with an external feed or pull the camshaft forward marginally and drill a new hole through down through the head - but hopefully none of this will be necessary. -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Jack W. Drews" > Someone else suggested no oil to the top end. That's a good > suggestion. If you installed new cam bearings, and had a local shop > do it who is not familiar with TR's, they may have misaligned the > rear camshaft bearing. That bearing has three holes in it and normal > engines have two. The third hole is for feed to the rockers -- guess > how I know. > > At 06:48 AM 9/13/2007, Nolan wrote: > >I hear what sounds like valve train noise from excessive valve clearance, as > >well an exhaust leak. Standing out from that general noise are two distinct > >ticks, which could be an exhaust leak at the manifold/head joint, or a very > >loose individual valve clearance. > > > >Were it my engine, I'd re-check the valve clearance, and re-examine the > >manifold mounting. > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at adelphia.net> > >To: > >Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 9:46 PM > >Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine > > > > > > > Hello all, > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm having a tough time pin pointing the ugly noise coming from my fresh > > > TR4a engine and hoping you can help! I totally rebuilt this engine with > > > new > > > or reworked EVERYTHING, so maybe I got something wrong? > > > > > > > > > > > > Here's a link to a short video I made of the engine running > > > http://www.induninw.com/TR4a%20engine%20noise.wmv > > > > > > > > > > > > Please give a listen and let me know what you think it might be. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks so much! > > > > > > > > > > > > Brian > >_______________________________________________ > >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > > > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > >http://www.vtr.org > > > >Triumphs mailing list > >Triumphs at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > uncle jack > > > > ------------------------------------------------ > No Virus Found In This Message > Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net > _______________________________________________ > auprichard at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jmerone at rocketmail.com Thu Sep 13 08:50:46 2007 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 07:50:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] British Invasion weather Message-ID: <559905.96589.qm@web30910.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Here it is - the Stowe Vermont weather forecast for the next few days. http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?CityName=Stowe&state=VT&site=BTV You'll see that here in Vermont we have made special arrangements that the weather for your trip up to and back from our beautiful corner of the world be varied - but perfect for driving. Warm and breezy tomorrow (come early), cool and clearing on Sunday (stay late). It's Saturday that's looking a little bleak right now however - real British Isles stuff. Have a safe and enjoyable ride, and I'll see you on the field. Joe Merone CF18928 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/ From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Thu Sep 13 08:57:12 2007 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 07:57:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Front fender patch panels for TR4 & TR6 Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0BA451C3@kb1.mossmotors.com> Well, since you asked... Moss does have stock of patch panels for TR4 in stock: 855-142 R/H, 855-152 L/H And yes they are the same as TR250. Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 Daily Driver From dkspence at telus.net Thu Sep 13 09:36:28 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 09:36:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3E8F6125-515E-41A7-84B7-EE9785FD41CB@telus.net> I recall an R&T article that claimed the P6 Rover had, from new, the highest frequency of repair of any car sold in North America. The same article claimed Mercedes as one of the cheapest imports to own. Low maintenance/repair plus high resale value meant a low cost per mile. On 12-Sep-07, at 9:11 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: Re: [TR] My worst car ever > > > Just to throw my $0.02 into this discussion, my worst car was a 1970 > Rover 3500S. Aluminum V8, bolt-on body panels (you could, in theory > change the color of the car with a wrench), 4-wheel disc brakes > (inboard > in the rear), very comfy interior, and all sorts of electrical > bells and > whistles. It suffered an unending string of quality problems, from a > pinion bolt in the diff that came loose at speed because the doofus at > the factory didn't bother to bend over the retaining clip, to an > assortment of Lucas and Smith gizmos that simply crumbled to bits. > > But when it was running, it was a real treat. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 13 10:02:52 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 09:02:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever In-Reply-To: <3E8F6125-515E-41A7-84B7-EE9785FD41CB@telus.net> Message-ID: <20070913160204.UVWS16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I recall an R&T article that claimed the P6 Rover had, from > new, the highest frequency of repair of any car sold in North > America. I believe it was Consumer Reports that named the 80 Chevy Citation as one of the "ten worst" new cars in the US. I drove mine roughly a quarter million miles, and never had the heads off. Friend of mine bought a new Dodge Caravan that CR really liked ... he eventually sued the dealer under CA's "Lemon law" because it broke down so often. Randall From spamiam at comcast.net Thu Sep 13 12:03:53 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 18:03:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine Message-ID: <091320071803.14330.46E97B89000A918C000037FA2200751150030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Brian, It sure is an odd noise. Almost sounds like a waste gate on a turbo! Could it be an exhaust leak at the manifold? Does it seem louder there than elsewhate? -Tony ________________original message__________ >I'm having a tough time pin pointing the ugly noise coming from >my fresh >TR4a engine and hoping you can help! I totally rebuilt this engine >with new >or reworked EVERYTHING, so maybe I got something wrong? >Brian From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Sep 13 12:40:09 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:40:09 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR's TVT Magazine Message-ID: Got my issue today....one of the best. Thanks Mike Cook! Gary Horstkorta hit a home run with his article on his Competition TR4 and the use of Tony Viglioti's new Triumph Chassis. Congratulations to Bill Sohl....Honored Member of VTR. JA From dkspence at telus.net Thu Sep 13 14:17:09 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:17:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Inertia belts in a TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <871FF862-7A5F-4AA3-BA4E-121945899B08@telus.net> Has anyone installed the TRF inertia type seat-belts in a TR4A-sa? What is involved? Mods etc? It seems obvious that the two end anchors would mount to the original points. Yes/no? How is the reel mount reinforced? The shoulder belt guide? TIA Don From ggelhar at earthlink.net Thu Sep 13 15:13:13 2007 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 16:13:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake Line fittings Message-ID: <380-220079413211313625@earthlink.net> To All: Does anyone know of a website that could help me identify brake line threaded fittings? Double flare and inverted flares included, inch sizes and metric. A fellow club member is attempting to install a boosted TR6 master brake cylinder into a TR4A. The brake pipes do not match and custom line will be made, but what exactly is needed needs to be determined. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN .. From Btmfdchn at aol.com Thu Sep 13 15:42:55 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 17:42:55 EDT Subject: [TR] Brake Line fittings Message-ID: In a message dated 9/13/2007 2:16:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ggelhar at earthlink.net writes: Does anyone know of a website that could help me identify brake line threaded fittings? Double flare and inverted flares included, inch sizes and metric. Greetings.. Try _www.fedhillusa.com_ (http://www.fedhillusa.com) TJ ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Sep 13 16:15:48 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 16:15:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brake Line fittings In-Reply-To: <380-220079413211313625@earthlink.net> References: <380-220079413211313625@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <46E9B694.10801@tscusa.org> Greg Gelhar wrote: > To All: > > Does anyone know of a website that could help me identify brake line threaded fittings? Double flare and inverted flares included, inch sizes and metric. > > A fellow club member is attempting to install a boosted TR6 master brake cylinder into a TR4A. The brake pipes do not match and custom line will be made, but what exactly is needed needs to be determined. > > > Greg Gelhar > 1973 TR6 > 1980 TR8 > Osseo, MN .. > > Try this one! http://www.dimebank.com/BrakePlumbing.html -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 13 16:23:52 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 15:23:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake Line fittings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003d01c7f654$c3d57320$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Does anyone know of a website that could help me identify brake line > threaded fittings? Double flare and inverted flares > included, inch sizes and metric. > > > > > Greetings.. Try _www.fedhillusa.com_ > (http://www.fedhillusa.com) Note however, that they don't mention an important distinction between old British fittings and American fittings. Many old British fittings require a blank "lead" at the end of the nut, where there are no threads; similar to the A15-3 and A16-3 nuts shown in Fedhill's catalog. However, I don't see any 3/8-24 nuts in their catalog with that lead; and I know from experience that using nuts without the lead on the rear brake cylinders on a TR3A will first leak, then break the cylinders when you try to tighten them until they don't leak. BTW, while later Triumphs did use the 45-degree "bubble" flare in some places as mentioned, the TR3A was all double flare. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Thu Sep 13 17:58:53 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:58:53 EDT Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine Message-ID: Remove the valve cover and run it. A lot will be revealed. I would not redrill the hole in the cam bearing with an assembled engine. You are creating metal filings over which you have no control. But that's me. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From markvaden at gmail.com Thu Sep 13 18:41:20 2007 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 17:41:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] racing a tr4 Message-ID: <285b8a860709131741t66a18d22wdba45707706e67bb@mail.gmail.com> Hi List, I am starting to prepare my tr4 for vintage racing with VARA in southern california. It is a 62 TR4. I am at the very beginning stages. I have pulled a spare engine from the parts car and I have dropped it off at my mechanic. What I would like to know, is what things do other people who race view as really important. I cannot make everything perfect, and since I am a beginner I am more concerned with safety than having the fastest TR4 out there. What are the most important modifications for safety? And after that what are the must do modifications for performance? Thanks, Mark From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Sep 13 18:59:01 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 20:59:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000901c7f66a$70774760$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> It's a good point, but when you push the camshaft back in place, the filings should be contained. _____ From: DLylis at aol.com [mailto:DLylis at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 7:59 PM To: auprichard at comcast.net; vinttr4 at geneseo.net; foxtrapper at aceweb.com; 308gtsi at adelphia.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Noisy Engine Remove the valve cover and run it. A lot will be revealed. I would not redrill the hole in the cam bearing with an assembled engine. You are creating metal filings over which you have no control. But that's me. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO _____ See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Sep 13 19:49:47 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:49:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] racing a tr4 In-Reply-To: <285b8a860709131741t66a18d22wdba45707706e67bb@mail.gmail.com> References: <285b8a860709131741t66a18d22wdba45707706e67bb@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <46E9E8BB.5000004@tscusa.org> Mark Vaden wrote: > Hi List, > > I am starting to prepare my tr4 for vintage racing with VARA in > southern california. It is a 62 TR4. I am at the very beginning > stages. I have pulled a spare engine from the parts car and I have > dropped it off at my mechanic. What I would like to know, is what > things do other people who race view as really important. I cannot > make everything perfect, and since I am a beginner I am more concerned > with safety than having the fastest TR4 out there. What are the most > important modifications for safety? And after that what are the must > do modifications for performance? > > Thanks, > Mark > > Ohhh Mark, I envy you ... First, you need the SCCA checklist. Without these requirements on your car, you will not be able to race. http://www.sccabb.com/ Are you a member of the Friends Of Triumph Website? If not, sign up now. http://www.fot-racing.com/ Read all the associations Rule Books" http://www.vararacing.com/RulebookNew.html -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From bdischer at blakedischer.com Thu Sep 13 20:03:16 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 22:03:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] racing a tr4 In-Reply-To: <285b8a860709131741t66a18d22wdba45707706e67bb@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <03df01c7f673$6be8f690$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> Hey Mark, Issue number 105 of "The Vintage Triumph", the six-times-a-year magazine for VTR members, has a cover story about how Gary Horstkorta purchased and upgraded a 1962 TR4 racer. It's a great article. If you're a member, you should receive it within about one week. They've been mailed. Best, Blake J. Discher, Detroit Don't Crash My Triumph: http://www.fireflystudios.com/triumph/ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Vaden Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 8:41 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] racing a tr4 Hi List, I am starting to prepare my tr4 for vintage racing with VARA in southern california. It is a 62 TR4. I am at the very beginning stages. I have pulled a spare engine from the parts car and I have dropped it off at my mechanic. What I would like to know, is what things do other people who race view as really important. I cannot make everything perfect, and since I am a beginner I am more concerned with safety than having the fastest TR4 out there. What are the most important modifications for safety? And after that what are the must do modifications for performance? Thanks, Mark _______________________________________________ bdischer at blakedischer.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From DLylis at aol.com Thu Sep 13 20:15:09 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 22:15:09 EDT Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine Message-ID: In a message dated 9/13/2007 7:59:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: Itbs a good point, but when you push the camshaft back in place, the filings should be contained You are more of a gambler than I, that's for sure. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Sep 13 20:20:26 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 22:20:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] racing a tr4 In-Reply-To: <03df01c7f673$6be8f690$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> References: <285b8a860709131741t66a18d22wdba45707706e67bb@mail.gmail.com> <03df01c7f673$6be8f690$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> Message-ID: <002f01c7f675$d2872ff0$210110ac@bobspc> Got mine today.... Great article.....and car! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Blake J. Discher Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 10:03 PM To: 'Mark Vaden'; 'TR List' Subject: Re: [TR] racing a tr4 Hey Mark, Issue number 105 of "The Vintage Triumph", the six-times-a-year magazine for VTR members, has a cover story about how Gary Horstkorta purchased and upgraded a 1962 TR4 racer. It's a great article. If you're a member, you should receive it within about one week. They've been mailed. Best, Blake J. Discher, Detroit Don't Crash My Triumph: http://www.fireflystudios.com/triumph/ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Vaden Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 8:41 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] racing a tr4 Hi List, I am starting to prepare my tr4 for vintage racing with VARA in southern california. It is a 62 TR4. I am at the very beginning stages. I have pulled a spare engine from the parts car and I have dropped it off at my mechanic. What I would like to know, is what things do other people who race view as really important. I cannot make everything perfect, and since I am a beginner I am more concerned with safety than having the fastest TR4 out there. What are the most important modifications for safety? And after that what are the must do modifications for performance? Thanks, Mark _______________________________________________ bdischer at blakedischer.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007 5:22 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007 5:22 PM From dkspence at telus.net Thu Sep 13 20:27:45 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 20:27:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Could you not rig a hard tube to a powerful vacuum cleaner and push that through to the bearing in question and suck the filings out? Assuming you are pulling the camshaft that is. On Sep 13, 2007, at 8:15 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "Andrew Uprichard" > Date: September 13, 2007 6:59:01 PM MDT (CA) > To: , , > , <308gtsi at adelphia.net>, > > Subject: Re: [TR] Noisy Engine > > > It's a good point, but when you push the camshaft back in place, > the filings > should be contained. From emanteno at comcast.net Thu Sep 13 20:54:28 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 02:54:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] racing a tr4 Message-ID: <091420070254.27398.46E9F7E400001A8F00006B062207021573970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Mark Vaden" > What are the most important modifications for safety? And after that what are the must > do modifications for performance? The most important thing to do with the TR4 is to have the rear axles converted to Ford axles via the Southwick conversion. The stock axles will not hold up to the rigors of racing and one will break, a wheel will fall off, the axle tube will dig into the ground, and you will most likely end up upside down. The Southwick conversion was designed by TR4 vintage racer Jack Drews, along with machinist Bob Southwick, and uses the stock diff and axle assembly modified to use 1 piece Ford axles rated to take over 300 hp. Jack got involved when his first TR4 was destroyed after an axle failure at over 100 mph, which resulted in 3 rollovers. In the years since this conversion was created, we haven't heard of 1 failure. You can contact Jack to arrange for a conversion at vinttr4 at geneseo.net Don't expect an answer from him right away, he's at Road America this weekend. After that, I would reinforce the front hubs and/or buy the aluminum billet hubs from Southwick if he still has any available, and buy the front axle and bearing spacer kit. You'll be able to go a lot faster if you can keep the wheels on the car. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 14 00:33:03 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 23:33:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070914063214.GBOE16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I would not redrill the hole in the cam bearing with an > assembled engine. > You are creating metal filings over which you have no > control. True, but they aren't hard metal. And coating the flutes of the drill with grease (plus frequent cleaning) will trap most of them. The rest should wind up in the oil filter. At any rate, I did it (without even moving the camshaft) and it worked for me. Given a choice of tearing the engine down now, and tearing it down 10 years from now, I'll usually choose the latter. But that's just me. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Fri Sep 14 05:42:10 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 07:42:10 EDT Subject: [TR] Thermo capillary tube Message-ID: I am trying to separate the thermostat housing from the capillary tube. Service Manual says "remove the glad nut". This I have done but the temp sending unit on the inside of the housing will not budge. It does not appear to be excessively corroded, in fact is quite neat and clean in there. I do not want to damage it with too much force. Any tips? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From DLylis at aol.com Fri Sep 14 05:49:53 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 07:49:53 EDT Subject: [TR] Thermo capillary tube (never mind) Message-ID: I need to get the thinking and writing thing in the proper order. Thinking first, then writing. I got it out. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From TeamTiger21 at aol.com Fri Sep 14 08:40:22 2007 From: TeamTiger21 at aol.com (TeamTiger21 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 10:40:22 EDT Subject: [TR] Rebuilt carb start up Message-ID: OK I had the carbs rebuilt by Paltech and they are beautiful. Put them on last night and I can barely get the car to start let alone run. It backfires through the rear carb. Didn't touch the distributor. I have not put light oil in the pistons reservoirs yet. Thoughts? Barry Schonberger 6441 Lively Lane Evansville, IN 47720 (812) 464-1862w (812) 425-1315h (812) 465-7021fax teamtiger21 at aol.com ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From guy at genfiniti.com Fri Sep 14 08:58:48 2007 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 09:58:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rebuilt carb start up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c7f6df$c1c17710$6501a8c0@idea.com> Barry, My best guess would be that one of the intake valves for that carb is not functioning correctly. When it backfires are there any fuel droplets being shot out? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeamTiger21 at aol.com Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 9:40 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Rebuilt carb start up OK I had the carbs rebuilt by Paltech and they are beautiful. Put them on last night and I can barely get the car to start let alone run. It backfires through the rear carb. Didn't touch the distributor. I have not put light oil in the pistons reservoirs yet. Thoughts? Barry Schonberger 6441 Lively Lane Evansville, IN 47720 (812) 464-1862w (812) 425-1315h (812) 465-7021fax teamtiger21 at aol.com ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com _______________________________________________ guy at genfiniti.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 14 09:23:24 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 08:23:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rebuilt carb start up In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070914152235.FWAH4195.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > OK I had the carbs rebuilt by Paltech and they are beautiful. > Put them on last night and I can barely get the car to start > let alone run. It backfires through the rear carb. Didn't > touch the distributor. I have not put light oil in the > pistons reservoirs yet. Thoughts? Did you check that the chokes were at least roughly synchronized ? Carb mixture settings roughly equal ? Any chance the plug wires have been disturbed, or the valve lash might be wrong ? Should be able to idle OK without oil in the dampers, although it can definitely cause problems when you open the throttles. Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Sep 14 09:22:14 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 10:22:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rebuilt carb start up References: Message-ID: <001101c7f6e3$08b9ec80$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > OK I had the carbs rebuilt by Paltech and they are beautiful. Put them on > last night and I can barely get the car to start let alone run. It > backfires > through the rear carb. Didn't touch the distributor. I have not put light > oil in > the pistons reservoirs yet. Thoughts? I am wondering why you have not put in the damper oil. It would be difficult to tune the carbs without it. Also, you have not said whether these are SUs or Strombergs, although I suspect they are the former. If SUs (I know nothing about Strombergs), did you: a) Make sure the pistons slide freely throughout the whole of their travel (i.e center the jets)? b) Adjust the jets to the correct initial position (Screw the nut in until the top of the jet is flush with the bridge and then back it out two full turns)? c) Make sure the float level is correct (see previous recent correspondence on this topic)? d) Make sure that all of the throttle and choke linkages are free and not binding? But first, put the oil in the dampers. Mike From spitlist at cox.net Fri Sep 14 09:42:55 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 08:42:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fw: Important - Tax refund form Message-ID: <005101c7f6e5$eb77f740$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Has anyone else received one of these messages? Since I am not a member of Northern Star Credit Unin, nor have ever heard of them, I have concluded that this is just another internet SCAM that is designed to separate the unknowing from their hard-earned money. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: Northern Star C.U. Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 8:21 AM Subject: Important - Tax refund form Dear Customer, Your Debit Card must receive a refund worth $109.30$ USD from Northern Star Credit Union After the last annual calculations of your account activity we have determined that you are eligible to receive a tax refund of $109.30 credit. Please submit the tax refund request and allow us 6-9 days in order to process it. You can now get your refund now by signing in to your Northern Star C.U. Account and spare 2 minutes of your time to complete the required fields. Your Refund Tracking ID is : NSCU9691023019901909D. To get your Tax Refund Money now click the link below: https://www.nstarcu.org/onlineserv/HB/Signon.cgi?track=NSCU9691023019901909D& CUSTOMERREFUND=1 Regards, Northern Star Credit Union Customer Service Copyright ) 2007 - Northern Star Credit Union - All rights reserved. From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 14 09:38:09 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 08:38:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 metal pipe to bottom radiator hose Message-ID: <00a601c7f6e5$41c93ec0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> A couple of dumb questions.... The metal pipe that goes to the bottom radiator hose on a TR3. My old pipe had rusted until a hole appeared so I ordered a new one from Moss. The new one is longer than the old one so the first question is; is the new pipe the correct length and the old pipe was cut for what ever reason by the previous owner or does the new pipe need to be trimmed? I haven't actually tried the new pipe on the car yet to see what the length looks like installed. Also, I assume that the bend in the pipe goes toward the bottom, correct? Mike Denman From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Fri Sep 14 09:39:19 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 08:39:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fw: Important - Tax refund form In-Reply-To: <005101c7f6e5$eb77f740$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <005101c7f6e5$eb77f740$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: Several. First key is they come from someplace you are not a customer of. Marty On 9/14/07, Joe Curry wrote: > > Has anyone else received one of these messages? Since I am not a member > of > Northern Star Credit Unin, nor have ever heard of them, I have concluded > that > this is just another internet SCAM that is designed to separate the > unknowing > from their hard-earned money. > > Joe C. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Northern Star C.U. > Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 8:21 AM > Subject: Important - Tax refund form > > > Dear Customer, > > Your Debit Card must receive a refund worth $109.30$ USD from Northern > Star > Credit Union > > After the last annual calculations of your account activity we have > determined > that > you are eligible to receive a tax refund of $109.30 credit. > > Please submit the tax refund request and allow us 6-9 days in order to > process > it. > > You can now get your refund now by signing in to your Northern Star C.U. > Account > and spare 2 minutes of your time to complete the required fields. > > Your Refund Tracking ID is : NSCU9691023019901909D. > > To get your Tax Refund Money now click the link below: > > https://www.nstarcu.org/onlineserv/HB/Signon.cgi?track=NSCU9691023019901909D& > CUSTOMERREFUND=1 > > > Regards, Northern Star Credit Union Customer Service > > > Copyright ) 2007 - Northern Star Credit Union - All rights reserved. > _______________________________________________ > marty.tr6 at gmail.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > -- Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 http://collectiblecars.nytimes.com/View_Listing.asp?ListingID=COL610033 From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Fri Sep 14 10:08:29 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 17:08:29 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Fwd: RE: TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Message-ID: <352906.6232.qm@web27415.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hi Listers, I have now changed the dizzy cap and plug leads and the problem continues. Now seems to be missing on 1 and 2. I am now back to thinking that the problem is fuel starvation and the fuel pump is not delivering enough. If I hold my thumb over the end of the pipe it is easy to stop the flow. So the question is how much pressure should it deliver? I do not have a pressure guage so I need to know either how much pressure to exert with the thumb or how far should the squirts go before hitting the ground? Any other way to check? TIA Chris (arsonist -in-the making) Buckley --------------------------------- Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Tryit now. From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Sep 14 10:34:31 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 12:34:31 EDT Subject: [TR] Fw: Important - Tax refund form Message-ID: Yes....I still get them....it's a big time SCAM Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From CarlSereda at aol.com Fri Sep 14 10:37:46 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 12:37:46 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 metal pipe to bottom radiator hose Message-ID: Mike, I heard TRIUMPH made the lower radiator pipe longer when they discovered clamps on hoses weren't quite fully overlapping onto the short pipe cars coming out of the factory - not sure if that was for TR3 or TR4 though. My OE TR4 pipe was about 2 1/2 inches longer than the NOS short pipe I bought and returned last year from eBay. You should be able to configure your new pipe on a TR3 to fit with trimming. Just make sure you end up with plenty of hose overlap and ample clearance all around upper area.. I've seen steel pipe worn through as well as hoses and clamps ruined due to changing clearances (and subsequent rubbing on nearby items) when engine torques around. On the TR4 the bend in steel pipe is down on the low side. Carl '63 TR4 since '74 A couple of dumb questions.... The metal pipe that goes to the bottom radiator hose on a TR3. My old pipe had rusted until a hole appeared so I ordered a new one from Moss. The new one is longer than the old one so the first question is; is the new pipe the correct length and the old pipe was cut for what ever reason by the previous owner or does the new pipe need to be trimmed? I haven't actually tried the new pipe on the car yet to see what the length looks like installed. Also, I assume that the bend in the pipe goes toward the bottom, correct? Mike Denman


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See what's new at http://www.aol.com From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 14 11:13:46 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 11:13:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: RE: TR4A missing. The saga continues.... In-Reply-To: <352906.6232.qm@web27415.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20070914171336.298A91879C1@autox.team.net> I assume you have a stock mechanical fuel pump... About 2-3psi is all that is needed, remember the pressure can't be so high as to force past the float bowl check-valve. I have not tried the distance test with my car but would think it would not squirt more than a couple of feet, depends a lot on the hose size. Speaking of which, have you check the float levels to be sure they are no set too low? Have you swapped the HT leads between plugs? Still #3? Have you swapped plugs between cylinders? Still #3? Have you checked for an intake manifold leak that could be throwing the balance off? You have an interesting problem, and a lot armchair mechanic's input, we are all waiting to hear the solution in order to add it to the database of our minds. :-) Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Buckley Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 10:08 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Fwd: RE: TR4A missing. The saga continues.... Hi Listers, I have now changed the dizzy cap and plug leads and the problem continues. Now seems to be missing on 1 and 2. I am now back to thinking that the problem is fuel starvation and the fuel pump is not delivering enough. If I hold my thumb over the end of the pipe it is easy to stop the flow. So the question is how much pressure should it deliver? I do not have a pressure guage so I need to know either how much pressure to exert with the thumb or how far should the squirts go before hitting the ground? Any other way to check? TIA Chris (arsonist -in-the making) Buckley --------------------------------- Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Tryit now. _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.19/1008 - Release Date: 9/14/2007 8:59 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.19/1008 - Release Date: 9/14/2007 8:59 AM From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com Fri Sep 14 11:59:06 2007 From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 13:59:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Lights Message-ID: A quick question to the list; Are the smaller upper right & left corner lights on the front of a 1962 TR4 parking lights or directional lights? Thanks, John D From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com Fri Sep 14 12:01:25 2007 From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 14:01:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Front Lights Message-ID: A quick question to the list; Are the smaller upper right & left corner lights on the front of a 1962 TR4 parking lights or directional lights? Thanks, John D From pethier at comcast.net Fri Sep 14 12:17:43 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 18:17:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 Lights Message-ID: <091420071817.965.46EAD047000AC27B000003C522007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: John Dunham > Are the smaller upper right & left corner > lights on the front of a 1962 TR4 parking lights or directional lights? The smaller upper right & left corner lights are parking lights. The turn signals are the larger ones mounted lower. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From one_second_zero at yahoo.com Fri Sep 14 12:36:37 2007 From: one_second_zero at yahoo.com (Greg) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 11:36:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? Message-ID: <981882.69321.qm@web50612.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi, I saw that TRF has the Pertronix electronic ignition on sale this weekend for $89 and was wondering if those of you who are using this set up would recommend it. I'm currently running stock points and haven't really had any specific problems with reliability, but have wondered if my still slightly erratic idle might be ignition related. (I just had the carbs sent away and rebuilt and tuned them, so they *should* be fine.) So, those that have used the Pertronix, are you happy with the results and the quality? Does it really gain anything over stock points? Do I have to use the their coil with it or can I use the OEM Lucas sports coil (which I just bought)? thanks, Greg H 1976 TR6 --------------------------------- Check out the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos. From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Fri Sep 14 12:43:24 2007 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 14:43:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? In-Reply-To: <981882.69321.qm@web50612.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <981882.69321.qm@web50612.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20070914143825.04a45c00@216.7.163.243> Greg, I used to have to adjust my points frequently in my '76 TR6. Even after changing everything out but the dist itself. In December of last year, I installed a Pertronix, and never looked back. Set and forget. :) Great system if you ask me, and you cant beat the convenience for the price. I installed mine with one of the Pertronix coils, thinking I HAD to. But there was a discussion recently... on either the British Car Forum, or 6-Pack's web site... which mentioned that you didnt have to do that, and a standard Lucus coil worked fine. I have yet to try that though, since this coil I have is working fine and dandy! - Aldwyn At 02:36 PM 9/14/2007, Greg wrote: >Hi, I saw that TRF has the Pertronix electronic ignition on sale this >weekend for $89 and was wondering if those of you who are using this set >up would recommend it. I'm currently running stock points and haven't >really had any specific problems with reliability, but have wondered if my >still slightly erratic idle might be ignition related. (I just had the >carbs sent away and rebuilt and tuned them, so they *should* be >fine.) So, those that have used the Pertronix, are you happy with the >results and the quality? Does it really gain anything over stock >points? Do I have to use the their coil with it or can I use the OEM >Lucas sports coil (which I just bought)? > > thanks, Greg H > 1976 TR6 From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Sep 14 13:15:02 2007 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 14:15:02 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? Message-ID: <14148931.2814801189797302247.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net> Greg, I have the setup with a normal coil and it is fine. Been this way for a year or so. Craig 72 Triumph TR6 >From: Aldwyn >Date: 2007/09/14 Fri PM 01:43:24 CDT >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Cc: Greg >Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? >Greg, > >I used to have to adjust my points frequently in my '76 TR6. Even after >changing everything out but the dist itself. > >In December of last year, I installed a Pertronix, and never looked >back. Set and forget. :) Great system if you ask me, and you cant beat >the convenience for the price. > >I installed mine with one of the Pertronix coils, thinking I HAD to. But >there was a discussion recently... on either the British Car Forum, or >6-Pack's web site... which mentioned that you didnt have to do that, and a >standard Lucus coil worked fine. I have yet to try that though, since this >coil I have is working fine and dandy! > >- Aldwyn > > >At 02:36 PM 9/14/2007, Greg wrote: >>Hi, I saw that TRF has the Pertronix electronic ignition on sale this >>weekend for $89 and was wondering if those of you who are using this set >>up would recommend it. I'm currently running stock points and haven't >>really had any specific problems with reliability, but have wondered if my >>still slightly erratic idle might be ignition related. (I just had the >>carbs sent away and rebuilt and tuned them, so they *should* be >>fine.) So, those that have used the Pertronix, are you happy with the >>results and the quality? Does it really gain anything over stock >>points? Do I have to use the their coil with it or can I use the OEM >>Lucas sports coil (which I just bought)? >> >> thanks, Greg H >> 1976 TR6 >_______________________________________________ >thenicholls at verizon.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From mrm at clking.com Fri Sep 14 13:18:15 2007 From: mrm at clking.com (Mitch R. Meisler) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 15:18:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? In-Reply-To: <6.2.1.2.2.20070914143825.04a45c00@216.7.163.243> References: <981882.69321.qm@web50612.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <6.2.1.2.2.20070914143825.04a45c00@216.7.163.243> Message-ID: <30E72F324648024B956BC3B3C1CF9B240120D85F@clking01exc02.clkingw2k.local> Have pertronix on two of my tr's (4a, 250) and crane electronicon my tr6. I Use lucas sport coils on all three. U can widen spark plug gap to .35 with no issues. And the difference in starting and running the cars is noticeable immediately Mitch Meisler Managing Director, Institutional Sales CL King & Associates 410 Park Avenue, 16th floor New York, NY 10022 212-572-3633-work 518-528-2263-cell AOL IM = MEISLERCLKA E-MAIL = mrm at clking.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Aldwyn Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 2:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Greg Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? Greg, I used to have to adjust my points frequently in my '76 TR6. Even after changing everything out but the dist itself. In December of last year, I installed a Pertronix, and never looked back. Set and forget. :) Great system if you ask me, and you cant beat the convenience for the price. I installed mine with one of the Pertronix coils, thinking I HAD to. But there was a discussion recently... on either the British Car Forum, or 6-Pack's web site... which mentioned that you didnt have to do that, and a standard Lucus coil worked fine. I have yet to try that though, since this coil I have is working fine and dandy! - Aldwyn At 02:36 PM 9/14/2007, Greg wrote: >Hi, I saw that TRF has the Pertronix electronic ignition on sale this >weekend for $89 and was wondering if those of you who are using this >set up would recommend it. I'm currently running stock points and >haven't really had any specific problems with reliability, but have >wondered if my still slightly erratic idle might be ignition related. >(I just had the carbs sent away and rebuilt and tuned them, so they >*should* be >fine.) So, those that have used the Pertronix, are you happy with the >results and the quality? Does it really gain anything over stock >points? Do I have to use the their coil with it or can I use the OEM >Lucas sports coil (which I just bought)? > > thanks, Greg H > 1976 TR6 _______________________________________________ mrm at clking.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________ From one_second_zero at yahoo.com Fri Sep 14 13:36:03 2007 From: one_second_zero at yahoo.com (Greg) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 12:36:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? In-Reply-To: <30E72F324648024B956BC3B3C1CF9B240120D85F@clking01exc02.clkingw2k.local> Message-ID: <184088.52412.qm@web50607.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Thanks for the replies! Very helpful! "Mitch R. Meisler" wrote: Have pertronix on two of my tr's (4a, 250) and crane electronicon my tr6. I Use lucas sport coils on all three. U can widen spark plug gap to .35 with no issues. And the difference in starting and running the cars is noticeable immediately Mitch Meisler Managing Director, Institutional Sales CL King & Associates 410 Park Avenue, 16th floor New York, NY 10022 212-572-3633-work 518-528-2263-cell AOL IM = MEISLERCLKA E-MAIL = mrm at clking.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Aldwyn Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 2:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Greg Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? Greg, I used to have to adjust my points frequently in my '76 TR6. Even after changing everything out but the dist itself. In December of last year, I installed a Pertronix, and never looked back. Set and forget. :) Great system if you ask me, and you cant beat the convenience for the price. I installed mine with one of the Pertronix coils, thinking I HAD to. But there was a discussion recently... on either the British Car Forum, or 6-Pack's web site... which mentioned that you didnt have to do that, and a standard Lucus coil worked fine. I have yet to try that though, since this coil I have is working fine and dandy! - Aldwyn At 02:36 PM 9/14/2007, Greg wrote: >Hi, I saw that TRF has the Pertronix electronic ignition on sale this >weekend for $89 and was wondering if those of you who are using this >set up would recommend it. I'm currently running stock points and >haven't really had any specific problems with reliability, but have >wondered if my still slightly erratic idle might be ignition related. >(I just had the carbs sent away and rebuilt and tuned them, so they >*should* be >fine.) So, those that have used the Pertronix, are you happy with the >results and the quality? Does it really gain anything over stock >points? Do I have to use the their coil with it or can I use the OEM >Lucas sports coil (which I just bought)? > > thanks, Greg H > 1976 TR6 _______________________________________________ mrm at clking.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________ --------------------------------- Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. From Btmfdchn at aol.com Fri Sep 14 13:51:59 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 15:51:59 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/14/2007 11:37:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time, one_second_zero at yahoo.com writes: Hi, I saw that TRF has the Pertronix electronic ignition on sale this weekend for $89 and was wondering if those of you who are using this set up would recommend it. I'm currently running stock points and haven't really had any specific problems with reliability, but have wondered if my still slightly erratic idle might be ignition related. (I just had the carbs sent away and rebuilt and tuned them, so they *should* be fine.) So, those that have used the Pertronix, are you happy with the results and the quality? Does it really gain anything over stock points? Do I have to use the their coil with it or can I use the OEM Lucas sports coil (which I just bought)? Greetings... I've used Pertronix on 2 cars and both eventually failed. After talking to the people at Pertronix, I've installed one in my 66 TR4a engine with the Pertronix coil as they the Ignitors seem to be somewhat sensitive to coil resistance. They also suggest but don't require radio suppression wires. The 66 now has Pertronix Ignitor and their coil and I converted to the MGB top entrance cap (using the Italian made bits from Autozone) with Magnecor wires. Works great. The thing that had the greatest impact on how the cars ran was getting the distributors rebuilt so no shaft slop and a proper curve. That made a bigger difference than just the Pertronix alone. The 61 also has a rebuilt distributor and is running points (CarQuest Standard Motor Parts) but with the side entrance cap, Packard 440 wire and Rajah terminals (old hotrodder here) and it runs as well as the car with Pertronix. The big difference will be the need to fiddle with the points down the line. TJ ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Sep 14 15:00:08 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 17:00:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 photo angle looks 'mean' Message-ID: <013e01c7f712$3d13d390$9e0260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> There is a normal-like photo of a TR2, however, from it's pavement angle of the shot it appears 'more mean' looking than normal, or has something else been done to the car to make it look this way? I WANNA KNOW! This TR2 photo appears on the cover of the Sept. issue of (Hemming's) Sports and Exotics. However, I have ONLY seen a tiny picture of this magazine in the recent Moss British Motoring (In BM o the page after the table of contents). Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 tr3 From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Fri Sep 14 15:47:47 2007 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 21:47:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? Message-ID: <091420072147.8014.46EB0183000619EC00001F4E22070216339D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net> I've had it fail on me twice, magnets come loose in the collar. Doesn't run well when the cylinders are firing at random intervals. Points work just fine for me. > > Greetings... I've used Pertronix on 2 cars and both eventually failed. > After talking to the people at Pertronix, I've installed one in my 66 TR4a > engine with the Pertronix coil as they the Ignitors seem to be somewhat > sensitive > to coil resistance. They also suggest but don't require radio suppression > wires. The 66 now has Pertronix Ignitor and their coil and I converted to the > MGB top entrance cap (using the Italian made bits from Autozone) with > Magnecor wires. Works great. The thing that had the greatest impact on how > the > cars ran was getting the distributors rebuilt so no shaft slop and a proper > curve. That made a bigger difference than just the Pertronix alone. The 61 > also has a rebuilt distributor and is running points (CarQuest Standard Motor > Parts) but with the side entrance cap, Packard 440 wire and Rajah terminals > (old hotrodder here) and it runs as well as the car with Pertronix. The big > difference will be the need to fiddle with the points down the line. TJ From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Sep 14 19:14:34 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 21:14:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: Important - Tax refund form In-Reply-To: <005101c7f6e5$eb77f740$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <46EAF9BA.17491.16939DE@localhost> On 14 Sep 2007 at 8:42, Joe Curry wrote: > Has anyone else received one of these messages? > Dear Customer, > > Your Debit Card must receive a refund worth $109.30$ USD from Northern Star > Credit Union Not that one specifically, but I receive stuff like this all the time. One tip-off is the extraneous "$". Of course the ultimate tip-off is when it reads: To: undisclosed recipients Dearest undisclosed recipient, Please pardon the intrusion this request to your urgent reply. I represent the Treasurer's Office of a company for which my brother died and left $10,100,022 in UK dollars in an account which... If you use a POP3 email client, Popfile is a very good spam filter. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.18/1007 - Release Date: 9/13/2007 9:48 PM From Lbc.Resto at comcast.net Sat Sep 15 05:51:01 2007 From: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net (Ian) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 07:51:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever In-Reply-To: <3E8F6125-515E-41A7-84B7-EE9785FD41CB@telus.net> References: <3E8F6125-515E-41A7-84B7-EE9785FD41CB@telus.net> Message-ID: <000001c7f78e$b18c5810$0502a8c0@RAS> Austin 1100, closely followed by Chrysler Alpine and 1999 Chevy Malibu. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Spence Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 11:36 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] My worst car ever I recall an R&T article that claimed the P6 Rover had, from new, the highest frequency of repair of any car sold in North America. The same article claimed Mercedes as one of the cheapest imports to own. Low maintenance/repair plus high resale value meant a low cost per mile. On 12-Sep-07, at 9:11 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: Re: [TR] My worst car ever > > > Just to throw my $0.02 into this discussion, my worst car was a 1970 > Rover 3500S. Aluminum V8, bolt-on body panels (you could, in theory > change the color of the car with a wrench), 4-wheel disc brakes > (inboard > in the rear), very comfy interior, and all sorts of electrical > bells and > whistles. It suffered an unending string of quality problems, from a > pinion bolt in the diff that came loose at speed because the doofus at > the factory didn't bother to bend over the retaining clip, to an > assortment of Lucas and Smith gizmos that simply crumbled to bits. > > But when it was running, it was a real treat. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Sep 15 06:08:14 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 12:08:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever/Best car ever Message-ID: <091520071208.29248.46EBCB2D000EAE610000724022165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Easy. Worst car ever was a 1959 TR3A I found in a shed in Ossinee, NY. It was covered with a 30 year, five inch encrustation of dried, powdery racoon dung. (How's that for powder-coated?) Floors had rusted out and the wheels were froze. Least reliable car I ever owned. My then 14 year old daughter looked at it on the trailer when I brought it home and asked, "What's THAT thing doing in the yard?" Best car ever is a 1959 TR3A, found in a shed in Ossinee, NY. Rebuilt from the ground up over 3.5 years. New floors. Even scrubbed off and painted over the racoon manure, but that's just me. Fast, dependable, and fun. My daughter? Now her friends from school think I'm cool. Little do they know, it ain't so. And her first car became a Mitsubishi Eclipse convertible. Fast, somewhat dependable, and fun. From ebartle at hbci.com Sat Sep 15 09:29:48 2007 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 10:29:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wiring TR3 Message-ID: <20070915153028.B006E31BEB@mail.hbci.com> Anyone who considers themselves a "wiring guru" or has a resource for help in wiring a TR3 please contact me. Thanks Eric From Chip19474 at aol.com Sat Sep 15 09:50:30 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 11:50:30 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/14/2007 11:37:39 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, one_second_zero at yahoo.com writes: are you happy with the results and the quality? Greg, I installed the Pertronix ignition as part of my '76 TR6 restoration (finished in 2003) and have been very happy with the results. I'm using a Lucas Sport Coil. You mentioned an erratic idle. One of the benefits of Pertronix is that it compensates for a slightly worn (wobbly) distributor shaft. With points, wobbly shafts can cause the dwell angle to change which can slightly change the timing which can lead to erratic performance....not an issue which Pertronix. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From DLylis at aol.com Sat Sep 15 12:00:17 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 14:00:17 EDT Subject: [TR] Storing parts Message-ID: I have a lot of parts left over from my rebuild and want to store them. I have sprayed the parts with PB Blaster and spayed newsprint and wrapped the parts for storage in a closed box. Any chemists out there know whether or not this is a spontaneous incendiary device waiting to happen. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From steven at newellboys.com Sat Sep 15 14:04:02 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 13:04:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Storing parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46EC3AB2.8060609@newellboys.com> DLylis at aol.com wrote: >I have a lot of parts left over from my rebuild and want to store them. I have sprayed the parts with PB Blaster and spayed newsprint and wrapped the parts for storage in a closed box. Any chemists out there know whether or not this is a spontaneous incendiary device waiting to happen. > Rather than a penetrating oil like PB Blaster, you might just use motor oil since it has few volatiles. But ultimately, your best protection is to store in a climate controlled location where hot/cold cycles won't cause condensation. If your garage isn't heated, then NOT the garage. I'd suggest under the bed or in the sock drawer, since these locations might help convince your SO that you need to install an industrial heater in the garage. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 etc. From DLylis at aol.com Sat Sep 15 16:15:51 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 18:15:51 EDT Subject: [TR] Storing parts Message-ID: In a message dated 9/15/2007 3:04:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, steven at newellboys.com writes: I'd suggest under the bed or in the sock drawer, You must be single. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From DLylis at aol.com Sat Sep 15 16:22:31 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 18:22:31 EDT Subject: [TR] Storing parts Message-ID: I chose PB Blaster because it does not evaporate. I have used thin oil for this purpose in the past and was disappointed a couple of years later. This is long term storage. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Sep 15 17:35:36 2007 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 16:35:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] now that the weather is getting nice.... Message-ID: Last spring I ordered a Moss seat recovering kit (during the usual spring sale) and a Dan Masters wiring kit (When he offers a $50 off sale)! Now that the weather is getting nice enough to spend time out in the garage I have ordered a Triumph Rescue Alternator replacement kit - no sale! I plan to start to strip the interior to do the rewiring and thus upholstery in a couple of weeks. Any advice on either would be appreciated! Particularly the upholstery, as the closest I have come to doing that is installing sheep skin seat covers in a couple of other toy cars (72 240Z, 79 Porsche 924, & my 77 Porsche 911). Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 15 17:40:31 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 16:40:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Storing parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01b101c7f7f1$cdca6180$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Any chemists out there > know whether or not > this is a spontaneous incendiary device waiting to happen. I'm no chemist; but I suspect the answer depends on the physical configuration. Paper + oil will spontaneously combust under some circumstances, due to self-heating as the oil oxidizes. But it has to be in a configuration where the paper can get hot enough to ignite, which usually means a sizeable pile where the outer layers serve as insulation for the inner layers (but allow enough air through to support the oxidation). Most likely, with just a few layers wrapped around a non-flammable (and heat conductive) item, you won't have a problem. Of course, if something else happens, and your insurance agent learns of the "fire hazard" you deliberately created, it may not matter exactly what the problem was ! Randall From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Sep 15 18:18:04 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:18:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] now that the weather is getting nice.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: John, I've got a copy of instruction for the seats, I'll email them to you off list. It scared me so I found a place in Tempe to remove my old seat covers, in great shape, and install the replacement seat foam kit and diaphragms. Something like Urbeana Upholstery. Think it was around $200 and they also fixed a lot of my snaps on both covers. Are you gone to have the car ready for Triumphest Oct 11 - 14th? I'm going for the first time ever. Just dropped a spare raditor off at a shop in Mesa to be roded(?) or re-cored if it's too bad. New tires next. Gotta replace those 1984 redlines. Still have good tread but don't dare think about driving that far on the highway with them. Marty On 9/15/07, 60TR3A <60TR3A at cox.net> wrote: > > Any advice on either would be appreciated! Particularly the upholstery, > .... > > Thanks > > John From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sat Sep 15 19:01:11 2007 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 18:01:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] now that the weather is getting nice.... References: Message-ID: <005301c7f7fd$18568b60$8701a8c0@Dell> John, the seats are not that hard to recover, the hard part is getting them ready to recover :-) The seat backs and the pan on the drivers side, the one that is one piece, has wood strips for the covers to be tacked to. They are probably rotted and in need of replacement. If you are not replacing the springs, you may have to repair some of them. You may want to get some new padding as well. I know I took some pictures when I did mine, I'll look for them if you are interested. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "60TR3A" <60TR3A at cox.net> To: "TR List" Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 4:35 PM Subject: [TR] now that the weather is getting nice.... > Last spring I ordered a Moss seat recovering kit (during the usual > spring sale) and a Dan Masters wiring kit (When he offers a $50 off > sale)! Now that the weather is getting nice enough to spend time out > in the garage I have ordered a Triumph Rescue Alternator replacement > kit - no sale! > > I plan to start to strip the interior to do the rewiring and thus > upholstery in a couple of weeks. Any advice on either would be > appreciated! Particularly the upholstery, as the closest I have come > to doing that is installing sheep skin seat covers in a couple of > other toy cars (72 240Z, 79 Porsche 924, & my 77 Porsche 911). > > Thanks > > John > > John A. Wise > Glendale, AZ From spamiam at comcast.net Sat Sep 15 19:53:31 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 21:53:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? Message-ID: <001101c7f804$627e9910$6401a8c0@p4server> I had been working on my TR4a trying to get it to run really smoothly. I tuned the SU carbs, and got them running great. A wideband oxygen meter showed rather good mixtures throughout the load/rpm spectrum. I had to use RL needles instead of TW needles. This corresponds to the 10% ethanol we have here in PA. BUT the engine still was not quite smooth enough. My distributor has only 30k miles on it, and all the ignition components are new. So, I installed the pertronix. My dwell started at 60 degrees and stayed there with the Pertronix. On a timing light, the timing mark jiggled around less. With the Pertronix it was rock steady. But the overall smoothness of the engine was not improved in a meaningful way as far as the "seat of the pants" felt. I then installed a push-in terminal type of cap (listed as fitting a 1970 MGB), and magnecore wires (for the TR4A). Now this DID make a difference. It runs really well. That last change did the trick. I did not go back to points to see how they work. THe new cap and wires are cheaper than the Pertronix, and I would recommend that you try this first. If that is not good enough, then get the Pertronix. I have seen several failures of Pertronix units, so I am somewhat wary of them. At the VTR national, I removed the MGB cap (and the magnecore wires) along with the rotor. I pulled the pertronix leads off the coil and stuffed them under a stock type of cap. I then hooked the stock ignition wires to the plugs, and I had a dummy low tension wire to go from the coil to the distributor. It looked perfectly stock, but would not run, of course. Undoing the "cosmetic conversion" took about 2 minutes and I was up and running perfectly again! -Tony >Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 11:36:37 -0700 (PDT) >From: Greg >Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Message-ID: <981882.69321.qm at web50612.mail.re2.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Hi, I saw that TRF has the Pertronix electronic ignition on sale this weekend for $89 and was wondering if those of you who are using this set >up would recommend it. I'm currently running stock points and haven't really had any specific problems with reliability, but have wondered if >my still slightly erratic idle might be ignition related. (I just had the carbs sent away and rebuilt and tuned them, so they *should* be fine.) So, >those that have used the Pertronix, are you happy with the results and the quality? Does it really gain anything over stock points? Do I have >to use the their coil with it or can I use the OEM Lucas sports coil (which I just bought)? > > thanks, Greg H > 1976 TR6 From jimbpps at cox.net Sat Sep 15 20:21:12 2007 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 19:21:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] now that the weather is getting nice.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <38FC8248BD7443D7BA84326A49E58DA1@JimofficePC> John, I installed Dan's wiring kit in my TR250 and have reupholstered 2 or 3 TR3s and my TR250 also have done a couple of frame-offs, so I do have some experience. I would be glad to give you a hand some time after Triumphest, Oct. 10~14. It is in Laughlin, NV this year and is sponsored by your local Triumph club the Desert Centre Triumph Club! If you want to see a bunch of TR3s, etc. come on up to Laughlin Saturday morning 10/13 from about 8:00 'til 12:00 or so, and do a long walk through of the Funcours (car show!) there will be a lot of great examples there! You should come to one of our meetings some time! See: http://www.dctra.org/ For meeting dates, time, and location! Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 60TR3A Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 4:36 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] now that the weather is getting nice.... Last spring I ordered a Moss seat recovering kit (during the usual spring sale) and a Dan Masters wiring kit (When he offers a $50 off sale)! Now that the weather is getting nice enough to spend time out in the garage I have ordered a Triumph Rescue Alternator replacement kit - no sale! I plan to start to strip the interior to do the rewiring and thus upholstery in a couple of weeks. Any advice on either would be appreciated! Particularly the upholstery, as the closest I have come to doing that is installing sheep skin seat covers in a couple of other toy cars (72 240Z, 79 Porsche 924, & my 77 Porsche 911). Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ _______________________________________________ jimbpps at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From banjonut at verizon.net Sat Sep 15 22:12:54 2007 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 21:12:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A heater question Message-ID: <004e01c7f817$db89dcd0$6500a8c0@HAMPC> OK folks...I'm back with yet another question. I reassembled the heater in my TR3A and now I'm trying to install it. The car was in pieces when I got it, so I don't know how the heater is supposed to be oriented in the car. It's confusing since you can rotate the bottom plate (with the doors) with respect to top plate and bracket, and clamp it together almost anywhere you want. Maybe somebody can look at theirs and help me answer these questions: 1. Am I correct that I orient the bottom plate so that the trap door hinges aim roughly toward the front and the rear of the car, and the trap doors open to give heat to the driver or the passenger? This seems likely. 2. If #1 is true, there are two ways to install the bottom plate to make the trap door hinges run fore and aft.....which way is correct? Is the connection for the defroster hoses supposed to be near the glove box, or the speedometer? Please cc my home email since I get the digest: banjonut at verizon.net Thanks in advance, Steve Ball TS68164L Lompoc Ca. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 16 00:46:03 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 23:46:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A heater question In-Reply-To: <004e01c7f817$db89dcd0$6500a8c0@HAMPC> Message-ID: <20070916064512.JKHQ4108.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > 1. Am I correct that I orient the bottom plate so that the > trap door hinges aim roughly toward the front and the rear of > the car, and the trap doors open to give heat to the driver > or the passenger? This seems likely. Indeed, and it's true as well > 2. If #1 is true, there are two ways to install the bottom > plate to make the trap door hinges run fore and aft.....which > way is correct? Is the connection for the defroster hoses > supposed to be near the glove box, Goes on the RH side of the car, which would be near the glove box if you have a LHD car. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sun Sep 16 05:17:29 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 07:17:29 EDT Subject: [TR] list badges Message-ID: Is JB Weld a proven method for reattaching the screws? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Sep 16 10:09:09 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 12:09:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A heater question References: <20070916064512.JKHQ4108.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <003d01c7f87b$eaa00550$521f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Steve Ball'" ; Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 2:46 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A heater question >> 1. Am I correct that I orient the bottom plate so that the >> trap door hinges aim roughly toward the front and the rear of >> the car, and the trap doors open to give heat to the driver >> or the passenger? This seems likely. > > Indeed, and it's true as well > >> 2. If #1 is true, there are two ways to install the bottom >> plate to make the trap door hinges run fore and aft.....which >> way is correct? Is the connection for the defroster hoses >> supposed to be near the glove box, > > Goes on the RH side of the car, which would be near the glove box if you > have a LHD car. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From banjonut at verizon.net Sun Sep 16 10:28:33 2007 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 09:28:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A heater mystery solved Message-ID: <003f01c7f87e$a0331ae0$6500a8c0@HAMPC> Thanks to the list the mystery has been solved. The little trap doors open to give heat to driver and passenger, and the defroster hoses go near the glove box on a LHD car. The only photo I had of an assembled heater was one I found on somebody's eBay auction, and it had the bottom plate turned around almost 180 degrees. I was trying to fit mine that way yesterday, and the location of the defroster hoses didn't look right. Maybe the heater on eBay came from a RHD car, who knows? At any rate, I plan to install it the right way today. Thanks again to those who responded. Have a great Sunday. Steve From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Sep 16 14:18:24 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 16:18:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46ED8F90.1040607@earthlink.net> Who rebuilt your distributor? About how much? Did you go stock or change the advance curve? Thanks, Joe Btmfdchn at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 9/14/2007 11:37:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > one_second_zero at yahoo.com writes: > > Hi, I saw that TRF has the Pertronix electronic ignition on sale this > weekend for $89 and was wondering if those of you who are using this set up would > recommend it. I'm currently running stock points and haven't really had any > specific problems with reliability, but have wondered if my still slightly > erratic idle might be ignition related. (I just had the carbs sent away and > rebuilt and tuned them, so they *should* be fine.) So, those that have used the > Pertronix, are you happy with the results and the quality? Does it really > gain anything over stock points? Do I have to use the their coil with it or > can I use the OEM Lucas sports coil (which I just bought)? > > > > > Greetings... I've used Pertronix on 2 cars and both eventually failed. > After talking to the people at Pertronix, I've installed one in my 66 TR4a > engine with the Pertronix coil as they the Ignitors seem to be somewhat sensitive > to coil resistance. They also suggest but don't require radio suppression > wires. The 66 now has Pertronix Ignitor and their coil and I converted to the > MGB top entrance cap (using the Italian made bits from Autozone) with > Magnecor wires. Works great. The thing that had the greatest impact on how the > cars ran was getting the distributors rebuilt so no shaft slop and a proper > curve. That made a bigger difference than just the Pertronix alone. The 61 > also has a rebuilt distributor and is running points (CarQuest Standard Motor > Parts) but with the side entrance cap, Packard 440 wire and Rajah terminals > (old hotrodder here) and it runs as well as the car with Pertronix. The big > difference will be the need to fiddle with the points down the line. TJ > > > > ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > supertr6 at earthlink.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Sep 16 14:33:12 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 16:33:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] dry needle drift? Message-ID: <074701c7f8a0$ced77130$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've had my car up on scaffolding (automotive?) for the past 6-8 mths. while my attention has turned to other parts of the car. It has been slow. My attention is slow, too. About a year ago I had it running for several hours(the first since a professional rebuild). The rebuild did not include the SU H-6 carbs. I rebuilt them myself and I think I need to 'refreshen' them again, especially since the needles' no longer are centered (Dry needle drift?). Upon removing the rear carb from the intake I see a puddle of Marvel's Mystery Oil in the intake manifold. It has that distinct aroma. Although I've been caught fondling with the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners and playing with the SU piston's, I've had little other interaction with my engine for almost a year. I am curious, "why the Mystery oil?" Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3- "Camille" From Btmfdchn at aol.com Sun Sep 16 16:29:04 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 18:29:04 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6: Pertronix ignition, worth switching to? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/16/2007 1:17:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time, supertr6 at earthlink.net writes: Who rebuilt your distributor? About how much? Did you go stock or change the advance curve? Thanks, Joe Greetings... Advanced Distributors (_www.advanceddistributors.com_ (http://www.advanceddistributors.com) ) did the deed on my 4 cyl units for $69 (basic rebuild). If it needs a shaft bushing, another $30. Vac Advance rebuilt was $50. A slightly more aggressive curve to deal with todays "gasoline". Quick turnaround. Check his website and the questionnaire about your use. NFI, just a happy user. TJ ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From DLylis at aol.com Sun Sep 16 17:51:28 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 19:51:28 EDT Subject: [TR] dry needle drift? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/16/2007 3:32:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, dorpaul at negia.net writes: Although I've been caught fondling with the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners and playing with the SU piston's, I've had little other interaction with my engine for almost a year. I am curious, "why the Mystery oil?" Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3- "Camille" As tempted as I am to comment on playing with "Camille's" small knurled caps, and the resulting puddle of "mystery oil", I am going to pass. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Sep 16 18:47:42 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 20:47:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] British Invasion or maybe Submersion.... Message-ID: <000001c7f8c4$5e660050$210110ac@bobspc> I'm 3 for 3 on shows this year...... VTR - storms everyday, CTR - rain driving to show, British Invasion - RAIN & MUD. But I did get to hook up with a few list members who were brave enough to come to the show and drive their cars out on to the "field"/swamp. It's a shame because this is a great show in a beautiful location that can attract 700 cars in good weather. I just posted a bunch of "unusual" pictures on my site. Just follow the British Invasion link (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Stowe.htm) on the main page. It's BIG page so be patient if you have a slow connection. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.21/1012 - Release Date: 9/16/2007 6:32 PM From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Sep 16 19:36:29 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 21:36:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 heater clarification References: <003f01c7f87e$a0331ae0$6500a8c0@HAMPC> Message-ID: <003401c7f8cb$2be81cb0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> List, For left hand drive cars, the heater doors open to blister the driver's right leg and the passenger's left. All other part of their anatomies remain at the current outside temperature. Ed Woods From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Sep 16 20:23:54 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 22:23:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] British Invasion or maybe Submersion.... In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407194BDB8806@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <000001c7f8c4$5e660050$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407194BDB8806@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <002b01c7f8d1$cdff1c50$210110ac@bobspc> LMAO.............Stan...we told him to start it up on the hour and 1/2 hour to generate a crowd! His car is downright scary AND drivable. That show has seen hurricanes but Saturday's weather was the worst. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com] Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 9:04 PM To: Bob Danielson; 'TR List'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] British Invasion or maybe Submersion.... That certainly was a soggy mess on Saturday although a sunny, cool but not quite so damp Sunday with a somewhat sparse field and I guess the cancellation of some of the funny Sunday events like the blindfolded driving.. It was great to see some of the 6pack regulars like Bob and Aaron and some of my local NET group. Highlight for me was getting a close up view of Rick Patton's Supercharged TR6. That is one nice piece of engineering and unlike any supercharged TR6 I have ever seen. Starting it up guaranteed a small crowd forming in seconds. Stan -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 8:48 PM To: 'TR List'; 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: AEGDesign at aol.com Subject: [6pack] British Invasion or maybe Submersion.... I'm 3 for 3 on shows this year...... VTR - storms everyday, CTR - rain driving to show, British Invasion - RAIN & MUD. But I did get to hook up with a few list members who were brave enough to come to the show and drive their cars out on to the "field"/swamp. It's a shame because this is a great show in a beautiful location that can attract 700 cars in good weather. I just posted a bunch of "unusual" pictures on my site. Just follow the British Invasion link (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Stowe.htm) on the main page. It's BIG page so be patient if you have a slow connection. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.21/1012 - Release Date: 9/16/2007 6:32 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.21/1012 - Release Date: 9/16/2007 6:32 PM From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sun Sep 16 21:45:41 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 20:45:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] List Members Get Together at Triumphest In Laughlan NV Oct 11 Message-ID: Well it looks like from the schedule of events that Thursday evening would be the best time for the list members attending Triumphest to get together. Anyone not coming in by Thursday evening? I've got the OK for us to use one of the side rooms unless everyone would rather we all jump on a river boat cruse at the same time (might be tough to get us all to show up at the same time). I'll assume just a non boat tour get together unless I get a bunch of emails stating otherwise. 8PM sound OK? I don't want to miss anyone planing on arriving Thursday evening. Please email me back so I know how many may show up. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 17 00:28:27 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 23:28:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] dry needle drift? In-Reply-To: <074701c7f8a0$ced77130$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070917062735.YPKV16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I rebuilt them myself and I think I need to 'refreshen' > them again, especially since the needles' no longer are > centered (Dry needle drift?). How do you know they are no longer centered ? If that is really the problem, then IMO there must have been something wrong before. They don't drift out of centering even when the car is driven regularly. Basically the only time they should need recentering is if you disturb the jet housing for some other reason. > I am curious, "why the Mystery oil?" It's a mystery to me. (Sorry, had to say it.) What have you been doing with MMO ? Filling the dampers with it, perhaps ? The book tells you to overfill the dampers, which I think is so the excess can run down and lubricate where the rod slides in the dome. From there, it will eventually find it's way out through the holes in the bottom of the piston, and might conceivably puddle in the intake if the engine was not running. Shouldn't be a problem, as long as the quantity is small. Randall From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Mon Sep 17 01:12:29 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 02:12:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200709170712.l8H7CjTH221233@ns3.geneseo.net> I'd absolutely never do this. But if you try it, please tell me where you got a drill that diameter that long.... At 09:15 PM 9/13/2007, DLylis at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 9/13/2007 7:59:23 P.M. >Eastern Standard Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: >Itbs a good point, but when you push the >camshaft back in place, the filings should be contained > >You are more of a gambler than I, that's for sure. > >David Lylis >69 TR6 CC26160L >60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > >---------- >See what's new at >AOL.com >and >Make >AOL Your Homepage. uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 17 01:37:43 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 00:37:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Noisy Engine In-Reply-To: <200709170712.l8H7CjTH221233@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <20070917073652.CAHZ16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I'd absolutely never do this. But if you try it, please tell > me where you got a drill that diameter that long.... Any decent tool supply house should have them ... I got mine at McMaster-Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/ Randall From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Sep 17 06:55:15 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 08:55:15 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] List Members Get Together at Triumphest In Laughlan NV Oct 11 Message-ID: Marty! Uncle Jack & I are arriving Wednesday afternoon/evening in Las Vegas and driving to Laughlin. We are staying at the Host Hotel Wednesday and Thursday. Could we pop in and join you guys? Joe A > Well it looks like from the schedule of events that Thursday evening would > be the best time for the list members attending Triumphest to get together. > Anyone not coming in by Thursday evening? I've got the OK for us to use one > of the side rooms unless everyone would rather we all jump on a river boat > cruse at the same time (might be tough to get us all to show up at the same > time). I'll assume just a non boat tour get together unless I get a bunch of > emails stating otherwise. 8PM sound OK? I don't want to miss anyone planing > on arriving Thursday evening. > > Please email me back so I know how many may show up. > > Marty Clark > Gilbert, AZ > 1974 TR6 CF17352U > http://www.triumphowners.com/798 > From jimbpps at cox.net Mon Sep 17 07:41:54 2007 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 06:41:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] List Members Get Together at Triumphest In Laughlan NV Oct 11 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Marty, I will be there! Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Marty Clark Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 8:46 PM To: Triumph Email List; 6pack Subject: [TR] List Members Get Together at Triumphest In Laughlan NV Oct 11 Well it looks like from the schedule of events that Thursday evening would be the best time for the list members attending Triumphest to get together. Anyone not coming in by Thursday evening? I've got the OK for us to use one of the side rooms unless everyone would rather we all jump on a river boat cruse at the same time (might be tough to get us all to show up at the same time). I'll assume just a non boat tour get together unless I get a bunch of emails stating otherwise. 8PM sound OK? I don't want to miss anyone planing on arriving Thursday evening. Please email me back so I know how many may show up. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 _______________________________________________ jimbpps at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 17 08:37:13 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 07:37:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch master cylinder Message-ID: <012001c7f938$3de5e5b0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Does anyone on the list know the bore diameter of the TR3 clutch Master cylinder? I am referring to the clutch master cylinder that is separate from the reservoir. Mike Denman From eandy01 at msn.com Mon Sep 17 10:42:05 2007 From: eandy01 at msn.com (EDWARD ANDERSON) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 16:42:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] Morgans In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Pardon my ignorance but when did Morgan start selling in the US again or was the one shown imported by the owner? The last I'd heard of Morgans being sold here was when they had a conflict with DOT over the wood floorboards. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 17 11:00:40 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 10:00:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Morgans In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <027a01c7f94c$46bab3a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Pardon my ignorance but when did Morgan start selling in the > US again I wasn't aware that they had stopped. Certainly there have been times when their current model was not approved in the US, but AFAIK they continued offering past models at those times. Looks like they finally even got the Aero 8 into US-spec http://www.morganwest.net/ Randall From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Sep 17 11:04:34 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 13:04:34 EDT Subject: [TR] Morgans Message-ID: In a message dated 9/17/2007 11:42:15 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, eandy01 at msn.com writes: Pardon my ignorance but when did Morgan start selling in the US again or was the one shown imported by the owner? The last I'd heard of Morgans being sold here was when they had a conflict with DOT over the wood floorboards. i missed whatever you are responding to, but I think its been 2 or 3 decades since Morgan's had trouble getting in - Isis Imports in California or Capitol Motorcars in Virginia will be glad to take your order today for an Aeromax coupe or Aero 8 convertible Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Mon Sep 17 11:04:27 2007 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 13:04:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Morgans In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20070917130354.046399c0@216.7.163.243> I dont think they ever stopped... though I think there are only half a dozen dealers in the US at the moment. - Aldwyn At 12:42 PM 9/17/2007, EDWARD ANDERSON wrote: >Pardon my ignorance but when did Morgan start selling in the US again or was >the one shown imported by the owner? The last I'd heard of Morgans being sold >here was when they had a conflict with DOT over the wood floorboards. >_______________________________________________ >aldwyn at sylvancircle.org > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Mon Sep 17 11:22:39 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 10:22:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] List Members Get Together at Triumphest In Laughlan NV Oct 11 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Absolutely. Several of us from the local DCTRA club are driving over Wednesday so we'll be around. Planning to arrive late afternoon. I'll send another email when I know which room we are meeting in but stop over any time. Look forward to meeting both of you. Marty On 9/17/07, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote: > > Marty! > > Uncle Jack & I are arriving Wednesday afternoon/evening in Las Vegas and > driving to Laughlin. We are staying at the Host Hotel Wednesday and > Thursday. > > Could we pop in and join you guys? > > Joe A From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Sep 17 12:13:01 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 14:13:01 EDT Subject: [TR] Fw: Important - Tax refund form Message-ID: I'm sure it's legit Joe, I got one just like it last month for the exact same amount! We must have similar incomes! Just send them all your personal information like social security number, bank account numbers, and if possible ATM password...trust them, they'll fix everything. Have you always worn cowboy boots? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From Btmfdchn at aol.com Mon Sep 17 12:49:47 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 14:49:47 EDT Subject: [TR] Morgans Message-ID: In a message dated 9/17/2007 9:42:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time, eandy01 at msn.com writes: Pardon my ignorance but when did Morgan start selling in the US again or was the one shown imported by the owner? The last I'd heard of Morgans being sold here was when they had a conflict with DOT over the wood floorboards. Greetings... In the late 60's early 70's, smog and safety regs tightened up. Morgan Motor Company showed no interest in meeting USA standards even though the US had been their largest market in the 50's and early 60's. Bill Fink of Isis Motors set about finding out what it would take to federalize the cars in the mid 70's. There is a great article about the process and Bills dedication to Morgan on the Isis site. _http://www.morgancars-usa.com/candd1.html_ (http://www.morgancars-usa.com/candd1.html) Conversion to propane power was part of the story. Some time after 2000, the factory started making cars that complied with all standards. The last traditional cars were the Jaguar V6 powered "Roadster"s built in a number limited to the number of air bags they could find that fit their design-about 100. Several new dealers were appointed but the only thing they have to sell now is the Aero 8-a magnificent, expensive, and modern car so with the exception of a few years in the late 60's-early 70's and the late 90's, Morgans have been available here, TJ (61 and 66 TR powered Morgan +4's) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Sep 17 14:43:48 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 14:43:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] List Members Get Together at Triumphest In Laughlan NV Oct 11 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46EEE704.30303@tscusa.org> Marty Clark wrote: > Well it looks like from the schedule of events that Thursday evening would > be the best time for the list members attending Triumphest to get together. > Anyone not coming in by Thursday evening? I've got the OK for us to use one > of the side rooms unless everyone would rather we all jump on a river boat > cruse at the same time (might be tough to get us all to show up at the same > time). I'll assume just a non boat tour get together unless I get a bunch of > emails stating otherwise. 8PM sound OK? I don't want to miss anyone planing > on arriving Thursday evening. > > Please email me back so I know how many may show up. > > Marty Clark > Gilbert, AZ > 1974 TR6 CF17352U > http://www.triumphowners.com/798 > Hi Marty and All: Great idea for a gathering. I just reserved my room from the 10th to the 14th at the host hotel. My co-pilot and I with another couple will be arriving the evening of Wednesday the 10th. How about we extend the invitation to all the Triumph email listers including British Car Forum members? And why make it one evening? Lets do the evening of the 10th too! As to venue, we can pull up a patch of landscaped grass next to the river right at the hotel, pull out a few coolers of beverages, start up a grill and grill up some poor mans steaks!! There are some nice green and treed areas between the pool and the river and if we make it an evening rendezvous, the weather will be perfect. I bet the Hotel and or host club will have a Triumphest message board up so we can post the details there. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 17 14:45:58 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 13:45:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch master cylinder In-Reply-To: <012001c7f938$3de5e5b0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> References: <012001c7f938$3de5e5b0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Message-ID: <02b301c7f96b$c09add20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Does anyone on the list know the bore diameter of the TR3 > clutch Master > cylinder? I am referring to the clutch master cylinder that > is separate from the reservoir. Should be .75". Randall From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 17 15:07:25 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 14:07:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch master cylinder References: <012001c7f938$3de5e5b0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> <02b301c7f96b$c09add20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <002401c7f96e$c0578b30$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Thanks Randal and Leighton! Once again the list's help is indispensable. Mike Denman ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Mike Denman'" ; "'Triumph'" Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 1:45 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 clutch master cylinder > >> Does anyone on the list know the bore diameter of the TR3 >> clutch Master >> cylinder? I am referring to the clutch master cylinder that >> is separate from the reservoir. > > Should be .75". > > Randall From mrv8q at aim.com Mon Sep 17 15:17:03 2007 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 17:17:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Waterpump orientation Message-ID: <8C9C7873A18ECF0-450-2A9C@webmail-mf11.sysops.aol.com> Listerati, upon presenting the waterpump to the housing, there is a small open groove on the waterpump itself, allowing a glimpse of the shaft. Although the Bentley manual doesn't mention it, it there a proper orientation of this groove... (one of three positions allowable). Thanks, Kevin Browne '74 TR6 #22446U ________________________________________________________________________ Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- Unlimited storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. From diggle at clear.net.nz Mon Sep 17 15:17:52 2007 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 09:17:52 +1200 Subject: [TR] Fuel lines for a TR4 Message-ID: <000d01c7f970$358f5df0$9f5a65da@athlon> I have measured the fuel level in my tank and am losing petrol (gasoline). I have had my fuel tank resoldered around the overflow outlet and the drain plug. How do I test the outlet from the petrol tank and along the piping. Also no one seems to have the olives (or whatever they are called) that are on the end of the pipe and screw into the tank and the fuel pump. Do I tie a plastic bag around the fuel pipe where it leaves the tank and also tape it to the tank to test that joint. Jim and his black 1962 TR4 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 17 15:23:24 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 14:23:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Waterpump orientation In-Reply-To: <8C9C7873A18ECF0-450-2A9C@webmail-mf11.sysops.aol.com> References: <8C9C7873A18ECF0-450-2A9C@webmail-mf11.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <02b601c7f970$faded770$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Listerati, upon presenting the waterpump to the housing, there is a > small open groove on the > waterpump itself, allowing a glimpse of the shaft. Although > the Bentley > manual doesn't > mention it, it there a proper orientation of this groove... (one of > three positions allowable). Should go to the bottom, I believe. Most water pumps have some sort of opening, to allow water to escape if the seal weeps a bit. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Mon Sep 17 18:34:16 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 20:34:16 EDT Subject: [TR] Fuel lines for a TR4 Message-ID: If you are losing fuel that is measurable in the tank you should have plenty of wet and lots of smell. It should be real easy to find. Have you pulled out the dipstick to make sure your oil level has not risen due to unwanted fuel? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From wquincy at cox.net Mon Sep 17 18:46:41 2007 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 19:46:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 fender beading Message-ID: Greetings Listers I inherited a bunch of parts when I bought the car Im now restoring including a set of fender beading. However the front fender beads do not have the very long tab that belongs In the engine compartment. Instead these beads have about 10 more short tabs in there place. Does any one know who made them, and for what ? I dont see how to use them. (Ive ordered new ones from TRF.) Also they are several inches to long. Bill Quincy Wichita, Kansas From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Sep 17 18:49:38 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 20:49:38 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 fender beading Message-ID: It sounds like the ones used on the E Type Jaguar. Van you re-use your old long tabs? Mike Moore 59 TR3A 41723L(O) 63 S1 E Type ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Sep 17 19:15:11 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 21:15:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] British Invasion Pics Message-ID: <8C9C7A87E6C7A99-D0C-34D7@WEBMAIL-MA14.sysops.aol.com> Hi List, You have heard from several list members about the British Invasion.? Here is my take.? I have uploaded a sampling of pictures from the weekend at www.triumphowners.com/108 under 2007 British Invasion.? Comments are always welcome.? There are also pictures of list members Al Gary and Bob Danielson so those of you who would like to put a face with the name can do so.? It was also very nice meeting other list members like Stan, Joe, Dan, Tim, etc.? I did my best to recruit a few new list members.? By the way, nice Wellington's Stan.? Stan didnt need to walk around any puddles.? It seemed that the rain brought out the best in people but the worst in some drivers.? I heard plenty of comments about the weather, but not many complaints.? I was fortunate enough to make it off the field without getting stuck but I did scout out the best route. I did take another couple of video's of the Smuggler's notch run and at some point I will find a way to make them available to be seen.? We were lucky this year that on the way up and most of the way back down we didn't have anyone in front of us so we could push the cars a little bit. Wish I was able to attend the TRials.? I hope everyone has a great time and meets many other list members. Cheers, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Sep 17 20:11:27 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 22:11:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] The Supercharger Effect Message-ID: <8C9C7B05ADE8E1D-D0C-3792@WEBMAIL-MA14.sysops.aol.com> Hi List, I have added another photo category to the triumphowners.com/108 website that shows in pictures what happened when Rick started his car and ran the supercharger on Sunday.? I walked up to Rick during the show Sunday when there were people around all the cars but none looking specifically at his car.? I told him I would take a before picture then he should start the car and see what attention he generated.? The pictures at the web site above show the response.? Like moths to a light. Enjoy. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 17 20:18:19 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 22:18:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Last eBay Auction Message-ID: <001b01c7f99a$30424e00$210110ac@bobspc> Over 30 auctions later and the last 3 are now posted: Original radiator, 13 blade red fan and a 12" Hayden fan. Whew..... These are way too many auctions to keep track of! If you're interested, just do a Seller Search on seller name YellowTR6. Thanks for everyone's support. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.21/1012 - Release Date: 9/16/2007 6:32 PM From jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net Mon Sep 17 20:51:25 2007 From: jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net (Jerrold Le Tourneau) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 22:51:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starter jsut spinning Message-ID: <46EF3D2D.8030609@verizon.net> Hello all. Long time ower of a 68 GT-6 MK1 which runs well but looks like hell. Anyhow, I have problem which I haven't been able to solve. The starter motor turns but will not engage and turn over the engine. I removed the unit and cleaned. I put a 12 volt charge to it and it extends and turns as required. Back into the car and the problem persists. I changed the starter and still have the same problem. I'm beginning to think that the problem is in the electrical system and not having anything to do with the starter. I did replace the solenoid a while back. Could it be that is bad again? If so, what would cause the solenoid to go bad again? Jerry From fishplate at charter.net Mon Sep 17 21:21:15 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 23:21:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starter jsut spinning In-Reply-To: <46EF3D2D.8030609@verizon.net> References: <46EF3D2D.8030609@verizon.net> Message-ID: <20070918032103.LCHU14098.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 10:51 PM 9/17/2007, Jerrold Le Tourneau wrote: >The starter motor turns but will not engage and turn over the engine. I >removed the unit and cleaned. I put a 12 volt charge to it and it >extends and turns as required. Back into the car and the problem >persists. I changed the starter and still have the same problem. Assuming the Bendix is OK on the starters, are you missing teeth on the flywheel? If the starter turns, it shouldn't be the solenoid... Try putting the car in gear and pushing it so you find a new spot on the flywheel to engage. Also, look through the hole when the starter is removed, and inspect the ring gear. Jeff Scarbrough Spitfires and a TR6 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1013 - Release Date: 9/17/2007 1:29 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 17 22:05:24 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 21:05:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Starter jsut spinning In-Reply-To: <46EF3D2D.8030609@verizon.net> Message-ID: <20070918040431.UQYD23505.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > I'm beginning to think that the > problem is in the electrical system and not having anything > to do with the starter. Could well be. The Bendix mechanism requires a good, sharp spin to extend; so if the wiring to the starter motor isn't quite up to snuff, the motor may not 'twist' enough to extend the drive. > I did replace the solenoid a while > back. Could it be that is bad again? Could be. > If so, what would > cause the solenoid to go bad again? Although I've not specifically heard of new solenoids being junk, there are enough other bad parts being supplied that I wouldn't be surprised if there are bad solenoids too. Another possibility is a poor connection at the solenoid, which will generate lots of heat when trying to crank. The excess heat may cause the contacts inside to corrode, although usually I would expect to see external signs of high heat as well (discoloration, melted insulation, etc.). Or, there might be some fault with the motor itself causing it to draw too much current (even though it will extend the Bendix on the bench). They are 4-pole motors, so one pole being open (or shorted to ground) will still let them run. I had exactly that problem on my TR3A, and the excess current literally sent the battery cable up in smoke. I thought the car was on fire ! Randall From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Mon Sep 17 22:44:02 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 05:44:02 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] TR4A missing... at last!!!! Message-ID: <474207.84062.qm@web27414.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Not sure what happened about misfiring on No3, maybe that was sorted when I replaced plug leads. Finally narrowed the problem down to carbs. During the second removal of the carbs I noticed that the inside of the head ports was wet on 1 and 2 and dry on 3 and 4..... it turned out that the choke linkage between the 2 carbs had slipped and the front carb was running with choke open so (I guess) flooding 1 and 2 (although the plugs looked healthy). Anyway she is now purring like a kitten (after all the tuning and setting of gaps, timing etc) and we are getting ready for the trip to Nairobi Concours next week. When I get the time, I intend to put together a "misfiring check list" in the meanwhile, a big thank you to all listers who provided assistance in finding the gremlin. Cheers, Chris (discarded-the-matches) Buckley --------------------------------- For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month. From dtennant at shaw.ca Tue Sep 18 03:26:44 2007 From: dtennant at shaw.ca (Donald Tennant) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 02:26:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Starter jsut spinning In-Reply-To: <46EF3D2D.8030609@verizon.net> References: <46EF3D2D.8030609@verizon.net> Message-ID: <46EF99D4.2020000@shaw.ca> Jerrold Le Tourneau wrote: > Hello all. Long time ower of a 68 GT-6 MK1 which runs well but looks > like hell. Anyhow, I have problem which I haven't been able to solve. > The starter motor turns but will not engage and turn over the engine. I > removed the unit and cleaned. I put a 12 volt charge to it and it > extends and turns as required. Back into the car and the problem > persists. I changed the starter and still have the same problem. I'm > beginning to think that the problem is in the electrical system and not > having anything to do with the starter. I did replace the solenoid a > while back. Could it be that is bad again? If so, what would cause the > solenoid to go bad again? > > Jerry > _______________________________________________ > dtennant at shaw.ca > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > Did you check the bendix drive itself to ensure that it wasn't broken. It may throw out fine, engage the drive gear but fail to transmit the spin of the starter motor to the ring gear.. This does happen and does address the fact pattern you described elegantly without referring to arcane electrical faults. It is a hell of a lot easier to check as well. Donald Tennant. From DLylis at aol.com Tue Sep 18 05:04:42 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 07:04:42 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A head gasket Message-ID: smooth side up or down? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 18 08:29:56 2007 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 07:29:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Slightly OT: New clothing line Message-ID: <457598.47346.qm@web83102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Check out this link: http://www.autofieldguide.com/dp/auto/newsmonger.cfm?id=1539 Doug -- dmitchel at sbcglobal.net From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 18 09:12:43 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 15:12:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] The Supercharger Effect In-Reply-To: <8C9C7B05ADE8E1D-D0C-3792@WEBMAIL-MA14.sysops.aol.com> References: <8C9C7B05ADE8E1D-D0C-3792@WEBMAIL-MA14.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Looking at the photo of the supercharged TR6 I don't recognize the ignition type. Can anyone explain what the spark plug wires are routed from? It is not a typical distributor. Best regards, Tom > To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 22:11:27 -0400 > From: acekraut11 at aol.com > Subject: [TR] The Supercharger Effect > > Hi List, > > I have added another photo category to the triumphowners.com/108 website that shows in pictures what happened when Rick started his car and ran the supercharger on Sunday.? I walked up to Rick during the show Sunday when there were people around all the cars but none looking specifically at his car.? I told him I would take a before picture then he should start the car and see what attention he generated.? The pictures at the web site above show the response.? Like moths to a light. > > Enjoy. > > Aaron > > > > > > Aaron Cropley > 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) > http://www.triumphowners.com/108 > Topsham, Maine > > ________________________________________________________________________ > Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _________________________________________________________________ Capture your memories in an online journal! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 18 09:50:26 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 11:50:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] The Supercharger Effect In-Reply-To: <8C9C7B05ADE8E1D-D0C-3792@WEBMAIL-MA14.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: > Hi List, > >I have added another photo category to the triumphowners.com/108 website >that shows in pictures what happened when Rick started his car and ran the >supercharger on Sunday.? I walked up to Rick during the show Sunday when >there were people around all the cars but none looking specifically at his >car.? I told him I would take a before picture then he should start the car >and see what attention he generated.? The pictures at the web site above >show the response.? Like moths to a light. > >Enjoy. > >Aaron Aaron, how is Rick able to rev the engine without the supercharger? Is there a clutch on the pulley or something a la Road Warrior's Interceptor? John From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 18 10:02:27 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 09:02:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A head gasket In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070918160135.LXHQ4108.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > smooth side up or down? I don't believe it is critical; but the book says smooth side down so I do it that way. Randall From pethier at comcast.net Tue Sep 18 12:03:35 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 18:03:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever Message-ID: <091820071803.12128.46F012F7000235C800002F6022058844849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: > Just to throw my $0.02 into this discussion, my worst car was a 1970 > Rover 3500S. Aluminum V8, bolt-on body panels (you could, in theory > change the color of the car with a wrench), 4-wheel disc brakes (inboard > in the rear), very comfy interior, and all sorts of electrical bells and > whistles. It suffered an unending string of quality problems, from a > pinion bolt in the diff that came loose at speed because the doofus at > the factory didn't bother to bend over the retaining clip, to an > assortment of Lucas and Smith gizmos that simply crumbled to bits. > > But when it was running, it was a real treat. I had a 1966 Rover 2000TC. Same car with a SOHC 4 engine and 4-speed manual gearbox. Don't forget the modified DeDion rear suspension and the front suspension that called for the dampers to work backwards. Tons of trouble, including a gearchange linkage that would go AWOL and requre the disassembly of the whole car to reach. When it was running, it was surprsingly fast. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Tue Sep 18 12:26:04 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 18:26:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever Message-ID: <091820071826.18914.46F0183C0005D39C000049E222007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: DLylis at aol.com > Oddly, the worst car I ever owned, I loved. 1968 SAAB 96. It started > poorly in the cold weather and eventually left me stranded in New England on a > cold December evening with a seized engine. I still loved it. It was rare for > those times and "intellectuals" drove them. OK so I'm not that bright. > I talked a friend of mine into buying one as I liked it so much. As you may > recall the car was a four on the column. I had several of these Ford-V4-powered cars. The one that was the original of the bunch was a 1968. Loved them. Ran away from Jeeps in the snow. Lowered and decambered the 1968 known as "Inga" and autocrossed it for years. Finally rolled it at an icekhana in Wisconsin. The next day we put studded tires on it and I let Flip Shockley run the whole three-hour race. He was so much more talented than I that it would have been wrong for me to hold him back by driving my shift. Stock engine, full street trim, he finished 4th overall and third in his class against actual race cars. He awarded me the trophy. The two years I raced, it was in two-stoke SAABs. http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/102447656/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/102701242/ My last one was the newest of the lot. My brother had bought it new and had it delivered in Amsterdam when he was doing post-grad work in Paris. It finally died when the ring & pinion failed when my wife was backing out of the driveway. I sold it to legendary SAAB mechanic Dan Jones. Thus ended my SAAB career until I bought a Sonett in 1987. From pethier at comcast.net Tue Sep 18 12:28:16 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 18:28:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] Slightly OT: New clothing line Message-ID: <091820071828.21379.46F018C0000367210000538322007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Doug Mitchell > Check out this link: > > http://www.autofieldguide.com/dp/auto/newsmonger.cfm?id=1539 Wait til we get our Haynes on you. From mmarr at notwires.com Tue Sep 18 12:33:16 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 13:33:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever References: <091820071826.18914.46F0183C0005D39C000049E222007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002c01c7fa22$61f2e990$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> >> Oddly, the worst car I ever owned, I loved. 1968 SAAB 96. It started Following all the sob stories about Worst Cars, we finish, appropriately enough, with a couple of SAAB stories... Mike From spitlist at cox.net Tue Sep 18 13:13:03 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 12:13:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever References: <091820071826.18914.46F0183C0005D39C000049E222007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> <002c01c7fa22$61f2e990$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <004f01c7fa27$f0319bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Having worked for a Saab dealership in the 60's when the Ford V4 engines were being used, I can attest to how neat they were. But the real interesting innovation was the free-wheeling device that they used. It was a simple roller/ramp affair that allows the roller bearings to roll freely in one direction but have to climb a ramp in the other direction. That caused them to lock down when the ramp became too tight for free travel. One side was attached to the engine and the other side was attached to the transmission and when the thing was engaged, as long as the engine rpm was lower than the transmission rpm, the thing would free-wheel. It was a great fuel saving device. When the engine rpm rose above that of the gearbox, the engine power was then transferred to the drive train and normal operation was resumed. In free-wheeling mode, you could shift the entire gearbox through the entire range of gears without ever engaging the clutch. Disengaging the device would return the car to a normal arrangement. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Marr" To: ; ; Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 11:33 AM Subject: Re: [TR] My worst car ever > >> Oddly, the worst car I ever owned, I loved. 1968 SAAB 96. It started > > Following all the sob stories about Worst Cars, we finish, appropriately > enough, with a couple of SAAB stories... > > Mike > _______________________________________________ > spitlist at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jmcoh at comcast.net Tue Sep 18 13:17:34 2007 From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 15:17:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever In-Reply-To: <004f01c7fa27$f0319bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <091820071826.18914.46F0183C0005D39C000049E222007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> <002c01c7fa22$61f2e990$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> <004f01c7fa27$f0319bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <006101c7fa28$91fcd410$b5f67c30$@net> The free wheel also made the old Saabs extraordinarily great in snow. My first car was a 1971 95 wagon and it was also probably my worst but I have many fond memories of going into snow covered turns under full power, steering with the emergency brake John Cohen 76 TR6 Rutland VT http://www.triumphowners.com/701 Having worked for a Saab dealership in the 60's when the Ford V4 engines were being used, I can attest to how neat they were. But the real interesting innovation was the free-wheeling device that they used. It was a simple roller/ramp affair that allows the roller bearings to roll freely in one direction but have to climb a ramp in the other direction. That caused them to lock down when the ramp became too tight for free travel. From motorcarriage at charter.net Tue Sep 18 13:42:04 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 15:42:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever References: <091820071826.18914.46F0183C0005D39C000049E222007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><002c01c7fa22$61f2e990$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop><004f01c7fa27$f0319bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <006101c7fa28$91fcd410$b5f67c30$@net> Message-ID: <00ef01c7fa2b$fd99a0b0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Our Family's Foreign Car Dealership had the Saab franchise 1963-1973. I remember the free wheelin device well. You had to roll the throttle on gently though or you'd get a jerky feedback from the driveline. They had the free wheelin feature before the V4, as I think it was developed so people wouldn't engine brake (downshift) with the 2-cycle engine. The oil was added in the tank, so no fuel flow, no lubrication. Except for the Monte Carlo which had the oil injection, and 3 downdraught Solex's. When we sold the 2-stroke(67 was last year) they advertised a lifetime warranty on the engine, pointing out it only had 7 moving parts. Wayne Lee 58 TR3 64 TR4 75 TR6 Douglas,MA > The free wheel also made the old Saabs extraordinarily great in snow. My > first car was a 1971 95 wagon and it was also probably my worst but I have > many fond memories of going into snow covered turns under full power, > steering with the emergency brake > > John Cohen > 76 TR6 > Rutland VT > http://www.triumphowners.com/701 From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Sep 18 14:14:34 2007 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 15:14:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Turning Engine on Starter Message-ID: <002501c7fa30$87b615e0$6501a8c0@idea.com> Listers, I want to turn the engine off of the starter as the manual turning via the dogbolt is a PITA. No electrics are on the car at all. Here is what I am thinking of doing: 1. Take my 14v AC to DC convertor box and hook the positive lead to the starter's terminal, immitating the battery. 2. Plug the box in, thus providing juice to the starter's terminal. Question is this, will the starter being mounted to the block be sufficient for grounding, in order to create the circuit needed to actuate the starter? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins Kennedale, Texas 1965 Triumph TR4A (CTC 63569LO) http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From motorcarriage at charter.net Tue Sep 18 14:20:49 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 16:20:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Turning Engine on Starter References: <002501c7fa30$87b615e0$6501a8c0@idea.com> Message-ID: <013401c7fa31$6750ab70$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> I doubt you could deliver enough Amps to the Starter to stir much activity. A large Batterry Charger maybe. YMMV... Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas,MA > Listers, > > I want to turn the engine off of the starter as the manual turning via the > dogbolt is a PITA. > No electrics are on the car at all. Here is what I am thinking of doing: > > 1. Take my 14v AC to DC convertor box and hook the positive lead to the > starter's terminal, immitating the battery. > 2. Plug the box in, thus providing juice to the starter's terminal. > > Question is this, will the starter being mounted to the block be > sufficient > for grounding, > in order to create the circuit needed to actuate the starter? From mmarr at notwires.com Tue Sep 18 14:29:02 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 15:29:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever References: <091820071826.18914.46F0183C0005D39C000049E222007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> <002c01c7fa22$61f2e990$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> <004f01c7fa27$f0319bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <003501c7fa32$8df486b0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > Having worked for a Saab dealership in the 60's when the Ford V4 engines > were being used, I can attest to how neat they were. But the real > interesting innovation was the free-wheeling device that they used. It > was > a simple roller/ramp affair that allows the roller bearings to roll freely > in one direction but have to climb a ramp in the other direction. That > caused them to lock down when the ramp became too tight for free travel. These devices are variously known as sprag clutches, overrun clutches, or conveyor backstops. They are very versatile - for example, they are often used on the top drum of an inclined conveyor to stop it running backwards when the motor is off, and my company uses them on several of our double ended electric generators that are driven by a gas turbine at one end and a steam turbine at the other end. The gas turbine always drives but the steam turbine only drives when there is a call for steam from its exhaust port - the rest of the time it idles. The sprag clutch enables the gas turbine to devote all its work to turning the generator and not the idling steam turbine. Mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 18 15:39:49 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 14:39:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Turning Engine on Starter In-Reply-To: <002501c7fa30$87b615e0$6501a8c0@idea.com> References: <002501c7fa30$87b615e0$6501a8c0@idea.com> Message-ID: <007801c7fa3c$7052e110$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I want to turn the engine off of the starter as the manual > turning via the > dogbolt is a PITA. > No electrics are on the car at all. Here is what I am > thinking of doing: > > 1. Take my 14v AC to DC convertor box and hook the positive > lead to the > starter's terminal, immitating the battery. > 2. Plug the box in, thus providing juice to the starter's terminal. > > Question is this, will the starter being mounted to the block > be sufficient > for grounding, > in order to create the circuit needed to actuate the starter? Starter mounted to the block is no problem at all ... but I agree with Wayne : unless your converter box is rated at hundreds of amps, it isn't going to do the job. My 50 amp battery charger just groans. Initial current draw of the starter is around 500 amps at 8 volts or so. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 18 15:46:31 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 14:46:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever In-Reply-To: <004f01c7fa27$f0319bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <091820071826.18914.46F0183C0005D39C000049E222007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><002c01c7fa22$61f2e990$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> <004f01c7fa27$f0319bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <007901c7fa3d$6016e250$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > But the real interesting innovation was the free-wheeling device that they > used. It was > a simple roller/ramp affair that allows the roller bearings > to roll freely > in one direction but have to climb a ramp in the other > direction. Of course Standard-Triumph never used anything like that, especially not in 1948 ... (Hint, there is a sprag clutch in every Laycock overdrive.) And American cars offered free wheeling long before 1960 as well. It was eventually discontinued because it put more load on the (inadequate) brakes of the time. Randall From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 18 16:52:59 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 18:52:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever In-Reply-To: <004f01c7fa27$f0319bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: >Having worked for a Saab dealership in the 60's when the Ford V4 engines >were being used, I can attest to how neat they were. But the real >interesting innovation was the free-wheeling device that they used. It was >a simple roller/ramp affair that allows the roller bearings to roll freely >in one direction but have to climb a ramp in the other direction. That >caused them to lock down when the ramp became too tight for free travel. > >One side was attached to the engine and the other side was attached to the >transmission and when the thing was engaged, as long as the engine rpm was >lower than the transmission rpm, the thing would free-wheel. It was a >great >fuel saving device. When the engine rpm rose above that of the gearbox, >the >engine power was then transferred to the drive train and normal operation >was resumed. In free-wheeling mode, you could shift the entire gearbox >through the entire range of gears without ever engaging the clutch. > >Disengaging the device would return the car to a normal arrangement. > >Joe C. Sounds like the sprag clutch on a helicopter that lets the engine drive the rotor but allows the rotor to autorotate when the engine quits. Er... if. John From patton at suscom-maine.net Tue Sep 18 19:11:01 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:11:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] The Supercharger Effect In-Reply-To: Message-ID: John, You are absolutely correct about the supercharger having a clutch. On the dashboard where the choke button once lived is a green illuminated rocker switch. The car runs about like an original TR6 with the switch off but doubles in horsepower once you hit the switch. Wicked fun! Having a clutched supercharger is purely by chance. The original supercharger I'd planned to use was quite long and would never look as if it belonged. Good old ebay came thru when I found two of these brand new short blowers at bargain prices that just happened to have clutches. The clutch is similar to an A/C compressor unit. Never dreamed that the clutch would ever be disengaged but very pleased after hearing just how loud it is. It really howls and would not be something you would want to listen to for very long. On the other hand, those short bursts of incredible power are a real treat. You can see more pictures of the install at http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/ Rick Patton 1975 TR6sci http://sidedrafttbi.com/ snip > Aaron, how is Rick able to rev the engine without the > supercharger? Is there > a clutch on the pulley or something a la Road Warrior's Interceptor? > > John > _______________________________________________ From patton at suscom-maine.net Tue Sep 18 19:14:18 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:14:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] The Supercharger Effect In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hello Tom, The ignition system on my car is distributorless. There are three coils, each firing two plugs at the same time. Instead of a distributor, a computer monitors a sprocket wheel (crank sensor) mounted in front of the harmonic balancer firing the coils according to a matrix in the computers memory. It's taken me a while and a ton of trial and error to get it right. What remains of the distributor is the tach drive and a single spinning tooth that is used as a cam sensor for the fuel injection timing. You can see the before and after pictures of the distributor at: http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/camsensor.htm Rick Patton http://sidedrafttbi.com/ snip > > Looking at the photo of the supercharged TR6 I don't recognize > the ignition > type. Can anyone explain what the spark plug wires are routed > from? It is > not a typical distributor. > > Best regards, > Tom From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Sep 18 20:18:19 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 22:18:19 EDT Subject: [TR] My worst car ever Message-ID: In a message dated 9/18/07 2:34:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: << Following all the sob stories about Worst Cars, we finish, appropriately e nough, with a couple of SAAB stories... >> Those that drive SAABs are aware of the "SAAB fix of the day, if you don't do anything else all day, you must fix one thing" Harold 1980 SAAB 900, owned since 86. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From pethier at comcast.net Tue Sep 18 23:10:58 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 05:10:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever Message-ID: <091920070510.10981.46F0AF62000B5FEB00002AE522070216339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Randall" > And American cars offered free wheeling long before 1960 as well. It was > eventually discontinued because it put more load on the (inadequate) brakes > of the time. Aparently, US cars bundled overdrive and freewheeling together a lot. My dad never could separate them in his brain and thought of my SAABS as having "overdrive and freewheeling". The point of the freewheel in SAAB cars had nothing to do with the Ford V4. It was a leftover from 2-stroke cars. Trailing the throttle was not good for those engines because the lube came in with the fuel. It was good for winning those economy-run trophies in a V4 car though. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From trglory at comcast.net Wed Sep 19 06:52:49 2007 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 08:52:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] British Invasion or maybe Submersion.... In-Reply-To: <000001c7f8c4$5e660050$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c7f8c4$5e660050$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <002701c7fabb$fc9fade0$f5df09a0$@net> The 5 day weather forecast for Hershey is sun and fun. Come to the 6-PACK TRials. Joe -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 8:48 PM To: 'TR List'; 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: AEGDesign at aol.com Subject: [6pack] British Invasion or maybe Submersion.... I'm 3 for 3 on shows this year...... VTR - storms everyday, CTR - rain driving to show, British Invasion - RAIN & MUD. But I did get to hook up with a few list members who were brave enough to come to the show and drive their cars out on to the "field"/swamp. It's a shame because this is a great show in a beautiful location that can attract 700 cars in good weather. I just posted a bunch of "unusual" pictures on my site. Just follow the British Invasion link (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Stowe.htm) on the main page. It's BIG page so be patient if you have a slow connection. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007 11:53 AM From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Sep 19 08:36:25 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 10:36:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Shop-talk] Of mice and...Jeeps! References: <46F132FF.2060409@hornesystemstx.com> Message-ID: <000801c7faca$75763f50$f4137247@fred8kwiskhcfu> > My mind is like a steel trap....rusted! > > > Peace, Pat ========================================================================================================= Maybe the filter is clogged and needs a change :) :) I beat Dave Massey to this one "FT" From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Sep 19 10:21:09 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 10:21:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Shop-talk] Of mice and...Jeeps! In-Reply-To: <000801c7faca$75763f50$f4137247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <46F132FF.2060409@hornesystemstx.com> <000801c7faca$75763f50$f4137247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <46F14C75.9070408@tscusa.org> FRED E THOMAS wrote: >> My mind is like a steel trap....rusted! >> >> >> Peace, >> > Pat > ========================================================================================================= > Maybe the filter is clogged and needs a change :) :) I beat Dave Massey > to this one "FT" > > Mine have been full of spam for too many years :> -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Sep 19 11:30:42 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 13:30:42 EDT Subject: [TR] [Shop-talk] Of mice and...Jeeps! Message-ID: In a message dated 9/19/2007 9:36:53 AM Central Daylight Time, frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes: > >My mind is like a steel trap....rusted! > > > > > >Peace, > Pat > ============================================================================= > ============================ > Maybe the filter is clogged and needs a change :) :) I beat Dave Massey > to this one "FT" > Some of us have to work. ;-) Dave From kentshrack at yahoo.com Wed Sep 19 14:03:50 2007 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 13:03:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Anyone in NEBRASKA Message-ID: <367921.31780.qm@web57806.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Is anyone near Brady NE, about 3 hours west of Lincoln on I 80? Needing a favor. THANKS --------------------------------- Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online. From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Sep 19 14:18:21 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 16:18:21 EDT Subject: [TR] need TR4A valve spring collars Message-ID: Hi Listers, Anyone have a set of TR4-A VALVE SPRING COLLARS (8) for sale? My late-production TR4 came with TR4-A cylinder head, but with earlier style 'triple' spring set-up. I would like to update to the 'double' spring set, but need 4A collars to do it. Anyone got a spare set of 4A valve spring collars to sell? Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From wbmcleod at cox.net Wed Sep 19 14:32:47 2007 From: wbmcleod at cox.net (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 13:32:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] TR6 hardtop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46F1876F.1000008@cox.net> Those sure look like TR250 wheel covers in the lower left photo. TR6UO at aol.com wrote: > Found a French Blue TR6 hardtop, among other things, available in Turlock, > CA (I'm already covered). The guy wants to sell the whole list of parts as a > package for $6500, but is flexible and will consider parting out stuff later. > I'll be happy to check out the top, et al. if anyone strikes a deal with him. > > Steve > > > _http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/car/424022742.html_ > (http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/car/424022742.html) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 19 14:37:11 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 13:37:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] need TR4A valve spring collars In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009301c7fafc$daea4fc0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Anyone have a set of TR4-A VALVE SPRING COLLARS (8) for sale? > My late-production TR4 came with TR4-A cylinder head, > but with earlier style 'triple' spring set-up. > I would like to update to the 'double' spring set, but need > 4A collars to do it. Carl, are you talking about the retainers on top of the spring, or the collars that go between the spring and the head ? I could be mistaken, but as I recall, both of the "3 spring" collars can be used with the later double-spring sets. The extra step is simply unused. It does make a snug fit into the inner spring, but works. For a long time, only double-spring sets were available, so I did the conversion back in 76 or so. Randall From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Sep 19 14:58:22 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 16:58:22 EDT Subject: [TR] need TR4A valve spring collars Message-ID: Thanks Randall, I have photo showing both a 'double' and 'triple' Valve Spring Upper Collar (sit on top of springs) and they look quite different (see attached pic). I guess old ones could work in a pinch but still - can anyone sell me a good used set of 4A valve spring upper collars? :-) Cheers, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Carl, are you talking about the retainers on top of the spring, or the collars that go between the spring and the head ? I could be mistaken, but as I recall, both of the "3 spring" collars can be used with the later double-spring sets. The extra step is simply unused. It does make a snug fit into the inner spring, but works. For a long time, only double-spring sets were available, so I did the conversion back in 76 or so. Randall > Anyone have a set of TR4-A VALVE SPRING COLLARS (8) for sale? > I would like to update to the 'double' spring set, but need > 4A collars to do it. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Sep 19 15:05:07 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 15:05:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Anyone in NEBRASKA In-Reply-To: <367921.31780.qm@web57806.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <367921.31780.qm@web57806.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <46F18F03.7050703@tscusa.org> I have a member in Omaha ...not exactly close ... Kent Shrack wrote: > Is anyone near Brady NE, about 3 hours west of Lincoln on I 80? > Needing a favor. > > THANKS > > > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tfansher at comcast.net Thu Sep 20 10:31:06 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 12:31:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: <001e01c7fba3$a4e858c0$5918e247@DCS78M81> test From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 20 11:09:22 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 10:09:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <001e01c7fba3$a4e858c0$5918e247@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <20070920170828.TKTG16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > test B+ for execution, but D- for content. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Sep 20 11:21:11 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 11:21:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <20070920170828.TKTG16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070920170828.TKTG16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <46F2AC07.4040500@tscusa.org> Randall wrote: >> test >> > > B+ for execution, but D- for content. > Don't go dissin our newest SE Regional Director for the Triumph Stag Club USA!! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield and the occasional smell of manure! From peter at nosimport.com Thu Sep 20 11:37:37 2007 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 12:37:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 tire recommendations? Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070920123516.0361ae68@mailbag.com> Customer is wanting advise on what tires he should have on his wire wheeled TR3. The checked bias plys should be replaced. He's not racing, but he wants to drive safely. Thanks! Peter C. From darrellw at ipns.com Thu Sep 20 11:47:56 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 10:47:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] For sale - 123 Ignition GB-4-R-V Message-ID: <92FAD26D-3884-4940-A631-F1B986D6A06B@ipns.com> I purchased a 123 Ignition GB-4-R-V a little over a year ago, but have decided to go a different direction and no longer need it. It has never been installed. For more details on the unit check out http://www.123ignition.nl/id/ 22.html. I'm asking $250, Priority Mail postage (US only) included. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From pethier at comcast.net Thu Sep 20 11:49:36 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 17:49:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 tire recommendations? Message-ID: <092020071749.22800.46F2B2B00001AD390000591022007637049D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Peter C > Customer is wanting advise on what tires he should have on his wire > wheeled TR3. > > The checked bias plys should be replaced. He's not racing, but he > wants to drive safely. Kumho 165-15 tires from tirerack.com have worked fine for me. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 20 12:14:10 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 11:14:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <46F2AC07.4040500@tscusa.org> References: <20070920170828.TKTG16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> <46F2AC07.4040500@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <010b01c7fbb2$0ad9e0f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Don't go dissin our newest SE Regional Director for the Triumph Stag > Club USA!! Congratulations, Tom ! Put the "daily driver wanna be" in the paint shop a few days ago, hopefully it will be done in time for TRfest. Supposedly it's going to take them 7-10 days just to get "Lotus Racing Green Metallic" into the computer. Apparently, Lotus has their cars painted in Belgium, and the DuPont paint system they use there is not available in the US. So, they are going to spray a test panel and computer-match it ... Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 20 12:23:14 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 11:23:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 tire recommendations? In-Reply-To: <092020071749.22800.46F2B2B00001AD390000591022007637049D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <092020071749.22800.46F2B2B00001AD390000591022007637049D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <011001c7fbb3$4f0d7bf0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Kumho 165-15 tires from tirerack.com have worked fine for me. Unfortunately, they appear to be on indefinite backorder. Possibly something to do with the Chinese tire recall, but I don't know that. Randall From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Sep 20 13:15:17 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 13:15:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] test paint swatches In-Reply-To: <010b01c7fbb2$0ad9e0f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <20070920170828.TKTG16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> <46F2AC07.4040500@tscusa.org> <010b01c7fbb2$0ad9e0f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <46F2C6C5.2090806@tscusa.org> Randall wrote: > Put the "daily driver wanna be" in the paint shop a few days ago, hopefully > it will be done in time for TRfest. Supposedly it's going to take them 7-10 > days just to get "Lotus Racing Green Metallic" into the computer. > Apparently, Lotus has their cars painted in Belgium, and the DuPont paint > system they use there is not available in the US. So, they are going to > spray a test panel and computer-match it ... > > Randall > > OOOoooooooh, New paint job .... 7-10 days!! what PC are they using, an Apple I? That will be two freshly painted Stags at Triumphest, Chuck Kittleson just got his out of the shop, paint is metallic poop ... ahhh errr, Sienna - right metalic Sienna! Might be metalic Russett. Saddle interior with a dark brown mohair top, gonna look great! Just don't park too close to my orange peel cracked egg shell driver. One of these days it will get new paint too. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield, and the occasional smell of fresh manure! From supertr6 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 20 15:15:32 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 17:15:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] test paint swatches In-Reply-To: <46F2C6C5.2090806@tscusa.org> References: <20070920170828.TKTG16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> <46F2AC07.4040500@tscusa.org> <010b01c7fbb2$0ad9e0f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <46F2C6C5.2090806@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <46F2E2F4.1080505@earthlink.net> Glenn A. Merrell wrote: > Just don't park too close to my orange peel cracked egg shell driver. > One of these days it will get new paint too. > > So what you're saying is, it looks like it did when it left the factory? Joe (Former brown TR6, now blue) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 20 15:40:21 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 14:40:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] test paint swatches In-Reply-To: <46F2C6C5.2090806@tscusa.org> References: <20070920170828.TKTG16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> <46F2AC07.4040500@tscusa.org> <010b01c7fbb2$0ad9e0f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <46F2C6C5.2090806@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <015101c7fbce$d8bc91e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > OOOoooooooh, New paint job .... 7-10 days!! what PC are > they using, an Apple I? Not sure just where all the delays are, but if I've got this right, they are having the paint sample shipped to CA from DuPont somewhere (Belgium ?), then the local shop will spray out a test panel, bake it, and then ship it to 'headquarters' in Kentucky where the test panel will be color-matched and entered into the national database. Hopefully, some of that time will overlap with the bodywork ... but when I looked at the car yesterday it looked pretty close to done. > Just don't park too close to my orange peel cracked egg shell > driver. > One of these days it will get new paint too. Not to worry. I've been assured that this will be an "OEM quality" paint job, replete with orange peel and specks ! Since it's my intention to use this car as a driver, I did not go to a "show quality" paint shop. Still, the color should come out pretty stunning ... I really liked it on the Lotus. Actually, I've just gotten word that a family member passed away yesterday, so there's a good chance we won't be making TRfest this year. Perhaps just as well, since there were several mechanical things I wanted to attend to first but won't have time with the extra delay getting it painted. Randall From ray at raysmg.com Thu Sep 20 15:49:48 2007 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 14:49:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 tire recommendations? Message-ID: <20070920144948.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.06dc09d71e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> I'm running Vredestein; from Coker...two day delivery. Made in Norway, looks good, good tread pattern, and a good price...$85/tire ($15/tire for shipping). It's a 40,000 mile tire. I've been very happy with them on my TR3. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From ray at raysmg.com Thu Sep 20 15:51:37 2007 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 14:51:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 tire recommendations? Message-ID: <20070920145137.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.a6fa44c99b.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Oh yes, one more thing...he'll need liners for the tubes. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Sep 20 17:30:56 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 17:30:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] test paint swatches In-Reply-To: <46F2E2F4.1080505@earthlink.net> References: <20070920170828.TKTG16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> <46F2AC07.4040500@tscusa.org> <010b01c7fbb2$0ad9e0f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <46F2C6C5.2090806@tscusa.org> <46F2E2F4.1080505@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <46F302B0.4000000@tscusa.org> Joe Burlein wrote: > Glenn A. Merrell wrote: > >> Just don't park too close to my orange peel cracked egg shell driver. >> One of these days it will get new paint too. >> >> >> > > So what you're saying is, it looks like it did when it left the factory? > > Joe > > (Former brown TR6, now blue) > From 25 feet it probably looks better! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield and an occasional wiff of fresh manure! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Sep 20 18:31:01 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 20:31:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Parts on Craig's List Message-ID: <001801c7fbe6$b103bad0$210110ac@bobspc> Someone just posted this in the 6-Pack Forum that some of our San Francisco area List members might want to go and check out. Sure looks like a lot of stuff. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/car/424022742.html Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.25/1018 - Release Date: 9/19/2007 3:59 PM From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Sep 20 18:57:21 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 20:57:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] To vent or not to vent? Message-ID: <0ae001c7fbea$5f8f62e0$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, In the beginning, when I got my TR3 I also got an engine from a TR4 (which I thought being newer meant being better, but, they were pretty much the same engine). Some of the unused parts were tossed and some lost. For some reason, I wound up using the 4's valve cover , which is vented. I don't remember if the 3's valve cover was vented. I might be able to still find it! I bet it wasn't vented and that venting it was one of the first anti-smog things done to these car's. My question is, since the vc is vented (for now), shouldn't I vent it? (Since my air filter does have a place for a air vent hose and it would be simple to do.) Are their other anti-smog measures I should take with my '60 model? I am fairly concerned about the environment and I am unconcerned with originality. However, I do not want to sacrifice economy or performance unless it makes a great deal of difference. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A w/ a mostly TR4 motor From jimbpps at cox.net Thu Sep 20 20:39:23 2007 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 19:39:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 fender beading In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <542AC93F453A46159C2311C07B806C1F@JimofficePC> Do you mean the long 18 inch(?) piece of bead support that is fastened to the fender with screws? That piece was supplied and attached to the new front fender beads that I bought from Moss or TRF for my TR3 restoration several years ago! Don't know what Jaguar uses, too rich for me!! Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MMoore8425 at aol.com Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 5:50 PM To: wquincy at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 fender beading It sounds like the ones used on the E Type Jaguar. Van you re-use your old long tabs? Mike Moore 59 TR3A 41723L(O) 63 S1 E Type From KingR44916 at aol.com Fri Sep 21 09:25:55 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 11:25:55 EDT Subject: [TR] chrome plating Message-ID: has anyone in the nj area used ron monte chrome plating any help is appreciated ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From spamiam at comcast.net Fri Sep 21 09:36:29 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 15:36:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance Message-ID: <092120071536.8843.46F3E4FD0008698A0000228B2207021633030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Does anybody know the ignition advance information for the TR4A? I know that stock static advance is 4 degrees BTDC, but what is the full vacuum advance? What is the full mechanical advance? Someone said to me that these engines can not tolerate all that much total advance (I.E. less than 30 degrees). I would have expected that a total advance in the mid-30's would have been about right! -Tony From darrellw at ipns.com Fri Sep 21 10:38:31 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 09:38:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance In-Reply-To: <092120071536.8843.46F3E4FD0008698A0000228B2207021633030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> References: <092120071536.8843.46F3E4FD0008698A0000228B2207021633030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: This table has been floated around the list before: Vacuum Advance dist. 40795 Inches Hg Degree Crank advance 2.0 0 3.0 1 4.0 1.75 5.0 2.5 6.0 2.75 Centrifugal Advance RPM Degrees Crankshaft advance 500 0 700 0-2 1200 5-7 1600 9-11 So if you believe this is indeed crank degrees, you get a total max advance of: 4 + 2.75 + 11 = 17.75 degrees But I don't believe the above figures are in crank degrees, but rather distributor degrees (half of crank). But the initial advance maybe crank. So that gives you: 4 + 5.5 + 22 = 31.5 degrees Which seems like a reasonable number. I recently read a book on powertuning ignition systems, and it claims the combustion chamber shape is the biggest factor in how much advance the engine can tolerate. The one that most closely matches the TR head was called a "bathtub" chamber, and they said 33-34 degrees. So that would be in line with second calculation. -Darrell On Sep 21, 2007, at 8:36 AM, spamiam at comcast.net wrote: > Does anybody know the ignition advance information for the TR4A? > > I know that stock static advance is 4 degrees BTDC, but what is the > full vacuum advance? What is the full mechanical advance? > > Someone said to me that these engines can not tolerate all that > much total advance (I.E. less than 30 degrees). I would have > expected that a total advance in the mid-30's would have been about > right! > > -Tony > _______________________________________________ > darrellw at ipns.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From Btmfdchn at aol.com Fri Sep 21 10:41:51 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 12:41:51 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance Message-ID: In a message dated 9/21/2007 8:37:18 AM Pacific Daylight Time, spamiam at comcast.net writes: Does anybody know the ignition advance information for the TR4A? I know that stock static advance is 4 degrees BTDC, but what is the full vacuum advance? What is the full mechanical advance? Someone said to me that these engines can not tolerate all that much total advance (I.E. less than 30 degrees). I would have expected that a total advance in the mid-30's would have been about right! -Tony Greetings... The vac advance unit should be marked 2-6-3. Advance starts at 2in of hg, all in at 6 in of hg with 3 degrees advance at the dizzy-6 at the crank. Not much. Centrifugal advance depends on what dizzy you've got. TJ ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From darrellw at ipns.com Fri Sep 21 10:44:57 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 09:44:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance In-Reply-To: References: <092120071536.8843.46F3E4FD0008698A0000228B2207021633030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <14293804-D646-4A5B-B872-E0A142D3D546@ipns.com> I should add another point. I also think the RPM is in dist RPM, as most things I've read claim that the mechanical advance should be "all in" between 3000 and 3600 RPM (engine). Also, you probably won't see max vacuum advance at the same time as the max mechanical advance (vacuum advance goes away at WOT). -Darrell On Sep 21, 2007, at 9:38 AM, Darrell Walker wrote: > This table has been floated around the list before: > > Vacuum Advance dist. 40795 > > Inches Hg Degree Crank advance > 2.0 0 > 3.0 1 > 4.0 1.75 > 5.0 2.5 > 6.0 2.75 > > Centrifugal Advance > > RPM Degrees Crankshaft advance > 500 0 > 700 0-2 > 1200 5-7 > 1600 9-11 > > So if you believe this is indeed crank degrees, you get a total max > advance of: > > 4 + 2.75 + 11 = 17.75 degrees > > But I don't believe the above figures are in crank degrees, but > rather distributor degrees (half of crank). But the initial advance > maybe crank. So that gives you: > > 4 + 5.5 + 22 = 31.5 degrees > > Which seems like a reasonable number. I recently read a book on > powertuning ignition systems, and it claims the combustion chamber > shape is the biggest factor in how much advance the engine can > tolerate. The one that most closely matches the TR head was called a > "bathtub" chamber, and they said 33-34 degrees. So that would be in > line with second calculation. > > -Darrell > > > On Sep 21, 2007, at 8:36 AM, spamiam at comcast.net wrote: > >> Does anybody know the ignition advance information for the TR4A? >> >> I know that stock static advance is 4 degrees BTDC, but what is the >> full vacuum advance? What is the full mechanical advance? >> >> Someone said to me that these engines can not tolerate all that >> much total advance (I.E. less than 30 degrees). I would have >> expected that a total advance in the mid-30's would have been about >> right! >> >> -Tony >> _______________________________________________ >> darrellw at ipns.com >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> Triumphs mailing list >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > _______________________________________________ > darrellw at ipns.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 21 11:03:36 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 10:03:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance In-Reply-To: References: <092120071536.8843.46F3E4FD0008698A0000228B2207021633030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <01af01c7fc71$59826410$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > But I don't believe the above figures are in crank degrees, but > rather distributor degrees (half of crank). But the initial advance > maybe crank. FWIW, I agree with Darrell. In addition, the rpm figures shown are in distributor rpm, not crank rpm; and the vacuum advance numbers are in distributor degrees. Not entirely certain, but I think the 2.75 degrees @ 6" Hg is a "minimum" figure. My information gives a "nominal" figure of 3 degrees maximum advance @ 6" Hg. This is for P/N 54413565, which is the advance unit that is supposed to be fitted to a 40795 dizzy. Randall From spamiam at comcast.net Fri Sep 21 11:05:04 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 17:05:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance Message-ID: <092120071705.1965.46F3F9C00001B0F5000007AD2200750438030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Thanks the the info. This will help me make some decisions about the ignition system. I am glad you clarified the crank vs dizzy RPM. I had initially thought it was showing crank RPM, which seemed low to me. The dizzy RPM makes better sense. The 2-6-3 advance is surprisingly low, It would appear that the advance is nearly "Full" all the time, and it only adds 6 crank degrees anyway! Most of the advance units I saw for other carbs were listed for rather more than that, but maxed out at higher vac levels. The highest mechanical advance listed in the chart you gave was 18-22 crank degrees at 3200 crank RPM. Should I assume this is the maximum mechanical advance, or will it go up some from there even further? BTW, 4 static + 6 vacuum + 22 mechanical = 30 total degrees, or so it would appear. Thanks! -Tony -------------- Original message -------------- From: Btmfdchn at aol.com In a message dated 9/21/2007 8:37:18 AM Pacific Daylight Time, spamiam at comcast.net writes: Does anybody know the ignition advance information for the TR4A? I know that stock static advance is 4 degrees BTDC, but what is the full vacuum advance? What is the full mechanical advance? Someone said to me that these engines can not tolerate all that much total advance (I.E. less than 30 degrees). I would have expected that a total advance in the mid-30's would have been about right! -Tony Greetings... The vac advance unit should be marked 2-6-3. Advance starts at 2in of hg, all in at 6 in of hg with 3 degrees advance at the dizzy-6 at the crank. Not much. Centrifugal advance depends on what dizzy you've got. TJ See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage. From nwolf at u.washington.edu Fri Sep 21 11:29:19 2007 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 10:29:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] To vent or not to vent? Message-ID: Hi Paul Does your car have a road draft tube (left side of engine block)? If so, then a hose connection to the air filter would tend to suck dirty air into the engine from under the car. Before retrofitting either of the later topside configurations (valve cover vented to air filters via flame trap, or to intake manifold via PCV valve), you should make sure the draft tube is gone and its hole plugged. Alternatively, you could keep the draft tube and fit a little air filter to the vent spigot on the cover. Or go back to the original valve cover. On the other hand, if you have no draft tube, then yes - you really should have the valve cover connected to the intake somehow. Removing the road draft tube is supposed to eliminate about half of the car's hydrocarbon emissions (but not CO, CO2, etc.), according to Wikipedia. My car (assembled from at least three different donors) arrived with a road draft tube AND a hose connection to an air filter. I've plugged the rubber hose for now and I'll be removing the draft tube and installing the PCV valve setup in the near future. -Nick 64-ish TR4 with some early TR4 and late TR4A thrown in. I like to think of it as a "best of" compilation. > Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 20:57:21 -0400 > From: "Paul Dorsey" > > My question is, since the vc is vented (for now), shouldn't I vent it? > (Since my air filter does have a place for a air vent hose and it would be > simple to do.) Are their other anti-smog measures I should take with > my '60 > model? I am fairly concerned about the environment and I am > unconcerned with > originality. However, I do not want to sacrifice economy or performance > unless it makes a great deal of difference. > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3A w/ a mostly TR4 motor From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Fri Sep 21 11:48:27 2007 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 13:48:27 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Vent Message-ID: Paul, Neither the TR3 nor TR4 engines had a closed crankcase in the US, instead having the vent pipe at the rear of the block on the driver's side and a vented valve cover (oil filler) cap. The shape and location of the vent pipe caused some vacuum when the car is moving, so crankcase fumes are sucked out of the crankcase. Starting with the TR4A, Triumph used a closed crankcase system, including a flat PCV valve between the valve cover and intake manifold, plus a sealed (non-vented) oil filler cap on the valve cover, plus a felt gasket on the dipstick. All these pieces must be in place for the system to perform correctly, and they don't affect the engine's operation adversely. If you don't want to dump fumes into the environment, get a TR4A valve cover and sealed cap, plus the PCV valve and hoses, and a felt washer for the dipstick. All this should be available from Moss, OK, maybe not the valve cover. I have this setup on my 1965 TR4A and have no problem with it. Good luck! George Haynes ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 21 12:10:17 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 11:10:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Vent In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01c601c7fc7a$a9ff02a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Neither the TR3 nor TR4 engines had a closed crankcase in the > US, With respect, George, I don't believe that is quite right. California mandated control of crankcase emissions in 1963, so at least some TR4s had a closed crankcase. Moss catalog shows the vent to the carbs starting at CT23594, which seems about right. Those early systems only vented to the air cleaners, so no PCV valve, but they did not have the road draft tube. Randall From spamiam at comcast.net Fri Sep 21 13:43:52 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 19:43:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance Message-ID: <092120071943.25131.46F41EF80005955A0000622B2200763692030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> I saw the large listing of the Lucas dizzies by Chichak. It looks as if he had access to some Lucas documents for this info. It looks pretty reliable to me. It indicates 4 RPM data. 225 rpm = zero degrees 350 rpm = 1 degree 600 rpm = 6 degrees 1200 rpm = 10 degrees These seem to be referring to distributor RPM and degrees. I now am pretty sure that the highest RPM listed represents "full" advance, too. Also, I think that at the low RPM levels, the exact advance was pretty variable in these units, and this is why they specify static timing rather than strobe timing. These numbers seem to make more sense than the zero at 500-1000 rpm. -Tony -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > > BTW, 4 static + 6 vacuum + 22 mechanical = 30 total degrees, > > or so it would appear. > > Generally, when people talk of "total" advance, they do not include vacuum > advance. But you are quite right, it is possible to get that much, only not > with the throttle very far open. > > BTW, Chichak gives max advance for the 40795 as 10 degrees @ 1200 rpm. I > don't have any information of my own handy, but that would be the first > mistake in his database that I know of. > http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0015.html > > Randall From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Sep 21 14:16:07 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 16:16:07 EDT Subject: [TR] Collector Car Security Message-ID: I found this interesting, especially the smartwater link...... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of HowtoDeterCollectorCarTheft.doc] From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Fri Sep 21 17:28:20 2007 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 19:28:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paging Kai Radicke/Wishbone Classics? Message-ID: <380-220079521232820640@earthlink.net> Hello, Sorry to bomb the list, but I've been leaving phone and email messages for Kai Radicke of Wishbone Classics in Philadelphia for weeks, with no reply. Has anyone here had any contact with him since July? Thanks, Tom Marincic "Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" Henry David Thoreau http://www.triumphowners.com/735 From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Sep 21 17:46:30 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 23:46:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 tire recommendations? Message-ID: <092120072346.7226.46F457D6000A4D6700001C3A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Sorry I'm chiming in late here. I didn't catch whether these were 48 spoke wheels or more? Don't the old wire wheels take 165's, and the newer ones accept larger, 185's because of the width of the rim? -------------- Original message -------------- From: ray at raysmg.com > I'm running Vredestein; from Coker...two day delivery. Made in Norway, > looks good, good tread pattern, and a good price...$85/tire ($15/tire > for shipping). It's a 40,000 mile tire. I've been very happy with them > on my TR3. > > Ray > Ray McCaleb > ray at raysmg.com > http://www.raysmg.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Sep 21 18:35:15 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 20:35:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paging Kai Radicke/Wishbone Classics? In-Reply-To: <380-220079521232820640@earthlink.net> References: <380-220079521232820640@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <000001c7fcb0$75aec4a0$210110ac@bobspc> I saw Kai at VTR in Valley Forge but he hasn't responded to any of my emails since then either. Maybe some of the PA List members know what's going on. He usually monitors the List and has always responded to my emails. I hope everything is OK. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tomislav Marincic Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 7:28 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Paging Kai Radicke/Wishbone Classics? Hello, Sorry to bomb the list, but I've been leaving phone and email messages for Kai Radicke of Wishbone Classics in Philadelphia for weeks, with no reply. Has anyone here had any contact with him since July? Thanks, Tom Marincic "Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" Henry David Thoreau http://www.triumphowners.com/735 _______________________________________________ No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.27/1020 - Release Date: 9/20/2007 12:07 PM From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu Fri Sep 21 19:28:40 2007 From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 18:28:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Rebuild Rocker Assembly ? Message-ID: <46F46FC8.8020607@mrl.ucsb.edu> Hi, Folks, Long time no post! I see where British Parts Northwest ( http://www.bpnorthwest.com ) has this new 25D4 distributor for $145. It's a drop in replacement for TR 3-4a and includes everything except for the dizzy cap. Almost seems too good to be true. ( Danger, Will Robinson!) I'm not sure if if you could have your original dizzy recurved for that. Anyone tried it? Is it a Lucas item ? If it IS a Lucas item, is that good or bad? Next subject: Rocker Assembly. My rockers seem noisy to me even after I've checked my valve clearances....twice. ( Yes, I backed off and re-torqued the rocker arm pedestals too. ) This assembly has about 110K miles and I'm getting that pronounced 'sewing machine' sound from the valve gear. ISTR several listerati have used 'Rocker Arm Specialists' in Anderson, CA. That correct? They're showing a TR 3-4a rocker assembly rebuild on your core for $165. Do they replace the shaft or just rebush the rockers? ( I'm assuming they rebush the rockers at the very least ) When it's all done, does it still sound like a sewing machine, just a quieter one? Happy Motoring! -jeffrey From ZoboHerald at aol.com Fri Sep 21 19:29:44 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 21:29:44 EDT Subject: [TR] Paging Kai Radicke/Wishbone Classics? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/21/2007 7:28:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net writes: Sorry to bomb the list, but I've been leaving phone and email messages for Kai Radicke of Wishbone Classics in Philadelphia for weeks, with no reply. Has anyone here had any contact with him since July? ==AM== I'm pretty sure I just saw at least one auction of his on eBay earlier this week! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From ZoboHerald at aol.com Fri Sep 21 19:30:03 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 21:30:03 EDT Subject: [TR] Paging Kai Radicke/Wishbone Classics? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/21/2007 7:28:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net writes: Sorry to bomb the list, but I've been leaving phone and email messages for Kai Radicke of Wishbone Classics in Philadelphia for weeks, with no reply. Has anyone here had any contact with him since July? ==AM== I'm pretty sure I just saw at least one auction of his on eBay earlier this week! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 21 19:51:55 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 18:51:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Rebuild Rocker Assembly ? In-Reply-To: <46F46FC8.8020607@mrl.ucsb.edu> References: <46F46FC8.8020607@mrl.ucsb.edu> Message-ID: <021c01c7fcbb$2768c510$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Do they replace the shaft or just rebush the rockers? ( I'm assuming > they rebush the rockers at the very least ) When they did mine, they very definitely replaced the shaft with new. Also new adjusters and new lock nuts. Rocker tips were refaced, rockers were cleaned and had what appeared to be light copper plating on them (as original). In fact, I'm not absolutely certain they didn't replace all the rockers, as they looked absolutely brand new. New springs as well. Only the pedestals and end caps didn't look brand new (and they looked very nice). I'm definitely a happy customer. Randall From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Fri Sep 21 19:56:46 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 20:56:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Rebuild Rocker Assembly ? In-Reply-To: <46F46FC8.8020607@mrl.ucsb.edu> References: <46F46FC8.8020607@mrl.ucsb.edu> Message-ID: <200709220157.l8M1v5xh099546@ns3.geneseo.net> Often, but not always, what hapens to cause extra noise is that the contact patch between the valve stem and the rocker arm wears and the area outside the contact patch does not wear. I've seen older rockers with about a .010 groove worn in them. of course when that has happened, the feeler gauge doesn't feel the right things. At 08:28 PM 9/21/2007, Jeffrey Barteet wrote: >Hi, Folks, > >Long time no post! > >I see where British Parts Northwest ( http://www.bpnorthwest.com ) has >this new 25D4 distributor for $145. It's a drop in replacement for TR >3-4a and includes everything except for the dizzy cap. > >Almost seems too good to be true. ( Danger, Will Robinson!) I'm not sure >if if you could have your original dizzy recurved for that. Anyone tried >it? > >Is it a Lucas item ? If it IS a Lucas item, is that good or bad? > >Next subject: Rocker Assembly. > >My rockers seem noisy to me even after I've checked my valve >clearances....twice. ( Yes, I backed off and re-torqued the rocker arm >pedestals too. ) This assembly has about 110K miles and I'm getting that >pronounced 'sewing machine' sound from the valve gear. > >ISTR several listerati have used 'Rocker Arm Specialists' in Anderson, >CA. That correct? They're showing a TR 3-4a rocker assembly rebuild on >your core for $165. > >Do they replace the shaft or just rebush the rockers? ( I'm assuming >they rebush the rockers at the very least ) > > >When it's all done, does it still sound like a sewing machine, just a >quieter one? > >Happy Motoring! > >-jeffrey >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Sep 21 19:58:28 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 01:58:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: Hi List, I am considering installing a lift in my garage. Does anyone have any recommendations as to the brand I should consider? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ More photos; more messages; more whatever  Get MORE with Windows Live Hotmail.. NOW with 5GB storage. http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration _HM_mini_5G_0907 From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Sep 21 20:43:56 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 22:43:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Vent References: <01c601c7fc7a$a9ff02a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <0b1e01c7fc91$ebd830e0$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <020301c7fc95$c2cbc7d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <0b2501c7fcc2$6dd921f0$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Randall, The EPA website said: Hydrocarbon emissions result from incomplete fuel combustion and from fuel evaporation This sounds like an oversimplifacation, but still I am wondering if one's 'HCE' goes down according to how efficient the combustion is? And is this the same thing as saying 'how well tuned the engine is?' Trying to reduce my 'carbon tireprint', Paul Dorsey From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Sep 21 21:02:45 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 23:02:45 EDT Subject: [TR] Collector Car Security Message-ID: In a message dated 9/21/2007 2:16:50 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, BearTranserv at aol.com writes: I found this interesting, especially the smartwater link...... Crapola, I forgot about the no attachments rule...anyone interested, email me Monday and I'll send it from work. RBH ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Sep 21 21:11:34 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 23:11:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] carb fuel 'mist' confusion Message-ID: <0b2c01c7fcc6$49867060$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> list, It seems odd to me that the 'forceful mist' created by the engine sucking about 14 parts air to 1 part gasoline needs to be highly organized as it does. Let me runover the process and please feel free to add something if you think it would clarify things. Again, this forceful mist of air/gas is sucked up out of the jet, travels thru the venturi/carburetor/intake manifold and into the cylinder's combustion chamber 5-6" away from where the fuel first hits the needle. The difficult part to understand is it simply the dispursement of the gas molecules in the incoming stream that determines how smooth an engine runs? Seemingly, if the carb's needle is not centered then, at the jet, it still has the same surface area of gasoline exposed to the suction, right? Or is this hocus pocus? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 21 21:16:26 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 21:16:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] Collector Car Security In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070922031600.7B4EB1879BD@autox.team.net> Here is the SmartWater Link: http://www.smartwater.com/news/fom.html Interesting indeed, for more than just your car. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BearTranserv at aol.com Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 9:03 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Collector Car Security In a message dated 9/21/2007 2:16:50 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, BearTranserv at aol.com writes: I found this interesting, especially the smartwater link...... Crapola, I forgot about the no attachments rule...anyone interested, email me Monday and I'll send it from work. RBH ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1021 - Release Date: 9/21/2007 2:02 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1021 - Release Date: 9/21/2007 2:02 PM From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 21 21:26:35 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 21:26:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] carb fuel 'mist' confusion In-Reply-To: <0b2c01c7fcc6$49867060$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070922032610.A47261879FE@autox.team.net> Paul, You have been under the TR too long, get some sleep. You pose an interesting question/therom but at the end of the day will it really affect the enjoyment of blasting down the road in that LBC or hearing the wonderful burbble of the exhaust as you downshift, only to 2nd gear of course. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 9:12 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] carb fuel 'mist' confusion list, It seems odd to me that the 'forceful mist' created by the engine sucking about 14 parts air to 1 part gasoline needs to be highly organized as it does. Let me runover the process and please feel free to add something if you think it would clarify things. Again, this forceful mist of air/gas is sucked up out of the jet, travels thru the venturi/carburetor/intake manifold and into the cylinder's combustion chamber 5-6" away from where the fuel first hits the needle. The difficult part to understand is it simply the dispursement of the gas molecules in the incoming stream that determines how smooth an engine runs? Seemingly, if the carb's needle is not centered then, at the jet, it still has the same surface area of gasoline exposed to the suction, right? Or is this hocus pocus? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1021 - Release Date: 9/21/2007 2:02 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1021 - Release Date: 9/21/2007 2:02 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 21 22:35:00 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 21:35:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] carb fuel 'mist' confusion In-Reply-To: <0b2c01c7fcc6$49867060$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <0b2c01c7fcc6$49867060$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <024901c7fcd1$efcbe530$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Seemingly, if the > carb's needle is not centered then, at the jet, it still has > the same surface > area of gasoline exposed to the suction, right? That's actually right, Paul. It's important that the needles be centered for a different reason : if the needle rubs against the side of the jet, the resulting friction will affect the smooth motion of the piston. This in turn causes the venturi size to not be accurately controlled, which means the velocity through the venturi will also be wrong, and thus the depression that sucks fuel out of the jet will be wrong. So, any rubbing will upset mixture not because the opening is off to one side or the other, but because both the opening and the depression/vacuum operating on the opening will be upset. There is another reason that needle centering is important, which is that if the needle rubs against the jet at all, it will wear both the needle and jet. (They are both brass and fairly soft, plus brass on brass does not make a nearly as good a bearing as brass on steel.) The wear will also upset the mixture in a particularly bad way, by making it richer at idle. Then when you adjust the idle mixture by the book, the cruise mixture will be too lean. I believe this is the source of at least some persistent overheating problems; at least it was the problem that my Dad's TR3A had (and which eventually led to the engine swallowing a valve, IMO). My friend's 59 MGA jets were so badly worn that he could not get the mixture lean enough at idle even with the mixture nuts all the way up. Randall From areich at telus.net Fri Sep 21 22:48:18 2007 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 21:48:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lift in my Garage Message-ID: <46F49E92.7020107@telus.net> Tom: About 3 years ago, I bought a CL8000 four post lift - Made by Complete Lifts. It is narrow enough to allow a TR3 to drive on without changing the ramps, as w ell as wide enough for American cars. I got a 110 Volt motor, that I switched over to 220V. I got this in case I sol d it to someone with only 110V. It comes with wheels so you can move it around . I use it to move it more to the centre when working on cars, then off to the side when not. Lately it has been in the centre way too much! It came with a heavy jacking tray, and two lighter drip trays (not sure why I need drip trays with a Triump!). I have been very pleased with it and often use it as a "double parker" with one car up, and the other underneath Allan Reich Vancouver 1960 TR3A ======================= Tom White Wrote: Hi List, I am considering installing a lift in my garage. Does anyone have any recommendations as to the brand I should consider? Thanks. Best regards, Tom From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 21 22:51:12 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 21:51:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Vent In-Reply-To: <0b2501c7fcc2$6dd921f0$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <01c601c7fc7a$a9ff02a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <0b1e01c7fc91$ebd830e0$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <020301c7fc95$c2cbc7d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <0b2501c7fcc2$6dd921f0$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <024f01c7fcd4$33868a30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > This sounds like an oversimplifacation, but still I am > wondering if one's > 'HCE' goes down according to how efficient the combustion is? Perhaps a better way to put it is that incomplete combustion results in HCs in the exhaust. > And is this > the same thing as saying 'how well tuned the engine is?' Not really. Mixture plays a relatively small part in HC emissions unless it is so far off that it causes misfires. As long as the mixture is somewhere in the ballpark, and the ignition system is in good shape, then HC will be relatively low. Getting it lower usually involves design changes to the engine (for example reducing nooks and crannies in the combustion chamber, like the space between the top of the top ring and the piston head). Or of course a catalytic converter that can burn the HCs to H2O and CO2. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Sep 21 22:51:27 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 00:51:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] carb fuel 'mist' confusion In-Reply-To: <0b2c01c7fcc6$49867060$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <46F4670F.20067.5625817@localhost> On 21 Sep 2007 at 23:11, Paul Dorsey asked: > The difficult part to understand is it simply the dispursement > of the gas molecules in the incoming stream that determines how > smooth an engine runs? It isn't such a simple process as it seems. First, the gasoline droplets must evaporate, not just be a mist. Combustion can happen only at an air/gasoline boundary, and the total surface of gasoline which can come into contact with air is much greater if the droplets are smaller. Ideally they will completely evaporate so that every molecule has adjacent air molecules available. Evaporation happens only with sufficient mixing and some small amount of heat. (Some heat comes from the compression stroke, some comes from the walls of the manifold. Too much heat from the manifold means that the air expands so the total amount of air actually sucked into the cylinders is lower, meaning less power.) Obviously if you start with smaller droplets the evaporation will be better. Secondly, the air in the cylinder must be swirling the right way. The flame starts at the plug but doesn't then burn all the gasoline immediately. The flame spreads through the air/gas mixture at a reasonably slow rate when compared to the engine speed. The swirling of the air in the cylinder is one factor in how far the flame spreads and thus how much of the gas is burned before the exhaust valve opens. Indeed, the shape of the combustion chamber and how the gas exits the intake valve passage are big factors in cylinder head design. A "hemi" is a hemi for a reason! > Seemingly, if the carb's needle is not centered then, at the > jet, it still has the same surface area of gasoline exposed to > the suction, right? Maybe, but that isn't necessarily the most important thing. I suspect that early SU and Zenith-Stromberg carbs wanted centered needles to minimize wear on the needle and jet, and to reduce friction on the piston. Actually, as emissions requirements tightened they found that when the needle was in contact with the side of the jet instead of centered the fuel droplets were more uniform size. That gave more consistent mixing of air and gas, so mixtures could be made leaner. So the later SU's (at least, I don't know about Zenith-Stromberg) actually had the needle mounted against a spring in such a way that the needle was pushed sideways to contact the jet wall. So some carbs actually want the needle rubbing the wall. In any case, two jet/needle combinations with the same total area in the jet might not produce the same mixture if one is centered and one isn't. The shape of that area might make a difference. So yeah, it can affect how the car runs! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.27/1020 - Release Date: 9/20/2007 12:07 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 21 22:59:15 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 21:59:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] carb fuel 'mist' confusion In-Reply-To: <46F4670F.20067.5625817@localhost> References: <0b2c01c7fcc6$49867060$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <46F4670F.20067.5625817@localhost> Message-ID: <025501c7fcd5$53222a10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > So the later SU's (at least, I don't > know about Zenith-Stromberg) actually had the needle mounted against > a spring in such a way that the needle was pushed sideways to contact > the jet wall. ZS carbs also used spring-loaded needles. However I don't believe it was done because having a crescent-shaped opening resulted in more even drop size; but rather because they had to be certain the needles could not be off-center enough to upset the mixture. Randall From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Sat Sep 22 04:16:38 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 05:16:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] carb fuel 'mist' confusion In-Reply-To: <46F4670F.20067.5625817@localhost> References: <0b2c01c7fcc6$49867060$790260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <46F4670F.20067.5625817@localhost> Message-ID: <200709221017.l8MAGxJo120445@ns3.geneseo.net> >What's interesting about all this is what really happens - or >doesn't happen very well - with SU carburetors. If you look down the >throat of the SU carbs while the engine is wailing away at 6000 on >a dyno, what you see is huge droplets of gas going out of the jet, >not the mist I would visualize. Utterly astounding. Not exactly a >safe thing to do, of course, but that has never stopped me from >doing anything. It's a miracle that all this vaporizing actually >happens before combustion, given our really poor intake passge shape >and lousy combustion chamber design. And if we don't think this is a poor design, we can ask ourselves why an engine of two liters is so difficult to get over 150 hp when engines of this size in modern cars get MUCH more hp. A trip to the local auto machine shop and a look down the intake ports of modern engines is quite revealing. uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From 6parts at charter.net Sat Sep 22 06:50:50 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 08:50:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 speedometer needle Message-ID: <004d01c7fd17$34991030$8d86c518@alan> I recently had part of the indicator needle on the speedometer break off. I have a speedometer for spare parts. I am hoping I can pull the needle from one and put it on the other. Just not sure how it comes off. I just don't want to yank it off and destroy it in the process too. Anybody BTDT. Thanks Al Salvatore From ray at raysmg.com Sat Sep 22 07:41:15 2007 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 06:41:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 tire recommendations? Message-ID: <20070922064115.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.cebe3125ab.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Terry wrote: "I didn't catch whether these were 48 spoke wheels or more?" I'm running 165s on original 48 spoke wheels. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From spamiam at comcast.net Sat Sep 22 07:41:17 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:41:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 speedometer needle References: Message-ID: <002801c7fd1e$415eda50$6401a8c0@p4server> Wow, I wonder what made it break off?! The needle is press-fit on the spindle. BUT, it is sometimes terribly hard to get off. See my repair monograph for general info. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rhodes/speedo.html However, I have had more thoughts since then on getting that darned pointer off. Simply holding the "drag cup" and then twisting back and forth on the pointer and pulling may actually move the entire spindle in the cup. The cup is also just a press fit on the spindle! This may not be good as it will move the cup toward/away from the magnets in relation to the spindle. (I have been re-writing the monograph, but I have bad a hard time finding the time!) So, how do you hold the SPINDLE securely when trying to pull off the pointer. Well, you need to remove the frame, but how do you do that without having already removed the face which requires removal of the pointer? Well, loosening the 2 screws holding the face will allow it to be tipped up without actually removing it. Then you can slide in a knife edge into the slots of the screws holding the subframe to the frame to remove it. Then you can separate parts and have access to the spindle. Then remove the pointer and face. Service the rest of the works while you are there, then reattach the subframe to the frame, attach the face, then the pointer, then recalibrate the pointer. -Tony >Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 08:50:50 -0400 >From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> >Subject: [TR] TR6 speedometer needle >To: , "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> >Message-ID: <004d01c7fd17$34991030$8d86c518 at alan> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >I recently had part of the indicator needle on the speedometer break off. >I have a speedometer for spare parts. I am hoping I can pull the needle >from >one and put it on the other. Just not sure how it comes off. >I just don't want to yank it off and destroy it in the process too. >Anybody BTDT. > >Thanks > >Al Salvatore From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Sep 22 07:43:16 2007 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:43:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Rebuild Rocker Assembly ? In-Reply-To: <200709220157.l8M1v5xh099546@ns3.geneseo.net> References: <46F46FC8.8020607@mrl.ucsb.edu> <200709220157.l8M1v5xh099546@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <6fa72a770709220643k6b14da78u4a4cbe1343a41866@mail.gmail.com> My rocker arms definately have the grooves worn in them - was using a wire to set clearances until I bought the clickadjust. Even when adjusted correctly (best that I can tell and checked with a feeler guage wire vs blade, my valve cover noises are loud and can easily be heard in the cockpit until 2000 rpm or so. Looks like my valve train will make a trip to California this winter. I believe I have seen vavle covers with soiund deading material glued on the inside or outside of them, is this a commonly available aftermarket material? Thanks Chris From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Sep 22 07:44:53 2007 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:44:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lift in my Garage In-Reply-To: <46F49E92.7020107@telus.net> References: <46F49E92.7020107@telus.net> Message-ID: <6fa72a770709220644m55aa2237p72026a185be704d7@mail.gmail.com> I have a similar lift and have been very happy with it. The TR2 has the top bunk and my tr4 the bottom bunk. On 9/22/07, Allan Reich wrote: > > Tom: > About 3 years ago, I bought a CL8000 four post lift - Made by Complete > Lifts. > It is narrow enough to allow a TR3 to drive on without changing the ramps, > as w > ell as wide enough for American cars. > > I got a 110 Volt motor, that I switched over to 220V. I got this in case > I sol > d it to someone with only 110V. It comes with wheels so you can move it > around > . I use it to move it more to the centre when working on cars, then off > to the > side when not. Lately it has been in the centre way too much! It came > with a > heavy jacking tray, and two lighter drip trays (not sure why I need drip > trays > with a Triump!). > > I have been very pleased with it and often use it as a "double parker" > with one > car up, and the other underneath > > Allan Reich > Vancouver > 1960 TR3A > ======================= > Tom White Wrote: > Hi List, > > I am considering installing a lift in my garage. Does anyone have > any > recommendations as to the brand I should consider? > Thanks. > Best regards, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Sep 22 07:45:45 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:45:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] carb fuel 'mist' confusion In-Reply-To: <025501c7fcd5$53222a10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <46F4670F.20067.5625817@localhost> Message-ID: <46F4E449.8246.74B834E@localhost> On 21 Sep 2007 at 21:59, Randall wrote: > However I don't believe it was > done because having a crescent-shaped opening resulted in more even drop > size; but rather because they had to be certain the needles could not be > off-center enough to upset the mixture. I stand corrected. Actually, I'm sitting. Very shortly we'll be sitting in the Spitfire, off to Cape Cod. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1021 - Release Date: 9/21/2007 2:02 PM From spamiam at comcast.net Sat Sep 22 07:46:45 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:46:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Rebuild Rocker Assembly ? References: Message-ID: <002d01c7fd1f$0431bb10$6401a8c0@p4server> Jeff, I have been wondering the same thing about those new dizzies. You saw my previous questions about ignition advance curves... Not all 25D4 units are the same. Not at all! And, it almost appears that there is ONE new unit that applies to all 25D4 applications. I am not sure that this is actually true, but I am very suspicious. But for that price, it might not be bad to order one then look at it. Hopefully it will have markings on it to tell what its parameters are. Like the 2-6-3 on the vacuum unit, and the 10 on the advance mechanism. But then it is anybody's guess what the spring rates are controlling the advance curve! It might be better to send out your current unit to get it rebuilt. BTW, who is the guy that was listed here who does a good job rebuilding these units including new vacuum units? -Tony ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 18:28:40 -0700 > From: Jeffrey Barteet > Subject: [TR] New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Rebuild Rocker Assembly ? > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <46F46FC8.8020607 at mrl.ucsb.edu> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Hi, Folks, > > Long time no post! > > I see where British Parts Northwest ( http://www.bpnorthwest.com ) has > this new 25D4 distributor for $145. It's a drop in replacement for TR > 3-4a and includes everything except for the dizzy cap. > > Almost seems too good to be true. ( Danger, Will Robinson!) I'm not sure > if if you could have your original dizzy recurved for that. Anyone tried > it? > > Is it a Lucas item ? If it IS a Lucas item, is that good or bad? > > Happy Motoring! > > -jeffrey From pethier at comcast.net Sat Sep 22 08:25:12 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 14:25:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 tire recommendations? Message-ID: <092220071425.2173.46F525C800080F0E0000087D22070209539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: ray at raysmg.com > Terry wrote: "I didn't catch whether these were 48 spoke wheels or > more?" > > I'm running 165s on original 48 spoke wheels. These wheels are as I recall 4 inches wide. They will support 165-section tires just fine. I'd drive the car gently, were I you. If you decide to upgrade, I'd suggest painted 60-spoke Dayton wheels, which stand up well in spirited driving. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 22 08:26:32 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 14:26:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] Maintenance book. Message-ID: I have been considering the purchase of a Jag XJ-S. In my research I found a free book at www.jaglovers.com, which is downloadable for free, that details the maintenance problems and the proper fixes for the V-12 engine. This book has been compiled from the archives of the V-12 engine list. It is a comprehensive anthology of almost everything that can go wrong with the car. The book is 736 pages long. Why doesn't someone on this list (Randall) author a similar work for Triumphs? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Gear up for Halo. 3 with free downloads and an exclusive offer. Its our way of saying thanks for using Windows Live. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 22 10:08:19 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 09:08:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 speedometer needle In-Reply-To: <004d01c7fd17$34991030$8d86c518@alan> Message-ID: <20070922160722.EZJN16948.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I recently had part of the indicator needle on the > speedometer break off. Are you sure the movement still works otherwise ? Might be that the movement failed, and banging against the pin is what broke the needle ? As Tony (the recognized expert) says, the needle should just pull straight off. But if it's stuck tightly enough, it may upset the mechanism removing it. Tony may find a way to prevent that, but it looks to me like you just have to press things back if it happens. Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Sep 22 11:00:25 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 13:00:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lift in my Garage References: <46F49E92.7020107@telus.net> Message-ID: <001f01c7fd3a$1251a6e0$5918e247@DCS78M81> I've got a two post Mohawk lift that I love. It's got 3. inch clearance, which is the lowest in the industry. I got the 10,000 pound one which is WAY overkill for the Triumphs, but not so much for the GMC 2500HD truck. I did a fair amount of research and am happy that I bought the made in USA unit. It needs 12.5 feet of height for clearance - less if you run the pipes on the floor. Tom From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 22 11:27:56 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 10:27:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lift in my Garage References: <46F49E92.7020107@telus.net> <001f01c7fd3a$1251a6e0$5918e247@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <00d601c7fd3d$eb6cd8c0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> I have the Eagle Brand lift and it works fine but I wouldn't buy another lift from them. As recieved, the safety locks were defective and one of the cables that does the lifting was too long. You have to be careful with the British cars because of their narrow track. In spite of the narrow track and the wide spacing of the lift rails, I use the lift for my TR3, Marcos and TVR... you just have to be careful. I have put tape the full length of the lift rails corresponding to the colors of the cars involved and I make sure that I drive straight on the lift with the driver's side front tire on the correct colored tape. Mike Denman ----- Original Message ----- From: "THOMAS FANSHER" To: "Triumphs list" Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 10:00 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Lift in my Garage > I've got a two post Mohawk lift that I love. It's got 3. inch clearance, > which is the lowest in the industry. I got the 10,000 pound one which is > WAY > overkill for the Triumphs, but not so much for the GMC 2500HD truck. > I did a fair amount of research and am happy that I bought the made in USA > unit. It needs 12.5 feet of height for clearance - less if you run the > pipes on the floor. > Tom > _______________________________________________ > mikedenman at sbcglobal.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Sep 22 11:48:35 2007 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 13:48:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lift in my Garage In-Reply-To: <00d601c7fd3d$eb6cd8c0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> References: <46F49E92.7020107@telus.net> <001f01c7fd3a$1251a6e0$5918e247@DCS78M81> <00d601c7fd3d$eb6cd8c0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Message-ID: <6fa72a770709221048i25a06a10hac4dd6c9c781c4f0@mail.gmail.com> The tape is a good idea. I ended up moving one side of the track over 16 inches to make sure I did not fall in the hole! Been so busy - I use mine more or storage than anythign else - does come in handy for filling the diff and tranny. Chris 63 tr4 54 tr2 On 9/22/07, Mike Denman wrote: > > I have the Eagle Brand lift and it works fine but I wouldn't buy another > lift from them. As recieved, the safety locks were defective and one of > the > cables that does the lifting was too long. You have to be careful with the > British cars because of their narrow track. In spite of the narrow track > and > the wide spacing of the lift rails, I use the lift for my TR3, Marcos and > TVR... you just have to be careful. I have put tape the full length of the > lift rails corresponding to the colors of the cars involved and I make > sure > that I drive straight on the lift with the driver's side front tire on the > correct colored tape. > Mike Denman > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "THOMAS FANSHER" > To: "Triumphs list" > Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 10:00 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] Lift in my Garage > > > > I've got a two post Mohawk lift that I love. It's got 3. inch clearance, > > which is the lowest in the industry. I got the 10,000 pound one which is > > WAY > > overkill for the Triumphs, but not so much for the GMC 2500HD truck. > > I did a fair amount of research and am happy that I bought the made in > USA > > unit. It needs 12.5 feet of height for clearance - less if you run the > > pipes on the floor. > > Tom > > _______________________________________________ > > mikedenman at sbcglobal.net > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > Triumphs mailing list > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > _______________________________________________ > ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From kentech0822 at verizon.net Sat Sep 22 12:57:34 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 14:57:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lift in my Garage In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770709221048i25a06a10hac4dd6c9c781c4f0@mail.gmail.com> References: <46F49E92.7020107@telus.net><001f01c7fd3a$1251a6e0$5918e247@DCS78M81><00d601c7fd3d$eb6cd8c0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> <6fa72a770709221048i25a06a10hac4dd6c9c781c4f0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000c01c7fd4a$70082e20$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> I also use a line of tape to get my 3A on the 4-post BendPak; The inside edges of the tires are just barely on the tracks. A great outfit (nfi) has been http://www.asedeals.com/garage_lift.html. I purchased the BendPak there also a low profile AC Hydraulic jack. No problems with either and both are on my top 5 shop tools. PeterK -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simonsen [mailto:ccsimonsen at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 1:49 PM To: Mike Denman Cc: Triumphs list Subject: Re: [TR] Lift in my Garage The tape is a good idea. I ended up moving one side of the track over 16 inches to make sure I did not fall in the hole! Been so busy - I use mine more or storage than anythign else - does come in handy for filling the diff and tranny. Chris 63 tr4 54 tr2 On 9/22/07, Mike Denman wrote: > > I have the Eagle Brand lift and it works fine but I wouldn't buy > another lift from them. As recieved, the safety locks were defective > and one of the cables that does the lifting was too long. You have to > be careful with the British cars because of their narrow track. In > spite of the narrow track and the wide spacing of the lift rails, I > use the lift for my TR3, Marcos and TVR... you just have to be > careful. I have put tape the full length of the lift rails > corresponding to the colors of the cars involved and I make sure that > I drive straight on the lift with the driver's side front tire on the > correct colored tape. > Mike Denman > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "THOMAS FANSHER" > To: "Triumphs list" > Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 10:00 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] Lift in my Garage > > > > I've got a two post Mohawk lift that I love. It's got 3. inch > > clearance, which is the lowest in the industry. I got the 10,000 > > pound one which is WAY overkill for the Triumphs, but not so much > > for the GMC 2500HD truck. > > I did a fair amount of research and am happy that I bought the made > > in > USA > > unit. It needs 12.5 feet of height for clearance - less if you run > > the pipes on the floor. > > Tom > > _______________________________________________ > > mikedenman at sbcglobal.net > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > Triumphs mailing list > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > _______________________________________________ > ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From CarlSereda at aol.com Sat Sep 22 13:35:29 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 15:35:29 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 speedometer needle Message-ID: Al, I don't know about TR6 but on the TR4 speedo I had to pull speedo needle firmly and straight and carefully, to get it removed from post. But prior to th at I suggest you release the 'rest stop' wire and see where the needle naturally points to (to replicate on your recieving gauge). On my speedo and tach there is a tiny white dot painted outside the big number range (slightly below '0' mph) where I believe the needle should point to at rest (by retracting the rest wire). The needle needs slight reverse tension to keep it reasonably stable until car moves enough to raise it. If you don't 'pre-load' your needle I believe your speedo will indicate slightly higher than actual speed. Carl I recently had part of the indicator needle on the speedometer break off. I have a speedometer for spare parts. I am hoping I can pull the needle from one and put it on the other. Just not sure how it comes off. I just don't want to yank it off and destroy it in the process too. Anybody BTDT. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From BearTranserv at aol.com Sat Sep 22 13:41:38 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 15:41:38 EDT Subject: [TR] Maintenance book. Message-ID: In a message dated 9/22/2007 8:26:49 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: It is a comprehensive anthology of almost everything that can go wrong with the car. The book is 736 pages long. No wonder so many have been changed to Chevy power.... RBH ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Sat Sep 22 13:43:14 2007 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 15:43:14 EDT Subject: [TR] Vented Crankcase Message-ID: Thanks, Randall, I stand corrected. Too many years on the right coast have dimmed my recollection of what was happening in California in those years. In addition, I should have mentioned that the closed crankcase system has a plug where the vent tube might be fitted. George ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dorpaul at negia.net Sat Sep 22 14:40:57 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 16:40:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vented Crankcase References: Message-ID: <004201c7fd5a$86dca6c0$9f0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> If some later TR4A engines were closed ventilation (improving air quality at no expense to performance), why then were the earlier engines vented? Especially if venting them was detrimental? I KNOW THAT THEY WERE NOT THINKING ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENT. Also, I think we're talking vented engines as being: intake vent- at the valve cover exhaust vent- being the road draft tube Is this right? Thanks, Paul Dorsey From CarlSereda at aol.com Sat Sep 22 15:42:49 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 17:42:49 EDT Subject: [TR] re New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Message-ID: Tony and Jeff, An excellent TR distributor restorer is Bob Samara (his advert in VTR mag) or do a Google search. I talked with Bob by phone for an hour before recommending to my brother Dave. He restored Dave's TR4-A dizzy and vacuum (last year) and they came out great - arrived looking brand new and with a computer printout of curve behavior 'before' & 'after'. Dave says his motor runs beautifully. I think it was under $150. Can't recall exact car you were talking about - but if it's TR4 thru TR4A, #40795 dizzy with vacuum unit marked 2-6-3 is the one to have. Carl '63 TR4 since '74 But for that price, it might not be bad to order one then look at it. Hopefully it will have markings on it to tell what its parameters are. Like the 2-6-3 on the vacuum unit, and the 10 on the advance mechanism. But then it is anybody's guess what the spring rates are controlling the advance curve! It might be better to send out your current unit to get it rebuilt. BTW, who is the guy that was listed here who does a good job rebuilding these units including new vacuum units?


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See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 22 17:22:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 16:22:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vented Crankcase In-Reply-To: <004201c7fd5a$86dca6c0$9f0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <004201c7fd5a$86dca6c0$9f0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <02ad01c7fd6f$803c6f70$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > If some later TR4A engines were closed ventilation (improving > air quality at > no expense to performance), why then were the earlier engines vented? I can think of several reasons : "We've always done it that way" "Extra complexity and cost" "One more thing to go wrong" And IMO the Triumph crankcase emission control systems *were* rather troublesome and not good for the engines. Among other things, they promoted oil leaks, especially in engines with significant amounts of blow-by. Also resulted in increased varnish and sludge formation (which tended to increase blow-by); plus in some cases increased oil burning. First time I "opened up" my "new" Stag, it left a huge cloud of oil smoke behind me. Problem proved to be the "PCV" system, a road draft tube wouldn't have done that. But I honestly thought I had broken a piston or something from the amount of smoke it left behind. I also owned an Oldsmobile for several years that would literally pump quarts of oil through the PCV system if you kept the throttle open for very long. One good quarter-mile sprint would lose over a quart of oil that way. Ran fine otherwise. > Also, I think we're talking vented engines as being: > intake vent- at the valve cover > exhaust vent- being the road draft tube > Is this right? There must always be a crankcase vent, so perhaps "vented" vs "non-vented" is simply too confusing a terminology. But you are right, that is the configuration that OHV Triumphs used until 1963, when CA law mandated control of crankcase emissions for any car sold here. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Sep 22 17:47:40 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 19:47:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Maintenance book. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46F5715C.7803.9729541@localhost> On 22 Sep 2007 at 14:26, tom white wrote: > It is a comprehensive anthology of almost everything that can > go wrong with the car. The book is 736 pages long. One thing per page, right? (No, I won't say anything else. I will NOT say anything else. But, but it would be so easy...) > Why doesn't someone on this list (Randall) author a similar work > for Triumphs? Superb idea. Joe "Fluif" Curry, you wanna' start on a Spitfire version? I'll help any way I can with either, but I can contribute real content only for Spitfire and GT6. And probably not all that much content, when you get right down to it. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1021 - Release Date: 9/21/2007 2:02 PM From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Sep 22 18:00:24 2007 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 19:00:24 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] re New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Message-ID: <23343448.1800521190505624167.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> http://www.advanceddistributors.com/ Jeff at Paltech really recommends him. I am sending my 72's off to him this winter. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 >From: CarlSereda at aol.com >Date: 2007/09/22 Sat PM 04:42:49 CDT >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: [TR] re New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? >Tony and Jeff, >An excellent TR distributor restorer is Bob Samara (his advert in VTR mag) or >do a Google search. I talked with Bob by phone for an hour before >recommending to my brother Dave. >He restored Dave's TR4-A dizzy and vacuum (last year) and they came out great >- arrived looking brand new and with a computer printout of curve behavior >'before' & 'after'. Dave says his motor runs beautifully. I think it was under >$150. >Can't recall exact car you were talking about - but if it's TR4 thru TR4A, >#40795 dizzy with vacuum unit marked 2-6-3 is the one to have. >Carl >'63 TR4 since '74 > >But for that price, it might not be bad to order one then look at it. >Hopefully it will have markings on it to tell what its parameters are. Like >the 2-6-3 on the vacuum unit, and the 10 on the advance mechanism. But then >it is anybody's guess what the spring rates are controlling the advance >curve! > >It might be better to send out your current unit to get it rebuilt. BTW, >who is the guy that was listed here who does a good job rebuilding these >units including new vacuum units? >


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See what's new at http://www.aol.com >_______________________________________________ >thenicholls at verizon.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Sep 22 18:26:48 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 20:26:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] a day on the Cape Message-ID: <46F57A88.22598.99668C3@localhost> This morning Sharon and I loaded some lunch and ourselves into the Spitfire and pointed it southeast toward Cape Cod, Woods Hole to be specific. We both have past minor academic connections with Woods Hole, so we've spent many a relaxing day there just visiting. Today we met up with Kevin Thompson, one of the inventors of the Cape Cod British Car Club (http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org). Kevin claims to have a TR6 and a recently-acquired TR3, but after having met this fine gentleman three times now we have yet to see any hint of a British Car other some nice T-shirts. Nevertheless he treated us a wonderful Triumph-less day. Took us out in his boat, didn't he now, to tour the harbor and nearby islands. Kevin spent a few minutes fruitlessly harrasing the local fish population. We burned a few oogles over some fine sailboats too. Spied on some white herons and common cormorants. The weather was cool and breezy. Then Sharon and I spent a few hours walking the Falmouth-Woods Hole bike path. All in all it was a spectacular day. Thanks, Kevin. Of course, the whole point was to drive the Spitfire to the Cape, right? The Spitfire always amazes me how comfortable and at home it can be cruising the highway. Overdrive helps but the overall feel is just right at just about any speed. We spent much of the trip between 70 and 75, still the slowest car on the road. Every so often someone would blow by us by at least 20mph. Yow. Do those guys worry about their insurance bills? Whatever. We had more fun, I am sure of it! Getting there is only a small part of the reason for making a journey. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1021 - Release Date: 9/21/2007 2:02 PM From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Sep 22 21:31:43 2007 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 20:31:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 engine boggs down, correction ***** Message-ID: <001101c7fd92$433d4590$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Subject: TR6 engine boggs down > A lot to chew on for you guys, please!> > Car is 1970 TR6.> > Engine boggs under acceleration at about 3000 rpm, there is big change in > exhaust sound> > Known facts:> > History shows under 3000 miles over last 10 years, total miles 66680> > Gas tank looks new> > Inside valve cover and oil are very clean> > Engine starts excellent, even after sitting 1 week, no choke really needed > at 75 degrees air temp then some throttle needed to keep it running a minute > or so until smooth> > Engine idles very smooth> > Carb pistons when lifted manually feel even, smooth and drop even (when not > running)> > Carb airflow at idle is even (measured with UniSyn). > > Done prior to me:> > Carb PVC ports are plugged, valve cover hose goes to charcoal canister then > no-where> > *****Distributor has only 1 vacuum line on firewall side and looks like front one was > removed?> > I replaced fuel filter> > I replaced plugs, wires and cap, just because....no change> > The removed plugs are evenly colored lite brownish> > I have points and condenser next but really suspect one carb or fuel pump?> > I would like to fix running performance then crankcase emissions.> >Thank you > Regards,> > Bob From 6parts at charter.net Sat Sep 22 18:48:38 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 20:48:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 speedometer needle References: <002801c7fd1e$415eda50$6401a8c0@p4server> Message-ID: <009601c7fd7b$7b336900$8d86c518@alan> Thanks to all that responded. As luck would have it, I broke the pointer taking it off the parts speedometer,, so I then cemented the two broken needles, on the two speedo's, but I didn't like the look because I could still see the crack line. Good thing I had a third speedo I was saving for emergency's. It had a bad bezel, so I swaped that out and I'am good to go. Gained 10,000 miles in the process. Yes, if I had held the back spindle, I might have saved the pointer. Didn't see this message till the deed was done. Cheers Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Anthony Rhodes" To: ; <6parts at charter.net> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 9:41 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 speedometer needle > Wow, I wonder what made it break off?! > > The needle is press-fit on the spindle. BUT, it is sometimes terribly > hard to get off. See my repair monograph for general info. > > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rhodes/speedo.html > > However, I have had more thoughts since then on getting that darned > pointer off. Simply holding the "drag cup" and then twisting back and > forth on the pointer and pulling may actually move the entire spindle in > the cup. The cup is also just a press fit on the spindle! This may not > be good as it will move the cup toward/away from the magnets in relation > to the spindle. (I have been re-writing the monograph, but I have bad a > hard time finding the time!) > > So, how do you hold the SPINDLE securely when trying to pull off the > pointer. Well, you need to remove the frame, but how do you do that > without having already removed the face which requires removal of the > pointer? > > Well, loosening the 2 screws holding the face will allow it to be tipped > up without actually removing it. Then you can slide in a knife edge into > the slots of the screws holding the subframe to the frame to remove it. > Then you can separate parts and have access to the spindle. Then remove > the pointer and face. Service the rest of the works while you are there, > then reattach the subframe to the frame, attach the face, then the > pointer, then recalibrate the pointer. > > -Tony From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 22 19:10:33 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:10:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 engine boggs down, correction ***** In-Reply-To: <001101c7fd92$433d4590$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <001101c7fd92$433d4590$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <02ba01c7fd7e$8ab1e750$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > > A lot to chew on for you guys, please!> > > Car is 1970 TR6.> > > Engine boggs under acceleration at about 3000 rpm, there is > big change in > > exhaust sound> Bob, can you elaborate a bit more on what "boggs" means ? Does it only lose some power then eventually pull to redline or will it simply not accelerate past 3000 rpm ? If the latter, does it just hang at 3000 rpm or falter and drop off from there ? The first case is generally a mixture problem, commonly called a "flat spot". Second case is generally an ignition problem or possibly air flow (clogged air filter). Third case usually indicates fuel delivery problems. None of these are hard and fast rules, just general guidelines on where to start looking. > > Engine starts excellent, even after sitting 1 week, no > choke really needed That is suspicious in itself. Must be running very rich if it starts easily from cold with no choke. > > Carb PVC ports are plugged, valve cover hose goes to > charcoal canister I'm not sure of the original configuration of a 70 TR6 offhand, but you might have the wrong carbs anyway. If there are ports for the bowl vents (as my 71 Stag has), then they should not be plugged but either open to the air or the carbon canister. Also check that the vents through the face of the carbs are not dirty or blocked (eg by the wrong gasket to the air filter). > > *****Distributor has only 1 vacuum line on firewall side > and looks like > front one was > > removed?> Later TR6 only had one vacuum line, which was for vacuum retard. I would suggest verifying first whether the carb port is for advance or retard (a retard port will have vacuum at idle, an advance port will not); and then whether the unit on the dizzy is configured for advance or retard. (Applying vacuum to a retard capsule will lower idle rpm, applying to advance capsule will increase idle rpm.) Getting the advance/retard mixed up can cause strange drivability problems ... if in doubt, just disconnect and cap while you solve the other problems. Many of the books are wrong about how to set timing ... if you have the line disconnected, the initial timing should be set to the 'static' value given in the book, which is around 10 or 12 degrees before TDC. The 4 ATDC figure only applies when the retard capsule is connected and operating. Randall From dorpaul at negia.net Sat Sep 22 19:53:20 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 21:53:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] one shorter grose jet Message-ID: <007801c7fd84$86734480$9f0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've got a small collection of used grose jets. I think i'd prefer to use the solid round ones because of folk's horror stories. However, the two of those in my collection are of different lengths and my favorite one of those "stands proud" of the little brass tower about 1/8" when it is fully seated and upside down.. It's my favorite cause it allows the silver arm/lever (the thing you bend) to remain fairly straight from pin to float. The other solid grose jet is flush with the bottom of the 'tower' when seated and upside down. Because of this, the silver arm/lever needs to be turned in several directions on it's way to the float. I have an idea it's the wrong lever length, in fact, Moss shows two types: one for original lids and one for newer lids. I hope this list will provide me with verifacation of the lever needed. I don't know what else might different between the original and new lids. In fact, I don't know if these are the original SU H6's- perhaps someone can tell me what to look for? I also might have those multi-sided (like maltese falcon shape) grose jets and two of the towers with metal balls 'floating'-at-the-top type grose jets. But like I said, I may need to order another one of these so that the metal lever is fairly straight. I don't know of a reason to order both 'brand-new' grose jets because these things really haven't seen wear. I think I have also seen a small amount of rust on the cadmium arms/levers. Beyond just rubbing/scrubbing/brushing this rust off, is there anything else I should do? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A TS71813L From triumph66 at gmail.com Sat Sep 22 21:11:31 2007 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 23:11:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 tire recommendations? In-Reply-To: <20070920144948.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.06dc09d71e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> References: <20070920144948.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.06dc09d71e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Message-ID: Actually they are made in Holland were the Vredestein is based. I run them, too. Great tires. I run them on all my cars. You might be confusing them with Nokian tires that are indeed Scandanavian (Helsinki, Finland), Nokian and the company's rubber business were the forerunner to the Nokia cell phones. Nokian does, as any nothern-tier resident will attest, make great snow tires. Page 2 of Nokian's 2006 annual report annual sports a nice b/w of an MGA. http://www.nokiantyres.com/files/nkr/Vuosikertomukset_eng/NR_vsk_2006_eng_netti.pdf HTH, Ted On 9/20/07, ray at raysmg.com wrote: > > I'm running Vredestein; from Coker...two day delivery. Made in Norway, > looks good, good tread pattern, and a good price...$85/tire ($15/tire > for shipping). It's a 40,000 mile tire. I've been very happy with them > on my TR3. > > Ray > Ray McCaleb > ray at raysmg.com > http://www.raysmg.com -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO From ray at raysmg.com Sun Sep 23 07:31:02 2007 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 06:31:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 tire recommendations? Message-ID: <20070923063102.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.3b0d181890.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Thanks for the correction, Ted, you are correct that Vreds are made in Holland, and have been since 1946. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tire recommendations? From: Ted Date: Sat, September 22, 2007 11:11 pm To: "ray at raysmg.com" Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Actually they are made in Holland were the Vredestein is based. I run them, too. Great tires. I run them on all my cars. You might be confusing them with Nokian tires that are indeed Scandanavian (Helsinki, Finland), Nokian and the company's rubber business were the forerunner to the Nokia cell phones. Nokian does, as any nothern-tier resident will attest, make great snow tires. Page 2 of Nokian's 2006 annual report annual sports a nice b/w of an MGA. http://www.nokiantyres.com/files/nkr/Vuosikertomukset_eng/NR_vsk_2006_eng_netti.pdf HTH, Ted On 9/20/07, ray at raysmg.com wrote: I'm running Vredestein; from Coker...two day delivery. Made in Norway, looks good, good tread pattern, and a good price...$85/tire ($15/tire for shipping). It's a 40,000 mile tire. I've been very happy with them on my TR3. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Sep 23 07:35:52 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:35:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] re New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Message-ID: <092320071335.14385.46F66BB8000891CE0000383122165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > He restored Dave's TR4-A dizzy and vacuum (last year) and they came out great > - arrived looking brand new and with a computer printout of curve behavior > 'before' & 'after'. Dave says his motor runs beautifully. I think it was under > $150. > You might also want to check out Fred Thomas here on the List. I think he's offering rebuilt dizzies for the TR3's for about $70. NFI. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From steven at newellboys.com Sun Sep 23 08:02:51 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 07:02:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Maintenance book. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46F6720B.80607@newellboys.com> tom white wrote: >I have been considering the purchase of a Jag XJ-S. In my research I found a >free book at www.jaglovers.com, which is downloadable for free, ... a >comprehensive anthology of almost everything that can go wrong with the car. >The book is 736 pages long. > >Why doesn't someone on this list (Randall) author a similar work for >Triumphs? > If you could search the archives for all of Randall's posts, I think you'd find he's already authored such a book. :) Steven Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 etc. From dkspence at telus.net Sun Sep 23 11:25:41 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 11:25:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 Master cylinder leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <16C51CEC-22AD-4EE0-976A-FB02B8991591@telus.net> Popped out to the garage this am to discover the back chamber in my MC empty. This unit was rebuilt a tear ago. There is fluid on the MC. Appears to be coming from under the reservoir. What are the chances I have only a failed seal? Anything else that would cause fluif to leak down from the reservoir onto the cylinder? TIA Don From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 23 11:36:26 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 10:36:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] one shorter grose jet In-Reply-To: <007801c7fd84$86734480$9f0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070923173529.DDQZ28177.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > I've got a small collection of used grose jets. I think i'd > prefer to use the solid round ones because of folk's horror > stories. Paul, I think you might be a little confused about the term "Grose Jet". That is a brand name for a specific type of redesign of the float valve; they aren't all called "grose jets". > The other solid grose jet is flush with the bottom of the > 'tower' when seated and upside down. Because of this, the > silver arm/lever needs to be turned in several directions on > it's way to the float. I have an idea it's the wrong lever Yup, not the right valve. Don't use that one. > I don't know what > else might different between the original and new lids. I'm not entirely sure what that line means, but it might be that they are talking about the different versions of original SU lids. There were at least two different versions used on the TR3, one with push-on fuel fittings and one with banjo fittings. I think early TR2 might have been different as well. > two of the towers with metal balls > 'floating'-at-the-top type grose jets. Those are the only real "Grose Jets". > I think I have also seen a small amount of rust on the > cadmium arms/levers. Beyond just rubbing/scrubbing/brushing > this rust off, is there anything else I should do? I just left mine rusty. Knock off any loose stuff, so it can't fall into the fuel, but a little surface rust won't hurt anything. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 23 11:59:26 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:59:26 EDT Subject: [TR] one shorter grose jet Message-ID: In a message dated 9/23/2007 10:36:29 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Paul, I think you might be a little confused about the term "Grose Jet". That is a brand name for a specific type of redesign of the float valve; they aren't all called "grose jets". I've been burned by that also. Many people think if it has a ball in it, its a grose jet (no matter which end the ball is on!). Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Sep 23 13:07:19 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:07:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] one shorter grose jet References: Message-ID: <00a501c7fe14$f8b98fa0$9f0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Okay, time for a name correction. Formally 'grose jet' now becomes 'needle and seat assembly'? Also, where as one type of 'needle' was a 'grose jet'? Another needle type is solid? (preferred by some due to smaller % of problems?) Yet another type is multi-sided (is this the "Vitron Tip")? My collection has both brass and silver tips. What originally came on the carbs? Were the improved tips really an improvement? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3a From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 23 13:53:55 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:53:55 EDT Subject: [TR] one shorter grose jet Message-ID: One the great experts I know of, Joe Curto says neither one is necessarily superior to the other. He doesn't recommend oneover the other. Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From darrellw at ipns.com Sun Sep 23 14:44:12 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:44:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Setting static advance with Pertronix ignitor Message-ID: <1CFD46DA-FC92-4C97-A3E0-AA3854D1A3A7@ipns.com> Hi, Can one use a test light the same way that you do with a points system with a Pertronix system? There isn't any markings on the sensor/pickup to work off of. Can an audible continuity tester be use as well? Thanks, Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From Btmfdchn at aol.com Sun Sep 23 18:27:01 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 20:27:01 EDT Subject: [TR] re New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/22/2007 5:01:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: http://www.advanceddistributors.com/ Jeff at Paltech really recommends him. I am sending my 72's off to him this winter. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Greetings... I've had 2 done by him with great results. Good price also. TJ ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 23 18:42:30 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 17:42:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Setting static advance with Pertronix ignitor In-Reply-To: <1CFD46DA-FC92-4C97-A3E0-AA3854D1A3A7@ipns.com> Message-ID: <20070924004133.QKNP23505.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Can one use a test light the same way that you do with a > points system with a Pertronix system? There isn't any > markings on the sensor/pickup to work off of. Although I can't find the instructions that I think said so; I'm pretty sure the answer is yes. The Ignitor unit acts pretty much exactly like points. > Can an audible > continuity tester be use as well? Not so sure about that one; probably depends on the tester. I would expect that there is some voltage drop through the Ignitor even when it's "closed", so the question is whether your tester considers that 'continuity' or not. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 23 18:43:07 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 20:43:07 EDT Subject: [TR] re New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Message-ID: Also might take a look at _http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/ee/8240/Distributor%2025D4%20New_ (http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/ee/8240/Distributor%2025D4%20New) and _www.distributordoctor.com/_ (http://www.distributordoctor.com/) best, Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 23 19:00:48 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 18:00:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] one shorter grose jet In-Reply-To: <00a501c7fe14$f8b98fa0$9f0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070924005951.RIRM23505.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Also, where as one type of 'needle' was a 'grose jet'? The Grose Jet uses balls instead of needles. > Another needle type is solid? (preferred by some due to > smaller % of > problems?) > Yet another type is multi-sided (is this the "Vitron Tip")? "Viton" is a kind of synthetic rubber, usually black. > My collection has both brass and silver tips. No Viton then. > What originally came on the carbs? I believe originals were simple round brass. > Were the improved tips > really an improvement? IMO, not enough to worry about. I actively dislike Grose Jets as I've seen them cause more problems than they solve; but all the others seem pretty much equivalent as far as reliability and longevity are concerned. The ones with the spring-loaded plunger inside the "needle" seem like they might do a better job of controlling fuel level under vibration and whatnot, but I can't say I've seen any difference in practice. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 23 19:05:39 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 21:05:39 EDT Subject: [TR] one shorter grose jet Message-ID: In a message dated 9/23/2007 6:01:00 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: The Grose Jet uses balls instead of needles. There are other jets which also use balls, but are totally different than Grose jets.The balls in Grose jets are used to seal the flow. These others are not-the ball bears on the lever. Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From bglazier at stny.rr.com Sun Sep 23 19:08:04 2007 From: bglazier at stny.rr.com (Bruce Glazier) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 21:08:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3a wheels Message-ID: Does anyone know a source for TR3a wheels. I can find wire wheels but not the standard wheels. To og my rims are bent and I need replacements. From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 23 19:13:16 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 21:13:16 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3a wheels Message-ID: About 15 years ago I had mine straightened (Western Wheel in LA?) Cheap too. Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dougfr at comcast.net Sun Sep 23 20:10:25 2007 From: dougfr at comcast.net (Doug) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 19:10:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Body-Off Return Message-ID: <008601c7fe50$129bfd00$6401a8c0@DOUG> I'm am about to lower the body of my 1969 TR6 to the frame w/engine, tranny and all suspension parts attached to the frame. The doors and windscreen were removed during painting of the body. Other than that, only the hood and front fenders were removed. I have purchased the the body mounting kit from TRF - no problems there. It's been about 8 years since the body came off the frame and I have forgotten just what order to place some of the bits in. I understand that you start from the front of the car and work you way back. The problem is that some of the spacers are aluminum, some thick rubber/canvas pads and some thin rubber/canvas and nowhere does it show the order when some spacers are to be used below the floor pan or above. Where might I find some information on the procedure for re-mounting the frame to the body? TTFN, Doug Fraser 1969 TR6 CC25305LO From DLylis at aol.com Sun Sep 23 20:34:47 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 22:34:47 EDT Subject: [TR] Body-Off Return Message-ID: A Moss catalogue will give you some guidance, or TRF parts manual Volume 2 Page 350 - 351. That is the green manual. If you have trouble locating it post back and I will scan it and post it. I probably will not be able to get to it for 3 or 4 days though. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Sun Sep 23 21:18:34 2007 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 23:18:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3a wheels References: Message-ID: There is a set of 4 on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Set-of-4-Triumph-TR4-TR6-TR3-OEM-15-by-4-Steel-Wheels_W0QQitemZ330168164295QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330168164295 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 23 21:25:28 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 20:25:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Body-Off Return In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070924032431.LFOC28177.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > A Moss catalogue will give you some guidance, or TRF parts > manual Volume 2 Page 350 - 351. That is the green manual. > If you have trouble locating it post back and I will scan it > and post it. Available on TRF's web site : http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6greenbook/40.php Randall From frogeye at swcp.com Fri Sep 21 14:35:43 2007 From: frogeye at swcp.com (david porter) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 14:35:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <200709212035.l8LKZpZr003069@ame7.swcp.com> Hi Triumph owners and wanna bees. I snuck over from the Healey list to let any serious buyers know that I have a nearly complete driver for sale here in NM. Please reply to frogeye at swcp.com The car belonged to an older couple who drove it for 10 years at which point the husband decided to restore the chassis. So as that was being done and finished (mostly) he contracted cancer and passed away. Another friend of his family continued to piece the car back together, but he became ill and was unable to finish it. It has been sitting for about 6 years. The wife contacted me. I explained that I'd been badly burned in a shop explosion and didn't have any income. Nevertheless (from what I'd been told as to its condition) I made an offer, urging her to advertise the car for a better offer. Well, 2 weeks later she called and accepted my offer. I sent a check and a truck and as usual it wasn't nearly the car it was described as being. I reinstalled all major components (mechanically speaking) and it runs well and the gear box seems fine. The brakes and clutch are now working. Instruments are functional (not sure about temp. gauge yet). Have not done anything with electrics yet, as the nose is still off the car. There is a short longitudinal crack under the L door sill that could be easily repaired. Floors are intact but some surface rust there from the 6 year sit. Basically it's a decent complete car with its years starting to show. Currently the body is just sitting on the chassis (not bolted down) I'll either finish that or not depending on whether the buyer wants to do a proper restoration them selves or have me do the work. It may have a TR4 engine, but is fitted with the correct SU carbs (just rebuilt) It has disc wheels with old 5.50 bias ply tires. Top is serviceable and side curtains are in the boot. Leather seats are in the shed right now but can be used as is. Chrome is usual for a car of this vintage, ditto glass. Paint job is rough, but might clean up with an aggressive buffing.(nah) There are a couple of small dings in the body work. That's pretty much the story. I want $7000.00 OBNO for the car as it sits. If you want me to do the restoration or other work I charge $70/ hour. The car is in Albuquerque. It was a CO. car, but now titled in NM. PS I spent most of the weekend going through the car. Body is now bolted down. There is some rust on the front left edge of the transmission tunnel and a front corner of the battery box. Ill try to get the nose bolted on today. I checked the numbers and it looks now to be a 1958 fitted with an early TR4 engine. If it had decent (safe) tires Id say it could be driven to wherever you are. Thanks, Dave PS temp gauge and fuel gauge inop. Pictures available to serious buyers. Im still using dial up and it takes way too much time to send to everyone who is no more than curious. Thanks! Sorry if this shows up multiple times...Mark's new rules are, well new... No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1021 - Release Date: 9/21/2007 2:02 PM From efrenken at lctax.de Mon Sep 24 05:15:38 2007 From: efrenken at lctax.de (Frenken, Eric) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:15:38 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance In-Reply-To: <092120071943.25131.46F41EF80005955A0000622B2200763692030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> References: <092120071943.25131.46F41EF80005955A0000622B2200763692030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7E2@spottswoode.lctax.ads> Tony and all, when using Marcel Chichak's list you should be aware of the continuous faultiness of this list. I've told him more than once of these faults and he said he'll correct the list, as soon as his time permits, and that this will most likely not be in the near future. Eric http://brits-n-pieces.com ... I saw the large listing of the Lucas dizzies by Chichak. It looks as if he had access to some Lucas documents for this info. It looks pretty reliable to me. ... -Tony Hinweise: 1. Lohr + Company GmbH WirtschaftsprC www.lctax.de [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s] From JStasyszen at odmhsas.org Mon Sep 24 08:56:36 2007 From: JStasyszen at odmhsas.org (Stasyszen, Jerry) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:56:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] 77 Spitfire In-Reply-To: <20070924032431.LFOC28177.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070924032431.LFOC28177.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: I am parting out a 77 Spitfire. I removed the engine and trans but the rest remains. The body if pretty straight except that it was wrecked but all the damaged arteas have been meticulously removed. I have new body parts to for the areas that were cut out. The bonnet has some beginning rust but the floors are in great shape. This would be a nice buildable car. I just don't have the time or a mig to weld the body parts back together. If anyone is interested in parts then email me off list or call 405-672-9707 in Oklahoma City. Thanks Jerry Stasyszen 405-672-9707 Jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net jstasyszen at odmhsas.org From dougfr at comcast.net Mon Sep 24 10:13:13 2007 From: dougfr at comcast.net (Doug) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:13:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Body-Off Return Response Message-ID: <001001c7fec5$cf8d39e0$6401a8c0@DOUG> Thanks for the response to date. I am a little beyond that in that I have the body mounting kit per TRF and I have the TRF book, Plate FA, which shows the order that the parts go at each location. What Plate FA does not show, for instance, is for the front mounting kit, there are four thin rubber/canvas pads - two per side. (Plate number FA1, Part Nbr. 601994) Does one rubber pad go below the fender and one above? This seems like a small point but while reading 'Practical Classics & Car Restorer - Triumph TR6 Restoration' they talk about shimming at various points to ensure proper door spacing and ultimately being able to use the Rear Mounting Kit. Seems some TR6 frames can get hogged-backed. 'Practical Classics & Car Restorer' says that you start at the front of the car and work with the various mounting kits going aft. Maybe I'm sweating the small stuff as I only have the front mounting kit loosely installed yet and hope to have good luck with the door spacing (and door window to windscreen spacing) in the next day or two. Doug Fraser 69 TR6 - CC25304LO Sammamish, WA From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Sep 24 11:44:12 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:44:12 EDT Subject: [TR] Bad Starter? Message-ID: Guys, Woe is Me! Again! The Six is occasionally pegging the amp gauge to full discharge when I turn the key. When this occurs the starter does not turn. The amp gauge also stays discharged for a moment after the key is turned off. This is intermittent with good starts in between. I have checked the battery cables and they look OK. I am thinking I have a dead short or flat spot in the starter. What say the List? Thank You Guys, Darrell ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Mon Sep 24 11:53:01 2007 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:53:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bad Starter? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5FA70265-F76E-4D07-9DF2-8C9883ED0957@mindspring.com> Have you checked to see if it is full of chocolate? Ashford Little 6-Pack Membership Secretary From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 24 12:06:08 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 11:06:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance In-Reply-To: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7E2@spottswoode.lctax.ads> References: <092120071943.25131.46F41EF80005955A0000622B2200763692030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7E2@spottswoode.lctax.ads> Message-ID: <038901c7fed5$9569b350$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > when using Marcel Chichak's list you should be aware of the > continuous faultiness of this list. Eric, can you point out some of the mistakes, please ? Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 24 12:18:18 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 11:18:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bad Starter? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <038a01c7fed7$4842a760$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Woe is Me! Again! The Six is occasionally pegging the amp > gauge to full > discharge when I turn the key. When this occurs the starter > does not turn. The > amp gauge also stays discharged for a moment after the key is > turned off. This > is intermittent with good starts in between. I have checked > the battery > cables and they look OK. > I am thinking I have a dead short or flat spot in the > starter. The starter motor draws current directly from the battery rather than through the ammeter (as it's normal current draw is far beyond what the ammeter can indicate or carry). So, I think you must have an intermittent short outside the starter motor (although it might possibly be inside the starter solenoid on top of the starter). Take a look at the area where the white/red wire (which is from the ignition switch) connects to the starter solenoid. Check for anything that might short, like cracked insulation or stray wires. Not necessarily where the problem is, but it's a good place to start, IMO. Randall From kthompson at whoi.edu Mon Sep 24 12:17:47 2007 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 14:17:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bad Starter? Message-ID: <46F7FF4B.9060507@whoi.edu> Darrell, The little voices in my head keep whispering....."ground strap"..in response to your question. This would be the ground from your motor to the frame. I won't go into what the other voices are telling me. Cheers, Kevin T Cape Cod, Ma. Darrell said.....in a very concerned way.... Guys, Woe is Me! Again! The Six is occasionally pegging the amp gauge to full discharge when I turn the key. When this occurs the starter does not turn. The amp gauge also stays discharged for a moment after the key is turned off. This is intermittent with good starts in between. I have checked the battery cables and they look OK. I am thinking I have a dead short or flat spot in the starter. What say the List? Thank You Guys, Darrell From rgperry at earthlink.net Mon Sep 24 12:34:52 2007 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:34:52 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] Bad Starter? Message-ID: <14544137.1190658892803.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Darrell, I just went through this exact same intermittent problem. In my case it was the starter solenoid. The large copper contacts inside the solenoid between the large lugs were slightly pitted causing a drop in amperage. I took apart the solenoid and filed the copper bar contacts flat again and reassembled the solenoid. Works every time now! One has to unsolder the coil connections on the cover to get it apart after taking the screws out. Greg Perry >I am thinking I have a dead short or flat spot in the starter. What say the >List? >Thank You Guys, >Darrell From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Sep 24 12:41:08 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 14:41:08 EDT Subject: [TR] Bad Starter? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/24/2007 12:53:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > Have you checked to see if it is full of chocolate? > > No Ashford I did not. Have to take another look. I did notice a big brown spot on the side of the block though. I think it was from that 6-PACK of Hershey Bars I was munching on when I was checking out the ground strap last Friday. Possibly smeared a bunch on the starter connections. Good Trials, Good Time, Huh? Cheers, Darrell ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dkspence at telus.net Mon Sep 24 12:59:16 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 12:59:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 210 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Eric What are the faults? Can you provide the correct info? Thanks Don On 24-Sep-07, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Tony and all, > > when using Marcel Chichak's list you should be aware of the continuous > faultiness of this list. I've told him more than once of these > faults and he > said he'll correct the list, as soon as his time permits, and that > this will > most likely not be in the near future. > > Eric > http://brits-n-pieces.com > > > ... > I saw the large listing of the Lucas dizzies by Chichak. It looks > as if he > had access to some Lucas documents for this info. It looks pretty > reliable > to me. > ... > -Tony From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 24 13:13:37 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 15:13:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bad Starter? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I don't think the starter current goes through the ammeter. Does it? Current to the control circuit of the starter solenoid does. John >Guys, >Woe is Me! Again! The Six is occasionally pegging the amp gauge to full >discharge when I turn the key. When this occurs the starter does not turn. > The >amp gauge also stays discharged for a moment after the key is turned off. >This >is intermittent with good starts in between. I have checked the battery >cables and they look OK. >I am thinking I have a dead short or flat spot in the starter. What say >the >List? >Thank You Guys, >Darrell From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Sep 24 13:30:38 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 15:30:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 210 References: Message-ID: <002c01c7fee1$637aaff0$60107247@fred8kwiskhcfu> He sure did have a lot of "LUCAS" service bulletins made available to him, and care to guess whom furnished them to him and never received any back, not even a "Thank You", "FT" ========================================================================================================== >> >> Tony and all, >> >> when using Marcel Chichak's list you should be aware of the continuous >> faultiness of this list. I've told him more than once of these >> faults and he >> said he'll correct the list, as soon as his time permits, and that >> this will >> most likely not be in the near future. >> >> Eric >> http://brits-n-pieces.com >> >> >> ... >> I saw the large listing of the Lucas dizzies by Chichak. It looks >> as if he >> had access to some Lucas documents for this info. It looks pretty >> reliable >> to me. >> ... >> -Tony > _______________________________________________ > frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From rgperry at earthlink.net Mon Sep 24 13:52:17 2007 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 14:52:17 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] Bad Starter? Message-ID: <22688365.1190663537179.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Clearification: The drop in amperage refers to the starter motor. -----Original Message----- >From: Greg Perry >Sent: Sep 24, 2007 1:34 PM >To: TR250Driver at aol.com, triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] Bad Starter? > >Darrell, > >I just went through this exact same intermittent problem. In my case it was the >starter solenoid. The large copper contacts inside the solenoid between the large >lugs were slightly pitted causing a drop in amperage. I took apart the solenoid >and filed the copper bar contacts flat again and reassembled the solenoid. Works >every time now! One has to unsolder the coil connections on the cover to get it >apart after taking the screws out. > >Greg Perry > > >>I am thinking I have a dead short or flat spot in the starter. What say the >>List? >>Thank You Guys, >>Darrell >_______________________________________________ >rgperry at earthlink.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From spamiam at comcast.net Mon Sep 24 16:04:51 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 22:04:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] Bad Starter? Message-ID: <092420072204.28317.46F834830008C13700006E9D2200750438030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Darrell, The starter does not draw power thru the ammeter, so if the ammeter reads a huge discharge, it is not the starter itself. It is something that is activated when turning the ignition switch all the way to "start". It oculd be the starter solenoid, I suppose. It could be a short inside the ignition switch. It would seem to have to be something like that. -Tony -------------- Original message -------------- > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:44:12 EDT > From: TR250Driver at aol.com > Subject: [TR] Bad Starter? > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Guys, > Woe is Me! Again! The Six is occasionally pegging the amp gauge to full > discharge when I turn the key. When this occurs the starter does not turn. The > amp gauge also stays discharged for a moment after the key is turned off. This > is intermittent with good starts in between. I have checked the battery > cables and they look OK. > I am thinking I have a dead short or flat spot in the starter. What say the > List? > Thank You Guys, > Darrell From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Mon Sep 24 19:19:57 2007 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 21:19:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Open Letter to Kai Radicke, dba Wishbone Classics Message-ID: <380-22007922511957453@earthlink.net> Dear Kai Radicke, On December 2, 1996, I entrusted you with my TR6 engine, thousands of dollars worth of parts, and a check for three thousand dollars. Now, nearly ten months later, you have stopped communicating with me, though you have clearly been updating your phone messages and selling things on eBay. I have sent you numerous email messages over the last several weeks. I have also repeatedly called and sometimes left messages at the number for Wishbone Classics. I have even contacted you through eBay, where I see you are still quite active selling parts (79 auctions since September 9!). I have not heard a thing from you since July 12. If you or someone dear to you has suffered some misfortune, I am sorry. If you offer me a brief explanation of the events that have befallen you, I will make every attempt to find a mutually acceptable accommodation. If, however, you fail to contact me this coming week, I will proceed with efforts to recover my parts, money and unspecified damages. My recovery may take the form of civil litigation, criminal charges, or both. Personally, I am very sad to be writing these words. I trusted you with the restoration of an engine that I first rebuilt in 1981. I've spent most of my budget for the TR6 restoration already, and if I cannot recover my property, I can't finish. This is exactly the sort of fiasco that drives people out of the old car hobby. Sincerely, Tomislav Marincic http://www.triumphowners.com/735 From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Tue Sep 25 04:45:28 2007 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 06:45:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Open Letter to Kai Radicke, dba Wishbone Classics Message-ID: <380-220079225104528890@earthlink.net> Dick, Thanks. No, I'm living in the past. 2006. Tom > [Original Message] > From: > To: > Date: 9/25/2007 2:02:27 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Open Letter to Kai Radicke, dba Wishbone Classics > > TM---I'm sure you didn't mean "1996". > > DT > > Sender: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net From: > tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net(Tomislav Marincic) Date: Mon, Sep 24, > 2007, 9:19pm (PDT+3) To: 6pack at autox.team.net (6pack), > triumphs at autox.team.net (triumphs list) Subject: [6pack] Open Letter to > Kai Radicke, dba Wishbone Classics > > Dear Kai Radicke, > On December 2, 1996, I entrusted you with my From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Sep 25 05:18:25 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 07:18:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] NEW brake master cylinder failure anyone? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000a01c7ff65$cd9014a0$210110ac@bobspc> The email below was sent to the 6 Pack list and I'm sharing it with the Triumph List. I put a new Lucas MC in my car back in April and it has a very slight "leak" at the reservoir seam. About once a week I have to wipe it off, but there hasn't been enough leakage to add fluid yet. None the less....it does leak. I'm using Castrol GT/LMA Dot 3/4. Winter project #1 is a brake system rebuild. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Pimento73 at aol.com Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 11:32 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] NEW brake master cylinder failure anyone? I've made this statement several times over the past 2 weeks: "My NEW TR6 brake master cylinder is leaking about 5 times faster than the old one was" and I'm now up to about 3 responses of "ME TOO" So I'd like to take a quick poll: If you bought a NEW TR6 brake master cylinder within the past year (these, unlike the originals, have "LUCAS" cast on the side) AND it has failed - please holler "ME TOO" and say where its leaking and what brake fluid you were using. So far I've got 1 leaking thru a crack in the underside of the reservoir and the rest leaking past the piston down the front of, or into, the servo - 2 DOT 5 and 2 DOT 3. Thanks, Jack Mc PS - meanwhile I've sent my original off to be resleeved No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 9/24/2007 7:09 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 25 15:02:51 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 14:02:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: TR6 observed for sale in Pasadena Message-ID: <040b01c7ffb7$6f5b2210$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Anyone looking for a TR6 ? Pasadena, CA is a bit of a hike for me, but I could possibly take a look if someone is really interested. Randall -----Original Message----- last week a member called me and told me about a TR6 for sale in Pasadena.....here's the info if anyone is interested! this is all I know, so call number below for more info! ================================== 1973 green TR6 faded paint $6500 monza exhaust (?) poss OD (?) sits level/straight driver's rocker panel - rust Foray Auto 626/796-1600 1273 E Walnut Pasadena (next to Pasadena British Motors) From adcronin at ameritech.net Tue Sep 25 15:12:26 2007 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 14:12:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Rebuild Rocker Assembly ? In-Reply-To: <002d01c7fd1f$0431bb10$6401a8c0@p4server> Message-ID: <747944.7637.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Bob Sarama rebuilt my dist. and recurved it and checked out the advance as well with a neet Advance curve chart/printout or all advance settings--at about half the BPNW price. You can contact him at lucasdistributors at yahoo.com Anthony Rhodes wrote: Jeff, I have been wondering the same thing about those new dizzies. You saw my previous questions about ignition advance curves... Not all 25D4 units are the same. Not at all! And, it almost appears that there is ONE new unit that applies to all 25D4 applications. I am not sure that this is actually true, but I am very suspicious. But for that price, it might not be bad to order one then look at it. Hopefully it will have markings on it to tell what its parameters are. Like the 2-6-3 on the vacuum unit, and the 10 on the advance mechanism. But then it is anybody's guess what the spring rates are controlling the advance curve! It might be better to send out your current unit to get it rebuilt. BTW, who is the guy that was listed here who does a good job rebuilding these units including new vacuum units? -Tony ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 18:28:40 -0700 > From: Jeffrey Barteet > Subject: [TR] New Distributor for TR 2-4 ? Rebuild Rocker Assembly ? > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <46F46FC8.8020607 at mrl.ucsb.edu> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Hi, Folks, > > Long time no post! > > I see where British Parts Northwest ( http://www.bpnorthwest.com ) has > this new 25D4 distributor for $145. It's a drop in replacement for TR > 3-4a and includes everything except for the dizzy cap. > > Almost seems too good to be true. ( Danger, Will Robinson!) I'm not sure > if if you could have your original dizzy recurved for that. Anyone tried > it? > > Is it a Lucas item ? If it IS a Lucas item, is that good or bad? > > Happy Motoring! > > -jeffrey _______________________________________________ adcronin at ameritech.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Sep 25 18:11:56 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 20:11:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise Message-ID: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost> Just when I thought it was safe to put the wrenches away... My Spitfire has a new sound. When I turn a corner at anything more than walking speed I hear a clunk clunk clunk, maybe 3 to 5 clunks right behind me which sound like something bouncing across a metallic floor or swinging against a metallic wall. Except there isn't anything to swing or bounce, nothing loose underneath nor under the spare tire. I fully expect one or more of you to say it is something come loose in the gas tank. So what would it likely be? A filter perhaps? Is it serious? I don't relish the idea of pulling the tank, or even just pulling a cover off. Tanks in advance, Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Sep 25 18:12:44 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 20:12:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise In-Reply-To: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost> References: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost> Message-ID: <200709252012.45348.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 25 September 2007 08:11 pm, Jim Muller wrote: > Just when I thought it was safe to put the wrenches away... > > My Spitfire has a new sound. When I turn a corner at anything more > than walking speed I hear a clunk clunk clunk, maybe 3 to 5 clunks > right behind me which sound like something bouncing across a metallic > floor or swinging against a metallic wall. Except there isn't > anything to swing or bounce, nothing loose underneath nor under the > spare tire. > > I fully expect one or more of you to say it is something come loose > in the gas tank. So what would it likely be? A filter perhaps? Is > it serious? > > I don't relish the idea of pulling the tank, or even just pulling a > cover off. > > Tanks in advance, > > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com Jim, It has never happened to me but could it be possible that one of the baffles came un welded inside the tank? Dont see how this could happen unless rust is at work somehow. There couldnt be enough vibration to cause one of those plates to loosen at least not without ripping a hole in the tank skin. Is the gas gauge still working? Could be the sender float. Did someone put a golf ball or other foreign object in the tank? Bob From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Sep 25 18:52:26 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 20:52:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise In-Reply-To: <200709252012.45348.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost> Message-ID: <46F9750A.14955.18D7CE7@localhost> Thanks for the quick repsonse, Bob. On 25 Sep 2007 at 20:12, Bob Labuz wrote: > There couldnt be enough vibration to cause one of those plates > to loosen at least not without ripping a hole in the tank skin. Ah, maybe those 1.8g turns I took going around the Bourne rotary coming home from Cape Cod last weekend? > Is the gas gauge still working? I believe so. The guage has had a peculiar behavior for a while but I think it still works the same way it did. [It reads lower than it should as the fule level drops but reads correct when the tank is full. I would think a bad float would read low with full tank too. It did this once before but when I cleaned all the lectrical terminals it seemed to read okay again. So I've interpreted it as lectrical. Anyway, it seems to be the same now as it was last week.] > Did someone put a golf ball or other foreign object in the tank? Hmmmmmmm. When I got gas on the way to the Cape the non-drip spout seemed to hang up in the cap, and when I pulled it out it kept dribbling gas like a runny nose. I wonder if something from the gas nozzle fell off into the tank! Tanks again. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Tue Sep 25 20:27:21 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 22:27:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise References: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DB3B@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Speaking of new noises; there is a new noise in my home too. We have a nephew with us for the year enrolled in some ponsy school with radical ideas that the young need an education involving more than the history of Sodom and standing duty as a toast rack for the older students. Imagine my joy at coming through the front door after a long day at the office spent begging bankers for money only to be greeted by the hideous sounds of a wild jackass in heat. Braying and gasping loudly, it went on for a considerable time, clearly in the depths of some fit of anguish and despair. "What is that ghastly noise?" thought I; followed by "How did he get the beast through the door?" Finally, the awful realisation struck, "Ye gods, they've given him a trombone!". There is a corner in hell for music teachers who would send a 12-year old home with a trombone, no book and the blithe instructions to "experiment". It is a deep corner; one past levels yet plumbed by miners or deep ocean explorers, but it is there. And so there he sits, banished to the farthest corner of the house, blatting away with all the musical quality of a TR6 running on 4 cylinders with a loose distributor cap. In desperation, I told him to massacre "Mary had a little lamb" to at least add some regularity and predictability to my torment. It's a fine point of discussion, that visitors to the dentist's chair know well, as to whether it is better to know the pain is coming, or have it sneak upon you hissing and shrieking all unforeseen. At least with regularity, one can pour one's whisky into a glass without trembling in anticipation. One can time the unmanly sobs to be covered by the dolourous honking. I go now to the garage to listen to the Triumph's rattling valves and to mumble and gnash my teeth over having had to miss my Triumph club's meeting to supervise the ruination of tranquility in my home. Mark 1972 TR6 P.S. Actually, the kid's not half bad what with no instructions and having to play with 2 pairs of socks and a washcloth stuffed deep in maw of the dreadful machine. ________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net on behalf of Jim Muller Sent: Tue 25/09/2007 8:11 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise Just when I thought it was safe to put the wrenches away... My Spitfire has a new sound. When I turn a corner at anything more than walking speed I hear a clunk clunk clunk, maybe 3 to 5 clunks right behind me which sound like something bouncing across a metallic floor or swinging against a metallic wall. Except there isn't anything to swing or bounce, nothing loose underneath nor under the spare tire. I fully expect one or more of you to say it is something come loose in the gas tank. So what would it likely be? A filter perhaps? Is it serious? I don't relish the idea of pulling the tank, or even just pulling a cover off. Tanks in advance, Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Sep 25 20:31:19 2007 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 20:31:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fall in the Rockies Message-ID: <000801c7ffe5$54bacb30$f950464b@rolofson> BlankSaw a dark green TR6 going south on CO Highway 119 (the Peak-to-Peak Highway) on Sunday afternoon...anyone on the list? Beautiful fall colors since the Aspen started to turn in the high country of Colorado. Stopped in Nederland and let the wife shop for stained glass. Lots of that going on with husbands being dragged along but it was reassuring to see 30 yo guys lust after a LBC and know that there will be a market for TRs for a few years to come. Other than a need to tighten the glass bowl on the filter/pressure regulator I put on recently...which puked gas profusely in my driveway until I tightened it, after telling the wife to run for her life and not cause any sparks as she did...it was an uneventful trip. She really must love me...she still went for the ride after that. Fall in Rockies Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Sep 25 20:58:52 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 22:58:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper wiring order Message-ID: <01ea01c7ffe9$2ce9ef60$9f0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Would someone with a TR3 (maybe early TR4) please tell me what color of wire goes on the bottom of the mounted wiper unit? I imagine a black wire goes on the top, so it has to either be green or black w/ green. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3a- TS71318L From dtennant at shaw.ca Tue Sep 25 21:15:39 2007 From: dtennant at shaw.ca (Donald Tennant) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 20:15:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise In-Reply-To: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost> References: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost> Message-ID: <46F9CEDB.4030004@shaw.ca> Jim Muller wrote: > Just when I thought it was safe to put the wrenches away... > > My Spitfire has a new sound. When I turn a corner at anything more > than walking speed I hear a clunk clunk clunk, maybe 3 to 5 clunks > right behind me which sound like something bouncing across a metallic > floor or swinging against a metallic wall. Except there isn't > anything to swing or bounce, nothing loose underneath nor under the > spare tire. > > I fully expect one or more of you to say it is something come loose > in the gas tank. So what would it likely be? A filter perhaps? Is > it serious? > > I don't relish the idea of pulling the tank, or even just pulling a > cover off. > > Tanks in advance, > > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > > > > Have you checked your drive shaft U joints? D. Tennant From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Sep 25 21:53:40 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 23:53:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise In-Reply-To: <46F9CEDB.4030004@shaw.ca> References: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost> Message-ID: <46F99F84.3294.2336955@localhost> On 25 Sep 2007 at 20:15, Donald Tennant wrote: > Have you checked your drive shaft U joints? And Michael Porter suggested a u-joint. In fact, I have a bad u- joint on the right side halfshaft. It's been bad for a long time and will be replaced soon. The driveshaft was fine when I put the diff in a year ago. In any case, this isn't a u-joint sound. It's too slow and isn't that distinct clicking sound. It's as if something were bouncing on a sheet metal suface. Like a short-handle screwdriver free to roll across the trunk. Except the trunk doesn't have anything like that. I checked! But thanks anyway. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Sep 25 21:53:39 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 23:53:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DB3B@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <46F99F83.28939.23367CE@localhost> On 25 Sep 2007 at 22:27, Mark Hooper wrote: > We have a nephew with us for the year enrolled in some > ponsy school with radical ideas that the young need an education > involving more than the history of Sodom and standing > duty as a toast rack for the older students. ... > Actually, the kid's not half bad what with no instructions and > having to play with 2 pairs of socks and a washcloth > stuffed deep in maw of the dreadful machine. Mark, you've been reading too much P.G. Wodehouse. Go back to Patrick O'Brien. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM From wbeech at flash.net Tue Sep 25 22:45:19 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 22:45:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper wiring order In-Reply-To: <01ea01c7ffe9$2ce9ef60$9f0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070926044444.650C31879D0@autox.team.net> Black/Green to the wiper switch. BB -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:59 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper wiring order Would someone with a TR3 (maybe early TR4) please tell me what color of wire goes on the bottom of the mounted wiper unit? I imagine a black wire goes on the top, so it has to either be green or black w/ green. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3a- TS71318L _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM From wbeech at flash.net Tue Sep 25 22:45:19 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 22:45:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise In-Reply-To: <46F99F84.3294.2336955@localhost> Message-ID: <20070926044446.C44AB187A1C@autox.team.net> No one has suggested the exhaust line, this can produce some very odd noises if something is only moderately loose. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:54 PM To: Donald Tennant Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] a new clunking noise On 25 Sep 2007 at 20:15, Donald Tennant wrote: > Have you checked your drive shaft U joints? And Michael Porter suggested a u-joint. In fact, I have a bad u- joint on the right side halfshaft. It's been bad for a long time and will be replaced soon. The driveshaft was fine when I put the diff in a year ago. In any case, this isn't a u-joint sound. It's too slow and isn't that distinct clicking sound. It's as if something were bouncing on a sheet metal suface. Like a short-handle screwdriver free to roll across the trunk. Except the trunk doesn't have anything like that. I checked! But thanks anyway. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM From efrenken at lctax.de Wed Sep 26 01:15:19 2007 From: efrenken at lctax.de (Frenken, Eric) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 09:15:19 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance: Marcel Chichak's database (Part 1) In-Reply-To: <20070926044446.C44AB187A1C@autox.team.net> References: <46F99F84.3294.2336955@localhost> <20070926044446.C44AB187A1C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F832@spottswoode.lctax.ads> Marcel, I haven't got huffy about your database, but it seems to me, that you got huffy about my mail to the Triumph list. There was no criticism about your work from my side. My comment was just a kind of warning to the community not to use your database without double-checking the data. Without question you've created a very useful list, just with the restriction, that the information therein might be right or not. ... Hinweise: 1. Lohr + Company GmbH WirtschaftsprC www.lctax.de [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s] From efrenken at lctax.de Wed Sep 26 01:16:48 2007 From: efrenken at lctax.de (Frenken, Eric) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 09:16:48 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance: Marcel Chichak's database (Part 2) In-Reply-To: <20070926044446.C44AB187A1C@autox.team.net> References: <46F99F84.3294.2336955@localhost> <20070926044446.C44AB187A1C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F833@spottswoode.lctax.ads> ... Your list is and will be a source to look up things first for me. I've often used your list, but always tried to confirm these data anywhere else. As you said, you know of errors in the database, and it should be in your interest, that people, who want to use your information, are aware of possible errors. And that was my intention. Not more, not less. Best regards Eric Hinweise: 1. Lohr + Company GmbH WirtschaftsprC www.lctax.de [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s] From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Wed Sep 26 01:45:19 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 02:45:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DB3B@exchange.terra-in cognita.net> References: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost> <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DB3B@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <200709260745.l8Q7jf4h148756@ns3.geneseo.net> At 09:27 PM 9/25/2007, Mark Hooper wrote: >Speaking of new noises; there is a new noise in my home too. ....somewhat the same reaction as when I came home to the sound of a duck being squashed in the upstairs room previously belonging to my high school aged daughter. Anybody been around a fledgling Oboe player? uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Sep 26 05:49:57 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 07:49:57 EDT Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise Message-ID: In a message dated 9/25/2007 5:12:53 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: Except there isn't anything to swing or bounce, nothing loose underneath nor under the spare tire. Jim, I know it's a stretch but if your Spit has plastic center hub caps, they may be creaking. I've seen/heard it happen on TR6's. You would think that the springs attached to the backside of the center hubs would keep the caps firm against the wheel rim but I have heard them creak. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Sep 26 06:08:42 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 08:08:42 EDT Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise Message-ID: In a message dated 9/25/2007 9:27:59 PM Central Daylight Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: > "What is that ghastly noise?" thought I; followed by "How did he get the > beast > through the door?" Finally, the awful realisation struck, "Ye gods, they've > given him a trombone!". > Count your blessings. They could have given him a set of bagpipes! Dave From clarkfot at cwnicholls.net Wed Sep 26 12:24:34 2007 From: clarkfot at cwnicholls.net (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 14:24:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Spits] a new clunking noise In-Reply-To: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost> References: <46F96B8C.32114.1686A2F@localhost> Message-ID: <002001c8006a$7e870390$1342a8c0@semperon3400> Put the top up and close the windows, you may be able to hear the noise better. I keep the top down to avoid this! Here's a new one for me I experienced last fall... 74 Spitfire. Last year on my last run of the summer (as it turned out) I noticed a rotational clicking from the rear, similar to a u-joint. The axle U-Joints were both recent, considering the miles I drive, but I figured, oh-well... I slid underneath and by feel I determined the click was on the driver side, so I did that u-joint. It looked fine on removal, but it's out so a new one goes in. Back on the road, still there, so I did the passenger side. Same deal, old looked fine. Noise still there... Hmmm... Driveshaft feels fine, but perhaps? I really don't want to do those as I've had experience with ruining the balance before. I disconnected everything from the diff and twisted and turned the stub axles and input, I could still feel a clicking. After much hesitation I removed the diff. Turned out that the shims behind the spider gears were worn out and there was slop there which causes this. Never heard of such a thing. Ted Schumacher wasn't too surprised. Apparently it does this when one wheel is turning faster than the other and the spider gears are doing their thing. Straight line they should be still, but that's really straight! I put in a spare diff and spring. The old spring had worn out the rub buttons between the leaves and into the leaf below and was at least an inch shorter than the spare. All is well, now. It took me over a month to think this all out and get the job done, It's a big decision to swap the diff (and it's heavy too!). The whine from the diff I lived with for 25 years is gone as a bonus! Clark From kthompson at whoi.edu Wed Sep 26 12:26:06 2007 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 14:26:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise Message-ID: <46FAA43E.7030701@whoi.edu> Hey Jim, a thought just crossed my mind.....The last e-mail you sent me....of the photo with you catching a ......rather small fish (a baby trout, I believe). Yes, that one. Would you by chance happened to have tucked that little guy in the boot? Or perhaps on the exhaust manifold so it might be cooked by the time you got home?? Are there any "fishy" odors associated with the clunking noises? Just thought I'd ask..... :-) What a fantastic day out there!!!!!! Cheers, Kevin T Here on Cape Cod, where we have real fish... '76 TR6 '59 TR3A regardless of what Jim says..... ;-Q In a message dated 9/25/2007 5:12:53 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: Except there isn't anything to swing or bounce, nothing loose underneath nor under the spare tire. From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Sep 26 13:42:28 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 15:42:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C0773F946@exchange.terra-incognita.net> As a youth, I spent quite a few summer days with my friend Scott listening to his grandfather stump up and down the back garden with his bagpipes in full cry. Being of Scottish extraction myself, I have a passing fondness for the sound of the pipes. However, you must be positioned correctly so as to have the best experience. A distance of several miles well upwind generally suits many. Mark ________________________________ From: Dave1massey at cs.com [mailto:Dave1massey at cs.com] Sent: September 26, 2007 8:09 AM To: Mark Hooper; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] a new clunking noise In a message dated 9/25/2007 9:27:59 PM Central Daylight Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: "What is that ghastly noise?" thought I; followed by "How did he get the beast through the door?" Finally, the awful realisation struck, "Ye gods, they've given him a trombone!". Count your blessings. They could have given him a set of bagpipes! Dave From jmerone at rocketmail.com Wed Sep 26 13:49:11 2007 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 12:49:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] How long can posts be? Message-ID: <403694.46037.qm@web30913.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Greetings: Is there a maximum amount of bandwidth that a post can take up in order to make it on to one of the autox.team.net lists? I've written a slightly long-ish review of my transmission swap, and have tried to send it in twice in the past few months. Neither time have I seen it make it. I'm beginning to think that it's a statement on my writing style. Joe Merone CF18928 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Sep 26 17:03:32 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 19:03:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] How long can posts be? In-Reply-To: <403694.46037.qm@web30913.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <403694.46037.qm@web30913.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000e01c80091$77fdaa70$210110ac@bobspc> Joe, There is a maximum size which the list manager can set. I had the same problem with one of my posts. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Merone Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 3:49 PM To: 6 Pack list; Triumph List Subject: [TR] How long can posts be? Greetings: Is there a maximum amount of bandwidth that a post can take up in order to make it on to one of the autox.team.net lists? I've written a slightly long-ish review of my transmission swap, and have tried to send it in twice in the past few months. Neither time have I seen it make it. I'm beginning to think that it's a statement on my writing style. Joe Merone CF18928 ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433 _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM From bielings at comcast.net Wed Sep 26 17:40:54 2007 From: bielings at comcast.net (k) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 19:40:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Petronix Message-ID: <001401c80096$ae8ade50$0302a8c0@PORTABLE> Anyone know how to test a petronix unit in a TR3? From jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 26 18:57:22 2007 From: jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net (Jerry Stasyszen) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 18:57:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Spits] 77 Spitfire In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <001201c800a1$5d4fe1b0$6401a8c0@greeper> Here is a link if anyone want to see the car and the parts http://okcspitfire.atspace.com/77spit.htm I am parting out a 77 Spitfire. I removed the engine and trans but the rest remains. The body if pretty straight except that it was wrecked but all the damaged arteas have been meticulously removed. I have new body parts to for the areas that were cut out. The bonnet has some beginning rust but the floors are in great shape. This would be a nice buildable car. I just don't have the time or a mig to weld the body parts back together. If anyone is interested in parts then email me off list or call 405-672-9707 in Oklahoma City. I'll allow time here but if no one wants any of it I'll put it up on ebay in a couple of weeks. The replacement parts like the trans tunnel and sheet metal are new, roll bar has never been installed. Thanks Jerry Stasyszen 405-672-9707 Jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net jstasyszen at odmhsas.org _______________________________________________ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007 11:53 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 26 20:55:37 2007 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 19:55:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Anyone near Allegan , MI??? Message-ID: <751848.68822.qm@web37502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi listers- Is anyone near Allegan, MI? I have located a part I need but the owner is unable to ship. If you are near and are willing/able to help collect the part and get it packed (with compensation, of course), please contact me off list. triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Chad From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Sep 26 21:02:36 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 23:02:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Anyone near Allegan , MI??? In-Reply-To: <751848.68822.qm@web37502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <46FAE50C.13775.29B62B5@localhost> On 26 Sep 2007 at 19:55, Chad wrote: > Is anyone near Allegan, MI? I would imagine someone is. Otherwise why would they put a town there at all? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM From dorpaul at negia.net Wed Sep 26 22:11:19 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 00:11:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] 'driving it to my grave!' Message-ID: <005301c800bc$7638ba60$67e5e8c7@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I'm still a good ways from driving my '60 TR3A and I still dream of that day. Since I'll be 'driving it to my grave', so to speak, I wonder if I might add some handicap 'helps' or grab-bars to it while I am restoring the body myself? Planning for the future, I guess! I am adding a more substantial roll-bar to it (although I have been told that often these do more harm than good and are primarily cosmetic). I am unaware if a rollbar can be used for enabling one to 'climb aboard', so to speak. But, if so, then a roll-bar could qualify as a 'handicap aid. Currently my car is up on scaffolding, so I am unable to test out my rollbar, but maybe someone will tell me if they are an 'aid'. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 26 22:26:17 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 21:26:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Petronix In-Reply-To: <001401c80096$ae8ade50$0302a8c0@PORTABLE> Message-ID: <20070927042618.EGYP28177.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Anyone know how to test a petronix unit in a TR3? Positive or negative ground ? For what problem ? Although I've not tried it myself, I believe you should be able to hook a test lamp across the two coil terminals, and look to see that it goes on and off as you turn the engine. Pertronix claims that the most common problem is low voltage to the unit. But they only give directions for negative ground, which consist of removing the red wire from the coil (leaving any other wires attached) and running a jumper from the red wire directly to the battery + terminal. If the engine then starts, the problem was low voltage to the Pertronix. But, I'll bet this is only common on cars with ballast resistors, which would be most cars but not the TR3. More information at http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/pertronix_igniters.htm Although it's for one of those *other* cars, should be applicable to a TR3. Randall From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Thu Sep 27 03:46:29 2007 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 05:46:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page Message-ID: <008e01c800eb$479b8c30$6700a8c0@andy> I was looking around the web, trying to find a 6-vane impeller when I came across this web page http://www.teae.org/cooling/cooling_article.html It's about Sunbeam tigers specifically but I think a lot of the info may be relevant to our Triumphs. My apologies if this is a repeat, but I've been off the list for a couple of years, and I'm on the digest list for now. Andy '59 TR3A (In the garage on stands, waiting for the owner to overcome shipwright's disease) No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Thu Sep 27 05:10:40 2007 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 07:10:40 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Wishbone Classics on eBay Message-ID: <15721634.1190891440718.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hello, Thanks to everyone that has offered to help me regarding my TR6 engine that went to Kai Radicke last December. I see that Wishbone Classics posted 4 new auctions on eBay last night. If anyone is bidding on these or wins them, may I ask a favor? Can you please ask Kai why he won't talk to the guy in Virginia that gave him an engine, thousands of dollars worth of parts, and a check for $3000 nearly 10 months ago? Also, if any of you are active on the MG or Spitfire lists, could you cross post my original "open letter" there? Maybe he's switched his focus to other engines? I've left phone messages on Kai's cell phone and business number. I've contacted him via eBay, where he is apparently active. He will not contact me. I've reviewed all our old emails, where he clearly states the engine should be done in May, and later July. I see no evidence of any disagreement in the old correspondence. Kai: why me? Sincerely, Tom Marincic From ray at raysmg.com Thu Sep 27 07:14:52 2007 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 06:14:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] 'driving it to my grave!' Message-ID: <20070927061452.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.867a48106e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Hi, Paul, My TR3 does not have a roll bar, my Sprite does, and a couple prior cars have. I also have a friend that has a singe hoop in his MGB that I have ridden in some distance. My own observation is that a roll bar does little in providing assistance in entering or exiting the car. The location, behind the seat, is away from where legs, arms, and body are moving and locating. I believe you would benefit from a newer, more robust steering wheel; one not quite as large as the origial that would afford additional room between wheel and seat. Planned or not, that will be the first thing you hands find naturally. Also, be sure the windscreen post on the drivers side is mounted very securely; it also is a natural hand hold. Finally, the "b" pillar right behind the seat provides good grip for your left hand when exiting; be sure there is nothing there to break, bend or cut yourself on. Needless to say, the seat must be mounted securely. I find entering and exiting the TR3 is a breeze after driving my Midget (and before long, the Sprite). There is plenty of room between seat and wheel (even with my bad knees) IF you plan your entry and exit and execute it correctly. When the knees are giving me trouble I find it easier sometimes to stay planted in the seat and rotate my legs in and out of the car. Then, if you can stand up from a low chair or stool, you should be albe to simply raise (or lower) yourself into (or out of) the car. We're practically neighbors. Why not give me a call and let me know you'll be stopping by. I'll pull the TR out into the drive and you can see for yourself. I think you'll be surprised at how easy it is ot get into and out of. Ray (who sometimes pretends he's 16 and doesn't even open the door!) Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Sep 27 08:26:14 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 14:26:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] Petronix In-Reply-To: <001401c80096$ae8ade50$0302a8c0@PORTABLE> References: <001401c80096$ae8ade50$0302a8c0@PORTABLE> Message-ID: > Anyone know how to test a petronix unit in a TR3? See if the car starts. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ News, entertainment and everything you care about at Live.com. Get it now! http://www.live.com/getstarted.aspx From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Sep 27 08:43:10 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 10:43:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] 'driving it to my grave!' In-Reply-To: <20070927061452.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.867a48106e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> References: <20070927061452.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.867a48106e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Message-ID: <8C9CF2BDC47A624-AA8-502E@WEBMAIL-MC08.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: ray at raysmg.com ... Also, be sure the windscreen post on the drivers side is mounted very securely; it also is a natural hand hold. ... ==AM== Maybe so, Ray, but I honestly doubt that a TR3 windscreen post can be mounted securely enough to prevent stress on the glass when used as an entrance- or exit-assist handle. In years past, my dad and I learned that the hard way on both a TR3A and a Mk3 Spitfire. :-( --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From dkspence at telus.net Thu Sep 27 09:06:47 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 09:06:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] a new clunking noise In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <656CA46B-D820-475C-86BF-93E43C945152@telus.net> Brings to mind a Gentleman of my acquaintance. You do know the definition of a Gentleman don't you? No? Well a Gentleman is a person who knows how to play the bagpipes (or the Banjo), and doesn't. On 27-Sep-07, at 5:11 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "Mark Hooper" > Date: September 26, 2007 1:42:28 PM MDT (CA) > To: , > Subject: Re: [TR] a new clunking noise > > > As a youth, I spent quite a few summer days with my friend Scott > listening to his grandfather stump up and down the back garden with > his > bagpipes in full cry. Being of Scottish extraction myself, I have a > passing fondness for the sound of the pipes. However, you must be > positioned correctly so as to have the best experience. A distance of > several miles well upwind generally suits many. > > > > Mark From bdischer at blakedischer.com Thu Sep 27 09:23:51 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 11:23:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Reuters: BMW mulls fourth brand Message-ID: <014201c8011a$69ccb520$6186fea9@bjdtr3a> FYI This on the business wires a short time ago: Reuters September 27, 2007 -- 09:00 CET FRANKFURT (Reuters) -- BMW AG may add a fourth brand under a new strategy that CEO Norbert Reithofer is presenting to the German carmaker's supervisory board, the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung paper reported. Without citing the source of its information, the paper said the potential new brand would round out its current portfolio of premium BMWs, Mini small cars and luxury Rolls-Royces, it said. The paper said BMW has ruled out acquiring Swedish brand Volvo from Ford Motor Co, which is sounding out interest in its European premium nameplates. From bdischer at blakedischer.com Thu Sep 27 09:25:46 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 11:25:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] "Automotive News" column re BMW-Triumph Message-ID: <014301c8011a$b0312f50$6186fea9@bjdtr3a> FYI BMW should revive Triumph Rick Kranz Automotive News Europe | September 27, 2007 -- 16:08 CET With rumblings about BMW AG adding a fourth brand, what better brand than Triumph? In fact, how about a 21st century Triumph Spitfire or TR4? BMW said today (Sept. 27) that it is considering another brand. BMW CEO Norbert Reithofer revealed this during a press conference to discuss the company's 10-year strategy. The carmaker's current brands are Rolls-Royce, BMW and Mini. I can think of four reasons why BMW should resurrect the Triumph brand and sell those cars in Mini showrooms: -- While the Triumph brand disappeared in 1984, it is still a well-respected name with loads of cache. The brand produced a wide range of British classics: the 1950s TR3, 1960s TR4 and 1970s TR6. Ditto for the '60s Spitfires. Those beautifully styled two-passenger roadsters and coupes still turn heads, and one of those models could be the inspiration for a 21st century Triumph model. -- There's no need to re-invent the wheel. The rear-drive vehicle architecture already exists -- it is hidden under the popular, well-received BMW 1 series. Of course, a slight shortening of the wheelbase would be needed. As for engines, just look under the hood of the 1 series. -- Mini dealers need more models. Today, the Mini line is limited to a front-drive, three-door hatchback and a convertible. The wagon-like Clubman goes on sale in Europe next month; U.S. sales begin early next year. Mini will add a crossover, Reithofer said today. Plus, there is talk about a four-door sedan, maybe a pickup, both are years off at best. The bottom line: Mini's model line will be limited to several flavors of the same model. Mini dealers need a second brand to insure their profitability in the coming decades. -- The original Triumph Spitfire was not as premium as say the Austin Healy 3000 in the '60s, but it was several steps above the little MG Midget. Throughout its life it remained an affordable, fun-to-drive sports car. When it comes to price, a new Spitfire could be positioned somewhere above the Mini and below the BMW Z4. So could a TR. While such iconic British names as MG and Austin Healy are now the property of the Chinese, guess who owns "Triumph"? BMW. The German automaker has done an excellent job with Mini. That car has received a long list of accolades worldwide. Herr Reithofer: Do the same magic for Triumph! You may e-mail Rick Kranz at rkranz at crain.com From spitlist at cox.net Thu Sep 27 09:38:11 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 08:38:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Reuters: BMW mulls fourth brand References: <014201c8011a$69ccb520$6186fea9@bjdtr3a> Message-ID: <004301c8011c$69312680$2d02a8c0@Belkin> As Yogi says, "It's Deja Vu all over again" Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake J. Discher" To: "'TR List'" Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:23 AM Subject: [TR] Reuters: BMW mulls fourth brand > FYI > > This on the business wires a short time ago: > > Reuters > September 27, 2007 -- 09:00 CET > > FRANKFURT (Reuters) -- BMW AG may add a fourth brand under a new strategy > that CEO Norbert Reithofer is presenting to the German carmaker's > supervisory board, the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung paper reported. > > Without citing the source of its information, the paper said the potential > new brand would round out its current portfolio of premium BMWs, Mini small > cars and luxury Rolls-Royces, it said. > > The paper said BMW has ruled out acquiring Swedish brand Volvo from Ford > Motor Co, which is sounding out interest in its European premium nameplates. > _______________________________________________ > spitlist at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From McGaheyRx at aol.com Thu Sep 27 10:06:01 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 12:06:01 EDT Subject: [TR] Wishbone Classics on eBay Message-ID: In a message dated 9/27/2007 6:10:54 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net writes: I've left phone messages on Kai's cell phone and business number. I've contacted him via eBay, where he is apparently active. He will not contact me. I've reviewed all our old emails, where he clearly states the engine should be done in May, and later July. I see no evidence of any disagreement in the old correspondence. Kai: why me? Maybe Kai is a graduate of the Brian Schlorf PowerBritish School of Business. Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From nwolf at u.washington.edu Thu Sep 27 10:40:50 2007 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 09:40:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page Message-ID: Ooh, that is VERY cool, a nice rigorous study, and some of the results were surprising: 1. Airflow is ~95% of the problem, far more important than choice of radiator. 2. Slower-flowing water is better. 3. Fans should be 1" away from the radiator. 4. Some electric fans are much more effective than others (many blades bad). Too bad they only tested the electric fans in pusher configuration, but I guess that the removal of the stock fan is not really an option on the Tiger? -Nick 64-ish TR4 Vancouver, BC > Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 05:46:29 -0400 > From: "Andy" > > I was looking around the web, trying to find a 6-vane impeller when I came > across this web page > http://www.teae.org/cooling/cooling_article.html > It's about Sunbeam tigers specifically but I think a lot of the info may be > relevant to our Triumphs. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 27 12:00:13 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 11:00:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > 2. Slower-flowing water is better. That IS surprising. Would be nice if they had actually confirmed that, maybe by measuring actual water flow and temperature at the heads instead of at the intake manifold. And why did their restrictor plate show no difference at all, while the thermostat was so much better ? Sorry, still falls in the category of "perpetual motion machine" to me. Just like that free money from Nigeria, anything that violates the laws of thermodynamics is probably not true. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 27 08:33:51 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 07:33:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wishbone Classics on eBay In-Reply-To: <15721634.1190891440718.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20070927143351.BTCI14677.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > I see that Wishbone Classics posted 4 new auctions on eBay > last night. Just a thought; is there any chance Kai is incapacitated somehow, and someone else has hijacked his eBay id ? Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 27 12:28:57 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 11:28:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] 'driving it to my grave!' In-Reply-To: <8C9CF2BDC47A624-AA8-502E@WEBMAIL-MC08.sysops.aol.com> References: <20070927061452.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.867a48106e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> <8C9CF2BDC47A624-AA8-502E@WEBMAIL-MC08.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <056f01c80134$447a44d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Maybe so, Ray, but I honestly doubt that a TR3 windscreen post can be > mounted securely enough to prevent stress on the glass when > used as an > entrance- or exit-assist handle. Indeed the stanchions themselves will distort, and it is quite possible to break the glass if you put too much weight on it. The cockpit rails are much better (stronger) places to put your weight. However, the stanchions can be used if you just need to steady yourself and don't put too much weight on them. Randall From CarlSereda at aol.com Thu Sep 27 12:33:06 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 14:33:06 EDT Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page Message-ID: Thanks Andy, Great reference for cooling issues - best thing I've read in a while. www.teae.org/cooling/cooling_article.html Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------- I was looking around the web, trying to find a 6-vane impeller when I came across this web page http://www.teae.org/cooling/cooling_article.html It's about Sunbeam tigers specifically but I think a lot of the info may be relevant to our Triumphs. Andy '59 TR3A (In the garage on stands, waiting for the owner to overcome shipwright's disease) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Sep 27 13:12:45 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 15:12:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] 'driving it to my grave!' References: <20070927061452.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.867a48106e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> <8C9CF2BDC47A624-AA8-502E@WEBMAIL-MC08.sysops.aol.com> <056f01c80134$447a44d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <003301c8013a$62d5aa40$2d017247@fred8kwiskhcfu> When entering a T/R 3 and using the W/S or staunchions as assissit handles you are more than likely to leave a busted or bent staunchion or w/s frame,assenger reaches up and grab the w/s frame to lift themselves out you will bend the W/S frame every time, take a W/S apart and then attempt to reassemble same with the frame bent, not easy if it can be done, they were never intended to be lifting posts or handles so use them as intended . "FT" From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Sep 27 14:14:42 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 16:14:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] tri metal bearings Message-ID: <004601c80143$0ac246c0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Listers, FWIW, I just purchased tri metal TR4 rod and main bearings from TRF, +.010. They are branded "County", made in Israel. Believe the sets I previously purchased, also made in Israel, were branded "King" I would suspect that all suppliers of tri metal TR bearings have the same source. NFI Ed Woods From cak at dimebank.com Thu Sep 27 14:17:59 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 13:17:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] "Automotive News" column re BMW-Triumph In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46FC0FF7.8080808@dimebank.com> > In fact, how about a 21st century Triumph Spitfire or TR4? They're already selling a 21st century GT6 ... From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Sep 27 13:45:55 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 20:45:55 +0100 Subject: [TR] Wishbone Classics on eBay References: <15721634.1190891440718.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <00c901c8013f$05bbcba0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Tom Marincic wrote: > I've left phone messages on Kai's cell phone and business number. I've > contacted him via eBay, where he is apparently active. He will not contact > me. I've reviewed all our old emails, where he clearly states the engine > should be done in May, and later July. I see no evidence of any > disagreement in the old correspondence. Kai: why me? It's very saddening to read messages like this on any email list and I'm sure Tom must have thought long and hard before posting his first note. I guess some people might be inclined to take Tom's comments at face value and act according to their whim? However, Mr. Radicke is, I believe, running his own business and I would have thought he might want to reply? After all, in this competitive world, can we afford to lose business and let our customers bad-mouth us - whether they have cause to or not? Perhaps Mr. Radicke has overlooked the fact that there are two sides to every story and while he may choose not to discuss specific customer relations difficulties in public, a continuing silence on his part for whatever reason is not really to his commercial advantage. Maybe he'd like to respond to Tom Marincic's observations without making his reply public and then Tom can tell us all that the problems are resolved? For the record, I've never met either of these people and probably never will. Jonmac From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Sep 27 14:38:40 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 16:38:40 EDT Subject: [TR] Reuters: BMW mulls fourth brand Message-ID: In a message dated 9/27/2007 9:24:37 AM Mountain Daylight Time, bdischer at blakedischer.com writes: FYI This on the business wires a short time ago: Reuters September 27, 2007 -- 09:00 CET FRANKFURT (Reuters) -- BMW AG may add a fourth brand under a new strategy that CEO Norbert Reithofer is presenting to the German carmaker's supervisory board, the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung paper reported. Without citing the source of its information, the paper said the potential new brand would round out its current portfolio of premium BMWs, Mini small cars and luxury Rolls-Royces, it said. The paper said BMW has ruled out acquiring Swedish brand Volvo from Ford Motor Co, which is sounding out interest in its European premium nameplates. Probably gonna buy Jaguar? But where would that fit with the big BMW sedans, between them and Rolls? Jag 2 seater is a little bigger than the Z4...no? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu Sep 27 17:44:29 2007 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 16:44:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 boggs down.... References: Message-ID: <000401c80160$5e363c40$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Guess who is back. After getting my confidence in the car up a bit I decided to push it harder. Here what I found: I can accelerate in any gear to 4000 RPM, not tried for more RPM than that yet. Sometimes, the car just won't accelerate. Stepping on the gas pedal I hear the engine sound change and the car won't increase speed. I called this bogging down. It happens between say 2000 and 4000 RPM. If I let off on the gas pedal and back on (not punching to floor) maybe 1, 2 or 3 times the car takes off very nicely. If I am running at 55 and press the gas pedal the car will smoothly run right up to 75. Did not push the car past that, next time. It will cruise steady at any speed. Thanks for your thoughts. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 27 16:11:56 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 15:11:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 boggs down.... In-Reply-To: <000401c80160$5e363c40$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <000401c80160$5e363c40$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <058c01c80153$6b3248b0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Here what I found: I can accelerate in any gear to 4000 RPM, > not tried for > more RPM than that yet. Sometimes, the car just won't > accelerate. Stepping > on the gas pedal I hear the engine sound change and the car > won't increase > speed. I called this bogging down. It happens between say > 2000 and 4000 RPM. > If I let off on the gas pedal and back on (not punching to > floor) maybe 1, 2 > or 3 times the car takes off very nicely. If I am running at > 55 and press > the gas pedal the car will smoothly run right up to 75. Did > not push the car > past that, next time. It will cruise steady at any speed. >From that description, my first thought would be dashpots. Do they have enough oil ? Can you feel the resistance when you replace the plungers ? Randall From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Thu Sep 27 16:48:10 2007 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 18:48:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wishbone Classics on eBay Message-ID: <380-220079427224810687@earthlink.net> John, Your advice is excellent. I hope Kai responds, either publicly, in private with me, or through an intermediary. I am fully open to the possibility that I have in some way offended him or acted improperly, and I am eager to learn more. I will also allow that there a range of possible misfortunes that may have befallen him that would quite reasonably allow him to post auctions on eBay yet not correspond with me. If this is the case, I have done him a disservice by even mentioning the matter on this forum, and I look forward to hearing the explanation and providing a full and sincere apology to all concerned. But the silence has been deafening; over 10 weeks without a response. Please believe me when I say I am now choosing between various "last resorts" in order to give Kai every opportunity and yet to preserve my own dwindling resources. I did not air this matter on the Forums without due deliberation, and I am very grateful for the response. I have about 30 emails to respond to tonight, and I apologize to anyone who got a response from my spam filter. Cheers, Tom Marincic P.S. If you's like to get to know me better, please visit www.triumphowners.com/735 to read more about my TR6's story. > [Original Message] > From: John Macartney > To: Tomislav Marincic ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>; triumphs list > Date: 9/27/2007 3:47:56 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Wishbone Classics on eBay > > Tom Marincic wrote: > > > I've left phone messages on Kai's cell phone and business number. I've > > contacted him via eBay, where he is apparently active. He will not contact > > me. I've reviewed all our old emails, where he clearly states the engine > > should be done in May, and later July. I see no evidence of any > > disagreement in the old correspondence. Kai: why me? > > It's very saddening to read messages like this on any email list and I'm > sure Tom must have thought long and hard before posting his first note. I > guess some people might be inclined to take Tom's comments at face value and > act according to their whim? However, Mr. Radicke is, I believe, running his > own business and I would have thought he might want to reply? After all, in > this competitive world, can we afford to lose business and let our customers > bad-mouth us - whether they have cause to or not? > > Perhaps Mr. Radicke has overlooked the fact that there are two sides to > every story and while he may choose not to discuss specific customer > relations difficulties in public, a continuing silence on his part for > whatever reason is not really to his commercial advantage. Maybe he'd like > to respond to Tom Marincic's observations without making his reply public > and then Tom can tell us all that the problems are resolved? > > For the record, I've never met either of these people and probably never > will. > > Jonmac From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Sep 27 17:47:07 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 19:47:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator Message-ID: <200709271947.07105.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Here is a first for me. Had the 4 out today to show the future son-in-law how nice the car runs and on the way home, the ammeter pegged at over +30! The red ignition light never came on and at idle the meter went back to zero. Got the car home with no problem and thought the ammeter was broke. Switched it and still pegs at + 30 at about 2000RPM. Next thought was the regulator, but it seemed to be ok. Next was the generator. I first checked the wires and noticed that the unit was real hot. I mean hotter than the exhaust manifold! So I pulled the unit and took it down stairs for a bench test. To my surprise it ran as a motor when I touched - to either terminal! And when I just touched the field terminal, it really did draw some juice. So I guess there is a short somewhere. As luck would have it, I had a spare, all cleaned up and ready to go. Installed in about 10 minutes and everything seems to be ok. The car did charge at about +10 amps for about 2 miles but then sat down to normal. Has anyone ever heard of this problem? I am guessing the short is in the field windings which made the unit almost too hot to touch. Daughter # 2 is getting married on Saturday and the plan is to drive her to the wedding in the 4 for pictures etc. A bride dressed in white, arriving in a white TR4! I hope the replacement generator lasts the 100 mile treck to Old Forge NY and back this weekend! The only other one I have is in the 3 and that one is over 25 years old. Bob From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Sep 27 16:56:35 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 22:56:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rain Message-ID: <092720072256.22188.46FC35230006108B000056AC22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Just curious. Does TRF or Moss offer Triumph monogrammed rainsuits for TR3 drivers to wear when rain forces them to put the top up so as to delay--not stop--the (side) curtains of water from spashing their work dress trousers? I would have style for my pecadillos. Summer til it snows in New Hampshire, but top down driving now means wearing full winter gear some mornings already, including gortex cap with earmuffs, Thinsulate gloves, and winter coat over fleece jacket. At work they've called me eccentric. But then, they're the ones living in boxes: boxes for houses, boxes to drive to work in, boxes to work in, boxes back, boxes forth. Give me the Viking full-boat burning funeral! Let daisies grow in my ashes instead of giving food to fatten worms. Gadfrey, I hate encroaching winter. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 27 17:03:38 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 16:03:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator In-Reply-To: <200709271947.07105.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200709271947.07105.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <059001c8015a$a3922ed0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Has anyone ever heard of this problem? Sounds like a short between the field and armature terminals. Never seen one do it, but it's one of the first faults mentioned in the Lucas generator troubleshooting manual (which I've just recently scanned into a PDF if anyone would like a copy). Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Sep 27 17:58:37 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 19:58:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator In-Reply-To: <059001c8015a$a3922ed0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <200709271947.07105.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <059001c8015a$a3922ed0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <200709271958.37172.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday 27 September 2007 07:03 pm, Randall wrote: > > Has anyone ever heard of this problem? > > Sounds like a short between the field and armature terminals. Never seen > one do it, but it's one of the first faults mentioned in the Lucas > generator troubleshooting manual (which I've just recently scanned into a > PDF if anyone would like a copy). > > Randall > _______________________________________________ Randall, Please forward me a copy of the PDF! Thanks alot Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 27 17:22:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 16:22:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rain In-Reply-To: <092720072256.22188.46FC35230006108B000056AC22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <092720072256.22188.46FC35230006108B000056AC22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <059401c8015d$54325470$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Just curious. Does TRF or Moss offer Triumph monogrammed > rainsuits Close, TRF still offers their Union Jack rain poncho, P/N RFN1234. Or you could probably find something at Fourth Gear or Triple-C. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Sep 27 18:11:03 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 20:11:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: Message-ID: <46FC0E57.3317.406BD@localhost> On 27 Sep 2007 at 11:00, Randall wrote: > > 2. Slower-flowing water is better. > > That IS surprising. Indeed. I tried reading that article and eventually concluded that I wasn't sure enough of what I was reading to pass judgment. However... Depending on where they took the measurements a lower flow might have made it *seem* better. The lower the flow the more heat will be lost *for that particular volume of water* going through the radiator at that time. So if the measurement was predominantly affected by the temperature at the outflow from the radiator it would in fact register a lower temperature. This must be true for any given radiator operating under any particular conditions (provided the radiator is warmer than the ambient air, of course). It is also true that the lower thermal differential between the water and the air necessarily means less total heat loss per time to the air. Similar reasoning says that a higher flow results in lower thermal gradients everywhere in the engine. (This may or may not be desirable but it is necessarily true.) If the primary means of getting heat out of the engine is via the radiator, then the maximum heat loss per time necessarily requires the hottest radiator. I'm with Randall. It doesn't make sense. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007 8:20 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 27 18:14:40 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 17:14:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rain In-Reply-To: <007001c80160$71a70ac0$6401a8c0@toshibauser> References: <092720072256.22188.46FC35230006108B000056AC22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> <059401c8015d$54325470$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <007001c80160$71a70ac0$6401a8c0@toshibauser> Message-ID: <05b501c80164$906bf250$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Or you can sew a Poncho and a Tonneau Cover together My daughter would love that idea ! Some years ago, I showed up for a Triumph event in the rain, with no top, and her hiding under the passenger's side tonneau cover. > It worked until the State Police stopped him in a > snow storm and > wrote him tickets for some obscure reasons. It would be worth it just to hear them explain to the judge ! I'd probably argue that it was a rare period accessory, and should be "grandfathered" under any current safety laws Randall From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Thu Sep 27 19:20:08 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 18:20:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" Message-ID: Got home last night from class after about a 12 mile run on the freeway doing about 70MPH and I noticed fluid in the battery tray liner when I was checking for antifreeze leaks because I had replaced the radiator last weekend. Turns out it's barrery acid (it ate the paper towel I was using to wipe it out of the liner). Assuming I had a bad battery I pulled it and set it outside for the night. The caps were in place last night when I popped them to confirm it was now low on fluid. I had refiller it less than 2 weeks ago. When I got home today and picked it up to go buy a new one I noticed it had not leaked anymore since I pulled it from the car. Tonight I put it back in to see if maybe it was overcharging and had "boiled" over. The meter had read just over 13 all the way home the other night, pretty normal for my TR6. I connected my external volt meter and it read 12.6 with the car off and 13.85 when running and moved up to 13.9 at 3000 RPM rpm. I don't want to replace the battery if that not the issue. Any ideas? Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Sep 27 19:54:08 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 21:54:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8C9CF8997D201EB-D84-7E6C@webmail-da16.sysops.aol.com> Hi Marty, My less than 6 month old battery developed a leak.? I took it back to NAPA, got a new battery exactly the same model as the old and it has not leaked since.? If it is relatively new, take it back to where you bought it.? If it is an older battery replace it.? My two cents. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Marty Clark To: Triumph Email List ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 9:20 pm Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" Got home last night from class after about a 12 mile run on the freeway doing about 70MPH and I noticed fluid in the battery tray liner when I was checking for antifreeze leaks because I had replaced the radiator last weekend. Turns out it's barrery acid (it ate the paper towel I was using to wipe it out of the liner). Assuming I had a bad battery I pulled it and set it outside for the night. The caps were in place last night when I popped them to confirm it was now low on fluid. I had refiller it less than 2 weeks ago. When I got home today and picked it up to go buy a new one I noticed it had not leaked anymore since I pulled it from the car. Tonight I put it back in to see if maybe it was overcharging and had "boiled" over. The meter had read just over 13 all the way home the other night, pretty normal for my TR6. I connected my external volt meter and it read 12.6 with the car off and 13.85 when running and moved up to 13.9 at 3000 RPM rpm. I don't want to replace the battery if that not the issue. Any ideas? Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From pethier at comcast.net Thu Sep 27 20:11:20 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 02:11:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] 'driving it to my grave!' Message-ID: <092820070211.14290.46FC62C800056BFC000037D222007637049D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > When the knees are giving me trouble I > find it easier sometimes to stay planted in the seat and rotate my > legs in and out of the car. Then, if you can stand up from a low chair > or stool, you should be albe to simply raise (or lower) yourself into > (or out of) the car. That's the way I do most sports cars. It was the only way that worked in the SAAB Sonett. If I tried any other method of getting in, I'd get stuck halfway and need to reverse and start again. Doesn't work in an Elise, though. Sill is too high for me to bend my right leg far enough to get my knee under the steering wheel. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Thu Sep 27 20:19:50 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 02:19:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] "Automotive News" column re BMW-Triumph Message-ID: <092820070219.24429.46FC64C6000C6F6D00005F6D22007637049D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> The TR6 was partially designed in Germany. I don't think wheelbase change is needed. Take a BMW roadster platform, put in one of those BMW twin-cam straight sixes mounted well back, finish off with a body that resembles a TR6 and you have an instant winner. Keep the engine well back for good mass distribution. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier "You think we're sleeping in Dusseldorf, taking a nap in Cologne?" - Mel Brooks From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Thu Sep 27 20:45:31 2007 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 22:45:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wishbone Classics on eBay Message-ID: <380-22007952824531281@earthlink.net> Randall, RE: " is there any chance Kai is incapacitated somehow, and someone else has hijacked his eBay id " It's possible. But I heard Kai's voice on his shop's answering machine's message saying he was "closed for inventory" the week of September 10-14. He was not incapacitated then, and he had 79 auctions on eBay around that time. Cheers, Tom > [Original Message] > From: Randall > To: Tomislav Marincic ; triumphs list > Date: 9/27/2007 2:01:21 PM > Subject: RE: [TR] Wishbone Classics on eBay > > > > I see that Wishbone Classics posted 4 new auctions on eBay > > last night. > > Just a thought; is there any chance Kai is incapacitated somehow, and > someone else has hijacked his eBay id ? > > Randall From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Thu Sep 27 20:52:12 2007 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 22:52:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Wishbone Classics on eBay Message-ID: <380-22007952825212250@earthlink.net> Jim, RE: "Tell us what items Kai has listed so we can find the items and relay your concerns." Here are 4. Please feel free to "ask the seller a question" ;) auctions at wishboneclassics.com http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=130157600976 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=130157601094 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=130157612666 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=130157612681 From ZoboHerald at aol.com Thu Sep 27 20:58:05 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 22:58:05 EDT Subject: [TR] Rain Message-ID: In a message dated 9/27/2007 7:23:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Just curious. Does TRF or Moss offer Triumph monogrammed > rainsuits Close, TRF still offers their Union Jack rain poncho, P/N RFN1234. Or you could probably find something at Fourth Gear or Triple-C. ==AM== or Land's End...or L.L. Bean.... --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Sep 27 22:23:54 2007 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 21:23:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] tri metal bearings In-Reply-To: <004601c80143$0ac246c0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <004601c80143$0ac246c0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <46FC81DA.8020707@comcast.net> Ed, I just purchased +.010 rod and main bearings from TRF. I removed the TRF label from the side of the box and found a label that says "King". The bearing shells are are stamped with "Country". I also thought that this was curios. I checked on line and the King Bearing web site says nothing about any affiliation with Country. I didn't try very hard, but had no luck finding a Country web site. Mike Ed Woods wrote: > Listers, > > FWIW, I just purchased tri metal TR4 rod and main bearings from TRF, +.010. > > They are branded "County", made in Israel. Believe the sets I previously > purchased, also made in Israel, were branded "King" > > I would suspect that all suppliers of tri metal TR bearings have the same > source. > > NFI > > Ed Woods From jercurry at comcast.net Thu Sep 27 21:23:18 2007 From: jercurry at comcast.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 21:23:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 head studs not lined up? Message-ID: <001901c8017e$ea7bfb40$0202fea9@screamer> Howdy all, I am getting ready to put the head on my TR3 for the first time since I got it. A few weeks ago I went to put the head gasket on and found that the holes in the gasket didn't exactly line up with the holes studs. I figured the studs must be bent, so I stopped and ordered new ones. However after putting the new studs in I find the same problem, maybe a little less severe, but the same problem. I don't know if I can even get the gasket on without tearing it to pieces. Has anyone else seen this before or have any insight? thanks, Jeremiah From jercurry at comcast.net Thu Sep 27 21:23:41 2007 From: jercurry at comcast.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 21:23:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 head studs not lined up? Message-ID: <001e01c8017e$f82328e0$0202fea9@screamer> Howdy all, I am getting ready to put the head on my TR3 for the first time since I got it. A few weeks ago I went to put the head gasket on and found that the holes in the gasket didn't exactly line up with the holes studs. I figured the studs must be bent, so I stopped and ordered new ones. However after putting the new studs in I find the same problem, maybe a little less severe, but the same problem. I don't know if I can even get the gasket on without tearing it to pieces. Has anyone else seen this before or have any insight? thanks, Jeremiah From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Sep 27 22:43:14 2007 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 21:43:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] tri metal bearings In-Reply-To: <46FC81DA.8020707@comcast.net> References: <004601c80143$0ac246c0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <46FC81DA.8020707@comcast.net> Message-ID: <46FC8662.4020800@comcast.net> Fred just politely pointed out to me that its "County" not "Country"! I will have to try my web search again. I bet that it makes a significant difference. :-[ Thanks Fred. Mike Michael Lang wrote: > Ed, > > I just purchased +.010 rod and main bearings from TRF. I removed the TRF > label from the side of the box and found a label that says "King". The > bearing shells are are stamped with "Country". I also thought that this > was curios. > > I checked on line and the King Bearing web site says nothing about any > affiliation with Country. I didn't try very hard, but had no luck > finding a Country web site. > > Mike > > > Ed Woods wrote: > >> Listers, >> >> FWIW, I just purchased tri metal TR4 rod and main bearings from TRF, +.010. >> >> They are branded "County", made in Israel. Believe the sets I previously >> purchased, also made in Israel, were branded "King" >> >> I would suspect that all suppliers of tri metal TR bearings have the same >> source. >> >> NFI >> >> Ed Woods From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 27 23:55:42 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 22:55:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] tri metal bearings In-Reply-To: <46FC8662.4020800@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20070928055541.SNTC1483.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Fred just politely pointed out to me that its "County" not > "Country"! I will have to try my web search again. I bet that > it makes a significant difference. :-[ Likely you still won't find any association between County and King; but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. County buys parts from many sources (not even always the same source for the same part); puts them in their own boxes (usually) and resells them to retailers. King actually makes bearings. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 27 23:58:44 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 22:58:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 head studs not lined up? In-Reply-To: <001e01c8017e$f82328e0$0202fea9@screamer> Message-ID: <20070928055846.FSYM20630.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > A few weeks ago I went to put the head > gasket on and found that the holes in the gasket didn't > exactly line up with the holes studs. I figured the studs > must be bent, so I stopped and ordered new ones. However > after putting the new studs in I find the same problem, Mine are always tight, but usually I can work the gasket down without damaging it too badly. That copper is pretty tough, and a little damage right next to the stud hole doesn't seem to hurt anything. I think what happens is that the stud holes in the block are not perfectly vertical, and not perfectly located; so there is some variation from engine to engine and the problem may be worse at the top of the studs than at the surface of the block. You may have to remove the studs, lay the gasket in place and then install the studs through the gasket. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 28 00:42:42 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 23:42:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070928064241.MXAD6229.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > I connected my external volt meter and it read 12.6 with the > car off and 13.85 when running and moved up to 13.9 at 3000 > RPM rpm. I don't want to replace the battery if that not the > issue. Any ideas? I'd hook the voltmeter up so I could take a drive with it connected. 13.9 isn't too high, but you don't know if it was being limited by the regulator or by the battery. Another test would be to run the engine at around 3K and (carefully) look into the battery cells. If only one or two are bubbling, the battery is likely bad. But if they all are bubbling, the alternator is likely overcharging. Randall From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Sep 28 03:47:27 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 09:47:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Slower flowing water is better according to Mr. Mole, my auto tech teacher. The water must stay in the radiator long enough to cool. If it moves too fast it will return to the engine too hot to help. This is one of the arguments against removing the thermostat. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Connect to the next generation of MSN Messenger http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/default.aspx?locale=en-us&source=wl mailtagline From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Fri Sep 28 03:54:52 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 05:54:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page References: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <003901c801b5$9df90470$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> It's early in the morning, and I've only had half a cup of coffee. I noticed that they were finding these differences only in the engine, not the radiator, and only at idle. This makes me suspect this engine has some issues with particular passages not getting flow if things aren't balanced. Sorta like how head gaskets have variously sized holes to regulate cooling flow to help ensure the whole head gets flow, not just the passages where coolant can flow the easiest. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 2:00 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page >> 2. Slower-flowing water is better. > > That IS surprising. Would be nice if they had actually confirmed that, > maybe by measuring actual water flow and temperature at the heads instead > of > at the intake manifold. And why did their restrictor plate show no > difference at all, while the thermostat was so much better ? > > Sorry, still falls in the category of "perpetual motion machine" to me. > Just like that free money from Nigeria, anything that violates the laws of > thermodynamics is probably not true. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > foxtrapper at aceweb.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From DLylis at aol.com Fri Sep 28 04:51:42 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 06:51:42 EDT Subject: [TR] tri metal bearings Message-ID: I have asked this question of parts suppliers when rebuilding my 3A motor and the answer I got consistently is the same as Randall has posted here; that County is a distributor of parts made by a variety of manufacturers. I was interested in finding out who they are as well. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Fri Sep 28 05:13:37 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 07:13:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page References: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <000901c801c0$9e8b3150$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> That's a long standing wives tale. Yes, it's true a teaspoon of slower moving water will absorb more heat in an engine than a teaspoon of faster moving water. But that loses track of the fact that faster moving water brings more teaspoons into the engine. Thermodynamically, you do better with the faster moving water in the cooling system. In fact, you can make the cooling system smaller with the faster moving water. People do understand this, without realizing it often times. They grasp it on the air side. They understand that faster moving air through the radiator takes more heat than slow moving air. They understand that's primarily why cars overheat in stopped traffic. They correctly don't worry about driving too fast to allow cooling air to stay in the radiator long enough. But, those same people can get all confused when you replace the word "air" with "water". Now cavitation in the head or waterjacket for coolant moving too fast, that can be a real problem. It's certainly not common. In fact in many cases it's not possible with standard waterpumps because they can't move the coolant fast enough to create cavitation in the head. But, it can happen in certain cases. ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 5:47 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page > Slower flowing water is better according to Mr. Mole, my auto tech > teacher. > The water must stay in the radiator long enough to cool. If it moves too > fast > it will return to the engine too hot to help. This is one of the > arguments > against removing the thermostat. > > Best regards, > Tom > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Connect to the next generation of MSN Messenger > http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/default.aspx?locale=en-us&source=wl > mailtagline > _______________________________________________ > foxtrapper at aceweb.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Sep 28 05:49:32 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 07:49:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: References: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <46FCB20C.5093.28383EE@localhost> > The water must stay in the radiator long enough to cool. And as the water cools in the radiator (and warms in the block) the rate of heat transfer from (or to) the water slows down. > If it moves too fast it will return to the engine too hot to help. And if it stays in the radiator (or engine) too long it will become too cool (or too warm) to help. Heat transfer is directly related to thermal gradient. If the average temp of the radiator is lower then there must necessarily be less heat being transferred per unit time. The ultimate case, of course, is when the belt breaks and the water speed drops to zero. The radiator will cool and the block warm... -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007 5:00 PM From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 28 06:04:59 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 08:04:59 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 generator Message-ID: In a message dated 9/27/2007 5:57:03 PM Central Daylight Time, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: > So I pulled the unit and took it down stairs for a bench test. > > To my surprise it ran as a motor when I touched - to either terminal! And > when > I just touched the field terminal, it really did draw some juice. > > So I guess there is a short somewhere. > The dynamo should not motor with voltage applied to only the field. Even if there was a fault in the field winding (a short between to windings in the field). But I think you're right, there is a short. The short is between the F terminal and the D terminal. That would explain both the motoring and the full output under way. you might be able to find and resolve it by pulling the back off of the unit. Good luck. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 28 06:45:21 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 08:45:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page Message-ID: In a message dated 9/28/2007 6:50:19 AM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > Heat transfer is directly related to thermal gradient. If the > average temp of the radiator is lower then there must necessarily be > less heat being transferred per unit time. The ultimate case, of > course, is when the belt breaks and the water speed drops to zero. > The radiator will cool and the block warm... > There is heat quantity and heat quality. Heat quantity is measured in BTU/Hr. Heat quality is measured in temperature. The former is hard to measure without specialized equipment (how many of you have a flow meter in your tool box?). The latter is indicated right there on the dash. So it is easy to confuse one for the other. But the differences have been explained in a much more eloquent manner than I am capable of. And RE the website: you can prove anything with anecdotal evidence. But too many variables have not been specified to prove anything. Dave From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Sep 28 06:57:01 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 08:57:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46FCC1DD.22743.2C14BE0@localhost> On 28 Sep 2007 at 8:45, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > There is heat quantity and heat quality. Heat can be measured in calories or Calories (kilocalories). It is well known that beer is a source of Calories, but the Calories from some beers are known to be better than others. Certainly too many calories are bad for your engine, and likewise too many Calories are bad for your driving. It isn't about the quantity, it's about the quality. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007 5:00 PM From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Sep 28 08:03:05 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 10:03:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200709281003.05557.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 28 September 2007 08:04 am, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 9/27/2007 5:57:03 PM Central Daylight Time, > > yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: > > So I pulled the unit and took it down stairs for a bench test. > > > > To my surprise it ran as a motor when I touched - to either terminal! And > > when > > I just touched the field terminal, it really did draw some juice. > > > > So I guess there is a short somewhere. > > The dynamo should not motor with voltage applied to only the field. Even > if there was a fault in the field winding (a short between to windings in > the field). But I think you're right, there is a short. The short is > between the F terminal and the D terminal. That would explain both the > motoring and the full output under way. you might be able to find and > resolve it by pulling the back off of the unit. > > Good luck. > > Dave Dave, Randall sent me the Lucas trouble shooting guide yesterday and you are correct. The guide states that if charging increases as RPM increases there is a short between F and D. I did replace the unit with a spare and everything is ok for now. The shorted generator will be one of many winter projects I will be working on in my spare time during the off season. Thanks, Bob From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Sep 28 07:32:18 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 09:32:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" Message-ID: Marty, I have several Lucas reproduction lead acid batteries. With them one must not fill the cells higher than just enough to cover the plates or they will boil over. Just a thought, Darrell ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Sep 28 07:34:53 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 08:34:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page References: <46FCC1DD.22743.2C14BE0@localhost> Message-ID: <000e01c801d4$5a7f8420$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Yup, it's them killer calories that cause most of the problems in this world. As regards second law issues, the famous British master's of satirical verse, Flanders and Swann, said it best: "Oh, you can't take heat from the cooler to the hotter - You can try it if you like, but you'd far better nott-a!" Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 7:57 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page > On 28 Sep 2007 at 8:45, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > >> There is heat quantity and heat quality. > > Heat can be measured in calories or Calories (kilocalories). It is > well known that beer is a source of Calories, but the Calories from > some beers are known to be better than others. Certainly too many > calories are bad for your engine, and likewise too many Calories are > bad for your driving. > > It isn't about the quantity, it's about the quality. > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: > 9/27/2007 5:00 PM > _______________________________________________ > mmarr at notwires.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From Lbc.Resto at comcast.net Fri Sep 28 07:41:55 2007 From: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net (Ian) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 09:41:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 head studs not lined up? In-Reply-To: <20070928055846.FSYM20630.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <001e01c8017e$f82328e0$0202fea9@screamer> <20070928055846.FSYM20630.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <004f01c801d5$564b5ae0$0502a8c0@RAS> As Randall mentioned, I had to remove a couple of my studs to get the gasket in place on the 4. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 1:59 AM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 head studs not lined up? > A few weeks ago I went to put the head > gasket on and found that the holes in the gasket didn't > exactly line up with the holes studs. I figured the studs > must be bent, so I stopped and ordered new ones. However > after putting the new studs in I find the same problem, Mine are always tight, but usually I can work the gasket down without damaging it too badly. That copper is pretty tough, and a little damage right next to the stud hole doesn't seem to hurt anything. I think what happens is that the stud holes in the block are not perfectly vertical, and not perfectly located; so there is some variation from engine to engine and the problem may be worse at the top of the studs than at the surface of the block. You may have to remove the studs, lay the gasket in place and then install the studs through the gasket. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From fishplate at charter.net Fri Sep 28 08:52:22 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 7:52:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: <000901c801c0$9e8b3150$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <20070928105222.0B2DE.54076.root@fepweb12> ---- Nolan wrote: > People do understand this, without realizing it often times. They grasp it > on the air side. They understand that faster moving air through the > radiator takes more heat than slow moving air. They understand that's > primarily why cars overheat in stopped traffic. They correctly don't worry > about driving too fast to allow cooling air to stay in the radiator long > enough. But, those same people can get all confused when you replace the > word "air" with "water". OK, I've not yet been motivated enough to drag out my thermo book and run the numbers, but let me throw some thoughts out here. First, you must consider replacing the words "ambient air" with "recirculated water". That's bound to change things. Put your car in a box with a fan blowing across the radiator and you won't get the same cooling response that you would in free air. How does the radiator know what is causing the air to move past it? It overheats at idle because the fan isn't as effective at moving air as the car is. Stop at the crest of a mountain, let your car idle until it overheats, then start rolling downhill. Will it cool off then? I dunno... Jeff Scarbrough Muddying The Waters, Ga. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Sep 28 08:57:41 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 14:57:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: <000901c801c0$9e8b3150$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> References: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <000901c801c0$9e8b3150$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: The analogy between water and air has a minor defect. The air moving through a radiator is already cool and the new air remains cool until passing through the radiator. The coolant entering the radiator is hot, duh. If hot coolant passes through the radiator at one gallon per minute or two gallons per minute the one gallon per minute amount will exit the radiator cooler. Theoretically twice as cool as the two gallon per minute. The available cooling potential of the water is also affected by it's speed through the engine. There is a critical point where the water can move through the engine too fast to use it's cooling potential efficiently. For example if water enters the radiator at 210 degrees and exits at 200 degrees the available cooling potential is 10 degrees. If the same water exits the radiator at 190 degrees there is 20 degrees of potential. Water or coolant do not absorb heat instantaneously. The water passing through the engine slower will absorb more heat. The point is you must balance the speed of the water to obtain the maximum cooling with the engine. In my car the operating temperature will rise with the rpms until it overheats. Moving water through the radiator faster as the engine increases it's speed raises the temperature of the water and limits it's cooling potential and efficiency. As in the article on cooling the only way to improve this was to increase air flow. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Invite your mail contacts to join your friends list with Windows Live Spaces. It's easy! http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&m kt=en-us From efrenken at lctax.de Fri Sep 28 09:06:19 2007 From: efrenken at lctax.de (Frenken, Eric) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 17:06:19 +0200 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: References: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <000901c801c0$9e8b3150$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F8A5@spottswoode.lctax.ads> Tom White wrote: If hot coolant passes through the radiator at one gallon per minute or two gallons per minute the one gallon per minute amount will exit the radiator cooler. Theoretically twice as cool as the two gallon per minute. No, not twice as cool. That was the point of the former mail (which I already have deleted). And that's the key point of it all. Eric http://brits-n-pieces.com Hinweise: 1. Lohr + Company GmbH WirtschaftsprC www.lctax.de [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s] From guy at genfiniti.com Fri Sep 28 09:26:42 2007 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 10:26:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 head studs not lined up? In-Reply-To: <004f01c801d5$564b5ae0$0502a8c0@RAS> References: <001e01c8017e$f82328e0$0202fea9@screamer><20070928055846.FSYM20630.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> <004f01c801d5$564b5ae0$0502a8c0@RAS> Message-ID: <000901c801e3$f93f2c50$6601a8c0@idea.com> I'm relieved to hear that someone else is having this problem as well. Randall was dead-on in that not all of these stud holes were tapped perfectly vertical. One of mine is off in two planes! What I had to do was run the stud into the block by only a few threads so that it still "wiggled". I then slipped the gasket over the studs, then slipped the head over the studs, and THEN full-on tightened that one stud into the block. Ass backwards, but it works. This just underscores how the brits have great engineers, but lousy machining. At least the fellows that tapped my holes didn't take the time to make sure the block was level or the drill vertical. Maybe it was nearing tea-time! Cheers, Guy D. Huggins Kennedale, Texas 1965 Triumph TR4A (CTC 63569LO) http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ian Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 8:42 AM To: 'Randall'; 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 head studs not lined up? As Randall mentioned, I had to remove a couple of my studs to get the gasket in place on the 4. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 1:59 AM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 head studs not lined up? > A few weeks ago I went to put the head gasket on and found that the > holes in the gasket didn't exactly line up with the holes studs. I > figured the studs must be bent, so I stopped and ordered new ones. > However after putting the new studs in I find the same problem, Mine are always tight, but usually I can work the gasket down without damaging it too badly. That copper is pretty tough, and a little damage right next to the stud hole doesn't seem to hurt anything. I think what happens is that the stud holes in the block are not perfectly vertical, and not perfectly located; so there is some variation from engine to engine and the problem may be worse at the top of the studs than at the surface of the block. You may have to remove the studs, lay the gasket in place and then install the studs through the gasket. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _______________________________________________ guy at genfiniti.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From rgperry at earthlink.net Fri Sep 28 10:01:02 2007 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 11:01:02 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] "Automotive News" column re BMW-Triumph Message-ID: <12140003.1190995262641.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Blake and list, I would add a stroked BMW twin-cam straight six to retain the low end torque. Greg Perry >I don't think wheelbase change is needed. Take a BMW roadster platform, put in one of those BMW twin-cam straight sixes mounted well back, finish off with a body that resembles a TR6 and you have an instant winner. Keep the engine well back for good mass distribution. From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Sep 28 10:16:18 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 12:16:18 EDT Subject: [TR] 'driving it to my grave!' Message-ID: In a message dated 9/27/2007 8:11:53 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: When the knees are giving me trouble I > find it easier sometimes to stay planted in the seat and rotate my > legs in and out of the car. Then, if you can stand up from a low chair > or stool, you should be albe to simply raise (or lower) yourself into > (or out of) the car. That's the way I do most sports cars. It was the only way that worked in the SAAB Sonett. If I tried any other method of getting in, I'd get stuck halfway and need to reverse and start again. Ah...reminds me of the days in college with the 62 TR3...most young ladies didn't know this trick and made quite a spectacle while I was the perfect gentleman helping her with the door. Robert H ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From peter at nosimport.com Fri Sep 28 10:28:10 2007 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 11:28:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb leaks...still Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070928111709.032d7998@mailbag.com> Listers, I'm having a problem with a TR3 SU carbs weeping fuel from the jet bearing area. I tried the O-rings for the jets from Moss and a different vendor, both leaked. Went back to hte original corks, still weeps (though less) (nb. the rubber O-rings all got much bigger rather quickly) Could it be the upper copper washer at the jet bearing? I'm stumped. Thanks Peter C. From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Fri Sep 28 12:35:57 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 11:35:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" In-Reply-To: <20070928064241.MXAD6229.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070928064241.MXAD6229.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: Thanks Randall. I briefly thought of pulling the covers while the car was running but had never heard of that being done so I decided to not try it. Glad to hear it can be done with caution. I did decide to replace it because it was over three years old any here in the desert that pushing it. I'll try peeking with the new one. Marty On 9/27/07, Randall wrote: > > > I connected my external volt meter and it read 12.6 with the > > car off and 13.85 when running and moved up to 13.9 at 3000 > > RPM rpm. I don't want to replace the battery if that not the > > issue. Any ideas? > > I'd hook the voltmeter up so I could take a drive with it connected. 13.9 > isn't too high, but you don't know if it was being limited by the > regulator > or by the battery. > > Another test would be to run the engine at around 3K and (carefully) look > into the battery cells. If only one or two are bubbling, the battery is > likely bad. But if they all are bubbling, the alternator is likely > overcharging. > > Randall From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Fri Sep 28 12:39:15 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 11:39:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Darrell, It is just a regural battery from Checker Auto but I had topped it off a couple of weeks ago with distilled water. I was very carefull not to over fill. I'll watch the new battery to see if that is occuring as it's the same model as I replaced. Thanks, Marty On 9/28/07, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > > Marty, > I have several Lucas reproduction lead acid batteries. With them one must > not fill the cells higher than just enough to cover the plates or they will > boil over. > Just a thought, > Darrell From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Sep 28 13:50:32 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 15:50:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" In-Reply-To: References: <20070928064241.MXAD6229.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <200709281550.32329.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 28 September 2007 02:35 pm, Marty Clark wrote: > Thanks Randall. I briefly thought of pulling the covers while the car was > running but had never heard of that being done so I decided to not try it. > Glad to hear it can be done with caution. I did decide to replace it > because it was over three years old any here in the desert that pushing it. > I'll try peeking with the new one. > > Marty > Marty, I gave up on those batteries years ago after acid caused my oil line to rupture. My first maint free battery was the AC Delco Freedom. That one lasted about 5-6 years. Cost about 75. Last year I replaced that battery in the 3 with a Exide orbital. Last year the price was < 100 + shipping. This year the same battery went up to about 175. I shopped around and got 1 for the 4 for 135. The battery is real compact, smaller than the GM battery and does it turn those Lucas starters with some power. I hope the batteries last in excess of 7 years. During the off season, I use a battery tender to keep them fresh. And I never will have to worry about acid leakage, corrosion etc. For me the extra $ is worth it. Just my 2 cents. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 28 14:09:03 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 13:09:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb leaks...still In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20070928111709.032d7998@mailbag.com> References: <7.0.1.0.2.20070928111709.032d7998@mailbag.com> Message-ID: <060501c8020b$6a9aba00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I'm having a problem with a TR3 SU carbs weeping fuel > from the jet > bearing area. I tried the O-rings for the jets from Moss and a > different vendor, both leaked. Went back to hte original corks, still > weeps (though less) (nb. the rubber O-rings all got much bigger > rather quickly) That's strange. They must be the wrong material (EPDM instead of Buna-N). But the ones I got from Moss worked just fine and held their shape well even after several years of daily driving. > Could it be the upper copper washer at the > jet bearing? The washer on the upper bearing only seals fuel from the carb throat. It might be the rather larger washer between the lower bearing and the big nut, but unlikely IMO. And if it was, you'd find fuel running down over the outside of the lower bearing. Did you check the jet itself ? I got replacement jets a few years back that were made differently than the originals. They actually had a tapped hole in the bottom of the jet body and a special screw that went through the clevis and screwed into the bottom of the bore. They leaked between the clevis and jet until I reworked them. New spring inside the jet bearings ? Both cupped washers in place and turned the right way (to cup the seals) ? Seal seats in the bearings clean and undamaged ? Sealing surface of the jet in perfect condition ? One trick that might help : pull the jet down a bit (like applying the choke) and spray some aerosol foot powder on the area (the stuff that dries quickly to a white powder) . It should make it much more obvious exactly where the leak is occurring. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 28 14:33:08 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 13:33:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" In-Reply-To: References: <20070928064241.MXAD6229.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <060c01c8020e$c829f610$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> From: Marty Clark [mailto:marty.tr6 at gmail.com] > I briefly thought of pulling the covers while the car was running but had > never heard of that being done so I decided to not try it. Glad to hear it > can be done with caution. There are two main reasons for caution. The first is that those bubbles are an explosive mixture of hydrogen and oxygen. Don't want any sources of ignition ! Second is that they can carry little drops of sulfuric acid into the air. Don't want those in your eyes ! Randall From nwolf at u.washington.edu Fri Sep 28 16:25:43 2007 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 15:25:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page Message-ID: >> 2. Slower-flowing water is better. I can think of two scenarios in which an increase in water flow rate might have a detrimental effect on cooling: 1. The higher speed creates eddies or backwaters in areas that would otherwise flow continuously, or 2. The extra heat produced by the motor laboring to push the water faster exceeds the cooling benefit of the increased flow. Both seem fairly plausible. In fact, #2 HAS to happen at some point because cooling rate is an aymptotic function of flow speed, while the energy required to pump is closer to an exponential. So... slow is bad AND fast is bad. Must be an optimal flow speed somewhere in the middle, different for every car. Maybe the Tiger's optimum speed is actually somewhere near the stock configuration. On the other hand, as Randall pointed out, they didn't actually MEASURE flow speed, only inferred it... so, who knows? Many apologies if this has already been covered (I'm in digest mode). -Nick 64-ish TR4 Vancouver BC From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Sep 28 17:29:53 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 00:29:53 +0100 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page References: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><000901c801c0$9e8b3150$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F8A5@spottswoode.lctax.ads> Message-ID: <004d01c80227$793d26d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Well, I had a good look at that page - and none of it answers my questions. In the winter, I enjoy a good bracing walk in the hills near my home. Around lunchtime I usually fancy a can of hot soup - cream of chicken being one of my favourites. If the weather is fine and when I had my Triumph 2000, I used to strap a can of soup to the top of the inlet manifold and drive around for a bit to heat up the soup. I discovered - after quite a number of tests runs on fairly level ground that an 8 minute drive gave me warm soup but a 12 minute one usually exploded the can and I spent the rest of the day removing bits of chicken from the heat blanket on the bonnet underside. However, if I found myself in very hilly terrain, climbing one of the pre-war factory test hills (mostly 1 in 4 for a mile and a half) would give me piping hot soup in 4 minutes and explode the can in six minutes. The wild card was getting stuck in a traffic jam where I could go for 15 minutes in crawling traffic to get warm soup and 25 minutes for an 'exploder.' What I want to know from all this flow rate and temperature stuff is how long will it take me to heat a can of steak with onion gravy on the air cooled manifolds of my injection engine? Gentlemen, this is a serious question! I don't like vacuum flasks and heating my soup or Steak and onion gravy on a portable gas cooker has no appeal at all as I will probably be adding to someone else's carbon footprint. Jonmac From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Sep 28 17:41:13 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 23:41:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" Message-ID: <092820072341.22574.46FD9119000BFFD00000582E22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > Got home last night from class after about a 12 mile run on the freeway > doing about 70MPH and I noticed fluid in the battery tray liner when I > was checking for antifreeze leaks because I had replaced the radiator last > weekend. Turns out it's barrery acid (it ate the paper towel I was using to > wipe it out of the liner). Which raises a tangental question. I remember reading on the List some time back, that modern self-contained batteries don't leak acid like the old capped resevoir kind. Nevertheless, coming from that era, I'm condition to worry unless I have a plastic battery tray to protect the metal battery container on the TR3. I can't seem to find one of these. JC Whitney had one, but OOS. For probably no other reason than my piece of mind, I have an ugly patch of old innertube filling the gap. Anybody know where plastic trays are available? Terry Smith, '59 TR3 New Hampshire From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Fri Sep 28 17:43:59 2007 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 19:43:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Peerless barn find Message-ID: http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-RARE-BARN-FRESH-1959-PEERLESS-W0QQAdIdZ25080230 From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Sep 28 17:48:32 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 23:48:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] tri metal bearings Message-ID: <092820072348.17518.46FD92D000003B810000446E22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > > I just purchased +.010 rod and main bearings from TRF. I removed the TRF > > label from the side of the box and found a label that says "King". The > > bearing shells are are stamped with "Country". I also thought that this > > was curios. > > > > I checked on line and the King Bearing web site says nothing about any This reminds me of another question around bearings: was it 20K miles or 50K miles that it is recommended to change the rod bearings after a rebuild, using of course the original size you used for the rebuild? (I suppose that it would make best sense to ensure you use the same brand too, in order to accommodate any very minor differentiations between them?) Main bearings aren't touched, right? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 28 17:49:52 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 16:49:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: <004d01c80227$793d26d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><000901c801c0$9e8b3150$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us><8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F8A5@spottswoode.lctax.ads> <004d01c80227$793d26d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <062601c8022a$43717490$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > What I want to know from all this flow rate and temperature > stuff is how > long will it take me to heat a can of steak with onion gravy > on the air > cooled manifolds of my injection engine? That's a toughie ! Too many unknowns, especially when you factor in the chances of a traffic jam. Could you perhaps put the can somewhere with a bit more controlled temperature, say strapped to the thermostat housing ? Or, perhaps the soup inside a larger can with some water in it (making, in effect, a double boiler) ? What you really need is a temperature indicator ... like maybe a can with only a small amount of water and a tea kettle whistle attached. Sorry, that's about the best engineering I can manage at 5 o'clock on a Friday ... think I'll go home instead and put my TR3 MC bracket in the oven to bake. Then since the house will stink, we'll have to go out for dinner ... Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 28 17:57:06 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 16:57:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] tri metal bearings In-Reply-To: <092820072348.17518.46FD92D000003B810000446E22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <092820072348.17518.46FD92D000003B810000446E22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <062701c8022b$468aa600$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > This reminds me of another question around bearings: was it > 20K miles or 50K miles that it is recommended to change the > rod bearings after a rebuild, using of course the original > size you used for the rebuild? ISTR Mr Maclay (Haynes manual) recommended every 30k miles. Don't think the factory mentioned this at all. > (I suppose that it would make > best sense to ensure you use the same brand too, in order to > accommodate any very minor differentiations between them?) Shouldn't be necessary ... the crank is not matched to the diameter of the bearings. > Main bearings aren't touched, right? No mention of that by Mr. Maclay. However, they aren't hard to do at the same time. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 28 17:58:14 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 16:58:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" In-Reply-To: <092820072341.22574.46FD9119000BFFD00000582E22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <092820072341.22574.46FD9119000BFFD00000582E22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <062801c8022b$6ee77150$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Anybody know where plastic trays are available? Perhaps I don't understand. What's wrong with the ones sold by Moss, TRF, et al ? Randall From jmitch at snet.net Fri Sep 28 18:08:14 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 20:08:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Connecticut Jaguar show Message-ID: <46FD976E.5050607@snet.net> Does anyone know if the Connecticut Jaguar's Purr-In is on for Sunday, at Indian Wells in Shelton. Thanks, John Mitchell From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Sep 28 18:25:15 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 00:25:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" Message-ID: <092920070025.24488.46FD9B6B00062C4500005FA822120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > > Anybody know where plastic trays are available? > > Perhaps I don't understand. What's wrong with the ones sold by Moss, TRF, > et al ? Alack, the $50 versus the $8.00. :0) Terry From mrv8q at aim.com Fri Sep 28 18:32:12 2007 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 20:32:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Battery "Leaking" In-Reply-To: <092820072341.22574.46FD9119000BFFD00000582E22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <092820072341.22574.46FD9119000BFFD00000582E22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8C9D0474FC4F3FB-5B0-369C@MBLK-M04.sysops.aol.com> Anybody know where plastic trays are available? Terry Smith, '59 TR3 New Hampshire Terry, try a boat shop/marine supply. I got one for my TR6, size 24 battery(?) for about $12..... Best, Kevin Browne ________________________________________________________________________ Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- Unlimited storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. From jmitch at snet.net Fri Sep 28 18:34:05 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 20:34:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Pertronix installation Message-ID: <46FD9D7D.1060404@snet.net> In the directions for the pertronix unit, it says that for cars with a ballast resistor, the red wire should be connected between the ballast resistor and the ignition switch. On a late model TR6 it's buried in the wiring harness. Has anyone done this, or should I just connect it to the coil? Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 28 19:54:08 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 18:54:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pertronix installation In-Reply-To: <46FD9D7D.1060404@snet.net> Message-ID: <20070929015407.DKHR660.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > In the directions for the pertronix unit, it says that for > cars with a ballast resistor, the red wire should be > connected between the ballast resistor and the ignition > switch. On a late model TR6 it's buried in the wiring > harness. Has anyone done this, or should I just connect it > to the coil? While I have not done it, I believe Pertronix has good reason for specifying that the module gets a full 12v. Their troubleshooting procedure even says that low voltage to the module is the most common problem. Easiest solution is probably to run a new wire from the red wire of the Pertronix over to the white wire at the fuse block. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 29 00:41:11 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 00:41:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] FW: Best Book for TR Restorers? Message-ID: <20070929064033.1FE751879CA@autox.team.net> Am getting ready to embark on the restoration of the TR3, I am a fair mechanic and will do most of my own work over the coming year, except for paint & body. I have looked at MANY sites of cars during their restoration, most probably from folks on this list, is there a good book or document that you have found to be helpful just to be sure that everything gets checked off in the proper order? I have seen the book "How to restore a Triumph TR2-3A" by Roger Williams (forward by Bill Piggott), one review at Amazon complained about the lack of details. Any recommendations? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007 5:00 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007 5:00 PM From auprichard at comcast.net Sat Sep 29 05:53:24 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 07:53:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: Best Book for TR Restorers? In-Reply-To: <20070929064033.1FE751879CA@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000801c8028f$573e51e0$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> He has a second one called "How to improve Triumph TR2 - 4A" - but that was all I was able to find. Let us know if you come across anything. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 2:41 AM To: 'list Triumph' Subject: [TR] FW: Best Book for TR Restorers? Am getting ready to embark on the restoration of the TR3, I am a fair mechanic and will do most of my own work over the coming year, except for paint & body. I have looked at MANY sites of cars during their restoration, most probably from folks on this list, is there a good book or document that you have found to be helpful just to be sure that everything gets checked off in the proper order? I have seen the book "How to restore a Triumph TR2-3A" by Roger Williams (forward by Bill Piggott), one review at Amazon complained about the lack of details. Any recommendations? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007 5:00 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007 5:00 PM This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 29 07:06:16 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 13:06:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: <004d01c80227$793d26d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><000901c801c0$9e8b3150$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F8A5@spottswoode.lctax.ads> <004d01c80227$793d26d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: The heating time for steak and gravy soup is a function of engine operating temperature, coolant viscosity, air flow rate through your radiator, type of fuel being burned, and the relative density of the ambient air. To arrive at the proper time for heating steak and gravy soup use the formulae: temperature of soup = f engine operating temperature = t coolant viscosity = c air flow rate through the radiator = a type of fuel being burned = g relative density of the ambient air = d f = (c * a) ---------- * t (g - d) Thus f(g - d) = (c * a) * t and f(c * a) = t -------- (g - d) Or find a nice little cafe to stop at and eat some fresh soup. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ News, entertainment and everything you care about at Live.com. Get it now! http://www.live.com/getstarted.aspx From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Sep 29 10:54:18 2007 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 09:54:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Michelin 185-15 X red lines References: Message-ID: <000e01c802b9$600736f0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Michelin X Red Line Tube tires (Made in France). I cannot find date code on the tires, marked Made in France, I bet they are very old. Tires are tube type, no signs of dry rot or cracks cracks inside and out. Since I am pushing the car on "bogging" issue I am concerned about tire safety. So, I am considering saving these and going with new wheels/tires for fun driving. Panasport wheels, why racing only? Will they not survive a pot hole hit? Regards, Bob From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Sep 29 09:19:27 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 16:19:27 +0100 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page References: <056801c80130$40a98a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><000901c801c0$9e8b3150$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us><8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F8A5@spottswoode.lctax.ads> <004d01c80227$793d26d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <007e01c802ac$20b25e10$0201a8c0@Bevan> I had an interesting chat today on the 'phone with one of my old S-T chums who worked in engineering to see if there was any math involved in calculating cooling properties in our cars, bearing in mind my soup heating problem is likely to haunt me till I die :) His reply wasn't at all technical but went along these lines. "Well, we knew that the water pump we used on most of the engines would shift a given amount of water at specific engine speeds, so as long as we continued down that road, things would be OK. We also liked to use type 4 thermostats (whatever they are - because he couldn't remember their opening temps) and we also knew a given radiator size with a core spec as per usual, would be OK too, so we stuck with that as well. Oh, yes - we also measured the under-bonnet temperature as well to ensure the fuel didn't pre-vapourise - but that was all a bit ad-hoc. If things got a bit too hot, we'd use a cooler stat. If that wasn't enough, we'd then throw a tropical rad spec at the car to solve the problem and maybe make the pump pully smaller to turn the impellor faster. It was all a bit of a compromise, really - but the acid test was that if the b*****r didn't boil in the UK or the south of Italy, it'd be OK for the rest of the world and provided there was no special tooling required or oddball ideas for ultra-tropical rads, the bean counters would be happy as well." When I asked what "aymptotic function" formulae might have been used, there was a brief silence followed by the comment "don't be filthy!" FWIW ::)) Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: tom white To: John Macartney ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 2:06 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page The heating time for steak and gravy soup is a function of engine operating temperature, coolant viscosity, air flow rate through your radiator, type of fuel being burned, and the relative density of the ambient air. To arrive at the proper time for heating steak and gravy soup use the formulae: temperature of soup = f engine operating temperature = t coolant viscosity = c air flow rate through the radiator = a type of fuel being burned = g relative density of the ambient air = d f = (c * a) ---------- * t (g - d) Thus f(g - d) = (c * a) * t and f(c * a) = t -------- (g - d) Or find a nice little cafe to stop at and eat some fresh soup. Best regards, Tom ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Get news, entertainment and everything you care about at Live.com. Check it out! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 29 09:28:24 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 08:28:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Michelin 185-15 X red lines In-Reply-To: <000e01c802b9$600736f0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <20070929152824.KECL6229.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > Panasport wheels, why racing only? Will they not survive a > pot hole hit? Who said they were for racing only ? Lots of folks around here run Panasports on the street, and they seem happy with them. Typically, alloy wheels will break rather than bend when stressed beyond their limits. But a pot hole big enough to bend/break the rim is going to ruin the tire anyway, so this doesn't seem like much of a disadvantage. Randall From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 29 11:08:08 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 10:08:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Michelin 185-15 X red lines References: <20070929152824.KECL6229.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <02f201c802bb$5012fa20$210110ac@MIKESDELL> I am not an expert by any means but I have a Marcos with Panasport wheels. I bought the wheels new and wanted a special "back spacing". The back spacing I wanted was only available in the "for racing only" version of the Panasports. The dealer, who specializes in racing tires and wheels, explained that there were two essential difference in these wheels and the regular Panasports. The "for racing only" wheels were a lot lighter (I forget how much) and thus less tolerant than the regular Panasport wheels to various types of "road rash" like hitting curbs, large pot holes etc. The second difference was the "for racing only" version wasn't made to accept a center cap and didn't come with a center cap. I have had the "for racing only" wheels on the Marcos for about 5 years and am on my second set of tires with no problems. I drive the car on the street and on the track. Personally, I don't and wouldn't worry about using the "for racing only" wheels on the street... unless you are one of the inept drivers that does hit curbs etc on a regular basis. Mike Denman ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 8:28 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Michelin 185-15 X red lines >> Panasport wheels, why racing only? Will they not survive a >> pot hole hit? > > Who said they were for racing only ? Lots of folks around here run > Panasports on the street, and they seem happy with them. > > Typically, alloy wheels will break rather than bend when stressed beyond > their limits. But a pot hole big enough to bend/break the rim is going to > ruin the tire anyway, so this doesn't seem like much of a disadvantage. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > mikedenman at sbcglobal.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Sep 29 12:24:39 2007 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 11:24:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: Best Book for TR Restorers? In-Reply-To: <000801c8028f$573e51e0$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> References: <000801c8028f$573e51e0$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <46FE9867.9010504@comcast.net> I have got both books and find that I refer to them frequently. My car was a rust bucket, and the restoration book has been very helpful while doing the body repair work. I have been using the improve book as I prepare to rebuild the suspension and engine. It's been a good reference regarding fairly simple improvements. Mike Andrew Uprichard wrote: > He has a second one called "How to improve Triumph TR2 - 4A" - but that was > all I was able to find. Let us know if you come across anything. > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > wbeech > Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 2:41 AM > To: 'list Triumph' > Subject: [TR] FW: Best Book for TR Restorers? > > Am getting ready to embark on the restoration of the TR3, I am a fair > mechanic and will do most of my own work over the coming year, except for > paint & body. > > I have looked at MANY sites of cars during their restoration, most probably > from folks on this list, is there a good book or document that you have > found to be helpful just to be sure that everything gets checked off in the > proper order? > > I have seen the book "How to restore a Triumph TR2-3A" by Roger Williams > (forward by Bill Piggott), one review at Amazon complained about the lack of > details. > > Any recommendations? > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) > "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007 > 5:00 PM > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007 > 5:00 PM > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sat Sep 29 11:27:06 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 13:27:06 EDT Subject: [TR] Michelin 185-15 X red lines Message-ID: In a message dated 9/29/2007 10:07:27 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mikedenman at sbcglobal.net writes: I am not an expert by any means but I have a Marcos with Panasport wheels. I bought the wheels new and wanted a special "back spacing". The back spacing I wanted was only available in the "for racing only" version of the Panasports. The dealer, who specializes in racing tires and wheels, explained that there were two essential difference in these wheels and the regular Panasports. The "for racing only" wheels were a lot lighter (I forget how much) and thus less tolerant than the regular Panasport wheels to various types of "road rash" like hitting curbs, large pot holes etc. The second difference was the "for racing only" version wasn't made to accept a center cap and didn't come with a center cap. I have had the "for racing only" wheels on the Marcos for about 5 years and am on my second set of tires with no problems. I drive the car on the street and on the track. Personally, I don't and wouldn't worry about using the "for racing only" wheels on the street... unless you are one of the inept drivers that does hit curbs etc on a regular basis. Mike Denman Back in the 60's I designed a wheel which went into manufacture as one of the early "sport wheels"and was widely sold. It had to pass an OEM test , I understood, for liability reasons. Passing the test required some minor but expensive redesign and tooling changes. The manufacturer could have sold them "for racing only" and had some defense if one failed on the street. Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 29 11:44:09 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 10:44:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Michelin 185-15 X red lines References: Message-ID: <000801c802c0$58406250$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Obviously your are correct in your implication that the "for racing only" means that the wheel probably doesn't comply and probably wouldn't pass the OEM test. I should have included that in my email as well. Good point. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: MMoore8425 at aol.com To: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net ; tr3driver at ca.rr.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 10:27 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Michelin 185-15 X red lines In a message dated 9/29/2007 10:07:27 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mikedenman at sbcglobal.net writes: I am not an expert by any means but I have a Marcos with Panasport wheels. I bought the wheels new and wanted a special "back spacing". The back spacing I wanted was only available in the "for racing only" version of the Panasports. The dealer, who specializes in racing tires and wheels, explained that there were two essential difference in these wheels and the regular Panasports. The "for racing only" wheels were a lot lighter (I forget how much) and thus less tolerant than the regular Panasport wheels to various types of "road rash" like hitting curbs, large pot holes etc. The second difference was the "for racing only" version wasn't made to accept a center cap and didn't come with a center cap. I have had the "for racing only" wheels on the Marcos for about 5 years and am on my second set of tires with no problems. I drive the car on the street and on the track. Personally, I don't and wouldn't worry about using the "for racing only" wheels on the street... unless you are one of the inept drivers that does hit curbs etc on a regular basis. Mike Denman Back in the 60's I designed a wheel which went into manufacture as one of the early "sport wheels"and was widely sold. It had to pass an OEM test , I understood, for liability reasons. Passing the test required some minor but expensive redesign and tooling changes. The manufacturer could have sold them "for racing only" and had some defense if one failed on the street. Mike Moore ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage. From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Sep 29 11:43:48 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 10:43:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Michelin 185-15 X red lines In-Reply-To: <000e01c802b9$600736f0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <000e01c802b9$600736f0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: Bob, I've a set just like it on my TR6, about to be replaced next week for safety concerns and driving it to Triumphest 10/11-14. The last time I had the car at Discount Tire to have a tube replaced they told me mine were probably made in 94 since the year code was a 4 on the tire. Since I know the car was not on the road in 94 they must be 1984. My code (after the word DOT) is FHTJ A8NX464. They told me it's the last 3 numbers that are the date code. For mine it's the 464 or the 46th week of year 4. Yes, mine are in good shape as well. They really went over the tires once we figured out just how old there are. They still have decent tread. I hate to turn them in next week when I buy new but I don't have a need to two sets of tires. Marty Clark Gilbert AZ On 9/29/07, Bob wrote: > > Michelin X Red Line Tube tires (Made in France). > I cannot find date code on the tires, marked Made in France, I bet they > are very old. > Tires are tube type, no signs of dry rot or cracks cracks inside and out. > Since I am pushing the car on "bogging" issue I am concerned about tire > safety. > So, I am considering saving these and going with new wheels/tires for fun > driving. > Panasport wheels, why racing only? Will they not survive a pot hole hit? > Regards, > Bob From bielings at comcast.net Sat Sep 29 15:45:18 2007 From: bielings at comcast.net (PBieling) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 17:45:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Distributer Message-ID: <000a01c802e2$07868520$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> My 59 TR3A is having timing problems. The weights for the advance in my distributor are worn out. The holes that they pivot on are elongated. This give me an irregular centrifugal advance. Moss says the weights are NA. Where do I get them? Peter Bieling From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Sep 29 16:17:15 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 18:17:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] SpeedWOE Message-ID: <8C9D0FDA04B3E7A-928-C56A@webmail-da19.sysops.aol.com> Hi List, No, that isnt a typo and I am not imitating Elmer Fudd.? After converting my 4 speed gearbox to OD with a Volvo J-Type OD I am trying to get the speedo to read the correct speed.? Today I replaced the speedo gear to try to get my speedo to read accurately.? There was an 18 tooth gear and I replaced it with a 20 tooth gear.? No such luck.? It still reads at least 10mph or so high.? It was hard to tell since it was bouncing quite a bit.? Or at least it was bouncing until it stopped completely.? Not sure what is wrong but I pulled the end of the cable off the speedo and driving the car in the driveway did not turn the speedo cable.? So I am guessing that the speedo cable either broke somewhere or the speedo gear I replaced failed.? Insert heavy sigh here.? Time to explore again and figure out what is going on.? I had a tough time getting the speedo end of the cable off the end of the speedo.? I am wondering if the cable seized in the speedo causing the cable to break somewhere.? Sound possible?? Any thoughts welcome. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Sep 29 16:33:56 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 18:33:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gunst & Borg & Beck Update Message-ID: <8C9D0FFF4E0DE87-928-C5B5@webmail-da19.sysops.aol.com> Hi List, As promised I wanted to update everyone on the results of installing a Borg & Beck bent finger clutch with the Gunst bearing.? It has been about 500 miles since the new J-Type OD was installed and I am happy to report that to this point there is no problems with the installation or the combination of components.? I did take great care to install the clutch using the included dowel pins to make sure everything was in the right position and I did use a clutch centering tool also.? I can detect no noise coming from the clutch nor any squealing.? The feel is a bit different than before but it hasnt been difficult adjusting to the change.? The clutch is much easier to operate and the point where the clutch catches is quite a bit higher than before (it caught as it left the floor before the Gunst).? The flywheel was lightened and to me the car seems to rev faster, though not all that much. The only problem I have had is shifting into third gear if I really run hard through the gears.? If I do then there is a little bit of a grind right as I shift into third.? This doesnt happen if the car has just been started up.? It doesnt happen if I shift slowly and am careful to make sure I shift all the way to the right before moving the gear shift forward to engage 3rd gear. I suspect the problem is the syncro for that gear.? I did replace the syncros when I put the OD in but they were a set from ebay and though they looked just fine when compared to the old ones I wonder if there s a problem with the 3rd gear syncro. Any and all opinions and/or comments are welcome. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From DLylis at aol.com Sat Sep 29 16:34:52 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 18:34:52 EDT Subject: [TR] FW: Best Book for TR Restorers? Message-ID: I have "rounded the bend", so to speak with my 3A resto and I recommend using the "how to restor" for detail in what to look for, etc. but use the Bentley for the details. I don't know that you can adequately cover this project in 192 pages even though it is "now in colour". David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 29 17:21:10 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 16:21:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Distributer In-Reply-To: <000a01c802e2$07868520$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> Message-ID: <20070929232109.HZNI6229.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > My 59 TR3A is having timing problems. > The weights for the advance in my distributor are worn out. > The holes that they pivot on are elongated. > This give me an irregular centrifugal advance. > Moss says the weights are NA. Where do I get them? I don't know, but if the holes in the weights are worn out, most likely so are the pins they pivot on. I'd send the whole thing in to be rebuilt. And then remember to put a drop of oil under the rotor at every oil change. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 29 17:29:23 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 17:29:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Distributer In-Reply-To: <000a01c802e2$07868520$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> Message-ID: <20070929232957.D8E2F187A33@autox.team.net> I have never used this guy but it looks like he has all the replacements parts for Lucas Dizzys, including the weights & springs. http://www.distributordoctor.com/distributor_advance_weights.htm Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PBieling Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 3:45 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Distributer My 59 TR3A is having timing problems. The weights for the advance in my distributor are worn out. The holes that they pivot on are elongated. This give me an irregular centrifugal advance. Moss says the weights are NA. Where do I get them? Peter Bieling _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1037 - Release Date: 9/29/2007 1:32 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1037 - Release Date: 9/29/2007 1:32 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 29 18:13:23 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 17:13:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] SpeedWOE In-Reply-To: <8C9D0FDA04B3E7A-928-C56A@webmail-da19.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20070930001322.KRMK6229.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > It was hard to tell since it was > bouncing quite a bit.? Sign of a bad speedo head or cable, rather than gear problems, IMO. > Or at least it was bouncing until it > stopped completely.? Not sure what is wrong but I pulled the > end of the cable off the speedo and driving the car in the > driveway did not turn the speedo cable.? So I am guessing > that the speedo cable either broke somewhere or the speedo > gear I replaced failed.? Most likely (unfortunately) the angle adapter died. Weakest link and all that. > I am wondering if the cable seized in the speedo > causing the cable to break somewhere.? Could well be. The Stag I bought last year had exactly this problem. He had just replaced the cable & angle adapter, but it was really the speedo head that was bad. After driving for a bit, the dry bushing inside the head got hot and bound even more, causing the angle adapter to break. Problem was obvious once I got the speedo head out, since spinning it by hand showed it was much stiffer than it should be. Also check that your inner speedo cable doesn't protrude too far on the head end. I've heard stories of them being too long and putting pressure on the movement, with similar results. BTW, your speedo will probably still be inaccurate after you get it all back together. There is another drive gear inside the J-type that I believe is different between the Volvo & TR6. Unfortunately you have to disassemble the annulus housing to get to it; so it's probably easier to buy a ratio adapter to go in the cable between OD & speedo head. A local shop quoted me $100 a few years back (including the new section of cable between box & speedo), but it's probably more now. Randall From bielings at comcast.net Sat Sep 29 18:22:53 2007 From: bielings at comcast.net (PBieling) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 20:22:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Distributer Message-ID: <000801c802f8$0afc9710$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> Thanx that was the perfect supplier. Pete Bieling From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 29 18:35:58 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 17:35:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gunst & Borg & Beck Update In-Reply-To: <8C9D0FFF4E0DE87-928-C5B5@webmail-da19.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20070930003558.YPBJ14677.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > I suspect the problem is the syncro for that gear.? I did > replace the syncros when I put the OD in but they were a set > from ebay and though they looked just fine when compared to > the old ones I wonder if there s a problem with the 3rd gear syncro. There have been a bunch of bad synchro rings running around. AFAIK no one has been able to pin-point what the problem is, they just don't work very well in some gearboxes. However, did you check the force required to move the shift hub ? That force is what operates the synchros, and I believe it's fairly critical. The springs seem to get weak with heat and age and then the synchros don't work as well. If it's any consolation, I have the same problem on the Stag gearbox I just went through. I did check the shift hub force, but since 3/4 was within range (barely) I left it alone. 1/2 was below the range, so I added shims (which took it to the top of the range) and now 1/2 is a bit notchy but never grinds even when I crowd 2nd. Randall From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sat Sep 29 19:09:35 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 21:09:35 EDT Subject: [TR] Michelin 185-15 X red lines Message-ID: In a message dated 9/29/07 1:06:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, mikedenman at sbcglobal.net writes: << Panasports. The "for racing only" wheels were a lot lighter (I forget how much) >> The other issue with thin race wheels is fatigue life. Race wheels are regularly checked for cracks ( well they should be ), give limited number of races before they are lifed or taken out of service due to contact with a object whose vector is of differing velocity or / and direction. Harold ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Sep 28 20:51:45 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 22:51:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Testing by dropping the car from 6" off the ground? Message-ID: <004f01c80303$f1edfc30$1194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am writing this even though my ISP is experiencing problems so it maybe a while before it gets sent. I've asked basic welding questions before, but, after seeing a friend's car I still have doubt in both my equipment (the welder is now broke) and doubt in my welding skill. In my TR3, I installed new floorpans, inner and outer sills, and patch panels for the side-footwell panel and front-footwell panel which is just in front of the pedals. Although both A & B posts 'look ok' and have been adjusted for the correct door gap, etc. I wonder if there might be something I can do to 'test' my welds? I wonder if it wouldn't be prudent to knock the car off a carefully positioned jack at a height of 6 inches above the ground? First this would be done to the rear wheels and then done to the front wheels. After performing such a radical 'drop' procedure, a close inspection of all joints would be made. Do others think that dropping it from 6 inches is too much or not enough? I am serious about this and want others input. I am not wanting to hurt the car, but, only to do a last-resort-type-test before it gets put on the road. (Although the complete welded-up car has sat outside my house for over a year.) It maybe 5-6 more months before it is street legal and this would be done.) Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Sep 29 20:13:13 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 20:13:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Testing by dropping the car from 6" off the ground? In-Reply-To: <004f01c80303$f1edfc30$1194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <004f01c80303$f1edfc30$1194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <46FF0639.7020801@tscusa.org> Paul Dorsey wrote: > I've asked basic welding questions before, but, after seeing a friend's car I > still have doubt in both my equipment (the welder is now broke) and doubt in > my welding skill. > > > I wonder if it wouldn't be prudent to knock the car off a carefully positioned > jack at a height of 6 inches above the ground? First this would be done to > the rear wheels and then done to the front wheels. > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 > Paul, There are two ways to test a weld, one is a destructive test, the other is an x-ray. I would not do a drop test because that is like a crash and you risk disturbing another seam somewhere hidden. Take a look at your beads at the point between the two pieces of metal. If they are smooth with some evenly spaced (mostly) ripples, no blow through, trust yourself. You have done well. If you want a confidence test, take two pieces of your surplus sheet steel, weld them together, then go beat the begeevies out of it with a sledge hammer, or put one side in the vice and try to peel the other one away from it, or try bending it right at the weld 60 times. If the beads look like a pile of bubbled steel splattered intermittently and widely, just go and perfect your technique on some flat steel then go back, grind off your old welds and do them again. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Sep 29 21:00:33 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 23:00:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gunst & Borg & Beck Update In-Reply-To: <20070930003558.YPBJ14677.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <8C9D12533B9FA04-928-CAA7@webmail-da19.sysops.aol.com> Hi Randall, Thanks for your informative response.? Unfortunately, I did not check the force required.? Honestly, I was too ignorant to know to check.? Also unfortnately, I cant figure out if that is the problem without removing the gearbox and doing surgery.? I will drive with it for a bit and monitor it to see if it gets better or worse. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 8:35 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Gunst & Borg & Beck Update > I suspect the problem is the syncro for that gear.? I did > replace the syncros when I put the OD in but they were a set > from ebay and though they looked just fine when compared to > the old ones I wonder if there s a problem with the 3rd gear syncro. There have been a bunch of bad synchro rings running around. AFAIK no one has been able to pin-point what the problem is, they just don't work very well in some gearboxes. However, did you check the force required to move the shift hub ? That force is what operates the synchros, and I believe it's fairly critical. The springs seem to get weak with heat and age and then the synchros don't work as well. If it's any consolation, I have the same problem on the Stag gearbox I just went through. I did check the shift hub force, but since 3/4 was within range (barely) I left it alone. 1/2 was below the range, so I added shims (which took it to the top of the range) and now 1/2 is a bit notchy but never grinds even when I crowd 2nd. Randall ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sat Sep 29 21:03:26 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 23:03:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Distributer References: <20070929232957.D8E2F187A33@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <003601c8030e$790e39a0$97157247@fred8kwiskhcfu> >I have never used this guy but it looks like he has all the replacements > parts for Lucas Dizzys, including the weights & springs. > > http://www.distributordoctor.com/distributor_advance_weights.htm =[=============================================================================== BPNW has a sale on new dist, for a complete rebuild I would go with "Advanced Dist. "FT" From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Sep 29 21:17:23 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 23:17:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] SpeedWOE In-Reply-To: <20070930001322.KRMK6229.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <8C9D1278DF928B1-928-CAF5@webmail-da19.sysops.aol.com> Randall, Once again, thanks for sharing your experience.? I had not heard that the right angle drive was the weak link.? I suspect that the head in the speedo is bad and that the reason that the cable was sticking was heat related caused by too much friction by a dry bushing. I am confident that the cable did not protrude too far into the speedo.? From previous posts to the list I made sure of the length of this portion of the cable. As for the inaccuracy, with Vance's and a few other listers help I am hopeful that I installed the correct components in the gearbox.? I will have to do some research to see if I have the correct set-up. Thanks again, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 8:13 pm Subject: Re: [TR] SpeedWOE > It was hard to tell since it was > bouncing quite a bit.? Sign of a bad speedo head or cable, rather than gear problems, IMO. > Or at least it was bouncing until it > stopped completely.? Not sure what is wrong but I pulled the > end of the cable off the speedo and driving the car in the > driveway did not turn the speedo cable.? So I am guessing > that the speedo cable either broke somewhere or the speedo > gear I replaced failed.? Most likely (unfortunately) the angle adapter died. Weakest link and all that. > I am wondering if the cable seized in the speedo > causing the cable to break somewhere.? Could well be. The Stag I bought last year had exactly this problem. He had just replaced the cable & angle adapter, but it was really the speedo head that was bad. After driving for a bit, the dry bushing inside the head got hot and bound even more, causing the angle adapter to break. Problem was obvious once I got the speedo head out, since spinning it by hand showed it was much stiffer than it should be. Also check that your inner speedo cable doesn't protrude too far on the head end. I've heard stories of them being too long and putting pressure on the movement, with similar results. BTW, your speedo will probably still be inaccurate after you get it all back together. There is another drive gear inside the J-type that I believe is different between the Volvo & TR6. Unfortunately you have to disassemble the annulus housing to get to it; so it's probably easier to buy a ratio adapter to go in the cable between OD & speedo head. A local shop quoted me $100 a few years back (including the new section of cable between box & speedo), but it's probably more now. Randall ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 29 23:10:43 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 22:10:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing by dropping the car from 6" off the ground? In-Reply-To: <46FF0639.7020801@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <20070930051043.VNKQ660.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > If you > want a confidence test, take two pieces of your surplus sheet > steel, weld them together, then go beat the begeevies out of > it with a sledge hammer, or put one side in the vice and try > to peel the other one away from it, or try bending it right > at the weld 60 times. This is basically standard practice when learning to weld. Make a weld then test it to destruction. If the weld fails before the metal on either side, you didn't do it right and you have to do it again until it's right. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sun Sep 30 05:16:17 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 07:16:17 EDT Subject: [TR] Testing by dropping the car from 6" off the ground? Message-ID: Given that the 3A is a body over chassis, I don't know that dropping it any amount is going to establish anything about body panel welds. You would likely only succeed in proving the durability (or not) of your suspension. I would not do this. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Sun Sep 30 06:58:51 2007 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 08:58:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page Message-ID: <46ff9d8b.6a.4d77.32658@cogeco.ca> > > The water must stay in the radiator long enough to cool. > > And as the water cools in the radiator (and warms in the block) the > rate of heat transfer from (or to) the water slows down. > > > If it moves too fast it will return to the engine too hot to help. > > And if it stays in the radiator (or engine) too long it will become > too cool (or too warm) to help. Intellectually I agree with the above but... My rad got punctured a couple of years ago so I got it re-cored at a local shop and had them omit the hand crank hole, so theoretically I should have more cooling surface with 40 years less crud built up on it. My original 3-impeller water pump started sounded like a coffee grinder this spring so I replaced it with a 6-impeller unit (curved impellers too), so theoretically I should have more water flow. More surface + more flow = better cooling right? >From my detailed measurements based on the best available data (temperature gauge, co-driver happiness, post-drive beer intake), my 3A is running considerably hotter then before. Any stop/go traffic will send it above 200f, and unless it ambient temperature is similar to it's native land (cold/damp) it won't come down significantly once back out on the open road. Prior to the upgrades this wasn't an issue. I've tried bending the fan blades to get more pitch and am considering getting a stone guard to help ensure the fan's drawing the air through the rad and not around it. But if this global warming thing is for real I'm seriously thinking of selling the thing.... Art From twakeman at razzolink.com Sun Sep 30 07:20:24 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 06:20:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: <46ff9d8b.6a.4d77.32658@cogeco.ca> References: <46ff9d8b.6a.4d77.32658@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <46FFA298.10801@razzolink.com> amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote: my 3A is running considerably hotter then before. Do you have an original grille or an aftermarket one? Most aftermarket ones have 25% less area between the slats for air flow. Have you checked your timing? retarded timing or a sticky advance that doesn't always return will cause overheating as described. TeriAnn From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Sep 30 07:51:05 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 09:51:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Testing by dropping the car from 6" off the ground? References: Message-ID: <000d01c80368$f43b2ca0$2e94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Ya'll are correct. I am wrong. Also- my welder was crappy, my test welds looked crappy but held, kinda. I think I am a democrat. The door gaps look good. I think the four welds that I am most concerned about are the 'a' & 'b' post weld's' on each side (down on the inner sills). Is there a way to strengthen them? I am not opposed to letting a professional do it at this point. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From BearTranserv at aol.com Sun Sep 30 08:16:36 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 10:16:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Gunst & Borg & Beck Update Message-ID: In a message dated 9/29/2007 9:01:07 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, acekraut11 at aol.com writes: Also unfortnately, I cant figure out if that is the problem without removing the gearbox and doing surgery.? I will drive with it for a bit and monitor it to see if it gets better or worse. Aaron Now's a good time to learn to double clutch Aaron. My Ford pick up has 3rd gear synchro getting sloppy and a straight shift from second to third will grind. A momentary pause in neutral on the way to third, while letting the clutch peddle up briefly, makes the shift smooth and quiet. I spent a few years driving 10 speed trucks, most of the time not using the clutch except to start moving ( I don't suggest this in our cars) and learning to double clutch as necessary, going up and down the gears. Try it, and with practice, it will become second nature and you can put off the transmission work for some time. Robert Houston ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From BearTranserv at aol.com Sun Sep 30 08:19:57 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 10:19:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page Message-ID: In a message dated 9/30/2007 7:00:07 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca writes: But if this global warming thing is for real I'm seriously thinking of selling the thing.... Art Uh yeah, it's for real, and you should dump it cheap right away. I'd give you $1000 sight unseen. ;=) RBH ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From BearTranserv at aol.com Sun Sep 30 08:22:47 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 10:22:47 EDT Subject: [TR] Testing by dropping the car from 6" off the ground? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/30/2007 7:51:26 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, dorpaul at negia.net writes: I think I am a democrat. There's your problem .... just kidding. If you are really worried about this, it shouldn't cost much to have a professional welder stop by and check the welds, and he can give you an estimate for redoing anything he finds wrong. Peace of mind is worth a few bucks. RBH ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Sun Sep 30 09:40:32 2007 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 11:40:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: <46FFA298.10801@razzolink.com> References: <46ff9d8b.6a.4d77.32658@cogeco.ca> <46FFA298.10801@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <46FFC370.1080501@cogeco.ca> TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > > > amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote: > my 3A is running considerably hotter then before. > > Do you have an original grille or an aftermarket one? > > Most aftermarket ones have 25% less area between the slats for air flow. Aftermarket, where as before I had an original.. > > Have you checked your timing? retarded timing or a sticky advance > that doesn't always return will cause overheating as described. I've been dicking with the timing in order to get it to start on cool days in the spring/fall so that might be a contributing factor. BTW with the 3/8 from the pully hole timing method where should the vacuum advance wheel be at the start of the process? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 30 09:45:30 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 08:45:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page In-Reply-To: <46FFC370.1080501@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <20070930154530.BSHP14677.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > BTW with the 3/8 from the pully hole timing method where > should the vacuum advance wheel be at the start of the process? If you are going to measure the 3/8", then you should set the vernier to center. But if you are going to time on the hole as the book says, then the vernier is two marks retarded when the hole lines up with the pointer. IMO this is only an initial adjustment anyway. Do a road test for final adjustment. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 30 09:50:53 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 11:50:53 EDT Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page Message-ID: In a message dated 9/30/2007 7:59:52 AM Central Daylight Time, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca writes: > From my detailed measurements based on the best available data (temperature > gauge, co-driver happiness, post-drive beer > intake), my 3A is running considerably hotter then before. Any stop/go > traffic will send it above 200f, and unless it > ambient temperature is similar to it's native land (cold/damp) it won't come > down significantly once back out on the > open road. Prior to the upgrades this wasn't an issue. > Did you replace the thermostat. I've had thermostats not work after an overheating episode. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 30 09:57:21 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 11:57:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page Message-ID: In a message dated 9/28/2007 6:32:19 PM Central Daylight Time, standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: > Gentlemen, this is a serious question! I don't like vacuum flasks and > heating my soup or Steak and onion gravy on a portable gas cooker has no > appeal at all as I will probably be adding to someone else's carbon > footprint. > John, you need to find a cooler spot so as to make your drive a longer one allowing you to enjoy more of the countryside before you dine. Perhaps the top radiator hose will work best. The temperature is thermostatically controlled so driving technique should have less effect on stewing times. And you can meet new friends at the waysides further out from home. You could make Stratford-upon-Avon and meet MacBeth! Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Sep 30 10:09:12 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 16:09:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] Testing by dropping the car from 6" off the ground? In-Reply-To: <004f01c80303$f1edfc30$1194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <004f01c80303$f1edfc30$1194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Hi Paul, Dropping the car is not a good test for welds. When I began building stock cars I had never welded a thing. I bought a MIG welder and set about trial and error learning. The car builder that I consulted with gave me a couple of tests. The ultimate test where you can use it is to hit the piece welded on with a good hammer blow. If it comes loose the weld is bad. The other test is strictly whether the piece loosens up with use. The car builder told me that if the piece don't fall off the car the welds are good enough. Best regards, Tom hs _________________________________________________________________ Explore the seven wonders of the world http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=7+wonders+world&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE From tbottman at earthlink.net Sun Sep 30 12:07:18 2007 From: tbottman at earthlink.net (Tom Bottman) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:07:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 electronic ignition Message-ID: I have just installed a Pertronix "Ignitor" ignition in my '74 TR6, along with a matching Flamethrower coil. It is a very easy installation, and the car started up promptly. However, it is running rough and I have determined that there is no spark at the #1 cylinder (at the front of the engine). I have changed spark plug, wire, and distributor cap - still no spark. The TR6 evidently has a ballast resistor (voltmeter tests indicate this). The Pertronix instructions show a hook up of the red wire going to the Ignitor into the resistor (so the resistor is between the coil and the Ignitor). Right now I have just attached the red wire directly to the coil. The resistor must be somewhere in the wire harness. Does anyone have any idea as to where????? And, would this improper hook up cause only one cylinder to fail? Thanks, Tom Bottman TR6, TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 30 13:06:12 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:06:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 electronic ignition In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070930190613.NJDT660.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > The resistor must be somewhere in the wire harness. Does > anyone have any idea as to where????? It's resistor wire, and runs through the harness from a joint (inside the harness) near the coil to a joint near the base of the steering column. Easier IMO to pick up the white wire at the fuse block. > And, would this improper hook up cause only one cylinder to fail? Not likely IMO, but possible. More likely, I think, that the magnet ring is defective (as several other people have mentioned getting bad magnet rings). Try turning the ring and see if the problem moves to a different cylinder. And as a quick test for low voltage being the problem, you could just temporarily remove the red wire from the coil and jumper it directly to the hot battery terminal. That effectively bypasses the coil (and switch). This is mentioned in the Pertronix trouble-shooting suggestions. Randall From jmerone at rocketmail.com Sun Sep 30 14:03:03 2007 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 13:03:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 top channel rubber Message-ID: <550254.57751.qm@web30912.mail.mud.yahoo.com> My question concerns the rubber strips that slide into the chrome channels on the sides of a TR6 top frame. Which way to these strips face when installed? They're shapped like a J with a smooth side and a notched side. Thanks, Joe Merone CF18928 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. http://travel.yahoo.com/ From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Sep 30 14:24:30 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 16:24:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Testing by dropping the car from 6" off the ground? References: <000d01c80368$f43b2ca0$2e94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <003a01c8039f$e97f5a20$2e94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am very satisfied with my door gaps. It's now been almost a year since I did them (ON MY STATIONARY CAR.) If the car comes down off it's scaffolding, I'll consider it 'driveway worthy'. If it makes it to the mailbox, it'll be road worth. One of my first stops, when (if) the car becomes functional, will be to the welding shop. If I make it there, then I proably won't need his help. The next stop I'll make will be to find a cheap tow service (swap phone no.s, etc.) Thanks, Paul From ray at raysmg.com Sun Sep 30 15:36:09 2007 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 14:36:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing by dropping the car from 6" off the ground? Message-ID: <20070930143609.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.c64aff85f1.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Paul wrote: "...The next stop I'll make will be to find a cheap tow service..." Next to my tool kit w/spare parts, the next items I make sure are on board are my cell phone and contact list. The contact list includes at least two local tow services with roll-back trucks. I'd suggest that you speak to them first and be sure you can request a roll-back rather than a boom type truck should you become stranded. Also, it may be well worth you while to pay for a year's membership with AAA. I think mine runs about a hundred bucks per year...doesn't take but one visit by the towing service to equal that. At least, or perhaps in addition, be sure your insurance coverage includes emergency road service/towing. Mine is less than $7 per year additional. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com -------- Original Message -------- From: "Paul Dorsey" Date: Sun, September 30, 2007 4:24 pm To: "list Triumph" I am very satisfied with my door gaps. It's now been almost a year since I did them (ON MY STATIONARY CAR.) If the car comes down off it's scaffolding, I'll consider it 'driveway worthy'. If it makes it to the mailbox, it'll be road worth. One of my first stops, when (if) the car becomes functional, will be to the welding shop. If I make it there, then I proably won't need his help. (swap phone no.s, etc.) Thanks, Paul _______________________________________________ ray at raysmg.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Sep 30 16:16:03 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 22:16:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] FW: Re: TR6 electronic ignition Message-ID: <093020072216.21165.4700202300055C93000052AD22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> -------------- Forwarded Message: -------------- From: terryrs at comcast.net To: Tom Bottman Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 electronic ignition Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 22:15:26 +0000 > I have just installed a Pertronix "Ignitor" ignition in my '74 TR6, along > with a matching Flamethrower coil. It is a very easy installation, and the > car started up promptly. However, it is running rough and I have determined > that there is no spark at the #1 cylinder (at the front of the engine). I > have changed spark plug, wire, and distributor cap - still no spark. Love talking about things I know nothing about, because when the flames start coming back, I learn everything I could possible want to know! I notice you didn't say you'd replaced the rotor. Given how vulnerable these are to failure these days, I wonder if the other three cylinders are on the edge, but holding their own, while that one cylinder is the first to fail? ...Or are rotors all-or-nothing type failures? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Sep 30 17:25:09 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 19:25:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr4 generator redux Message-ID: <200709301925.09201.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Well I just returned from daughter # 2's wedding weekend and other than a 50 mile drive in the driving rain Friday, the weekend was quite nice. Car ran great with replacement generator... A+. I had to put the top up for the ride up but to my surprise no rain at all in the interior! The top is an original AMCO I got on EBAY. NOS and NIB. Real nice top, great fit but believe it or not the car seems louder with the top and windows up than with just the tonneau. Anyway my daughter looked real nice. Perfect weekend in the Adirondacks. Lots of sun, plenty of color, but a bit too much beer! The proofs will be in Wednesday. Cant wait! Bob From DLylis at aol.com Sun Sep 30 17:16:23 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 19:16:23 EDT Subject: [TR] FW: Re: TR6 electronic ignition Message-ID: In a message dated 9/30/2007 5:16:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: ...Or are rotors all-or-nothing type failures? All, then waiting until the most inopportune moment, then nothing. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Sep 30 21:01:04 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 23:01:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Speedometer or Tachometer Cables Message-ID: <004901c803d7$4fd88120$2e94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, I thought there were some type of speedometer or tachometer 'keys' required for each of these cables in order for them to work. But, I can't find mention of them nor are they shown by Moss. How does one get the speedometer or tachometer cables to work without these things? Did I lose them? I had them on my Volvo, I think. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From wbeech at flash.net Sun Sep 30 21:15:30 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 21:15:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Speedometer or Tachometer Cables In-Reply-To: <004901c803d7$4fd88120$2e94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071001031545.4C63B187A27@autox.team.net> I have not looked at mine but the normal setup is the end of the internal cable is square and this fits into the gear unit at the tranny and the same fitting at the back of the spedo/tach head. I don't recall any keys from other cars, including my Volvo P-1800. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 9:01 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Speedometer or Tachometer Cables List, I thought there were some type of speedometer or tachometer 'keys' required for each of these cables in order for them to work. But, I can't find mention of them nor are they shown by Moss. How does one get the speedometer or tachometer cables to work without these things? Did I lose them? I had them on my Volvo, I think. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 9/29/2007 9:46 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 9/29/2007 9:46 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 30 21:38:07 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 20:38:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Speedometer or Tachometer Cables In-Reply-To: <004901c803d7$4fd88120$2e94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071001033808.BDTU14677.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > I thought there were some type of speedometer or tachometer > 'keys' required for each of these cables in order for them to > work. Not that I know of. > How does one get the speedometer or tachometer cables to work > without these things? There should be two threaded collars on the cables, one at each end. The larger one screws onto distributor/gearbox; the smaller one screws onto the back of the instrument. Randall From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Tue Sep 18 16:06:23 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 18:06:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] My worst car ever References: <091820071826.18914.46F0183C0005D39C000049E222007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><002c01c7fa22$61f2e990$6601a8c0@mike slaptop><004f01c7fa27$f0319bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <007901c7fa3d$6016e250$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <000001c8041c$3a57ff20$fa0e08d8@CPQ12949640186> Volvo had it as well, back before the 60's. Was interesting the first time I tangled with that, without realizing the car (Studebaker) had that. We certainly weren't slowing down, and being young, I was rather confused by it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 5:46 PM Subject: Re: [TR] My worst car ever >> But the real interesting innovation was the free-wheeling device that >> they > >> used. It was >> a simple roller/ramp affair that allows the roller bearings >> to roll freely >> in one direction but have to climb a ramp in the other >> direction. > > Of course Standard-Triumph never used anything like that, especially not > in > 1948 ... > > (Hint, there is a sprag clutch in every Laycock overdrive.) > > And American cars offered free wheeling long before 1960 as well. It was > eventually discontinued because it put more load on the (inadequate) > brakes > of the time. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > foxtrapper at aceweb.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From frogeye at swcp.com Tue Sep 25 11:11:25 2007 From: frogeye at swcp.com (david porter) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 11:11:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale Message-ID: <200709251711.l8PHBeX8050056@ame8.swcp.com> Car is sold. Thanks for the interest. Ill be unsubscribing now and going back to Healey list. Thanks all, Dave No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1023 - Release Date: 9/22/2007 1:27 PM From dkspence at telus.net Tue Sep 25 00:27:05 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 00:27:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4a ignition advance: Marcel Chichak's database In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5C0F3E3B-C6AA-47E5-89F1-5A7B2ED36C5A@telus.net> On Sep 24, 2007, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4a ignition advance Eric Frenken made the following comment > Tony and all, > > when using Marcel Chichak's list you should be aware of the continuous > faultiness of this list. I've told him more than once of these > faults and he > said he'll correct the list, as soon as his time permits, and that > this will > most likely not be in the near future. > > Eric > http://brits-n-pieces.com As Marcel is an old friend and lives nearby, I asked him to share some insight into the data base etc. The following is his response and is posted here with his permission. It is offered for information purposes only. If you have information that will assist in the further development of the database, please feel free to contact Marcel. Please don't be offended if you don't receive an immediate response as he is extremely busy renovating a newly acquired warehouse to accommodate his cars and shop. "The Lucas Distributor Database is something I started building about 10 years ago and have been working on ever since. The original seed data was a 1972 SpeedSport book "Tuning Lucas Distributor Systems" which I scanned, OCRed and cleaned up. I augmented that with data from workshop manuals, but this started to illustrate the inaccuracies in the source data. To address the contradictory data I bought, I picked up a few printed Lucas manuals, but this got costly so I bought CD's containing scans of the original Lucas master service lists which I cleaned up, OCRed, cleaned and proofed then populated into my original database. This certainly filled in a lot of data holes, but it also introduced more anomalies. In fact, Lucas themselves had contradictory data from one years master list to the next. The most unreliable data is rotation direction. It appears that Lucas wasn't consistent in defining whether the direction reference was looking at the rotor from the top or the dog from the bottom. The database now contains a check box to indicate whether the direction is from seed data or confirmed from the actual distributor (Ebay is a great source for images of specific service numbers). Another problem with shop manuals is that they are inconsistent in listing data with reference to distributor or engine RPM and advance. I have seen an example, Haynes, natch, that mixes the two. A while ago I got hold of Lucas parts lists which allowed me to correlate advance curves with specific springs and cams. Therefore, knowing the curve for one service number and what parts it contained, I could surmise that another service number with the same parts must have the same curve. Service number alone does not describe the curve, just the application. Lucas used "ECM" number to describe unique curves, so using the parts lists and other data I populated more data correlating on ECM. Unfortunately, I have been unsuccessful in tracking down the master ECM data, or even what ECM stands for! So, without the true original Lucas master list of data, master ECM curves or access to original distributors to pull the data from, the list I have created is the best single source of data that is available. Certainly there are errors, but are they in the Lucas master list(s) or the OEM service manuals? There is no need for anyone to get huffy about the database. My life does not revolve around building perfect databases from 40 year old questionable data, I do it as a hobby and I do it as time permits. The database as it stands represents about 100 hours of my time and $300 of cash outlay on manuals and CD's. For this I ask no compensation or thanks. I just put it out there for people to use, free of charge because I want to contribute to the community. If someone has a problem with my work, or wants to offer corrections I welcome the input, but, as I said, I do it as a hobby and I'll get to it when I get to it. Since no one else on the planet has taken on this task, the criticism voiced here only goes to prove that no good deed goes unpunished. Don't worry, this won't stop me from pursuing this, or other ideas, or extrapolating what I have learned to benefit the community in other ways. The fact is, the Lucas Distributor Database was the basis for the work I did to develop the 123 distributor line including the 123/GB-4 for Triumph engines. You're welcome." --Marcel Chichak Edmonton Alberta Canada, eh? Peek into my world: www.starchak.ca check out www.tdcperformance.ca/ and visit my history page www.shell-4000-rally.org On Sep 24, 2007, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4a ignition advance