From Andy.dixon at comcast.net  Mon Oct  1 04:49:44 2007
From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 06:49:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Article about new oil formulations
Message-ID: <011801c80418$c7013350$6700a8c0@andy>

I need to stop looking for parts on the web, all I find are interesting
articles.
This one is about new oil formulations (to minutely reduce emissions) that
contribute to the failure of flat tappet engines.
  http://www.dctra.org/?p=79
Andy

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9:46 PM

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Oct  1 05:19:05 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 07:19:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] Article about new oil formulations
Message-ID: <c91.175789a6.343231a9@aol.com>

There are oils out there that will work fine with the flat tappet  motors.  
Of course, I am always afraid that widespread discussion of this  fact will 
cause some agency to see that they are pulled from the market if they  are found 
to be used for street use.  
Sooo. . .(it's Alvolinevy Acingray Iloay.  Entyplay of DDPZay).
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From dorpaul at negia.net  Mon Oct  1 07:44:01 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 09:44:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Just who's calling who 'DumDum'?
Message-ID: <000601c80432$2904de80$1694df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I want to put my front fenders back on.  In Roger Williams's "How to Restore a
Tr 2,3" he shows a picture on p. 85 of some goop called 'dumdum' applied
between the metal.  The restoration shop was struck dumb and seemed to say
that this was unnecessary (I Think), although they did show me some 3M
Rubber-chord-like adhesive.

Roger Williams's in this caption of this picture even says that one reason for
using it is "to increase expense".  I'll admit sometimes my English to
American translation abilities are off.
But the question remains:
'Do I need DumDum?'

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Oct  1 07:58:37 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 09:58:37 EDT
Subject: [TR] Just who's calling who 'DumDum'?
Message-ID: <cb2.1c851856.3432570d@aol.com>

I have probably close to 400k mile on my 59 TR3A which I bought in 62. It  
was the only family car for several years (with two children). It has been  
restored three time, each time stripping it to the tub (removal of all 4 wings).  
I never used dum-dum. It soundslike a good idea BUT I would not use adhesive!. 
 Dum dum is going to make installation of the chrome strips more of a  
challenge.
Mike Moore 



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From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Oct  1 11:41:20 2007
From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 17:41:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] Just who's calling who 'DumDum'?
Message-ID: <100120071741.25583.47013140000369B9000063EF22070229330B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net>

As a former Brit (since nationalized) I can say that DumDum is a rubber compound (from a tube or a tub).  I have 2 restored TR3s and didn't use it (or anything like it).

Andrew

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Paul Dorsey" <dorpaul at negia.net> 

> I want to put my front fenders back on. In Roger Williams's "How to Restore a 
> Tr 2,3" he shows a picture on p. 85 of some goop called 'dumdum' applied 
> between the metal. The restoration shop was struck dumb and seemed to say 
> that this was unnecessary (I Think), although they did show me some 3M 
> Rubber-chord-like adhesive. 
> 
> Roger Williams's in this caption of this picture even says that one reason for 
> using it is "to increase expense". I'll admit sometimes my English to 
> American translation abilities are off. 
> But the question remains: 
> 'Do I need DumDum?' 
> 
> Thanks, 
> Paul Dorsey 
> 60 TR3 
> _______________________________________________ 
> auprichard at comcast.net 
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org 
> 
> Triumphs mailing list 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon Oct  1 12:13:54 2007
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 14:13:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Just who's calling who 'DumDum'?
References: <100120071741.25583.47013140000369B9000063EF22070229330B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0a6101c80456$d7ec3820$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Hello all,
I used a 3M product called 3M Strip Caulk Prod #08578. It comes in 1 foot 
lengths and is about 1/8"-1/4" thick. When I removed my fenders the metal 
between the outer and inner fenders was badly corroded and rusted. I applied 
this material on both edges between the inner and outer fender to prevent 
water getting between them and doing the same thing. This material is 
designed for this and is relatively inexpensive. Especially compared to the 
alternative. It is not difficult to work with and does come off if it spread 
out from between the fenders. IMHO I believe it to be very helpful.
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Mon Oct  1 12:18:02 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 11:18:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Just who's calling who 'DumDum'?
In-Reply-To: <cb2.1c851856.3432570d@aol.com>
References: <cb2.1c851856.3432570d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B7140F13CD3B4910BDB0ACC88E2527B9@GeoPC>

Indeedy.  If there is no goo there it's pretty easy to loosen a wing and 
pull the fender beading out (for a respray or to replace the stone guards 
for example).

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MMoore8425 at aol.com>
To: <dorpaul at negia.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Just who's calling who 'DumDum'?


>It soundslike a good idea BUT I would not use adhesive!.
> Dum dum is going to make installation of the chrome strips more of a
> challenge. 

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Mon Oct  1 14:16:54 2007
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 16:16:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF steering couplings - failure warning
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20158.1191085613.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.20158.1191085613.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <FE1AB6E9-A72F-4B43-B0F5-0E33EEC90EE9@comcast.net>

I fitted rubber steering couplings a few weeks ago to my 1963 TR4. I  
just received a call from Dave at The Roadster Factory warning that  
the couplings are flawed, and may fail.

They were supplied from the UK, where the alert about the failures  
originates. This may not be limited to only TRF couplings, as I  
recall the TRF salesman telling me when I ordered them that the 'Big  
Three' all get them from the same source.

They are currently out of stock, are not expected for 2 to 3 weeks,  
and Dave asked that the car not be driven until the couplings are  
replaced.

I just wanted to pass this on in case anyone on this list has  
recently fitted new couplings, and haven't yet been reached by TRF  
(or other supplier).

Its perfect driving weather here in the NE just now...ah well, better  
safe than sorry.

Maybe time to get an early start on my winter 'to do' list

Brian

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Oct  1 16:31:58 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 22:31:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] Exhaust Pipe Color
Message-ID: <100120072231.28636.4701755E000ADC7300006FDC22155934149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Another dummy question:  What color looking into the exhaust pipe is appropriate?  ...I had thought tan.  Black means too rich, right?
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 16:51:50 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 15:51:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Exhaust Pipe Color
In-Reply-To: <100120072231.28636.4701755E000ADC7300006FDC22155934149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <100120072231.28636.4701755E000ADC7300006FDC22155934149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001b01c8047d$a7681b20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Another dummy question:  What color looking into the exhaust 
> pipe is appropriate?  ...I had thought tan.  Black means too 
> rich, right?

That used to be true, but I don't believe it is any more.  Now I believe the
black only tells you it was too rich at some point (like you didn't push the
choke in quickly enough last year); without saying anything about whether it
is too rich now.

The difference is the lead no longer in the fuel; lead oxide is very white
(which is why it used to be used in paint).

Randall

From steven at newellboys.com  Mon Oct  1 17:25:19 2007
From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell)
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 16:25:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr4 generator redux
In-Reply-To: <200709301925.09201.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200709301925.09201.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <470181DF.6090207@newellboys.com>

Bob Labuz wrote:

>The top is an original AMCO I got on EBAY. NOS and NIB. Real nice top, great fit but believe it or not the car seems louder with the top and windows up than with just the tonneau.
>
I believe that. Every fall or bad spell of weather when I have a reason 
to put the top up, I'm alarmed at how loud the car is. What is that 
sound? Is the engine on it's last leg? Then the rain stops, or I find my 
warmest coat and a good hat, and I take the top off again -- and the car 
sounds just perfect.

Steven Newell
Littleton, CO USA
'62 TR4 x 2

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Oct  1 18:51:37 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 20:51:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Engine Mounts
Message-ID: <000301c8048e$65176bc0$210110ac@bobspc>

The August 2007 issue of The Vintage Triumph shows the re-building of a TR4
race car dubbed the Flying Brick. In the article, he makes reference to
"heavy-duty engine mounts sourced in England". If I'm looking at the right
thing, these mounts look like 3 skinny rubber donuts stacked on each other.
Is anybody familiar with these mounts and who sells them?

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


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Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM

From Andy.dixon at comcast.net  Tue Oct  2 04:54:52 2007
From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 06:54:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A caliper shims
Message-ID: <014a01c804e2$a9476e90$6700a8c0@andy>

Does anyone have any caliper shims lying about that they would like to sell?

Alternately, has anyone found anything that will work as a substitute? They
are mentioned in the shop manual but dont show up in the parts manual or
any of the big threes catalogues.

Andy


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.36/1041 - Release Date: 10/1/2007
10:20 AM

From emanteno at comcast.net  Tue Oct  2 05:48:14 2007
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 11:48:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Engine Mounts
Message-ID: <100220071148.15700.47022FFE0007D91700003D542200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> 

> The August 2007 issue of The Vintage Triumph shows the re-building of a TR4 
> race car dubbed the Flying Brick. In the article, he makes reference to 
> "heavy-duty engine mounts sourced in England". If I'm looking at the right 
> thing, these mounts look like 3 skinny rubber donuts stacked on each other. 
> Is anybody familiar with these mounts and who sells them? 

The round heavy duty mounts are sold by Cambridge Motorsports in England, and they are substantially bigger and stronger than any tractor engine mount that you have ever seen. Overkill for the street, required for racing.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
63 TR4 VSCDA Group 2 #58 (for sale, complete with Cambridge engine mounts)
Highland Park, IL

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue Oct  2 06:47:55 2007
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 08:47:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page
Message-ID: <47023dfb.12a.1a70.21554@cogeco.ca>

> Did you replace the thermostat.  I've had thermostats not work after an
> overheating episode.
>

I haven't yet, it's at least open as I feel heat in the heater core fairly quickly, however I'll replace it this winter
on spec.

From triosan at gmail.com  Tue Oct  2 09:07:23 2007
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 08:07:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Engine Mounts
In-Reply-To: <100220071148.15700.47022FFE0007D91700003D542200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <100220071148.15700.47022FFE0007D91700003D542200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0710020807q70cf31afw45c0f914b9ffe920@mail.gmail.com>

How are those mounts used/mounted?  Do they have an application with the 6s?

On 10/2/07, emanteno at comcast.net <emanteno at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
>
> > The August 2007 issue of The Vintage Triumph shows the re-building of a
> TR4
> > race car dubbed the Flying Brick. In the article, he makes reference to
> > "heavy-duty engine mounts sourced in England". If I'm looking at the
> right
> > thing, these mounts look like 3 skinny rubber donuts stacked on each
> other.
> > Is anybody familiar with these mounts and who sells them?
>
> The round heavy duty mounts are sold by Cambridge Motorsports in England,
> and they are substantially bigger and stronger than any tractor engine mount
> that you have ever seen. Overkill for the street, required for racing.
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> 63 TR4 VSCDA Group 2 #58 (for sale, complete with Cambridge engine mounts)
> Highland Park, IL
>
> Your messages not reaching the list?
> Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html
>
> ===  Help keep Team.Net on the air
> ===     http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> ===  unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net  or
> try
> ===  http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
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> ===  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
> ===  http://www.team.net/the-local
> ===  Edit your replies!
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From emanteno at comcast.net  Tue Oct  2 09:25:21 2007
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 15:25:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Engine Mounts
Message-ID: <100220071525.8169.470262E10001E74B00001FE92200735446970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com> 
How are those mounts used/mounted?  Do they have an application with the 6s?

Perhaps they can be adapted with some kind of self fabricated mount. Otherwise, I don't see how these could be used on a TR6.
Irv Korey

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct  2 09:28:18 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 08:28:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A caliper shims
In-Reply-To: <014a01c804e2$a9476e90$6700a8c0@andy>
Message-ID: <20071002152818.NZGA14677.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> Alternately, has anyone found anything that will work as a 
> substitute?

Haven't done it myself, but it should be easy enough to fabricate them from
shim stock (available from any industrial or machine supply place, like
McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/ or Enco
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=685&PMCTLG=00

Or, MMC will sell you pre-made shim washers (which would be more trouble to
install but save having to cut them out).

Randall

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Tue Oct  2 09:50:24 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 10:50:24 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Article about new oil formulations
Message-ID: <7805197.1191340224582.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Andy and list,

I called the Castrol tech line and inquired about having a flat tappet cam and what oil would they recommend.  The answer was to use Syntec 20W-50 only due to the zinc content of 1200 ppm (0.12%).  I asked about the Castrol GTX 20W-50 that I have used for years.  The reply was that the new API spects have significantly reduced zinc content and that the GTX was not recommended for flat tappet engines.  I believe that the Syntec 20W-50 is a full synthetic oil.  Leading to the question of switching to full synthetic oil in the following e-mail.

Greg Perry

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Tue Oct  2 10:16:42 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 11:16:42 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Changing oil to full synthetic
Message-ID: <33271695.1191341802301.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hello List,

What has been the experience if any with changing from mineral based oils (Castrol GTX 20-w50)to full synthetic based oils Castrol Syntec 20W-50)on a flat tappet 200,000 mile leaky Triumph motor?  The question comes about because of the recommendation from Castrol oil Company of only using Syntec 20W-50 only in flat tappet camshaft engines.

I would suspect that the synthetic oil would leak more vigorously than mineral oil.  I'm hesitant to change to full synthetic oil.  I tried Mobile 1 when it first came out.  It was too thin, valve train clattered loudly until oil got there and leaked out of the ford 460 at the time.

Regards,
Greg Perry  

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue Oct  2 10:36:22 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 12:36:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] Changing oil to full synthetic
Message-ID: <c89.159681a5.3433cd86@aol.com>

I have not put it in my car. However, my Benz E320 requires Mobil One to  
maintain the warranty. I was at a gear failure analysis class several years ago  
with some lube  engineers from Texaco. I was told that the big feature of  the 
synthetics is that the engine will come up to pressure so much faster, and  
that bearing wear occurs mostly during startup. The ability to come up to  
pressure faster is supposed to extend the bearing life. 
 
Mike Moore 



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From spamiam at comcast.net  Tue Oct  2 10:41:48 2007
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 16:41:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] Exhaust Pipe Color
Message-ID: <100220071641.25630.470274CC000911E10000641E2205884484030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net>

>Another dummy question:  What color looking into the exhaust >pipe is 
>appropriate?  ...I had thought tan.  Black means too rich, right?

No, I think it is always black these days with unleaded fuel.  THe tan color came from the lead deposits.

You can not tell what is happening much by the exhaust pipe.

On the plugs, the insulators should be pretty clean looking.  Maybe a hint of reddish/orange but essentially clean.  The electrodes should not have much rounding-off of the square edges.

-Tony

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct  2 10:46:01 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 09:46:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Changing oil to full synthetic
In-Reply-To: <33271695.1191341802301.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20071002164611.THYA6229.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>

> I would suspect that the synthetic oil would leak more 
> vigorously than mineral oil.

I run Valvoline full synthetic in all my cars; and I've never noticed any
increase in leakage.  On one non-LBC, it actually reduced oil consumption
dramatically.

BTW, Castrol was sued a few years back because their "synthetic" was not
what the other makers consider "synthetic".  Castrol argued (and won in
court) that basically anything that had been through a modern refinery
counted as "synthetic".

After several bad experiences, I refuse to put Castrol in anything.

Randall

From jmcoh at comcast.net  Tue Oct  2 11:17:06 2007
From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 13:17:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Article about new oil formulations
In-Reply-To: <7805197.1191340224582.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <7805197.1191340224582.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <007f01c80518$0fce6e40$2f6b4ac0$@net>

How about a partial synthetic like Brad Penn Grade 1 20w-50.  It has high
zinc content, and it supposedly provides outstanding protection for flat
tappet cams.  It is the same refinery as the old Kendall GTX green oil.  At
about $4.50 per quart it is about the same price as most full synthetics.  I
have used it now for about 6 months with no increased leakage. 

 

www.bradpennracing.com

 

John Cohen

76 TR6

http://www.triumphowners.com/701

 

 

 

I called the Castrol tech line and inquired about having a flat tappet cam
and what oil would they recommend.  The answer was to use Syntec 20W-50 only
due to the zinc content of 1200 ppm (0.12%).  I asked about the Castrol GTX
20W-50 that I have used for years.  The reply was that the new API spects
have significantly reduced zinc content and that the GTX was not recommended
for flat tappet engines.  I believe that the Syntec 20W-50 is a full
synthetic oil.  Leading to the question of switching to full synthetic oil
in the following e-mail.

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Tue Oct  2 11:28:16 2007
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 18:28:16 +0100
Subject: [TR] Silicone gasket
Message-ID: <553681A7-4942-4E49-A20F-FFCDD9D2F316@tcd.ie>

Hi all,
Just filled up my yet to be started re-built motor, even the act of  
pouring oil into the engine resulted in some weeping from a few  
places around the rocker gasket, the cover was torqued down enough. I  
think I might get myself the silicone version and dispose of the  
cork. Justin are you still supplying these, or is there another  
source these days.
Regards
John
One TR2 ready to go!!!!!

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Tue Oct  2 11:47:31 2007
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 13:47:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Changing oil to full synthetic
References: <33271695.1191341802301.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <001401c8051c$504a7820$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us>

Well, it's almost always been my experiences with synthetics that they leak 
more.  A damp spot becomes wet, and a slow drip becomes an active leak. 
Others insist that isn't true, but it's certainly what I've observed with 
synthetics.

The concern over flat lifters vs roller lifters was originally a break in 
issue.  It has since morphed to a hysteria that all flat tappets will 
promptly self destruct with new oil.  As that hasn't happened, and many new 
engines are still flat tappet design, I rather suspect the story has become 
quite overblown.




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Perry" <rgperry at earthlink.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:16 PM
Subject: [TR] Changing oil to full synthetic


> Hello List,
>
> What has been the experience if any with changing from mineral based oils 
> (Castrol GTX 20-w50)to full synthetic based oils Castrol Syntec 20W-50)on 
> a flat tappet 200,000 mile leaky Triumph motor?  The question comes about 
> because of the recommendation from Castrol oil Company of only using 
> Syntec 20W-50 only in flat tappet camshaft engines.
>
> I would suspect that the synthetic oil would leak more vigorously than 
> mineral oil.  I'm hesitant to change to full synthetic oil.  I tried 
> Mobile 1 when it first came out.  It was too thin, valve train clattered 
> loudly until oil got there and leaked out of the ford 460 at the time.

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Tue Oct  2 11:32:22 2007
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 12:32:22 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Silicone gasket
Message-ID: <30756003.5630031191346342964.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>

John,

He is still supplying and I installed one of these on my 72 Triumph TR6.  It is a great product, easy installation, and it stopped my small oil leak from my valve cover.

I would highly recommend it.

Craig Nicholls
72 Triumph TR6



>From: John Gillis <jgillis at tcd.ie>
>Date: 2007/10/02 Tue PM 12:28:16 CDT
>To: Triumph List <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>
>Subject: [TR] Silicone gasket

>Hi all,
>Just filled up my yet to be started re-built motor, even the act of  
>pouring oil into the engine resulted in some weeping from a few  
>places around the rocker gasket, the cover was torqued down enough. I  
>think I might get myself the silicone version and dispose of the  
>cork. Justin are you still supplying these, or is there another  
>source these days.
>Regards
>John
>One TR2 ready to go!!!!!
>_______________________________________________
>thenicholls at verizon.net
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>Triumphs mailing list
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct  2 12:17:00 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 11:17:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page
In-Reply-To: <47023dfb.12a.1a70.21554@cogeco.ca>
References: <47023dfb.12a.1a70.21554@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <00ac01c80520$6cf29a30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I haven't yet, it's at least open as I feel heat in the 
> heater core fairly quickly, 

That's kind of a non sequitur ... rapid heat means the thermostat is closed,
not open.

And doesn't really tell you anything about whether it opens when it should,
or if it opens all the way.

Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Oct  2 12:48:10 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 14:48:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR] Silicone gasket
Message-ID: <000601c80524$c950b3d0$210110ac@bobspc>

John,
I've had Justin's gasket on my TR6 for about 6 or 7 years now and it's never
leaked so much as a drop of oil. I've also had the valve cover off the car
about 3 or 4 times since getting the gasket, so it really is reusable.

There's a link to Justin's site on my web site. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Gillis
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 1:28 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Silicone gasket

Hi all,
Just filled up my yet to be started re-built motor, even the act of pouring
oil into the engine resulted in some weeping from a few places around the
rocker gasket, the cover was torqued down enough. I think I might get myself
the silicone version and dispose of the cork. Justin are you still supplying
these, or is there another source these days.
Regards
John
One TR2 ready to go!!!!!
_______________________________________________
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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From mgodley at tiac.net  Tue Oct  2 13:28:22 2007
From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 15:28:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Changing oil to full synthetic
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1191348001.7802.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1191348001.7802.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <122D2275FB474F26B8ABC8F8A8697508@MichaelPC>

Well there's always the "snake oil option"...... meaning an additive with
zinc.  See below.     On a more serious note, if a product like STP with
XEP2 adds zinc why not?.....its cheap and we don't have to worry about
catalytic converters.  While I'm at it I should probably add some Marvel
Mystery Oil to the gas....my factory workshop manual recommends a top end
lubricant, but I have never used one...finally where's the Re-lead....I have
a "leaded gas head" and 25 years of using unleaded fuel is probably taking
its toll!  

Cheers

Mike Godley
Additive Free - 65 TR4A -


>From epinions...and I recall several past threads with similar sentiment

http://www.epinions.com/content_2969477252 

"The next oil additive category is Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, we'll just
call it zinc. Zinc is contained as part of the standard additive package in
virtually every major brand of engine oil sold today. Organic zinc compounds
are used as extreme pressure, anti-wear additives, and are therefore found
in larger amounts in oils specifically blended for high-revving,
turbocharged or racing applications. The zinc in your oil comes into play
only when there is actual metal-to-metal contact within your engine, which
should never occur under normal operating conditions. However, if you race,
or occasionally play tag with the redline on the tach, the zinc is your last
line of defense. Under extreme conditions, the zinc compounds react with the
metal to prevent scuffing, particularly between cylinder bores and piston
rings. Adding extra zinc via oil additives is not only unnecessary, it is
harmful to the catalytic converter. The following are SOME (not all) of the
zinc dialkyldithiophosphate containing products currently on the market:
Mechanics Brand Engine Tune Up, K Mart Super Oil Treatment, and STP Engine
Treatment With XEP2." 

**********
"{"What has been the experience if any with changing from mineral based oils
(Castrol GTX 20-w50)to full synthetic based oils Castrol Syntec 20W-50)on a
flat tappet 200,000 mile leaky Triumph motor?  The question comes about
because of the recommendation from Castrol oil Company of only using Syntec
20W-50 only in flat tappet camshaft engines.

*

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue Oct  2 13:48:13 2007
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 15:48:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR] Silicone gasket
Message-ID: <cc6.1dc3d485.3433fa7d@cs.com>

Justin can answer this better, but his silicone molds reflect the 
configuration of the stock valve cover lip....and very well at that.  

I have been using Justin's Gasket for several years on both the TR4 race car 
and the my street TR3A.   I would never leave home without mine.

Now I bought an Alloy Cover for my AMBRO project and it looks like I will 
have to go back to cork, unless someone can lead me to a supplier of something 
different. 

Joe A
> All;
> 
> I see that Justin's website 
> (http://www.jmwagnersales.com/T6SiliconeGasket.htm) says his valve 
> cover gasket will only work with stock valve covers. I wonder what the 
> difference are from the aluminum, finned, aftermarket covers that keeps 
> his gasket from working with them.
> 
> Anyway, I have written to Justin asking if he also makes (or could 
> make) one for the oil pan. Anyone know of a source for a silicone 
> oilpan gasket? THERE'S a problem I'd like to solve!
> 
> Dave Friedlander
> CF25194UO
> 

   </HTML>

From darrellw at ipns.com  Tue Oct  2 14:01:31 2007
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 13:01:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR] Silicone gasket
In-Reply-To: <cc6.1dc3d485.3433fa7d@cs.com>
References: <cc6.1dc3d485.3433fa7d@cs.com>
Message-ID: <5BC607F5-D2AB-4102-8055-C78F1B610C6A@ipns.com>

On Oct 2, 2007, at 12:48 PM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

> Now I bought an Alloy Cover for my AMBRO project and it looks like  
> I will
> have to go back to cork, unless someone can lead me to a supplier  
> of something
> different.

Check out Roadster Gaskets:

http://www.roadstergaskets.com/

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Oct  2 14:06:42 2007
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 16:06:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR] Silicone gasket
Message-ID: <380-22007102220642800@M2W041.mail2web.com>

ah yes! has anyone used them in this application.  seems fair. thanks
Darrell.

joe a

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Darrell Walker darrellw at ipns.com
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 13:01:31 -0700
To: forzion at maine.rr.com, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org,
triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, N197TR4 at cs.com
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR] Silicone gasket



On Oct 2, 2007, at 12:48 PM, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

> Now I bought an Alloy Cover for my AMBRO project and it looks like
> I will
> have to go back to cork, unless someone can lead me to a supplier
> of something
> different.

Check out Roadster Gaskets:

http://www.roadstergaskets.com/

-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA




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From ray at raysmg.com  Tue Oct  2 15:09:24 2007
From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 14:09:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A caliper shims
Message-ID: <20071002140924.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.f69163b395.wbe@email.secureserver.net>

   Andy  wrote: "Does anyone have any caliper shims lying about that they
   would  like  to sell? Alternately, has anyone found anything that will
   work as a substitute?"

   I  rebuilt the front suspension on my TR3 last winter and needed shims
   on  both  calipers.  I  wound  up  at  the  local auto parts store for
   something  else  and  found  "body shims" in the "Help!" parts section
   (the  peg  board  area with all the little generic bits asked for most
   often). Each package contains several different horseshoe shaped shims
   with  a little "handle" on the curved side for gripping with a pair of
   pliers.

   Worked great.

   Ray
   Ray McCaleb
   ray at raysmg.com
   http://www.raysmg.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Oct  2 15:13:27 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 17:13:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] Interesting cooling system web page
Message-ID: <d69.1362f582.34340e77@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/2/2007 7:47:59 AM Central Daylight Time, 
amcewen2 at cogeco.ca writes: 
> I haven't yet, it's at least open as I feel heat in the heater core fairly 
> quickly, however I'll replace it this winter
> on spec.

It may be opening but not fully opening.  I recommend not waiting.  They're 
cheap and easy to replace.

Dave   

From tr6nut at verizon.net  Tue Oct  2 15:31:16 2007
From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 17:31:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Engine Mounts
In-Reply-To: <100220071525.8169.470262E10001E74B00001FE92200735446970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <100220071525.8169.470262E10001E74B00001FE92200735446970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4702B8A4.5050603@verizon.net>

You can use TR8 engine mounts on a TR6 - they are quite a bit heavier 
duty than the stock "6" parts.

Hugh Barber
Stafford, VA
'73 TR6
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com> 
> How are those mounts used/mounted?  Do they have an application with the 6s?

From jimbpps at cox.net  Tue Oct  2 16:41:06 2007
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 15:41:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW: Best Book for TR Restorers?
In-Reply-To: <cdd.1dce1709.34302d0c@aol.com>
References: <cdd.1dce1709.34302d0c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9857A577897542B6B5A9FB82AE65E96D@JimofficePC>

The book that I used almost exclusively for my TR3 restoration almost 10 years
ago was the 'TRA Judging Standard and Restoration Guide'. Of course I was going
for maximum originality! This book is available on line now I believe from TRA.
It certainly is well worth having if you care at all about originality. 

Regards,

Jim
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
DLylis at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 3:35 PM
To: mlang99 at comcast.net; auprichard at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] FW: Best Book for TR Restorers?

I have "rounded the bend", so to speak with my 3A resto and I recommend using
the "how to restor" for detail in what to look for, etc. but use the Bentley for
the details.  I don't know that you can adequately cover  this project in 192
pages even though it is "now in colour". 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
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Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Tue Oct  2 16:49:20 2007
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 15:49:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 shackle length
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0710021549200.26317@hymn34.u.washington.edu>

Hello Listers
   Can anyone tell me the correct length (pin-to-pin) of a TR2-TR4 shackle?  I have a late TR4 with the deep-dish spring and big spacer under the axle, but the shackle is supposed to be the same part from TR2 through TR4 (but not TR4A).
   Here is the back-story: The car sits about 2" lower in the rear than it should, compared to other people's cars described in the Archives, and it bottoms out occasionally.  The rear frame under the rear axle is about 5.5" from the ground.  I have tall tires (Cooper Sportmaster 165/15), so I know that's not the problem.
   I suspect I have saggy springs.  But there is also a possibility that the spring shackles are longer than normal... One of the previous owners told me the car had been lowered that way long ago, though he thought he had changed it back.
   Anyway, my shackles measure right around 3", and I was just wondering if this is correct.
   Thanks!
-Nick Wolf
64-ish TR4
Vancouver, BC

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Oct  2 17:06:49 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 19:06:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 shackle length
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0710021549200.26317@hymn34.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <003401c80548$ea109a80$5918e247@DCS78M81>

I just replaced mine and the car's not handy to measure but I think 3" is 
about right.
Certainly no longer.
I had the same bottoming problem with 185X15 on panasports. I replaced the 
rear springs and now no problem with rubbing and she handles a lot better, 
too.
Getting the bolts out of the silent blocks was a LONG process using heat and 
PB Blaster, but eventually they came - does 5 weeks sound like a long time? 
If you have any problems getting them out let me know. First hint, use a 
fine threaded stud in the bolt through the frame - that way you're putting 
pressure on the stud not the bolt you're trying to remove, and use grade 
eight washers for the leverage on a socket over the bolt. I went through 
about 6 or so studs during the process, but the threads in the bolt were 
still good.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nwolf at u.washington.edu>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 6:49 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 shackle length


> Hello Listers
>   Can anyone tell me the correct length (pin-to-pin) of a TR2-TR4 shackle? 
> I have a late TR4 with the deep-dish spring and big spacer under the axle, 
> but the shackle is supposed to be the same part from TR2 through TR4 (but 
> not TR4A).
>   Here is the back-story: The car sits about 2" lower in the rear than it 
> should, compared to other people's cars described in the Archives, and it 
> bottoms out occasionally.  The rear frame under the rear axle is about 
> 5.5" from the ground.  I have tall tires (Cooper Sportmaster 165/15), so I 
> know that's not the problem.
>   I suspect I have saggy springs.  But there is also a possibility that 
> the spring shackles are longer than normal... One of the previous owners 
> told me the car had been lowered that way long ago, though he thought he 
> had changed it back.
>   Anyway, my shackles measure right around 3", and I was just wondering if 
> this is correct.
>   Thanks!
> -Nick Wolf
> 64-ish TR4
> Vancouver, BC
> _______________________________________________
> tfansher at comcast.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From robertgknapp at yahoo.ca  Tue Oct  2 17:11:46 2007
From: robertgknapp at yahoo.ca (Robert Knapp)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 19:11:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] 71 TR6 Windscreen Wipers
Message-ID: <82698.46884.qm@web50508.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I have almost completed a body off restoration of my TR6.  During a recent test drive it began to rain and I realized that the wipers were not properly cycling.  When they were shut off they were in the vertical position and if I adjust them down they will not move upward to clean the windscreen.  Is there some way to change this cycle?
  Thxs, Bob Knapp. 

       
---------------------------------
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail  

From trglory at comcast.net  Tue Oct  2 18:44:38 2007
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 20:44:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Weep for me
Message-ID: <005d01c80556$978a51d0$c69ef570$@net>

Speaking of oil leaks, my TR3 weeps around the push rod tubes. Any easy way
of fixing that or do I live with it?

 

Joe


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Oct  2 19:23:06 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 21:23:06 EDT
Subject: [TR] 71 TR6 Windscreen Wipers
Message-ID: <cc4.1d33acbe.343448fa@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/2/2007 6:12:07 PM Central Daylight Time, 
robertgknapp at yahoo.ca writes: 
> I have almost completed a body off restoration of my TR6.  During a recent 
> test drive it began to rain and I realized that the wipers were not properly 
> cycling.  When they were shut off they were in the vertical position and if I 
> adjust them down they will not move upward to clean the windscreen.  Is 
> there some way to change this cycle?
> 
Did you put the wheel boxes in upsidedown?

Dave   

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Tue Oct  2 20:16:04 2007
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 22:16:04 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 shackle length
Message-ID: <bf1.1bc66ee0.34345564@aol.com>

Nick,
TR4 CT22326L has the deep dish rear springs too - these shackles measure 2.5"
exactly. (center of bolt to center of bolt)
20 years ago I had one leaf break on driver's side - took spring to a truck
spring company. They made a new leaf for $45. I brought in both sides so they
could match curves, etc. If you think a photo of curve would help, mine are
still hanging on the wall during my resto.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

>   Anyway, my shackles measure right around 3", and I was just wondering if
> this is correct.
>   Thanks!
> -Nick Wolf
> 64-ish TR4
**************************************
 See what's new at
http://www.aol.com

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Tue Oct  2 20:35:57 2007
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 19:35:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] EDis
In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407196D7655BE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <180809.6977.qm@web51902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407196D7655BE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0710021935p2474fb3bi6649914b53769ec0@mail.gmail.com>

John's pictures are located in a folder at this link:
http://www.dctra.org/files/EDIS_Pic_Folder/

They are bigger than the first ones and alot more ot them this time.

Marty

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Tue Oct  2 20:43:48 2007
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 22:43:48 EDT
Subject: [TR] re ps;TR4 shackle length
Message-ID: <c01.1fdf6eaf.34345be4@aol.com>

Nick,
Ps; SInce my springs are off the car it's easy to measure the curve (although
these springs have years of use TR folks always thought this car had a
perfect stance). Laying a straight bar across length of spring to rest ON TOP o
f
both 'end eyes' then measuring below that bar to topside of deepest curve area,
 I
get 8 inches.
Also Factory Manual states when car is laden (150 lbs in both seats) ground
clearance should be 6 inches.
Carl
**************************************
 See what's new at
http://www.aol.com

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue Oct  2 20:44:12 2007
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 22:44:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 232
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20902.1191366431.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.20902.1191366431.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <470301FC.3030901@cogeco.ca>

Right but without flow between the water pump and the heater core the 
water in the heater core will remain at room temperature except for 
radiant heat, which would be slow.  And as it warms reasonably in time 
with my gauge moving it must be flowing and therefore the thermostat is 
at least partially open.  If it was stuck fully open it's supposed to 
block the heater hose plumbing so the heater core wouldn't be as 
effective, but a stuck open thermostat wouldn't contribute to overheating.

As I say I'll replace the thermostat anyway but I think it's likely fine.

I think it's likely the new, less efficient, grill combined with a 
fairly dense rad core (re-cored locally) and a few miss-bent fan 
blades.  That and local weather/traffic well in excess of the british 
designers original criteria ;)
>   
>> I haven't yet, it's at least open as I feel heat in the 
>> heater core fairly quickly, 
>>     
>
> That's kind of a non sequitur ... rapid heat means the thermostat is closed,
> not open.
>
> And doesn't really tell you anything about whether it opens when it should,
> or if it opens all the way.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct  2 23:50:38 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 22:50:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 232
In-Reply-To: <470301FC.3030901@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <20071003055038.ZXME660.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> Right but without flow between the water pump and the heater 
> core the water in the heater core will remain at room 
> temperature except for radiant heat, which would be slow.  
> And as it warms reasonably in time with my gauge moving it 
> must be flowing and therefore the thermostat is at least 
> partially open.

Nope.  The thermostat does not block flow through the heater core, only
through the radiator.

Randall

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Wed Oct  3 05:58:52 2007
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 07:58:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] EDis
In-Reply-To: <df0e1f1e0710021935p2474fb3bi6649914b53769ec0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241CD72029@exchange.terra-incognita.net>

That timing wheel looks like it thirsts for blood. I have sacrificed
much at the alter of Triumphs already. I'm not sure I would want to be
pushing my hands in around that sawtoothed thingy, even with the engine
off. :^)

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack at autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Marty Clark
Sent: October 2, 2007 10:36 PM
To: Foster, Stan
Cc: johnehorton at yahoo.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] EDis

John's pictures are located in a folder at this link:
http://www.dctra.org/files/EDIS_Pic_Folder/

They are bigger than the first ones and alot more ot them this time.

Marty

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Wed Oct  3 06:53:05 2007
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 08:53:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 232
Message-ID: <470390b1.2c4.667b.11392@cogeco.ca>

> Nope.  The thermostat does not block flow through the heater core, only
> through the radiator.
>
OK, I must have misread (misviewed?) the picture in the service manual.

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 07:00:41 2007
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 09:00:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A caliper shims
References: <20071002152818.NZGA14677.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <00dc01c805bd$6748c800$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>

O.K., I give up. Why bother with caliper shims?

Ed Woods

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Wed Oct  3 07:03:36 2007
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 08:03:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Weep for me
In-Reply-To: <005d01c80556$978a51d0$c69ef570$@net>
References: <005d01c80556$978a51d0$c69ef570$@net>
Message-ID: <200710031303.l93D3i9S164524@ns3.geneseo.net>

At 07:44 PM 10/2/2007, Joe Laurito wrote:
>Speaking of oil leaks, my TR3 weeps around the push rod tubes. Any easy way
>of fixing that or do I live with it?


I know of several ways. Each has variable success.

1. Use JB Weld. Put a thin fillet of it around joint under spark 
plug. Must remove paint first.

2. Do same around of top, inside valve cover. I don't like this 
because sometimes it will come loose and get into engine.

3. Use Loctite green - it is the kind that wicks into a joint. You 
must have all oil off the surfaces,, which means liberal application 
of lacquer thinner and compressed air to the joint inside the valve 
cover and under the spark plugs. Then just apply a little of this 
stuff to the joint. Works if the head is totally clean - may or may 
not work otherwise, depending on how clean you can get the joint.

4. I've had my machine shop make up a swaging tool that we use after 
any head milling. Basically it is two cones, top and bottom, pressed 
lightly by a press. Head must be off of course.


>

uncle jack 



------------------------------------------------
No Virus Found In This Message
Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 07:07:11 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 13:07:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A caliper shims
Message-ID: <100320071307.5794.470393FF000B0EF0000016A222007504389D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
> O.K., I give up. Why bother with caliper shims?

Because the caliper may not fit on the car without them.  

I have a very early TR4.  With fresh pads, the caliper will not bolt up solid to the bracket.  It needs to be shimmed to center the caliper over the disk.

I understand why you may not have experienced this.  I had a bunch of Triumph-club guys in my shop and none of them had ever seen caliper shims before.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From 6parts at charter.net  Wed Oct  3 07:14:25 2007
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 09:14:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A caliper shims
References: <20071002152818.NZGA14677.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>
	<00dc01c805bd$6748c800$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <002b01c805bf$5375ca60$8d86c518@alan>

If the caliper isn't centered on the rotor, then they are needed.  I 
recently had to order some shims from TRF because I was rebuilding the front 
suspension on a TR6 and the used caliper I got , needed to be shimmed to 
allow the new brake pads to fit over the rotor.
I never had to do it before;  but this was a wreck and I was piecing 
together parts from different cars.

Al Salvatore
www.triumphowners.com/624

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] 59 TR3A caliper shims


> O.K., I give up. Why bother with caliper shims?
>
> Ed Woods
> _______________________________________________

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Oct  3 07:22:28 2007
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 09:22:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] Joe's Weeping Pushrod Tubes
Message-ID: <c1d.230ff9f9.3434f194@cs.com>

Joe Laurito,

There is one short Craftsmen socket in my set that has a nice stepdown radius 
that just fits the push rod tube. You likely have something like this, too.

I put that in place and tap several times until I feel that I have swaged the 
material.

There are two materials, aluminum and steel, that were used for pushrod tubes 
and I think the alloy is the bigger offender.

As Uncle Jack says, there is also JB Weld and Loctite Green....perhaps this 
can be done in combination with the Craftsmen socket.

See you at the Glen in 2008.

Joe A

   </HTML>

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Oct  3 07:37:52 2007
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 09:37:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] SHIMS for Triumph Brake Calipers
Message-ID: <bd9.1d049c62.3434f530@cs.com>

List,

I am not saying it is right, but I quit using caliper shims a long time ago, 
both in race and street applications.

Paul makes a point about early calipers not fitting with new pads. I will 
make note of that.

I have not experienced that, however both my TR3A and early TR4 have the 
later calipers, including a set of TR6s on the TR3A.

Joe A

   </HTML>

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Wed Oct  3 09:19:27 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 08:19:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] SHIMS for Triumph Brake Calipers
In-Reply-To: <bd9.1d049c62.3434f530@cs.com>
References: <bd9.1d049c62.3434f530@cs.com>
Message-ID: <7F3B7AC1F7994E93A5709AEB27BE6ED5@GeoPC>

Me to.  That's why I happily put the half dozen I had on my parts shelf in 
this morning's mail to Andy.

If he decides not to use them then they can sit on HIS parts shelf for the 
NEXT 20 years.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:37 AM
Subject: [TR] SHIMS for Triumph Brake Calipers


> I am not saying it is right, but I quit using caliper shims a long time 
> ago,
> both in race and street applications. 

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Oct  3 10:33:52 2007
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 18:33:52 +0200
Subject: [TR] Test, please delete
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAGbrP+lcMsRChMJRBBlXiAgBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Test

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct  3 10:41:59 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 09:41:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] 71 TR6 Windscreen Wipers
In-Reply-To: <82698.46884.qm@web50508.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20071003164159.MUOT660.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> I have almost completed a body off restoration of my TR6.  
> During a recent test drive it began to rain and I realized 
> that the wipers were not properly cycling.  When they were 
> shut off they were in the vertical position and if I adjust 
> them down they will not move upward to clean the windscreen.  
> Is there some way to change this cycle?

Bob, do they stop in the same position every time ?  Or just at random,
right after you turn the switch off ?

The second case means your park switch is not working, which may be a
problem with the switch itself (inside the wiper motor) or the wiring to it.
According to Dan Master's TR6 schematic, there is a separate green wire to
the motor that is used only for the park function, so if it's disconnected,
the wipers won't park.

Randall

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  3 10:56:37 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 11:56:37 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Update 1 Changing oil to full synthetic
Message-ID: <15440547.1191430597423.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hello List,

Disclaimer:  I do not have any connections or inside information about motor
oils or any additives.  Please take the information in this e-mail and links
for what it is worth.  I am only stating my thoughts and opinion about the
subject.  Sometimes peoplebs opinions contradict one another.  I received a
written response from Castrol concerning flat tappet camshafts and oil
recommendations.

The question posed to Castrol;

I have a british engine that has a flat tappet camshaft.  Which Castrol motor
oils are recommended for a flat tappet camshaft engine?  I understand that the
zinc and molybdenum disulfide percentage was decreased or eliminated in the
new API service ratings.
Thank You

The response from Castrol;

Thank you for contacting Castrol,

Castrol is aware of articles in enthusiast magazines and web-sites, as well as
after-market parts manufacturer discussions concerning GF-4 engine oils and
cam-shaft durability issues in older performance vehicles. Some consumers
suspect the lower level of ZDDP in GF-4 oils may be causing these failures.
Castrol is currently investigating this issue.

For those consumers that wish not to use a GF-4 oil in these vehicles,
Castrol does offer the following products that contain Zinc at a level that is
typical of the Zinc level found in oils (API SG) marketed during the "muscle
car" era of time:

The following Castrol products have Zinc levels that are typical of API SG
oil:

1.  Castrol Syntec 20W-50 (*NEWLY FORMULATED classic oil formula - see link to
website below for information on our new 20W-50 product)
2. Castrol SYNTEC 5W-40
3.  Castrol Grand Prix 4T 10W-40 (product has been replaced by Castrol
Motorcycle 4T 10W-40)
4.  Castrol Grand Prix 4T 20W-50 (product has been replaced by Castrol
Motorcycle 4T 20W-50)
5.  Castrol GO! ATV 10W-40
6.  Castrol GO! ATV 20W-50
7.  Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W-60 (full synthetic, available @ BMW
dealerships)
8.  BMW Long Life 5W-30 (full synthetic, available @ BMW dealerships)
9.  Castrol GO! 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil
10. Castrol GO! 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil

If installing a new performance cam in an older performance vehicle, it is
important to:
    * follow the installation recommendations provided by the cam
manufacturer
    * use the recommended cam break-in lube
    * prime the engine oil circuits
    * use the recommended engine oil.
    * confirm valvetrain geometries prior to starting the engine with the new
cam

*
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentI
d=7032644

Castrol Consumer Relations

My opinion is stated in the next e-mail Update 2
Regards, Greg Perry

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  3 11:19:28 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 12:19:28 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] test please delete
Message-ID: <5604229.1191431968324.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

test please delete

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  3 11:49:46 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 12:49:46 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] test 2 please delete
Message-ID: <12622909.1191433786674.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

test 2 please delete

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  3 12:04:30 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 13:04:30 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Update 2 Changing oil to full synthetic
Message-ID: <2105745.1191434670181.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hello list,  Continuation from Update 1 Changing oil to full synthetic

Disclaimer:  I do not have any connections or inside information about motor
oils or any additives.  Please take the information in this e-mail and links
for what it is worth.  I am only stating my thoughts and opinion about the
subject.  Sometimes peoplebs opinions contradict one another.

I know that my triumph has used oils with API service ratings of SC, SD, SE,
SF, SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM, CC, CD, CE, CF, CF-4, CG-4 and CH-4 in the engine.
The engine still has good compression, leaks oil, valve guides worn, runs rich
and has over 200,000 miles on it.  The engine does not seem to have any ill
effects from all of the API service specifications over the 26 years of my
ownership.  I drive the car daily and change the oil routinely at 3,000 to
5,000 miles.  Have a look at the Castrol GTX 20W-50 cardboard case box for the
advertisement b
For Extra Protection, Try Castrol SYNTEC or Castrol GTX High
Mileage, SAVE on your next purchase via mail-in offer.  See bottom of case for
details.b
  Ibll bet that Castrol SYNTEC and GTX High Mileage oil price is
higher price than Castrol GTX.  The written Castrol response states:

1. b
Some consumers suspect the lower level of ZDDP in GF-4 oils may be
causing these failures.b

2. b
Castrol Syntec 20W-50 (*NEWLY FORMULATED classic oil formula - see link
to website below for information on our new 20W-50 product)b
.
3.  b
If installing a new performance cam in an older performance vehicle, it
is important to:
    * follow the installation recommendations provided by the cam
manufacturer
    * use the recommended cam break-in lube
    * prime the engine oil circuits
    * use the recommended engine oil
    * confirm valvetrain geometries prior to starting the engine with the new
cam

There seems to be a lot of direct market advertising by Castrol in the
response and on the case box of Castrol GTX.  The kicker in my opinion is that
both the Castrol response and the article by Keith Ansell of Foreign Parts
Positively, Inc titled b
Oil is Killing Our Cars!b
 both include comments
about newly installed camshafts.  There is probably a problem with the new oil
formulations being used to break-in a new flat tappet camshaft.   Regards,
Greg Perry Part 3 forthcoming

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  3 12:38:16 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 13:38:16 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Update 3 Changing oil to full synthetic
Message-ID: <28676788.1191436696740.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Continued from Update 2 Changing oil to full synthetic;

Disclaimer:  I do not have any connections or inside information about motor
oils or any additives.  Please take the information in this e-mail and links
for what it is worth.  I am only stating my thoughts and opinion about the
subject.  Sometimes peoplebs opinions contradict one another.

The API service rating SG is for 1993 and older engines.  This infers that
motor oils produced after 1993 probably have different additives and less ZDDP
than previously produced motor oils.  Thatbs 14 years of possibly reduced
ZDDP!  How many original flat tappet camshafts have failed due to decreased
ZDDP during the last 14 years?  Ibm not talking about newly installed
aftermarket camshafts (to many variables that initially caused the concern
over decreased ZDDP in new oils).  I remember the unleaded gasoline scare
tactics of the 70bs.  Did the leaded engines fail from burning unleaded
fuel?  Did the lead gasoline additives produce income for their manufactures?
If you owned a Ford model A, what oil would you choose today?  According to
API the oil specification is obsolete.    Ibm going to continue using
Castrol GTX 20W-50 in my Triumph.  If and when I install a new flat tappet
camshaft, I will follow the cam manufactures instructions; use a good quality
30wt oil with plenty of ZDDP.  The links below may be of interest:

API  engine oil guide

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/EngineOilGuide2
006.pdf

Morgan Owners Group January 2007 tech article b
Oil is Killing Our Cars!b

States b
Latest report #1 Castrol GTX 20W-50 is still good for our cars after
break-in!b


http://www.mognw.com/mogazine/Tech_Articles/Oil_Motor.pdf

Update 4 forthcoming,  Regards,  Greg Perry

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  3 12:42:51 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 13:42:51 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Update 4 Changing oil to full synthetic
Message-ID: <30883166.1191436972082.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Continued from Update 3 Changing oil to full synthetic;

disclaimer: I do not have any connections or inside information about motor
oils or any additives.  Please take the information in this e-mail and links
for what it is worth.  I am only stating my thoughts and opinion about the
subject.  Sometimes peoplebs opinions contradict one another.

Links continued;
Research Paper on b
Interpretation of experiments on ZDDP anti-wear films
through pressure-induced cross-linkingb
   (ZDDP bonds better to iron metals
than aluminum metals; current engines have more aluminum)

http://www.apmaths.uwo.ca/~mmuser/Papers/TL05.pdf

Article  b
Motor oil: it's all too easy to use the wrong oneb
 by Jacques
Gordon applies to the latest engines not older engines includes an explanation
of ILSAC.  Basically changing the oil every 3,000 miles any oil will do for
older engines.

http://www.motoroilworld.com/choosing_an_oil.html

Foreign Parts Positively, Inc. website:
Keith Ansell is the author of the articles that have been quoted or linked to
in discussions about DZZP and flat tappet cam failure in British car club news
letters.  There may be others.   The tech article section is under
construction.

http://www.foreignpartspositively.com/

I tried to find the article mention below by Gil Wistrup at the Jaguar
Association of Central New York website without success.  The link is for
Jaguar Cubs of North America;

Castrol GTX 20W50 is widely recommended. An article in the March 2002 British
Marque written by Gil Wistrup of the Jaguar Association of Central New York
strongly advises the use of CG-4 (compression ignition) diesel rated engine
oils which contain a significant amount of ZDDP antioxidation additive.  CG-4
engine oils contain about 80% more ZDDP & about 50% more detergent than SJ
(spark ignition) rated oils.  Itbs supposed to be excellent for cars that
sit idle a good part of their life.

Regards, Greg Perry

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Oct  3 13:21:07 2007
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 14:21:07 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Update 3 Changing oil to full synthetic
Message-ID: <16588439.20471331191439268042.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>

Greg and list,

Thanks for all that discussion.  I am also a Castrol GTX 20W50 user and always
have been.  I would like to switch to a conventional 20W50 oil with the
highest zinc content that I can buy in an Advanced Auto parts store.  Can't
seem to get an answer on what oil that is?

Castol answered my question like they did for you, "use Castrol Syntec Classic
20W50".  However, I am not wanting to switch to a synthetic oil for some of
the issues while this discussion has been going on.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a non-synthetic, non-blend conventional
oil that is 20W50 that you can buy locally?

My local British car shop (and they don't change their opinion much) is still
recommending Castrol GTX 20W50 like Greg ended up deciding.

Thanks in advance,

Craig H. Nicholls
1972 Triumph TR6

>From: Greg Perry <rgperry at earthlink.net>
>Date: 2007/10/03 Wed PM 01:38:16 CDT
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: [TR] Update 3 Changing oil to full synthetic

>Continued from Update 2 Changing oil to full synthetic;
>
>Disclaimer:  I do not have any connections or inside information about motor
>oils or any additives.  Please take the information in this e-mail and links
>for what it is worth.  I am only stating my thoughts and opinion about the
>subject.  Sometimes peoplebs opinions contradict one another.
>
>The API service rating SG is for 1993 and older engines.  This infers that
>motor oils produced after 1993 probably have different additives and less
ZDDP
>than previously produced motor oils.  Thatbs 14 years of possibly reduced
>ZDDP!  How many original flat tappet camshafts have failed due to decreased
>ZDDP during the last 14 years?  Ibm not talking about newly installed
>aftermarket camshafts (to many variables that initially caused the concern
>over decreased ZDDP in new oils).  I remember the unleaded gasoline scare
>tactics of the 70bs.  Did the leaded engines fail from burning unleaded
>fuel?  Did the lead gasoline additives produce income for their
manufactures?
>If you owned a Ford model A, what oil would you choose today?  According to
>API the oil specification is obsolete.    Ibm going to continue using
>Castrol GTX 20W-50 in my Triumph.  If and when I install a new flat tappet
>camshaft, I will follow the cam manufactures instructions; use a good
quality
>30wt oil with plenty of ZDDP.  The links below may be of interest:
>
>API  engine oil guide
>
>http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/EngineOilGuide
2
>006.pdf
>
>Morgan Owners Group January 2007 tech article b
Oil is Killing Our Cars!b

>States b
Latest report #1 Castrol GTX 20W-50 is still good for our cars
after
>break-in!b

>
>http://www.mognw.com/mogazine/Tech_Articles/Oil_Motor.pdf
>
>Update 4 forthcoming,  Regards,  Greg Perry
>_______________________________________________
>thenicholls at verizon.net
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>Triumphs mailing list
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  3 14:03:16 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 15:03:16 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Update 3 Changing oil to full synthetic
Message-ID: <29075865.1191441796675.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

>Help me out here, isn't Castrol GTX 20-50 a non-synthetic?  Is
>'non-synthetic' and 'conventional' the same thing?
>
yes, they are the same.

>Bill B

Regards, Greg Perry

From jrmcarthur at verizon.net  Wed Oct  3 14:20:15 2007
From: jrmcarthur at verizon.net (james mc arthur)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 16:20:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] caliper bolts
Message-ID: <001301c805fa$d10fdde0$2f01a8c0@jamesxicl1s1xg>

Good day to all! Can anyone tell me why the bolts that mount the caliper to 
the vertical link cost almost $10 apiece from Moss? That is $39 and change 
for 4 bolts!What is so special about them? As far as I can see, they are 
7/16" Fine thread by 1 1/2" long. Please, someone shed some light on this 
for me. Thanks!.......Jim McArthur- CF17672U 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct  3 15:24:26 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 17:24:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] caliper bolts
Message-ID: <c79.1fb2c0d7.3435628a@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/3/2007 3:19:00 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jrmcarthur at verizon.net writes: 
> Good day to all! Can anyone tell me why the bolts that mount the caliper to 
> 
> the vertical link cost almost $10 apiece from Moss? That is $39 and change 
> for 4 bolts!What is so special about them? As far as I can see, they are 
> 7/16" Fine thread by 1 1/2" long. Please, someone shed some light on this 
> for me. Thanks!.......Jim McArthur- CF17672U 
> 
Is your life worth $40?   These are special bolts in that they are of the 
strength required and they have shoulders that are the appropriate diameter and 
length.  Buying off the shelf bolts, even hardened ones, they will not have 
shoulders that are the right length and possibly the right diameter. 

The load on these bolts is in shear.  When you step on the brakes the 
calipers apply a torque to the brake rotor and the bolts take up the reactionary 
torque.  This force is transmitted from the bore in the calipers to the shoulder 
of the bolts and then to the caliper mounting brackets on the vertical link.  
Don't compromise this interface, your life may depend on it.

Besides if you buy 7/16 UNF grade 8 bolts at the hardware store they'll cost 
you $3 or $4 anyway.  Pay the extra and get the right parts.

Dave

From KingR44916 at aol.com  Wed Oct  3 15:54:10 2007
From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 17:54:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr6 head
Message-ID: <cb6.19c88a2d.34356982@aol.com>

in the process of rebuilding the head on my 76 tr6 which supplier has the 
best valves etc. 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 16:19:01 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 22:19:01 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 232
Message-ID: <100320072219.17681.47041555000B85490000451122165279669C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

> > Right but without flow between the water pump and the heater 
> > core the water in the heater core will remain at room 
> > temperature except for radiant heat, which would be slow. 
> > And as it warms reasonably in time with my gauge moving it 
> > must be flowing and therefore the thermostat is at least 
> > partially open. 
> 
Wait a minute...wait a minute...wait a minute....  You mean the heater core DOES get above room temperature?

And now I think about it, if the heater core heats the room, how could the heater core ever be other than the room temperature?

Gad, that's why I studied English and not Engineering.

:o)

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From motorcarriage at charter.net  Wed Oct  3 16:28:33 2007
From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 18:28:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] caliper bolts
References: <001301c805fa$d10fdde0$2f01a8c0@jamesxicl1s1xg>
Message-ID: <003901c8060c$bb848ea0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571>

Hi Jim,
       I haven't checked but, I imagine the Bolts You needed were for the 
late TR6 Calipers. The only excuse for that is when Girling tried to 
diversify applications for the Caliper, they opened up the Mounting Holes to 
12 mm., to fit a larger range of Cars. Therefore it's not so much the Bolt 
Grade, but that they have the unusual combination of a UNF Thread(7/16-20) 
with a 12 mm. Shank or Shoulder.
Regards,
Wayne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "james mc arthur" <jrmcarthur at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 4:20 PM
Subject: [TR] caliper bolts


> Good day to all! Can anyone tell me why the bolts that mount the caliper 
> to
> the vertical link cost almost $10 apiece from Moss? That is $39 and change
> for 4 bolts!What is so special about them? As far as I can see, they are
> 7/16" Fine thread by 1 1/2" long. Please, someone shed some light on this
> for me. Thanks!.......Jim McArthur- CF17672U 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct  3 16:31:51 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 15:31:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] caliper bolts
In-Reply-To: <001301c805fa$d10fdde0$2f01a8c0@jamesxicl1s1xg>
Message-ID: <20071003223150.EWVO25784.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> Good day to all! Can anyone tell me why the bolts that mount 
> the caliper to the vertical link cost almost $10 apiece from 
> Moss? That is $39 and change for 4 bolts!What is so special 
> about them? As far as I can see, they are 7/16" Fine thread 
> by 1 1/2" long. Please, someone shed some light on this for 
> me. Thanks!.......

The problem is that the calipers are metric, while the car is SAE.  The bolt
shanks (the unthreaded part) are a special diameter for a snug fit in the
caliper.  Since the bolts are custom-made for this application, they are
more expensive.  The snug fit is considered essential for strength, as
otherwise the bolts would flex when the brakes were applied, and eventually
fail.

BTW, TRF has them on sale at the moment.

Randall

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed Oct  3 19:31:28 2007
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 18:31:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Boggs down*****Not
References: <mailman.3.1191434400.1130.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001201c80626$49120220$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

TR6 was bogging down intermittently. Condition was hard to describe,
basically some times when stepping on the accelerator the car would not get
up and go.
The problem is solved, thank you all for offering thoughts. Randall had the
answer, and Thank you, some vents on the carb were partially blocked by the
air filter canister gaskets. I also put 15w-40 in the dampers, heaviest I
had. Car pulls very nicely. Now I need to make a tire decision.
Regards,
Bob

From skip47 at powernet.net  Wed Oct  3 16:47:35 2007
From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 15:47:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Update 3 Changing oil to full synthetic
References: <16588439.20471331191439268042.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <00be01c8060f$65712890$0100a8c0@ZEUS>

Craig H. Nicholls wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a non-synthetic, non-blend
conventional
> oil that is 20W50 that you can buy locally?

There's a long article discussing the recent changes in oil additives,
particular emphasis on ZDDP:
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
The article includes a list where you can compare almost any oil you can
name.  BradPenn oil looks pretty good; it's the old Kendall green.  My
"local" dealer is about an hour's drive away, but in Nevada, everything's an
hour away.
Skip Gurnee.
64 TR4
65 TR4A

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Oct  3 18:02:10 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 20:02:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 232
In-Reply-To: <100320072219.17681.47041555000B85490000451122165279669C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4703F542.18793.17791C0@localhost>

On 3 Oct 2007 at 22:19, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

> And now I think about it, if the heater core heats the room, how
> could the heater core ever be other than the room temperature?

If the heater core heats the room, how could it ever *not* be hotter 
than the room temperature?

It's like this, Terry.  Heat flow from a higher temperature to a 
lower one, kinda' like how money from Massachusetts drivers' pockets 
flows downhill into New Hampshire toll booths.  If the heater core 
isn't hotter than the room, there will be no heat flow and the room 
will never be warmed.  On a cold day, heat flows from the room to the 
outside through the walls, windows, doors, floor, ceiling.  This will 
continue until the temperature of the room eventually reaches the 
same temperature as the outdoors.  In order to keep the room warm, 
the heater core must be warmer than the room so that heat flows from 
the core to the room.  The ultimate temperature of the room will be 
whatever produces an equilibrium between heat coming from the core 
and begin lost to the outside.  When Massachusetts drivers no longer 
have any loose change, they will stop driving through New Hampshire 
toll booths.

Aren't you glad you asked?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
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From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  3 18:09:41 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 19:09:41 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Update 3 Changing oil to full synthetic
Message-ID: <24716844.1191456581783.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Thanks Skip,

That's a very good article!

Regards,  Greg Perry 

-----Original Message-----
>From: Skip Gurnee <skip47 at powernet.net>
>Sent: Oct 3, 2007 5:47 PM
>To: thenicholls at verizon.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, Greg Perry <rgperry at earthlink.net>
>Subject: Re: [TR] Update 3 Changing oil to full synthetic
>
>Craig H. Nicholls wrote:
>> Does anyone have a recommendation for a non-synthetic, non-blend
>conventional
>> oil that is 20W50 that you can buy locally?
>
>There's a long article discussing the recent changes in oil additives,
>particular emphasis on ZDDP:
>http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
>The article includes a list where you can compare almost any oil you can
>name.  BradPenn oil looks pretty good; it's the old Kendall green.  My
>"local" dealer is about an hour's drive away, but in Nevada, everything's an
>hour away.
>Skip Gurnee.
>64 TR4
>65 TR4A

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  3 18:13:31 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 19:13:31 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Update 3 Changing oil to full synthetic
Message-ID: <870824.1191456811507.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Thanks Skip,

That's a very good article!

Regards,  Greg Perry 

>There's a long article discussing the recent changes in oil additives,
>particular emphasis on ZDDP:
>http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
>Skip Gurnee.

From Andy.dixon at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 18:34:35 2007
From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 20:34:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Solid state fuel pump location
Message-ID: <019c01c8061e$5818e070$6700a8c0@andy>

For those of you who have added a solid state fuel pump, the cube looking
thing, where is a good location?

Im putting mine on a TR3, and as Im replumbing with AN fittings and
stainless braid covered hose, location isnt really a problem except the
instructions say not to mount it in the engine compartment and to keep it
away from heat.

Suggestions anyone?

Andy


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10:08 AM

From bbrewer at tvwireless.net  Wed Oct  3 18:41:38 2007
From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 17:41:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission Gear Noises
Message-ID: <5DD63256-1F61-4EE7-91C9-075274C5DCB7@tvwireless.net>

     I have a TR6 transmission with A-type overdrive in my TR3.  
Recently it has developed a noise when accelerating in 3rd gear.  I  
think that anti-rattle spring is still in place and the transmission  
has fluif. What causes the whirring noise?

      Bill Brewer
      Tehachapi, CA

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Oct  3 18:48:31 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 20:48:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Caliper Confusion
Message-ID: <000301c80620$4b1274c0$210110ac@bobspc>

The proper bolts to use on the calipers is timely for me as a brake system
rebuild is one of my winter projects. But I'm confused over the timing
switch to the metric caliper bolts. What I think I've read here is that the
TR6's with 16PB calipers got the metric bolts but that's contradictory to
what the TRF Blue Book says as follows: 

16P Caliper, Imperial - up to CC29929 (early '69)
16PB Caliper, Imperial - from CC29930 and up to CC81078 (late '69 - mid '72)
M16P Caliper, Metric - after CC81078 (late '72 on)

However....if you look at the Moss and TRF catalogs, there's no mention of
the M16P caliper and they've labeled the 16PB as Metric, yet the commission
numbers match the Blue Book. Is the TRF Blue Book wrong? Or am I just
interpreting this wrong?

My '76, CF38503 has calipers stamped 16PB which would be correct per the
catalogs but not the Blue Book.

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 



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Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 - Release Date: 10/2/2007
6:43 PM

From motorcarriage at charter.net  Wed Oct  3 19:51:02 2007
From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 21:51:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Caliper Confusion
References: <000301c80620$4b1274c0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <001a01c80629$057468c0$e8f00a47@D794W231>

Hi Bob,
     I don't know where the M16P label came from, as I've never heard of it, 
I was referring
to the late 72 on (PB Caliper as I've known it) Caliper as having 12 mm.. 
mounting holes.
That is the Metric Caliper. That's what's special about the Bolts, mounts a 
Metric Caliper
with it's 12 mm.through holes, to an Upright with  7/16-20 UNF threaded 
holes.
Regards,
Wayne Lee
75 TR6
64 TR4
58 TR3

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 8:48 PM
Subject: [TR] Brake Caliper Confusion


> The proper bolts to use on the calipers is timely for me as a brake system
> rebuild is one of my winter projects. But I'm confused over the timing
> switch to the metric caliper bolts. What I think I've read here is that 
> the
> TR6's with 16PB calipers got the metric bolts but that's contradictory to
> what the TRF Blue Book says as follows:
>
> 16P Caliper, Imperial - up to CC29929 (early '69)
> 16PB Caliper, Imperial - from CC29930 and up to CC81078 (late '69 - mid 
> '72)
> M16P Caliper, Metric - after CC81078 (late '72 on)
>
> However....if you look at the Moss and TRF catalogs, there's no mention of
> the M16P caliper and they've labeled the 16PB as Metric, yet the 
> commission
> numbers match the Blue Book. Is the TRF Blue Book wrong? Or am I just
> interpreting this wrong?
>
> My '76, CF38503 has calipers stamped 16PB which would be correct per the
> catalogs but not the Blue Book.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Oct  3 20:29:00 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 22:29:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Solid state fuel pump location
In-Reply-To: <019c01c8061e$5818e070$6700a8c0@andy>
References: <019c01c8061e$5818e070$6700a8c0@andy>
Message-ID: <001101c8062e$5a9d7530$210110ac@bobspc>

As I recall, you should mount it close to the tank and fairly low. I had
mine mounted in the trunk floor next to the tank with no problems. Make sure
you note the fuel flow direction.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andy
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 8:35 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Solid state fuel pump location

For those of you who have added a solid state fuel pump, the cube looking
thing, where is a good location?

Im putting mine on a TR3, and as Im replumbing with AN fittings and
stainless braid covered hose, location isnt really a problem except the
instructions say not to mount it in the engine compartment and to keep it
away from heat.

Suggestions anyone?

Andy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.0/1046 - Release Date: 10/3/2007
10:08 AM
_______________________________________________
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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6:43 PM

From dorpaul at negia.net  Wed Oct  3 21:01:10 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 23:01:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] crude captive nuts
Message-ID: <00a101c80632$d2c88ff0$1694df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I have not finished testing this product, but, ....

if you want me to send you a pic then send me a reply asking, but,

I've come up with an idea for a captive nut and it seems it will work, but,
instead of 1/4"- 28tpi it is 1/4" - 20 tpi

This will cause many listees to sneer at you.

A captive nut was used by Triumph (and many others) to hold a nut from an
inaccessable location, however, it requires some welding.  And since  I've
already done the majority of the welding on my car before my welder broke
(with a runaway mig wire feed), I sought a cheaper way:

Since to remove my captive nut (when I was dissassembling my TR3) I used a
sawzall to slice open the rear of the cage holding the captive mut.  This
allowed me to remove the corroded four-sided nut, AND leave a partial cage
still welded to the inaccessable rear.  It is to this partial cage that I
wired a wing nut.  Several wraps of wire and the wing nut 'stays in position'
and is immovable due to the stationary cage.  Do the wrapping with a bolt thru
the nut, after this, remove the bolt.

Hey!  Better than a toggle-bolt!

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey60 TR3

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Oct  3 21:30:44 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 23:30:44 EDT
Subject: [TR] crude captive nuts
Message-ID: <d28.15b20cfc.3435b864@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/3/2007 8:05:49 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
dorpaul at negia.net writes:

Since to  remove my captive nut (when I was dissassembling my TR3) I used a
sawzall  to slice open the rear of the cage holding the captive mut.   This
allowed me to remove the corroded four-sided nut, AND leave a partial  cage
still welded to the inaccessable rear.  It is to this partial  cage that I
wired a wing nut.  Several wraps of wire and the wing nut  'stays in position'
and is immovable due to the stationary cage.  Do  the wrapping with a bolt 
thru
the nut, after this, remove the  bolt.



I have repaired these by opening obe side, replacing the nut, then bending  
the side back. I have also replaced these by iveting the new cage on.
Mike Moore 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 21:35:48 2007
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 20:35:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Solid state fuel pump location
References: <019c01c8061e$5818e070$6700a8c0@andy>
Message-ID: <00c201c80637$ac9df4a0$8701a8c0@Dell>

When I put one on my TR3A, I made a bracket out of galvanized steel 
strapping, the stuff with the regular spaced holes. (14 ga., 1 1/2 inches 
wide - I just measured it).  It was 2 pieces, 1 bent into a "C" shape with 
ears that wrapped around the frame in front of the axle.  The other piece 
was straight and it bolted to the 1st piece and the fuel pump was bolted to 
that. I can't remember all the details, I have since removed it, but I know 
I used "O" rings between the fuel pump and the bracket and I think I used 
some rubber gasket material between the bracket and the frame.  It did run 
pretty quite, could barely hear it even with the motor off.

I would recommend that you put a filter before the pump and a shut-off valve 
before the filter.

HTH,
Bob


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andy" <Andy.dixon at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 5:34 PM
Subject: [TR] Solid state fuel pump location


> For those of you who have added a solid state fuel pump, the cube looking
> thing, where is a good location?
>
> Im putting mine on a TR3, and as Im replumbing with AN fittings and
> stainless braid covered hose, location isnt really a problem except the
> instructions say not to mount it in the engine compartment and to keep it
> away from heat.
>
> Suggestions anyone?
>
> Andy
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.0/1046 - Release Date: 10/3/2007
> 10:08 AM
> _______________________________________________
> kinderlehrer at comcast.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct  3 23:43:37 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 22:43:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Caliper Confusion
In-Reply-To: <000301c80620$4b1274c0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <20071004054337.LZTN25784.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> 16P Caliper, Imperial - up to CC29929 (early '69) 16PB 
> Caliper, Imperial - from CC29930 and up to CC81078 (late '69 
> - mid '72) M16P Caliper, Metric - after CC81078 (late '72 on)

Bob, I don't know where the M16P designation came from; perhaps that is what
Girling called them or possibly TRF made it up on their own.  But I do know
that the 'metric' calipers found on later TR6 have "16PB" cast into them,
and look to be the same castings as the earlier SAE 16PB calipers.  They are
just machined differently with metric threads & bolt holes.  Different pad
retaining pins too, as I recall.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct  3 23:46:24 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 22:46:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission Gear Noises
In-Reply-To: <5DD63256-1F61-4EE7-91C9-075274C5DCB7@tvwireless.net>
Message-ID: <20071004054624.NAJZ660.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

>      I have a TR6 transmission with A-type overdrive in my TR3.  
> Recently it has developed a noise when accelerating in 3rd 
> gear.  I think that anti-rattle spring is still in place and 
> the transmission has fluif. What causes the whirring noise?

Have you drained the oil and looked for sparklies (or swarf on the magnetic
drain plug if you've installed one) ?  Hard to say without actually hearing
it, but my WAG would be that the front countershaft bearing is going away.

Randall

From hupshall at triumphcars.com  Thu Oct  4 01:48:35 2007
From: hupshall at triumphcars.com (Huw Upshall)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 00:48:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] 16" Panasport
Message-ID: <E0D5A2117398D842B051C66F295A601D01B3F354EC49@animal.redmond.upshall.net>

Can anybody tell me the best & least expensive place to purchase 16x7
panasports for a TR250?

--
Sent using Microsoft Exchange Server 2007

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Thu Oct  4 05:49:55 2007
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 13:49:55 +0200
Subject: [TR] distributor TR6
Message-ID: <00f001c8067c$aecb2780$0c617680$@com>

Hello,

I'm in need of a distributor of a TR6. If anybody's willing to part with
his, gimme a shout offline. Any condition considered.

Best regards

Eric

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Thu Oct  4 06:01:54 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 08:01:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] HUGE Donation for ABRR Kid's Charity Run
Message-ID: <020301c8067e$5cf70e40$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a>

Wow...

I'm verklempt!  In this morning's email was a note from a lister wishing to
remain anonymous who will be making a $4,000 donation to the Wisconsin
charity, The Center for Blind and Visually Impaired kids
(http://www.cbvic.org/).  The run's website: http://www.abrr.org.

Thank you, 
thank you, 
thank you!

Blake Discher, Event Organizer
America's British Reliability Run
Ph: 313-259-4460

-----

Part of my "Ain't to Proud to Beg" initial email...

Come Saturday, 25 British cars will begin the fifth annual "America's
British Reliability Run."  This year there will be two groups participating
in two different locations.  One in the Wisconsin run, driving 800 miles in
two days through Wisconsin, Minnesota and Michigan's Upper Peninsula.
Another group will drive the Ohio run, again driving 800 miles in two days
through Ohio, Virginia and Maryland.  In four years the run has raised more
than $110,000 for children's charities!  
 
The charity for the Wisconsin run is the Center for Blind & Visually
Impaired Children. The Center offers a coordinated program of educational
intervention and prescribed therapies to infants and toddlers who are blind
or visually impaired, including those with additional disabilities.
Website: http://www.cbvic.org/.  At the end of this run we'll all park our
cars at the Center for an "It's OK to Touch" car show for the visually
impaired kids!
 
The charity for the Ohio run is Adventures for Wishkids, whose mission is to
enrich the lives of children with life threatening illnesses and their
families by providing year round, fun-filled group activities and
destination events, fostering joy, laughter, normalcy and supportive
networking opportunities. Web: http://www.afwkids.org/.
 
One hundred percent of your donation goes to the charity, teams pay their
own expenses out of pocket. In fact, your donation is made directly to the
charity of your choice. Please help as you can - every little bit counts,
and we welcome contributions large and small!  You can donate by visiting
the secure server site provided by our corporate sponsor, the Little British
Car Company.  Just follow this link:
https://securemg.ipl.co.uk/lbcarco/mibrr.html to donate safely and securely
online.  

Event web site: http://www.abrr.org.  Your contribution is tax deductible.

From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Oct  4 06:44:29 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 08:44:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Solid state fuel pump location
References: <019c01c8061e$5818e070$6700a8c0@andy>
Message-ID: <001b01c80684$4e333e50$5918e247@DCS78M81>

I have a later style TR3A with the back seat so there is  vertical metal in 
front of the fuel tank.  I mounted mine here. It's just behind the driver's 
seat back.  I did mount a filter - glass with disposable insert - before the 
pump and did not install a cut off, but I think that's a great idea. I did 
install the shutoff in the engine compartment, but that's more for looks 
than helping with changing a filter when the tank is full. My wiring runs 
along the passenger side with the harness then under the carpet to behind 
the driver's seat then through the vertical to the pump. Nice installation 
and up out of the way. In the trunk would be handier to change, but loss of 
alot of space. I don't know if it could fit behind the tank but infront of 
the trunk vertical panel.
Hope this helps.
Tom
Tom 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct  3 12:42:32 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 11:42:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Update 2 Changing oil to full synthetic
In-Reply-To: <2105745.1191434670181.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20071003184233.IIFZ21078.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> There is probably a problem 
> with the new oil
> formulations being used to break-in a new flat tappet 
> camshaft.

Well said, Greg.  One other observation, which I've commented on before ...
the problems with new Triumph camshafts and lifters started long _before_
the ZDDP in some motor oils was reduced.

Randall

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Oct  4 07:40:06 2007
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 07:40:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] 16" Panasport
References: <E0D5A2117398D842B051C66F295A601D01B3F354EC49@animal.redmond.upshall.net>
Message-ID: <001701c8068c$14115f10$f950464b@rolofson>

Buy some on ebay from someone who changed their mind on using them.  That's
how I snagged mine.  Wheels, covers, and lug nuts for well under $1K.

Bud


71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Huw Upshall
  To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 1:48 AM
  Subject: [TR] 16" Panasport


  Can anybody tell me the best & least expensive place to purchase 16x7
  panasports for a TR250?

  --
  Sent using Microsoft Exchange Server 2007
  _______________________________________________
  levilevi at comcast.net

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org

  Triumphs mailing list
  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Thu Oct  4 08:16:44 2007
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 10:16:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wide belt alternator pulley
Message-ID: <380-22007104414164425@M2W031.mail2web.com>

For what it's worth, those of you who need a wide alternator pulley when
changing over to the GM style alternator, I found a company that has a bolt
on pulley specifically for GM alternators for a 5/8ths inch belt - can't
remember what I was needed for (TR4?) or even if that is the width needed,
but for those of you needing one - about $15

The place is Speedway motors (www.speedwaymotors.com) part number 91016250,
or just do a search for pulley on their site.  Lots of other street rod
parts too -

Just another source -

Barry Schwartz (San Diego, CA)

--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology -
http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE

From sportycars at britishcarweek.org  Thu Oct  4 08:37:33 2007
From: sportycars at britishcarweek.org (sportycars at britishcarweek.org)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 10:37:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A FS
Message-ID: <001201c80694$1ac1e3e0$6400a8c0@GrandTerrain>

Hi folks,

I need to clear some space, and have a very decent 1959 TR3A project car for
sale. Anyone interested can inquire within. Everything matches, and includes
steel hard top.

Thanks,

Scott Helms
Northern Indiana

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Thu Oct  4 09:21:55 2007
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 08:21:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Locking rear brake TR6
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0BA45319@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Suggestions, please.
On very hard braking, my right rear wheel locks.  I have re-bled the
lines, checked the shoes - are OK.  The brake lines are not clogged -
the rubber flex hoses were replaced with braided s/s about a year ago.
The adjustment seems right, but I am considering backing off the
adjustment on that wheel.  Thoughts?

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily driver

From richhalpern at verizon.net  Thu Oct  4 09:39:12 2007
From: richhalpern at verizon.net (richhalpern at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 10:39:12 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Inertia reel seatbelts in a TR4
Message-ID: <1339740.20742851191512352930.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>

Hello all,

Well the TR4 is back from paint now for about two months, and I am putting the new interior from Moss into the car, and it looks great! I am about to begin installation of the new inertial reel belts that I picked up from TRF, and was not sure of the correct mounting location for the reel part of the system, since the TR4 did not come with these belts as original. Does it get positioned on the top or side of the rear wheel well, or somewhere else? Appreciate the help, or pics if you have them.

Regards,
Rich
61 TR4
Lansdale PA

From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com  Thu Oct  4 10:36:14 2007
From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 09:36:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR6 gearbox and overdrive (A type)
Message-ID: <926038.88970.qm@web51305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

My wife cought me dragging her new wwhite bathroom
scale out to the garage to weigh the gearbos, does
anyone out there have teh weight on a TR6 gearbox with
A type overdrive?

Thanks for the help, and teh clean scale.
Steve


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Thu Oct  4 11:34:26 2007
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 13:34:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] 16" Panasport
Message-ID: <d26.14ea7fd8.34367e22@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/4/2007 7:41:19 AM Mountain Daylight Time,  
levilevi at comcast.net writes:

Buy some  on ebay from someone who changed their mind on using them.  That's
how  I snagged mine.  Wheels, covers, and lug nuts for well under  $1K.

Bud



I bought 15x6.5 Panasport look alikes...appear to be powderdcoated  instead 
of raw aluminum, for under $600 including freight on Ebay.  I can't  remember 
the name, but he lists these wheels all the time, powerseller, ebay  store, etc.
 
I know they are probably heavier than they should be, but they look nice on  
my MGB.
 
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct  4 11:35:01 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 10:35:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Locking rear brake TR6
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0BA45319@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0BA45319@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <01e401c806ac$e4793770$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> On very hard braking, my right rear wheel locks.  I have re-bled the
> lines, checked the shoes - are OK.  The brake lines are not clogged -
> the rubber flex hoses were replaced with braided s/s about a year ago.
> The adjustment seems right, but I am considering backing off the
> adjustment on that wheel.  Thoughts?

Adjustment is not likely to help, IMO.  The hydraulics will just take up the
slack before you get any braking.

First thing to check is wheel alignment, tire pressure, bearings, etc.
particularly the mounts where the trailing arms attach to the frame.   If
there isn't something causing reduced traction at that wheel, then usually
the problem is that the other wheels aren't doing their share.  If there was
some magic trick to make the drum brakes work better, the car makers would
have already done it.

Had a TR3A for awhile that would pull dramatically to the left on moderate
braking and lock the LF wheel.  Problem turned out to be that the lower rear
mount for the LF suspension had pulled away from the frame.  And the
alignment shop hadn't caught it.

Randall

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Thu Oct  4 12:17:28 2007
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 14:17:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 238
Message-ID: <cc8.1c752f28.34368838@cs.com>

I think it is about 135#s. I shipped one or two and with the crate I was 
right at the UPS !50# limit. I am shooting from the hip, but I'll bet I am close.

Joe

> My wife cought me dragging her new wwhite bathroom
> scale out to the garage to weigh the gearbos, does
> anyone out there have teh weight on a TR6 gearbox with
> A type overdrive?
> 
> Thanks for the help, and teh clean scale.
> Steve
> 

   </HTML>

From hdrider570 at peoplepc.com  Thu Oct  4 13:39:53 2007
From: hdrider570 at peoplepc.com (hdrider570 at peoplepc.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 12:39:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Locking rear brake TR6
Message-ID: <004a01c806be$5a7acf90$e0b05545@DFKQ4L31>

Check to make sure that the inside diameter of both drums is the same.  A larger diameter means more "leverage" and will cause early 
lock up.  Also check to see if there is a significant ridge on the outer edge of the drum as this also can cause the drum to lock 
early.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA 

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Thu Oct  4 13:50:58 2007
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 19:50:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] Locking rear brake TR6
Message-ID: <100420071950.27158.470544220000D1E800006A1622007623029D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net>

Did you just change the shoes? The may need to be arced to the dums or there may be dirt on one or the other.  Sometimes some sandpaper on the shoes and brake cleaner on the drums will solve the problem.  Or maybe you should take that bald tire off the right rear. :-)


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> > On very hard braking, my right rear wheel locks.  I have re-bled the
> > lines, checked the shoes - are OK.  The brake lines are not clogged -
> > the rubber flex hoses were replaced with braided s/s about a year ago.
> > The adjustment seems right, but I am considering backing off the
> > adjustment on that wheel.  Thoughts?
> 
> Adjustment is not likely to help, IMO.  The hydraulics will just take up the
> slack before you get any braking.
> 
> First thing to check is wheel alignment, tire pressure, bearings, etc.
> particularly the mounts where the trailing arms attach to the frame.   If
> there isn't something causing reduced traction at that wheel, then usually
> the problem is that the other wheels aren't doing their share.  If there was
> some magic trick to make the drum brakes work better, the car makers would
> have already done it.
> 
> Had a TR3A for awhile that would pull dramatically to the left on moderate
> braking and lock the LF wheel.  Problem turned out to be that the lower rear
> mount for the LF suspension had pulled away from the frame.  And the
> alignment shop hadn't caught it.
> 
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
> kinderlehrer at comcast.net
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From jrmcarthur at verizon.net  Thu Oct  4 14:14:46 2007
From: jrmcarthur at verizon.net (james mc arthur)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 16:14:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] caliper bolts revisited
Message-ID: <001701c806c3$3622f870$2f01a8c0@jamesxicl1s1xg>

    Good day to all and many thanks to all that replied to my original post. 
I have made a trip out to the garage and here is what I found; now I'm more 
confused. The outer casting, the side facing me has "type P" stamped into 
it, while the back side has"type PB" stamped into it. I measured the inside 
diameter of the mounting hole in question and it measures a tad over 12MM, 
or  15/32". Am I right to think that I do indeed have  metric calipers, 
regardless of the stampings, based on the fact of the 12MM dimension? As 
always, many thanks in advance..........Jim McArthur/ CF17672U 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Oct  4 15:01:12 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 17:01:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] Locking rear brake TR6
Message-ID: <c22.1fdac4ed.3436ae98@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/4/2007 10:22:10 AM Central Daylight Time, 
arakelianp at mossmotors.com writes: 
> Suggestions, please.
> On very hard braking, my right rear wheel locks.  I have re-bled the
> lines, checked the shoes - are OK.  The brake lines are not clogged -
> the rubber flex hoses were replaced with braided s/s about a year ago.
> The adjustment seems right, but I am considering backing off the
> adjustment on that wheel.  Thoughts?
> 
Brake shoe contamination?  My TR3 was really bad about that.  It got to the 
point where the brake would stay locked even after I released the pedal.  
Relined shoes and new wheel cylinders cured it.

Dave   

From motorcarriage at charter.net  Thu Oct  4 15:02:49 2007
From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 17:02:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] caliper bolts revisited
References: <001701c806c3$3622f870$2f01a8c0@jamesxicl1s1xg>
Message-ID: <013501c806c9$ec3b46c0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571>

Hi Jim,
     Yes, You're safe to conclude that You have the Metric Calipers and that 
You need the late style Bolts with the 12 mm. Shank.
Regards,
Wayne



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "james mc arthur" <jrmcarthur at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:14 PM
Subject: [TR] caliper bolts revisited


>    Good day to all and many thanks to all that replied to my original 
> post.
> I have made a trip out to the garage and here is what I found; now I'm 
> more
> confused. The outer casting, the side facing me has "type P" stamped into
> it, while the back side has"type PB" stamped into it. I measured the 
> inside
> diameter of the mounting hole in question and it measures a tad over 12MM,
> or  15/32". Am I right to think that I do indeed have  metric calipers,
> regardless of the stampings, based on the fact of the 12MM dimension? As
> always, many thanks in advance..........Jim McArthur/ CF17672U

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Thu Oct  4 20:49:20 2007
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 22:49:20 EDT
Subject: [TR] Locking rear brake TR6
Message-ID: <d17.17b23371.34370030@aol.com>

Locking drums are caused by one of the following.

Oil / brake fluid soaked shoes

Primary and secondary shoes reversed ( only with a self energizing system )

Worn backing plate contact pads ( where the side brake shoe rests )

Worn backing plates are the most common failure if nothing else is visible.
What happens is the shoe twists as it rides out of the grooved contact pad
causing it to twist and lock.

Harold
**************************************
 See what's new at
http://www.aol.com

From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Oct  4 22:13:06 2007
From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 05:13:06 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] TR4A missing AGAIN!
Message-ID: <302510.51936.qm@web27409.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Dear long suffering Listers,
  We just arrived back from the Nairobi Concours proudly carrying 3 prizes, none of which was for firing on 4 cylinders....
  After about 10miles from home the trouble started and we ended up driving the whole way firing on 3. (No 2 was not firing, very wet with unburnt fuel but No 1 plug looked right).
  When in Nairobi I had the help of 2 competent enthusiasts and we replaced:plugs, points, condenser, plug leads, dizzy cap and were getting a strong spark. We also checked float levels, diaphragms, operation and adjustment of carbs, made sure no air leaks between carbs and manifold, adequate fuel supply and still no luck. We also checked the tension of valve springs.
  By the time I left we had discovered that by blocking off 80% of the air inlet of the front carb, the engine would run nicely (on 4 cylinders) above 2000rpm (like a dog below 2000). This is how we got home (using duct tape over 80% of intake).
  I have now checked the compression again and 1 and 2 are about 8% higher than 3 and 4. All 4 plugs look as though burning correctly.
  I am sure the secret is in the "muffling" of the carb intake but am at my wits end.
  Any ideas or is it time to remove the head?
  TIA,
  Chris Buckley

       
---------------------------------
 For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Oct  4 23:39:33 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 23:39:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A missing AGAIN!
In-Reply-To: <302510.51936.qm@web27409.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20071005053944.26C811879D6@autox.team.net>

Did you check to see if the cam is lifting the intake/exhaust valve fully?
Maybe a worn or bent pushrod that adjustments have compensated for so your
valve lash measurements are correct...?

It sounds like your problem has to be fuel, but I can't see that it would be
in the carburetion.  Have you looked for obstructions in the manifold?

Please keep us posted as you proceed, my #2 is also weak and gives me a
little problem at continued low speeds but I know that the compression is
only 90psi compared to 120-130 in 1, 3 & 4.   This is the teardown winter so
I will live with it for another month.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration)
"A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!"




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris
Buckley
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 10:13 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A missing AGAIN!

Dear long suffering Listers,
  We just arrived back from the Nairobi Concours proudly carrying 3 prizes,
none of which was for firing on 4 cylinders....
  After about 10miles from home the trouble started and we ended up driving
the whole way firing on 3. (No 2 was not firing, very wet with unburnt fuel
but No 1 plug looked right).
  When in Nairobi I had the help of 2 competent enthusiasts and we
replaced:plugs, points, condenser, plug leads, dizzy cap and were getting a
strong spark. We also checked float levels, diaphragms, operation and
adjustment of carbs, made sure no air leaks between carbs and manifold,
adequate fuel supply and still no luck. We also checked the tension of valve
springs.
  By the time I left we had discovered that by blocking off 80% of the air
inlet of the front carb, the engine would run nicely (on 4 cylinders) above
2000rpm (like a dog below 2000). This is how we got home (using duct tape
over 80% of intake).
  I have now checked the compression again and 1 and 2 are about 8% higher
than 3 and 4. All 4 plugs look as though burning correctly.
  I am sure the secret is in the "muffling" of the carb intake but am at my
wits end.
  Any ideas or is it time to remove the head?
  TIA,
  Chris Buckley

       
---------------------------------
 For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this
month.
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Fri Oct  5 00:31:49 2007
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 01:31:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  TR4A missing AGAIN!
Message-ID: <200710050632.l956Vw7I226725@ns3.geneseo.net>

>Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 01:29:41 -0500
>To: Chris Buckley <chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk>
>From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net>
>Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A missing AGAIN!
>
>There is also another one that is quite difficult to diagnose, 
>sometimes. If a valve spring is broken very near the end, the spring 
>may remain in place but the valve may not close properly.
>
>At 11:13 PM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
>>Dear long suffering Listers,
>>   We just arrived back from the Nairobi Concours proudly carrying 
>> 3 prizes, none of which was for firing on 4 cylinders....
>>
>
>uncle jack

uncle jack 



------------------------------------------------
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Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Fri Oct  5 00:32:09 2007
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 01:32:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  TR4A missing AGAIN!
Message-ID: <200710050632.l956WJpe228770@ns3.geneseo.net>

>Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 01:03:47 -0500
>To: Chris Buckley <chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk>,Peter Arakelian
>From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net>
>Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A missing AGAIN!
>
>You may have a carb problem. I had a really strange one that took a 
>year to diagnose, with HS6 SU carbs. Mine got so bad that it 
>wouldn't pull itself around the block, My symptoms were different, 
>but at least it is something for you to look at.
>
>What kind of carbs are on your car?
>
>In case you or anyone else has a problem like this, mine turned out 
>to be the jet tubes to the carburetors. On HS6's, the line from the 
>float bowl to the jet tube is covered with a tightly wound spring. I 
>think the purpose of the spring is to prevent the plastic tube 
>inside from kinking. Well, something changed in the manufacture of 
>those parts, and the plastic line will kink. You can't see this 
>unless you remove the jet tube and line, remove the spring, and bend 
>the tube the same way it was bent on the car. In addition to the 
>fault being hidden, it doesn't show up immediately on new parts.
>
>This happened on two of my cars, on about three sets of jet tubes in 
>a row. Maddening to diagnose. The car will run for awhile at low 
>rpm, because just enough gas gets through to sustain it.
>
>I solved the problem by purchasing jet tubes from British Parts 
>Northwest, which look inferior but in real life are better, because 
>they eliminate this problem. With that part, the tube is a rather 
>stiff rubber hose and it doesn't kink. The ends are plastic fittings 
>with a barb on them. Not trusting just a barb in a rubber hose, I 
>safety wire them.
>
>At 11:13 PM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
>>Dear long suffering Listers,
>>   We just arrived back from the Nairobi Concours proudly carrying 
>> 3 prizes, none of which was for firing on 4 cylinders....
>>   After about 10miles from home the trouble started and we ended 
>> up driving the whole way firing on 3. (No 2 was not firing, very 
>> wet with unburnt fuel but No 1 plug looked right).
>>
>>   TIA,
>>   Chris Buckley
>>
>>
>>---------------------------------
>>  For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good 
>> this month.
>>_______________________________________________
>>vinttr4 at geneseo.net
>>
>>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>>http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>Triumphs mailing list
>>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>uncle jack

uncle jack 



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From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Oct  5 01:22:59 2007
From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 08:22:59 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  TR4A missing AGAIN!
Message-ID: <199745.82869.qm@web27411.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

  I have Strromberg 175 CD. There is no plastic tube but the car does idle and muffling the intake would (I think) tend to draw more fuel through to the pot. So thanks, I will look into that also.
   
  
"Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net> wrote:
  >Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 01:03:47 -0500
>To: Chris Buckley ,Peter Arakelian
>From: "Jack W. Drews" 
>Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A missing AGAIN!
>
>You may have a carb problem. I had a really strange one that took a 
>year to diagnose, with HS6 SU carbs. Mine got so bad that it 
>wouldn't pull itself around the block, My symptoms were different, 
>but at least it is something for you to look at.
>
>What kind of carbs are on your car?
>
    
---------------------------------
  Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Try it now.

       
---------------------------------
 For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.

From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Oct  5 01:25:48 2007
From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 08:25:48 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  TR4A missing AGAIN!
Message-ID: <416018.52174.qm@web27404.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

    Dear uncle Jack,
  if the valve was not closing properly, would I get such high compression?
  

"Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net> wrote:
  >Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 01:29:41 -0500
>To: Chris Buckley 
>From: "Jack W. Drews" 
>Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A missing AGAIN!
>
>There is also another one that is quite difficult to diagnose, 
>sometimes. If a valve spring is broken very near the end, the spring 
>may remain in place but the valve may not close properly.
>
>    
---------------------------------
  For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month. 

       
---------------------------------
 For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.

From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Oct  5 01:30:54 2007
From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 08:30:54 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] TR4A missing AGAIN!
Message-ID: <206255.15999.qm@web27408.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Thanks, I will check that intake and exhaust valves open the same as others. Definitely no obstruction in the manifold.

wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:  Did you check to see if the cam is lifting the intake/exhaust valve fully?
Maybe a worn or bent pushrod that adjustments have compensated for so your
valve lash measurements are correct...?

It sounds like your problem has to be fuel, but I can't see that it would be
in the carburetion. Have you looked for obstructions in the manifold?


       
---------------------------------
 Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Tryit now.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct  5 03:52:58 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 02:52:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  TR4A missing AGAIN!
In-Reply-To: <416018.52174.qm@web27404.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20071005095257.FDEP21078.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

>   if the valve was not closing properly, would I get such 
> high compression?

Weak springs (or broken right at the end) may not show up in a compression
test because it's done at such low rpm.  But let the valve float (not close
completely) at higher rpm.

Randall

From trglory at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 07:35:24 2007
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 09:35:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Weep for me
In-Reply-To: <200710031303.l93D3i9S164524@ns3.geneseo.net>
References: <005d01c80556$978a51d0$c69ef570$@net>
	<200710031303.l93D3i9S164524@ns3.geneseo.net>
Message-ID: <007301c80754$95fde1b0$c1f9a510$@net>

Hi Guys;

Thanks for the advice. I just got the engine buttoned up a few months ago
and I'm in no mood to take it apart again. I'll give the Loctite a try.

I'm sure that head removal isn't a big deal to a seasoned racer, but I'm a
pretty bad mechanic, so if the Loctite doesn't work I'll live with it until
I have some other reason to lift the head.

We'll see you at Watkins Glen next September.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Jack W. Drews [mailto:vinttr4 at geneseo.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:04 AM
To: Joe Laurito; Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] Weep for me

At 07:44 PM 10/2/2007, Joe Laurito wrote:
>Speaking of oil leaks, my TR3 weeps around the push rod tubes. Any easy way
>of fixing that or do I live with it?


I know of several ways. Each has variable success.

1. Use JB Weld. Put a thin fillet of it around joint under spark 
plug. Must remove paint first.

2. Do same around of top, inside valve cover. I don't like this 
because sometimes it will come loose and get into engine.

3. Use Loctite green - it is the kind that wicks into a joint. You 
must have all oil off the surfaces,, which means liberal application 
of lacquer thinner and compressed air to the joint inside the valve 
cover and under the spark plugs. Then just apply a little of this 
stuff to the joint. Works if the head is totally clean - may or may 
not work otherwise, depending on how clean you can get the joint.

4. I've had my machine shop make up a swaging tool that we use after 
any head milling. Basically it is two cones, top and bottom, pressed 
lightly by a press. Head must be off of course.


>

uncle jack 



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From mgodley at tiac.net  Fri Oct  5 12:16:37 2007
From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 14:16:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A missing AGAIN!
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21549.1191565963.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21549.1191565963.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <568C057162514B17B9402A9EEDD095D6@MichaelPC>

I had a similar problem with a rebuild kit for the Stromberg 175-CDs on my
65 TR4A.  A jet was hanging up on an internal spring that was part of the
lower jet assembly.  I installed the old jets and everything was OK....but
it took months to find it , and was just luck that I finally stumbled upon
the solution.....never thought that the new parts would be so out of spec.

So if the car will fire on all cylinders at slightly higher rpm's on one
carb you might consider a complete disassemble of the other carb


++++++++++++++++
You may have a carb problem. I had a really strange one that took a 
>year to diagnose, with HS6 SU carbs. Mine got so bad that it 
>wouldn't pull itself around the block, My symptoms were different, 
>but at least it is something for you to look at.
>
>What kind of carbs are on your car?

----- *****************

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Fri Oct  5 14:00:28 2007
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 13:00:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Looking for the follow Triumph part
Message-ID: <abc1aef30710051300m60435216n828c29907b2c234c@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have an aluminum transmission fluid pan that will fit a BW35
automatic transmission?  This transmission fits on a '71 Stag.

My Stag is fitted with a steel pan, but later models switched to an aluminum
one. I'd like to change mine.



If you do or you know of anyone who may have, please contact me.



triumphstag at gmail.com or sujitroy at yahoo.com



Thanks Sujit



Cupertino, CA

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Fri Oct  5 15:14:32 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 17:14:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Looking for the follow Triumph part
References: <abc1aef30710051300m60435216n828c29907b2c234c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002801c80794$b9ce04e0$4c1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

> Does anyone have an aluminum transmission fluid pan that will fit a BW35
> automatic transmission?  This transmission fits on a '71 Stag.
>
> My Stag is fitted with a steel pan, but later models switched to an 
> aluminum
> one. I'd like to change mine.
>
>
>
> If you do or you know of anyone who may have, please contact me.
=====================================================================================================
Check with "Paul Ogelsby" at British Motor Cars in Kentucky 502-270-6351 or 
bmcltd at spis.net   "FT" 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 17:05:19 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 23:05:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] steering pins, TR2-3
Message-ID: <100520072305.12075.4706C32F0008DDDC00002F2B22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

I haven't called TRF to inquire, but would these be the silent bloc that Randall has mentioned a few times as having drilled into in order to install a zerk?  I'd be interested if I can grease it and it means reducing the steering effort.  
TRF is offering these, and I quote:
For TR2, TR3 owners, I am offering a second Weekend Feature.  I am 
featuring new steering pin kits made for us by Joe Alexander at A.R.E. 
The new steering pins eliminate the rubber from the bush and pin 
assembly.  This will extend steering pin life indefinitely, and it will 
probably reduce steering effort at low speeds.  List Price on steering 
pin kits will be $69.95.  This weekend, you can purchase a kit for just 
$44.95.  I will also take these to Triumphest.  If you attend, you can 
take a look before you purchase.  Again, you can find this Weekend 
Feature by using the link on our home page.


Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri Oct  5 18:09:28 2007
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 17:09:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 alternator coversion
Message-ID: <3476A8A7-B99F-4A19-83EF-2A78BFFE3294@cox.net>

I am beginning the process of converting to an alternator and  
installing a Dan Masters wiring system.  I started by trying to  
install the alternator.  I cannot get the old belt on the alternator  
pulley & I cannot get the old belt off, because the yellow radiator  
fan is too close to the radiator - I would guess there is no more  
than a 1/2" gap.

My guess is my only choice is to pull off the front end and  
radiator.  But that sounds like an extremely difficult thing to do  
anytime you have to change a belt!!!!

What can I do to avoid this in the future???

I have an electric fan, so maybe I should ditch yellow fan??

Is there someway to mount the fan so it is farther from the  
radiator?? I have a picture of the way it is mounted in the middle of  
the following page http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/radiator.html

Advice please!!!!

John



John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct  5 18:50:18 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 17:50:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 alternator coversion
In-Reply-To: <3476A8A7-B99F-4A19-83EF-2A78BFFE3294@cox.net>
References: <3476A8A7-B99F-4A19-83EF-2A78BFFE3294@cox.net>
Message-ID: <000301c807b2$de1c0310$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> My guess is my only choice is to pull off the front end and  
> radiator.  But that sounds like an extremely difficult thing to do  
> anytime you have to change a belt!!!!

FWIW, I changed the bottom radiator bolts to ones much longer than stock,
and put springs under the bolt heads.  My intention was to be sure no torque
(from the frame twisting during spirited driving) could be transmitted to
the radiator shell; but a side effect was that I can take the upper braces
loose and tilt the whole thing forward a bit.

Anyway, I guess my point is that tipping the radiator (even if you have to
undo the bolts first) is much easier than having to pull the front apron.
You might even be able to go far enough without removing the upper hose (but
draining the coolant and loosening the hose will let you go a bit farther).

> What can I do to avoid this in the future???

Several options come to mind :

1) I've heard that turning the fan back to front will give you a little more
room.
2) Convert to a narrow belt.
3) Permanently move the radiator forward another 1/4" or so. (Not sure if
this is practical)
4) A local club member had the fan extension cut & rewelded shorter.  By
doing the cutting on a lathe, they were able to keep the result running
true.

> I have an electric fan, so maybe I should ditch yellow fan??

That's the way I went, many years ago now (except my old fan wasn't yellow
<g>).  Worked well for me.  The temperature does rise a bit in desert heat,
but it never boils (as long as I remember to turn the fan on).

Randall

From mrv8q at aim.com  Fri Oct  5 18:54:45 2007
From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 20:54:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] steering pins, TR2-3
In-Reply-To: <100520072305.12075.4706C32F0008DDDC00002F2B22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <100520072305.12075.4706C32F0008DDDC00002F2B22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8C9D5CA9F1D4B68-F9C-6F1D@FWM-M11.sysops.aol.com>

Hello, Terry, not to speak for Randall, but I believe he was referring 
to the Brass Silentblocs
that BFE sells. I didn't know Joe Alexander was making these; I had the 
standard Silentblocs
installed in my car about 3 weeks ago! D'oh!

Best, Kevin Browne


TRF is offering these, and I quote:
For TR2, TR3 owners, I am offering a second Weekend Feature.  I am
featuring new steering pin kits made for us by Joe Alexander at A.R.E.
The new steering pins eliminate the rubber from the bush and pin
assembly.  This will extend steering pin life indefinitely, and it will
probably reduce steering effort at low speeds.  List Price on steering
pin kits will be $69.95.  This weekend, you can purchase a kit for just
$44.95.  I will also take these to Triumphest.  If you attend, you can
take a look before you purchase.  Again, you can find this Weekend
Feature by using the link on our home page.


Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
_______________________________________________
mrv8q at aim.com

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs




________________________________________________________________________
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industry-leading spam and email virus protection.

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Oct  5 19:01:10 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 21:01:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] steering pins, TR2-3
Message-ID: <ce3.1d5e91aa.34383856@aol.com>

I have just ordered these Delrins and the Silenblocs go.  Fortunately  my 
body is off the chassis.  I have taken this steering apart so may times  now I 
can knocok it off in about 15 minutes. I have rebuilt everything and am  not 
satisfied with the results.  I suspect that the aftermarket Silentblocs  are the 
source of my dissatisfaction.  Other 3A owners in my group accuse  me of being 
too picky.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct  5 19:46:34 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 18:46:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] steering pins, TR2-3
In-Reply-To: <100520072305.12075.4706C32F0008DDDC00002F2B22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <100520072305.12075.4706C32F0008DDDC00002F2B22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000b01c807ba$ba15c700$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I haven't called TRF to inquire, but would these be the 
> silent bloc that Randall has mentioned a few times as having 
> drilled into in order to install a zerk?

Nope, not the same ones.  I got mine from BFE, and they are SS running in
solid brass.  The ones from Joe are different, either Delrin or Nylatron
instead of brass.  Probably Delrin, but if he told me which one he chose,
I've forgotten it.  Joe's are significantly cheaper (and I'll be using them
on my new project).

Just to be clear, the ones mentioned by TRF are a brand new development,
just now being offered for the first time.  They were literally not
available when I did my last steering rebuild.

>  I'd be interested 
> if I can grease it and it means reducing the steering effort.  

Joe (I think it was) said that Delrin is not supposed to be greased ... but
I don't know why not.  But the replacements should reduce steering effort,
as Delrin is very slippery even without the grease.   With the original
Silentblocs, you have to supply the force to twist and distort that ring of
rubber when you turn the wheel.

Randall

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri Oct  5 20:44:13 2007
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 22:44:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Kudos to John Esposito
Message-ID: <4706F67D.2060003@blacksburg.net>

Friends,

I have some major league kudos for John Esposito (Quantum Mechanics). 
Seems that when I mated my gearbox to the A-type OD John rebuilt for me, 
I gummed up the pump.  I returned the OD to John and asked if he could 
squeeze it in on a rush, since I have about 2 week window to take the 
TR4 for state inspection and put it on the road.  John worked on the 
unit after hours, then drove it to the FedEx store the next morning. 
Now **that's** customer service!!

Yahoo!  I **really** appreciate his terrific customer service.  If you 
have any gearbox or OD work, John's your man.  Check him out at 
www.quantumechanics.com

NFI, but sure am one happy customer.

jim

-- 
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg  VA
64 TR4 in autox preparation
95% finished, 90% to go

From lee at automate-it.com  Fri Oct  5 22:04:49 2007
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 23:04:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Looking for Corey Sherman
Message-ID: <1252.98.200.58.82.1191643489.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

Trying to find (former?) Triumphs and 6pack list member Corey Sherman. The
email address I have is corey.sherman at rcn.com, but this is no longer active.
Corey are you still here?
 Anyone else know Corey or have a new email addr for him?

THANKS!!
 - Lee Daniels

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Fri Oct  5 22:52:55 2007
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 21:52:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] steering pins, TR2-3
References: <100520072305.12075.4706C32F0008DDDC00002F2B22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
	<000b01c807ba$ba15c700$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <038201c807d4$c3ff5190$210110ac@MIKESDELL>

BFE is currently out of the SS silent blocks and said that when he inquired 
(a couple of week ago) about getting some more that the price had doubled. 
Since the SS were fairly pricy to start with, when they doubled the price I 
decided I could do without. I just ordered some of the new version from TRF 
and they use Delrin instead of brass.
Mike Denman


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <terryrs at comcast.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] steering pins, TR2-3


>> I haven't called TRF to inquire, but would these be the
>> silent bloc that Randall has mentioned a few times as having
>> drilled into in order to install a zerk?
>
> Nope, not the same ones.  I got mine from BFE, and they are SS running in
> solid brass.  The ones from Joe are different, either Delrin or Nylatron
> instead of brass.  Probably Delrin, but if he told me which one he chose,
> I've forgotten it.  Joe's are significantly cheaper (and I'll be using 
> them
> on my new project).
>
> Just to be clear, the ones mentioned by TRF are a brand new development,
> just now being offered for the first time.  They were literally not
> available when I did my last steering rebuild.
>
>>  I'd be interested
>> if I can grease it and it means reducing the steering effort.
>
> Joe (I think it was) said that Delrin is not supposed to be greased ... 
> but
> I don't know why not.  But the replacements should reduce steering effort,
> as Delrin is very slippery even without the grease.   With the original
> Silentblocs, you have to supply the force to twist and distort that ring 
> of
> rubber when you turn the wheel.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
> mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Sat Oct  6 05:06:52 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 07:06:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] ABRR Update: Two bite the dust, one of them my TR6  - Part 1
Message-ID: <014701c80808$ffd726f0$5d011eac@bjdtr3a>

Because of length (I think) I am reposting this in two parts for the TR list
only.

Hi everyone,

While on my way to the kick-off dinner Friday night (after having driven
from Detroit to Janesville, Wisconsin in my 1976 TR6 for the start of the
run), I hear a nasty clunk from the back of the car on acceleration and
deceleration.  I just replaced the differential bushings (or bushes, or
whatever those poly donut-shaped things are properly called) last week, so
I'm thinking one or more of the nuts vibrated loose.  We're all in the
parking lot with a gigantic flashlight snooping around the bottom of the
car, which is parked so that one half of it is up on a curb, and Pat Barber
notices the rear axle crossmember's weld to the frame have all broken.  Yes,
all of them.  So the back end of my car is essentially "floating" until I
hit a bump of some sort, when it crashes back to the frame. That's number 19
in this illustration: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/tr6/images/130a.gif.

Sitting for three hours in Chicago traffic, 1st gear, clutch out, brake,
repeat, probably helped to further stress whatever cracks were in the weld
to begin with when I left Detroit.  So the car is parked, will be flatbedded
to Milwaukee, where it and I will board the Lake Express ferry to Muskegon
Michigan and I will likely drive the car along the interstate, albeit
carefully, back home come Monday morning.  If there's a bright side, it's
that I'll be now pulling navigator duties for Mike Bilyk in his Aston
Martin.  Call it a free upgrade.  Well, maybe not so free.

Continued...

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Sat Oct  6 05:07:28 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 07:07:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] ABRR Update: Two bite the dust, one of them my TR6 - part 2
Message-ID: <014801c80809$15991160$5d011eac@bjdtr3a>

... continues

The other "dust-biter" is Roger Garner's 1986 Jaguar XJ6 which blew the
water pump as he pulled into the Janesville Hampton Inn last night.  With a
few phone calls to the local Jag club, a pump is being located and a club
member who has repair shop is getting him on the road Saturday afternoon.
He'll head up to our overnight spot, Minocqua, WI, and catch up with us
tonight.

Pat Barber is emailing blog entries via his PDA to
http://barber-abrr2007.blogspot.com/.  Admittedly it's about he and I up
until today because it was the two of us who drove to Janesville together.
Today he'll be diversifying out!  

I'll keep ya posted.  PS. We're up to $22,600 in donations!  Thank you all.

Cheers,
Blake Discher, Event Organizer
America's British Reliability Run
www.abrr.org

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Oct  6 06:10:43 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 12:10:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] Kudos to John Esposito
Message-ID: <100620071210.20710.47077B42000F259A000050E622165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net> 

> Friends, 
> 
> I have some major league kudos for John Esposito (Quantum Mechanics). 
> Seems that when I mated my gearbox to the A-type OD John rebuilt for me, 
> I gummed up the pump. I returned the OD to John and asked if he could 
> squeeze it in on a rush, since I have about 2 week window to take the 
> TR4 for state inspection and put it on the road. John worked on the 
> unit after hours, then drove it to the FedEx store the next morning. 
> Now **that's** customer service!! 
> 
> Yahoo! I **really** appreciate his terrific customer service. If you 
> have any gearbox or OD work, John's your man. Check him out at 
> www.quantumechanics.com 
> 
> NFI, but sure am one happy customer. 

Yes, well, I hate to think of the mess I presented him a few years back with on my TR3A front calipers.  In trying to get the rusted bleed screws out, I buggered up not one, but two broken off Easy-Outs in one cavity.  They accepted the calipers and rebuilt them as if it were a matter of course.  Pretty happy customer here too.  NFI

Terry Smith

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Sat Oct  6 06:30:13 2007
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 07:30:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] steering pins TR2-3
Message-ID: <200710061230.l96CUMCd055353@ns3.geneseo.net>

A new kit is being produced by Joe Alexander using Delrin bushings. 
He hasn't responded to the list because he is off on a leaf tour in 
his TR3 with a group of friends. The kit is quite nice, eliminates 
the nasty problems with the current ones. I'm sure he'll respond in a 
day or two.

uncle jack 



------------------------------------------------
No Virus Found In This Message
Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Oct  6 06:40:58 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 12:40:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] steering pins, TR2-3
Message-ID: <100620071240.3415.4707825A00065AD700000D5722165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

> the replacements should reduce steering effort, 
> as Delrin is very slippery even without the grease. With the original 
> Silentblocs, you have to supply the force to twist and distort that ring of 
> rubber when you turn the wheel. 

Broad blanket thank you, then, to Joe Alexander.  I ordered a set of these this morning.  Must hasten to add, however, that real men do not require brakes (they slow you down), headlights (they only alert you to things you migh prefer not to know about), or steering (one should go through or over, never around).  It is only in the interests of scientific experimentation and the spirit of inventiveness--and not convenience or ease or good sense--that I will be installing these.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire  

From pryner at verizon.net  Sat Oct  6 06:52:57 2007
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter  Ryner)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 08:52:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] TRF Investment Program
In-Reply-To: <ca4.1a8133cd.3438cbc5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <NBEEJEGGEGNFFCODHMLKIEEMDHAA.pryner@verizon.net>

Bill,
I've been in the program for about a year and love it.  The return and
savings are real.  The only thing to remember is that the 33% savings is off
the original price, not the discount prices so sales are of no use to you.
You do still get to use the shipping specials.  I normally wait to order
when they offer a $5 or $10 shipping special to get the best value.  It is
an unsecured loan so if the company goes bust you may not get your
investment back.  On the flip side, Charles adds your name and investment
amount to his life insurance policy so you will recoup your investment if
something happens to him.  I'm not a part of TRF but am satisfied with the
program.
Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: british-cars-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:british-cars-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf
Of ARoman4047 at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 7:30 AM
To: bill_beecher at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net;
british-cars at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [British-cars] TRF Investment Program


In a message dated 07-10-06 00:50:43 EDT, bill_beecher at flash.net writes:

<< OK, I am looking through the first pages of my latest TRF catalogue and
see
 the article on their Customer Investment Program.  If I read this right I
can
 'loan' them $5,000 for a 5 year term at 10% annual AND receive a 33%
discount
 on the products that they sell.     This looks pretty good for poor boy
gettin
g ready to re-build a TR3 soon.  Is anyone on the list taking advantage of
this
 program?  Other than that  this is an un-secured loan, is there a catch
somewh
ere that I have missed?     Bill B  "Investing in my TR3 everyday" >>

Maybe I'm just cynical but this sounds just a little too
"Kenny Boy" Lay to me...Is TRF planning on going
belly up soon... ?-(

Tony in NJ
W.A.S.T.E.

From jerryvv at adelphia.net  Sat Oct  6 07:45:10 2007
From: jerryvv at adelphia.net (jerryvv at adelphia.net)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 6:45:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] steering pins TR2-3
Message-ID: <239491.1191678310310.JavaMail.root@web19>

Gee Jack, I didn't know corn turned pretty colors in the Fall.

JVV

---- "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4 at geneseo.net> wrote: 
> A new kit is being produced by Joe Alexander using Delrin bushings. 
> He hasn't responded to the list because he is off on a leaf tour in 
> his TR3 with a group of friends. The kit is quite nice, eliminates 
> the nasty problems with the current ones. I'm sure he'll respond in a 
> day or two.
> 
> uncle jack 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct  6 09:11:33 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 08:11:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] steering pins TR2-3
In-Reply-To: <239491.1191678310310.JavaMail.root@web19>
References: <239491.1191678310310.JavaMail.root@web19>
Message-ID: <004101c8082b$2e80d470$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Gee Jack, I didn't know corn turned pretty colors in the Fall.

I've lived in Iowa ... the really neat thing about fall is that they cut the
corn down and you suddenly find out there are trees !

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct  6 09:21:39 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 08:21:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] steering pins, TR2-3
In-Reply-To: <100620071240.3415.4707825A00065AD700000D5722165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <100620071240.3415.4707825A00065AD700000D5722165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004601c8082c$97ad2830$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

>  It is only in the interests of scientific 
> experimentation and the spirit of inventiveness--and not 
> convenience or ease or good sense--that I will be installing these.  

FWIW Terry, I believe it's also important to check at each stage of assembly
for free motion.  For example, Herman van den Akker reported finding a bunch
of vertical links that were bent enough to bind (causing hard steering) when
installed into new trunnions.  When everything is just right, you should be
able to fully install the front suspension (except for the shocks and
springs), and move it easily by hand through it's full range of motion.

Randall

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat Oct  6 09:46:39 2007
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 11:46:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] steering pins, TR2-3
In-Reply-To: <004601c8082c$97ad2830$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <100620071240.3415.4707825A00065AD700000D5722165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
	<004601c8082c$97ad2830$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770710060846y57702cf8s12dc6d545fca0a5b@mail.gmail.com>

>  For example, Herman van den Akker reported finding a bunch
> of vertical links that were bent enough to bind (causing hard steering)
> when
> installed into new trunnions.  When everything is just right, you should
> be
> able to fully install the front suspension (except for the shocks and
> springs), and move it easily by hand through it's full range of motion.



That was exactly the case during my front end rebuild on the TR4.  Before
the rebuild, apparently the front end was so worn it would still turn
fine. During reassembly, There no way to make it fit - I took it apart with
intention to ream the joints to make it fit when I saw the fit was much
different than the other side.

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Sat Oct  6 09:47:27 2007
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 10:47:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] steering pins TR2-3
In-Reply-To: <004101c8082b$2e80d470$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <239491.1191678310310.JavaMail.root@web19>
	<004101c8082b$2e80d470$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <200710061547.l96FlaMU092114@ns3.geneseo.net>

:)

you've got to drive back country roads, very slowly, in a TR with the 
top down, to discern the subtle shades of dry brown.......

At 10:11 AM 10/6/2007, Randall wrote:
> > Gee Jack, I didn't know corn turned pretty colors in the Fall.
>
>I've lived in Iowa ... the really neat thing about fall is that they cut the
>corn down and you suddenly find out there are trees !
>
>Randall
>_______________________________________________
>vinttr4 at geneseo.net
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>Triumphs mailing list
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs



------------------------------------------------
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Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Wed Oct  3 19:08:50 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 21:08:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Saturday: ABRR Kid's Charity Run - Will You Help?
Message-ID: <00c001c80623$21bee600$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a>

Hi everyone,

Come Saturday, 25 British cars will begin the fifth annual "America's
British Reliability Run."  This year there will be two groups participating
in two different locations.  One group will participate in the Wisconsin
run, driving 800 miles in two days through Wisconsin, Minnesota and
Michigan's Upper Peninsula.  Another group will drive the Ohio run, again
driving 800 miles in two days through Ohio, Virginia and Maryland.  In the
four years the run has taken place, it has raised more than $110,000 for
children's charities!  
 
To date, donations are behind last year, at just under $13,000.  I realize
the economy hasn't been so great lately, but this is when I ask you to
contribute to this year's partner children's charities.  The slow-down in
our economy has hit most charities hard too, limiting the good works they
are able to do.  The charity for the Wisconsin run is the Center for Blind &
Visually Impaired Children. The Center offers a coordinated program of
educational intervention and prescribed therapies to infants and toddlers
who are blind or visually impaired, including those with additional
disabilities.  You can learn more about this organization at their website:
http://www.cbvic.org/.  At the end of this run we'll all park our cars at
the Center for an "It's OK to Touch" car show for the visually impaired
kids!
 
The charity for the Ohio run is Adventures for Wishkids, whose mission is to
enrich the lives of children with life threatening illnesses and their
families by providing year round, fun-filled group activities and
destination events, fostering joy, laughter, normalcy and supportive
networking opportunities. Their adventures are unique opportunities to spend
quality family time in a fun-filled group activity or destination event
outside the hospital. Even when children are sick and in the hospital, they
have something to look forward to . the next great adventure! Again, you can
learn more at their website: http://www.afwkids.org/.
 
One hundred percent of your donation goes to the charity, teams pay their
own expenses out of pocket. In fact, your donation is made directly to the
charity of your choice. Please help as you can - every little bit counts,
and we welcome contributions large and small!  You can donate by visiting
the secure server site provided by our corporate sponsor, the Little British
Car Company.  Just follow this link:
https://securemg.ipl.co.uk/lbcarco/mibrr.html to donate safely and securely
online.  If you'd like, you can specify which car you're cheering for by
checking all the registered cars on the event web site: http://www.abrr.org.
Choose from MGs, Triumphs, Minis, Austins, an Astin Martin, or a Bentley!
(Hemmings Sports & Exotic Cars Magazine is fielding a Triumph Spitfire!)
But it's the total monies raised that is important, and not which team gets
the most pledges!  You will receive a receipt via US Post, and remember,
your contribution is tax deductible.   
 
Thank you in advance for your help.  I will let everyone know how we did
soon after the run.

Cheers,
Blake Discher, Event Organizer
America's British Reliability Run
www.abrr.org

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Sat Oct  6 05:03:08 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 07:03:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] ABRR Update: Two bite the dust, one of them my TR6
Message-ID: <014601c80808$7af07a40$5d011eac@bjdtr3a>

Hi everyone,

While on my way to the kick-off dinner Friday night (after having driven
from Detroit to Janesville, Wisconsin in my 1976 TR6 for the start of the
run), I hear a nasty clunk from the back of the car on acceleration and
deceleration.  I just replaced the differential bushings (or bushes, or
whatever those poly donut-shaped things are properly called) last week, so
I'm thinking one or more of the nuts vibrated loose.  We're all in the
parking lot with a gigantic flashlight snooping around the bottom of the
car, which is parked so that one half of it is up on a curb, and Pat Barber
notices the rear axle crossmember's weld to the frame have all broken.  Yes,
all of them.  So the back end of my car is essentially "floating" until I
hit a bump of some sort, when it crashes back to the frame. That's number 19
in this illustration: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/tr6/images/130a.gif.

Sitting for three hours in Chicago traffic, 1st gear, clutch out, brake,
repeat, probably helped to further stress whatever cracks were in the weld
to begin with when I left Detroit.  So the car is parked, will be flatbedded
to Milwaukee, where it and I will board the Lake Express ferry to Muskegon
Michigan and I will likely drive the car along the interstate, albeit
carefully, back home come Monday morning.  If there's a bright side, it's
that I'll be now pulling navigator duties for Mike Bilyk in his Aston
Martin.  Call it a free upgrade.  Well, maybe not so free.

The other "dust-biter" is Roger Garner's 1986 Jaguar XJ6 which blew the
water pump as he pulled into the Janesville Hampton Inn last night.  With a
few phone calls to the local Jag club, a pump is being located and a club
member who has repair shop is getting him on the road Saturday afternoon.
He'll head up to our overnight spot, Minocqua, WI, and catch up with us
tonight.

Pat Barber is emailing blog entries via his PDA to
http://barber-abrr2007.blogspot.com/.  Admittedly it's about he and I up
until today because it was the two of us who drove to Janesville together.
Today he'll be diversifying out!  

I'll keep ya posted.  PS. We're up to $22,600 in donations!  Thank you all.

Cheers,
Blake Discher, Event Organizer
America's British Reliability Run
www.abrr.org

From ebutschek at austin.rr.com  Sat Oct  6 11:22:59 2007
From: ebutschek at austin.rr.com (Eric Butschek)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 12:22:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] plug gap for platinum plugs
In-Reply-To: <004101c8082b$2e80d470$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <239491.1191678310310.JavaMail.root@web19>
	<004101c8082b$2e80d470$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <DE7772E0649841148BC94E9EB7068EE2@EricButschekPC>

 '78 Spitfire 1500 with original Lucas electronic ignition.

I bought a set of Platinum plugs, NGK BPR5EGP. The box says Don't
adjust the gap, as you might damage the little Platinum tip. The new
ones are gapped at .035  My Haynes manual says .025

Do I:

1. Run them at .035

2. carefully adjust to .025

3. take 'em back and get regular plugs?

Thanks.
Eric, Austin Tx.

From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Sat Oct  6 11:26:34 2007
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 12:26:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] way off topic - early ford mustangs
In-Reply-To: <002401c807d3$f5b31fb0$800101df@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <200710061726.l96HQkkn023564@host47.swh.bellsouth.net>

Oliver-


If you cannot convince your daughter in the error of her ways, I would call
Fred Thomas, who I believe has an early model Mustang. He is a wealth of
knowledge about all things automotive and could easily compare the relative
benefits and burdens of owning and maintaining a TR vs. early Mustang.

Where are you Fred?


Steve Thornton
Bowling Green, KY


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack at autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 11:47 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] way off topic - early ford mustangs

hi, all.  i apologize for the ot question.

my teenage daughter is longing for an early mustang.  if there is an early 
mustang afficionado on the list, would you please contact me offline.

thanks. 

Your messages not reaching the list?
Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html

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From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sat Oct  6 11:53:30 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 13:53:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] way off topic - early ford mustangs
References: <200710061726.l96HQkkn023564@host47.swh.bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <013801c80841$cef9e840$4c1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Hi Steve, nice to hear from you, I have a 1968 Mustang that I bought in 
1970, probably the  nicest car I have ever owned. You were missed at TRFSP 
"FT" 

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct  6 12:14:14 2007
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 11:14:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] VTR-SE Jekyll Island GA - bed available
Message-ID: <230294.82615.qm@web80404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have a guaranteed  reservation for 2 rooms - 2 beds each (non-smoking /
island side), in 18 Oct, out 21 Oct, at the Days Inn & Suites, Jekyll Island
Georgia, the convention hotel for the South East Vintage Triumph Register
Convention. 

My party (3 guys from ISOA -driving: TR6, TR4A, TR4) will only
need 3 of the 4 beds.  This makes a bed available for someone if need be.  A
4th person would also help us by sharing the room cost. The total cost of
these 2 rooms for the 3 nights of the convention is $506.16 (taxes incl),
making each bed cost $126.54 with 4 people.

If someone is interested in this
accomodation, please contact me.

I'm really looking forward to the trip from
Chicago to Jekyll Island in my TR4!

brgds, Jay Holekamp

'64 Triumph TR4
since '67
Wheaton, Illinois
Tel: 630 653 0610

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct  6 12:20:39 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 11:20:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] plug gap for platinum plugs
In-Reply-To: <DE7772E0649841148BC94E9EB7068EE2@EricButschekPC>
References: <239491.1191678310310.JavaMail.root@web19>
	<004101c8082b$2e80d470$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<DE7772E0649841148BC94E9EB7068EE2@EricButschekPC>
Message-ID: <004d01c80845$99038710$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

>  '78 Spitfire 1500 with original Lucas electronic ignition.
> 
> I bought a set of Platinum plugs, NGK BPR5EGP. The box says Don't
> adjust the gap, as you might damage the little Platinum tip. The new
> ones are gapped at .035  My Haynes manual says .025

IMO, carefully adjust them to .025.  With any plug (not just platinums) you
should never pry against the center electrode when adjusting the gap.
Instead, get one of the tools to bend the side electrode without touching
the center one.

FWIW, I use Bosch Platinum WR7BP, which have the center electrode surrounded
by ceramic and thus less prone to damage.

Randall

From dkspence at telus.net  Sat Oct  6 18:11:47 2007
From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 18:11:47 -0600
Subject: [TR] What happened here???
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1191693601.6922.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1191693601.6922.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6097DDAC-EFE7-4D81-A16E-C70B09B399EA@telus.net>

Can anyone explain why a response I posted on Sept 25 only shows up  
today, Oct 6th, way past having a context??



On Oct 6, 2007, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: dkspence at telus.net
> Date: September 25, 2007 12:27:05 AM MDT (CA)
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc: efrenken at lctax.de
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4a ignition advance: Marcel Chichak's database
>
>
> On Sep 24, 2007, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4a ignition advance
> Eric Frenken made the following comment
>> Tony and all,

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct  6 18:35:36 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 17:35:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] What happened here???
In-Reply-To: <6097DDAC-EFE7-4D81-A16E-C70B09B399EA@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1191693601.6922.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6097DDAC-EFE7-4D81-A16E-C70B09B399EA@telus.net>
Message-ID: <008f01c80879$fa594ac0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Can anyone explain why a response I posted on Sept 25 only shows up  
> today, Oct 6th, way past having a context??

The usual explanation for that is that the list server had some sort of
problem, and held the message awaiting moderator intervention.  In this
particular case, I would guess that the message exceeded the length limit.

I am glad MJB decided to let it go through, though.  And that you posted it.
Thanks, Don.  Thanks, Mark.

Randall

From banjonut at verizon.net  Sat Oct  6 18:53:03 2007
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 17:53:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Front Suspension Rebuild question
Message-ID: <001d01c8087c$6b053750$6500a8c0@HAMPC>

I need some advice.  I started rebuilding my TR3A right front suspension, and
I'm having trouble with the disassembly.  I'm hung-up removing the 6
castellated nuts, located under the spring pan (the ones that attach the pan
to the lower wishbone).  I managed to loosen the two outside and two middle
nuts (although the middle one that holds the big rubber bumper spins around).
But the big question is this: There isn't enough room under there to get a
wrench on the two inside nuts (the ones closest to the chassis).  I'm using
the Moss spring compressor, and I do have pressure when I tighten it, but
maybe I'm supposed to really crank it and raise the wishbone up higher so I
can get a wrench under there?  What's the trick?  How tight does that spring
compressor have to be?  The instruction sheet doesn't say anything about
having to crank it way up.

Please copy replies to my home email since I get the digest...thanks.


Thanks,

Steve Ball
Lompoc Ca
TS68164L

email:  banjonut at verizon.net

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat Oct  6 20:08:02 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 22:08:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Front Suspension Rebuild question
References: <001d01c8087c$6b053750$6500a8c0@HAMPC>
Message-ID: <000e01c80886$e42e7970$5918e247@DCS78M81>

Those inside bolts have to be loosened first. They are really hard to get at 
and I ended up buying another box end offset wrench to get a better grip. 
Just be patient...but take them off first. Otherwise, it's straight forward.
Tom
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Ball" <banjonut at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 8:53 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3A Front Suspension Rebuild question


>I need some advice.  I started rebuilding my TR3A right front suspension, 
>and
> I'm having trouble with the disassembly.  I'm hung-up removing the 6
> castellated nuts, located under the spring pan (the ones that attach the 
> pan
> to the lower wishbone).  I managed to loosen the two outside and two 
> middle
> nuts (although the middle one that holds the big rubber bumper spins 
> around).
> But the big question is this: There isn't enough room under there to get a
> wrench on the two inside nuts (the ones closest to the chassis).  I'm 
> using
> the Moss spring compressor, and I do have pressure when I tighten it, but
> maybe I'm supposed to really crank it and raise the wishbone up higher so 
> I
> can get a wrench under there?  What's the trick?  How tight does that 
> spring
> compressor have to be?  The instruction sheet doesn't say anything about
> having to crank it way up.
>
> Please copy replies to my home email since I get the digest...thanks.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Ball
> Lompoc Ca
> TS68164L

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct  6 21:45:33 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 20:45:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Front Suspension Rebuild question
In-Reply-To: <001d01c8087c$6b053750$6500a8c0@HAMPC>
References: <001d01c8087c$6b053750$6500a8c0@HAMPC>
Message-ID: <009901c80894$8393c260$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I'm using
> the Moss spring compressor, and I do have pressure when I 
> tighten it, but
> maybe I'm supposed to really crank it and raise the wishbone 
> up higher so I
> can get a wrench under there?  What's the trick?  How tight 
> does that spring
> compressor have to be? 

Yup, that's the idea.  I had to tighten the compressor enough to pull the
arms roughly level to have enough clearance to first turn the nuts and then
remove them from the studs.  If you look at the factory/Bentley service
manual, I think there is a photo in there showing the spring compressed and
the arms up pretty high.

Randall

From dorpaul at negia.net  Sun Oct  7 07:16:58 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 09:16:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3: firewall (forgive me)
Message-ID: <001101c808e4$5908be10$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

On my '60 TR3 (TS71318L)
What are the 4 nuts & bolts thru the firewall for that located above the
passenger's right foot?
The distance apart these captive nuts are maybe like the 4 corners of a post
card?  (do i need to say 'bulkhead'?)

Thanks, Paul

From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu  Sun Oct  7 07:45:19 2007
From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 09:45:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A CAM/VALVE Timing
Message-ID: <OF4084A6DB.A3B82C7E-ON8525736D.00499AF1-8525736D.004B8F5E@notes.duke.edu>

Hello All, John is the former owner  and frequent driver of my TR4A. I
purchased the car from him in 1979.
 Have tried to get him to join the
list., to no avail.  I am on the digest and will forward responses to him or
you can
contact him directly.
Has anyone knowledge of changing the
cam/valve timing from factory settings?
We are working on a TR4 which
has recently had it's engine rebuilt.  We used a
new "D" grind cam and
slight big bore kit.  The compression is reading
right on 205 PSI on all
cylinders.  We used Total Seal Piston Rings, so that also
adds to the extra
high compression.
Wondering if anyone has direct experience with
retarding the cam timing 
to change the performance characteristics, and
hopefully reduce the effective compression
to some level where the spark
knock and dieseling will subside?
Can anyone refer us to someone who
does have this knowledge? 
Sincerely,  Arnold S Gilmour
Thanks
for any info.
John Lestina
jdlestina at mindspring.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Oct  7 07:49:55 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 07:49:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3: firewall (forgive me)
In-Reply-To: <001101c808e4$5908be10$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20071007135010.A76121879E3@autox.team.net>

Assuming that your car in LHD.  Are you seeing the bolts for the blanking
plate for the master/clutch cylinder unit, if the car was to have been RHD
they would be over there? 

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration)
"A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!"

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul
Dorsey
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 7:17 AM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] TR3: firewall (forgive me)

On my '60 TR3 (TS71318L)
What are the 4 nuts & bolts thru the firewall for that located above the
passenger's right foot?
The distance apart these captive nuts are maybe like the 4 corners of a post
card?  (do i need to say 'bulkhead'?)

Thanks, Paul
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
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10:18 AM
 

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10:18 AM

From ray at raysmg.com  Sun Oct  7 08:17:45 2007
From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com)
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2007 07:17:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Front Suspension Rebuild question
Message-ID: <20071007071745.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.102b09cc86.wbe@email.secureserver.net>

   I  did a front end rebuild on my TR3 this past winter and went through
   the  same  exercise. As Randall mentioned, the spring pan will need to
   be about horizontal to get at those back nuts. I used a bottle jack to
   help  raise the outside of the arm and compress the spring. Be sure to
   use  the  threaded  rod through the spring after removing the shock to
   keep that spring captive as you let off pressure.

   Ray
   Ray McCaleb
   ray at raysmg.com
   http://www.raysmg.com

     -------- Original Message --------
     From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
     Date: Sat, October 06, 2007 11:45 pm
     To: "'Steve Ball'" <banjonut at verizon.net>,
     <triumphs at autox.team.net>
     > I'm using
     > the Moss spring compressor, and I do have pressure when I
     > tighten it, but
     > maybe I'm supposed to really crank it and raise the wishbone
     > up higher so I
     > can get a wrench under there? What's the trick? How tight
     > does that spring
     > compressor have to be?
     Yup,  that's  the  idea.  I had to tighten the compressor enough to
     pull the
     arms  roughly level to have enough clearance to first turn the nuts
     and then
     remove  them  from  the  studs.  If you look at the factory/Bentley
     service
     manual,  I  think  there  is  a  photo  in there showing the spring
     compressed and
     the arms up pretty high.
     Randall
     _______________________________________________
     ray at raysmg.com
     This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
     http://www.vtr.org
     Triumphs mailing list
     Triumphs at autox.team.net
     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From dorpaul at negia.net  Sun Oct  7 08:31:36 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 10:31:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 mystery bolts in firewall (forgive me)
References: <001101c808e4$5908be10$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<4708E488.30200@newellboys.com>
Message-ID: <002301c808ee$c6156a30$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Steven and Bill,
Thanks!
Good stab, but there about 8" below the clutch and brake m/c.
And while nothing exisits on the firewall on the driver's side (at this 
location).  Mine were put on at the factory for my LHD TR3.

These are located above the passenger's right foot (in my LHD); which means 
that the area (where the captive nuts)are exposed is under the fender of my 
right front tire.
Paul
>
Steven wrote:
>Assuming that your car in LHD.  Are you seeing the bolts for the >blanking
plate for the master/clutch cylinder unit, if the car was to have been RHD
they would be over there?

Paul Dorsey wrote:
>On my '60 TR3 (TS71318L)
>What are the 4 nuts & bolts thru the firewall for that located above the
>passenger's right foot?
>The distance apart these captive nuts are maybe like the 4 corners of a 
>post
>card? 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Oct  7 09:15:59 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 15:15:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] San Benito is when?
Message-ID: <BAY110-W33A302A5EC60D13B594AFFE5AB0@phx.gbl>

There is an all British car day in San Benito soon.  Does anyone know when?

Best regards,
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by
today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt
agline

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Oct  7 09:29:06 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 08:29:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3: firewall (forgive me)
In-Reply-To: <001101c808e4$5908be10$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20071007152906.FTYO25784.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> On my '60 TR3 (TS71318L)
> What are the 4 nuts & bolts thru the firewall for that 
> located above the passenger's right foot?
> The distance apart these captive nuts are maybe like the 4 
> corners of a post card?  

Those bolts are a mystery; AFAIK no one has ever found anything that was
bolted there.  One legend says they were for mounting the chassis of a
remote-control full-size tube radio, but (again AFAIK) no one has come up
with an example of the radio.  But since there is also a cutout in the kick
panel for a speaker that was apparently never used either, it seems at least
plausible that the bolts were for a radio.

Randall

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Sun Oct  7 10:14:17 2007
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 12:14:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Luc Clutches and Hylomar
Message-ID: <BAY117-DAV10560437B6C6905DE044609FAB0@phx.gbl>

Hi Everyone,

            I'm contemplating putting a Luc clutch in my car this winter.
I'm doing this specifically to reduce the pressure needed to engage the
clutch.  My daughter has a little difficulty with the Borg and Beck I
currently have installed.  I also spend a lot of time driving in traffic
when I have to drive to work in Boston so I wouldn't mind a softer petal
either. If you have a Luc clutch installed could I ask for your experience?

BTW has anybody found a source for real Hylomar?

 

 
Bob Rochlin

 
'72 TR 6

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Oct  7 10:54:32 2007
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2007 12:54:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Luc Clutches and Hylomar
In-Reply-To: <BAY117-DAV10560437B6C6905DE044609FAB0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY117-DAV10560437B6C6905DE044609FAB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <47090F48.2030801@blacksburg.net>

Bob Rochlin wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
[...]
> BTW has anybody found a source for real Hylomar?

Bob, I have a few 1 oz. tubes of HPF left from my purchase last year. 
ISTR I paid $6.50 / tube.  Let me know if you want some.

Jim


-- 
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg  VA
64 TR4 in autox preparation
95% finished, 90% to go

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sun Oct  7 11:27:20 2007
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 10:27:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] San Benito is when?
References: <BAY110-W33A302A5EC60D13B594AFFE5AB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003901c80907$5f0b5b60$8701a8c0@Dell>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 8:15 AM
Subject: [TR] San Benito is when?


> There is an all British car day in San Benito soon.  Does anyone know 
> when?
>
> Best regards,
> Tom

Tom, I don't know about any meets in San Benito, but there is the Autumn 
Classic in San Juan Batista on October 20-21. Tour on Sat, show on Sunday. 
It's run by Bill Meade 831-722-7253.

Bob

> _______________________________________________________________ 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Oct  7 14:18:05 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 16:18:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] EBC Kevlar or Semi-Metallic
Message-ID: <000901c8091f$30f1ac80$210110ac@bobspc>

For those of us who don't drive our cars particularly hard or fast, which
pad from TRF would you put on: EBC Kevlar or Semi-Metallic (Hawk?)?? Which
one gives off the least amount of dust & noise/squeal and stops best in
normal driving?  TRF "promotes" the EBC Kevlar as being for fast road,
auto-cross and mild race yet it seems that a lot of you use them for
everyday driving. 

Also.....it appears that there aren't the options for rear brake shoes like
there are for front discs. Why is that?
 
Any experience would be appreciated as I plan on putting in my brake parts
order tonight

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.3/1054 - Release Date: 10/6/2007
7:12 PM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Oct  7 14:51:36 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 13:51:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] EBC Kevlar or Semi-Metallic
In-Reply-To: <000901c8091f$30f1ac80$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000901c8091f$30f1ac80$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <000001c80923$da3aefa0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> For those of us who don't drive our cars particularly hard or 
> fast, which
> pad from TRF would you put on: EBC Kevlar or Semi-Metallic 
> (Hawk?)??

I must be missing something, Bob.  If you don't drive particularly hard, why
do you want to modify the brakes ?

It ain't broke, why fix it ?

> Also.....it appears that there aren't the options for rear 
> brake shoes like
> there are for front discs. Why is that?

The basic concept is that the rear brakes do relatively little of the
braking, so are much less likely to overheat.

However, if you want them, TSi can supply 'Kevlar' lined rear shoes.  (He
may need your old shoes first, not sure about that.)

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Oct  7 15:12:11 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 14:12:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Luc Clutches and Hylomar
In-Reply-To: <BAY117-DAV10560437B6C6905DE044609FAB0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY117-DAV10560437B6C6905DE044609FAB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000701c80926$b9e79bb0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> BTW has anybody found a source for real Hylomar?

I just received two tubes of "real" (not HPF) Hylomar from LDpart :
http://www.ldpart.co.uk/shop/shop.php?c=viewproduct&pid=302

I bought other Stag parts as well, but if you just bought a few tubes of
Hylomar, I think it could be shipped as a "small packet" Royal Mail, which
is only around $7 or $8.  Placed the order last Sunday and got it yesterday.
(The TRF order I made at the same time hasn't shown up yet.)

LDPart will also take PayPal, which can be handy sometimes.

Randall

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sun Oct  7 16:37:47 2007
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 23:37:47 +0100
Subject: [TR] Luc Clutches and Hylomar
References: <BAY117-DAV10560437B6C6905DE044609FAB0@phx.gbl>
	<000701c80926$b9e79bb0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <00c001c80936$86e99c80$d7d96b51@Platinum>

Shipping maybe a little slower this week. Royal Mail Postal workers are on 
strike again.

Adrian
TR4A CT64306 O
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Luc Clutches and Hylomar


>> BTW has anybody found a source for real Hylomar?
>
> I just received two tubes of "real" (not HPF) Hylomar from LDpart :
> http://www.ldpart.co.uk/shop/shop.php?c=viewproduct&pid=302
>
> I bought other Stag parts as well, but if you just bought a few tubes of
> Hylomar, I think it could be shipped as a "small packet" Royal Mail, which
> is only around $7 or $8.  Placed the order last Sunday and got it 
> yesterday.
> (The TRF order I made at the same time hasn't shown up yet.)
>
> LDPart will also take PayPal, which can be handy sometimes.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
> dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.3/1054 - Release Date: 
> 06/10/2007 19:12

From peterara at msn.com  Sun Oct  7 17:25:28 2007
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 16:25:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hylomar
Message-ID: <BAY114-DAV200DC6747ACD9F0C5C020AC1AB0@phx.gbl>

Since you asked....

Moss carries genuine Hylomar, 221-556.  The illustration on the web site is
wrong - it is no longer available in a tube from Permatex.  It is supplied by
a company that gets genuine Universal Blue Hylomar and packages it in their
own tubes under their own name.


Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sun Oct  7 19:24:52 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 18:24:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] EBC Kevlar or Semi-Metallic
In-Reply-To: <000901c8091f$30f1ac80$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000901c8091f$30f1ac80$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <2578ACAF2EEE44958CD56B2592901DAE@GeoPC>

I realize you were asking about TRF & TR6 but FWIW Moss sells a 
semi-metallic pad (for TR4s) that is 'guaranteed not to dust, squeal or 
fade'.  Some hyperbole there but they do dust much less than some other pads 
I've had which, given Standards questionable choice of Spa White for a wheel 
color, was a major consideration.

Geo


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: "'Aaron Cropley'" <Acekraut11 at aol.com>; "'Al Gary'" <AEGDesign at aol.com>; 
"'sidedraft'" <rick at sidedrafttbi.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 1:18 PM
Subject: [TR] EBC Kevlar or Semi-Metallic


> For those of us who don't drive our cars particularly hard or fast, which
> pad from TRF would you put on: EBC Kevlar or Semi-Metallic (Hawk?)?? 

From dorpaul at negia.net  Sun Oct  7 21:47:18 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 23:47:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] beading tabs between the panels
Message-ID: <006401c8095d$ee187d50$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Hi,
I have refrained from allowing anything in-between i.e. the outer fender and
inner fender for fear that doing so might trap moisture inside.

However, it seems the maufactorer was not too concerned between panels since
the fenders, all, have beading tabs in-between the fender and the rest of the
body.  Don't these act like spacers and allow moisture between the panels.
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey

From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Oct  7 22:25:41 2007
From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 05:25:41 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] TR4A missing, solved for now
In-Reply-To: <568C057162514B17B9402A9EEDD095D6@MichaelPC>
Message-ID: <202462.42010.qm@web27415.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi Listers,
  Thanks for the advice.
  A friend suggested swapping the jet assemblies between carbs. I did this and the problem moved to the back of the engine. I then put them back and the problem moved back to the front. I then replaced the front jet with an old one I have and voila!
  On close inspection of the removed jet it can be seen to be slightly worn on 1 side of the hole (slightly out of round). I guess this means that the needle will also be damaged.
  Does anyone have the email of Joe Cuerto as I may need some more.
  Thanks again for all the help. I will work on the checklist.
  Regards,
  Chris

Michael Godley <mgodley at tiac.net> wrote:
  I had a similar problem with a rebuild kit for the Stromberg 175-CDs on my
65 TR4A. A jet was hanging up on an internal spring that was part of the
lower jet assembly. I installed the old jets and everything was OK....but
it took months to find it , and was just luck that I finally stumbled upon
the solution.....never thought that the new parts would be so out of spec.

So if the car will fire on all cylinders at slightly higher rpm's on one
carb you might consider a complete disassemble of the other carb


++++++++++++++++
You may have a carb problem. I had a really strange one that took a 
>year to diagnose, with HS6 SU carbs. Mine got so bad that it 
>wouldn't pull itself around the block, My symptoms were different, 
>but at least it is something for you to look at.
>
>What kind of carbs are on your car?

----- *****************
_______________________________________________
chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


       
---------------------------------
 For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Mon Oct  8 06:14:03 2007
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 08:14:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A Valve Timing
Message-ID: <be8.1fc885b7.343b790b@aol.com>

Arnold,
I had a similar experience with my TR4A.   Too much milled off the head, it 
seemed.   Compression readings were similar to yours, over 200 psi.   Lotsa 
pinging.   Backed off the ignition timing, but then performance suffered.   
Finally, I added a second head gasket, lowering the pressure to around 170 psi.   
Worked for years but I ultimately replaced the head and used one gasket again.  
 Runs real well.   My opinion is that changing the cam/crank timing will not 
produce the results you want.   Good luck!
George Haynes


**************************************
 See what's new at 
http://www.aol.com

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Mon Oct  8 07:09:29 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 06:09:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] beading tabs between the panels
In-Reply-To: <006401c8095d$ee187d50$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <006401c8095d$ee187d50$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <B0B19122263B4CA6852BA1BF01FBCC61@GeoPC>

Correct, they 'were not too concerned' that we might encounter rust when 
working on these cars 50 years later.

This of course was true of most auto mfgs in the 50s, 60s  & well beyond.

I don't think the small spaces crated by the beading tabs are a problem. 
The wings pretty much crush together so the tabs are not effective spacers. 
In any case most of our cars are not going to be driven in the worst of road 
conditions (salt & mud) and in any case will tend to be kept cleaner that 
most cars.

Geo


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Dorsey" <dorpaul at negia.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 8:47 PM
Subject: [TR] beading tabs between the panels


> ...However, it seems the maufactorer was not too concerned... 

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Oct  8 07:26:43 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 09:26:43 EDT
Subject: [TR] beading tabs between the panels
Message-ID: <d3f.15173a3b.343b8a13@aol.com>

In fact, the E Type actually has spacers which go between the wing and the  
body which al;;ow ui to install the tabs easily after the bolts are pretty well 
 tightened.
Mike Moore 
59 TR3A
63 E Type



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Mon Oct  8 09:35:11 2007
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2007 10:35:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Valve Timing
In-Reply-To: <be8.1fc885b7.343b790b@aol.com>
References: <be8.1fc885b7.343b790b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200710081535.l98FZI2R006269@ns3.geneseo.net>

12:1 in our engines requires higher octane gas than is available at 
the pump. Sorry you are having to go through all this.

At 07:14 AM 10/8/2007, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com wrote:
>Arnold,
>I had a similar experience with my TR4A.   Too much milled off the head, it
>seemed.  .....................snip

uncle jack 



------------------------------------------------
No Virus Found In This Message
Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net

From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu  Mon Oct  8 10:00:50 2007
From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet)
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2007 09:00:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Door Checkstraps
Message-ID: <470A5432.4010701@mrl.ucsb.edu>

Hi, Folks,

I'm replacing the check straps on  my TR4, something I've been meaning 
to do, literally, for years.

Now that I've got all the panels off and I'm in there, I see I have a 
two-fold problem. The checkstrap assembly provided by Moss goes into the 
kick panel area just in front of the door without issues. The problem 
I've encountered is the 'anchor' portion of the check strap on the door 
itself. It is distorted and almost torn free from the door.

The PO who was the original owner must have been pretty heavy handed and 
threw the door open pretty hard.

Is there a repair part for this? The anchor is spot welded to the door 
frame, so it's not something you can unbolt and replace.

Any suggestions from the folks who have BTDT?

Thanks!

-jeffrey

-- 
Jeffrey Barteet
Materials Research Laboratory
University of California
Santa Barbara, 93106

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  8 10:02:14 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 09:02:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Valve Timing
In-Reply-To: <200710081535.l98FZI2R006269@ns3.geneseo.net>
Message-ID: <20071008160215.XBJU14677.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> 12:1 in our engines requires higher octane gas than is 
> available at the pump. Sorry you are having to go through all this.

FWIW, I had good luck with octane improvers containing MMT when I was
running a high compression head.  Seemed like there was some sort of
residual effect, the tendency to knock seemed to continue to go down over
several tanks of gas and I was ultimately able to reduce the dosage
somewhat.

Watch out for plug fouling, though.  MMT leaves a fluffy looking pink
deposit.

YMMV and all that.
Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Oct  8 11:13:24 2007
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 13:13:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Door Checkstraps
In-Reply-To: <470A5432.4010701@mrl.ucsb.edu>
References: <470A5432.4010701@mrl.ucsb.edu>
Message-ID: <200710081313.24346.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 08 October 2007 12:00 pm, Jeffrey Barteet wrote:
> Hi, Folks,
>
> I'm replacing the check straps on  my TR4, something I've been meaning
> to do, literally, for years.
>
> Now that I've got all the panels off and I'm in there, I see I have a
> two-fold problem. The checkstrap assembly provided by Moss goes into the
> kick panel area just in front of the door without issues. The problem
> I've encountered is the 'anchor' portion of the check strap on the door
> itself. It is distorted and almost torn free from the door.
>
> The PO who was the original owner must have been pretty heavy handed and
> threw the door open pretty hard.
>
> Is there a repair part for this? The anchor is spot welded to the door
> frame, so it's not something you can unbolt and replace.
>
> Any suggestions from the folks who have BTDT?
>
> Thanks!
>
> -jeffrey


Jeff,

I had the same problem on my TR4 project. I chose to use a set of later TR4 or 
4A doors with the stronger attachment point. The doors were dent free also so 
that made the decision easier. They came with the project!

I fabricated a set of check straps from heavy sheet metal that had the TR4 end 
facing the door hinge and a twist and attached with the 1/4 bolt at the door.

I lined the strap with a plastic gasket material from Lowes and they work 
fine. This plastic gasket provides a bearing effect.

I never open the door too hard so not as to stretch the assembly.

The check strap attachment points on my TR4 doors were all stretched, torn and 
distorted.

If you are in a restoration, you might want to source a set of later 4/4A 
doors with the TR3 like attachment at the door. It seems like a stronger 
assembly.

I am guessing that the older 4 attachment points would have to be welded in 
order to repair.

Bob

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Mon Oct  8 23:28:18 2007
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2007 01:28:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] EBC Kevlar or Semi-Metallic
In-Reply-To: <000901c8091f$30f1ac80$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000901c8091f$30f1ac80$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <470B1172.8080703@bright.net>

Bob Danielson wrote:
> For those of us who don't drive our cars particularly hard or fast, which
> pad from TRF would you put on: EBC Kevlar or Semi-Metallic (Hawk?)?? Which
> one gives off the least amount of dust & noise/squeal and stops best in
> normal driving?  TRF "promotes" the EBC Kevlar as being for fast road,
> auto-cross and mild race yet it seems that a lot of you use them for
> everyday driving. 
>
> Also.....it appears that there aren't the options for rear brake shoes like
> there are for front discs. Why is that?
>  
> Any experience would be appreciated as I plan on putting in my brake parts
> order tonight
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG. 
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.3/1054 - Release Date: 10/6/2007
> 7:12 PM
>
> Your messages not reaching the list?
> Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html
>
> ===  Help keep Team.Net on the air
> ===     http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> ===  unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net  or try
> ===  http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
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> ===  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
> ===  http://www.team.net/the-local
> ===  Edit your replies!
>
>
>   
Bob, we supply Kevlar pads and shoes.  Better than green stuff.  No 
dust, good cold stop (no warm up needed), rotor and drum friendly and 
$50 per axle set. Commercially yours, Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From dorpaul at negia.net  Mon Oct  8 11:47:42 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 13:47:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] 2 TR3 front fender questions
Message-ID: <009201c809d3$54c73530$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I ask another 'what's this for question':

I am installing all four fenders/wings and am clueless.  On each front fender,
and 'cut in edgeways' are 6 ovals or slots. They are spaced 4-5" apart.
These slots would directly above and forward of the front tires and only
visable when the bonnet is raised.  They are only proably 1/4" below the car's
hood.  What are these slots for?

Also, I (think) I know beading is normally attached by squeezing the tab
between the panels and doing a 1/2 twist (with the tab bottom).
But, how is the beading tabs attached to the fender (in that major portion of
the fender exposed where the hood) is?  Obviously, this part of the beading
will be seen when the hood is raised?

Both of these questions concern the same panel( front fender) same stretch
Thanks,
Paul 60 TR3.

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct  8 12:02:27 2007
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 11:02:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 door check strap repair
Message-ID: <274246.54987.qm@web80410.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The problem I've encountered is the 'anchor' portion of the check strap on the
door 
itself. It is distorted and almost torn free from the door.

 
Greetings
Jeffrey,
 
This is a fairly common problem caused by wear - this area on my
TR4 driver's side door was repaired last winter, as well as the associated
often-seen vertical crease caused by over-opening the door when the check
strap becomes completely nonfunctional (seperated). Here's what was done:
Remove door from the car and disassemble the interior handles and panel.  Now
you can see the inside of the check strap lugs (on the inside leading edge of
the door)  You'll see a rib with 2 tabs which are spot-welded to the inside of
the leading edge of the door.  The 2 lugs that extend beyond the leading edge
of the door and receive the pin and check strap are extensions of the rib.  We
tried to drill out the spot-welds with no success. We ended up cutting 2 slots
in the leading edge of the door and fitting a new strip of steel, in a u shape
around the rib and extending out thorough the 2 slots. The ends of the new
piece were shaped into lugs w/ holes to take the pin and check strap.  The
area was MIG welded up, ground / filed, cleaned up, primed and painted. The
door skin crimp was flattened, skimmed, flatted, primed and painted to remove
the vertical crease. I think the new door check strap lugs will last at least
another 40 years.
 
This procedure should be relevant to the same area on
TR4A, TR250, TR5, TR6, at least.  Let me know if this is unclear - likely I
fear - and I'll try to clarify.

brgds, Jay

'64 Triumph TR4 since '67

From Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com  Mon Oct  8 12:14:25 2007
From: Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com (Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 12:14:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Door Checkstraps
Message-ID: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF4103E9E066@COAST.amr.ch2m.com>

On Monday 08 October 2007 12:00 pm, Jeffrey Barteet wrote:
> Hi, Folks,
>
> I'm replacing the check straps on  my TR4, something I've been meaning
> to do, literally, for years.
>
> Now that I've got all the panels off and I'm in there, I see I have a
> two-fold problem. The checkstrap assembly provided by Moss goes into
the
> kick panel area just in front of the door without issues. The problem
> I've encountered is the 'anchor' portion of the check strap on the
door
> itself. It is distorted and almost torn free from the door.
>
> The PO who was the original owner must have been pretty heavy handed
and
> threw the door open pretty hard.
>
> Is there a repair part for this? The anchor is spot welded to the door
> frame, so it's not something you can unbolt and replace.
>
> Any suggestions from the folks who have BTDT?
>
> Thanks!
>
> -jeffrey

I've got a similar situation developing on the passenger door on my TR4.
The attachment ears pulled out on the other door before I got the car,
and the DPO installed a small threaded eye bolt that seems to be holding
up in the 16 years I've had the car.  I have been unable to source a
similarly sized eye bolt or forked end bolt for when the bracket finally
lets go.  Any suggestions that don't involve replacing the door or even
removing it to weld in a new bracket?

Dean Mericas
1965 TR4

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Mon Oct  8 12:20:02 2007
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2007 14:20:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Door Checkstraps
In-Reply-To: <470A5432.4010701@mrl.ucsb.edu>
References: <470A5432.4010701@mrl.ucsb.edu>
Message-ID: <470A74D2.4090700@blacksburg.net>

Jeffrey Barteet wrote:
> Hi, Folks,
> 
> I'm replacing the check straps on  my TR4, something I've been meaning 
> to do, literally, for years.
> 
> Now that I've got all the panels off and I'm in there, I see I have a 
> two-fold problem. The checkstrap assembly provided by Moss goes into the 
> kick panel area just in front of the door without issues. The problem 
> I've encountered is the 'anchor' portion of the check strap on the door 
> itself. It is distorted and almost torn free from the door.
Jeffrey,

My 63's doors were in the same condition, so I fabricated a set of 
"anchors" from sheet metal (sorry, don't remember the gauge, but it was 
just a smidge (metric dimension) thinner than the original).  Now that 
I'm actually installing the doors, I wish I'd modeled the "anchors" 
after the later -4s and -4As.  The early -4s had that dumb metal on 
metal stop design, while the later cars had a rubber snubber; the design 
change necessitated a change in the anchor design as well.  I can send 
you pix of what I fabricated if you're interested.

Anyway, you can fabricate your own anchors, then tack weld in place.  Or 
you can carefully cut them out of the door, then screw a larger "patch" 
from the inside.  Lots of options.

Jim
> 
> The PO who was the original owner must have been pretty heavy handed and 
> threw the door open pretty hard.
> 
> Is there a repair part for this? The anchor is spot welded to the door 
> frame, so it's not something you can unbolt and replace.
> 
> Any suggestions from the folks who have BTDT?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -jeffrey
> 


-- 
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg  VA
64 TR4 in autox preparation
95% finished, 90% to go

From KingR44916 at aol.com  Mon Oct  8 13:52:46 2007
From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 15:52:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] carb
Message-ID: <c34.1da63652.343be48e@aol.com>

i have a 76 tr6 and i'm looking for a rear carb i'm in rockland co.new york 
looking to pick up anyone in north jersey might have one get back to me



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Oct  8 15:37:10 2007
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 17:37:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] 2 TR3 front fender questions
In-Reply-To: <009201c809d3$54c73530$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <009201c809d3$54c73530$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <200710081737.10953.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 08 October 2007 01:47 pm, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> I ask another 'what's this for question':
>
> I am installing all four fenders/wings and am clueless.  On each front
> fender, and 'cut in edgeways' are 6 ovals or slots. They are spaced 4-5"
> apart. These slots would directly above and forward of the front tires and
> only visable when the bonnet is raised.  They are only proably 1/4" below
> the car's hood.  What are these slots for?
>

Paul,

Not sure what you are asking her. The front fender is attached to the apron in 
the front via 1/4 28 inch bolts from the inside the fender well into the 
apron which should have cage captive nuts. A large washer + lock washer is 
used here + a 1/4 28 inch bolt. The slot allows for adjustment for fit.
Since they are prone to rust use some anti sieze on all bolts.

> Also, I (think) I know beading is normally attached by squeezing the tab
> between the panels and doing a 1/2 twist (with the tab bottom).

This is true. I also taped the tabs with masking tape so I didnt scratch the 
paint etc during install. After all is tight, I just bent over the tab flush 
with the fender well.

> But, how is the beading tabs attached to the fender (in that major portion
> of the fender exposed where the hood) is?

There should be a piece of sheet metal about 1" *  2 feet or so that has a 
groove on the top to attach to the bead and is thus screwed into the fender 
side with sheet metal screws. This holds the bead in place in the bonnet 
area. The remaining bead is held with 2 tabs against the rear body above the 
door. There should be a caged nut on the fender in which a 1/4 28 bolt is 
accessed from inside the drivers/passengers compartment for attachment of the 
rear most portion of the fender bead. 

> Obviously, this part of the 
> beading will be seen when the hood is raised?

That is true, the piece of sheet metal holds the bead tightly to the inside of 
the fender.

>
> Both of these questions concern the same panel( front fender) same stretch
> Thanks,
> Paul 60 TR3.

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Mon Oct  8 14:56:27 2007
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 16:56:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 Door Checkstraps
Message-ID: <bbe.174308f8.343bf37b@aol.com>

Hi Jeffrey,

My TR4 door link tabs were stretched, worn, and holes were ready to snap 
open, too. But my doors are totally stripped so I was able to clamp a new washer 
to top of upper tab and another washer below lower tab and insert a clevis pin 
to ensure holes were located as close to door as possible (as original). Then 
thoroughly braze washers to tabs and surrounding door metal. The paint was 
damaged in immediate area and there was some grinding and filing to get all back 
to the smallest looking repair. I'm pretty sure these tabs will never be a 
problem again and the rubber boots will still work as original. 

A bolt-in fix I considered: drill out the spot-welded-in bracketing 
(installed from inside the door), manufacture new brackets from scratch, and bolt back 
in. 

Note; I've noticed some of the new TR4-6 door links on the market are missing 
the steel washer nearest the snapping part. I think manufactures used 
incorrectly drawn parts from parts catalogues rather than the real item. I've seen it 
before. Anyway, the door link steel washer is critical for rubber cushion 
safety, and total length of door opening spec.

Good luck,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

Hi, Folks,
I'm replacing the check straps on  my TR4, something I've been meaning 
to do, literally, for years.
Now that I've got all the panels off and I'm in there, I see I have a 
two-fold problem. The checkstrap assembly provided by Moss goes into the 
kick panel area just in front of the door without issues. The problem 
I've encountered is the 'anchor' portion of the check strap on the door 
itself. It is distorted and almost torn free from the door.
The PO who was the original owner must have been pretty heavy handed and 
threw the door open pretty hard.
Is there a repair part for this? The anchor is spot welded to the door 
frame, so it's not something you can unbolt and replace.
Any suggestions from the folks who have BTDT?
Thanks!
-jeffrey<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> See what's new 
at http://www.aol.com</HTML>

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Oct  8 19:10:29 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 19:10:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 mystery bolts in firewall (forgive me)
In-Reply-To: <002301c808ee$c6156a30$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20071009011048.A8B2A187A05@autox.team.net>

Yep I see them, about a 2x4 inch pattern.  No idea what is on the other
side.   I'm in the process of going the opposite way of you, will begin to
take everything apart in the next 30-45 days.  If you have any placement
questions I would be happy to look at mine and let you know.

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul
Dorsey
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 8:32 AM
To: steven at newellboys.com; list Triumph
Subject: [TR] TR3 mystery bolts in firewall (forgive me)

Steven and Bill,
Thanks!
Good stab, but there about 8" below the clutch and brake m/c.
And while nothing exisits on the firewall on the driver's side (at this
location).  Mine were put on at the factory for my LHD TR3.

These are located above the passenger's right foot (in my LHD); which means
that the area (where the captive nuts)are exposed is under the fender of my
right front tire.
Paul
>
Steven wrote:
>Assuming that your car in LHD.  Are you seeing the bolts for the 
>>blanking
plate for the master/clutch cylinder unit, if the car was to have been RHD
they would be over there?

Paul Dorsey wrote:
>On my '60 TR3 (TS71318L)
>What are the 4 nuts & bolts thru the firewall for that located above 
>the passenger's right foot?
>The distance apart these captive nuts are maybe like the 4 corners of a 
>post card?
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

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From dorpaul at negia.net  Mon Oct  8 20:09:40 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 22:09:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 mystery bolts in firewall (forgive me)
Message-ID: <00aa01c80a19$74fd5a00$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Bill and Steven,
It's kinda funny, but Randall wrote me saying those 4 nuts are a mystery, 
however, it is possible that the chassis for a tube radio might be what they 
originally were for.  I wonder if anyone's found a good use for them?  I'll 
proably use them for maybe an alarm.  Maybe a fake alarm.

Actually, the price of shipping most determines the order in my restoration. 
I've compiled about 6-8 parts that I need, from one of the big three, but 
wait to call it in until I 'run up  against a wall' before I order it, and, 
can't do anything else before I place the order.  This saves number of 
orders placed.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 tr3


Paul Dorsey wrote:
>On my '60 TR3 (TS71318L)
>What are the 4 nuts & bolts thru the firewall for that located above
>the passenger's right foot?
>The distance apart these captive nuts are maybe like the 4 corners of a
>post card?

From dorpaul at negia.net  Mon Oct  8 21:25:07 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 23:25:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] perfectionist needed?
Message-ID: <00dd01c80a23$ff484a80$2994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I am not much of a perfectionist, but...

when I attempted to put the right-front-fender on over the inner fender, the
holes didn't quite line up.  Oh, the hole's center was visable and completely
under the uppermost hole's cutout, but, it still lacked 1/4 - 3/8"of lining up
perfect.  Need I be concerned?

Since I am now concerned with bodywork, is there any certain aspect of it that
demands closer attention than another?

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Sun Oct  7 18:14:37 2007
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 20:14:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] What happened here???
References: <mailman.2.1191693601.6922.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6097DDAC-EFE7-4D81-A16E-C70B09B399EA@telus.net>
Message-ID: <002701c80940$3ce92b50$5e0e08d8@CPQ12949640186>

I can't explain it, but it happens to me quite regularly.  I'll make two 
posts, one shows up immediately, the other in a few weeks, if at all.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct  9 04:09:47 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 03:09:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] What happened here???
In-Reply-To: <002701c80940$3ce92b50$5e0e08d8@CPQ12949640186>
Message-ID: <20071009100946.DDIS2495.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> I can't explain it, but it happens to me quite regularly.  
> I'll make two posts, one shows up immediately, the other in a 
> few weeks, if at all.

Sometimes, the post gets held for listmeister approval.  Long posts or those
that otherwise don't conform to the standards set (like being in HTML
instead of plain text) may fall into this category.

I also suspect that sometimes, the list server itself gets hung up on a
particular message for reasons that likely have nothing to do with the
message itself.  The program thread that delivers the message to thousands
of mailboxes may get hung up for whatever reason, maybe a response from a
remote mail server that it didn't expect or just a flat-out bug in the list
server software.  As a programmer myself, I'm all too aware that there is
always one more bug (at least).

In either case, what happens is that our listmeister eventually notices the
problem, and makes a decision as to what to do about it.  With the older
list software, restarting the server would repeat any 'stuck' messages; but
I haven't seen that happen recently so perhaps the new software handles that
better (or maybe it doesn't get stuck as often).

Anyway, my suggestion is to not take it personally (unless there is a
problem with your posts that you can fix).  Don't worry, be happy, and pay
no attention to that man behind the curtain <G>

Oops, strike that.  Instead of paying no attention, be grateful that there
IS a man behind the curtain.  Kind thoughts are good, donations are even
better !

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Oct  9 05:02:05 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 07:02:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] What happened here???
Message-ID: <d0d.1c6d3a37.343cb9ad@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/9/2007 5:10:24 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

Instead  of paying no attention, be grateful that there
IS a man behind the  curtain.  Kind thoughts are good, donations are even
better  !



To all procrastinators out there: I have saved a message from mjb for  months 
on how to make a donation.  I have discovered that it is as easy as  PayPal.  
This is money well spent.  Do it now!
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Tue Oct  9 05:59:17 2007
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 07:59:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Gunst Bearing compatibility with Sachs clutch pressure plate
Message-ID: <BAY117-DAV67121C41D154C1D63C28E9FA50@phx.gbl>

I appreciate the response to my email re: Luc clutches.  From the response
I've gotten it seems that the softest clutch pedal is obtained by using the
Sachs pressure plate and that the clamping pressure of the Sachs pressure
plate is more than adequate for a street car.  My question is, will the
Sachs pressure plate be compatible with the Gunst T/O bearing I have?   Is
anyone running the Sachs pressure plate and the Gunst bearing?  According to
one source the Sachs pressure plate is only compatible with two T/O
bearings, I believe Toyo being one (web site only gave stock numbers).  Any
information appreciated.

Take care.

 

 
Bob Rochlin

 
'72 TR6

From KingR44916 at aol.com  Tue Oct  9 06:06:09 2007
From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 08:06:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] weber carbs
Message-ID: <cb3.1cb29d37.343cc8b1@aol.com>

just searching the web and now it seems that weber has come out with a new 
conversion for the tr6 does anyone know about this system yet



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Oct  9 06:19:55 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 08:19:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] What happened here???
Message-ID: <d3d.14a2e7ee.343ccbeb@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/9/2007 6:02:34 AM Central Daylight Time, DLylis at aol.com 
writes: 
> To all procrastinators out there: I have saved a message from mjb for  
> months 
> on how to make a donation.  I have discovered that it is as easy as  PayPal. 
>  
> This is money well spent.  Do it now!
> 
Last time I made a donation the list went down for a couple of weeks.  
Coincidence?  Who knows?

Dave   

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct  9 08:55:40 2007
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 07:55:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Door Repair
Message-ID: <515248.84577.qm@web80414.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

What did you do to repair the vertical crease?  Bondo or did you knock it out?
Both. 1st the crease was hammered as smooth as possible (looked pretty good).
Then a skim coat of filler was put on the entire door, Sand. Then high build
primer. Sand. Then a black quide coat of paint. Sand. Then primer. Sand. You
get the idea. The driver's door is now the flattest and best looking panel on
the car.

I'm really looking forward to our trip next week from Chicago to
Jekyll Island GA - still some minor things on the 'TR4 to-do' list.

brgds,
Jay

'64 Triumph TR4 since '67

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Oct  9 10:03:04 2007
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 12:03:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] EBC Kevlar or Semi-Metallic
In-Reply-To: <000901c8091f$30f1ac80$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000901c8091f$30f1ac80$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0710091151160.1855@ankh.mit.edu>

On Sun, 7 Oct 2007, Bob Danielson wrote:

> For those of us who don't drive our cars particularly hard or fast, which
> pad from TRF would you put on: EBC Kevlar or Semi-Metallic (Hawk?)?? Which
> one gives off the least amount of dust & noise/squeal and stops best in
> normal driving?  TRF "promotes" the EBC Kevlar as being for fast road,
> auto-cross and mild race yet it seems that a lot of you use them for
> everyday driving.

I have no experience with either EBC or Hawk... However, I do have 
experience with kevlar and metallic compounds.

The kevlar pads on the race car that I use produce black dust. Not lots of 
black dust, but black dust that gets on your hands when you take the 
wheels/tires off. Kevlar is good because it's not very damaging to the 
rotors.

Metallic pads cause less dust, but you eat rotors at a higher rate. 
Metallic pads are also more likely to make noise.

All things being equal, I like the kevlar pads for street applications. 
You just have to clean the wheels a tad more often (less if you drive 
"normal" as opposed to me where I tend to get a bit "agressive" from 
time-to-time).

:-)

> Also.....it appears that there aren't the options for rear brake shoes like
> there are for front discs. Why is that?

The reason for this is several-fold

1. the rear brakes don't do much and therefore last a LOT longer than the 
front pads.

2. to get TR6 shoes lined with an appropriate brake compound, you need to 
turn in the shoes for re-lining. The race pad places can do this, but the 
cost is higher because of the lower demand for the work (the shops do a 
few sets at a time as opposed to hundreds or thousands.

3. several sources including (including tsimportedautomotive.com (Ted 
Schumacher) can re-line your old TR6 shoes with fancy compounds. I like 
the carbon kevlar because they work in all temps which is better for 
street driving.

4. A lot more cars use the Girling 16 caliper than use the Triumph 9" 
brake drum. Note that the number of possible sources for front pads is 
somewhat less than it used to be. That's because the demand is drying up. 
At some point, you'll have two choices: custom and whatever is available.

> Any experience would be appreciated as I plan on putting in my brake parts
> order tonight

Oooops. I guess this is too late. Oh well, I tried.

:-)

> Thanks
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Room N42-140Q            |  This space for rent
Consultant            MIT IS&T unix-linux-help |
Voice:617-253-7438    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From jtnichols at comcast.net  Tue Oct  9 20:14:55 2007
From: jtnichols at comcast.net (John T Nichols)
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2007 22:14:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Body Tag Number
Message-ID: <470C359F.1090803@comcast.net>

The BMIHT certificate for my 1958 TR3A shows "-TS" after the number. 
This tag was missing from my car when I acquired it. Most such tags that 
I have seen do not have anything but numbers. So, do any of the listers' 
1958 cars having the original brass body number tags have "-TS" on the 
tag or are there only numbers?

John T. Nichols
'58 TR3A TS32093LO
'86 TVR 280i

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Tue Oct  9 23:07:53 2007
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 22:07:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] List Get Together At Triumphest
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0710092207i3d4fb106ye4829ce8551d7ba3@mail.gmail.com>

Well just put together all the Welcome bags tonight for Triumphest and I now
realize I never set the time and place for the list get together. Lets make
it 7 PM Thursday. We have a meeting room right by the Triumphest
registration table, I believe it's downstairs. We can hang out in the room
or if people would prefer we can catch a boat and cruise the river. We'll
let the group decide when we get together.

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798

From davis.heglund at honeywell.com  Wed Oct 10 10:42:52 2007
From: davis.heglund at honeywell.com (Heglund, Davis (ETS-Elec))
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 12:42:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] GT 6 Bonnet on eBay
Message-ID: <134A35A4A7D00A44A3C985D62F3B88B4402C46@DE08EV802.global.ds.honeywell.com>

Listerati,  Sorry to  do this "shameless commerce", but I just listed a
GT6+ bonnet on eBay.  Only partially usable, as the right side is badly
crunched. Good left side, though.  I've heard of people piecing together
hoods, and thought somebody here might be willing & able to do that.  In
MPLS area.  I don't expect to get much out of it, but can't bring myself
to take it to the junkyard.  Must be somebody that can use it.  "Vintage
parts../Exterior/hoods"

Dave H

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct  9 10:40:53 2007
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (jholekamp at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 09:40:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] VTR-SE Jekyll Island GA
Message-ID: <596652.45980.qm@web80415.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greetings Ashford,
 
Sounds like a plan I can live with and reciprocate.
We're planning on leaving Chicago early on Tuesday the 16th and drive to
Williamsburg KY on the interstate hwys - 500mi (1/2 the distance).  Day 2, >
Knoxville, into NC via US129 (the tail of the dragon
http://www.tailofthedragon.com/ ) on to Hardeeville, SC.  Day 3 (Thurs) stop
at the 8th Air Force Museum at Pooler GA, then on to Jekyll Island via US17 -
arrive early PM. 
 
Our route home will be: Sunday - Jekyll to Robbinsville NC
via Baxley, Swainsboro, Thompson, Elberton, Lavonia, Toccoa, Clayton GA,
Franklin NC. Day 2 - Monday: northbound over US129 (the dragon - AGAIN!) and
on to Radcliff KY via Lenoir City, Crossville, Jamestown TN > Columbia KY.  We
plan to visit the G. S. Patton Museum at FT Knox and return to Chicago via
I-65 on day 3.
 
Sampling the widest possible variety of southern Bar B Q
enroute is a priority part of the scheme. 
I'll be with Steve Yott (red '67
TR4A) Bob Streepy (red '71 TR6) and Mark Moore (blue '67 TR4A), and of course
I'll be moving around in my green '64 TR4 (IL license no TTRR 44).
 
I think
we're all ready to drive some roads with more up/down-left/right than we
usually see in the upper mid-west. I'm really looking forward to the trip -
see you at Jekyll next week. 
 
If you come across someone who needs a bunk at
the convention hotel, we still have an extra available.
 
brgds, Jay
 
'64
Triumph TR4 since '67
 



----- Original Message ----
From: Ashford Little
<70tr6 at mindspring.com>
To: Jay Holekamp <jholekamp at sbcglobal.net>
Sent:
Monday, October 8, 2007 10:08:04 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] VTR-SE Jekyll Island GA
- bed available


Hey Jay,

Sorry I've not been in better contact, but you can
use that to redeem  
a cold hops and barley from me at Jekyll.

Cheers,
Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Wed Oct 10 12:19:59 2007
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 14:19:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Jekyll Is. and back
Message-ID: <OF2B50F44D.2F322CB0-ON85257370.006431B5-85257370.0064C765@gsk.com>

Jay,

I've done a bit of riding/driving in the Carolinas & Tennessee. There are 
too many roads to do the dragon twice (its famous, but may be covered in 
bikers, and it's not that fast, though very twisty).

Try this one too...the Cherohala Skyway - its just a short distance from 
Deals Gap - higher, faster, and offers better views as you fly by.

http://main.nc.us/graham/cherohal.html

Have fun...

Brian

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 10 13:47:00 2007
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 14:47:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Spit] Rear Toe - Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <C2806262.2B8%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <C3329664.1A62%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>

Hi all,

I just had the alignment checked on my spitfire and the shop told me that
one of my rear wheels is toed in and the other is toed out.  The wheel that
is toed out is is specs and the other one will be in spec by moving the
radius arm with 1 shim.

The only problem is that they/I do not know enough about the spitfire rear
end geometry to tell me if I need to add the shim or remove the shim.

Can anyone tell me which I need?

Thanks

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire with new tires

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Oct 10 14:13:53 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 14:13:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] Body Tag Number
In-Reply-To: <470C359F.1090803@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20071010201408.61C10187A96@autox.team.net>

John,

My '58 is just 1,500 units older than yours.  I did not have a tag on my car
either, just the EB tag that goes above it.  Like you my cert came back with
"986001-TS", but I haven not seen one yet with the "TS" on the actual plate,
so I  had mine made with just the numbers.  I think I saw where TRF is now
selling the plates, but their example shows only numbers as well.

Maybe JonMac can shed some light here?

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration)
"A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
T Nichols
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 8:15 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Body Tag Number

The BMIHT certificate for my 1958 TR3A shows "-TS" after the number. 
This tag was missing from my car when I acquired it. Most such tags that I
have seen do not have anything but numbers. So, do any of the listers' 
1958 cars having the original brass body number tags have "-TS" on the tag
or are there only numbers?

John T. Nichols
'58 TR3A TS32093LO
'86 TVR 280i
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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4:43 PM
 

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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.6/1060 - Release Date: 10/9/2007
4:43 PM

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Oct 10 14:18:46 2007
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 16:18:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Spit] Rear Toe - Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <C3329664.1A62%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <8C9D991E56261E5-6B4-5118@MBLK-M16.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Berger <bberger720 at sbcglobal.net>
Hi all,

I just had the alignment checked on my spitfire and the shop told me 
that
one of my rear wheels is toed in and the other is toed out.  The wheel 
that
is toed out is is specs and the other one will be in spec by moving the
radius arm with 1 shim.

The only problem is that they/I do not know enough about the spitfire 
rear
end geometry to tell me if I need to add the shim or remove the shim.

Can anyone tell me which I need?

==AM==
Logic tells me that adding a shim, which is done between the radius arm 
mount and the body, would increase toe-OUT (or decrease toe-IN).

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
http://mail.aol.com

From clarkfot at cwnicholls.net  Wed Oct 10 14:20:55 2007
From: clarkfot at cwnicholls.net (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 16:20:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Rear Toe - Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <C3329664.1A62%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C2806262.2B8%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
	<C3329664.1A62%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <007101c80b7b$1223d400$1342a8c0@semperon3400>

If you add a shim between the radius arm and the frame you will increase
your toe out or decrease your toe in.
   
Visualize:
Toe in is the amount the tire tries to steer/roll towards the center of the
car, toe out is the amount the tire tries to roll away from the center of
the car while driving forward. 

Clark

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Oct 10 14:33:55 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 13:33:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits] [Spit] Rear Toe - Spitfire
References: <C3329664.1A62%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <003901c80b7c$e135aa60$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Adding shims increase the toe-out and removing then increase the toe-in.

Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Berger" <bberger720 at sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:47 PM
Subject: [Spits] [Spit] Rear Toe - Spitfire


> Hi all,
>
> I just had the alignment checked on my spitfire and the shop told me that
> one of my rear wheels is toed in and the other is toed out.  The wheel
that
> is toed out is is specs and the other one will be in spec by moving the
> radius arm with 1 shim.
>
> The only problem is that they/I do not know enough about the spitfire rear
> end geometry to tell me if I need to add the shim or remove the shim.
>
> Can anyone tell me which I need?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Berger
> 78 Spitfire with new tires
> _______________________________________________
> spitlist at cox.net
>
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu  Wed Oct 10 14:26:55 2007
From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 13:26:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Door Check Strap Anchor TR4-6
Message-ID: <470D358F.6040509@mrl.ucsb.edu>

Thanks to all those who replied with their experiences with the broken 
check strap anchors. I'm not alone.

It looks like I've stumbled into one of the few parts on these cars that 
is commonly needed but doesn't have an off-the-shelf replacement.

I think I'll try to weld up a backing plate to be bolted inside the door 
that can receive the check strap. Or something.

Too bad those guys at 'ARE' don't have a product like this made from 
stainless.   

:^)

Thanks, gents,

-jeffrey

-- 
Jeffrey Barteet
Materials Research Laboratory
University of California
Santa Barbara, 93106

From motorcarriage at charter.net  Wed Oct 10 14:43:28 2007
From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 16:43:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Body Tag Number
References: <20071010201408.61C10187A96@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001401c80b7e$3685c3a0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571>

Hi John and Bill,

      My 58 has the Commision# Tag that reads " TS25248L"
The other Tag is " EB 25325"
Other #'s are 980576 Somewhere on the Bulkhead as well.

What is the latest procedure and costs for getting the Heritage 
Certificates?
Can You get several at once?
Regards,
Wayne Lee
58 TR3
64 TR4
75 TR6


> John,
>
> My '58 is just 1,500 units older than yours.  I did not have a tag on my 
> car
> either, just the EB tag that goes above it.  Like you my cert came back 
> with
> "986001-TS", but I haven not seen one yet with the "TS" on the actual 
> plate,
> so I  had mine made with just the numbers.  I think I saw where TRF is now
> selling the plates, but their example shows only numbers as well.
>
> Maybe JonMac can shed some light here?
>
> Bill B
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration)
> "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line 
> again!"


>
> The BMIHT certificate for my 1958 TR3A shows "-TS" after the number.
> This tag was missing from my car when I acquired it. Most such tags that I
> have seen do not have anything but numbers. So, do any of the listers'
> 1958 cars having the original brass body number tags have "-TS" on the tag
> or are there only numbers?
>
> John T. Nichols
> '58 TR3A TS32093LO
> '86 TVR 280i

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Oct 10 17:36:03 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 17:36:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] Body Tag Number
In-Reply-To: <001401c80b7e$3685c3a0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571>
Message-ID: <20071010233619.9E1611879BC@autox.team.net>

Wayne,

So you have the original plate for the 980576 number on your firewall and
there is no "TS" on it?

I should think you can order as many as you have LBC commissions numbers
for, excepting Jags.  

Here is the link, the current cost is 35UK pounds (about $70)

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration)
"A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!"


 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Lee
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 2:43 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] Body Tag Number

Hi John and Bill,

      My 58 has the Commision# Tag that reads " TS25248L"
The other Tag is " EB 25325"
Other #'s are 980576 Somewhere on the Bulkhead as well.

What is the latest procedure and costs for getting the Heritage
Certificates?
Can You get several at once?
Regards,
Wayne Lee
58 TR3
64 TR4
75 TR6


> John,
>
> My '58 is just 1,500 units older than yours.  I did not have a tag on my 
> car
> either, just the EB tag that goes above it.  Like you my cert came back 
> with
> "986001-TS", but I haven not seen one yet with the "TS" on the actual 
> plate,
> so I  had mine made with just the numbers.  I think I saw where TRF is now
> selling the plates, but their example shows only numbers as well.
>
> Maybe JonMac can shed some light here?
>
> Bill B
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration)
> "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line 
> again!"


>
> The BMIHT certificate for my 1958 TR3A shows "-TS" after the number.
> This tag was missing from my car when I acquired it. Most such tags that I
> have seen do not have anything but numbers. So, do any of the listers'
> 1958 cars having the original brass body number tags have "-TS" on the tag
> or are there only numbers?
>
> John T. Nichols
> '58 TR3A TS32093LO
> '86 TVR 280i

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.6/1060 - Release Date: 10/9/2007
4:43 PM
 
  

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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.6/1060 - Release Date: 10/9/2007
4:43 PM

From darrellw at ipns.com  Wed Oct 10 20:33:30 2007
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 19:33:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A intake manifold trivia question
Message-ID: <98B9D439-8254-40AE-90AB-27478F5683CD@ipns.com>

Does anyone know what the little hanging part, with a hole, just  
below where the front carb mounts is for?  You can see it here, the  
right most manifold, just above the "13":

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx? 
PlateIndexID=29119&SortOrder=5

I'm curious because I just got my new weber manifolds, and they have  
the same little bracket (though not tapped like the original).


-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From darrellw at ipns.com  Wed Oct 10 20:43:18 2007
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 19:43:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A intake manifold trivia question
In-Reply-To: <98B9D439-8254-40AE-90AB-27478F5683CD@ipns.com>
References: <98B9D439-8254-40AE-90AB-27478F5683CD@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <5A62B3BA-EB99-4F1F-A6DE-A2289D7E5AAE@ipns.com>

OK, answering part of my question.  The bracket on the weber  
manifolds is for the carb linkage (and thus goes on the rear carb).   
Still don't know what the one on the stock manifold is for.

-Darrell

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Oct 10 20:57:33 2007
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 21:57:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] seat storage
Message-ID: <NJEDLIPPPIKINBMDJOPBOEKNCEAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>

I want to up my original seats up in the garage loft in long term storage
and am concerned about mice (or other rodents) getting to them and chewing
up the stuffing.  I am guessing that a very heavy plastic bag might be the
best choice to prevent this, but was wondering if anyone had a better
suggestion.

Thanks.

kg

From cak at dimebank.com  Wed Oct 10 21:27:19 2007
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 20:27:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A intake manifold trivia question
Message-ID: <200710110327.l9B3RJ3h021532@moose.dimebank.com>

That's where the right angle arm of the throttle linkage goes.

For example, part 87 on

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29128

is bolted on with part 89.

From darrellw at ipns.com  Wed Oct 10 22:50:07 2007
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 21:50:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A intake manifold trivia question
In-Reply-To: <200710110327.l9B3RJ3h021532@moose.dimebank.com>
References: <200710110327.l9B3RJ3h021532@moose.dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <40C6BB2F-B81B-4B3E-9E5D-42AF5328F01D@ipns.com>

On Oct 10, 2007, at 8:27 PM, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:

> That's where the right angle arm of the throttle linkage goes.
>
> For example, part 87 on
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29128
>
> is bolted on with part 89.

Ahh, OK.  I have SUs, so it uses a different linkage.  Thanks!


-Darrell


-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From dlylis at aol.com  Wed Oct 10 23:09:06 2007
From: dlylis at aol.com (dlylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 01:09:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] seat storage
In-Reply-To: <NJEDLIPPPIKINBMDJOPBOEKNCEAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>
References: <NJEDLIPPPIKINBMDJOPBOEKNCEAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>
Message-ID: <8C9D9DBFBED0C47-1DC-7636@webmail-mf12.sysops.aol.com>

Moth Balls and lots of them


-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Gano, home <triumphs at consolidated.net>
To: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 10:57 pm
Subject: [TR] seat storage



I want to up my original seats up in the garage loft in long term storage
and am concerned about mice (or other rodents) getting to them and chewing
up the stuffing.  I am guessing that a very heavy plastic bag might be the
best choice to prevent this, but was wondering if anyone had a better
suggestion.

Thanks.

kg
_______________________________________________
dlylis at aol.com

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Thu Oct 11 04:40:42 2007
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 06:40:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph
Message-ID: <003101c80bf3$2c62a580$284d3b47@Scott>

Another speculation to stir discussion.

 

Scott Suhring

Mechanicsburg, PA

'70 TR6

'59 TR3

 

  _____  

From: Jay Snavely [mailto:jays at paonline.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 6:10 AM
To: John Krause; Scott Suhring; Joe Laurito; Bill Shover
Subject: Emailing: triumph

 

Shortcut to:
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/210892/triumph.html

This is interesting, but it is the Triumph motorcycle logo???

From fishplate at charter.net  Thu Oct 11 05:04:12 2007
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 07:04:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] seat storage
In-Reply-To: <NJEDLIPPPIKINBMDJOPBOEKNCEAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>
References: <NJEDLIPPPIKINBMDJOPBOEKNCEAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>
Message-ID: <20071011110423.PYLT23773.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 10:57 PM 10/10/2007, Ken Gano, home wrote:

>I want to up my original seats up in the garage loft in long term storage
>and am concerned about mice (or other rodents) getting to them and chewing
>up the stuffing.  I am guessing that a very heavy plastic bag might be the
>best choice to prevent this, but was wondering if anyone had a better
>suggestion.

I've been told by the motor home crowd that mice don't like dryer 
sheets (Bounce et al.).  I'd put some of those in the bag, using a 
towel to keep them off the upholstery.




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From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Thu Oct 11 05:31:35 2007
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 06:31:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear Toe - Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <C3336BDE.1A8E%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <C33373C7.1A92%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>

Ok,

One more stupid question.    The alignment shop has a range or .14deg to
.28deg for the front toe-in and a range of -.07deg to -.21deg for toe-out
for the rear.  Haynes has these as 1/16 to 1/8 inch toe-in at the front and
1/32 to 3/32 toe-out at the rear.
Do the degree numbers relate to/match the inches?
How do I convert Degrees of toe-in/out to Inches?
The shop can change their machine to read tenths of inches.  I could tell
them I want the front to be .0625" to .125" and the rear to be -.03125" to
-.09375" toe-out.

All help appreciated.

Thanks

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire - trying not to destroy new tires
 

> From: Bob Berger <bberger720 at sbcglobal.net>
> Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 05:57:50 -0500
> To: Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com>, Bob Berger <bberger720 at sbcglobal.net>,
> <spitfires at autox.team.net>
> Conversation: [Spits] [Spit] Rear Toe - Spitfire
> Subject: Re: [Spits] [Spit] Rear Toe - Spitfire
> 
> The alignment shop did not want to install the shim because my car has a
> rust hole in the lower outside corner of the vertical panel behind the seats
> that the radius rod is connected to.  They felt this was too rusty for them
> to risk adding a shim.  I should have just asked them for the tools and done
> this myself while I was there but they did say that they would check it and
> readjust the front toe when I brought it back.  I'll make sure that they
> bounce or roll the car before they check it this time.
> 
> Bob Berger
> 78 Spitfire
> 
> 
>> From: Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com>
>> Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 21:10:19 -0700 (PDT)
>> To: Bob Berger <bberger720 at sbcglobal.net>, "triumphs at autox.team.net"
>> <triumphs at autox.team.net>, <spitfires at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Spits] [Spit] Rear Toe - Spitfire
>> 
>> Removing a shim makes the radius rod shorter, which
>> moves the wheel forward, which will make it toe in.
>> 
>> I cannot see how an alignment shop could measure the
>> error but not know how to fix it!  The swing-axle
>> setup is pretty straightforward.
>> 
>> Besides, couldn't they try (for example) adding a shim
>> and seeing if the alignment gets better or worse?
>> Assuming nothing is frozen, rusted out, etc., adding
>> or removing shims takes just a few minutes.  They
>> should have dealt with it while the car was on the
>> machine.
>> 
>> Doug Braun
>> '72 Spit
>> 
>> 
>> --- Bob Berger <bberger720 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi all,
>>> 
>>> I just had the alignment checked on my spitfire and
>>> the shop told me that
>>> one of my rear wheels is toed in and the other is
>>> toed out.  The wheel that
>>> is toed out is is specs and the other one will be in
>>> spec by moving the
>>> radius arm with 1 shim.
>>> 
>>> The only problem is that they/I do not know enough
>>> about the spitfire rear
>>> end geometry to tell me if I need to add the shim or
>>> remove the shim.
>>> 
>>> Can anyone tell me which I need?

From dorpaul at negia.net  Thu Oct 11 06:56:50 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 08:56:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] captive nut replacement and underneath TR3 ?
Message-ID: <00fa01c80c06$32ffef70$d794df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Many of you have told me you have successfully installed captive nuts,
however, without a workable welder, I have possibly found ANOTHER way to mount
body panels.  Using SS bolts (1/4-20) and these 'U nuts, I hope to mount many
of my remaining body panels.  These "Spring U-nuts" are an improvement on my
'crude captive nuts' (which did work on one fender thusfar, by the way!).
They allow for 3/4"-holes-from-the-edge and reach around and hold the nut
too!
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0162854

Here's a question also, is it necessary to completely seal the front fender
'pocket' from underneath the car?  On my TR3, this area of fender normally is
completely enclosed by the A post, sealer plate, a top of the front fender,
and the bottom inner sill.  On my TR3,  about half of the metal which covers
the bottom inner sill seems missing  and allows for 1/2" gap.   This "cavity
or pocket" proably needs to be able to drain, but this "slit opening" between
the bottom fender and sill proably ought to be covered, right???

Thanks, Paul Dorsey

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Oct 11 07:13:36 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 09:13:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear Toe - Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <C33373C7.1A92%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C3336BDE.1A8E%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <470DE940.22744.2FA261F@localhost>

On 11 Oct 2007 at 6:31, Bob Berger wrote:

> Do the degree numbers relate to/match the inches?
> How do I convert Degrees of toe-in/out to Inches?

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand it:

Toe-in is usually given in distance, not angle.  The distance is the 
difference between the track measured at the front of the rim and the 
track measured at the back of the rim.  So the relationship to angle 
is that toe-in = 2 * wheel diameter * sin(angle).  The factor of 2 is 
because measuring the track wheel to wheel gives the sum of the two 
wheels, whereas if you measured it from the car's centerline it would 
be just one wheel.

A curious thing is that if you had one wheel toed in and one toed 
out, you could still end up with a correct distance value.  Of 
course, at the front the wheels do turn together but at the back they 
aren't supposed to.  Measuring w.r.t. the centerline would seem to be 
necessary for the rear.  And of course, at the front toe-in changes 
with steering angle so you need to have the wheels point forward, 
more or less.

I confess I'm unsure of that factor of 2.  I'm sure of the 
calculation, just not sure whether quoted toe-in values take it 
account or are meant to be interpreted as for just one wheel.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



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Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.7/1062 - Release Date: 10/10/2007 5:11 PM

From kentech0822 at verizon.net  Thu Oct 11 07:20:19 2007
From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 09:20:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] seat storage
In-Reply-To: <NJEDLIPPPIKINBMDJOPBOEKNCEAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>
References: <NJEDLIPPPIKINBMDJOPBOEKNCEAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>
Message-ID: <000f01c80c09$79bf0560$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP>

Mothballs are the best for rodent deterrent. But for more pleasant scent,
try clothes dryer sheets in the bags instead.

hth. PeterK 

-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Gano, home [mailto:triumphs at consolidated.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 10:58 PM
To: Triumphs List
Subject: [TR] seat storage

I want to up my original seats up in the garage loft in long term storage
and am concerned about mice (or other rodents) getting to them and chewing
up the stuffing.  I am guessing that a very heavy plastic bag might be the
best choice to prevent this, but was wondering if anyone had a better
suggestion.

Thanks.

kg

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Oct 11 07:40:08 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 07:40:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <003101c80bf3$2c62a580$284d3b47@Scott>
Message-ID: <20071011134022.2C7721879E9@autox.team.net>

Nice looking car, but I doubt the Triumph Motorcycle Company will let them
use that logo.  Body looks like a reworked Saturn Sky.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration)
"A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott
Suhring
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 4:41 AM
To: Triumph Mail List
Subject: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph

Another speculation to stir discussion.

 

Scott Suhring

Mechanicsburg, PA

'70 TR6

'59 TR3

 

  _____  

From: Jay Snavely [mailto:jays at paonline.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 6:10 AM
To: John Krause; Scott Suhring; Joe Laurito; Bill Shover
Subject: Emailing: triumph

 

Shortcut to:
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/210892/triumph.html

This is interesting, but it is the Triumph motorcycle logo???
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.6/1060 - Release Date: 10/9/2007
4:43 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.6/1060 - Release Date: 10/9/2007
4:43 PM

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Thu Oct 11 07:51:30 2007
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 09:51:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <20071011134022.2C7721879E9@autox.team.net>
References: <20071011134022.2C7721879E9@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8F45CB8A-160C-46C5-8CFD-D6866C7CAEFF@mindspring.com>

I think it could be a good thing if Triumph were to see a rebirth,  
but I can't say that I find that rendering very appealing.  Definite  
Sky/Solstice rear end and the front doesn't do it for me.  The side  
has the sculped look of the Z4 which I can't say I like either.


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Thu Oct 11 08:34:25 2007
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 07:34:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph
References: <003101c80bf3$2c62a580$284d3b47@Scott>
Message-ID: <011601c80c13$d36f2e50$210110ac@MIKESDELL>

I woke up this morning to find that one of my car makes, Marcos, is going 
bankrupt (again) and another of my car makes is being re-born (Triumph). The 
news doesn't affect either car that I own since the Marcos factory doesn't 
stock or sell parts for my 1966 Marcos and the new Triumph factory won't 
stock or sell parts for my 1962 TR3. I also have a 1961 VW beetle and when 
the new retro VW beetle came out there was a lot of speculation in the VW 
clubs how this would raise the awareness and prices for the original 
beetle... didn't happen. The new Triumph is interesting but the revival of 
the make is only important if you plan on buying one of the new cars 
(assuming that they export the model to the USA... the new Marcos never 
reached that stage and I couldn't afford it even if it was exported). The 
Triumph logo in the press release is not only a Triumph Motorcycle logo but 
it appears that the picture of the logo is of a Triumph motorcycle.... note 
that the body work has a compound curve like a motorcycle tank and that the 
body work is black while the car (prototype) is red.  Looking closely at the 
red car you can read triumph across the front edge of the bonnet in what 
looks like the original chrome Triumph type logo/letters that we all are 
familiar with from the earlier cars. I suspect an advertising person came up 
with the Triumph Motorcycle logo picture from a "stock photo service" and 
didn't realize that the picture wasn't of the correct logo. The car pictured 
doesn't make me want to run out and buy one but if BMW builds the car it 
will be worth looking at if it ever arrives at the local BMW dealer.
Mike Denman

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Suhring" <suhringtr36 at comcast.net>
To: "Triumph Mail List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 3:40 AM
Subject: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph


> Another speculation to stir discussion.
>
>
>
> Scott Suhring
>
> Mechanicsburg, PA
>
> '70 TR6
>
> '59 TR3
>
>
>
>  _____
>
> From: Jay Snavely [mailto:jays at paonline.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 6:10 AM
> To: John Krause; Scott Suhring; Joe Laurito; Bill Shover
> Subject: Emailing: triumph
>
>
>
> Shortcut to:
> http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/210892/triumph.html
>
> This is interesting, but it is the Triumph motorcycle logo???
> _______________________________________________
> mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

From jimhearn1 at comcast.net  Thu Oct 11 09:00:16 2007
From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 08:00:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Play in the steering column
Message-ID: <000001c80c17$6f571be0$171a694c@computer>

One of my TR6s was used to SCCA club race in the eighties and nineties.
>From all that pulling on the steering wheel, it has developed about < to =
inch of in and out play (felt as movement at the steering wheel) where the
column goes into the steering box.  Not having been into the rack and pinion
I'm not sure what is happening so I don't know if it is fixable, needs to be
replaced, or if it can go quite a while before being replaced.  The car is
not on the street; I only autocross and race it.

Thanks, Jim
Two '74 TR6s

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Thu Oct 11 09:59:17 2007
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 10:59:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear Toe - Spitfire
In-Reply-To: <8C9DA25E216E597-F18-173F@webmail-de16.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C333B285.1AA4%bberger720@sbcglobal.net>

Andy,

I hope to have time this weekend to check out the extent of the rust. I'll
see if the reinforcing bracket that holds the radius rod has been eaten away
and see if this repair needs to be made before the car is returned to the
road.  I'm very concerned if this is a safety issue.

I'm sure I'll have more questions once I get a good look.

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire  


> ==AM==
> Well, maybe they overreacted. On the other hand, it's almost never a
> good thing to have noticeable rust near any suspension mounting point,
> so you might want to look into a good, strong, proper repair (be it
> preventive or corrective)! ;-)
> 
> --Andy  Mace
> 
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er,
> Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
>  -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Oct 11 10:16:46 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:16:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph
Message-ID: <101120071616.28588.470E4C6E00091D0700006FAC22058844849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Mike Denman" <mikedenman at sbcglobal.net>
>  The 
> Triumph logo in the press release is not only a Triumph Motorcycle logo but 
> it appears that the picture of the logo is of a Triumph motorcycle
> I suspect an advertising person came up 
> with the Triumph Motorcycle logo picture from a "stock photo service" and 
> didn't realize that the picture wasn't of the correct logo. 

Some years ago CNN or one of the other cable networks had a talking-head report a business arrangment between IBM and Lotus Software.  Over one shoulder of the news-reader appeared the Big Blue logo and over the other was the familiar yellow-and-green logo for Lotus Cars LTD.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From JStasyszen at odmhsas.org  Thu Oct 11 10:31:35 2007
From: JStasyszen at odmhsas.org (Stasyszen, Jerry)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 11:31:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <8F45CB8A-160C-46C5-8CFD-D6866C7CAEFF@mindspring.com>
References: <20071011134022.2C7721879E9@autox.team.net>
	<8F45CB8A-160C-46C5-8CFD-D6866C7CAEFF@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <E18D34E83A849E4ABA7CAFD69251E6410A8D4C85@dmhsasmail.odmhsas.org>

It's still a Beemer no matter how they tag it. The Coopers are BMW's,
the Triumph's will also be BMW's just as the MG will be a Chinese car.
These are not and will never be anything like the original British cars.
It might help if they were actually built in GB but then, as rusty as
our cars are do we really want the British to start building cars again?
I mean afterall, you would think that a country surrounded by salt water
would have put some kind of rust prevention into their design.

JaT
Jerry Stasyszen
76 Spitfire

From dwillner at ptd.net  Thu Oct 11 11:17:49 2007
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 13:17:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR carpet mfg question
Message-ID: <000c01c80c2a$b4208910$2802a8c0@greenwaymedical.com>

I keep seeing this vendor on eBay selling carpets for TRs, MGs, etc. pretty
inexpensively. Has anyone purchased a carpet set from "Ben's Auto Parts" in
West Orange, NJ off eBay, if so, any comments on the quality and fit?  I know
you usually get what you pay for...but thought I'd ask. NFI. Thanks.

Dave Willner
59 TR3A
70 MBG
70 BSA Victor Special 441

From jtnichols at comcast.net  Thu Oct 11 11:18:41 2007
From: jtnichols at comcast.net (John T Nichols)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 13:18:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <003101c80bf3$2c62a580$284d3b47@Scott>
References: <003101c80bf3$2c62a580$284d3b47@Scott>
Message-ID: <470E5AF1.6080005@comcast.net>

The Brits have a word for this kind of uninformed speculation, bollocks.

John T. Nichols
'58 TR3A TS32093LO
'86 TVR 280i

Scott Suhring wrote:
> Another speculation to stir discussion.
>
>  
>
> Scott Suhring
>
> Mechanicsburg, PA
>
> '70 TR6
>
> '59 TR3
>
>  
>
>   _____  
>
> From: Jay Snavely [mailto:jays at paonline.com] 
> Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 6:10 AM
> To: John Krause; Scott Suhring; Joe Laurito; Bill Shover
> Subject: Emailing: triumph
>
>  
>
> Shortcut to:
> http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/210892/triumph.html
>
> This is interesting, but it is the Triumph motorcycle logo???
> _______________________________________________
> jtnichols at comcast.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Oct 11 14:12:09 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:12:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph
Message-ID: <d27.15a0999c.343fdd99@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/11/2007 11:17:20 AM Central Daylight Time, 
pethier at comcast.net writes: 
> Some years ago CNN or one of the other cable networks had a talking-head 
> report a business arrangment between IBM and Lotus Software.  Over one shoulder 
> of the news-reader appeared the Big Blue logo and over the other was the 
> familiar yellow-and-green logo for Lotus Cars LTD.

That's like the newsreader giving the financial report, specifically of some 
recent activity of the financier T-bone Pickens.

Dave   

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Thu Oct 11 14:57:07 2007
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:57:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] seat storage
Message-ID: <beb.1d111be1.343fe823@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/10/2007 9:07:16 PM Mountain Daylight Time,  
triumphs at consolidated.net writes:

I am  guessing that a very heavy plastic bag might be the
best choice to prevent  this, but was wondering if anyone had a  better
suggestion.





I'd use one of the rubbermaid plastic boxes with a lid from Lowes ....and  
sprinkle some mouse poison in and around the box.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Oct 11 16:41:29 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 22:41:29 +0000
Subject: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph
Message-ID: <101120072241.19937.470EA699000C523200004DE122165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

> Another speculation to stir discussion. 

If this car were a cup of coffee, someone forgot to put the grounds in.  
Terry
New Hampshire

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu Oct 11 16:41:38 2007
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 17:41:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph
References: <003101c80bf3$2c62a580$284d3b47@Scott>
	<470E5AF1.6080005@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <006f01c80c57$e3c73330$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

As in "A load of old..."

And that is one ugly car.

Mike


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John T Nichols" <jtnichols at comcast.net>
To: "Scott Suhring" <suhringtr36 at comcast.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] FW: Emailing: triumph


> The Brits have a word for this kind of uninformed speculation, bollocks.
> 
> John T. Nichols
> '58 TR3A TS32093LO
> '86 TVR 280i

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 11 16:43:46 2007
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 15:43:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  Emailing: triumph
Message-ID: <768274.48236.qm@web81705.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Note: forwarded message attached.



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
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to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.
http://travel.yahoo.com/
Received: from [12.208.35.128] by web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP;
  Thu, 11 Oct 2007 15:41:12 PDT
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 15:41:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kurt Johnson <kajohns64 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Emailing: triumph
To: "Stasyszen, Jerry" <JStasyszen at odmhsas.org>
In-Reply-To: <E18D34E83A849E4ABA7CAFD69251E6410A8D4C85 at dmhsasmail.odmhsas.org>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Content-Length: 765

"I mean afterall, you would think that a country
surrounded by salt water would have put some kind of
rust prevention into their design."

remember the Brits were only concerned about getting
the cars built and getting them on a boat headed for
the USA as soon as possible.  they couldn't be
bothered by simple rust proofing or even making sure
paint got on the backside of the body panels.









--- "Stasyszen, Jerry" <JStasyszen at odmhsas.org> wrote:

> It's still a Beemer no matter how they tag it. The
> Coopers are BMW's,
> the Triumph's will also be BMW's just as the MG will
> be a Chinese car.
> These are not and will never be anything like the
> original British cars.
> It might help if they were actually built in GB but
> then, as rusty as
> our cars are do we really want the British to start
> building cars again?
> I mean afterall, you would think that a country
> surrounded by salt water
> would have put some kind of rust prevention into
> their design.
> 
> JaT
> Jerry Stasyszen
> 76 Spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> kajohns64 at yahoo.com
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Oct 11 17:55:46 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 19:55:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Moss 5 Speed Conversion - YIKES
Message-ID: <000001c80c62$3fbcdf50$210110ac@bobspc>

I was just poking through the online version (http://tinyurl.com/2j68ug) of
the Moss sale catalog and noticed that they're selling the Ford Sierra Type
9, 5 speed conversion for $4895 but on sale for $4395 with free shipping. So
I surf on over to the Quantum Mechanics site (http://tinyurl.com/2nrfyd) and
find the same ( as near as I can tell) conversion for $3375 with shipping.
Anybody see a difference between these two items that justifies a price
difference of over $1000? This sure makes Herman's $1800 Toyota 5 speed
conversion seem like a bargain.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.7/1062 - Release Date: 10/10/2007
5:11 PM

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Thu Oct 11 18:33:01 2007
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 20:33:01 EDT
Subject: [TR] paging Torraine Johnson
Message-ID: <c1d.23fa558f.34401abd@aol.com>

Torraine
how about giving me a return email with your mailing address.
received your check today for the blank off plate but no address
thanks for buying from me
Frank Fisher



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Thu Oct 11 18:43:11 2007
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 20:43:11 EDT
Subject: [TR] nuts, bolts and lock washers
Message-ID: <c43.1ba17c9b.34401d1f@aol.com>

saw a picture of a bolted assembly today and had lots of thoughts.
when bolting 2 plates together, say the starter motor into my TR3. I have  
always used a bolt with flat washer, and on the other side a nut with lock  
washer. so I'm asking why not lock washer the bolt? sure the pressing of the  head 
left little interference tangs underneath it, but then I put a nice smooth  
washer between it and the plate. what stops the bolt from backing off?
again when bolting a plate to a blind taped hole, say the front fan of a  TR3 
to the fan hub. I use a bolt, through a lock washer, through a flat washer.  
what stops the flat washer turning?
iv always done things this way but just cant figure out why, and why have I  
never had a failure?
thanks
Frank Fisher
59 TR3



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Thu Oct 11 18:47:15 2007
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 17:47:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Moss 5 Speed Conversion - YIKES
References: <000001c80c62$3fbcdf50$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <01a501c80c69$701bd230$210110ac@MIKESDELL>

I just got through installing one of Herman's 5 speeds in a TR3 last month. 
It is one of the best made after market items I have ever installed. 
Everything is well thought out and everything fits. If you have questions 
Herman is there to answer the phone. Once installed, the conversion works as 
advertised. The only change I made was to install a clutch master cylinder 
with a smaller bore so the clutch pedal would have more travel and would be 
easier to push since it is my wife's car (She had complained about the 
original Triumph clutch). At 3500 rpms the car keeps up with freeway 
traffic. I am a very satisfied customer.
Mike Denman


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 4:55 PM
Subject: [TR] Moss 5 Speed Conversion - YIKES


>I was just poking through the online version (http://tinyurl.com/2j68ug) of
> the Moss sale catalog and noticed that they're selling the Ford Sierra 
> Type
> 9, 5 speed conversion for $4895 but on sale for $4395 with free shipping. 
> So
> I surf on over to the Quantum Mechanics site (http://tinyurl.com/2nrfyd) 
> and
> find the same ( as near as I can tell) conversion for $3375 with shipping.
> Anybody see a difference between these two items that justifies a price
> difference of over $1000? This sure makes Herman's $1800 Toyota 5 speed
> conversion seem like a bargain.
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.7/1062 - Release Date: 
> 10/10/2007
> 5:11 PM
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


> _______________________________________________
> mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From dorpaul at negia.net  Thu Oct 11 21:16:13 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 23:16:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] squeak reduction?
Message-ID: <008101c80c7e$4decdb40$e394df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
Would anyone think I'm crazy for putting a little grease between the fender
and apron, scuttle, rear apron and trunk?  Of course, the objective would be
to surpress creaks while further reducing rust.

Paul Dorsey
60 Tr3   ("A little dab will do you")

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Oct 11 21:30:19 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 23:30:19 EDT
Subject: [TR] squeak reduction?
Message-ID: <bc8.1b47b154.3440444b@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/11/2007 8:17:30 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
dorpaul at negia.net writes:

List,
Would anyone think I'm crazy for putting a little grease  between the fender
and apron, scuttle, rear apron and trunk?  Of  course, the objective would be
to surpress creaks while further reducing  rust.

Paul Dorsey
60 Tr3   ("A little dab will do  you")




Paul, it isn't crazy, but is, er, counter productive I  think for this  
reason:
The fasteners clamp the parts together. The clamping force multiplied by  the 
coefficient of friction is what keeps them from moving.You reduce  
coefficient of friction with grease. 
If they are squeaking, they are not tight enough. 
 
Good Luck! Mike Moore 




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From als6point9 at gmail.com  Thu Oct 11 22:33:39 2007
From: als6point9 at gmail.com (Al Al)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 23:33:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR's
Message-ID: <fc6aeae80710112133i5e4e7b85o4815e85dd4e8a23@mail.gmail.com>

Check this out
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/210892/triumph.html

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct 12 04:52:19 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 03:52:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] nuts, bolts and lock washers
In-Reply-To: <c43.1ba17c9b.34401d1f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071012105220.DZPV2495.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> I have always used a bolt with flat washer, and on the 
> other side a nut with lock washer. so I'm asking why not lock 
> washer the bolt?

Frank, I understand bolted joint design theory just well enough to know I
don't really understand it.  But the theory seems to be that it's primarily
the spring action of the lockwasher that helps keep the nut tight, rather
than the teeth digging in.  And they are only used on a certain class of
joints, which I think means ones where the bolt may lose tension under
vibration, etc.  Generally you don't find them on joints where the bolt is
torqued enough to stretch (since then the bolt supplies the spring action),
like head bolts, main bearing bolts, etc.

So, a second lock washer wouldn't necessarily hurt, it just won't help.

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 06:07:05 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 08:07:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] nuts, bolts and lock washers
Message-ID: <bf1.1cb8f12f.3440bd69@aol.com>

If I may jump in here.  Does a grade 2 lockwasher present less "lock"  than a 
grade 5, which presents less than a grade 8?  The answer seems  obvious, and 
I have been inclined to use grade 5 and 8 where I can.   Also, which is better 
to use in appropriate applications, a lockwasher or a  nyloc?  Is it wise to 
use a nyloc in place of a castellated nut with split  pin? The nylocs I have 
available are only grade 2, so that answer may be  obvious as well.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri Oct 12 06:10:28 2007
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 08:10:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <E18D34E83A849E4ABA7CAFD69251E6410A8D4C85@dmhsasmail.odmhsas.org>
Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C0785A572@exchange.terra-incognita.net>

Hi Jerry:

Well, the USA is bordered by a lot of salt water and it didn't seem to
motivate them to rustproof the cars. Back in the 1970s in Quebec it was
common to see holes in a car after 3-4 years. Piling on rust-proofing
tar sort of helped, but the cars were made of some sort of water soluble
steel and soon fell apart no matter what you did. My TR6 was actually
quite resistant compared to other machines in most areas excluding, of
course, the rear wings which were famous for filling with mud and
rusting out.

Cheers,

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Stasyszen, Jerry
Sent: October 11, 2007 12:32 PM
To: Triumph Mail List
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph

It's still a Beemer no matter how they tag it. The Coopers are BMW's,
the Triumph's will also be BMW's just as the MG will be a Chinese car.
These are not and will never be anything like the original British cars.
It might help if they were actually built in GB but then, as rusty as
our cars are do we really want the British to start building cars again?
I mean afterall, you would think that a country surrounded by salt water
would have put some kind of rust prevention into their design.

JaT
Jerry Stasyszen
76 Spitfire

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Oct 12 06:13:10 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 08:13:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Play in the steering column
In-Reply-To: <000001c80c17$6f571be0$171a694c@computer>
References: <000001c80c17$6f571be0$171a694c@computer>
Message-ID: <000401c80cc9$43b5d910$210110ac@bobspc>

Jim,
If you think the slop is in the column itself, Art Lipp
(http://www.trparts.com/newitems/column.html)  has a couple of inexpensive
options to consider. You can get a rebuilt column with his Delrin bushings
for $50 or just buy the bushings for $25 and tap them in place. No need to
remove the old bushings or even the column. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jim hearn
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 11:00 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Play in the steering column

One of my TR6s was used to SCCA club race in the eighties and nineties.
>From all that pulling on the steering wheel, it has developed about < 
>to =
inch of in and out play (felt as movement at the steering wheel) where the
column goes into the steering box.  Not having been into the rack and pinion
I'm not sure what is happening so I don't know if it is fixable, needs to be
replaced, or if it can go quite a while before being replaced.  The car is
not on the street; I only autocross and race it.

Thanks, Jim
Two '74 TR6s

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat] _______________________________________________
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.8/1064 - Release Date: 10/11/2007
3:09 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.8/1064 - Release Date: 10/11/2007
3:09 PM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Oct 12 06:37:04 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 08:37:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Interesting Product
Message-ID: <000001c80ccc$9bbc4dd0$210110ac@bobspc>

Here's an interesting product (http://tinyurl.com/2lezm4) on eBay that will
adapt your wheel bolt pattern to accept modern alloys. If you like the look,
it sure opens up a lot of wheel options. 

And no...... I'm not buying them.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.8/1064 - Release Date: 10/11/2007
3:09 PM

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 12 10:09:40 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 16:09:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Play in the steering column
In-Reply-To: <000401c80cc9$43b5d910$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c80c17$6f571be0$171a694c@computer>
	<000401c80cc9$43b5d910$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W439F8AF336DD4FDED3347E5A00@phx.gbl>

As I worked out some neglected details on my '60 TR3A I discovered slop in the
steering wheel.  I traced it to the fact that the steering wheel nut did not
contact the hub of my Moto Lita wheel.  I had to drill the ID of a large lock
washer to fit the shaft.  Once the washer was installed the steering wheel
became as tight as one could wish.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by
today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt
agline

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 10:18:28 2007
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 12:18:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] Moss 5 Speed Conversion - YIKES
Message-ID: <d4d.104d38d4.3440f854@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/11/2007 5:56:42 PM Mountain Daylight Time,  
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

I was  just poking through the online version (http://tinyurl.com/2j68ug) of
the  Moss sale catalog and noticed that they're selling the Ford Sierra Type
9,  5 speed conversion for $4895 but on sale for $4395 with free shipping. So
I  surf on over to the Quantum Mechanics site (http://tinyurl.com/2nrfyd)  and
find the same ( as near as I can tell) conversion for $3375 with  shipping.
Anybody see a difference between these two items that justifies a  price
difference of over $1000? This sure makes Herman's $1800 Toyota 5  speed
conversion seem like a bargain.





Check _http://stores.ebay.com/British-Starters_ 
(http://stores.ebay.com/British-Starters)    He sells the same kit for $3000 delivered, and has one posted 
asking for "best  offer".
 
I agree Herman's $1800 sounds good too.  The Toyota 5 speeds were  going 
around here for $125-$175 each.
 
I sure wish he did an MGB conversion kit.
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 10:22:02 2007
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 12:22:02 EDT
Subject: [TR] squeak reduction?
Message-ID: <bf3.16ebcb3b.3440f92a@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/11/2007 9:31:00 PM Mountain Daylight Time,  
MMoore8425 at aol.com writes:

Paul, it  isn't crazy, but is, er, counter productive I  think for this   
reason:
The fasteners clamp the parts together. The clamping force  multiplied by  
the 
coefficient of friction is what keeps them from  moving.


I'd also worry about problems the painter will incur when it's time  to paint 
the car.  Kind of like the acid dipped bodys that are almost  impossible to 
get all the acid out of.
 
Where do you live Paul, is rust a problem there?
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From ebutschek at austin.rr.com  Fri Oct 12 13:10:54 2007
From: ebutschek at austin.rr.com (Eric Butschek)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 14:10:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] squeak reduction?
In-Reply-To: <008101c80c7e$4decdb40$e394df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <008101c80c7e$4decdb40$e394df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <E88357AA3D4D4B7CACCB3F82F6C33CCB@EricButschekPC>

I thought there is supposed to be
fender "welt" between the metal pieces to stop the squeaks, probabley gasket 
seal or plastic now, but back then like leather or wool.
Eric , Austin TX.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Dorsey" <dorpaul at negia.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 10:16 PM
Subject: [TR] squeak reduction?


> List,
> Would anyone think I'm crazy for putting a little grease between the 
> fender
> and apron, scuttle, rear apron and trunk?  Of course, the objective would 
> be
> to surpress creaks while further reducing rust.
>
> Paul Dorsey
> 60 Tr3   ("A little dab will do you")
> _______________________________________________
> ebutschek at austin.rr.com
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

From pryner at verizon.net  Fri Oct 12 13:28:37 2007
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter  Ryner)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 15:28:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] squeak reduction?
In-Reply-To: <E88357AA3D4D4B7CACCB3F82F6C33CCB@EricButschekPC>
Message-ID: <NBEEJEGGEGNFFCODHMLKIELDDHAA.pryner@verizon.net>

None of the TRs I've owned ever had any welting and I've never seen it on
any parts listing.  No sure why you are getting squeaks though.  I've had my
TR for over 20 years and it never squeeked.  If the bolts are tight there
should be no movement hence no noise.  I use the large original washers
under the nut head which may help.  I haven't used any lock washers and have
never had a bolt come loose.

I do agree that you wouldn't want to use any grease - very messy and
attracts dirt.  If you're really concerned I would maybe recommend a thin
coating of Silicone II.
Just my $.02

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Eric Butschek
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 3:11 PM
To: Paul Dorsey; list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] squeak reduction?


I thought there is supposed to be
fender "welt" between the metal pieces to stop the squeaks, probabley gasket
seal or plastic now, but back then like leather or wool.
Eric , Austin TX.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Dorsey" <dorpaul at negia.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 10:16 PM
Subject: [TR] squeak reduction?


> List,
> Would anyone think I'm crazy for putting a little grease between the
> fender
> and apron, scuttle, rear apron and trunk?  Of course, the objective would
> be
> to surpress creaks while further reducing rust.
>
> Paul Dorsey
> 60 Tr3   ("A little dab will do you")
> _

From dorpaul at negia.net  Fri Oct 12 13:51:51 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 15:51:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] squeak reduction?
References: <cb4.1e7b3ec6.3440c2e5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00a701c80d0a$3768aca0$e394df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Thank you for the information.  I will not apply grease between panels; only
something for rust..

I live in GA and since we're in a drought, maybe rust will go away.
But I'd rather have some rain.

Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 14:51:58 2007
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 16:51:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] squeak reduction?
Message-ID: <ce9.19ed20ab.3441386e@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/12/2007 1:40:58 PM Mountain Daylight Time,  
pryner at verizon.net writes:

I would  maybe recommend a thin
coating of Silicone II.



But if you get this on the old paint, beware.......
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:11:55 2007
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 14:11:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] The 1867 mile TR6 is back!
Message-ID: <774089.40744.qm@web30902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I believe that I've seen this car come up for sale a few times over the years.
It's now over $32K and climbing.  Only 2 days left so get your bids in...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2601679596
94&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=016

Joe Merone
CF18928 5-speed
_____________________________________________________________________________
_______
Shape Yahoo! in your own image.  Join our Network Research Panel
today!   http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Oct 12 16:57:43 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 18:57:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] no more clunk
Message-ID: <470FC3A7.11946.30EEC@localhost>

Sometimes the low-tech solution is the right one.

I took the fule sender out of the Spitfire's tank the other day.  My 
mirror wouldn't fit into the hole but from what I could see and from 
poking around inside with a wire I concluded there was nothing loose 
in the tank.  Can't say I like sticking my face into an open tank of 
highly combustible fluid, but I did wait for a damp, overcast day to 
do this so as to avoid ESD that might send me to kingdom-come.  I 
observed that the float has a bit of gas in it, which explains why 
the guage has been reading low.  I also observed that a rubber 
grommet/seal-like loop thingy was dangling loose from the arm.  There 
appeared to be nothing for it to seal.  So I guessed that it was a 
bumper-stop to prevent the float from banging, and that it should 
have been stretched around the center of the float.  So I moved it 
there, then later looked it up in a catalogue to find pictures which 
show the float with a collar around the center.  Aha!

Today's drive to work had no clunking!

Of course, the guage didn't work at all today.  Maybe when I put the 
sender back in I got it stuck on the pickup tube.  Or maybe the 
internals decided to break.  I believe it is wired correctly, but 
(though I don't have a diagram in front of me just now) I don't think 
it should make any difference.

So, is there any collective experience to indicate that the sender 
could just go bad?  I could drain and seal the float, but if the non-
functional guage is not my re-assembly error then perhaps I should 
just order a new sender.

[All missppellinnggs in this note are intentional.  I just can't 
tpye.]

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com



-- 
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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.8/1064 - Release Date: 10/11/2007 3:09 PM

From steven at newellboys.com  Fri Oct 12 17:15:08 2007
From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 16:15:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <003101c80bf3$2c62a580$284d3b47@Scott>
References: <003101c80bf3$2c62a580$284d3b47@Scott>
Message-ID: <470FFFFC.1000306@newellboys.com>

At least when people ask "okay, it's a Triumph, but who makes it?" we 
can answer "BMW". 

The photo is a poorly photoshopped combination of what, MINI headlights, 
a Cadillac grill, Z4 sides and maybe an Aura backend? There's no design 
unity, and considering the logo mistake, I doubt it's origin was BMW.

Steven "waiting 15 years for the new Triumph to depreciate" Newell
Littleton, CO USA
'62 TR4 x 2 etc.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct 12 17:33:21 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 16:33:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] no more clunk
In-Reply-To: <470FC3A7.11946.30EEC@localhost>
Message-ID: <20071012233321.MWCS4814.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>

> So, is there any collective experience to indicate that the
> sender could just go bad?  I could drain and seal the float,
> but if the non- functional guage is not my re-assembly error
> then perhaps I should just order a new sender.

I'm not sure if this answers the question, Jim, but it is possible for the
sender to fail.  I've got several bad ones.

But Im wondering if perhaps the 'bumper' was just heavy enough to hold the
leaky float to the bottom ...

Randall

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.8/1064 - Release Date: 10/11/2007
3:09 PM

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Oct 12 17:52:39 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 19:52:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] no more clunk
In-Reply-To: <20071012233321.MWCS4814.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>
References: <470FC3A7.11946.30EEC@localhost>
Message-ID: <470FD087.21594.3558B5@localhost>

On 12 Oct 2007 at 16:33, Randall wrote:

> > So, is there any collective experience to indicate that the
> > sender could just go bad?

> I'm not sure if this answers the question, Jim, but it is possible for the
> sender to fail.  I've got several bad ones.

Thanks, Randall.  Yes, it does answer the question.

> But Im wondering if perhaps the 'bumper' was just heavy enough to hold the
> leaky float to the bottom ...

Unlikely.  It's just a thin rubberband-like ring.  In any case,
before I took it apart the gauge showed a bit of fuel.  Now it's just
stuck at the low peg, unmoving.

Thanks again.

--
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



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3:09 PM

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Fri Oct 12 18:33:33 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 19:33:33 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] no more clunk
Message-ID: <20691383.1192235613937.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

>Now it's just stuck at the low peg, unmoving.
>Thanks again.
>Jim Muller

That's were my fuel gauge needle has been since I've owned the Triumph.  The sending unit is broken, therefore I use a wooden stick as the fuel gauge when in doubt about how much fuel is left in the tank.

Just a thought,

Greg Perry

ps the wooden fuel gauge stows in the boot when not in use.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct 12 18:14:42 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 17:14:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] nuts, bolts and lock washers
In-Reply-To: <bf1.1cb8f12f.3440bd69@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071013001441.SAUX2495.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

 DLylis at aol.com write :

>  Does a grade 2 lockwasher present less "lock" than a grade 5, which
presents less than a grade 8?

Again let me emphasize that I'm no expert; but I believe the answer is no.
Surely there is an ME out there somewhere ?

>  Also, which is better to use in appropriate applications, a lockwasher or
a nyloc?

Nylocs are not suitable for locations with high heat (like manifold nuts),
while lockwashers are not suitable for bolts that get a lot of torque
relative to their diameter (and grade).  Other than that, I don't know
(except that lockwashers are a lot cheaper to replace and they both
frequently need to be replaced).

> Is it wise to use a nyloc in place of a castellated nut with split pin?

Seems to be OK, as long as there is no chance of it getting hot (so not on
wheel bearings).  But again, a cotter is a lot cheaper to replace every
time; and IMO any Nyloc in a safety-critical location should be replaced
every time.  Even one remove/install cycle reduces the torque to turn them;
especially if the exposed threads were a little bit rusty or dirty.

> The nylocs I have available are only grade 2,

MMC offers them in grade 5 and 8 (as well as 2).
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3112

But since I tend to go with the original fastener (unless I have a good
reason to change), and AFAIK the originals were the equivalent of grade 2, I
mostly use grade 2.  The exception is the driveshaft flange bolts, where
I've had trouble with even new Nylocs backing off.  Perhaps my driveshaft is
somewhat out of balance or something.  Anyway, I now use what MMC calls
"oval lock conical top" nuts there, which only come in medium hardness
(roughly grade 5) steel.
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3115

Randall

From jimhearn1 at comcast.net  Fri Oct 12 20:14:50 2007
From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 19:14:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR6 hardtop in N. California
Message-ID: <000401c80d3e$d5c32a90$171a694c@computer>

Does anyone know of a TR6 hardtop for sale in Northern California?  It can
be rough (even dents and no headliner) since I only need it in order to be
eligible to rallycross.

Jim Hearn
Sacramento
Two '74 TR6s

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From trdoctor at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 20:21:27 2007
From: trdoctor at aol.com (trdoctor at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 22:21:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Switch
Message-ID: <8C9DB56E4BAFE07-D48-7CB2@webmail-da15.sysops.aol.com>

I know that it was posted a few weeks back and I wrote it down but can't find it.? What is the replacement part number for the TR6 brakelight switch?
Thanks for the help.

Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From cak at dimebank.com  Fri Oct 12 20:28:41 2007
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 19:28:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] nuts, bolts and lock washers
Message-ID: <200710130228.l9D2Sfv7008706@moose.dimebank.com>

> The exception is the driveshaft flange bolts, where
> I've had trouble with even new Nylocs backing off.

I ran into this a lot where the exhaust passes nearby - more on
the stub axle flanges in the rear of the 4A and GT6 than at
the gearbox output or diff input.

The bolts in all these applications are "special" - they have an
unusual part number (not the typical HB series). My cars had
a mix of fasteners, so I replaced them all. The "special" bolts
look like normal grade 5, anyway, and the grip lengths aren't
quite right - part of the threaded portion bears on the flange.

There's a "high temperature" nyloc nut in the AN series (AN365), and
I used these, along with AN6 bolts of the correct grip length and a
suitable AN960 washer. 

I haven't any of these nuts back off in several years of use; before,
I had to tighten them at every oil change (or sooner).

Best,
chris

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 04:47:13 2007
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 06:47:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR wipers gears
Message-ID: <cae.1de98d72.3441fc31@aol.com>

Hi Listers,
Anyone know which wiper motor 'drive gear wheel', in degrees, is best for
TR4-5-6 and Spitfire windsheild shape (they all use the same glass)?
I have two DR3A wiper units, one dated 10 '63 which has a 110 degree gear
(it's a single speed, has the two lucar push-on terminals and a black ground
wire),
the other is dated 2 '67 and has a 140 degree gear (it look to be a 2-speed,
has the 3-wire pigtail and black ground wire).
I'm guessing 110 degree drive gear for my TR4 but not sure.. anyone know?
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Oct 13 06:02:32 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 08:02:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Brake Switch
In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407196F55B88F@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <8C9DB56E4BAFE07-D48-7CB2@webmail-da15.sysops.aol.com>
	<7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407196F55B88F@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <001501c80d90$f4066290$210110ac@bobspc>

NAPA still has them under that part number SL310 for about $25 but Moss
lists the TR6 brake light switch for $6. I guess I missed that whole thread
about the switch.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf Of Foster, Stan
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 12:56 AM
To: trdoctor at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] Brake Switch

There was quite a bit of traffic on this topic but I recall that this NAPA
part number was mentioned:

Stan


In a message dated 7/31/2007 9:24:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
emanteno at comcast.net writes:

The  NAPA/Echlin part number for the Honda brake light switch is SL310. I
have had  one in my car since 1998. When I bought it, it was a stock part at
my NAPA.



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf Of trdoctor at aol.com
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 10:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Brake Switch

I know that it was posted a few weeks back and I wrote it down but can't
find it.? What is the replacement part number for the TR6 brakelight switch?
Thanks for the help.

Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs

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6:02 PM

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sat Oct 13 16:00:03 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 23:00:03 +0100
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
References: <20071011134022.2C7721879E9@autox.team.net><8F45CB8A-160C-46C5-8CFD-D6866C7CAEFF@mindspring.com>
	<E18D34E83A849E4ABA7CAFD69251E6410A8D4C85@dmhsasmail.odmhsas.org>
Message-ID: <003201c80de4$68b2c4f0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

> It's still a Beemer no matter how they tag it.

Just as post-war Triumphs were really Standards - i.e. cars designed and 
built by the Standard Motor Company. I take some pride in the fact that my 
own *Triumph* isn't a Triumph and never was. It's a four seater, fuel 
injected Standard Vanguard that only 'poses' as a Triumph, even though it's 
1970 build. Genuine Triumphs under Colonel Holbrook and his merry men 
stopped being made in 1939, so everything thereafter was just a name clone 
and little else.

> The Coopers are BMW's

Meaning presumably the Mini built by BMW in Oxford, UK? Sorry, that design 
is 1000% Rover from Longbridge and a design which even BMW at the time 
didn't interest them much. Didn't stop BMW taking it (along with the Triumph 
and Riley names) as part of the break-up when it ditched Rover.

> the Triumph's will also be BMW's just as the MG will be a Chinese car.

Exactly!

> It might help if they were actually built in GB but then, as rusty as
> our cars are do we really want the British to start building cars again?

Matter of fact, old chap - we've never stopped making cars in this country - 
albeit mostly now under foreign ownership. Honda, Nissan and Toyota are 
exported in their hundreds of thousands annually from the UK (many to Japan 
as well), while you guys seem to have a penchant for Land & Range Rovers in 
substantial quantities - and Jaguar's still going strong, although Ford 
allegedly still can't crack the warranty claims. A pity that Bentley is now 
owned by that Hitler's People's Car outfit and the current Rolls Royce looks 
like a brothel on wheels - but hey, when you hand over names to people who 
don't understand how to handle and respect them, anything can - and usually 
does happen :)

> I mean afterall, you would think that a country surrounded by salt water
> would have put some kind of rust prevention into their design.

W---------eeeeeeeee------lllllllllllllllllll ain't that relative? You're a 
pretty huge lump of land and renowned for making fairly huge lumps of 
motorised metal as well. Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't yours of of the 
60's/70's/80's they rust just as easily? Let's face it, the run-of-the-mill 
post war Triumph-badged Standard was never built to last long either, so 
what's the gripe? :)

But personally, if BMW do re-launch the name, I'd never buy an example, just 
as I never fly Lufthansa, on principle. Thank God BMW never got the 
opportunity to buy the Rolls Royce Aero Engine Division

Jonmac 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 13 17:18:29 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 16:18:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <003201c80de4$68b2c4f0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <20071013231830.BKNI2495.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> You're a pretty huge lump of land and renowned for 
> making fairly huge lumps of motorised metal as well. Correct 
> me if I'm wrong, but didn't yours of of the 60's/70's/80's 
> they rust just as easily?

Indeed many rusted far worse than the average Triumph did, in the same
conditions.

BTW, for the most part it's not the salt water in the ocean that causes them
to rust (well, with the notable exception of the Amphicar <g>).  The salt we
put on roads is a far more deadly enemy, and for some odd reason they don't
do that in the UK.

Randall

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 17:36:37 2007
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 19:36:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <20071013231830.BKNI2495.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <8C9DC09080E6764-9EC-5DD2@webmail-me02.sysops.aol.com>

 Randall,

I agree with you for the most part regarding your rust statement but only because most of the US is not near the salt air of the ocean.? Cars that spend a great deal of time in the sea air most definitely rust quicker and in places where cars exposed to salty roads don't normally rust.

My sister bought my grandfathers seldom used Pinto and drove if for awhile, until one day when she went out to get in it and one corner of the body was sitting on the ground.? My grandparents house was in Southwest Harbor, on Mt. Desert Island.? Wonderful place to visit but not the most healthy place for a car.

Cheers,

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: 'Triumph Mail List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 7:18 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Emailing: triumph










> You're a pretty huge lump of land and renowned for 
> making fairly huge lumps of motorised metal as well. Correct 
> me if I'm wrong, but didn't yours of of the 60's/70's/80's 
> they rust just as easily?

Indeed many rusted far worse than the average Triumph did, in the same
conditions.

BTW, for the most part it's not the salt water in the ocean that causes them
to rust (well, with the notable exception of the Amphicar <g>).  The salt we
put on roads is a far more deadly enemy, and for some odd reason they don't
do that in the UK.

Randall





 


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sat Oct 13 17:36:50 2007
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 19:36:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lessons learned: A-type OD and gearbox assembly tips
Message-ID: <47115692.8010408@blacksburg.net>

I just about lost my religion yesterday trying to reassemble the A-type 
OD to my TR4 gearbox, so thought I'd post some lessons learned; 
hopefully they'll benefit someone else.

Ensuring that the splines align perfectly so the mainshaft will slide in 
easily is fiddly.  Lightly lever the two bridge bars forward and spin 
the drive flange until the splines align perfectly.  Tap the bridge 
pieces rearward and align the splines perfectly with the pump axis, then 
align the mainshaft splines vertically (so the splines will mesh). 
Ensure that the pump cam lobe is at the 12 o'clock position.  Don't 
touch the drive flange.

Tie the pump roller in the full down position.  I looped bare 28AWG wire 
behind the roller, then wrapped it tightly to one of the solenoid side 
cover studs.

For the moment, use flat washers instead of lock washers on the long 
studs.  Lightly grease the mainshaft splines, slide the OD onto the 
mainshaft and tighten the nuts until there is about a 1" gap between the 
units.  Use a screwdriver to lever one of the springs to the rear, which 
will lock the sun gear so the splines rotate together.  You can then 
rotate the drive flange to mesh the splines on the mainshaft.  Be sure 
that all springs are properly seated on the adapter plate.  Continue 
tightening the nuts.  If you encounter significant resistance with a gap 
of about 0.44 - 0.47, the OD splines aren't properly aligned, so de-mate 
the units and start over.  Once you're past the 0.44 (+/-) gap, continue 
tightening.  At a gap of about 1/4" the pump should be under the cam. 
If you're as A.R. as I am, remove the pump filter and the 5/8" bolt to 
gain access to the pump.  Release the pump roller and rotate the drive 
flange a full revolution.  The pump should move.  If not, de-mate the 
unit, check to ensure that the pump isn't bent and moves easily, and 
start over.

When properly assembled the drive flange should easily turn the 
mainshaft (gearbox in neutral).

It wouldn't hurt to pack some grease under the pump to prime it.

Hopefully these tips will help someone.

Jim

-- 
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg  VA
64 TR4 in autox preparation
95% finished, 90% to go

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 13 18:25:45 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 17:25:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <8C9DC09080E6764-9EC-5DD2@webmail-me02.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071014002545.WTAU26917.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

Aaron wrote :
>	Randall,
>
>	
>	I agree with you for the most part regarding your rust statement but
only 
> because most of the US is not near the salt air of the ocean.  Cars that
spend a
> great deal of time in the sea air most definitely rust quicker and in
places where
> cars exposed to salty roads don't normally rust.
>	
>	My sister bought my grandfathers seldom used Pinto and drove if for
awhile, 
> until one day when she went out to get in it and one corner of the body
was sitting
> on the ground.  My grandparents house was in Southwest Harbor, on Mt.
Desert
> Island.  Wonderful place to visit but not the most healthy place for a
car.

Well, I live within just a few miles of the ocean, and for quite a few years
parked my TR3A with a view of the Pacific every work day.  Old cars with
indifferent maintenance are quite common around here, and it's very rare
that one sees significant rust damage on them.  Certainly nothing like
growing up in the midwest, where it was very common to see cars less than 5
years old with tin worm.  My HS English teacher bought a brand new Ford  my
sophomore year and it was perforated in multiple locations before I
graduated.

And they at least used to salt the roads on Mt Desert Island.

So while I agree that salt spray contributes to the problem, I still think
road salt is by far the worse enemy.  The combination of the two is worse
yet (as your sister apparently found out).

BTW, friend of mine owned a Pinto almost on the Mississippi river delta
(literally crawdad mounds in his front yard), and it never rusted out
either.  Finally burned a valve with some 180,000 miles on it, but very
little rust even when he junked it.  

Randall

From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk  Sat Oct 13 19:07:41 2007
From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 02:07:41 +0100
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <20071013231830.BKNI2495.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <20071014005904.B03291879F2@autox.team.net>

> On Behalf Of Randall
> 
> The salt we
> put on roads is a far more deadly enemy, and for some odd reason they
> don't do that in the UK.

Oh they most certainly do! 
Cheers,
Bill.

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 19:10:20 2007
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 21:10:20 EDT
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
Message-ID: <bf6.20bd15a7.3442c67c@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/13/2007 5:18:59 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

BTW, for  the most part it's not the salt water in the ocean that causes them
to rust  (well, with the notable exception of the Amphicar <g>).  The salt  we
put on roads is a far more deadly enemy, and for some odd reason they  don't
do that in the UK.

Randall



In the 60's and 70's here in Texas, you never wanted to buy a car from  the 
gulf coast over about 3 years old.  I remember looking at a  Porsche 356 back 
in the late 60's that was recently repainted and was  really cheap.  I was 
smart enough (and young enough) to get down and look  under it, and the whole 
bottom side looked like Swiss cheese.
 
Robert H.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 13 20:37:27 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 19:37:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <20071014005904.B03291879F2@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20071014023726.LTTT2495.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> Oh they most certainly do! 

Oops, my bad !

Randall

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Sun Oct 14 05:05:36 2007
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 12:05:36 +0100
Subject: [TR] Electrical wire Q
Message-ID: <E05820C0-73FD-4FBC-BCE8-950992122729@tcd.ie>

Morning all,
here is a nice nurdy one; I ma wiring the central gauge panel in the  
dash of my TR2,  the wiring diagram shows the brown/blue (36) coming  
from the A1 terminal on the control box to the A terminal on the  
lighting switch, in my loom this is quite a heavy cable (having only  
just connected it I do not want to disconnect to count the strands),  
i.e not like lighting circuit, but more like those coming off the Amp  
meter. There is a short link cable from the same A terminal on the  
lighting switch going to the ignition switch, this is also brown/ 
blue, my question is does this cable need to be the same thickness,  
rating as the one from the control box?.
P.S If I had realised how tight it all is behind the dash I might  
have opted for no heater
Regards
John
1954 TR2

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 07:53:15 2007
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 09:53:15 EDT
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 "revitalization" report
Message-ID: <d64.146262f9.3443794b@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/29/2007 11:21:32 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
emanteno at comcast.net writes:

Kai  Radicke at Wishbone Classics sells a nice Fidenza aluminum flywheel with 
ring  gear installed, at a very reasonable cost. You can also get a set of 
ARP  flywheel bolts from him at the same time.
NFI,
Irv Korey
74 TR6  CF22767U
Highland Park, IL



Anyone ever find Kai?  I was saving this email in case I wanted to  order the 
aluminum flywheel, but I'll dump it if he's gone out of  business.
 
Robert Houston



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Oct 14 08:26:13 2007
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 10:26:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lessons learned: A-type OD and gearbox assembly tips
In-Reply-To: <000901c80dfe$7187f950$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <47115692.8010408@blacksburg.net>
	<000901c80dfe$7187f950$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <47122705.5020403@blacksburg.net>

Ed Woods wrote:
> Jim,
> 
> Good method.
> 
> Also: A trial fit w/o the springs will check the spline alignment. The 
> o/d should go all the way "home". Then raise it just enough to insert 
> the 8 springs. I use two deep well sockets to support the o/d unit while 
> I insert the springs.
> 
> Ed

Ed, great idea, that method should be very easy to use.  Where were you 
when I was flogging the thing into submission?  :-)

I'm posting this to the TR List so it'll help other folks.  My sole 
concern with your method is damage to the pump (which is what got me 
into my predicament in the first place).  As long as the OD is eased 
onto the mainshaft and not allowed to fully seat (IOW, leave between 0.3 
- 0.4 inches flanges gap), the pump should be fine.  Don't ask me how 
much a new pump costs.  :-/

Jim


-- 
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg  VA
64 TR4 in autox preparation
95% finished, 90% to go

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Sun Oct 14 08:54:01 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 10:54:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Photos of Triumphest 2007
Message-ID: <002401c80e72$129e1630$6186fea9@bjdtr3a>

I had the pleasure of attending Triumphest in Laughlin, Nevada over the last
two days.  What a great time!  Later today I'll post some details about the
event, but for now, I've put about a dozen photos up on "The Triumph Forum"
in the Image Gallery section.  You'll need to register (free, and available
to anyone), which is simply creating up a user name and password, to see
them.  The link is:

http://www.vtr.org/forum/index.php

Then click on "Image Gallery" across the top.  Hope you enjoy them.

Cheers,
Blake Discher

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Oct 14 09:44:09 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 11:44:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
Message-ID: <c02.2293943a.34439349@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/13/2007 5:00:39 PM Central Daylight Time, 
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: 
> A pity that Bentley is now 
> owned by that Hitler's People's Car outfit and the current Rolls Royce looks 
> 
> like a brothel on wheels - 

Perhaps you can verify or deny the story I heard which goes as follows:

BMW were in line to buy Rolls Royce but at the last minute VW snuck in a 
higher bid.  Bitter and vengeful, BMW realizes that the RR name was, in actuality, 
owned by the air craft company so they bought the name rights our from under 
VW and consequently VW were denied the use of the RR brand are using the 
Bentley name instead.

If not true it sure makes a good story (which means it is probably a 
fabrication).

Cheers

Dave   

From dorpaul at negia.net  Sun Oct 14 12:01:42 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 14:01:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] James Bond uses POR-15
Message-ID: <010801c80e8c$488fe7e0$e394df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I've had success with dispensing POR-15 (Paint Over Rust) into much smaller
jars and then using them more often than the gallon quantity.  I think my last
gallon was poured into 25 smaller containers.  I also buy a quantity of $0.50
brushes enabling me to throw them away.  I also use 'clear' as spots on the
driveway don't show up if it rains!
    The instructions must have been written by James Bond, they say, "like a
great martini, it must be stirred and not shaken."  However, this I've NOT
adhered to, perhaps someone can tell me why this is important.
(Unfortunately, Randall dosen't use POR-15).  At any rate, I shake my little
container, use it and the brush up, and then sleep extra soundly at night!  Go
ahead someone, Burst my bubble!

Also, perhaps a better method for dispensing POR-15, would be to screw a small
screw of somekind into the bottom of the $130 gallon POR-15.  I've heard that
this is possible, but I didn't won't to unscrew it 20 times.  Is this really a
better way?
    BTW, I've heard the best deals on this stuff is on Ebay.  According to
Por-15.com they want :
      Pint............   $27.25
      Quart.........   $40.75
      Gallon........ $130.00

According to my calculations, if you order the same amount as a gallon from
them (but in 8 cans that are pint size) you pay $88 dollars just for the
priviledge of stirring smaller cans!  (Of course, I could 'stir' my little
containers if it's that important!)

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 12:30:05 2007
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 14:30:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] Lessons learned: A-type OD and gearbox assembly tips
Message-ID: <c9c.1c045dfa.3443ba2d@aol.com>

Thanks Jim,
Some day I have to go there.. will save your tips for then.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
I just about lost my religion yesterday trying to reassemble the A-type
OD to my TR4 gearbox, so thought I'd post some lessons learned;
hopefully they'll benefit someone else.
J.C. Hassall
**************************************
 See what's new at
http://www.aol.com

From drsandner at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 14 13:01:12 2007
From: drsandner at earthlink.net (j randolph sandner)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 15:01:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr6 rear brakes
Message-ID: <001701c80e94$9db08880$0401a8c0@hp6830>

listers,
as usual i need help again.........
trying to replace rear brake cylinders.
i have a rear brake from a parts car, and have removed the small outer clip,
and the next larger clip.
problem: the innermost clip hits against the hand brake lever, thus
preventing me from getting it off. any suggestions?????
have sprayed everything /c kroil, and should come apart easily tomorrow
morning.
the green grease goes underneath the bottom spring plate?
the rubber boot gets put on when?
vance, dick, bob, pls feel free to jump in here.
TIA
randy

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Sun Oct 14 13:24:42 2007
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 15:24:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <bf6.20bd15a7.3442c67c@aol.com>
References: <bf6.20bd15a7.3442c67c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <362A9326-D2E3-43AD-BF3C-295B3FFEBA9B@mindspring.com>

I was born in New Orleans and grew up on the Mississippi Gulf Coast,  
and I can assure you that the salt air did nasty things to cars.  To  
Randall's point, I'd like to know why the breeze off the Pacific in  
Southern California doesn't do the same - which we all know it  
doesn't.  It's got to be a humidity thing.


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Sun Oct 14 13:27:58 2007
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 20:27:58 +0100
Subject: [TR] control head Q
Message-ID: <337B219F-C205-49D4-BF7D-9EAC92D66C98@tcd.ie>

Can anyone tell me why I can rotate the control head from side to  
side on my TR2 project and it also moves when the steering wheel is  
turned, I nipped up the three grub screws to no avail, it is so long  
since I re-bulit the unit (5 years ago) I can't remember what locks  
it in position.
Thanks in advance
John
1954 TR2

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 13:33:54 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 15:33:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] control head Q
Message-ID: <be3.20a9642d.3443c922@aol.com>

Doesn't the stator tube go all the way through the steering box and lock  
with an olive nut there, and doesn't it have a slot arrangement between the  
stator tube and the head?
Mike Moore 59 TR3A



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 15:29:31 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 17:29:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] control head Q
Message-ID: <d1d.1451324a.3443e43b@aol.com>

Your stator tube is likely broken.  I just went through this.  If  so, google 
Macy's Garage and email Mark Macy. (NFI)  $50 if I remember  correctly.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From banjonut at verizon.net  Sun Oct 14 15:38:37 2007
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 14:38:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] R/H front upper control arm, needed
Message-ID: <00b301c80eaa$946fe750$6500a8c0@HAMPC>

Anybody know where to get a new Upper Control Arm (upper wishbone) for TR3A
front suspension?  I need the R/H front arm...mine has a nice big crack in it.
It's Moss P/N 661-010, but it's N/A from Moss.  I can't find it in the TRF
online database either, but I'll call them tomorrow.  Any other ideas for a
new one?

Thanks,

Steve Ball
Lompoc Ca
TS68164L

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Oct 14 15:56:26 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 21:56:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Distributor
Message-ID: <101420072156.18626.4712908A000BC667000048C222165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Shipswrong Disease.
My distributor is original to the car (it seems, anyway).  It's a DM2, and the points that I've been able to get didn't fit right.  Also, the top and bottom points plates were wildly loose in the center and wobbled badly.  So I sourced an upper/lower points plate for a 25D.  
Things started going squishy.
For starters, the new lower plate did not have the pronged mounts for the terminal bush (where the coil wire attaches). So to make things fit, I took the old bottom plate off my DM2 dizzy, attached it to the new 25D top plate, and was in business.  
When I took the plates off the dizzy, I inspected the centrifugal weights.  I should have known better.  If I hadn't seen the problem, it wouldn't have existed, right?  One of the weights had the spring completely broken and off.  Off I went to the hardware store, picked up some small light action springs, and manufactured replacements that let the weights swing easily, yet rebound.  At the same time, I cleaned and put tiny drops of oil on the action pins.
So two questions: 
After reassembly, I seem to lack power, and hear pinging I didn't hear before on acceleration.  I seem to have two courses of action that may be correct.  1) Do I simply advance the timing, thinking that the new top plate from the 25D is more retarded than the DM2?  ...Or 2) Do I need to order the $30 set of springs because the ones I manufactured don't have the right physical properties?
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Oct 14 16:06:33 2007
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 18:06:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] control head Q
In-Reply-To: <337B219F-C205-49D4-BF7D-9EAC92D66C98@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <000401c80eae$7bbf1d80$33683c18@DCH6RFC1>

A certain amount of movement is normal - I'd guess 5 - 10 degrees each way.
If more, it's either the nut at the bottom is loose or you have a broken
stator tube.  If the tube is broken, I have several.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
John Gillis
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 3:28 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] control head Q

Can anyone tell me why I can rotate the control head from side to  
side on my TR2 project and it also moves when the steering wheel is  
turned, I nipped up the three grub screws to no avail, it is so long  
since I re-bulit the unit (5 years ago) I can't remember what locks  
it in position.
Thanks in advance
John
1954 TR2
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Oct 14 16:16:31 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 22:16:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] Grumpy
Message-ID: <101420072216.25210.4712953F000085F60000627A22165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

I drive my TR3A every day it doesn't rain, so am used to the stares, the approving catcalls from teenagers and the thumbs up from fellow drivers.  Usually I smile and wave, recognizing how important it is to people to see something out of the ordinary, sometimes a good memory from their past.  Even the House Majority Leader in New Hampshire used to have a TR3 back in the 60's when we were all young.
But driving home from some work-related errands in Concord on Saturday, I was preoccupied monitoring an engine power problem I was having after doing some work on my dizzy.  (Can't wait to get the new distributor and the electronic ignition unit from Fred!)  So when the one-ton pickup passed me on I-93 towing a trailer, I was a bit grumpy to begin with having not fixed the ignition problem I was having, and grumpier yet that a big pickup towing a trailer was rubbing it in my face by passing me on the highway.  The driver of the pickup slowed, as so many do, and gave me a thumbs up.  Cheered a tiny bit, I gave him a polite (but reluctant) wave back.
Hah!
As he pulled ahead of me, I saw what was on his trailer...
...a British racing green TR3 nicely restored.... 
I've seen three TR3's in New Hampshire in the past 5 years.  One is disassembled and in the body shop of the guy who did mine, belonging to a man who had seen mine and couldn't live without one.  The other was in my rear view mirror turning onto the highway behind me last year.  Now this one.  
Sometimes the universe spanks you for lacking grace.  
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

From wsteinman at pogolaw.com  Sun Oct 14 16:32:51 2007
From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 18:32:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] American Silverstone Magnesium Wheel Question
References: <101420072216.25210.4712953F000085F60000627A22165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F0150E6B6@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET>

Just picked up a great set of four American Silverstone magnesium wheels for
my TR-250, and I'm *thrilled*!!!  However, like most wheels I've seen for
sale, they lack the dummy knock-offs that threat on to the wheel.  I know they
were forged from unobtainium, but by any chance does anyone have one or two
lying around that they'd be willing to sell to a die-hard 250 driver?
Alternatively, would anyone with experience be able to suggest a way to use
actual knock-offs (which I believe have a smaller ID than the threads on the
wheels) on the wheels?  Any wisdom is much appreciated.

Yay!

Bill S.

1968 TR-250
1968 MGC
1965 Sunbeam Tiger
1965 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III
2005 Lotus Elise


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From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sun Oct 14 17:23:35 2007
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 16:23:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] control head Q
References: <000401c80eae$7bbf1d80$33683c18@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <008001c80eb9$553f9cb0$8701a8c0@Dell>

There is another possibility; the fitting that the nut tightens onto at the 
bottom of the steering box may have come loose from it's moorings. It's been 
awhile, but if I remember correctly, it is welded to the inside of the end 
plate of the steering box and if those welds come loose, no amount of 
tightening the olive nut will secure it from turning with the steering 
wheel. I had this problem with mine, I took the endplate off and used some 
jb weld on it. It's been holding for over 5 years. Just be careful of the 
shims and bearings if you take that plate off.
Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
To: "'John Gillis'" <jgillis at tcd.ie>; "'Triumph List'" 
<triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] control head Q


>A certain amount of movement is normal - I'd guess 5 - 10 degrees each way.
> If more, it's either the nut at the bottom is loose or you have a broken
> stator tube.  If the tube is broken, I have several.
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf 
> Of
> John Gillis
> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 3:28 PM
> To: Triumph List
> Subject: [TR] control head Q
>
> Can anyone tell me why I can rotate the control head from side to
> side on my TR2 project and it also moves when the steering wheel is
> turned, I nipped up the three grub screws to no avail, it is so long
> since I re-bulit the unit (5 years ago) I can't remember what locks
> it in position.
> Thanks in advance
> John

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sun Oct 14 18:05:08 2007
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Patricia Donnelly)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 17:05:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] '09 VTR Announcement at Tfest
Message-ID: <4712AEB3.8090906@san.rr.com>

Somebody pinch me.

Did I hear Blake Discher (new VTR Pres) announce last night that the '09 
VTR will be in California at San Luis Obispo? And it will be a combo VTR 
& Triumphest? And it will be in the fall (he mentioned October)?

Wow. Thanks to Bob Musio and Paulette Caudill!

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Oct 14 18:07:59 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 17:07:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] '09 VTR Announcement at Tfest
In-Reply-To: <4712AEB3.8090906@san.rr.com>
References: <4712AEB3.8090906@san.rr.com>
Message-ID: <008601c80ebf$72628220$2202a8c0@newcomputer>

No pinching necessary.  I heard it in person and am greatly pleased.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
& Patricia Donnelly
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 5:05 PM
To: Triumph Email List
Subject: [TR] '09 VTR Announcement at Tfest

Somebody pinch me.

Did I hear Blake Discher (new VTR Pres) announce last night that the '09 
VTR will be in California at San Luis Obispo? And it will be a combo VTR 
& Triumphest? And it will be in the fall (he mentioned October)?

Wow. Thanks to Bob Musio and Paulette Caudill!
_______________________________________________
spitlist at cox.net

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http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sun Oct 14 17:47:30 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 16:47:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] James Bond uses POR-15
In-Reply-To: <010801c80e8c$488fe7e0$e394df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <010801c80e8c$488fe7e0$e394df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <D473263F3BF34068897D1964CA3497BD@GeoPC>

My old Dad taught me that varnish should always be stirred and not shaken as 
shaking introduces tiny bubbles into the varnish and the resulting finish. 
Perhaps this is also true of POR15?

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Dorsey" <dorpaul at negia.net>

>    The instructions must have been written by James Bond, they say, "like 
> a
> great martini, it must be stirred and not shaken."  However, this I've NOT
> adhered to, perhaps someone can tell me why this is important. 

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sun Oct 14 18:20:42 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 20:20:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] '09 VTR Announcement at Tfest
References: <4712AEB3.8090906@san.rr.com>
	<008601c80ebf$72628220$2202a8c0@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <01aa01c80ec1$3989d370$d21b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

> No pinching necessary.  I heard it in person and am greatly pleased.
>
> Joe C.
=========================================================================================================
At present I have good thoughts about the car making that trip, but, the 
driver is another prayer.  Look forward to it anyway.  "FT" 

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 14 18:29:44 2007
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 20:29:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] American Silverstone Magnesium Wheel Question
Message-ID: <380-220071011502944609@earthlink.net>

Bill,

Check to see if your fake knockoffs are RH or LH thread. If RH, I may still have some cheesy gold-colored 2-eared knockoffs that fit. Years ago, I bought the last 30 or so from a closeout at "Mr Lugnuts" for my TR250, before I discovered that it had 3 LH thread wheels. The gold ones are not original, but they could probably be chromed. If I still have them, you can have them for the price of postage.

Let me know. Tom


"Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" Henry David Thoreau

http://www.triumphowners.com/735

From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net  Sun Oct 14 18:51:31 2007
From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 20:51:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] control head Q
In-Reply-To: <d1d.1451324a.3443e43b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <012701c80ec5$8a6748f0$0301a8c0@chuck>

Mark Macy's website is http://www.macysgarage.com and his e-mail is
mark at macysgarage.com.

Chuck White
1965 TR4A IRS
1970 GT6+

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of DLylis at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 5:30 PM
To: jgillis at tcd.ie; triumphs at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [TR] control head Q


Your stator tube is likely broken.  I just went through this.  If  so,
google 
Macy's Garage and email Mark Macy. (NFI)  $50 if I remember  correctly.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 19:05:35 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 21:05:35 EDT
Subject: [TR] control head Q
Message-ID: <bf0.1c5307ac.344416df@aol.com>

I would seem to me that if the problem can be traced back to the olive or  
nut, that the lubricant would all leak out and the cam and worm would be running 
 dry.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Sun Oct 14 19:18:04 2007
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 20:18:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Scattershields
Message-ID: <200710150118.l9F1IF0V149105@ns3.geneseo.net>

I have made scattershields in the past from 6061 T1 aluminum, 1/4" thick.

You can see it at

www.tonydrews.com

scroll to "Jack's Parts"

For the usual reasons, I make no claims that they will do 
anything.................

uncle jack 



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From bbrewer at tvwireless.net  Sun Oct 14 19:33:34 2007
From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 18:33:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 H6 Carbs Running Rich
Message-ID: <D0580901-9F05-40D0-A00B-56B6B435161A@tvwireless.net>

      I finally replaced the rear SU on my TR3. It just wouldn't stop  
leaking gas no matter what I tried (leaking from the float bowl  
mount, new grommets and bolt didn't help). I used a spare carb I had  
laying around and rebuilt it with a complete new jet assembly from  
Moss. Long story short, it runs very rich. I checked the front carb  
(rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago) and it is also running rich. The  
plugs have black soot all over them front to rear. At least there are  
no leaks. The jets are adjusted all the way up and they are still  
rich. I installed lean needles from Moss and it is still rich.
      Any advice from the list?
      I've considered re-adjusting the needles to a lower position  
using a 1/16 or or 1/8 shim to set it instead of having the shoulder  
even with the  bottom of the damper. Has anyone else tried this?
      I live at about the 5,000 feet elevation.
      What gives?

      Bill Brewer
      Tehachapi, CA

From spamiam at comcast.net  Sun Oct 14 19:33:28 2007
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 21:33:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Distributor
References: <mailman.23975.1192404269.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003001c80ecb$64129af0$6401a8c0@p4server>

----- Original Message ----- 
> Message: 9
> Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 21:56:26 +0000
> From: terryrs at comcast.net
> Subject: [TR] TR3A Distributor
> To: triumphs at Autox.Team.Net
> Message-ID:
> <101420072156.18626.4712908A000BC667000048C222165514069C9D979D9D0A9B at comcast.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Shipswrong Disease.
> My distributor is original to the car (it seems, anyway).  It's a DM2, and 
> the points that I've been able to get didn't fit right.  Also, the top and 
> bottom points plates were wildly loose in the center and wobbled badly. 
> So I sourced an upper/lower points plate for a 25D.
> Things started going squishy.
> For starters, the new lower plate did not have the pronged mounts for the 
> terminal bush (where the coil wire attaches). So to make things fit, I 
> took the old bottom plate off my DM2 dizzy, attached it to the new 25D top 
> plate, and was in business.
> When I took the plates off the dizzy, I inspected the centrifugal weights. 
> I should have known better.  If I hadn't seen the problem, it wouldn't 
> have existed, right?  One of the weights had the spring completely broken 
> and off.  Off I went to the hardware store, picked up some small light 
> action springs, and manufactured replacements that let the weights swing 
> easily, yet rebound.  At the same time, I cleaned and put tiny drops of 
> oil on the action pins.
> So two questions:
> After reassembly, I seem to lack power, and hear pinging I didn't hear 
> before on acceleration.  I seem to have two courses of action that may be 
> correct.  1) Do I simply advance the timing, thinking that the new top 
> plate from the 25D is more retarded than the DM2?  ...Or 2) Do I need to 
> order the $30 set of springs because the ones I manufactured don't have 
> the right physical properties?
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire


Terry,

If it is pinging, then it is too ADVANCED!!!

If one spring was totally missing, then your mechanical advance is advancing 
earlier, but not more than the set maximum.  If you replaced the spring, 
then it will advance more slowly, but unless you used a very specific 
spring, you will have no idea WHAT the curve actually looks like.

Instead of spending $30 and only getting some new springs, send it out for a 
rebuild.  It sounds as if it is time.  After that, you can rest assured that 
everything is in spec.

-Tony 

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sun Oct 14 19:36:54 2007
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 18:36:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] control head Q
References: <bf0.1c5307ac.344416df@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00ea01c80ece$5e71b060$8701a8c0@Dell>

Well, apparantly not necessarily. There was plenty of oil in the steering box
when I removed the cover of mine. There is a lip of sorts on the inside and
that must have been enough to keep at least some of the oil inside.


  ----- Original Message -----
  From: DLylis at aol.com
  To: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net ; auprichard at comcast.net ; jgillis at tcd.ie ;
triumphs at Autox.Team.Net
  Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 6:05 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] control head Q


  I would seem to me that if the problem can be traced back to the olive or
nut, that the lubricant would all leak out and the cam and worm would be
running dry.

  David Lylis
  69 TR6 CC26160L
  60 TR3A TS74461LO





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Oct 14 20:45:17 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 20:45:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] control head Q
In-Reply-To: <000401c80eae$7bbf1d80$33683c18@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <20071015024526.D76B41879F9@autox.team.net>

Agreed, mine moves about that much too.
B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 4:07 PM
To: 'John Gillis'; 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] control head Q

A certain amount of movement is normal - I'd guess 5 - 10 degrees each way.
If more, it's either the nut at the bottom is loose or you have a broken
stator tube.  If the tube is broken, I have several.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
John Gillis
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 3:28 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] control head Q

Can anyone tell me why I can rotate the control head from side to side on my
TR2 project and it also moves when the steering wheel is turned, I nipped up
the three grub screws to no avail, it is so long since I re-bulit the unit
(5 years ago) I can't remember what locks it in position.
Thanks in advance
John
1954 TR2
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From FGFO1 at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 21:16:27 2007
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 23:16:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] por - 15
Message-ID: <d47.1617f43d.3444358b@aol.com>

Paul
as your welder has given up on you, I have a use for your left over  
steel-mix inert gas.
after each time you have used your can of POR put the lid on close and  stick 
the nozzle of your welder in the can. make sure the welder is in the off  
position. then dispense a small amount of the gas into the can. enough to  
displace the air. your POR will not skin over for the next time you use it. at  
least mine don't.
Frank Fisher



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From dorpaul at negia.net  Sun Oct 14 21:29:21 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 23:29:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] second thoughts...years later!
Message-ID: <012a01c80edb$9528b9c0$e394df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Eh Oh!  Even though my TR3 has been off the homemade rotisserie for several
years, I am still working on it and never have a Triumph!  However, something
about the rotisserie experience just hit me!
    I believe i 'rotisserized' the chassis before doing this to the body.
When doing the chassis, I read where it was important to first put the single
pipe in place in the front of the engine cavity to hold the sides apart even
though the engine was not installed.  I did this.

However, when rotisserizing the tub, I don't think I installed the tie member
(over the radiator).  Is this necesary... essential?  If it should have  been
done, then where should I possibly inspect to see if stress has caused
any...well uh,...'stress'.?

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From aribert at c3net.net  Sun Oct 14 21:32:18 2007
From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 23:32:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] OT- Automotive Creeper questions
Message-ID: <4712DF42.F513AA4F@c3net.net>

I am looking to upgrade my creeper.  I need something for use outside of
the garage where the creeper needs to roll over expansion joint gaps /
slab offsets.  Does any one here have experince with the plastic creeper
called "The Bone".  Other suggestions?  I know ther is an off pavement
version of the Bone but I am not willing to give up too much ground
clearance.  I have a custom made creeper for use inside of the garage
that puts my backside about 7/8 inch off of the pavement - I am spoiled
using it but it is hopeless over expansion joints (the underside clears
the concrete by only 1/4 inch).

From banjonut at verizon.net  Sun Oct 14 21:34:51 2007
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 20:34:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] '09 VTR Announcement at Tfest
Message-ID: <003201c80edc$58499370$6500a8c0@HAMPC>

Great news for us too!  It's right up the road from us, and the 3A should be
running solid by then.

Steve Ball
Lompoc Ca
TS68164L

-----------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 17:05:08 -0700
From: John & Patricia Donnelly <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
Subject: [TR] '09 VTR Announcement at Tfest
To: Triumph Email List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4712AEB3.8090906 at san.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Somebody pinch me.

Did I hear Blake Discher (new VTR Pres) announce last night that the '09
VTR will be in California at San Luis Obispo? And it will be a combo VTR
& Triumphest? And it will be in the fall (he mentioned October)?

Wow. Thanks to Bob Musio and Paulette Caudill!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 15 00:02:35 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 23:02:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 H6 Carbs Running Rich
In-Reply-To: <D0580901-9F05-40D0-A00B-56B6B435161A@tvwireless.net>
Message-ID: <20071015060234.FOXY20060.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

>       I've considered re-adjusting the needles to a lower 
> position using a 1/16 or or 1/8 shim to set it instead of 
> having the shoulder even with the  bottom of the damper. Has 
> anyone else tried this?

Worth a try ... but IMO you've got something else wrong, like internal leaks
or worn jets or maybe binding pistons.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 15 00:27:06 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 23:27:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] control head Q
In-Reply-To: <337B219F-C205-49D4-BF7D-9EAC92D66C98@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <20071015062706.ISYW2217.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> Can anyone tell me why I can rotate the control head from 
> side to side on my TR2 project and it also moves when the 
> steering wheel is turned, I nipped up the three grub screws 
> to no avail, it is so long since I re-bulit the unit (5 years 
> ago) I can't remember what locks it in position.

Can't tell you what's wrong, John, but I can tell you how it's supposed to
work.  The 3 grub screws are not involved (they force the canceling ring to
move with the steering wheel).  What is supposed to keep it from turning is
a tube that sticks out the back of the control head assembly, about 4" long
for a fixed wheel or about 12" long for the adjustable.  That tube fits over
a much longer tube, called the stator tube, that runs through the center of
the steering column all the way through the steering box and gets locked to
the front of the steering box with a gland (aka compression sleeve) and nut.
The short tube has dimples in it that engage with a slot in the stator tube.

As noted, some small amount of play is normal depending on how worn the
components are.  If it simply spins without limit (until the wires stop it),
then a broken stator tube is most likely, but it might be a problem with the
gland or it's fitting on the steering box front plate.  On my car, that
fitting was simply staked to the front plate, but maybe others are welded.
Another possibility, if it has never worked, is that you have a mismatched
stator tube & control head (both are different depending on whether the
steering wheel is adjustable or not).  Yet another is that the stator tube
is simply too low in the steering column.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 15 00:32:23 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 23:32:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr6 rear brakes
In-Reply-To: <001701c80e94$9db08880$0401a8c0@hp6830>
Message-ID: <20071015063222.JBBN2217.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> i have a rear brake from a parts car, and have removed the 
> small outer clip, and the next larger clip.
> problem: the innermost clip hits against the hand brake 
> lever, thus preventing me from getting it off. any suggestions?????

You have to remove the handbrake lever next.  Only one of the clips comes
out first, then the cylinder should be loose enough to pull it away from the
backing plate enough to slip the lever out.  That leaves clearance to remove
the last 2 clips.  As the TR3 manual puts it :

(iii) By using a screwdriver, prise the
retaining plate and spring plate
apart, then tap the retaining plate
from beneath the neck of the
wheel cylinder.
(iv) Withdraw the handbrake lever
from between the backplate and
wheel cylinder.
(v) Remove the spring plate and
distance piece, and finally the
wheel cylinder from the backplate.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 15 01:11:26 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 00:11:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical wire Q
In-Reply-To: <E05820C0-73FD-4FBC-BCE8-950992122729@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <20071015071126.HCHE26917.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> There is a short link cable from the same A terminal 
> on the lighting switch going to the ignition switch, this is 
> also brown/ blue, my question is does this cable need to be 
> the same thickness, rating as the one from the control box?.

No, the short link can be a smaller wire.  The NU from control box to
lighting switch carries the entire load of the car (save only for the horns
& OD) which can be roughly 20 amps, while the short link from light switch
to ignition switch only carries about 1/2 that much.

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Oct 15 05:04:14 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 07:04:14 EDT
Subject: [TR] Mr. Moly
Message-ID: <d3b.15da65e2.3444a32e@aol.com>

I have just switched my oil over to the Valvoline Racing VR1 (TR6) and  it 
was recommended that I also use a Mr Moly oil additive.  Others in my  club use 
the stuff but I have no experience with it.  When I opened the can  and pured 
it in I noticed that there were "solids" left in a layer in the bottom  of the 
can (thicker than the liquid).  I reduced this with regular oil and  poured 
that in as well.  My question is, does this stuff remain in  suspension in the 
oil or just settle to the bottom of the sump doing nothing  more than reducing 
the weight of my wallet?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Oct 15 05:14:00 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 07:14:00 EDT
Subject: [TR] James Bond uses POR-15
Message-ID: <c47.22bf0dd9.3444a578@aol.com>

Particularly true of Urethane varnishes.  Stirring gently will produce  a 
superior finish to shaking the can.  Never have it put on the shaker at  the 
hardware store. 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Oct 15 05:51:48 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 07:51:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] OT- Automotive Creeper questions
In-Reply-To: <4712DF42.F513AA4F@c3net.net>
References: <4712DF42.F513AA4F@c3net.net>
Message-ID: <001201c80f21$c6f5e400$210110ac@bobspc>

There's this one (http://www.kreepster.com/) A bit pricey but if your wife
kicks you out of the bedroom, it looks like you could sleep on it.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of aribert
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 11:32 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] OT- Automotive Creeper questions

I am looking to upgrade my creeper.  I need something for use outside of the
garage where the creeper needs to roll over expansion joint gaps / slab
offsets.  Does any one here have experince with the plastic creeper called
"The Bone".  Other suggestions?  I know ther is an off pavement version of
the Bone but I am not willing to give up too much ground clearance.  I have
a custom made creeper for use inside of the garage that puts my backside
about 7/8 inch off of the pavement - I am spoiled using it but it is
hopeless over expansion joints (the underside clears the concrete by only
1/4 inch).
_______________________________________________
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Mon Oct 15 18:06:59 2007
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:06:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 "revitalization" report
In-Reply-To: <d64.146262f9.3443794b@aol.com>
References: <d64.146262f9.3443794b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <471400A3.7020008@bright.net>

BearTranserv at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/29/2007 11:21:32 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
> emanteno at comcast.net writes:
>
> Kai  Radicke at Wishbone Classics sells a nice Fidenza aluminum flywheel with 
> ring  gear installed, at a very reasonable cost. You can also get a set of 
> ARP  flywheel bolts from him at the same time.
> NFI,
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6  CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
>
>
>
> Anyone ever find Kai?  I was saving this email in case I wanted to  order the 
> aluminum flywheel, but I'll dump it if he's gone out of  business.
>  
> Robert Houston
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> tedtsimx at bright.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
>   
We sell this flywheel (actually we supplied Fidanza with data and 
samples for all their Brit flywheels.). Commercially yours, Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Oct 15 06:11:25 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 08:11:25 EDT
Subject: [TR] R/H front upper control arm, needed
Message-ID: <cbc.1e2c2b9f.3444b2ed@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/14/2007 4:39:10 PM Central Daylight Time, 
banjonut at verizon.net writes: 
> Anybody know where to get a new Upper Control Arm (upper wishbone) for TR3A
> front suspension?  I need the R/H front arm...mine has a nice big crack in 
> it.
> It's Moss P/N 661-010, but it's N/A from Moss.  I can't find it in the TRF
> online database either, but I'll call them tomorrow.  Any other ideas for a
> new one?
> 
Does it need to be new?  these things rarely fail and there are plenty 
salvaged off of cars daily.  Check with all the usual second hand parts suppliers 
like TSI, Triumphs Only, Triumph Rescue, etc.

Get them sand blasted and powder coated and they will look like new.

Dave   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Oct 15 06:19:50 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 08:19:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] second thoughts...years later!
Message-ID: <d28.16cfba7a.3444b4e6@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/14/2007 10:29:39 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dorpaul at negia.net writes: 
> However, when rotisserizing the tub, I don't think I installed the tie 
> member
> (over the radiator).  Is this necesary... essential?  If it should have  
> been
> done, then where should I possibly inspect to see if stress has caused
> any...well uh,...'stress'.?
> 
Probably not an issue.  I am assuming, of course, that when you rotisserized 
the tub there was no weight on the suspension.  When sitting on the wheels the 
weight of the car can cause the shock towers to move and the bar will anchor 
the two towers together canceling out the tendency to bend in towards each 
other.  On the rotisserie the weight is carried at the rotisserie mounts, not the 
suspension so it is likely that the towers did not move.

Dave   

From banjonut at verizon.net  Mon Oct 15 06:38:46 2007
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 05:38:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] R/H front upper control arm, needed
Message-ID: <005a01c80f28$544f49d0$6500a8c0@HAMPC>

Thanks Dave,

No, it doesn't need to be new, although that is my first preference after
seeing some scary looking cracks in the parts I removed.  There are plenty of
salvaged parts on this car, so that's not a problem in general for me.  In
this case, about an hour after my first post about the cracked arm, I cleaned
the other R/H arm and found a similar crack.  The L/H suspension had not been
disassembled yet but I'm thinking that since I only want to do this job once,
I'd better be ready to replace those too....maybe just for GP's, since
everything on the car is the same vintage, and safety is a big concern with
the suspension.  The first arm had been repaired by a prior owner, and cracked
again right at the repair....not a good thing.

I suspected problems with this car so I'm rebuilding it before driving it...a
decision I'm happy about now.

I have nothing against used parts, I just don't want the vertical links to
suddenly become horizontal links while I'm driving.  I hate it when that
happens.

Steve



-----------------------
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 08:11:25 EDT
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Subject: Re: [TR] R/H front upper control arm, needed
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <cbc.1e2c2b9f.3444b2ed at cs.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

In a message dated 10/14/2007 4:39:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
banjonut at verizon.net writes:
> Anybody know where to get a new Upper Control Arm (upper wishbone) for TR3A
> front suspension?  I need the R/H front arm...mine has a nice big crack in
> it.
> It's Moss P/N 661-010, but it's N/A from Moss.  I can't find it in the TRF
> online database either, but I'll call them tomorrow.  Any other ideas for a
> new one?
>
Does it need to be new?  these things rarely fail and there are plenty
salvaged off of cars daily.  Check with all the usual second hand parts
suppliers
like TSI, Triumphs Only, Triumph Rescue, etc.

Get them sand blasted and powder coated and they will look like new.

Dave

From bbrewer at tvwireless.net  Mon Oct 15 06:56:44 2007
From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 05:56:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 H6 Carbs Running Rich
Message-ID: <2C0F88C4-F97D-4D03-8978-0613D649F875@tvwireless.net>

      The pistons both appear to slide freely.
      Where can these things leak internally?
      The jets are brand new. The needles look good as well.
      The car seems to run well, but starts a little odd and has a  
lopey idle. It smokes, which also shows that it is running rich.

      -Bill in Tehachapi



Message: 5
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 23:02:35 -0700
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 H6 Carbs Running Rich
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20071015060234.FOXY20060.mta11.adelphia.net at randall>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


>       I've considered re-adjusting the needles to a lower
> position using a 1/16 or or 1/8 shim to set it instead of
> having the shoulder even with the  bottom of the damper. Has
> anyone else tried this?
>

Worth a try ... but IMO you've got something else wrong, like  
internal leaks
or worn jets or maybe binding pistons.

Randall

From dorpaul at negia.net  Mon Oct 15 07:34:38 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 09:34:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] possible rotisserizing cracks?
Message-ID: <001401c80f30$23816ab0$d694df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
I rotisserized the tub seperately from rotisserizing the chassis.  I did so
without the tie member in place.  Should I now look anywhere on the tub for
possible cracks resulting from having done this?
Many Thanks,
Paul


In a message dated 10/14/2007 10:29:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
dorpaul at negia.net writes:
> However, when rotisserizing the tub, I don't think I installed the tie
> member
> (over the radiator).  Is this necesary... essential?  If it should have
> been
> done, then where should I possibly inspect to see if stress has caused
> any...well uh,...'stress'.?
>
Probably not an issue.  I am assuming, of course, that when you rotisserized
the tub there was no weight on the suspension.  When sitting on the wheels
the
weight of the car can cause the shock towers to move and the bar will anchor
the two towers together canceling out the tendency to bend in towards each
other.  On the rotisserie the weight is carried at the rotisserie mounts,
not the
suspension so it is likely that the towers did not move.

Dave
_______________________________________________

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 15 09:38:02 2007
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 11:38:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 H6 Carbs Running Rich
In-Reply-To: <2C0F88C4-F97D-4D03-8978-0613D649F875@tvwireless.net>
Message-ID: <BAY109-F204EC5B6F735660DA0BF9EA5A30@phx.gbl>

>       The pistons both appear to slide freely.
>       Where can these things leak internally?
>       The jets are brand new. The needles look good as well.
>       The car seems to run well, but starts a little odd and has a
>lopey idle. It smokes, which also shows that it is running rich.
>
>       -Bill in Tehachapi

Did you check the float level?

Too high = too rich.

John

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 15 10:37:05 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 09:37:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] R/H front upper control arm, needed
In-Reply-To: <005a01c80f28$544f49d0$6500a8c0@HAMPC>
Message-ID: <20071015163705.JSLF7709.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> I have nothing against used parts, I just don't want the 
> vertical links to suddenly become horizontal links while I'm 
> driving.  I hate it when that happens.

FWIW, my upper arms have been reinforced by "boxing" or welding a plate
across the open underside.  Not sure how effective it is, but they've been
on there for a whole lot of hard miles and no signs of cracks.  

Someone, don't remember who, used to offer re-engineered upper arms with
heim joints and adjustments for camber & caster.  You might call Ted S. or
Ken G. (why do gurus always have unwieldy last names ?) and see if they know
anything about them.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 15 11:10:28 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 10:10:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Mr. Moly
In-Reply-To: <d3b.15da65e2.3444a32e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071015171027.PPTS2495.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> My question 
> is, does this stuff remain in  suspension in the oil or just 
> settle to the bottom of the sump 

I don't know, but even that would be better than what some other "solid"
additives do.  Remember there is an oil filter who's job it is to remove
microscopic particles from the oil ... and will get clogged if it removes
enough of them.

Randall

From Btmfdchn at aol.com  Mon Oct 15 11:19:23 2007
From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 13:19:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] R/H front upper control arm, needed
Message-ID: <cec.1cc5c012.3444fb1b@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/15/2007 9:41:16 AM Pacific Daylight Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

You  might call Ted S. or
Ken G. (why do gurus always have unwieldy last names  ?) and see if they know
anything about  them.

Randall



Greetings...  'Cause the bright ones can handle names with more than  one 
syllable.             TJ (with 2 syllables)       ;<)   



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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 11:29:34 2007
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 12:29:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Empty Trailer going from Cedar Rapids, IA to Indianapolis,
 IN  10/19
Message-ID: <abb8688a0710151029p476638cdkf2cc5a8db2e42029@mail.gmail.com>

I'm taking my 16' open flatbed trailer from Cedar Rapids, IA to
Indianapolis, IN on Friday 10/19 to pick up a couple lawn mowers.
Anyone got something needs hauled for a small share of gas money?

John Innis
NASS#268
Cedar Rapids, IA
Murphy, '76 Spit 1500

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 12:00:40 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 18:00:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Distributor
Message-ID: <101520071800.25574.4713AAC80005C1C0000063E622007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: terryrs at comcast.net
> 2) Do I need to order the $30 set of springs 
> because the ones I manufactured don't have the right physical properties?

I expect that the design of the springs is integral to the advance curve.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Oct 15 12:54:57 2007
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 13:54:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] '09 VTR Announcement at Tfest  also '07 SEVTR
In-Reply-To: <01aa01c80ec1$3989d370$d21b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <4712AEB3.8090906@san.rr.com>
	<008601c80ebf$72628220$2202a8c0@newcomputer>
	<01aa01c80ec1$3989d370$d21b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <1E6A2B00B24343A281DEB214CC795227@CarlPC>

AT the rate I am going - my rebuild may (emphasize) MAY be done by then. 
Much slower going back together than I thought it would.   but talk about a 
trip.... 3000+ miles and that is only one way....
(figuring I would do some site seeing or visit relatives or get lost or...)

Also as much as I would like to go... I think I'll put the $600+ it would 
cost to go to SEVTR into the project.   Maybe next year...

From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 13:21:54 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:21:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 H6 Carbs Running Rich
References: <D0580901-9F05-40D0-A00B-56B6B435161A@tvwireless.net>
Message-ID: <001001c80f60$a5847ea0$5918e247@DCS78M81>

Going back to your original leaking H6 carb, you might find the right parts 
at
 http://www.aptfast.com/Main_Index_Page.htm  I just had the leaking flex 
pipe problem talked about recently and ordered the replacement from British 
Parts Northwest, but APT does list separate componets - washers, grommets 
etc.
Tom trying to get a non gas leaking car to SCVTR Wednesday.
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag 

From wsteinman at pogolaw.com  Mon Oct 15 13:27:20 2007
From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:27:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] American Silverstone Magnesium Wheel Question
In-Reply-To: <380-220071011502944609@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F016A81AF@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET>

Thanks Tom!  I'll check tonight! Very generous of you!

B.



********************

William B.F. Steinman
Powell Goldstein LLP
901 New York Avenue, N.W.
Washington, D.C.  20001
(202) 624-7292 (tel)
(202) 624-7222 (fax)
(301) 651-6083 (mobile)
wsteinman at pogolaw.com

PRIVILEGED & CONFIDENTIAL



	-----Original Message-----
	From: Tomislav Marincic [mailto:tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net]

	Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 8:30 PM
	To: Steinman, Bill; triumphs list
	Subject: RE: American Silverstone Magnesium Wheel Question




	Bill,

	Check to see if your fake knockoffs are RH or LH thread. If RH,
I may still have some cheesy gold-colored 2-eared knockoffs that fit.
Years ago, I bought the last 30 or so from a closeout at "Mr Lugnuts"
for my TR250, before I discovered that it had 3 LH thread wheels. The
gold ones are not original, but they could probably be chromed. If I
still have them, you can have them for the price of postage.

	Let me know. Tom


	"Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" Henry David
Thoreau

	http://www.triumphowners.com/735



	<mailto:wsteinman at pogolaw.com>



NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential
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Thank you.

From KingR44916 at aol.com  Mon Oct 15 13:57:50 2007
From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:57:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr6 storage
Message-ID: <c89.16e482dc.3445203e@aol.com>

anyone on this list live in rockland co and have a tr6 



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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 15 13:58:05 2007
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:58:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] Upper A Arms and used parts
Message-ID: <d48.135ad716.3445204d@cs.com>

Uncle Jack is the one who has done upper A Armsconversions to Heim Joints, 
but seems like over kill for the street.

Used Parts....I hate to say it, but I frequently prefer good used parts over 
Aftermarket Parts. Time after time I have experienced poor material, lack of 
heat treating, ad nauseum.  

It becomes painfully apparent at sustained speeds...and quite ugly during 
teardown.

Joe A

"FWIW, my upper arms have been reinforced by "boxing" or welding a plate
across the open underside.  Not sure how effective it is, but they've been
on there for a whole lot of hard miles and no signs of cracks.  

Someone, don't remember who, used to offer re-engineered upper arms with
heim joints and adjustments for camber & caster.  You might call Ted S. or
Ken G. (why do gurus always have unwieldy last names ?) and see if they know
anything about them.

Randall"
   </HTML>

From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us  Mon Oct 15 16:29:53 2007
From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:29:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW:  Play in the steering column
Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B59D@mail2.sr.local>

-----Original Message-----
From: Paige, Dean
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 2:11 PM
To: 'Bob Danielson'
Subject: RE: [TR] Play in the steering column

50s, 60s, 70s, 80s No auto I am aware of survived without major rust in
the great Midwest. Salted roads in Illinois were non discriminatory,
Cadillac, Lincoln, Chevy, Ford, Triumph...all succumbed within a couple
of years at the most. THE BIG reason there are so few examples left in
the Midwest for some of the most stylish of cars of the 50s and 60s.
Some of mine that required more metalwork than anything since, 56 Caddy
convertible, 55 Chevy Bel Air convert, 57 Ford ( absolutely the worst),
and MY 73 TR which over the years had every panel except the rear clip,
boot lid, and bonnet replaced due to road salt.
The real fooler is the classic Corvette. Nice fiberglass, good paint, no
rust? HA!... frames rotted away, suspension holding on a wing and a
prayer. Lots ended up here in Cal looking great until they were put on
the lift and...OH MY GOD!!!!!!!!!!! And the plaintive cry....What have I
done?

Deano

From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us  Mon Oct 15 17:27:12 2007
From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 16:27:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Emailing: triumph
In-Reply-To: <362A9326-D2E3-43AD-BF3C-295B3FFEBA9B@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B59F@mail2.sr.local>

Absolutely, The California climate for the most part has very low
humidity. Not  a lot of moisture to hold salt in solution and spread it
around.

Deano

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ashford Little
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 12:25 PM
To: BearTranserv at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Emailing: triumph

I was born in New Orleans and grew up on the Mississippi Gulf Coast, and
I can assure you that the salt air did nasty things to cars.  To
Randall's point, I'd like to know why the breeze off the Pacific in
Southern California doesn't do the same - which we all know it doesn't.
It's got to be a humidity thing.


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Mon Oct 15 20:02:42 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:02:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Across America 2009 Charity Run announcement at
 Triumphest
Message-ID: <47141BC2.7090202@tscusa.org>

Hello All:
We have arrived back home after traveling 1940 miles round trip from 
Colorado to Triumphest in Laughlin Nevada.  The Stag performed 
flawlessly, carrying us in comfort, style, grace and performance to many 
spectacular places out and back including Wolf Creek Pass on the 
Continental Divide, Monument Valley, the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, 
Historic Route US 66. 
Say, how do you go from "85 to 35" in 24 hours??    Depart Laughlin 
Nevada travel through Las Vegas, and 24 hours later be crossing the 
Rocky Mountains at 10,600 feet - Vail Pass with a foot of snow on the 
surrounding mountain peaks!!  85 degrees F in Laughlin and Las Vegas, 35 
degrees F at the top of Vail Pass on I-70.

My thanks to DCTRA for a great show.  I think the final tally was 
somewhere around 113 Triumphs, one Saab, and one Corvair.  =-O

I would like to hear thoughts and comments on the presentation for 
Triumphs Across America 2009 Charity Run I made at Triumphest's Awards 
Dinner.
This is quite the undertaking by John Macartney and many volunteers on 
both sides of the pond.

So your comments, good, bad, indifferent, wanting to participate, 
wanting to sponsor, wanting to contribute, wanting to volunteer are all 
welcome, but we would really like to hear and read overwhelming support 
for this endeavor.  I will let John respond to the thoughts and comments 
directly.

Look for more information in the upcoming The Vintage Triumph magazine 
due out sometime in late October.  I imagine the event will also be in 
the other Classic Car publications before year end, with interviews with 
John himself.

Also the web site for this event is to be connected soon.  This will 
have all the details on how to participate, including PDF copies of the 
Power Point presentation you saw at Triumphest 007 if you were there.

For a heads up, we are planning to attend Triumphest in Lake Tahoe in 
2008.  Master event planner Richard Gibbons is the event chair, so it 
will be a great celebration covering 50 years of one of the oldest 
Triumph Clubs around.  Our trip from Colorado will be on US Highway 50, 
one of the original Coast -to-Coast roads before interstates,  also 
known as "The loneliest road in America"  US 50 goes from Baltimore 
Maryland to San Francisco California.  US 50 goes right to Lake Tahoe 
through great scenic areas of the South West.

And don't forget, VTR SE Regional Convention is at Jekyll Island in 4 
days, then the North American Triumph Challenge VTR National Convention 
in Michigan for 2008, and - history in the making - the North American 
Triumph Challenge VTR National Convention to coincide with Triumphest 
2009 in San Luis Obispo California in October 2009.

Cheers!*__*

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From dorpaul at negia.net  Mon Oct 15 20:36:45 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 22:36:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 to Spitfire: gas tank interchangable?
Message-ID: <002301c80f9d$66158e70$d694df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I have just bought a Spitfire (62-70 Mkl-Mklll) fuel tank for only $15 off
Ebay.  It seems the dimensions are similar to my TR3's tank size.  One guy
said he thought they were interchangable.  Is this true?
    I had needed to 'JB Weld' some of the fittings on my original that I
messed up and I thought this might be a good backup.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey
60  TR3

From cole.jw at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 20:40:42 2007
From: cole.jw at comcast.net (Jerry Cole)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 19:40:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Color Question
Message-ID: <002a01c80f9d$f2ad39a0$ba00a8c0@Belen>

Good evening all,

 After three years, I finally drove my 1972 TR6 to the paint shop. The car is
(supposed to be) damson with black on the back between the tail lights and
around the windscreen on the frame.

 The question: Is the black supposed to be flat, matte, semi-gloss, gloss? I'm
pretty sure it's not gloss, but not sure what to have him paint it to make it
correct.

Thanks in advance!

Jerry
1972 TR6

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Mon Oct 15 20:49:21 2007
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 22:49:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Across America 2009 Charity Run announcement at
 Triumphest
Message-ID: <d53.1730f4d5.344580b1@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/15/2007 9:03:11 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes:

I would  like to hear thoughts and comments on the presentation for 
Triumphs Across  America 2009 Charity Run I made at Triumphest's Awards 
Dinner.
This is  quite the undertaking by John Macartney and many volunteers on 
both sides  of the pond.






I would like to hear what that is all about
 
Thanks,
Jack Mc 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From darrellw at ipns.com  Mon Oct 15 21:07:36 2007
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:07:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] If you have Weber DCOEs on your 4 cyl TR,
 what exhaust manifold  do you use?
Message-ID: <8393530F-6DC7-4287-80AD-9BE6F6185372@ipns.com>

Hi,

I'm in the process of installing Weber DCOEs on my TR4A.  I purchase  
the carbs and manifolds from Pierce, the manifold are the TWM  
manifolds (two pieces).  Currently my car has the 4-2-1 header, same  
as Moss is still selling.  The front manifold hits the tube from the  
first cylinder.  Looking at the header, it could be that the tube is  
welded a bit too high on the plate.  I also tried with my stock cast  
manifold, and it has a similar issue, but with the center two cylinders.

  My current header is ceramic coated, so anything I try will wreck  
that.  It may be that the plate could be cut off and re-welded in a  
better position.  So I'm thinking I will buy a new header anyway, but  
I'd hoping to increase my odds of not needing to do major rework to  
the header.   The current options I've found are:

Moss - $280 for another mild steel manifold (same as I have, but  
maybe a better fit?)
TSI - $150, hoping to hear back from Ted on the layout
BFE - $550 for a stainless steel, 4-1 manifold.  Ken hasn't heard of  
any fit issues, but it is a special order item (though we will take  
it back if it doesn't work out for me)

I would probably ceramic coat it even if I get stainless.

So, if you have DCOEs, what header/manifold do you use?

Thanks,
Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Oct 15 21:13:11 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:13:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Across America 2009 Charity Run announcement at
 Triumphest
In-Reply-To: <d53.1730f4d5.344580b1@aol.com>
References: <d53.1730f4d5.344580b1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301c80fa2$7bc3b080$2202a8c0@newcomputer>

I thought it was a great presentation.  I only wish I had the time and money
to participate!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
McGaheyRx at aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 7:49 PM
To: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Across America 2009 Charity Run announcement at
Triumphest

In a message dated 10/15/2007 9:03:11 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes:

I would  like to hear thoughts and comments on the presentation for 
Triumphs Across  America 2009 Charity Run I made at Triumphest's Awards 
Dinner.
This is  quite the undertaking by John Macartney and many volunteers on 
both sides  of the pond.






I would like to hear what that is all about
 
Thanks,
Jack Mc 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
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http://www.vtr.org

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From jgillis at tcd.ie  Tue Oct 16 02:25:48 2007
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 09:25:48 +0100
Subject: [TR] Control head problem found
Message-ID: <1192523148.4714758c8f041@mymail.tcd.ie>

Thanks to all on this one, Randall hit the nail on the head, the short tube
on
the control head is not gripping the stator tube, even when fully pressed
home,
not sure what to do about it, but knowing the problem is half the battle,
right?
John
1954 TR2

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Oct 16 05:43:24 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 07:43:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] R/H front upper control arm, needed
Message-ID: <d53.17385056.3445fddc@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/15/2007 7:39:21 AM Central Daylight Time, 
banjonut at verizon.net writes: 
> I have nothing against used parts, I just don't want the vertical links to
> suddenly become horizontal links while I'm driving.  I hate it when that
> happens.
> 
I hate when that happens.

All the more reason to clean and inspect used parts.  The make 'em pretty.

Dave   

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 05:49:19 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 07:49:19 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Color Question
Message-ID: <c64.1e0ea1be.3445ff3f@aol.com>

This has been a burning question on the list.  I say not flat.   One that you 
did not include is satin and in my experience satin is less than  semi gloss. 
 Paint sheens do vary from one manufacturer to another and  although I don't 
know for sure I don't think there is a standard.  Semi  gloss to my eye is too 
shiny.  I would consider a satin finish.  Do  not make your decision based 
upon the paint 'drying'.  Wait a few days and  you will see the true sheen.
Just my opinion.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 05:56:21 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 07:56:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] Control head problem found
Message-ID: <c89.16f4e013.344600e5@aol.com>

I am happy to hear it is not broken.  There is a row of dimples in the  
control head tube that fit in the slot on the stator tube (or vice versa,  but I am 
pretty sure it is what I said) that are supposed to keep it from  turning.  
You are likely going to have to reestablish those to grip the  slot.  As well I 
would investigate if there is excess binding that has  caused them to wear 
and rotate in the tube. 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From tr3bob at cox.net  Tue Oct 16 06:59:03 2007
From: tr3bob at cox.net (tr3bob at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 8:59:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Help..TR3 running on 2
Message-ID: <20071016085903.UHPOD.1794.root@eastrmwml03.mgt.cox.net>

Hi listers,

This is my first question from this new address.

I know there was a thread at one point or another, but I'm a little frustrated with this chronic problem.

My TR3A has about 4000 miles on a fresh engine. I rebuilt the carbs when I did the engine and thought everything was OK. 

I understood that the Triumph motor needed a heavy choke when first starting, but it has always run rough until it reached temperature. 

This rough starting has gotten worse over the last few months so that even at temperature it doesn't settle down completely. 

Last night  I did a little investigating. While it was idling rough, I pulled the wires off cylinders 3 and 4 with no change. I pulled the plugs and found 3 and 4 clean while 1 and 2 were extremely rich....rear carb??? I checked the float bowls, needle valves and pistons on the H6's....all seemed OK. Installed fresh plugs...no change. Cleaned the points and contacts in the distributor cap...no change.

 Hmmmmm....Should I replace the plug wires....distributor cap....reset the valves?? 

What gives?...I'm just a little frustrated with this. Has anyone else had this problem?

TIA

Bob Stahlbush

From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 07:39:57 2007
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 09:39:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 to Spitfire: gas tank interchangable?
In-Reply-To: <002301c80f9d$66158e70$d694df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <002301c80f9d$66158e70$d694df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <8C9DE112D0683A8-CBC-3E73@mblk-d47.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Dorsey <dorpaul at negia.net>

I have just bought a Spitfire (62-70 Mkl-Mklll) fuel tank for only $15 
off
Ebay.  It seems the dimensions are similar to my TR3's tank size.  One 
guy
said he thought they were interchangable.  Is this true?

==AM==
Paul, they are somewhat similar in that they both have "top/center" 
inlets. However, the Spitfire tank is only 9.9 gallons as I recall, so 
it is notably smaller in capacity and physical size (and shape) than 
the TR3 tank. The Spitfire tank also mounts differently (not an 
insurmountable problem, but worth noting).

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
http://mail.aol.com

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Oct 16 09:36:06 2007
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 8:36:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Help..TR3 running on 2
In-Reply-To: <20071016085903.UHPOD.1794.root@eastrmwml03.mgt.cox.net>
Message-ID: <20071016113606.9L8SV.70861.root@fepweb09>

---- tr3bob at cox.net wrote: 
> This rough starting has gotten worse over the last few months so that even at temperature it doesn't settle down completely. 
> 
>  Hmmmmm....Should I replace the plug wires....distributor cap....reset the valves?? 

As a first attempt, I'd change cap, rotor and wires.  If that doesn't solve it, at least you have the spares on hand that you will need sooner or later.

Can you swap the wires around to see if the problem follows the wire?

Jeff Scarbrough
Athens, Ga.
Spitfires and a TR6

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 10:49:55 2007
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 12:49:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Color Question
Message-ID: <c92.16b4dbcb.344645b3@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/15/2007 7:48:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
cole.jw at comcast.net writes:

Is the  black supposed to be flat, matte, semi-gloss, gloss?


Paint terminology has changed a bit over the years.....you didn't mention  
satin as a choice; I believe that it's closer to what "OEM" probably was.   I 
have a good photo of the rear of my purchased-new 1969 TR6 that somehow  
survived 35+ years in hot attic storage.  The black has some sheen but very  muted; 
not dull enough to be flat and not shiny enough to be  semi-gloss.....spray a 
sample of "matte" versus "satin" on a test panel and  compare.  Heck, when I 
restored the TR6, we sprayed the door (while it was  off the car) at least 5 
times with different shades (blends) of red until I saw  what I liked....each 
time we sprayed the door, I took it home and put it out in  the bright sun, took 
it under a tree, and looked at it indoors....spraying out  test panels is the 
best way to see what you're comparing.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U



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From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Tue Oct 16 11:44:56 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 18:44:56 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR6 Color Question
References: <c92.16b4dbcb.344645b3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <010e01c8101c$447339f0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

> Paint terminology has changed a bit over the years.....you didn't mention
> satin as a choice; I believe that it's closer to what "OEM" probably was.

I'd agree, too. Satin is the best description of all. It will polish up 
nicely yet still not look glossy or half gloss.

Jonmac 

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Tue Oct 16 12:34:07 2007
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 14:34:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rough Starting and Idling
Message-ID: <OF0BDB1C15.85A96AA1-ON85257376.00640B7D-85257376.00661300@gsk.com>

Bob wrote: <snip>. While it was idling rough, I pulled the wires off 
cylinders 3 and 4 with no change. I pulled the plugs and found 3 and 4 
clean while 1 and 2 were extremely rich....rear carb??? I checked the 
float bowls, needle valves and pistons on the H6's....all seemed OK. 
Installed fresh plugs...no change. Cleaned the points and contacts in the 
distributor cap...no change.

Bob,

Given that you need three things to get 'fire': spark, fuel/air mix and 
compression, I'd work my way through these to establish your issue, though 
on first glance at your description, I'd say something is not right with 
your rear carburettor.

Remove #3 and then #4 spark plugs and establish if you can see a spark 
when the threaded part of the plug is grounded to the engine block, and 
the engine is turning over. If NO, chase faults back through the HT lead 
to the distributor cap/rotor.

Check your compression in all cylinders and compare. If you have more than 
10% variance, and a low reading in #3 and #4, you can start investigating 
the cause. There is plenty on this in the archives and web, and you'll be 
able to establish the source of the compression failure (rings, inlet or 
outlet valve). My poor starting and rough idling was due to poor 
compression in #1, caused by an oversize (i.d.) exhaust-valve guide having 
been installed heaven knows how long ago. It purrs like a pussy cat now.

Fuel/air delivery: maybe the simplest way to establish that it is the rear 
carburettor at fault could be to swap front and rear carbs and see if the 
problem moves to #1 and #2 cylinders. Another lister recently established 
a carburettor as his issue's cause in this way (it looked like any one of 
a number of possible ignition failures). If it is the carb...it looks like 
you'll need to tear down that item. Do you have a fuel filter? Could it be 
partially blocked?

Good luck, and let us know how you get on.

Brian
TR4 14455 1963
Valley Forge, PA

From cole.jw at comcast.net  Tue Oct 16 12:53:46 2007
From: cole.jw at comcast.net (cole.jw at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 18:53:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] Help..TR3 running on 2
Message-ID: <101620071853.14448.471508B9000E87810000387022069997359906D20A04010C@comcast.net>

Bob,

 If you're using contact points, not electronic ignition, check your point gap at every distributor lobe. I had a Spitfire that had worn two of the four lobes down and did exactly what you describe. It was a real bugger to find. 

 Jerry
1972 TR6
 
> Last night  I did a little investigating. While it was idling rough, I pulled 
> the wires off cylinders 3 and 4 with no change. I pulled the plugs and found 3 
> and 4 clean while 1 and 2 were extremely rich....rear carb??? I checked the 
> float bowls, needle valves and pistons on the H6's....all seemed OK. Installed 
> fresh plugs...no change. Cleaned the points and contacts in the distributor 
> cap...no change.
> 
>  Hmmmmm....Should I replace the plug wires....distributor cap....reset the 
> valves?? 
> 
> What gives?...I'm just a little frustrated with this. Has anyone else had this 
> problem?
> 
> TIA
> 
> Bob Stahlbush

From cole.jw at comcast.net  Tue Oct 16 13:01:04 2007
From: cole.jw at comcast.net (cole.jw at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 19:01:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Color Question - Thanks!
Message-ID: <101620071901.19083.47150A70000E040E00004A8B22070009539906D20A04010C@comcast.net>

 Thanks to all! Satin it is.

Jerry
1972 TR6

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Tue Oct 16 13:28:26 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 12:28:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Control head problem found
In-Reply-To: <1192523148.4714758c8f041@mymail.tcd.ie>
References: <1192523148.4714758c8f041@mymail.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <26938A29975D4B0A928F29C30DFC64B6@GeoPC>

Do you have the adjustable steering wheel?

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Gillis" <jgillis at tcd.ie>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 1:25 AM
Subject: [TR] Control head problem found


> Thanks to all on this one, Randall hit the nail on the head, the short 
> tube on
> the control head is not gripping the stator tube, even when fully pressed 
> home... 

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 13:58:02 2007
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 15:58:02 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Color Question
Message-ID: <c5c.1ac03523.344671ca@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/16/2007 10:50:48 AM Mountain Daylight Time,  
Chip19474 at aol.com writes:

I  
have a good photo of the rear of my purchased-new 1969 TR6 that  somehow  
survived 35+ years in hot attic storage.  



How the heck did you get a TR6 into the attic?
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Tue Oct 16 14:04:23 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 21:04:23 +0100
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 - Announcement at
 Triumphest by Glenn Merrell
References: <d53.1730f4d5.344580b1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <012701c8102f$bf246580$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Glenn Merrell  StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes:

> I would  like to hear thoughts and comments on the presentation for
> Triumphs Across  America 2009 Charity Run I made at Triumphest's Awards
> Dinner.
> This is  quite the undertaking by John Macartney and many volunteers on
> both sides  of the pond.

and Jack Mc replied

> I would like to hear what that is all about


Well, Jack - and others, here we go on the second attempt:)

I wrote an obviously rather too long treatise on this forthcoming event 
earlier today. I say *too long* because no copy has come zinging back 
through the ether, so I've either crashed the list server or the post is 
"awaiting moderation."

If anyone wants to know more of the event I'm working on, please write to me 
off-list and I'll do a copy and paste of the material sent earlier today. 
Look forward to hearing your various responses to the concept.

Cheers, Jonmac 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Oct 16 16:27:25 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 22:27:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 to Spitfire: gas tank interchangable?
Message-ID: <101620072227.16249.47153ACD0001083700003F7922165384969C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

> I have just bought a Spitfire (62-70 Mkl-Mklll) fuel tank for only $15 off 
> Ebay. It seems the dimensions are similar to my TR3's tank size. One guy 
> said he thought they were interchangable. Is this true? 
> I had needed to 'JB Weld' some of the fittings on my original that I 
> messed up and I thought this might be a good backup. 

Paul, 
When I disassembled my TR3A wreck...'scuse, restoration project...I took out the gas tank, inspected, cleaned, wire brushed and POR-15'ed it.  Felt pretty smug that I had such a good tank to start with.
Uh oh.
Turns out on reinstall that the tank was a Spitfire tank.  Somebody had juryrigged it to fit but if I recall the sending unit didn't fit right, so the gas gauge couldn't have worked.  
Still have that restored Spit tank.  Have to get rid of it one of these days, along with a bunch of other stuff leftover from restoration.  
Have fun!
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Tue Oct 16 18:18:50 2007
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 17:18:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] rewiring my TR3
Message-ID: <25245C04-757A-4E0E-A568-6DA597A6BD04@cox.net>

I am just getting started rewiring my TR3 with a Dan Master's kit.  I  
have completed the rear lighting system & the gas tank float.  I am  
now beginning the instrument panel.  There are a number of switches  
that have hole in which you insert the wire and then clamp it in  
place with the end of a machine screw.  My question is should one  
solder the end of the wire before clamping it or leave it unsoldered??

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From trbobtr at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 16 19:26:42 2007
From: trbobtr at yahoo.com (Bob Rolfes)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 18:26:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Upper A Arms and used parts
Message-ID: <170090.98676.qm@web90611.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Randall wrote  <"FWIW, my upper arms have been reinforced by "boxing" or welding a
plate
across the open underside.  Not sure how effective it is, but they've
been
on there for a whole lot of hard miles and no signs of cracks.  >
   
  Also FWIW...
   
  I also once had a TR3a upper A-arm break.  I did had a spare later "parts" chassis out back that gave up it's good A-arms for replacement.  After I pulled the good spares off, I found their undersides "boxed" as Randall described.  The parts were all original factory pieces, so it looks like at some point, Triumph realized there was a weakness and decided to reinforce the A-arms.  I am not sure when this occurred, but probably some time after my old TR's 1959 birth date.
   
  Bob
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 16 19:49:41 2007
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 21:49:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] SE VTR THIS WEEKEND AT JEKYLL ISLAND
In-Reply-To: <76398.56847.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <76398.56847.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W11718CA12E9525E6AF1A6ABA9D0@phx.gbl>

Evelyn and I are already at the hotel. See all you folks when you get here:)

Marty Sukey

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last.  Get it
now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971
033

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue Oct 16 20:02:55 2007
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 22:02:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] [6pack] SE VTR THIS WEEKEND AT JEKYLL ISLAND
Message-ID: <c66.1cbff022.3446c74f@cs.com>

Marty,

To those of us that are more unfortunate, throw us a bone with a report once 
in awhile.

I understand Tim Suddard is the featured speaker. I am sure he will have 
something interesting to say.

Joe A


> Evelyn and I are already at the hotel. See all you folks when you get here:)
> 
> Marty Sukey
> 

   </HTML>

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Oct 16 20:22:48 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 22:22:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] rewiring my TR3
References: <25245C04-757A-4E0E-A568-6DA597A6BD04@cox.net>
Message-ID: <002801c81064$9cb12c10$5918e247@DCS78M81>

Solder is going to make a better connection in the long run and 45 years or 
so is a long run>
Tom
61 TR3   all soldered
62 TR4  will be soldered
73 Stag only if I have the time left
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "60TR3A" <60TR3A at cox.net>
To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 8:18 PM
Subject: [TR] rewiring my TR3


>I am just getting started rewiring my TR3 with a Dan Master's kit.  I
> have completed the rear lighting system & the gas tank float.  I am
> now beginning the instrument panel.  There are a number of switches
> that have hole in which you insert the wire and then clamp it in
> place with the end of a machine screw.  My question is should one
> solder the end of the wire before clamping it or leave it unsoldered??
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
> _______________________________________________
> tfansher at comcast.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Oct 16 20:25:55 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 22:25:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] SE VTR THIS WEEKEND AT JEKYLL ISLAND
References: <76398.56847.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<BAY123-W11718CA12E9525E6AF1A6ABA9D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003101c81065$0bfeac00$5918e247@DCS78M81>

Janet and I leave in the morning, Jere Dotten and Bonita in their TR3A and 
me in the 3A and Janet in the Stag.... should be there by 1 PM and have 
lunch at the Jekyll Island Club marina.
Should be a great weekend... fall is finally coming to the Georgia/Florida 
coast.
Tom
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "michael lunsford" <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>; 
"Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] SE VTR THIS WEEKEND AT JEKYLL ISLAND


> Evelyn and I are already at the hotel. See all you folks when you get 
> here:)
>
> Marty Sukey
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last.  Get 
> it
> now.
> http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971
> 033
> _______________________________________________
> tfansher at comcast.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Tue Oct 16 20:32:13 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 20:32:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 SE & Triumph Trans America
Message-ID: <4715742D.6050006@tscusa.org>

To the event planners at VTRSE 2007 - would any of you be willing to 
present the Power Point presentation on the Triumph Trans America 2009 
Charity Run at the Awards Banquet?  The presentation is self 
explanatory, I have it ready to email, and I or John can review it in a 
few minutes on the phone.

Email to stagbytriumph at tscusa.org, Skype to stagbytriumph, or call me at 
303-665-6040 (h) or 303-817-8559 cell.

Thanks!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From banjonut at verizon.net  Tue Oct 16 20:51:50 2007
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 19:51:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Upper A arms
Message-ID: <004501c81068$aacacdc0$6500a8c0@HAMPC>

First, I want to say I appreciate everyone's response, both on and off-list,
about these broken parts.  Your inputs have been most helpful!

The arms that broke actually had some areas boxed in, and it looks like a
factory job, however both breaks occurred near the hole for the ball joint
bolt, in an area where there is no "boxing".  And yes, the spacer was
installed on the bolt, between the arms.   One arm had even been repaired
(welded), and it broke again right at the weld.

Steve

==============

Message: 9
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 18:26:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bob Rolfes <trbobtr at yahoo.com>
Subject: [TR] Upper A Arms and used parts
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <170090.98676.qm at web90611.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Randall wrote  <"FWIW, my upper arms have been reinforced by "boxing" or
welding a
plate
across the open underside.  Not sure how effective it is, but they've
been
on there for a whole lot of hard miles and no signs of cracks.  >

  Also FWIW...

  I also once had a TR3a upper A-arm break.  I did had a spare later "parts"
chassis out back that gave up it's good A-arms for replacement.  After I
pulled the good spares off, I found their undersides "boxed" as Randall
described.  The parts were all original factory pieces, so it looks like at
some point, Triumph realized there was a weakness and decided to reinforce the
A-arms.  I am not sure when this occurred, but probably some time after my old
TR's 1959 birth date.

  Bob

From bbrewer at tvwireless.net  Tue Oct 16 22:03:36 2007
From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 21:03:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR3 H6 Carbs Running Rich
References: <D0580901-9F05-40D0-A00B-56B6B435161A@tvwireless.net>
Message-ID: <04174D24-3440-49F3-BA0F-1BC5FC8CE55A@tvwireless.net>

      Thanks for the help from the list.
      I rechecked the float bowl float level to see if they were  
still at 7/16th like the manual says. Somehow, they were both a tight  
7/16ths. I set them to 1/2 inch float level and the carbs synched  
right up and the old TR runs great.

      Bill Brewer
      Tehachapi, CA


Begin forwarded message:

> From: William Brewer <bbrewer at tvwireless.net>
> Date: October 14, 2007 6:33:34 PM PDT
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: TR3 H6 Carbs Running Rich
>
>      I finally replaced the rear SU on my TR3. It just wouldn't  
> stop leaking gas no matter what I tried (leaking from the float  
> bowl mount, new grommets and bolt didn't help). I used a spare carb  
> I had laying around and rebuilt it with a complete new jet assembly  
> from Moss. Long story short, it runs very rich. I checked the front  
> carb (rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago) and it is also running rich.  
> The plugs have black soot all over them front to rear. At least  
> there are no leaks. The jets are adjusted all the way up and they  
> are still rich. I installed lean needles from Moss and it is still  
> rich.
>      Any advice from the list?
>      I've considered re-adjusting the needles to a lower position  
> using a 1/16 or or 1/8 shim to set it instead of having the  
> shoulder even with the  bottom of the damper. Has anyone else tried  
> this?
>      I live at about the 5,000 feet elevation.
>      What gives?
>
>      Bill Brewer
>      Tehachapi, CA

From bbrewer at tvwireless.net  Tue Oct 16 22:18:16 2007
From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 21:18:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Free TR4 Hood & trunk lid on Craigs List Los Angeles
Message-ID: <F28733A3-BF40-455D-9430-5DD0CD6F5D95@tvwireless.net>

      I just saw this on Craigs List LA. FWIW. NFI. ETC.

      Bill Brewer
      Tehachapi, CA

Free Triumph TR-4 Hood and Trunk Lid

Reply to: see below
Date: 2007-10-12, 6:50AM PDT

Free 1964 TR-4 Hood and Trunk Lid , no hardware - just sheet metal -  
Usual red color

Located in Gardena, call cell # 805 368 0475 to arrange pick-up.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 16 23:16:33 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 22:16:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] rewiring my TR3
In-Reply-To: <25245C04-757A-4E0E-A568-6DA597A6BD04@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20071017051633.YWRZ24626.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> There 
> are a number of switches that have hole in which you insert 
> the wire and then clamp it in place with the end of a machine 
> screw.  My question is should one solder the end of the wire 
> before clamping it or leave it unsoldered??

The original setup was bare copper with no solder.  In that case, I believe
that tinning just the very end with solder (so the solder ends while still
under the screw) will provide a slightly better connection.  But letting the
solder extend farther up the wire (which is difficult not to do) creates a
stress point that is more likely to break the wire over time (and
vibration).

However, if memory serves, the wires in Dan's kit already have the strands
individually tinned (silver color rather than dirty penny color).  In that
case, I believe that adding solder is a bad idea.

Randall

From KingR44916 at aol.com  Wed Oct 17 06:00:02 2007
From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 08:00:02 EDT
Subject: [TR] egr valve
Message-ID: <cbc.1e681a3d.34475342@aol.com>

i have a 76 tr6 how do i know if the egr valve is working and can it be 
debuilt



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct 17 06:54:19 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 08:54:19 EDT
Subject: [TR] egr valve
Message-ID: <cf0.1dc85621.34475ffb@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/17/2007 7:00:30 AM Central Daylight Time, 
KingR44916 at aol.com writes: 
> i have a 76 tr6 how do i know if the egr valve is working and can it be 
> debuilt
> 
You can check movement of the diaghram by feeling the underside of the 
diaghram with your fingers and momentarily revving the engine.  The vacuum is ported 
and there is no vacuum applied with the throttle closed but as you open the 
throttle vacuum will be applied to the diaghram and it will move upward.

Another check is to apply vacuum from a constant source (the vacuum retard 
line for example) to the EGR valve.  The diagram will move and open the valve.  
If the passages are not blocked the engine should start to stumble as the 
exhaust gas is introduced into the idle mixture.

Dave   

From 6parts at charter.net  Wed Oct 17 07:58:15 2007
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 09:58:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] egr valve
References: <cbc.1e681a3d.34475342@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001801c810c5$c4103f60$03d30c47@alan>

Take it off,  it is probably plugged with carbon at the bottom.  If it is , 
WD40 and a small pick will get it out.  Then push on the bottom pin, if its 
working you hear a vacum sound. You'll probably find the connecting tube is 
full of carbon which will need to be cleaned out.

Cheers

Al Salvatore
www.triumphowners.com/624


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <KingR44916 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 8:00 AM
Subject: [TR] egr valve


>i have a 76 tr6 how do i know if the egr valve is working and can it be
> debuilt
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> 6parts at charter.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.13/1075 - Release Date: 
> 10/17/2007 9:38 AM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 17 08:19:10 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 07:19:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Help..TR3 running on 2
In-Reply-To: <20071016085903.UHPOD.1794.root@eastrmwml03.mgt.cox.net>
Message-ID: <20071017141911.MFPF17119.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> Last night  I did a little investigating. While it was idling 
> rough, I pulled the wires off cylinders 3 and 4 with no 
> change. I pulled the plugs and found 3 and 4 clean while 1 
> and 2 were extremely rich....rear carb??? I checked the float 
> bowls, needle valves and pistons on the H6's....all seemed 
> OK.

Does that mean the rear bowl was full of fuel ?  What about throttle
synchronization ?  

If the plugs were clean (not even wet) in cylinders that were not running at
all (as shown by no change when pulling the wires), I think that means there
was no fuel going through them.  I'd also look at valve clearances (which
incidentally also checks that the valves are going up & down as they
should).

Randall

From mmarr at notwires.com  Wed Oct 17 09:29:04 2007
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 10:29:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] egr valve
References: <cf0.1dc85621.34475ffb@cs.com>
Message-ID: <008f01c810d2$7952df70$1db5c84b@mikeslaptop>

> In a message dated 10/17/2007 7:00:30 AM Central Daylight Time, 
> KingR44916 at aol.com writes: 
>> i have a 76 tr6 how do i know if the egr valve is working and can it be 
>> debuilt
>> 
It can be reliably debuilt with a BFH.

Mike

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Oct 17 11:04:55 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 13:04:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Tire size revisited
Message-ID: <20071017130455.AKL11703@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Joe "Fluif" Curry wrote:
> I have not answered your question but I hope I have
> provided foof for thought.

It's good to see you haven't lost your touch, Joe.
--
Jim Muller
'80 Spitfire (white)
'70 GT6+ (red)

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Oct 17 11:35:47 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 10:35:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Tire size revisited
References: <20071017130455.AKL11703@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <005e01c810e4$278d03c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

No, I have not lost my touch nor the old computer that I use for email
during working hours which does not have the capability to do spell
checking!  :)


Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Tire size revisited


> Joe "Fluif" Curry wrote:
> > I have not answered your question but I hope I have
> > provided foof for thought.
>
> It's good to see you haven't lost your touch, Joe.
> --
> Jim Muller
> '80 Spitfire (white)
> '70 GT6+ (red)
> _______________________________________________
> spitlist at cox.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Oct 16 19:13:54 2007
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 21:13:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] rewiring my TR3
In-Reply-To: <25245C04-757A-4E0E-A568-6DA597A6BD04@cox.net>
References: <25245C04-757A-4E0E-A568-6DA597A6BD04@cox.net>
Message-ID: <200710162113.54667.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 16 October 2007 08:18 pm, 60TR3A wrote:
> I am just getting started rewiring my TR3 with a Dan Master's kit.  I
> have completed the rear lighting system & the gas tank float.  I am
> now beginning the instrument panel.  There are a number of switches
> that have hole in which you insert the wire and then clamp it in
> place with the end of a machine screw.  My question is should one
> solder the end of the wire before clamping it or leave it unsoldered??
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
John,

During my 58 restoration way back when, I tinned all wires that attached to a 
switch or in the case of the voltage regulator. It appears to me that the 
solder creates a "softer" seat for the screw plus helps prevent the wires 
from breaking.

It is alot of work but I believe it is worth the effort.

Bob

From kthompson at whoi.edu  Wed Oct 17 12:37:23 2007
From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 14:37:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] rewiring my TR3
Message-ID: <47165663.5080908@whoi.edu>

  I put a dab of solder on the ends of those wires you're talking about. At first, I left them bare. After 2 ends broke off, I ended up soldering them all.What fun it is digging around in back of the TR3 dash panel. I've gotten quite good at removing and reconnecting the  oil pressure line.
  That's quite a wiring kit, eh??
  Cheers,
Kevin T
Cape Cod, Ma.

There 
> are a number of switches that have hole in which you insert 
> the wire and then clamp it in place with the end of a machine 
> screw.  My question is should one solder the end of the wire 
> before clamping it or leave it unsoldered??


The original setup was bare copper with no solder.  In that case, I believe
that tinning just the very end with solder (so the solder ends while still
under the screw) will provide a slightly better connection.  But letting the
solder extend farther up the wire (which is difficult not to do) creates a
stress point that is more likely to break the wire over time (and
vibration).

However, if memory serves, the wires in Dan's kit already have the strands
individually tinned (silver color rather than dirty penny color).  In that
case, I believe that adding solder is a bad idea.

Randall

From rx74evr at mchsi.com  Wed Oct 17 14:40:28 2007
From: rx74evr at mchsi.com (rx74evr at mchsi.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 20:40:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] tr6 spotted in N. Olmstead, Ohio on Porter Rd
Message-ID: <101720072040.7656.4716733C0000F19200001DE8219791336303010CD2079C080C03BF9D900ACBC9989D@mchsi.com>

Hello all!

Was driving around Cleveland area while out here on business and spotted a 
green TR6 project car in a driveway on Porter Rd in North Olmstead,Oh. Is this 
anyones here on the list? I stopped to ask about it, but nobody is home during 
the day. Just wanted to see if anyone here owned it.

Thanks

Paul S

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Oct 17 16:31:12 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 22:31:12 +0000
Subject: [TR] rewiring my TR3
Message-ID: <101720072231.13686.47168D30000DBAE10000357622165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

In addition to what the others said, John, I decided not to solder, but rather to goop the copper with a bit of dielectric.  Get good connection and still reduce the corrosion over time.  Too soon to tell if this works really well, but I don't see why not.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: 60TR3A <60TR3A at cox.net> 

> I am just getting started rewiring my TR3 with a Dan Master's kit. I 
> have completed the rear lighting system & the gas tank float. I am 
> now beginning the instrument panel. There are a number of switches 
> that have hole in which you insert the wire and then clamp it in 
> place with the end of a machine screw. My question is should one 
> solder the end of the wire before clamping it or leave it unsoldered?? 
> 
> Thanks 

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Wed Oct 17 18:06:43 2007
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 17:06:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Owner's Manual pdf
Message-ID: <8BC1D5E7-E214-4DCA-A3D1-C42EF4E44140@cox.net>

I took my original (I believe) owners manual into work to copy the  
page that shows where all switches go on the dash (I am rewiring the  
car).  I did not like leaving the booklet sit on the car & have the  
wind blow it around!  Anyway, while I was at it I made a pdf version  
of the entire document, so I can hide the original away out of harms  
way.

The document is about 3.5 megs & would be happy to send it to anyone  
on the list.

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Wed Oct 17 19:50:44 2007
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 18:50:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphest Pictures and List Members Get Together
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0710171850g7d64b560l4da65bb64309a17c@mail.gmail.com>

Here is a link to over 200 pictures from Triumphest, once the page comes up
click on 2007Tfest, then select a gallery. There are up to 100 different
pics in each gallery, click on the thumnail to see a bigger picture. If you
had a car there you should find at least one picture of it here:
http://www.triumphest.com/?page_id=17

We did have a very informal List get together Thursday evening at 7 PM at
Triumphest. We ended up sitting around on couches in front of the
registration room. Joe A, Uncle Jack, Kennith from Wisconsin (I hope I have
this right as I'm not positive), Joe Curry, John Horton, Jim Bauder, Graham
from the Isle of Wight and myself sat around and swapped stories and
information. We had all been invited to a cocktail party in one on the
penthouses but I for one was enjoying myself way too much to go to that and
it turns out none of us ever made it upstairs for it. Joe gave us an update
on the car project and was even nice enough to go get the latest pictures of
the progress for us to see. I found out Uncle Jack had spent a night in my
hometown of Whitewater WI years ago during a long bicycle trip and stayed at
someones home he didn't know because there were no hotel rooms for 50
miles.  Graham and Kennith(?) discovered they had met once in Europe at an
event. The most surprising story involved a goat but that's all I'm saying
about it and I'm going to leave you all wondering what it was as punishment
for not being there!

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Oct 17 20:45:52 2007
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 22:45:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumphest Pictures and List Members Get Together
Message-ID: <cfd.1d83e942.344822e0@cs.com>

> The most surprising story involved a goat but that's all I'm saying
> about it and I'm going to leave you all wondering what it was as punishment
> for not being there!
> 
> Marty Clark
> 

SHHHH! What Happens in Laughlin, Stays in Laughlin!    Joe A

great evening btw!!   </HTML>

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Wed Oct 17 20:47:38 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 20:47:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumphest Pictures and List Members Get Together
In-Reply-To: <df0e1f1e0710171850g7d64b560l4da65bb64309a17c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <df0e1f1e0710171850g7d64b560l4da65bb64309a17c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4716C94A.4030302@tscusa.org>

Marty Clark wrote:
> Here is a link to over 200 pictures from Triumphest, once the page comes up
> click on 2007Tfest, then select a gallery. There are up to 100 different
> pics in each gallery, 
Great Marty!!  Thanks for the photos.  It was nice to put a face to a 
name on the list, although for the Triumph List gathering about 8 of us 
were quaffing beers and grub at the Boiler Room Brew Pub in the Colorado 
Belle.

After that it was engaging Triumph conversation up in the Penthouse till 
about midnight, watch the Rockies sweep the Diamond Backs!@!, ya'll 
should have come up!

Thanks again1

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Oct 17 20:49:40 2007
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 22:49:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumphest Pictures and List Members Get Together
Message-ID: <ceb.1e3e6a9d.344823c4@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/17/2007 8:50:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
marty.tr6 at gmail.com writes:


>  Joe A, Uncle Jack, Kennith from Wisconsin (I hope I have
> this right as I'm not positive), 

That was Kent Howard....he has an original TR4A that he bought from Augie 
Papst. HE DRIVES IT!  It has been to England and Kent & I drove it to another 
Triumphest near San Francisco. We flew this time.                Joe A   </HTML>

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Wed Oct 17 21:54:41 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 21:54:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumphest Pictures and List Members Get Together
In-Reply-To: <ceb.1e3e6a9d.344823c4@cs.com>
References: <ceb.1e3e6a9d.344823c4@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4716D901.4060100@tscusa.org>

N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/17/2007 8:50:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> marty.tr6 at gmail.com writes
>   
>>  Joe A, Uncle Jack, Kennith from Wisconsin (I hope I have
>> this right as I'm not positive), 
>>     
>
> That was Kent Howard....he has an original TR4A that he bought from Augie 
> Papst. HE DRIVES IT!  It has been to England and Kent & I drove it to another 
> Triumphest near San Francisco. We flew this time.                Joe A   
I am pissed that I missed Kent at Triumphest.
When Kent and Carol shipped their TR4 over to England, it was for 
T.I.M.E. at Mallory Park.  Kent and Carol then met with my son and I 
driving a UK members loaned Stag (thanks again Steve and Susan!!) at the 
Half Penny Inn in Warwick UK, then caravaning with Mike and Betty Wattam 
with their Stag to Portsmouth to take the ferry to Le Havre, 
Seine-Maritime France, drive to Chbteau de Versailles , Claude Monet's 
House and Garden, Giverny, Semur-en-Auxois for a B&B hotel vineyard, 
then through Geneva to Martingny Switzerland for the European Stag Meet 
2000.  Kent's TR4 was the only TR4 amongst about 120 Triumph Stags.  
Howards took a different route up to Normandy while Wattams and us made 
our way back to Paris for another day at several museums including the 
Louvre, then dinner in the Eiffel Tower.  My son and I were in England, 
Ireland, France and Switzerland for 28 days driving a Stag.  Oooooh 
Yeah, quite the epic trip it was, simply epic.

Kent and Carol, thanks for those travels!!

I hope to do it again in 2010 when the Stag turns 40!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 17 22:19:35 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 21:19:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Owner's Manual pdf
In-Reply-To: <8BC1D5E7-E214-4DCA-A3D1-C42EF4E44140@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20071018041935.WJPN17119.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> Anyway, while I 
> was at it I made a pdf version of the entire document, so I 
> can hide the original away out of harms way.
> 
> The document is about 3.5 megs & would be happy to send it to 
> anyone on the list.

Do you happen to know which edition, John ?  I'd like a copy anyway, please.

Also, I have the PDF of the entire Bentley that was done by Dan Buettner
some years ago, including what I think may be the 2nd edition of the owner's
manual/driver's handbook.  I can extract just the driver's manual if anyone
wants it, around 2 Mb.

However, I'll be off-line for the next week or so, so please be patient.

Randall

From tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org  Thu Oct 18 09:08:05 2007
From: tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org (Terry Geiger)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 10:08:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Owner's Manual pdf
References: <8BC1D5E7-E214-4DCA-A3D1-C42EF4E44140@cox.net>
Message-ID: <006701c81198$af76d180$6500a8c0@aitinc.local>

I put this document out on our club web site so anyone that wants it can 
grab a copy.

http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/technical/technical.htm

Enjoy,

Terry Geiger
'74 Triumph TR6 | '63 Triumph Herald | '70 MGBGT | '84 Mercedes 300D Diesel
http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "60TR3A" <60TR3A at cox.net>
To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 7:06 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Owner's Manual pdf


>I took my original (I believe) owners manual into work to copy the
> page that shows where all switches go on the dash (I am rewiring the
> car).  I did not like leaving the booklet sit on the car & have the
> wind blow it around!  Anyway, while I was at it I made a pdf version
> of the entire document, so I can hide the original away out of harms
> way.
>
> The document is about 3.5 megs & would be happy to send it to anyone
> on the list.
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
> _______________________________________________

From KingR44916 at aol.com  Thu Oct 18 10:55:33 2007
From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 12:55:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] valve job
Message-ID: <c45.2352b3bd.3448ea05@aol.com>

i have a 76 tr6 and just took off the head to do a valve job of course not to 
my suprise the pistons are loaded with carbon what is the best way to clean 
them 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From dbh at hamengr.com  Thu Oct 18 11:48:13 2007
From: dbh at hamengr.com (Dave B. Hammond)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 10:48:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] valve job
References: <c45.2352b3bd.3448ea05@aol.com>
Message-ID: <030b01c811af$0e6b6f50$6601a8c0@DBH>

When I was at Triumphest, I noticed that a number of TR6's has a ss radiator 
shroud. Can anyone direct me to the source for these?

David B. Hammond,TR6

From mrm at clking.com  Thu Oct 18 11:51:43 2007
From: mrm at clking.com (Mitch R. Meisler)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 13:51:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] valve job
In-Reply-To: <030b01c811af$0e6b6f50$6601a8c0@DBH>
References: <c45.2352b3bd.3448ea05@aol.com>
	<030b01c811af$0e6b6f50$6601a8c0@DBH>
Message-ID: <30E72F324648024B956BC3B3C1CF9B24013192FC@clking01exc02.clkingw2k.local>

goodparts.com


Mitch Meisler
Managing Director, Institutional Sales
CL King & Associates
410 Park Avenue, 16th floor
New York, NY 10022
212-572-3633-work
518-528-2263-cell
AOL IM = MEISLERCLKA
E-MAIL = mrm at clking.com

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Dave B. Hammond
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 1:48 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] valve job

When I was at Triumphest, I noticed that a number of TR6's has a ss
radiator shroud. Can anyone direct me to the source for these?

David B. Hammond,TR6
_______________________________________________
mrm at clking.com

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

______________________________________________________________________
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For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
______________________________________________________________________

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Oct 18 14:14:12 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 16:14:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] valve job
In-Reply-To: <030b01c811af$0e6b6f50$6601a8c0@DBH>
References: <c45.2352b3bd.3448ea05@aol.com>
	<030b01c811af$0e6b6f50$6601a8c0@DBH>
Message-ID: <002c01c811c3$75086b00$210110ac@bobspc>

David,
There's a few different sources for the shroud including Richard Good
(http://www.goodparts.com/) and Francois Faucher (http://tinyurl.com/368hsg)



Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dave B. Hammond
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 1:48 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] valve job

When I was at Triumphest, I noticed that a number of TR6's has a ss radiator
shroud. Can anyone direct me to the source for these?

David B. Hammond,TR6
_______________________________________________
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.0/1076 - Release Date: 10/17/2007
7:53 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.0/1076 - Release Date: 10/17/2007
7:53 PM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Oct 18 14:35:27 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 16:35:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Horn Works on its own
Message-ID: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc>

Today I'm at a stop sign and as I start to turn left I hear a horn blaring
at me so I stop and look around and it's still blasting away..............uh
oh............it's my car's horn going off. Go straight, it's quiet, turn
right or left and it comes on. Pull over pull the fuse and I'm on my way,
but I can hear something scrapping inside the hub as I turn the wheel. This
is a Grant wheel and hub that I've had on the car for about 8 years. I pull
it all apart and find a spring lying inside the adapter next to the TR6
copper horn contact ring. There's also a pile of copper shavings in there.
On the Grant adapter there's a copper rod that passes through the adapter,
held in place by the spring and makes steady contact with the ring. I called
Grant and actually talked to one of their engineer/designers who said it
sounded as if the cap on the copper rod that holds the spring in place had
worn down allowing the spring to fall off. He then asked me what I had used
for lube when I did the installation. Lube? I'm looking at the instructions
and tell him that there's no mention of lubing this part. Pregnant pause on
his part followed by...."anytime you have metal to metal contact of moving
parts you need some type of lube".... point taken. He was a real nice guy
who actually called back within 5 minutes of me leaving him a message.
Unfortunately these hubs are out of their Italy plant so he has to contact
them for a replacement part. In the meantime, I'm thinking of fabricating
something to hold the spring in place until I can get the replacement part. 
 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.0/1076 - Release Date: 10/17/2007
7:53 PM

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Oct 18 14:45:05 2007
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 16:45:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Horn Works on its own
In-Reply-To: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0710181641270.19338@ankh.mit.edu>

Hi,

If it makes you feel any better, I have exactly the same situation with my 
Grant steering wheel adapter.

I gave up and installed a universal horn button and wired it directly to 
the horn relay. No more intermittent horn!

I also carried a 1-1/16" socket around for a while "just in case" I had to 
pull the steering wheel offto unjam the thingie in the Grant adapter.

I presumed that a replacement part implies that you have to get a new 
adapter (good luck getting the old thingie out of the adapter, it's 
pressed in quite nicely!). We're most interested to hear the outcome of 
your situation.

Do you have the 14" wheel? I have the 13" so I can turn-in quicker. Lots 
of fun on race tires! I like it som much, I have the same wheel on both 
TR6's!

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Room N42-140Q            |  This space for rent
Consultant            MIT IS&T unix-linux-help |
Voice:617-253-7438    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Thu Oct 18 16:13:10 2007
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 15:13:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] "TR3 Owner's Manual pdf" on the Web
Message-ID: <F42CF78F-E29F-4FB7-A8FB-EC79AF9D857D@cox.net>

Marty Clark has posted the pdf of the TR3 "Owners Manual" on DCTRA  
web site.  It is available for download at

http://www.dctra.org/files/owners_manual_-TR3.pdf

Terry Geiger also posted it on his club's website where it is also  
available for download at

http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/technical/technical.htm

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Thu Oct 18 16:43:20 2007
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 00:43:20 +0200
Subject: [TR] Horn Works on its own
References: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <008301c811d8$48eb7de0$0500a8c0@Study>

If your horn button setup is the same as my 4A I did the following years ago 
and it still works fine. Also very economical.
I found a plastic ball point pen of the same diameter as the original 
contacting cylinder and cut the  barrel to the same length. I also found 
that the centre electrodes of a used dry battery, can't remember the size, 
were just right to fit inside the ball pen. Then fitting the spring from the 
same ball point in between two small lengths of carbon electrode made an 
externally insulated cylinder of the right size to make the contact between 
the brass lug on the horn button and the copper slip ring inside the 
steering wheel boss.
Hope this makes sense!

David Brister
1967 TR4A 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Oct 18 16:50:51 2007
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 18:50:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Horn Works on its own
In-Reply-To: <008301c811d8$48eb7de0$0500a8c0@Study>
References: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc>
	<008301c811d8$48eb7de0$0500a8c0@Study>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770710181550v43c6f4eapd3657c65c7667810@mail.gmail.com>

When at the autocross my TR4 honks at nearly every right turn.....

I love it!!!

I'm sure there is a bushing worn out somewhere....

Sure wish I was at SEVTR....

On 10/18/07, David Brister <david.brister at wanadoo.fr> wrote:
>
> If your horn button setup is the same as my 4A I did the following years
> ago
> and it still works fine. Also very economical.
> I found a plastic ball point pen of the same diameter as the original
> contacting cylinder and cut the  barrel to the same length. I also found
> that the centre electrodes of a used dry battery, can't remember the size,
> were just right to fit inside the ball pen. Then fitting the spring from
> the
> same ball point in between two small lengths of carbon electrode made an
> externally insulated cylinder of the right size to make the contact
> between
> the brass lug on the horn button and the copper slip ring inside the
> steering wheel boss.
> Hope this makes sense!
>
> David Brister
> 1967 TR4A
>
> _______________________________________________
> ccsimonsen at gmail.com
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Oct 18 17:20:55 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 19:20:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Horn Works on its own
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0710181641270.19338@ankh.mit.edu>
References: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0710181641270.19338@ankh.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <004301c811dd$8b24d2b0$210110ac@bobspc>

Bob,
The copper rod (technical term....thingie) just came right out with no
problem. There's a plastic grommet in the adapter that the rod passes
through. The spring then held tension on the rod for good contact with the
horn ring on the column. I'm going to try a temporary fix by drilling a
small hole through the rod and inserting a pin to hold the spring.

I'll let you know what happens. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Lang [mailto:lang at isis.mit.edu] 
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 4:45 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack List Serve'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Horn Works on its own

Hi,

If it makes you feel any better, I have exactly the same situation with my
Grant steering wheel adapter.

I gave up and installed a universal horn button and wired it directly to the
horn relay. No more intermittent horn!

I also carried a 1-1/16" socket around for a while "just in case" I had to
pull the steering wheel offto unjam the thingie in the Grant adapter.

I presumed that a replacement part implies that you have to get a new
adapter (good luck getting the old thingie out of the adapter, it's pressed
in quite nicely!). We're most interested to hear the outcome of your
situation.

Do you have the 14" wheel? I have the 13" so I can turn-in quicker. Lots of
fun on race tires! I like it som much, I have the same wheel on both TR6's!

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Room N42-140Q            |  This space for rent
Consultant            MIT IS&T unix-linux-help |
Voice:617-253-7438    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.0/1076 - Release Date: 10/17/2007
7:53 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.0/1076 - Release Date: 10/17/2007
7:53 PM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Oct 18 17:22:22 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 19:22:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Horn Works on its own
In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770710181550v43c6f4eapd3657c65c7667810@mail.gmail.com>
References: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc><008301c811d8$48eb7de0$0500a8c0@Study>
	<6fa72a770710181550v43c6f4eapd3657c65c7667810@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004401c811dd$bf6ff810$210110ac@bobspc>

There was someone at VTR this summer who's car honked during tight turns at
auto-cross. Was that you?

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Chris Simonsen
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 6:51 PM
To: David Brister
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; Bob Danielson
Subject: Re: [TR] Horn Works on its own

When at the autocross my TR4 honks at nearly every right turn.....

I love it!!!

I'm sure there is a bushing worn out somewhere....

Sure wish I was at SEVTR....

On 10/18/07, David Brister <david.brister at wanadoo.fr> wrote:
>
> If your horn button setup is the same as my 4A I did the following 
> years ago and it still works fine. Also very economical.
> I found a plastic ball point pen of the same diameter as the original 
> contacting cylinder and cut the  barrel to the same length. I also 
> found that the centre electrodes of a used dry battery, can't remember 
> the size, were just right to fit inside the ball pen. Then fitting the 
> spring from the same ball point in between two small lengths of carbon 
> electrode made an externally insulated cylinder of the right size to 
> make the contact between the brass lug on the horn button and the 
> copper slip ring inside the steering wheel boss.
> Hope this makes sense!
>
> David Brister
> 1967 TR4A
>
> _______________________________________________
> ccsimonsen at gmail.com
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
_______________________________________________
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.0/1076 - Release Date: 10/17/2007
7:53 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.0/1076 - Release Date: 10/17/2007
7:53 PM

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Thu Oct 18 17:29:23 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 17:29:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] Horn Works on its own
In-Reply-To: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <4717EC53.5090809@tscusa.org>

Bob Danielson wrote:
> Today I'm at a stop sign and as I start to turn left I hear a horn blaring
> at me so I stop and look around and it's still blasting away..............uh
> oh............it's my car's horn going off.
>   
It seems to me that when my horn stopped working on my Heralds and 
TR250, the contact between the steering column ring to horn button push 
was carbon brushes in between a spring inside a plastic tube, no 
lubrication required, and the carbon brushes had simply worn out or the 
slip ring was gunked up.  No copper to copper or brass to brass contacts.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From bbrewer at tvwireless.net  Thu Oct 18 18:14:58 2007
From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 17:14:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tachometer Cable Length
Message-ID: <FDBFBFC4-67D8-4DB4-845A-91D2B73872AD@tvwireless.net>

      I am fitting a new MOSS tachometer cable in the TR3. How far  
into the tachometer drive below the distributer should the cable go?  
Mine only goes about 1/4 inch. I am thinking that it should go  
farther in and perhaps I have a broken piece stuck in mine. Can  
someone tell me how far it goes in? ISTR last time I did this I ended  
up shortening the  cable with a hack saw.
     If I do have a broken cable, is there a way to push it out from  
behind?
      TIA,

      Bill Brewer
      Tehachapi, CA

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 19 05:40:07 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 11:40:07 +0000
Subject: [TR] Horn Works on its own
In-Reply-To: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W314157EBA7A718502B9C82E59F0@phx.gbl>

Hi Bob,

The problem may not be the contact rod in the steering hub.  This problem os
common to TRs.  It is caused by the turn signal cam coming into close
proximity with the horn contact ring.

To cure the problem remove the turn signal housing and switch.  With a pair of
pliers remove the turn signal cam from the steering shaft.  Then cut half the
distance from the top end of the cam to the locating dimple off of the cam.
Reinstall and you problem is gone.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 16:35:27 -0400
> Subject: [TR] Horn Works on its own
>
> Today I'm at a stop sign and as I start to turn left I hear a horn blaring
> at me so I stop and look around and it's still blasting
away..............uh
> oh............it's my car's horn going off. Go straight, it's quiet, turn
> right or left and it comes on. Pull over pull the fuse and I'm on my way,
> but I can hear something scrapping inside the hub as I turn the wheel. This
> is a Grant wheel and hub that I've had on the car for about 8 years. I pull
> it all apart and find a spring lying inside the adapter next to the TR6
> copper horn contact ring. There's also a pile of copper shavings in there.
> On the Grant adapter there's a copper rod that passes through the adapter,
> held in place by the spring and makes steady contact with the ring. I
called
> Grant and actually talked to one of their engineer/designers who said it
> sounded as if the cap on the copper rod that holds the spring in place had
> worn down allowing the spring to fall off. He then asked me what I had used
> for lube when I did the installation. Lube? I'm looking at the instructions
> and tell him that there's no mention of lubing this part. Pregnant pause on
> his part followed by...."anytime you have metal to metal contact of moving
> parts you need some type of lube".... point taken. He was a real nice guy
> who actually called back within 5 minutes of me leaving him a message.
> Unfortunately these hubs are out of their Italy plant so he has to contact
> them for a replacement part. In the meantime, I'm thinking of fabricating
> something to hold the spring in place until I can get the replacement part.
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.0/1076 - Release Date: 10/17/2007
> 7:53 PM

_________________________________________________________________
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare!
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ws

From spamiam at comcast.net  Fri Oct 19 06:10:43 2007
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 08:10:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Horn Works on its own
Message-ID: <001a01c81249$13de56b0$6401a8c0@p4server>

I once replaced the thing with a tube from a Bic pen and the original spring,
and a ball bearing or 2.  I had to do some sanding of areas to get everything
to fit.

Of course, the alternative is to leave it out with the horn disabled until the
new one arrives.

-Tony

From trglory at comcast.net  Fri Oct 19 07:27:13 2007
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 09:27:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Horn Works on its own
In-Reply-To: <004301c811dd$8b24d2b0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <002d01c811c6$75077940$210110ac@bobspc>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0710181641270.19338@ankh.mit.edu>
	<004301c811dd$8b24d2b0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <002201c81253$c2c58810$48509830$@net>

Bob;

It may take a while to get the part from La Bella Italia. In the meantime,
every time you turn a corner, just wave at someone.

Joe Laurito
Central PA Triumph Club

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bob Danielson
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 7:21 PM
To: 'Robert Lang'
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack List Serve'
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Horn Works on its own

Bob,
The copper rod (technical term....thingie) just came right out with no
problem. There's a plastic grommet in the adapter that the rod passes
through. The spring then held tension on the rod for good contact with the
horn ring on the column. I'm going to try a temporary fix by drilling a
small hole through the rod and inserting a pin to hold the spring.

I'll let you know what happens. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Lang [mailto:lang at isis.mit.edu]
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 4:45 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack List Serve'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Horn Works on its own

Hi,

If it makes you feel any better, I have exactly the same situation with my
Grant steering wheel adapter.

I gave up and installed a universal horn button and wired it directly to the
horn relay. No more intermittent horn!

I also carried a 1-1/16" socket around for a while "just in case" I had to
pull the steering wheel offto unjam the thingie in the Grant adapter.

I presumed that a replacement part implies that you have to get a new
adapter (good luck getting the old thingie out of the adapter, it's pressed
in quite nicely!). We're most interested to hear the outcome of your
situation.

Do you have the 14" wheel? I have the 13" so I can turn-in quicker. Lots of
fun on race tires! I like it som much, I have the same wheel on both TR6's!

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Room N42-140Q            |  This space for rent
Consultant            MIT IS&T unix-linux-help |
Voice:617-253-7438    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

  

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.1/1078 - Release Date: 10/18/2007
5:47 PM

From billtr4 at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 19 09:14:41 2007
From: billtr4 at hotmail.com (bill schuld)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 10:14:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Horn Works on its own
In-Reply-To: <4717EC53.5090809@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <BAY127-F29165B17CB43B711E154DAF69F0@phx.gbl>

Just had a similar problem on my 4.  afterworking on steering column setup 
for hours, found the grounding strap on the steering column nuckle under the 
hood was broken and would short to ground on turns. replaced strap and now 
works better than new  Bill


>From: "Glenn A. Merrell" <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
>Reply-To: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org
>To: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>,   
>triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [TR] Horn Works on its own
>Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 17:29:23 -0600
>
>Bob Danielson wrote:
>>Today I'm at a stop sign and as I start to turn left I hear a horn blaring
>>at me so I stop and look around and it's still blasting 
>>away..............uh
>>oh............it's my car's horn going off.
>>
>It seems to me that when my horn stopped working on my Heralds and TR250, 
>the contact between the steering column ring to horn button push was carbon 
>brushes in between a spring inside a plastic tube, no lubrication required, 
>and the carbon brushes had simply worn out or the slip ring was gunked up.  
>No copper to copper or brass to brass contacts.
>
>--
>Glenn A. Merrell
>Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
>The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead 
>bugs on the windshield!


>_______________________________________________
>billtr4 at hotmail.com
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>Triumphs mailing list
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star 
power. 
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_hotmailtextlink2_oct

From billtr4 at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 19 09:14:41 2007
From: billtr4 at hotmail.com (bill schuld)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 10:14:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Horn Works on its own
In-Reply-To: <4717EC53.5090809@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <BAY127-F29165B17CB43B711E154DAF69F0@phx.gbl>

Just had a similar problem on my 4.  afterworking on steering column setup 
for hours, found the grounding strap on the steering column nuckle under the 
hood was broken and would short to ground on turns. replaced strap and now 
works better than new  Bill


>From: "Glenn A. Merrell" <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
>Reply-To: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org
>To: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>,   
>triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [TR] Horn Works on its own
>Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 17:29:23 -0600
>
>Bob Danielson wrote:
>>Today I'm at a stop sign and as I start to turn left I hear a horn blaring
>>at me so I stop and look around and it's still blasting 
>>away..............uh
>>oh............it's my car's horn going off.
>>
>It seems to me that when my horn stopped working on my Heralds and TR250, 
>the contact between the steering column ring to horn button push was carbon 
>brushes in between a spring inside a plastic tube, no lubrication required, 
>and the carbon brushes had simply worn out or the slip ring was gunked up.  
>No copper to copper or brass to brass contacts.
>
>--
>Glenn A. Merrell
>Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
>The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead 
>bugs on the windshield!


>_______________________________________________
>billtr4 at hotmail.com
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>Triumphs mailing list
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star 
power. 
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_hotmailtextlink2_oct

From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu  Fri Oct 19 09:52:55 2007
From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 11:52:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Head gasket TR4A
Message-ID: <OF6F753637.1ED84463-ON85257379.0056386C-85257379.00573E0F@notes.duke.edu>

   Well  I  have  decided to try a thicker head gasket to help reduce the
   compression  on  my  65 TR4A. Also will try gasoline additive to boost
   octane.   Anyone  have any ideas on obtaining such a gasket similar to
   Moss  690-000  but  for  less  money?    I have a hard time justifying
   $105.00 at this time. Thanks all,
   Arnold S. Gilmour

From darrellw at ipns.com  Fri Oct 19 09:57:27 2007
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 08:57:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Head gasket TR4A
In-Reply-To: <OF6F753637.1ED84463-ON85257379.0056386C-85257379.00573E0F@notes.duke.edu>
References: <OF6F753637.1ED84463-ON85257379.0056386C-85257379.00573E0F@notes.duke.edu>
Message-ID: <239EDFD1-FB65-4D4D-983F-B21B41648629@ipns.com>

Gasketworks can supply solid copper gaskets in various thicknesses, I  
believe they run about $85:

http://www.headgasket.com/index.html

Maybe you could install two gaskets?

-Darrell

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri Oct 19 13:05:04 2007
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 12:05:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan removal problem
Message-ID: <5D030ACB-AF2E-4312-B756-837D51FB8675@cox.net>

I am attempting to remove the shaft to which the radiator fan  
mounts.  I plan to only go with the electric fan.  I got the fan off  
the shaft, no problem.  I have removed the 6 nuts that I thought held  
the shaft but the shaft does not budge.  I have given it several taps  
with a hammer but nothing has moved or even loosened up.

Any suggestions??

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From James.Olson at Kofc.Org  Fri Oct 19 13:10:47 2007
From: James.Olson at Kofc.Org (James.Olson at Kofc.Org)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 15:10:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office.
Message-ID: <OFB7555F9F.2FB04EF8-ON85257379.00695BB9-85257379.00695BB9@kofc.org>

I will be out of the office starting  10/19/2007 and will not return until
10/22/2007.




CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message and any attachments may contain confidential, proprietary or legally privileged information and is intended only for the use of the addressee or addressees named above for its intended purpose.  If you are not the intended recipient of this message, this message constitutes notice that any review, retransmission, distribution, copying or other use or taking any action in reliance on the information in this message and its attachments, is prohibited.  If you receive this communication in error, please immediately advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete this message and its attachments from your system without keeping a copy.  Unless expressly stated in this e-mail, nothing in this message may be construed as a digital or electronic signature.  Thank you.

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Fri Oct 19 13:27:31 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 12:27:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office.
In-Reply-To: <OFB7555F9F.2FB04EF8-ON85257379.00695BB9-85257379.00695BB9@kofc.org>
References: <OFB7555F9F.2FB04EF8-ON85257379.00695BB9-85257379.00695BB9@kofc.org>
Message-ID: <A2A1A2F521F84F828BFACA5B30625398@GeoPC>

Once again, we have been 'Olsoned'.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <James.Olson at Kofc.Org>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 12:10 PM
Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office.


>I will be out of the office starting  10/19/2007 and will not return until
> 10/22/2007.

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 19 13:35:08 2007
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 12:35:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office.
In-Reply-To: <OFB7555F9F.2FB04EF8-ON85257379.00695BB9-85257379.00695BB9@kofc.org>
Message-ID: <517643.12280.qm@web81711.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Oh no!  An entire weekend without James S. Olson?  How
will we survive?


--- James.Olson at Kofc.Org wrote:

> I will be out of the office starting  10/19/2007 and
> will not return until
> 10/22/2007.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message and any
> attachments may contain confidential, proprietary or
> legally privileged information and is intended only
> for the use of the addressee or addressees named
> above for its intended purpose.  If you are not the
> intended recipient of this message, this message
> constitutes notice that any review, retransmission,
> distribution, copying or other use or taking any
> action in reliance on the information in this
> message and its attachments, is prohibited.  If you
> receive this communication in error, please
> immediately advise the sender by reply e-mail and
> delete this message and its attachments from your
> system without keeping a copy.  Unless expressly
> stated in this e-mail, nothing in this message may
> be construed as a digital or electronic signature. 
> Thank you.
> _______________________________________________
> kajohns64 at yahoo.com
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Oct 19 17:28:21 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 23:28:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tachometer Cable Length
Message-ID: <101920072328.21058.47193D94000E56890000524222165384969C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

> I am fitting a new MOSS tachometer cable in the TR3. How far 
> into the tachometer drive below the distributer should the cable go? 
> Mine only goes about 1/4 inch. I am thinking that it should go 
> farther in and perhaps I have a broken piece stuck in mine. Can 
> someone tell me how far it goes in? ISTR last time I did this I ended 
> up shortening the cable with a hack saw. 
> If I do have a broken cable, is there a way to push it out from 
> behind? 
> Bill Brewer 

Hi, Bill.  Mo-Ma, who does gauge rebuilding, carefully and clearly warns that you want to snip the cable off to 1/4 inch before inserting into either the tach or speedometer.  Reason is, the extra length does disaster inside.  Because these cables are made of individual strands of wire, I used a bench grinder to shorten.  

If you do have something stuck inside, you might try a magnet.  

Have fun!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From darrellw at ipns.com  Fri Oct 19 22:36:23 2007
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 21:36:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Grinding aluminum
Message-ID: <7701E054-4CA5-47D3-8DB5-E799BA62DD4D@ipns.com>

Quick update on my DCOE project, I purchase a new set of intake  
manifolds, Cannon instead of TWM, and the fit is much better.  I'll  
be able to use my existing header without any modifications.

But now I want to do a bit of port matching between the intakes and  
the carbs.  What is the proper way to grind aluminum?  It always  
seems to load up the stone/paper/whatever.

Thanks,
Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Fri Oct 19 23:40:32 2007
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 01:40:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Grinding aluminum
In-Reply-To: <7701E054-4CA5-47D3-8DB5-E799BA62DD4D@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCOEFAFAAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>

Darrel,

I use a high speed die grinder and find that an egg shaped burr is good for
general aluminum work. To prevent galling use machining wax that comes in a
tube that looks like a grease gun cartridge. You could probably substitute
bee's wax. Go real easy and keep a very tight grip on the grinder!

Rick Patton
http://sidedrafttbi.com/


> -----Original Message-----
> Behalf Of Darrell Walker
> Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 12:36 AM
> To: Triumphs List
> Subject: [TR] Grinding aluminum
>
>
> Quick update on my DCOE project, I purchase a new set of intake
> manifolds, Cannon instead of TWM, and the fit is much better.  I'll
> be able to use my existing header without any modifications.
>
> But now I want to do a bit of port matching between the intakes and
> the carbs.  What is the proper way to grind aluminum?  It always
> seems to load up the stone/paper/whatever.
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 19 23:50:48 2007
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 22:50:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Grinding aluminum
In-Reply-To: <7701E054-4CA5-47D3-8DB5-E799BA62DD4D@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <339551.54040.qm@web81715.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If you can slow down the speed of your grinder or
grind a little at a time, so as you are doing more
grinding of the metal and less melting of the metal

--- Darrell Walker <darrellw at ipns.com> wrote:

> Quick update on my DCOE project, I purchase a new
> set of intake  
> manifolds, Cannon instead of TWM, and the fit is
> much better.  I'll  
> be able to use my existing header without any
> modifications.
> 
> But now I want to do a bit of port matching between
> the intakes and  
> the carbs.  What is the proper way to grind
> aluminum?  It always  
> seems to load up the stone/paper/whatever.
> 
> Thanks,
> Darrell
> 
> -- 
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
> Vancouver, WA, USA
> _______________________________________________
> kajohns64 at yahoo.com
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 19 23:57:23 2007
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 22:57:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Moving up the British ladder.
Message-ID: <810996.81728.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'm close to buying an XJS.  As an addition, not a
replacement for my TR6, heaven forbid.  Does anyone
know a website/email list as good as this Triumph list
for Jags?  
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From paradise.71 at juno.com  Sat Oct 20 08:03:53 2007
From: paradise.71 at juno.com (Paradise Music)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 14:03:53 GMT
Subject: [TR] Moving up the British ladder.
Message-ID: <20071020.070353.7596.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com>

Try www.scionsoflucas.com, they have all the Brit car lists there.  Good
luck!
Bryan

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Sat Oct 20 08:24:13 2007
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 07:24:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Moving up the British ladder.
In-Reply-To: <810996.81728.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <810996.81728.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <471A0F8D.3080906@razzolink.com>

Kurt Johnson wrote:
> I'm close to buying an XJS.  

Ah you must of come into a lot of money.  Congratulations!

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 09:54:44 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 11:54:44 EDT
Subject: [TR] Moving up the British ladder.
Message-ID: <d56.ee7248b.344b7ec4@aol.com>

www.jag-lovers.org



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 20 10:11:38 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 16:11:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] Moving up the British ladder.
In-Reply-To: <810996.81728.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <810996.81728.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W33769AE288B2D6441276A5E5980@phx.gbl>

I have been considering the same thing.  I have turned down three of them thus
far for condition problems.

I have subscribed to:

v12-engine at jag-lovers.org

This list is all about the problems and fixes for the v12 engine.  On the jag
lovers web site www.jag-lovers.org there is a free book.  This book is an
accumulation of problems and fixes from the engine list.  The book is 736
pages long.

The problem with the v12 jag is that most of the problems that occur are
electrical.  There are more sensors and gadgets than you can imagine.  Not
being a whiz at electronics I am reconsidering my decision.

Best regards,
Tom



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From jgillis at tcd.ie  Sat Oct 20 10:21:45 2007
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 17:21:45 +0100
Subject: [TR] Battery in and Q
Message-ID: <54042151-CD96-463A-B16A-FC3C1E283B9A@tcd.ie>

Big day for me today, bought a battery and fed some juice through the  
wires for the first time in 11 years, and now of course I have a  
question; all seems to work fine, lights, wiper, panel, horn etc.. I  
even turned the motor over briefly (no fuel in yet, that's another  
day). I did notice I had no ignition light on the dash and the  
ignition switch getting warm, I traced this to the yellow wire from  
the ignition light back to the control box, which in turn was being  
warmed up by the thicker yellow going back to the dynamo, the back of  
the dynamo itself was a little warm. I polorized the dynamo by  
flashing the yellow/green wire off the neg. on the battery (I am  
using pos. earth) but this made no difference and with the ignition  
turned on the the thicker yellow was still warming up as was the  
thinner yellow to the ignition light.  I fit an earth supply to the  
back of the ignition light even though there does not appear to be  
one on the wiring diagram. The ignition light now comes on.
Less of a worry is the fuel gauge which shows full, switching the  
wires made no difference, the tank is empty
Looking forward to list wisdom
Regards
John
1954 TR2

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sat Oct 20 10:40:52 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 09:40:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Battery in and Q
In-Reply-To: <54042151-CD96-463A-B16A-FC3C1E283B9A@tcd.ie>
References: <54042151-CD96-463A-B16A-FC3C1E283B9A@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <4105B1F1BE66407BA959710C78F001D3@GeoPC>

Yowsa!   NO earth there.  Both sides of that bulb are hot -- seems counter 
intuitive but that is what makes it light or more particularly not light 
when proper charging is taking place.

Remove that spurious earth connection.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Gillis" <jgillis at tcd.ie>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 9:21 AM
Subject: [TR] Battery in and Q


>... I fit an earth supply to the
> back of the ignition light even though there does not appear to be
> one on the wiring diagram. 

From Lbc.Resto at comcast.net  Sat Oct 20 10:44:33 2007
From: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net (Ian)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 12:44:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Grinding aluminum
In-Reply-To: <7701E054-4CA5-47D3-8DB5-E799BA62DD4D@ipns.com>
References: <7701E054-4CA5-47D3-8DB5-E799BA62DD4D@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <000601c81338$7f104c50$0502a8c0@RAS>

NEVER grind it with a high speed stone such as on a bench mounted grinding
wheel.  When it "loads it up" there is a possibility that the stone will
come apart with catastrophic consequences for you.  I was taught this the
first day of machine shop training when I was an apprentice aircraft
maintenance engineer back in the olde country. I seem to recall that it was
due to differential heating.  If you have done it, then get the wheel
"dressed" (or whatever you call it over here), or even better, just replace
the wheel.

--
Ian
62 TR4


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Darrell Walker
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 12:36 AM
To: Triumphs List
Subject: [TR] Grinding aluminum

Quick update on my DCOE project, I purchase a new set of intake  
manifolds, Cannon instead of TWM, and the fit is much better.  I'll  
be able to use my existing header without any modifications.

But now I want to do a bit of port matching between the intakes and  
the carbs.  What is the proper way to grind aluminum?  It always  
seems to load up the stone/paper/whatever.

Thanks,
Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sat Oct 20 12:18:17 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 12:18:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] Moving up the British ladder.
In-Reply-To: <810996.81728.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <810996.81728.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <471A4669.8000908@tscusa.org>

Kurt Johnson wrote:
> I'm close to buying an XJS.  As an addition, not a
> replacement for my TR6, heaven forbid.  Does anyone
> know a website/email list as good as this Triumph list
> for Jags?  
Welcome to the club!  The best website is of course 
http://www.jag-lovers.com.  There are over 60 thousand members.  Do 
subscribe with a donation as this gives you access to more features of 
the site.  The site is a treasure trove of information.

So which XJS?  V12, Cabrio,  tin top?

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat Oct 20 13:15:03 2007
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 15:15:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] Alloy Material Removal with Tool designed for that use.
Message-ID: <cf6.1d63ecb7.344badb7@cs.com>

Darrell Walker,

There are some excellent grinding tools out there with flutes specialized for 
cutting alloy.  Not cheap, but you will have that tool for a very long time.

There is also a dressing formula that will not allow any aluminum to build up 
in the futes. The combination allows removing material at a prodigious rate.

Regards and good luck with your rebuild.

Joe Alexander   </HTML>

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Sat Oct 20 13:45:24 2007
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 12:45:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Moving up the British ladder.
In-Reply-To: <471A4669.8000908@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <902578.1036.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It's a one owner '95 coupe with the I6 engine.  It has
56,000 miles.  I have a friend who is an executive
with an insurance company and he find wrecked cars for
me. the car has minor, repairable damage to one
fender, the front bumper, and some other cosmetic
damage. but otherwise was in execellent condition.  I
believe I can get the car for 2,000-2,500 dollars. 
I'am I nuts to buy this car?




--- "Glenn A. Merrell" <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
wrote:

> Kurt Johnson wrote:
> > I'm close to buying an XJS.  As an addition, not a
> > replacement for my TR6, heaven forbid.  Does
> anyone
> > know a website/email list as good as this Triumph
> list
> > for Jags?  
> Welcome to the club!  The best website is of course 
> http://www.jag-lovers.com.  There are over 60
> thousand members.  Do 
> subscribe with a donation as this gives you access
> to more features of 
> the site.  The site is a treasure trove of
> information.
> 
> So which XJS?  V12, Cabrio,  tin top?
> 
> -- 
> Glenn A. Merrell
> Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
> The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone
> chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From SHOMWAY at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 14:09:14 2007
From: SHOMWAY at aol.com (SHOMWAY at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 16:09:14 EDT
Subject: [TR] Nuts And Bolts....
Message-ID: <c9d.1ca53318.344bba6a@aol.com>

Some time ago there was a posting of the most commonly used nuts and bolts to 
keep on hand. I am looking to have a good selection on hand so it limits my 
driving to the hardware store. If someone has a list of the sizes and grades I 
would appreciate it.
 
Thanks,
Gordie Swart
1976 TR6
1967 Healey 3000
1987 Mustang GT
2007 Edge



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From tr6driver at earthlink.net  Sat Oct 20 15:08:39 2007
From: tr6driver at earthlink.net (Jamie Palmer)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 17:08:39 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [TR] Thinking about an XJS???
Message-ID: <2303707.1192914519442.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Never, never again.  Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.   However, if you insist on doing so, I have a few tips:
1)  Download Kirby's book and follow it before attempting to fix anything.
2)  Make sure you are prepared to spend 10+ hours changing spark plugs
3)  Did you know the second, inline coil is located in front of the radiator (!)
4)  If the individual heat/air direction controls don't work well...run to the nearest exit.
5)  That 30-minute job to replace the tranny filter on the GM tranny becomes an all-day job as the cover is blocked by the 17-component (!) rear tranny mount
6)  Each of the 4 converters goes for around $750, so if you have emissions inspections, get it passed before you buy it.
7)  Did I say never, never again already?
8)  Beware of cracked plug wires.  The ignition on late cars packs enough punch to blow through the insulation if the timing is off...and those pipes the spark is grounding to is the fuel injection system.
9)  Don't try to adjust the throttle linkage to adjust the idle speed; it's done through air bleed screws
10)  Buy the correct, not "will-fit" thermostats with the bleed valve included.
11)  Make sure the rear rotors don't need turning or replacing.  Trust me.
12)  Unless they were replaced last week, plan on replacing the steering rack bushings.
13)  I did say "don't", right?

Now, I admit I learned more about fuel injection from that car than anything else I've ever worked on.  And there's nothing like the feeling of it cruising at 80.  But I will NEVER own another one...unless I hit the jackpot and can pay someone else to work on it for me.  And I even made money on mine (minus my labor, of course) when I sold it.  But I'm reminded of a saying from when people buy boats; the two happiest days are the day it's purchased and the day it's sold!

Good luck, regardless!

Jamie Palmer
'67 2000 Estate
'72 TR6
'63 Italia 2000

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sat Oct 20 15:33:17 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 15:33:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] Moving up the British ladder.
In-Reply-To: <902578.1036.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <902578.1036.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <471A741D.2020904@tscusa.org>

Kurt Johnson wrote:
> It's a one owner '95 coupe with the I6 engine.  It has
> 56,000 miles.  I have a friend who is an executive
> with an insurance company and he find wrecked cars for
> me. the car has minor, repairable damage to one
> fender, the front bumper, and some other cosmetic
> damage. but otherwise was in execellent condition.  I
> believe I can get the car for 2,000-2,500 dollars. 
> I'am I nuts to buy this car?
>
>   
For a sanity check, go browse the XJ-S Forum on jag-lovers.com.  Spend 
an hour or two reading about other owners questions and solutions.  This 
will give you a good overview of what you are in for.  And you are in 
for it of course.  These cars have no real resale value and can get 
really expensive to fix, so you gotta love 'em and not really expect to 
get your work and parts expense back out of it.  If you have a good 
cheap panel beater who can hammer out the old body panels and do the 
painting, that is good.  Otherwise, expect body work to be pricey on 
those years XJ-S.

Me, I do all my own mechanical and electrical work, and I have a 4 post 
lift in my garage.  Things that are cost prohibitive to fix at the 
dealer (at $200 or more an hour)  I fix for little cost and a lot of my 
own time.  I use Jag-Lovers quite a lot for advice and locating parts, 
and have a full set of manuals for my Jaguar, plus computer scanning 
software.  Without those tools and realizing you are going to do your 
own work to keep from going bankrupt, forget it.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From dorpaul at negia.net  Sat Oct 20 17:52:27 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 19:52:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] front clip reinstallation?
Message-ID: <000a01c81374$506acdd0$9194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Tomorrow I will be adding the other front fender onto my TR3.  I thinking that
this will be followed by adding the front apron.  However, I wonder if there's
any special tips or suggestions for doing this?  I'm guessing that I'll fasten
the mounted outer fenders to the remaining inner fenders before I'll position
the apron.  But whoa!  I want to install a "pusher" electric fan to the
radiator before the apron ever goes on right?
    Of course, I'll also want to do any last minute things to the gone-thru
and rebuilt steering box (I guess just add steering oil, right?).  The
steering appartus has also been 'refreshed'.  If there's no problem with the
above, then I'll be able to mount the front apron, right?

    Actually, I do think I've heard of a suggestion and possibly might follow
it: it is to remove the radiator by lifting it off it's 3/16" mounting bolts
and replace them with 5/16" bolts as this makes something easier??  (This
sounds like just creating an extra step!)

    Is there anything I need to include or change since I've never done this
before?  It's been years since I disassembled the car.

Thanks Much in advance,
Paul Dorsey- 60 TR3

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Oct 20 17:54:45 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 17:54:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
Message-ID: <20071020235439.074621879CE@autox.team.net>

Well, I went down to my FLAPS and bought what looked like a pretty universal
engine stand only to get it home and see there really isn't anywhere to bolt
this TRactor engine up to it.
 
Is there an adaptive design that will utilize this stand, obviously an
excellent stand for the Ford/Chrysler/Chevy crowd, or do I take it back and
build something from scratch?
 
Thanks in advance for your advice!
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
"I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!"


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From mmarr at notwires.com  Sat Oct 20 19:52:48 2007
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 20:52:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Grinding aluminum
References: <7701E054-4CA5-47D3-8DB5-E799BA62DD4D@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <002a01c81385$15e1b230$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

I have used a burr quite successfully when I have done this.  You can also 
try a wheel but it must be very coarse to stop the loading that you refer 
to.  For final finishing, I wrapped a bunch of steel wool around a mandrel 
and used it to polish the ports.

Mike

>
> But now I want to do a bit of port matching between the intakes and
> the carbs.  What is the proper way to grind aluminum?  It always
> seems to load up the stone/paper/whatever.

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Oct 21 08:27:58 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 15:27:58 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
References: <20071020235439.074621879CE@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <006101c813ee$9499a2e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

>there really isn't anywhere to bolt
> this TRactor engine up to it.

Can anyone (Everyone?) please tell me why the wet liner 4 pot is so 
frequently referred to as a tractor engine?

Jonmac 

From dorpaul at negia.net  Sun Oct 21 08:51:37 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 10:51:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire battery tray for a TR3?
Message-ID: <003201c813f1$e33449c0$9194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I am hoping I hear an immediate response from this inquiry as the auction ends
soon:

Will a aftermarket battery tray from a Spitfire correctly fit a TR3?  (I know
ahead of time that there are usually slits for the TR3's battery-holddown
brackets that this one will not have.)

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Oct 21 09:02:52 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 15:02:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] Moving up the British ladder.
In-Reply-To: <902578.1036.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <471A4669.8000908@tscusa.org>
	<902578.1036.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W34A4FAC78ADBDFDB2F7C7CE5990@phx.gbl>

>I believe I can get the car for 2,000-2,500 dollars.
> I'am I nuts to buy this car?

I would get a good estimate on the repairs before buying it.  2k - 2.5k on a
Jag repair doesn't go very far.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
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http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailne
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From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun Oct 21 09:32:24 2007
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 11:32:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Steering wheel
Message-ID: <008801c813f7$95148920$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Hello all,
Been a while since I posted, but have a quick question on an annoying tidbit
on my 59 TR3A. The steering wheel is not centered when the wheels are
straight. Obviously I put the wheel back on off center. Straight shaft, not
split column. I know that you need to pull the stator tube to get at the nut
holding the wheel. Hence my question. Is it possible to loosen the gland nut
retract the tube far enough without disconnecting the wires from the lamps to
get to the nut holding the wheel. Then remove the wheel enough to turn it and
lock it. I am really trying to avoid disconnecting the lamps and extracting
the entire stator tube.
Alex
59 TR3A -well on the road in sunny Florida
72 TR6

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sun Oct 21 10:04:42 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 09:04:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Steering wheel
In-Reply-To: <008801c813f7$95148920$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <008801c813f7$95148920$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <33D56117BC2E4168B050B3AC73F672CF@GeoPC>

If the wheel is just a little bit off-center I think you could center it by 
adjusting the the tie-rods an equal amount on each side.  It may take a bit 
of trial & error to get it exact (or some math to come up with a predictable 
adjustment).

Ideally you would wat the tie-rods to be equal length on each side but it 
seems like a *slight* inequality wouldn't affect the steering geometry. 
Perhaps others can comment.

Geo


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
Subject: [TR] Steering wheel


> Hello all,
> Been a while since I posted, but have a quick question on an annoying 
> tidbit
> on my 59 TR3A. The steering wheel is not centered when the wheels are
> straight. 

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sun Oct 21 10:10:56 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 09:10:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
In-Reply-To: <006101c813ee$9499a2e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <20071020235439.074621879CE@autox.team.net>
	<006101c813ee$9499a2e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <B168BABA586F4536823420CD5DFDEE4C@GeoPC>

I suspect that generations of driving on the right-hand side of the road has 
had some subtle affect on that part of our brains that controls judgment in 
the use of words.  Hence our inability to spell 'colour', pronounce 
'schedule' or incorporate 'whilst' into everyday conversation.

Geo


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
To: "wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net>; "'Triumph List'" <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 7:27 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand


> >there really isn't anywhere to bolt
>> this TRactor engine up to it.
>
> Can anyone (Everyone?) please tell me why the wet liner 4 pot is so
> frequently referred to as a tractor engine?
>
> Jonmac 

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Oct 21 11:05:54 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 11:05:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
In-Reply-To: <006101c813ee$9499a2e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <20071020235439.074621879CE@autox.team.net>
	<006101c813ee$9499a2e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <471B86F2.2030002@tscusa.org>

John Macartney wrote:
>> there really isn't anywhere to bolt
>> this TRactor engine up to it.
>>     
>
> Can anyone (Everyone?) please tell me why the wet liner 4 pot is so 
> frequently referred to as a tractor engine?
>
> Jonmac 
This is just a S.W.A.G. (Standard Wild Arse Guess) but could it have 
something to do with the Ferguson engines (and Tractors) being forged, 
machined assembled and installed by Standard/Triumph Motor Company from 
about 1945 to 1956 due to the manufacturing agreement between Ferguson 
and Standard?  So, since Standard made the Ferguson Tractor after Ford 
begged out, and those tractors used a similar engine in the Vanguard, 
TR1/2/3/4, folk lore says the Triumph is a Tractor engine, although it 
was probably first used in a Standard automobile.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Oct 21 12:11:54 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 19:11:54 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
References: <20071020235439.074621879CE@autox.team.net>
	<006101c813ee$9499a2e0$0201a8c0@Bevan> <471B86F2.2030002@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <007701c8140d$dcddc170$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Glenn Merrell wrote:

> This is just a S.W.A.G. (Standard Wild Arse Guess)

I do so like American terminologies sometimes. I'll have to put this in my 
'little black book....

> but could it have something to do with the Ferguson engines (and Tractors) 
> being forged, machined assembled and installed by Standard/Triumph Motor 
> Company from about 1945 to 1956 due to the manufacturing agreement between 
> Ferguson and Standard?

Yes, yes, yes

>So, since Standard made the Ferguson Tractor after Ford begged out,

er, not quite begged out - but fired (read terminated manufacturing 
contract) by Harry Ferguson for infringing one or more of his patents 
without paying him the royalties due

> and those tractors used a similar engine in the Vanguard, TR1/2/3/4, folk 
> lore says the Triumph is a Tractor engine, although it was probably first 
> used in a Standard automobile.

Yes, yes, yes again. The engine was originally designed by Ted Grinham for 
use in the Standard Vanguard launched in 1948. Ferguson tried to get Sir 
John Black to bring production of the engine forward to 1946 ish but Black 
and Grinham refused. This is why the very early Ferguson tractors made by 
Standard Motor Co, were fitted with engines from Continental.

Certainly the tractor and car engine have many similarities but having owned 
both variants myself (Vanguard and Fergie) there are some very major 
differences and non-interchangeabilty of parts.

It's okay guys, I was just anxious not to see that 'lore' becoming 'gospel' 
whereby statements indicate the engine was originally designed for a 
tractor - when it wasn't :::)))

In these fuel-conscious times (in Europe at least) it seems strange that 
there aren't more (any?) sidescreen TR's fitted with the Vanguard diesel 
engine (a derivative) that also fouind its way into the tractor.

Jonmac

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Oct 21 13:51:51 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 13:51:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand - Ferguson Tractors used Standard's OHV
 engines
In-Reply-To: <007701c8140d$dcddc170$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <20071020235439.074621879CE@autox.team.net>
	<006101c813ee$9499a2e0$0201a8c0@Bevan> <471B86F2.2030002@tscusa.org>
	<007701c8140d$dcddc170$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <471BADD7.4000000@tscusa.org>

John Macartney wrote:
> Glenn Merrell wrote:
>   
>> but could it have something to do with the Ferguson engines (and Tractors) 
>> being forged, machined assembled and installed by Standard/Triumph Motor 
>> Company from about 1945 to 1956 due to the manufacturing agreement between 
>> Ferguson and Standard?
>>     
>
> Yes, yes, yes
>   
>> and those tractors used a similar engine in the Vanguard, TR1/2/3/4, folk 
>> lore says the Triumph is a Tractor engine, although it was probably first 
>> used in a Standard automobile.
>>     
> It's okay guys, I was just anxious not to see that 'lore' becoming 'gospel' 
> whereby statements indicate the engine was originally designed for a 
> tractor - when it wasn't :::)))
>
> In these fuel-conscious times (in Europe at least) it seems strange that 
> there aren't more (any?) sidescreen TR's fitted with the Vanguard diesel 
> engine (a derivative) that also fouind its way into the tractor.
>
> Jonmac
>   
I will bet that 90% of the readers are seeing this for the first time John.

Unfortunately, the lore and myth has long been propagated that Ferguson 
made the engines for the first "TR"  series so the myth is that TR's 
were "tractor" engines.  Of course that is reversed from fact, when in 
reality, Ferguson Tractors were fitted to newer technology over head 
valve high performance push rod Triumph engines with a drastic increase 
in horsepower!!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 21 14:55:25 2007
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 13:55:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand - Ferguson Tractors used Standard's OHV
 engines
In-Reply-To: <471BADD7.4000000@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <180998.69653.qm@web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Back in 1980 when at the tender age of 15 I aquired my
first TR, a '64 Tr4, the only place in my hometown of
Mason City, Iowa that stocked an oil fiter was the
local farmers Co-op, for the Ferguson tractor.  The
dealer didn't even stock the filters. We had at that
time a Triumph/Saab dealer in town. Two hot brands in
1980.  He could display two cars on his sales floor at
a time. If you wanted anything different you could
special order and wait 6 months for your car to
arrive.  Parts arrived about a month sooner.


--- "Glenn A. Merrell" <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
wrote:

> John Macartney wrote:
> > Glenn Merrell wrote:
> >   
> >> but could it have something to do with the
> Ferguson engines (and Tractors) 
> >> being forged, machined assembled and installed by
> Standard/Triumph Motor 
> >> Company from about 1945 to 1956 due to the
> manufacturing agreement between 
> >> Ferguson and Standard?
> >>     
> >
> > Yes, yes, yes
> >   
> >> and those tractors used a similar engine in the
> Vanguard, TR1/2/3/4, folk 
> >> lore says the Triumph is a Tractor engine,
> although it was probably first 
> >> used in a Standard automobile.
> >>     
> > It's okay guys, I was just anxious not to see that
> 'lore' becoming 'gospel' 
> > whereby statements indicate the engine was
> originally designed for a 
> > tractor - when it wasn't :::)))
> >
> > In these fuel-conscious times (in Europe at least)
> it seems strange that 
> > there aren't more (any?) sidescreen TR's fitted
> with the Vanguard diesel 
> > engine (a derivative) that also fouind its way
> into the tractor.
> >
> > Jonmac
> >   
> I will bet that 90% of the readers are seeing this
> for the first time John.
> 
> Unfortunately, the lore and myth has long been
> propagated that Ferguson 
> made the engines for the first "TR"  series so the
> myth is that TR's 
> were "tractor" engines.  Of course that is reversed
> from fact, when in 
> reality, Ferguson Tractors were fitted to newer
> technology over head 
> valve high performance push rod Triumph engines with
> a drastic increase 
> in horsepower!!
> 
> -- 
> Glenn A. Merrell
> Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
> The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone
> chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!
> _______________________________________________
> kajohns64 at yahoo.com
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Oct 21 15:23:14 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 17:23:14 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
Message-ID: <bd5.1b1d11f6.344d1d42@aol.com>

So Bill, now that you have entire history of the Ferguson/TR motor but your  
block still sits on the floor next to your 'universal' engine stand, are you  
ready to mount the motor?  I have my TR motor on a universal stand and I  used 
3 1/2" long 5/16 18 bolts with  1/2" grade 8 washer backed up by  a 5/16" 
grade 8 washer.  The 3 1/2" length is determined by the  specific mount arm you 
are using.  Yours may require longer, but probably  not shorter.  Bolt the arms 
of the stand to the threaded holes that the  bell housing bolts up to at the 
two top 'corners'.  Use the 1/2" washers  backed up by the 5/16" washers under 
the head of the bolt as the hole in the  stand arm is likely to be much too 
large.  At the lower left 'corner' use a  bell housing mount hole as well but 
on the lower right 'corner' use the lower  starter mount hole.  The starter 
mount hole is not threaded so go through  and use a washer and nut.  
Once this is bolted up make sure the bolt goes through the bellhousing  mount 
holes enough so you can put washer and nut on it as a safety  measure.
Before doing all this I centered the degree wheel on the flywheel flange  and 
mounted it with two flywheel bolts.  I wanted the degree wheel on the  crank 
all the way through to final assembly so I could accurately mark my crank  
pulley for timing.  
My stand is rated for 1500 lbs but toward the end when the head went on,  
etc, etc, I put a brace from the front of the block down to the center leg on  
the stand to take the weight off the 5/16 bolts bolting the block to the  stand. 
 It just seemed prudent to me.
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Oct 21 15:36:46 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 17:36:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan removal problem
Message-ID: <c74.1aff330f.344d206e@aol.com>

John,
I could not even break mine free with an impact wrench.  So, I went to  Lowes 
and bought a 3' length of angle iron and drilled two holes near one end  that 
meet up with two threaded holes where the fan mounts.  I bolted this  on to 
the extension and lowered the block to the floor.  Using the  weight of the 
block to my favor and the angle iron lever against the floor, I  put an iron pipe 
on the end of a breaker bar and broke that bugger free.  
It was actually quite easy.
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Oct 21 15:44:58 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 22:44:58 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
References: <bd5.1b1d11f6.344d1d42@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601c8142b$a0a164a0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

David Lylis wrote:

> So Bill, now that you have entire history of the Ferguson/TR motor ....

Au contraire, David. There's a raft of information still to cover........ :)

Jonmac 

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 21 16:07:34 2007
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 17:07:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spitfire battery tray for a TR3?
Message-ID: <380-220071002122734328@earthlink.net>

Hi Paul,

Looking in the British Victoria TR2/3/4 catalog, theirs does not have the
slots and simply fits between the hold down brackets. If the battery tray 
you are watching fits between the brackets,all should be good. I had an
AMCO plastic tray (no slots) in my 1958 TR3A that fit and worked well. The
original drain tube from the battery box down thru the transmission tunnel
was worthless with the tray in place.

Go for it,  

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN   .


> Subject: [TR] Spitfire battery tray for a TR3?
>
> I am hoping I hear an immediate response from this inquiry as the auction
ends
> soon:
>
> Will a aftermarket battery tray from a Spitfire correctly fit a TR3?  (I
know
> ahead of time that there are usually slits for the TR3's battery-holddown
> brackets that this one will not have.)
>
> Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3
> _______________________________________________

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Sun Oct 21 16:25:57 2007
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 15:25:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] removal of fan extension and benevolent commercial message
In-Reply-To: <d26.169faf3b.344d094f@cs.com>
References: <d26.169faf3b.344d094f@cs.com>
Message-ID: <F9D48269-B132-4EB9-AD3A-4B23EA190FE8@cox.net>

After a lot of good advice I have the fan extension off and replaced  
with a Fan elimination kit from Rick Patten at TBI Conversions   
http://www.Sidedrafttbi.com (NFI).  I was successful after heating up  
the dog bolt with a propane torch & then using a 1 1/8' socket with  
my electric impact wrench!

I can send out a picture of the installed fan eliminator to anyone  
who is interested in seeing it.

Again thanks for the help

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Oct 21 18:17:36 2007
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 20:17:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] removal of fan extension and benevolent commercial message
In-Reply-To: <F9D48269-B132-4EB9-AD3A-4B23EA190FE8@cox.net>
References: <d26.169faf3b.344d094f@cs.com>
	<F9D48269-B132-4EB9-AD3A-4B23EA190FE8@cox.net>
Message-ID: <200710212017.40368.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 21 October 2007 06:25 pm, 60TR3A wrote:
> After a lot of good advice I have the fan extension off and replaced
> with a Fan elimination kit from Rick Patten at TBI Conversions
> http://www.Sidedrafttbi.com (NFI).  I was successful after heating up
> the dog bolt with a propane torch & then using a 1 1/8' socket with
> my electric impact wrench!
>
> I can send out a picture of the installed fan eliminator to anyone
> who is interested in seeing it.
>
> Again thanks for the help
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
I have always use my air impact wrench with about 120 #/sq in on full torque.

Bolt always comes right off.

Both the 3 and 4 have the later 4 std fan. No overheating even this year with 
a hotter than normal summer. Std original radiators, std water pump. 50 / 50 
mix distiled water and anti-freeze and 165 thermostat (TRF).

The 3 actually runs a bit cooler than the 4 eventhough it has the radiator 
with the starter hole.

Both engines have 87mm + H6 SU's.

I have always wondered why the need to convert to electric fans. I guess there 
will be a small HP gain, maybe better overall cooling but for me since I only 
put about 1 grand one each car a year I cant justify the extra work, $ etc.

Although I only drive about 3 miles to work each day, I cannot and will not 
drive either 3 or the 4 to work. About a month ago, my junior employee had 
her 350z dented in the parking lot by a F150. Driven by a 18 year old goof 
that really cant park very well. 

So I drive either the bike (also a Triumph) or the POS vue to work. The 3 and 
4 are for car hops, sunday drives  on back roads and the ocasional wedding 
etc. I still have 2 daughters to go!

BTW if anyone wants to take a look at the wedding photos with the car, take a 
look at the following link: 
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/pictures?a=67b0de21b357a67bc43b&sid=0AcNmzZm1ZOGLnI

There are over 260 pictures, but on the 1st page are the photos with my 
daughter, new husband and the 63 TR4.


Bob

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Sun Oct 21 17:37:02 2007
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 16:37:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
In-Reply-To: <007701c8140d$dcddc170$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <20071020235439.074621879CE@autox.team.net>
	<006101c813ee$9499a2e0$0201a8c0@Bevan> <471B86F2.2030002@tscusa.org>
	<007701c8140d$dcddc170$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <471BE29E.9020900@razzolink.com>

John Macartney wrote:

> In these fuel-conscious times (in Europe at least) it seems strange that 
> there aren't more (any?) sidescreen TR's fitted with the Vanguard diesel 
> engine (a derivative) that also fouind its way into the tractor.

The Vanguard diesel never made it to the states that I'm aware of.

However, I have been finding myself wondering how difficult it would be 
to mount a VW 1.9 tdi longitudinally in a TR3.  More HP and about 50 
miles per gallon.

TeriAnn

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Sun Oct 21 17:42:56 2007
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 16:42:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] removal of fan extension and benevolent commercial message
In-Reply-To: <200710212017.40368.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <d26.169faf3b.344d094f@cs.com>
	<F9D48269-B132-4EB9-AD3A-4B23EA190FE8@cox.net>
	<200710212017.40368.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <40CD6274-C83E-4F6B-B283-64A944D4164E@cox.net>

> I have always use my air impact wrench with about 120 #/sq in on  
> full torque.
>
> Bolt always comes right off.

Mine was so worn that until Joe Alexander said it was a hex-head I  
thought it was round.  When I went back & looked I finally noticed a  
lit bit of flats.  :-)
>
> Both the 3 and 4 have the later 4 std fan. No overheating even this  
> year with
> a hotter than normal summer. Std original radiators, std water  
> pump. 50 / 50
> mix distiled water and anti-freeze and 165 thermostat (TRF).
>
> The 3 actually runs a bit cooler than the 4 eventhough it has the  
> radiator
> with the starter hole.
>
> Both engines have 87mm + H6 SU's.
>
> I have always wondered why the need to convert to electric fans.

I live in Phoenix where the summers are 115F almost every day & at  
sunrise it is still 90F.  I put an electric fan on as to help out  
when I am stuck in traffic in the summer!  I am taking the engine fan  
off to make it easier to change pulley belts with out having to pull  
the front end off.  :-)
> I guess there
> will be a small HP gain, maybe better overall cooling but for me  
> since I only
> put about 1 grand one each car a year I cant justify the extra  
> work, $ etc.
>
> Although I only drive about 3 miles to work each day, I cannot and  
> will not
> drive either 3 or the 4 to work. About a month ago, my junior  
> employee had
> her 350z dented in the parking lot by a F150. Driven by a 18 year  
> old goof
> that really cant park very well.
I am 7 miles from work & enjoy driving the TR in our winter!  We have  
a very big parking lot & because I show up at 0530 (I work with some  
colleagues in Czech) I park in the wider parking slots that used to  
be reserved for the management.
>
> So I drive either the bike (also a Triumph) or the POS vue to work.  
> The 3 and
> 4 are for car hops, sunday drives  on back roads and the ocasional  
> wedding
> etc. I still have 2 daughters to go!

Beautiful daughter & car!

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From darrellw at ipns.com  Sun Oct 21 18:09:53 2007
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 17:09:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Grinding aluminum
References: <7701E054-4CA5-47D3-8DB5-E799BA62DD4D@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <810A2F49-EB36-4353-A21A-3569FD4C3601@ipns.com>

Thanks to everyone who replied.  It turned out that the small amount  
of matching I needed to do was pretty easily accomplished with a  
coarse file.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun Oct 21 18:15:31 2007
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 20:15:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Steering wheel
References: <008801c813f7$95148920$6401a8c0@STATION6>
	<33D56117BC2E4168B050B3AC73F672CF@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <013201c81440$a8d60580$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Update------ You be the man George. Took about an hour and several 
adjustment but the steering is straight (98%) and so are the wheels. Saved a 
lot of PITA time for the alternative. Thanks again.
Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" <ahwahnee at cybertrails.com>
To: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>; "Triumph List" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Steering wheel


> If the wheel is just a little bit off-center I think you could center it 
> by adjusting the the tie-rods an equal amount on each side.  It may take a 
> bit of trial & error to get it exact (or some math to come up with a 
> predictable adjustment).
>
> Ideally you would wat the tie-rods to be equal length on each side but it 
> seems like a *slight* inequality wouldn't affect the steering geometry. 
> Perhaps others can comment.
>
> Geo
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
> Subject: [TR] Steering wheel
>
>
>> Hello all,
>> Been a while since I posted, but have a quick question on an annoying 
>> tidbit
>> on my 59 TR3A. The steering wheel is not centered when the wheels are
>> straight.

From elliottr at rmi.net  Sun Oct 21 18:25:31 2007
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 19:25:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR250 Running Problems
Message-ID: <471BEDFB.5080300@rmi.net>

About one month ago,  my wife was driving her TR250 home from a car show 
when it started running rough. She was about 2 miles from home and 
manged to get the car there.  It was fairly hot day we have both had 
experiences with spark plug wires so we suspected one had gone bad.  In 
the process of checking them one of the connectors cam off the wire - so 
even if they had not been bad, they were now.  So I replaced the wires, 
cap, rotor, condenser. 

We took it out for a test drive and it died after driving about 3 
miles.   It  restarted and seemed to be running okay so we took off.  It 
died again after about 3 miles (we weren't home yet because of the route 
we had taken.)  It was acting like it ran out of fuel - we had over half 
a tank.  So I figured it must be the fuel filter or pump - I started 
with the filter as it was easily available from the local NAPA store.  I 
also discovered tears in the carb diaphragms so I replaced those. 

It seems to idle and rev up normally so we took it out for another test 
drive and it died again after about 2 miles.  The  fuel filter is full 
of gas.  The  coil does not feel hot.  So we get it home and I look at 
the diaphragm in the fuel pump.  There are no tears in it.  I haven't 
done any kind of pressure test or flow test. 

Does this seem like a fuel pump problem?  Anything else I should consider? 

Thanks,

Roger Elliott

From mathews at uga.edu  Sun Oct 21 18:30:16 2007
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 20:30:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR250 Running Problems
In-Reply-To: <471BEDFB.5080300@rmi.net>
References: <471BEDFB.5080300@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <20071022003055.BD0B41879CD@autox.team.net>

I had a similar nagging problem that turned out to be clogged fuel 
lines from the tank. Some bozo had dropped a golf ball in the tank 
and all those little rubber bands came loose and even after I took 
out the tank and cleaned it they were already in the fuel lines.  It 
would run while then die. I disconnected the fuel lines on both ends 
and took an air hose and blew back towards the tank and a hole lot of 
little rubber bands blew out. No more problem with that!

Doug

At 08:25 PM 10/21/2007, Roger Elliott wrote:
>About one month ago,  my wife was driving her TR250 home from a car show
>when it started running rough. She was about 2 miles from home and
>manged to get the car there.  It was fairly hot day we have both had
>experiences with spark plug wires so we suspected one had gone bad.  In
>the process of checking them one of the connectors cam off the wire - so
>even if they had not been bad, they were now.  So I replaced the wires,
>cap, rotor, condenser.
>
>We took it out for a test drive and it died after driving about 3
>miles.   It  restarted and seemed to be running okay so we took off.  It
>died again after about 3 miles (we weren't home yet because of the route
>we had taken.)  It was acting like it ran out of fuel - we had over half
>a tank.  So I figured it must be the fuel filter or pump - I started
>with the filter as it was easily available from the local NAPA store.  I
>also discovered tears in the carb diaphragms so I replaced those.
>
>It seems to idle and rev up normally so we took it out for another test
>drive and it died again after about 2 miles.  The  fuel filter is full
>of gas.  The  coil does not feel hot.  So we get it home and I look at
>the diaphragm in the fuel pump.  There are no tears in it.  I haven't
>done any kind of pressure test or flow test.
>
>Does this seem like a fuel pump problem?  Anything else I should consider?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Roger Elliott

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Oct 21 18:38:42 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 00:38:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
Message-ID: <102220070038.16991.471BF112000167AD0000425F22007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
> Glenn Merrell wrote:
> 
> > This is just a S.W.A.G. (Standard Wild Arse Guess)

I believe that is Scientific Wild-Ass Guess.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sun Oct 21 18:39:28 2007
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 17:39:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Standard Vanguard and Ferguson tractor engines
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0710211739280.20078@hymn34.u.washington.edu>

> John Macartney wrote:
>
> Certainly the tractor and car engine have many similarities but having 
> owned 
> both variants myself (Vanguard and Fergie) there are some very major 
> differences and non-interchangeabilty of parts.

Hi John
   Which model Fergie did you have?  I googled around and found some photos of a TEA-20 under restoration.

http://www.btinternet.com/~bodgerjim/tract/tract.htm  (Scroll down)

   I can see the family resemblance in the layout of the engine components, and definitely some differences in the details.
   I wonder if that magneto ignition would work on a TR?  No more leaky batteries to worry about... and who needs bright headlights anyway?  ;)

-Nick Wolf
'64-ish TR4
Vancouver, BC

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sun Oct 21 18:43:10 2007
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 17:43:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Diesel Vanguards and TR diesel conversions
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0710211743100.20078@hymn34.u.washington.edu>

> John Macartney wrote:
> In these fuel-conscious times (in Europe at least) it seems strange that 
> there aren't more (any?) sidescreen TR's fitted with the Vanguard diesel 
> engine (a derivative) that also fouind its way into the tractor.
> 
> Jonmac

   From Wikipedia's article on the Standard Vanguard:
   "In February 1954 Standard became the first British car maker to offer a diesel engine as a factory fitted option. The chassis was stiffened to take the weight of the heavier engine and performance suffered with 65 mph about the top speed. 1,973 were made."

   Sooo, I tend to agree with TeriAnn that a torquey TDI would be a more practical, available, and fun option.  This idea keeps coming up, and it seems viable... Has anybody done it?

-Nick Wolf
'64-ish TR4 not going diesel any time soon, but maybe some day
Vancouver, BC

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Oct 21 18:50:27 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 18:50:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand -SWAG
In-Reply-To: <102220070038.16991.471BF112000167AD0000425F22007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <102220070038.16991.471BF112000167AD0000425F22007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <471BF3D3.2070904@tscusa.org>

pethier at comcast.net wrote:
>> Glenn Merrell wrote:
>>     
>>> This is just a S.W.A.G. (Standard Wild Arse Guess)
>>>       
>
> I believe that is Scientific Wild-Ass Guess.
>
> --
> Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
>   
Adapted for the situation Phil ... ;-)
i.e. "Standard Triumph" relative to ... aw... forget it ...

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 21 18:54:38 2007
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 17:54:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
In-Reply-To: <471BF3D3.2070904@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <667760.67172.qm@web81708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

http://www.britishmotoring.net/Archives/2004_Summer.pdf



--- "Glenn A. Merrell" <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
wrote:

> pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> >> Glenn Merrell wrote:
> >>     
> >>> This is just a S.W.A.G. (Standard Wild Arse
> Guess)
> >>>       
> >
> > I believe that is Scientific Wild-Ass Guess.
> >
> > --
> > Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
> >   
> Adapted for the situation Phil ... ;-)
> i.e. "Standard Triumph" relative to ... aw... forget
> it ...
> 
> -- 
> Glenn A. Merrell
> Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
> The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone
> chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!
> _______________________________________________
> kajohns64 at yahoo.com
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Oct 21 19:08:42 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 18:08:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
In-Reply-To: <102220070038.16991.471BF112000167AD0000425F22007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <102220070038.16991.471BF112000167AD0000425F22007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000601c81448$167fbc50$2202a8c0@newcomputer>

Or "Sophisticated Wild Ass Guess"

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 5:39 PM
To: John Macartney; StagByTriumph at tscusa.org; 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand

From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
> Glenn Merrell wrote:
> 
> > This is just a S.W.A.G. (Standard Wild Arse Guess)

I believe that is Scientific Wild-Ass Guess.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.
_______________________________________________
spitlist at cox.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Sun Oct 21 19:15:55 2007
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 18:15:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand -SWAG
In-Reply-To: <471BF3D3.2070904@tscusa.org>
References: <102220070038.16991.471BF112000167AD0000425F22007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<471BF3D3.2070904@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <471BF9CB.9080700@razzolink.com>

>> This is just a S.W.A.G. (Standard Wild Arse Guess)

> I believe that is Scientific Wild-Ass Guess.

Or there is just the generic WAG

Same thing without the disputed variable "S".

Either one can lead to a FUBAR

TeriAnn

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Oct 21 19:19:53 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 18:19:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand -SWAG
In-Reply-To: <471BF9CB.9080700@razzolink.com>
References: <102220070038.16991.471BF112000167AD0000425F22007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><471BF3D3.2070904@tscusa.org>
	<471BF9CB.9080700@razzolink.com>
Message-ID: <000701c81449$a69c2c00$2202a8c0@newcomputer>

Don't get me started on that one!  :)

It could be SUBAR (for the Brits)  
Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
TeriAnn Wakeman
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 6:16 PM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand -SWAG

>> This is just a S.W.A.G. (Standard Wild Arse Guess)

> I believe that is Scientific Wild-Ass Guess.

Or there is just the generic WAG

Same thing without the disputed variable "S".

Either one can lead to a FUBAR

TeriAnn
_______________________________________________
spitlist at cox.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Oct 21 20:54:48 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 22:54:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
Message-ID: <000001c81456$eae1aae0$210110ac@bobspc>

First off.... Thanks to everyone who replied about my horn honking when I
turned left or right. It appears that only Bob Lang and I are using a Grant
Steering Wheel, Adapter and Horn components. I'm not using the stock TR6
set-up so I no longer have the horn thingie with the carbon brushes at each
end. If you want to see how the Grant horn components work and how I "fixed"
it, surf on over to http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HornRepair.htm

Thanks again

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.3/1082 - Release Date: 10/20/2007
2:59 PM

From soknacki at soknacki.com  Sun Oct 21 20:58:52 2007
From: soknacki at soknacki.com (David Soknacki)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 22:58:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 differential
Message-ID: <000601c81457$7a1c3b80$0b02a8c0@Ecom.local>

Fm   David Soknacki
     74 TR6 CF22072U
 
Two years and 8400 miles ago I replaced my very loud differential with one
that I bought 'as-is' for $200.
 
Until last month it worked well, but now there's a loud 'clunk' every time
the drive train is engaged. Even worse, I have a cracked frame near one of
the nuts holding the differential.
 
I don't see any choice about getting the frame welded.
 
But what about the differential? 
    Do I find another 'as-is'?
    Or do members recommend getting mine rebuilt? Is the going rate really
about $900?
 
Any advice welcome.
 
Thanks so much.

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Oct 21 21:13:59 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 21:13:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] 2007 VTR Se Regional at Jekyll
Message-ID: <471C1577.9070009@tscusa.org>

Some of my members have already shown me photos of a Stag or two at 
Jekyll Island for the VTR 2007 SE Regional, and a couple of Stags at 
Eurofest 2007.

Anyone have any more reports and photosfrom either of these two shows????

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Oct 21 21:26:24 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 03:26:24 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand -SWAG
Message-ID: <102220070326.19614.471C1860000D58A300004C9E22070215739D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Glenn A. Merrell" <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
> pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> >> Glenn Merrell wrote:
> >>     
> >>> This is just a S.W.A.G. (Standard Wild Arse Guess)
> >>>       
> >
> > I believe that is Scientific Wild-Ass Guess.
> >
> > --
> > Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
> >   
> Adapted for the situation Phil ... ;-)
> i.e. "Standard Triumph" relative to ... aw... forget it ...

OK.  I get it.

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sun Oct 21 22:08:52 2007
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 00:08:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 differential
In-Reply-To: <000601c81457$7a1c3b80$0b02a8c0@Ecom.local>
References: <000601c81457$7a1c3b80$0b02a8c0@Ecom.local>
Message-ID: <8C9E2786432B4DC-7C8-2535@FWM-D32.sysops.aol.com>

 David,

You may not have anything wrong with the differential as the clunk you hear is typical when the differential mount fails.? If I were you, I would repair the frame first, remount the differential and see if the repair to the frame takes care of your clunk.? My money is that it will.? Many of us have been there and done that.? Check out my experience and how it was repaired at triumphowners.com/108 under the picture section titled Differential Mount Reinforcement Repair.? Send another post or two to the list if you have more or specific quesitons.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: David Soknacki <soknacki at soknacki.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 10:58 pm
Subject: [TR] TR6 differential










Fm   David Soknacki
     74 TR6 CF22072U
 
Two years and 8400 miles ago I replaced my very loud differential with one
that I bought 'as-is' for $200.
 
Until last month it worked well, but now there's a loud 'clunk' every time
the drive train is engaged. Even worse, I have a cracked frame near one of
the nuts holding the differential.
 
I don't see any choice about getting the frame welded.
 
But what about the differential? 
    Do I find another 'as-is'?
    Or do members recommend getting mine rebuilt? Is the going rate really
about $900?
 
Any advice welcome.
 
Thanks so much.





 


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Oct 21 22:09:42 2007
From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 05:09:42 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Help..TR3 running on 2
In-Reply-To: <20071016085903.UHPOD.1794.root@eastrmwml03.mgt.cox.net>
Message-ID: <1486.25993.qm@web27410.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi Bob,
  I recently had a similar problem. I swapped the jet assemblies between the 2 carbs (on Strombergs, not sure if you can with SUs) and the problem moved to to other 2 cylinders. I then swapped them back and replaced the jet on the offending assembly and it now works perfectly. On close examination of the old jet it can be seen that it is out of round ie must be worn down by a badly centred needle.
  If not that, the problem definitely seems to be carburetion rather than electrical.
  Good luck,
  Chris

tr3bob at cox.net wrote:
  Hi listers,

This is my first question from this new address.

I know there was a thread at one point or another, but I'm a little frustrated with this chronic problem.

My TR3A has about 4000 miles on a fresh engine. I rebuilt the carbs when I did the engine and thought everything was OK. 

I understood that the Triumph motor needed a heavy choke when first starting, but it has always run rough until it reached temperature. 

This rough starting has gotten worse over the last few months so that even at temperature it doesn't settle down completely. 

Last night I did a little investigating. While it was idling rough, I pulled the wires off cylinders 3 and 4 with no change. I pulled the plugs and found 3 and 4 clean while 1 and 2 were extremely rich....rear carb??? I checked the float bowls, needle valves and pistons on the H6's....all seemed OK. Installed fresh plugs...no change. Cleaned the points and contacts in the distributor cap...no change.

Hmmmmm....Should I replace the plug wires....distributor cap....reset the valves?? 

What gives?...I'm just a little frustrated with this. Has anyone else had this problem?

TIA

Bob Stahlbush
_______________________________________________
chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

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From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Oct 21 23:20:07 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 23:20:07 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
In-Reply-To: <667760.67172.qm@web81708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20071022052005.23C0C1879CD@autox.team.net>

Kurt,
You could tell everyone one to look at page #37.  But it is indeed a grand
issue all the way though!
B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kurt
Johnson
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 6:55 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand

http://www.britishmotoring.net/Archives/2004_Summer.pdf



--- "Glenn A. Merrell" <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
wrote:

> pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> >> Glenn Merrell wrote:
> >>     
> >>> This is just a S.W.A.G. (Standard Wild Arse
> Guess)
> >>>       
> >
> > I believe that is Scientific Wild-Ass Guess.
> >
> > --
> > Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
> >   
> Adapted for the situation Phil ... ;-) i.e. "Standard Triumph" 
> relative to ... aw... forget it ...
> 
> --
> Glenn A. Merrell
> Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are 
> miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the 
> windshield!
> _______________________________________________
> kajohns64 at yahoo.com
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 10/21/2007
3:09 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 10/21/2007
3:09 PM

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Mon Oct 22 04:15:36 2007
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 12:15:36 +0200
Subject: [TR] Grinding aluminum
References: <7701E054-4CA5-47D3-8DB5-E799BA62DD4D@ipns.com>
	<810A2F49-EB36-4353-A21A-3569FD4C3601@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <005f01c81494$7f741b10$0500a8c0@Study>

I was taught that before using a file on aluminium you rubbed chalk over the 
teeth. We used to use a card with stiff wire bristles (I think it was called 
a file card) to clean the file afterwards.
I still do this and it works well.
Did'nt post earlier as it was all about ally and grinding wheels. (Not 
recommended back then)

Better late than never.

David Brister. 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 5654 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
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From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 04:45:40 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 06:45:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] Help..TR3 running on 2
Message-ID: <d0d.1dc89454.344dd954@aol.com>

Bob,
Make sure your cold start (aka choke) on both carbs is working the  same.  
That the jets are pulled down evenly and that they both return  to proper 
position when the choke is pushed in.  The cable and lever setup  can be a little 
funky on the H6s.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Mon Oct 22 05:51:21 2007
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 04:51:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
In-Reply-To: <009201c8145f$4ab195e0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
References: <20071020235439.074621879CE@autox.team.net><006101c813ee$9499a2e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<471B86F2.2030002@tscusa.org><007701c8140d$dcddc170$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<471BE29E.9020900@razzolink.com>
	<009201c8145f$4ab195e0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
Message-ID: <471C8EB9.5020908@razzolink.com>

Michael Marr wrote:
> Hi, TeriAnn:
> 
> I saw an MGB once that had the VW 1.8 litre gas engine mounted in it.  
> this is the engine that was canted to one side so that it fit under the 
> low hood of the Rabbit and Scirocco.  It was a very, very nice 
> conversion and made me start to thinkin'...

Increased HP and 50 MPG are strong incentives.  On the other hand it 
means totally destroying the resale value.

There is a company that makes adapters to fit the VW diesels to Toyota 5 
speed gearboxes.

www.acmeadapters.com

I think about this when I stop at a gas station.

TeriAnn

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Oct 22 05:58:39 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 07:58:39 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 differential
Message-ID: <c0c.216f9aac.344dea6f@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/21/2007 9:59:22 PM Central Daylight Time, 
soknacki at soknacki.com writes: 
> But what about the differential? 
>     Do I find another 'as-is'?
>     Or do members recommend getting mine rebuilt? Is the going rate really
> about $900?
> 
A third alternative is to check out Richard Goode's Nissan diff conversion 
kit.  He sells a ready to go Kit with all the adapters for mounting and 
attaching driveline components for considerably less than $900.

And you get posi-drive as part of the deal.

Dave   

From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Oct 22 07:21:25 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 09:21:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] front clip reinstallation?
References: <000a01c81374$506acdd0$9194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <005e01c814ae$7308a2f0$5918e247@DCS78M81>

If you feed a longer bolt up from the bottom and put a capture nut on it, 
the radiator then sits on the bolt and it's really easy to put lock washer 
and nut from the top side of the radiator. Feeding the bolt from the top and 
trying to start the nut from the bottom is much more problematic. In my 
opinion, it's a good fix. Pusher fan is good if you live in a warm climate -
Tom
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag

>    Actually, I do think I've heard of a suggestion and possibly might 
> follow
> it: it is to remove the radiator by lifting it off it's 3/16" mounting 
> bolts
> and replace them with 5/16" bolts as this makes something easier??  (This
> sounds like just creating an extra step!)
>
>    Is there anything I need to include or change since I've never done 
> this
> before?  It's been years since I disassembled the car.
>
> Thanks Much in advance,
> Paul Dorsey- 60 TR3
> _______________________________________________
> tfansher at comcast.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Oct 22 07:45:37 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 13:45:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] Grinding aluminum
Message-ID: <102220071345.8680.471CA981000DFEE3000021E822028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "David Brister" <david.brister at wanadoo.fr>
> I was taught that before using a file on aluminium you rubbed chalk over the 
> teeth. We used to use a card with stiff wire bristles (I think it was called 
> a file card)

Yes.  A file cleaner is called a "file card" because it resembles a tool called a "card" which was used (in pairs) to prepare wool for spinning, a process called "carding".

>  to clean the file afterwards.

Many file cards you can buy have a place on the back were you store a sharp pick used to pry out of the file bits of metal resistant to the wires in the file card.


--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From homefactsinspect at tampabay.rr.com  Mon Oct 22 07:53:32 2007
From: homefactsinspect at tampabay.rr.com (cbellish)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 09:53:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] parts for dale
Message-ID: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAACAezBpj4I0qTpILneZvA6MKAAAAQAAAAQP99ven92Uu/nL3BLEH2+AEAAAAA@tampabay.rr.com>

I havent posted much at all, mostly reading and learning. I use to own a 73
tr6 I sold to a follow in al.  Restoring another car and only had enough
room for 2 cars. And didnt want to push the patience of my neighbors.

With all this in mind I have a boat load of tr6 parts for sale. Not a fan of
ebay but that will be my last avenue. Some of the items follows:

Rebuilt diff

= shafts

gas tank

2 engines

camshafts

excellent shape sterring wheels

gages

dash boardl good driver condondion

manuls (bently, Haynes, and the electrical book)

misc interior pcs.

3 trannys all working (sorry no od)

lites, lenes

etc,ect,etc

call or em if interested in anything.

Also seats in great shapes no rust low back just need to be redone.





Chuck Bellish

Home Facts Inspections, Inc.

Phone: 727.580.2211

Email:  homefactsinspect at tampabay.rr.com

  Web:  www.homefactsinspections.info

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 22 08:17:03 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 14:17:03 +0000
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W25975FF581C5F52970365BE59A0@phx.gbl>

I attended the Autumn Classic car show in San Juan Batista yesterday.  A fine
car show.  It is the first time I have ever seen Nash Healeys in a show and
the first time I have seen two original Cobras in the same show.  Lots of well
prepped cars of all descriptions.  I wish I had taken my camera with me.

It was a good outing for my TR3A too.  It ran flawlessly there and back.
After 39 years I have it in a state I am satisfied with.  Although this winter
I plan to do a cam change and some maintenance items.

Does anyone have a referral for a good place in the south bay of San Francisco
to have TR3A leaf springs re-arced?

Best regards,
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last.  Get it
now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971
033

From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Oct 22 08:25:11 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 10:25:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 tenax tool
Message-ID: <002301c814b7$5b48af80$5918e247@DCS78M81>

The tenax sockets can be a problem to loosen to get the top off. Obin Hamrick
from the Tallahassee VTR club told me that a friend of his made a tool by
grinding a 3/8" open end wrench thinner and it worked great.  I made mine this
morning then painted it bright red to help be find it. It will be in the
drivers side pocket with the T wrench.
Hope someone else can benefit from this.
Tom
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag

From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Oct 22 08:30:09 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 10:30:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
References: <BAY110-W25975FF581C5F52970365BE59A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002801c814b8$0d06da30$5918e247@DCS78M81>

Joe Alexander is in the process of manufacturing an improved silent bloc 
which you might take a look at. It's not in production yet but may be when 
you're ready for them. I had a terrible time removing the bolt from the 
front of the rear spring - through the silent bloc - let me know if you have 
problems and I'll share what I know.
Tom
61 TR3A with new rear springs
62 TR4 needing new rear springs
73 Stag

.

> Does anyone have a referral for a good place in the south bay of San 
> Francisco
> to have TR3A leaf springs re-arced?
>
> Best regards,
> Tom

From mmarr at notwires.com  Mon Oct 22 08:51:07 2007
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 09:51:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Grinding aluminum
References: <102220071345.8680.471CA981000DFEE3000021E822028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003801c814ba$fb542f10$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

On page 2552 of the McMaster Carr catalog, you will find a collection of 
silicon carbide, rubber bonded grinding wheels that are "ideal for 
nonferrous metals such as aluminum, brass, bronze, and magnesium."

Mike 

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Mon Oct 22 09:13:42 2007
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 08:13:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Engine Stand
In-Reply-To: <002f01c814b9$91ed4350$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
References: <20071020235439.074621879CE@autox.team.net><006101c813ee$9499a2e0$0201a8c0@Bevan><471B86F2.2030002@tscusa.org><007701c8140d$dcddc170$0201a8c0@Bevan><471BE29E.9020900@razzolink.com><009201c8145f$4ab195e0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
	<471C8EB9.5020908@razzolink.com>
	<002f01c814b9$91ed4350$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
Message-ID: <471CBE26.9020504@razzolink.com>

Michael Marr wrote:
> I might think of doing the diesel conversion to a B (they were as common 
> as muck, after all) but it just doesn't seem to fit the sidescreen persona.


That's why I haven't done it. I'm more likely to do it to a Morris 
Traveler if I do it at all.

TeriAnn

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Mon Oct 22 09:45:15 2007
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 11:45:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR250 Running Problems
Message-ID: <380-2200710122154515937@earthlink.net>

I know you stated you had "over half a tank" of gas, but is there any chance it was lower than that? If so, were you making sharp left hand turns at the time it died? If so, it's just the old problem with TR250 fuel tanks: no internal surge baffles. The Brits were just learning how to make 6-cylinder sports cars without Petrol Injection...

Worth a try, anyway. Cheers, Tom


"Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" Henry David Thoreau

http://www.triumphowners.com/735

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Oct 22 10:58:45 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 16:58:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] fuel mixture
Message-ID: <102220071658.25738.471CD6C50001915C0000648A22165258569C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

General Question:  I had the original metal air cleaners on the dual carbs for my '59 TR3A.  I did switch to paper filters.
Would the paper be a harder draw-through, maybe restricting air, making the car run richer than before?  In other words, does switching to paper necessarily mean I should lean the mixture by an 8th of a turn, something like that?
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From team.net at daveola.com  Mon Oct 22 15:38:14 2007
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 14:38:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] An *oops* day, and a question about Aprons.
Message-ID: <E1Ik540-00009h-00@dave.getdave.com>

Driving my TR3A on this beautiful day I was coming up to a stop.
I pressed my brake a little off to the side, and the brake pad
popped off.  And so did my foot.  (Off the brake, not off my leg :).

And that's how I managed to crush the front apron on my car today.

*sigh*

Anyways, I was looking into replacing the apron (I'm pretty sure
mine can't be restored), and this brings up an interesting question
for me regarding wide-mouth vs non-wide-mouth grill.

Allegedly, the grill switched to wide-mouth for the TR3A, however
I know that often these switches took some time and didn't always
shift exactly with the first model of a new line.

According to vtr.org:

  In 1958, Triumph opened up the grill to increase air flow and the
  TR3A "wide mouth" was born.

However, the first TR3As (including mine) were actually built in 1957.
I don't know if that's a mistake on vtr or not.  According to Bill
Piggot the wide-mouth *did* occur with the first TR3A.

My car is the 113th TR3A, built in Sept of 57, the first month
that TR3As were built, so I'm considering the possibility that it
was originally *not* a wide mouth car.

I have no idea if this is the original apron from my car, so that's
not much of an indicator.

Anyways, I have a feeling there's no way to find out the truth,
but does anyone have any thoughts on where to get more info?  Or
if I should just trust Bill, perhaps?


Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415 341-5555
------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Oct 22 15:56:16 2007
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 17:56:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] An *oops* day, and a question about Aprons.
In-Reply-To: <E1Ik540-00009h-00@dave.getdave.com>
References: <E1Ik540-00009h-00@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <20071022215635.40817187A53@autox.team.net>

pardon my crassness but that a real bummer.

Sorry

Doug

At 05:38 PM 10/22/2007, David Ljung Madison wrote:
>And that's how I managed to crush the front apron on my car today.

From motorcarriage at charter.net  Mon Oct 22 16:04:25 2007
From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 18:04:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] An *oops* day, and a question about Aprons.
References: <E1Ik540-00009h-00@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <017701c814f7$8251b690$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571>

Hi Dave,
     I couldn't help but include this informative bit of production dates 
that I received from Steve Ball last week. I would say your car had the 
largemouth grille, especially if it has the rest of the 3A features like 
door and trunk handles etc. Below is what I received.
Regards,
Wayne Lee
Douglas,MA
58 TR3
64 TR4
75 TR6

----- Original Message ----- 
"Hello Wayne,

I couldn't resist writing when I saw your message about your TR3, TS 25248L. 
About 10 years ago I sold what thought would be my last TR3A, TS 25236L...a 
very close cousin to your car.

We had that car for about 10 years before selling (a long story), but the 
car did generate a bit of interest, as yours probably does too, because it 
is one of a small number of 3A's built in 1957.  These were the earliest 
TR3A's, and although they didn't reach the US until '58, technically 
everybody thinks of them as '57 TR3A's.  There were only about 3600 A's 
built in '57, starting in September with TS 22014, to TS 25632.  Mine was 
commissioned in early-mid December (I think it was around the 12th, but I 
don't recall the exact date) and it's entirely possible yours was 
commissioned on the same day.

Ours was not a show car, just a driver, but we went to shows anyway, and 
many times people came up and said it was nice to see one of the 
"survivors", meaning the '57 TR3A's.

Have fun with it.  I'm restoring another one now, TS 68164L, a '60 3A which 
I acquired for "free".  That's a laugh....believe me, there is no such thing 
as a FREE car!
Steve Ball"


From: "David Ljung Madison" <team.net at daveola.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 5:38 PM
Subject: [TR] An *oops* day, and a question about Aprons.

>
> Anyways, I was looking into replacing the apron (I'm pretty sure
> mine can't be restored), and this brings up an interesting question
> for me regarding wide-mouth vs non-wide-mouth grill.
>
> Allegedly, the grill switched to wide-mouth for the TR3A, however
> I know that often these switches took some time and didn't always
> shift exactly with the first model of a new line.
>
> According to vtr.org:
>
>  In 1958, Triumph opened up the grill to increase air flow and the
>  TR3A "wide mouth" was born.
>
> However, the first TR3As (including mine) were actually built in 1957.
> I don't know if that's a mistake on vtr or not.  According to Bill
> Piggot the wide-mouth *did* occur with the first TR3A.
>
> My car is the 113th TR3A, built in Sept of 57, the first month
> that TR3As were built, so I'm considering the possibility that it
> was originally *not* a wide mouth car.
>
> I have no idea if this is the original apron from my car, so that's
> not much of an indicator.
>
> Anyways, I have a feeling there's no way to find out the truth,
> but does anyone have any thoughts on where to get more info?  Or
> if I should just trust Bill, perhaps?

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Oct 22 16:12:02 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 23:12:02 +0100
Subject: [TR] An *oops* day, and a question about Aprons.
References: <E1Ik540-00009h-00@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <003c01c814f8$937f7d70$0201a8c0@Bevan>

David Ljung Madison wrote

>  In 1958, Triumph opened up the grill to increase air flow and the
>  TR3A "wide mouth" was born.
> However, the first TR3As (including mine) were actually built in 1957.
> I don't know if that's a mistake on vtr or not.  According to Bill
> Piggot the wide-mouth *did* occur with the first TR3A.
> My car is the 113th TR3A, built in Sept of 57, the first month
> that TR3As were built, so I'm considering the possibility that it
> was originally *not* a wide mouth car.
> I have no idea if this is the original apron from my car, so that's
> not much of an indicator.
> Anyways, I have a feeling there's no way to find out the truth,
> but does anyone have any thoughts on where to get more info?  Or
> if I should just trust Bill, perhaps?

Dave, presumably you have a Heritage Certificate to confirm the build date? 
The fact your car was built in Sept 1957 is entirely possible and I'd guess 
it was built as a widemouth as well.
Why so early?
Shipping the car from the UK to the US took at least two to three weeks 
voyage - more if to a Gulf or Pacific port. There would have been a lot of 
'hanging around' in transit parks in the UK and at the UK ports as well. 
Building in Sept was to ensure the new variant was the 1958 model when it 
hit the showroom. That's why they had to start building them early

Jonmac

From team.net at daveola.com  Mon Oct 22 16:15:36 2007
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 15:15:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] An *oops* day, and a question about Aprons.
In-Reply-To: <003c01c814f8$937f7d70$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <E1Ik540-00009h-00@dave.getdave.com>
	<003c01c814f8$937f7d70$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <E1Ik5Zh-0000Mm-00@dave.getdave.com>

Jonmac wrote:
> Dave, presumably you have a Heritage Certificate to confirm the build date? 

Yup:

http://triumph.Daveola.com/TS22126L.html

September 20th, 1957, to be precise.  It just had it's 50th birthday
last month.  :)

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415 341-5555
------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Oct 22 16:51:46 2007
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 15:51:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] removal of fan extension and benevolent commercial message
In-Reply-To: <F9D48269-B132-4EB9-AD3A-4B23EA190FE8@cox.net>
References: <d26.169faf3b.344d094f@cs.com>
	<F9D48269-B132-4EB9-AD3A-4B23EA190FE8@cox.net>
Message-ID: <p06240800c342d9bf9f32@[67.182.76.234]>

I found it simpler to wedge the wrench on the frame, and  the hit 
the starter  button,  bolt comes  right out ...


>After a lot of good advice I have the fan extension off and replaced 
>with a Fan elimination kit from Rick Patten at TBI Conversions  
>http://www.Sidedrafttbi.com (NFI).  I was successful after heating up 
>the dog bolt with a propane torch & then using a 1 1/8' socket with 
>my electric impact wrench!
>
>I can send out a picture of the installed fan eliminator to anyone 
>who is interested in seeing it.
>
>Again thanks for the help
>


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon Oct 22 17:02:58 2007
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 19:02:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
References: <BAY110-W25975FF581C5F52970365BE59A0@phx.gbl>
	<002801c814b8$0d06da30$5918e247@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <00e201c814ff$b10f3900$6401a8c0@STATION6>

As a follow up to Tom's post, here is how I did it. First if you take the 
tub off the frame there is no problem. Using a drift it will pop out with a 
good blow. With the tub on, a real challenge. One came out for me per the 
book, with the help of heat and penetrant. The other forget it. What I did 
was remove the aluminum stone guard. Located the bolt behind where the guard 
is. Drilled a 9/16" hole. Placed the drift square on the head of the bolt 
and popped it right out. Put a rubber plug in the hole (used on the firewall 
and elsewhere) and put it all back together. Very slick and fast.
Alex
59 TR3A
72 TR6
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "THOMAS FANSHER" <tfansher at comcast.net>
To: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs


> Joe Alexander is in the process of manufacturing an improved silent bloc
> which you might take a look at. It's not in production yet but may be when
> you're ready for them. I had a terrible time removing the bolt from the
> front of the rear spring - through the silent bloc - let me know if you 
> have
> problems and I'll share what I know.
> Tom
> 61 TR3A with new rear springs
> 62 TR4 needing new rear springs
> 73 Stag
>
> .
>
>> Does anyone have a referral for a good place in the south bay of San
>> Francisco
>> to have TR3A leaf springs re-arced?
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Tom
> _______________________________________________

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 19:43:31 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 21:43:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
Message-ID: <bd9.1f0674e6.344eabc3@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/22/2007 6:12:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ambritts at bellsouth.net writes:

First if  you take the 
tub off the frame there is no  problem.


There is no problem with what?  The PO changed the drivers side  rear spring 
on my 3A along with the pin, but apparently ran into the same  problem that I 
am having with the passenger side so he put it all back  together.  I have 
about a 1/2 inch sag on the passenger side. The body  is off and the drivers side 
slid nicely apart.  On the passenger side  I used a puller to remove the 
spring and the silentbloc but the inside steel  collar remained siezed to the pin. 
 The rubber tore and the spring came  off.  I then cut a grove in the 
remaining collar and split that off.   Now for the pin.  There is a problem.  I am 
hesitant as to how  much I want to wail on the threaded end because if I damage 
it and absolutely  cannot get that pin out, I am, how you say?. . .screwed.   
I have  given it mighty blows with a brass three pound hammer and it scoffs at 
me.   I am going to spray PB Blaster on it for the next two or three days and 
try  again.  The bearing surface of the pin is fine but I do not want to  
reassemble a freshly painted body on this should I break a spring sometime in  
the future and cannot get it out.  The body would then have to come off  again.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 19:51:36 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 21:51:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
Message-ID: <d51.15a4cbbd.344eada8@aol.com>

I had this problem and ultimately here;s what I did. it ain't pretty but it  
works.
 
When you look at the rear gravel shields, there are two pieces: the big  
piece and a little "slipper" shaped piece.
 
If you remove the small piece you can drill a hole, maybe 3/8 inch in  
diameter which will be competely hidden when you replace the slipper piece. get  a 
long punch and I found you want it to be as large a diameter as you can manage  
because a small punch simply peens over the end. It ought to be 5/16 at least 
 (same size as the end of the pin).
 
I also cut a hole in a 2x6 to sort of protect the body if i missed with the  
16# sledge hammer I used. (Buy a new bolt).
 
Make the hole you drilled tidy and paint it as someone may use it  again some 
day!
Best, Mike Moore  



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Oct 22 20:29:58 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 22:29:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Aluminum
Message-ID: <000001c8151c$9f5d7970$210110ac@bobspc>

Ok... We've talked about grinding aluminum but how about cleaning it? I've
got a Toyota 5 speed transmission (W58) sitting in the garage that I plan on
putting in my TR6 using Herman's conversion kit. But what's the best way to
clean the aluminum case AND the area under the gear shift housing? Is it bad
to use a high pressure power washer in the box under that gear shift
housing? That's the are where the gear shift does its thing shifting through
the gears. There's a few shafts and some worm type gears under there. 

Then there's the case housing itself........cover it with grease/parts
cleaner and blast away with the power washer?

Any suggestions or experience welcome.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 10/21/2007
3:09 PM

From rickandcecilia at comcast.net  Mon Oct 22 20:50:00 2007
From: rickandcecilia at comcast.net (Rick & Cecilia)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 22:50:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Aluminum
References: <000001c8151c$9f5d7970$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <041e01c8151f$67ca2690$6401a8c0@joshua>

I used brake clean at first to gat the first coating of grime off.  Then 
another dose of brake clean.  After drying, I took a dremel with a wire 
wheel attachment that could get into the smaller areas and, with a 6 pack by 
my side, and some great 70s tunes, went to towm for about 3 hours.  The 
results are great!

Rick

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "'6-Pack List Serve'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: "'Joe Merone'" <jmerone at rocketmail.com>; <AEGDesign at aol.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 10:29 PM
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Aluminum


> Ok... We've talked about grinding aluminum but how about cleaning it? I've
> got a Toyota 5 speed transmission (W58) sitting in the garage that I plan 
> on
> putting in my TR6 using Herman's conversion kit. But what's the best way 
> to
> clean the aluminum case AND the area under the gear shift housing? Is it 
> bad
> to use a high pressure power washer in the box under that gear shift
> housing? That's the are where the gear shift does its thing shifting 
> through
> the gears. There's a few shafts and some worm type gears under there.
>
> Then there's the case housing itself........cover it with grease/parts
> cleaner and blast away with the power washer?
>
> Any suggestions or experience welcome.
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 
> 10/21/2007
> 3:09 PM

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 21:08:29 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 23:08:29 EDT
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Aluminum
Message-ID: <d27.16c1133d.344ebfad@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/22/2007 7:50:15 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
rickandcecilia at comcast.net writes:

The  
results are great!

Rick



Rick, did the results still look great the next morning?  :-))
Mike Moore 



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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 22 21:10:47 2007
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 23:10:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Cleaning Aluminum
Message-ID: <caf.1f5b3545.344ec037@cs.com>

Bob,

As a final step there are some very powerful chemicals out there that make 
the Aluminum look like new....carefully used.

I got some from an aluminum fabricator and now dont have a name of the 
chemical.

Joe A


> Ok... We've talked about grinding aluminum but how about cleaning it? I've
> got a Toyota 5 speed transmission (W58) sitting in the garage that I plan on
> putting in my TR6 using Herman's conversion kit. But what's the best way to
> clean the aluminum case AND the area under the gear shift housing? Is it bad
> to use a high pressure power washer in the box under that gear shift
> housing? That's the are where the gear shift does its thing shifting through
> the gears. There's a few shafts and some worm type gears under there. 
> 
> Then there's the case housing itself........cover it with grease/parts
> cleaner and blast away with the power washer?
> 
> Any suggestions or experience welcome.
> 
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
> 
> 
> 

   </HTML>

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Oct 22 21:19:20 2007
From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 21:19:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] An *oops* day, and a question about Aprons.
Message-ID: <93636C10-DE2B-47E9-AEE8-77F26D40A2A1@telus.net>

David
  back in the 50's, new car introductions took place in September so  
even though you have a build date in 57 the car would take time to A:  
sit in the yard and gather it' first coat of fine British rust. B: Be  
transported to the docks where it could sit in the storage yard in  
good damp salt sea air. C: be transported across the ocean either on  
deck where it could receive fresh sea spray showers or in the dark  
damp hold...D:Sit in the port of entry storage yard, handily located  
on ocean front property whilst awaiting bureaucratic  
disembarkation.E: go for a scenic ride by train or truck to it's  
destined dealer all in time for it's debut as "The New Triumph TR3A!"  
Complete with Original British Rust.

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 04:51:49 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 06:51:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Aluminum
Message-ID: <d6a.fe21ce9.344f2c45@aol.com>

One thing to keep in mind when cleaning the tranny.  You can make it  look 
like a jewel if you like.  Degreaser and a power washer will make it  look good. 
 If you make it look like a jewel you are then going to bolt it  up behind 
the motor that, more likely than not, leaks oil, and it will  quite rapidly just 
look good. 
But then, that's just my experience.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 05:00:31 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 07:00:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or Pull
Message-ID: <bc9.1a924e04.344f2e4f@aol.com>

I am going to eliminate my fan on my 3A and install a 12" electric  fan.  
Opinions have been offered as to push or pull.  Surprisingly, a  common one is to 
install as a pull because as a push the fan blocks too  much air flow.  In my 
opinion that is not accurate as the radiator  does not care which side the 
blockage (if there is one) is on.  I would  prefer that the electric fan not be 
seen from inside the engine bay.  What  say those with experience in this? 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From twakeman at razzolink.com  Tue Oct 23 05:22:29 2007
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 04:22:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Aluminum
In-Reply-To: <d6a.fe21ce9.344f2c45@aol.com>
References: <d6a.fe21ce9.344f2c45@aol.com>
Message-ID: <471DD975.7020706@razzolink.com>

First of all, since it is a non stock gearbox I think I can safely 
assume you are building a driver and not a concourse showboat. so there 
is no reason to make the gearbox look new.

Get a can or two of engine degreaser advertised as OK for aluminum 
engines and follow the directions.  There is no need to overly clean or 
polish a gearbox that is going to sit behind an engine, out of site and 
exposed to what the road throws at it.  If you are not going to open it 
up, just get the surface grease off and offer it up.

If it were me with a used gearbox on the ground that will go into a 
driver, I'd open it up to give it an inspection & at least renew the 
syncros.  But thats admittedly because I don't like working on cars & 
want as long an interval as possible between bouts of shipfitters disease.

TeriAnn

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 05:55:50 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 07:55:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
Message-ID: <c26.221557cb.344f3b46@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/22/2007 4:12:10 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
ambritts at bellsouth.net writes:

As a  follow up to Tom's post, here is how I did it. First if you take the 
tub  off the frame there is no problem. Using a drift it will pop out with a  
good blow. With the tub on, a real challenge. One came out for me per the  
book, with the help of heat and penetrant. The other forget it. What I did  
was remove the aluminum stone guard. Located the bolt behind where the  guard 
is. Drilled a 9/16" hole. Placed the drift square on the head of the  bolt 
and popped it right out. Put a rubber plug in the hole (used on the  firewall 
and elsewhere) and put it all back together. Very slick and  fast.
Alex
59 TR3A
72 TR6



Same here-I drilled it so the hole is under the aluminum piece.
Mike Moore 



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From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Tue Oct 23 06:01:43 2007
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 08:01:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] 2007 VTR Se Regional at Jekyll
In-Reply-To: <471C1577.9070009@tscusa.org>
References: <471C1577.9070009@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <6E6AA501-9ED6-482C-9194-1BD6E5FBFE8C@mindspring.com>

Glenn and all,

I have quite a few photos of the event and hope to have them up on  
the web in a day or so.


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6



On Oct 21, 2007, at 11:13 PM, Glenn A. Merrell wrote:

> Some of my members have already shown me photos of a Stag or two at
> Jekyll Island for the VTR 2007 SE Regional, and a couple of Stags at
> Eurofest 2007.
>
> Anyone have any more reports and photosfrom either of these two  
> shows????
>
> -- 
> Glenn A. Merrell
> Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
> The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the  
> paint, dead bugs on the windshield!
> _______________________________________________
> 70tr6 at mindspring.com
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Oct 23 06:16:55 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 08:16:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or Pull
Message-ID: <c8f.1894b288.344f4037@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/23/2007 6:01:09 AM Central Daylight Time, 
DLylis at aol.com writes: 
> I am going to eliminate my fan on my 3A and install a 12" electric  fan.  
> Opinions have been offered as to push or pull.  Surprisingly, a  common one 
> is to 
> install as a pull because as a push the fan blocks too  much air flow.  In 
> my 
> opinion that is not accurate as the radiator  does not care which side the 
> blockage (if there is one) is on.  I would  prefer that the electric fan not 
> be 
> seen from inside the engine bay.  What  say those with experience in this? 
> 
If you are going to mount the fan right up against the radiator then I agree 
with your assessment.  But better results are achieved by spacing the fan a 
bit away from the radiator.  This allows the air to distribute across the face 
of the radiator for more effective cooling.  But this only works if you 
fabricate a shroud to direct the air flow through the radiator.  Here's some 
anecdotal evidence:

A friend with an MGA with a Buick 215 conversion was having trouble keeping 
cool at low vehicle speeds.  He had an electric fan mounted as a pusher.  Using 
the same fan he fabricated a shroud and mounted the fan a couple of inches 
away from the radiator and the difference was like night and day.

Putting this in context, there is more space in front of the radiator than 
behind so setting it up as a pusher makes the most sense if you were to go this 
route.

Dave Massey   

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Tue Oct 23 06:26:37 2007
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 08:26:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or Pull
References: <bc9.1a924e04.344f2e4f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c8156f$f57f8f70$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>

Yes, actually it does.  Well documented in fluid flow studies.

You can generally make a pusher type work well enough.  If you are 
determined that is the route you wish to take, go for it.  You've got a 
temperature gauge which will let you know if it's working well enough.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <tfansher at comcast.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 7:00 AM
Subject: [TR] Push or Pull


>In my opinion that is not accurate as the radiator does not care which side 
>the
> blockage (if there is one) is on. 

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Tue Oct 23 06:44:55 2007
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 13:44:55 +0100
Subject: [TR] Points Q
Message-ID: <1193143495.471decc7de6c5@mymail.tcd.ie>

On preparing to try and start my re-built motor and checking things over
beforehand, with the points closed and the ignition on, if I manually open
the
points, should I see it arcing, i.e a spark?. Also any thoughts on trying the
very initial start up without coolant in the system?
Regards
John, closer and closer
1954 TR2

John Gillis
Senior Conservator

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Tue Oct 23 07:33:41 2007
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 09:33:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Points Q
References: <1193143495.471decc7de6c5@mymail.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <001f01c81579$54135b80$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>

Frequently you will see arcing.

You can fire up safely without coolant.  There's enough thermal mass present 
to handle it.  Don't run it for long that way.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Gillis" <jgillis at tcd.ie>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 8:44 AM
Subject: [TR] Points Q


> On preparing to try and start my re-built motor and checking things over
> beforehand, with the points closed and the ignition on, if I manually open
> the
> points, should I see it arcing, i.e a spark?. Also any thoughts on trying 
> the
> very initial start up without coolant in the system?
> Regards
> John, closer and closer
> 1954 TR2

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Tue Oct 23 07:43:06 2007
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 06:43:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Aluminum
In-Reply-To: <471DD975.7020706@razzolink.com>
Message-ID: <430655.11962.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

List---I agree with TAW, if you spend the $$$ on Hermans kit, then spending another $600 on a rebuild makes a lot of sense.  I sent mine to a co. in Florida and for a set fee of $600 they R&R and replace anything that it needs.  Very sastified.  Co. is ManTran and you can contact via the internet.  Cost me $60 each way via Fedx from MI.  Good Luck

TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman at razzolink.com> wrote:  First of all, since it is a non stock gearbox I think I can safely 
assume you are building a driver and not a concourse showboat. so there 
is no reason to make the gearbox look new.

Get a can or two of engine degreaser advertised as OK for aluminum 
engines and follow the directions. There is no need to overly clean or 
polish a gearbox that is going to sit behind an engine, out of site and 
exposed to what the road throws at it. If you are not going to open it 
up, just get the surface grease off and offer it up.

If it were me with a used gearbox on the ground that will go into a 
driver, I'd open it up to give it an inspection & at least renew the 
syncros. But thats admittedly because I don't like working on cars & 
want as long an interval as possible between bouts of shipfitters disease.

TeriAnn
_______________________________________________
adcronin at ameritech.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs



Planning & Development Services
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Oct 23 08:34:03 2007
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 10:34:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Re:  Cleaning Aluminum
In-Reply-To: <d6a.fe21ce9.344f2c45@aol.com>
References: <d6a.fe21ce9.344f2c45@aol.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0710231030170.15153@ankh.mit.edu>

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 DLylis at aol.com wrote:

> One thing to keep in mind when cleaning the tranny.  You can make it  look
> like a jewel if you like.  Degreaser and a power washer will make it  look good.
> If you make it look like a jewel you are then going to bolt it  up behind
> the motor that, more likely than not, leaks oil, and it will  quite rapidly just
> look good.
> But then, that's just my experience.

My experience is quite the opposite. When I build a motor, it typically 
does not leak a drop. In fact, drips from either of my TR6's indicate that 
there's a problem.

Plus - I hate getting filthy taking the tranny in/out or when working on 
the motor.

I like to stay "ahead" of the problems if I can. Along those lines, I'll 
probably pull the motor out of the street car over the winter. 130k miles 
on the original pistons / bores and I finaly can't get ahead of the 
leakdown past the rings... that blowby makes the front seal leak quite a 
bit.

> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Room N42-140Q            |  This space for rent
Consultant            MIT IS&T unix-linux-help |
Voice:617-253-7438    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Tue Oct 23 08:46:05 2007
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 10:46:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <OF4D757598.CFDCABE6-ON8525737D.004EF1A2-8525737D.0051333C@gsk.com>

My instinct leads me to believe a puller will move more air through a 
radiator than a pusher.

However, the improvement in airflow with an electric fan, particularly 
when a car is at a standstill - whether you push or pull - is, in my view, 
plenty to keep a healthy car cool.

If you want the fan out of sight, set it up as a pusher.

Matt at Triumph Rescue told me that he can set running a number of cars 
with standard fans on a hot day (he was talking about TR3s at the time) 
that all appear identical. Some will overheat, some won't, and that's the 
way they are.

Maybe my experience could explain some of the variances? I removed the 
block's seized, brass, coolant valve on my 62 TR4 to replace it with a new 
working valve last year. With the car full of coolant, and the valve 
removed from the open threaded hole in the engine block, no coolant came 
out.

Puzzled, and unable to see inside, I poked around with the thin red straw 
from an aerosol lube. Slowly a trickle began, then sand started coming 
out, then globs of sand started coming out. Green, sparkly sand. At least 
an egg cup-full, maybe more. This was, I'm guessing, casting sand from the 
block's birth.

Lot's of back flushing later, and I had an open gallery inside the block 
that led from the valve's placement. My car, which never overheated even 
on a hot day, began to run, and runs still, two needle widths to the 
cooler side on the temp display, just left of centre in the 'normal range' 
on the gauge.

If your car tends to the warm side, and if you have such a valve in your 
block, open it (or remove it as I had to) to see if coolant runs out 
freely. If not, maybe you have some green, sparkly sand of your own.

Even if your gauge doesn't show a return, it has to help, surely.

Brian Jones
TR4 1962(3)

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 23 09:08:37 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:08:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
In-Reply-To: <00e201c814ff$b10f3900$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <BAY110-W25975FF581C5F52970365BE59A0@phx.gbl>
	<002801c814b8$0d06da30$5918e247@DCS78M81> 
	<00e201c814ff$b10f3900$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W2117B317782BAFBB1592EEE59B0@phx.gbl>

When I removed my front bolt for the rear springs they were rusted in place.
A friend came over who has bucu TR knowledge.  We got under the car with a
torch and heated the head of the bolts.  We heated them until we heard a
"pop". After the pop the bolts came out with very little difficulty.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!  Play Star Shuffle:  the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 23 09:09:10 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 08:09:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or Pull
In-Reply-To: <bc9.1a924e04.344f2e4f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071023150910.NKSQ24626.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> In my opinion that is not 
> accurate as the radiator  does not care which side the 
> blockage (if there is one) is on.

Thought experiment : take a bucket with a hole in the bottom.  Turn it
upside down and spray it with a hose.  Now turn it right side up and spray
it with a hose again.  Which way has more water flowing through the hole ?

>  I would  prefer that the 
> electric fan not be seen from inside the engine bay.  What  
> say those with experience in this? 

Cooling systems are funny things; basically you either have enough cooling
for the conditions at hand or you don't.  If you have enough, then
sacrificing some small amount for esthetics probably means you still have
enough.  But if the system was already marginal, then any little bit you
sacrifice MIGHT be enough to push it over the edge into "not enough".  My
experience is that a 'pusher' interferes with the ram-air effect and makes
the engine run slightly hotter at freeway speeds (even with the fan running,
which wouldn't normally be necessary).

The fan is also pretty well hidden on an assembled TR3/A; even with the
hood/bonnet open.  If someone is going to spot a puller from above, they
would probably notice a pusher through the grille as well.  Certainly they
will notice the alternator long before that.

BTW, IMO unless you live in a very moderate (or downright cool) climate, 12"
isn't enough for a single fan.  The 16" I used might be overkill, but I'm
glad I have it.

Also BTW, I once owned one of the very few production cars with a 'pusher'
fan.  It had noticeably fewer cooling problems after I followed the
factory's lead (on subsequent models) and converted to an electric puller
fan.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 23 09:14:45 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 08:14:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <OF4D757598.CFDCABE6-ON8525737D.004EF1A2-8525737D.0051333C@gsk.com>
Message-ID: <20071023151445.MILC25064.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>

> Even if your gauge doesn't show a return, it has to help, surely.

Yes indeed, this should be part of normal maintenance on all Triumphs.  Many
later cars don't have a valve in that hole, but AFAIK all of them have the
hole.  Every 2 years (when the coolant should be changed anyway), remove the
plug or open the valve, and flush the system until clean water run freely
from the hole.  Even without the casting sand that Brian found, rust
particles and sediment tend to build up in the back of the block, and this
flushing helps reduce (tho not eliminate) the buildup.

Randall

From dmb993 at earthlink.net  Tue Oct 23 09:24:25 2007
From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (David Brady)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 11:24:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or Pull
In-Reply-To: <20071023150910.NKSQ24626.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>
References: <20071023150910.NKSQ24626.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <471E1229.3060204@earthlink.net>

There's no question the puller works better. With a puller
on my TR250 I can get away with a 1200 cfm fan, using
a pusher I need 2100 cfm. I run a pusher cause I like the
unobstructed access to the crank pulley bolt - useful
for attaching a spanner to spin the motor when doing
valve adjustments. At highway speed she runs plenty cool,
no issue with obstruction.

David Brady
'68 TR250, CD8124L

Randall wrote:
>> In my opinion that is not 
>> accurate as the radiator  does not care which side the 
>> blockage (if there is one) is on.
>>     
>
> Thought experiment : take a bucket with a hole in the bottom.  Turn it
> upside down and spray it with a hose.  Now turn it right side up and spray
> it with a hose again.  Which way has more water flowing through the hole ?

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 10:43:38 2007
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 12:43:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or Pull
Message-ID: <d0b.1a82a377.344f7eba@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/23/2007 5:01:03 AM Mountain Daylight Time,  
DLylis at aol.com writes:

I  would  prefer that the electric fan not be 
seen from inside the  engine bay.  What  say those with experience in this?  





It looks to me like most OEM applications are pushers.  Having said  that, my 
experience on the Spridget list leads me to believe those cars are very  
sensitive to radiator obstruction and the electric fans only seem to work as  
pullers.
 
On my BGT I installed a 15" as a pusher and I'm having overheating  problems. 
 That may not be the cause, but I do intend to reinstall it as a  puller, 
after I check the timing, thermostat, and radiator for internal  blockage.
 
On my TR4 I intend to install a puller because there seems to be so much  
more room on that side to reach it for adjustment, installation, maintenance,  
replacement....
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Oct 23 10:50:43 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:50:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] Points Q
Message-ID: <102320071650.28135.471E26630001D40700006DE722007504389D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net>

I started and ran the initial 20 minutes with just water in the system. Would do no harm and a lot easier if leaks show up and we're not throwing away coolant after the run up. There was some "stuff" in the water when we drained it and then added the coolant, water wetter, and NoRosion. No problems since.  I do have an electric  puller fan and the six bladed water pump, the air deflector, and the shrouded thermostat. I run at less than 185 degrees F in 90+ degree heat in Central Florida.
Tom
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: John Gillis <jgillis at tcd.ie>
> On preparing to try and start my re-built motor and checking things over
> beforehand, with the points closed and the ignition on, if I manually open
> the
> points, should I see it arcing, i.e a spark?. Also any thoughts on trying the
> very initial start up without coolant in the system?
> Regards
> John, closer and closer
> 1954 TR2
> 
> John Gillis
> Senior Conservator
> _______________________________________________

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Oct 23 10:53:30 2007
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 12:53:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <OF4D757598.CFDCABE6-ON8525737D.004EF1A2-8525737D.0051333C@gsk.com>
Message-ID: <20071023125330.H7TZ8.187749.root@mp20>

---- Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com wrote: 
> My instinct leads me to believe a puller will move more air through a 
> radiator than a pusher.

I'm not sure of the test parameters, but a properly installed puller will flow better than a properly installed pusher.

As I see it, a proper installation of a fan includes a shroud.  If you shroud a pusher, then when the vehicle is in motion and the fan is ~not~ energized, air is blocked from normal laminar flow through the radiator by the shroud.  With a puller in the same configuration, air hits all points of the radiator face more or less equally (small mouth notwithstanding), so that more flow is experienced.  The rear shroud may limit total flow somewhat, though, maybe.

When the fan is energized, then there may not be as much difference between pusher and puller - probably both are more effective at moving air through the exchanger than the stock (unshrouded) fan.

Jeff Scarbrough
Spitfires and a TR6

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 11:07:08 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 13:07:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or Pull
Message-ID: <cb2.1ec86f1d.344f843c@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/23/2007 9:44:32 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
BearTranserv at aol.com writes:

I   would  prefer that the electric fan not be 
seen from inside the   engine bay.  What  say those with experience in this?  
 





My Kenlowe works fine in front of my TR radiators, just as it did on my  
Stag.Theory is something to fall back on when nothing else works.
Mike Moore 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 12:14:40 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 14:14:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <c96.1b1df5a4.344f9410@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/23/2007 9:54:12 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fishplate at charter.net writes:

----  Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com wrote: 
> My instinct leads me to believe a puller  will move more air through a 
> radiator than a pusher.

I'm not  sure of the test parameters, but a properly installed puller will 
flow better  than a properly installed pusher.

As I see it, a proper installation of  a fan includes a shroud.  If you 
shroud a pusher, then when the vehicle  is in motion and the fan is ~not~ 
energized, air is blocked from normal  laminar flow through the radiator by the shroud. 
 With a puller in the  same configuration, air hits all points of the 
radiator face more or less  equally (small mouth notwithstanding), so that more flow 
is experienced.   The rear shroud may limit total flow somewhat, though, maybe.

When the  fan is energized, then there may not be as much difference between 
pusher and  puller - probably both are more effective at moving air through 
the exchanger  than the stock (unshrouded) fan.




"Better" is the enemy of "good enough". 
 
The way I look at it is; so what if a pusher isn't as efficient as a  puller  
(which its not), is the fan good enough to do what you want it to  do?
 In my case, the answer was "yes" on both my Stag and my TR3 which I  drive 
in the summer time on (hot) California freeways.
 
Mike Moore 
 
 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Oct 23 12:22:15 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 14:22:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] California Wild Fires
Message-ID: <000601c815a1$a5744e80$210110ac@bobspc>

How are our California list members making out with all the wild fires? I
know we have more then a few members living in So Calif. 

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.6/1086 - Release Date: 10/22/2007
7:57 PM

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 12:42:50 2007
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 14:42:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] authentic generator heat sheild on this TR4A?
Message-ID: <c1c.210a8c3d.344f9aaa@aol.com>

Anyone ever see an authentic generator heat sheild on a TR4-A? I have never
seen any until last weekend at the San Juan Batista British 2-seater Meet.
But I'm not sure it's authentic.
I have always wondered why the two threaded bosses cast into the 4into2
exhaust manifold were empty. This is the first time I've seen a sheild attached
.
Can anyone confirm that this heat sheild is an authentic factory made sheild?
(will send you a pic if you think you can help, or are curious)
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
**************************************
 See what's new at
http://www.aol.com

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Tue Oct 23 12:58:22 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:58:22 +0100
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
References: <c96.1b1df5a4.344f9410@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00af01c815a6$afa32c00$0201a8c0@Bevan>

I take the view that the standard fan was only reasonably good at engine 
speeds up to about 2000rpm. After that it became more of a 'drag' and just 
absorbs useful power I'd prefer goes to the wheels.

For the 2009 Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive, I've already planned:

1. Two pushers - and only because of space
2. Sheet metal ducting in the air intake
3. A completely new state of the art radiator
4. A temp gauge that tells me more than just "it's warm water" - but gives a 
specific reading, and
5. A manual override switch to the fans themselves.
6. Lower operating temp thermostat

If it boils after all that, it'll just boil. So will I as the car has no A/C

Jonmac 

From edwd at ti.com  Tue Oct 23 13:10:27 2007
From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 14:10:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <mailman.25780.1193107779.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4D43D42DB9FDBF47A351093575A8CC5F020FF9CA@dlee13.ent.ti.com>

"There were only about 3600 A's built in '57, starting in September with
TS 22014, to TS 25632.  Mine was commissioned in early-mid December (I
think it was around the 12th, but I don't recall the exact date) and
it's entirely possible yours was commissioned on the same day."

Wow, this means that my TR3A TS 22656L is actually a 1957 built car?
That is fantastic since I have always wanted a 1957 vehicle to match my
build date of 07/19/1957.  We are both 50 years old.  I had lamented
that it was a 1958 on the title, but after reading this digest for
years, waiting to start/finish the restoration on this Texas jewel, I
had secretly hoped that it was indeed a 1957.  The above numbers confirm
it.  That is fantastic.

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Texas

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 23 14:12:52 2007
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:12:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
In-Reply-To: <bd9.1f0674e6.344eabc3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY109-F37CC8482E3D12204463F4FA59B0@phx.gbl>

>remaining collar and split that off.   Now for the pin.  There is a 
>problem.  I am
>hesitant as to how  much I want to wail on the threaded end because if I 
>damage
>it and absolutely  cannot get that pin out, I am, how you say?. . .screwed.
>I have  given it mighty blows with a brass three pound hammer and it scoffs 
>at
>me.   I am going to spray PB Blaster on it for the next two or three days 
>and
>try  again.  The bearing surface of the pin is fine but I do not want to
>reassemble a freshly painted body on this should I break a spring sometime 
>in
>the future and cannot get it out.  The body would then have to come off  
>again.
>
>David  Lylis
>69 TR6 CC26160L
>60 TR3A TS74461LO

David:

The pin in my old TR3 racecar moved a little and then stopped. I found that 
it was stuck because it was bent, probably due to a wreck years ago. The 
bent part prevented it from passing through the hole.

Can you tell if your pin is bent?

I cut the pin flush with the outer frame rail with a sawzall, then was able 
to remove the remaining piece with the body in place and no hole drilled in 
it. I put a pickle fork under the pin head and beat on the end of the pickle 
fork so that it acted as a lever to pull the pin. I also used Aerokroil, a 
torch, and curse words. Quite a bit of torch, actually.

If your pin is bent, it's ruined anyway, so you might s well cut it off so 
you aren't trying to push or pull the bent part through the hole.

John

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 14:23:54 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:23:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
Message-ID: <d5e.14c4d757.344fb25a@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/23/2007 1:13:46 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
jrherrera90 at hotmail.com writes:

I cut  the pin flush with the outer frame rail with a sawzall, then was able 
to  remove the remaining piece with the body in place and no hole drilled in  
it. I put a pickle fork under the pin head and beat on the end of the  pickle 
fork so that it acted as a lever to pull the pin. I also used  Aerokroil, a 
torch, and curse words. Quite a bit of torch,  actually.



I have to tell you abut my facial injuries I sustained trying to remove  
mine.  I rolled under the car on my creeper   with my propane  torch. I had a neat 
idea about heating the bolt, and spraying liquid wrench on  while hot. I 
heated the dickens out of it, then turned the torch off, and  sprayed the hot bolt 
with Liquid Wrench. There was a huge fireball right in my  face. I banged may 
head up and rolled over my fingers trying to get out.
I had no eyebrows, no eyelashes, my hairline had receded, my face was  
sunburnt and I had several cuts and bruises where my head had bounced off the  
underside coming out. Worst was my fingers-badly bruised.
it doesn''t take an open flame to ignite Liquid Wrench!
Mike Moore 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Oct 23 14:41:46 2007
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 13:41:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] heat proof wiring loom tape recommendadtions wanted
Message-ID: <abc1aef30710231341s40a4e521sdde3202b50704a71@mail.gmail.com>

Can anyone recommend a good wiring loom tape that is also heat proof?   I
want
to insulate some wires that run close to the exhaust manifolds on my Stag

Thanks, Sujit

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Oct 23 16:35:11 2007
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 18:35:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] authentic generator heat sheild on this TR4A?
In-Reply-To: <c1c.210a8c3d.344f9aaa@aol.com>
References: <c1c.210a8c3d.344f9aaa@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200710231835.11337.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 23 October 2007 02:42 pm, CarlSereda at aol.com wrote:
> Anyone ever see an authentic generator heat sheild on a TR4-A? I have never
> seen any until last weekend at the San Juan Batista British 2-seater Meet.
> But I'm not sure it's authentic.
> I have always wondered why the two threaded bosses cast into the 4into2
> exhaust manifold were empty. This is the first time I've seen a sheild
> attached .
> Can anyone confirm that this heat sheild is an authentic factory made
> sheild? (will send you a pic if you think you can help, or are curious)
> Regards,
> Carl
> '63 TR4 since '74
Carl,

I have never seen a generator heat shield. But if there is a need for a heat 
shield in a TR that is sure the place.

If anyone of our list after - market parts producers want to produce one for 
the TR3, 4 and 4a I will buy 2!

Would have to work with the std exhaust manifold (4 to 1) for me.

Bob

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 15:58:13 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:58:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] authentic generator heat sheild on this TR4A?
Message-ID: <bd9.1f1f6472.344fc875@aol.com>

Does anyone have a photo of it?
 
Mike Moore 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 23 16:28:12 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:28:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] heat proof wiring loom tape recommendadtions wanted
In-Reply-To: <abc1aef30710231341s40a4e521sdde3202b50704a71@mail.gmail.com>
References: <abc1aef30710231341s40a4e521sdde3202b50704a71@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <090501c815c3$ff2f38f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Can anyone recommend a good wiring loom tape that is also 
> heat proof?   I
> want
> to insulate some wires that run close to the exhaust 
> manifolds on my Stag

I don't believe there is such a thing as "heat proof" tape, Sujit; although
there are some tapes that are more heat resistant than others.  The best I
know of is Scotch 70 Silicone Rubber self-fusing tape, which is rated to
350F (180C), but that's still not as hot as your exhaust manifold.

To go higher, you need fiberglass sleeving to slip over the wire, which can
then be held with thin metal wire (since tie-wraps also won't withstand high
heat).

Both the sleeving & silicone rubber tape are available from McMaster-Carr in
the US
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3323

Randall

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Tue Oct 23 16:36:03 2007
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:36:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or Pull
In-Reply-To: <bc9.1a924e04.344f2e4f@aol.com>
References: <bc9.1a924e04.344f2e4f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B6B8693E-F67D-41E7-BA6D-CD37A77F01C7@cox.net>

I just asked a physicist at work because I am doing the same thing.   
He said the difference would be small but the read mounted fan would  
be better because the air flow would be slightly slower & that would  
result in better heat transfer.


On  23 Oct, 2007, at 4:00 AM, DLylis at aol.com wrote:

> I am going to eliminate my fan on my 3A and install a 12" electric   
> fan.
> Opinions have been offered as to push or pull.  Surprisingly, a   
> common one is to
> install as a pull because as a push the fan blocks too  much air  
> flow.  In my
> opinion that is not accurate as the radiator  does not care which  
> side the
> blockage (if there is one) is on.  I would  prefer that the  
> electric fan not be
> seen from inside the engine bay.  What  say those with experience  
> in this?
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http:// 
> www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> 60tr3a at cox.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Tue Oct 23 16:41:24 2007
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 00:41:24 +0200
Subject: [TR] Push or Pull
References: <20071023150910.NKSQ24626.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>
	<471E1229.3060204@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <006e01c815c5$d7e663c0$0500a8c0@Study>

It's a nice point whether the frontal area of a shroud restricts the airflow 
through the radiator thus overly reducing the cooling when the fan is not 
running. If the fan works well there's no problem, that's what it's there 
for! Certainly since I fitted a pusher fan some years ago I have had no 
cooling problems even in the 90F traffic jams that we get here in Southern 
France in the summer holidays, and even on hot days a sustained forward 
speed above 10-15mph is enough to keep the rad temp normal without the fan 
running.
The fan I fitted was lifted from a Citroen BX and came with a shroud which 
coincidentally was the exact width of the radiator which made it easy to 
have a neat, simple and solid attachment to the rad itself.

HTH,

David Brister
1967 TR4A
CTC77785 O 


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From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Tue Oct 23 15:46:41 2007
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:46:41
Subject: [TR] California Wild Fires
In-Reply-To: <000601c815a1$a5744e80$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20071023154641.1e77be8e@pop.west.cox.net>

At Present, basically the fire has burned all around me - my wife has not
been to work because all the schools are closed, nor I because my co
workers were evacuated and are living at the office - We have not, nor do I
think we will be evacuated yet, and I feel if we are told to, pretty much
all of San Diego would be on fire -  Not a good situation at all, over 700
homes burned many structures, and the worst fire I have seen in the 38
years that I have lived here.  It ain't over yet, and probably won't be
until Thurs or Friday at best - 

Really bad situation around here,  bad or worse than it looks on the news -
many lives changed forever - but I suppose it could have been a lot worse,
since the Cedar fire in 2003 In which we did have to evacuate (living in
Santee at that time, which was much closer to the fire), we learned some
lessons - 


*****************************************************


At 02:22 PM 10/23/2007 -0400, you wrote:
>How are our California list members making out with all the wild fires? I
>know we have more then a few members living in So Calif. 

Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San Diego)

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Oct 23 16:47:25 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 18:47:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <00af01c815a6$afa32c00$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <471E41BD.13026.F77ABB@localhost>

On 23 Oct 2007 at 19:58, John Macartney wrote:

> I take the view that the standard fan was only reasonably good at
> engine speeds up to about 2000rpm. After that it became more of a
> 'drag' and just absorbs useful power I'd prefer goes to the wheels.

If the fan can really affect the car's performance then this is quite 
simple.  The fan has to be near the radiator, which is always up 
front, isn't it?  At least in our cars it is.  And if the fan is 
pushing from the front then it must be trying to make the car go 
backwards.  You can't push something forwards from the front.  But if 
it's pulling from the front then it must be trying to pull the car 
forwards, which is exactly what you want it to do.  So it's obvious, 
for best performance the fan must be pulling the car forward.  And 
the faster the car goes the more wind hits the radiator, which gives 
you more cooling.  So you win both ways, better performance plus more 
cooling if it's pulling instead of pushing.

I really don't see what the big issue is here.

(If your fan is pushing, just turn it around on its shaft.  The 
blades will then be angled the opposite way.  Yeesh, do I have to 
tell you people everything???)

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



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From CarlSereda at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 16:53:35 2007
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 18:53:35 EDT
Subject: [TR] authentic generator heat sheild on this TR4A?
Message-ID: <c26.22278917.344fd56f@aol.com>

Bob,
Sent you photos of TR generator heat sheild.. probably could be made to fit
both 4into1 and 4into2 exhaust manifolds although the latter already has the
two threaded bosses for attachment. On the 4into1 you might have to attach
bottom of shield to one of the end flange bolts of exhaust manifold.
note; the generator heat sheild, along with Joe's carb heat sheild, and it's
getting a little hard to get your hands in there to do any work!
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

<< Carl,  I have never seen a generator heat shield. But if there is a need for
 a heat   shield in a TR that is sure the place.  If anyone of our list after -
 market parts producers want to produce one for   the TR3, 4 and 4a I will buy 
2!  Would have to work with the std exhaust manifold (4 to 1) for me.  Bob >>

**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR4A Generator Heat Sheild .jpg]

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 23 16:54:33 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:54:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] California Wild Fires
In-Reply-To: <000601c815a1$a5744e80$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000601c815a1$a5744e80$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <091c01c815c7$ade76f40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> How are our California list members making out with all the 
> wild fires? I
> know we have more then a few members living in So Calif. 

I live well away from any wooded area, so no worries on my part.

But the damage is just incredible, with some reports saying over 1000 homes
already destroyed and over 500,000 people evacuated with more to come.  As I
flew in last night, some of the hills looked more like volcanoes !

And it's still hot and dry, with a hellish wind blowing ashes everywhere.
Small wonder the Spanish called them the "winds of Satan".

"Those hot dry winds that come down through the mountain passes and curl
your hair and make your nerves jump and your skin itch. On nights like that
every booze party ends in a fight. Meek little wives feel the edge of the
carving knife and study their husbands' necks. Anything can happen."
-- Raymond Chandler

Randall

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Oct 23 17:08:16 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:08:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
References: <BAY109-F37CC8482E3D12204463F4FA59B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000a01c815c9$98e28150$5918e247@DCS78M81>

Ok, I'll wade back in.
My bolt wasn't bent, but frozen solid.
I used a 5/16 stud in the bolt head and used a 15/16 socket with grade 8 
washers to make a puller. By using the stud I saved the threads on the 
bolt...  oh, yeah, I chased the threads in the bolt with  a tap to ensure a 
deep fit.  I heated the bolt and sprayed with PB Blaster and then applied 
some outward pressure on the bolt via the stud.  It took only about 2 days 
of off and on heating and cooling to get the driver's side off. After it 
loosened a little, I would use the castle nut on the threaded end to pull it 
back into the frame tube - working penetrant as far as I could each time. 
After it was moving about a quarter of an inch each way, I used a grinder 
and cut off the threaded end of the bolt, but only AFTER it was moving a 
little. Then more heat and more penetrant, finally after another couple of 
days it broke free and I installed the new springs and silent blocs.
I think I like the idea of drilling the hole, but after the first 12 years 
of life in Myrtle Beach and then 34 more years of just sitting there 
together, the parts had really married each other. It wasn't until the cut 
off bolt had about 1/2 inch until the end that I could rotate it in the 
tube. It was still that tight. I rigged up a pry bar with a 5/16" tapped 
hole to work on the bolt - absolutely no good. I'm glad I had the patience, 
or at least found it to get them out the regular way. On the TR4 there is no 
stone guard to remove... so I guess I'll try the  patient way again.
Good luck and you can win.
Oh, I went through 6 studs and many nuts using them as a puller......
Tom 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Oct 23 18:02:18 2007
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 20:02:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] California Wild Fires
In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20071023154641.1e77be8e@pop.west.cox.net>
References: <3.0.4.16.20071023154641.1e77be8e@pop.west.cox.net>
Message-ID: <200710232002.18913.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 23 October 2007 11:46 am, Barry Schwartz wrote:
> At Present, basically the fire has burned all around me - my wife has not
> been to work because all the schools are closed, nor I because my co
> workers were evacuated and are living at the office - We have not, nor do I
> think we will be evacuated yet, and I feel if we are told to, pretty much
> all of San Diego would be on fire -  Not a good situation at all, over 700
> homes burned many structures, and the worst fire I have seen in the 38
> years that I have lived here.  It ain't over yet, and probably won't be
> until Thurs or Friday at best -
>
> Really bad situation around here,  bad or worse than it looks on the news -
> many lives changed forever - but I suppose it could have been a lot worse,
> since the Cedar fire in 2003 In which we did have to evacuate (living in
> Santee at that time, which was much closer to the fire), we learned some
> lessons -
>
>
> *****************************************************
>
> At 02:22 PM 10/23/2007 -0400, you wrote:
> >How are our California list members making out with all the wild fires? I
> >know we have more then a few members living in So Calif.
>
> Barry Schwartz
> La Mesa, CA (San Diego)
> _______________________________________________
Barry,

We hope you remain safe and secure!

Our family went through the worry of California fire earlier this year with 
the Angora Fire in South Lake Tahoe.

Daughter # 2 lives there and works in the local hospital. The fire came within 
2 miles of their home and about a mile of the hospital. They had to evac the 
patients to nearby Nevada and she had to live in that facility until the fire 
was contained.

Living here in central NY, we were constantly monitoring the situation on the 
web and waiting for the call that all was lost.  It never came. The fire was 
contained.

I have made numerous trips to California for both business and gold mining.

I think California is a beautiful area of the country and I will continue to 
visit.  But...

I have seen mountains on fire. Seen large areas filled with smoke. Seen 
numerous idiots throwing their lit butts out of their cars on interstate 5.

During my first mining trip to Happy Camp, I stepped on a pine cone and it 
just disintegrated. I have never seen dry like that! That was the year of 
some great fires in that area of California. The smoke was so thick it burned 
my eyes.

But I could never live there for that very reason.

Lets hope the winds die down and the fire fighters can get on top of this!

Watching the news it looks like it will be a tough 2 or 3 days.

Hell on earth for sure!

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 23 17:15:53 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:15:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
In-Reply-To: <000a01c815c9$98e28150$5918e247@DCS78M81>
References: <BAY109-F37CC8482E3D12204463F4FA59B0@phx.gbl>
	<000a01c815c9$98e28150$5918e247@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <092201c815ca$a864bb10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> It wasn't  until the cut 
> off bolt had about 1/2 inch until the end that I could rotate 
> it in the  tube.

FWIW, there is supposed to be a tab on the frame that engages with the flat
of the 'bolt' head, to keep it from turning.   I missed it at first, but it
was obvious once the bolts/pins were out.

Randall

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Tue Oct 23 17:21:02 2007
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Patricia Donnelly)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:21:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] California Wild Fires
In-Reply-To: <000601c815a1$a5744e80$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000601c815a1$a5744e80$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <471E81DE.3070406@san.rr.com>

You can read the news or watch it on TV, but unless you see it in person 
you don't realize how scary it can be.

About 3 AM this morning I walked out to the back patio and watched the 
fire roar over Mt Miguel, the tallest point around that the TV 
transmitters are on. About 10 square miles of fire. Live TV went out. 
Uncontrolled. Very scary. The only thing more scary was watching, when I 
was a kid, oil wells on Signal Hill in Long Beach explode on fire from a 
mile away.

This morning when dawn came there were more cars on our street from 
evacuated people finding refuge with friends in the middle of the night.

Not many people worked. Some retail shops were open. Home Depot, grocery 
stores, etc. Major freeways closed. Golf courses were closed. Schools 
were closed. Air quality worse than LA. Have only saw a few kids on the 
street, most were inside.

Patty and I spent most of the last couple of days watching  TV keeping 
tabs on the fires. We're lucky, we live centrally between the Witch and 
Harris fires, and not really in jeopardy. Email is down for quite a few, 
so don't expect much of an answer. Half the population here in San Diego 
have other things to be ready for.

Johnnie in San Diego
'67 TR4A

Bob Danielson wrote:
> How are our California list members making out with all the wild fires? I
> know we have more then a few members living in So Calif. 
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG. 
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.6/1086 - Release Date: 10/22/2007
> 7:57 PM
>   
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> pdonnel1 at san.rr.com
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu  Tue Oct 23 17:28:44 2007
From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:28:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] California Wildfires; some actual LBC content
Message-ID: <471E83AC.60305@mrl.ucsb.edu>

Hey, Folks,

well, Bob Danielson asked how we were doing. I'm up in Santa Barbara 
County in California, and the fires start at the southern edge of our 
county and extend sporadically all the way down to the Mexican border.

We have been spared the Santa Ana winds that are blowing hair-dryer-hot 
wind into the areas affected by the fires. Still, my home is in a canyon 
much like those currently being burnt to a crisp in  San Diego, and I 
have made a few preparations in case I would have to grab my family and 
bail out.  Scary. The images from farther south are certainly bleak, and 
the shocking and scary part to me is I've been to most all the places 
I've seen on TV and the fire line starts about an hour south of here. 
The speed that the fires cranked up is perhaps the most alarming. 
Saturday was a beautiful day. We've had smoky skies since then.

Randall is down there in the L.A. basin somewhere, perhaps he'll give us 
a man on the street report.

*** LBC Content ***

Unfortunately ol' CT 7468 LO is undergoing periodic maintenance and 
isn't going ANYWHERE for a couple of weeks.

Per recent list research, I did send my rocker assembly to Rocker 
Specialists and had them rebuilt. The cost was $140. That's LESS than 
what they have listed on their website. ( How often does that happen? )

Their website:  http://www.rockerarms.com

They replaced the rocker shaft with a new, harder one, rebushed the 
rockers, reground the tips and replaced the adjusters and lock nuts. 
They disassembled and reassembled the rocker assembly. I dealt with a 
guy named Blaine and he was very pleasant.

The assembly looks nice, but I haven't run the car yet because I also 
sent out my distributor to be rebuilt by Robert Samara 
(lucasdistributors at yahoo.com) who put my dizzy on his machine and sent 
me this really cool excel spreadsheet with my curve on it before any 
work started.  I was somewhat surprised to find that my vacuum advance 
wasn't working at all, and that my mechanical advance springs had become 
weak and all the advance was all in by 1600 Engine RPM. This is too much 
advance too early. It will be very interesting to see how the recurve 
affects performance.

I'll let everyone know how the rockers and dizzy work when it all comes 
back together, and hopefully we'll be through this set of fires by then.

-jeffrey

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Oct 23 17:34:50 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:34:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
References: <BAY109-F37CC8482E3D12204463F4FA59B0@phx.gbl>
	<000a01c815c9$98e28150$5918e247@DCS78M81>
	<092201c815ca$a864bb10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c815cd$4ed574b0$5918e247@DCS78M81>

That's an important point. That tab will keep the bolt from turning, but 
it's only a quarter of an inch long or so. That's how you can tighten the 
bolt on the installation..  Actually, the installation is quiet easy by 
comparison.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'THOMAS FANSHER'" <tfansher at comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 7:15 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs


>
>
>> It wasn't  until the cut
>> off bolt had about 1/2 inch until the end that I could rotate
>> it in the  tube.
>
> FWIW, there is supposed to be a tab on the frame that engages with the 
> flat
> of the 'bolt' head, to keep it from turning.   I missed it at first, but 
> it
> was obvious once the bolts/pins were out.
>
> Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 17:38:02 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:38:02 EDT
Subject: [TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs
Message-ID: <cac.1cdf0251.344fdfda@aol.com>

Thanks Mike, but I had already taken that off the list of things to  try.
(Sorry)
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 17:47:28 2007
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:47:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] California Wild Fires
Message-ID: <bfe.23acf8f9.344fe210@aol.com>

I have fire all around me it seems. But non about to run me over.
Houses about a mile from me where evacuated last night. There kinda in the 
rural area.
IM in a nice lush green heavily watered area and don't think ill be in 
trouble.
Other than finding my way home around closed down freeways. 15 freeway closed 
north of where I work and one exit short of where I want to get off to go 
south to home!
god bless all those in trouble
and thanks for thinking of us Bob
Frank Fisher
TR3 TS41366L, of which would be a shame to loose after all the work iv done! 
laugh



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 18:05:53 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 20:05:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <c75.1bc4a3ea.344fe661@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/23/2007 5:48:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

(If your  fan is pushing, just turn it around on its shaft.  The 
blades will  then be angled the opposite way.  Yeesh, do I have to 
tell you people  everything???)



Ah, not so!  If you remove the fan from your crank and turn it  around it 
still moves air in the same direction.  The pitch of the blades  remains the 
same.  To change the direction of air movement you have to  reverse the shaft 
rotation, or change the pitch of the blades.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From cak at dimebank.com  Tue Oct 23 18:15:48 2007
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:15:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] heat proof wiring loom tape recommendadtions wanted
Message-ID: <200710240015.l9O0FmgL011798@moose.dimebank.com>

I recently learned about Rescue Tape:

	http://www.rescuetape.com/

which, among other things, would make a great wiring loom wrap.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Oct 23 18:31:23 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 20:31:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <c75.1bc4a3ea.344fe661@aol.com>
Message-ID: <471E5A1B.21435.1EEECE@localhost>

On 23 Oct 2007 at 20:05, DLylis at aol.com wrote:

> > (If your fan is pushing, just turn it around on its shaft.  The 
> > blades will then be angled the opposite way.  Yeesh, do I have
> > to tell you people everything???)

> Ah, not so!  If you remove the fan from your crank and turn it
> around it still moves air in the same direction...

David, that's like saying the same Thermos bottle that keeps things 
warm will also keep them cold.  How would it know which is which?

> To change the direction of air movement you have to reverse
> the shaft 

So you're saying I have to take the shaft out of the motor and 
reverse it along with the blades?  So like, is all the intelligence 
built into the shaft and none in the blades?  Boy, you learn 
something new every day.

[My original note was just kidding. :-) ]

But I still wonder how, when I drive in Canada, my cruise control 
knows to keep my speed at the chosen kph instead of mph.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.6/1086 - Release Date: 10/22/2007 7:57 PM

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Tue Oct 23 18:39:54 2007
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 20:39:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
References: <c96.1b1df5a4.344f9410@aol.com>
	<00af01c815a6$afa32c00$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <001801c815d6$6630adb0$086a33d8@CPQ12949640186>

I don't recall anyone saying you should run the oem mechanical fan instead 
of an electrical.  It was simply a discussion of the comparison of a pusher 
type to a puller type fan.  No need for the attitude.

Your plans for the drive raise a few points to consider.

A specific temperature gauge tends to create false anxiety, while an 
accurate analog gauge lets you observe trends more easily.

A lower temperature thermostat really has nothing to do with helping an 
inadequate cooling system.  Though it does help you carbon up an engine 
faster.

Two fans instead of one generally creates more frontal area, blocking more 
airflow than a single fan does.  Mostly it has to do with the size of the 
motors.

State of the art radiator is just a marketing term. What do you actually 
mean?



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Push or pull


>I take the view that the standard fan was only reasonably good at engine
> speeds up to about 2000rpm. After that it became more of a 'drag' and just
> absorbs useful power I'd prefer goes to the wheels.
>
> For the 2009 Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive, I've already planned:
>
> 1. Two pushers - and only because of space
> 2. Sheet metal ducting in the air intake
> 3. A completely new state of the art radiator
> 4. A temp gauge that tells me more than just "it's warm water" - but gives 
> a
> specific reading, and
> 5. A manual override switch to the fans themselves.
> 6. Lower operating temp thermostat
>
> If it boils after all that, it'll just boil. So will I as the car has no 
> A/C

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 18:50:49 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 20:50:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <bd0.1c46ab03.344ff0e9@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/23/2007 7:32:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

[My  original note was just kidding. :-) ]



Sorry.  I may be hypersensitive.  I just got back from  SEVTR in Jekyll 
Island and engaged in a conversation on this very subject.   My adversary insisted 
I was wrong and refused to discuss it further.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 18:58:23 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 20:58:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
Message-ID: <bbe.18db7b18.344ff2af@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/23/2007 2:10:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
edwd at ti.com writes:

That is  fantastic since I have always wanted a 1957 vehicle to match my
build date  of 07/19/1957.  We are both 50 years old.  I had lamented
that it  was a 1958 on the title


Which raises and interesting question.  My 60 was titled  as a 59 which I 
thought was odd, but since have met others who's cars are  titled in the year 
before they were built.  Anyone know why that  happened?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Tue Oct 23 21:03:29 2007
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 23:03:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
Message-ID: <fac10b170710232003o21b5fe08vbf148205d7ae1b03@mail.gmail.com>

Ed Fisher wrote:

Wow, this means that my TR3A TS 22656L is actually a 1957 built car?
That is fantastic since I have always wanted a 1957 vehicle to match my
build date of 07/19/1957.  We are both 50 years old.  I had lamented
that it was a 1958 on the title, but after reading this digest for
years, waiting to start/finish the restoration on this Texas jewel, I
had secretly hoped that it was indeed a 1957.  The above numbers confirm
it.  That is fantastic.
=======================
Welcome to the club Ed; my own build date is 05/20/57, though my TR3
hasn't quite made it, having a build date of late 1960.
Approaching the big 5-0, I was a little apprehensive - thought I'd
feel outcast and ignored, simply lumped in with the growing
demographic wearing plaid pants. But on arrival, I find I feel better
than ever, and that it is kind of liberating doing whatever I please
and being ignored! So now it doesn't matter if I wear clothes that
don't match when I go to town, or don't wear any when I go to the
beach, or my hair, what precious little is left of it, is out of place
when I go to town for the groceries.
I can be that funky old grandfather from out in the country with all
the old vehicles about his place who constantly injures himself with
his tools and doesn't mind.
(Strange to me, is that as I look around at work, suddenly I have
become the senior person (in age), and have gained respect by default.
I like that too, being considered the wise sage. Little do they
know....bruhahahaha....)
So, to those who have been around a bit longer, does this just get
better? Or is this a symptom of the long slippery downhill slide I am
experiencing here?

Jim
60 TR3A
72 VW Type 2 Adventurewagon
52 Ferguson TEA20
53 Ferguson TEA20
83 Yamaha Maxim 650
71 SkiDoo Elan 250
87 Mazda B2000

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 23 21:53:40 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 20:53:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <bd0.1c46ab03.344ff0e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071024035339.LDRG24626.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> My adversary insisted 
> I was wrong and refused to discuss it further.  

Ask him if it matters which way a nut goes on a bolt.  Since the fan
effectively screws through the air, it's the same issue.

However, oddly enough, some fan makers do say to turn the blades around when
configuring as a pusher instead of a puller (in addition to reversing shaft
rotation by swapping the wires).  Apparently their fans are more efficient
when turning in a particular direction.

Randall

From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Oct 23 22:06:02 2007
From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 05:06:02 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] authentic generator heat sheild on this TR4A?
In-Reply-To: <c1c.210a8c3d.344f9aaa@aol.com>
Message-ID: <586541.79877.qm@web27408.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi Carl,
  Not sure there ever was an authentic heat sheild made. I made 1 myself using the 2 bosses and the top front manifold bolt which so far has worked well (the generator has been working for 5000miles). I'll send a photo if you want.
  Cheers,
Chris

CarlSereda at aol.com wrote:
  Anyone ever see an authentic generator heat sheild on a TR4-A? I have never
seen any until last weekend at the San Juan Batista British 2-seater Meet.
But I'm not sure it's authentic.
I have always wondered why the two threaded bosses cast into the 4into2
exhaust manifold were empty. This is the first time I've seen a sheild attached
.
Can anyone confirm that this heat sheild is an authentic factory made sheild?
(will send you a pic if you think you can help, or are curious)
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
**************************************
See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk

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From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Oct 24 03:17:07 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 10:17:07 +0100
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
References: <c96.1b1df5a4.344f9410@aol.com><00af01c815a6$afa32c00$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<001801c815d6$6630adb0$086a33d8@CPQ12949640186>
Message-ID: <010001c8161e$a6d66ec0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Nolan wrote:


>I don't recall anyone saying you should run the oem mechanical fan instead
> of an electrical.  It was simply a discussion of the comparison of a 
> pusher
> type to a puller type fan.

Which is entirely how I construed the discussion to be. My comment was only 
that the OEM fan being fixed pitch, would only work fully at a fairly low 
engine speed. As we all know, it operates across the whole engine speed 
spectrum and therefore will scoop more air at certain speeds than others. 
Same applies for an electric fan as blade pitch is also fixed but running 
speed is constant

> No need for the attitude.

What was my *attitude*? Was I offensive? Please enlighten me.

> Your plans for the drive raise a few points to consider.
> A specific temperature gauge tends to create false anxiety, while an
> accurate analog gauge lets you observe trends more easily.

I'd agree in principle but we're all occasionally plagued with electrical 
gremlins and I'm no exception. I just prefer a calibrated gauge operated by 
a capillary tube rather than an electric version.

> A lower temperature thermostat really has nothing to do with helping an
> inadequate cooling system.  Though it does help you carbon up an engine
> faster.

Well, I was just copying factory build procedures. Cars destined for hot 
climates (within the tropics) had larger radiators (more coolant, more 
tubes, more fins) higher output water pumps and cooler 'stats.' So perhaps 
the alternative smaller rads/hotter stats were *inadequate* for the tropics 
but not for cooler climates?

> Two fans instead of one generally creates more frontal area, blocking more
> airflow than a single fan does.  Mostly it has to do with the size of the
> motors.

In my case, it's not the size of the motor(s) but the fan itself. I can't 
fit a large Kenlowe unit as a pusher but I can fit two smaller units - and 
even one might be enough.

> State of the art radiator is just a marketing term. What do you actually
> mean?

More coolant, more tubes, more fins but using current radiator manufacturing 
materials and techniques in preference to those of the 1960's. That's how we 
use the inferred term *state of the art* in the UK. I thought that was how 
it would be interpreted elsewhere. Obviously I was mistaken.

Jonmac 

From team.net at daveola.com  Wed Oct 24 03:16:59 2007
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 02:16:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <bbe.18db7b18.344ff2af@aol.com>
References: <bbe.18db7b18.344ff2af@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E1IkcQi-0002ps-00@dave.getdave.com>

David Lylis writes:
> Which raises and interesting question.  My 60 was titled  as a 59 which I 
> thought was odd, but since have met others who's cars are  titled in the year 
> before they were built.  Anyone know why that  happened?

My first Triumph was also oddly dated, titled as 61 and built in 60.

As I understand it, this wasn't just because things were built at
the end of the year to be prepared for unveiling in January.  I believe
the practice (at least for Triumphs) was to title the car based on the
year it was sold, not built, so the owner didn't feel like they were
getting an old car.  I don't think it mattered much back then since
the distinctions between two different TR3As are not based just on
the production year.  A 2008 Honda Civic may be entirely different
from a 2007 Honda Civic, but that's not really the case with Triumphs
(at least not in the same sense).

But I could be wrong, this is all just hearsay.

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415 341-5555
------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Wed Oct 24 04:42:50 2007
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 06:42:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
References: <c96.1b1df5a4.344f9410@aol.com><00af01c815a6$afa32c00$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<001801c815d6$6630adb0$086a33d8@CPQ12949640186>
	<010001c8161e$a6d66ec0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <002401c8162a$9fe9db40$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>

>More coolant, more tubes, more fins but using current radiator 
>manufacturing materials and techniques in preference to those of the 
>1960's. That's how we use the inferred term *state of the art* in the UK. I 
>thought that was how it would be interpreted elsewhere. Obviously I was 
>mistaken.

That would be the attitude I was referring to.

I'd say best of luck to you, but with the way to act, to hell with you. 

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 05:26:01 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 07:26:01 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <d28.17c2e306.345085c9@aol.com>

Randall,
Please tell me if this is wrongheaded thinking.  First I bought the  12" fan 
because *they* said is was the correct one for my car.  Going past  that, the 
stock fan (yellow plastic not stock/stock) is 12" and has 56 sq in of  blade 
area and the electric has 42 sq in of blade area.  Both fans have  similar 
pitch.  Can't tell you the degrees as I just lined them up with a T  square and 
didn't go for the protractor.  The electric has a more  *efficient* blade 
configuration, but this is where I think  the electric is superior.  The stock fan 
is limited to the air  movement by the rotation of the engine at idle.  Let's 
say 800 rpm  whereas the electric is 1800 rpm.  Will I not get better results 
from the  electric for the same diameter fan considering the 25% reduction in 
the blade  area?  Am I just plain dumb for not putting on both? 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 05:29:37 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 07:29:37 EDT
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
Message-ID: <cbd.1f1f95df.345086a1@aol.com>

Dave,
Mine (and others) is the other way.  The title says it is a year  before the 
car was built.  My number is TS74461 which puts it closer to the  end of the 
run for 60s yet it was titled as a 59.  Others have found the  same phenomenon.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 05:33:33 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 07:33:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] Radiators was Push or Pull
Message-ID: <cce.1ba30d46.3450878d@aol.com>

I understood the "state of the art" statement.  Radiator fin shape has  
evolved to be moe efficient than was built 40 - 50 years ago.  That is  without 
regard to materials used, tubes, etc.
 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Oct 24 06:05:06 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:05:06 +0100
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
References: <c96.1b1df5a4.344f9410@aol.com><00af01c815a6$afa32c00$0201a8c0@Bevan><001801c815d6$6630adb0$086a33d8@CPQ12949640186><010001c8161e$a6d66ec0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<002401c8162a$9fe9db40$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <012d01c81636$1e38c0a0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

> >More coolant, more tubes, more fins but using current radiator
>>manufacturing materials and techniques in preference to those of the
>>1960's. That's how we use the inferred term *state of the art* in the UK. 
>>I
>>thought that was how it would be interpreted elsewhere. Obviously I was
>>mistaken.

Nolan replied

> That would be the attitude I was referring to.
> I'd say best of luck to you, but with the way to act, to hell with you.

The absence of smileys and/or emoticons in the last line leaves me feeling 
rather puzzled. If this is a majority feeling of the list, I'm quite willing 
to unsubscribe - or would someone please tell me where my *attitude* is seen 
or perceived as offensive? At no time in my submissions did I ever query 
anyone's logic of whether it was better to push or pull - but to merely put 
a point of view which anyone can challenge.

Jonmac 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct 24 06:06:29 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 08:06:29 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <d6a.1001a724.34508f45@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/23/2007 7:32:13 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> But I still wonder how, when I drive in Canada, my cruise control 
> knows to keep my speed at the chosen kph instead of mph.
> 
Or how your brakes know that "Arret" means "Stop."

Pretty smart, those Girling brakes.

Dave   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct 24 06:08:01 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 08:08:01 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <cb0.1f6e6ff4.34508fa1@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/23/2007 7:51:28 PM Central Daylight Time, 
DLylis at aol.com writes: 
> Sorry.  I may be hypersensitive.  I just got back from  SEVTR in Jekyll 
> Island and engaged in a conversation on this very subject.   My adversary 
> insisted 
> I was wrong and refused to discuss it further.  
> 
Well, he was wrong on both counts.

Cheers

Dave Massey   

From mmarr at notwires.com  Wed Oct 24 06:35:18 2007
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 07:35:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
References: <c96.1b1df5a4.344f9410@aol.com><00af01c815a6$afa32c00$0201a8c0@Bevan><001801c815d6$6630adb0$086a33d8@CPQ12949640186><010001c8161e$a6d66ec0$0201a8c0@Bevan><002401c8162a$9fe9db40$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>
	<012d01c81636$1e38c0a0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <004801c8163a$566430a0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

John:

I can only speak for myself, but the list would be a lesser resource without 
your insights.  I believe you are the only list member that was actively 
involved (albeit primarily from the sales end) in the production of these 
cars and I have found you to be a veritable fount of knowledge and lore 
about the cars that we all love.  I am not sure where Nolan discerned 
"attitude" in your original note, nor did I find your reply to be 
provocative or offensive.  Maybe Nolan is having a bad day.  Anyway, stay 
subscribed, please!

Mike



>> >More coolant, more tubes, more fins but using current radiator
>>>manufacturing materials and techniques in preference to those of the
>>>1960's. That's how we use the inferred term *state of the art* in the UK.
>>>I
>>>thought that was how it would be interpreted elsewhere. Obviously I was
>>>mistaken.
>
> Nolan replied
>
>> That would be the attitude I was referring to.
>> I'd say best of luck to you, but with the way to act, to hell with you.
>
> The absence of smileys and/or emoticons in the last line leaves me feeling
> rather puzzled. If this is a majority feeling of the list, I'm quite 
> willing
> to unsubscribe - or would someone please tell me where my *attitude* is 
> seen
> or perceived as offensive? At no time in my submissions did I ever query
> anyone's logic of whether it was better to push or pull - but to merely 
> put
> a point of view which anyone can challenge.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct 24 06:47:16 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 08:47:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <cc3.1a038685.345098d4@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/24/2007 6:26:41 AM Central Daylight Time, 
DLylis at aol.com writes: 
> The electric has a more  *efficient* blade 
> configuration, but this is where I think  the electric is superior.  The 
> stock fan 
> is limited to the air  movement by the rotation of the engine at idle.  
> Let's 
> say 800 rpm  whereas the electric is 1800 rpm.  Will I not get better 
> results 
> from the  electric for the same diameter fan considering the 25% reduction 
> in 
> the blade  area?  Am I just plain dumb for not putting on both? 

Engineering is a series of tradeoff's.  Designing the fan for an automobile 
radiator is fraught with many variables, the two most problematic are the 
variable engine speed and variable prevailing wind (vehicle speed).  The cheapest 
route is to stick some blades on the end of the crankshaft (or water pump) and 
you're done.  The downside to this is that if you size the fan to be adequate 
at idle in hot weather when stopped it is dead weight any time you are moving 
or the engine is above idle.  Electric fans are the most expensive but give 
the best result.  They can be sized to provide sufficient cooling at worst case 
conditions and the switched off when no needed.  But electric fans cost more, 
require additional wiring and frequently require an upsized alternator.

So, the question is: "Should I use both?"  The answer is, as it frequently is 
in this business, "It depends."  It depends on your climate.  It depends on 
your driving conditions.  If you drive in hot weather in traffic that can leave 
you idling and stopped for periods at a time you may need both.  But if all 
your driving is out in the country side on weekends, you probably don't need 
both.

If you do both be sure that you offset the location to minimize overlap.  I 
mounted an electric fan on my TR6 as a pusher leaving the engine driven fan in 
place.  Since the original fan services the lower 2/3's of the radiator the 
upper 1/3 doesn't get any air movement when the car is stopped.  I mounted the 
electric fan to service the upper 2/3's so that when both fans are operating I 
get airflow across the entire face of the radiator.

Dave   

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Wed Oct 24 06:49:12 2007
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 05:49:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <002401c8162a$9fe9db40$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>
References: <c96.1b1df5a4.344f9410@aol.com><00af01c815a6$afa32c00$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<001801c815d6$6630adb0$086a33d8@CPQ12949640186>
	<010001c8161e$a6d66ec0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<002401c8162a$9fe9db40$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <471F3F48.1040100@razzolink.com>

Nolan wrote:
> That would be the attitude I was referring to.
> 
> I'd say best of luck to you, but with the way to act, to hell with you. 


It is considered impolite to accuse others of being impolite on the list 
then to cuss.  Actually cussing on the list is considered very impolite.

Perhaps it might be better to give the other person some slack and 
assume one or both of you didn't understand the other and wasn't being 
uppity or purposely obstreperous?

Your message, on the other hand is a type of intended flame that is 
inappropriate for this list.  Nothing wrong with the occasional flame 
war but please keep it clean.

Perhaps you just had a bad day and are overly sensitive and searching 
for slights, real or imagined.  We all have bad days, but that is no 
excuse for cussing someone on an open email list.

Learn to play politely with others

TeriAnn
Appointed official list mom in 1988

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Oct 24 06:57:08 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 08:57:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <20071024035339.LDRG24626.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>
References: <bd0.1c46ab03.344ff0e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <471F08E4.31920.2C9ADF8@localhost>

On 23 Oct 2007 at 20:53, Randall wrote:

> oddly enough, some fan makers do say to turn the blades around
> when configuring as a pusher instead of a puller...
> Apparently their fans are more efficient
> when turning in a particular direction.

There are reasons why this could be true.  IIRC (and I'm not going to 
go look right now) my Spitfire's fan, an electric Lucas, I think, 
yellow plastic, has blades which are curved.  Reversing the fan 
wouldn't change the air direction but it would change whether the 
concave or convex side of the blade faced the oncoming air.  There is 
also the matter of whether the motor is in front or behind, for 
example in a region of less or more turbulence.  There are enough 
degrees of freedom in a physical setup like this that no single 
"rule" is going to predict how it behaves.  So we can't say a priori 
that either way is the best.  But if the manufacturer says so, then 
they probably know something about it as a system.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007 7:39 PM

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct 24 07:03:38 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 09:03:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <d56.f446aeb.34509caa@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/24/2007 7:05:12 AM Central Daylight Time, 
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: 
> >That would be the attitude I was referring to.
> >I'd say best of luck to you, but with the way to act, to hell with you.
> 
> The absence of smileys and/or emoticons in the last line leaves me feeling 
> rather puzzled. If this is a majority feeling of the list, I'm quite willing 
> 
> to unsubscribe - or would someone please tell me where my *attitude* is seen 
> 
> or perceived as offensive? At no time in my submissions did I ever query 
> anyone's logic of whether it was better to push or pull - but to merely put 
> a point of view which anyone can challenge.
> 
Any one who knows you, John, knows of your acerbic wit.  One also knows of 
your special insight to the mystical workings of The Standard and one values 
your contribution to the public knowledge base.  One also learns over time to 
devine out which parts to be entertained by and which to take to heart.

I'd say to hell with you, John, but with the way you act, good luck to you.

Dave

P.S. Gratuitous smiley emoticon to follow:


;-)

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 24 07:23:35 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:23:35 +0000
Subject: [TR] heat proof wiring loom tape recommendadtions wanted
In-Reply-To: <abc1aef30710231341s40a4e521sdde3202b50704a71@mail.gmail.com>
References: <abc1aef30710231341s40a4e521sdde3202b50704a71@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W31496CDE76BACB0DE052D6E5940@phx.gbl>

I would recommend shrink wrap tubing.  You can buy four foot sections of it,
in various colors, at any good electronics store (Not Radio Shack).  You will
need a heat gun to shrink it properly.  In tight places a cigarette lighter or
match will also shrink it tight.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last.  Get it
now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971
033

From kentech0822 at verizon.net  Wed Oct 24 07:24:33 2007
From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 09:24:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] heat proof wiring loom tape recommendadtions wanted
In-Reply-To: <200710240015.l9O0FmgL011798@moose.dimebank.com>
References: <200710240015.l9O0FmgL011798@moose.dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <003301c81641$377f6400$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP>

I use this stuff over my fuel line

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=THE%2D14005&N
=700+400356+301924+115&autoview=sku 

They also make a starter shield with ss band to hold it on.

hth
PeterK

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Wed Oct 24 07:34:46 2007
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 06:34:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <cbd.1f1f95df.345086a1@aol.com>
References: <cbd.1f1f95df.345086a1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <471F49F6.7020708@razzolink.com>

DLylis at aol.com wrote:
> Dave,
> Mine (and others) is the other way.  The title says it is a year  before the 
> car was built.  My number is TS74461 which puts it closer to the  end of the 
> run for 60s yet it was titled as a 59.  Others have found the  same phenomenon.


That's strange, to be titled the year before it was built.  Perhaps it 
was swept into a temporal anomaly and appeared on a dealer's lot the 
year before the factory built it?  Or perhaps sometime in the past the 
pink slip was lost and the owner just took a guess at the year when he 
had a DMV issue a new title?

It is common to see a TR3 titled for a year and occasionally two years 
after the build date.  My TR3 was built in May of 1960 and titled as a 
1961.  It was evidently common for cars to take several months to go 
from the UK assembly line to the US dealers floor.  And if there were no 
obvious model year changes, a car sitting on the dealer floor from one 
model year to the next would get sold as the latest model year.

Strange things happen all the time.  I know one small mouth TR3 that 
started life as an engine in a Triumph wrecking yard.  The TR was 
assembled out of parts from several triumphs.  The owner of the wrecking 
yard tried to do a first rate build (The vehicle won a people's choice 
trophy on its first outing).  He got a new commission plate and stamped 
it with the engine number so that the vehicle would appear to be all 
original with all matching numbers then got it registered at DMV as an 
original vehicle that had been unregistered long enough to fall off the 
DMV computers.

So somewhere there is a small mouth TR3 with matching engine and 
commission numbers registered as the year it appeared to be.   Strange 
things happen over the years.  Stranger yet, it may be the only TR3 in 
the world that has a commission number ending in "E".

TeriAnn

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Oct 24 07:43:37 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:43:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <102420071343.4771.471F4C09000684A6000012A322007347489D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Nolan" <foxtrapper at aceweb.com>
> >More coolant, more tubes, more fins but using current radiator 
> >manufacturing materials and techniques in preference to those of the 
> >1960's. That's how we use the inferred term *state of the art* in the UK. I 
> >thought that was how it would be interpreted elsewhere. Obviously I was 
> >mistaken.
> 
> That would be the attitude I was referring to.
> 
> I'd say best of luck to you, but with the way to act, to hell with you. 

TeriAnn has it spot-on, Nolan.  You are out-of-line.  Looking at the exchange about radiator fans, I didn't see where anyone had insulted you.
--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed Oct 24 11:01:21 2007
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 10:01:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date TR6
References: <mailman.26169.1193231052.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001201c8165f$80d228e0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Agree, date car sold did determine car year.

I have heritage papers that show my TR6 as follows:

Date Built 28 October - 1970

Date despatched - 5 November 1970

Destination (dealer) - British Leyland Motor Inc., Detroit, USA

I have owner papers showing car was purchased new in Cleveland, Ohio, USA on
09/09/71 and the car was registered as a 1971.

Bob

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Oct 24 08:23:25 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 07:23:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
References: <d56.f446aeb.34509caa@cs.com>
Message-ID: <002e01c81649$7113b600$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

GEEZ, Guys.  Even though I have electric fans on both of my Spits, I have
stayed out of this sparring match.  Now I am glad I did.

Cna't we all just get along?

Cheers,
Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 6:03 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Push or pull


> In a message dated 10/24/2007 7:05:12 AM Central Daylight Time,
> standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:
> > >That would be the attitude I was referring to.
> > >I'd say best of luck to you, but with the way to act, to hell with you.
> >
> > The absence of smileys and/or emoticons in the last line leaves me
feeling
> > rather puzzled. If this is a majority feeling of the list, I'm quite
willing
> >
> > to unsubscribe - or would someone please tell me where my *attitude* is
seen
> >
> > or perceived as offensive? At no time in my submissions did I ever query
> > anyone's logic of whether it was better to push or pull - but to merely
put
> > a point of view which anyone can challenge.
> >
> Any one who knows you, John, knows of your acerbic wit.  One also knows of
> your special insight to the mystical workings of The Standard and one
values
> your contribution to the public knowledge base.  One also learns over time
to
> devine out which parts to be entertained by and which to take to heart.
>
> I'd say to hell with you, John, but with the way you act, good luck to
you.
>
> Dave
>
> P.S. Gratuitous smiley emoticon to follow:
>
>
> ;-)
> _______________________________________________
> spitlist at cox.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 08:50:51 2007
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 10:50:51 EDT
Subject: [TR] build date TR6
Message-ID: <cd2.1f72e919.3450b5cb@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/24/2007 7:05:20 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
rpeglow at optonline.net writes:

Date  Built 28 October - 1970

Date despatched - 5 November  1970



What a difference a few years later made on British Leyland's ability to  
sell cars and keep their labor forces under control.....my 1976 TR6 was built in  
early July, 1976 but not despatched until late December of 1976!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From drsandner at earthlink.net  Wed Oct 24 08:59:12 2007
From: drsandner at earthlink.net (j randolph sandner)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 10:59:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] carb leak
Message-ID: <006201c8164e$744072a0$0401a8c0@hp6830>

listers,
garage reeks of gas,
found the front carb is leaking.
where do i look for leak /c out taking off carb , etc.
/c out seeing it , could it be a loose something?
car is as original, /c 69000 on the odo.
am leaving for  NY for a protracted period, and do not want my wife to smell
this for any length of time.
i realize it will stop when the bowl empties.
also noted the RF engine mount has the feelbads. can it/they be replaced /c
the engine in place?
thanks
randy

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Wed Oct 24 09:13:18 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 11:13:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
References: <bbe.18db7b18.344ff2af@aol.com>
	<E1IkcQi-0002ps-00@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <00fc01c81650$691ea570$ba1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Every car built comes with a "Certificate of Origin" from the factory, no 
matter how long it may sit in a storage yard or a dealers showroom, when 
said car is finally sold it must be titled according to the "CO" date and 
not the year it is sold in. in plain words the "CO" is the cars "birth 
certificate" for it's entire life span (and beyond sometimes)  "FT" (over 40 
years in the new/used car business) 

From curtcurtiss at gmail.com  Wed Oct 24 09:36:29 2007
From: curtcurtiss at gmail.com (curt@curtcurtiss.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 10:36:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] carb leak
In-Reply-To: <006201c8164e$744072a0$0401a8c0@hp6830>
References: <006201c8164e$744072a0$0401a8c0@hp6830>
Message-ID: <ee25c5d20710240836o2a902624u8cd1dbb5a9dbe2b9@mail.gmail.com>

What year is your car, are they SU's?

I have a 57 TR3 and mine was leaking where the bowl mounts to the carb,
there are two washer/seals that have deteriorated on mine and it leaks until
the bowl empties. I picked up new seals but have not installed them yet but
it looks pretty easy.

Curt

On 10/24/07, j randolph sandner <drsandner at earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> listers,
> garage reeks of gas,
> found the front carb is leaking.
> where do i look for leak /c out taking off carb , etc.
> /c out seeing it , could it be a loose something?
> car is as original, /c 69000 on the odo.
> am leaving for  NY for a protracted period, and do not want my wife to
> smell
> this for any length of time.
> i realize it will stop when the bowl empties.
> also noted the RF engine mount has the feelbads. can it/they be replaced
> /c
> the engine in place?
> thanks
> randy
> _______________________________________________
> curt at curtcurtiss.com
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Wed Oct 24 09:41:37 2007
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 17:41:37 +0200
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
References: <20071024035339.LDRG24626.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <003601c81654$5d8f8590$0500a8c0@Study>

>Randall writes
>However, oddly enough, some fan makers do say to turn the blades around 
>when
configuring as a pusher

 The most sophisticated fans around are probably the propellors used in 
modern propjet aeroplanes with varying aerofoil section along the blade. I 
don't think the designers would be very impressed if if an engine maker 
suggested they get reverse thrust by altering the direction of rotation, 
although they probably would reverse the airflow direction a bit. (The 
airscrews, not the designers.)

2 eurocents worth,

David Brister. 


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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Oct 24 10:07:49 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 12:07:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Results - Cleaning Aluminum
Message-ID: <000001c81658$07e30230$210110ac@bobspc>

Thanks for all the responses about the best way to clean up the aluminum
housing on the Toyota 5 speed I've got.  My intent was to get it clean
enough for handling without the need for latex gloves and a hazmat suit. As
a few of you pointed out, if it's not a concours car why get it nice and
shiny? So I decided to try a coarse wire wheel on my drill along with a
narrow putty knife and some brake cleaner. The wire wheel removed 90% of the
crude and the brake cleaner and putty knife the remainder. The wire wheel
also made it pretty shiny too. It took about 3 hours but I can now handle it
without looking like I've been rolling around in a grease pit.
 
Thanks again
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
HYPERLINK "http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/"http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007
7:39 PM

From drsandner at embarqmail.com  Wed Oct 24 11:20:41 2007
From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:20:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] carb
Message-ID: <005301c81662$d6f8e120$0401a8c0@hp6830>

listers,
thank you to all have replied.
can i remove the bottom lug /c out removing the carb?
if so, how?
thanks
randy

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 24 11:48:47 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 10:48:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <00fc01c81650$691ea570$ba1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <bbe.18db7b18.344ff2af@aol.com><E1IkcQi-0002ps-00@dave.getdave.com>
	<00fc01c81650$691ea570$ba1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <099801c81666$20d93440$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Every car built comes with a "Certificate of Origin" from the 
> factory, no 
> matter how long it may sit in a storage yard or a dealers 
> showroom, when 
> said car is finally sold it must be titled according to the 
> "CO" date and 
> not the year it is sold in. in plain words the "CO" is the 
> cars "birth 
> certificate" for it's entire life span (and beyond sometimes) 

That is true today.  But up until the early 60's, there were no laws
requiring that.  Triumph dealers routinely sold cars as 'new', meaning the
current (or even next) year's model, by simply altering the number on the
paperwork.  

So, for example, all the paperwork for my Sports 6 said it was a 1965 model,
even though the car was completed by the factory in 1963. 

Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Oct 24 11:51:34 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:51:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] carb
In-Reply-To: <005301c81662$d6f8e120$0401a8c0@hp6830>
References: <005301c81662$d6f8e120$0401a8c0@hp6830>
Message-ID: <000001c81666$8758d400$210110ac@bobspc>

Randy,
After I converted my ZS's to TBI I remembered that there was still fuel in
the bowls so I just took a short flat bladed screw driver reached under the
carbs and popped it off. You can see a picture of the plug here toward
bottom of page http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TBI_5.htm

And the float bowl bottom here with the plug still in it
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Carb%20Before%20After2.htm 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf Of j randolph sandner
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 1:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] carb

listers,
thank you to all have replied.
can i remove the bottom lug /c out removing the carb?
if so, how?
thanks
randy

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 24 12:15:01 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 11:15:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] carb leak
In-Reply-To: <006201c8164e$744072a0$0401a8c0@hp6830>
References: <006201c8164e$744072a0$0401a8c0@hp6830>
Message-ID: <09a101c81669$cb3feac0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> garage reeks of gas,
> found the front carb is leaking.
> where do i look for leak /c out taking off carb , etc.

Randy, it's always good to repeat in each post what car you are talking
about, and in the case of carbs, which carb you have.  Since you copied to
the 6-pack list, I'll assume you're talking about a TR6 with
Zenith-Stromberg carbs.  

Actually, in any case, I would suggest you remove the carb to solve the
leak.  With a ZS carb, it's very likely to be a problem with the float
valve, which can potentially be serviced with the carb still on the car.
But it's rather difficult to see or even feel what is happening while doing
it, so for a novice I would recommend removing the carb.

Depending on the vintage of ZS carb, it might also be the O-ring that seals
the plug under the main jet to the float bowl, or even just the plug being
loose (on early carbs with the brass plug).

> i realize it will stop when the bowl empties.

If it is the float valve, it will also cause other problems, like possibly
dripping fuel onto the hot exhaust manifold while the engine is running.  I
would suggest you tend to this sooner rather than later, and not just
because your wife might object to the smell.

> also noted the RF engine mount has the feelbads. can it/they be replaced
/c
> the engine in place?

Can be done, but you will have to arrange an alternate support for the
engine while doing the R&R of the mount and be very certain it's secure.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 24 12:22:01 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 11:22:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <471F49F6.7020708@razzolink.com>
References: <cbd.1f1f95df.345086a1@aol.com> <471F49F6.7020708@razzolink.com>
Message-ID: <09a501c8166a$c578ec80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Stranger yet, it may be the 
> only TR3 in 
> the world that has a commission number ending in "E".

FWIW, many years after I bought TS39781LO, I realized that the paperwork had
a different commission number on it.  No one, including me, noticed the
discrepancy until the State of CA started requiring insurance companies to
file directly with the state, and using VIN numbers to match policies to
license plate numbers.  After two years in a row where the state did not
register my insurance (requiring me to make an appearance at the local DMV
with paperwork in hand), *I* finally realized what the problem was.

So, I took the car to the DMV, they checked the number on the car, and
changed the paperwork to match !  I got a new title with TS39781LO on it.

My point being simply that it's easy for mistakes to creep in; and at least
sometimes easy to 'correct' them.  Since no one had reported TS39781LO
stolen (to the state of CA), I got to keep it even though what I started
with was the title to a different car.

Randall

From cak at dimebank.com  Wed Oct 24 12:24:04 2007
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 11:24:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <mailman.26169.1193231052.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.26169.1193231052.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <471F8DC4.7070807@dimebank.com>

> David Lylis writes:
>> Which raises and interesting question.  My 60 was titled  as a 59 which I 
>> thought was odd, but since have met others who's cars are  titled in the year 
>> before they were built.  Anyone know why that  happened?
> 
> My first Triumph was also oddly dated, titled as 61 and built in 60.
> 
> As I understand it, this wasn't just because things were built at
> the end of the year to be prepared for unveiling in January.  I believe
> the practice (at least for Triumphs) was to title the car based on the
> year it was sold, not built, so the owner didn't feel like they were
> getting an old car.  I don't think it mattered much back then since
> the distinctions between two different TR3As are not based just on
> the production year.  A 2008 Honda Civic may be entirely different
> from a 2007 Honda Civic, but that's not really the case with Triumphs
> (at least not in the same sense).

This wasn't a Triumph practice so much as a state DMV practice. The car 
is titled as of the first sale date. Some dealers/states went so far as 
to add small embossed plates to the VIN tag (such as they were) to 
indicate this.

For most cars, this isn't a big issue, because they sold within 60 days 
of being built.

My Morris Minor Traveller was built in '59, but apparently sat on a lot 
until someone bought it ... in '61. It's titled as a '61.

chris

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 24 13:02:23 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 12:02:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <fac10b170710232003o21b5fe08vbf148205d7ae1b03@mail.gmail.com>
References: <fac10b170710232003o21b5fe08vbf148205d7ae1b03@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <09b101c81670$693cce40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> So, to those who have been around a bit longer, does this just get
> better? Or is this a symptom of the long slippery downhill slide I am
> experiencing here?

Little of both, IMO.  Eventually you'll discover that you've worn mismatched
clothes to the beach and none at all when you go to town ...

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 24 13:12:29 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 12:12:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] An *oops* day, and a question about Aprons.
In-Reply-To: <E1Ik540-00009h-00@dave.getdave.com>
References: <E1Ik540-00009h-00@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <09bb01c81671$d29c18e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Anyways, I have a feeling there's no way to find out the truth,
> but does anyone have any thoughts on where to get more info?

One thing that might be interesting to look for : the TR3 had holes in the
inner wings (fenders) behind the front turn signal lamps.  The rear of the
lampholder actually stuck out into the wheel well to get covered by mud,
etc.  

Because of the change in lamps, the 3A did not have holes, but had pressed
'dimples' instead.

Even if the apron was changed, it's unlikely the inner fenders would have
been changed just to eliminate those holes.  At best, they might have been
covered, but more likely they are still there if your car was originally a
'small mouth'.

Randall

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Wed Oct 24 13:48:32 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 12:48:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <20071024035339.LDRG24626.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>
References: <20071024035339.LDRG24626.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <E82471DD1C614567B107C74E6E287B73@GeoPC>

The blades on my electric are shaped like a little airfoil... a slightly 
curved profile.  This, I suppose, makes them better in the one direction.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>

> However, oddly enough, some fan makers do say to turn the blades around 
> when
> configuring as a pusher instead of a puller (in addition to reversing 
> shaft
> rotation by swapping the wires).  Apparently their fans are more efficient
> when turning in a particular direction. 

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Wed Oct 24 13:56:12 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 12:56:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <cc3.1a038685.345098d4@cs.com>
References: <cc3.1a038685.345098d4@cs.com>
Message-ID: <92FBF4A7ACF243CAA18C965AB722E27B@GeoPC>

I use both mounted as Dave describes with the electric pusher manually 
controlled when I can see the need for it coming up (long light, slow 
traffic, etc).

FWIW, the original crank (on cars so equipped and still having the crank 
hole in the rad) can still be used.  I had to remove one section of rib on 
the fan guard, then the (slow) insertion of the crank just pushes the fan 
blade out of the way and in it goes.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>

> ..I mounted an electric fan on my TR6 as a pusher leaving the engine 
> driven fan in
> place.  Since the original fan services the lower 2/3's of the radiator 
> the
> upper 1/3 doesn't get any air movement when the car is stopped.  I mounted 
> the
> electric fan to service the upper 2/3's so that when both fans are 
> operating I
> get airflow across the entire face of the radiator. 

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Wed Oct 24 14:01:39 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:01:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <099801c81666$20d93440$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <bbe.18db7b18.344ff2af@aol.com><E1IkcQi-0002ps-00@dave.getdave.com><00fc01c81650$691ea570$ba1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
	<099801c81666$20d93440$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <060028E41CE742ED8329E485841D8A95@GeoPC>

Indeed, when I purchased my TR4 6 years ago I had no problem getting the MVD 
to change it to a '64 (build year) even though it had been registered for 36 
years as a 1965.

Wanted it to be a '64 because the state of Arizona allows year of 
manufacture plates but there were no 1965 plates (just a '64 plate with a 
sticker).

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] build date of TR3A


> That is true today.  But up until the early 60's, there were no laws
> requiring that.  Triumph dealers routinely sold cars as 'new', meaning the
> current (or even next) year's model, by simply altering the number on the
> paperwork. 

From cbfoch at charter.net  Wed Oct 24 14:23:07 2007
From: cbfoch at charter.net (Craig Foch)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:23:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <471FA9AB.9090902@charter.net>

No one has mentioned a thermostatic fan clutch, which would offer some 
of the horsepower-savings of an electric fan without the wiring and 
fabrication hassles. Does anyone have experience with one on a Triumph?

Craig Foch
1963 TR4
San Luis Obispo, CA

From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Oct 24 15:28:32 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 21:28:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <102420072128.158.471FB9000000F51B0000009E22070032019D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net>

Sure, my 73 MkII Stag has the fan clutch assembly and we all know how cool they have tended to run  ;^)   Not hot up to 105 degree days on the way to Rockford two years ago, but A/C increased the temp so wasn't used. That made Janet really happy - to have air and not be able to use it. I'm still working on the problem. She made the trip to Jekyll Island 200 miles in the upper 80's and had no overheating problems, but we didn't use the a/c either.

Tom

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Craig Foch <cbfoch at charter.net> 

> No one has mentioned a thermostatic fan clutch, which would offer some 
> of the horsepower-savings of an electric fan without the wiring and 
> fabrication hassles. Does anyone have experience with one on a Triumph? 
> 
> Craig Foch 
> 1963 TR4 
> San Luis Obispo, CA 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 24 15:51:33 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 14:51:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <102420072128.158.471FB9000000F51B0000009E22070032019D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net>
References: <102420072128.158.471FB9000000F51B0000009E22070032019D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <09c401c81688$0ae7b5e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Sure, my 73 MkII Stag has the fan clutch assembly and we all 
> know how cool they have tended to run  ;^)

Tom, are you talking about the original Torquatrol assembly, or have you
added an aftermarket fan clutch ?

The original Stag unit is not a clutch per se and spins the fan at
essentially the same speed regardless of radiator temperature.  It never
locks the fan to the crankshaft as a true clutch would.

Which I suspect is a Good Thing !  The Torquatrol was bad on my first Stag
when I got it and since Mk I units are rare, I temporarily locked the fan to
the crank.  The result was a ruined radiator when I hit some water and the
fan screwed it's way into the radiator.

As I'm sure you know, Stags equipped with AC should also have two 'pusher'
fans in front of the AC condensor.  I've collected 6 original fans so far,
and all of them seem to have stiff bearings (one is locked up entirely).
That, plus the many electrical problems that Stags seem particularly prone
to (even more than other Triumphs IMO), will very likely result in those
fans turning too slowly, which might be part of your problem.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct 24 16:01:26 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 18:01:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <d5e.14e519a9.34511ab6@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/24/2007 3:23:35 PM Central Daylight Time, 
cbfoch at charter.net writes: 
> No one has mentioned a thermostatic fan clutch, which would offer some 
> of the horsepower-savings of an electric fan without the wiring and 
> fabrication hassles. Does anyone have experience with one on a Triumph?
> 
I was going to mention that but my post was overly long even without it.

The TR7's had this device and they have been known to fail causing a horrible 
noise like the engine was coming apart.

But they were very common on domestic products and still used on some trucks.

Another option is the flex fan.  This is a fan with flexible blades that will 
fold towards flat as the speed and fan loading increases.  These are about as 
noisy as fixed fans.

Dave   

From dorpaul at negia.net  Wed Oct 24 16:24:18 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 18:24:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 troughs or gutters?
Message-ID: <006901c8168c$a6d0e680$d094df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Why in the world do the 'gutters' on the front fenders on the TR3  seemingly
dump water under the scuttle?  Or maybe it is that, water is meant to flow the
other way and off the scuttle & bonnet into these gutters and flow toward the
headlights (at the other end of these 'fender gutters'?)

If no water flows towards the rear of the car within these 'gutters', then,
whynot seal the scuttle/fender so that no water travels up these gutters?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey

From cak at dimebank.com  Wed Oct 24 16:38:48 2007
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 15:38:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <mailman.26301.1193264680.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.26301.1193264680.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <471FC978.9060308@dimebank.com>

> No one has mentioned a thermostatic fan clutch, which would offer some 
> of the horsepower-savings of an electric fan without the wiring and 
> fabrication hassles. Does anyone have experience with one on a Triumph?

On both my GT6+ and TR4A, yes.

The GT6+ has a fancy one with a remote thermocouple and and adjustment 
pot, as well as facility for sensing when the a/c is on and an external 
override. I mounted the thermocouple at the bottom of the radiator and 
ran a small toggle to the side of the dash for the override. The toggle 
is a lighted unit; I don't remember the details at the moment but was 
able to arrange things such that the light comes on whenever the fan is 
running.

I set the adjustment such that the fan comes on when the bottom of the 
radiator is about 185 degF; at that point, the radiator needs help.

This has been a fairly successful install. I started with a 12" pusher, 
but found that the fan would come on in cool weather while cruising on 
the freeway! I decided that the fan was blocking too much of the natural 
through-flow, and moved to a puller. I managed to mount a 10" puller, 
slightly off-center to clear the crank pulley, and it's not really quite 
big enough for hot weather since I shaved the head a bit. I'll be 
researching thinner/more efficient fans soon.

The TR4A is a much simpler install. The thermocouple is a fixed-temp 
unit, inserted in the ground lead, mounted to the radiator with a couple 
of stainless "nails" that go through the core. By (tedious) raising and 
lowering the mounting point, I was able to get the fan to come on when 
the temp guage reads about 75 degC (a bit right of center).

The fan there is a puller, mounted to the suspension cross bar with U 
bolts. This is easy, but the shroud is not in contact with the core, so 
some (much?) of the fan's capacity is wasted. I'll eventually revisit 
this and add mounting tabs to the radiator frame.

Best,
chris

From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Oct 24 16:58:15 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 18:58:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
References: <102420072128.158.471FB9000000F51B0000009E22070032019D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net>
	<09c401c81688$0ae7b5e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c81691$5d404060$5918e247@DCS78M81>

I'll do some checking on the electric fans, they "seem" to turn fine, but 
the temp gauge does climb when it's hot (90+) and I try to use the York 
compressor/Triumph a/c unit.
Friday at Jekyll Island we went on a driving tour to St. Simon's Island and 
had lunch. It started to rain and so in the low 80's with the a/c on doing 
about 45 mph there was no increase in temp.  I always assumed that 90 was an 
extremely hot day in the UK and Stags weren't designed to cool enough at 
temps above 85 or so F.  I've recored the radiator but have not replaced the 
two pusher fans. I've threatened to replace the compressor with a modern 
rotary one, but may try substitute fans first.
Thanks
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Push or pull


>> Sure, my 73 MkII Stag has the fan clutch assembly and we all
>> know how cool they have tended to run  ;^)
>
> Tom, are you talking about the original Torquatrol assembly, or have you
> added an aftermarket fan clutch ?
>
> The original Stag unit is not a clutch per se and spins the fan at
> essentially the same speed regardless of radiator temperature.  It never
> locks the fan to the crankshaft as a true clutch would.
>
> Which I suspect is a Good Thing !  The Torquatrol was bad on my first Stag
> when I got it and since Mk I units are rare, I temporarily locked the fan 
> to
> the crank.  The result was a ruined radiator when I hit some water and the
> fan screwed it's way into the radiator.
>
> As I'm sure you know, Stags equipped with AC should also have two 'pusher'
> fans in front of the AC condensor.  I've collected 6 original fans so far,
> and all of them seem to have stiff bearings (one is locked up entirely).
> That, plus the many electrical problems that Stags seem particularly prone
> to (even more than other Triumphs IMO), will very likely result in those
> fans turning too slowly, which might be part of your problem.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
> tfansher at comcast.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Oct 24 17:03:53 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 19:03:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
References: <102420072128.158.471FB9000000F51B0000009E22070032019D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net><09c401c81688$0ae7b5e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<000c01c81691$5d404060$5918e247@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <002001c81692$2689a3d0$5918e247@DCS78M81>

I also heard that no A/C units were installed in the Stags in the UK.  
JonMac???
Tom

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Oct 24 17:25:42 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 19:25:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] more on fans
Message-ID: <471F9C36.17513.1BF41F5@localhost>

Two more thoughts on fans.  When I bought my Spitfire it had been 
through some curious times.  A PO had found it susceptible to 
overheating so her favorite LBC shop had cleaned out the radiator, 
replaced it, flushed the block, added a manual fan switch, maybe even 
dropped the car off a cliff for all I know, and finally swapped the 
engine.  It still overhet repeatedly.  Finally they discovered that 
the Lucas fan just wasn't spinning very well.  It appeared to turn on 
and no one had noticed that it spun more slowly than it should've.  A 
new motor solved the problem.  But by then she had sold the car to 
the guy I bought it from.

The second point is that my first Fiat, a '69 124 Spider, had a fan 
coupled by an electromagnetic clutch.  WHen the temp sensor read high 
enough it would engage the clutch by feeding current to the fan 
through a brush similar to the brushes in a generator.  I had trouble 
with it only once.  The cause, I discovered, was the brush dangling 
by its spring from its holder.  Never figured out how it came out, 
maybe from a bonehead mechanic's error.  Once I re-mounted the brush 
the temp went back to being well-behaved.  I've never sesen another 
fan clutch like that, but it certainly worked.  I suppose a plain 
electric motor is simpler.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007 7:39 PM

From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org  Wed Oct 24 17:34:19 2007
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 19:34:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] more on fans
In-Reply-To: <471F9C36.17513.1BF41F5@localhost>
References: <471F9C36.17513.1BF41F5@localhost>
Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20071024193126.04562e08@216.7.163.243>

All,

All this fan talk has me wondering... I have been thinking about putting in 
an electric fan since I bought the car, but being a little auto-tech 
un-savvy, I have hesitated because I can only find the parts alone.  That 
is, I can not find a kit that has everything I need, with instructions on 
how to do it.

Does anyone know of a electric fan kit for the late model TR6 that has 
"everything included"?

Thanks!
             Aldwyn

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Oct 24 17:56:41 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 19:56:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] more on fans
In-Reply-To: <6.2.1.2.2.20071024193126.04562e08@216.7.163.243>
References: <471F9C36.17513.1BF41F5@localhost>
	<6.2.1.2.2.20071024193126.04562e08@216.7.163.243>
Message-ID: <000601c81699$88609ee0$210110ac@bobspc>

I got my fan (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm) from Spal
(http://www.spalusa.com/) and it came with everything I needed. At their
site, when you select the size fan you want, it also shows all the
accessories you'll need such as the mounting brackets and the harness,
thermostat and relay.

My first fan was from Hayden (http://tinyurl.com/yuwlto) and it too included
everything.

Both products came with pretty easy instructions.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Aldwyn
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 7:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] more on fans

All,

All this fan talk has me wondering... I have been thinking about putting in
an electric fan since I bought the car, but being a little auto-tech
un-savvy, I have hesitated because I can only find the parts alone.  That
is, I can not find a kit that has everything I need, with instructions on
how to do it.

Does anyone know of a electric fan kit for the late model TR6 that has
"everything included"?

Thanks!
             Aldwyn
_______________________________________________
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007
7:39 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007
7:39 PM

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Oct 24 18:16:22 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 00:16:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] My TR Problem Is All Is Well
Message-ID: <102520070016.28089.471FE056000D5D4B00006DB922165486869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Hmmm....
All is well with the world, and that's what's wrong.  I have a '59 TR3A...a Triumph with Lucas wiring, and the car is running like a dream.  Thank you, Fred Thomas, for sending that 25D dizzy, which has brought power and acceleration back!  Experimented with the timing until the engine is throaty, smooth and powerful again. Can't wait for your Pertrinox to make it even better.  Didn't find a better price anywhere (NFI).
Will be driving the 3 over two hundred miles into the North Country tomorrow on business stuff with the top down in New Hampshire Indian Summer.  Will open a meeting of food pantry people from all over the state with my hair messed up from either the wind or the Gortex hat, depending on how cold it is in the morning.  That's okay.  I think citizens like to see government employees looking ragged...makes them feel like they're getting their money's worth....
Can't tell if I'm hoping or dreading that something in the 3 will break down so I can stop waiting for the other shoe to drop.
...Or, could it be, that after a complete frame off and about 15K miles, I've finally debugged the thing, and can expect trouble free driving?
Yah, right.
Gawd, I love this car.  
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Oct 24 18:21:12 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 00:21:12 +0000
Subject: [TR] Team Triumph
Message-ID: <102520070021.15710.471FE178000C30F200003D5E22165486869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

GO RED SOX!

...in a TR 3  (obligatory Triumph content)

Terry Smith
New Hampshire

From rx74evr at mchsi.com  Wed Oct 24 18:37:20 2007
From: rx74evr at mchsi.com (rx74evr at mchsi.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 19:37:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Team Triumph
References: <102520070021.15710.471FE178000C30F200003D5E22165486869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003801c8169f$34182d70$6500a8c0@butterb3msfn9p>

Well, now that my Cleveland Indians are out of the running, i can only 
say...


SQUASH THEM RED SOX! ( with a British boot )

LOL

Paul Seedoff


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 7:21 PM
Subject: [TR] Team Triumph


> GO RED SOX!
>
> ...in a TR 3  (obligatory Triumph content)
>
> Terry Smith
> New Hampshire
> _______________________________________________
> rx74evr at mchsi.com
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org  Wed Oct 24 18:43:36 2007
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 20:43:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] more on fans
In-Reply-To: <000601c81699$88609ee0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <471F9C36.17513.1BF41F5@localhost>
	<6.2.1.2.2.20071024193126.04562e08@216.7.163.243>
	<000601c81699$88609ee0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20071024204140.045698a0@216.7.163.243>

Hey Bob!  Thanks for the link!

My problem is, I dont know which accessories I will need.  For instance, 
they have several types of mounting brackets.  I am not sure which ones (or 
all?) I need.  I dont know what wire sets I need, either.  About the only 
thing I do know is that I wouldn't need the reverser.  :)

Thanks!
           Aldwyn


At 07:56 PM 10/24/2007, Bob Danielson wrote:
>I got my fan (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm) from Spal
>(http://www.spalusa.com/) and it came with everything I needed. At their
>site, when you select the size fan you want, it also shows all the
>accessories you'll need such as the mounting brackets and the harness,
>thermostat and relay.
>
>My first fan was from Hayden (http://tinyurl.com/yuwlto) and it too included
>everything.
>
>Both products came with pretty easy instructions.
>
>
>Bob Danielson
>1975 TR6 CF38503U
>Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
>[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of Aldwyn
>Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 7:34 PM
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [TR] more on fans
>
>All,
>
>All this fan talk has me wondering... I have been thinking about putting in
>an electric fan since I bought the car, but being a little auto-tech
>un-savvy, I have hesitated because I can only find the parts alone.  That
>is, I can not find a kit that has everything I need, with instructions on
>how to do it.
>
>Does anyone know of a electric fan kit for the late model TR6 that has
>"everything included"?
>
>Thanks!
>              Aldwyn
>_______________________________________________
>75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>Triumphs mailing list
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG.
>Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007
>7:39 PM
>
>
>No virus found in this outgoing message.
>Checked by AVG.
>Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007
>7:39 PM

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 19:36:41 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 21:36:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] more on fans
Message-ID: <c5f.1b5c840f.34514d29@aol.com>

Red Sox fans, that is!!
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From banjonut at verizon.net  Wed Oct 24 20:16:46 2007
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 19:16:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
Message-ID: <00b701c816ad$181baf80$6500a8c0@HAMPC>

Fred,

The Triumph folks had a fix for that.  They just changed the declared model
year of the car to match the year in which it was first sold, so it was always
a "new" car no matter how old it was.  My TR3A, TS68164, was built in February
1960, but was registered in California as a '62 because that's when it was
first sold, after apparently sitting around the docks in L.A. for 2 years.
The dealer (or some other factory rep) simply added a little plate to the
firewall, officially declaring the model year of the car.  Mine suddenly
became a 1962 TR3A even though it was nearly 2 years old...what a miracle!
The crummy little sign (and I do mean crummy)  reads: "STC 62", presumably for
Standard Triumph Corp, 1962.  The California registration shows the VIN number
as: STC62TS68164L.  The little plate was screwed onto the firewall, so if it
didn't sell in '62 they could easily replace it with "STC 63" and so forth.  I
think they got away with it because the cars all looked pretty much the same,
and the buying public was clueless.

So...let me see if I have this right.  Using the same "Triumph Logic", I
should be able to attach a little plate to my forehead and declare a new
birthday for myself?  Maybe I can lose 10 years?  How cool is that?


Steve


=================
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 11:13:18 -0400
From: "FRED E THOMAS" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] build date of TR3A
To: "David Ljung Madison" <team.net at daveola.com>,
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <00fc01c81650$691ea570$ba1e7247 at fred8kwiskhcfu>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=original

Every car built comes with a "Certificate of Origin" from the factory, no
matter how long it may sit in a storage yard or a dealers showroom, when
said car is finally sold it must be titled according to the "CO" date and
not the year it is sold in. in plain words the "CO" is the cars "birth
certificate" for it's entire life span (and beyond sometimes)  "FT" (over 40
years in the new/used car business)

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 20:47:42 2007
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 22:47:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <d5e.14e519a9.34511ab6@cs.com>
References: <d5e.14e519a9.34511ab6@cs.com>
Message-ID: <8C9E4C88CB64186-3A8-5BCF@WEBMAIL-MC21.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave1massey at cs.com

In a message dated 10/24/2007 3:23:35 PM Central Daylight Time,
cbfoch at charter.net writes:
> No one has mentioned a thermostatic fan clutch, which would offer 
some
> of the horsepower-savings of an electric fan without the wiring and
> fabrication hassles. Does anyone have experience with one on a 
Triumph?....

The TR7's had this device and they have been known to fail causing a 
horrible
noise like the engine was coming apart.

==AM==
Some later Spitfires (and a lot of Volvo 140 series cars) also had 
them. The other horrible noise when they failed was the sound of fan 
blades shredding radiator cores. Been there, done that.... (possibly 
more common on Volvos?)

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
http://mail.aol.com

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 21:44:10 2007
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 23:44:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
Message-ID: <bdf.1fced7a4.34516b0a@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/24/2007 4:43:10 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
foxtrapper at aceweb.com writes:

That  would be the attitude I was referring to.

I'd say best of luck to you,  but with the way to act, to hell with you.  
_______________________________________________




Yo foxtrapper, who peed in your post toasties?  The man has been a  gentleman 
and you are being an ass.
 
Robert Houston



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Thu Oct 25 02:21:18 2007
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 10:21:18 +0200
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
References: <mailman.26301.1193264680.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<471FC978.9060308@dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <005f01c816e0$0511b0f0$0500a8c0@Study>

Chris Kantarjiev wrote:

>but found that the fan would come on in cool weather while cruising on
the freeway!

Unless you incorporated a blocking diode or some kind of relay arrangement, 
the light showing the fan running at cruising speed was probably lit from 
the current generated from the fan windmilling.
At least that's what happened after I first installed a fan and I found it 
very irritating.
I contrived a rather inelegant solution incorporating a relay in the light 
circuit.

David Brister
1967 TR4A
77785 O. 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 5682 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Oct 25 02:36:04 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 09:36:04 +0100
Subject: [TR] To Push or To Pull
Message-ID: <01f601c816e2$1566fcb0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

My dear Friends

Your many kind and generous messages requesting I do not absent myself from 
these sepulchered portals of oily machines have arrived over the last 24 
hours. Thank you to all who spoke up. I am flattered by what was said and 
feel entirely undeserving of such accolades.

Thank you

Jonmac 

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Thu Oct 25 03:50:44 2007
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 05:50:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] more on fans
References: <471F9C36.17513.1BF41F5@localhost><6.2.1.2.2.20071024193126.04562e08@216.7.163.243><000601c81699$88609ee0$210110ac@bo
	bspc> <6.2.1.2.2.20071024204140.045698a0@216.7.163.243>
Message-ID: <004101c816ec$838b0c40$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>

30130011 is their universal adjustable mounting bracket.  If you don't know 
the exact dimensions of what you want, or think things might change as you 
progress on the job, this is the bracket to use.

30130013 is the type to avoid.  This punches through the radiator and has 
the fan hanging off the cooling tubes.  A very common approach in the 
aftermaket, but very poor.  Many a radiator failure is directly attributable 
to these.

Their electrical kits are cute, but not necessary.  You can buy the same 
relay for $5 from Radio Shack.  The temperature sensors are about $15 from 
various parts stores.  The sensors Spal lists are only for threaded 
radiators, surprisingly, they don't list the strap on types that are used in 
applications where there is no provision for a threaded sensor.  Summit 
lists this type as I recall.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aldwyn" <aldwyn at sylvancircle.org>
To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] more on fans


> Hey Bob!  Thanks for the link!
>
> My problem is, I dont know which accessories I will need.  For instance,
> they have several types of mounting brackets.  I am not sure which ones 
> (or
> all?) I need.  I dont know what wire sets I need, either.  About the only
> thing I do know is that I wouldn't need the reverser.  :)

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Thu Oct 25 03:54:10 2007
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 05:54:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] more on fans
References: <471F9C36.17513.1BF41F5@localhost>
	<6.2.1.2.2.20071024193126.04562e08@216.7.163.243>
Message-ID: <004c01c816ec$fde0f310$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>

Rimmers, RB7065.  Undoubtedly the others have kits as well.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aldwyn" <aldwyn at sylvancircle.org>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] more on fans


> All,
>
> All this fan talk has me wondering... I have been thinking about putting 
> in
> an electric fan since I bought the car, but being a little auto-tech
> un-savvy, I have hesitated because I can only find the parts alone.  That
> is, I can not find a kit that has everything I need, with instructions on
> how to do it.
>
> Does anyone know of a electric fan kit for the late model TR6 that has
> "everything included"?

From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org  Thu Oct 25 06:36:07 2007
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 08:36:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] more on fans
In-Reply-To: <004c01c816ec$fde0f310$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>
References: <471F9C36.17513.1BF41F5@localhost>
	<6.2.1.2.2.20071024193126.04562e08@216.7.163.243>
	<004c01c816ec$fde0f310$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20071025083459.04b1ed40@216.7.163.243>

At 05:54 AM 10/25/2007, Nolan wrote:
>Rimmers, RB7065.  Undoubtedly the others have kits as well.

*** Hey, this might be the ticket!  Just sent them an email to see if it 
comes with "everything needed".

*** Thanks for all the info and tips so far, gents!

- Aldwyn

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Oct 25 06:47:45 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 08:47:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] more on fans
In-Reply-To: <6.2.1.2.2.20071025083459.04b1ed40@216.7.163.243>
References: <004c01c816ec$fde0f310$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <47205831.30751.49D8D98@localhost>

On 25 Oct 2007 at 8:36, Aldwyn wrote:

> *** Hey, this might be the ticket!  Just sent them an email to see if it 
> comes with "everything needed".

Dearest Undisclosed Recipients, ...

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
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From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Oct 25 07:00:22 2007
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 09:00:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] more on fans
References: <471F9C36.17513.1BF41F5@localhost><6.2.1.2.2.20071024193126.04562e08@216.7.163.243><004c01c816ec$fde0f310$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>
	<6.2.1.2.2.20071025083459.04b1ed40@216.7.163.243>
Message-ID: <002d01c81707$00fdc4a0$5918e247@DCS78M81>

I used this part that I got at Stoneleigh last Feb. It's a stainless steel 
pipe used in the lower radiator hose with a fitting for an electric switch 
in line. Works for me and available at Revington.
www.revington.com
part number  130039SST

I bought two if anyone needs a picture, I'm planning to use it on the TR4 
soon -- maybe

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aldwyn" <aldwyn at sylvancircle.org>
To: "Nolan" <foxtrapper at aceweb.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 8:36 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] more on fans


> At 05:54 AM 10/25/2007, Nolan wrote:
>>Rimmers, RB7065.  Undoubtedly the others have kits as well.
>
> *** Hey, this might be the ticket!  Just sent them an email to see if it
> comes with "everything needed".
>
> *** Thanks for all the info and tips so far, gents!
>
> - Aldwyn
> _______________________________________________
> tfansher at comcast.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 25 10:09:04 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 16:09:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] more on fans
In-Reply-To: <47205831.30751.49D8D98@localhost>
References: <004c01c816ec$fde0f310$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>
	<47205831.30751.49D8D98@localhost>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W2468928414AD299E3724FCE5950@phx.gbl>

Good fans always help but they need channeling to get maximum performance.  I
built an air dam/skid plate for my TR3A.  It covers from below the radiator to
just behind the pan.  I made it out of 0.040 aluminum.  I attached it to the
bottom of the frame with sheet metal screws.  This keeps all the air flow in
the engine compartment until it reaches the back of the engine.  This mod
stabized my temperature readings in all kinds of traffic and speeds.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last.  Get it
now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971
033

From als6point9 at gmail.com  Thu Oct 25 10:47:13 2007
From: als6point9 at gmail.com (Al Al)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 11:47:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lug nuts
Message-ID: <fc6aeae80710250947r7a08364eq63aca50f725a0953@mail.gmail.com>

All

I have a Triumph GT6 that I bought from a gentlaman in Oklahoma about a year
ago but have not collected as it's sitting in a field with no wheels.

I finally managed to find some wheels for it and am now able to get it.

Can anyone tell me what size lug nuts this car takes so that I can bring
them with me?

All the best

Al

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Oct 25 10:56:38 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 16:56:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] Lug nuts
Message-ID: <102520071656.15770.4720CAC6000AB48900003D9A22070215739D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Al Al" <als6point9 at gmail.com>
> All
> 
> I have a Triumph GT6 that I bought from a gentlaman in Oklahoma about a year
> ago but have not collected as it's sitting in a field with no wheels.
> 
> I finally managed to find some wheels for it and am now able to get it.
> 
> Can anyone tell me what size lug nuts this car takes so that I can bring
> them with me?
> 
> All the best

I believe the original stud size is 3/8 fine. People have been known to upgrade, though.  I put 1/2" ones in my Europa, and 7/16" is not uncommon.

Someone will correct me if the GT6 did not use the same studs as the Spitfire and Lotus cars.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From dkspence at telus.net  Thu Oct 25 11:01:58 2007
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 11:01:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] Re build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <mailman.26434.1193330854.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.26434.1193330854.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BA88469B-2B38-470F-A497-EE7483BCF58B@telus.net>

Sure Steve. Just make sure you use three inch screws. That ought to  
release at least ten years of accumulated crud.     : >
>
> So...let me see if I have this right.  Using the same "Triumph  
> Logic", I
> should be able to attach a little plate to my forehead and declare  
> a new
> birthday for myself?  Maybe I can lose 10 years?  How cool is that?
>
>
> Steve

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Thu Oct 25 11:45:01 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 11:45:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <102420072128.158.471FB9000000F51B0000009E22070032019D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net>
References: <102420072128.158.471FB9000000F51B0000009E22070032019D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4720D61D.1010205@tscusa.org>

tfansher at comcast.net wrote:
> Sure, my 73 MkII Stag has the fan clutch assembly and we all know how cool they have tended to run  ;^)  Tom
Sorry Tom, that is not a fan "clutch".  It is called a "torquatrol".  
Its function is a rev limiter limiting the fan speed to about 2500 RPM 
maximum to keep fan noise down and to keep it from self destructing at 
high RPMS, not to thermostatically clutch in and out at temperature.

If it is not working, then it is not driving the fan and you will 
probably overheat at idle, and you are not moving the heat through and 
out of the engine compartment.  But you also have electric fans that 
switch on when the AC is on.  If these are stock AC fans, you may 
consider replacing them with a pair of newer, more efficient pusher fans.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 25 12:17:05 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 11:17:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Push or pull
In-Reply-To: <005f01c816e0$0511b0f0$0500a8c0@Study>
References: <mailman.26301.1193264680.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net><471FC978.9060308@dimebank.com>
	<005f01c816e0$0511b0f0$0500a8c0@Study>
Message-ID: <0a6201c81733$3f70d7f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Unless you incorporated a blocking diode or some kind of 
> relay arrangement, 
> the light showing the fan running at cruising speed was 
> probably lit from 
> the current generated from the fan windmilling.

When I temporarily connected the fan directly into the ignition circuit
(through a switch), the fan would generate enough current to keep the engine
running for several seconds after I turned the key off.  I found it rather
amusing.

Randall

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Thu Oct 25 12:40:37 2007
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 11:40:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] more on fans
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W2468928414AD299E3724FCE5950@phx.gbl>
References: <004c01c816ec$fde0f310$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>
	<47205831.30751.49D8D98@localhost>
	<BAY110-W2468928414AD299E3724FCE5950@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <292E4CA7-0FAE-43C7-94EB-AC28058202B6@cox.net>

I did the same thing on my TR3.  See  http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
Air-Dam.html

John


On  25 Oct, 2007, at 9:09 AM, tom white wrote:

> Good fans always help but they need channeling to get maximum
> performance.  I
> built an air dam/skid plate for my TR3A.  It covers from below the
> radiator to
> just behind the pan.  I made it out of 0.040 aluminum.  I attached
> it to the
> bottom of the frame with sheet metal screws.  This keeps all the
> air flow in
> the engine compartment until it reaches the back of the engine.
> This mod
> stabized my temperature readings in all kinds of traffic and speeds.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at
> last.  Get it
> now.
> http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?
> pid=CL100626971
> 033
> _______________________________________________
> 60tr3a at cox.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From banjonut at verizon.net  Thu Oct 25 13:40:31 2007
From: banjonut at verizon.net (banjonut at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 14:40:31 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] build dates
Message-ID: <6290044.4799101193341231685.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net>

Don,
I was thinking more along the lines of lag bolts.

And thanks for the compliment, but I've been accumulating crud for a lot longer than ten years!


Steve

=========


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 11:01:58 -0600
From: Don Spence <dkspence at telus.net>
Subject: [TR] Re build date of TR3A
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <BA88469B-2B38-470F-A497-EE7483BCF58B at telus.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Sure Steve. Just make sure you use three inch screws. That ought to  
release at least ten years of accumulated crud.     : >
>
> So...let me see if I have this right.  Using the same "Triumph  
> Logic", I
> should be able to attach a little plate to my forehead and declare  
> a new
> birthday for myself?  Maybe I can lose 10 years?  How cool is that?
>
>
> Steve

From tidbinbilla at cox.net  Thu Oct 25 14:48:57 2007
From: tidbinbilla at cox.net (tidbinbilla)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 13:48:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] California wildfires
Message-ID: <002b01c81748$76b72f60$0bb3c548@HAL9000>

I live in the hills just outside of Ramona.  From my patio I can see from
Mt. Palomar in the north all the way to Julian in the West and points
further south.  We could clearly see the Witch fire from the begining.
(Ironically we had traveled through Santa Isyabel and the Old Julian Highway
earlier on Sunday)  Unlike 2003, the fire swept past most of Ramona.  I
don't believe the Country Estates received much damage this time.  (A fellow
club member living in the Estates has a GT6 and Rolls Royce in his garage)
Despite the orders to evacuate, I stayed behind.  We  packed up the truck
with important items and we set to go if need be.  My TR6 was still loaded
on my car trailer from my trip to Laughlin on Tuesday (At Triumphest, my
metering unit developed a fuel leak and it was unsafe to drive)
Fortunately, I never had to leave.  The fire moved on to Rancho Bernardo
where it was devastating.  The destruction was spotty - one house burns, the
next is OK.  No idea of any Triumph owners being in danger but did see one
person push his restored 35 Ford into the street where it only sustained
damage to one tire while the entire house was lost.

Dave Stauffacher
Ramona, Ca
1970 RHD PI TR6

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 25 17:14:56 2007
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 19:14:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 expert needed in north east ohio
Message-ID: <BAY123-W400B6A557AA24965CBB0D9BA950@phx.gbl>

I received a call tonight from an out of state person who got my name from VTR
who is desperately looking for somebody with TR3 knowledge to look at a TR3 in
North East Ohio for her.  If you can lend a hand email me or give me a call on
my cell tonight @ 440-225-0209 and I can give you her contact info.


Thanks,
Marty Sukey

_________________________________________________________________
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare!
http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailne
ws

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Oct 25 19:03:54 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 21:03:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
Message-ID: <000701c8176c$164708c0$210110ac@bobspc>

I get a weekly Hemmings Motor News email and I like to go to their site
(http://www.hemmings.com/) and peruse the classified ads. eBay has nothing
on the cars offered up here! I usually start with the Healeys and am always
amazed at the prices they command or strive for. Everything from rusted out
hunks of junk for $7000 to a factory prototype (http://tinyurl.com/2mtoo4)
listed for $225,000. And I think that's one ugly front end. After the
Healeys I hit the Triumphs where the prices are much more realistic.
Everything from a $1700 Spitfire to a $49,500 TR6. I'm pleasantly surprised
to see how many Triumphs are priced in the high teens and low twenties. 

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.10/1091 - Release Date: 10/24/2007
2:31 PM

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 25 19:41:41 2007
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 21:41:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 expert needed in north east ohio
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W400B6A557AA24965CBB0D9BA950@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W400B6A557AA24965CBB0D9BA950@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W85043E3DA849B145E7B5CBA960@phx.gbl>

Covered now.

Thanks,
Marty



> From: trmarty at hotmail.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 19:14:56 -0400
> Subject: [TR] TR3 expert needed in north east ohio
>
> I received a call tonight from an out of state person who got my name from
VTR
> who is desperately looking for somebody with TR3 knowledge to look at a TR3
in
> North East Ohio for her.  If you can lend a hand email me or give me a call
on
> my cell tonight @ 440-225-0209 and I can give you her contact info.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Marty Sukey
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare!
>
http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailne
> ws
> _______________________________________________
> trmarty at hotmail.com
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Thu Oct 25 20:19:49 2007
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 22:19:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sevtr Photos, and thanks
Message-ID: <012201c81776$b3068d70$05c86944@ronniej94vilm0>

I would like to thank Ashford Little for loading the photos from the SEVTR
2007 held on Jekyll Island, Ashford has severed as our webmaster and took
all the photos of the event.   You can find the photos on the website at
www.sevtr.org <http://www.sevtr.org/>   Just click on the red statement
about the pictures on the home page. We will have event results posted
shortly.



I would like to thank everyone who attended the event and a special thanks
to my ISOA buddies that made the long drive down. We had several others who
traveled long distances to come play with us. Hats off to Jack McGahey and
to Marty Sukey, for they designed a great autocross course at the airport.
There were many other that lent their skills and talents to make our event a
success. I hope you all come back in 09. I would also like to personally
thank all the clubs that comprise the SEVTR Regional Committee for their
time and effort in hosting their events. Each club exceeded their
requirements to fulfill their commitment to host their chosen event. A great
job done by all.  Again thank you for your dedication



Ronnie Babbitt

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Oct 25 20:52:58 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 22:52:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sevtr Photos, and thanks
References: <012201c81776$b3068d70$05c86944@ronniej94vilm0>
Message-ID: <000e01c8177b$5118dfa0$19207247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

I think the "Thank-Yous" should be to you for the very long hours you worked 
and the dedication you gave to all of whom attended in making sure we all 
had a great time, the VTRSE is a event I lways look forward too, again many 
thanks and that includes  "HER" as well.  "FT"
==========================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ronnie Babbitt" <rbtr3a at cox.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:19 PM
Subject: [TR] Sevtr Photos, and thanks


>I would like to thank Ashford Little for loading the photos from the SEVTR
> 2007 held on Jekyll Island, Ashford has severed as our webmaster and took
> all the photos of the event.   You can find the photos on the website at
> www.sevtr.org <http://www.sevtr.org/>   Just click on the red statement
> about the pictures on the home page. We will have event results posted
> shortly.
>
>
>
> I would like to thank everyone who attended the event and a special thanks
> to my ISOA buddies that made the long drive down. We had several others 
> who
> traveled long distances to come play with us. Hats off to Jack McGahey and
> to Marty Sukey, for they designed a great autocross course at the airport.
> There were many other that lent their skills and talents to make our event 
> a
> success. I hope you all come back in 09. I would also like to personally
> thank all the clubs that comprise the SEVTR Regional Committee for their
> time and effort in hosting their events. Each club exceeded their
> requirements to fulfill their commitment to host their chosen event. A 
> great
> job done by all.  Again thank you for your dedication
>
>
>
> Ronnie Babbitt
> _______________________________________________
> frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Oct 25 21:02:58 2007
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 23:02:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
In-Reply-To: <000701c8176c$164708c0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000701c8176c$164708c0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <8C9E593D8CDBF17-1F4-17B1@mblk-d47.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>

...Healeys...a factory prototype (http://tinyurl.com/2mtoo4)
listed for $225,000. And I think that's one ugly front end....

==AM==

Wow, that IS a thoroughly unattractive car. OK, it's UGLY! But at least 
now we know what Healeys might have looked like if Chrysler's Virgil 
Exner had left that company and moved to England...or what could happen 
if a 3000 and a Humber Super Snipe crashed into each other....

(And some people think the Triumph Sports 6 is ugly; go figure!)

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
http://mail.aol.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 25 21:59:40 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 20:59:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] fuel mixture
In-Reply-To: <102220071658.25738.471CD6C50001915C0000648A22165258569C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20071026035941.VCSQ25064.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>

> Would the paper be a harder draw-through, maybe restricting 
> air, making the car run richer than before?

Unless they are clogged or damp (in which case they should be replaced), the
paper filters will have no effect at all on mixture.

Which is a Good Thing, since if they did, the effect would be entirely at
top end (max air flow) so you couldn't compensate for it by adjusting the
mixture nut.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 25 23:09:11 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 22:09:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 "revitalization" report
In-Reply-To: <d64.146262f9.3443794b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071026050910.SGFO26097.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> Anyone ever find Kai?  I was saving this email in case I 
> wanted to  order the aluminum flywheel, but I'll dump it if 
> he's gone out of  business.

Did you see this ?
http://www.wbclassics.com/2007Oct01.htm

Randall

From stantr6 at comcast.net  Fri Oct 26 05:58:03 2007
From: stantr6 at comcast.net (stantr6 at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 11:58:03 +0000
Subject: [TR] Sevtr Photos, and thanks
Message-ID: <102620071158.19380.4721D64B00098E3600004BB42216557996C09D9B020E9B9C@comcast.net>

Ronnie,
I would like to echo Fred's comment - THANKS to you and all the volunteers.
Another great event !!!
Stan

Stan Kinmonth
1974 TR6

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Ronnie Babbitt" <rbtr3a at cox.net> 

> I would like to thank Ashford Little for loading the photos from the SEVTR 
> 2007 held on Jekyll Island, Ashford has severed as our webmaster and took 
> all the photos of the event. You can find the photos on the website at 
> www.sevtr.org Just click on the red statement 
> about the pictures on the home page. We will have event results posted 
> shortly. 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to thank everyone who attended the event and a special thanks 
> to my ISOA buddies that made the long drive down. We had several others who 
> traveled long distances to come play with us. Hats off to Jack McGahey and 
> to Marty Sukey, for they designed a great autocross course at the airport. 
> There were many other that lent their skills and talents to make our event a 
> success. I hope you all come back in 09. I would also like to personally 
> thank all the clubs that comprise the SEVTR Regional Committee for their 
> time and effort in hosting their events. Each club exceeded their 
> requirements to fulfill their commitment to host their chosen event. A great 
> job done by all. Again thank you for your dedication 
> 
> 
> 
> Ronnie Babbitt 
> _______________________________________________ 
> stantr6 at comcast.net 
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org 
> 
> Triumphs mailing list 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Fri Oct 26 06:39:32 2007
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 08:39:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sevtr Photos, and thanks
In-Reply-To: <012201c81776$b3068d70$05c86944@ronniej94vilm0>
References: <012201c81776$b3068d70$05c86944@ronniej94vilm0>
Message-ID: <188AB326-B18F-48E1-A2A6-2B2CDFA35FD0@mindspring.com>

While it is true that I played a part, a terribly small part at that,  
in this year's SEVTR, the real truth of the matter is that without  
Ronnie Babbitt, this event would not have taken place.  As with most  
events, what goes on behind the scenes in planning such events is  
barely visible to the participants, and through my friendship with  
Ronnie, I have a window into some of countless hours involved in  
putting on the SEVTR.  I applaud any and all who serve roles in the  
SEVTR and similar shows across the country, but at least in this case  
there is one individual who dedicates himself and gives more than his  
all to ensure that the attendees have a wonderful time - that person  
is Ronnie Babbitt.

I hope those of you who attended this year's SEVTR had a good time,  
and I hope you will make plans to attend the semi-annual SEVTR which  
next will be held in the fall of 2009, once again at Jekyll Island,  
GA.  We expect the show to bigger and better than ever.  We're always  
reviewing the things that went went and those that can be improved  
upon so if you have any questions or comments then please contact  
Ronnie or one of the other organizers and we'll be glad to hear what  
you have to say.

Regards,


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary
GTA
'70 TR6




On Oct 25, 2007, at 10:19 PM, Ronnie Babbitt wrote:

> I would like to thank Ashford Little for loading the photos from  
> the SEVTR
> 2007 held on Jekyll Island, Ashford has severed as our webmaster  
> and took
> all the photos of the event.   You can find the photos on the  
> website at
> www.sevtr.org <http://www.sevtr.org/>   Just click on the red  
> statement
> about the pictures on the home page. We will have event results posted
> shortly.
>
>
>
> I would like to thank everyone who attended the event and a special  
> thanks
> to my ISOA buddies that made the long drive down. We had several  
> others who
> traveled long distances to come play with us. Hats off to Jack  
> McGahey and
> to Marty Sukey, for they designed a great autocross course at the  
> airport.
> There were many other that lent their skills and talents to make  
> our event a
> success. I hope you all come back in 09. I would also like to  
> personally
> thank all the clubs that comprise the SEVTR Regional Committee for  
> their
> time and effort in hosting their events. Each club exceeded their
> requirements to fulfill their commitment to host their chosen  
> event. A great
> job done by all.  Again thank you for your dedication
>
>
>
> Ronnie Babbitt
> _______________________________________________
> 70tr6 at mindspring.com

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Fri Oct 26 06:41:40 2007
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 08:41:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
In-Reply-To: <8C9E593D8CDBF17-1F4-17B1@mblk-d47.sysops.aol.com>
References: <000701c8176c$164708c0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<8C9E593D8CDBF17-1F4-17B1@mblk-d47.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <39DE2E2C-3B4F-4541-BF73-F96B499636E3@mindspring.com>

Looks to me like they grafted a '62 Corvette light assembly to the car.

Not my cup of tea, or coffee for that matter.


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6




On Oct 25, 2007, at 11:02 PM, zoboherald at aol.com wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
>
> ...Healeys...a factory prototype (http://tinyurl.com/2mtoo4)
> listed for $225,000. And I think that's one ugly front end....

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri Oct 26 06:53:34 2007
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 08:53:34 EDT
Subject: [TR] Sevtr Photos, and thanks
Message-ID: <cbc.1f5b10c9.34533d4e@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/26/2007 7:40:02 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
70tr6 at mindspring.com writes:

but at  least in this case  
there is one individual who dedicates himself and  gives more than his  
all to ensure that the attendees have a  wonderful time - that person  
is Ronnie  Babbitt.





I'd like to echo those remarks-
success of the VTR SE regional for some years now has been due entirely to  
the effort, coordination, and leadership of Ronnie Babbitt.
 
THANK YOU RONNIE!
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From paradise.71 at juno.com  Fri Oct 26 07:54:58 2007
From: paradise.71 at juno.com (Paradise Music)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 13:54:58 GMT
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
Message-ID: <20071026.065458.15995.0@webmail12.vgs.untd.com>

Beautiful!  If it wasn't for the double headlights.
Bryan

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 26 09:22:47 2007
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 08:22:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
In-Reply-To: <000701c8176c$164708c0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <860880.99240.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Looks like the prototype for the Checker Healey
--- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
wrote:

> I get a weekly Hemmings Motor News email and I like
> to go to their site
> (http://www.hemmings.com/) and peruse the classified
> ads. eBay has nothing
> on the cars offered up here! I usually start with
> the Healeys and am always
> amazed at the prices they command or strive for.
> Everything from rusted out
> hunks of junk for $7000 to a factory prototype
> (http://tinyurl.com/2mtoo4)
> listed for $225,000. And I think that's one ugly
> front end. After the
> Healeys I hit the Triumphs where the prices are much
> more realistic.
> Everything from a $1700 Spitfire to a $49,500 TR6.
> I'm pleasantly surprised
> to see how many Triumphs are priced in the high
> teens and low twenties. 
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
> 
> 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG. 
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.10/1091 -
> Release Date: 10/24/2007
> 2:31 PM
> > _______________________________________________
> kajohns64 at yahoo.com
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Oct 26 10:19:24 2007
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 11:19:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
References: <860880.99240.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c817eb$fc471750$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

The DeDion rear suspension is interesting, but it is definitely not 
independent, as the listing claims it to be.  The dual headlamp set-up is 
hideous!

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kurt Johnson" <kajohns64 at yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey


> Looks like the prototype for the Checker Healey

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Oct 26 10:33:28 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 12:33:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
Message-ID: <20071026123328.ALJ89163@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

MM wrote:
> The DeDion rear suspension is interesting

I always wondered.  Just how exactly does one pronounce DeDion anyway?
--
Jim Muller

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Oct 26 11:21:33 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 10:21:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
References: <20071026123328.ALJ89163@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <002501c817f4$a8528ae0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Grey Poupon! :)


Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey


> MM wrote:
> > The DeDion rear suspension is interesting
> 
> I always wondered.  Just how exactly does one pronounce DeDion anyway?
> --
> Jim Muller
> _______________________________________________
> spitlist at cox.net
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Oct 26 11:41:00 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 18:41:00 +0100
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
References: <860880.99240.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<000f01c817eb$fc471750$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
Message-ID: <02be01c817f7$60324f90$0201a8c0@Bevan>

> The DeDion rear suspension is interesting, but it is definitely not
> independent, as the listing claims it to be.  The dual headlamp set-up is
> hideous!

Let us not be too harsh on the old lady. She manifests the confusion that 
was sadly so prevalent within British Leyland either just before or just 
after the closure of the BL Competitions Dept at Abingdon. As far as that 
place was concerned, it turned out some impressive 'factory' competition 
cars before closure by Donald Stokes, BL's CEO. From the few pics I've 
looked at, she has the Austin 3 litre saloon headlamp assembly, 
Austin/Morris 1100/1300 saloon front sidelight/indicator pods, an early 
Range Rover oil pressure gauge, an MGA competition steering wheel and 
Triumph 2.5PI speedo and rev-counter.
Personally, I love Big Healeys and always have, though I must admit that 
225,000 of the Big Ones are rather a lot to handover to acquire her 
ownership. All that said, let's be happy she's still around and not be so 
critical of whether she looks like we think she ought to look - and doesn't.
Her *successor* from HMC Sports Cars (www.hmcsportscars.com) was just as 
gorgeous but I'm not sure whether they are still made. I've seen three of 
them at different times and if I could afford to lay out that kind of money 
for my own enjoyment, I'd have been very sorely tempted.

Jonmac 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Oct 26 11:41:44 2007
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 13:41:44 EDT
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
Message-ID: <cc5.2064eb34.345380d8@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/26/2007 11:33:45 AM Central Daylight Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> I always wondered.  Just how exactly does one pronounce DeDion anyway?
> 
The same way Celine would if she stuttered.

Dave   

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Oct 26 11:53:02 2007
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 12:53:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
References: <20071026123328.ALJ89163@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <001d01c817f9$0e3d40d0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

> I always wondered.  Just how exactly does one pronounce DeDion anyway?
> --
> Jim Muller
> _______________________________________________


Duh-dee-on

Mike

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Oct 26 12:01:46 2007
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 13:01:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
References: <860880.99240.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<000f01c817eb$fc471750$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
	<02be01c817f7$60324f90$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <002601c817fa$467dede0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

I love the big Healeys too, but there was nothing wrong with the headlamp 
set-up, so I am not sure why they chose to go with the duals.  Back then, 
dual headlamps were "modern" so I suppose it was thought of as a way to 
freshen up an old design.

One dual headlamp car from the early sixties that did work, however, from a 
design standpoint, was the Ford Consul Classic and Consul Capri, the latter 
being the better looking of the two.  The Classic had the same reverse-slope 
rear window as the Anglia (and the Merc Monterrey, here in the States), but 
the Capri was a two-door coupe with a nicely shaped greenhouse.

This car was totally different from the later Ford Capri, which appeared in 
the mid-sixties, before anybody asks!

Mike

.
> Personally, I love Big Healeys and always have, though I must admit that 
> 225,000 of the Big Ones are rather a lot to handover to acquire her 
> ownership. All that said, let's be happy she's still around and not be so 
> critical of whether she looks like we think she ought to look - and 
> doesn't.
> Her *successor* from HMC Sports Cars (www.hmcsportscars.com) was just as 
> gorgeous but I'm not sure whether they are still made. I've seen three of 
> them at different times and if I could afford to lay out that kind of 
> money for my own enjoyment, I'd have been very sorely tempted.
>
> Jonmac

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Fri Oct 26 12:53:55 2007
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 14:53:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
References: <860880.99240.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002801c81801$9068a470$2929c40a@mde.state.md.us>

That was my exact thought.  .


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kurt Johnson" <kajohns64 at yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey


> Looks like the prototype for the Checker Healey

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Oct 26 14:54:55 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 16:54:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
In-Reply-To: <02be01c817f7$60324f90$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <860880.99240.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000f01c817eb$fc471750$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
	<02be01c817f7$60324f90$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <001701c81812$78b25450$210110ac@bobspc>

Jon,
For some reason that HMC Sports Car link just redirects me to another site
about all electric cars. I was able to get to it by going to
http://www.hmcsportscars.com/reviews.htm  A modern Healey, almost like the
Eagle Jags. Very cool.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 1:41 PM
To: Michael Marr; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey

> The DeDion rear suspension is interesting, but it is definitely not 
> independent, as the listing claims it to be.  The dual headlamp set-up 
> is hideous!

Let us not be too harsh on the old lady. She manifests the confusion that
was sadly so prevalent within British Leyland either just before or just
after the closure of the BL Competitions Dept at Abingdon. As far as that
place was concerned, it turned out some impressive 'factory' competition
cars before closure by Donald Stokes, BL's CEO. From the few pics I've
looked at, she has the Austin 3 litre saloon headlamp assembly,
Austin/Morris 1100/1300 saloon front sidelight/indicator pods, an early
Range Rover oil pressure gauge, an MGA competition steering wheel and
Triumph 2.5PI speedo and rev-counter.
Personally, I love Big Healeys and always have, though I must admit that
225,000 of the Big Ones are rather a lot to handover to acquire her
ownership. All that said, let's be happy she's still around and not be so
critical of whether she looks like we think she ought to look - and doesn't.
Her *successor* from HMC Sports Cars (www.hmcsportscars.com) was just as
gorgeous but I'm not sure whether they are still made. I've seen three of
them at different times and if I could afford to lay out that kind of money
for my own enjoyment, I'd have been very sorely tempted.

Jonmac
_______________________________________________
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.11/1093 - Release Date: 10/25/2007
5:38 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.11/1093 - Release Date: 10/25/2007
5:38 PM

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Oct 26 15:22:40 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 22:22:40 +0100
Subject: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
References: <860880.99240.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000f01c817eb$fc471750$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
	<02be01c817f7$60324f90$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<001701c81812$78b25450$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <02da01c81816$578302d0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

> For some reason that HMC Sports Car link just redirects me to another site
> about all electric cars. I was able to get to it by going to
> http://www.hmcsportscars.com/reviews.htm  A modern Healey, almost like the
> Eagle Jags. Very cool.

Bob

All Electric Garages is the name of the current/former sole selling agent in 
the UK. I don't think they've ever had anything to do with electric 
propulsion - which obviously explains why they called themselves All 
Electric :::))) Mind you, Birmingham and its suburbs do come up with some 
strange ideas........

Jonmac

>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of John Macartney
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 1:41 PM
> To: Michael Marr; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Hemmings & $225K Healey
>
>> The DeDion rear suspension is interesting, but it is definitely not
>> independent, as the listing claims it to be.  The dual headlamp set-up
>> is hideous!
>
> Let us not be too harsh on the old lady. She manifests the confusion that
> was sadly so prevalent within British Leyland either just before or just
> after the closure of the BL Competitions Dept at Abingdon. As far as that
> place was concerned, it turned out some impressive 'factory' competition
> cars before closure by Donald Stokes, BL's CEO. From the few pics I've
> looked at, she has the Austin 3 litre saloon headlamp assembly,
> Austin/Morris 1100/1300 saloon front sidelight/indicator pods, an early
> Range Rover oil pressure gauge, an MGA competition steering wheel and
> Triumph 2.5PI speedo and rev-counter.
> Personally, I love Big Healeys and always have, though I must admit that
> 225,000 of the Big Ones are rather a lot to handover to acquire her
> ownership. All that said, let's be happy she's still around and not be so
> critical of whether she looks like we think she ought to look - and 
> doesn't.
> Her *successor* from HMC Sports Cars (www.hmcsportscars.com) was just as
> gorgeous but I'm not sure whether they are still made. I've seen three of
> them at different times and if I could afford to lay out that kind of 
> money
> for my own enjoyment, I'd have been very sorely tempted.
>
> Jonmac
> _______________________________________________
> 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.11/1093 - Release Date: 
> 10/25/2007
> 5:38 PM
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.11/1093 - Release Date: 
> 10/25/2007
> 5:38 PM

From Andy.dixon at comcast.net  Fri Oct 26 17:15:24 2007
From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 19:15:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A eater valve question
Message-ID: <002601c81826$16fafaf0$6700a8c0@andy>

Not only am I curious, I am cheap.

I disassembled the heater valve today and now I have a question. Inside the
valve is, for want of a better description, a free-floating brass button
that is obviously pushed down by the rod connected to the metal knob on top
when closed, and appears to be pushed up by water pressure when open. Should
this be firmly connected to the rod or is it supposed to be free floating?

TIA

Andy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.11/1094 - Release Date: 10/26/2007
8:50 AM

From m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca  Fri Oct 26 17:22:28 2007
From: m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca (Mo and Dave MacKay)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 19:22:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
Message-ID: <BAYC1-PASMTP14B11B77466BEF597A6A66A4960@CEZ.ICE>

My story is similar to Steve's even though our cars are 475 units apart. My
TR3A, 68639L, was built on February 18, 1960 and dispatched to "Cal Sales
Inc." in Portland aboard the good ship "Jean LD". I wonder if they might
have been on the same ship for the trip to the US west coast.

 

My car also must have languished on the lot for quite a while. Like Steve's,
mine is registered as a 1962 car.

 

I haven't found an "STC 62" sign on mine though.

 

Regards,

 

Dave MacKay 

TR3A s/n 68639L (now also "O")

near Toronto, Canada

 

"Steve Ball" banjonut at verizon.net wrote:

>The Triumph folks had a fix for that.  They just changed the declared model
year of the car to match the year in which it >was first sold, so it was
always a "new" car no matter how old it was.  My TR3A, TS68164, was built in
February 1960, but >was registered in California as a '62 because that's
when it was first sold, after apparently sitting around the docks in >L.A.
for 2 years.

>The dealer (or some other factory rep) simply added a little plate to the
firewall, officially declaring the model year >of the car.  Mine suddenly
became a 1962 TR3A even though it was nearly 2 years old...what a miracle!

>The crummy little sign (and I do mean crummy)  reads: "STC 62", presumably
for Standard Triumph Corp, 1962.  The >California registration shows the VIN
number

>as: STC62TS68164L.  The little plate was screwed onto the firewall, so if
it didn't sell in '62 they could easily replace >it with "STC 63" and so
forth.  I think they got away with it because the cars all looked pretty
much the same, and the >buying public was clueless.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Oct 26 18:16:36 2007
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 20:16:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] blaster info
Message-ID: <200710262016.37313.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

For those of you who are thinking of getting a media blaster cabinet but are 
not sure what model to get read on.

About 2 years ago I decided to get a blaster cabinet but had no idea of what 
to get.

Sooooo I went to HF and they had a table top model for only about 70$ ON SALE! 
Seemed ok so I got it and hooked it up to my compressor.

Well the gun supplied didnt work very good. Ok I went and got a new gun for 
about 50$ from Eastwood.

THe cabinet didnt have a light so I made one up. about another 10$.

I hooked my garage exhaust fan to the output in the cabinet to keep the 
working area clean etc. Cost about 20 $.

Well the new gun did help but because the media area was so small, I kept 
having to shake the whole mess etc. because it would not run down to the pick 
up. ALso media leaked every where . When I was blasting, it would come out 
every crevice. I had to use breathing gear because it even came out of the 
rubber seal that sealed the viewing window!

Now fast forward to yesterday. My new Eastwood cabinet arrived and what an 
upgrade. Cabinet has a built in light and is almost leak proof. Solid plastic 
with no seams etc.

I use glass beads and it works just fine, and also the working area is about 
2.5 times as large. 

Now the eastwood blaster is about 300 + delivery but it is well worth the 
extra $.

For a test I took a piece of native silver ore I collected way back when and 
gave it about a 1 minute blast.  Wow did it come out nice! Even cleaned the 
host rock. Now this stuff is very old, mined during the turn of the century 
(that is about 1910 or so). So the native silver was almost black and the 
host rock was stained etc. from iron, cobalt, and other sulfides.

Ever since I collected this stuff I tried everything to clean it but on a whim 
tried the blaster and what a job.

Now this winter I will start to clean up alot of those old car parts that I 
have collected over the years and maybe sell some on ebay.

Gives me something to do now that the 4 restoration is complete.

If it is one thing I have learned over the years is that in order to do a good 
job one needs good quality tools and the right tool for the job. Sometimes 
going to HF for a cheap tool turns out to be a waste of time and $.

Here is a link to the cabinet: 
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=5180&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=1310&iSubCat=1312&iProductID=5180

Bob

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Oct 26 17:38:07 2007
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 18:38:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A eater valve question
References: <002601c81826$16fafaf0$6700a8c0@andy>
Message-ID: <003001c81829$43496b70$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

Oi, mate, juss 'cos yer gott a English car, it don't mean yer 'ave ter drop 
yer aitches, do it?

Sorry, couldn't resist that.  I think the "button" has come adrift from the 
valve stem - it should be attached.  I am assuming that it was secured with 
a brass screw, but I cannot confimr that because I have never taken that 
valve apart.  My advice would be to replace the valve.  The screw (or 
whatever was securing it) is probably lodged in the 'eater core.

I am an ex-pat living in the US and getting ready to go home next week for 
10 days.  Now you have given me the chance to brush up on my cockney!

Mike




> Not only am I curious, I am cheap.
>
> I disassembled the heater valve today and now I have a question. Inside 
> the
> valve is, for want of a better description, a free-floating brass button
> that is obviously pushed down by the rod connected to the metal knob on 
> top
> when closed, and appears to be pushed up by water pressure when open. 
> Should
> this be firmly connected to the rod or is it supposed to be free floating?

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Oct 26 18:01:23 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 20:01:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A eater valve question
Message-ID: <c70.1d601742.3453d9d3@aol.com>

It's a faucet and that is the faucet washer.  It is supposed to be  attached 
to the stem.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct 26 18:05:13 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 17:05:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] blaster info
In-Reply-To: <200710262016.37313.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <20071027000512.PIRO10548.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> If it is one thing I have learned over the years is that in 
> order to do a good job one needs good quality tools and the 
> right tool for the job. Sometimes going to HF for a cheap 
> tool turns out to be a waste of time and $.

Not really disagreeing with you, Bob, but I feel I have to reply that I'm
pretty happy with my $80 HF el-cheapo blast cabinet.  I did have to add a
light, but I found a used under-cabinet fluorescent lying around that I
think I paid $8 for; plus a clamp-type grommet that I salvaged from the
trash some years ago.  

The cabinet does leak a bit but most of that is from my forgetting to clean
around the door before opening it.  The supplied gun & feed work well enough
for me (once I figured out that I was trying to be too stingy with media).
And I don't see any way it could leak around the window (probably because
it's a different model than you have)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45411

I don't wear a mask, because there doesn't seem to be any dust in my face or
eyes.  Oh yeah, I did install a fancy filter in the air outlet ... one of
those stainless steel scrub balls from the kitchen sink (used) <G>

No doubt the Eastwood unit is better, and I certainly wouldn't mind having
more working space inside ... of course I also wouldn't mind having a larger
garage/shop to put it and all the other toys in as well.  But for now, I'm
happy with paying 1/4 the price for 1/2 the working platform.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct 26 18:07:36 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 17:07:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <BAYC1-PASMTP14B11B77466BEF597A6A66A4960@CEZ.ICE>
Message-ID: <20071027000736.JZUU29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> I haven't found an "STC 62" sign on mine though.

Evidence would seem to indicate that those were only put on cars that came
through California and sold in the SW US.  That's also very close to the
time they started being put on, so perhaps yours squeaked under the
deadline.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct 26 18:09:48 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 17:09:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A eater valve question
In-Reply-To: <002601c81826$16fafaf0$6700a8c0@andy>
Message-ID: <20071027000948.KEHW29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> I disassembled the heater valve today and now I have a
> question. Inside the valve is, for want of a better
> description, a free-floating brass button that is obviously
> pushed down by the rod connected to the metal knob on top
> when closed, and appears to be pushed up by water pressure
> when open. Should this be firmly connected to the rod or is
> it supposed to be free floating?

As I recall, it was originally joined to the rod, but free to turn
independently.  Since it's only conical to match the seat on one side, seems
to me it would be apt to turn sideways and not seal very well if it wasn't
attached.

Randall

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Oct 26 18:36:02 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 00:36:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fun Moment
Message-ID: <102720070036.18422.472287F2000B0318000047F622165258069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Driving the TR3A home from work this evening about 7:30, long past blue dusk, enjoying the way the car pulls hills in fourth at 2700 rpm barely noticing they're there, on black forested Route 3A with ten minutes between buildings, rumbling along at 70 miles per hour, I spotted a deer standing in my side of the road.  Pressed hard on the brakes, and thanked the cosmos that Triumphs (were the first?) have disk brakes.  Also blessed the moment I decided to put an alternator conversion in, so I had the illumination to spot the deer in time to stop.
I have nothing against wearing deerskin, but I'd prefer a certain amount of processing to occur beforehand...processing I have nothing to do with.
The deer had less traction, skidded its hooves as it accelerated into the woods.
Cosmos chuckling next, because half a heart beat away, rounding the first bend, saw the Statie parked off the road gunning oncoming traffic.  
Innocent TR smile into the darkness.  Happy Friday.
Terry Smith
New Hampshire

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Oct 26 18:47:21 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 20:47:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fun Moment
In-Reply-To: <102720070036.18422.472287F2000B0318000047F622165258069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <47225259.21319.1B735CF@localhost>

On 27 Oct 2007 at 0:36, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

> Innocent TR smile into the darkness.  Happy Friday.

You are a fortunate fellow, Terry.  I give you joy of your escape!  
May we all be so lucky twice in the same day.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



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From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Oct 26 19:02:18 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 21:02:18 EDT
Subject: [TR] Fun Moment
Message-ID: <cbc.1f6cf1de.3453e81a@aol.com>

Thank the deer.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From auprichard at comcast.net  Fri Oct 26 20:20:24 2007
From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 02:20:24 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fun Moment
Message-ID: <102720070220.4031.4722A068000DB67A00000FBF22007481840B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net>

TR3s make great recreation
With power and acceleration
But despite their prowess 
(And their drivers' BS)
They're not immune to a speeding citation

Andrew
'62 TR3B
'59 TR3A
and otherwise law-abiding collector of tickets..............

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: terryrs at comcast.net 

> Driving the TR3A home from work this evening about 7:30, long past blue dusk, 
> enjoying the way the car pulls hills in fourth at 2700 rpm barely noticing 
> they're there, on black forested Route 3A with ten minutes between buildings, 
> rumbling along at 70 miles per hour, I spotted a deer standing in my side of the 
> road. Pressed hard on the brakes, and thanked the cosmos that Triumphs (were 
> the first?) have disk brakes. Also blessed the moment I decided to put an 
> alternator conversion in, so I had the illumination to spot the deer in time to 
> stop. 
> I have nothing against wearing deerskin, but I'd prefer a certain amount of 
> processing to occur beforehand...processing I have nothing to do with. 
> The deer had less traction, skidded its hooves as it accelerated into the woods. 
> Cosmos chuckling next, because half a heart beat away, rounding the first bend, 
> saw the Statie parked off the road gunning oncoming traffic. 
> Innocent TR smile into the darkness. Happy Friday. 
> Terry Smith 
> New Hampshire 
> _______________________________________________ 
> auprichard at comcast.net 
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org 
> 
> Triumphs mailing list 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Oct 26 22:38:31 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 22:38:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3A eater valve question
In-Reply-To: <c70.1d601742.3453d9d3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071027043818.41522187A20@autox.team.net>

BTW, this item is on sale at TRF this weekend... $19.89.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
"I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
DLylis at aol.com
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 6:01 PM
To: Andy.dixon at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A eater valve question

It's a faucet and that is the faucet washer.  It is supposed to be  attached
to the stem.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1095 - Release Date: 10/26/2007
7:54 PM
 

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7:54 PM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct 26 22:07:36 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 21:07:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation
Message-ID: <20071027040737.CAPX29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

Moss seems to offer the worm itself, but not the steering shaft that it's
mounted on.  Has anyone tried replacing their worm ?

I see that TRF offers "rebuilt" assemblies for less than the worm from Moss;
but I have a good worm on a bad shaft plus a bad worm on a good shaft ...

Any comments about the procedure or results would be appreciated.

Randall

From Andy.dixon at comcast.net  Sat Oct 27 07:11:39 2007
From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 09:11:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 eater valve question - conclusion
Message-ID: <004601c8189a$e9aabc50$6700a8c0@andy>

Many thank to those of you that responded.
Fred Thomas, Mike Marr ( to be truly colloquial, I probably should have
dropped the t as well  eaer valve), Dave Lylis, who actually removed his
from the engine to get a better perspective for me, and Bill Beech, who let
me know they are on sale at TRF. I have one on order, along with the pipe
which is also on sale.
It turns out that the washer is dished and the stem sort of looks like a
nail head on the end. The head fits in the dish, and a thin lip is then
peened behind the head to hold the washer in place but still allow it to
rotate. I expect the washer would either wear down quickly, or snap off when
you tightened it down if it weren't allowed to rotate.
Somewhere along the line, someone had messed up the threads for the outlet
pipe and had soldered one in. Either the heat loosened the washer, or the
big blob of solder on the inside wall of the valve did. I have reattached
the washer by putting the washer/stem assembly in a vice, horizontally, and
peening the rim a bit with a punch.
I know; I have one on order, so why bother? I guess it was just the
challenge.
Thanks again.
Andy

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8:50 AM

From jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca  Sat Oct 27 07:19:13 2007
From: jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca (Jeff Fenwick)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 09:19:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
References: <20071027000736.JZUU29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <005501c8189b$f81f7db0$6601a8c0@jeffgjd000xgs4>

Speaking of car registration anomalies, a friend of mine has a *4 DR* 
Spitfire.
The previous owner told him he had tried a couple of times to get it fixed
without success. I guess they both breathed a sigh of relief as the
ownership transfer went through ;-)
Jeff

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat Oct 27 07:19:18 2007
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 09:19:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 eater valve question - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <004601c8189a$e9aabc50$6700a8c0@andy>
References: <004601c8189a$e9aabc50$6700a8c0@andy>
Message-ID: <20071027131919.XKVK23773.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 09:11 AM 10/27/2007, Andy wrote:
>I know; I have one on order, so why bother? I guess it was just the
>challenge.

Why own a Triumph at all, if not for the challenge?

Jeff Scarbrough
Multiply Challenged , Ga.



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From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Sat Oct 27 07:21:47 2007
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 09:21:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Front Apron Installation and Steering TR3
Message-ID: <000001c8189c$53c3e110$284d3b47@Scott>

I am at the point to install the front apron of my TR3A restoration but
wanted to check with those who have BTDT. It has the split column and the
lower end is installed. Do I/should I install the rest of the steering,
especially the stator tube and wiring before I put the apron on or is it not
a problem to do this with the apron on, allowing me to tackle this
installment at a later time? My main concern is the front end of the box and
ease to work with this while the apron is one. TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 08:36:35 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 07:36:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Front Apron Installation and Steering TR3
In-Reply-To: <000001c8189c$53c3e110$284d3b47@Scott>
Message-ID: <20071027143635.CRTN26097.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> Do 
> I/should I install the rest of the steering, especially the 
> stator tube and wiring before I put the apron on

I went all through my steering with the apron still in place ... might be a
little easier to deal with aligning the columns (very important) or
installing the stator tube & wires with the apron off, but I don't think it
would be a lot easier.

Randall

From vinttr4 at geneseo.net  Sat Oct 27 10:08:59 2007
From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 11:08:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] seals
Message-ID: <200710271607.l9RG752U503975@ns3.geneseo.net>

Contemplating replacing the diff seal and front crank seal on my 71 
TR6. Those seem to be the worst offenders.  BUT -- I overhhauled the 
engine completely 20,000 miles ago. All the seal surfaces on the iron 
parts were okay. So my question is --

Why do our seals last such a short time?

And maybe the followup question - does anybody have brands and 
numbers for seals from the major manufacturers like CR for these two 
applications?

uncle jack 



------------------------------------------------
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From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sat Oct 27 10:30:42 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 17:30:42 +0100
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
References: <20071027000736.JZUU29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <031801c818b6$b82fbd30$0201a8c0@Bevan>

I've been reading the few recent posts about vehicle dating and the queries 
arising from why a car was built in 1743 and not shipped until 1805.

There's a very good reason for why and how this happened, although it 
essentially boils down to 'paperwork.' - the timing of its creation, arrival 
and processing. I'd be happy to outline the whys and wherefores (if anyone 
is interested?) but the subject is potentially a little dusty and fusty. 
Also it will require fairly judicious chopping up into bits to send to the 
list if I am to avoid creating a too large post - which will certainly be 
the case with one hit.

Jonmac 

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Sat Oct 27 10:43:06 2007
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 17:43:06 +0100
Subject: [TR] Take a bow list and Q
Message-ID: <FD2B51B9-6408-438C-A3CC-FA9CEC282A9D@tcd.ie>

Well at 4.30 Dublin time after what is likely been 3 decades my TR2  
sprung into life, without a doubt due in no small part to the years  
of advice received on the list, if I might indulge ye a little  
further, a few points; started on the button after setting ignition  
timing the old fashioned way, it did on the initial two start ups,  
which ran for no more than 10 seconds emit quite a bit of smoke from  
the oil cap, and continued to do so for a minute after running, on  
the third start this seems to have stopped, any ideas?. I do have  
problems getting fuel from the tank to the carbs, I filled the bowl  
on the pump to no avail and ended up removing the overflow bolts on  
the float chambers and filling them. But even running the pump does  
not appear to be pulling fuel through, as the engine died when the  
fuel in the carb bowls ran out, any tricks here?. Very excited  
though, sounds smooth and rattle free, woopee
John
1954 TR2

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Oct 27 10:51:08 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 09:51:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <031801c818b6$b82fbd30$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <20071027000736.JZUU29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>
	<031801c818b6$b82fbd30$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <001201c818b9$927819e0$2202a8c0@newcomputer>

Were cars being built in 1743?

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Macartney
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 9:31 AM
To: 'Mailing List Triumph (Triumph Mailing List)'
Subject: Re: [TR] build date of TR3A

I've been reading the few recent posts about vehicle dating and the queries 
arising from why a car was built in 1743 and not shipped until 1805.

There's a very good reason for why and how this happened, although it 
essentially boils down to 'paperwork.' - the timing of its creation, arrival

and processing. I'd be happy to outline the whys and wherefores (if anyone 
is interested?) but the subject is potentially a little dusty and fusty. 
Also it will require fairly judicious chopping up into bits to send to the 
list if I am to avoid creating a too large post - which will certainly be 
the case with one hit.

Jonmac 
_______________________________________________
spitlist at cox.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Oct 27 11:54:56 2007
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 13:54:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Take a bow list and Q
In-Reply-To: <FD2B51B9-6408-438C-A3CC-FA9CEC282A9D@tcd.ie>
References: <FD2B51B9-6408-438C-A3CC-FA9CEC282A9D@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <200710271354.56881.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 27 October 2007 12:43 pm, John Gillis wrote:
> Well at 4.30 Dublin time after what is likely been 3 decades my TR2
> sprung into life, without a doubt due in no small part to the years
> of advice received on the list, if I might indulge ye a little
> further, a few points; started on the button after setting ignition
> timing the old fashioned way, it did on the initial two start ups,
> which ran for no more than 10 seconds emit quite a bit of smoke from
> the oil cap, and continued to do so for a minute after running, on
> the third start this seems to have stopped, any ideas?. I do have
> problems getting fuel from the tank to the carbs, I filled the bowl
> on the pump to no avail and ended up removing the overflow bolts on
> the float chambers and filling them. But even running the pump does
> not appear to be pulling fuel through, as the engine died when the
> fuel in the carb bowls ran out, any tricks here?. Very excited
> though, sounds smooth and rattle free, woopee
> John
> 1954 TR2


John,

Sounds like the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump is blocked.

Try removing the line from the fuel pump input and maybe some compressed air 
through the line will help.

But even if it does, there may be rust, etc in the tank/line. Try draining the 
tank and see what flows out!

If the line is clear the fuel pump may be the problem, either the pump or 
possibly the cam follower.

As far as the smoke from the oil cap, this should not happen. Sometimes there 
is a linger after a long run but it would only be oil/water vapor from the 
sump.

Sounds like there is combustion gases getting into the sump and therefore out 
the oil cap. Could be a burnt valve and gas passing through the valve guide.

You could also check the breather pipe just under the fuel pump to insure it 
is clean and clear. Easy to remove and check.

 
Bob

From jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca  Sat Oct 27 11:06:38 2007
From: jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca (Jeff Fenwick)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 13:06:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
References: <20071027000736.JZUU29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>
	<031801c818b6$b82fbd30$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <010701c818bb$bd93cc30$6601a8c0@jeffgjd000xgs4>

John,
Your recollections and insight into how things were done "in the day"
and the way you tell the stories is always a good read. So, yes please!
Jeff

Jonmac wrote: 
(if anyone 
> is interested?) but the subject is potentially a little dusty and fusty. 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 11:07:19 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 10:07:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Take a bow list and Q
In-Reply-To: <FD2B51B9-6408-438C-A3CC-FA9CEC282A9D@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <20071027170718.RZAF17119.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> Well at 4.30 Dublin time after what is likely been 3 decades 
> my TR2 sprung into life

Congratulations !

> on the 
> third start this seems to have stopped, any ideas?

Not really, but if it stopped then it's likely nothing to worry about.

> But 
> even running the pump does not appear to be pulling fuel 
> through, as the engine died when the fuel in the carb bowls 
> ran out, any tricks here?

No real tricks, just the usual investigative work.  Are you sure the shutoff
valve is open ?  Sediment bowl and gasket installed on the pump and
tightened up ?  Fresh fuel in the tank ?

Being a risk taker, I'd probably start by disconnecting the soft inlet line
between the valve & pump and seeing if I could suck gas through from the
tank.  If you're a more cautious sort, you could use a Mityvac or similar to
do the same test. (HF has a nice unit that is sometimes on sale for $20
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92474 )

If you can pull fuel from the tank (through the valve), then my next step
would be to disconnect the line at the carb inlets and see if the pump will
push fuel through to there.  If not, check again at the pump outlet.  Then
if all indications point at the pump, pull it off and bench test/repair/etc.

On my "barn find" TR3 project, there proved to be multiple blockages.  DPO
had installed some unusual kind of valve in place of the original, and it's
innards apparently dissolved into silly putty.  Which in turn gummed up the
pump valves, and float valves.  Haven't been into the pump yet to see if
it's salvageable, but the other blockages succumbed to carb cleaner after
some fiddling, and the temporary electric pump was able to supply the carbs
for a few seconds of operation.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Oct 27 11:29:15 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 13:29:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <031801c818b6$b82fbd30$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <47233D2B.21043.54C7866@localhost>

On 27 Oct 2007 at 17:30, John Macartney wrote:

> I've been reading the few recent posts about vehicle dating and the queries 
> arising from why a car was built in 1743 and not shipped until 1805.

Perhaps that little tussle with Boney required all vehicles be 
pressed into service, even those what had been sitting on the lot for 
a while.  Otherwise it might still have been sitting there in 1843.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



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From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu  Sat Oct 27 11:42:22 2007
From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 10:42:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Seals
In-Reply-To: <mailman.26833.1193501250.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.26833.1193501250.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4723787E.9000701@mrl.ucsb.edu>

Jack,

My front crank seal 'weeps' oil, and I too rebuilt my engine less than 
20k miles ago.

As I recall, the actual sealing surface was LEATHER.  I remember when I 
put it in that I thought this was taking originality a bit far, and 
wished there was a modern lip seal in hand.  It reminded me of the 
packing boxes on boats where the shaft passes through the hull and they 
weep by design.

This was a 4-pot TR 4 motor and not a new-fangled 6-pot motor, so not 
sure if they stopped using leather seals by that time.

If someone ever found a cross-reference for a 'modern' ( designed in the 
second half of the last century ) spring lip seal, I'd order the part 
and have it on hand for when I next remove my timing gear cover.

-jeffrey


-jeffrey

From trhouse at greenapple.com  Sat Oct 27 11:52:13 2007
From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 13:52:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation (Now young and dumb)
Message-ID: <C348F30D.1BBE%trhouse@greenapple.com>

> Any comments about the procedure or results would be appreciated.
> 
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
> trhouse at greenapple.com

Never tried replacing the worm. However will share some early experiences
with steering gears.
My first car was bought from a salvage yard. It had been hit in the front
left.... hard. At 17 years old armed with pipe wrench, vice grips, hammer,
and a few wrenches it came to life again. 50 bucks straightened the frame .
However, still bailing wired together, within a month I got really secure
with running through the gears .... Hard and fast....  one day a quick left
turn to the bowling alley offered up a three block run to a slollom into the
parking lot and up to the parking space in front of the place. Exhillarated
from the power rush I attempted to  Lemans exit the car (door closed) still
clutching the steering wheel. Imagine the feeling in your pants when the
steering wheel turned infinitely with out any resistance. It was a bit
warmer than the bonnet bailing wire comming loose the week before, allowing
the Bonnet to trash the new hinges and  windshield and fly over the car
behind me.
The shaft had fatigue broke at the worm. I learned early to pay attention to
critical alignment when rebuilding steering boxes. The guy who towed me back
with rope behind his Rambler  still tells the story of me walking 4 miles
beside the TR, with the ebrake on, kicking the tires to steer it back to the
house. 

A couple of years later I lent a RHD car I was driving to a friend who ran
it into a Mustang and totaled it. In an overnight attempt to take two cars
and make one to have transportation, I swapped out the bent steering shaft
with the shaft from the LHD. What a hoot..... when I backed out of the
garage and experienced the Keystone Cops modification. When you steered
right the car went left. Made for an interesting day at the wheel....

I always kept these early learning experiences in mind when I worked on
steering Boxes

FYI

tom         

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 12:24:59 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 11:24:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Seals
In-Reply-To: <4723787E.9000701@mrl.ucsb.edu>
Message-ID: <20071027182459.LDAE10548.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> If someone ever found a cross-reference for a 'modern' ( 
> designed in the second half of the last century ) spring lip 
> seal, I'd order the part and have it on hand for when I next 
> remove my timing gear cover.

I don't have the number, but I just walked into Kragen and ordered one for
my TR3A.  Took them 2 days to get it, but it was a modern 'rubber' lip seal.
Can't tell you when that was, but it was at least before 2000 and I'm sure
more than 20,000 miles ago.  The spare I bought is still in my parts bin
somewhere (but I'm too lazy/busy to go dig it out today).

But as I've mentioned before, the condition of the sealing surface on the
hub is critical.  Although conventional wisdom is that anything you can't
feel with a fingernail is probably OK; I've come to the conclusion that
anything I cannot polish out completely is NOT acceptable.  IOW, if I can't
polish away that mark, it's deep enough to cause premature wear of the seal.
Since all of my front hubs (and I looked at several) were in that condition,
I used a Speedi-Sleeve.  Also important is being certain the lip has plenty
of assembly lube, which, since the hub will wipe off the lube as you push it
into place, means plenty of lube on the hub as well.

Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Oct 27 12:56:53 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 14:56:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph Tee Shirts
Message-ID: <000001c818cb$25955330$210110ac@bobspc>

Check out these TR6 Tee Shirts on eBay http://tinyurl.com/36pqpk  Other
Triumph & LBC shirts are here http://tinyurl.com/3cu7ot

NFI....but I just bought a yellow one :-)

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
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7:54 PM

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 13:11:06 2007
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 15:11:06 EDT
Subject: [TR] Seals
Message-ID: <c5e.21426306.3454e74a@aol.com>

The timing cover seal I bought from TRF couple years back is orange plastic..
The leather one had an outer and inner sealing element, one to keep dirt from
going in, the other to keep oil from going out. note: Hardy Prentice (a
long-term TR3 racer) says the leather is kinder to the contact surface.
Moisture had slightly pitted my hub seal area so I slipped on a stainless
'readi-sleeve' for $33. Beautiful new surface and slightly larger diameter (~6
thousandths). Along with a modern new seal, new mains, balanced fan/crank/clutc
h
assembly, and I'm hoping for a good long-term seal. Did the same for my
differential input flange.
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sat Oct 27 14:36:24 2007
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 16:36:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph Tee Shirts
In-Reply-To: <000001c818cb$25955330$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c818cb$25955330$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <4723A148.4030700@frontiernet.net>

Some years back, I bought a collection of "cast off" coffee mugs using 
the same logos, as well as many more. They really didn't stand up to 
time very well.

George Richardson
1957 Triumph TR3 - TS15559L http://www.key-men.com/triumph
1975 Triumph TR6 - Undergoing restoration    
1972 Triumph Stag - Daily Driver
Key Men: Keys for Classics - http://www.key-men.com



Bob Danielson wrote:

>Check out these TR6 Tee Shirts on eBay http://tinyurl.com/36pqpk  Other
>Triumph & LBC shirts are here http://tinyurl.com/3cu7ot
>
>NFI....but I just bought a yellow one :-)

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 14:36:27 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 16:36:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 eater valve question - conclusion
Message-ID: <c1c.215d7649.3454fb4b@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/27/2007 8:12:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Andy.dixon at comcast.net writes:

Dave  Lylis, who actually removed his
from the engine to get a better perspective  for me, 


I all fairness, as this makes me sound like a greater prince/idiot  than I 
really am, the newly rebuilt motor is on the engine stand with the valve  in 
finger tight.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 16:03:42 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 18:03:42 EDT
Subject: [TR] 3A Rockers with new valve seats
Message-ID: <c96.1b8ea414.34550fbe@aol.com>

I have seen this question asked on another site about a TR6 which got me to  
thinking (Oh oh).
I had new seats put in my 3A head and the valves ground to them.  This  
pulled the valve down into the chamber more than before as the old valve seats  had 
receded.  When I set up the rockers I had to move the adjusters down to  meet 
the pushrods a bit more than they were before.  When I set this up I  looked 
at how the rocker sat on the valve stem and it looked OK but I am going  to 
pull the valve cover again and give it closer inspection.  
The reason for the post: Are these "no lead" seats thicker than the  OEM 
seats and has this changed the rocker geomoetry, or is this now returned to  the 
way it was originally? The amount I had to screw down the adjuster is more  
than I would have imagined from replacing the seats.  
TIA
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sat Oct 27 16:40:14 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 23:40:14 +0100
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
References: <20071027000736.JZUU29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>
	<031801c818b6$b82fbd30$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<001201c818b9$927819e0$2202a8c0@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <033301c818ea$579c3cd0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Well Joe, perhaps 1743 wasn't the best date to pick at random. Further study 
from my diary for that year reveal a certain Mr Thomas Jefferson was born. 
That was the good news.

The bad news is there was a prolonged strike in Coventry as a result of the 
city of Philadelphia opening a "pesthouse" into which immigrants - mainly 
from Coventry and the surrounding district were consigned. Word got back 
quite quickly and there was a long-term stoppage. That said, 1742 was quite 
good - except for the harvest over here and 1744 saw quite a lot of rain.

Jonmac


> Were cars being built in 1743?
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> John
> Macartney
> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 9:31 AM
> To: 'Mailing List Triumph (Triumph Mailing List)'
> Subject: Re: [TR] build date of TR3A
>
> I've been reading the few recent posts about vehicle dating and the 
> queries
> arising from why a car was built in 1743 and not shipped until 1805.
>
> There's a very good reason for why and how this happened, although it
> essentially boils down to 'paperwork.' - the timing of its creation, 
> arrival
>
> and processing. I'd be happy to outline the whys and wherefores (if anyone
> is interested?) but the subject is potentially a little dusty and fusty.
> Also it will require fairly judicious chopping up into bits to send to the
> list if I am to avoid creating a too large post - which will certainly be
> the case with one hit.
>
> Jonmac
> _______________________________________________
> spitlist at cox.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 16:49:28 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 15:49:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3A Rockers with new valve seats
In-Reply-To: <c96.1b8ea414.34550fbe@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071027224927.XDGQ10548.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> Are these "no lead" seats thicker 
> than the  OEM seats

The original seats were simply part of the head casting, so the casting must
be machined to accept the replacement seats.  Then the new seat is machined
in place to match the valve.  Those two machining operations are what set
the height of the new seat, not the thickness of the insert.

Since the original seats were pretty much flush with the surface of the
combustion chamber, it seems unlikely to me that the inserts are too high
unless they actually protrude from the surface.

So my advice is to don't worry, be happy.

Wish I had a TR running, I'd go for a drive even though the weather has
turned gloomy.

Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Oct 27 16:53:38 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 15:53:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] build date of TR3A
In-Reply-To: <033301c818ea$579c3cd0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <20071027000736.JZUU29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>
	<031801c818b6$b82fbd30$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<001201c818b9$927819e0$2202a8c0@newcomputer>
	<033301c818ea$579c3cd0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <000d01c818ec$36db2860$2202a8c0@newcomputer>

John,
I keep forgetting the difference in historical perspective between the UK
and here in the states.  When I was over there in the early 70's, I often
visited flea markets in search of things of value.

What I discovered was that things that we in the states would value as
"Antique" were often regarded as just old junk.  So many GIs would buy up
things like Stationmaster's roll-top desks, oak sideboards and other such
items and pay to ship them back home in order to sell them at over 10 times
what they paid for them.

While we are working on just our third century as a nation, that is just a
minor hiccup on the time scale of the British Isles history.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: John Macartney [mailto:standardtriumph at btinternet.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 3:40 PM
To: Joe Curry; 'Mailing List Triumph (Triumph Mailing List)'
Subject: Re: [TR] build date of TR3A

Well Joe, perhaps 1743 wasn't the best date to pick at random. Further study

from my diary for that year reveal a certain Mr Thomas Jefferson was born. 
That was the good news.

The bad news is there was a prolonged strike in Coventry as a result of the 
city of Philadelphia opening a "pesthouse" into which immigrants - mainly 
from Coventry and the surrounding district were consigned. Word got back 
quite quickly and there was a long-term stoppage. That said, 1742 was quite 
good - except for the harvest over here and 1744 saw quite a lot of rain.

Jonmac


> Were cars being built in 1743?
>
> Joe

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat Oct 27 17:08:30 2007
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 16:08:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Surrey Top
Message-ID: <020e01c818f1$814951b0$8701a8c0@Dell>

Does anyone know if the surrey top for the TR4 was a factory option or a
dealer installed option? A friend is doing an article on options of the period
and would like to know.

Thanks for any insight,
Bob

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sat Oct 27 17:44:19 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 00:44:19 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR4 Surrey Top
References: <020e01c818f1$814951b0$8701a8c0@Dell>
Message-ID: <000601c818f3$4b7cd190$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Hi, Bob

Factory option. I vaguely recall the US dealer network also offered a 
variety of other soft tops. One I did see was a fringed version - no doubt 
for the girlies and after the song from 'Oklahoma'?

Cheers, John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kinderlehrer" <Kinderlehrer at comcast.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 12:08 AM
Subject: [TR] TR4 Surrey Top


> Does anyone know if the surrey top for the TR4 was a factory option or a
> dealer installed option? A friend is doing an article on options of the 
> period
> and would like to know.
>
> Thanks for any insight,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> standardtriumph at btinternet.com
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 17:48:01 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 19:48:01 EDT
Subject: [TR] 3A Rockers with new valve seats
Message-ID: <c38.1f33be46.34552831@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/27/2007 5:49:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

So my  advice is to don't worry, be happy.



I have to laugh.  Thanks.  The prestart/post rebuild  jitters got to me!
David
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 18:11:26 2007
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 20:11:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 Surrey Top
Message-ID: <c4c.2099e92c.34552dae@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/27/2007 7:32:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Kinderlehrer at comcast.net writes:

Does  anyone know if the surrey top for the TR4 was a factory option or a
dealer  installed option? A friend is doing an article on options of the 
period
and  would like to know.


==AM==
TECHNICALLY... ;-)
 
The real question is whether the TR4 hardtop option (likely including the  
vinyl part and its framework -- the "surrey" --  as well as the metal top  
panel) was factory or dealer-installed? Now that we've gotten terminology out of  
the way, the answer is yes to both. A factory hard top installation could be 
had  in body color, while those supplied after the fact and to be installed by 
the  dealer or owner were generally available in either white or black. At 
least that  color choice is what I remember reading in various histories of the 
TR4. By the  time of the TR4A, the "kit" was available with rear light frame and 
metal top  available in "primed" finish. The "surrey" kit, available in both 
black and  white, was a separate option.  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




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From rgperry at earthlink.net  Sat Oct 27 18:49:39 2007
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 19:49:39 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Fun Moment
Message-ID: <28890241.1193532580133.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

>The deer had less traction, skidded its hooves as it accelerated into the >woods.

Terry,

Be thankful that a deer is faster than a black cow at night!!!!
... My friend's vehicle was totaled after hitting the cow.  The cow left the scene after the accident! Greg Perry

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Oct 27 19:17:05 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 19:17:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] Front Apron Installation and Steering TR3
In-Reply-To: <000001c8189c$53c3e110$284d3b47@Scott>
Message-ID: <20071028011648.9D9091879E9@autox.team.net>

Just pulled the front apron off my '58 today and I would advise you to do
everything down there before you put it on.  I doubt that leaving the upper
end of your split steering for later would  hurt but do it all now just in
case you have to get back into the lower end to make adjustments.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
"I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott
Suhring
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 7:22 AM
To: Triumph Mail List
Subject: [TR] Front Apron Installation and Steering TR3

I am at the point to install the front apron of my TR3A restoration but
wanted to check with those who have BTDT. It has the split column and the
lower end is installed. Do I/should I install the rest of the steering,
especially the stator tube and wiring before I put the apron on or is it not
a problem to do this with the apron on, allowing me to tackle this
installment at a later time? My main concern is the front end of the box and
ease to work with this while the apron is one. TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

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11:02 AM

From Andy.dixon at comcast.net  Sun Oct 28 02:17:38 2007
From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 05:17:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 eater valve question - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <c1c.215d7649.3454fb4b@aol.com>
References: <c1c.215d7649.3454fb4b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005201c81943$62d7c430$6700a8c0@andy>

I assumed that there was no coolant in the block, but you still took the
time to do it, and I really appreciate that. Regardless of how small a favor
you may see it on your end; it was a large favor on my end, significantly
influencing what I did, and quite possibly saving me from having problems in
the future.

Andy

 

   _____  

From: DLylis at aol.com [mailto:DLylis at aol.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 4:36 PM
To: Andy.dixon at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 eater valve question - conclusion

 

In a message dated 10/27/2007 8:12:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
Andy.dixon at comcast.net writes:

Dave Lylis, who actually removed his
from the engine to get a better perspective for me, 

I all fairness, as this makes me sound like a greater prince/idiot than I
really am, the newly rebuilt motor is on the engine stand with the valve in
finger tight.

 

David Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO





   _____  

See what's new at HYPERLINK "http://www.aol.com?NCID=AOLCMP00300000001170"
\nAOL.com and HYPERLINK
"http://www.aol.com/mksplash.adp?NCID=AOLCMP00300000001169" \nMake AOL Your
Homepage.


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11:02 AM



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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
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11:02 AM

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Oct 28 06:15:14 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 13:15:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] Synthetic vs. Regular Oil
Message-ID: <102820071315.25597.47248B62000B5223000063FD22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Thought I had a handle on this--and despite the small bit of dripping I get under the TR3 that is possibly due to synthetic--I have been using Valvoline fully synthetic engine oil.  
On a diesel website, however, I got this new piece of information I don't remember being discussed yet on the List.  It's quoted in the next paragraph:  
The bottom line on Synthetics is that they give superior lubracation, BUT they don't Suspend and therefore do not carry dirt away to the filter very well. When Mobil 1 first came out, the FAA allowed their use for piston aircraft engines. After they saw what was happening, they banned their use. However, if you mix synthetic and crude oils together, you get the best of both worlds. Don't buy the blends, they contain two little of the synthetics. A 30 or 40 percent Synthetic blend is a good blend. Good for you car too. 
My question is how this could be?  If particles are not in suspension, they are in the bottom of the oil pan, not doing damage.  If they are in suspension, or if they get picked up off the bottom, they wind up going through the filter.  Right?  ...Or is there something to the paragraph above?
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Oct 28 06:17:42 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 13:17:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] Synthetic vs. Regular Oil
Message-ID: <102820071317.50.47248BF6000444F90000003222165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Whoop.  Another posting on the same website seems to indicate that synthetic will not suspend lead, but will the other contaminants.  Still the issue is what to believe.

 http://www.dieseldoctor.com/messageboard/data/163.html

Terry
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: terryrs at comcast.net 

Thought I had a handle on this--and despite the small bit of dripping I get under the TR3 that is possibly due to synthetic--I have been using Valvoline fully synthetic engine oil.  
On a diesel website, however, I got this new piece of information I don't remember being discussed yet on the List.  It's quoted in the next paragraph:  
The bottom line on Synthetics is that they give superior lubracation, BUT they don't Suspend and therefore do not carry dirt away to the filter very well. When Mobil 1 first came out, the FAA allowed their use for piston aircraft engines. After they saw what was happening, they banned their use. However, if you mix synthetic and crude oils together, you get the best of both worlds. Don't buy the blends, they contain two little of the synthetics. A 30 or 40 percent Synthetic blend is a good blend. Good for you car too. 
My question is how this could be?  If particles are not in suspension, they are in the bottom of the oil pan, not doing damage.  If they are in suspension, or if they get picked up off the bottom, they wind up going through the filter.  Right?  ...Or is there something to the paragraph above?
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Oct 28 06:32:15 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 13:32:15 +0000
Subject: [TR] 3A Rockers with new valve seats
In-Reply-To: <c96.1b8ea414.34550fbe@aol.com>
References: <c96.1b8ea414.34550fbe@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W266D9BB3FDE1D6311B8481E5900@phx.gbl>

Check your rocker geometry.  When a valve is half way open the rocker tip
should be at the middle of the valve stem.  If this is not the case buy an
adjustable, screw adjuster on the top, and adjust it until the rocker tip is
in the proper position.  Then measure the push rod and buy new push rods for
your engine that are the length of the adjustable one.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Sun Oct 28 06:43:16 2007
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 06:43:16
Subject: [TR] Bad news from the fire front in San Diego -
Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20071028064316.1e775d2a@pop.west.cox.net>

Just heard and saw on the news that the two people died in their home in
the fire here in San Diego, specifically the San Pasqual valley, were car
restorers, and in the video of the burned out wreckage were two TR6's 
It's a terrible loss of lives, and not sure if it was anybody on the list,
not that it matters - The real tragedy of all this is that it appears some
of theses fires were intentionally set

Don't know what else there is to say - other than the fires are at this
point mostly contained -
Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San Diego)

From bbrewer at tvwireless.net  Sun Oct 28 08:24:47 2007
From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 08:24:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Unable to Subscribe to List!
Message-ID: <457515BE-07B9-4F2C-8051-952E933AFDFC@tvwireless.net>

      I just got new ATT high speed internet. I am changing over all  
of my accounts to use the new email before canceling my old ISP.  
Whenever I try to subscribe to Triumphs-digest on another computer  
with my new email account I get the following error message emailed  
back to me. I am using the links on the team.net website. Can someone  
explain to me why it is doing this?

      Bill Brewer
      Tehachapi, CA


----- Original Message -----
From: <MAILER-DAEMON at yahoo.com>
To: <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 8:40 PM
Subject: failure notice



> Hi. This is the qmail-send program at yahoo.com.
> I'm afraid I wasn't able to deliver your message to the following
>
addresses.

> This is a permanent error; I've given up. Sorry it didn't work out.
>
> < majordomo at autox.team.net>:
> 70.58.101.41 does not like recipient.
> Remote host said: 550 5.1.1 < majordomo at autox.team.net>: Recipient  
> address
>
rejected: User unknown in local recipient table

> Giving up on 70.58.101.41.

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 09:33:37 2007
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 12:33:37 EDT
Subject: [TR] Unable to Subscribe to List!
Message-ID: <d04.1dbef8e8.345613e1@aol.com>

Try setting the out going mail to plain text, no attachments as the list does
not like resource eating fluff.

Also please make sure the auto quote function is shut off, some listers have
this function on, quote a entire long e mail ( and sometimes multiple e mails
as the thread goes along )  then reply  " Me too".  This is another resource
waster.

Harold
**************************************
 See what's new at
http://www.aol.com

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 09:45:27 2007
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 12:45:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bad news from the fire front in San Diego -
In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20071028064316.1e775d2a@pop.west.cox.net>
References: <3.0.4.16.20071028064316.1e775d2a@pop.west.cox.net>
Message-ID: <8C9E79914020C7E-6D0-4EF5@webmail-md08.sysops.aol.com>

 Barry and List:

Here is a link to a story which shows one of the cars and the owner, Andreas Hess leaning on the burnt out hulk of the car.? No idea if he is on the list or not.

Aaron

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=/news/2007/10/28/wfire128.xml


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Schwartz <v6spitfireguy at cox.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 6:43 am
Subject: [TR] Bad news from the fire front in San Diego -










Just heard and saw on the news that the two people died in their home in
the fire here in San Diego, specifically the San Pasqual valley, were car
restorers, and in the video of the burned out wreckage were two TR6's 
It's a terrible loss of lives, and not sure if it was anybody on the list,
not that it matters - The real tragedy of all this is that it appears some
of theses fires were intentionally set

Don't know what else there is to say - other than the fires are at this
point mostly contained -
Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San Diego)





 


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Sun Oct 28 09:46:04 2007
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 09:46:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Nuts, bolts, washers, screws, etc
Message-ID: <531765.31287.qm@web81313.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

In the course of the re-build/restoration of my 55 TR2, I have amassed a large variety of orphan fasteners.  Some I know where they go, others I have no idea as this has been a long time endeavor, and I confess, my dis-assembly process, sketches, photos and record keeping was not the best.
  So---does anyone know of a source(s) that identifies what nut, bolt, etc goes to what and where?  Grades of fasteners used?  Pitch, etc?  The parts book does not seem to be of much help---unless there is a secret key.........
  Any tips, information appreciated.
  Dan
   


Planning & Development Services
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673

From trbobtr at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 28 11:21:21 2007
From: trbobtr at yahoo.com (Bob Rolfes)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 11:21:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] generator charging problems
Message-ID: <852896.81156.qm@web90604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Here is a little problem I have never run into before.  I thought I would bounce it off the list members first before I get out the test meter and wiring diagrams.
   
  It all started with the generator light coming on while the engine was running in my 59 TR3a.  No big deal thinks I, so I changed the worn out brushes in the generator.  On starting and test drive everything ran fine and seemed to charge normal according to the lamp and positive amps on the meter.  But when I turned the car off, the generator lamp stayed on even with the key off and removed.  I then then restarted the car.  The lamp went off, but now there was no charging showing on the amp meter. 
   
  Now I have no charging and no generator lamp at anytime, on or off.  I am thinking voltage regulator problems, but I wanted to ask for comment before getting dirty again.
   
  Bob
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 13:09:01 2007
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 16:09:01 EDT
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
Message-ID: <bd1.1d5d1f00.3456465d@aol.com>

To the List:
As the local tyre purveyor and installer for most of the British cars in our 
club/area, I have always had a local source for inexpensive 165R15 tyres to 
fit these cars.    Now those sources have dried up and major suppliers like The 
Tire Rack have nothing.   Does anyone know of a tyre, either major or 
off-brand, of this size, besides those from British Wire Wheel and Coker?   No problem 
with them, but prices are rather high.   I'm gonna call all the local 
suppliers (near Rochester, NY) tomorrow, but wonder if anyone else has a source that 
he or she would share.   Many thanks!
George Haynes


**************************************
 See what's new at 
http://www.aol.com

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sun Oct 28 13:21:07 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 13:21:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
In-Reply-To: <bd1.1d5d1f00.3456465d@aol.com>
References: <bd1.1d5d1f00.3456465d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0A0B30909D894B97923FB9DAE2DA8B20@GeoPC>

Every time I buy 165x15s I find that the last brand I bought is NLA 
(Michelin, Dunlop, Cooper).  Just recently I got a set of Kuhmos in 
165/80x15.  Not a 'Metric' size but very close to 165x15... maybe just a 
tiny bit taller.  So far (3000 miles) they seem fine.

As I recall, Discount Tire had a Metric called the Arizonian but I have no 
experience with nor know who makes it.

Geo


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 1:09 PM
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres


> To the List:
> As the local tyre purveyor and installer for most of the British cars in 
> our
> club/area, I have always had a local source for inexpensive 165R15 tyres 
> to
> fit these cars.    Now those sources have dried up and major suppliers 
> like The
> Tire Rack have nothing.   Does anyone know of a tyre, either major or
> off-brand, of this size, besides those from British Wire Wheel and Coker? 
> No problem
> with them, but prices are rather high.   I'm gonna call all the local
> suppliers (near Rochester, NY) tomorrow, but wonder if anyone else has a 
> source that
> he or she would share.   Many thanks!
> George Haynes 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Oct 28 14:07:08 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 21:07:08 -0000
Subject: [TR] Genuineness-ness-ness?
Message-ID: <005901c819a6$80917120$0201a8c0@Bevan>

List

I don't want to be seen as a killjoy but knowing how attentive many are to 
originality, there's a real howler on the VTR website. It's in the top LH 
corner of the home page where various Triumph pix dissolve into one another.
One of them is a white TR3A with a UK style licence plate HOJ 781 W. Does it 
belong to anyone on the list?
As cars in the UK keep their licence plates for life, regardless of where 
they are used or who owns them, the W on this plate indicates the car was 
first registered between 1 Aug 1980 and 31 Jul 1981 - say nearly 20 years 
after the car was produced? Even if the car had been imported into the UK in 
1981, it would have been allocated an age-related registration, consistent 
with its date of manufacture.
While the owner may seek to make his/her car have an 'Englishness' about it, 
the best move would be to remove the W suffix and leave things as HOJ 781. 
This would be much more in keeping with the type of licence plate layout for 
the time - in fact 781 HOJ would be even better, because at about this 
period (1958-1962) the order of numbers and letters was reversed.
No offence implied and just for the purists among you...................... 
:)

Cheers, Jonmac 

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Oct 28 14:17:23 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 14:17:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Genuineness-ness-ness?
In-Reply-To: <005901c819a6$80917120$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <005901c819a6$80917120$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <000301c819a7$eec91ed0$2202a8c0@newcomputer>

I suspect that it was not installed for correctness as much as "cuteness"
because most people in the US don't know the difference.

I have a plate on a loveseat I made out of the beck end of a 63 Spit with
the numbers "MUC 393" which came off the 52 MGTD I brought back from my tour
of duty in the UK.  Not correct for any spitfire but it looks cool!

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Macartney
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:07 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Genuineness-ness-ness?

List

I don't want to be seen as a killjoy but .....

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 14:18:29 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 17:18:29 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 - Announcement at
 Triumphes...
Message-ID: <cc9.1f3628ae.345656a5@aol.com>

Several years ago, I attended the dedication of the TR Memorial.
I was privileged to be asked to navigate for a driver in the  Macmillan 
Parliamentary Classic Car Rally. It was a memorable experience as  I was able to 
meet some MP's, had tea in the MPs tearoom, listen to a brief  presentation 
about the value of the Macmillan Fund, and manage to make a fawning  fool of 
myself for half an hour with Sir Sterling Moss. 
 
Of all the things I remember about that fabulous time was how much money we  
raised. The driver and I raised a few thouand. It was very easy. I just  asked 
people to sponsor me at the rate of  a cent a miles or so.  (I had several 
subcontractors working for me, and they were exceptionally  easy!) 
 
I didn't realize we were supposed to raise money until a couple of  days 
before the rally. All sorts of cars attended, as well as an antique bus.  They all 
came to the Parliamentary Palace in London from all over England,  Scotland, 
and Wales. We parked in the MP's parking spots as it was a  Sunday.
 
As I recall there was a pretty large 6 digit amount raised and given  to the 
fund. We had free tea and biscuits, and listened to an inspiring  message from 
a cancer victim about how much the Macmillan fund meant to  her.
This experience prompted me to do volunteer work for a charity car  show 
every year (7 years now) which raises a lot of money for United Way.
I just attended a very nice show last weekend which donated $2000 to a  fund. 
With 165 cars there, if people had collected ahead of time "sponsors" (in  my 
experience very easy)  I can see where that amount could have been  way 
significant, like $16,500. 
Pebble Beach this year was $250 a head (for charity also). I can imagine at  
$250 a head, that show could have turned over $41,000 plus.
I will never criticize what people do supporting charities as I respect any  
one who does, and I'm ok with those who say no, its going to waste. 
Undoubtedly  some amount does.  I just really get turned on by a serious charity effort  
associated with cars. I think its a powerful combination which not only  does 
good for the charity, but also for the hobby. 
I would love to hear about the proposal.It sounds like a noble effort. I'd  
like to see a big goal, significant to the recipient.
Thanks, Mike Moore 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Oct 28 14:24:03 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 15:24:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] Genuineness-ness-ness?
In-Reply-To: <005901c819a6$80917120$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <005901c819a6$80917120$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <4724FDF3.1010107@tscusa.org>

John Macartney wrote:
> List
>
> I don't want to be seen as a killjoy but knowing how attentive many are to 
> originality, there's a real howler on the VTR website. It's in the top LH 
> corner of the home page where various Triumph pix dissolve into one another.
> One of them is a white TR3A with a UK style licence plate HOJ 781 W. Does it 
> belong to anyone on the list?
>
> :)
>
> Cheers, Jonmac 
John,
You have far too much bloody time on your hands mate!
Put your reading glasses on and see that TR3 is a Left Hand Drive car.  
The plate may be decorative.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Oct 28 14:27:46 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 15:27:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
In-Reply-To: <0A0B30909D894B97923FB9DAE2DA8B20@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <20071028222617.48C091879F6@autox.team.net>

Also, Nankang has a reasonably priced metric radial.  I bought some locally,
near Salt Lake, UT, for about $40ea (165/R-15).  Drove them casually most of
the summer with no problems at all.

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
"I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo &
Kathleen Hahn
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:21 PM
To: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres

Every time I buy 165x15s I find that the last brand I bought is NLA
(Michelin, Dunlop, Cooper).  Just recently I got a set of Kuhmos in
165/80x15.  Not a 'Metric' size but very close to 165x15... maybe just a
tiny bit taller.  So far (3000 miles) they seem fine.

As I recall, Discount Tire had a Metric called the Arizonian but I have no
experience with nor know who makes it.

Geo


----- Original Message -----
From: <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 1:09 PM
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres


> To the List:
> As the local tyre purveyor and installer for most of the British cars in 
> our
> club/area, I have always had a local source for inexpensive 165R15 tyres 
> to
> fit these cars.    Now those sources have dried up and major suppliers 
> like The
> Tire Rack have nothing.   Does anyone know of a tyre, either major or
> off-brand, of this size, besides those from British Wire Wheel and Coker? 
> No problem
> with them, but prices are rather high.   I'm gonna call all the local
> suppliers (near Rochester, NY) tomorrow, but wonder if anyone else has a 
> source that
> he or she would share.   Many thanks!
> George Haynes 
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 10/28/2007
1:58 PM
 

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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 10/28/2007
1:58 PM

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Oct 28 14:43:21 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 21:43:21 -0000
Subject: [TR] Genuineness-ness-ness?
References: <005901c819a6$80917120$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<4724FDF3.1010107@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <007701c819ab$8f999c10$0201a8c0@Bevan>

I'm having a rest from my domestic labours; I'm exhausted; I'm looking for a 
cage to rattle!!!!
Of course I can see its an LH drive car and yes, I'm sure the plate is for 
decorative purposes too - but it's a total joke, to us Brits anyway.
I'n now going out into the town and to my favourite pub to see if I can find 
someone else to annoy.

JM

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glenn A. Merrell" <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
To: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Genuineness-ness-ness?


> John Macartney wrote:
>> List
>>
>> I don't want to be seen as a killjoy but knowing how attentive many are 
>> to originality, there's a real howler on the VTR website. It's in the top 
>> LH corner of the home page where various Triumph pix dissolve into one 
>> another.
>> One of them is a white TR3A with a UK style licence plate HOJ 781 W. Does 
>> it belong to anyone on the list?
>>
>> :)
>>
>> Cheers, Jonmac
> John,
> You have far too much bloody time on your hands mate!
> Put your reading glasses on and see that TR3 is a Left Hand Drive car. 
> The plate may be decorative.
>
> -- 
> Glenn A. Merrell
> Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
> The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, 
> dead bugs on the windshield!

From mrv8q at aim.com  Sun Oct 28 14:50:38 2007
From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 17:50:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
In-Reply-To: <20071028222617.48C091879F6@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8C9E7C3B68DC04D-B8-7A01@MBLK-M20.sysops.aol.com>

Check your local Firestone dealer; I picked up 4 for around $200...this 
was 2 years ago..

Best, Kevin Browne
________________________________________________________________________
Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- Unlimited storage and 
industry-leading spam and email virus protection.

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Oct 28 14:50:35 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 15:50:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] Genuineness-ness-ness?
In-Reply-To: <007701c819ab$8f999c10$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <005901c819a6$80917120$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<4724FDF3.1010107@tscusa.org> <007701c819ab$8f999c10$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <4725042B.30406@tscusa.org>

John Macartney wrote:
> I'm having a rest from my domestic labours; I'm exhausted; I'm looking for a 
> cage to rattle!!!!
> Of course I can see its an LH drive car and yes, I'm sure the plate is for 
> decorative purposes too - but it's a total joke, to us Brits anyway.
> I'n now going out into the town and to my favourite pub to see if I can find 
> someone else to annoy.
>
> JM
>   
Well 'ave one or five for me too!  I'm burned to a crisp, and have an 80 
hour week coming up tomorrow at the client.

I bet if the owner pipes up, he will explain his subtle arrangement to 
provoke the "for your Eyes Only" chuckle.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Oct 28 14:52:57 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 17:52:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Genuineness?
In-Reply-To: <007701c819ab$8f999c10$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <4724CC79.25759.B64422B@localhost>

> Genuineness-ness-nes?

Are they the folks who brew up the stout?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1096 - Release Date: 10/27/2007 11:02 AM

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sun Oct 28 14:57:37 2007
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 16:57:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Genuineness?
References: <4724CC79.25759.B64422B@localhost>
Message-ID: <004701c819ad$8e01fa30$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

That's how I pronounce it after 8 or 9 pints of the stuff.

Mike




>> Genuineness-ness-nes?
> 
> Are they the folks who brew up the stout?
> 
> -- 
> Jim Muller

From tr_jag at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 28 15:49:26 2007
From: tr_jag at yahoo.com (Robert Muzio)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 15:49:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
In-Reply-To: <8C9E7C3B68DC04D-B8-7A01@MBLK-M20.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <227365.19537.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Try Tire Rack, they carried 165/80R15 Kumho priced at
$30 each. I sourced them locally and I'm happy with
them. 
Bob Muzio
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From bbrewer at tvwireless.net  Sun Oct 28 19:06:14 2007
From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 19:06:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
Message-ID: <393F4302-A425-46DE-A4B6-909D85B067E1@tvwireless.net>

      I recently bought  set of Vredensteins 165 X 15 from British  
Wire Wheel in Fresno for about $80 each. Made in Holland. I really  
like them. I bought a set of Dayton Chrome spokes and he mounted and  
balanced them right and shipped them to me UPS. I would recommend  
them wholeheartedly.

      Bill Brewer
      Tehachapi, CA



Message: 2
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 16:09:01 EDT
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <bd1.1d5d1f00.3456465d at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

To the List:
As the local tyre purveyor and installer for most of the British cars  
in our
club/area, I have always had a local source for inexpensive 165R15  
tyres to
fit these cars.    Now those sources have dried up and major  
suppliers like The
Tire Rack have nothing.   Does anyone know of a tyre, either major or
off-brand, of this size, besides those from British Wire Wheel and  
Coker?   No problem
with them, but prices are rather high.   I'm gonna call all the local
suppliers (near Rochester, NY) tomorrow, but wonder if anyone else  
has a source that
he or she would share.   Many thanks!
George Haynes

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Oct 28 22:03:48 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 21:03:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] generator charging problems
In-Reply-To: <852896.81156.qm@web90604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20071029040348.NPNH29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

>   Now I have no charging and no generator lamp at anytime, on 
> or off.  I am thinking voltage regulator problems, but I 
> wanted to ask for comment before getting dirty again.

I'm thinking most likely the wires have come loose from the D terminal on
the control box.  Except for the join at that point, the light should come
on even without the control box in the circuit.  And if the problem was just
wiring to the light, the generator should still charge.

Another possibility might be both wires loose from the generator ... not
sure if the control box provides enough of a ground path to light the
warning lamp or not.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Oct 28 22:20:36 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 21:20:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] 3A Rockers with new valve seats
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W266D9BB3FDE1D6311B8481E5900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20071029042036.OODE10548.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> Then measure the push rod and buy new push rods 
> for your engine that are the length of the adjustable one.

The problem with that idea is that on engines with a fixed rocker pivot
(like Triumphs), changing the length of the pushrod does not alter the
rocker geometry.

In order to alter the geometry of rocker to valve, you have to move the
pivot point relative to the end of the valve (or alter the rocker itself).  

Changing pushrod length only makes a difference to geometry on engines where
the pivot point is moved to adjust valve lash (like most American engines).

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Oct 28 22:42:49 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 21:42:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] Synthetic vs. Regular Oil
In-Reply-To: <102820071317.50.47248BF6000444F90000003222165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20071029044248.LHGE19534.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> When Mobil 1 first 
> came out, the FAA allowed their use for piston aircraft 
> engines.

Uh huh.  Do you really believe the FAA allows *car* oil to be used in
aircraft ?

I don't.

Nor do I believe the rest of this story as stated.

I don't even believe the FAA has forbidden use of synthetic oil in aircraft
engines, except maybe those pesky diesel ones <g>

Randall

From roger at rw-architect.com  Mon Oct 29 08:29:59 2007
From: roger at rw-architect.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 08:29:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
In-Reply-To: <393F4302-A425-46DE-A4B6-909D85B067E1@tvwireless.net>
Message-ID: <20071029162907.57A5418763E@autox.team.net>

I was driving around for a long time without a real spare and recently broke
down and got a Vredenstein 165R15 from Coker. It is a nice tire, but it is
too wide to fit in the spare tire compartment below the boot. I had to let
out most of the air to squeeze it in. So now if I have a flat, instead of a
very "iffy" old spare, I have a new flat spare and a hand pump!

Roger Wilson
Berkeley, CA
'60 TR3A


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+roger=rw-architect.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+roger=rw-architect.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
William Brewer
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 7:06 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres

      I recently bought  set of Vredensteins 165 X 15 from British  
Wire Wheel in Fresno for about $80 each. Made in Holland. I really  
like them. I bought a set of Dayton Chrome spokes and he mounted and  
balanced them right and shipped them to me UPS. I would recommend  
them wholeheartedly.

      Bill Brewer
      Tehachapi, CA



Message: 2
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 16:09:01 EDT
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <bd1.1d5d1f00.3456465d at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

To the List:
As the local tyre purveyor and installer for most of the British cars  
in our
club/area, I have always had a local source for inexpensive 165R15  
tyres to
fit these cars.    Now those sources have dried up and major  
suppliers like The
Tire Rack have nothing.   Does anyone know of a tyre, either major or
off-brand, of this size, besides those from British Wire Wheel and  
Coker?   No problem
with them, but prices are rather high.   I'm gonna call all the local
suppliers (near Rochester, NY) tomorrow, but wonder if anyone else  
has a source that
he or she would share.   Many thanks!
George Haynes
_______________________________________________
roger at rw-architect.com

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 29 08:37:45 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:37:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] "59 TR3 for sale.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W427C89D50B1B0AFFDCE62CE5910@phx.gbl>

At the gas station a guy in a Caddy asked if I wanted to buy another TR.  He
has a "59 TR3 that has sat in his driveway for years.  I have not seen it but
he says it will run.  He thinks he wants $5,000.   His number is 831-336-2410.
His name is Tag.  You can say you got the information from Tom on the Triumphs
list.


Best regards,
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!  Play Star Shuffle:  the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 29 09:54:20 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 08:54:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
In-Reply-To: <20071029162907.57A5418763E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20071029155420.HUUM26097.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> It is a nice tire, but it is too wide to fit in the spare 
> tire compartment below the boot.

FWIW, 15" "temporary use" spare tires are readily available for almost
nothing at any wrecking yard and fit just dandy on stock TR3 wheels.  Leave
lots of room in the tire well for other spare parts.

Randall

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 29 09:07:49 2007
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 11:07:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Synthetic vs. Regular Oil
In-Reply-To: <20071029044248.LHGE19534.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <BAY109-F40A413809BD9F813AF3873A5910@phx.gbl>

> > When Mobil 1 first
> > came out, the FAA allowed their use for piston aircraft
> > engines.
>
>Uh huh.  Do you really believe the FAA allows *car* oil to be used in
>aircraft ?
>
>I don't.
>
>Nor do I believe the rest of this story as stated.
>
>I don't even believe the FAA has forbidden use of synthetic oil in aircraft
>engines, except maybe those pesky diesel ones <g>
>
>Randall

The FAA and aircraft engine manufacturers did approve Mobil AV 1 (an 
aviation spec synthetic oil, not Mobil 1 car oil) for use in aircraft 
engines. This approval was later rescinded, but I disremember the reason 
why. The reason was given in a Textron Lycoming Service Bulletin which I 
have somewhere, but I'm too lazy to look for it.

John

From red_tr250 at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 29 09:13:30 2007
From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:13:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Surrey Top
In-Reply-To: <c4c.2099e92c.34552dae@aol.com>
References: <c4c.2099e92c.34552dae@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY131-W4011B7A829E3F511588365D2910@phx.gbl>

One other little bit about the "factory installed" surrey or 2-piece Hard top.
A factory installed surrey car would NOT have snaps on the doors...don't
really need a tonneau cover when you have a hard top installed

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez


> From: ZoboHerald at aol.com
> Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 20:11:26 -0400
> To: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Surrey Top
>
> In a message dated 10/27/2007 7:32:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> Kinderlehrer at comcast.net writes:
>
> Does anyone know if the surrey top for the TR4 was a factory option or a
> dealer installed option? A friend is doing an article on options of the
> period
> and would like to know.
>
>
> ==AM==
> TECHNICALLY... ;-)
>
> The real question is whether the TR4 hardtop option (likely including the
> vinyl part and its framework -- the "surrey" -- as well as the metal top
> panel) was factory or dealer-installed? Now that we've gotten terminology
out of
> the way, the answer is yes to both. A factory hard top installation could
be
> had in body color, while those supplied after the fact and to be installed
by
> the dealer or owner were generally available in either white or black. At
> least that color choice is what I remember reading in various histories of
the
> TR4. By the time of the TR4A, the "kit" was available with rear light frame
and
> metal top available in "primed" finish. The "surrey" kit, available in both
> black and white, was a separate option.
>
> --Andy Mace
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er,
> Triumph Herald engine with wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
>
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and
> Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_
> (http://triumph-herald.us/)
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> red_tr250 at hotmail.com
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by
today.

From red_tr250 at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 29 09:19:10 2007
From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:19:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TRiumph 2000
In-Reply-To: <BAY131-W4011B7A829E3F511588365D2910@phx.gbl>
References: <c4c.2099e92c.34552dae@aol.com>
	<BAY131-W4011B7A829E3F511588365D2910@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY131-W4497ED6E49025B06802E8D2910@phx.gbl>

OK, so officially have the TRiumph bug...well, maybe about 10 cars ago, but I
think I have it even more??

Anyone out there have a Triumph 2000 that's in need of some attention that
they would part with?  I'd prefer a '60's model MKI /w a 4-speed, but I guess
here in the states, ya' gotta take what ya' can get!

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez
Cincy, OH
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!  Play Star Shuffle:  the word scramble
challenge with star power.

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Oct 29 09:47:04 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 16:47:04 -0000
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TRiumph 2000
References: <c4c.2099e92c.34552dae@aol.com><BAY131-W4011B7A829E3F511588365D2910@phx.gbl>
	<BAY131-W4497ED6E49025B06802E8D2910@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00ca01c81a4b$56a51d30$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Todd Bermudez wrote:
> Anyone out there have a Triumph 2000 that's in need of some attention that
> they would part with?  I'd prefer a '60's model MKI /w a 4-speed, but I 
> guess
> here in the states, ya' gotta take what ya' can get!

Plenty here in the UK, Todd - but I guess all of them will be RH steer. I 
believe Blake Discher has a nice one in Slate Grey that he found in Canada. 
Maybe if you offered him enough...............?

Jonmac
2000/2500/2.5PI Tech. Sec
Triumph Sports Six Club
www.tssc.org.uk

From trlist01 at canleyworks.com  Mon Oct 29 11:56:35 2007
From: trlist01 at canleyworks.com (Mark Gendron)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 11:56:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Nuts, bolts, washers, screws, etc
In-Reply-To: <531765.31287.qm@web81313.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <NCBBLLALCIHKNLMAJIBKAELKJMAB.trlist01@canleyworks.com>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daniel Cronin
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:46 AM
>
> In the course of the re-build/restoration of my 55 TR2,
> I have amassed a large variety of orphan fasteners.

Dan:

You might find the Hardware Catalog to be helpful.
You can cross-reference the original Triumph part numbers
to find the specifications for each fastener:

http://www.canleyworks.com/triumph/hardware_catalog/standard_triumph_hardwar
e_catalog.pdf

Cheers
-Mark

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Oct 29 12:15:11 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:15:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Nuts, bolts, washers, screws, etc
References: <NCBBLLALCIHKNLMAJIBKAELKJMAB.trlist01@canleyworks.com>
Message-ID: <020001c81a60$077a5760$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

The subject line of your email reminds me of a headline in a newspaper that
led into a story of an inmate that escaped from a mental institution, went
into a coin operated laundry, raped two women who were doing their laundry
and ran off as police closed in.

The headline stated: "NUT SCREWS WASHERS and BOLTS"

Joe C.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Gendron" <trlist01 at canleyworks.com>
To: "A Daniel Cronin" <adcronin at ameritech.net>; "Triumph List"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Nuts, bolts, washers, screws, etc


> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Daniel Cronin
> > Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:46 AM
> >
> > In the course of the re-build/restoration of my 55 TR2,
> > I have amassed a large variety of orphan fasteners.
>
> Dan:
>
> You might find the Hardware Catalog to be helpful.
> You can cross-reference the original Triumph part numbers
> to find the specifications for each fastener:
>
>
http://www.canleyworks.com/triumph/hardware_catalog/standard_triumph_hardwar
> e_catalog.pdf
>
> Cheers
> -Mark
> _______________________________________________
> spitlist at cox.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 29 11:05:21 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 10:05:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] Synthetic vs. Regular Oil
In-Reply-To: <BAY109-F40A413809BD9F813AF3873A5910@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20071029170521.RNNQ29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> The FAA and aircraft engine manufacturers did approve Mobil 
> AV 1 (an aviation spec synthetic oil, not Mobil 1 car oil) 
> for use in aircraft engines. This approval was later 
> rescinded, but I disremember the reason why.

Ok, having a particular aviation oil blend rescinded makes a lot more sense.
(Not that I doubted you at all, John.)  But that's a far cry from
disallowing all synthetic oils; and still has virtually nothing to do with
which oils work well in car engines running unleaded fuel. (Even "low lead"
Av gas contains far more lead than automotive fuel ever did; plus as I
understand it lacks the halogen "lead scrubber" compounds commonly used in
automotive fuel.)

Randall

From robertrudolphi at netscape.net  Mon Oct 29 12:06:32 2007
From: robertrudolphi at netscape.net (robertrudolphi at netscape.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:06:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing a new Roadster Factory gear reduction starter tr6
Message-ID: <8C9E875F3FEE351-544-50E0@webmail-da15.sysops.aol.com>

Hello all,

I just purchased a new gear reduction starter for my 74 TR6 as the old one just failed. By question is, is there just a one wire from the battery to hook up? It did not come with any instructions and it looks like there may be more then one place to connect a secondary wire and I wanted to get input from the list before installing.? By the way I know the first thing to do is to disconnect the battery.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Robert Rudolphi

1974 TR6
________________________________________________________________________
Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- Unlimited storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Mon Oct 29 12:10:49 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:10:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dorothy Deen, American British Car Legend, 1922-2007
Message-ID: <01a801c81a5f$6d037ea0$0201a8c0@bjdtr3a>

American British Car Legend Dies
Dorothy Deen, March 28, 1922 - October 23, 2007

Oceanside California, October 23, 2007.
As raging wildfires threatened her Southern California home, Dorothy Deen
Sitz died in a nearby Oceanside hospital after a long illness. The vivacious
blonde Deen was best known for the Doretti sports car, a line of sports car
accessories of the same name and for importing Triumph Sports cars for the
Western United States. A darling of the local and automotive press, she was
a common fixture at races and promoting the sports cars she sold.

-more-

The complete text of the Press Release and a photograph of Dorothy Deen and
a TR3A is available for review on "The Triumph Forum" at
http://www.vtr.org/forum/index.php/topic,210.0.html.  

Thank you,
Blake J. Discher, President
Vintage Triumph Register

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 29 13:29:00 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:29:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] Installing a new Roadster Factory gear reduction starter
 tr6
In-Reply-To: <8C9E875F3FEE351-544-50E0@webmail-da15.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071029192901.ROAT5176.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>

> I just purchased a new gear reduction starter for my 74 TR6 
> as the old one just failed. By question is, is there just a 
> one wire from the battery to hook up?

It should just take the same two wires your original starter did, the heavy
wire from the battery and a smaller white/red one from the starter relay.

> it looks like there may be more then one 
> place to connect a secondary wire

Perhaps yours is different than mine, then.  The only other terminal on mine
was where the very short lead from the starter motor itself connected to the
other big terminal on the integral solenoid.

Randall

From dorpaul at negia.net  Mon Oct 29 12:48:39 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:48:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Too much crack?
Message-ID: <000601c81a64$b568b890$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I needed humbling.  When I tentatively laid my TR3A's bonnet ontop of it's
compartment, I saw huge side cracks between the bonnet and outer fenders!  On
the front of one of the front fenders in the area where the front bumper, it
lacks 5/8", (surely this is too much?)  I haven't attached the TR3A apron yet-
(would the apron reduce these gaps about 1/2" on each side?)  Is this
tolerable or should I remove the fenders again?

    One finicky place on both side's is where the  scuttle's guttering meets
the outer fender's top trough.  In both cases, I was successful in getting the
fender's trough on the inside and closest to the middle of the engine
compartment.
    One front fender is also 1/4" or so too high.  Tolerable for a daily
driver never wrecked or disassembeled before?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Oct 29 12:48:47 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:48:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] Installing a new Roadster Factory gear reduction starter
 tr6
Message-ID: <c46.233f54e7.3457931f@aol.com>

Robert,
I suggest you go to the British starters website      
_www.BritishStarters.com_ (http://www.BritishStarters.com) .  

Dr. Martin sells the same Gustavson (sp?) which you and  i have. He sells a 
little piece of wire you can easily make  yourself.
Look on his website for "solenoid bypass  instructions" .
Best, Mike Moore 




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Oct 29 12:53:06 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:53:06 EDT
Subject: [TR] Installing a new Roadster Factory gear reduction starter
 tr6
Message-ID: <caa.1b25bf0f.34579422@aol.com>

AHHH! I forgot you had a TR6. If the solenoid is on the sdtarter its as  
Randal says. If the solenoid is up on the firewall etc,, you can use the  solenoid 
bypass instructions.
 
Mike Moore 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Oct 29 14:56:26 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 17:56:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] Too much crack?
Message-ID: <c29.2190d7ca.3457b10a@aol.com>

Paul,
This may be helpful.  When I disaassembled my '60 I marked up the  
measurements on pieces of masking tape.  The distance between the  fenders at a level 
about lined up with the parking/trafficator lights is 46  3/8".  That is with no 
bead in place.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From trhouse at greenapple.com  Mon Oct 29 15:15:40 2007
From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 17:15:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW: [Fot] Just Sick - car stolen
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0710291506i7942f068w6850ed865224c5e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C34BC5BC.1CAB%trhouse@greenapple.com>

----------
From: "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:06:13 -0700
To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Just Sick - car stolen

Came home from a 5 day trip to find only the remnants of the smashed
receiver lock where my trailer, containing my TR250 race car, was when I
left.  Hoped like hell it had been impounded for parking too long in a city
lot [I live on a houseboat and the trailer lives in the lot where I park].
No such luck.  Police report filed, insurance claim in.

Information:  Trailer was a white 16x7 Road force.  No exterior markings.
Car: BRG #444 TR5.  Accusump and dual master cylinders under hood.  Battery
and cell in rear.  Full cage.   Stainless lines to the injectors.  Mallory
distributor.  Fabricated dash.  No speedo.  4 speed, no OD.

Photos at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/StolenTR5

-- 
Chuck Arnold
trhouse at greenapple.com
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot

From buja at insightbb.com  Mon Oct 29 15:50:06 2007
From: buja at insightbb.com (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 17:50:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
In-Reply-To: <mailman.27174.1193678294.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <KMEGLPFKHIGBBLAKJPDKAEGPAIAB.buja@insightbb.com>

Randall,
You wrote:
>FWIW, 15" "temporary use" spare tires are readily available for almost
>nothing at any wrecking yard and fit just dandy on stock TR3 wheels.  Leave
>lots of room in the tire well for other spare parts.

What a great idea!  I've got a TR6 that will need a new set of tires next
spring and never even considered doing this.  Most of these spares have
never even touched the ground and have lived a sheltered life out of the sun
and weather inside the spare tire well.  I'm now seriously thinking of
having one mounted on a TR6 wheel.  Do you think they will fit on a 5-1/2J
rim or is that too wide?

Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Oct 29 17:16:34 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 20:16:34 EDT
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
Message-ID: <d54.180e3d4b.3457d1e2@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/29/2007 10:54:47 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

FWIW,  15" "temporary use" spare tires are readily available for almost
nothing at  any wrecking yard and fit just dandy on stock TR3 wheels.  Leave
lots  of room in the tire well for other spare parts.



When I bought my 3A I looked in the spare well and low and behold  what was 
in there had to be the first temporary use spare.  It is 5" wide  at the tread 
and is on a brand new looking 3 wheel.  The tire looks like it  has never seen 
the road.  It is a bias ply.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Oct 29 17:35:20 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 20:35:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: [Fot] Just Sick - car stolen
In-Reply-To: <C34BC5BC.1CAB%trhouse@greenapple.com>
References: <8cbd782d0710291506i7942f068w6850ed865224c5e@mail.gmail.com>
	<C34BC5BC.1CAB%trhouse@greenapple.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c81a8c$ced94bf0$210110ac@bobspc>

Geeze Tom that sure sucks but the question is ...why? What are they going to
do with something so recognizable other then  part it out for their race
car? It's not like they can drive it around anywhere.

Here's hoping you get it back.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tom Householder
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 6:16 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] FW: [Fot] Just Sick - car stolen

----------
From: "Chuck Arnold" <triosan at gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:06:13 -0700
To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Just Sick - car stolen

Came home from a 5 day trip to find only the remnants of the smashed
receiver lock where my trailer, containing my TR250 race car, was when I
left.  Hoped like hell it had been impounded for parking too long in a city
lot [I live on a houseboat and the trailer lives in the lot where I park].
No such luck.  Police report filed, insurance claim in.

Information:  Trailer was a white 16x7 Road force.  No exterior markings.
Car: BRG #444 TR5.  Accusump and dual master cylinders under hood.  Battery
and cell in rear.  Full cage.   Stainless lines to the injectors.  Mallory
distributor.  Fabricated dash.  No speedo.  4 speed, no OD.

Photos at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/StolenTR5

--
Chuck Arnold
trhouse at greenapple.com
Fot mailing list
Fot at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
_______________________________________________
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 10/28/2007
1:58 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 10/28/2007
1:58 PM

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Mon Oct 29 17:37:37 2007
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 17:37:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 185x70x15 Tires
Message-ID: <514922.60046.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

AM trying to locate source for 185 x 70 x 15 black wall radial tires for the 5.5" alloy rims that will be supporting my reworked TR2.  The reason for this size is it almost exactly matches the diameter of the original 155/165's used on these cars  (25.2").  I have tried the web sites for Firestone, Kuhmos, Vredensteins, Coker, BF Goodrich, Michelin (they have one, XWX, but it is $301.00 each!), and Bridgestone and have not had much luck.  Lots of 65 profile tires but not anything I found in 70 series.
  Dan


Planning & Development Services
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Mon Oct 29 18:09:23 2007
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 18:09:23
Subject: [TR] List message limits?
Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20071029180923.1e7743e6@pop.west.cox.net>

I have tried, without success to send a plain text message (no different
really than this message other it is longer), with no attachments or
trailers, just plain text, to the list.  These shorter messages like this
one, seem to come through with no problems.  Is there a limitation on the
content amount or certain phrases or characters in the subject perhaps? The
message in question isn't particularly long (total email file size is 4K or
under)  I have tried about 4 times now and I have yet to see it posted -
hopefully, they haven't just been bouncing around and in another week
you'll get all four posts on both lists :-) 

But it does have me a bit puzzled -

Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San Diego)

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Oct 29 18:25:27 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 19:25:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] "59 TR3 for sale.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W427C89D50B1B0AFFDCE62CE5910@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20071030022349.C72351879C8@autox.team.net>

GN Taggert Jr   
9080 Glen Arbor Rd
Ben Lomond, CA 95005  

(831) 336-2410



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom
white
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 9:38 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] "59 TR3 for sale.

At the gas station a guy in a Caddy asked if I wanted to buy another TR.  He
has a "59 TR3 that has sat in his driveway for years.  I have not seen it
but
he says it will run.  He thinks he wants $5,000.   His number is
831-336-2410.
His name is Tag.  You can say you got the information from Tom on the
Triumphs list.


Best regards,
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!  Play Star Shuffle:  the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1098 - Release Date: 10/29/2007
9:28 AM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1098 - Release Date: 10/29/2007
9:28 AM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 29 20:16:53 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 19:16:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] List message limits?
In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20071029180923.1e7743e6@pop.west.cox.net>
Message-ID: <20071030021653.YHVZ26097.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> Is there a limitation on the 
> content amount or certain phrases or characters in the 
> subject perhaps?

Barry, I don't believe there is a content filter as such (except for must be
7-bit ASCII), but based on comments that MJB made on another list; I believe
the message size limit is only 3K bytes.

Try breaking it in two pieces.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 29 20:33:57 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 19:33:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] Availability of 165R15 Tyres
In-Reply-To: <KMEGLPFKHIGBBLAKJPDKAEGPAIAB.buja@insightbb.com>
Message-ID: <20071030023356.RDBF29317.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> Do you think they [15" temporary spare] will fit on a 
> 5-1/2J rim or is that too wide?

I don't know, couldn't find any specifications.  But even the stock 3.5 TR3
rim looked pretty wide for that tire, so I doubt it would fit on a 5.5.

It's a common bolt circle though, so you might be able to find a temporary
spare already on a wheel that would fit.  I thought I had found one, but it
hit the calipers on the front so I had to change the wheel.

Randall

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Oct 29 19:37:02 2007
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 22:37:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TRiumph 2000
In-Reply-To: <BAY131-W4497ED6E49025B06802E8D2910@phx.gbl>
References: <c4c.2099e92c.34552dae@aol.com>
	<BAY131-W4011B7A829E3F511588365D2910@phx.gbl>
	<BAY131-W4497ED6E49025B06802E8D2910@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8C9E8B4E356C8BF-F34-2B4E@FWM-M39.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Todd Bermudez <red_tr250 at hotmail.com>

OK, so officially have the TRiumph bug...well, maybe about 10 cars ago, 
but I
think I have it even more??

Anyone out there have a Triumph 2000 that's in need of some attention 
that
they would part with?  I'd prefer a '60's model MKI /w a 4-speed, but I 
guess
here in the states, ya' gotta take what ya' can get!

==AM==
Check out item number 280161923128 on eBay; it a "completed auction" on 
which there were no bidders. The car is in Tennessee and looks decent.


--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
http://mail.aol.com

From dorpaul at negia.net  Mon Oct 29 20:17:35 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 23:17:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] doing away w/ sealer plates?
Message-ID: <002201c81aa3$6c30ad60$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I've also noticed something else on my TR3.  On my car both 'bottoms' of the
front fenders were rusted out.  While this area is notorius for this, I think
I see a major contributing reason:  much of the rain which lands ontop of the
bonnet eventually rolls into the fender 'edges/troughs' and some travels
towards the rear of the car via these 'troughs' dumping water onto the
upperside of these front fender bottoms rusting them big time.
    I have cut out these rusted bottoms and do not plan to replace them and
hope that this new ventilation will go along way towards solving part of the
rust issue.  However, the concession I'll have to make is that the 'cavity'
created by this bottom, the fender above it and one one side being sealed by
the A-post and the other side being semi-sealed by the sealer plate (and
rubber strip).  This 'cavity' on my car will be filled with cold-road-moisture
blown air.  This is the exact same situation if you removed your sealer plate.
Having never driven a Triumph, I have to wonder what it's like when you drive
without sealer plates?  I mean technically, all the cold-moist-air is still on
the outside of the footwell side, isin't it?
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey- 60 TR3A

From sagreenwood at earthlink.net  Mon Oct 29 22:56:06 2007
From: sagreenwood at earthlink.net (Stuart Greenwood)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 22:56:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR8 for sale
Message-ID: <410-22007102305566545@earthlink.net>

1980 TR8 roadster. 49 State carburetted engine. Midas gold exterior with tan check interior.  Owned since 1994. 61,000 miles. VIN # TPVDV8AT209916. Maintained in good condition. Unmolested and original specification. Please contact me for details.
$5750 obo. 


sagreenwood at earthlink.net
San Diego
71 Spitfire Mk IV, 71 Stag Mk I, 80 TR8 Federal

From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Oct 30 01:24:30 2007
From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:24:30 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] MG List
In-Reply-To: <410-22007102305566545@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <744613.88364.qm@web27401.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi Listers,
  I have committed the cardinal sin amongst Triumph afficionados.... I bought an MGB..sorry, will I ever be forgiven? 
  Does anyone know if MG fans have a similar list to ours and how to access it?
  Regards,
  Chris



       
---------------------------------
 For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.

From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Oct 30 01:25:36 2007
From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:25:36 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] MG List
In-Reply-To: <410-22007102305566545@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <160848.41828.qm@web27411.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi Listers,
  I have committed the cardinal sin amongst Triumph afficionados.... I bought an MGB..sorry, will I ever be forgiven? 
  Does anyone know if MG fans have a similar list to ours and how to access it?
  Regards,
  Chris



       
---------------------------------
 For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.

From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Oct 30 01:27:01 2007
From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:27:01 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] MG List
In-Reply-To: <410-22007102305566545@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <552002.52215.qm@web27412.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi Listers,
  I have committed the cardinal sin amongst Triumph afficionados.... I bought an MGB..sorry, will I ever be forgiven? 
  Does anyone know if MG fans have a similar list to ours and how to access it?
  Regards,
  Chris



       
---------------------------------
 For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.

From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Oct 30 01:28:03 2007
From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:28:03 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] MG List
In-Reply-To: <410-22007102305566545@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <526158.78699.qm@web27409.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi Listers,
  I have committed the cardinal sin amongst Triumph afficionados.... I bought an MGB..sorry, will I ever be forgiven? 
  Does anyone know if MG fans have a similar list to ours and how to access it?
  Regards,
  Chris



       
---------------------------------
 For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Tue Oct 30 02:47:04 2007
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 10:47:04 +0100
Subject: [TR] MG List
In-Reply-To: <526158.78699.qm@web27409.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <410-22007102305566545@earthlink.net>
	<526158.78699.qm@web27409.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <011401c81ad9$d3f58ed0$7be0ac70$@com>

Chris, if you promise me, not to send each message four times to the MG
list, I'll tell you that you just have to send the words ' subscribe mgs' in
the body of a mail to majordomo at autox.team.net.

Best luck.

Eric
http://brits-n-pieces.com

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag
von Chris Buckley
Gesendet: Dienstag, 30. Oktober 2007 09:28
An: triumphs at autox.team.net
Betreff: [TR] MG List

Hi Listers,
  I have committed the cardinal sin amongst Triumph afficionados.... I
bought an MGB..sorry, will I ever be forgiven?
  Does anyone know if MG fans have a similar list to ours and how to access
it?
  Regards,
  Chris

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Tue Oct 30 04:21:50 2007
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 04:21:50
Subject: [TR] Naturally, now the message appears!!!
Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20071030042150.18f78e46@pop.west.cox.net>

Liters
I apologies in advance but it I just saw the first message about my
miss/backfire I posted almost a week ago appear - right AFTER I post a
message about it not appearing-
Sometimes I wonder if the Internet gods are laughing at me :-)
I now fear that you will see it several more times - just delete the
others, and again I apologize for the multiple posts.
I was just so happy to have the car running normally again!
Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San Diego)

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Oct 30 06:03:48 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 13:03:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] Dorothy Deen, American British Car Legend, 1922-2007
Message-ID: <103020071303.1420.47272BB4000DE8C50000058C22070229339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

I had just reread the Rainbow/Doretti story in The Vintage Triumph before seeing this.  Dorothy was apparently responsible for the logo on the Doretti cars.  It's a shame that the production of these cars was cut short.  I think they could have been very popular.

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>
> American British Car Legend Dies
> Dorothy Deen, March 28, 1922 - October 23, 2007
> 
> Oceanside California, October 23, 2007.
> As raging wildfires threatened her Southern California home, Dorothy Deen
> Sitz died in a nearby Oceanside hospital after a long illness. The vivacious
> blonde Deen was best known for the Doretti sports car, a line of sports car
> accessories of the same name and for importing Triumph Sports cars for the
> Western United States. A darling of the local and automotive press, she was
> a common fixture at races and promoting the sports cars she sold.
> 
> -more-
> 
> The complete text of the Press Release and a photograph of Dorothy Deen and
> a TR3A is available for review on "The Triumph Forum" at
> http://www.vtr.org/forum/index.php/topic,210.0.html.  
> 
> Thank you,
> Blake J. Discher, President
> Vintage Triumph Register
> _______________________________________________
> pethier at comcast.net
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From trlist01 at canleyworks.com  Tue Oct 30 07:11:39 2007
From: trlist01 at canleyworks.com (Mark Gendron)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 07:11:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TRiumph 2000
In-Reply-To: <8C9E8B4E356C8BF-F34-2B4E@FWM-M39.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <NCBBLLALCIHKNLMAJIBKOELMJMAB.trlist01@canleyworks.com>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Todd Bermudez <red_tr250 at hotmail.com>
> 
> Anyone out there have a Triumph 2000 that's in need of some 
> attention that they would part with?  I'd prefer a '60's model 
> MKI /w a 4-speed, but I guess here in the states, ya' gotta 
> take what ya' can get!

My grandfather bought a TR2000 MK1 from Cleveland Jaguar 
in 1966 or 1967, to replace his traditional Austin. He had a 
fair amount of trouble with it. One (very) big item was that 
the rear suspension mounting broke away from the chassis on at 
least two occasions. Apparently this was a common problem with 
the early model. I don't know whether Triumph devised a fix for 
this, but you might want to check into it before purchasing one 
of these vehicles. 

-Mark

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 30 07:38:20 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 14:38:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] Comments solicited.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W297AFB1D842842C5DDBE3DE5920@phx.gbl>

My driver's door has an elongated depression around the door handle from being
closed too hard by the handle.  This area has been repaired before and
reappears.  I am thinking I could cut a hole in a 1 x 4 board to go over the
inside of the handle and press it against the door skin until it goes
straight.  Then I could screw the ends of the board to the door frame for a
permanent fix.

Any comments are appreciated.

Best regards,
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last.  Get it
now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971
033

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Tue Oct 30 07:45:39 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 07:45:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Dorothy Deen, American British Car Legend, 1922-2007
In-Reply-To: <103020071303.1420.47272BB4000DE8C50000058C22070229339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <103020071303.1420.47272BB4000DE8C50000058C22070229339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A401A725419D413D9015A699A46AC52C@GeoPC>

Indeed, the car was named after her (in Italian).

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dorothy Deen, American British Car Legend, 1922-2007


>... Dorothy was apparently responsible for the logo on the Doretti cars...

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 30 09:05:14 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:05:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] doing away w/ sealer plates?
In-Reply-To: <002201c81aa3$6c30ad60$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20071030150514.QXFH10548.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> I mean technically, all the cold-moist-air is still on the outside 
> of the footwell side, isin't it?

Might be different on the later bodies, but on the pre-60K ones, that cold
air blows right into your lap.

Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Tue Oct 30 08:05:46 2007
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:05:46 -0000
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TRiumph 2000
References: <NCBBLLALCIHKNLMAJIBKOELMJMAB.trlist01@canleyworks.com>
Message-ID: <013101c81b06$5a4e6520$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Mark Gendron wrote:
> My grandfather bought a TR2000 MK1 from Cleveland Jaguar
> in 1966 or 1967, to replace his traditional Austin. He had a
> fair amount of trouble with it. One (very) big item was that
> the rear suspension mounting broke away from the chassis on at
> least two occasions. Apparently this was a common problem with
> the early model. I don't know whether Triumph devised a fix for
> this, but you might want to check into it before purchasing one
> of these vehicles.

Well, that's interesting. After all my years playing with the 'Big Triumph', 
I've never come across that problem. Not to say it doesn't or couldn't 
happen but it's a new one to me. As far as the back-end driveline is 
concerned, diff nose pieces can be troublesome and there's a fix for those 
now but the strength of the rear 'A' frame is pretty formidable. That said, 
being a detachable box section bolted to the body, you have to be wary for 
corrosion in cars today. Such an animal would not be difficult for a 
competent sheet metal worker to fabricate but their positioning is critical 
as the rear axle geometry is depends very much on them being bolted up in 
the right place.
As far as torsional rigidity of the body is concerned, all 2000's and 2500's 
have exceptionally rigid structures. For info, Pressed Steel who made the 
body calculated it needed 6500lbs/ft of torque to twist the body one degree.

Jonmac 

From auprichard at comcast.net  Tue Oct 30 08:14:49 2007
From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:14:49 +0000
Subject: [TR] Too much crack?
Message-ID: <103020071514.4835.47274A6900088CC8000012E322007623020B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net>

Whem a TR3 gets hit in front the forces are transmitted back in a splaying-like manner, pushing the inner and out fenders up and out- hence the situation you describe.  (By the way, I am assuming everything back from the front fenders are OK - door gaps and the like).

I have just finished the front of my TR3 which was exactly as you describe:  attempts at pulling the fenders in by tightening the apron succeeded only in pulling out the lips of the apron and fenders themselves.

I think you have two choices - dictated largely by aesthetics and what you can live with.  If you have the time, patience and wherewithall, I'd suggest you remove the outer fenders and work with the inner fenders to pull them in and down.  Hope this helps (I have lots of photos if you're interested)

Andrew Uprichard
On a business trip to Israel - yet to see a TR

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Paul Dorsey" <dorpaul at negia.net> 

> I needed humbling. When I tentatively laid my TR3A's bonnet ontop of it's 
> compartment, I saw huge side cracks between the bonnet and outer fenders! On 
> the front of one of the front fenders in the area where the front bumper, it 
> lacks 5/8", (surely this is too much?) I haven't attached the TR3A apron yet- 
> (would the apron reduce these gaps about 1/2" on each side?) Is this 
> tolerable or should I remove the fenders again? 
> 
> One finicky place on both side's is where the scuttle's guttering meets 
> the outer fender's top trough. In both cases, I was successful in getting the 
> fender's trough on the inside and closest to the middle of the engine 
> compartment. 
> One front fender is also 1/4" or so too high. Tolerable for a daily 
> driver never wrecked or disassembeled before? 
> 
> Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A 
> _______________________________________________ 
> auprichard at comcast.net 
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org 
> 
> Triumphs mailing list 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

From auprichard at comcast.net  Tue Oct 30 08:18:13 2007
From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:18:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] Comments solicited.
Message-ID: <103020071518.10474.47274B3500051B96000028EA22007623020B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net>

Sounds very creative, but isn't it going to need paintwork regardless of how well the fix works? 

Andrew Uprichard

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> 

> My driver's door has an elongated depression around the door handle from being 
> closed too hard by the handle. This area has been repaired before and 
> reappears. I am thinking I could cut a hole in a 1 x 4 board to go over the 
> inside of the handle and press it against the door skin until it goes 
> straight. Then I could screw the ends of the board to the door frame for a 
> permanent fix. 
> 
> Any comments are appreciated. 
> 
> Best regards, 
> Tom 
> _________________________________________________________________ 
> Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last. Get it 
> now. 
> http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971 
> 033 
> _______________________________________________ 
> auprichard at comcast.net 
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org 
> 
> Triumphs mailing list 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Oct 30 08:26:55 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:26:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] Dorothy Deen, American British Car Legend, 1922-2007
Message-ID: <103020071526.27065.47274D3F00099A97000069B922070229339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" <ahwahnee at cybertrails.com>
> Indeed, the car was named after her (in Italian).

I am told that she and her father were already using the Doretti name on their line of Cal Specialties accessories in the USA.  The badge on the cars was derived from the logo that Dorothy drew up for Cal Specialties.  She apparently thought the tie-in would be good for business and sold the rights to the name to Swallow for a buck.  I am also told that Dorothy had a lot of input into the design of the car.

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <pethier at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Dorothy Deen, American British Car Legend, 1922-2007
> 
> 
> >... Dorothy was apparently responsible for the logo on the Doretti cars...

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Oct 30 08:51:07 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:51:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Comments solicited.
References: <BAY110-W297AFB1D842842C5DDBE3DE5920@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003301c81b0c$afd6b320$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

I would use something other than a board for a "perminant" fix.  Wood has a
nasty habit of decaying, rotting, molding and other undesirable things.

Joe C.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 7:38 AM
Subject: [TR] Comments solicited.


> My driver's door has an elongated depression around the door handle from
being
> closed too hard by the handle.  This area has been repaired before and
> reappears.  I am thinking I could cut a hole in a 1 x 4 board to go over
the
> inside of the handle and press it against the door skin until it goes
> straight.  Then I could screw the ends of the board to the door frame for
a
> permanent fix.
>
> Any comments are appreciated.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last.  Get
it
> now.
>
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971
> 033
> _______________________________________________
> spitlist at cox.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 30 08:46:59 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:46:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] Comments solicited.
In-Reply-To: <103020071518.10474.47274B3500051B96000028EA22007623020B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net>
References: <103020071518.10474.47274B3500051B96000028EA22007623020B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W538A046CEA35A167EB871E5920@phx.gbl>

>Sounds very creative, but isn't it going to need paintwork regardless of how
well the fix works?

No, the paint is not damaged and it flexes with the door skin.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 30 08:50:46 2007
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:50:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] Comments solicited.
In-Reply-To: <003301c81b0c$afd6b320$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
References: <BAY110-W297AFB1D842842C5DDBE3DE5920@phx.gbl>
	<003301c81b0c$afd6b320$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W117C2B971EB7853A0CD509E5920@phx.gbl>

> I would use something other than a board for a "perminant" fix.  Wood has a
> nasty habit of decaying, rotting, molding and other undesirable things.

Yes, that is why Standard Motor Co. used it for the door frame.  Actually I
chose wood because it will flex a little and probably prevent creasing around
the repair.  It can also be mounted to the original door frame with out the
need for welding that would damage the paint.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Oct 30 09:13:57 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 09:13:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Comments solicited.
References: <BAY110-W297AFB1D842842C5DDBE3DE5920@phx.gbl>
	<003301c81b0c$afd6b320$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
	<BAY110-W117C2B971EB7853A0CD509E5920@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <005601c81b0f$e12de580$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Ok, I see your point (having once owned a 52 MGTD).  Be sure then to use a
wood that is best at avoiding all the foibles that you would normally
encounter.  Ash is such a wood.

Joe
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: tom white
  To: Joe Curry ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 8:50 AM
  Subject: RE: [TR] Comments solicited.


  > I would use something other than a board for a "perminant" fix. Wood has
a
  > nasty habit of decaying, rotting, molding and other undesirable things.

  Yes, that is why Standard Motor Co. used it for the door frame.  Actually I
chose wood because it will flex a little and probably prevent creasing around
the repair.  It can also be mounted to the original door frame with out the
need for welding that would damage the paint.

  Best regards,
  Tom




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You! Get 'em!

From trhouse at greenapple.com  Sat Oct 27 20:01:20 2007
From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 22:01:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dorothy Deen, March 28, 1922 - October 23, 2007
Message-ID: <C34965B0.1BE4%trhouse@greenapple.com>

I just recieved this from Jonathan Stien,  Dorothy and Jim were on my mind
this week with the fires . I'd checked the maps to see that they were out of
it all. Sincereley a couple of the finest people I have ever met.

Tom Householder

For Immediate Release
Contact:   Jonathan A. Stein
610/779-9710
610/779-3705 fax
American British Car Legend Dies
Dorothy Deen, March 28, 1922 - October 23, 2007

Oceanside California, October 23, 2007.
As raging wildfires threatened her Southern California home, Dorothy Deen
Sitz died in a nearby Oceanside hospital after a long illness. The vivacious
blonde Deen was best known for the Doretti sports car, a line of sports car
accessories of the same name and for importing Triumph Sports cars for the
Western United States. A darling of the local and automotive press, she was
a common fixture at races and promoting the sports cars she sold.

Born in Hollywood, Calif., to engineer and businessman Arthur Andersen  and
Martha Schultz Andersen, Dorothy grew up in a time when women either stayed
home with children or worked as secretaries and telephone operators. At an
early age, Dorothy Andersen had other ideas.

Her career started as a teenager test driving the Whizzer motor bicycles her
father had redesigned. She graduated to a mail order business selling
gasoline model airplane engines her father also designed and manufactured.
Growing up in Los Angeles, Dorothy had always been interested in cars, but
the interest really took off in 1950 when she took delivery of a brand new
Ivory MG TD, which was followed by several sporty Simcas. Instantly, she was
propelled into a world of rallies, clubs and races. Although her later
business interests prevented her from racing, she and her father often ran
their cars on an abandoned airfield near the Andersen beach house.

The next business venture forever changed Dorothy9s life. Unable to find
high-quality accessories for her MG and her father9s Morgans, the pair
designed and marketed their own wind wings, sun visors, luggage racks, valve
covers in addition to wood and aluminum steering wheels. With backing from
Andersen and in partnership with machinist Paul Bernhardt, Cal Specialties
was born. To make the Cal Specialties line sound more exciting, the partners
took the first three letters of Dorothy9s name, and turned it into the
Italianate  3Doretti.2 .

Through his work with thin-wall steel tubing, Andersen became involved with
the Standard Swallow Company that was building a sports car based on Triumph
TR2 running gear. In partnership with Dorothy, Andersen took on distribution
of the new car in the U.S. and simultaneously picked up Western distribution
rights for Triumph. Not only would Dorothy import the cars, but for a single
dollar she sold the rights to the Doretti name that soon graced the
attractive new two-seater.  After Doretti production ended in 1955, Deen
continued to import Triumphs until the company bought out all distributors
in 1960. She then became the 45th woman in the world to earn her helicopter
pilot9s license and later co-owned and managed an aircraft dealership. She
later returned to UCLA to become a para legal on her intendedbut never
completed--route to becoming an attorney. Along the way she declined Max
Hoffman9s offer of a West Coast BMW distributorship and opted for a life of
retirement and travel with her late husband, Tony Anthony, whom she met when
he sold her that first MG TD sports cars years earlier. She is survived by
automotive historian Jim Sitz, her husband of 16 years.

For more information, contact Jonathan A. Stein, 610/779-9710 or
jonathanastein at aol.com.

7450 Valley View Lane Reading, PA 19606, USA; 610\779-9710 (fax:
610/779-3705); cell: 484/824-2660; jonathanstein at aol.com

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Fri Oct 26 09:56:06 2007
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 11:56:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Some interesting insight on my misfire/backfire problem,
	and good news
Message-ID: <380-220071052615566399@M2W003.mail2web.com>

Listers -
Since the big fires here in San Diego I had a little time off and could
devote some time to figure out what my intermittent miss/backfire was.  I
figured, since we werent in any immediate danger (the fires were basically
burning all around us) I might as well do something to take my mind off of
all the destruction etc.  This was on my daily driver V6 Spitfire (throttle
body FI) that I was going to take to Triumphest in Laughlin, but due to
this several month long, on-going problem, I had to resort to the 1970
Spitfire backup vehicle.
 The problem as it were, was that the car would miss/jerk at random times
while driving around.  One would never know when this would happen, but
usually once a day on some occasions, several times, it would
misfire/backfire.  Usually at speed, more often than not when just
accelerating, but I could never just get it to do it on demand so to speak.
It would do this then drive for many miles before it would happen again.
After going through the entire electrical system, systematically replacing
every component (fuel pump, sensors, injectors, coil, plugs, wires, dist,
modules not necessary in that order, but you name it I replaced it etc),
and after cleaning the air filter, replacing the fuel filter checking the
pump pressure fuel lines blah blah blah, and still having no luck I was at
my wits end.  Then, just after I had replaced the throttle body and was
watching the idle spray I got a misfire (this was the first time I had
actually SEEN it happen, not just felt it).  This got me thinking about the
number three plug that looked just a little different than all the rest,
since it was on the intake log of that bank, and I decided to check the
valves - Sure enough, the exhaust valve had basically no clearance, and the
intake was minimal, probably around .006-8 thou.  EUEKA!!!  Problem solved!
It didnt show up in the compression check because there was just enough
valve closure so that at cranking speed I still had compression (a little
low, but not out of the ordinary) and apparently would have to bounce just
enough, and at the right time, to ignite the incoming mixture and shoot the
flame back up the intake track  which is what I saw.

As usual, I figured it was electrical because it was so random, but it just
goes to show you, not all random problems are electrical or fuel related -
they CAN be mechanical!  Frustrating to say the least, but sure nice to
have the problem fixed.

So now I have my Spitfire back  (I ran in to the house, after I discovered
the problem, and did the little victory dance that my wife found most
amusing).
The fires are becoming more under control, and most people are getting back
to their homes, at least those that have homes to return to  and things
are slowly returning to normal!

So I had my victory brew (a Carl Strauss Amber Lager) whilst cleaning the
car of ash and soot,  (yeah, it even gets inside the garage) and am now
able to install the new molded carpeting I had purchased but was not ready,
or felt like installing, and can start doing the fun stuff for the
vehicles!!

Barry Schwartz
San Diego (La Mesa) CA


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From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Tue Oct 30 10:31:56 2007
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 13:31:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Comments solicited.
References: <BAY110-W297AFB1D842842C5DDBE3DE5920@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001801c81b1a$ca928a00$2c29c40a@mde.state.md.us>

Sounds like an excellent application.

I've long loved wood as a car bumper.  It flexes and springs back, without 
damage.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 10:38 AM
Subject: [TR] Comments solicited.


> My driver's door has an elongated depression around the door handle from 
> being
> closed too hard by the handle.  This area has been repaired before and
> reappears.  I am thinking I could cut a hole in a 1 x 4 board to go over 
> the
> inside of the handle and press it against the door skin until it goes
> straight.  Then I could screw the ends of the board to the door frame for 
> a
> permanent fix.

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Oct 30 10:40:44 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 17:40:44 +0000
Subject: [TR] Comments solicited.
Message-ID: <103020071740.24429.47276C9C0005FCC000005F6D22058844849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Nolan" <foxtrapper at aceweb.com>
> Sounds like an excellent application.
> 
> I've long loved wood as a car bumper.  It flexes and springs back, without 
> damage.

Back in my ice-racing days, the rules were 
stock bumper
wood bumper
or
no bumper.

Non-stock metal bumpers were not allowed.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From william.f.daehler at delphi.com  Tue Oct 30 14:46:05 2007
From: william.f.daehler at delphi.com (Daehler, William F)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 16:46:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel injection:  Thoughts and Dreams
Message-ID: <FC5F7CB48A86D046B265B989D2FD435B02B7C3E1@uswimke-ex01.mil.acr.gmeds.com>

I was following the discussion last month about TBI fuel injection.  It
seemed like a couple of guys on this list, actually have done the
conversion, and it has worked with measurable success.  Made for great
reading.

So I clicked around, followed the links, and saw a picture that made me
almost jump out my skin.  Hey,  we used to build that ECM right here in
Milwaukee in my department!  About 20 years ago.  So many models, styles
types, broadcast codes, fuel moding chips, memory chips; the technology
constantly was evolving.  TBI, MFI, SFI, PFI, alphabet fuel injector
soup.

You would think we made an ECM somewhere along the line that would be an
ideal candidate for the TR4 in line four banger. Hmm lets see, nope.
Hmm, lets give it some more thought.   How about the 83 Buick Skylark,
2.5 litre Iron Duke.  Nope, the single carburetor was replaced with a
single throttle body.  Oh,  maybe I understand the problem, the TR4
needs a controller that can fire two fuel injectors.  And the order is
1,3,4,2.   What about some exotic GM L4 like Opel or Holden?


I'm going to now paste in the following FAQ that I cut from from the
Sidedraft website:

Can I convert my TR4A or dual carbed MGB?

The parts will fit the carbs nicely however the rub is that the firing
order and manifold layout would deliver an uneven fuel mix if trying to
use the GM ECM. Sorry to say that at present the GM TBI computer is not
compatible with most dual carbed British 4 cylinder engines. We are
working on this issue and expect to resolve it soon. Presently it will
work perfectly on the same engines when using a single carb. Stay tuned-
this may soon change! (Oct 07)


So fellow listers, what do you think?  Should we convert now to fuel
injection,  or wait until aftermarket parts start to appear for direct
injection?  Bio mass?  Mr. Fusion retrofit kit?




William F. Daehler
Sr. Process Engr. MKE
Delphi Electronics & Safety




*****************************************************************************
***********

Note:  If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an
employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received
this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the
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From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Oct 30 15:08:19 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:08:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel injection:  Thoughts and Dreams
References: <FC5F7CB48A86D046B265B989D2FD435B02B7C3E1@uswimke-ex01.mil.acr.gmeds.com>
Message-ID: <007d01c81b41$61afe240$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Here is what I did on one of my Spits.  It's design and application would
easily adapt to one of the wetliner engines using the same ECU and a larger
throttle body.  You would have to construct a manifold specific to that
application but that isn't really a huge obstacle for a fabricator.
http://members.cox.net/spitlist/EFI.htm

Joe C.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Daehler, William F" <william.f.daehler at delphi.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 2:46 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel injection: Thoughts and Dreams


> I was following the discussion last month about TBI fuel injection.  It
> seemed like a couple of guys on this list, actually have done the
> conversion, and it has worked with measurable success.  Made for great
> reading.
>
> So I clicked around, followed the links, and saw a picture that made me
> almost jump out my skin.  Hey,  we used to build that ECM right here in
> Milwaukee in my department!  About 20 years ago.  So many models, styles
> types, broadcast codes, fuel moding chips, memory chips; the technology
> constantly was evolving.  TBI, MFI, SFI, PFI, alphabet fuel injector
> soup.
>
> You would think we made an ECM somewhere along the line that would be an
> ideal candidate for the TR4 in line four banger. Hmm lets see, nope.
> Hmm, lets give it some more thought.   How about the 83 Buick Skylark,
> 2.5 litre Iron Duke.  Nope, the single carburetor was replaced with a
> single throttle body.  Oh,  maybe I understand the problem, the TR4
> needs a controller that can fire two fuel injectors.  And the order is
> 1,3,4,2.   What about some exotic GM L4 like Opel or Holden?
>
>
> I'm going to now paste in the following FAQ that I cut from from the
> Sidedraft website:
>
> Can I convert my TR4A or dual carbed MGB?
>
> The parts will fit the carbs nicely however the rub is that the firing
> order and manifold layout would deliver an uneven fuel mix if trying to
> use the GM ECM. Sorry to say that at present the GM TBI computer is not
> compatible with most dual carbed British 4 cylinder engines. We are
> working on this issue and expect to resolve it soon. Presently it will
> work perfectly on the same engines when using a single carb. Stay tuned-
> this may soon change! (Oct 07)
>
>
> So fellow listers, what do you think?  Should we convert now to fuel
> injection,  or wait until aftermarket parts start to appear for direct
> injection?  Bio mass?  Mr. Fusion retrofit kit?
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Oct 30 16:16:25 2007
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 23:16:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] doing away w/ sealer plates?
Message-ID: <103020072316.18947.4727BB490008AE2600004A0322165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

> > I mean technically, all the cold-moist-air is still on the outside 
> > of the footwell side, isin't it? 
> 
> Might be different on the later bodies, but on the pre-60K ones, that cold 
> air blows right into your lap. 
> 
> Randall 

AHAH!  So THAT finally explains the sand that covers my trousers after I've driven the car!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Oct 30 18:20:13 2007
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 21:20:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Some interesting insight on my misfire/backfire  problem,
 and good news
In-Reply-To: <380-220071052615566399@M2W003.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <4727A00D.1121.223F9@localhost>

On 26 Oct 2007 at 11:56, v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote:

> the exhaust valve had basically no clearance, and the
> intake was minimal, probably around .006-8 thou.  EUEKA!!!

"EUEKA"?  Maynard G Krebs would have said "EUOPA!!!"

But all seriousness aside, this prompts a few thoughts.  On my GT6+ 
the idle smoothness and exhaust cleanliness as measured by my nose 
have always been sensitive to valve clearance.  An adjustment 
seemingly less than .001" can make a difference.  I can measure a 
valve as being too loose for the .009" feeler and too tight for the 
.011", but if I go one step further and apply careful "digital" 
judgment and tweak accordingly, the idle improves.  I don't know what 
sort of cam it has but I've never seen a car so senstive to tiny 
valve adjustment.  Could someone tell me, is this typical of the TR 
2l engine?  Or perhaps of a non-stock cam?

The second thought is that with today's engines valve adjustment is a 
disappearing art, soon to be forgotten.  We've progressed through 
30,000+ mile intervals for OHC engines for which only dealers bought 
the shim sets to no maintanence at all save oil changes.  I posted a 
few weeks ago about the 48-State Tour in a Spitfire in which the 
driver/author described all his mixture tweaking and plug swapping, 
etc., but never mentioned valve adjustments though 12,000 miles.  Do 
we just forget about them now until some email note or event reminds 
us?  (And then we feel guilty and hope we haven't burned anything for 
having run too long with one slightly overtight?)

Glad you found your problem!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.13/1099 - Release Date: 10/30/2007 10:06 AM

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Tue Oct 30 18:58:42 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 21:58:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Article: "In Search of the Swallow" - The Doretti in Design
Message-ID: <004c01c81b61$91f32d70$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a>

"In Search of the Swallow"
'The Doretti in Design'

Thirty years of digging though a mired design history of the Swallow Doretti
the chronology of events align and the whole story unfolds. The Doretti
adorned with initial design awards and sales success was  run-a- muck in
part by a suggested conflictive interest clause relative to Swallow Coach
Builder's prior ownership.

Recorded histories fall short in satisfactorily convincing one of its
origin. Primarily due to the rush in which the Doretti and the TR2 get on
line to fill the appetite of the USA and World market for sports cars.

Sports car fever was jump started by Ferrari's introduction and racing
success with the 1948 166mm Bachetta (one of the first being shipped to
Southern California). Adding to the Doretti confusion is the secret
involvement Sir John Black collaborating in its development and sidestepping
an initial commitment to Willy's to distribute the TR2 line.

-more-

Read the entire article written by T.R. Householder, the Vintage Triumph
Register's Swallow Doretti vehicle consultant in VTR's "The Triumph Forum."
Included is a photo of Dorothy Deen in the first Swallow Doretti.  The
direct link:
http://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/forum/index.php/topic,213.0.html.

From dorpaul at negia.net  Tue Oct 30 19:29:37 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 22:29:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3: doing away w/ sealer plates?
References: <103020072316.18947.4727BB490008AE2600004A0322165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004601c81b65$e3787bb0$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Is this added ventilation coming from that 2" hole on both sides, that is on 
each side footwell panel and above you knee)?  The one that allows access to 
the rearmost fender to scuttle bolt?

'never driven my TR3',
Paul Dorsey   60 TR3

> > I mean technically, all the cold-moist-air is still on the outside
> > of the footwell side, isin't it?
>
> Might be different on the later bodies, but on the pre-60K ones, that cold
> air blows right into your lap.
>
> Randall

AHAH!  So THAT finally explains the sand that covers my trousers after I've 
driven the car!

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Oct 30 10:55:20 2007
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 10:55:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Naturally, now the message appears!!!
In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20071030042150.18f78e46@pop.west.cox.net>
References: <3.0.4.16.20071030042150.18f78e46@pop.west.cox.net>
Message-ID: <47277008.4080903@bradakis.com>

Barry Schwartz wrote:

>I apologies in advance but it I just saw the first message about my
>miss/backfire I posted almost a week ago appear - right AFTER I post a
>message about it not appearing-
>  
>
Believe it or not, I don't spend every waking moment doing Team.Net
administration, though it seems like it to me sometimes ;-)

It can take some time -  hours, days, maybe a week before I can get to
approving messages that have been held back for various reasons,
such as exceeding the size limit.  Of course, if everyone on all the
lists sent in maybe 5.95 per year for each of their subscriptions,
then I probably WOULD spend all my time working on Team.Net!
And no doubt there would be more features on the web
pages at http://www.team.net/the-local and it would be more
up to date, a nicer forum interface, etc.

At the moment, though, I get to stuff when I can.

mjb.

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Tue Oct 30 20:30:36 2007
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 23:30:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] Comments solicited.
Message-ID: <d19.146da032.345950dc@aol.com>

My driver's door has an elongated depression around the door handle  from 
being
closed too hard by the handle
Tom
it probable that the metal has "stretched". once stretched it will not  
return to its original shape. to repair it one must shrink it by heating and  
cooling quickly. this always needs painting after. I guess the question is how  
much does it bother you?
Frank Fisher



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From dorpaul at negia.net  Tue Oct 30 20:56:56 2007
From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 23:56:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] wiring needed for my pos. ground car!
Message-ID: <025201c81b72$1649b4d0$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Thru eBay, I bought Bob Danielson's new Spal 185 Fan Harness and relay (w/o
temp sensor).  Bob sold his because he already had the harness.  He also told
me that instructions for it were at:
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automated/tech_sheets/FRH-185FH-195FH.pdf
  I studyed the 'single fan wiring diagram' found on the first diagram on the
second page of the above link.  I did this because I don't have immediate
plans for running anything but a toggle switch to turn on and off the 'pusher'
electric fan since this fan will be in addition to the OEM engine fan.

  My big question is how to wire it so that I can use it on my positive ground
car.  When I called the number shown for Spal Technical Help the guy was also
clueless?  That's weird, he even suggested that I might be able to run it
straight from the switch.  Even I knew that it needs a relay instead of doing
this!

  The one thing that I do know after testing it out with my car battery is
that the fan's ground (black) must be hooked to the battery's + pole, to get
it to turn the correct direction.

  I'll share one unsuccessful scenario given to me by the Spal guy: (I'll
concede that I proably copied this wrong).  It's adapted from the 'Single Fan
Wiring Diagram' shown above.
      yellow relay wire (14 ga.) goes to battery's negative pole.
      gray relay wire (20 ga.) (could go to a sensor) but I have it just going
to a toggle switch and on to         the battery's positive pole.
      red relay wire (14 ga.) to fan's red wire
      orange relay wire (20 ga.) runs to ignition switch.
      fan's black wire to the TR3's grounding

  Somebody please tell me that I bought the right relay for my positive ground
Triumph!

  Thanks,
  Paul Dorsey 60 TR3

From nogera at worldnet.att.net  Tue Oct 30 21:30:02 2007
From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 23:30:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy
Message-ID: <009c01c81b76$bb6db840$4101a8c0@CARROOM>

   As a Morgan owner I lurk on the TR list for information regarding the TR
engines we share.  A common issue with many Morgan owners is a problem with
front wheel shimmy. Since many TR's use the same 165/15 tires and wheels I
was wondering if TR's suffer from this problem and what solution are
recommended.? 
Note : 72 spoke wire  wheels are new and true. Balance done on the newest
Hunter balancing machine. 

Thanks in advance for any advise 

Bob  

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Oct 30 23:12:37 2007
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 23:12:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] MG List
Message-ID: <47281CD5.5020408@bradakis.com>

http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo


mjb.

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Oct 30 22:35:05 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 23:35:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] wiring needed for my pos. ground car!
In-Reply-To: <025201c81b72$1649b4d0$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20071031063325.662B71879C1@autox.team.net>

It is a direct current fan so why is there any harm in simply running the
black to positive and red to ground?

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
"I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul
Dorsey
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 9:57 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] wiring needed for my pos. ground car!

Thru eBay, I bought Bob Danielson's new Spal 185 Fan Harness and relay (w/o
temp sensor).  Bob sold his because he already had the harness.  He also
told me that instructions for it were at:
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automated/tech_sheets/FRH-185FH-195FH.pdf
  I studyed the 'single fan wiring diagram' found on the first diagram on
the second page of the above link.  I did this because I don't have
immediate plans for running anything but a toggle switch to turn on and off
the 'pusher'
electric fan since this fan will be in addition to the OEM engine fan.

  My big question is how to wire it so that I can use it on my positive
ground car.  When I called the number shown for Spal Technical Help the guy
was also clueless?  That's weird, he even suggested that I might be able to
run it straight from the switch.  Even I knew that it needs a relay instead
of doing this!

  The one thing that I do know after testing it out with my car battery is
that the fan's ground (black) must be hooked to the battery's + pole, to get
it to turn the correct direction.

  I'll share one unsuccessful scenario given to me by the Spal guy: (I'll
concede that I proably copied this wrong).  It's adapted from the 'Single
Fan Wiring Diagram' shown above.
      yellow relay wire (14 ga.) goes to battery's negative pole.
      gray relay wire (20 ga.) (could go to a sensor) but I have it just
going
to a toggle switch and on to         the battery's positive pole.
      red relay wire (14 ga.) to fan's red wire
      orange relay wire (20 ga.) runs to ignition switch.
      fan's black wire to the TR3's grounding

  Somebody please tell me that I bought the right relay for my positive
ground Triumph!

  Thanks,
  Paul Dorsey 60 TR3
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

http://www.team.net/donate

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM
 

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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Oct 30 22:48:23 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 23:48:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Naturally, now the message appears!!!
In-Reply-To: <47277008.4080903@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <20071031064643.349ED1879E8@autox.team.net>

Mark,
You've got my vote, and donation, thanks for the wonderful job you do to
keep this thing running as smoothly as it does.
B
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
"I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark
J. Bradakis
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 11:55 AM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Naturally, now the message appears!!!

Barry Schwartz wrote:

>I apologies in advance but it I just saw the first message about my 
>miss/backfire I posted almost a week ago appear - right AFTER I post a 
>message about it not appearing-
>  
>
Believe it or not, I don't spend every waking moment doing Team.Net
administration, though it seems like it to me sometimes ;-)

It can take some time -  hours, days, maybe a week before I can get to
approving messages that have been held back for various reasons, such as
exceeding the size limit.  Of course, if everyone on all the lists sent in
maybe 5.95 per year for each of their subscriptions, then I probably WOULD
spend all my time working on Team.Net!
And no doubt there would be more features on the web pages at
http://www.team.net/the-local and it would be more up to date, a nicer forum
interface, etc.

At the moment, though, I get to stuff when I can.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

http://www.team.net/donate

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM
 

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6:26 PM

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Oct 31 03:58:48 2007
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 06:58:48 EDT
Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy
Message-ID: <c6a.1ba9b937.3459b9e8@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/30/2007 11:30:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
nogera at worldnet.att.net writes:

Note :  72 spoke wire  wheels are new and true. Balance done on the  newest
Hunter balancing machine. 



Pardon me for asking but who determined "true".  I put new wires  on my TR6 
and in spite of three trips to the owner described "mac daddy" of  Hunter 
balancing machines it was never right.  This machine was so high  tech it served 
coffee.  The problem is that they are balancing the wheels  from a point on the 
wheel that is not the bearing surface when the wheel is  mounted on the car, 
and without knowing anything more I will tell you they do  not have the proper 
mount for wire wheels.  No tire shop does.  
This is the voice of experience talking.  Do not invest another dollar  in 
this shimmy issue without packing them up and sending them off to Hendrix  Wire 
Wheel.  There are others, I happened to use Hendrix (NFI).  This  is not 
cheap, call them and ask.  However, I will tell you this.  In  the long run you 
will spend far more than Hendrix charges chasing this problem  around, and will 
not get it solved.  Do not be tempted by the tire  stores who tell you they can 
do this.  I have tried and every one  failed.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Oct 31 05:15:16 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 08:15:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] wiring needed for my pos. ground car!
In-Reply-To: <025201c81b72$1649b4d0$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <025201c81b72$1649b4d0$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <000d01c81bb7$b49e0880$210110ac@bobspc>

Paul,
Hayden fans can run either way i.e. swapping the ground and positive leads
from the fan. Of course it did turn a pusher fan into a puller. I'd try that
and see what happens.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Paul Dorsey
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 11:57 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] wiring needed for my pos. ground car!

Thru eBay, I bought Bob Danielson's new Spal 185 Fan Harness and relay (w/o
temp sensor).  Bob sold his because he already had the harness.  He also
told me that instructions for it were at:
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automated/tech_sheets/FRH-185FH-195FH.pdf
  I studyed the 'single fan wiring diagram' found on the first diagram on
the second page of the above link.  I did this because I don't have
immediate plans for running anything but a toggle switch to turn on and off
the 'pusher'
electric fan since this fan will be in addition to the OEM engine fan.

  My big question is how to wire it so that I can use it on my positive
ground car.  When I called the number shown for Spal Technical Help the guy
was also clueless?  That's weird, he even suggested that I might be able to
run it straight from the switch.  Even I knew that it needs a relay instead
of doing this!

  The one thing that I do know after testing it out with my car battery is
that the fan's ground (black) must be hooked to the battery's + pole, to get
it to turn the correct direction.

  I'll share one unsuccessful scenario given to me by the Spal guy: (I'll
concede that I proably copied this wrong).  It's adapted from the 'Single
Fan Wiring Diagram' shown above.
      yellow relay wire (14 ga.) goes to battery's negative pole.
      gray relay wire (20 ga.) (could go to a sensor) but I have it just
going
to a toggle switch and on to         the battery's positive pole.
      red relay wire (14 ga.) to fan's red wire
      orange relay wire (20 ga.) runs to ignition switch.
      fan's black wire to the TR3's grounding

  Somebody please tell me that I bought the right relay for my positive
ground Triumph!

  Thanks,
  Paul Dorsey 60 TR3
_______________________________________________
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

http://www.team.net/donate

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Oct 31 05:26:35 2007
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 12:26:35 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel injection:  Thoughts and Dreams
Message-ID: <103120071226.11997.4728747A000C6A4A00002EDD2200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Daehler, William F" <william.f.daehler at delphi.com> 

> So fellow listers, what do you think? Should we convert now to fuel 
> injection, or wait until aftermarket parts start to appear for direct 
> injection? Bio mass? Mr. Fusion retrofit kit? 

Mark Fisher, a member of my local club, does fuel injection work for a living, and did a custom fuel injected set up for a TR4 in our club. That TR4 has been fuel injected for several years and was driven to VTR this year.
If anyone is interested in this, contact me off list for Mark's contact information. 
NFI,
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From aribert.neumann at edag-us.com  Wed Oct 31 06:07:57 2007
From: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com (Aribert Neumann)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 09:07:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] OT?  Replacing Temp spare tires?
Message-ID: <OF2C4E2635.1D6DCD3C-ON85257385.004495B5-85257385.004932A9@edag.de>

Randall has mentioned using a compact temporary/narrow spare tire,
Txxx/xxR15, for use as a spare in a  TR3.    If I remember correctly from a
posting years ago,  Randall mentioned that he picked up a compact spare
(exact vehicle model unknown) at a salvage yard.

I would expect that the temp spare tires have the same dry rot concerns as
regular tires.  Can one buy new replacement temp spare tires?  Do the temp
spare tires mount on an existing wheel (do they have the same style lip)?
Are these tires easy to have dismounted?

From motorcarriage at charter.net  Wed Oct 31 07:55:42 2007
From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 10:55:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop Installation
Message-ID: <00a301c81bce$1be5b130$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571>

Hi Listers,
    I will be attempting to mount the Factory Hardtop that came with my TR6 
for the first time this weekend. I ordered up all the hardware supposedly 
needed as mine was missing most of it. I also got the Fitting instructions 
Booklet reprint (2 pages of text plus 2 of illustrations).  It doesn't seem 
very descript as most of it covers removing soft top, glass and seal 
replacement, trim pieces etc.
   I guess maybe I was expecting a Hardtop Installation for Dummies type 
leaflet. I searched the net in hopes that someone might have a handholding 
type webpage with some pics and a walk through on fitting it properly.

Does anyone know where such info might have been covered online?

I'm hoping to save a little time and make sure it's mounted properly.

Cheers,
Wayne Lee
Douglas,MA
58 TR3
64 TR4
75 TR6 

From cartr4a at ameritech.net  Wed Oct 31 08:13:15 2007
From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 08:13:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Vote for me!
Message-ID: <44705.88141.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi list,
   
  My GT6 was featured on ABC Chicago's "I Love My Car" segment this month.  I believe mine was the first LBC ever featured.  Now it's time to vote for "Car of the Month."  Help!  Give me a vote!
   
  http://abclocal.go.com/wls/story?section=traffic&id=5690087
   
  Thanks,
  Jim
   
  "68 GT6 MKI

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Wed Oct 31 08:20:01 2007
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 15:20:01 +0000
Subject: [TR] No charge
Message-ID: <1193844001.47289d21745f4@mymail.tcd.ie>

The ignition light on my newly rebuilt engine does not extinguish when the
latter is running, nor does the amp meter show charge. I checked the output
from the dynamo, no problem here 16+ volts, all wires are connected as they
should be, I carried out the control box test with the engine running and a
20volt meter and it shows a very low 4-5volts, adjusting the control screw
had
no effect. Can this unit fail totally? Or might I be missing something, I did
check the control box earth and it seems fine.
John
1954 TR2

John Gillis
Senior Conservator

From nmoseley at dccnet.com  Tue Oct 30 21:04:18 2007
From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 21:04:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Naturally, now the message appears!!!
In-Reply-To: <47277008.4080903@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1193803462_120580@mx.dccnet.com>

Hi Mark, thanks for your efforts. I've ante-ed up $20 through PayPal (it was
so easy, anyone could do it...) and it only cost $19.60 Canadian. What a
bargain!

Nick Moseley

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Oct 31 10:03:14 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 11:03:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] No charge
In-Reply-To: <1193844001.47289d21745f4@mymail.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <20071031180137.039E41879D3@autox.team.net>

This may sounds silly, but re-check all your connections throughout the
charging system.  I had a similar problem but found when I loosened and
retightened the connection at the regulator it cleared up....

All the best,

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
"I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!"




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Gillis
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:20 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] No charge

The ignition light on my newly rebuilt engine does not extinguish when the
latter is running, nor does the amp meter show charge. I checked the output
from the dynamo, no problem here 16+ volts, all wires are connected as they
should be, I carried out the control box test with the engine running and a
20volt meter and it shows a very low 4-5volts, adjusting the control screw
had no effect. Can this unit fail totally? Or might I be missing something,
I did check the control box earth and it seems fine.
John
1954 TR2

John Gillis
Senior Conservator
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

http://www.team.net/donate

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Wed Oct 31 10:13:23 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 13:13:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Darrell Floyd Recuperating
Message-ID: <031401c81be1$59ae0ef0$0201a8c0@bjdtr3a>

Hi everyone,

Many of you know fellow lister and VTR Chief Judge Darrell Floyd.  Last week
Tuesday he had a small nodule in his left lung (discovered during a routine
physical exam) surgically removed.  On Sunday he and his wife Beverly got
the good news that the doctors got everything and confirmed that there were
no signs of anything in the lymph nodes that were removed. (It basically
confirms that nothing has spread past the original nodule.)  They believe
now that he will not need chemo or radiation so that is great news.   

He's back home and Beverly says he's climbing the walls, so if you have a
second, I'm sure he'd enjoy hearing from a bunch of us.  His email address
is wedgeinfo at aol.com.

Cheers,
Blake Discher

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Oct 31 10:15:33 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 17:15:33 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy
Message-ID: <103120071715.16502.4728B8350000BBB10000407622070209539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

> Note : 72 spoke wire  wheels are new and true. Balance done on the newest
> Hunter balancing machine. 

Are they Dayton or Dunlop wheels?

What method was used to mount them on the wheel-balance machine?

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Oct 31 10:31:30 2007
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 17:31:30 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy
Message-ID: <103120071731.8398.4728BBF2000C964C000020CE22007348409D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: DLylis at aol.com
> Pardon me for asking but who determined "true".  I put new wires  on my TR6 
> and in spite of three trips to the owner described "mac daddy" of  Hunter 
> balancing machines it was never right. 

Were these wheels Dunlop or Dayton?

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From dncullig at us.ibm.com  Wed Oct 31 11:09:24 2007
From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 14:09:24 -0400
Subject: [TR]  TR6 Hardtop Installation
Message-ID: <OF91917406.5189A858-ON85257385.006219EA-85257385.0063BCEB@us.ibm.com>

Wayne -
  There is some info on the VTR web site about TR6
hardtops but it's not detailed installation info.
I've not had the hardtop on my car since 1989 but
as I remember it, once you removed the convertible
top, it was just a matter of bolting the back edge
(4 or 5 bolts) into the holes used by the convertible
top, bolting the front edge (2 bolts) into the top
of the windshield and, if you have the hardware for
the side pins, installing them on the B pillars and
sliding the plastic "loops" on the hardtop over the
pins (these keep the top from moving side to side).
It'll take 2 people to put it on or off - it's heavy.
Be careful you don't scratch the rear deck lid -
there should be rubber feet on the bottom edges of
the top to keep this from happening. Then be careful
when closing the doors if the window glass is all
the way up - it may not line up quite right and hit
the edge of the top...

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH

From red_tr250 at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 31 11:17:08 2007
From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 14:17:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop Installation
In-Reply-To: <OF91917406.5189A858-ON85257385.006219EA-85257385.0063BCEB@us.ibm.com>
References: <OF91917406.5189A858-ON85257385.006219EA-85257385.0063BCEB@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <BAY131-W744A2ACA45D048B0B1623D2930@phx.gbl>

Dennis,

Correct me if I'm wrong...and I might be as I've never installed a hard top.

Wasn't there a "special" hood(soft top) cover for hard top models...this would
be to cover the convertible top when it was folded down WITH the hard top
installed.  I would think you would NOT have to remove the convertible top if
this was the case?

Cheers,

Todd


> To: motorcarriage at charter.net
> From: dncullig at us.ibm.com
> Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 14:09:24 -0400
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop Installation
>
> Wayne -
> There is some info on the VTR web site about TR6
> hardtops but it's not detailed installation info.
> I've not had the hardtop on my car since 1989 but
> as I remember it, once you removed the convertible
> top, it was just a matter of bolting the back edge
> (4 or 5 bolts) into the holes used by the convertible
> top, bolting the front edge (2 bolts) into the top
> of the windshield and, if you have the hardware for
> the side pins, installing them on the B pillars and
> sliding the plastic "loops" on the hardtop over the
> pins (these keep the top from moving side to side).
> It'll take 2 people to put it on or off - it's heavy.
> Be careful you don't scratch the rear deck lid -
> there should be rubber feet on the bottom edges of
> the top to keep this from happening. Then be careful
> when closing the doors if the window glass is all
> the way up - it may not line up quite right and hit
> the edge of the top...
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH
> _______________________________________________
> red_tr250 at hotmail.com
>

_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!

From motorcarriage at charter.net  Wed Oct 31 11:30:54 2007
From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 14:30:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop Installation
Message-ID: <011e01c81bec$2c7efa10$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571>

Hi Dennis,
  Thanks for your reply! I supposedly now have all the hardware needed. Time
will tell. One thing that doesn't register with me though are the "plastic
loops" you mention. I'm having difficulty visualizing where they will go. Are
these on the B pillar mounting section. I have an exploded view illustration
but I can't pinpoint there location.  Also I'll be pulling my Soft Top out
before installing, but have heard it can be left in place. There's another
fellow that contacted me trying to do that. I was told it's possible and that
I have the Hard Top Boot Cover with the pouch that's suppose to accommodate
something in such a case. Any Ideas on whether that's true? I appreciate the
feedback.
Regards,
Wayne

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dennis N Culligan
  To: motorcarriage at charter.net
  Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 2:09 PM
  Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop Installation


  Wayne -
    There is some info on the VTR web site about TR6
  hardtops but it's not detailed installation info.
  I've not had the hardtop on my car since 1989 but
  as I remember it, once you removed the convertible
  top, it was just a matter of bolting the back edge
  (4 or 5 bolts) into the holes used by the convertible
  top, bolting the front edge (2 bolts) into the top
  of the windshield and, if you have the hardware for
  the side pins, installing them on the B pillars and
  sliding the plastic "loops" on the hardtop over the
  pins (these keep the top from moving side to side).
  It'll take 2 people to put it on or off - it's heavy.
  Be careful you don't scratch the rear deck lid -
  there should be rubber feet on the bottom edges of
  the top to keep this from happening. Then be careful
  when closing the doors if the window glass is all
  the way up - it may not line up quite right and hit
  the edge of the top...

  Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH

From steven at newellboys.com  Wed Oct 31 11:31:04 2007
From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 11:31:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] OT?  Replacing Temp spare tires?
In-Reply-To: <OF2C4E2635.1D6DCD3C-ON85257385.004495B5-85257385.004932A9@edag.de>
References: <OF2C4E2635.1D6DCD3C-ON85257385.004495B5-85257385.004932A9@edag.de>
Message-ID: <4728C9E8.20306@newellboys.com>

Aribert Neumann wrote:

>Randall has mentioned using a compact temporary/narrow spare tire,
>Txxx/xxR15, for use as a spare in a  TR3.    If I remember correctly from a
>posting years ago,  Randall mentioned that he picked up a compact spare
>(exact vehicle model unknown) at a salvage yard.
>
>I would expect that the temp spare tires have the same dry rot concerns as
>regular tires.  Can one buy new replacement temp spare tires?  Do the temp
>spare tires mount on an existing wheel (do they have the same style lip)?
>Are these tires easy to have dismounted?
>
Tire age is a reasonable concern, but you'd be looking for a temp spare 
from a wrecked late model car. You'll get the tire/wheel for $10 or so, 
and if the donor was 1-2 years old, you have a few years before you'll 
need to replace it. Figure that's about $3/year of use.

Steven

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Wed Oct 31 09:49:38 2007
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 10:49:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters
Message-ID: <20071031174806.5E6481879FA@autox.team.net>

Hello List,
 
Can anyone shed some light as to whether I should have the smooth-faced
letters or ribbed letters on my '58?  The Moss catalog gives the changeover
as 'uncertain' while the TRA Judging Guide gives Comm #50000 as the change
point.
 
The PO had filled the holes, of course I have no way to be sure this is even
the original front apron for the car.
 
Thanks in advance for your input,
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
"I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!"

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.15/1101 - Release Date: 10/31/2007
10:06 AM

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Wed Oct 31 11:47:39 2007
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 11:47:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters
In-Reply-To: <20071031174806.5E6481879FA@autox.team.net>
References: <20071031174806.5E6481879FA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <A48ADE7F92014D9595AB5B40518E91DE@GeoPC>

Ribbed.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "bill beecher" <bill_beecher at flash.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:49 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters


> Hello List,
> 
> Can anyone shed some light as to whether I should have the smooth-faced
> letters or ribbed letters on my '58?  
> Bill B
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Wed Oct 31 12:04:40 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 13:04:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Naturally, now the message appears!!!
In-Reply-To: <47277008.4080903@bradakis.com>
References: <3.0.4.16.20071030042150.18f78e46@pop.west.cox.net>
	<47277008.4080903@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4728D1C8.1000509@tscusa.org>

Mark J. Bradakis wrote:
> Believe it or not, I don't spend every waking moment doing Team.Net
> administration, though it seems like it to me sometimes ;-)
>
> It can take some time -  hours, days, maybe a week before I can get to
> approving messages that have been held back for various reasons,
> such as exceeding the size limit.  Of course, if everyone on all the
> lists sent in maybe 5.95 per year for each of their subscriptions,
> then I probably WOULD spend all my time working on Team.Net!
> And no doubt there would be more features on the web
> pages at http://www.team.net/the-local and it would be more
> up to date, a nicer forum interface, etc.
>
> mjb.
>   
Yeah RIGHT Mark!!  That is, Don't quit your day job ...  :-$
But I will bet you do put in what, on average, 1-2 hours a day??  I 
mean, I have on average 2 site issues I have to deal with on a daily 
basis from approvals, changed email addresses, logins not working, file 
uploads (that I have to fix) broken, and adding new spammers to the 
block list, etc..
I once calculated out how much time was spent simply maintaining 
triumphstag.net at typical website billable rates.  Had David or I been 
paid for that, well yes, there would be many more features on that site, 
and I would have two nicely maintained and painted LBC's as opposed to 
the "drivers" I have.  If I calculated all the time spent based on my 
professional rate, it would be eye popping. 
Happily last quarter I got contributions to actually cover most of my 
actual site expense!
Oh well, someone has to make sacrifices for the good of the hobby.

Don't be bashful Mark, place a prominent requests for contribution URL 
link in the signature of each email.  Make it real easy to contribute.  
It is only adding one line of text and makes it easy to click on without 
having to go searching for how the heck to get money to you.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
TSN Administrator
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Oct 31 12:34:48 2007
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 13:34:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] OT?  Replacing Temp spare tires?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.27794.1193853698.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.27794.1193853698.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2D36CFD0-964F-4A6D-8A19-EE5C2CF0EA2B@telus.net>

On 31-Oct-07, at 12:01 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
> I would expect that the temp spare tires have the same dry rot  
> concerns as
> regular tires.

Probably
> Can one buy new replacement temp spare tires?

Tes
> Do the temp
> spare tires mount on an existing wheel (do they have the same style  
> lip)?

No, special wheels very narrow
> Are these tires easy to have dismounted?


Yes

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Wed Oct 31 12:43:26 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 15:43:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] wire wheel balancing
Message-ID: <014d01c81bf6$4e48fc90$76217247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Listers, mounting and balancing wire wheels is as close as your nearest cycle
(as in Harley) dealer, used them quite a few times.  "FT"

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Oct 31 12:46:30 2007
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 13:46:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 308
In-Reply-To: <mailman.27794.1193853698.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.27794.1193853698.12556.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <819CBB91-047B-45AD-84BC-1A0A9B2DF1EB@telus.net>

Wayne
 From Memory, follow the instructions and remove the soft top ( rear  
plate first, then fold the top and remove the three screws from each  
side mount ).

  Install the "female" body mounts using the three screws that held  
the soft top to the body door post areas.  do NOT fully tighten yet.   
With a helper, place he hard top on to the car sliding the "male"  
pieces into the "female" mounts. Run the two bolts into the front of  
the HT at the windshield header. Leave loose. Run the two bolts at  
the rear of the hard top into the matching threaded holes in the rear  
deck. Tighten all progressively. Done.

The worst thing about it is you will now hear all the rumbles,  
creaks, groans and squeaks that were inaudible in an open car.

  Cheers
  Don

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Oct 31 13:20:07 2007
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 16:20:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters
In-Reply-To: <20071031174806.5E6481879FA@autox.team.net>
References: <20071031174806.5E6481879FA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8C9EA1290981B6C-A0C-13B1@webmail-da18.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: bill beecher <bill_beecher at flash.net>

Can anyone shed some light as to whether I should have the smooth-faced
letters or ribbed letters on my '58?  The Moss catalog gives the 
changeover
as 'uncertain' while the TRA Judging Guide gives Comm #50000 as the 
change
point.

The PO had filled the holes, of course I have no way to be sure this is 
even
the original front apron for the car.

==AM==
So there's no evidence at all of the holes? The PO must have brazed or 
welded them up very nicely, then. ;-)

I must respectfully disagree with the TRA Judging Guide if that's what 
it says. I know for certain that TS71909L (built 3/28/60) has ribbed 
letters as original.  TS73624L probably did as well, but it has a 
replacement apron with no holes at all.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
http://mail.aol.com

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Oct 31 13:36:32 2007
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 14:36:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fwd:TR6 hardtop
References: <819CBB91-047B-45AD-84BC-1A0A9B2DF1EB@telus.net>
Message-ID: <B01A76E1-0332-4B47-A5BC-602AF90014F6@telus.net>

oops got my genders mixed up and I had my B post mounts made by a  
machinist so they may be different than yours but they were copied  
from original parts. Rimmers has a parts diagram on their site:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/triumph/tr6/hood-frame

scroll down to find it.

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Don Spence <dkspence at telus.net>
> Date: October 31, 2007 1:46:30 PM MDT (CA)
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc: motorcarriage at charter.net
> Subject: Re: Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 308
>
> Wayne
> From Memory, follow the instructions and remove the soft top ( rear  
> plate first, then fold the top and remove the three screws from  
> each side mount ).
>
>  Install the "female" body mounts using the three screws that held  
> the soft top to the body door post areas.  do NOT fully tighten  
> yet.  With a helper, place he hard top on to the car sliding the  
> "male" pieces into the "female" mounts. Run the two bolts into the  
> front of the HT at the windshield header. Leave loose. Run the two  
> bolts at the rear of the hard top into the matching threaded holes  
> in the rear deck. Tighten all progressively. Done.
>
> The worst thing about it is you will now hear all the rumbles,  
> creaks, groans and squeaks that were inaudible in an open car.
>
>  Cheers
>  Don

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 31 13:43:28 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 12:43:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters
In-Reply-To: <8C9EA1290981B6C-A0C-13B1@webmail-da18.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20071031174806.5E6481879FA@autox.team.net>
	<8C9EA1290981B6C-A0C-13B1@webmail-da18.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0c8801c81bfe$b104e3f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> So there's no evidence at all of the holes? The PO must have 
> brazed or 
> welded them up very nicely, then. ;-)

Or, as I believe TS39781LO did, it had a replacement front apron fitted at
some point in it's past.  Supposedly after the change in the letter styles,
replacement aprons were supplied with no holes drilled for letters.
(Possibly aprons before that were too, dunno about that.)  And likely many
body shops didn't bother to drill the holes again.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 31 13:49:20 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 12:49:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters
In-Reply-To: <8C9EA1290981B6C-A0C-13B1@webmail-da18.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20071031174806.5E6481879FA@autox.team.net>
	<8C9EA1290981B6C-A0C-13B1@webmail-da18.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0c8901c81bff$82daffe0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I must respectfully disagree with the TRA Judging Guide if 
> that's what 
> it says.

Actually, the copy I have handy says only that smooth letters should not be
on cars before TS50000.  That jives with my (dim) memory, that the two
different styles were fitted essentially at random for a long time.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 31 14:13:31 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 13:13:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] No charge
In-Reply-To: <1193844001.47289d21745f4@mymail.tcd.ie>
References: <1193844001.47289d21745f4@mymail.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <0c8a01c81c02$e3e224a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> The ignition light on my newly rebuilt engine does not 
> extinguish when the
> latter is running,

John, can you be a bit more explicit about what tests you've done, and what
the results were ?  I'm not sure I understand.

But if you can get 16+ volts with the 2 wires/terminals connected together;
but only 4-5 volts with them both connected to the control box; then either
the box itself is bad or the connections/wires to it are bad.  Until the
voltage reaches over 15 volts, the control box should have the F terminal
connected to the D terminal, just as in your first test.

And yes, it's not unusual for them to fail totally, or even not work after a
long period of storage.  I have a collection, including one "NOS" unit off
eBay, that don't work in one way or another.

I still have the 2Mb PDF of the Lucas Generator and Control Box tests if you
(or anyone else) wants it.  Unlike the briefer tests given in other sources
(like the Haynes), it's test procedure seems thorough and logical to me.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 31 14:22:12 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 13:22:12 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT?  Replacing Temp spare tires?
In-Reply-To: <OF2C4E2635.1D6DCD3C-ON85257385.004495B5-85257385.004932A9@edag.de>
References: <OF2C4E2635.1D6DCD3C-ON85257385.004495B5-85257385.004932A9@edag.de>
Message-ID: <0c8b01c81c04$1a4f4a30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I would expect that the temp spare tires have the same dry 
> rot concerns as
> regular tires.

I think they are less of a concern, because spare tires are typically stored
away from daylight and ozone, and are supposed to be used only for short
trips at low speeds.  But Bridgestone/Firestone recommends they be replaced
after 10 years; likely other tire makers do as well.

>  Can one buy new replacement temp spare tires? 

Surely someone can order them for you.  But as cheap as used ones are, I
don't see the point.

>  Do the temp
> spare tires mount on an existing wheel (do they have the same 
> style lip)?
> Are these tires easy to have dismounted?

I don't know what a tire shop would have to say about it.  But I dismounted
and remounted mine using a cheap manual tire changer from HF, with no
trouble at all.   And the stock TR3 wheel was only slightly wider than the
original wheel, so no trouble with seating the bead either.

I've even put it to the test, driving some 40 miles home after ruining a
tire, at speeds of 70-80 mph.  Worked perfectly.

Randall

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Oct 31 14:34:07 2007
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 14:34:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] RE:   TR6 Hardtop Installation
In-Reply-To: <OFBA9E2AE0.BD36AB1B-ON85257385.0068A0EF-85257385.00693C18@us.ibm.com>
References: <OFBA9E2AE0.BD36AB1B-ON85257385.0068A0EF-85257385.00693C18@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <p06240801c34ea5144a5c@[67.182.76.234]>

I have two  (2) of them, if anyone wants one, make me an offer ...

>Todd -
>    Years ago I looked for one of those "hard top boots" but
>never found one (note that there are snaps inside my hardtop
>to facilitate mounting one of these phantom boots). And yes,
>the convertible top can be left in the car but a) it takes up space,
>and b) it bolts into the same holes in the B pillar as some of the
>mounting hardware.  I just always took the soft top off the few
>times I mounted the hard top.
>
>Dennis Culligan


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Oct 31 15:30:37 2007
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 18:30:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Vote for me!
In-Reply-To: <44705.88141.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <44705.88141.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <200710311730.38039.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 31 October 2007 10:13 am, Jim wrote:
> Hi list,
>
>   My GT6 was featured on ABC Chicago's "I Love My Car" segment this month. 
> I believe mine was the first LBC ever featured.  Now it's time to vote for
> "Car of the Month."  Help!  Give me a vote!
>
>   http://abclocal.go.com/wls/story?section=traffic&id=5690087
>
>   Thanks,
>   Jim
>
>   "68 GT6 MKI
> _______________________________________________
>
Jim,

I just submitted my vote!
Good luck!

Bob

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Oct 31 14:57:44 2007
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 17:57:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sticky Throttle Linkage
Message-ID: <000801c81c09$13445d70$210110ac@bobspc>

Over the past month or so, my throttle linkage has gotten "sticky". Pushing
on the accelerator pedal was real smooth until I'd hit a strong point of
resistance and then, with more force, I'd get past that point and it would
be smooth again. Driving with me was a neck snapping experience......smooth
head back take off, followed by sticky part that tossed head forward and
then head back again as I got past the sticky part. The solution was pretty
simple. The short vertical link rod between the 2 carbs was binding. This
link is a "ball & socket" set-up with a "ball & socket" on each end. I took
it apart, packed some wheel bearing grease in the socket and reassembled it.
So far I'm back to being nice and smooth again through the whole range of
the linkage. It's nice to have a no cost 15 minute fix once in a while.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Oct 31 16:18:42 2007
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 19:18:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sticky Throttle Linkage
In-Reply-To: <000801c81c09$13445d70$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000801c81c09$13445d70$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <200710311818.42798.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 31 October 2007 04:57 pm, Bob Danielson wrote:
> Over the past month or so, my throttle linkage has gotten "sticky". Pushing
> on the accelerator pedal was real smooth until I'd hit a strong point of
> resistance and then, with more force, I'd get past that point and it would
> be smooth again. Driving with me was a neck snapping experience......smooth
> head back take off, followed by sticky part that tossed head forward and
> then head back again as I got past the sticky part. The solution was pretty
> simple. The short vertical link rod between the 2 carbs was binding. This
> link is a "ball & socket" set-up with a "ball & socket" on each end. I took
> it apart, packed some wheel bearing grease in the socket and reassembled
> it. So far I'm back to being nice and smooth again through the whole range
> of the linkage. It's nice to have a no cost 15 minute fix once in a while.
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>

Bob,

This part sounds similar to the ones on the 3 and 4.

I replaced both the long and short links with parts from TRF a few years ago 
and the parts supplied were of superior quality to OEM. And they were already 
packed with a white grease.

When I did the 4 I used new parts there also.

Very smooth throttle action.

Every so often I force grease in there with my finger to insure they stay that 
way.

If TRF offers the TR6 part, I would get them there if you ever need them.

Bob

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Wed Oct 31 16:34:22 2007
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 18:34:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel injection:  Thoughts and Dreams
In-Reply-To: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCMEFKFBAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>
Message-ID: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCMEHCFBAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>

Hello William,

Rick Patton here from sidedrafttbi.com and long time List member. My
interest in fuel injection started as a hobby and has slowly become somewhat
financial. Note- I didn't say profitable.

William, thanks for taking time to dream about fuel injection options.
You've mentioned that those who have made the leap to throttle body fuel
injection on the TR6 are pleased with the results. Of course now I know that
credit must be given to those ECM's made right in your department.

TBI is a perfect fit for those side draft carbs like the SU's and Zenith's
as they can be converted without modifying the carb allowing it to be
returned to original condition. We offer kits for the 6 cylinder dual carbed
engines and will be working on the 4 cylinder dual carbed version over the
winter. My new supplier, Affordable Fuel Injection, is confident that they
can solve the fueling riddle. In fact I'm ready to produce the machined
conversion parts so the only real issue is to provide controls for even
fueling.

If there is someone in the Michigan area with a dual carbed 4 cyl car ready
to convert, maybe we can do the first 4 cyl conversion in AFI's shop? As
much as I'd like it to be a TR3 or 4, market sense says it ought to be
(gulp) an MGB. Surely not what the good folks here of the Triumph List
wanted to hear but there are zillions of B's out there. Have patience, the
same basic principles apply to the Triumphs, once one 4 cylinder is done all
the others will pretty much fall into place.

Thanks for listening,

Rick Patton
75 TR6sci
http://sidedrafttbi.com/
http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/


> -----Original Message-----

> Behalf Of Daehler, William F
> Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 4:46 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel injection: Thoughts and Dreams
>
>
> I was following the discussion last month about TBI fuel injection.  It
> seemed like a couple of guys on this list, actually have done the
> conversion, and it has worked with measurable success.  Made for great
> reading.
snip
>
> I'm going to now paste in the following FAQ that I cut from the
> Sidedraft website:
>
> Can I convert my TR4A or dual carbed MGB?
>
> The parts will fit the carbs nicely however the rub is that the firing
> order and manifold layout would deliver an uneven fuel mix if trying to
> use the GM ECM. Sorry to say that at present the GM TBI computer is not
> compatible with most dual carbed British 4 cylinder engines. We are
> working on this issue and expect to resolve it soon. Presently it will
> work perfectly on the same engines when using a single carb. Stay tuned-
> this may soon change! (Oct 07)
>
>
> So fellow listers, what do you think?  Should we convert now to fuel
> injection,  or wait until aftermarket parts start to appear for direct
> injection?  Bio mass?  Mr. Fusion retrofit kit?
>
> William F. Daehler
> Sr. Process Engr. MKE
> Delphi Electronics & Safety

From jmitch at snet.net  Wed Oct 31 16:41:12 2007
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 19:41:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Vote for me!
In-Reply-To: <44705.88141.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <44705.88141.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <47291298.8000204@snet.net>

I just voted, let us know if you win.  John Mitchell

Jim wrote:
> Hi list,
>    
>   My GT6 was featured on ABC Chicago's "I Love My Car" segment this month.  I believe mine was the first LBC ever featured.  Now it's time to vote for "Car of the Month."  Help!  Give me a vote!
>    
>   http://abclocal.go.com/wls/story?section=traffic&id=5690087
>    
>   Thanks,
>   Jim
>    
>   "68 GT6 MKI
> _______________________________________________
> jmitch at snet.net
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> http://www.team.net/donate
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Oct 31 16:42:29 2007
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 18:42:29 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Sticky Throttle Linkage
Message-ID: <28939459.14095971193874149398.JavaMail.root@vms170.mailsrvcs.net>

Bob,

I would agree.  My linkage from TFR has no binding issues and it is what I got in the box.

Glad the fix was simple.........Craig


>From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
>Date: 2007/10/31 Wed PM 06:18:42 CDT
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
>Subject: Re: [TR] Sticky Throttle Linkage

>On Wednesday 31 October 2007 04:57 pm, Bob Danielson wrote:
>> Over the past month or so, my throttle linkage has gotten "sticky". Pushing
>> on the accelerator pedal was real smooth until I'd hit a strong point of
>> resistance and then, with more force, I'd get past that point and it would
>> be smooth again. Driving with me was a neck snapping experience......smooth
>> head back take off, followed by sticky part that tossed head forward and
>> then head back again as I got past the sticky part. The solution was pretty
>> simple. The short vertical link rod between the 2 carbs was binding. This
>> link is a "ball & socket" set-up with a "ball & socket" on each end. I took
>> it apart, packed some wheel bearing grease in the socket and reassembled
>> it. So far I'm back to being nice and smooth again through the whole range
>> of the linkage. It's nice to have a no cost 15 minute fix once in a while.
>>
>> Bob Danielson
>> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
>> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
>> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>>
>
>Bob,
>
>This part sounds similar to the ones on the 3 and 4.
>
>I replaced both the long and short links with parts from TRF a few years ago 
>and the parts supplied were of superior quality to OEM. And they were already 
>packed with a white grease.
>
>When I did the 4 I used new parts there also.
>
>Very smooth throttle action.
>
>Every so often I force grease in there with my finger to insure they stay that 
>way.
>
>If TRF offers the TR6 part, I would get them there if you ever need them.
>
>Bob
>_______________________________________________
>thenicholls at verizon.net
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Oct 31 17:06:30 2007
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 17:06:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Vote for me!
In-Reply-To: <47291298.8000204@snet.net>
References: <44705.88141.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<47291298.8000204@snet.net>
Message-ID: <000e01c81c1b$0e5b2c50$2202a8c0@newcomputer>

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Mitchell
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 4:41 PM
To: Jim
Cc: triumph list
Subject: Re: [TR] Vote for me!
When I sent in my vote you are ahead with over 50 percent of the vote.

I just voted, let us know if you win.  John Mitchell

Jim wrote:
> Hi list,
>    
>   My GT6 was featured on ABC Chicago's "I Love My Car" segment this month.
I believe mine was the first LBC ever featured.  Now it's time to vote for
"Car of the Month."  Help!  Give me a vote!
>    
>   http://abclocal.go.com/wls/story?section=traffic&id=5690087
>    
>   Thanks,
>   Jim
>    
>   "68 GT6 MKI

From 6parts at charter.net  Wed Oct 31 18:09:31 2007
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:09:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake caliper
Message-ID: <003c01c81c23$dc63f2f0$03d30c47@alan>

I have a TR6 that was hit on the drivers side and wipe out the front
suspension on that side.
 I rebuilt the calipers on both sides.
The original Passenger side caliper is marked Type 16  6b on one side and Type
16PB QS 11 G on the other side.
Unfortunately I didn't keep the original drivers side caliper since it was
broke in half, so I can't compare it to the one
I acquired one off another 74 TR6.
.
It is marked Type 16  11M on one side and Type 16PB  13M on the other.  This
one I had to use 4 shims to get it to center on the rotor.
It does not open up as much as the passenger side to fit over the rotor with
the pads installed..
Does anyone know if this is the proper brake caliper?

Thanks

Al Salvatore

From NPaul72464 at aol.com  Wed Oct 31 18:24:20 2007
From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:24:20 EDT
Subject: [TR] OT?  Replacing Temp spare tires?
Message-ID: <be4.1a8a1d9e.345a84c4@aol.com>

Can you put a tube into one of the temporary  spares?



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From 6parts at charter.net  Wed Oct 31 18:32:07 2007
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:32:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 brake caliper
Message-ID: <005d01c81c27$041de730$03d30c47@alan>

> They are both marked 16PB on the caliper, so according to TRF catalog they 
> should be the later caliper.
> Whats making me question them being a correct pair are the other markings 
> that don't match; unless they signify right and left.
>
> Al
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <lfm614 at aol.com>
> To: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:16 PM
> Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 brake caliper
>
>
>> You have an older and newer caliper check TRF catalog so see the 
>> differences. I know one has metric hose connections, an improved rubber 
>> bellows design and I think smaller pad pins.
>>
>> They should both work equally well but mine are both P's so I am not 
>> completely sure just info I have gathered alog the way.  The Moss catalog 
>> may help point out the differences as well.
>>
>> Lou
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net>
>>
>> Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:09:31
>> To:<triumphs at autox.team.net>, "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [6pack] TR6 brake caliper
>>
>>
>> I have a TR6 that was hit on the drivers side and wipe out the front
>> suspension on that side.
>> I rebuilt the calipers on both sides.
>> The original Passenger side caliper is marked Type 16  6b on one side and 
>> Type
>> 16PB QS 11 G on the other side.
>> Unfortunately I didn't keep the original drivers side caliper since it 
>> was
>> broke in half, so I can't compare it to the one
>> I acquired one off another 74 TR6.
>> .
>> It is marked Type 16  11M on one side and Type 16PB  13M on the other. 
>> This
>> one I had to use 4 shims to get it to center on the rotor.
>> It does not open up as much as the passenger side to fit over the rotor 
>> with
>> the pads installed..
>> Does anyone know if this is the proper brake caliper?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Al Salvatore

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Wed Oct 31 18:33:02 2007
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 18:33:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy
References: <009c01c81b76$bb6db840$4101a8c0@CARROOM>
Message-ID: <007901c81c27$2c35e150$8701a8c0@Dell>

Bob, I was talking with a few Morgan owners when this topic came up. 
According to them, it is an intrinsic Morgan issue having to do with the 
suspension and frame and no amount of wheel balancing will stop it. They 
also said that when it starts to happen, the only way to stop it is to 
accelerate, as counter intuitive as that may sound. They didn't know of any 
permanant cure, other than trading it in for a Triumph :-)
Bob K.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Nogueira" <nogera at worldnet.att.net>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 9:30 PM
Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy


>   As a Morgan owner I lurk on the TR list for information regarding the TR
> engines we share.  A common issue with many Morgan owners is a problem 
> with
> front wheel shimmy. Since many TR's use the same 165/15 tires and wheels I
> was wondering if TR's suffer from this problem and what solution are
> recommended.?
> Note : 72 spoke wire  wheels are new and true. Balance done on the newest
> Hunter balancing machine.
>
> Thanks in advance for any advise
>
> Bob

From kkealty at rogers.com  Wed Oct 31 18:37:58 2007
From: kkealty at rogers.com (KEVIN KEALTY)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:37:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Naturally, now the message appears!!!
References: <1193803462_120580@mx.dccnet.com>
Message-ID: <14d201c81c27$d5727710$6500a8c0@HPMain>

Hi Mark.  Here's another $20.  I have been meaning to donate for ages. 
Sorry it took so long.




Kevin Kealty
62 TR3B  TCF894L

another Canadian!

From rickandcecilia at comcast.net  Wed Oct 31 19:21:50 2007
From: rickandcecilia at comcast.net (Rick & Cecilia)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:21:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Free Spitfire parts
Message-ID: <02b401c81c2d$f6378980$6401a8c0@joshua>

BlankDoes anyone need a right and left door from a 1979 Spitfire?  THey are
intact...

-    Glass
-    Frame
-    Locking hardware
-    Window cranks
-    Hinges

Everything BUT the inner door panel.  They are FREE for the asking.  The only
challenge is that they myst be picked up as I can not ship.  THey are way too
heavy.  I am in Maryland and will drive them 50 or so miles to simplify the
pickup.

Let me know.

THanks

Rick

rick at britishautosports.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Blank Bkgrd.gif]

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Oct 31 19:50:58 2007
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:50:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters
In-Reply-To: <0c8901c81bff$82daffe0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20071031174806.5E6481879FA@autox.team.net>
	<8C9EA1290981B6C-A0C-13B1@webmail-da18.sysops.aol.com>
	<0c8901c81bff$82daffe0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <8C9EA492A4CCCD1-3B4-5C8F@FWM-M39.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>

> I must respectfully disagree with the TRA Judging Guide if
> that's what
> it says.

Actually, the copy I have handy says only that smooth letters should 
not be
on cars before TS50000.  That jives with my (dim) memory, that the two
different styles were fitted essentially at random for a long time.

==AM==
I've never totally bought into the legend that random piles of parts 
lay around waiting to be randomly placed on cars coming down the 
assembly line. ;-) But since S-T didn't use the smooth TRIUMPH letters 
on anything else until the early 1959 introduction of the Herald, I'd 
have to assume that those letters couldn't have appeared on TRs much 
earlier than that. From that point forward, I suppose it's possible 
that the smooth letters could have appeared at any time, but I'd also 
assume that there was a pretty good supply of ribbed letters.

Anyway, and for whatever it's worth, I do have a late edition of the 
factory "Triumph Sports Car 20 TR2,3 & 3A Models" Spare Parts Catalog 
that does show ribbed letters (part numbers 703036-42) from TS22014 as 
expected. It also lists the smooth letters (part numbers 703862-8) but 
gives no "From Comm. No.". (And yes, this SPC is late enough to list 
the post TS60000 changed body panels and such!)

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
http://mail.aol.com

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Wed Oct 31 19:52:21 2007
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:52:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] OT?  Replacing Temp spare tires?
References: <be4.1a8a1d9e.345a84c4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001a01c81c32$39918600$76217247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

> Can you put a tube into one of the temporary  spares?
==========================================================================================================
Yes you can and should put a tube in the spare, problem is trying to find 
any tire outlet that sells T/R's size tubes, a very big surprise is awaiting 
owners, major tire outlets do not carry our size tubes.  BTDT way too many 
times, a lot of talk about this at VTRSE last week.  "FT" 

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Wed Oct 31 20:08:18 2007
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:08:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Naturally, now the message appears!!!
In-Reply-To: <4728D1C8.1000509@tscusa.org>
References: <3.0.4.16.20071030042150.18f78e46@pop.west.cox.net>
	<47277008.4080903@bradakis.com> <4728D1C8.1000509@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <47294322.3050608@tscusa.org>

Glenn A. Merrell wrote:
> Don't be bashful Mark, place a prominent requests for contribution URL 
> link in the signature of each email.  Make it real easy to contribute.  
> It is only adding one line of text and makes it easy to click on without 
> having to go searching for how the heck to get money to you.
>
>   

DOH!! It's there!!!  Have a LOOK!! 

It looks like THIS!!!
http://www.team.net/donate.html

All it takes it to actually CLICK on it!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Oct 31 21:08:18 2007
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 23:08:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Vote for me!
In-Reply-To: <44705.88141.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <NJEDLIPPPIKINBMDJOPBGEJLCFAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>

Sorry for being so dumb, but just exactly how do we vote?  I went to that
web page and did not see anything that looked like a way to cast a vote.

kg

Hi list,

  My GT6 was featured on ABC Chicago's "I Love My Car" segment this month.
I believe mine was the first LBC ever featured.  Now it's time to vote for
"Car of the Month."  Help!  Give me a vote!

  http://abclocal.go.com/wls/story?section=traffic&id=5690087

  Thanks,
  Jim

  "68 GT6 MKI
_______________________________________________

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 31 08:19:42 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 07:19:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy
In-Reply-To: <c6a.1ba9b937.3459b9e8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071031141941.QRXK15880.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> Do not invest 
> another dollar  in this shimmy issue without packing them up 
> and sending them off to Hendrix  Wire Wheel.

A very good point.  Another, less severe approach is to see exactly how they
mount the wheels on the machine.  The wheels MUST be gripped by tapered
cones with the same taper and resting on the same surfaces as the cone parts
of the spline adapter and knockoff.  The other parts of the hub are not
necessarily true to anything, so truing with (for example) a convex (male)
cone on the outside of the wheel is apt to make it worse rather than better.
The proper cones are very rare, especially outside of places that specialize
in wire wheels (like Hendrix and Valley Wire Wheel in Van Nuys, CA) but they
do exist.

Another good question to ask is how much runout do the wheels have, in 2
different axes.  They are never just "true", there is always some runout,
both radial and lateral, and if your shop doesn't know this (and know the
number), they don't know what they are doing.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 31 22:47:46 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:47:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters
In-Reply-To: <8C9EA492A4CCCD1-3B4-5C8F@FWM-M39.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071101044747.IAHE10856.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>

> I've never totally bought into the legend that random piles 
> of parts lay around waiting to be randomly placed on cars 
> coming down the assembly line. ;-)

Well, I was thinking more along the lines of having 2 alternate suppliers
and buying from whoever had the best price/availability at the time.  A
common practice both then and now, I believe, although usually the parts are
fully interchangeable (like the wiring harnesses).

FWIW, Bill Piggott gives the change point between ribbed/smooth as being at
body number EB72384.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 31 23:02:37 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:02:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT?  Replacing Temp spare tires?
In-Reply-To: <001a01c81c32$39918600$76217247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <20071101050238.DFQU2007.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> Yes you can and should put a tube in the spare, problem is 
> trying to find any tire outlet that sells T/R's size tubes, a 
> very big surprise is awaiting owners, major tire outlets do 
> not carry our size tubes.

Might be more common at tractor dealers, like Tractor Supply Co in the
midwest.  A quick Google turned up several possibilities too, like
http://www.tireandtube.com/passanger-car-tubes.html
(although it looks like they want to sell a case of 20).

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Wed Oct 31 22:09:22 2007
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 01:09:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] OT?  Replacing Temp spare tires?
Message-ID: <c5b.1c1ae3a8.345ab982@aol.com>

It seems like if doing this still uses the stock rim (I assume it does) and  
is close to the right dia. does it reall save much space?
 
Mike Moore 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 31 23:29:05 2007
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:29:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT?  Replacing Temp spare tires?
In-Reply-To: <c5b.1c1ae3a8.345ab982@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071101052905.IDUR18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

Mike Moore wrote :

>	It seems like if doing this still uses the stock rim (I assume it
does) and is > close to the right dia. does it reall save much space?

Well, it doesn't need to save "much" space, IMO.  Just enough to be able to
remove the spare without resorting to a rope tied around a tree !  That's
not such a big issue for those with post-60K cars (the well was made
bigger), but it was a major hassle with TS39781LO.

BTW, the diameter is somewhat smaller than the stock tire.  Again, this is
only for temporary use at low speed.

If you don't happen to feel the need for a smaller spare, then by all means
ignore this thread.

Randall

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Oct 31 22:40:12 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 23:40:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters
In-Reply-To: <8C9EA1290981B6C-A0C-13B1@webmail-da18.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071101063833.B3040187A31@autox.team.net>

The holes are there, but filled, but I have no assurance that this is the
original apron.  Also, I found 5 or 7 smooth letters in a box of junk that
came with the car.

>From the input so far, I think I am going back with ribbed even if I have to
re-drill the proper holes.  Anyone need some extra smooth letters?

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
"I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
zoboherald at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 2:20 PM
To: bill_beecher at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters

-----Original Message-----
From: bill beecher <bill_beecher at flash.net>

Can anyone shed some light as to whether I should have the smooth-faced
letters or ribbed letters on my '58?  The Moss catalog gives the changeover
as 'uncertain' while the TRA Judging Guide gives Comm #50000 as the change
point.

The PO had filled the holes, of course I have no way to be sure this is even
the original front apron for the car.

==AM==
So there's no evidence at all of the holes? The PO must have brazed or
welded them up very nicely, then. ;-)

I must respectfully disagree with the TRA Judging Guide if that's what it
says. I know for certain that TS71909L (built 3/28/60) has ribbed letters as
original.  TS73624L probably did as well, but it has a replacement apron
with no holes at all.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
http://mail.aol.com _______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

http://www.team.net/donate.html

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.15/1101 - Release Date: 10/31/2007
10:06 AM
 

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From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Oct 31 22:42:26 2007
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 23:42:26 -0600
Subject: [TR] Vote for me!
In-Reply-To: <NJEDLIPPPIKINBMDJOPBGEJLCFAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>
Message-ID: <20071101064048.0039D187A31@autox.team.net>

So did I, it said you could vote at the end of the month... Well today is
the 31st.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ken
Gano, home
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 10:08 PM
To: Jim; triumph list
Subject: Re: [TR] Vote for me!

Sorry for being so dumb, but just exactly how do we vote?  I went to that
web page and did not see anything that looked like a way to cast a vote.

kg

Hi list,

  My GT6 was featured on ABC Chicago's "I Love My Car" segment this month.
I believe mine was the first LBC ever featured.  Now it's time to vote for
"Car of the Month."  Help!  Give me a vote!

  http://abclocal.go.com/wls/story?section=traffic&id=5690087

  Thanks,
  Jim

  "68 GT6 MKI
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
wbeech at flash.net

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

http://www.team.net/donate.html

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.15/1101 - Release Date: 10/31/2007
10:06 AM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.15/1101 - Release Date: 10/31/2007
10:06 AM