From DLylis at aol.com Thu Nov 1 04:28:07 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 07:28:07 EDT Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy Message-ID: I assume that the Morgan owners all have wire wheels? Accelerating, although it may seem counterintuitive, actually makes sense. Decelerating may/probably/will have the same effect. I will bet that the vibration is set up at 55 - 60 mph and goes away as you accelerate through that. This is a very common malady and can, and does, occur with steel wheels as well. This can be trued and balanced out. This is a "harmonic" set up at that rotational speed. Wouldn't you think that it would get worse as the rotational speed increases? For the most part it doesn't. I have had it at 55 - 60 but the car settles down as I approach 70 -80-90 mph. The annoying part is that you drive most of the time at 55 - 60. I have allowed myself some "wiggle room" in my statements because sometimes the wheel is so far out that it does not conform to what I have said here. I am by no means an officianado on Morgans, in fact know very little about them. What I recommend is that you call Alan Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheel. NFI. He talks for free. He trues and balances for cash. He can help you understand this phenomenon, as he did with me. He may confirm that Morgan has an inherent flaw that causes wheel shimmy, but I were a betting man I would bet not. I may lose! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From bdischer at blakedischer.com Thu Nov 1 04:33:28 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 07:33:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vote for me! In-Reply-To: <20071101064048.0039D187A31@autox.team.net> References: <20071101064048.0039D187A31@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <013b01c81c7b$07575c20$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> I refreshed the page, then the "results" area turned into a "ballot". Cheers, Blake -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: [TR] Vote for me! So did I, it said you could vote at the end of the month... Well today is the 31st. Bill -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: [TR] Vote for me! Sorry for being so dumb, but just exactly how do we vote? I went to that web page and did not see anything that looked like a way to cast a vote. From DLylis at aol.com Thu Nov 1 04:43:15 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 07:43:15 EDT Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy Message-ID: In a message dated 10/31/2007 11:16:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Another good question to ask is how much runout do the wheels have, in 2 different axes. They are never just "true", there is always some runout, both radial and lateral, and if your shop doesn't know this (and know the number), they don't know what they are doing. So true. I had a couple of good splines lying around with some pretty banged up knockoffs. I chucked up one of the knockoffs in a lathe and cut a tapered hole so that the Hunter cone could bear on the taper and the wheel could properly bear on the spline and the inside taper of the knockoff. As the tech had no clue as to radial and lateral runout the Hunter machine could not balance the wheels. In the end, having them properly "trued" solved the problem. Tires were shaved as well. I swore that I was going to learn to true a wire wheel but it is still sitting on my to do list. "Trued" is a relative term as I believe acceptable runout for a wire wheel is .050". I will have to check my Bentley. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From supertr6 at earthlink.net Thu Nov 1 06:29:59 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 09:29:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop Installation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4729D4D7.60209@earthlink.net> Yes there was. I have one on my car right now. (Picked up a mildly used one cheap a few years ago. Just cost me gas to drive to Georgia!) You still have to remove the soft top rear fastener however. What the soft top/hard top boot cover does is hold up the soft top so it doesn't "rest" on the wheel arches. It fastens to the normal soft top boot cover points and then to the snaps that should be in place on the hardtop itself. If anyone needs pix of it, let me know. Joe 72 TR6 Todd Bermudez wrote: > Dennis, > > Correct me if I'm wrong...and I might be as I've never installed a hard top. > > Wasn't there a "special" hood(soft top) cover for hard top models...this would > be to cover the convertible top when it was folded down WITH the hard top > installed. I would think you would NOT have to remove the convertible top if > this was the case? > > Cheers, > > Todd > > > >> To: motorcarriage at charter.net >> From: dncullig at us.ibm.com >> Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 14:09:24 -0400 >> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop Installation >> >> Wayne - >> There is some info on the VTR web site about TR6 >> hardtops but it's not detailed installation info. >> I've not had the hardtop on my car since 1989 but >> as I remember it, once you removed the convertible >> top, it was just a matter of bolting the back edge >> (4 or 5 bolts) into the holes used by the convertible >> top, bolting the front edge (2 bolts) into the top >> of the windshield and, if you have the hardware for >> the side pins, installing them on the B pillars and >> sliding the plastic "loops" on the hardtop over the >> pins (these keep the top from moving side to side). >> It'll take 2 people to put it on or off - it's heavy. >> Be careful you don't scratch the rear deck lid - >> there should be rubber feet on the bottom edges of >> the top to keep this from happening. Then be careful >> when closing the doors if the window glass is all >> the way up - it may not line up quite right and hit >> the edge of the top... >> >> Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH >> _______________________________________________ >> red_tr250 at hotmail.com From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Nov 1 06:39:29 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 09:39:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters In-Reply-To: <20071101044747.IAHE10856.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <8C9EAA3C331DFD7-670-6AD4@FWM-D02.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Randall > I've never totally bought into the legend that random piles > of parts lay around waiting to be randomly placed on cars > coming down the assembly line. ;-) Well, I was thinking more along the lines of having 2 alternate suppliers and buying from whoever had the best price/availability at the time. A common practice both then and now, I believe, although usually the parts are fully interchangeable (like the wiring harnesses). ==AM== Right. That WAS done often enough, sometimes with 'disposable' items such as filters but also sometimes with major items such as wiring harnesses. With the ribbed v smooth letters, though, I believe the spacing is somewhat different, although I'd have to measure up holes for both to confirm that. I do know the ribbed letters are significantly wider. ==AM== FWIW, Bill Piggott gives the change point between ribbed/smooth as being at body number EB72384. ==AM== I'll have to see how that compares to the EB numbers on my cars, but that sounds much closer to what I would have expected. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From tfansher at comcast.net Thu Nov 1 06:52:01 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 09:52:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] list support Message-ID: <008201c81c8e$6158ea50$5918e247@DCS78M81> 1. I voted for the GT6 2. Mark the check's in the PayPal. All else is good... if it will quit raining I'll drive the TR3 today. Tom From steven at newellboys.com Thu Nov 1 07:07:39 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 07:07:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] OT? Replacing Temp spare tires? (tubes) In-Reply-To: <001a01c81c32$39918600$76217247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <001a01c81c32$39918600$76217247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <4729DDAB.8060705@newellboys.com> FRED E THOMAS wrote: >>Can you put a tube into one of the temporary spares? >> >> >========================================================================================================== >Yes you can and should put a tube in the spare, problem is trying to find >any tire outlet that sells T/R's size tubes, a very big surprise is awaiting >owners, major tire outlets do not carry our size tubes. BTDT way too many >times, a lot of talk about this at VTRSE last week. "FT" > I can find TR4-sized innertubes at local Pep Boys and CarQuest stores around metro Denver. Well, I should say, I usually find only one in stock at a time. The quality varies too; one thin-feeling CarQuest tube split on a seam within a week, in the first 1/2 hour of day one of a TSD rally it turned out. If I were planning to replace my tires all around, I would order a set of tubes from Moss or TRF and take them with me to the shop for mounting. I might take Fred's good point a step further -- it's worth adding an inner tube to your travel spares kit, as when you run over a sharp pointy thing in Nowhere Close, Montana, there likely won't be a tube in your size at the nearest Discount Tire. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 From eoot at citlink.net Thu Nov 1 08:07:55 2007 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 11:07:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] list support References: <008201c81c8e$6158ea50$5918e247@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <00d401c81c98$fb7b07d0$640a0a0a@MyComputski> Ditto Except for the rain! ----- Original Message ----- From: "THOMAS FANSHER" To: "Triumphs list" Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 9:52 AM Subject: [TR] list support > 1. I voted for the GT6 > > 2. Mark the check's in the PayPal. > > All else is good... if it will quit raining I'll drive the TR3 today. > Tom > _______________________________________________ > eoot at citlink.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From NPaul72464 at aol.com Thu Nov 1 08:26:48 2007 From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 11:26:48 EDT Subject: [TR] OT? Replacing Temp spare tires? (tubes) Message-ID: Ditto to the carry a spare tube comment. I brought two on my recent trip out west and sure enough got a slow leak. The nearest place that could fix it was 60 miles away. Luckily I had two tubes with me, a new one and a used one. The mechanic put in the new one and it split on the seam immediately. The old one work fine. Ned Paulsen ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From jmerone at rocketmail.com Thu Nov 1 12:49:31 2007 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 12:49:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale video on ebay Message-ID: <258406.65673.qm@web30909.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I know that they can't possibly know everything about every car on the lot - but I always get a kick out of car salemen talking up the attributes of a TR6. Check out this video for a TR6 for sale on ebay. Everything is "terrific, amazing, etc. etc." http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR-6-WE-FINANCE-PERFECT-1971-TRIUMPH-TR6-64KMI-CONVERTIBLE-VIDEO-DEMO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ80757QQihZ014QQitemZ330183320987QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From btmfdchn at aol.com Thu Nov 1 13:04:21 2007 From: btmfdchn at aol.com (btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 16:04:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tappet failure Message-ID: <8C9EAD98724B999-838-71F@webmail-de18.sysops.aol.com> Greetings..? I have been hearing much of late about tappet failure, cam failure, and ZDDP.? It has pretty much centered around the TRactor engine (TR2-4).?? Has anyone else heard of failures in Spitfire, TR6, or other British engines?????? TJ ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From lherault at bu.edu Thu Nov 1 13:15:03 2007 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 16:15:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] tubes Message-ID: <008401c81cc3$e33745f0$90d4299b@ad.bu.edu> Why can't you patch a puncture in a tube? You can still buy tube repair kits. Ron L From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Thu Nov 1 13:48:35 2007 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 15:48:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vote for me! In-Reply-To: References: <44705.88141.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The first time I went there I could vote. I was going to vote from another computer and did not see the voting option. Just now it is back! I see the GT6 has gotten almost 50% of the vote.Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA'63 TR3B TCF587LThat ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!See it moves!> From: triumphs at consolidated.net> To: cartr4a at ameritech.net; triumphs at autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 23:08:18 -0500> Subject: Re: [TR] Vote for me!> > Sorry for being so dumb, but just exactly how do we vote? I went to that> web page and did not see anything that looked like a way to cast a vote.> > kg> > Hi list,> > My GT6 was featured on ABC Chicago's "I Love My Car" segment this month.> I believe mine was the first LBC ever featured. Now it's time to vote for> "Car of the Month." Help! Give me a vote!> > http://abclocal.go.com/wls/story?section=traffic&id=5690087> > Thanks,> Jim> > "68 GT6 MKI> _______________________________________________> _______________________________________________> rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Nov 1 14:05:54 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 17:05:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Non LBC but Cool Message-ID: <001201c81cca$fff29a80$210110ac@bobspc> I don't live in a particularly large town (43,000) so I'm always surprised when there's a nationally known business here. I stumbled on http://www.cobraautomotive.com/ while surfing the internet and drove by their shop today. There were probably a 8-10 GT350 and GT500 along with a few Shelbys and an AC Cobra in the various bays and parked in the lot. And that doesn't even include the 4 or 5 race cars in various stages of prep. As cool as it was, I'd rather have a top quality LBC restoration here! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.17/1103 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 6:01 AM From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Nov 1 14:06:59 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 17:06:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale video on ebay In-Reply-To: <258406.65673.qm@web30909.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <258406.65673.qm@web30909.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8C9EAE2472E4FAA-BA8-5D7C@WEBMAIL-MC15.sysops.aol.com> I really liked the "headlights" that look suspiciously like a rearview mirror, and the "air conditioning" that on my car is the vent in front of the windshield. Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Joe Merone To: 6 Pack list <6pack at autox.team.net>; Triumph List Sent: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 3:49 pm Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale video on ebay I know that they can't possibly know everything about every car on the lot - but I always get a kick out of car salemen talking up the attributes of a TR6. Check out this video for a TR6 for sale on ebay. Everything is "terrific, amazing, etc. etc." http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR-6-WE-FINANCE-PERFECT-1971-TRIUMPH-TR6-64KMI-CONVERTIBLE-VIDEO-DEMO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ80757QQihZ014QQitemZ330183320987QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Nov 1 14:26:12 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 17:26:12 EDT Subject: [TR] "59 TR3 for sale. Message-ID: In a message dated 10/29/2007 9:38:24 AM Mountain Daylight Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: At the gas station a guy in a Caddy asked if I wanted to buy another TR. He has a "59 TR3 that has sat in his driveway for years. I have not seen it but he says it will run. He thinks he wants $5,000. His number is 831-336-2410. His name is Tag. You can say you got the information from Tom on the Triumphs list. paste the phone number into Google and you'll find his name and address in California.... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Nov 1 14:29:15 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 17:29:15 EDT Subject: [TR] Looking for a TRiumph 2000 Message-ID: In a message dated 10/29/2007 10:49:25 AM Mountain Daylight Time, standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: Anyone out there have a Triumph 2000 that's in need of some attention that > they would part with? I'd prefer a '60's model MKI /w a 4-speed, but I > guess > here in the states, ya' gotta take what ya' can get! Plenty here in the UK, Todd - but I guess all of them will be RH steer. I There were some lefties....I had one as a young man in about 72-73...it was a late 60's 2000 that I was never able to make run. I ended up trading it for something....don't remember what right now. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From DLylis at aol.com Thu Nov 1 14:41:43 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 17:41:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Tappet failure Message-ID: Any motor with flat tappets, British or not, is prone to failure with "modern" oils. There are a few choices for oil with ZDDP. Valvoline VR1 Racing is one, but there are others. It is highly recommended to switch to one and stay with it. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Nov 1 14:42:25 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 17:42:25 EDT Subject: [TR] FW: [Fot] Just Sick - car stolen Message-ID: In a message dated 10/29/2007 4:16:20 PM Mountain Daylight Time, trhouse at greenapple.com writes: Came home from a 5 day trip to find only the remnants of the smashed receiver lock where my trailer, containing my TR250 race car, was when I left. I guess I will never understand a theif, but I really cant understand one that would steal such a car as this. The market for these cars, or ever as parts, as much as I'd love to have one, is pretty small. Surely if someone showed up with this car, even re-painted, at a race, plenty of people would recognize it. A year or so ago, someone stole an MG T series from a fellows drivew way, in a trailer, very similar story. It was an award winning restoration, but again, where would you sell one???? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From ambritts at bellsouth.net Thu Nov 1 15:04:25 2007 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 18:04:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy References: Message-ID: <00d901c81cd3$2b725710$6401a8c0@STATION6> I had this annoying situation also. Complete front end overhaul in my restoration. Steel wheels (TR6) issue. Always between 50-55 mph. Then I found the problem. Quite simple and relatively easy to find and fix. The problem was with the hub itself. Ran a straight edge across the flat of the hub between the studs. Nice little rocking effect. One wheel out .035" the other .070" via runout gauge. Removed the hub and had the face turned on a lathe at work (after removing studs). Replaced them and no shimmy from 0-100 mph. Checked this on my TR3A restoration and found the same thing to a slightly lesser degree. Applied same lathe work and mounted my new wire wheels with bias white walls. Balancing done by Steele Motors in PA. Upon start up and go 0-90mph no shimmy. Just another thing to look for. I have shared this with a few others who discovered the same thing. Had the hubs turned and the shimmy went away. Just FYI. Alex Manzo 72 TR6 59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 7:28 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel Shimmy >I assume that the Morgan owners all have wire wheels? Accelerating, > although it may seem counterintuitive, actually makes sense. Decelerating > may/probably/will have the same effect. I will bet that the vibration is > set up at 55 > - 60 mph and goes away as you accelerate through that. This is a very > common malady and can, and does, occur with steel wheels as well. This > can be > trued and balanced out. This is a "harmonic" set up at that rotational > speed. > Wouldn't you think that it would get worse as the rotational speed > increases? > For the most part it doesn't. I have had it at 55 - 60 but the car > settles > down as I approach 70 -80-90 mph. The annoying part is that you drive > most > of the time at 55 - 60. I have allowed myself some "wiggle room" in my > statements because sometimes the wheel is so far out that it does not > conform to > what I have said here. > I am by no means an officianado on Morgans, in fact know very little about > them. What I recommend is that you call Alan Hendrix at Hendrix Wire > Wheel. > NFI. He talks for free. He trues and balances for cash. He can help > you > understand this phenomenon, as he did with me. > He may confirm that Morgan has an inherent flaw that causes wheel shimmy, > but I were a betting man I would bet not. I may lose! > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Nov 1 16:13:40 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 23:13:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters Message-ID: <110120072313.15670.472A5DA40005948600003D3622165384969C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Sorry I didn't remember this when it first came up, but I actually ordered the wrong type for my '59 TR3A (TS 58667). I ordered the smooth letters because I thought they looked cooler. But unfortunately, when I tried to install them, the spacing of the prongs on the back of the smooth letters did not match up with the holes made for the ribbed letters. I reordered the ribbed letters and they popped right in. (I think I still have the new smooth ones I didn't use. Am gonna have to get rid of all that leftover stuff one of these days....) Terry Smith New Hampshire From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Nov 1 16:21:05 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 16:21:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Ribbed or Smooth Letters In-Reply-To: <8C9EAA3C331DFD7-670-6AD4@FWM-D02.sysops.aol.com> References: <8C9EAA3C331DFD7-670-6AD4@FWM-D02.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Not just spacing... the layout of the holes is totally different (except perhaps for the letter 'I'). There is a nice chart on page 69 of the Moss TR2/3/4 catalog that shows how the 2 styles' mounting holes were positioned. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: >With the ribbed v smooth letters, though, I believe the > spacing is somewhat different, although I'd have to measure up holes > for both to confirm that. I do know the ribbed letters are > significantly wider. From wbeech at flash.net Thu Nov 1 16:34:12 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 17:34:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] tubes In-Reply-To: <008401c81cc3$e33745f0$90d4299b@ad.bu.edu> Message-ID: <20071102003231.089681879F0@autox.team.net> Ron, I can't think of any reason why not with the exception that it will alter the balance just a smidge. Did someone say you could not? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron L Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 2:15 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tubes Why can't you patch a puncture in a tube? You can still buy tube repair kits. Ron L _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.17/1103 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 6:01 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.17/1103 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 6:01 AM From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Nov 1 16:36:36 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 16:36:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy In-Reply-To: <20071031141941.QRXK15880.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20071031141941.QRXK15880.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <7F0A4F762B7948DA8B3714861A273823@GeoPC> This would seem to be something that a skilled machinist could readily make. I have a drawing of the idea (came with my wire wheels) and, of course, a wheel. Someone in our club has a significant other who is a gunsmith & machinist and has asked if anyone needed lathe work. I suppose the one other thing would be to know the diameter of the shaft the cone mounts on on the balancing machine. This would seem to be a good club project with the club holding onto the tool and lending it out to be taken to the tire shop for their use & returned. I have spoken to a local tire shop and they (say they) are willing to use this to balance wires (probably because of the tires they will sell if they will do this). I drive a bit too much and buy tires a bit to often to be shipping them off somewhere everytime I get a new set. Am I missing something here or is this a reasonable approach? Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" > The proper cones are very rare, especially outside of places that > specialize > in wire wheels (like Hendrix and Valley Wire Wheel in Van Nuys, CA) but > they > do exist. From wbeech at flash.net Thu Nov 1 16:44:15 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 17:44:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy In-Reply-To: <7F0A4F762B7948DA8B3714861A273823@GeoPC> Message-ID: <20071102004235.355A81879F4@autox.team.net> Someone here in Utah, member of the BMCU has made such a tool. I don't remember who but maybe he will join the discussion and provide a picture or diagram. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo & Kathleen Hahn Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 5:37 PM To: Randall; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel Shimmy This would seem to be something that a skilled machinist could readily make. I have a drawing of the idea (came with my wire wheels) and, of course, a wheel. Someone in our club has a significant other who is a gunsmith & machinist and has asked if anyone needed lathe work. I suppose the one other thing would be to know the diameter of the shaft the cone mounts on on the balancing machine. This would seem to be a good club project with the club holding onto the tool and lending it out to be taken to the tire shop for their use & returned. I have spoken to a local tire shop and they (say they) are willing to use this to balance wires (probably because of the tires they will sell if they will do this). I drive a bit too much and buy tires a bit to often to be shipping them off somewhere everytime I get a new set. Am I missing something here or is this a reasonable approach? Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" > The proper cones are very rare, especially outside of places that > specialize in wire wheels (like Hendrix and Valley Wire Wheel in Van > Nuys, CA) but they do exist. _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.17/1103 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 6:01 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.17/1103 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 6:01 AM From ambritts at bellsouth.net Thu Nov 1 16:49:27 2007 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 19:49:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Re: Wheel Shimmy References: <00d901c81cd3$2b725710$6401a8c0@STATION6> <001101c81ce0$31f94190$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <01b001c81ce1$d7382760$6401a8c0@STATION6> Actually, the car really was not complete to the point of even going 90 mph. But we all know what happens when you get behind the wheel for the first time after coming out of a restoration in your garage. (Even if it is not complete) Once I transported it 1100 miles on a trailer to its new home I put it up on a friends lift and half the nuts were loose including the steering. But it since has made the journey over that advertised mark, and yes they do go over 100. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Bratt" To: "Alex" ; Cc: "Triumph List" ; "Sixpack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 7:37 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Re: [TR] Wheel Shimmy > Alex: > > >Checked this on my TR3A restoration and found the same thing to a >>slightly lesser degree. Applied same lathe work and mounted my new wire >>wheels with bias white walls. Balancing done by Steele Motors in PA. Upon >>start up and go 0-90mph no shimmy. > > Only 90 MPH ? But I thought the TR3A was the 100MPH sports > car......"Triumph truly hit its stride with the TR3A - improved comfort, > performance and reliability. Standard discs up front were ground-breaking > in 1960; 100MPH top ..." > > Ed Bratt > Regina, Saskatchewan > > 1976 TR6 From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Thu Nov 1 17:10:37 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 20:10:37 EDT Subject: [TR] FW: [Fot] Just Sick - car stolen Message-ID: In a message dated 11/1/07 4:43:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, BearTranserv at aol.com writes: << I guess I will never understand a theif, but I really cant understand one that would steal such a car as this. >> The concessus on other lists is the thieves are after the trailer and what is inside is just a secondary bonus. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 1 18:39:36 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 17:39:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy In-Reply-To: <7F0A4F762B7948DA8B3714861A273823@GeoPC> Message-ID: <20071102003936.OGKS18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Am I missing something here or is this a reasonable approach? Before you go having them custom-machined, might be worth asking Hunter (or whoever made your local shop's machine) if they offer suitable cones. Another possibility would be to use one of the adapter plates that locates via the lug holes, and bolt a spline adapter to it. Never seen this myself, but I've read about it. I still think the best method is on-car balancing. That way you balance not only the wheel and tire, but all the rotating components. Although rare, it is possible to have a brake drum or hub be out of balance enough to cause problems. And this also points out any problems with distorted hubs, etc. Now that I have a wire wheel Triumph again, I should probably resume my search for a used on-car balancer at a reasonable price. BTW, there's a nice drawing of how to grip a center-lock wire wheel for balancing at http://www.mwsint.com/Fitting.htm Either scroll down or click the "Balancing Centre Lock Wire Wheels" link. Randall From gregbengeult at comcast.net Thu Nov 1 18:01:01 2007 From: gregbengeult at comcast.net (Greg Bengeult) Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 18:01:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheel Shimmy In-Reply-To: <20071102003936.OGKS18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20071102003936.OGKS18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <472A76CD.5030809@comcast.net> Randall wrote: > > I still think the best method is on-car balancing. That way you balance not > only the wheel and tire, but all the rotating components. Although rare, it > is possible to have a brake drum or hub be out of balance enough to cause > problems. And this also points out any problems with distorted hubs, etc. > I can attest to the fact that hubs and brake rotors can be out of balance. I don't have wire wheels -- I started out with steel and graduated to alloy. I chased a 60 MPH shimmy for a long time, through two sets of wheels, and I was only able to get rid of it by replacing my front brake rotors. Greg From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 1 19:10:25 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 18:10:25 -0800 Subject: [TR] tubes In-Reply-To: <008401c81cc3$e33745f0$90d4299b@ad.bu.edu> Message-ID: <20071102011025.BCEG25347.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Why can't you patch a puncture in a tube? Who said you can't ?? However, like tires, they get old and should be replaced from time to time. Although perhaps not strictly necessary, I've always heard that you should replace the tube when the tire is worn out. Randall From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu Thu Nov 1 18:19:43 2007 From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet) Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 18:19:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] 165 tires, etc.... Message-ID: <472A7B2F.3020902@mrl.ucsb.edu> Hi, Folks, I offer this afterthought to the 165 SR 15 tire availability thread...... The premier website for aircooled VW enthusiasts is http://www.thesamba.com , and on this site you can find 15" tires in some truly WEIRD sizes. i.e., how about a low-profile 165/45-15 tire or at 175/55-15 designed for a 'Smart' car? Or a 135/80-15? You can even find stock size tires if that's your cup of tea. The aircooled VW tuner set likes to 'slam' ( that's hip slang for lower ) their cars, and they have to employ some odd sizes to make it all work sometimes. Lowered bugs often run on 135 series tires up front to keep from rubbing the fenders. If nothing else, if you've never seen the website you'll find it interesting in the staggering amount of availability of cars and parts. I guess that sort of thing is to be expected after a 20 million car production run. OH, and re: the whole 55 mph wobbly tire issue.....I had that problem too when I first got my TR4. Replacing the 25 year old XZXs that had morphed into a substance with the consistency and road holding properties of bakelite solved the problem. -jeffrey From triosan at gmail.com Thu Nov 1 20:56:10 2007 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 20:56:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] update on my stolen TR5 race car Message-ID: <8cbd782d0711012056naaff266q24187e66986a8355@mail.gmail.com> Well, much to my surprise, the trailer stolen Sunday was recovered today in a quiet residential neighborhood in Kent, Wa, about 20 miles from where I live in Seattle. Sadly, no car. Thieves went to a lot of work to force open the drop down back door of the enclosed Wells Cargo type trailer. Do not know what they are possibly going to do with it. Sure had to work hard to push it around with the welded diff. Can sell the wheels [Koenig rewinds in a brown color with nearly new 205x60x15 Yokohama A08s], fuel cell [new this year 12 gallon Fuel safe], fuel pump [Bosch 160 psi], regulator, aluminum radiator, Optima battery, Accusump and racing seat. Not much else. They will never get it started [broken throttle cable] as the PI is very tricky to get the cold start lever right, and even then it takes a lot of cranking. OH, I suppose they could also sell he Konis. I expect it will get stripped, chopped up and dumped in the Sound. Very sad end to such a pretty bridesmaid. She was ready to race, but has never done yet. None-the-less, I will find and/or build a replacement and have it ready for the SOVREN kick off in mid-April. Sigh. -- Chuck Arnold From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Nov 1 04:31:23 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 07:31:23 EDT Subject: [TR] Fwd: For sale Message-ID: I am forwarding this E-mail I received. I have no knowledge of the car, nor do I have any financial interest. Dave In a message dated 10/31/2007 9:13:19 PM Central Daylight Time, jdevans at quixnet.net writes: > Sir, > > > > I am writing you to see if any of your club members are interested in > purchasing a 1969 Triumph GT6+. It is all original equipment and the engine > and drive train only have 65,000 original miles. I was intending on doing a > full restoration but after two years of job and family I've made very little > progress and feel I'll never have enough time for a full restoration. Should > you have someone interested they can reach me @816-257-0744 > > I'm asking $1,000.00 > > I have additional special tools I'll through in with the car. > > Independence, MO Return-Path: Received: from rly-mb04.mail.aol.com (rly-mb04.mail.aol.com [172.20.118.140]) by air-mb04.mail.aol.com (v120.9) with ESMTP id MAILINMB41-e647293633104; Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:13:19 -0400 Received: from liaag1ac.mx.compuserve.com (liaag1ac.mx.compuserve.com [149.174.40.29]) by rly-mb04.mail.aol.com (v120.9) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINMB410-e647293633104; Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:13:07 -0400 Received: (from mailgate at localhost) by liaag1ac.mx.compuserve.com (8.13.6/8.13.4/g1.2) id lA12D7qS011907 for dave1massey at cs.com; Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:13:07 -0400 Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:09:17 -0400 From: "Janie & Dennis Evans" Subject: For sale Sender: jdevans at quixnet.net To: dave1massey at cs.com Reply-To: "Janie & Dennis Evans" Message-ID: <200710312209_MC3-1-F361-2E24 at compuserve.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-AOL-IP: 149.174.40.29 X-AOL-SCOLL-AUTHENTICATION: listenair ; SPF_helo : X-AOL-SCOLL-AUTHENTICATION: listenair ; SPF_822_from : X-Mailer: Unknown (No Version) X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/mixed by demime 1.01d X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain Sender: jdevans at quixnet.net Received: from smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com (smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com [68.142.198.209]) by liaag2aa.mx.compuserve.com (8.13.6/8.13.4/g1.2) with SMTP id lA129CoB025358 for <105671.471 at compuserve.com>; Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:09:13 -0400 Received: (qmail 571 invoked from network); 1 Nov 2007 02:09:12 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO dennis) (jdevansmo at sbcglobal.net@208.190.202.54 with login) by smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com with SMTP; 1 Nov 2007 02:09:12 -0000 X-YMail-OSG: 3cWp17AVM1mSpljjNbbiKCJHevdw0TAzS4wnaYMgAHVYmm8FwQGJp0VAaGTyqakEFtP09RFN2Q-- From: "Janie & Dennis Evans" To: <105671.471 at compuserve.com> Subject: For sale Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:09:12 -0500 Message-ID: <000001c81c2c$32abae70$4301a8c0 at dennis> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0001_01C81C02.49D5A670" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.6822 Importance: Normal Thread-Index: AcgcLB1h2+D+GeH3S5mRLdHBpMPniA== X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.3198 X-Virus-Scanned: ClamAV version 0.91.1, clamav-milter version 0.91.1 on liaag2aa.mx.compuserve.com X-Virus-Status: Clean Sir, I am writing you to see if any of your club members are interested in purchasing a 1969 Triumph GT6+. It is all original equipment and the engine and drive train only have 65,000 original miles. I was intending on doing a full restoration but after two years of job and family I've made very little progress and feel I'll never have enough time for a full restoration. Should you have someone interested they can reach me @816-257-0744 I'm asking $1,000.00 I have additional special tools I'll through in with the car. Independence, MO [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream] From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Fri Nov 2 04:12:07 2007 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 07:12:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] speaking of tires Message-ID: <00b001c81d41$34dce270$6700a8c0@andy> I am currently changing my TR3A wire wheels to alloys (5.5 wide). What would be a good size tire to put on the alloys? According to the tire size guide on Cokers web site, the 165R15 that I already have on my wires are a match. Any better recommendations? TIA Andy No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.17/1103 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 6:01 AM From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 2 04:15:24 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 07:15:24 EDT Subject: [TR] speaking of tires Message-ID: Move up to a 185. In a "classic style" tire like a Vredestein Classic Sport you will get more rubber on the road and maintain the look of the car. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From jmerone at rocketmail.com Fri Nov 2 05:42:28 2007 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 05:42:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Double messages received through Yahoo (digest mode) Message-ID: <508978.69467.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I have a Yahoo e-mail account and have recently switched over to their new mail viewing system. Not bad, except now all postings I receive inside a Triumph List digest message are listed twice. No other e-mail sent to me from anyone gets this treatment. When I switch back to their "classic" mode, it's not there. Anyone else experiencing this? Anyone else experiencing this? Any ideas Mark? Joe Merone CF18928 Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From auprichard at comcast.net Fri Nov 2 05:57:44 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 08:57:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel pump blanking plate In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000301c81d4f$f62152a0$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Sorry to send this to everyone, but I am looking for my friend Frank in California who has been making and selling fuel pump blanking plates (he has a great life.......) Hey Frank, what thickness are the plates ? Thin ones tend to leak and I need a good seal after fitting my Webers. Let me know. Thanks ! Andrew Uprichard From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Nov 2 05:58:04 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 08:58:04 EDT Subject: [TR] [Fot] update on my stolen TR5 race car Message-ID: Chuck! I admire your great attitude over the whole thing. I know the amount of effort that you have put into this car, since the time that Jan & I delivered this car to you, with a trip over the mountains. It occurs to me that, if these guys DID have any idea of this "TR5", it may be in a container headed for Japan or Australia with a buyer waiting at the other end. Of course, we are all standing by, to help get you back on the track. Joe Alexander > Well, much to my surprise, the trailer stolen Sunday was recovered today in > a quiet residential neighborhood in Kent, Wa, about 20 miles from where I > live in Seattle. Sadly, no car. Thieves went to a lot of work to force > open the drop down back door of the enclosed Wells Cargo type trailer. Do > not know what they are possibly going to do with it. Sure had to work hard > to push it around with the welded diff. > > Can sell the wheels [Koenig rewinds in a brown color with nearly new > 205x60x15 Yokohama A08s], fuel cell [new this year 12 gallon Fuel safe], > fuel pump [Bosch 160 psi], regulator, aluminum radiator, Optima battery, > Accusump and racing seat. Not much else. They will never get it started > [broken throttle cable] as the PI is very tricky to get the cold start lever > right, and even then it takes a lot of cranking. OH, I suppose they could > also sell he Konis. I expect it will get stripped, chopped up and dumped in > the Sound. Very sad end to such a pretty bridesmaid. She was ready to > race, but has never done yet. > > None-the-less, I will find and/or build a replacement and have it ready for > the SOVREN kick off in mid-April. Sigh. > > -- > Chuck Arnold > _______________________________________________ > From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Nov 2 08:35:03 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 11:35:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel pump blanking plate In-Reply-To: <000301c81d4f$f62152a0$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> References: <000301c81d4f$f62152a0$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <000e01c81d65$f1eaabd0$210110ac@bobspc> Frank's email is FGFO1 at aol.com and the plate he makes for the TR6 is 1/4" thick and hasn't leaked a drop in the 2 years I've had it on. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 8:58 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Fuel pump blanking plate Sorry to send this to everyone, but I am looking for my friend Frank in California who has been making and selling fuel pump blanking plates (he has a great life.......) Hey Frank, what thickness are the plates ? Thin ones tend to leak and I need a good seal after fitting my Webers. Let me know. Thanks ! Andrew Uprichard This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.18/1104 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 6:47 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.18/1104 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 6:47 PM From tr250 at mindspring.com Fri Nov 2 08:58:11 2007 From: tr250 at mindspring.com (TR250) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 11:58:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] New Triumph Herald Message-ID: <001a01c81d69$2b621940$6501a8c0@VAIO> Page 36 this month's Car & Driver. Top right corner. Maybe they are bringing back the Herald Convertible. Sure looks like a picture I've seen before. Mark Walker From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 2 09:17:01 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 09:17:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel pump blanking plate References: <000301c81d4f$f62152a0$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> <000e01c81d65$f1eaabd0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <004601c81d6b$ccf25980$2d02a8c0@Belkin> The ones I have made of mild steel is 3/16 thick and have worked fine for me. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" ; Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 8:35 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Fuel pump blanking plate > Frank's email is FGFO1 at aol.com and the plate he makes for the TR6 is 1/4" > thick and hasn't leaked a drop in the 2 years I've had it on. > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard > Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 8:58 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Fuel pump blanking plate > > Sorry to send this to everyone, but I am looking for my friend Frank in > California who has been making and selling fuel pump blanking plates (he has > a great life.......) > > Hey Frank, what thickness are the plates ? Thin ones tend to leak and I > need a good seal after fitting my Webers. Let me know. Thanks ! > > Andrew Uprichard > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.18/1104 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 > 6:47 PM > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.18/1104 - Release Date: 11/1/2007 > 6:47 PM > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Nov 2 10:11:14 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 10:11:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <6EC232CD03F745B080BA7E819DC969E6@GeoPC> A friend is seriously considering this TR6 (item number 110185473663 in case the link doesn't work). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-Triumph-TR6-Roadster-Beautiful-British-Co nvertible_W0QQitemZ110185473663QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item110185473663 He would be dealing in person with the seller after the auction ends, thus being able to drive the car, have a competent mechanic examine it, etc. I mentioned to him the common problem areas I have heard about on 6's (thrust washers, trailing arms, broken diff mounts) and of course mentioned several times to check everywhere for rust &/or rust repair. He has reviewed the various Buying Guides on the VTR site and elsewhere. Just looking at the listing it appears the color is non-original (though I have to say it is striking color in the pics) and that the tires seem pretty skinny for a TR6 (165x15). It does not have Overdrive which he thinks is okay but which I think he'll lust for eventually. Obviously someone has gone to a lot of trouble to detail the car for sale and all cars can be 95-pointers with digitial photography, but I would appreciate any comments on the car as presented -- whether red flags or just items that should be considered or used as bargaining points. Thanks for any & all help. Geo From red_tr250 at hotmail.com Fri Nov 2 10:56:29 2007 From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 13:56:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <6EC232CD03F745B080BA7E819DC969E6@GeoPC> References: <6EC232CD03F745B080BA7E819DC969E6@GeoPC> Message-ID: I don't see any obvious issues on this one...unlike the video of the other car. It's missing (or i don't see) the charcoal canister...and probably the anti-run on valve...just guessing cus it's all kinda tied together. As far as paint goes...hard to tell form pics. Makes you wonder what the original color was? The engine compartment doesn't look quite as shiny as the rest of the car. Cheers, Todd > From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 10:11:14 -0700 > Subject: [TR] (no subject) > > A friend is seriously considering this TR6 (item number 110185473663 in case > the link doesn't work). > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-Triumph-TR6-Roadster-Beautiful-British-Co > nvertible_W0QQitemZ110185473663QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item110185473663 > > He would be dealing in person with the seller after the auction ends, thus > being able to drive the car, have a competent mechanic examine it, etc. > > I mentioned to him the common problem areas I have heard about on 6's (thrust > washers, trailing arms, broken diff mounts) and of course mentioned several > times to check everywhere for rust &/or rust repair. > > He has reviewed the various Buying Guides on the VTR site and elsewhere. > > Just looking at the listing it appears the color is non-original (though I > have to say it is striking color in the pics) and that the tires seem pretty > skinny for a TR6 (165x15). It does not have Overdrive which he thinks is okay > but which I think he'll lust for eventually. > > Obviously someone has gone to a lot of trouble to detail the car for sale and > all cars can be 95-pointers with digitial photography, but I would appreciate > any comments on the car as presented -- whether red flags or just items that > should be considered or used as bargaining points. > > Thanks for any & all help. > > Geo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble challenge with star power. From diggle at clear.net.nz Fri Nov 2 13:27:42 2007 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis) Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2007 20:27:42 -0000 Subject: [TR] Stolen TR250 Message-ID: <000d01c805fc$1b28df20$6c5465da@athlon> I was sorry to hear about your TR being stolen. The import regulations into New Zealand and Australia are very onerous and unless we can prove that the purchased is legitimate we can never put it on the road here and it might even be stopped by customs from coming in if was obviously a complete car without good papers. I always thought that if a TR was stolen in Australia or New Zealand that they are not valuable enough (say like US$50,000) to bother sending overseas. It could well be disposed of. I hope you get it is not and you get it back. It would greatly upset me to lose the car I've had for 22 years. PS I am sure that a TR4 or similar was stolen from Victoria Australia a year or two back so it does happen occasionally. From bill_beecher at flash.net Fri Nov 2 13:37:36 2007 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill beecher) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 14:37:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] Dzus Fastener Removal Message-ID: <20071102213551.076E11879F7@autox.team.net> OK, I'm an idiot as is my engineer neighbor. How do you remove the Dzus fastener from the bonnet of a TR3? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 2 14:44:09 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 13:44:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] Dzus Fastener Removal In-Reply-To: <20071102213551.076E11879F7@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20071102204409.UJN28086.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > How do you remove the Dzus fastener from the bonnet of a TR3? I don't know how others have done it ... I cut through the washer mostly with a Dremel & cutoff wheel, then used pliers to flex what remained until it broke. Randall From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Nov 2 13:45:38 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 13:45:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dzus Fastener Removal In-Reply-To: <20071102213551.076E11879F7@autox.team.net> References: <20071102213551.076E11879F7@autox.team.net> Message-ID: It is usually held captive by a (thin) washer that has been crushed into position. You would have to cut thru that washer to remove the Dzus. Replacement washers are available for the re-install. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "bill beecher" To: Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 1:37 PM Subject: [TR] Dzus Fastener Removal > OK, I'm an idiot as is my engineer neighbor. > > How do you remove the Dzus fastener from the bonnet of a TR3? From cartr4a at ameritech.net Fri Nov 2 15:06:32 2007 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 15:06:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Vote for Me! Message-ID: <416637.62769.qm@web80205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Many thanks to all those who voted for my GT6 in the ABC "Car of the Month" contest. We have a winner! An LBC will rule for the next month! http://abclocal.go.com/wls/story?section=traffic&id=5690087 Thanks again, Jim '68 GT6 MKI http://www.geocities.com/britishiron2000 From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Nov 2 15:57:41 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2007 16:57:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Vote for Me! In-Reply-To: <416637.62769.qm@web80205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <416637.62769.qm@web80205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <472BAB65.8070207@tscusa.org> Jim wrote: > Many thanks to all those who voted for my GT6 in the ABC "Car of the Month" contest. We have a winner! An LBC will rule for the next month! > > http://abclocal.go.com/wls/story?section=traffic&id=5690087 > > Thanks again, > Jim > '68 GT6 MKI > http://www.geocities.com/britishiron2000 > So does this mean you get Roz for a month too? -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Nov 2 17:40:32 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 20:40:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fan Wiring Success! RADIATOR NEEDED! Message-ID: <032b01c81db2$25f7a530$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I achieved success today with continued experimenting with wiring up my electric fan. The problem had been because I had failed to completely wire up the ignition switch. Thanks goes to Bob Danielson, who I bought the Spal relay fan from. Now I need a good radiator for a TR3- does anybody have one of those? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 2 18:13:25 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 21:13:25 EDT Subject: [TR] Fan Wiring Success! RADIATOR NEEDED! Message-ID: Paul, Good is a relative term. I have a 60 TR3A radiator that was functional when it was removed from the car about a year ago. It did not leak. It would need to be recored, IMHO. If you are interested let me know. I replaced it with a better looking one that I had to recore. Please don't ask for pictures for at least two weeks. My wife is away and has the digital with her. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Nov 2 20:49:33 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 23:49:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] do it yourself radiator fixin' Message-ID: <035601c81dcc$a3b0dc70$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've never done this before, but, why shouldn't I 'recore' a radiator myself? Posibly, using a $100 radiator from NAPA? If need be, I can use the top and bottom tanks from spare TR3 radiators. Is the 'coring' "just the right size" for our cars? Or is there some other thing I'm likely to mess up? I work with an expert soldering guy- he wouldn't mind! Please educate me!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 2 22:23:24 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 21:23:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] do it yourself radiator fixin' In-Reply-To: <035601c81dcc$a3b0dc70$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071103042324.THCG18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Posibly, using a $100 radiator from NAPA? Which one ? > If need be, I can > use the top and bottom tanks from spare TR3 radiators. Not just the tanks, but the side panels as well. > I work with an expert soldering guy- he wouldn't > mind! Please educate me!!!!!!!!!!!!! All I can say is that I consider myself a fair hand with a soldering gun or torch; but all of my attempts at even simple radiator repairs have not worked out. Possibly something about not having that great big vat of acid that the pros use, or maybe it's just that my torch isn't big enough to keep an entire tank at soldering temperature without overheating at least part of it. Or maybe it's something else. OTOH, you've got relatively little to lose by trying. Except a couple of radiators and time of course. Weren't you planning to drive this car some time this decade ? Randall From dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz Sat Nov 3 00:02:06 2007 From: dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz (Alan & Lyn Dunscombe) Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 20:02:06 +1300 Subject: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20071103195756.037020c0@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> Come on Randall, If, as I suspect, you are rebuilding your new TR3 project then stop mucking around with worms & pegs - "bite the bullet" and put in a good rack& pinion conversion. In my 25 years of owning TS3612 the single most impressive improvement I made was converting to rack & pinion steering several years ago. The troubles involved in getting a good setup with the original design, let alone maintaining it, are well documented on the list, and lets face it Triumph fixed it themselves in the TR4. I used the Revington conversion, the mounting brackets are very well designed and fit well, and they supply all the necessary parts to convert the column properly. Once welded in and the rack mounted it looks just as if the factory designed it that way. OK it is not cheap, but it is well engineered and your conversion rate to the UK pound is better than ours. As an added extra the conversion also corrects some of the steering geometry deficiencies in the original design. There are other cheaper conversions around but I believe theirs is the best. Another added bonus it that the steering becomes significantly lighter at parking speed, a much needed improvement with modern wider radial tyres. Go on, fit it. I guarantee you will not be disappointed. regards from "The Deep South" (where it is just coming up to early summer, & I took the TR out for a drive in shirt-sleeves this morning) Alan >Message: 8 >Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 21:07:36 -0700 >From: "Randall" >Subject: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation >To: "Triumphs" >Message-ID: <20071027040737.CAPX29317.mta9.adelphia.net at randall> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Moss seems to offer the worm itself, but not the steering shaft that it's >mounted on. Has anyone tried replacing their worm ? > >I see that TRF offers "rebuilt" assemblies for less than the worm from Moss; >but I have a good worm on a bad shaft plus a bad worm on a good shaft ... > >Any comments about the procedure or results would be appreciated. > >Randall > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > >End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 296 >**************************************** From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 3 04:06:09 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 07:06:09 EDT Subject: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation Message-ID: I got $o far into my rebuilt box by the time I realized I should have put in a rack that I sprained my back kicking myself in the a$$. Oh well, there is always the next TR3! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Sat Nov 3 04:49:43 2007 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 07:49:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A steering box questions Message-ID: <00d101c81e0f$a000d150$6700a8c0@andy> Does anyone have the torque values for the cover and end plate bolts? Speaking of torque values; is there a source document that has all values for the car? When I disassembled the box, there was no gasket on the end plate though the maintenance and parts manuals show one. Do the shims seal sufficiently, or should I put in a gasket? Once again, TIA. Andy No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1105 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 11:04 AM From dorpaul at negia.net Sat Nov 3 05:26:47 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 08:26:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] !Re: TR3A steering box questions References: <00d101c81e0f$a000d150$6700a8c0@andy> Message-ID: <037801c81e14$cefac7e0$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Andy, The shims are essential in determining proper tightness of steering! I used the same number I took off. I think Moss has them. Paul From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 3 06:33:03 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 05:33:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A steering box questions In-Reply-To: <00d101c81e0f$a000d150$6700a8c0@andy> Message-ID: <20071103123303.ZXCE18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Does anyone have the torque values for the cover and end plate bolts? As I recall, those are 5/16 bolts, so 13 ftlb should do. > Speaking of torque values; is there a source document that > has all values for the car? I don't believe the factory ever gave torque values for every fastener, only the ones they considered unusual or important. > When I disassembled the box, there was no gasket on the end > plate though the maintenance and parts manuals show one. Do > the shims seal sufficiently, or should I put in a gasket? I would suggest a gasket. Since your box has obviously been apart before, IMO you should also set the endplay with a dial indicator. Add shims until you can measure some endfloat, then subtract shims equal to the measured value (or .001"-.002" more). Enco usually has a dial indicator set on sale for under $20. Although it's a rarely used tool, IMO it's worth buying even if all you ever do is rebuild the steering box with it. The part number changes with every sale though, so go to http://www.use-enco.com and click on "Hot Deals", then "Measuring Tools", then "Enco Dial Indicators & Point Sets". Look for the set that includes a magnetic base. The point set isn't necessary for most jobs (including the steering box), but for $2 I bought one anyway. So this month's part number is RN625-1340. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 3 06:45:33 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 05:45:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071103124533.DJWB20672.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > I got $o far into my rebuilt box by the time I realized I > should have put in a rack that I sprained my back kicking > myself in the a$$. OTOH when I finally "rebuilt" my steering box, I was so happy with the results that I wondered why I hadn't done it years before. I even kept the old worm & bearings (even though they both showed signs of wear and damage), just replacing the peg, bushing & seal. And my original turn signal control still cancels (a feature that is lost with the R&P conversion). Not sure exactly what made the difference, since I made some other changes at the same time, but the result was great. Other things I did : 1) Filled the steering box with Valvoline full synthetic gear oil (it leaked too badly before to use this expensive oil). 2) Rebuilt the front suspension with Nylatron and brass bushings. 3) Replaced the "Silentblocs" with free-turning pivots. 4) Checked carefully that all pivots moved freely at each stage of assembly. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 3 07:08:49 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 06:08:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20071103195756.037020c0@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> Message-ID: <20071103130849.UUGK26225.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > If, as I suspect, you are rebuilding your new TR3 project > then stop mucking around with worms & pegs - "bite the > bullet" and put in a good rack& pinion conversion. No, actually, I haven't touched the 'new' TR3 almost since I got it. Been too busy with other things, like trying to get/keep a Stag on the road. But now that I know what can be done with a properly adjusted "worm & peg" box, I will definitely NOT be doing the conversion. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Besides, my new ARE Silentbloc replacements just arrived and I've simply GOT to try them out ! Randall From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Nov 3 06:28:18 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 13:28:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20071103195756.037020c0@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> References: <5.1.0.14.0.20071103195756.037020c0@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> Message-ID: I too have fitted the Revington rack and pinion conversion. The best improvement I have made to my TR. It takes some work to get everything aligned properly but it is worth every bit of the effort. My TR now drives as well or better than my T-Bird. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Nov 3 06:38:18 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 13:38:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] Silent blocks? Message-ID: 3) Replaced the "Silentblocs" with free-turning pivots. I have seen these mentioned several times. Forgive my ignorance but what are they, where are they, and what is their function? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Nov 3 06:40:25 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 13:40:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation In-Reply-To: <20071103124533.DJWB20672.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20071103124533.DJWB20672.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: When installing the Revington Rack and Pinion you can easily convert to a TR4 steering column and retain the canceling feature of the turn signals. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare! http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailne ws From vkwong at celestica.com Sat Nov 3 07:04:16 2007 From: vkwong at celestica.com (Vincent Kwong) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 10:04:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting Sat 11/03/2007 and will not return until Mon 11/12/2007. For business emergencies, please contact my manager Peter Barber at 416-448-6231. Regards, Vincent Kwong From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Nov 3 07:12:04 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 10:12:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <472C4974.9266.3067176@localhost> On 3 Nov 2007 at 10:04, Vincent Kwong wrote: > I will be out of the office starting Sat 11/03/2007 and will not > return until Mon 11/12/2007. If you see Jimmy Olsen, tell him we said hi. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.19/1106 - Release Date: 11/2/2007 9:46 PM From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Nov 3 08:25:38 2007 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 08:25:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Silent blocs Message-ID: FWIW if anyone is interested Joe Alexander told me the other day that he is manufacturing 50? new silent-blocs. NFI, just a pleased customer of his other products. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Nov 3 09:51:23 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 16:51:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Windwing Hinges Message-ID: <110320071651.4124.472CA70B000AE6F00000101C22155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> To the Listers who were interested in photos of the TR3A windwing hinges I fabricated, I've finally found the computer cable for our digital camera. Let me know if you're still interested and send along your e-mail address so you don't stay unhinged! Terry Smith, New Hampshire From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 3 10:32:28 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 13:32:28 EDT Subject: [TR] Silent blocks? Message-ID: They are the joint between the steering arm and the steering rod, and the idler arm and the steering rod. They are a taper pin that is bonded inside a steel bush with rubber so that when you turn the steering wheel the taper pin twists the rubber inside the steel bush and allows the steering to function. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 3 11:42:47 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 10:42:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Silent blocks? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071103174247.QPQS3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > 3) Replaced the "Silentblocs" with free-turning pivots. > > I have seen these mentioned several times. Forgive my > ignorance but what are they, where are they, and what is > their function? 'Silentbloc' is actually a generic term, but in this case refers to the joint between the center link (aka center tie rod) and Pitman arm (aka drop arm), plus the joint between the center link and the idler arm (aka idler lever). They consist of a center steel pin and an outer steel sleeve, with rubber bonded between the two steel parts. The design forces the rubber to distort as you turn the steering wheel from side to side. Only found on the TR2-3B (Mayflower, etc.), not the later cars with R&P steering. My goal was simply to find something that would last a bit longer, as mine seemed to fail in just a few years. However, it may be that the replacement design also lowers steering effort, since those rubber sleeves no longer have to distort as you turn the wheel. The ones I used last time came from British Frame and Engine (who I believe got them from Racetorations in the UK). They have a steel center pin that rides in a brass bushing. Still available, still kind of pricey ($100/pair on http://www.britishframeandengine.com/parts1.html ) However, Joe Alexander (aka ARE) has decided to reproduce them using Delrin instead of brass. I've heard you can order these direct from TRF now, but don't seem to find them on their website ... maybe someone else can chime in with a TRF part number & price. I got mine directly from Joe by emailing him at N197TR3 at cs.com . Sorry, I'm not sure of the price (I traded him some other parts he needed), but it's substantially less than the unit from BFE/Racetorations. HTH Randall From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Nov 3 10:44:27 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 11:44:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] do it yourself radiator fixin' In-Reply-To: <035601c81dcc$a3b0dc70$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <035601c81dcc$a3b0dc70$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <472CB37B.4070109@tscusa.org> Paul Dorsey wrote: > I've never done this before, but, why shouldn't I 'recore' a radiator myself? > Posibly, using a $100 radiator from NAPA? If need be, I can use the top and > bottom tanks from spare TR3 radiators. Is the 'coring' "just the right size" > for our cars? Or is there some other thing I'm likely to mess up? I work > with an expert soldering guy- he wouldn't mind! Please educate > me!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 > Paul, One thing for sure is that it is not rocket science, but it is a learned skill. If you have a safe work area, the right sized torch- type of gas - eye for temperature control and ability to clean and bend things to fit together properly and understand how to make the metal joint take solder over 100% of the joint without it flowing suddenly into the radiator tanks and clogging up some core tubes, it should not be an issue. However there is always that one thing you can not account for, and that is years of experience of doing thousands of radiator repairs, and knowing what works and what does not. Maybe that experience only provides for better shortcuts, or lack of experience provides for taking too much precaution and performing a superior repair you may not get at a radiator shop. So it your are a detail oriented person, you will probably end up with a better looking job once you break the learning curve. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Nov 3 11:12:45 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 14:12:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Silent blocks? References: <20071103174247.QPQS3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <003101c81e45$22bbd150$5918e247@DCS78M81> Mine came today direct from Joe. He and TRF are the same price and shipping was included. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2007 2:42 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Silent blocks? >> 3) Replaced the "Silentblocs" with free-turning pivots. >> >> I have seen these mentioned several times. Forgive my >> ignorance but what are they, where are they, and what is >> their function? > > 'Silentbloc' is actually a generic term, but in this case refers to the > joint between the center link (aka center tie rod) and Pitman arm (aka > drop > arm), plus the joint between the center link and the idler arm (aka idler > lever). They consist of a center steel pin and an outer steel sleeve, > with > rubber bonded between the two steel parts. The design forces the rubber > to > distort as you turn the steering wheel from side to side. Only found on > the > TR2-3B (Mayflower, etc.), not the later cars with R&P steering. > > My goal was simply to find something that would last a bit longer, as mine > seemed to fail in just a few years. However, it may be that the > replacement > design also lowers steering effort, since those rubber sleeves no longer > have to distort as you turn the wheel. > > The ones I used last time came from British Frame and Engine (who I > believe > got them from Racetorations in the UK). They have a steel center pin that > rides in a brass bushing. Still available, still kind of pricey > ($100/pair > on > http://www.britishframeandengine.com/parts1.html ) > > However, Joe Alexander (aka ARE) has decided to reproduce them using > Delrin > instead of brass. I've heard you can order these direct from TRF now, but > don't seem to find them on their website ... maybe someone else can chime > in > with a TRF part number & price. I got mine directly from Joe by emailing > him at N197TR3 at cs.com . Sorry, I'm not sure of the price (I traded him > some > other parts he needed), but it's substantially less than the unit from > BFE/Racetorations. From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Nov 3 11:29:33 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 18:29:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] Silent blocks? Message-ID: <110320071829.19049.472CBE0D000DB94100004A6922165279669C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > However, Joe Alexander (aka ARE) has decided to reproduce them using Delrin > instead of brass. I've heard you can order these direct from TRF now, but > don't seem to find them on their website ... maybe someone else can chime in > with a TRF part number & price. That would be TRF Part Number HP-301. They were on sale when I got them for $44.95, with shipping to NH at $10.25. Price may vary, since I believe TRF gives discounts to their better looking customers.... :o) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From bbrewer at tvwireless.net Sat Nov 3 11:39:40 2007 From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 11:39:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Have an Extra TR3 Alloy Oil Pan to Sell? Message-ID: I am looking for an TR3/TR4 alloy oil pan for sale. Does anyone have one they would sell me? BPNW has them for megabucks and I don't have that much tight now. TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA From auprichard at comcast.net Sat Nov 3 13:51:22 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 16:51:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Have an Extra TR3 Alloy Oil Pan to Sell? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000601c81e5b$4b4a0ae0$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> I assume you are referring to an alloy sump: I recently bought one (megabucks), but only because I cranked the TR3 up to around 155 bhp and was told it was essential. Is there any other reason for needing an alloy sump? Andrew PS. Sorry - several standard sumps, but no spare alloy............ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2007 2:40 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Have an Extra TR3 Alloy Oil Pan to Sell? I am looking for an TR3/TR4 alloy oil pan for sale. Does anyone have one they would sell me? BPNW has them for megabucks and I don't have that much tight now. TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 3 15:26:11 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 14:26:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] Silent blocks? In-Reply-To: <20071103174247.QPQS3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <20071103212610.GONU10856.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Randall babbled : > I got mine directly from Joe by > emailing him at N197TR3 at cs.com . Argh, fat-fingered again ! That should be N197TR4 at cs.com Sorry! Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 3 15:48:20 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 18:48:20 EDT Subject: [TR] Silent blocks? Message-ID: In a message dated 11/3/2007 12:49:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 'Silentbloc' is actually a generic term I always thought it was a Triumph (or LBC) term. Never could figure out what was silent about it, or bloc for that matter. As a generic term does it refer to the bonded rubber type or can it be fully rotational? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From jar at aldermanroad.net Sat Nov 3 15:48:58 2007 From: jar at aldermanroad.net (jar at aldermanroad.net) Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 17:48:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Pristine TR-4 hood availabe. Message-ID: <472CFADA.4080506@aldermanroad.net> I was going through some of my assortmented parts, and find that I have a pristine TR-4 hood. I'm not sure if it came off a -4 or 4A. Also, there were the "short" carb bulge hoods, and the "long" bulge hoods. Does anyone out there know the measurements for each? Contact me off list at: jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 3 17:30:51 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 16:30:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Silent blocks? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071103233050.HSVT28086.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > In a message dated 11/3/2007 12:49:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: >> 'Silentbloc' is actually a generic term > I always thought it was a Triumph (or LBC) term. Never could figure out what > was silent about it, or bloc for that matter. As a generic term does it refer to > the bonded rubber type or can it be fully rotational? AFAIK, it refers to the bonded rubber construction. By "generic" I meant the term applies to many different bushings, it's actually a brand name I believe. http://www.empirerubber.com.au/ie/silentbloc.shtml Also used in the rear springs on a TR2-4, and the rear subframe on a Stag, plus no doubt other places I didn't think of. Randall From dorpaul at negia.net Sat Nov 3 17:53:37 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 20:53:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 bonnet gap reduction Message-ID: <039101c81e7d$23f5dd80$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I find huge, ugly gaps on ALL ALONG both bonnet SIDES when I tentively lay my bonnet down where it normally shuts. Unfortuneatly, our normal fender beading won't cover this gulley. The gaps I speak of are between the bonnet and the semi-mounted fender (none of the top fender bolts have been tightened yet). I also haven't mounted the front apron yet, but since it's the exact same width as the bonnet (in the front) I know it will ALSO have the same ugly size gap. I have a picture available (upon request) that shows this huge gap between the fender & hood, and fender & apron. It measures about 5/8" on each side. I would think this ought to be about 1/4" on each side. Some of the 'fix' might have been to have made all the angles 90 degrees like the factory intended an unmounted fender to have. Another major 'fix' was an idea given me by Bill Beech and I wonder if others have tried it with success. His idea was to simply wedge in some more aluminum wafers(?) at the front inner fender body mounts. In fact, these might have to be 'wedge-shaped' in order to roll or twist the fenders just a TINY bit thereby reducing the width. Is this an acceptable idea to reduce gap width? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Nov 3 13:00:43 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 16:00:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Have an Extra TR3 Alloy Oil Pan to Sell? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200711031500.43723.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 03 November 2007 01:39 pm, William Brewer wrote: > I am looking for an TR3/TR4 alloy oil pan for sale. Does anyone > have one they would sell me? > BPNW has them for megabucks and I don't have that much tight now. > TIA, > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA Bill, You may want to check with TRF. They had them on sale last week but according to TRF's newsletter, they are now out of stock and are ordering more for the flood of requests. Bob From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sat Nov 3 18:23:05 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 21:23:05 EDT Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Have an Extra TR3 Alloy Oil Pan to Sell? Message-ID: In a message dated 11/3/2007 1:51:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: I assume you are referring to an alloy sump: I recently bought one (megabucks), but only because I cranked the TR3 up to around 155 bhp and was told it was essential. Is there any other reason for needing an alloy sump? Andrew My TR3 is a little hot, but I wanted the passive cooling effect of having all that oil in a finned reservoir. I also added an oil temp gauge. I imagine there is now more oil in the engine than water! Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 3 18:24:00 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 21:24:00 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 bonnet gap reduction Message-ID: Paul, On my '60, measuring the distance from hole center to hole center on the inner fender, right inner fender to left inner fender, where the outer fender bolts up, second hole from the bulkhead is 45 1/2" . At the level of the parking lights the distance between the outer fender to outer fender (bead removed) was 46 3/8". Did you weld on new inner fenders? The hole in the fender to attach to the inner fender is quite large for a 5/16 bolt to allow for adjustment. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz Sat Nov 3 17:53:01 2007 From: dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz (Alan & Lyn Dunscombe) Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 13:53:01 +1300 Subject: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20071104134825.039060c8@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> Fair enough call Randall, if it works fine for you. The new Silentbloc replacements certainly sound worthwhile. I know that I wouldn't reverse my Rack & pinion conversion for anything. Regards Alan >Message: 3 >Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 06:08:49 -0800 >From: "Randall" >Subject: Re: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation >To: >Message-ID: <20071103130849.UUGK26225.mta15.adelphia.net at randall> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > If, as I suspect, you are rebuilding your new TR3 project > > then stop mucking around with worms & pegs - "bite the > > bullet" and put in a good rack& pinion conversion. > >No, actually, I haven't touched the 'new' TR3 almost since I got it. Been >too busy with other things, like trying to get/keep a Stag on the road. > >But now that I know what can be done with a properly adjusted "worm & peg" >box, I will definitely NOT be doing the conversion. "If it ain't broke, >don't fix it". > >Besides, my new ARE Silentbloc replacements just arrived and I've simply GOT >to try them out ! > >Randall From dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz Sat Nov 3 18:24:26 2007 From: dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz (Alan & Lyn Dunscombe) Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 14:24:26 +1300 Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20071104135315.04198118@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> And now for something completely ......... For those of you (like me) who revel in the sound of a tuned LBC running with minimal exhaust muffling, [& I have to admit that a 6 cyl. TR, Healey or Jag motor sounds even better than a 4 cylinder TR(actor) motor] dream on this one. I was outside yesterday enjoying the spring weather here, when I hear a distinctive sound approaching, I looked up and overhead at quite low altitude a restored P51 Mustang went directly overhead. Now, for those of you who have never heard a Merlin motor at close range, it is enough to make the hairs on the back of your head stand on end! Imagine 27 litres of twin supercharged V12 motor running on avgas and producing 2030 plus h.p. and running on short open stub exhausts. The Merlin is quite rightly regarded as one of the all-time great aero motors, and has a most distinctive sound, if you have never experienced one then go to one of the airshows featuring WW 11 vintage planes and wait for either a Mustang, Spitfire, or Hurricane. I guarantee you will not be disappointed! Now, if I could figure out a way of extending the TR chassis so I could fit one in the front..... regards from "The Deep South" Alan From ray at raysmg.com Sat Nov 3 19:03:56 2007 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 19:03:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 bonnet gap reduction Message-ID: <20071103190356.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.ba200b8a5e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Paul, As you have seen, my bonnet fit is "typical"...meaning I'd like it to be a bit tighter, but you can't throw a cat through it. Be that as it may, you are certainly welcome to stop by and take some measurements; perhaps from that you can determine whether all will be well when you "tighten things up", or if you need to look further into the problem. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Nov 3 19:17:59 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 22:17:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20071104135315.04198118@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07961338@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Hi Alan: Your note reminded me of something that John Macartney contributed back in 2001. I copy Jonmacs note: >Amen to all that. But the sound of a sole Spitfire or Hurribird can do >things to your tear ducts if sound is allied to vision, while the >bellowing of a Lanc makes your hair stand on end. Aint no sound in the >world like a Merlin. And add in the response to it from my father who was in the RAF as a young radio mechanic during the time the Spitfires and Lancasters were flying. He responded with the following comment: "The enthusiast should try being crouched inside the tail section of a Spitfire, with his knees by his ears and fixing the radio wiring, with the engine running." A flip side to every record eh? :^) Mark Hooper 72 TR6 P.S. I gather that it was a known diagnostic practise with planes that would cut out the radio due to harness stretching at take-off or when manoeuvring. Must have been interesting being pulled backward down a runway poking at wires. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan & Lyn Dunscombe Sent: November 3, 2007 9:24 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) And now for something completely ......... For those of you (like me) who revel in the sound of a tuned LBC running with minimal exhaust muffling, [& I have to admit that a 6 cyl. TR, Healey or Jag motor sounds even better than a 4 cylinder TR(actor) motor] dream on this one. I was outside yesterday enjoying the spring weather here, when I hear a distinctive sound approaching, I looked up and overhead at quite low altitude a restored P51 Mustang went directly overhead. Now, for those of you who have never heard a Merlin motor at close range, it is enough to make the hairs on the back of your head stand on end! Imagine 27 litres of twin supercharged V12 motor running on avgas and producing 2030 plus h.p. and running on short open stub exhausts. The Merlin is quite rightly regarded as one of the all-time great aero motors, and has a most distinctive sound, if you have never experienced one then go to one of the airshows featuring WW 11 vintage planes and wait for either a Mustang, Spitfire, or Hurricane. I guarantee you will not be disappointed! Now, if I could figure out a way of extending the TR chassis so I could fit one in the front..... regards from "The Deep South" Alan From tom628 at verizon.net Sat Nov 3 21:47:02 2007 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 00:47:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) References: <5.1.0.14.0.20071104135315.04198118@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> Message-ID: <008b01c81e9d$bec0bc20$2f01a8c0@Toms> That Merlin sound is instantly recognizable, and just exudes a feeling of raw power and speed. I have an icon on my opening screen that I open every once in a while that plays the sound of a P51 approaching, overhead, and receding into the distance. Only 8 seconds, and I don't remember where I got it, but I had to save it. Beautiful. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan & Lyn Dunscombe" To: Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2007 9:24 PM Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) > And now for something completely ......... > > For those of you (like me) who revel in the sound of a tuned LBC running > with minimal exhaust muffling, [& I have to admit that a 6 cyl. TR, Healey > or Jag motor sounds even better than a 4 cylinder TR(actor) motor] dream > on > this one. > > I was outside yesterday enjoying the spring weather here, when I hear a > distinctive sound approaching, > I looked up and overhead at quite low altitude a restored P51 Mustang went > directly overhead. > > Now, for those of you who have never heard a Merlin motor at close range, > it is enough to make the hairs on the back of your head stand on end! > Imagine 27 litres of twin supercharged V12 motor running on avgas and > producing 2030 plus h.p. and running on short open stub exhausts. > > The Merlin is quite rightly regarded as one of the all-time great aero > motors, and has a most distinctive sound, if you have never experienced > one > then go to one of the airshows featuring WW 11 vintage planes and wait for > either a Mustang, Spitfire, or Hurricane. I guarantee you will not be > disappointed! > > Now, if I could figure out a way of extending the TR chassis so I could > fit > one in the front..... > > regards from "The Deep South" > > Alan > _______________________________________________ From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sun Nov 4 03:10:18 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 11:10:18 +0100 Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) References: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07961338@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <000a01c81eca$e70942b0$0500a8c0@Study> >"The enthusiast should try being crouched inside the tail section of a Spitfire, with his knees by his ears and fixing the radio wiring, with the engine running."< When you ran up the engine of a Seafire, a naval Spitfire, to do the mag drops on the RR Griffon engine (a more powerful version of the Merlin), two mechanics had to drape themselves over the tail to stop the aeroplane from tipping over! And that was with the engine at 0 boost! Max boost was +27. Definitely noisy smelly and draughty. Two other good noises were the sound of a Lancaster bomber with 4 Merlins flying by and the noise of a Shackleton maritime reconaissance aircraft taking off with it's 4 Griffons at full boost. Of course YMMV, David Brister. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5746 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From twakeman at razzolink.com Sun Nov 4 07:14:50 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 06:14:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) In-Reply-To: <008b01c81e9d$bec0bc20$2f01a8c0@Toms> References: <5.1.0.14.0.20071104135315.04198118@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> <008b01c81e9d$bec0bc20$2f01a8c0@Toms> Message-ID: <472DD3DA.2030007@razzolink.com> Tom Note wrote: > I have an icon on my opening screen that I open every once in a while that > plays the sound of a P51 approaching, overhead, and receding into the > distance. Ah, ear candy! But can your computer's speaker do it justice? I frequently hear Merlins overhead in real life. There are a few P51's based in nearby airports, plus last time I checked there was a guy at Monterey airport who had a P-39 and ME-109 (ex-Spanish air force), that both had Merlin engines in them. And then every once in a while there is the sound of multiple big radials. The Watsonville fly in usually attracts either a B-17 or B-14 and occasionally both. The B-17 folks sell rides so for a week after the Watsonville show the B-17 is usually flying paying riders along the coast at around 1500 feet. The air field at Fort Ord has become a private field that has started to have an annual show. The day after their show ended I saw a B-25 flying over my house. Its not a bad neighborhood if you like the sound of war birds. Back to topic: My TR3 has the earlier TR2 exhaust with no resonator, four tube headers with collector down by the starter motor and a 280 degree cam. It has a very nice exhaust note that doesn't sound at all like your typical TR3A. I like to go through tunnels at 4000 RPM just to listen to the exhaust. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Nov 4 07:20:10 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 10:20:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 bonnet gap reduction In-Reply-To: <039101c81e7d$23f5dd80$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <039101c81e7d$23f5dd80$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200711040920.10678.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 03 November 2007 07:53 pm, Paul Dorsey wrote: > I find huge, ugly gaps on ALL ALONG both bonnet SIDES when I tentively lay > my bonnet down where it normally shuts. Unfortuneatly, our normal fender > beading won't cover this gulley. The gaps I speak of are between the > bonnet and the semi-mounted fender (none of the top fender bolts have been > tightened yet). I also haven't mounted the front apron yet, but since it's > the exact same width as the bonnet (in the front) I know it will ALSO have > the same ugly size gap. I have a picture available (upon request) that > shows this huge gap between the fender & hood, and fender & apron. It > measures about 5/8" on each side. I would think this ought to be about > 1/4" on each side. > Some of the 'fix' might have been to have made all the angles 90 > degrees like the factory intended an unmounted fender to have. Another > major 'fix' was an idea given me by Bill Beech and I wonder if others have > tried it with success. His idea was to simply wedge in some more aluminum > wafers(?) at the front inner fender body mounts. In fact, these might have > to be > 'wedge-shaped' in order to roll or twist the fenders just a TINY bit > thereby reducing the width. Is this an acceptable idea to reduce gap > width? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3A Paul, If memory serves me correctly, the gaps you mention should lessen when the apron is attached. One key attachment point is that front aluminum piece to each side of the inner fenders. During my last 3 restoration I had to really pull and pull the inner fenders to get that brace to fit. This is the brace that attaches to the apron in the front where the hood latch attaches. It is secured with 4 long 1/4 28 " bolts. I used small diameter philips screw drivers to wedge it into place. Lots of colorfull language if I remember correctly. I am guessing your inner fenders have spread a bit. So I would loosen the fenders and then mount the apron and see if that gap you mention is reduced. Or if you want to to through the trouble, you could remove the brace from the apron and install it between the inner fenders to see if the gap is reduced. Bob From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Nov 4 07:53:12 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 14:53:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] Successful trip. Message-ID: I have just returned from a week long trip into So. Ca. The TR ran like a dream the entire trip. The Revington rack and pinion made steering as easy as power steering. It corners like a go kart when I need to get deep in a corner. I encountered a little precipitation the first day out. The trick I learned here on pulling the top bows into position after attaching the top helped a lot in the rain. I took 101 south and came back on the I-5. The car is as comfortable to drive as my T-Bird if not more so. I am now playing with the idea of a cross country trip to Texas in the spring. It is odd how in my T-Bird I have to have the CD player loaded to make the same trip. In the TR I don't even miss the music. I seem to enjoy the trip more without it. I have a few improvements and replacements to do this winter. I am waiting for the rains to begin before I take it off the road but the temptation to begin early is eating at me. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by today. http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt agline From jgillis at tcd.ie Sun Nov 4 10:02:03 2007 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:02:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] engine rebuild follow on Message-ID: Dear all, As I suspected my re-built engine, although running and starting very well has a few issues, can I try these two out on the list. I mentioned after the initial start up about a smokey oil filler which seemed to go away, well its back and not going away, once I run the engine I am getting smoke back through the filler after turning off. I guess this is either valves or rings, hopefully the former. The second is a dripping of water from the underside of the water pump, this was a NOS item, can the pump leak or must it be from the gasket area?. Starting to have visions of me pulling the engine apart before I even drive the thing, don't know if I can face this, anyway all advice welcome. John 1954 TR2 (longdoor) From bielings at comcast.net Sun Nov 4 10:32:35 2007 From: bielings at comcast.net (PBieling) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 12:32:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear spring Message-ID: <000a01c81f08$b067a100$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> Hi, I am removing the rear springs from my '60 TR3a. I have removed everything removed except the front pin which goes through the "silent block". I installed the 5/16" x 24 bolt into the head of the pin. According to Haynes I should be able to pry the pin out. It seems to be frozen solid. Any Ideas? Pete Bieling From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Nov 4 12:07:59 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 15:07:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] engine rebuild follow on In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200711041407.59577.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 04 November 2007 12:02 pm, John Gillis wrote: > Dear all, > As I suspected my re-built engine, although running and starting very > well has a few issues, can I try these two out on the list. I > mentioned after the initial start up about a smokey oil filler which > seemed to go away, well its back and not going away, once I run the > engine I am getting smoke back through the filler after turning off. > I guess this is either valves or rings, hopefully the former. John, The smoke may be blowing to the sump through the rings which may not have seated yet. The only way smoke could get to the sump from the valves is through the guides. Not much room there. Make sure the rings are seated, takes awhile with chrome rings. I guess there could be a problem with the head gasket where exhaust is leaking through the oil hole to the rocker arm lube hole, but it is not likely. > The > second is a dripping of water from the underside of the water pump, > this was a NOS item, can the pump leak or must it be from the gasket > area?. Starting to have visions of me pulling the engine apart before > I even drive the thing, don't know if I can face this, anyway all > advice welcome. IF the pump is a NOS with an emphasis on OS, the seal may be hard and not sealing. A leak here will be from the underside of the pump where there is a slot in the shaft for grease to flow out. This is in the center of the pump assembly. Coolant could also leak from the center of the front of the pump if the seal is old. Best fix for this is to install a new aftermarket pump from one of the usual. If it is the gasket the leak will be at the gasket either on the pump or where the housing attaches to the block. Bob > John > 1954 TR2 (longdoor) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From skip47 at powernet.net Sun Nov 4 11:40:27 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 10:40:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] engine rebuild follow on References: Message-ID: <001f01c81f12$2c5f3ad0$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Hi John- You wrote: > I guess this is either valves or rings, hopefully the former. The > second is a dripping of water from the underside of the water pump, > this was a NOS item, can the pump leak or must it be from the gasket > area?. There's a straightforward way to check valves vs rings. Do a compression test. Take baseline pressures, then squirt some engine oil into the plug holes and take the measurements again. If the pressure comes up significantly, it's likely rings. If not, then valve guides are suspect. As for the waterpump, dry off the pump and check carefully where the water is coming from. The gasket will show water only at the bottom, the pump itself will weep from the front. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A 44 years of accumulated TR4 parts.... From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Nov 4 11:43:32 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 11:43:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Successful trip. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <472E12D4.1090701@tscusa.org> tom white wrote: > I have just returned from a week long trip into So. Ca. The TR ran like a > dream the entire trip. The Revington rack and pinion made steering as easy as > power steering. It corners like a go kart when I need to get deep in a > corner. > I am now playing with the > idea of a cross country trip to Texas in the spring. > > It is odd how in my T-Bird I have to have the CD player loaded to make the > same trip. In the TR I don't even miss the music. I seem to enjoy the trip > more without it. > > Best regards, > Tom > Sounds like you have had the ultimate Triumph experience!! That is called "driving one!" Far too many owners spend way too many hours working on their Triumphs, trailering, primping and polishing, and not enjoying what they were designed for, driving!!! I mean, it is fabulous to see a nicely prepared Triumph sitting in a show, but it is one heck of a lot better to drive it on the roads it was meant for - every day! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From timipurdy at citlink.net Sun Nov 4 11:58:33 2007 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 10:58:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] Successful trip. References: Message-ID: <002301c81f14$b36aff80$01fea8c0@Lahontan> I never bothered with the radio in my TR4 or installed a CD, I just enjoy the drive and the surroundings. Tim > It is odd how in my T-Bird I have to have the CD player loaded to make the > same trip. In the TR I don't even miss the music. I seem to enjoy the > trip > more without it. > > I have a few improvements and replacements to do this winter. I am > waiting > for the rains to begin before I take it off the road but the temptation to > begin early is eating at me. > > Best regards, > Tom > _________________________________________________________________ > Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop > by > today. > http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt > agline > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 4 12:00:46 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 11:00:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] Rear spring In-Reply-To: <000a01c81f08$b067a100$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> Message-ID: <20071104190045.NIEG26225.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > According to Haynes I should be able to pry the pin out. > It seems to be frozen solid. Any Ideas? Didn't we already have this thread this year ? Perhaps you should check the archives for previous posts. Anyway, yes, that's a very common problem. The pin rusts into the sleeves in the frame and Silentbloc and can be very difficult to remove. I was able to get mine out by fabricating a puller from a home-made 5/16 stud (cut the head off a Grade 8 bolt and tapped the cut end; which then had to be replaced for the other pin due to extreme wear) plus some pipe and a 3/8" drive socket. Heat and/or your favorite penetrating oil will help too. But be careful, all (AFAIK) penetrating oils are flammable so it's easy to get a small fire going when alternating heat & oil. An ex-Triumph dealer mechanic once told me that they would just drill a hole in the outer bodywork and drive the pins out with a punch & BFH. Afterwards, they stuck a chrome plug in the hole in the body. Of course, you can also use this method by removing the body (thereby avoiding the hole & plug). Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Nov 4 12:05:11 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 14:05:11 EST Subject: [TR] Rear spring Message-ID: In a message dated 11/4/2007 9:43:35 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, bielings at comcast.net writes: Hi, I am removing the rear springs from my '60 TR3a. I have removed everything removed except the front pin which goes through the "silent block". I installed the 5/16" x 24 bolt into the head of the pin. According to Haynes I should be able to pry the pin out. It seems to be frozen solid. Any Ideas? Pete Bieling Peter, there are many theories about this. One of my "trophies" in my display of horrors is that bolt with a 5/16-24 bolt broken off in it, in the 5/16 bolt there is a broken off EZ out, and a broken off tap extractor. After a lot of problems, I removed the little slipper piece of the gravel shield, and carefully drilled right through the body. I then got a long punch. I cut a hole in a piece of wood and put around it in case I missed with the sledge hammer. I started with a small diameter punch, and all that did was to expand the bolt. A large long punch worked great. I had also soaked it with Liquid Wrench and heated it etc. My plan was to weld it up , but since its covered nicely by the gravel shield, I just put Rustoleum rusty metal primer on the edges and left it. Good Luck! Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From ebartle at hbci.com Sun Nov 4 12:05:46 2007 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 13:05:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] Transmission Locks in Reverse Message-ID: <20071104190632.09C251BB25@mail.hbci.com> I started up my TR3A for the first time in about 23 years. It is in the final stages of restoration. I had the engine, transmission, and carbs rebuilt and it started and ran fine However, when I put it in reverse and backed it up, it would not come out of reverse. It is locked up. Any thoughts on what may have caused the problem? Eric From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 4 12:10:36 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 11:10:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] engine rebuild follow on In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071104191035.UTOQ18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I mentioned after the initial start up about a > smokey oil filler which seemed to go away, well its back and > not going away, once I run the engine I am getting smoke back > through the filler after turning off. > I guess this is either valves or rings, hopefully the former. As already noted, it's much more likely to be the latter. But a small amount of smoke is normal, IMO, so unless it becomes a nuisance or other symptoms develop, I would suggest (as before) to simply ignore it. > The second is a dripping of water from the underside of the > water pump, this was a NOS item, can the pump leak or must it > be from the gasket area?. It was common for the old seals to take some time to seat. Some sources even say to spin the pump before installing it (using a motor-driven wire wheel or similar). If the water is from the weep hole and is just a drip, you might try driving it several hundred miles to see if it clears up. Randall From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Sun Nov 4 12:35:50 2007 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 11:35:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] P-51! Cadillac of the sky! Message-ID: <154312.57837.qm@web80404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> A fine place to listen to the engine noise of a Merlin is the air-strike scene in the '80s movie, "Empire of the Sun". Jim runs up the tower and exclaims,"P-51! Cadillac of the sky!", as US P-51s strafe the Japanese air field near Shanghai. Outstanding. I'm off tomorrow morning to retrieve my '64 TR4 from east Tennessee, where it lost its oil pump at the "Tail of the Dragon" on the way to Jekyll Island last month. brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 - with an engine making no sound at the moment Wheaton, Illinois From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 4 12:37:43 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 11:37:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] Transmission Locks in Reverse In-Reply-To: <20071104190632.09C251BB25@mail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <20071104193742.WGAI18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > However, when I put it in reverse and backed it up, it would > not come out of reverse. It is locked up. > > Any thoughts on what may have caused the problem? Do you mean the lever is stuck in the reverse position ? Or the transmission is in reverse while the lever has moved back to neutral ? Either way, most likely it's a problem with the transmission top cover. So pull out the tunnel again, and unbolt the top cover, and see what the problem is. If the cover works once it's off the box, then the problem is inside the box. The reverse idler must be jammed somehow. Not sure offhand, but ISTR that can happen with the crash box if the locating pin for the idler shaft is left out, or broken. Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Nov 4 14:08:12 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 16:08:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Transmission Locks in Reverse References: <20071104190632.09C251BB25@mail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <001c01c81f26$d0103300$5918e247@DCS78M81> I had my TR3A lock up in reverse at the Funkana at Valley Forge this summer. The "ball and spring" that acts as an anti-rattle slipped and wedged itself thereby locking the transmission shifter from moving. The fix is to remove the carpet and the two 1/4 inch bolts that hold the rounded cover on the shifter. Remove the shifter and the offending spring and small rod. I got a new rod from the usual suppliers and installed it after I got home and it happened again a couple of days later. I suppose that I have a bad shift handle. The ball and rod only act as anti rattle so it's not a big deal to work without them and so that's what I'm doing. As Randall said, if it's locked in reverse and the shifter is in neutral then I'm no help. Good luck Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Bartleson" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 2:05 PM Subject: [TR] Transmission Locks in Reverse >I started up my TR3A for the first time in about 23 years. It is in the > final stages of restoration. > > I had the engine, transmission, and carbs rebuilt and it started and ran > fine > > > > However, when I put it in reverse and backed it up, it would not come out > of > reverse. It is locked up. > > > > Any thoughts on what may have caused the problem? > > > > Eric > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 4 14:15:15 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 16:15:15 EST Subject: [TR] Rear spring Message-ID: I am assuming that the body is on your car. If this is the case, this is not going to be easy. There are a number of remedies that have been posted from raising the body enough to get at the end, to drilling a hole thorough the body panel where the small stone guard is so you can drive at the end of it with a pin and a BFH. Method two is going to take lots of PB Blaster, repeated heating, and a considerable amount of pounding. Be careful of one thing. If you damage the threads and you cannot get it out, the story does not have a happy ending. If I were you I would make a very careful evaluation of the condition of the existing springs. If there are no broken leaves I would get some second opinions on the way to proceed. Others have been successful in getting out seized pins. I was lucky, I had one that slipped right out. The other is another story. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From moira.secrest at verizon.net Sun Nov 4 14:28:25 2007 From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M Secrest) Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 16:28:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Z-S Carbs/GT6-3 Message-ID: My GT6-3 has been sitting for a couple of years. I've started the car again but the Z/S carbs are pouring fuel into the engine, so much so it's coming out the tailpipes. What's the "check these things first" list look like? I have an idea but I'd like to hear what others think. Thanks .. Martin Secrest Arlington, VA 73 GT6 72 TR6 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Nov 4 15:19:28 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 18:19:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Z-S Carbs/GT6-3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200711041719.29211.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 04 November 2007 04:28 pm, M Secrest wrote: > My GT6-3 has been sitting for a couple of years. I've started the car > again but the Z/S carbs are pouring fuel into the engine, so much so it's > coming out the tailpipes. > > What's the "check these things first" list look like? I have an idea but > I'd like to hear what others think. > > Thanks .. > > Martin Secrest > Arlington, VA > 73 GT6 > 72 TR6 Mark, Dont know a thing about ZS but is sounds like a stuck float valve. At least it would be if the carbs were SUs. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 4 15:08:17 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 14:08:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] Z-S Carbs/GT6-3 In-Reply-To: <200711041719.29211.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <20071104220818.KKKF20672.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > Dont know a thing about ZS but is sounds like a stuck float > valve. At least it would be if the carbs were SUs. What he said ! I'm relatively new to the wonders of ZS carbs, but exactly that happened to me in 2005 and again last year. Randall From fishplate at charter.net Sun Nov 4 15:52:30 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 17:52:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Z-S Carbs/GT6-3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20071104225209.MKYA495.aarprv02.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 04:28 PM 11/4/2007, you wrote: >My GT6-3 has been sitting for a couple of years. I've started the car again >but the Z/S carbs are pouring fuel into the engine, so much so it's coming >out the tailpipes. > >What's the "check these things first" list look like? Check that you have a working fire extinguisher... Then check the float valves. Jeff Scarbrough Garage Full Of Zenith-Strombergs, Ga. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.21/1109 - Release Date: 11/4/2007 11:05 AM From frank at ssabsa.sa.gov.au Sun Nov 4 16:36:11 2007 From: frank at ssabsa.sa.gov.au (Biedermann, Frank (SSABSA)) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 10:06:11 +1030 Subject: [TR] do it yourself radiator fixin' In-Reply-To: <472CB37B.4070109@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <3DE968EA77F2F24DB241177F2C5E768B057B0BB4@sagemsg0027.sagemsmrd01.sa.gov.au> Paul, As people are saying it's not really rocket science, but it does take a bit of experience in the radiator repair discipline. Why not get a pro to do it? It'd be a heap quicker and easier, and it's not really expensive at all. If I remember correctly, I had a high efficiency core installed in an old TR6 radiator I had (my TR6 had some other Australian car radiator bodged into it at some point, which kinda worked but wasn't ideal), and all I did was give the shop the old radiator (which had good top and bottom tanks) and the shop desoldered all that, put the new core in, pressure tested it, painted it black, and generally made it look brand new. That all ran to less than AU$300, which included the new core. I certainly couldn't have done such a good job, or pressure tested the results, let alone do it in a couple of days like they did. In my opinion, stuff like that just isn't worth attempting yourself... HTH, Frank Biedermann 69 Triumph TR6 PI Adelaide, Australia > > Paul Dorsey wrote: > > I've never done this before, but, why shouldn't I 'recore' > a radiator myself? > > Posibly, using a $100 radiator from NAPA? If need be, I > can use the top and > > bottom tanks from spare TR3 radiators. Is the 'coring' > "just the right size" > > for our cars? Or is there some other thing I'm likely to > mess up? I work > > with an expert soldering guy- he wouldn't mind! Please educate > > me!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > > > Thanks, > > Paul Dorsey > > 60 TR3 > > > Paul, > One thing for sure is that it is not rocket science, but it > is a learned > skill. If you have a safe work area, the right sized torch- > type of gas > - eye for temperature control and ability to clean and bend things to > fit together properly and understand how to make the metal joint take > solder over 100% of the joint without it flowing suddenly into the > radiator tanks and clogging up some core tubes, it should not > be an issue. > > However there is always that one thing you can not account > for, and that > is years of experience of doing thousands of radiator repairs, and > knowing what works and what does not. Maybe that experience only > provides for better shortcuts, or lack of experience provides > for taking > too much precaution and performing a superior repair you may > not get at > a radiator shop. > > So it your are a detail oriented person, you will probably > end up with a > better looking job once you break the learning curve. > > -- > Glenn A. Merrell > Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) > The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in > the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jmitch at snet.net Sun Nov 4 17:57:19 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 19:57:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix Message-ID: <472E6A6F.3020309@snet.net> I need to hook the red wire of my pertonix to a full 12 volt source. Any problem with connecting to the bottom connector on y oil pressure switch? Seems like a convenient spot close to the Dizzy without having to drape a wire across to the fuse box. Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 From tr_jag at yahoo.com Sun Nov 4 18:05:55 2007 From: tr_jag at yahoo.com (Robert Muzio) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:05:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix Message-ID: <338238.91438.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com> John, On my TR4 I have the red wire attached to the + side of the coil and the black wire to the - side of the coil. Bob Muzio Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From spitlist at cox.net Sun Nov 4 18:07:55 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 18:07:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix In-Reply-To: <472E6A6F.3020309@snet.net> References: <472E6A6F.3020309@snet.net> Message-ID: <000901c81f48$4c791850$2202a8c0@newcomputer> I am pretty sure that you need to run the red wire to switched 12 V. That can be done to any 12v source that is controlled by the ignition switch. It is easy to determine by connecting a probe light or Volt meter to the oil pressure switch (or any other point you want to test) and turn on the ignition. If the probe light illuminates or you get a 12 V. reading on your meter, that should work. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 5:57 PM To: 6 Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix I need to hook the red wire of my pertonix to a full 12 volt source. Any problem with connecting to the bottom connector on y oil pressure switch? Seems like a convenient spot close to the Dizzy without having to drape a wire across to the fuse box. Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr_jag at yahoo.com Sun Nov 4 18:19:00 2007 From: tr_jag at yahoo.com (Robert Muzio) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:19:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix Message-ID: <103926.3650.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Dang, what you have to go through for two more cylinders :-) I've had great success with the unit on two LBCs so you should like it. Just think, you set your timing and it stays set, unaffected by the wear associated with points. Bob Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 4 18:42:10 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:42:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix In-Reply-To: <000901c81f48$4c791850$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <20071105014211.SPEM18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > It is easy to determine > by connecting a probe light or Volt meter to the oil pressure > switch (or any other point you want to test) and turn on the > ignition. If the probe light illuminates or you get a 12 V. > reading on your meter, that should work. There is a problem with that approach (which I suspect is exactly what John has done). The problem is that you don't know how much resistance is in that circuit, and the Pertronix requires a low-resistance source of power. In fact, the original coil wire will pass the above test. So if you want to do it that way, use a relatively high power load (like an old headlight bulb) to test the circuit, then check how much voltage you get. If you can get 12v with a headlight bulb lit from it, it's low enough resistance to power the Pertronix. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Sun Nov 4 18:56:49 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 18:56:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix In-Reply-To: <20071105014211.SPEM18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <000901c81f48$4c791850$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <20071105014211.SPEM18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <000a01c81f4f$2145d040$2202a8c0@newcomputer> I'm sorry. I forgot that I promised not to answer anything on this list since you ALWAYS contradict me whenever I do. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 6:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix > It is easy to determine > by connecting a probe light or Volt meter to the oil pressure > switch (or any other point you want to test) and turn on the > ignition. If the probe light illuminates or you get a 12 V. > reading on your meter, that should work. There is a problem with that approach (which I suspect is exactly what John has done). The problem is that you don't know how much resistance is in that circuit, and the Pertronix requires a low-resistance source of power. In fact, the original coil wire will pass the above test. So if you want to do it that way, use a relatively high power load (like an old headlight bulb) to test the circuit, then check how much voltage you get. If you can get 12v with a headlight bulb lit from it, it's low enough resistance to power the Pertronix. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 1 10:06:18 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 09:06:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] wiring needed for my pos. ground car! In-Reply-To: <025201c81b72$1649b4d0$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071101160619.BYBE18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > The one thing that I do know after testing it out with my > car battery is that the fan's ground (black) must be hooked > to the battery's + pole, to get it to turn the correct direction. > > I'll share one unsuccessful scenario given to me by the > Spal guy: (I'll concede that I proably copied this wrong). > It's adapted from the 'Single Fan Wiring Diagram' shown above. > yellow relay wire (14 ga.) goes to battery's negative pole. > gray relay wire (20 ga.) (could go to a sensor) but I > have it just going > to a toggle switch and on to the battery's positive pole. > red relay wire (14 ga.) to fan's red wire > orange relay wire (20 ga.) runs to ignition switch. > fan's black wire to the TR3's grounding So with this wiring, the fan turned backwards, right ? Just reverse the red/black fan leads and it should work fine. (Red fan wire to ground, black fan wire to red relay wire). Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 4 18:38:05 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:38:05 -0800 Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix In-Reply-To: <472E6A6F.3020309@snet.net> Message-ID: <20071105013806.SIUK18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I need to hook the red wire of my pertonix to a full 12 > volt source. Any problem with connecting to the bottom > connector on y oil pressure switch? You mean other than it not working ? > Seems like a convenient > spot close to the Dizzy without having to drape a wire across > to the fuse box. Problem is, the OP switch doesn't get 12v directly. Instead it either gets it through the oil warning light (key on) or through the anti-runon solenoid (key off). Plus of course it shorts these to ground depending on whether you have oil pressure or not; while you'd probably like to be able to start the engine without oil pressure and have it keep running when you get oil pressure. I'm not sure which terminal is on the bottom (depends on how tight your switch was screwed in), but none of them are what you want. I guess, if you don't care about the ARS, you could hi-jack it's wire by rewiring the ignition switch (to supply power down the brown/red with the key on), then short the NR and WP leads at the ARS, then remove the white/purple from the OP switch and use it to power your Pertronix. But that seems like a lot of work (and chances to forget what you've done next time you or someone else works on the wiring), just to avoid running a wire to the fuse block. Randall From jmitch at snet.net Sun Nov 4 19:52:54 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 21:52:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix In-Reply-To: <20071105014211.SPEM18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20071105014211.SPEM18384.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <472E8586.20203@snet.net> Your correct Randall, not enough juice at that lead. I tried the headlight and nothing. I guess it will have to be at the fuse box. Thanks so much. John Mitchell 76 TR6 Randall wrote: >> It is easy to determine >> by connecting a probe light or Volt meter to the oil pressure >> switch (or any other point you want to test) and turn on the >> ignition. If the probe light illuminates or you get a 12 V. >> reading on your meter, that should work. >> > > There is a problem with that approach (which I suspect is exactly what John > has done). The problem is that you don't know how much resistance is in > that circuit, and the Pertronix requires a low-resistance source of power. > > In fact, the original coil wire will pass the above test. > > So if you want to do it that way, use a relatively high power load (like an > old headlight bulb) to test the circuit, then check how much voltage you > get. If you can get 12v with a headlight bulb lit from it, it's low enough > resistance to power the Pertronix. From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Nov 4 20:59:15 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 22:59:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix References: <338238.91438.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00a001c81f60$3c057050$58057247@fred8kwiskhcfu> > John, > On my TR4 I have the red wire attached to the + side > of the coil and the black wire to the - side of the > coil. > Bob Muzio > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around ========================================================================================================= Robert, this is exactly how Dan Masters wired my Petronix system, not sure it's correct or not, it's only been operating flawlessly for about 8 years now. "FT" From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 4 21:57:24 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 20:57:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix In-Reply-To: <000a01c81f4f$2145d040$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <20071105045725.NFBW3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > I'm sorry. I forgot that I promised not to answer anything > on this list since you ALWAYS contradict me whenever I do. As I've tried to explain before, Joe, it's absolutely nothing personal. Randall From jat1127 at hotmail.com Mon Nov 5 08:50:12 2007 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 10:50:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 4 boot/trunk lid Message-ID: Hello, I have a nice TR4 boot/trunk lid that will be nearly free to someone that comes after it in Greenfield. If it is easy I can deliver it to some locals in the northeast BESTjohn John Taylor Greenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last. Get it now. http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971 033 From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Nov 5 09:02:38 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 11:02:38 EST Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) Message-ID: In a message dated 11/4/2007 6:15:30 AM Mountain Standard Time, twakeman at razzolink.com writes: The Watsonville fly in usually attracts either a B-17 or B-14 and occasionally both. The local airport a few miles from my house has a great air museum and when the B-17's or B24's come through here they usually overnight at that airport. Nothing like the sound of those big radials as the come in low over my house for a landing. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Nov 5 09:18:22 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 11:18:22 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Question Message-ID: What's the easiest way to tell if a TR6 has an overdrive transmission? I was at a local pick and pull Saturday and spied a TR6 with a small dent in the bumper and a $100 paint job (red spray over the snaps and some of the rubber). It had been sitting for some time by the dust that was collected. The seats were also trashed, by the sun most likely, but it looked to have a relatively new top. I asked about it and told them I'd like to buy the transmission if it was an overdrive. This will fit my TR4, no?????? There were two stalks on the steering column. A turn signal and a ???...windshield washer or overdrive? If I buy the car, is anyone interested in a TR6 with a TR4 transmission? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From Bob.Westerdale at ametek.com Mon Nov 5 09:36:23 2007 From: Bob.Westerdale at ametek.com (Bob Westerdale) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 11:36:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2-3 steering worm installation, now R&P In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20071103195756.037020c0@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> Message-ID: Re: Rack and pinion conversion- I did it a decade (+) ago, and it was a very significant improvement to the car's demeanor. In a side by side R&P/worm-peg comparison, it is a winner, regardless of whether the Worm&Peg is old or rebuilt. However, if the originality factor is more important than driving pleasure, well, you get my drift.... regards, Bob Westerdale 59 3A TS36967 Alan & Lyn Dunscombe Sent by: triumphs-bounces+bob.westerdale=ametek.com at autox.team.net 11/03/2007 03:02 AM To triumphs at autox.team.net cc Subject was TR2-3 steering worm installation Come on Randall, If, as I suspect, you are rebuilding your new TR3 project then stop mucking around with worms & pegs - "bite the bullet" and put in a good rack& pinion conversion. In my 25 years of owning TS3612 the single most impressive improvement I made was converting to rack & pinion steering several years ago. The troubles involved in getting a good setup with the original design, let alone maintaining it, are well documented on the list, and lets face it Triumph fixed it themselves in the TR4. From pethier at comcast.net Mon Nov 5 09:56:52 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2007 16:56:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] Pristine TR-4 hood availabe. Message-ID: <110520071656.11347.472F4B540006478900002C5322070016419D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > I was going through some of my assortmented parts, and find that I have > a pristine TR-4 hood. I'm not sure if it came off a -4 or 4A. Also, > there were the "short" carb bulge hoods, and the "long" bulge hoods. > Does anyone out there know the measurements for each? No measurements should be needed, as the difference is quite obvious. On the long-bubble hood (bonnet), the bubble reaches all the way to the aft end of the hood. In the more-rare early short-bubble hood, the bubble falls far short of the rear of the hood. I think all the TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR250 long-bubble hoods are the same, but I'm no expert. From Lbc.Resto at comcast.net Mon Nov 5 10:01:46 2007 From: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net (Ian) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 12:01:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Pristine TR-4 hood availabe. In-Reply-To: <110520071656.11347.472F4B540006478900002C5322070016419D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <110520071656.11347.472F4B540006478900002C5322070016419D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002f01c81fcd$8ccfe250$0502a8c0@RAS> I have both; a long bubble on the car as well as a short bubble (finishes about 6 inches from the back) that is probably going onto eBay soon, unless there is some interest amongst the true enthusiasts. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 11:57 AM To: jar at aldermanroad.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Subject: Re: [TR] Pristine TR-4 hood availabe. > I was going through some of my assortmented parts, and find that I have > a pristine TR-4 hood. I'm not sure if it came off a -4 or 4A. Also, > there were the "short" carb bulge hoods, and the "long" bulge hoods. > Does anyone out there know the measurements for each? No measurements should be needed, as the difference is quite obvious. On the long-bubble hood (bonnet), the bubble reaches all the way to the aft end of the hood. In the more-rare early short-bubble hood, the bubble falls far short of the rear of the hood. I think all the TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR250 long-bubble hoods are the same, but I'm no expert. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From motorcarriage at charter.net Mon Nov 5 10:40:50 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 12:40:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 4 boot/trunk lid References: Message-ID: <000d01c81fd3$01b8ade0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Hi John, I would be very willing to pick these up at your convenience. I am located in Douglas,MA. Regards, Wayne Lee 58 TR3 64 TR4 75 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "john taylor" To: "Triumphs at Autox.team.net daily digest" ; "Triumphs at Autox.team.net daily digest" Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 10:50 AM Subject: [TR] TR 4 boot/trunk lid > Hello, > > I have a nice TR4 boot/trunk lid that will be nearly free to someone that > comes after it in Greenfield. > > If it is easy I can deliver it to some locals in the northeast > > BESTjohn > > John Taylor Greenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is > not > a race.....you do not want to finish first. From dkspence at telus.net Mon Nov 5 10:46:05 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 10:46:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3CD1E085-F491-4CFC-935E-C0570DD5CAA3@telus.net> Alan Many years back there was a crated merlin engine in the possession of a local shop. Big plans were in evidence but I don't think anything came of them. I do recall seeing pictures of an Opel GT modded to accept a merlin. Couldn't find those pics but include the following for your entertainment. Cheers Don > http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/car-talk/167947-john-dodds-%22-beast% > 22-any-info.html http://www.spainvia.com/Merlincar.htm http://rodshop.com.au/project55.htm Just found this article http://img359.imageshack.us/my.php?i...nsul0117uz.jpg http://img359.imageshack.us/my.php?i...nsul0121rm.jpg http://img359.imageshack.us/my.php?i...nsul0132qp.jpg http://img359.imageshack.us/my.php?i...nsul0141nq.jpg http://img359.imageshack.us/my.php?i...nsul0158oy.jpg > http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/jay_leno_garage/ > 4206704.html > The Merlin is quite rightly regarded as one of the all-time great > aero motors, and has a most distinctive sound, if you have never > experienced one then go to one of the airshows featuring WW 11 > vintage planes and wait for either a Mustang, Spitfire, or > Hurricane. I guarantee you will not be disappointed! > > Now, if I could figure out a way of extending the TR chassis so I > could fit one in the front..... > > regards from "The Deep South" > > Alan From motorcarriage at charter.net Mon Nov 5 10:50:20 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 12:50:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Question References: Message-ID: <002501c81fd4$554f3040$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Hi Dan, If the 2 stalks you mention are both on the right side of the column, then I'd say it's an overdrive unit. If there on each side then the one on the right is hi/lo beam. Cheers, Wayne Lee ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 11:18 AM Subject: [TR] TR6 Question > What's the easiest way to tell if a TR6 has an overdrive transmission? > > I was at a local pick and pull Saturday and spied a TR6 with a small dent > in > the bumper and a $100 paint job (red spray over the snaps and some of the > rubber). It had been sitting for some time by the dust that was > collected. > The seats were also trashed, by the sun most likely, but it looked to > have a > relatively new top. > > I asked about it and told them I'd like to buy the transmission if it was > an > overdrive. This will fit my TR4, no?????? There were two stalks on the > steering column. A turn signal and a ???...windshield washer or > overdrive? > > If I buy the car, is anyone interested in a TR6 with a TR4 transmission? > > Robert B. Houston > Texan in New Mexico > > 63 TR4 > > As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg > carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly > formed, > perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced > hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be > inspected and > adjusted as > described in chapter seven of the shop manual. > Dan McKay From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 5 11:12:34 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 10:12:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0f9301c81fd7$7083e1a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > What's the easiest way to tell if a TR6 has an overdrive > transmission? Only sure way is to crawl under the car (or pull the tunnel) and check. All of the other indications might be present with no OD (if for example someone has already done exactly what you are planning to do); or absent with OD present (if for example someone installed an OD transmission but never got around or didn't know to hook up the OD). > This will fit my TR4, no?????? Depends on what year TR6. Early ones had A-type ODs and are fairly easy. Up to you whether to change the front cover or not (the TR4A-6 front cover is shorter for the diaphragm clutch and at least some people have reported that the TOB carrier hangs up on the short nose). Change the shift lever (if you want), and speedo cable. Not certain, but I think it's likely you'll need to replace the 3 studs in the engine block, as the gearbox mounting flange got thicker. And of course hook up the electrics. Don't forget a relay, and I would suggest also a big diode to absorb the kickback from the solenoid. I believe the later J-type OD can be made to fit in a TR4, but will require more effort. Things like notching the frame rails, fabricating a rear mount, etc. Also the speedo drive ratio will be off by 11-12% unless you open up the OD and change the gears. Hopefully someone who has done this can chime in with more details, like whether the angle drive is required and what speedo cable to use. Randall From dkspence at telus.net Mon Nov 5 12:11:07 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 12:11:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR-6 QUESTION In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F829A9E-85CB-4FBF-B69B-4827D0DB9BBF@telus.net> THERE SHOULD BE THREE STALKS One on the right for headlights, two on the left for signals and OD. Best to pull the tunnel and look. It will be obvious. Yes it will fit in your TR4. See Randalls comments On 5-Nov-07, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > What's the easiest way to tell if a TR6 has an overdrive > transmission? > > I was at a local pick and pull Saturday and spied a TR6 with a > small dent in > the bumper and a $100 paint job (red spray over the snaps and some > of the > rubber). It had been sitting for some time by the dust that was > collected. > The seats were also trashed, by the sun most likely, but it looked > to have a > relatively new top. > > I asked about it and told them I'd like to buy the transmission if > it was an > overdrive. This will fit my TR4, no?????? There were two stalks > on the > steering column. A turn signal and a ???...windshield washer or > overdrive? > > If I buy the car, is anyone interested in a TR6 with a TR4 > transmission? > > Robert B. Houston > Texan in New Mexico From CarlSereda at aol.com Mon Nov 5 12:13:07 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 14:13:07 EST Subject: [TR] Pristine TR-4 hood availabe Message-ID: underside rear of TR4 hoods have no welded-in steel cup receptors for the TR4A style 'pointed' conical rear rubber stabilizers at rear corners. TR4 style is just flat rubber pad against flat sheet metal at rear corners. But it seems easy enough to swap in the conical rubber pedestals if fitting a TR4A hood to a TR4. I think all the TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR250 long-bubble hoods are the same ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Nov 5 14:01:47 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 16:01:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Broken Diff Mounts? Message-ID: <000901c81fef$19a52fc0$210110ac@bobspc> Well the good news is it's November 5th and I'm still driving around with the top down. The bad news is a very definite "clicking" sound I'm hearing on take off in 1st & 2nd gear. It doesn't happen all the time but it happens enough to be quite obvious. My wife said it sounds as if it's right under her seat. I was expecting a "clunk" sound, so is the "click" sound a precursor of things to come? If it is a cracked or broken diff mount, is it dangerous to drive the car? And if it is broken I place the blame on Rick Patton because TBI allows me to wind it up to 5K in 1st and 2nd with no problem! He's got me driving like a stupid high school kid again ;-) Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.22/1111 - Release Date: 11/5/2007 4:36 AM From fishplate at charter.net Mon Nov 5 14:15:33 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 16:15:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Broken Diff Mounts? In-Reply-To: <000901c81fef$19a52fc0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20071105161533.R13H2.18393.root@fepweb06> ---- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > Well the good news is it's November 5th and I'm still driving around with > the top down. Me too! > The bad news is a very definite "clicking" sound I'm hearing > on take off in 1st & 2nd gear. Could be U-joints... > And if it is broken I place the blame on Rick > Patton because TBI allows me to wind it up to 5K in 1st and 2nd with no > problem! I can do that with carbs - I get the same stupid grin, too... Jeff Scarbrough Spitfires and a TR6 From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Nov 5 14:31:54 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 16:31:54 EST Subject: [TR] TR-6 QUESTION Message-ID: In a message dated 11/5/2007 12:11:28 PM Mountain Standard Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: HERE SHOULD BE THREE STALKS One on the right for headlights, two on the left for signals and OD. Best to pull the tunnel and look. It will be obvious. Yes it will fit in your TR4. See Randalls comments Thanks all...I'm afraid it only had two stalks....anyone interested in the whole car? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tfansher at comcast.net Mon Nov 5 14:35:21 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 16:35:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stag front seat workings??? Message-ID: <000e01c81ff3$c5a1ac00$5918e247@DCS78M81> Anyone have a uncovered driver's seat frame? I need to know how the tilt mechanism works. It's worked by the large chromed lever to the door side of the driver's seat. Mine does not regulate the seat back. The seat is in a not too comfortable rearward recline. I took the seat out and tried to get a look but without removing the cover and foam I'm at a loss. It would help if someone already had one in that state. Thanks in advance for any help Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Nov 5 14:56:38 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 14:56:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Question In-Reply-To: <0f9301c81fd7$7083e1a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <0f9301c81fd7$7083e1a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Hey Randall -- could you suggest a specific big diode? Assume I know nothing about diodes, where to put them, etc. Also, I have no idea what this 'kickback' is or who I pay it to. Thanks! Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 11:12 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Question >...and I would suggest also a big diode to absorb the kickback > from the solenoid. From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Mon Nov 5 16:13:07 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 18:13:07 EST Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) Message-ID: In a message dated 11/5/07 12:51:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: << I do recall seeing pictures of an Opel GT modded to accept a merlin. >> That car was on E bay a few years ago. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From 6parts at charter.net Mon Nov 5 18:21:05 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:21:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body from frame Message-ID: <017601c82013$4deaa570$03d30c47@alan> Hopefully, this may be the week the frame is going to get straighten. Though, I am not holding my breath. After that I have to take the body off the frame. Has anyone had any experience taking the body off with the doors left in place? Or is it best to take the doors off and brace the shell? Thanks Al Salvatore From 6parts at charter.net Mon Nov 5 20:18:31 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 22:18:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body from frame References: <017601c82013$4deaa570$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <01b601c82023$b70743f0$03d30c47@alan> Seems the prefered way is to remove the doors. I don't need to do any paint work in that area. Is there a way to brace the door area without welding ? Al Salvatore From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Mon Nov 5 20:59:47 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 22:59:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 valve size question References: <017601c82013$4deaa570$03d30c47@alan> <01b601c82023$b70743f0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <009f01c82029$79788a70$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> After a long time away from TR'ing ... I am intent on doing an engine rebuild. I am hoping to start with the head, and then onwards to the block. Once rebuilt, I plan to reintall the PI system that was installed in 2001 on a very tired engine that worked well but for the lack of vacuum at low revs (lesson 1: don't install PI unless you can crank 150psi in all cylinders). If anyone is interested, I can share my earlier notes on a PI retrofit (just email me off list for a PDF). I hope to move up from the 72 standard cam to a Piper stage 2 road cam (well liked by PI folks apparently, but advice welcomed), with double 3-1 header leading to the 72 double pipes. The car already has O/D, aluminum flywheel, and suspension mods aplenty. I have a 72/73 head ... as standard it came with 1.44" inlets and 1.25" exhaust valves ... I have seen ads for larger inlets (and exhaust) valves ... what is the perceived wisdom on the valve size? 1.50" inlets and 1.30" exhausts seem to be available ... the head clearance is pretty tight so I'm not sure what works. Any advice? Tony Gordon 72 TR6 From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Mon Nov 5 21:31:01 2007 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 23:31:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Pristine TR-4 hood availabe. Message-ID: <002301c8202d$da0f92d0$0301a8c0@chuck> Ian, I've a friend who is possibly interested in your short-bubble hood. Please contact me off-list at bn_knight at ameritech.net. Thanks. Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: autox.team.net On Behalf Of Ian Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 12:02 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Pristine TR-4 hood available. I have both; a long bubble on the car as well as a short bubble (finishes about 6 inches from the back) that is probably going onto eBay soon, unless there is some interest amongst the true enthusiasts. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: autox.team.net On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 11:57 AM To: jar at aldermanroad.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Subject: Re: [TR] Pristine TR-4 hood available. > I was going through some of my assortment of parts, and find that I > have > a pristine TR-4 hood. I'm not sure if it came off a -4 or 4A. Also, > there were the "short" carb bulge hoods, and the "long" bulge hoods. > Does anyone out there know the measurements for each? No measurements should be needed, as the difference is quite obvious. On the long-bubble hood (bonnet), the bubble reaches all the way to the aft end of the hood. In the more-rare early short-bubble hood, the bubble falls far short of the rear of the hood. I think all the TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR250 long-bubble hoods are the same, but I'm no expert. From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Nov 5 21:37:34 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 23:37:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] further gap reduction options Message-ID: <04b701c8202e$c9da71e0$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Thanks to those who've tried to help me with my TR3. I loosely mounted the outer fenders, front apron, and bonnet but not tightened anything yet. I am wondering if i'll be able to remove the unsightly gap between these panels? Even with these panels loose, the largest gap is a 1/2" wide and located on both sides of the car where apron, bonnet and outer fender where all 3 panels come togather. Although the gap it's 1/2" at the junction of these body panels, it gradually tapers off (in all directions) the further you get from this point. I expect this gap will be reduced even further when I tighten the outer fenders into the apron (thereby pulling the fenders into near placement. If I can reduce the 1/2" to 1/4" I'd be happy, but I doubt it will do this much in both directions. In fact, someone told me that: attempts at pulling the fenders in by tightening the apron succeeded only in pulling out the lips of the apron and fenders themselves. I wonder if twisting the inner fenders (longitudinally) towards the middle of the car would have any positive effect? What about adding or subtracting body mounting pads from the front of the car or replacing them with slanted pads might help reduce this gap? Any other suggestions? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From JmyB at aol.com Mon Nov 5 21:48:41 2007 From: JmyB at aol.com (JmyB at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 23:48:41 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 321 Message-ID: In a message dated 11/4/2007 10:20:10 AM Pacific Standard Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: I have just returned from a week long trip into So. Ca. The TR ran like a dream the entire trip. ....... I took 101 south and came back on the I-5. Took a similar trip in the family TR6 coupla years ago...101 south following the coast from Tillamook Oregon to Ventura Calif with an extra side trip or two over the coast mountains...what a blast. The roads freshly paved, some not yet striped...I can still smell the break pads. They must be Ca's way of weeding out the lower end of the gene pool, the speed limits are the same as any other stretch of two lane road I came upon. Also came back I-5, must be something in the salt air along the coast that helps them run so well. Jim B. '74 TR6 ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From cak at dimebank.com Mon Nov 5 22:31:53 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 21:31:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Broken Diff Mounts? Message-ID: <200711060531.lA65VrnK002321@moose.dimebank.com> Could be U-joint. Could be the diff mount bushing perishing. Could be the copper thrust washer in the diff melting away from the sulfur in the gear oil... Get under there and find out. If the mount is truly broken, it will be much more than a gentle "click"! Best, chris From 308gtsi at adelphia.net Mon Nov 5 22:54:59 2007 From: 308gtsi at adelphia.net (Brian Induni) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 21:54:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body from frame In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000801c82039$91094e30$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Al, I did a body off resto on my 4a over the past 2 years - first summer I've been able to drive the little beast! I don't think leaving the doors on is a good idea as they don't actually do much to brace the opening. I disassembled mine down to the minimum and bolted in angle iron in both door openings. I know the manual shows the body being removed with everything including the interior intact, but I doubt anyone actually did this (OK, let the flood gates open!). FYI - the body tub BARE weighs about 400 pounds, maybe a little less. I was able to lift it with me on the front and my wife and 2 pre-teen boys on the sides and back. Brian 1967 TR4a, totally done. Now what? DRIVE IT! Message: 9 Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:21:05 -0500 From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body from frame To: , "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Message-ID: <017601c82013$4deaa570$03d30c47 at alan> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hopefully, this may be the week the frame is going to get straighten. Though, I am not holding my breath. After that I have to take the body off the frame. Has anyone had any experience taking the body off with the doors left in place? Or is it best to take the doors off and brace the shell? Thanks Al Salvatore From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Nov 6 05:25:14 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 07:25:14 EST Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body from frame Message-ID: In a message dated 11/5/2007 7:21:12 PM Central Standard Time, 6parts at charter.net writes: > Has anyone had any experience taking the body off with the doors left in > place? > Or is it best to take the doors off and brace the shell? > It is better to brace the door openings if that is convenient but I've pulled body shells using just the doors as bracing a couple of times with no problems. My door gaps were just as bad as before. Dave From ebutschek at austin.rr.com Tue Nov 6 05:32:09 2007 From: ebutschek at austin.rr.com (Eric Butschek) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 06:32:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix In-Reply-To: <20071105045725.NFBW3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20071105045725.NFBW3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <3FAB1C54A4D0470693B5B11AEC8EFF2C@EricButschekPC> I would add... I don't remember the year of the auto we are discussing... but if it has a "ballast resister", take it out and trash it as electronic ignitions need a full 12 volt supply... Eric, Austin Tx. > As I've tried to explain before, Joe, it's absolutely nothing personal. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From stantr6 at comcast.net Tue Nov 6 05:42:41 2007 From: stantr6 at comcast.net (stantr6 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2007 12:42:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body from frame Message-ID: <110620071242.20062.473061410001128400004E5E2215567074C09D9B020E9B9C@comcast.net> Al, list, I did same as Brian, except I used a 2x4 to brace the opening. Same effort - myself and three neighobor kids. Prior to removing, I made a dolly to set it on, with cheap castors from an old, discarded office chair. The only real expense was two 12' 2x4s that I positioned on edge to run the length of the tub, and spaced to fit just inside the rocker panels. I put in cross pieces, atop the two long 2x4s, where the tub attached to the frame, just behind the front apron and under the trunk (boot). I used scrap pieces to shim up to the tub from the cross pieces. That way, the tub was supported, and mobile so I could move it around the garage by myself. It even went to the paint shop for the first phase of painting on the dolly. The dolly has been passed to another TR club member. Stan -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at adelphia.net> > Al, > I did a body off resto on my 4a over the past 2 years - first summer I've > been able to drive the little beast! I don't think leaving the doors on is a > good idea as they don't actually do much to brace the opening. I > disassembled mine down to the minimum and bolted in angle iron in both door > openings. I know the manual shows the body being removed with everything > including the interior intact, but I doubt anyone actually did this (OK, let > the flood gates open!). > FYI - the body tub BARE weighs about 400 pounds, maybe a little less. I was > able to lift it with me on the front and my wife and 2 pre-teen boys on the > sides and back. > > Brian > 1967 TR4a, totally done. Now what? DRIVE IT! > > > Message: 9 > Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:21:05 -0500 > From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> > Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body from frame > To: , "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Message-ID: <017601c82013$4deaa570$03d30c47 at alan> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Hopefully, this may be the week the frame is going to get straighten. > Though, I am not holding my breath. > > After that I have to take the body off the frame. > > Has anyone had any experience taking the body off with the doors left in > place? > Or is it best to take the doors off and brace the shell? > > Thanks > > Al Salvatore > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 6 06:07:10 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2007 08:07:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 321 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <473020AE.20021.36AEA0A@localhost> On 5 Nov 2007 at 23:48, JmyB at aol.com wrote: > > I have just returned from a week long trip into So. Ca. The TR > > ran like a dream the entire trip. ....... > Took a similar trip in the family TR6 coupla years ago...101 > south following the coast from Tillamook Oregon to Ventura Calif > with an extra side trip or two over the coast mountains... Though I live 3000 miles away I'm envious. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.22/1112 - Release Date: 11/5/2007 7:11 PM From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Nov 6 06:25:25 2007 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 07:25:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body from frame In-Reply-To: <017601c82013$4deaa570$03d30c47@alan> References: <017601c82013$4deaa570$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <000901c82078$7e5e1b00$6501a8c0@idea.com> Al, Got my 4A body on a dolly right now as I do all of the body work before its off to the painter. I highly recommend removing the doors and bracing with bars. I had some made of angle iron which simply bolt on using holes that are already there (windscreen mounts in front, something near door in back). Limited by floor space, I ended up constructing a pulley system so I could lift and store the body overhead while working on the chassis, etc. below. Now that the chassis/drivetrain portion of my project is completed, I constructed the aforementioned dolly and lowered the tub down on to it, bars still in place. It is wonderful to be able to easliy roll the body all over the shop! Check out pics at: Tub lifting at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/restoration/body.asp Dolly pics at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/restoration/bodyRenew.asp -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 7:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body from frame Hopefully, this may be the week the frame is going to get straighten. Though, I am not holding my breath. After that I have to take the body off the frame. Has anyone had any experience taking the body off with the doors left in place? Or is it best to take the doors off and brace the shell? Thanks Al Salvatore This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Nov 6 07:20:58 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2007 09:20:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Broken Diff Mounts? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8C9EE9762E921AB-E24-4D@WEBMAIL-MA10.sysops.aol.com> Al, If I understand correctly, isnt the worst that could happen if you installed an oil thermostat and it failed stuck closed is that you would be operating without an oil cooler, (like the rest of us) and if it stuck open it would be the same set-up as you have now?? Either way no real problem, right? Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: AEGDesign at aol.com To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: rick at sidedrafttbi.com; Acekraut11 at aol.com Sent: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 8:21 am Subject: Re: Broken Diff Mounts? Sounds like the Toyota 5 speed replacement will repair the click. ? Can't blame Rick.? Remember Bob, I followed you up I-91 on the way to the British Invasion at your pace.? Everything past us, even the mowing crew, and they were mowing the rode edges.? ? I am still driving also, but with the top up (lazy).??I am concern that my oil cooler does not allow the?oil (Red Line 20/50) to reach a good operating temp in the late evening.? ?I do need the oil cooler thermostat or maybe just a cover to restrict?air passage.? I will try the cover?and take note of the water temp being that the cover on the cooler will also block a portion of the radiator.?? I am not keen on the oil thermostat in place without a oil temp gauge.? Without the oil temp gauge one will never know if the thermostat is operating properly.?? Always something. ? Happy holidays guys, ? Al See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage. ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From NPaul72464 at aol.com Tue Nov 6 07:37:24 2007 From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 09:37:24 EST Subject: [TR] Successful trip. Message-ID: Tom, I highly recommend your cross country trip! My son and I recently returned from a trip in my Austin Healey 3000 from Rochester, NY to the Grand Canyon, then into Arizona, and back a more southern route. over 5000 miles. It was quite an adventure without serious issues with the car. Though, I must admit I was a bit anxious crossing the Navajo reservation (desolate emptiness and no cell service) with a leaky radiator hose. I had a lot of stuff on a luggage rack mounted on the trunk. I rigged up a rear view mirror on a hand clamp that enabled me to see over the luggage. Let me know if you'd like details. Have a grand time. Ned Paulsen 1958 TR3 1960 Healey BN7 ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 6 08:04:39 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 07:04:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix In-Reply-To: <3FAB1C54A4D0470693B5B11AEC8EFF2C@EricButschekPC> Message-ID: <20071106150439.TPUX3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > I would add... I don't remember the year of the auto we are > discussing... > but if it has a "ballast resister", take it out and trash it > as electronic ignitions need a full 12 volt supply... Well, yeah ... except that with a Pertronix, if the coil originally needed an external ballast, it still does. If you just remove the ballast, then the coil & Pertronix unit will overheat. And, since this is a late TR6, the ballast is part of the wiring harness, which is kind of needed for other things. But getting a full 12v to the Pertronix is exactly why John is looking for a source of switched 12v. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Nov 6 08:21:09 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 10:21:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Successful trip. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000c01c82088$ac8b23a0$210110ac@bobspc> Ned, What a great trip.....I hope you chronicled it somewhere on the web. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of NPaul72464 at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 9:37 AM To: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Successful trip. Tom, I highly recommend your cross country trip! My son and I recently returned from a trip in my Austin Healey 3000 from Rochester, NY to the Grand Canyon, then into Arizona, and back a more southern route. over 5000 miles. It was quite an adventure without serious issues with the car. Though, I must admit I was a bit anxious crossing the Navajo reservation (desolate emptiness and no cell service) with a leaky radiator hose. I had a lot of stuff on a luggage rack mounted on the trunk. I rigged up a rear view mirror on a hand clamp that enabled me to see over the luggage. Let me know if you'd like details. Have a grand time. Ned Paulsen 1958 TR3 1960 Healey BN7 ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.22/1112 - Release Date: 11/5/2007 7:11 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.22/1112 - Release Date: 11/5/2007 7:11 PM From motorcarriage at charter.net Tue Nov 6 08:44:11 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 10:44:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix References: <20071106150439.TPUX3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <009001c8208b$e04fd390$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Hi Guy's, When I did my 75 TR6 over to Pertronix I did scrap the Ballast system which necessitated changing my Coil. I put a Lucas Sports Coil in and moved the white and yellow wire(if I remember correctly) (the feed) from the starter relay to a spare terminal on the fusebox. Wayne Lee Douglas,MA 58 TR3 64 TR4 75 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 10:04 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix >> I would add... I don't remember the year of the auto we are >> discussing... >> but if it has a "ballast resister", take it out and trash it >> as electronic ignitions need a full 12 volt supply... > > Well, yeah ... except that with a Pertronix, if the coil originally needed > an external ballast, it still does. If you just remove the ballast, then > the coil & Pertronix unit will overheat. And, since this is a late TR6, > the > ballast is part of the wiring harness, which is kind of needed for other > things. > > But getting a full 12v to the Pertronix is exactly why John is looking for > a > source of switched 12v. > > Randall From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Nov 6 08:55:05 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 10:55:05 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Re: Removing TR6 body from frame In-Reply-To: <01b601c82023$b70743f0$03d30c47@alan> References: <017601c82013$4deaa570$03d30c47@alan> <01b601c82023$b70743f0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: On Mon, 5 Nov 2007, Alan Salvatore wrote: > Seems the prefered way is to remove the doors. > > I don't need to do any paint work in that area. > Is there a way to brace the door area without welding ? You can bolt a piece of angle from the dash support hole on the A post (a single 1/4-28 bolt) to the convert. top mount holes on the B post. I use 2" angle that's thick - 3/16" min. The 1/8" angle isn't stiff enough. I also like to bolt in a piece from the upper seat belt mount on the wheel arches. Doing both makes the tub pretty stiff. If you're paranoid, then bolt some angle across the two side angles (side to side) and think about at least one diagonal brace so the think can't twist. > Al Salvatore regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From ebutschek at austin.rr.com Tue Nov 6 13:49:44 2007 From: ebutschek at austin.rr.com (Eric Butschek) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 14:49:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] Ballast resistors and Electronic ignition In-Reply-To: <20071106150439.TPUX3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20071106150439.TPUX3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <0B10A0A774464F06B62C07C948E5A43E@EricButschekPC> I dissagree... ballast resisters were used with points ignitions in the 60's when everyone went to electronic ignitions in the 70's... they lost the ballast resistor and the 2nd hot wire from the solenoid... I mean what is the amperage draw through a Pertronix Ignition Modual?.... 100 milli amps max? Over heat the coil? This is a 76 TR6.. it allready had electronic ignition... there's no "hidden" ballast ressistor... the ones I've replaced are as big as my thumb and usually mounted to the firewall next to the coil.. I do agree that the coils probably should be matched to the system, check with the manufactor, as on motorcycles with new ignitions ( Dyna, IIS) that are fully computer chip controled, No centrificul advance, they do recomend higher impedence? coils. Man I love this list! Eric, Austin Tx. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 9:04 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Connecting red wire on Pertronix >> I would add... I don't remember the year of the auto we are >> discussing... >> but if it has a "ballast resister", take it out and trash it >> as electronic ignitions need a full 12 volt supply... > > Well, yeah ... except that with a Pertronix, if the coil originally needed > an external ballast, it still does. If you just remove the ballast, then > the coil & Pertronix unit will overheat. And, since this is a late TR6, > the > ballast is part of the wiring harness, which is kind of needed for other > things. > > But getting a full 12v to the Pertronix is exactly why John is looking for > a > source of switched 12v. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From motorcarriage at charter.net Tue Nov 6 14:07:46 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 16:07:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ballast resistors and Electronic ignition References: <20071106150439.TPUX3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> <0B10A0A774464F06B62C07C948E5A43E@EricButschekPC> Message-ID: <00f401c820b9$1462d880$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Hi Eric, I learned one thing today, and I suspect You will too. For me it's that a 76 TR6 had electronic Ignition. I thought my 75 was the same as a 76. That is that it had a Points, Condensor, and Ballasted Ignition system. I think what Randall was refering to was having a 6 Volt Coil running on 12 Volts. I don't claim to know the effect on the Pertronix module, but I think it's possible to damage it from such a mistake. The Ballast is inline in the wiring from the Ignition Switch on my 75 TR6. Wayne Lee Douglas,MA 58 TR3 64 TR4 75 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Butschek" To: "Randall" ; Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 3:49 PM Subject: [TR] Ballast resistors and Electronic ignition >I dissagree... > > ballast resisters were used with points ignitions in the 60's > > when everyone went to electronic ignitions in the 70's... they lost the > ballast resistor and the 2nd hot wire from the solenoid... > > I mean what is the amperage draw through a Pertronix Ignition Modual?.... > 100 milli amps max? Over heat the coil? > > This is a 76 TR6.. it allready had electronic ignition... there's no > "hidden" ballast ressistor... the ones I've replaced are as big as my > thumb > and usually mounted to the firewall next to the coil.. > > I do agree that the coils probably should be matched to the system, check > with the manufactor, as on motorcycles with new ignitions ( Dyna, IIS) > that > are fully computer chip controled, No centrificul advance, they do > recomend > higher impedence? coils. > > Man I love this list! > Eric, Austin Tx. From Ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com Tue Nov 6 15:24:05 2007 From: Ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com (Ralph Steinberg) Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2007 17:24:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Turkey Bowl Message-ID: All, My apologies if you are receiving this more than once, or if you've already registered ... I just wanted to remind everyone on this list that you're invited to the 11th Annual Turkey Bowl at Summit Point (main course) on Thanksgiving weekend (Nov 23-25) -- and the earlybird discount deadline for Turkey Bowl entries is this Saturday, November 10th. Also, great news: the track has just been completely repaved! No more concrete patches, bumps or lumps. It's smooth as the proverbial baby's behind. If you enter & pay by Saturday it's only $250 for all three days! The entry form is attached, and also available on the VRG web site here: http://www.vrgonline.org/EVENTS/TURK/07TURKApp.pdf or go to www.vrgonline.org click on Events, then Turkey Bowl, and you'll find it there. You'll also find lots of useful information in the FAQ on the web site. If you've already sent your entry, tell your friends! We can always use a few more entries and we can accomodate nearly any car, vintage or modern, in either the VRG race groups or our partner's race groups. Hope to see you there! Mark Palmer VRG Event Chairman From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 6 15:42:49 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 14:42:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] Ballast resistors and Electronic ignition In-Reply-To: <0B10A0A774464F06B62C07C948E5A43E@EricButschekPC> References: <20071106150439.TPUX3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> <0B10A0A774464F06B62C07C948E5A43E@EricButschekPC> Message-ID: <105c01c820c6$5bbdfbd0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > ballast resisters were used with points ignitions in the 60's > > when everyone went to electronic ignitions in the 70's... > they lost the > ballast resistor and the 2nd hot wire from the solenoid... Your dates are rather off, at least with regards to Triumph cars. 60's Triumphs did not have external ballast resistors, but instead used coils with internal ballasts. The external ballast and "2nd hot wire" were introduced in the early 70's, to make starting easier with the added burden of smog equipment. > I mean what is the amperage draw through a Pertronix Ignition > Modual?.... > 100 milli amps max? Over heat the coil? The current through the coil (and Pertronix module) is several amps, not just milliamps. Since the Pertronix in effect shorts the coil terminal to ground, the ultimate current (after the coil inductor saturates) is limited only by the DC resistance of the coil, and the ballast resistance. A typical "external ballast required" coil has a DC resistance around 1.5 ohms, so we're talking current of nearly 10 amps. > This is a 76 TR6.. it allready had electronic ignition... there's no > "hidden" ballast ressistor... The factory documentation does not agree with you. Nor does Dan Masters or any other source I'm aware of (including my personal experience). The TR6 was never fitted with electronic ignition by the factory (hence the popularity of conversions like the Pertronix), and all TR6 from 1973 onwards had a ballast resistance incorporated in the wiring harness. > the ones I've replaced are as big as my thumb > and usually mounted to the firewall next to the coil.. Some Triumphs did have discrete ballast resistors (like my 71 Stag, although the Stag had it mounted to the coil on the engine). http://tinyurl.com/ywem3h But not the TR6. > I do agree that the coils probably should be matched to the > system, Converting to a coil that does not require an external ballast is a viable option for most electronic ignition conversions (though not all of them). OTOH it doesn't solve the problem of finding a switched 12v source for the Pertronix, and just adds cost to the conversion. Randall From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Tue Nov 6 16:13:06 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2007 17:13:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] looking for a TR guy Message-ID: <200711062311.lA6NBDt3068698@ns3.geneseo.net> At the Laughlin NV VTR event this fall, I met one of the owners who had installed a storage box in the engine compartment under the hood. Does anyone know who this is? uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Nov 6 16:50:36 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2007 23:50:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body from frame Message-ID: <110620072350.706.4730FDCC000AD3B8000002C222165258569C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > Hopefully, this may be the week the frame is going to get straighten. > Though, I am not holding my breath. > > After that I have to take the body off the frame. > > Has anyone had any experience taking the body off with the doors left in > place? > Or is it best to take the doors off and brace the shell? I removed the doors and the transmission tunnel on my TR3A, and...ehrm, uhm, harumph...sawed the body in half with a hacksaw. Considerably lighter in two pieces. Heartily recommended. Course then again, your car may have cost you more than the $500 I paid for mine, and may have floors that haven't rusted completely out, and rockers that have more than a half-rotten vein of solid steel left in them. Something to be said for hitting bottom, eh? ...Or for cars that no longer have a bottom, so to speak? ...And by the way, what about people who say, "That car is solid rust!" ...How can a car be solid if it's all rust???? Alas, the permutations are interminable! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 6 18:11:15 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2007 20:11:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] How did the trip go? Message-ID: <4730CA63.20473.601D4C2@localhost> Hey, Kevin Thompson! How did the Cope Cod British Car Club's trip to Newport work out? Hope you weren't rained out too badly. (For those of you not on the right coast, this trip coincided with the arrival on the New England coast of the remnants of what had been Hurricane Noel. By that time it was a mere Ittacane, not even a Himmacane, but it still packed significant winds and rain.) Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.22/1112 - Release Date: 11/5/2007 7:11 PM From motorcarriage at charter.net Tue Nov 6 18:15:40 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 20:15:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ballast resistors and Electronic ignition References: <20071106150439.TPUX3437.mta11.adelphia.net@randall><0B10A0A774464F06B62C07C948E5A43E@EricButschekPC> <00f401c820b9$1462d880$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> <006001c820cb$c199c830$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <000701c820db$b821d210$e8f00a47@D794W231> Ed, That was carcasm, tongue and cheek, or maybe just a retorical answer to the Electronic Ignition issue. I've sold a few 76 TR6 Tune Up Kits. It's just that I knew someone would enligten him very soon. How did I know it would be Randall?.I was expecting some activity after that!. The 12 Volt source for taking the inline Ballast Resistor out of the loop only involved removing the white and yellow wire (Power Source for ignition System) from one spaded terminal on the starter relay and slipping it on the switchable 12 Volt spare power source on the Fusebox. (probably about 2 " away,) Thanks for making sure I'm OK. Cheers, Wayne 58 TR3 64 TR4 75 TR6 Lola T598 www.motorcarriage.com > Wayne, > > With all due respect, no way did any TR6 originally, as in "factory", have > electronic ignition, just plain old points and condenser. We have a '76 > TR6 in the garage as proof. > > Ed Woods > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Wayne Lee" > To: "Triumph List" > Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 4:07 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Ballast resistors and Electronic ignition > > >> Hi Eric, >> I learned one thing today, and I suspect You will too. For me it's >> that >> a 76 TR6 had electronic Ignition. I thought my 75 was the same as a 76. >> That >> is that it had a Points, Condensor, and Ballasted Ignition system. I >> think >> what Randall was refering to was having a 6 Volt Coil running on 12 >> Volts. >> I don't claim to know the effect on the Pertronix module, but I think >> it's >> possible to damage it from such a mistake. >> The Ballast is inline in the wiring from the Ignition Switch on my 75 >> TR6. >> >> Wayne Lee >> Douglas,MA >> 58 TR3 >> 64 TR4 >> 75 TR6 >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Eric Butschek" >> To: "Randall" ; >> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 3:49 PM >> Subject: [TR] Ballast resistors and Electronic ignition >> >> >>>I dissagree... >>> >>> ballast resisters were used with points ignitions in the 60's >>> >>> when everyone went to electronic ignitions in the 70's... they lost the >>> ballast resistor and the 2nd hot wire from the solenoid... >>> >>> I mean what is the amperage draw through a Pertronix Ignition >>> Modual?.... >>> 100 milli amps max? Over heat the coil? >>> >>> This is a 76 TR6.. it allready had electronic ignition... there's no >>> "hidden" ballast ressistor... the ones I've replaced are as big as my >>> thumb >>> and usually mounted to the firewall next to the coil.. >>> >>> I do agree that the coils probably should be matched to the system, >>> check >>> with the manufactor, as on motorcycles with new ignitions ( Dyna, IIS) >>> that >>> are fully computer chip controled, No centrificul advance, they do >>> recomend >>> higher impedence? coils. >>> >>> Man I love this list! >>> Eric, Austin Tx. >> _______________________________________________ From tom.wags at gmail.com Tue Nov 6 18:57:08 2007 From: tom.wags at gmail.com (Tom Wagner) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 19:57:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge - 72 TR6 Message-ID: <4e74fbc30711061757m12b6247dgae21363e16ed299f@mail.gmail.com> To All: Can someone tell me if there is a simple test I can run that will tell me if the temp gauge is faulty or not??? Also if the unit is bad can they be fixed without much trouble??? Thanks -- Tom Wagner 72 TR 6 67 MGB Gravette, AR 72736 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 6 19:10:02 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 18:10:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge - 72 TR6 In-Reply-To: <4e74fbc30711061757m12b6247dgae21363e16ed299f@mail.gmail.com> References: <4e74fbc30711061757m12b6247dgae21363e16ed299f@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <106301c820e3$4e828220$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Can someone tell me if there is a simple test I can run that will > tell me if the temp gauge is faulty or not??? IMO, depends a great deal on what you consider "faulty". If you can run the engine and see the gauge rise, then it works to at least some extent. Everything after that is just a matter of how accurate it is. (If you can't run the engine, then temporarily connect a jumper from the sender wire to ground and turn the key on.) > Also if the unit is bad > can they be fixed without much trouble??? Sure, send it off to Mo-Ma to be refurbished :^) Seriously, if it doesn't work at all (and the problem is inside the gauge), then it's probably not worth fooling with. But if it's a matter of poor calibration, they can be recalibrated with some effort. One of the things I always look for to judge temp gauge performance is what it reads when the thermostat opens. If you start the engine from cold, the gauge should rise relatively rapidly at first. Then it should stop rising when it gets to where the thermostat opens. If you have the engine just idling in your drive, you can tell when this happens by feeling the air coming off the radiator fan; it will suddenly get warm when the Tstat opens. Assuming your Tstat works and is a 180F model, this should be fairly close to 180F, which I like to see somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 on the temperature gauge. Randall From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Nov 6 19:25:30 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 21:25:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 fender/bonnet/apron gaps Message-ID: <057601c820e5$804a9430$ab94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Okay, After mounting the outer fender on the inner fender, the apron mounted to the inner fender, and the bonnet mounted to the hinges, and with all bolts loose except the inner fender to apron bolts which are relatively tight, I now have a good feeling of what must be done. (Pics available of my predicament) The gaps on both sides of the car are the same. On each side the gaps increase to up to 1/2" between the outer fender and hood, and 3/8" between the outer fender and apron. The fender/hood gap and the fender/apron gap are next to each other. But I've been told that these gaps can be dealt with. If one applies two cinch type straps: one attached between the radiator stays, and the other where the horns go. One of these anchors might come loose but they can repaired, eyes could even be attached to the fenders and later removed. Andrew Uprichard told me this pulled-in this gap nicely; have others had success with this method? Of course in my case, pulling out the apron gap will be sufficient, since this will get most of the bonnet side gaps! Thanks for the TR3 enlightenment! Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From darrellw at ipns.com Wed Nov 7 09:36:00 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 08:36:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] Manifold clamps on TR4A when installing Webers Message-ID: <489D6C4E-8909-4E06-A368-B39045E808E5@ipns.com> I'm getting closer to being ready for the final mounting of my DCOE Webers on my TR4A. One thing I still need to solve is what to do about the manifold clamps. The flange on the intake manifold is about 1/8" thicker than the exhaust header. I've come up with a few ideas, but was wondering if anyone had better ones: -Grind out half of each clamp by 1/8" -Grind down the intake where the clamps press. But I don't have any way to do this and still look nice, and the top ones are quite visible. -Have the entire intake mounting surface ground down by 1/8". Not sure if this can be done while maintaining alignment, but this would probably be the best looking solution. I also don't know if removal of 1/8" of the flange would weaken the intake enough to be an issue (could be a problem with the solution above). -Build up something on one have of the clamps. I don't have any way to weld, though I could perhaps drill and tape a hole to insert a screw/bolt, and use the head as the additional space. Any other ideas, or comments on the ones I have? Thanks, Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From kthompson at whoi.edu Wed Nov 7 09:44:02 2007 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2007 11:44:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] How did the trip go? Message-ID: <4731EB52.1020802@whoi.edu> Hi Jim, Well, in fact, we had a blast!! The itinerary was shifted a bit to work around the storm. Lot's of great restaurants and shopping opportunities for my navigator and I on Friday, as it was a wonderful day for taking a stroll through town. And having the gale force winds kick in for Saturday made for fantastic ocean viewing. The mansion tour was also on Saturday, and the meet-n-greet that night. Although we missed it due to a late lunch, then back to our room for a little reading and relaxing. We got too relaxed and fell asleep. The clues tour was Sunday, and was a nice sunny day. I think there were about 35 or 40 folks who showed up. The lodging was great, too. So, now for the lbc content......or lack of it. On Thursday I put my TR3 in the shed, and took out the 6 for packing up in the garage the day before we left. While doing a quick blast down the street I noticed the oil pressure was a bit lower than usual. Having new oil and a filter on the shelf, I drained the old stuff and found it had about a half quart of gas in it. So, I pulled the fuel pump off, and only had 2 around the house-both probably in the same shape as the one I removed. And. I just didn't have the time to set up an electric pump and the wiring to make it right. The TR3, having just recently been put on the road after a 2 year restoration, is having clutch problems. Well, actually, the clutch master cylinder. It was bought new a year and a half ago, installed 6 months ago, and has about 30 miles on it over the last few weeks during shakedown runs. Sometimes the pedal drops near the floor and sometimes it's way up, when shifting the gears.(after repeated bleeding produced no air bubbles) Seems that the seal is leaking by. I just took that off (man, what a PIA!!!!) and sent it back to TRF for a replacement. So Jim........we took my wifes truck for the weekend. (hey, at least it wasn't a boat like last time you were down here) Fact is, I didn't get too depressed since I rather liked the idea of both lbc's in the garage/shed when a hurricane was predicted......and the thought of having to do roadside repairs in such conditions didn't appeal to me, although it does make great fodder "down the road".......... Our next club event is the Freezin Fun for Kids Run.......on November 18th. take care, Kevin T Cape Cod British Car Club http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org/ Jim asked: Hey, Kevin Thompson! How did the Cape Cod British Car Club's trip to Newport work out? Hope you weren't rained out too badly. (For those of you not on the right coast, this trip coincided with the arrival on the New England coast of the remnants of what had been Hurricane Noel. By that time it was a mere Ittacane, not even a Himmacane, but it still packed significant winds and rain.) Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Nov 7 10:52:24 2007 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 09:52:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR7 info Message-ID: I have learned that Triumphs Only of Stockton, CA has obtained several "reverse engineered" Vacuum Advance Units for the TR7. I think these were previously made of "unobtainium", they have been the project of a Retired (bored) Engineer, and appear to be very well made. (NFI) you can contact the owner at: trnut at aol.com -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Nov 7 10:52:24 2007 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 09:52:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR7 info Message-ID: I have learned that Triumphs Only of Stockton, CA has obtained several "reverse engineered" Vacuum Advance Units for the TR7. I think these were previously made of "unobtainium", they have been the project of a Retired (bored) Engineer, and appear to be very well made. (NFI) you can contact the owner at: trnut at aol.com -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 7 12:31:24 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2007 19:31:24 +0000 Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge - 72 TR6 Message-ID: <110720071931.20716.4732128C00023250000050EC22007637049D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Remove from car and immerse in boiling water? Have a small hot-pot that will fit in the engine comartment? From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 7 12:51:01 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2007 19:51:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ballast resistors and Electronic ignition Message-ID: <110720071951.21871.47321725000593630000556F22007637049D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Eric Butschek" > I do agree that the coils probably should be matched to the system, That's why I got a new Pertronix coil to go with my Pertronix ignition. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From motorcarriage at charter.net Wed Nov 7 13:15:10 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 15:15:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ballast resistors and Electronic ignition References: <110720071951.21871.47321725000593630000556F22007637049D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00e801c8217a$e600adb0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> I put a Pertronix Coil on my Silver Cloud when I put the Pertronix module in. That was a 1.5 Ohm unit. They recommend a 3.0 ohm for all 4 cylinder and most 6 cylinder applications. I modified my Pertronix Coil when installing it though. I peeled the "Made in China " sticker off. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas,MA 58 TR3 64 TR4 75 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Eric Butschek" ; "Randall" ; Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 2:51 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Ballast resistors and Electronic ignition > From: "Eric Butschek" > >> I do agree that the coils probably should be matched to the system, > > That's why I got a new Pertronix coil to go with my Pertronix ignition. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, > 1994 Miata C package > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net Wed Nov 7 13:45:23 2007 From: lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net (Larry Griffin) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 15:45:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) In-Reply-To: <472DD3DA.2030007@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <026e01c8217f$2087e800$6101a8c0@griffin001> About 25 years ago I attended an air show at Oceana Naval Air Station that included lots of old war birds. I stayed around as long as possible after the show and got to hear a B-25 start up from close range before it took off. What an awesome sound!! > TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > The air field at Fort Ord has become a private field that has started to > have an annual show. The day after their show ended I saw a B-25 flying > over my house. Its not a bad neighborhood if you like the sound of war > birds. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.24/1115 - Release Date: 11/7/2007 9:21 AM From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Wed Nov 7 14:12:40 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2007 16:12:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) In-Reply-To: <026e01c8217f$2087e800$6101a8c0@griffin001> Message-ID: >About 25 years ago I attended an air show at Oceana Naval Air Station that >included lots of old war birds. I stayed around as long as possible after >the show and got to hear a B-25 start up from close range before it took >off. What an awesome sound!! B-25s have a great exhaust sound! I think that this is because they don't use a turbosupercharger, which acts as a muffler. A B-17 is much more quiet and I think that this is because it uses a turbosupercharger as well as a gear-driven supercharger. Not to kill anyone's buzz, but lots of the sound an aircraft makes on take-off comes from the prop. Especially when it's coming towards you and is loudest when you are in the plane of the prop. As it goes past, you hear more exhaust note. The blaaatting sound a T-6 makes on take-off is from the prop tips nearing the speed of sound. Like lots of little sonic booms as the prop turns. Sorry to put a technical spin on the subject of cool exhaust notes. John From ebutschek at austin.rr.com Wed Nov 7 14:16:45 2007 From: ebutschek at austin.rr.com (Eric Butschek) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 15:16:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] was ballast resistor/ electronic ignition, now I was wrong and an apology In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dear List, Please allow a most humble apology. After re-reading my post from the other day, it appears I was rather sarcastic and even rude. I certainly meant no offence to anyone. This list and especially Randal have provided me a wealth of info and reading pleasure. Add to that it appears I was just plain wrong. I am surprised that by '76 the TR6 would still have points ignition. I have never owned a TR6, so I took a rather ( uneducated ) wild guess. My '78 Spitfire does have Lucas electronic ignition. Per my Haynes Spitfire manual, the Spitfire got electronic ignition starting in '75, but on North American vehicles only. That seems odd to me, but maybe it was an emmisions thing or that it may have been a more expensive option. The haynes manual shows units prior to '75 as Lucas contact breaker ignition with 12v coil and no mention of a ballast resistor at all. '75 on as Lucas breakerless ignition with " 6v coil and ballast resistor". They show a drawing of the resistor as a fairly large metal thing mounted on the air pump bracket or later incorporated into the wiring harness. I stand corrected. Please excuse my lame attempt at advice. I will check my facts better before hitting the send button. I hope someday to own a Full Sized Triumph. Perhaps a TR3. ( I'm going out on a limb here ) I am fairly certain they did not have electronic ignition! Eric, Austin Tx. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Nov 7 15:15:32 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 22:15:32 -0000 Subject: [TR] Exhaust notes (off topic?) References: Message-ID: <01a201c8218b$b6eb8c00$0201a8c0@Bevan> John Herrera's observations about exhaust and propellor noise was absolutely correct. It's true the prop does make one helluva racket in it's own right. One of prop noises I really enjoy is the snarl you get when changing from coarse to fine pitch - or vice versa. There's another (as yet unstated noise) with aircraft engines. It's when you 'surge' a turbo-prop gas turbine and it goes bang. The sound of compressor and turbine blades spinning round the test cell x000rpm makes a John Wayne western gunfight seem positively tame. How do I know this? Let's just say the incident in question considerably foreshortened my anticipated career with the Rolls Royce Aero Engine Division back in the '60's and that's how I got to be with Standard-Triumph. I often think about that RR 'Tyne' engine and how it absolutely didn't shape my later career. If it had, I wouldn't have come to know all you great people :) Jonmac PS To add in the Triumph content, a 2000 or 2500 6 pot engine (preferably injected) with a decent 6-3-1 manifold, just one rear silencer and a resonator is still a fabulous sound under heavy load at about 4500rpm. From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Nov 7 16:44:19 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2007 18:44:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] was ballast resistor/ electronic ignition, now I was wrong and an apology In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47320783.9066.19C08E4@localhost> On 7 Nov 2007 at 15:16, Eric Butschek wrote: > Please allow a most humble apology. Very magnanamous of you. Speaking only for myself, I will say I am never offended by "focused" technical discussion. Personal attack, yes; offensive language, maybe. Technical arguments, no. (We all know the world is flat anyway.) > I am surprised that by '76 the TR6 would still have points > ignition... My '78 Spitfire does have Lucas electronic ignition. I've never been quite sure of the history of Lucas' electronic ignition systems. My '80 Spitfire has the Lucas "Constant Energy Ignition" system, but I was told it was a factory upgrade to a different system. What is yours? I've mentioned this before but I'll say it again. Inside the CEI control box (the unit which bears the label "Do not open, hazardous material inside") there is nothing more than a GM electronic ignition module, the late 80's version with 4 connection tabs. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.23/1114 - Release Date: 11/6/2007 8:05 PM From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Wed Nov 7 11:11:54 2007 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 10:11:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2 Clutch Woes Message-ID: Hi All - I'm having problems bleeding my clutch hydraulic system, and I'm hoping that the combined wisdom of this list will have a solution. I have the old style master cylinder, where the brake and clutch master cyclinders and reservoir are combined into one unit.I previously had some leakage problems on the brake side of the unit. At that time, both systems pumped up fine and held pressure, and I was able to drive the car. I bled both systems the normal way (pushing in the pedal, releasing the bleed nipple until the pedal goes to the floor, then closing the bleeed nipple before releasing the pedal). Because the leakage was ruining the paint (I use Dot 4), I took it apart, and sent the mastercylinder to Apple Hydraulics to be rebuilt. And repainted the firewall.Last night, I reassembled everything, and tried to bleed the 2 systems. The brakes were fine. After the air was purged, they pumped up, and held pressure with no leaks.The clutch side is a different story. I can't seem to build up any pressure in the system. To test it, and to try to isolate the possible problem, I disconnected the solid metal line and the flexible line. When the pedal was pumped, there was pressure at the end of the solid line. Enough to spray brake fluid all over that side of the engine when I released my finger. Therefore, it seems that the master cylinder is OK, and there is no blockage or air in the solid line.Next, I took off the flexible line. I thought that maybe it had collapsed. It looked fine, and I was able to blow air through from both directions. It is also only a couple years old.Before I reconnected the flexible line to the slave cylinder, I put my finger over the hole, and pumped it from the clutch side. It created pressure. BTW, the slave cylinder is only a couple months old, and is new, not rebuilt.When I try to bleed the system, I can get no pressure when attempting to bleed as I do with brakes.When I attempt to bleed the opposite way (opening the bleed nipple before pushing in the pedal), I can create some pressure, but not enough to fully disengage the clutch. I can detect no leaks, air or fluid, in the connections, and all are tight.When I just open the bleed nipple and let it run through the hose, gravity allows the fluid to flow out, and there is a lot of air bubbles. This would also seem to indicate that there is no blockage in the system, otherwise the fluid would not syphon from the master cylinder. I ran about 1/2 bottle of LMA through the clutch system last night, and am still stumped.Any suggestions? What am I doing wrong? What am I missing?Thanks, in advance, for all of your help and advice,David Gunn1954 TR2 TS3388LChico, CA Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by today! _________________________________________________________________ Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us Reporting-MTA: dns;bay0-omc1-s21.bay0.hotmail.com Received-From-MTA: dns;BAY143-W34 Arrival-Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 10:08:50 -0800 Final-Recipient: rfc822;tr at autox.team.net Action: failed Status: 5.1.1 Diagnostic-Code: smtp;550 5.1.1 : Recipient address rejected: User unknown in local recipient table From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 7 21:48:27 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 20:48:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2 Clutch Woes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071108044826.DSRR26225.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > When the pedal was pumped, there was > pressure at the end of the solid line. Enough to spray brake > fluid all over that side of the engine when I released my > finger. David, are you saying you were able to hold the pressure with your finger ?? If so, there must be something seriously wrong (or mostly air) before that point. I think my next step would be to repeat this experiment right at the outlet of the MC. If it still doesn't build enough pressure to blow your finger off, then the MC itself is at fault. The rest of your report seems to suggest the same thing, to me. Randall From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Nov 8 04:30:28 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 06:30:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Manifold clamps on TR4A when installing Webers In-Reply-To: <489D6C4E-8909-4E06-A368-B39045E808E5@ipns.com> Message-ID: <000301c821fa$c489b980$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Darrell: My sources tell me the last option is correct, ie. blob of weld one side to compensate and flat on the inlet manifold side - see attached picture. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Darrell Walker Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 11:36 AM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Manifold clamps on TR4A when installing Webers I'm getting closer to being ready for the final mounting of my DCOE Webers on my TR4A. One thing I still need to solve is what to do about the manifold clamps. The flange on the intake manifold is about 1/8" thicker than the exhaust header. I've come up with a few ideas, but was wondering if anyone had better ones: -Grind out half of each clamp by 1/8" -Grind down the intake where the clamps press. But I don't have any way to do this and still look nice, and the top ones are quite visible. -Have the entire intake mounting surface ground down by 1/8". Not sure if this can be done while maintaining alignment, but this would probably be the best looking solution. I also don't know if removal of 1/8" of the flange would weaken the intake enough to be an issue (could be a problem with the solution above). -Build up something on one have of the clamps. I don't have any way to weld, though I could perhaps drill and tape a hole to insert a screw/bolt, and use the head as the additional space. Any other ideas, or comments on the ones I have? Thanks, Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of PICT00kki (2).JPG] From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu Thu Nov 8 05:57:33 2007 From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 07:57:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] was ballast resistor/ electronic ignition, now I was wrong and an apology In-Reply-To: <47320783.9066.19C08E4@localhost> References: <47320783.9066.19C08E4@localhost> Message-ID: With this talk of electronic ignition, let me throw in another question. I too have a 1980 Spit with Lucas electronic ignition. Over the last few years that once reliable system has let me down a few times. It seems that every time it does, I can "fix" it by fiddling with the bolts that hold the module down. I think it is a ground problem. Am I correct in assuming that the module body is supposed to be grounded. I am going to try for a more permanent fix for this problem (not working right now again), but I want to be sure that grounding is the proper course of action. Tim 1980 Spitfire 1974 TR6 >On 7 Nov 2007 at 15:16, Eric Butschek wrote: > >> Please allow a most humble apology. > >Very magnanamous of you. Speaking only for myself, I will say I am >never offended by "focused" technical discussion. Personal attack, >yes; offensive language, maybe. Technical arguments, no. (We all >know the world is flat anyway.) > >> I am surprised that by '76 the TR6 would still have points >> ignition... My '78 Spitfire does have Lucas electronic ignition. > >I've never been quite sure of the history of Lucas' electronic >ignition systems. My '80 Spitfire has the Lucas "Constant Energy >Ignition" system, but I was told it was a factory upgrade to a >different system. What is yours? > >I've mentioned this before but I'll say it again. Inside the CEI >control box (the unit which bears the label "Do not open, hazardous >material inside") there is nothing more than a GM electronic ignition >module, the late 80's version with 4 connection tabs. > >-- >Jim Muller >jimmuller at rcn.com >'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Nov 8 06:04:56 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 08:04:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] was ballast resistor/ electronic ignition, now I was wrong and an apology References: <47320783.9066.19C08E4@localhost> Message-ID: <000701c82207$f6314a40$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Yes, the box needs to be grounded. As well the steel leads need to be clean. If you're inquisitive, you can open that box and admire the bone stock GM HEI ignition module sitting in it. And as long as you're there, you can question my Triumph or Lucas or whomever decided that the GM ignition needed a bunch of other gee-gaws installed onto it. Personally, I disconnected the various capacitors and resisters and such. Most were corroded into non-functionality anyways. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Gaines" To: Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 7:57 AM Subject: Re: [TR] was ballast resistor/ electronic ignition,now I was wrong and an apology > ground problem. Am I correct in assuming that the module body is > supposed to be grounded. I am going to try for a more permanent fix > for this problem (not working right now again), but I want to be > sure that grounding is the proper course of action. From jmerone at rocketmail.com Thu Nov 8 07:14:58 2007 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 06:14:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 Message-ID: <600259.52467.qm@web30914.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I work for the public television network here in Vermont, and back in 1980 I had the opportunity to actually get a ride in a B-25. We did a story on a young dairy farmer and aviation freak up here who found the remains of a Mitchell B-25 in a field somewhere in Virginia. It was a rotting mess and beyond hope, but he hauled it home and rebuilt it in his barn by himself. Sound's kind of familiar doesn't it? Two years later he told us it was ready to fly - come on down and get a ride. I did stop and think "hey we're going to fly a homemade airplane - without parachutes" but there was no way I wasn't going. The B-25 is a two-engined, medium bomber designed to take-off from smaller runways. Doolittle's raid on Tokyo was with B-25s actually launched from an aircraft carrier. Our ride was slow and lumbering, but beautiful, and LOUD. Yowza! Forty-five minutes later, after buzzing the Green Mountains at the height of fall foliage, we were back on the ground. The owner campaigned it at air shows for a few years and then sold it for some big bucks. He continued to move up in class (sound familiar) and even built and flew a MIG21 for a while. Joe Merone CF18928 5-speed Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu Thu Nov 8 08:15:11 2007 From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 10:15:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] electronic ignition, In-Reply-To: <000701c82207$f6314a40$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us> References: <47320783.9066.19C08E4@localhost> <000701c82207$f6314a40$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: Actually I have opened the box and found lots of empty space, one capacitor, one ???? embedded in the case (maybe a transistor?), and one "secret" insert with a warning about berillium (sp?). I don't have much idea what any of it does unless a transistor is switching voltage on and off in response to some input. Tim >Yes, the box needs to be grounded. As well the steel leads need to be >clean. > >If you're inquisitive, you can open that box and admire the bone stock GM >HEI ignition module sitting in it. > >And as long as you're there, you can question my Triumph or Lucas or >whomever decided that the GM ignition needed a bunch of other gee-gaws >installed onto it. Personally, I disconnected the various capacitors and >resisters and such. Most were corroded into non-functionality anyways. > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Tim Gaines" >To: >Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 7:57 AM >Subject: Re: [TR] was ballast resistor/ electronic ignition,now I was wrong >and an apology > > >> ground problem. Am I correct in assuming that the module body is >> supposed to be grounded. I am going to try for a more permanent fix >> for this problem (not working right now again), but I want to be > > sure that grounding is the proper course of action. From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Nov 8 09:00:35 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2007 11:00:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 References: <600259.52467.qm@web30914.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <006d01c82220$8039ab20$a2237247@fred8kwiskhcfu> A few years back some "fly guys" knew about a P58 "Lockheed Lighting" buried in the "ICE" in Greenland from WWll, took them a couple of years and many millions to remove it from the 80 ft depth of ice and then a complete nuts and bolts rebuild, plane is worth untold $$$$ today, the head engineer on the project is a TR 4 race driver from Georgia, maybe some list members from down that way know more of whom and when, than I do will fill in the spots left out "FT" From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Thu Nov 8 09:11:14 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 08:11:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: <006d01c82220$8039ab20$a2237247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5AF@mail2.sr.local> Some years ago PBS (NOVA I think) did a great show about the crew that excavated that P58 from the ice. Had they only waited a few years Global Warming would have done the ice removal for them. Deano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FRED E THOMAS Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 8:01 AM To: Joe Merone; Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] Engine noise B-25 A few years back some "fly guys" knew about a P58 "Lockheed Lighting" buried in the "ICE" in Greenland from WWll, took them a couple of years and many millions to remove it from the 80 ft depth of ice and then a complete nuts and bolts rebuild, plane is worth untold $$$$ today, the head engineer on the project is a TR 4 race driver from Georgia, maybe some list members from down that way know more of whom and when, than I do will fill in the spots left out "FT" _______________________________________________ From davidt at opentext.com Thu Nov 8 09:23:06 2007 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 11:23:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: <006d01c82220$8039ab20$a2237247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <600259.52467.qm@web30914.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <006d01c82220$8039ab20$a2237247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0791B10D@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> I say the documentary on that. I was absolutely glued to the tube for that. Fred, of course I am assuming you mean "glacier girl", http://p38assn.org/glacier-girl.htm David -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+davidt=opentext.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+davidt=opentext.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FRED E THOMAS Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 11:01 AM To: Joe Merone; Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] Engine noise B-25 A few years back some "fly guys" knew about a P58 "Lockheed Lighting" buried in the "ICE" in Greenland from WWll, took them a couple of years and many millions to remove it from the 80 ft depth of ice and then a complete nuts and bolts rebuild, plane is worth untold $$$$ today, the head engineer on the project is a TR 4 race driver from Georgia, maybe some list members from down that way know more of whom and when, than I do will fill in the spots left out "FT" This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Thu Nov 8 09:23:33 2007 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 08:23:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: <006d01c82220$8039ab20$a2237247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <501423.77753.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi Fred, the plane you referred to was named 'Glacier Gal' once the restoration was complete. You can find out all about it at their homepage: http://www.thelostsquadron.com/ Raymond --- FRED E THOMAS wrote: > A few years back some "fly guys" knew about a P58 "Lockheed Lighting" buried > in the "ICE" in Greenland from WWll, took them a couple of years and many > millions to remove it from the 80 ft depth of ice and then a complete nuts > and bolts rebuild, plane is worth untold $$$$ today, the head engineer on > the project is a TR 4 race driver from Georgia, maybe some list members from > down that way know more of whom and when, than I do will fill in the spots > left out "FT" > _______________________________________________ Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Thu Nov 8 09:26:05 2007 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 08:26:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5AF@mail2.sr.local> Message-ID: <779921.74367.qm@web81412.mail.mud.yahoo.com> It doesn't make any real difference here, but the "Lightning" was a P38. The Japanese called it thr "fork tailed devil" because of its twin booms. A remarkable fighter plane, but a bit hard to control. John Young --- "Paige, Dean" wrote: > Some years ago PBS (NOVA I think) did a great show > about the crew that > excavated that P58 from the ice. Had they only > waited a few years Global > Warming would have done the ice removal for them. > > Deano > > -----Original Message----- > From: > triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of FRED E THOMAS > Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 8:01 AM > To: Joe Merone; Triumph List > Subject: Re: [TR] Engine noise B-25 > > A few years back some "fly guys" knew about a P58 > "Lockheed Lighting" > buried in the "ICE" in Greenland from WWll, took > them a couple of years > and many millions to remove it from the 80 ft depth > of ice and then a > complete nuts and bolts rebuild, plane is worth > untold $$$$ today, the > head engineer on the project is a TR 4 race driver > from Georgia, maybe > some list members from down that way know more of > whom and when, than I > do will fill in the spots left out "FT" > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph > Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Nov 8 09:36:21 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 11:36:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 References: <600259.52467.qm@web30914.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000801c82225$7f83d660$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Every year or two the B-17 and a B-25 come to the airport near me. It's heavenly, as I'm on their flight path, and for a few days I get a bomber flying low over my house every couple of hours, even through the night. The first year was the best, as they were extremely low. I was running around like a nut-case, having never seen the likes of this before, and managed to catch one of their attention. The pilot of the B-25 leaned out of the window to wave at me as he passed by. From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Thu Nov 8 09:56:29 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 11:56:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] electronic ignition, In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C0799BE76@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Car powered by Beryllium sphere, Tim? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Gaines Sent: November 8, 2007 10:15 AM To: TRIUMPHS at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] electronic ignition, Actually I have opened the box and found lots of empty space, one capacitor, one ???? embedded in the case (maybe a transistor?), and one "secret" insert with a warning about berillium (sp?). I don't have much idea what any of it does unless a transistor is switching voltage on and off in response to some input. Tim >Yes, the box needs to be grounded. As well the steel leads need to be >clean. > >If you're inquisitive, you can open that box and admire the bone stock GM >HEI ignition module sitting in it. > >And as long as you're there, you can question my Triumph or Lucas or >whomever decided that the GM ignition needed a bunch of other gee-gaws >installed onto it. Personally, I disconnected the various capacitors and >resisters and such. Most were corroded into non-functionality anyways. > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Tim Gaines" >To: >Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 7:57 AM >Subject: Re: [TR] was ballast resistor/ electronic ignition,now I was wrong >and an apology > > >> ground problem. Am I correct in assuming that the module body is >> supposed to be grounded. I am going to try for a more permanent fix >> for this problem (not working right now again), but I want to be > > sure that grounding is the proper course of action. From Jeff.A.Williamson at jci.com Thu Nov 8 11:08:23 2007 From: Jeff.A.Williamson at jci.com (Jeff.A.Williamson at jci.com) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 13:08:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 Message-ID: Subject: Re: [TR] Engine noise B-25 Attachment(s): I live very near the Yankee Air Museum in Ypsilanti, MI., where they have 3 fully restored and flying WWII aircraft, a B17, a B25, and a C47. And like Nolan, I too am located under the flight path that these beautiful but LOUD aircraft use. But what a sight and sound it is when one of those birds flies over. In 2005, the museum hosted an air show where eight B17 Bombers were present, and flew in formation right over my house. That was reportedly the largest gathering of B17's since the war. What a sight! This year's show featured 15 B25 bombers. As they passed over, I was afraid my house was gonna fall down! And then came the Blue Angels!!! Jeff W. -------------Oeiginal Message------------ Every year or two the B-17 and a B-25 come to the airport near me. It's heavenly, as I'm on their flight path, and for a few days I get a bomber flying low over my house every couple of hours, even through the night. The first year was the best, as they were extremely low. I was running around like a nut-case, having never seen the likes of this before, and managed to catch one of their attention. The pilot of the B-25 leaned out of the window to wave at me as he passed by. (Embedded image moved to file: pic24021.jpg) [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of pic24021.jpg] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 8 11:29:02 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 10:29:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] electronic ignition, In-Reply-To: References: <47320783.9066.19C08E4@localhost><000701c82207$f6314a40$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <112801c82235$3cb2a1d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Actually I have opened the box and found lots of empty space, one > capacitor, one ???? embedded in the case (maybe a transistor?), and > one "secret" insert with a warning about berillium (sp?). I don't > have much idea what any of it does unless a transistor is switching > voltage on and off in response to some input. I don't know either, but that would make some sense. The GM module gets rather hot when the engine is not running but the key is on, so Leyland may have decided to cut it's power when the engine was not turning. And that would give them an excuse for building their own box, thereby (I suspect) avoiding some penalty for non-UK finished parts. Randall From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Nov 8 12:15:32 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 14:15:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] electronic ignition, References: <47320783.9066.19C08E4@localhost><000701c 82207$f6314a40$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us> <112801c82235$3cb2a1d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <000a01c8223b$bc51a020$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Not connected to any signals that would do that. I rather suspect the components were an attempt at radio noise reduction. A non problem with HEI. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 1:29 PM Subject: Re: [TR] electronic ignition, > The GM module gets > rather hot when the engine is not running but the key is on, so Leyland > may > have decided to cut it's power when the engine was not turning. And that > would give them an excuse for building their own box, thereby (I suspect) > avoiding some penalty for non-UK finished parts. From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Nov 8 12:18:38 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2007 14:18:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: >I live very near the Yankee Air Museum in Ypsilanti, MI., where they have 3 >fully restored and flying WWII aircraft, a B17, a B25, and a C47. And like >Nolan, I too am located under the flight path that these beautiful but LOUD >aircraft use. But what a sight and sound it is when one of those birds >flies over. In 2005, the museum hosted an air show where eight B17 Bombers >were present, and flew in formation right over my house. That was >reportedly the largest gathering of B17's since the war. What a sight! This >year's show featured 15 B25 bombers. As they passed over, I was afraid my >house was gonna fall down! And then came the Blue Angels!!! > >Jeff W. I taught A&P School at Frederick Airport in Maryland. The CAF used to put on Wings of Freedom there every September. The show coincided with the beginning of the semester. Planes arrived all during the week before the show, right when I had to get things ready for the new semester. Needless to say, it was hard to concentrate on work with all the arrivals and practicing! Friday the field was closed for practice. One time the 'phone rang when the F-18 was practicing. It was someone asking if airshow practice was on. I yelled, "I can't hear you. Airshow practice is going on!" Many ships stayed ater Sunday. I would take the new class on a tour of the field and they got to look at some old warbirds and listen to them leave and buzz the field. And watch them leave, too, as I would let them out of class to watch. John From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 8 13:03:52 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 12:03:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] electronic ignition, In-Reply-To: <000a01c8223b$bc51a020$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us> References: <47320783.9066.19C08E4@localhost><000701c82207$f6314a40$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us><112801c82235$3cb2a1d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <000a01c8223b$bc51a020$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <115001c82242$7c6bbac0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Not connected to any signals that would do that. How can you say that, Nolan ? It has to be connected to the ignition pickup; what better indication of whether the engine is turning or not ? BTW, the redesigned Crane XR700 does the same thing. The older units had trouble with overheating when the key was left on with the engine not running, so the newer ones shut down the pass transistor when the engine hasn't moved for several seconds. Randall From dkspence at telus.net Thu Nov 8 14:32:06 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 14:32:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25: now Yankee In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0904EF53-A61B-43B1-AFCC-EAF02B1ECCE9@telus.net> This subject is so off topic I hope you don't mind another tangent... Can anyone explain the origin of the term "Yankee"? Obviously during WW2 and since, all Americans have been referred to as Yanks or Yankees. I do understand that during and before the Civil War this was not the case. Where did it originate? Curious Canadian wants to know. Thanks On 8-Nov-07, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > I live very near the Yankee Air Museum in Ypsilanti, MI., where > they have 3 > fully restored and flying WWII aircraft, a B17, a B25, and a C47. > And like > Nolan, I too am located under the flight path that these beautiful > but LOUD > aircraft use. But what a sight and sound it is when one of those birds > flies over. In 2005, the museum hosted an air show where eight B17 > Bombers > were present, and flew in formation right over my house. That was > reportedly the largest gathering of B17's since the war. What a > sight! This > year's show featured 15 B25 bombers. As they passed over, I was > afraid my > house was gonna fall down! And then came the Blue Angels!!! From spitlist at cox.net Thu Nov 8 15:15:15 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 15:15:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25: now Yankee References: <0904EF53-A61B-43B1-AFCC-EAF02B1ECCE9@telus.net> Message-ID: <00a801c82254$d72b5e40$2d02a8c0@Belkin> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yankee This link has originsof the word towards the bottom of the page. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Spence" To: Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 2:32 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Engine noise B-25: now Yankee > This subject is so off topic I hope you don't mind another tangent... > Can anyone explain the origin of the term "Yankee"? Obviously during > WW2 and since, all Americans have been referred to as Yanks or > Yankees. I do understand that during and before the Civil War this > was not the case. Where did it originate? > Curious Canadian wants to know. > Thanks > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From skip47 at powernet.net Thu Nov 8 15:05:30 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 14:05:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25: now Yankee References: <0904EF53-A61B-43B1-AFCC-EAF02B1ECCE9@telus.net> Message-ID: <022f01c82253$7d8cab60$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Hi Don- The origins are apparently unclear, and are detailed on the net. Go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yankee#Origins_of_the_word for more information than you need.... Best, Skip Gurnee 64TR4 66TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Spence" To: Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 1:32 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Engine noise B-25: now Yankee > This subject is so off topic I hope you don't mind another tangent... > Can anyone explain the origin of the term "Yankee"? Obviously during > WW2 and since, all Americans have been referred to as Yanks or > Yankees. I do understand that during and before the Civil War this > was not the case. Where did it originate? > Curious Canadian wants to know. > Thanks > > > On 8-Nov-07, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > I live very near the Yankee Air Museum in Ypsilanti, MI., where > > they have 3 > > fully restored and flying WWII aircraft, a B17, a B25, and a C47. > > And like > > Nolan, I too am located under the flight path that these beautiful > > but LOUD > > aircraft use. But what a sight and sound it is when one of those birds > > flies over. In 2005, the museum hosted an air show where eight B17 > > Bombers > > were present, and flew in formation right over my house. That was > > reportedly the largest gathering of B17's since the war. What a > > sight! This > > year's show featured 15 B25 bombers. As they passed over, I was > > afraid my > > house was gonna fall down! And then came the Blue Angels!!! > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From emanteno at comcast.net Thu Nov 8 17:00:26 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 00:00:26 +0000 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 Message-ID: <110920070000.9129.4733A31A000E6A72000023A92207001641970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "FRED E THOMAS" > A few years back some "fly guys" knew about a P58 "Lockheed Lighting" buried > in the "ICE" in Greenland from WWll, took them a couple of years and many > millions to remove it from the 80 ft depth of ice and then a complete nuts > and bolts rebuild, plane is worth untold $$$$ today, the head engineer on > the project is a TR 4 race driver from Georgia, maybe some list members from > down that way know more of whom and when, than I do will fill in the spots > left out "FT" You are talking about Richard Taylor, a true Southern Gentleman. He drives his TR4 to the track, changes tires, races it all weekend, changes tires, and then drives it home. In the stories that I have read about "Glacier Girl", a P-38 that was recovered from the ice of Greenland, Richard is described as an adventurer. I'm lucky to have met him. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL More info at http://p38assn.org/glacier-girl.htm From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Nov 8 17:04:24 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2007 19:04:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] electronic ignition, In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C0799BE76@exchange.terra-incognita.net> References: Message-ID: <47335DB8.24077.B5ACCA@localhost> On 8 Nov 2007 at 11:56, Mark Hooper wrote: > Car powered by Beryllium sphere, Tim? Di-lithium crystals, Mark. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.25/1118 - Release Date: 11/8/2007 9:29 AM From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Nov 8 17:12:48 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2007 19:12:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Gas Prices In-Reply-To: <01e201c82255$a026efd0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <47335FB0.3342.BD5AF0@localhost> On 8 Nov 2007 at 22:20, John Macartney wrote: > so it only leaves **x to be reviewed. I'm in favor of it. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.25/1118 - Release Date: 11/8/2007 9:29 AM From fishplate at charter.net Thu Nov 8 17:30:38 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2007 19:30:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: <110920070000.9129.4733A31A000E6A72000023A92207001641970A9D 010507@comcast.net> References: <110920070000.9129.4733A31A000E6A72000023A92207001641970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20071109003042.BQNO17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 07:00 PM 11/8/2007, you wrote: >You are talking about Richard Taylor, a true Southern Gentleman. He >drives his TR4 to the track, changes tires, races it all weekend, >changes tires, and then drives it home. In the stories that I have >read about "Glacier Girl", a P-38 that was recovered from the ice of >Greenland, Richard is described as an adventurer. I'm lucky to have met him. I accidentally stumbled upon his place at the airport in Middlesboro, Kentucky. Got to meet him, see the plane; and he showed us the video and answered all our questions. Very nice fellow. If he maintains his cars to the standard of that airplane - whoo! -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.26/1119 - Release Date: 11/8/2007 5:55 PM From wbeech at flash.net Thu Nov 8 17:41:46 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 17:41:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: <20071109003042.BQNO17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <20071109004124.31C8F187A18@autox.team.net> We had one land here from the Carrington Foundation a few years back, for $7 you could climb in at crawl through. Gee, those pilots and crew must have been small-framed. When they taxied to take off we were so close to the plane one the taxiway I could have taken one step forward and touched the wing tip. What a take-off rush it was to watch it go. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 5:31 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Engine noise B-25 At 07:00 PM 11/8/2007, you wrote: >You are talking about Richard Taylor, a true Southern Gentleman. He >drives his TR4 to the track, changes tires, races it all weekend, >changes tires, and then drives it home. In the stories that I have read >about "Glacier Girl", a P-38 that was recovered from the ice of >Greenland, Richard is described as an adventurer. I'm lucky to have met him. I accidentally stumbled upon his place at the airport in Middlesboro, Kentucky. Got to meet him, see the plane; and he showed us the video and answered all our questions. Very nice fellow. If he maintains his cars to the standard of that airplane - whoo! -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.26/1119 - Release Date: 11/8/2007 5:55 PM _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.25/1118 - Release Date: 11/8/2007 9:29 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.25/1118 - Release Date: 11/8/2007 9:29 AM From trbobtr at yahoo.com Thu Nov 8 17:42:07 2007 From: trbobtr at yahoo.com (Bob Rolfes) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 16:42:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Installing Aluminum Radiator Message-ID: <559741.34526.qm@web90604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I am about to install my new TRF aluminum radiator in my TR3a. Any advice out there on what to do or watch out for. I am concerned especially about corrosion and dissimilar metal reactions with the new radiator. Your comments are much appreciated! Love the list! Bob Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Nov 8 18:01:03 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 20:01:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] new bonnet gap reduction technique Message-ID: <024801c8226c$01ad3500$b894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Today, I tightened my TR3's apron into place; the much talked about 'side-front of the hood/fender gap' (near the dzeu's) was reduced to almost the size of your little finger on both sides of the bonnet. If necessary, I could live with that, but, I hope it's not necessary. After taking the apron back off, for inspection and some future radaitor work. I made a mental note of how I plan to 'eliminate' most of the gap at the sides of the bonnet. Last night I promoted Andrew's plan of tightening straps between both radiator straps and horn areas as a possible way to reduce this crack. However, I don't see how tightening the straps at these locations would help with the gaps since this procedure would be done with the aluminun tie-piece properly mounted. What I intend on doing eventually is this: Lay a GM bumper-jack sideways in front of the radiator-bottom, and push out the two front fenders. Proably the jack bottom and top will touch those two square-pads, one is on each fender with a hole in it, and double the metal at that point for some unknown reason. Then the aluminum tie bar will then act like a pivot point and cause the side gaps to move closer. (I only plan to reduce each side by 1/4") What do other's think of my plan? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Nov 8 19:10:12 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 21:10:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cylinder head enquiry Message-ID: <009701c82275$abe48f60$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Anyone out there with a 219016 or 219019 TR6 head that they can spare ... if so, please let me know condition, cost and location! Thanks From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Nov 8 19:56:33 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 21:56:33 EST Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25: now Yankee Message-ID: In a message dated 11/8/2007 2:32:26 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: Can anyone explain the origin of the term "Yankee"? It is a shortened version of the old southern US term, Danmyankee. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Nov 8 20:24:36 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 22:24:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Installing Aluminum Radiator In-Reply-To: <559741.34526.qm@web90604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <559741.34526.qm@web90604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000501c82280$1839ab50$210110ac@bobspc> Bob, As I understand it, the TRF aluminum radiator is made by Wizard Cooling which is the same as mine (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm). It was just a "drop in" replacement. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Rolfes Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 7:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Installing Aluminum Radiator I am about to install my new TRF aluminum radiator in my TR3a. Any advice out there on what to do or watch out for. I am concerned especially about corrosion and dissimilar metal reactions with the new radiator. Your comments are much appreciated! Love the list! Bob Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.24/1117 - Release Date: 11/7/2007 10:52 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.24/1117 - Release Date: 11/7/2007 10:52 PM From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Fri Nov 9 05:37:46 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 07:37:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] electronic ignition, References: <47320783.9066.19C08E4@localhost><000701c 82207$f6314a40$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us><112801c82235$3cb2a1d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><0 00a01c8223b$bc51a020$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us> <115001c82242$7c6bbac0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <004f01c822cd$55804990$3029c40a@mde.state.md.us> The bone stock oem GM HEI ignition module is the only thing connected to the hall sensor. None of the components in the CEI box are connected to them. All the components are connected upstream to either the hot lead, the ground lead, or both. I honestly don't remember which. They are simple round capacitors or possibly diodes, and one chunky rectangular resistor as I recall. Each of the vehicle manufacturers using the Lucas CEI ignition would also install various capacitors inline at various locations, seemingly at whim. Like I said, capacitors are normally used to reduce ignition noise in a radio. A non-problem with the HEI modules. Remember, this is a bone stock oem GM HEI module. It is not a redesigned aftermarket piece. While you can certainly install an aftermarket HEI module in there, with all kinds of interesting features, like rev limiting, or power reductions, or advance curve control, they didn't come that way from Lucas. And it was Lucas, not Leyland that made them. They were installed in a number of non-Leyland vehicles. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 3:03 PM Subject: Re: [TR] electronic ignition, >> Not connected to any signals that would do that. > > How can you say that, Nolan ? It has to be connected to the ignition > pickup; what better indication of whether the engine is turning or not ? > > BTW, the redesigned Crane XR700 does the same thing. The older units had > trouble with overheating when the key was left on with the engine not > running, so the newer ones shut down the pass transistor when the engine > hasn't moved for several seconds. From ydna.rolyat at gmail.com Fri Nov 9 06:57:11 2007 From: ydna.rolyat at gmail.com (Andrew Taylor) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 08:57:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking for bra or radiator blind for '62 TR4 Message-ID: <5244b1de0711090557q40ff0b16u41aaa94349740091@mail.gmail.com> Hello All- Am back on this list after being away for a while. My '62 TR4 is back up and running after a year's absence and with cold weather here in Boston, soon as I get her warmed up, a short way down the street, she's cold again. Any ideas where I can get a bra for the front end? I think I've seen one for a TR3 that has a zipper in the middle so you can adjust the amount of air passing through the radiator. That would be perfect. All ideas, thoughts, suggestions would be welcome. Thanks! Andy Taylor '62 TR4 From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Fri Nov 9 07:19:00 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 09:19:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: <4733D2B7.30400@nycap.rr.com> Message-ID: >At the end of September the Callanan Foundation's air group flew in to the >Schenectady NY airport. The group includes a B-25, a B-17 and what is said >to be the world's only flyable B-24 Liberator. Twelve bucks got you thru >the gate to the flight line, where you could walk around, and through, the >planes. They were selling rides on the planes at around $400 for 30 >minutes, but I thought that was a little steep. They did announce that the >B-24 costs $3800/hour to fly. Late in the afternoon they began shooing >people back out the gate, and getting ready to fly those who had signed up >during the day. The B-17 loaded up and taxied out, then a guy walked along >the fence announcing that there was space available on the B-25. Aww >Man...$400....But the old question: If not now, when? So I went for it. The >guy said to hustle because they were ready to board. So I jogged out, no >waiver, no release, no money, no nothing, and a dead bttery in the camera. >Up the bomb bay ladder to a seat right behind the flight deck. We got a >quick briefing on what and what not to do, and they strongly advised using >the hearing protectors, which they emphasized by starting the engines. It >was loud enough taxiing out, but during takeoff the noise was >unbelieveable, at least 140 db. Our seats were exactly in line with the >propellors. We got to crawl thru a tunnel under the flight deck to the >bombardier's station in the nose. Left, front, right and overhead is all >plexiglas, so you can see everywhere. But no pictures. I passed the plastic >after we got back. It tuns out that the fare is deductible, as the >Foundation is a charity. > >Pete Fullam Sounds like you made the right call, Pete! Great story. This ride selling used to be a bone of contention between the FAA and groups that show these old warbirds. Maybe it's resolved, I don't know. These ships were not built to FAA specs because they were built for the military. So they can't operate in any Standard Category. They can, however, operate in Special Categories like Restricted or Exhibition. But these categories have operating limitations. One is that they can't carry passengers for hire. The FAA says to the Foundation, "You're carrying passengers for hire and are in violation." The operators say, "We're are not selling rides, we are giving a free ride to someone who donated $400 to the Foundation." And back and forth. Probably the FAA has decided to let the foundations alone. John From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Nov 9 08:42:04 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 15:42:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: When I was about 8 years old I attended elementary school in Santa Ana, Ca. One day at recess I saw the original Northrop flying wing flying overhead. What a sight that was. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Explore the seven wonders of the world http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=7+wonders+world&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Nov 9 08:43:07 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 08:43:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Looking for bra or radiator blind for '62 TR4 In-Reply-To: <5244b1de0711090557q40ff0b16u41aaa94349740091@mail.gmail.com> References: <5244b1de0711090557q40ff0b16u41aaa94349740091@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <592FC10C9D7642E68C9BB0DA465E4DAF@GeoPC> What temp thermostat are you running (and is it functioning correctly)? My vague recollection of life in the world of winter is that this is not normal behavior. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Taylor" To: Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 6:57 AM Subject: [TR] Looking for bra or radiator blind for '62 TR4 > Hello All- > Am back on this list after being away for a while. My '62 TR4 is back > up and running after a year's absence and with cold weather here in > Boston, soon as I get her warmed up, a short way down the street, > she's cold again. Any ideas where I can get a bra for the front end? I > think I've seen one for a TR3 that has a zipper in the middle so you > can adjust the amount of air passing through the radiator. That would > be perfect. > All ideas, thoughts, suggestions would be welcome. > Thanks! > Andy Taylor > '62 TR4 From smacsjunk at hotmail.com Fri Nov 9 08:47:40 2007 From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 09:47:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] spit suspension question Message-ID: I have a bone stock 68 Mk3 Spit and would like, at some point, to upgrade the suspension. Nothing radical, just enough to rein in the rear wheel jacking and perhaps pick up a bit of grip. It will see predominantly street us with perhaps an occasional forray onto the slalom course (just so the youngsters in theirMR2s and WRXs have something to chuckle at). Here's what I've been thinking of doing: 1)change front anti roll bar to late model 7/8"2)pick up a swing spring for the rear. Now here's the question: is it possible to swap the bottom (fixed)leaf on the swing spring for the shorter bottom leaf taken from the its current spring, allowing me to keep the axles that are on the car, or do I need to look for a set of long axles to go with the swing spring? I'd like to keep it as simple and inexpensive as possible. Have looked at adding a camber compensator, butprefer the reduced rear roll stiffness of the swing spring and its simplicity. Comments please. cheers Scott _________________________________________________________________ Send a smile, make someone laugh, have some fun! Start now! http://www.freemessengeremoticons.ca/?icid=EMENCA122 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Nov 9 08:49:12 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 08:49:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have a distinct memory that when I was about 4 years old I saw Superman fly over. Didn't seem totally remarkable at the time -- just a kid sitting in a sandbox thinking 'Ah, there goes Superman'. In retrospect I suppose it was a delta-wing jet but who knows? Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: "John Herrera" ; ; Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 8:42 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Engine noise B-25 > When I was about 8 years old I attended elementary school in Santa Ana, > Ca. > One day at recess I saw the original Northrop flying wing flying overhead. > What a sight that was. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 9 09:13:07 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 08:13:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] Looking for bra or radiator blind for '62 TR4 In-Reply-To: <5244b1de0711090557q40ff0b16u41aaa94349740091@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20071109161308.SXTW26270.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > All ideas, thoughts, suggestions would be welcome. Replace the thermostat with a modern one that works. ISTR a Robertshaw 330-180 is right. If you want more heat, go for the 330-195 (but you may have to change it again come summer). The 330-180 is suitable for year-round use. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 9 09:42:09 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 09:42:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] spit suspension question References: Message-ID: <004601c822ef$78aa1640$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Having tried both the camber compensator and the swing-spring on my Mk1, I can truthfully say that the swing-spring leaves much to be desired. Apparently Triumph thought so too because after they tried it on early MkIV's, they lengthened the axles to drastically induce a lot of negative camber. I think that in itself did more to controlling the problems with the suspension than the swing-spring itself. One additional thing that I have discovered is that by decreasing the roll stiffness, you get a huge amount of body roll that I find to be counter-productive. The camber compensator controlls the wheel tuck and makes the handling much nicer and most importantly, SAFER. While many people like the swing spring option, it will eventually end up with a sagging rear suspension due to the weaker springs that are used (fewer leaves). To get the full effect of the swing spring will require replacing the axles as well as the spring components and that starts to get into some really big bucks and makes the camber compensator a much more affordable option. Joe Curry ----- Original Message ----- From: "scotts junk" To: ; Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 8:47 AM Subject: [TR] spit suspension question > I have a bone stock 68 Mk3 Spit and would like, at some point, to upgrade the > suspension. Nothing radical, just enough to rein in the rear wheel jacking > and perhaps pick up a bit of grip. It will see predominantly street us with > perhaps an occasional forray onto the slalom course (just so the youngsters in > theirMR2s and WRXs have something to chuckle at). Here's what I've been > thinking of doing: 1)change front anti roll bar to late model 7/8"2)pick up a > swing spring for the rear. > Now here's the question: is it possible to swap the bottom (fixed)leaf on the > swing spring for the shorter bottom leaf taken from the its current spring, > allowing me to keep the axles that are on the car, or do I need to look for a > set of long axles to go with the swing spring? I'd like to keep it as simple > and inexpensive as possible. Have looked at adding a camber compensator, > butprefer the reduced rear roll stiffness of the swing spring and its > simplicity. > Comments please. > > cheers > Scott >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From kthompson at whoi.edu Fri Nov 9 09:37:53 2007 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 11:37:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25: now Yankee!! Message-ID: <47348CE1.9010704@whoi.edu> Hey, you asked: Can anyone explain the origin of the term "Yankee"? This isn't the origin, but.......... You Know You're A Yankee, If...... * You think barbecue is a verb meaning "to cook outside." * You don't have any problems pronouncing "Worcestershire sauce" correctly. * For breakfast, you would prefer potatoes au gratin to grits. * You don't know what a moon pie is. * You've never, ever, eaten Okra. * You eat fried chicken with a knife and fork. * You've never seen a live chicken, and the only cows you've seen are on road trips * You have no idea what a polecat is. * You don't see anything wrong with putting a sweater on a poodle. * You don't have bangs. * You would rather vacation at Martha's Vineyard than Six Flags. * More than two generations of your family have been kicked out of the same prep school in Connecticut. * You would rather have your son become a lawyer than grow up to get his own TV fishing show. * Instead of referring to two or more people as "y'all," you call them "you guys," even if both of them are women. * You don't think Howard Stern has an accent. * You have never planned your summer vacation around a gun-and-knife show. * You think more money should go to important scientific research at your university than to pay the salary of the head football coach. * You don't have at least one can of WD-40 somewhere around the house. * The last time you smiled was when you prevented someone from getting on an on-ramp on the highway. * You don't have any hats in your closet that advertise feed stores. * The farthest south you've ever been is the perfume counter at Neiman Marcus . * You call binoculars opera glasses. * You can't spit out the car window without pulling over to the side of the road and stopping. * You would never wear pink or an applique sweatshirt. * You don't know anyone with two first names (i.e. Joe Bob, Billy Bob , Kay Bob, Bob Bob) * You can do your laundry without quarters. * None of your fur coats are homemade. From bielings at comcast.net Fri Nov 9 09:56:00 2007 From: bielings at comcast.net (PBieling) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 11:56:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Springs Message-ID: <000a01c822f1$6844ef30$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> Horaay! I was able to remove the front pin of the rear springs using the method of drilling the 3/8ths hole thru the rocker panel. Nobody mentioned there are three layers of sheetmetal so you have to be careful with alignment to the pin. I cut remainder of the broken spring away. Then I cut and removed the silent block. After heating the pin with a propane torch I was able to drive the pin out unharmed. I guess I am going to enjoy fall driving afterall. Thank you to all on the list. Pete Bieling TR3a # TS23196 '77 Mercedes 6.9 '93 Buick Roadmaster From JStasyszen at odmhsas.org Fri Nov 9 10:20:40 2007 From: JStasyszen at odmhsas.org (Stasyszen, Jerry) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 11:20:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question In-Reply-To: <004601c822ef$78aa1640$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <004601c822ef$78aa1640$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: Has anyone tried any other springs other than the stock spring that you can get from VB or other dealers? Heavy duty truck spring maybe? Heavy duty trailer spring? Just wonder. Jerry From CarlSereda at aol.com Fri Nov 9 10:18:37 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 12:18:37 EST Subject: [TR] Looking for bra or radiator blind for '62 TR4 Message-ID: In the old days people used a WINTER thermostat in Winter and a SUMMER 'stat in Summer. Or maybe cover lower section of your radiator with a partial cardboard block.. my '63 Volvo 122S has a black window shade you can draw up and down in front of the radiator with an operating chain & catch.. inside the cockpit - and it's stock! I think if you cover about 4" of lower radiator area with plastic/cardboard (clip it to guard, etc) you might get lucky and be able to leave it there all winter.. But my first move would be to try a WINTER 'stat. Carl Hello All- Am back on this list after being away for a while. My '62 TR4 is back up and running after a year's absence and with cold weather here in Boston, soon as I get her warmed up, a short way down the street, she's cold again. Any ideas where I can get a bra for the front end? I think I've seen one for a TR3 that has a zipper in the middle so you can adjust the amount of air passing through the radiator. That would be perfect. All ideas, thoughts, suggestions would be welcome. Thanks! Andy Taylor '62 TR4


**************************************
See what's new at http://www.aol.com From CarlSereda at aol.com Fri Nov 9 10:18:37 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 12:18:37 EST Subject: [TR] Looking for bra or radiator blind for '62 TR4 Message-ID: In the old days people used a WINTER thermostat in Winter and a SUMMER 'stat in Summer. Or maybe cover lower section of your radiator with a partial cardboard block.. my '63 Volvo 122S has a black window shade you can draw up and down in front of the radiator with an operating chain & catch.. inside the cockpit - and it's stock! I think if you cover about 4" of lower radiator area with plastic/cardboard (clip it to guard, etc) you might get lucky and be able to leave it there all winter.. But my first move would be to try a WINTER 'stat. Carl Hello All- Am back on this list after being away for a while. My '62 TR4 is back up and running after a year's absence and with cold weather here in Boston, soon as I get her warmed up, a short way down the street, she's cold again. Any ideas where I can get a bra for the front end? I think I've seen one for a TR3 that has a zipper in the middle so you can adjust the amount of air passing through the radiator. That would be perfect. All ideas, thoughts, suggestions would be welcome. Thanks! Andy Taylor '62 TR4


**************************************
See what's new at http://www.aol.com From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 9 10:39:05 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 10:39:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question References: <004601c822ef$78aa1640$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <006d01c822f7$6cd7af00$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I have used a modified GT6 Spring with another heavy duty leaf added to increase the spring rate. But thatwas on a rotoflex car so it might not be applicable to your question. Are you asking about using it with the swing spring setup or with the original suspension setup? Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stasyszen, Jerry" To: "Joe Curry" ; "scotts junk" ; ; Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 10:20 AM Subject: RE: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question Has anyone tried any other springs other than the stock spring that you can get from VB or other dealers? Heavy duty truck spring maybe? Heavy duty trailer spring? Just wonder. Jerry From JStasyszen at odmhsas.org Fri Nov 9 10:41:59 2007 From: JStasyszen at odmhsas.org (Stasyszen, Jerry) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 11:41:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question In-Reply-To: <006d01c822f7$6cd7af00$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <004601c822ef$78aa1640$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <006d01c822f7$6cd7af00$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: Original setup on a 76 Spit -----Original Message----- From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 11:39 AM To: Stasyszen, Jerry; scotts junk; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question I have used a modified GT6 Spring with another heavy duty leaf added to increase the spring rate. But thatwas on a rotoflex car so it might not be applicable to your question. Are you asking about using it with the swing spring setup or with the original suspension setup? Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stasyszen, Jerry" To: "Joe Curry" ; "scotts junk" ; ; Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 10:20 AM Subject: RE: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question Has anyone tried any other springs other than the stock spring that you can get from VB or other dealers? Heavy duty truck spring maybe? Heavy duty trailer spring? Just wonder. Jerry From JStasyszen at odmhsas.org Fri Nov 9 10:44:58 2007 From: JStasyszen at odmhsas.org (Stasyszen, Jerry) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 11:44:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question In-Reply-To: <200711091731.lA9HVevw027497@respect.services.encs.concordia.ca> References: Your message of "Fri, 09 Nov 2007 11:20:40 CST." <200711091731.lA9HVevw027497@respect.services.encs.concordia.ca> Message-ID: Fiberglass, that's odd, I wouldn't think a fiberglass spring would hold up any length of time, carbon fiber maybe but fiberglass. Amazing what they can come up with. -----Original Message----- From: Dave Chu [mailto:dave at encs.concordia.ca] Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 11:32 AM To: Stasyszen, Jerry Cc: Joe Curry; scotts junk; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; dave at encs.concordia.ca Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question I remember a while back that there was a fiberglass spring that someone has put in. It was a single leaf fibergalss spring for late model corvett. Myabe someone else on the list with better memory can provide more info. In message you write: >Has anyone tried any other springs other than the stock spring that you can >get from VB or other dealers? Heavy duty truck spring maybe? Heavy duty >trailer spring? > >Just wonder. > >Jerry Dave |\ | | | _______________________________________/\ /\ /\_____| \|_____| |____________ Dave Chu \/ \/ | /| | | Dept. of Elec. & Comp. Eng. |/ | | | Concordia University (514)848-2424 Ext.3095 Fax:(514)848-2802 1455 de Maisonneuve W. H941 Email:dave at ece.concordia.ca Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3G 1M8 http://users.encs.concordia.ca/~dave/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 9 11:18:20 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 11:18:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question References: <200711091731.lA9HVevw027497@respect.services.encs.concordia.ca> Message-ID: <000d01c822fc$e89f0de0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I think that was a guy named Loren (don't recall his last name). I don't remember seeing him on this list though, He is a regular contributer to the Totally Triumph Network Spitfire forum. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Chu" To: "Stasyszen, Jerry" Cc: "Joe Curry" ; "scotts junk" ; ; ; Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 10:31 AM Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question > > I remember a while back that there was a fiberglass spring that someone > has put in. It was a single leaf fibergalss spring for late model > corvett. Myabe someone else on the list with better memory can provide > more info. > > In message you > write: > >Has anyone tried any other springs other than the stock spring that you can > >get from VB or other dealers? Heavy duty truck spring maybe? Heavy duty > >trailer spring? > > > >Just wonder. > > > >Jerry > > Dave |\ | | | > _______________________________________/\ /\ /\_____| \|_____| |____________ > Dave Chu \/ \/ | /| | | > Dept. of Elec. & Comp. Eng. |/ | | | > Concordia University (514)848-2424 Ext.3095 Fax:(514)848-2802 > 1455 de Maisonneuve W. H941 Email:dave at ece.concordia.ca > Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3G 1M8 http://users.encs.concordia.ca/~dave/ > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~ From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 9 11:21:27 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 11:21:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question References: <004601c822ef$78aa1640$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <006d01c822f7$6cd7af00$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <001301c822fd$5842c420$2d02a8c0@Belkin> It would be difficult to do any ratically different changes to the swing spring without doing away with the rocker box (which is the key part that makes the thing work.. A much stiffer main leaf would increase roll stiffness and reduce the swing-spring effect. So I don't think that you can do much to that configuration to improve handling without defeating the design functionality of the concept. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stasyszen, Jerry" To: "Joe Curry" ; "scotts junk" ; ; Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 10:41 AM Subject: RE: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question Original setup on a 76 Spit -----Original Message----- From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 11:39 AM To: Stasyszen, Jerry; scotts junk; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question I have used a modified GT6 Spring with another heavy duty leaf added to increase the spring rate. But thatwas on a rotoflex car so it might not be applicable to your question. Are you asking about using it with the swing spring setup or with the original suspension setup? Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stasyszen, Jerry" To: "Joe Curry" ; "scotts junk" ; ; Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 10:20 AM Subject: RE: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question Has anyone tried any other springs other than the stock spring that you can get from VB or other dealers? Heavy duty truck spring maybe? Heavy duty trailer spring? Just wonder. Jerry From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 9 11:22:19 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 11:22:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question References: Your message of "Fri, 09 Nov 2007 11:20:40 CST." <200711091731.lA9HVevw027497@respect.services.encs.concordia.ca> Message-ID: <001901c822fd$7742dcc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I beleave that modern Corvettes use fiberglass (or composite) springs of some sort. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stasyszen, Jerry" To: "Dave Chu" Cc: "Joe Curry" ; "scotts junk" ; ; Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 10:44 AM Subject: RE: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question Fiberglass, that's odd, I wouldn't think a fiberglass spring would hold up any length of time, carbon fiber maybe but fiberglass. Amazing what they can come up with. -----Original Message----- From: Dave Chu [mailto:dave at encs.concordia.ca] Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 11:32 AM To: Stasyszen, Jerry Cc: Joe Curry; scotts junk; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; dave at encs.concordia.ca Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question I remember a while back that there was a fiberglass spring that someone has put in. It was a single leaf fibergalss spring for late model corvett. Myabe someone else on the list with better memory can provide more info. In message you write: >Has anyone tried any other springs other than the stock spring that you can >get from VB or other dealers? Heavy duty truck spring maybe? Heavy duty >trailer spring? > >Just wonder. > >Jerry Dave |\ | | | _______________________________________/\ /\ /\_____| \|_____| |____________ Dave Chu \/ \/ | /| | | Dept. of Elec. & Comp. Eng. |/ | | | Concordia University (514)848-2424 Ext.3095 Fax:(514)848-2802 1455 de Maisonneuve W. H941 Email:dave at ece.concordia.ca Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3G 1M8 http://users.encs.concordia.ca/~dave/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~ From trstreep at sbcglobal.net Fri Nov 9 11:54:05 2007 From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 12:54:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] 2008 Triumph Calendars Message-ID: Greetings Listerati- The Limited Edition 2008 ISOA Club Calendar is once again available!! Packed with photos of your favorite cars, if not your favorite people, the 2008 calendar features an excellent assortment of the Triumph range, including - a TR3, 2 TR4s, 2 TR6s, a TR250, a TR7, 3 Spitfires, a 2000 Roadster, and a Triumph Courier Delivery Van, along with several group shots. This spiral bound 8 1/2 by 11 full colour publication is sprinted on glossy, heavyweight card stock and will make a great addition to any home, office, or better yet, garage! Only $7.00 each, or three for $20, additional quantity discounts are available. Calendars are available by mail. [Add $2.00 to cover postage and handling for mail orders.] For further details, contact Joe Pawlak at 847/683-4184 or email stagfire6573 at foxvalley.net. Any proceeds after covering printing expenses will be donated to the ISOA Tool Fund. From trstreep at sbcglobal.net Fri Nov 9 12:06:43 2007 From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 13:06:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Oops- Message-ID: List- Mea Culpa - I forgot to include Joe Pawlak's mailing address for the '08 ISOA calendars. Mail checks to: ISOA Calendar c/o VI Data Print, LLC 365 S Main - PO Box 37 Burlington, Illinois 60109 From DMatt21502 at aol.com Fri Nov 9 12:57:00 2007 From: DMatt21502 at aol.com (DMatt21502 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 14:57:00 EST Subject: [TR] Looking for a restorable TR3 Message-ID: I have owned MG's and Jags over the years but have always loved the TR3. I would like to find one that needs mechnical work, interior work etc but without rusted out floorpans etc. I live in the Chattanooga TN area if anyone has an interest in selling one please let me know. Thanks Dave ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Nov 9 13:05:35 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 15:05:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar....ARGHHHH Message-ID: <000601c8230b$ee5b1c60$210110ac@bobspc> I can't be the only person with a 7/8" front sway bar so......where did you buy you're end links? My 7/8" sway bar was installed over 10 years ago by a restoration shop after I bought the car. In looking through the Big 3 catalogs, the end links and the mounting bracket to the lower control arm all appear to be for a stock sway bar. However the threaded end of the end link is too short to fit through all the bushings. I posted two pictures here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SwayBar.htm When I look at the 7/8" bars that TRF sells, the end links look entirely different as does the mounting kit. VB sells an ADDCO 7/8" bar but they don't even show end links as part of the kit! The only way I got this to fit was to take some sway bar poly bushings and shave them down a little. And I know this isn't the preferred way of fixing this! Next question: What's the proper order to installing & tightening the sway bar? I have the front end up on two ramps and the rear end on jack stands so the front suspension is "loaded". What order do you make the attachments: end link to mounting bracket, end link to sway bar and sway bar to frame? Or doesn't it matter? Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.26/1119 - Release Date: 11/8/2007 5:55 PM From bielings at comcast.net Fri Nov 9 14:43:18 2007 From: bielings at comcast.net (PBieling) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 16:43:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear springs Message-ID: <002101c82319$8af6e510$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> I am replacing my rear springs. I have solved the problem of the front pin. I need some suggestions on the springs and bushing. It would nice if could improve its handling characteristics Pete Bieling From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Nov 9 15:32:16 2007 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 14:32:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] Rear springs In-Reply-To: <002101c82319$8af6e510$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> References: <002101c82319$8af6e510$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> Message-ID: Joe Alexander is selling bronze/derlin bushing sets for the rear springs ... from what I have heard they make remarkable improvement. NFI, but I have a set waiting to be installed ... >I am replacing my rear springs. I have solved the problem of the front pin. >I need some suggestions on the springs and bushing. It would nice if could >improve its handling characteristics >Pete Bieling -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Fri Nov 9 15:54:30 2007 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Rarebits) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 22:54:30 -0000 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question In-Reply-To: <001301c822fd$5842c420$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <20071109224611.9FEE11879CE@autox.team.net> Going off on a tangent here, has anyone experimented with the heavy duty Herald spring on a swing-spring Spitfire? This is an OE spring rated at 552lb/in, with a much reduced arch. On a Herald this is one of the most satisfactory routes to good handling, without the softness of the swing-spring solution. Never tried one on a Spitfire though, it may just be too firm for the weight of the car. There's an image of the HD spring against a regular Herald spring (270lb/in) here: http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/Herald_parts/Suspension/305686_1.JPG Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 9 16:19:31 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 16:19:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question In-Reply-To: <20071109224611.9FEE11879CE@autox.team.net> References: <001301c822fd$5842c420$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <20071109224611.9FEE11879CE@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000601c82326$fb7000d0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Bill, Even with the Herald spring, you would need the camber compensator to get rid of the dreaded wheel tuck caused by unrestricted swing axles. A good number of the camber compensators I have sold are to Herald and Vitesse Owners who have all informed me of their amazement of how it improves the handling. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rarebits Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 3:55 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question Going off on a tangent here, has anyone experimented with the heavy duty Herald spring on a swing-spring Spitfire? This is an OE spring rated at 552lb/in, with a much reduced arch. On a Herald this is one of the most satisfactory routes to good handling, without the softness of the swing-spring solution. Never tried one on a Spitfire though, it may just be too firm for the weight of the car. There's an image of the HD spring against a regular Herald spring (270lb/in) here: http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/Herald_parts/Suspension/305686_1.JPG Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 9 17:26:16 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 19:26:16 EST Subject: [TR] Rear Springs Message-ID: Congratulations on the ease of removing the pin. You are a fortunate man (person)! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From ZoboHerald at aol.com Fri Nov 9 18:45:44 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 20:45:44 EST Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question Message-ID: In a message dated 11/9/2007 5:45:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk writes: Going off on a tangent here, has anyone experimented with the heavy duty Herald spring on a swing-spring Spitfire? This is an OE spring rated at 552lb/in, with a much reduced arch. On a Herald this is one of the most satisfactory routes to good handling, without the softness of the swing-spring solution. Never tried one on a Spitfire though, it may just be too firm for the weight of the car. There's an image of the HD spring against a regular Herald spring (270lb/in) here: http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/Herald_parts/Suspension/305686_1.JPG ==AM== Bill, is that heavy-duty Herald spring in any way similar to what most of the Works Spitfires used? I seem to recall that the Le Mans cars in particular used extremely stiff, dearched rear springs. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Nov 9 18:48:07 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 20:48:07 EST Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 Message-ID: In a message dated 11/9/2007 7:50:08 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, ahwahnee at cybertrails.com writes: Didn't seem totally remarkable at the time -- just a kid sitting in a sandbox thinking 'Ah, there goes Superman'. In retrospect I suppose it was a delta-wing jet but who knows? I was 12 years old, during the Korean war, and due to bizarre circumstances, my guardian (an Air Force MSgt) and I were accidentally strafed and bombed by a squadron of ROK P-51's. (I lived at Camp Zama Japan. ROK pilots were training at the gunnery range in Mito and the Sgt had taken me there duck hunting on the range!) We took shelter between the rear wheels of the Deuce and a half truck we were in until the attack was over. I watched (between the truck wheels) as the P 51's came at us and I could see the brass coming out of the wing guns as they fired. Neither one of us were injured. None of the bullets or the bombs were even close. The Sgt was pretty rattled, I just thought it was really great fun and loved every second of it! Absolutely no fear! I remember very well the sounds of the engines and how quiet they were as they came in each time. I also sometimes wonder how many Americans have been on the business end of a P51. Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From McGaheyRx at aol.com Fri Nov 9 19:59:34 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 21:59:34 EST Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 Message-ID: In a message dated 11/9/2007 9:19:28 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, jrherrera90 at hotmail.com writes: These ships were not built to FAA specs because they were built for the military. So they can't operate in any Standard Category. They can, however, operate in Special Categories like Restricted or Exhibition. But these categories have operating limitations. One is that they can't carry passengers for hire. The FAA says to the Foundation, "You're carrying passengers for hire and are in violation." They can also operate as "experimental aircraft" - and rides can be sold: _http://www.b17.org/_ (http://www.b17.org/) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From mlang99 at comcast.net Fri Nov 9 21:03:30 2007 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 20:03:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] TRF Windshield Shipping Message-ID: <47352D92.3010302@comcast.net> I ordered a TR3 windshields from TRF the weekend before last. It was one of their weekend sale opportunities that I couldn't pass up. It just came by UPS today. Wow! it was really packed to survive ground shipment. A wooden frame box that was screwed together in a zillion places. Styrofoam lining all the way around. Blocks of foam to support the curve of the wind shield. The pointy lower corners of the glass were even taped to prevent chipping. Needless to say, the glass was all in one piece when I got it. Mike From thomas309 at aol.com Sat Nov 10 01:09:34 2007 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 03:09:34 EST Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question Message-ID: How about this...? _http://flex-a-form.com/_ (http://flex-a-form.com/) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Sat Nov 10 01:46:15 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 08:46:15 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Electric fan connection Message-ID: <789993.78291.qm@web27409.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hi Listers, I have just bought a 2nd hand Kenlowe electric fan on ebay for the TR4A. I want to keep it as hidden as possible so will hide it behind the radiator shroud. Regarding wiring, I am thinking of doing away with the thermostat and just having it as a manual setup. Any ideas re where to connect into the wiring system, and also wiring setup if I do keep the thermostat in the circuit? TIA Chris --------------------------------- For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month. From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Sat Nov 10 02:15:43 2007 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Rarebits) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 09:15:43 -0000 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question In-Reply-To: <000601c82326$fb7000d0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <20071110090720.066A61879E5@autox.team.net> > From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] > > Even with the Herald spring, you would need the camber compensator to get > rid of the dreaded wheel tuck caused by unrestricted swing axles. Hi Joe, That's really not the case with the HD spring. I have driven Courier Vans extensively and found that in standard well maintained trim, they will out handle most equivalents with trick suspension. > A good > number of the camber compensators I have sold are to Herald and Vitesse > Owners who have all informed me of their amazement of how it improves the > handling. Bear in mind that the 552lb/in spring has been unavailable for 30+ years, and even then few Herald owners are aware of it's existence. Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Sat Nov 10 02:20:45 2007 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Rarebits) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 09:20:45 -0000 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071110091220.AF6D31879BF@autox.team.net> > From: ZoboHerald at aol.com [mailto:ZoboHerald at aol.com] > > ==AM== > Bill, is that heavy-duty Herald spring in any way similar to what most of > the Works Spitfires used? I seem to recall that the Le Mans cars in > particular used extremely stiff, dearched rear springs. Hi Andy, With out reference to a spec for the Spitfire race spring, I wouldn't want to presume they are common. Part number for the Courier spring is 305686. I used to know a guy who claimed to have a works race spring on the back of his Spitfire Mk3, and he often compared it to the Courier part. He was however, noted for embellishing the truth, so I am somewhat doubtful that all was what he claimed...... Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From dorpaul at negia.net Sat Nov 10 07:05:48 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 09:05:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fall into the GAP Message-ID: <029f01c823a2$cd2690f0$b894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> How wide should I make the gaps on the sides of the bonnet? (This would be before any beading or beading-cover is put in.) I'm guessing a 1/4" on each side of the bonnet, but then, I've never owned or rebuilt a Tr before. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 Tr3 From spitlist at cox.net Sat Nov 10 08:22:44 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 08:22:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question In-Reply-To: <20071110090642.IRZW1381.fed1rmmtai112.cox.net@fed1rmimpi04.cox.net> References: <000601c82326$fb7000d0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <20071110090642.IRZW1381.fed1rmmtai112.cox.net@fed1rmimpi04.cox.net> Message-ID: <000901c823ad$8b4ca6f0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> You are probably right, based on the fact that I have little or no experience with those particular springs. But as I stated earlier, all the People who I have sold Camber Compensators to have been very enthusiastic about the effect it has on their handling. In one particular case, It is on a Herald Estate wagon and the results in an autocross are very noticeable. Going back to something that Andy Mace said, I too wonder if those were the springs used on the Works Lemans Spitfires. It seems that people racing early Spits are typically using extremely stiff dearched springs with the cars greatly lowered. There is a noticeable negative camber and in those situations, they don't seem to have the wheel Tuck" problem. So it gives credence to your supposition. Cheers, Joe -----Original Message----- From: Rarebits [mailto:bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk] Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 2:16 AM To: 'Joe Curry'; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Spits] [TR] spit suspension question > From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] > > Even with the Herald spring, you would need the camber compensator to get > rid of the dreaded wheel tuck caused by unrestricted swing axles. Hi Joe, That's really not the case with the HD spring. I have driven Courier Vans extensively and found that in standard well maintained trim, they will out handle most equivalents with trick suspension. > A good > number of the camber compensators I have sold are to Herald and Vitesse > Owners who have all informed me of their amazement of how it improves the > handling. Bear in mind that the 552lb/in spring has been unavailable for 30+ years, and even then few Herald owners are aware of it's existence. Cheers, Bill. From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Nov 10 09:01:12 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 11:01:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: >They can also operate as "experimental aircraft" - and rides can be sold: > >_http://www.b17.org/_ (http://www.b17.org/) I have to respectfully disagree with you on this. A Special Airworthiness Certificate issued for operation in the Experimental Categorycomes with Operating Limitations, one of which is: "No person may operate this aircraft for carryng persons or property for compensation or hire." So the EAA is giving a free ride to someone who donates. Sort of like the free tote bag you get when you donate to the local PBS station. John From wbeech at flash.net Sat Nov 10 09:07:00 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 09:07:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071110160640.E2EC3187A05@autox.team.net> BUT, you can make a nice donation and be taken for a 30-45 minute excursion. When the Carrington B-25 was here a few years ago I think the 'suggested donation' was $400. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of McGaheyRx at aol.com Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 8:00 PM To: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com; pfullam at nycap.rr.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Engine noise B-25 In a message dated 11/9/2007 9:19:28 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, jrherrera90 at hotmail.com writes: These ships were not built to FAA specs because they were built for the military. So they can't operate in any Standard Category. They can, however, operate in Special Categories like Restricted or Exhibition. But these categories have operating limitations. One is that they can't carry passengers for hire. The FAA says to the Foundation, "You're carrying passengers for hire and are in violation." They can also operate as "experimental aircraft" - and rides can be sold: _http://www.b17.org/_ (http://www.b17.org/) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.26/1120 - Release Date: 11/9/2007 9:26 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1122 - Release Date: 11/10/2007 10:41 AM From brad.kahler at 141.com Sat Nov 10 09:08:33 2007 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 10:08:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Spits] spit suspension question In-Reply-To: <000901c823ad$8b4ca6f0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <000601c82326$fb7000d0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <20071110090642.IRZW1381.fed1rmmtai112.cox.net@fed1rmimpi04.cox.net> <000901c823ad$8b4ca6f0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <4735D781.4020602@141.com> I had the pleasure of installing Joe's first "production" model of his camber compensator and the difference it made in my mk1 spitfire was tremendous. My mk1 had a factory original rear leaf spring that had no sag to it. On corners I had bad wheel tuck until I installed the compensator. After that the car handled nice and flat in corners. Susan's race car has the later model leaf spring that has a leaf removed and has been de-arched on top of that. Her car handles incredibly well in corners. Even in the rain there is no handling loss. Brad Joe Curry wrote: > You are probably right, based on the fact that I have little or no > experience with those particular springs. But as I stated earlier, all the > People who I have sold Camber Compensators to have been very enthusiastic > about the effect it has on their handling. > > In one particular case, It is on a Herald Estate wagon and the results in an > autocross are very noticeable. > > Going back to something that Andy Mace said, I too wonder if those were the > springs used on the Works Lemans Spitfires. It seems that people racing > early Spits are typically using extremely stiff dearched springs with the > cars greatly lowered. There is a noticeable negative camber and in those > situations, they don't seem to have the wheel Tuck" problem. So it gives > credence to your supposition. > > Cheers, > Joe From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Nov 10 12:25:33 2007 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 11:25:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 heater valve trunnion wire Message-ID: <000a01c823cf$76cf2af0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> To release the heater control wire from Trunnion? Before I break it I am consulting the list. Would it be correct to first loosen locknut CCW then loosen small bolt CCW while holding Trunnion? Looks like without wire Trunnion would pull right out...correct? Hardware looks delicate and I just soaked it with penetrating oil. Advice appreciated. Regards, Bob From jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca Sat Nov 10 09:44:41 2007 From: jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca (Jeff Fenwick) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 11:44:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine noise Lancaster (was B25) References: <501423.77753.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004f01c823b8$fe30ba20$6601a8c0@jeffgjd000xgs4> To mark the sombre occasion of Remembrance Day, the Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum in Hamilton, Ontario will be flying their Lancaster bomber tomorrow (weather permitting). http://www.warplane.com/ Jeff From wbeech at flash.net Sat Nov 10 10:05:16 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 10:05:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fall into the GAP In-Reply-To: <029f01c823a2$cd2690f0$b894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071110170455.49219187A05@autox.team.net> I agree with your guess, the bead protrudes about 1/8" so if you get to 1/4" on each side that will give you a finished clearance of 1/8". Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 7:06 AM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Fall into the GAP How wide should I make the gaps on the sides of the bonnet? (This would be before any beading or beading-cover is put in.) I'm guessing a 1/4" on each side of the bonnet, but then, I've never owned or rebuilt a Tr before. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 Tr3 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1122 - Release Date: 11/10/2007 10:41 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1122 - Release Date: 11/10/2007 10:41 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 10 10:17:27 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 09:17:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] Electric fan connection In-Reply-To: <789993.78291.qm@web27409.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20071110171727.DALZ22686.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Any ideas re where to connect into the > wiring system, Anywhere along the brown/blue wire will do. Easiest would probably be at the A1 terminal on the control box, but if that is too exposed for your tastes, you could tap into it under the dash. Might even be a spare terminal on the ignition switch you could use. Keep in mind that the fan draws a good deal of current, so stout wiring and good, strong connections are essential. Of course that means you will have to remember to turn the fan off when you leave the car, it won't stop when the ignition is turned off. But IMO the ignition switch won't handle the extra current of the fan for very long. If you do want the ignition switch to control the fan, then IMO you should add a relay. Check out the "How it works" box on this page http://tinyurl.com/yqcvor to get an idea of how the relay should be wired. The "12v from battery" would be the NU wire; the "to ignition switch" would be the white wire. You can put a manual switch in place of the "A/C switch" shown, then add the coolant temperature switch (thermostat) later if you wish. Randall From cak at dimebank.com Sat Nov 10 10:22:20 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 09:22:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] Electric fan connection In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4735E8CC.5030205@dimebank.com> Look to the horn relay; there's a good source of fused 12V there. From trhouse at greenapple.com Sat Nov 10 11:55:05 2007 From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 13:55:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRIUMPS on Transporter Message-ID: I told a friend who was driving to calif about the stolen tr5 race car.... he just called and reported a transporter with 3 TR4s and some other race car on I-40 near Albuquerque NM. Doubt that it's the TR5 but curious as to who and what the race car is.. anyone out there know who is on the move From bill_beecher at flash.net Sat Nov 10 14:16:53 2007 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill beecher) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 14:16:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame Message-ID: <20071110211630.2BB781879E2@autox.team.net> Hello List, Pulled the engine and on the top of the front cross member is a plate with a raised "Z" followed by the number "28" stamped in it. Any ideas as to what this indicates? If you have a copy of Roger William's "Enthusiasts Restoration Manual" you can just see the plate between the motor mounts in picture 5-13-3 on page 80, however he does not address it in the text. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1122 - Release Date: 11/10/2007 10:41 AM From cfisher at borgwarner.com Sat Nov 10 14:59:29 2007 From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 16:59:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel gauge brass nuts Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD911605@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> Dear list, Anyone have a broken TR3 fuel gauge you'd sell for $10 bucks or so? I just need the brass nuts (three of them) off the terminal posts. I just repaired my fuel gauge with some patient solder surgery of the tiny magnet wires (boy the old eyes are going!). However, I only have one of the brass nuts from the terminal posts. There should be four total. It doesn't seem to be any common modern thread size. I went through all the small hardware drawers at work and couldn't find a match. I could also use one of the nonconductive washers, but can substitute something else for that. I'd be happy to buy a bad gauge at a reasonable price if it has the needed hardware. Yes, I will watch ebay over the winter if someone doesn't have one. just being impatient, as usual. Thanks, Curt Visit: CurtFisherRacing.com "When you're racing it's life. Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting." Steve McQueen ~ LeMans From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Sat Nov 10 14:57:13 2007 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 16:57:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Right angle speedo drive Message-ID: I have one on eBay, item # 170166621931. (I put a TR4a o/d in my TR3 which doesn't use this piece.) Jim From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Nov 10 16:46:23 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 18:46:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame In-Reply-To: <20071110211630.2BB781879E2@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4735FC7F.4802.AF1E418@localhost> On 10 Nov 2007 at 14:16, bill beecher wrote: > Pulled the engine and on the top of the front cross member is a > plate with a raised "Z" followed by the number "28" stamped in > it. Any ideas as to what this indicates? Uh, that someone did a swap for a Chevy engine? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1122 - Release Date: 11/10/2007 10:41 AM From spitlist at cox.net Sat Nov 10 17:03:27 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 17:03:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil Shortage, smoil shortage, This is a crisis! Message-ID: <000901c823f6$4a0a5fe0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/businesstechnology/2004004989_webbeers hort09.html From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Nov 10 19:23:49 2007 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 19:23:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thanks to Dan Masters Message-ID: <34CA4D45-EE3D-4A87-98AC-A69A02176A44@cox.net> I am in the process of installing a Dan Masters system in my TR3A. I have probably asked him the usual set of questions & he has always responded quickly. I recently asked him how to imbed my Crane Cams electronic ignition into his system. Not only did he answer, he sent me a complete new wiring diagram with the Crane Cams system included. I want to publicly thank Dan for going above & beyond!!! Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Nov 10 20:31:30 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 22:31:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Thanks to Dan Masters In-Reply-To: <34CA4D45-EE3D-4A87-98AC-A69A02176A44@cox.net> References: <34CA4D45-EE3D-4A87-98AC-A69A02176A44@cox.net> Message-ID: <000301c82413$5b7ac450$210110ac@bobspc> John, I had the same experience with Dan while installing his harness and it continues today. This summer he sent me a wiring diagram for my Spal Fan and Wizard radiator. It had nothing to do with his harness but he took the time to help me out. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 60TR3A Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 9:24 PM To: Triumph car discussion Sports Subject: [TR] Thanks to Dan Masters I am in the process of installing a Dan Masters system in my TR3A. I have probably asked him the usual set of questions & he has always responded quickly. I recently asked him how to imbed my Crane Cams electronic ignition into his system. Not only did he answer, he sent me a complete new wiring diagram with the Crane Cams system included. I want to publicly thank Dan for going above & beyond!!! Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.27/1121 - Release Date: 11/9/2007 7:29 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.27/1121 - Release Date: 11/9/2007 7:29 PM From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sat Nov 10 23:26:11 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 01:26:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lightening and Balancing TR6 whirly bits Message-ID: <00ec01c8242b$c0a8a2d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> I'm sure it's a result of the downturn of Michigan's economy, but I'm cannot find anyone who is willing to take on the shot peening, lightening and balancing of my TR6 rods and crank ... I can find a good shop for grinding, and he will not balance anything ... and doesn't know of anyone in MI who shot peens anymore .... I've found a really good place for nitriding but they don't do anything else ... Help! Does anyone have a tame machine shop that still does shot peening and is wiling to grind, cross drill and and balance a Triumph crank? Thanks, ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sun Nov 11 00:38:31 2007 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 01:38:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel gauge brass nuts Message-ID: <380-220071101173831890@earthlink.net> Curt, I'm going on memory here, but I believe those are 8-36 threads. The guy running the tool & die shop where I used to work had the right thread tap and re-did some 6-32 nuts for me. That might be an option for you. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . > Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel gauge brass nuts > > Dear list, > Anyone have a broken TR3 fuel gauge you'd sell for $10 bucks or so? I just > need the brass nuts (three of them) off the terminal posts. I went through all the small hardware drawers at work and couldn't find a match. > Thanks, > Curt From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sun Nov 11 07:06:28 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 09:06:28 EST Subject: [TR] Lightening and Balancing TR6 whirly bits Message-ID: Go here and do a search for cross drilling / cross drill. http://speedtalk.com/forum/search.php?mode=results&sid=4077ea37451d3a18398353c0 3b172b40 You might also find a place to do all the work too. Harold ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Sun Nov 11 08:01:48 2007 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 10:01:48 EST Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup Message-ID: Chris, I bought the electric fan for my TR4A from JC Whitney, the one with the sensor which slides into a radiator hose. Eventually the sensor unit failed and I wired the fan to a separate switch. Since the dash light rheostat was always in the brightest position, I removed it from the dash panel and wired the leads together. Then bought another heater fan switch (with the little fan blade pictured on the knob) and installed it where the rheostat had been. Wired the cooling fan to the new switch. Now the dash uses only correct-looking switches, just two of one kind. In retrospect, I might have installed a relay in the cooling fan circuit because the fan draws just over ten amps, perhaps too much for the switch and wiring. If you retain the automatic-on/off feature, wire it to an always-hot circuit, so it can continue to run after the ignition switch is turned off, if the engine is still warm enough to require that. In my case, I removed the engine-driven fan blade, so the electric unit is all I have. So far, so good, but I later purchased a second fan from JCW as a spare. Good luck! George Haynes ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Nov 11 08:18:32 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 10:18:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] radiator on it's side? Message-ID: <02ec01c82476$20b5def0$b894df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've got a friend with a (like-new) VW radiator. It's dimensions are correct to fit my TR3 IF it's turned on it's side (90 degrees). Could I use it? Paul Dorsey 60 tr3 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Nov 11 08:38:56 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 15:38:56 +0000 Subject: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame In-Reply-To: <20071110211630.2BB781879E2@autox.team.net> References: <20071110211630.2BB781879E2@autox.team.net> Message-ID: This is the Karma plate. In it's next life your car is scheduled to be a Camaro. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com Sun Nov 11 09:08:39 2007 From: Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com (Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 09:08:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lightening and Balancing TR6 whirly bits (Tony Gordon) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF410414CB69@COAST.amr.ch2m.com> FWIW, back when I lived in the frozen north, I had Detroit Balance in Ypsilanti do all of the rotating engine and clutch pieces in my TR4. Huge benefit to cost ratio. Dean Mericas Austin, TX 1965 TR4 1974 2000 GTV -----Original Message----- ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 01:26:11 -0500 From: "Tony Gordon" Subject: [TR] Lightening and Balancing TR6 whirly bits To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "TR list" Message-ID: <00ec01c8242b$c0a8a2d0$660fa8c0 at D1TG6Y71> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I'm sure it's a result of the downturn of Michigan's economy, but I'm cannot find anyone who is willing to take on the shot peening, lightening and balancing of my TR6 rods and crank ... I can find a good shop for grinding, and he will not balance anything ... and doesn't know of anyone in MI who shot peens anymore .... I've found a really good place for nitriding but they don't do anything else ... Help! Does anyone have a tame machine shop that still does shot peening and is wiling to grind, cross drill and and balance a Triumph crank? Thanks, ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From motorcarriage at charter.net Sun Nov 11 09:33:33 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 11:33:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lightening and Balancing TR6 whirly bits (Tony Gordon) References: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF410414CB69@COAST.amr.ch2m.com> Message-ID: <001701c82480$9abb9e60$e8f00a47@D794W231> Hi Tony, There's one of the only places I know in the country producing steel cranks for TR's and other custom applications, and it's right up in your area. It's called Moldex Crankshaft Co. in Dearborn,MI. I don't know about reworking a Crank, but they're obviously capable if not willing. Here's a link to a guy in the UK that sold a used Moldex Steel Crank. Looks great, would love to have one for my TR4 project. http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/classifieds/253634.htm Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas,MA 58 TR3 64 TR4 75 TR6 (Daily Driver) Regards > I'm sure it's a result of the downturn of Michigan's economy, but I'm > cannot > find anyone who is willing to take on the shot peening, lightening and > balancing of my TR6 rods and crank ... I can find a good shop for > grinding, > and he will not balance anything ... and doesn't know of anyone in MI > who shot > peens anymore .... I've found a really good place for nitriding but they > don't > do anything else ... > > Help! Does anyone have a tame machine shop that still does shot peening > and is > wiling to grind, cross drill and and balance a Triumph crank? > > Thanks, > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 From triosan at gmail.com Sun Nov 11 09:49:43 2007 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 08:49:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Fot] TRIUMPS on Transporter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8cbd782d0711110849x4e931970o6a48cb16c71b2cd9@mail.gmail.com> Thanks -- will be interesting to see if anybody else gets a sighting. On Nov 10, 2007 2:40 PM, KEVIN LYNCH wrote: > Greg, Walt, Henry????!!!!! > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Tom Householder > To: fot at autox.team.net ; > triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 11:55 AM > Subject: [Fot] TRIUMPS on Transporter > > > I told a friend who was driving to calif about the stolen tr5 race > car.... > he just called and reported a transporter with 3 TR4s and some other race > car on I-40 near Albuquerque NM. Doubt that it's the TR5 but curious as > to > who and what the race car is.. anyone out there know who is on the move > _______________________________________________ > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Fot mailing list > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot< > http://autox.team.net/mailman/li > stinfo/fot> > _______________________________________________ > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Fot mailing list > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > -- Chuck Arnold From banc8004 at comcast.net Sun Nov 11 09:58:27 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 11:58:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] VW rotated rad Message-ID: From: "Paul Dorsey" Subject: [TR] radiator on it's side? I've got a friend with a (like-new) VW radiator. It's dimensions are correct to fit my TR3 IF it's turned on it's side (90 degrees). Could I use it? =============== Paul: if rotated 90 degrees, where will the filler opening end up? Where will the inlet and outlet hoses have to reach? Can you use standard hoses from a TR, or from any car? Can it be drained? Too many questions, to my mind. I'd stick with a stock radiator, personally. Brian Jones 1963 TR4 Valley Forge PA From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Nov 11 10:13:46 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 12:13:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4736F1FA.7075.EB0CE06@localhost> On 11 Nov 2007 at 10:01, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com wrote the following sentences (not in this order): > Eventually the sensor unit failed... > If you retain the automatic-on/off feature, wire it to an > always-hot circuit, so it can continue to run after the > ignition switch is turned off, if the engine is still > warm enough to require that. This works as long as the sensor doesn't fail such that it keeps the switch closed, in which case it will run down your battery. (You've already proven that an "inexpensive" switch can fail.) But more importantly, the water pump won't be running so you won't get any engine cooling. In other words, there is nothing to gain from wiring it this way, but something to lose. > In my case, I removed the engine-driven fan blade, so the > electric unit is all I have. Just remember to watch the temp gauge and hope the gauge works properly. BL used an electric fan on the last year or so of the Spitfire. It came on through the ignition switch. I don't recall if it was wired to the ignition or to the accessories, or if it perhaps had its own dedicated contact in the switch. On my car a PO had disconnected the radiator sensor and wired a manual switch out of sight under the dash. I reconnected the sensor (it may have been bad and I replaced it - it was so long ago I don't remember), and wired the manual switch in parallel with it. That way it works automatically, plus I have the manual backup. And when running slowly on really warm days I can turn the fan on before it comes on by itself, gaining a few minutes of airflow. A fan should stay on after the engine is stopped only if something under the bonnet requires localized cooling. My Fiat X-1/9 had such an insulated engine compartment that after I parked it on a warm day it could suffer vapor lock for the next 15 minutes. Fiat's solution was a dedicated fan blowing on the carb, with its own thermostat. It was disconcerting to shut off the engine and have a fan come on as I walked away. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1123 - Release Date: 11/10/2007 3:47 PM From CarlSereda at aol.com Sun Nov 11 11:00:36 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 13:00:36 EST Subject: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame Message-ID: Bill, The same plate on the '63 TR4 frame reads 'C'. I just figured I had the 'third version' TR4 frame.. Carl '63 TR4 CT22326L Pulled the engine and on the top of the front cross member is a plate with a raised "Z" followed by the number "28" stamped in it. Any ideas as to what this indicates? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Nov 11 14:26:25 2007 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 13:26:25 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 heater valve trunnion wire, update Message-ID: <000c01c824a9$838fc710$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Success removing the heater valve. Trunnion screw came out with the help of butane torch. From cfisher at borgwarner.com Sun Nov 11 14:30:36 2007 From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 16:30:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel gauge brass nuts References: <380-220071101173831890@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD911608@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> "I'm going on memory here, but I believe those are 8-36 threads. " I can get a pack of 50 brass nuts in 8-36 from McMaster Carr for under $8. Anyone have proof for or against the 8-36 thread for the terminal posts on the back of a TR3 fuel gauge? The thread gauge I tried didn't have a 36 thread per inch thingy. Cheers, Curt Visit: CurtFisherRacing.com "When you're racing it's life. Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting." Steve McQueen ~ LeMans ________________________________ From: Greg Gelhar [mailto:ggelhar at earthlink.net] Sent: Sun 11/11/2007 2:38 AM To: Fisher, Curt (Dixon); triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A fuel gauge brass nuts Curt, I'm going on memory here, but I believe those are 8-36 threads. The guy running the tool & die shop where I used to work had the right thread tap and re-did some 6-32 nuts for me. That might be an option for you. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . > Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel gauge brass nuts > > Dear list, > Anyone have a broken TR3 fuel gauge you'd sell for $10 bucks or so? I just > need the brass nuts (three of them) off the terminal posts. I went through all the small hardware drawers at work and couldn't find a match. > Thanks, > Curt From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sun Nov 11 15:10:42 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 17:10:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lightening and Balancing TR6 whirly bits (Tony Gordon) References: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF410414CB69@COAST.amr.ch2m.com> Message-ID: <006801c824af$b3860280$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Thanks Dean, Found them and they look like they are able to do just what I need. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 11:08 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Lightening and Balancing TR6 whirly bits (Tony Gordon) > FWIW, back when I lived in the frozen north, I had Detroit Balance in > Ypsilanti do all of the rotating engine and clutch pieces in my TR4. > Huge benefit to cost ratio. > > Dean Mericas > Austin, TX > 1965 TR4 > 1974 2000 GTV > > -----Original Message----- > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 01:26:11 -0500 > From: "Tony Gordon" > Subject: [TR] Lightening and Balancing TR6 whirly bits > To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "TR list" > > Message-ID: <00ec01c8242b$c0a8a2d0$660fa8c0 at D1TG6Y71> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I'm sure it's a result of the downturn of Michigan's economy, but I'm > cannot > find anyone who is willing to take on the shot peening, lightening and > balancing of my TR6 rods and crank ... I can find a good shop for > grinding, > and he will not balance anything ... and doesn't know of anyone in MI > who shot > peens anymore .... I've found a really good place for nitriding but they > don't > do anything else ... > > Help! Does anyone have a tame machine shop that still does shot peening > and is > wiling to grind, cross drill and and balance a Triumph crank? > > Thanks, > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************************************** > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sun Nov 11 16:18:52 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 00:18:52 +0100 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup References: <4736F1FA.7075.EB0CE06@localhost> Message-ID: <001901c824b9$39855c10$0500a8c0@Study> Is there a guru with a definitive answer to whether it's better to have an electric fan wired to run whenever the thermal switch says so? ISTR that I've owned a Volvo and a VW, both of which had fans that would run with engine off and ignition key out, so there must be an argument for this.. Inquiring minds.... ect., David Brister TR4A CTC 77785 O -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5835 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 11 18:05:31 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 20:05:31 EST Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup Message-ID: I have owned many cars over the years in which the cooling fan continued to run after the key was shut off. Now, someone who knows a lot more about thermodynamics (?) may be able to tell me if this is correct or not. If my 3A is running (when it was running, anyway) and the temp was in the normal range, when I shut off the car the temp would rise before it would fall. I assumed this was because the coolant stopped circulating and carrying heat away from the block, and I think that is correct. That would seem to me to be a reason for the electric fan to continue to run after the motor is shut off even though it is only cooling the fluid left in the radiator, and any circulation that is created by the temperature gradient. Obviously the water pump is not running. Someone who paid attention in class can jump in here. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 11 18:14:15 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 18:14:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071112011351.258BF1879D3@autox.team.net> David, You are correct in your assumptions. The temp does rise just after you shut the engine off as there is no longer the needed circulation to cool the fluif. By this same reasoning, the electric fan will continue to run until the temp is reduced to the pre-determined level. Many times in the summer I have walked through a parking lot and heard fans running on smaller cars (new ones) that have just been parked and the electric fan is still cooling. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 6:06 PM To: david.brister at wanadoo.fr; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Fan Hookup I have owned many cars over the years in which the cooling fan continued to run after the key was shut off. Now, someone who knows a lot more about thermodynamics (?) may be able to tell me if this is correct or not. If my 3A is running (when it was running, anyway) and the temp was in the normal range, when I shut off the car the temp would rise before it would fall. I assumed this was because the coolant stopped circulating and carrying heat away from the block, and I think that is correct. That would seem to me to be a reason for the electric fan to continue to run after the motor is shut off even though it is only cooling the fluid left in the radiator, and any circulation that is created by the temperature gradient. Obviously the water pump is not running. Someone who paid attention in class can jump in here. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.29/1124 - Release Date: 11/11/2007 10:12 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.29/1124 - Release Date: 11/11/2007 10:12 AM From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Nov 11 18:59:57 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 20:59:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup In-Reply-To: <001901c824b9$39855c10$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <47376D4D.23325.10928A9F@localhost> On 12 Nov 2007 at 0:18, David Brister wrote: > Is there a guru with a definitive answer to whether it's better > to have an electric fan wired to run whenever the thermal switch > says so? (Do you mean manual vs.thermo-switch or do you mean post engine shutoff vs. only when the ignition is on? Should I be offended that you didn't believe my original post? Ah, okay, I won't be.) I can't speak for Volvo or VW though I can make guesses as to why they keep their fans on after engine shutoff. But for a TR the answer is pretty simple. The fan blows air through the radiator. With the engine not running there is no water flow, so cooling the radiator does nothing for the engine. The radiator itself is not affected by heat one way or another, and cooling it down from its normal running temperature (180DegF) faster than it would cool down by itself after you shut off the engine makes no difference at all. Now about the Volvo and VW. As I said before, the only reason you'd want a fan to stay on is if there is something in the engine compartment other than the radiator which benefits from cooling. One possibility is a turbo. Being attached directly to the exhaust it might overheat from direct heat transfer from the hot manifold (or whatever part of the exhaust system it is attached to). This is especially a problem with the bearings as the turbo spins down because oil pressure also goes away when you shut off the engine. Another possible reason for after-shutoff cooling is all the engine monitoring and fuel injection control stuff. Tight, heavily insulated-for-sound engine compartments don't allow much unforced air flow, and engine sensors might pick up heat from the exhaust manifold. That might shorten their life or it might just make the car hard to start or run poorly when restarted. There may be other reasons. But certainly no TR or Spitfire has any of those things unless it is heavily modified. A Spitfire or GT6 has more space under the bonnet then a TR, but none of either is as tight as most modern cars. None has anything that would suffer from heat transfer from the hot manifold. (Do be careful not to re-route your fuel line too close to the manifold.) And after-shutoff electric fans sure weren't stock in any of our cars. Now, automatic vs. manual operation is a different question. An electric fan's value is that it needn't run if you are moving fast enough, which is most of the time. An automatic switch never forgets to turn on when required and off when not. With a manual switch you must watch your temp gauge. The temp gauge probably reads the temp at the head whereas the fan's switch might be on the radiator. But that subtle difference shouldn't matter much. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1123 - Release Date: 11/10/2007 3:47 PM From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 11 19:24:41 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 21:24:41 EST Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup Message-ID: In a message dated 11/11/2007 9:01:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: and cooling it down from its normal running temperature (180DegF) faster than it would cool down by itself after you shut off the engine makes no difference at all. I ain't no scientist, but when a temperature gradient is set up does the coolant not do it's level best to become all the same temperature? In other words, if the coolant in the radiator is cooled to a temperature below that of the coolant in the block does the coolant in the block not migrate toward the cooler coolant in the radiator (or vice versa, I said I ain't no scientist) in an attempt to all become the same temperature, therefore creating a circulation and cooling all the fluif in spite of the fact that the motor is off? I ain't no linguist, either. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Nov 11 19:55:20 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 21:55:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <47377A48.14399.10C53F3D@localhost> On 11 Nov 2007 at 21:24, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > I ain't no scientist, but when a temperature gradient is set > up does the coolant not do it's level best to become all the > same temperature? Well, yes, but it's a question of how fast. And what other things are going on. The only physical connections between coolant in the radiator and the coolant in the block are the narrow diameter radiator hoses. When the engine is running the heat transfer due to water convection is very much greater than the heat flow through the water itself, which is how it keeps the block cool at all. Meanwhile, air convection happens within the engine compartment. This carries heat away from the block so that eventually it will cool down by itself. Depending on various engineering values (i.e. specific features of each car) rather than science per se, either of these phenomena could be faster. Certainly keeping the fan on could help air flow around the block if the air can't convect by itself. But neither of these phenomena is fast compared to the water flow when the engine is running. Yes, keeping the fan on would cool things down a little faster, but only just a little and nothing under a Triumph bonnet would benefit from it. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1123 - Release Date: 11/10/2007 3:47 PM From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Nov 11 20:08:05 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 22:08:05 EST Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup Message-ID: In a message dated 11/11/2007 5:20:13 PM Central Standard Time, david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes: > Is there a guru with a definitive answer to whether it's better to have an > electric fan wired to run whenever the thermal switch says so? > ISTR that I've owned a Volvo and a VW, both of which had fans that would run > > with engine off and ignition key out, so there must be an argument for > this.. > Sure. You can save a $5.00 relay that way. (actually, the cost to the car manufacturer for that relay is under $2.00) Since fans pull a healthy current you don't want it powered off the keyswitch so switching it off with the switch requires a relay. Is there a functional benefit? No. As Jim pointed out the engine is off and the waterpump is stopped so there is no movement of coolant through the radiator. Also, since the engine is off there is no more heat being produced so there is no more need to run the fan. Dave From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Nov 11 20:12:32 2007 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 20:12:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup References: <47377A48.14399.10C53F3D@localhost> Message-ID: <00e201c824d9$de159a40$f950464b@rolofson> After a drive my electric fan will run for awhile when the engine is off until the water at the top of the radiator is cooled to below my thermostat setting (which is somewhere around 200-210 degrees if I remember correctly). The sensor is stuck in the fins at the top of the radiator right below the upper hose. Often times the fan kicks back on for a bit which worried me but I figured that the "cold" air in the radiator sunk which pulled hot water (hot enough to go above my thermostat setting) in from the engine and start the process again. This happens more in the summer than the winter and I've seen it cycle like this twice on some occasions...in the summer. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Muller To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 7:55 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Fan Hookup On 11 Nov 2007 at 21:24, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > I ain't no scientist, but when a temperature gradient is set > up does the coolant not do it's level best to become all the > same temperature? Well, yes, but it's a question of how fast. And what other things are going on. The only physical connections between coolant in the radiator and the coolant in the block are the narrow diameter radiator hoses. When the engine is running the heat transfer due to water convection is very much greater than the heat flow through the water itself, which is how it keeps the block cool at all. Meanwhile, air convection happens within the engine compartment. This carries heat away from the block so that eventually it will cool down by itself. Depending on various engineering values (i.e. specific features of each car) rather than science per se, either of these phenomena could be faster. Certainly keeping the fan on could help air flow around the block if the air can't convect by itself. But neither of these phenomena is fast compared to the water flow when the engine is running. Yes, keeping the fan on would cool things down a little faster, but only just a little and nothing under a Triumph bonnet would benefit from it. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1123 - Release Date: 11/10/2007 3:47 PM _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Nov 11 20:28:00 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 22:28:00 EST Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup Message-ID: In a message dated 11/11/2007 7:05:57 PM Central Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: > I have owned many cars over the years in which the cooling fan continued to > > run after the key was shut off. Now, someone who knows a lot more about > thermodynamics (?) may be able to tell me if this is correct or not. If my > 3A is > running (when it was running, anyway) and the temp was in the normal range, > > when I shut off the car the temp would rise before it would fall. I > assumed > this was because the coolant stopped circulating and carrying heat away > from > the block, and I think that is correct. That would seem to me to be a > reason > for the electric fan to continue to run after the motor is shut off even > though it is only cooling the fluid left in the radiator, and any > circulation > that is created by the temperature gradient. Obviously the water pump is > not > running. > When the engine is running the internal temperatures are not uniform in that the temperature of the core of the cylinder head is higher than the coolant and the metal in direct contact with the coolant. When you shut down the coolant stops moving the heat away and the temperatures equalize. This means the hot center of the head cools down and the metal in contact with the coolant (and the coolant itself) heats up. But running the fan does nothing for this. The effect it has on the head directly, even if the fan is blowing on the head, is insignificant. Dave From CarlSereda at aol.com Sun Nov 11 20:29:59 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 22:29:59 EST Subject: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame Message-ID: That's very interesting Tom.. Hey TR folks - didn't TRIUMPH decide after developing the TR4 to continue making the TR3a (due to popular demand) as a TR3b? And wasn't that TR3b 4" wide r, hence the TR3b frame identifier: 'C minus 1' ? ;-) Carl ------------------------------------------ FYI I have C-1 on a late tr3b tom --------------------------------------------------- > The same plate on the '63 TR4 frame reads 'C'. I just figured I had the > 'third version' TR4 frame.. > Carl > '63 TR4 CT22326L ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Nov 11 20:29:38 2007 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 20:29:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4737C8A2.9090707@dfn.com> Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 11/11/2007 5:20:13 PM Central Standard Time, > david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes: > >> Is there a guru with a definitive answer to whether it's better to have an >> electric fan wired to run whenever the thermal switch says so? >> ISTR that I've owned a Volvo and a VW, both of which had fans that would run >> >> with engine off and ignition key out, so there must be an argument for >> this.. >> >> > Sure. You can save a $5.00 relay that way. (actually, the cost to the car > manufacturer for that relay is under $2.00) Since fans pull a healthy current > you don't want it powered off the keyswitch so switching it off with the > switch requires a relay. > > Is there a functional benefit? No. As Jim pointed out the engine is off and > the waterpump is stopped so there is no movement of coolant through the > radiator. Also, since the engine is off there is no more heat being produced so > there is no more need to run the fan. > > Umm, this is sort of true, and sort of not. The question originally was if the car makers are doing it, what's the reason? I think it's quite simple. Ever since the thermostats on most production engines were raised to 195-degree items (the higher temps were necessary to get higher fuel effiicencies and better cold-weather heater performance), engines are running hotter, and aluminum heads mean that heat is transferred through the thermal mass more quickly. So, when the engine is shut down, the water pump is no longer pressurizing the coolant and accumulated heat in the engine causes nucleate boiling to begin. This raises the gas volume in the cooling system and forces coolant out of the overflow. If this is allowed to go on unimpeded, eventually the overflow bottle fills up and coolant is released to the environment. That's the reason for the fan running after shutdown--to minimize groundwater contamination with ethylene glycol. Running the fan after the engine stops gets heat out of the system in exactly the same way as it does when the engine is running. Even though the water pump is not turning, coolant thermosiphons through the system as long as there's enough energy in the system to cause the coolant to move, or the coolant temp drops to the point where the thermostat closes. Of course, when the coolant volume goes down, vacuum pulls coolant back into the radiator, except for the reserve in the overflow bottle. The reason is mostly time-dependent. Running the fan after shutdown ensures that the now-hotter-running engine cools more quickly than it would statically, thus reducing the chance of coolant overflow. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Nov 11 20:43:54 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 22:43:54 EST Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup Message-ID: In a message dated 11/11/2007 9:31:25 PM Central Standard Time, mdporter at dfn.com writes: > Umm, this is sort of true, and sort of not. The question originally was > if the car makers are doing it, what's the reason? I think it's quite > simple. Ever since the thermostats on most production engines were > raised to 195-degree items (the higher temps were necessary to get > higher fuel effiicencies and better cold-weather heater performance), > engines are running hotter, and aluminum heads mean that heat is > transferred through the thermal mass more quickly. So, when the engine > is shut down, the water pump is no longer pressurizing the coolant and > accumulated heat in the engine causes nucleate boiling to begin. This > raises the gas volume in the cooling system and forces coolant out of > the overflow. If this is allowed to go on unimpeded, eventually the > overflow bottle fills up and coolant is released to the environment. > That's the reason for the fan running after shutdown--to minimize > groundwater contamination with ethylene glycol. > > Running the fan after the engine stops gets heat out of the system in > exactly the same way as it does when the engine is running. Even though > the water pump is not turning, coolant thermosiphons through the system > as long as there's enough energy in the system to cause the coolant to > move, or the coolant temp drops to the point where the thermostat > closes. Of course, when the coolant volume goes down, vacuum pulls > coolant back into the radiator, except for the reserve in the overflow > bottle. > > The reason is mostly time-dependent. Running the fan after shutdown > ensures that the now-hotter-running engine cools more quickly than it > would statically, thus reducing the chance of coolant overflow. > > > Cheers. > This may be a condition common at your altitude but I've never seen it in action down here at sea level. And most all the car's I've experienced with electric fans do swithch off the fans with the key so it doesn't seem to be a concern to some car designers. Besides, I don't see how this applies to an LBC which is running at more conservative temperatures. I have seen stationary diesel's the run on neucleate cooling as a normal mode of operation so utilizing boiling water as a method of cooling an engine is a workable system if the design is right. But not practical in a vehicle. Cheers Dave From lherault at bu.edu Sun Nov 11 21:21:18 2007 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 23:21:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cooling fans running and 6/32 threads Message-ID: <002f01c824e3$7c5e4c70$2f01a8c0@ronlherault> Cooling the radiator of a car after the engine stops might keep the coolant from expanding into the reservoir, I think. I believe I've heard the fan on one of my cars run after the key is turned off. If you have the gauge out, you can count the number of threads in an inch or in part of an inch and then multiply. The 32 part of 6-32 means that there are 32 threads to the inch. Ron L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 11 22:45:04 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 21:45:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071112054504.VVQ29175.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > Hey TR folks - didn't TRIUMPH decide after developing the TR4 > to continue making the TR3a (due to popular demand) as a > TR3b? That part is kinda true. > And wasn't that TR3b 4" wide r, That part is not. The TR3B frame was the same width (interchangeable with) the TR3A frame. The factory did look at putting a TR3 body on a TR4 frame & rear axle. As I recall, 3 prototypes were even built, and known as TR3-betas. But not the same thing as a TR3B. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 11 22:50:51 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 21:50:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071112055051.GIED27057.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Is there a functional benefit? No. I disagree. At least one functional benefit is to reduce underhood temperature after a hot shutdown, thereby reducing the likelihood of percolation in the float bowls. There have even been a few cars with separate fans just to cover that situation (early Dodge Caravans, before they became fuel injected). And, as Jim also pointed out, there is a certain amount of heat carried from the engine to the radiator by conduction and/or convection. It's not much compared to the normal flow of heated water, but some. Of course, you have to balance this with the safety aspect (fan coming on unexpectedly without the key on); plus the battery frequently being stored in a partially discharged state. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 11 23:09:35 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 23:09:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071112060908.C7B571879EB@autox.team.net> Close but not quite, Carl. The TR3 frame was used for production of the TR3b & early TR4 until the TR3b was gone. The 4" differential in width was accommodated by bolting 2" plates to extend the tubular outriggers on the TR3 frame. Post TR3b, the TR4 then went to its own frame that was the proper one for the car. Question: Does anyone know the commission number of this change? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" (Source: "Enthusiast's Restoration Manual" by Roger Williams) -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CarlSereda at aol.com Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 8:30 PM To: trhouse at greenapple.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame That's very interesting Tom.. Hey TR folks - didn't TRIUMPH decide after developing the TR4 to continue making the TR3a (due to popular demand) as a TR3b? And wasn't that TR3b 4" wide r, hence the TR3b frame identifier: 'C minus 1' ? ;-) Carl ------------------------------------------ FYI I have C-1 on a late tr3b tom --------------------------------------------------- > The same plate on the '63 TR4 frame reads 'C'. I just figured I had > the 'third version' TR4 frame.. > Carl > '63 TR4 CT22326L ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.29/1124 - Release Date: 11/11/2007 10:12 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.29/1124 - Release Date: 11/11/2007 10:12 AM From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Mon Nov 12 02:59:29 2007 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 10:59:29 +0100 Subject: [TR] Paging Paul Seedoff In-Reply-To: References: <009701c82275$abe48f60$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <003601c82282$f8e1f570$6400a8c0@aitinc.local> <00ec01c8228b$3cae17e0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <02ad01c82512$b8e34400$2aa9cc00$@com> Paul, would you please contact me off-list, it seems you don't receive my e-mails. Eric From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Nov 12 04:20:03 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 06:20:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame In-Reply-To: <20071112054504.VVQ29175.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <000b01c8251d$f93e0610$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> My TR3b has the Z-28 mark as well. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 12:45 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame > Hey TR folks - didn't TRIUMPH decide after developing the TR4 > to continue making the TR3a (due to popular demand) as a > TR3b? That part is kinda true. > And wasn't that TR3b 4" wide r, That part is not. The TR3B frame was the same width (interchangeable with) the TR3A frame. The factory did look at putting a TR3 body on a TR4 frame & rear axle. As I recall, 3 prototypes were even built, and known as TR3-betas. But not the same thing as a TR3B. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From ggelhar at earthlink.net Mon Nov 12 04:50:37 2007 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 05:50:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel gauge brass nuts Message-ID: <380-2200711112115037468@earthlink.net> Curt, Does your thread gauge have an 18 threads per inch blade? If it does, you can use it to check for 36 TPI. Just look for each tooth of the 18 TPI blade to match every other thread on the screw. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN. > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A fuel gauge brass nuts > > "I'm going on memory here, but I believe those are 8-36 threads. " > > I can get a pack of 50 brass nuts in 8-36 from McMaster Carr for under $8. > Anyone have proof for or against the 8-36 thread for the terminal posts on the > back of a TR3 fuel gauge? The thread gauge I tried didn't have a 36 thread per > inch thingy. > > Cheers, > Curt From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 12 05:13:03 2007 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 04:13:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] cylinder head Message-ID: <821904.17095.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> redid the head and now in the process of putting it back together should i usse a sealent on the head gasket Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Nov 12 07:23:11 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 07:23:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] cylinder head In-Reply-To: <821904.17095.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <821904.17095.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2BC5E41832994A70A212476B045BEDD3@GeoPC> I always spray both sides with a couple of coats of aluminum paint. There is a $pecial copper spray paint for this but I think the aluminum paint does the same thing for a few pennies... plus you likely have a can of the stuff on the shelf. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "john doe" Subject: [TR] cylinder head > redid the head and now in the process of putting it back together should i > usse a sealent on the head gasket From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Nov 12 08:06:12 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 10:06:12 EST Subject: [TR] SILENT BLOCS AND SUNSHINE Message-ID: Good morning! Being retired in Iowa has it's benefits. November brings some sunshine and 60 degree temps. Leaves are falling, but they are a brilliant color and the grass is as green as summer. Bracing dry air replaces the Summer Sweatfest. TS30854L Rides Today....errands are in order. Silent blocs: I've had a couple folks wonder how you remove those pesky Silent blocs. My method is likely not the only way, but in the absense of any sophistcated equipment, my method is: Torch the Rubber until you can remove the pin. Remove the balance of the Rubber. Remove Hacksaw Blade from the handle and thread it through the ID of the Silent bloc hole. Reattach the hacksaw blade to the handle and make two diametric cuts-carefully. Shell comes out easily....remove any sharp burrs, and you are ready for reassembly. If you are replacing the Silent blocs with the new Delrin/Steel Pivots, remember the Pin Head is "up" and the Delrin 'protrusion' is 'down'. use a bit of assembly lube in the process....maybe white lithium. Delrin has self lubricating properties, but a little help seems OK. Joe A From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Nov 12 08:29:18 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 10:29:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 tie-bar rub Message-ID: <000601c82540$ea9d4850$be94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> My TR3's radiator's neck is rubbing the aluminum tie-bar. Is this necessarily bad? Thank, Paul Dorsey TR3 From jgillis at tcd.ie Mon Nov 12 08:30:43 2007 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 15:30:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 start up update Message-ID: <1194881443.473871a3c7af8@mymail.tcd.ie> Hi all, Just to update after receiving advice- ordered and fitted my new control box after cleaning the contacts with some mineral spirit, start engine- charge straight away-13.6volts at the battery, really pleased. Spent some time setting up the carbs, mixture and balance, ran the engine for about 30mins in total, but water pump is still weeping from around the seal, hoping this may bed in and stop. Is it possible to fit a pump without removing the rad and nose? Just thinking of when is it safe to replace the nose.? Thanks all till the next time John 1954 TR2 Anorak Q: Why do I have three marks on my dipstick, two close together near the end of the stick and one much higher up, over half way? From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Nov 12 09:52:52 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 12:52:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 tie-bar rub In-Reply-To: <000601c82540$ea9d4850$be94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <000601c82540$ea9d4850$be94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200711121152.53415.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 12 November 2007 10:29 am, Paul Dorsey wrote: > My TR3's radiator's neck is rubbing the aluminum tie-bar. Is this > necessarily bad? > > Thank, > Paul Dorsey > TR3 Paul, Unless I have something screwed up (which I dont think I do), there should be about a 1 3/8 inch gap between the top of the neck and the bottom of the tie-bar at that point. I just measured it a few seconds ago. Other listers may want to chime in on this since I do have an after market (TRF) front apron. Do you have a stock radiator? Also, since I have the bonnet open, would you like a photo or 2 showing the gap as best I can before I go back and put the 3 to sleep for winter for the last time? Bob From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Nov 12 09:59:08 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 16:59:08 +0000 Subject: [TR] SILENT BLOCS AND SUNSHINE Message-ID: <111220071659.9528.4738865C000DA3F90000253822007354460B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> But be VERY CAREFUL with the hacksaw blade. Really, it's worth the effort to find someone with a press who can do it properly. I just removed the center tie-rod and pressed out the old silentblocs. Some clown had used a hacksaw blade and cut into the rod at its thinnest point. I ended up throwing it away and getting another. Andrew -------------- Original message -------------- From: N197TR4 at cs.com > Good morning! > > Being retired in Iowa has it's benefits. November brings some sunshine and 60 > degree temps. Leaves are falling, but they are a brilliant color and the > grass is as green as summer. Bracing dry air replaces the Summer Sweatfest. > > TS30854L Rides Today....errands are in order. > > Silent blocs: I've had a couple folks wonder how you remove those pesky > Silent blocs. My method is likely not the only way, but in the absense of any > sophistcated equipment, my method is: > > Torch the Rubber until you can remove the pin. > > Remove the balance of the Rubber. > > Remove Hacksaw Blade from the handle and thread it through the ID of the > Silent bloc hole. > > Reattach the hacksaw blade to the handle and make two diametric > cuts-carefully. > > Shell comes out easily....remove any sharp burrs, and you are ready for > reassembly. > > If you are replacing the Silent blocs with the new Delrin/Steel Pivots, > remember the Pin Head is "up" and the Delrin 'protrusion' is 'down'. use a bit > of > assembly lube in the process....maybe white lithium. Delrin has self > lubricating properties, but a little help seems OK. > > Joe A > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Nov 12 10:01:29 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 17:01:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 tie-bar rub Message-ID: <111220071701.9535.473886E9000C94C60000253F22007481840B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> I don't know if it's bad (I would guess it is), but it sure ain't correct. Paul - if cars would talk, your TR3 would have a story to tell. Probably one of greeting the rear-end of another car.....at, as they say, a high rate of speed. Andrew -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Paul Dorsey" > My TR3's radiator's neck is rubbing the aluminum tie-bar. Is this necessarily > bad? > > Thank, > Paul Dorsey > TR3 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From davidt at opentext.com Mon Nov 12 10:42:04 2007 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 12:42:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Local cars for sale - Southern, Ontario Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E07A17A4A@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> Saw these and thought I should pass them along, NFI 1968 TRIUMPH TR250 http://kitchener.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1968-TRIUMPH-TR2 50-sports-car-RARE-collectors-car-W0QQAdIdZ27021524 1974 Triumph TR6 http://kitchener.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1974-Triumph-TR6 -W0QQAdIdZ26515169 1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 http://kitchener.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-75-Triumph-Spitf ire-1500-W0QQAdIdZ26275314 1977 Triumph TR7 http://kitchener.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1977-Triumph-TR7 -W0QQAdIdZ27664690 1976 MGB http://kitchener.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1976-MGB-W0QQAdI dZ21457957 1969 MGC http://kitchener.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-Classic-MGC-W0QQ AdIdZ26986184 David Templeton '59 TR3a '74 Spitsix From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 12 11:13:33 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 10:13:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2 start up update In-Reply-To: <1194881443.473871a3c7af8@mymail.tcd.ie> References: <1194881443.473871a3c7af8@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <130801c82557$bc928300$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Is it possible to fit a > pump without > removing the rad and nose? I've never done it without the radiator and apron in place. Not hard at all; just be sure to put down a towel or something so your belt buckle doesn't chip the paint. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 12 11:15:38 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 10:15:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 tie-bar rub In-Reply-To: <000601c82540$ea9d4850$be94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <000601c82540$ea9d4850$be94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <130901c82558$075945e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > My TR3's radiator's neck is rubbing the aluminum tie-bar. Is > this necessarily bad? Yes. Driving that way will damage the radiator in short order. And you have to remove the front apron again to get the darn thing out. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 12 11:24:32 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 10:24:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] SILENT BLOCS AND SUNSHINE In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <130a01c82559$45ab2420$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Reattach the hacksaw blade to the handle and make two diametric > cuts-carefully. FWIW, I found that making a single cut, only mostly through the old Silentbloc shell (so no damage to the center link) was enough. Then I was able to use a punch and hammer to break the shell at the cut, and tap it out of the center link. Certainly not the only way, nor necessarily the best, just what worked for me with the tools I had available at the time. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 12 11:44:26 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 10:44:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel gauge brass nuts In-Reply-To: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD911608@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> References: <380-220071101173831890@earthlink.net> <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD911608@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> Message-ID: <130c01c8255c$0d3a1b70$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Anyone have proof for or against the 8-36 thread for the > terminal posts on the > back of a TR3 fuel gauge? The thread gauge I tried didn't > have a 36 thread per inch thingy. Not proof ... but I'm pretty sure I determined that the mounting post threads were an oddball metric/Whitworth rather than 8-36. I may be able to check tonight. Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Nov 12 11:44:20 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 18:44:20 -0000 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup References: <4737C8A2.9090707@dfn.com> Message-ID: <003401c8255c$0a1052c0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Over the years my non-Triumphs in the forms of a Simca 1308, Renault Clio, Citroen Xantia (x2) have all had O.E. electric fans (pullers) that would run on after the engine was switched off and the key removed. None of them ran for more than a minute in total and occasionally would operate a second or third time. I don't ever remember a flat battery and the reason they ran is exactly as described by Mike Porter. The UK is hardly a hot climate, yet two of my friends have Triumphs with fans direct wired via a 'hot' switch and these too operate in the summer after engine switch off. What's the problem? Jonmac From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Nov 12 12:22:45 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 14:22:45 EST Subject: [TR] Silent bloc Message-ID: Yes, care must be given to the cut. I have done it with the single cut and punch method, like Randall. The diametric double cut method is quite quick, assuming a steady hand. If in doubt, do it like Randall. But the best is the Andrew Method with a Press, of course. If I get any smarter, I will make a tool with a step to press the shell out. Sometimes you can find a Craftsman socket of the proper diameter and do it in a vice. I should have mentioned that, too. Of course, in 50 years, I have done all of these things the wrong way at least once. I didnt have list to go to.....cool list. Thanks Mark B! Joe A "But be VERY CAREFUL with the hacksaw blade. Really, it's worth the effort to find someone with a press who can do it properly. I just removed the center tie-rod and pressed out the old silentblocs. Some clown had used a hacksaw blade and cut into the rod at its thinnest point. I ended up throwing it away and getting another. Andrew" From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Nov 12 14:19:29 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 16:19:29 EST Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup Message-ID: In a message dated 11/11/2007 8:28:36 PM Mountain Standard Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: But running the fan does nothing for this. The effect it has on the head directly, even if the fan is blowing on the head, is insignificant. I guess it would help on Model Ts as they had no water pump and all the water movement through the radiator was due to the hot water moving to the cold, or whatever that is called...thermosiphoning? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 12 14:35:24 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 13:35:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <132901c82573$ef0ef220$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I guess it would help on Model Ts as they had no water pump > and all the > water movement through the radiator was due to the hot water > moving to the cold, > or whatever that is called...thermosiphoning? What I've heard is that you could buy a water pump for a Model T as an aftermarket accessory, which did improve cooling. However, if the pump belt broke, you were then stranded. Apparently the pump itself interfered with the thermosiphon/convection effect to the extent that the engine would boil over without the pump turning. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Nov 12 15:32:22 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 17:32:22 EST Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup Message-ID: In a message dated 11/12/2007 3:19:55 PM Central Standard Time, BearTranserv at aol.com writes: > I guess it would help on Model Ts as they had no water pump and all the > water movement through the radiator was due to the hot water moving to the > cold, > or whatever that is called...thermosiphoning? > Indeed. But look at the plumbing. The water discharge from the engine comes out of the middle of the head and rises sharply to a very tall radiator. And the return is quite low on the engine. Contrast that with an LBC engine. The inlets and outlets are quite close to each other. On the SC engine (Spitfire, TR6, etc) the two ports are side by side. No thermosyphon there at all. Dave From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Nov 12 16:45:57 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 18:45:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] radiators, what vs. why Message-ID: <47389F65.3097.153E37EC@localhost> This discussion of radiator fans has been interesting. One thing to keep in mind is the difference between what it does and why it does it, or more to the point, why the engineers did it that way. Sure, many cars today spin their fans after being shut off, even cycling on/off a few times as the radiator sensor cools, then warms, then cools. That cycling may be from the water flowing inside the radiator due to temperature differences (i.e. thermal convection). It isn't obvious whether much water is flowing between the radiator and the block. At some temperature the thermostat should shut off the flow between them. Maybe that's when the fan stops for good. A temp gauges should show a rise after the engine is shut off (if the gauge is still powered) because heat still propagates from inside the engine to the fringe of the head where the sensor is attached. The real question isn't what a particular car does but whether it was intentionally engineered to do it for some specific reason. It might be that they implemented some specific heat-management technique for post-shutdown, and that may have included thermal convection between radiator and block. Or it may be that they were concerned about electronics or turbo bearings, or some other thing. Or as Dave Massey pointed out, it might just be that the designers saved a few bucks on a relay and lower-current ignition switch, and judged the result acceptable. Just because the fan stays on post-shutdown doesn't mean it was the engineers' primary intent. It is a safe bet that few of those specific-engineering reasons applied to TR's except possibly keeping fuel lines and carbs cool and saving bucks. If you want to wire your new electric fans that way, go ahead. The pros and cons are obvious. But it isn't required. (I never saw a mechanical fan that would spin for long after the engine was shut off. :-) Louvers are the ultimate answer, you know. They look cool, require minimal tooling, don't run down the battery, don't need no Lucas connectors... Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.30/1125 - Release Date: 11/11/2007 9:50 PM From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Nov 12 17:25:14 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 17:25:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 start up update In-Reply-To: <1194881443.473871a3c7af8@mymail.tcd.ie> References: <1194881443.473871a3c7af8@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: Your pulley will probably pull free easily since presumably it was only recently fitted, but I always carry a little puller for that pulley in case it doesn't want to budge (or suddenly budges and careens into the radiator)... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/waterpump.JPG Then it is easy to remove the pump. One can also remove the pump with the pulley in place but that is (as I recall) involves some wrench work which is a bit tedious. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gillis" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 8:30 AM Subject: [TR] TR2 start up update > ...Is it possible to fit a pump without > removing the rad and nose? From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Nov 12 17:31:40 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 17:31:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 tie-bar rub In-Reply-To: <000601c82540$ea9d4850$be94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <000601c82540$ea9d4850$be94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <38FA10A3429C41089E15F262F1D6E134@GeoPC> I too have a lot of clearance there. For Paul's eyes only -- a pic is attached, I can do others if it will help you figure out why it rubs. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 8:29 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 tie-bar rub > My TR3's radiator's neck is rubbing the aluminum tie-bar. Is this > necessarily > bad? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Rad Neck.JPG] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 12 18:47:07 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 17:47:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2 start up update In-Reply-To: References: <1194881443.473871a3c7af8@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <134a01c82597$19552900$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Then it is easy to remove the pump. One can also remove the > pump with the > pulley in place but that is (as I recall) involves some > wrench work which is > a bit tedious. OTOH, considering how much damage that pulley can do if it decides to come loose (as it will if the hole or shaft are the least bit worn); I've always opted to spend a little extra time with a wrench and remove the water pump with the pulley installed. Of course the fact that replacement water pumps used to come with permanently installed pulleys probably has something to do with it as well. Randall From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Nov 12 19:22:38 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 21:22:38 EST Subject: [TR] Friends of Triumph at THE GLEN next 3 - 7 September 2008 Message-ID: Triumph List, The Friends of Triumph (fot-racing.com) will be featured at Watkins Glen next September in conjunction with SVRA's Zippo Grand Prix. (SVRA.COM) The featured Race of Triumphs will be sponsored by Classic Motors Sports Magazine, and our Grand Marshall will be Kas Kastner. This is a Kastner Cup Event and the CUP will be awarded following this race. There will be a number of very historically significant Triumphs in attendance along with some honored Triumph drivers. Over 40 Triumph Drivers have indicated that they will be making application for entry. (some from the far west and from the U.K.!) The Village of Watkins Glen is also geared up for honoring the Triumph with special activities. It isnt too early to put this on your calendar as a 'must do' weekend. Look for more details forthcoming from SVRA and Classic Motorsports Magazine. Bring it up at your club meetings and plan to join us in the Paddock. Joe Alexander Friends of Triumph From trhouse at greenapple.com Mon Nov 12 01:58:29 2007 From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 03:58:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame Message-ID: on 11/12/07 1:09 AM, wbeech at wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Close but not quite, Carl. The TR3 frame was used for production of the > TR3b & early TR4 until the TR3b was gone. The 4" differential in width was > accommodated by bolting 2" plates to extend the tubular outriggers on the > TR3 frame. Post TR3b, the TR4 then went to its own frame that was the > proper one for the car. > > Question: Does anyone know the commission number of this change? > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" > > (Source: "Enthusiast's Restoration Manual" by Roger Williams) > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > CarlSereda at aol.com > Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 8:30 PM > To: trhouse at greenapple.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame > > That's very interesting Tom.. > Hey TR folks - didn't TRIUMPH decide after developing the TR4 to continue > making the TR3a (due to popular demand) as a TR3b? And wasn't that TR3b 4" > wide r, hence the TR3b frame identifier: 'C minus 1' ? ;-) Carl > ------------------------------------------ > FYI > I have C-1 on a late tr3b > tom > --------------------------------------------------- >> The same plate on the '63 TR4 frame reads 'C'. I just figured I had >> the 'third version' TR4 frame.. >> Carl >> '63 TR4 CT22326L > ************************************** > See what's new at > http://www.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.29/1124 - Release Date: 11/11/2007 > 10:12 AM > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.29/1124 - Release Date: 11/11/2007 > 10:12 AM > > > I've been digging into this recently I have a late TR3b here with a C-1 frame number, I think there was a late change on the frame but haven't id'd it yet, the early TR3b here has a Z number frame tom From trhouse at greenapple.com Mon Nov 12 02:06:09 2007 From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 04:06:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Fot] TRIUMPS on Transporter In-Reply-To: <346C4E05-DE94-4BD8-8074-52242CDCEDE1@earthlink.net> Message-ID: on 11/11/07 9:16 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer at lunkercars at earthlink.net wrote: > On Nov 10, 2007, at 11:55 AM, Tom Householder wrote: at the original post time and date it was east of Albquerque NM headed west on I 40 From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Nov 12 20:04:53 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 22:04:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] sway bar pic request Message-ID: <004201c825a1$f7dc4730$be94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, Could someone please send me a pic of an installed front-end sway bar? (Preferably for a TR3) Thanks Greatly, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Nov 12 20:38:50 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 22:38:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Nethercutt Museum Message-ID: <000001c825a6$b6981c40$210110ac@bobspc> I've read about this place where the collection is housed in 2 museums over multiple floors that look like you're in a palace. Has anyone ever actually been there? http://nethercuttcollection.org/index2.html Just Curious Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.30/1125 - Release Date: 11/11/2007 9:50 PM From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Mon Nov 12 21:09:37 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 23:09:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel gauge brass nuts References: <380-220071101173831890@earthlink.net><1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD911608@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> <130c01c8255c$0d3a1b70$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <005601c825ab$01af4c40$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> I don't know much about the TR3, but a lot of old electrical equipment in the UK used BA (British Association) threads for the small bits and post terminals ... the following website gives some further info http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/bathrd.htm. I think Lucas used 6, 4 and 2 BA threads ... ((larger number = small thread). ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 1:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A fuel gauge brass nuts >> Anyone have proof for or against the 8-36 thread for the >> terminal posts on the >> back of a TR3 fuel gauge? The thread gauge I tried didn't >> have a 36 thread per inch thingy. > > Not proof ... but I'm pretty sure I determined that the mounting post > threads were an oddball metric/Whitworth rather than 8-36. I may be able > to > check tonight. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Nov 12 21:16:13 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 23:16:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: TR2 start up update Message-ID: <002201c825ab$edea4dd0$ea017847@fred8kwiskhcfu> >> Then it is easy to remove the pump. One can also remove the >> pump with the >> pulley in place but that is (as I recall) involves some >> wrench work which is >> a bit tedious. ========================================================================================================= Jay Holkamp of this list designed a pulley remover for T/R 2-4 and it works quite well, makes the on the road replacement of a water pump clean and easy. "FT" From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Mon Nov 12 21:20:30 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 20:20:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Nethercutt Museum In-Reply-To: <000001c825a6$b6981c40$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000501c825ac$86e0a110$171a694c@computer> Hi Bob, I did the one building that is all cars with a great railroad exhibit in the rear. For the other building, you needed to have reservations that I didn't have but talking to some people there a lot of the building I missed is collectible musical instruments. So, the building with lots of autos and RR exhibit that I did see has some very unusual stuff and is well worth doing if ever in the LA area. Jim -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 7:39 PM To: 'Triumph car discussion Sports'; '6 Pack list' Subject: [6pack] Nethercutt Museum I've read about this place where the collection is housed in 2 museums over multiple floors that look like you're in a palace. Has anyone ever actually been there? http://nethercuttcollection.org/index2.html Just Curious Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.30/1125 - Release Date: 11/11/2007 9:50 PM Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies! From nwolf at u.washington.edu Mon Nov 12 22:12:19 2007 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 21:12:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Anybody speak Danish? Message-ID: Once in a while, idle curiosity leads me to google around for my old TR4, CT11880L, which I sold in San Jose in early 2004. I never found anything until today, when the following showed up: http://tinyurl.com/2oxlrf That's the car! Looks the same as ever. I miss it, even though I have another one now in much better shape. My question is: Anybody speak Danish? I'm just curious to know what they said about it, and babelfish.altavista.com doesn't speak the language. I'm guessing "Solgt" means "Sold"... Thanks in advance. -Nick '64-ish TR4 P.S. The really weird thing is that when it was for sale in '04, it almost went to someone in Sweden. Must be a real market for these cars in Scandinavia. At least the blue ones... From mdporter at dfn.com Mon Nov 12 22:43:00 2007 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 22:43:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Anybody speak Danish? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47393964.8080704@dfn.com> nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote: > Once in a while, idle curiosity leads me to google around for my old TR4, CT11880L, which I sold in San Jose in early 2004. I never found anything until today, when the following showed up: > > http://tinyurl.com/2oxlrf > > That's the car! Looks the same as ever. I miss it, even though I have another one now in much better shape. > My question is: Anybody speak Danish? I'm just curious to know what they said about it, and babelfish.altavista.com doesn't speak the language. I'm guessing "Solgt" means "Sold"... > > Danes on the list will do better, but my guess is that "SOLGT" is probably an acronym for "price on application" or "price on inquiry," because the rest of the ad says something like "arrange for appointment" to view the car, and that its condition is all original, never damaged, never abused, and that it's sure to appreciate in value. My guess is that it's not yet been sold, given all that. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From dncullig at us.ibm.com Tue Nov 13 06:38:57 2007 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 08:38:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] FOT at The Glen Sept 2008 Message-ID: Joe A wrote: >The Friends of Triumph (fot-racing.com) will be featured at Watkins Glen next >September in conjunction with SVRA's Zippo Grand Prix. (SVRA.COM) snip >The Village of Watkins Glen is also geared up for honoring the Triumph with >special activities. It isnt too early to put this on your calendar as a 'must >do' weekend. Triumph is also the featured marque for the Grand Prix Festival of Watkins Glen being held on Friday, September 5, 2008. Triumphs are eligible for the Tour de Marque which gives you some great perks including laps around WGI on Friday, lunch at the track and a great parking spot for the festival which includes a race reenactment through the streets of Watkins Glen! There are only 100 spots available and registration has already opened for previous 'Stone Bridge Drivers' so get your registration in ASAP. See www.grandprixfestival.com for more information. Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U TR6IUMPH From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Nov 13 07:05:28 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 14:05:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup In-Reply-To: <003401c8255c$0a1052c0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <4737C8A2.9090707@dfn.com> <003401c8255c$0a1052c0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: I have a problem with my thermostatic fan. Of course it runs after I turn off the car, that part is fine. But after it stops running it still has a small draw on the battery (3.75V). This eventually drains the battery. I installed a battery cut off switch to prevent the drain. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by today. http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt agline From N197TR4 at cs.com Tue Nov 13 07:45:11 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 09:45:11 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] FOT at The Glen Sept 2008 Message-ID: Thanks Dennis! You have more information than I do at this point on the special activities. www.grandprixfestival.com Egads! there's a lot of Triumph and sportscar stuff going on with the Village Fathers at the Glen. I knew about it, but had no idea of the extent of it until I visited the site: www.grandprixfestival.com We need to make note of that on our fot website, too. Thanks for jumping in....this is going to be a very special event...there will be a few surprises, as well. Joe Alexander Friends of Triumph > Triumph is also the featured marque for the Grand > Prix Festival of Watkins Glen being held on Friday, > September 5, 2008. Triumphs are eligible for the Tour > de Marque which gives you some great perks including > laps around WGI on Friday, lunch at the track and a > great parking spot for the festival which includes a > race reenactment through the streets of Watkins Glen! > There are only 100 spots available and registration > has already opened for previous 'Stone Bridge Drivers' > so get your registration in ASAP. > See www.grandprixfestival.com for more information. > > Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U TR6IUMPH > From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 13 08:27:19 2007 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 07:27:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Anybody speak Danish? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <610739.30282.qm@web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Translation using Gramtrans.com Quite fine and well oiled original car to lighter repair. Drive correctly well with healthy oil pressure and without dissonances. Never never damaged, welded, finely original interior. Lighten to appraise! Price: Sold --- nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote: > Once in a while, idle curiosity leads me to > google around for my old TR4, CT11880L, which I sold > in San Jose in early 2004. I never found anything > until today, when the following showed up: > > http://tinyurl.com/2oxlrf > > That's the car! Looks the same as ever. I miss > it, even though I have another one now in much > better shape. > My question is: Anybody speak Danish? I'm just > curious to know what they said about it, and > babelfish.altavista.com doesn't speak the language. > I'm guessing "Solgt" means "Sold"... > > Thanks in advance. > -Nick > '64-ish TR4 > > P.S. The really weird thing is that when it was for > sale in '04, it almost went to someone in Sweden. > Must be a real market for these cars in Scandinavia. > At least the blue ones... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph > Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/ From mmarr at notwires.com Tue Nov 13 08:47:58 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 09:47:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Anybody speak Danish? References: <610739.30282.qm@web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001201c8260c$914e25e0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kurt Johnson" To: Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 9:27 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Anybody speak Danish? > Translation using Gramtrans.com > > Quite fine and well oiled original car to lighter > repair. > After my recent trip home to the UK, including many QC sessions at the "local", I can say that I was a "quite fine and well oiled original" on more than one occasion! Mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 13 08:55:09 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 07:55:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Nethercutt Museum In-Reply-To: <000501c825ac$86e0a110$171a694c@computer> Message-ID: <20071113155509.HZJG14274.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > So, the building with lots of autos and > RR exhibit that I did see has some very unusual stuff and is > well worth doing if ever in the LA area. And the other building is even better ! 2 floors full of interesting and beautiful old cars (the building that Jim toured is basically the overflow), including numerous Pebble Beach Concours winners. When JB Nethercutt died, he left a share of the profits from Merle Norman cosmetics to maintain and increase his collection; one of the things they do is restore rare cars to absolute showroom condition. Few years ago we even got to tour the restoration facility, and one of the things they showed us was the roll of genuine silk corduroy (no, I'm not kidding, corduroy made from silk) that they had commissioned the original maker to make for them, so they could restore some car's interior with it. (Sorry, bad memory, don't recall the car. Wasn't a Triumph ) These cars are all kept gassed up, batteries charged, ready to drive. You can see a few of them at http://nethercuttcollection.org/ncnews.html In addition to the cars, JB collected radiator caps. Hundreds of radiator caps, the kind that were artwork on the outside of expensive cars. The Rolls Royce "Flying Lady" (aka "Spirit of Ecstasy") looks right at home. There are several other collections, but by far the most impressive to me was the collection of self-playing musical instruments. I didn't even know the difference between a player piano and a reproducing piano until I toured this museum. Would you believe a self-playing violin ? Sounded pretty good ! The centerpiece of the "music box" collection is a reproducing pipe organ linked to a reproducing grand piano. They invite world-class artists to come play concerts for them on this equipment; and record every key stroke, every nuance, so they can be played back at a later date. The original performances are open to the public but reservations are required well in advance. And they played a couple of performances back for us; most impressive ! Reservations are definitely recommended, but we were lucky enough to be able to get them for later in the same day we called. Just depends on how busy they happen to be that day. Randall From nwolf at u.washington.edu Tue Nov 13 09:24:07 2007 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 08:24:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Anybody speak Danish? Message-ID: Thanks for the translation! I remember the lack of dissonances... it was a very nice feature. -Nick > Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 07:27:19 -0800 (PST) > From: Kurt Johnson > > Translation using Gramtrans.com > > Quite fine and well oiled original car to lighter > repair. > Drive correctly well with healthy oil pressure and > without dissonances. > Never never damaged, welded, finely original interior. > Lighten to appraise! > Price: > Sold From odd at triumphclub.se Tue Nov 13 09:50:10 2007 From: odd at triumphclub.se (Odd Hedberg) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 17:50:10 +0100 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 348 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <00ee01c82615$41845760$c00aa8c0@DATOR01> Nick, the ad say, or rather - should be read as: Triumph TR4 from 1963 Model: Triumph TR4 Year: 1963 VIN: CT11880L Condition: Very nice and easy to drive original car. Slight rebuild work needed. Engine OK with healthy oil pressure and no noices. Never been in an accident, never been welded upon, nice original interior trim. Easy to have inspected! [MOT'd..?] Price: Sold No demonstration without prior arrangement! Book your appointment here. Mogelmosevej 26 - DK6630 Rodding - Tel. Int+45-20910058 - E-mail: peter at evergreenmotors.dk Rodding is roughle 40km 25miles ESE of Esbjerg in Jutland, Denmark Best regards /Odd -- Odd Hedberg Pomonagatan 4 International liaison secretary, TR8-rep., SE-74236 Osthammar Membership Registrar, MHRF-ansvarig etc Sweden Triumph Club of Sweden '80 TR8 DHC EFi TPZDV8AT211468 Midas Gold E-mail: odd at triumphclub.se Club URL: http://www.triumphclub.se/ Telephone/Mobilephone: Int+ 46-(0)17317131 / 46-(0)706917131 Geographical Position: N 60015'03.215" E 18022'40.770" +14.76m asl ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- -- -----Original Message----- > Message: 5 > Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 21:12:19 -0800 (PST) > From: nwolf at u.washington.edu > Subject: [TR] Anybody speak Danish? > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Once in a while, idle curiosity leads me to google around > for my old TR4, CT11880L, which I sold in San Jose in early > 2004. I never found anything until today, when the following > showed up: > http://tinyurl.com/2oxlrf > That's the car! Looks the same as ever. > I miss it, even though I have another one now in much better > shape. > My question is: Anybody speak Danish? I'm just curious to > know what they said about it, and babelfish.altavista.com > doesn't speak the language. I'm guessing "Solgt" means "Sold"... > > Thanks in advance. > -Nick > '64-ish TR4 > > P.S. > The really weird thing is that when it was for sale in '04, > it almost went to someone in Sweden. Must be a real market > for these cars in Scandinavia. At least the blue ones... From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Tue Nov 13 10:37:38 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 09:37:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup In-Reply-To: <00e201c824d9$de159a40$f950464b@rolofson> Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5B6@mail2.sr.local> I own a 1998 Jag VDP. Big 4 liter V8. The electric fan(s) keep running after shut down for varying periods. The hotter the day the longer the fan(s) stay on. The same is true for an electric fan installed in my TR-6 equipped with a thermocouple in the rad. Most of the modern cars I have driven exhibit the same behavior. Now, whether or not the entire cooling system cools quicker due to the continued fan operation is a moot point. Seems to me that the engineers designing the systems had good reason to keep the fans running post engine shut down. As the coolant looses heat small differential temperature currents keep moving coolant through the system as long as the thermostat remains open. I suspect it's set up this way to prevent coolant from reaching boiling temp in the block after shut down. I also suspect that this is very important, possibly critical in the new aluminum engine blocks such as the Jag's V-8. On the other hand I could be bloody bonkers. Deano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of levilevi Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 7:13 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; jimmuller at rcn.com Subject: Re: [TR] Fan Hookup After a drive my electric fan will run for awhile when the engine is off until the water at the top of the radiator is cooled to below my thermostat setting (which is somewhere around 200-210 degrees if I remember correctly). The sensor is stuck in the fins at the top of the radiator right below the upper hose. Often times the fan kicks back on for a bit which worried me but I figured that the "cold" air in the radiator sunk which pulled hot water (hot enough to go above my thermostat setting) in from the engine and start the process again. This happens more in the summer than the winter and I've seen it cycle like this twice on some occasions...in the summer. Bud Rolofson From dkspence at telus.net Tue Nov 13 11:02:21 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 11:02:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wanted LR fender TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: One on ebay Item number: 150180015427 o?< From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Nov 13 12:08:21 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 14:08:21 EST Subject: [TR] Fan Hookup Message-ID: In a message dated 11/13/2007 8:05:39 AM Central Standard Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: > I have a problem with my thermostatic fan. Of course it runs after I turn > off > the car, that part is fine. But after it stops running it still has a small > draw on the battery (3.75V). This eventually drains the battery. I > installed > a battery cut off switch to prevent the drain. > Do you mean 3.75A or 3.75 V across the fan? Since this is an aftermarket mod there is a long list of what may be happening. Without knowing how your circuit is configured I can't say for sure what is going on. Is you fan controlled by a thermostat alone or is there a relay involved? From where are you pulling power? Is there anything else that is staying on? Lights? Radio? What happens if you unplug a wire from the thermostat? From the fan? From the power source? I need more information. Dave From trlist01 at canleyworks.com Tue Nov 13 12:12:41 2007 From: trlist01 at canleyworks.com (Mark Gendron) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 11:12:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] How not to remove a stubborn lug nut Message-ID: http://www.komotv.com/news/11198151.html From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 13 15:37:05 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 17:37:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] How not to remove a stubborn lug nut In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4739E0C1.17224.1A258842@localhost> On 13 Nov 2007 at 11:12, Mark Gendron wrote: > http://www.komotv.com/news/11198151.html "...with injuries Wilson described as "severe but not life- threatening." Wow. So close to being a Darwin Award finalist but probably not making the cut. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.30/1127 - Release Date: 11/12/2007 9:19 PM From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Tue Nov 13 15:53:00 2007 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 14:53:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR2>4A Water Pump Pulley Puller Message-ID: <190956.96943.qm@web80401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> If anyone is interested, I can provide a photo of the simple but handy puller. My water pump pulley pulley is very much like the one Geo. Hahn made (we discussed this at the time) although I tack welded the nuts to keep from loosing them. My zero oil pressure TR4 was retrieved from Sweetwater TN and is now back in my garage in Wheaton IL. The oil pump (a rebuild kit installed 20,000 +/- miles ago) self destruced to the extent it finally wouldn't turn and both sides of the slot in the shaft sheared off. Next is to inspect the big end & main bearings. brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 >> Then it is easy to remove the pump. One can also remove the >> pump with the >> pulley in place but that is (as I recall) involves some >> wrench work which is >> a bit tedious. ========================================================================================================= Jay Holkamp of this list designed a pulley remover for T/R 2-4 and it works quite well, makes the on the road replacement of a water pump clean and easy. "FT" From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Nov 13 16:06:06 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 23:06:06 -0000 Subject: [TR] Jonmac is Stateside bound! Message-ID: <015901c82649$c609ac90$0201a8c0@Bevan> Well, not just yet - but definitely in 2009. This is now official, though its already appeared in November's Triumph World. It'll also appear in November's The Vintage Triumph. After the better part of a year emailing Glenn Merrell, Blake Discher and Fred Thomas, the Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 really is going to happen and I'm so looking forward to meeting as many of you as I can. I've set aside three months to do the trip as this is the maximum amount of time that Uncle Sam will give me a visa - and I intend to visit Canada as well, so don't you of Her Majesty's 'colonists' north of the border start getting upset about being left out :) So here's the story. If you click on www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk you'll read almost everything there is to say about the event at this stage. We've got a *provisional* Start point in Maine (which may have to be changed and a definite Finish at Triumphest/North American Triumph Challenge on 30th September 2009 at San Luis Obispo, California. Where we go in between those two places is anyone's guess and this is something that has to be worked out pretty fast as there is much else to do. Two 'Works' cars will be taking part. One will be a Stag that Glenn Merrell is currently trying to source in the States and the other will hopefully be my own 2.5PI that will be coming all the way from this mudpatch on the eastern Atlantic - and will then come home at the end, providing it doesn't get totalled! I know its daft bringing my own car - but she means so much. After all, we've been together now for eight long years and 2009 will be her 39th birthday! I just hope the non-compensatable altitude injection system will cope with the Rockies. We'll have a Bosch fuel pump down at the back doing the work - and no, I don't have any AC in the car either. When you go to the website (which is really a 'Blog') click on STAY INFORMED and this will open a mail list you can subscribe to. This means that once your subscription is in and registered, I can keep everyone updated with progress on different fronts by email which saves you going back to check the web. For the record, I'm undertaking this Run entirely to raise funds in equal parts for one American, one British and one Canadian Charity specialising in helping those with post traumatic stress disorder (PTSD). I want to raise at least US$100,000 for each charity and I really hope that as many of you as possible will join in with me to try and make this a reality. Its important to stress that I don't plan or intend to make a dime out of this. All I want is to have fun. Please look at the site because I hope it will answer a lot of FAQ's but if not, please email me direct and off-list. Heaven help you guys and gals. Macartney is finally preparing to hit North America after too many years of declined invitations. Cheers, Jonmac From fishplate at charter.net Tue Nov 13 20:05:31 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 22:05:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Hazard Switch Message-ID: <20071114030524.SMBQ14098.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> I replaced all the little lamps in my 75 TR6, but the one in the hazard switch is missing something... It appears to take a miniature bayonet base lamp, but nothing holds the lamp in - it just slides in and out of the slot. In the absence of any other solution, I'll put a spring in the knob that holds the lamp in place, but I wonder what is supposed ot be in there. Jeff Scarbrough Spitfires and a TR6 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.31/1128 - Release Date: 11/13/2007 11:09 AM From red_tr250 at hotmail.com Tue Nov 13 21:12:38 2007 From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 23:12:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Hazard Switch In-Reply-To: <20071114030524.SMBQ14098.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> References: <20071114030524.SMBQ14098.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: Uh, how's about a spring in the knob...that's what holds it in place. Cheers, Todd Bermudez TR250 TRiumph 2000 TR6 GT6 > Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 22:05:31 -0500 > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > From: fishplate at charter.net > Subject: [TR] TR6 Hazard Switch > > I replaced all the little lamps in my 75 TR6, but the one in the > hazard switch is missing something... It appears to take a miniature > bayonet base lamp, but nothing holds the lamp in - it just slides in > and out of the slot. In the absence of any other solution, I'll put > a spring in the knob that holds the lamp in place, but I wonder what > is supposed ot be in there. > > Jeff Scarbrough > Spitfires and a TR6 > > > -- _________________________________________________________________ Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You! From mlang99 at comcast.net Tue Nov 13 23:18:37 2007 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 22:18:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] How not to remove a stubborn lug nut In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <473A933D.5000003@comcast.net> The shot gun approach to removing lug nuts made me think of this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KLKwcz5u-0 Not specifically related to lug nuts, but it looks almost as crazy! Mike Mark Gendron wrote: > http://www.komotv.com/news/11198151.html > _______________________________________________ From jgillis at tcd.ie Wed Nov 14 05:34:42 2007 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 12:34:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 radiator grille Message-ID: <1195043682.473aeb6229c87@mymail.tcd.ie> Hi all, Have any listers out there purchased the reproduction TR2 grille which I think is manufactured in the UK, and if so were you happy with the quality? Regards John From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Nov 14 14:12:43 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 14:12:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Clutch M/C Message-ID: <8CD5CAA03CF5455B90D78654117D1B60@GeoPC> On a TR3A... is it possible to remove the clutch master cylinder with that box/bracket in place? Looks like maybe if the pushrod is pushed fully home. Also -- any special (i.e. easy) way to get at the lower mounting bolt on the M/C? Thanks! Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 14 14:28:03 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 13:28:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Clutch M/C In-Reply-To: <8CD5CAA03CF5455B90D78654117D1B60@GeoPC> References: <8CD5CAA03CF5455B90D78654117D1B60@GeoPC> Message-ID: <003b01c82705$3d3ac2c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > On a TR3A... is it possible to remove the clutch master > cylinder with that > box/bracket in place? I've definitely done it, but don't recall the details offhand. > Looks like maybe if the pushrod is pushed fully home. Or just take it out first. Slide the boot up the pushrod, then turn the circlip and remove it with pliers or (as I used to do), pry it out with a small screwdriver. > Also -- any special (i.e. easy) way to get at the lower > mounting bolt on the > M/C? I vaguely remember a 1/4" drive socket, U-joint, short extension and ratchet. This time around I wanted to clean up the mess under the box, so I just removed it as an assembly. Randall From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Wed Nov 14 14:30:54 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 16:30:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Clutch M/C In-Reply-To: <8CD5CAA03CF5455B90D78654117D1B60@GeoPC> References: <8CD5CAA03CF5455B90D78654117D1B60@GeoPC> Message-ID: > On a TR3A... is it possible to remove the clutch master cylinder with that> box/bracket in place?> > Looks like maybe if the pushrod is pushed fully home.> > Also -- any special (i.e. easy) way to get at the lower mounting bolt on the> M/C? Thanks!> > Geo There's an access panel inside the cockpit. Remove it and you can get to the master cylinders from the aft side. John From team.net at daveola.com Wed Nov 14 15:23:54 2007 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 14:23:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] How not to remove a stubborn lug nut In-Reply-To: <4739E0C1.17224.1A258842@localhost> References: <4739E0C1.17224.1A258842@localhost> Message-ID: Jim Muller says: > "...with injuries Wilson described as "severe but not life- > threatening." Wow. So close to being a Darwin Award finalist but > probably not making the cut. That depends on what those injuries are: "..injuring himself badly in both legs.." Let's remember that he WAS trying to remove some nuts. *cough* Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Nov 14 15:38:20 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 17:38:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] How not to remove a stubborn lug nut In-Reply-To: References: <4739E0C1.17224.1A258842@localhost> Message-ID: <473B328C.13795.1F4CB307@localhost> On 14 Nov 2007 at 14:23, David Ljung Madison wrote: > > "...with injuries Wilson described as "severe but not life- > > threatening." Wow. So close to being a Darwin Award finalist but > > probably not making the cut. > > That depends on what those injuries are: > > "..injuring himself badly in both legs.." > > Let's remember that he WAS trying to remove some nuts. > > *cough* How clever. A novel way to remove oneself from the gene pool without actually dying. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.31/1129 - Release Date: 11/13/2007 9:22 PM From twakeman at razzolink.com Wed Nov 14 17:58:41 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 16:58:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] test of new emailer In-Reply-To: <473B328C.13795.1F4CB307@localhost> References: <4739E0C1.17224.1A258842@localhost> <473B328C.13795.1F4CB307@localhost> Message-ID: <4FAD0B01-8574-4D59-B1FF-77F91DA7A40E@razzolink.com> PLEASE do not reply From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 14 21:16:55 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 04:16:55 +0000 Subject: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame Message-ID: <111520070416.29349.473BC836000ECBD1000072A522007343649D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "wbeech" > Close but not quite, Carl. The TR3 frame was used for production of the > TR3b & early TR4 until the TR3b was gone. The 4" differential in width was > accommodated by bolting 2" plates to extend the tubular outriggers on the > TR3 frame. Post TR3b, the TR4 then went to its own frame that was the > proper one for the car. > > Question: Does anyone know the commission number of this change? > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L I was wondering the same thing. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From: "wbeech" To: , , Subject: Re: [TR] Z 28 TR3 Frame Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 06:13:46 +0000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from Multipart/mixed by demime 1.01d X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain _______________________________________________ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 14 21:21:57 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 04:21:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] sway bar pic request Message-ID: <111520070421.4085.473BC96500021FFD00000FF522007343649D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Paul Dorsey" > List, > Could someone please send me a pic of an installed front-end sway bar? > (Preferably for a TR3) > > Thanks Greatly, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 TR4, thanks to Brian Sanborn: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/390190855 http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/390190853 -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Thu Nov 15 10:48:34 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 11:48:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] crank Message-ID: <200711151747.lAFHknJs262668@ns3.geneseo.net> I'm going to put a TR3 - 4A crank on eBay but wanted to give the listers first shot at it. It's in unbelievably good condition: STANDARD size - never been ground journals checked - polished - doesn't need to be ground, either magnafluxed - not cracked plugs removed, cleaned, replaced $200 uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From motorcarriage at charter.net Thu Nov 15 11:27:43 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 13:27:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Connecting Rods Message-ID: <00c501c827b5$36916040$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Hi Listers, Below is a set of used Connecting Rods that are supposedly for a TR6 that I bought on eBay. Upon seeing another set of Rods from someone who had documented their Engine rebuild I noticed theirs were different. They had a hole in them centered right above the Big End and a recessed area with a constant radius above the hole running up between the Beam area of the rods. Can anyone help identify these as being from a TR6? I was concerned they might really be for a GT6. In the Manual they show a Rod looking like these but the hole isn't visible in the illustration. In a Rimmer Bros. Illustration though I did see the rod with the hole in it. I have this questioned raised over on the 6-pack website but haven't heard back yet except for the guy who had the pictures of his rebuild. I bought these to have a set to prep and rework in anticipation of putting Rings in my Car next spring when my other Cyl. Head should be ready to go on. Any feedback greatly appreciated! Regards, Wayne Lee Douglas,MA 58 TR4 64 TR4 75 TR6 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of f875_1.jpg] From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Thu Nov 15 11:27:54 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 11:27:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 Message-ID: Driving home last night about 9 PM on the freeway my 74 TR6's ignition light came on. Volts had dropped to a little under 12. I turned off the dash lights, only thing on at the time except headlights, but it didn't make a difference that I could see (hey, it was dark). I slowed down thinking maybe the belt was slipping at 3,500 RPM, no change. I had less than 4 miles to the house so I wasn't too concerned. Once I got onto my block I turned off the headlights and drove a block but the volts stayed under 12. The battery is only a couple of months old. I plan on checking the wiring on the alternator tonight and the belt but if those check out is it most likely the alternator died? If so, do I just go to one of the big three or is there a better vendor? Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Thu Nov 15 11:30:48 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 13:30:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Electronic Rust Protection? In-Reply-To: <200711151747.lAFHknJs262668@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C079E4AC1@exchange.terra-incognita.net> I see that my Canadian Tire store is now promoting this electronic anti-rust thing. http://www.counteractrust.com/ Is this 100% snake oil or does it actually have a chance of working? They claim it is different from older attempts based on boat technology which would have required the car to be soaking wet all the time to work. I'd sort of like my 2006 DTS to avoid turning into my Swiss cheese Buick. I'm also wondering about using something like this on the TR6 which sits in the unheated garage all winter. I'm dubious, but if Canuck tire is pushing it, perhaps there is something behind the idea. Any experience insight out there? Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 From motorcarriage at charter.net Thu Nov 15 11:35:02 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 13:35:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Connecting Rods References: <00c501c827b5$36916040$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Message-ID: <00d601c827b6$3c04ae50$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> I screwed up and tried pasting a small image in my last email. Here is a link to the auction with the Rods in question. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110151072097&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=001 > Hi Listers, > Below is a set of used Connecting Rods that are supposedly for a TR6 > that I bought on eBay. Upon seeing another set of Rods from someone who > had > documented their Engine rebuild I noticed theirs were different. > They had a hole in them centered right above the Big End and a recessed > area > with a constant radius above the hole running up between the Beam area of > the rods. Can anyone help identify these as being from a TR6? I was > concerned they might really be for a GT6. In the Manual they show a Rod > looking like these but the hole isn't visible in the illustration. In a > Rimmer Bros. Illustration though I did see the rod with the hole in it. I > have this questioned raised over on the 6-pack website but haven't heard > back yet except for the guy who had the pictures of his rebuild. > I bought these to have a set to prep and rework in anticipation of putting > Rings in my Car next spring when my other Cyl. Head should be ready to go > on. > Any feedback greatly appreciated! > Regards, > Wayne Lee > Douglas,MA > 58 TR4 > 64 TR4 > 75 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 15 11:52:17 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 10:52:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] Electronic Rust Protection? In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C079E4AC1@exchange.terra-incognita.net> References: <200711151747.lAFHknJs262668@ns3.geneseo.net> <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C079E4AC1@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <00d201c827b8$a506c850$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I'm dubious, but if Canuck tire is pushing it, perhaps there is > something behind the idea. Any experience insight out there? Sure sounds like snake oil to me. If they have patents, as they claim, what are the numbers ? Oddly enough, the links to the "independent testing laboratories" don't work. And I see at least one blatant falsehood, you cannot patent a "device", only the concepts embodied in a device. I've always been under the impression that Canadian Tire was Canada's answer to JC Whitney, one of the most famous purveyors of snake oil in the US. They've carried everything from superchargers made out of an old blanket, to magnets that double your fuel mileage. All of this is supposition of course, I can't *prove* that it doesn't work. But if you're going to try it, maybe you need some of this to go with it ? http://tinyurl.com/a5p2y Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 15 11:58:50 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 10:58:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00d301c827b9$8f6ff010$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I plan on checking the wiring on the > alternator tonight and the belt but if those check out is it > most likely the > alternator died? Almost certainly. > If so, do I just go to one of the big three > or is there a better vendor? If it were my car, I'd punt the Lucas ACR. You can pick up a Bosch from a 78 Ford Fiesta with A/C at your FLAPS for substantially less than the Lucas (mine was under $80 with tax & core charge), and with more current output (especially at idle) and better reliability. Should bolt right on, although on a 74 TR6, you may need to add one wire for the sensing circuit. Just a simple, small wire from the side terminal on the alternator over to the junction in the main battery cable. Randall From andygraybeal at earthlink.net Thu Nov 15 13:00:57 2007 From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 12:00:57 -0800 Subject: [TR] Oldest Triumph club Message-ID: Hi, people Ever since I've been a member of the Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club, the word was that our club was the longest continuously active club in the U.S. having been founded in 1958 in what is now known as Silicon Valley. As you can deduce, we are observing our 50th anniversary and hosting the 2008 Triumphest at Lake Tahoe. Before I go out on a limb with our "pedigree", I want to point out that I didn't say "oldest" because I'm sure earlier clubs were formed. The distinction being that we have been active "continuously" for these 50 years. Can anyone speak with authority on this subject? All the best, Andy Graybeal President elect, Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club triumphtravlelers.org From 6parts at charter.net Thu Nov 15 16:07:24 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 18:07:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hood Buldge References: <610739.30282.qm@web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004e01c827dc$49159a20$03d30c47@alan> I have seen some TR6's with a TR4 power scoop or hood buldge grafted on. I was wondering how this was accomplished. Did they take a TR250 hood and cut off the end and attach the TR6 end. Or did the cut out the power scoop and spot weld it to the TR6 hood and feather it in. I had met the fellow that was doing it at a TRF summer party years ago. But I wasn't paying attention as to how it was done.; just thought it looked pretty neat. Since I could see the indentation of the buldge from the underneath, I don't believe it was spot welded. Any ideas? Al Salvatore polished intakes is the game www.triumphowners.com/624 From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Nov 15 15:41:44 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 22:41:44 -0000 Subject: [TR] Relative values Message-ID: <021901c827d8$b30fde80$0201a8c0@Bevan> List Recognising that most things are only worth what the buyer is prepared to pay, I'd appreciate a little feedback on the likely US value of a 1959 TR3A. Condition is alleged to be 'showroom' (but whose showroom?) and while probably not concours, it looks an interesting car. Any feedback can be in US$. Cheers, Jonmac The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Nov 15 16:51:47 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 18:51:47 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hood Buldge Message-ID: Hi Al, If I were to do it, I would cut out the horizontal shape of power bulge in the TR6 hood. Then cut out the power bulge from the TR4 hood, leaving a small margin around the edge. Then I would fit the power bulge from underneath and secure it with tack welds. Then go from there.......... Joe A > I have seen some TR6's with a TR4 power scoop or hood buldge grafted on. > I was wondering how this was accomplished. > Did they take a TR250 hood and cut off the end and attach the TR6 end. > Or did the cut out the power scoop and spot weld it to the TR6 hood and > feather it in. > I had met the fellow that was doing it at a TRF summer party years ago. But > I wasn't paying attention as to how it was done.; > just thought it looked pretty neat. > Since I could see the indentation of the buldge from the underneath, I don't > believe it was spot welded. > > Any ideas? > > Al Salvatore > polished intakes is the game > www.triumphowners.com/624 > From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 15 16:53:21 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 15:53:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hood Buldge In-Reply-To: <004e01c827dc$49159a20$03d30c47@alan> References: <610739.30282.qm@web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <004e01c827dc$49159a20$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <010501c827e2$b3db6050$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Since I could see the indentation of the buldge from the > underneath, I don't > believe it was spot welded. A very common sort of mod for engine swaps that don't quite fit. Used to be you could even buy the 'bulge' sections molded from fiberglass, maybe you still can ? Anyway, typical installation was to cut a hole in the original hood the size & shape of the bulge, then insert the new section from below and pop-rivet it into place. These days I suppose body adhesive would work better. Randall From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Nov 15 17:02:52 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 19:02:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] How to get my TR3's tie rod bar on Message-ID: <00a401c827e4$0a147a00$be94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am doing the final fitting of my aluminum-tierod bar- that-goes between my TR3's fenders. I had it installed to adjust the bonnet gaps, but, it came off while working on my quasi-radiator. the refitting of the tie-rod bar was difficult the first go-around. On this occasion I have gotten 3 of the 4 bolts (nails are temporaily being used) in. The one nail missing is toward the middle of the car. I am wondering if there are any special places to lift for this to go in. Any other advice is welcome. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Nov 15 17:23:05 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 19:23:05 EST Subject: [TR] Paging Andy Lindberg-Minnesota Triumphs Message-ID: I need to get a hold of Andy....can anyone help with an address? Thanks, Joe A From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Nov 15 17:49:58 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 19:49:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Electronic Rust Protection? In-Reply-To: <00d201c827b8$a506c850$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C079E4AC1@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <473CA2E6.857.24EB9286@localhost> On 15 Nov 2007 at 10:52, Randall wrote: > I've always been under the impression that Canadian Tire was > Canada's answer to JC Whitney I can't speak to the snake oil aspect, but they have a lot of retail stores in the Montreal area. From the one or two occasions I've gone into one while visiting in-laws I'd say they were sort of the automotive equivalent of perhaps Target, maybe Sears. Not quite Starbucks. Tires, accessories, stuff...at least some of it seemingly good. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.32/1131 - Release Date: 11/14/2007 4:54 PM From pethier at comcast.net Thu Nov 15 18:06:23 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 01:06:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] Paging Andy Lindberg-Minnesota Triumphs Message-ID: <111620070106.18088.473CED0F00032CDA000046A822028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: N197TR4 at cs.com > I need to get a hold of Andy....can anyone help with an address? > > Thanks, Joe A No secret unlisted address here. Andy answers to andylindberg at earthlink.net as advertised in his excellent INTERMARQUE MONTHLY. He will be happy to add you to his list and send you a full-color PDF of upper-midwest vintage-car doings each month. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Nov 15 22:12:43 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 00:12:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: Sunshine Report: Stolen Model T and Trailer Recovered Message-ID: <001801c8280f$51eb6160$ea017847@fred8kwiskhcfu> The is a e-mail from my "Model A" club, could this possibly be the same gang that stole the T/R and trailer a short time back "FT" ============================================================================= =============================================== Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 9:43 PM Subject: Sunshine Report: Stolen Model T and Trailer Recovered Fellow Clubbers. Great news from Dick Javins Clem Clement Sunshine Chairman -----Original Message----- From: JavinsMD at aol.com [mailto:JavinsMD at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 9:38 PM Subject: Stolen Model T and Trailer Recovered Please pass this on to your respective clubs. Thanks. Dick +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Fellow Car Enthusiasts, The Model T and trailer that was Stolen from the Kena Shrine Center in Fairfax, VA was recovered this week and returned to their owner. The Model T has only minor damage and the trailer was not damaged. They were located at a storage lot in Bowie, MD. The owner, George Shepard, found his trailer listed on E-Bay. He notified police and they recovered the items. The also recovered the four motorcycles and their trailer that was stolen at the same time. In addition to these items, the thief/theives had numerous other stolen items. This person/persons had just sold three other trailers on E-Bay. Thanks to all of you that were keeping an eye out for the stolen items. Looks as though this will have a happy ending. From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Thu Nov 15 22:23:46 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 00:23:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Electronic Rust Protection? References: <200711151747.lAFHknJs262668@ns3.geneseo.net><641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C079E4AC1@exchange.terra-incognita.net> <00d201c827b8$a506c850$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC18@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Hi Randall: Well, that's about what I figured. No such thing as a free lunch eh? Cheers, Mark ________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net on behalf of Randall Sent: Thu 15/11/2007 1:52 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Electronic Rust Protection? > I'm dubious, but if Canuck tire is pushing it, perhaps there is > something behind the idea. Any experience insight out there? Sure sounds like snake oil to me. If they have patents, as they claim, what are the numbers ? Oddly enough, the links to the "independent testing laboratories" don't work. And I see at least one blatant falsehood, you cannot patent a "device", only the concepts embodied in a device. I've always been under the impression that Canadian Tire was Canada's answer to JC Whitney, one of the most famous purveyors of snake oil in the US. They've carried everything from superchargers made out of an old blanket, to magnets that double your fuel mileage. All of this is supposition of course, I can't *prove* that it doesn't work. But if you're going to try it, maybe you need some of this to go with it ? http://tinyurl.com/a5p2y Randall From auprichard at comcast.net Fri Nov 16 04:54:55 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 06:54:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <021901c827d8$b30fde80$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <000901c82847$8189cd20$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> I have two of these beauties. In both cases I have done a frame-off restoration, increased the engine BHP, added overdrive, and installed custom-made roll-bars and leather bucket seats (plus R&P steering, electric fan etc). I'd like to think these cars are in the $30 - $40K range. I was in a TR restoration shop in the UK last week where there were six TR3 going from between $60 - $80K. Having said that, eBay rarely sees more than $25K for a TR3. My guess? Perfect restoration and upgrades ~ $40K+: Really nice frame-off restoration $20 - 30K: anything less be very careful. Do folks think I am way off ? Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 5:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Relative values List Recognising that most things are only worth what the buyer is prepared to pay, I'd appreciate a little feedback on the likely US value of a 1959 TR3A. Condition is alleged to be 'showroom' (but whose showroom?) and while probably not concours, it looks an interesting car. Any feedback can be in US$. Cheers, Jonmac The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 16 05:04:03 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 07:04:03 EST Subject: [TR] Relative values Message-ID: Check Hemmings.com. I don't think those prices are supported there, from what I recall, and Hemmings tends to be on the pricier side. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Nov 16 08:10:40 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:10:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] How to get my TR3's tie rod bar on In-Reply-To: <00a401c827e4$0a147a00$be94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00a401c827e4$0a147a00$be94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: When the front apron has to come off of my TR3A I always leave the aluminum tie bar bolted into it. I only take out the four bolts that hold the bar to the fender wells. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 16 08:57:48 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 07:57:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <000901c82847$8189cd20$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <20071116155748.XUAE5651.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > I have two of these beauties. In both cases I have done a > frame-off restoration, increased the engine BHP, added > overdrive, and installed custom-made roll-bars and leather > bucket seats (plus R&P steering, electric fan etc). The problem as I see it is that that does NOT describe a "restored" car. That's more like a kit car using some components from an old car. And kit car prices are notoriously variable. If you find someone that doesn't like doing the work themselves and want a car modified exactly the way you've modified it, then maybe you could get a premium price. But generally any serious collector is going to look at all the things that are "wrong" and see it only as a project, no matter how shiny the paint is. > I was in a > TR restoration shop in the UK last week where there were six > TR3 going from between $60 - $80K. And we've commented before that prices in the UK are absurd, compared to those in the US. There are even people who make money buying cars here and shipping them to Europe. Lots of reasons for that, but I daresay the MOT is one of the largest. Back when TR3s weren't particularly valuable (I paid $100 for my first one), they weren't worth the cost (or effort) of making them pass MOT, so most of them were scrapped. Here in the US without the MOT tests (for the most part) the cars got driven long past the point they would have failed MOT, and then stored in someone's barn until they became valuable enough to repair again. (My current TR3 project was stored in a garage from 1975 to 2005, and still sold for under $3000) > My guess? Perfect restoration and upgrades ~ $40K+: Really > nice frame-off restoration $20 - 30K: anything less be very careful. > > Do folks think I am way off ? IMO, a 100 point, concours winning restoration might bring $30K today, but to get much more than that it would have to be a "special interest" car. Modifications are, at best, "value neutral", unless perhaps you manage to find a buyer that wants exactly those changes, or the car is modified for a particular vintage racing class, etc. Randall From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Nov 16 10:34:30 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 12:34:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <20071116155748.XUAE5651.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <8C9F68E140DB9D1-6B4-B3D5@webmail-da13.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Randall ...If you find someone that doesn't like doing the work themselves and want a car modified exactly the way you've modified it, then maybe you could get a premium price. But generally any serious collector is going to look at all the things that are "wrong" and see it only as a project, no matter how shiny the paint is. ==AM== I agree, although it would appear that such modifications don't bother the so-called "serious collectors" as much as they might have in the past? ==AM== And we've commented before that prices in the UK are absurd, compared to those in the US. There are even people who make money buying cars here and shipping them to Europe. Lots of reasons for that, but I daresay the MOT is one of the largest.... ==AM== Possibly a bigger reason is simple supply v. demand. Remember that the "export" markets, especially North America, got maybe 65-75% of total production. ==AM== IMO, a 100 point, concours winning restoration might bring $30K today, but to get much more than that it would have to be a "special interest" car. Modifications are, at best, "value neutral", unless perhaps you manage to find a buyer that wants exactly those changes, or the car is modified for a particular vintage racing class, etc. ==AM== Agree again, but with the same caveat as above. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Nov 16 11:04:32 2007 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 10:04:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] washer type to use for banjo bolts - fiber or copper Message-ID: Guys, It seems that fiber washers are used for banjo bolts such as the ones on the fuel pump in my Stag. Can I use copper washers instead? I actually need to get washers for the bango bolt on the BW35 transmission filler pipe. Can I use copper or aluminum ones? Are these standard sizes? Sujit From supertr6 at earthlink.net Fri Nov 16 12:01:21 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 14:01:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <000901c82847$8189cd20$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> References: <000901c82847$8189cd20$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <473DE901.9050800@earthlink.net> I think the upgrades detract from the overall value. For big money, you want original or as close as you can get. Just my 2 cents. Joe Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I have two of these beauties. In both cases I have done a frame-off > restoration, increased the engine BHP, added overdrive, and installed > custom-made roll-bars and leather bucket seats (plus R&P steering, electric > fan etc). I'd like to think these cars are in the $30 - $40K range. I was > in a TR restoration shop in the UK last week where there were six TR3 going > from between $60 - $80K. > > Having said that, eBay rarely sees more than $25K for a TR3. > > My guess? Perfect restoration and upgrades ~ $40K+: Really nice frame-off > restoration $20 - 30K: anything less be very careful. > > Do folks think I am way off ? > > Andrew > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > John Macartney > Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 5:42 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Relative values > > List > > Recognising that most things are only worth what the buyer is prepared to > pay, I'd appreciate a > little feedback on the likely US value of a 1959 TR3A. Condition is alleged > to be 'showroom' (but > whose showroom?) and while probably not concours, it looks an interesting > car. Any feedback can be > in US$. > > Cheers, Jonmac > > The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 > www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From auprichard at comcast.net Fri Nov 16 12:58:57 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 19:58:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] Relative values Message-ID: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> That's fine if you want an unreliable, uncomfortable, poorly-handling and potentially unsafe car with 90-odd horse-power. -------------- Original message -------------- From: Joe Burlein > I think the upgrades detract from the overall value. For big money, you > want original or as close as you can get. Just my 2 cents. > > > Joe > > > Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > I have two of these beauties. In both cases I have done a frame-off > > restoration, increased the engine BHP, added overdrive, and installed > > custom-made roll-bars and leather bucket seats (plus R&P steering, electric > > fan etc). I'd like to think these cars are in the $30 - $40K range. I was > > in a TR restoration shop in the UK last week where there were six TR3 going > > from between $60 - $80K. > > > > Having said that, eBay rarely sees more than $25K for a TR3. > > > > My guess? Perfect restoration and upgrades ~ $40K+: Really nice frame-off > > restoration $20 - 30K: anything less be very careful. > > > > Do folks think I am way off ? > > > > Andrew > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net > > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > > John Macartney > > Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 5:42 PM > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: [TR] Relative values > > > > List > > > > Recognising that most things are only worth what the buyer is prepared to > > pay, I'd appreciate a > > little feedback on the likely US value of a 1959 TR3A. Condition is alleged > > to be 'showroom' (but > > whose showroom?) and while probably not concours, it looks an interesting > > car. Any feedback can be > > in US$. > > > > Cheers, Jonmac > > > > The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 > > www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Fri Nov 16 13:17:09 2007 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:17:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] 3a fuel line routing Message-ID: I have misplaced, or accidentally discarded, the fuel lines I removed years ago when I began the resto. of my 3a. I do still have the one from the fuel pump to the carbs, and the piece that connects to the bottom of the fuel tank (which I think was cut short by a PO. I cannot really tell the routing from looking in a vendor catalog. Not too worried about the main length of it front <-> back, but can someone direct me to a picture of how it goes on the input side of the fuel pump? And where does the flexible section come into play? I know that this car was new enough not to have the shutoff near the pump. (In fact I do have a piece that might be it; it's about 5" long and is a curve sweeping through about 90 degrees, but it doesn't want to thread into the pump. And, it has some blue paint on one end that makes me think it could have come from a tractor I used to own.) Also - if it comes to this - what is the thread size? Something hard to find if I am making up new lines? Thanks, Jim TS81417l From eoot at citlink.net Fri Nov 16 13:19:35 2007 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:19:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001101c8288e$02398410$640a0a0a@MyComputski> Now thems fightin words! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Joe Burlein" Cc: Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 2:58 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Relative values > That's fine if you want an unreliable, uncomfortable, poorly-handling and > potentially unsafe car with 90-odd horse-power. > > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: Joe Burlein > >> I think the upgrades detract from the overall value. For big money, you >> want original or as close as you can get. Just my 2 cents. >> >> >> Joe >> >> >> Andrew Uprichard wrote: >> > I have two of these beauties. In both cases I have done a frame-off >> > restoration, increased the engine BHP, added overdrive, and installed >> > custom-made roll-bars and leather bucket seats (plus R&P steering, >> > electric >> > fan etc). I'd like to think these cars are in the $30 - $40K range. I >> > was >> > in a TR restoration shop in the UK last week where there were six TR3 >> > going >> > from between $60 - $80K. >> > >> > Having said that, eBay rarely sees more than $25K for a TR3. >> > >> > My guess? Perfect restoration and upgrades ~ $40K+: Really nice >> > frame-off >> > restoration $20 - 30K: anything less be very careful. >> > >> > Do folks think I am way off ? >> > >> > Andrew >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net >> > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On >> > Behalf Of >> > John Macartney >> > Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 5:42 PM >> > To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> > Subject: [TR] Relative values >> > >> > List >> > >> > Recognising that most things are only worth what the buyer is prepared >> > to >> > pay, I'd appreciate a >> > little feedback on the likely US value of a 1959 TR3A. Condition is >> > alleged >> > to be 'showroom' (but >> > whose showroom?) and while probably not concours, it looks an >> > interesting >> > car. Any feedback can be >> > in US$. >> > >> > Cheers, Jonmac >> > >> > The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 >> > www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk >> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> > http://www.vtr.org >> > >> > http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > >> > Triumphs at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> > _______________________________________________ >> > >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > >> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> > http://www.vtr.org >> > >> > http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > >> > Triumphs at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Nov 16 13:43:37 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 13:43:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: If I want to drive a reliable, comfortable, good-handling, safe car with more horsepower I suppose I could just borrow my wife's Toyota. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: [TR] Relative values > That's fine if you want an unreliable, uncomfortable, poorly-handling and > potentially unsafe car with 90-odd horse-power. From bobannand at hfx.eastlink.ca Fri Nov 16 14:10:07 2007 From: bobannand at hfx.eastlink.ca (bobannand) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 17:10:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Relative values References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <473E072F.7000602@hfx.eastlink.ca> Hah! You don't have to go that far. I had several Ladas that had all those qualities. Not nearly as collectable though. Some people were appalled that we drove Lada. My father took it a step further. After the fall of the Iron Curtain, he rounded up all the rusted-out, broken-down Ladas he could find and sold them to Russian fishermen as deck cargo back to Russia. Bob TR3 TS59977L Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: >If I want to drive a reliable, comfortable, good-handling, safe car with >more horsepower I suppose I could just borrow my wife's Toyota. > >Geo From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Nov 16 14:22:09 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 16:22:09 EST Subject: [TR] Relative values Message-ID: In a message dated 11/16/2007 10:58:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: IMO, a 100 point, concours winning restoration might bring $30K today, but to get much more than that it would have to be a "special interest" car. Modifications are, at best, "value neutral", unless perhaps you manage to find a buyer that wants exactly those changes, or the car is modified for a particular vintage racing class, etc. Randall Hi Guys, For John's TR3 value here in the USA I would confirm what Randall has stated. I was following values and sale prices last year rather close for I had a buyer interested in a TR3B that I was trying to help. One TR3B from Texas sold for around $32,500 in the spring of 07. This car was at one time a premier Concours Car immaculately restored as original and meeting the special interest criteria. I knew the car for I lost to it at a TRA National. The only time I ever lost in a competition with my TR3B. It was not close, I was massacred. After the sale I was fortunate to see the car for a guy here in NE Ohio purchased it. It had gone away some from it's Glory days but still was in very good shape. Regards, Darrell ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 16 14:29:40 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 13:29:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] washer type to use for banjo bolts - fiber or copper In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <015201c82897$cbafd4d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Since no one else seems to have an opinion, I'll take a stab at this. > It seems that fiber washers are used for banjo bolts > such as the ones on the fuel pump in my Stag. Can I use copper > washers instead? You probably can, but I would stick with fiber. The fiber ones take less force to crush and seal, so switching to copper increases the chances of a leak (or of breaking the fitting from overtightening). > I actually need to get washers for the bango bolt on > the BW35 transmission filler pipe. Can I use copper > or aluminum ones? Same comment as above. > Are these standard sizes? I believe you should be able to find ones that work without too much trouble. Might not look exactly as original, though. According to Peter's web site, the fuel pump washers are 5/8 by 7/8, which would be P/N 95601A375 at MMC (though you might consider just buying them from LDPart, since MMC will only sell a box of 100). http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3137 I couldn't find a listing of the size for the BW35 filler, but it shouldn't be too hard to measure your banjo and find a washer that will fit. If necessary, you can open up the center hole with a round file. Or again, just buy the washers from a Triumph specialist : Paddocks has them listed (P/N 158337 Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 16 15:15:13 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 14:15:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] 3a fuel line routing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <015a01c8289e$28bd5660$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Not too worried about the main length of it front <-> back, but can > someone direct me to a picture of how it goes on the input side of the > fuel pump? And where does the flexible section come into play? I know > that this car was new enough not to have the shutoff near the pump. I'm not certain (since my cars have the shutoff), but I believe there is still a short section of hard line that curves around from the pump inlet, and then soft line that joins it to the hard line coming from the tank. > Also - if it comes to this - what is the thread size? Something hard > to find if I am making up new lines? I don't recall the dimensions offhand, but the threads are standard for a 5/16" compression fitting. Looking at the MMC catalog, I think that makes the threads 1/2-24. Shouldn't be too hard to find a suitable nut at your FLAPS, and ordinary brake line tubing will do for the tubing. But there are two flies in the ointment : 1) The original compression sleeves were longer than those readily available today. Although a new one might work, frequently the nut will bottom in the threads in the hole before compressing the sleeve enough to make a tight joint. 2) Although the pump outlet is configured for 5/16", the line to the carbs is 1/4" OD. Triumph accomplished this with a special nut. I was able to find one of these nuts at my FLAPS, once ... but it was the last one they had (in the wrong bin) and they said they had no idea where it came from, or how to buy more. So I wound up making some special nuts on my own, with extended tips to work with standard compression sleeves. I used brass, but next time I'll use hex-shaped steel stock. There are other creative solutions as well, but since they didn't work for me, I'll let someone else tell you how. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 16 15:25:02 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 14:25:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <015b01c8289f$87ed3500$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > That's fine if you want an unreliable, uncomfortable, > poorly-handling and potentially unsafe car with 90-odd horse-power. I ALWAYS say, "It's your car, it should please you." So by all means go ahead and modify it just as much as you like, you'll get no objections from me. Friend of mine has a TR3 with an American V8 under the hood, and it was a blast to drive (Thanks, Paul!) ... just not my cup o' tea. In fact, my own TR3A had a lengthy list of modifications, which I plan to copy to the 'new' TR3 along with some Miata seats and other 'improvements'. But I realize I'm not improving the value of the car by adding non-period modifications; only my enjoyment of the car (which is what it's all about to me). And one of the very first things I did was take off the aftermarket steering wheel and put back the original wheel & control head instead of the turn signal switch on the dash ... I'm funny that way. Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Nov 16 15:42:31 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 22:42:31 -0000 Subject: [TR] Relative values References: <000901c82847$8189cd20$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> <473DE901.9050800@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <018a01c828a1$f9d10550$0201a8c0@Bevan> Joe Burlein wrote: >I think the upgrades detract from the overall value. For big money, you want original or as close >as you can get. Just my 2 cents. Well, thanks to everyone for their replies and guidance. Sure looks as though sidescreeners are beginning to make the money in the US that they've been making here for a while. Andy Mace was right in his statement that the bulk of sports car shipments went to North America and this is why prices in the US have remained low by comparison. Its all down to supply and demand in virtually any commodity. Make anything desirable difficult to obtain and the price always goes up or the residual values of used stays high. Sidescreeners have been like chicken's teeth in Europe for years and have always commanded high prices - even for trash condition. As for wanting something that just looks and probably is original in appearance, that's not really my scene. I was lucky(?) enough to see hundreds of Triumphs that were as original as they come - when they were new and straight off the line. IMHO, they were just plain uninteresting because they all looked the same. The 'originality' (for me) comes in when you pit the technology of fifty or more years ago against modern vehicles. Not only engine performance but gearing, tyre and braking technology and overall handling. I've had a lot of fun that way in taking an older car *almost* to its safe limits against the best of modern mass produced stuff and when you do that - and come out ahead of the other guy, or you make him mad by so doing - that's where 'originality' comes to the fore. Dare I say it, or has it got something to do with the ability to safely push older technology to the limit? Yes, miles on the odometer, squashed flies on the paintwork, the smell of a hot engine and brake pad dust on the wheels. Jonmac From twakeman at razzolink.com Fri Nov 16 16:17:47 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:17:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <015b01c8289f$87ed3500$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> <015b01c8289f$87ed3500$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <473E251B.7000102@razzolink.com> Randall wrote: > And one of the very first things I did was take off the aftermarket steering > wheel and put back the original wheel & control head instead of the turn > signal switch on the dash ... I'm funny that way. > > I ALWAYS say, "It's your car, it should please you." OK One of the first things I did was remove the stock steering wheel and turn signal to replace them with a Motoleta wood wheel and a bugeye sprite toggle turn signal switch in the instrument panel dimmer switch hole. ... I'm funny that way. TeriAnn From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Nov 16 16:22:42 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 18:22:42 EST Subject: [TR] Relative values Message-ID: In a message dated 11/16/2007 12:00:11 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: That's fine if you want an unreliable, uncomfortable, poorly-handling and potentially unsafe car with 90-odd horse-power. I have found in my years of owning and driving British cars that "upgrades" rarely improve reliability or handling. More likely they satisfy the 'boy racer" desires of the owners and the bottom line of the sellers of aftermarket equipment. I have two E Types which are excellent examples of this. Both are fully restored. The 63 is absolutely stock in every detail. The 64 has every recommended upgrade to improve reliability and handling. The 63 is a very sweet car to drive. You feel like you're part of the car. The 64 handles like a truck by comparison. It corners flatter and accelerates harder. I don't spend much time accelerating hard or trying to go around curves that fast. It depends on what you want. I hotted up my TR3 when it was last restored and I'm sorry I did it. I like stock best! This is not a common belief I know, but there are many people who think as I do, and especially serious collectors. Best, Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From ZoboHerald at aol.com Fri Nov 16 16:38:15 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 18:38:15 EST Subject: [TR] Relative values Message-ID: In a message dated 11/16/2007 5:42:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: ...Not only engine performance but gearing, tyre and braking technology and overall handling. I've had a lot of fun that way in taking an older car *almost* to its safe limits against the best of modern mass produced stuff and when you do that - and come out ahead of the other guy, or you make him mad by so doing - that's where 'originality' comes to the fore. Dare I say it, or has it got something to do with the ability to safely push older technology to the limit? Yes, miles on the odometer, squashed flies on the paintwork, the smell of a hot engine and brake pad dust on the wheels. ==AM== Right, John! I'm the first to recognize limitations with my "lowly" (and 99% stock) Herald 1200 sedan. If nothing else, it certainly would do better in terms of fuel economy with an OD or a lower numerical diff. ratio, or perhaps both. And I do admit to having added 4.5" wheels and radial tires (as opposed to the original 3.5" wheels and bias-plies)...oh, and Koni shocks on the rear (since they, too, were kicking around the barn unused). But I'm pretty sure I've impressed/surprised a few surrounding drivers with the car's cornering ability. And I'm getting an honest 30 mpg in mixed-condition driving. Do I ever feel less than "safe" in the Herald? Sure...every time some mindless idiot multi-tasking in an oversize SUV or pickup fills my rearview mirror. ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 16 16:51:05 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:51:05 -0800 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <018a01c828a1$f9d10550$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <000901c82847$8189cd20$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1><473DE901.9050800@earthlink.net> <018a01c828a1$f9d10550$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <016501c828ab$8d817790$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Yes, miles on the odometer, squashed flies on > the paintwork, the smell of a hot engine > and brake pad dust on the wheels. Which perhaps is a market segment that no one has commented on yet ... IMO you should be able to pick up a nice 'driver' for around $10-15K. Older paint, some nicks & dings here & there, a few modifications; but a sound, roadworthy car. For example, I happened to see this ad on the PTOA site : FOR SALE: TRIUMPH: 1960 TR3. Mechanically & cosmetically very good original condition. Extremely well maintained and has had $$$$ in renovations over the past four years. Recently has had new clutch installed. Has new tires, new tonneau cover, new side curtains, and new frame boot. Drives like a dream. All chrome is intact and original. Always garaged. This is a rare gem just waiting for someone to enjoy its sassy personality. Asking , $11,500, OBO. Details with photos available. (503) 628-3431, (503) 705-2739, email; newvwest at msn.com (09/07) BTW, this also roughly matches the price guidelines given on the NADA web site, which reports "low retail" for a 59 TR3A as $9350, and "average retail" as $15300. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Nov 16 17:54:14 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 19:54:14 EST Subject: [TR] Relative values Message-ID: Someone the other day asked what would get the greatest improvement in performance of his sportscar. The answer given was spending money on an advanced driving class would get him the most significant improvement. Leave the car alone. Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From auprichard at comcast.net Fri Nov 16 17:53:56 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 19:53:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <016501c828ab$8d817790$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <000001c828b4$54caa490$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> This has been a great exchange, fueled in part, I realize, by my punchy reply to a posting. But give me a break, my company's stock is at an all-time low, I did something (not quite sure what) to tick my wife off and it's too cold and wet to take the TR out. But you guys are great: I enjoy coming home to my emails almost as much as the welcome I get from the dog. And the wife is great - she never questions how much the cars cost. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 6:51 PM Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Relative values > Yes, miles on the odometer, squashed flies on > the paintwork, the smell of a hot engine > and brake pad dust on the wheels. Which perhaps is a market segment that no one has commented on yet ... IMO you should be able to pick up a nice 'driver' for around $10-15K. Older paint, some nicks & dings here & there, a few modifications; but a sound, roadworthy car. For example, I happened to see this ad on the PTOA site : FOR SALE: TRIUMPH: 1960 TR3. Mechanically & cosmetically very good original condition. Extremely well maintained and has had $$$$ in renovations over the past four years. Recently has had new clutch installed. Has new tires, new tonneau cover, new side curtains, and new frame boot. Drives like a dream. All chrome is intact and original. Always garaged. This is a rare gem just waiting for someone to enjoy its sassy personality. Asking , $11,500, OBO. Details with photos available. (503) 628-3431, (503) 705-2739, email; newvwest at msn.com (09/07) BTW, this also roughly matches the price guidelines given on the NADA web site, which reports "low retail" for a 59 TR3A as $9350, and "average retail" as $15300. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Fri Nov 16 18:02:42 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 20:02:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Value Message-ID: <003c01c828b5$8ead1ac0$790f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> > That's fine if you want an unreliable, uncomfortable, poorly-handling and > potentially unsafe car with 90-odd horse-power. ============================================================================= ============================================ # 1 - Unreliable = your wallet has way too many $$$$$ in it, learn what "MAINTENANCE" means you will find it just below "your" wrist # 2 - Uncomfortable =as compared to a recliner and remote, learn what wind in the hair, sun in the face and a "BIG" smile on your face is all about # 3 - Poorly handling = I'd like to compare your walking after 55 years of abuse, what a pleasure knowing this is how it was way back when # 4 - unsafe = as compared to a M-1 tank on super highways, check answer for # 1 above # 5 - 90 horsepower = the V/W beetle had only 45 HP yet it is still the # 1 selling car in the ="WORLD"=" ============================================================================= =========================================== I've only driven my 59 T/R 3A for 150,000 miles since a 1992 frame-off nuts and bolt restoration, and everyday I am just so happy it's "ours" "FT" From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 16 19:48:18 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 21:48:18 EST Subject: [TR] Relative values Message-ID: In a message dated 11/16/2007 7:56:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: But you guys are great: I enjoy coming home to my emails almost as much as the welcome I get from the dog. And the wife is great - she never questions how much the cars cost. Hey! My wife calls you guys my invisible friends. And she never asks, either. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From fishplate at charter.net Fri Nov 16 20:00:44 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 22:00:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E 080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20071117030048.TBUN17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 02:58 PM 11/16/2007, auprichard at comcast.net wrote: >That's fine if you want an unreliable, uncomfortable, >poorly-handling and potentially unsafe car with 90-odd horse-power. And my TR has 90 of the oddest horsepower you could imagine... -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1135 - Release Date: 11/16/2007 10:58 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Nov 16 20:24:24 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 22:24:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <20071117030048.TBUN17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E 080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <473E1898.27510.2A9F52EF@localhost> On 16 Nov 2007 at 22:00, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > >That's fine if you want an unreliable, uncomfortable, > >poorly-handling and potentially unsafe car with 90-odd horse-power. > > And my TR has 90 of the oddest horsepower you could imagine... Um, are the horses odd or is it the power they produce? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.33/1133 - Release Date: 11/15/2007 8:57 PM From TBe749 at aol.com Sat Nov 17 04:35:36 2007 From: TBe749 at aol.com (TBe749 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 06:35:36 EST Subject: [TR] Spitfire for sale Indianapolis Message-ID: Talked to owner yesterday. Info is 1980 Spitfire, white, overdrive, hardtop, luggage rack, 43K miles, sounded like a pretty original car Asking $2,500, car located in Indianapolis Contact Steve Maddux, 317-796-2146, _rb211mx at yahoo.com_ (mailto:rb211mx at yahoo.com) NFI, never seen car Tom Beaver ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 17 05:12:44 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 07:12:44 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A OD A and J type Message-ID: I am about to install a J type overdrive on my 3A which has a 4 tranny. Given that my tranny has the necessary 'dimple' on the 1/2 shift fork for OD to function in 2 gear is there any reason that I am overlooking that the switch could not be installed in the cover for both the 1/2 shift fork and the 3/4 shift fork so that the OD would work like an A? As you may note by the commission number my car origianally had OD but somewhere along a 'restoration' it got removed. Please hold off on the tranny mount issues. I am aware and have worked that out. TIA David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From trhouse at greenapple.com Sat Nov 17 07:52:10 2007 From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder) Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 09:52:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values...Smile!!!! In-Reply-To: <000901c82847$8189cd20$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: on 11/16/07 6:54 AM, Andrew Uprichard at auprichard at comcast.net wrote: > I have two of these beauties. In both cases I have done a frame-off > restoration, increased the engine BHP, added overdrive, and installed > custom-made roll-bars and leather bucket seats (plus R&P steering, electric > fan etc). I'd like to think these cars are in the $30 - $40K range. I was > in a TR restoration shop in the UK last week where there were six TR3 going > from between $60 - $80K. > > Having said that, eBay rarely sees more than $25K for a TR3. > > My guess? Perfect restoration and upgrades ~ $40K+: Really nice frame-off > restoration $20 - 30K: anything less be very careful. > > Do folks think I am way off ? > > Andrew > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > John Macartney > Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 5:42 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Relative values > > List > > Recognising that most things are only worth what the buyer is prepared to > pay, I'd appreciate a > little feedback on the likely US value of a 1959 TR3A. Condition is alleged > to be 'showroom' (but > whose showroom?) and while probably not concours, it looks an interesting > car. Any feedback can be > in US$. > > Cheers, Jonmac > > The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 > www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > Drove the TR3 with a new younster a couple of weeks ago!!!! Gasoline..... $3.27/Gallon!!!!! Ice Cream, Candy bar,and a Bag of Pretzels .... $4.65!!!!! Smile on a 6 month old's face, sitting up unassisted, going for his first ride........Priceless!!!!!!! From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Nov 17 08:10:19 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 15:10:19 +0000 Subject: [TR] It's Coming! Message-ID: <111720071510.13181.473F045B000B03940000337D22165258569C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> http://news.yahoo.com/s/afp/20071115/sc_afp/usautoshowlosangelesenvironment From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Nov 17 08:16:31 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 15:16:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'll weigh in on modifications. I too have driven Paul's TR3A with the Ford V-8. An extremely comfortable ride and a pleasure to drive. I personally have a similar V-8 conversion in my TR3A. The differences are my motor is hot to the touch before you start it. I have a stick shift instead of an automatic. I, also, used the Ford rear end. I have made about every other improvement to the car you can name, including the Revington rack and pinion, except front brakes. The car is a wonderful ride. No problems getting out of traffic, it doesn't overheat, it corners like a go kart, I consider the TR3A seats more comfortable than my T-Birds seats, and it attracts women like flies to honey. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista. + Windows Live. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_M ediaCtr_bigscreen_102007 From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Nov 17 08:55:03 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 10:55:03 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A OD A and J type Message-ID: In a message dated 11/17/2007 6:13:14 AM Central Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: > I am about to install a J type overdrive on my 3A which has a 4 tranny. > Given that my tranny has the necessary 'dimple' on the 1/2 shift fork for > OD to > function in 2 gear is there any reason that I am overlooking that the > switch > could not be installed in the cover for both the 1/2 shift fork and the 3/4 > > shift fork so that the OD would work like an A? As you may note by the > commission number my car origianally had OD but somewhere along a > 'restoration' it > got removed. > Please hold off on the tranny mount issues. I am aware and have worked > that > out. > TIA > I had OD in second gear on my TR6 (with J-type) and eventually disconnected the switch. It was a waste of time in my book. At second gear speeds the OD takes so long to engage that you will be upshifting to third by the time it engages. I suppose there are traffic situations where the speed will bounce between 10 and 40 MPH and having OD in second gear would be a nice thing to have but the TR6 has enough torque that third gear will work well, too. The short answer is: Yes you can and it will work. But my recommendation is it isn't worth the trouble. Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Nov 17 12:45:49 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 14:45:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Update Message-ID: <000001c82952$76c70270$210110ac@bobspc> My Sway Bar saga just keeps getting worse.....how can something so simple cause so much stress....pun intended! I just updated my site (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SwayBar.htm ) with some pictures to show what happens when you have the wrong components and then install them wrong. Can you say cracked bracket?!? Basically a 7/8" sway bar requires different brackets and different end links then the stock sway bar. The problem is I can't find any catalog that actually tells you that or lists the end link as being for a 7/8" bar. I can find complete kits but not individual components. Time to call Richard Good and TRF to see if they have what I need. Bob Lang sent a great link (http://tinyurl.com/3e2tmj) that talks about the correct way to determine end link length. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1135 - Release Date: 11/16/2007 10:58 PM From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 17 15:57:57 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 17:57:57 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A OD A and J type Message-ID: Fred and Dave, Thanks. I don't really see using OD in 2 gear either. The car originally had OD and obviously it was an A. I had been toying with the idea. I have some conservative mods on the car and am crating and saving all original parts but thought that while I'm at it I may as well make it behave like an A type. Maybe not such a good idea. I've been known to have those occasionally. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From cole.jw at comcast.net Sat Nov 17 22:40:56 2007 From: cole.jw at comcast.net (Jerry Cole) Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 21:40:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] Ouch! It's beautiful. References: Message-ID: <00a001c829a5$978927b0$ba00a8c0@Belen> Good evening all, I visited my 1972 TR6 in the body shop today. She's turning out beautiful. The five coats of clear over the damson color are being sanded and polished.. I dropped the bumpers off at the chromer and was greeted with a $1065 bill. Yikes. No sense in putting dull bumpers back on a shiny TR, huh? Next is a new top and seat upholstery. I know it's been a long time. I promised my old uplolstery to someone on-list to use as templates. I haven't forgotten. Once I have my car back and buy the seat foam, I will start the upholstery. That is one job that I think is a stinker. It's getting exciting. I can hardly wait (for everything except the bills!) I have always said she will be ready for the spring. I just never said what year. Now I know which year. Jerry Cole Lakewood, WA. 1972 TR6 (Helen Back) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Nov 18 06:47:10 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 08:47:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ouch! It's beautiful. In-Reply-To: <00a001c829a5$978927b0$ba00a8c0@Belen> References: <00a001c829a5$978927b0$ba00a8c0@Belen> Message-ID: <001101c829e9$86d93600$210110ac@bobspc> Jerry, Doing the upholstery isn't that bad to do. There's a link on my main site page to the "VB Guide to re-upholstering your TR6" that gives you step by step instructions. Of course after getting the paint and chrome bill what's one more bill! You could have a shop do it too. Good Luck Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Cole Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 12:41 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Ouch! It's beautiful. Good evening all, I visited my 1972 TR6 in the body shop today. She's turning out beautiful. The five coats of clear over the damson color are being sanded and polished.. I dropped the bumpers off at the chromer and was greeted with a $1065 bill. Yikes. No sense in putting dull bumpers back on a shiny TR, huh? Next is a new top and seat upholstery. I know it's been a long time. I promised my old uplolstery to someone on-list to use as templates. I haven't forgotten. Once I have my car back and buy the seat foam, I will start the upholstery. That is one job that I think is a stinker. It's getting exciting. I can hardly wait (for everything except the bills!) I have always said she will be ready for the spring. I just never said what year. Now I know which year. Jerry Cole Lakewood, WA. 1972 TR6 (Helen Back) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Sun Nov 18 12:45:31 2007 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 14:45:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Seat reupholstery Message-ID: <00be01c82a1b$95095700$6700a8c0@andy> Does anyone have a copy of the seat upholstery instructions  I think Moss used to have them on their website and I had a copy, but that was a couple of hard drive crashes ago. I need them for a TR3A but I suppose any instructions would help; even though the 6 doesnt have the plywood to staple the covers to. Thanks, Andy No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Nov 18 13:01:58 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 15:01:58 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A OD A and J type Message-ID: In a message dated 11/17/2007 4:57:57 PM Central Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: > Fred and Dave, > Thanks. I don't really see using OD in 2 gear either. The car originally > had OD and obviously it was an A. I had been toying with the idea. I have > some conservative mods on the car and am crating and saving all original parts > but thought that while I'm at it I may as well make it behave like an A > type. Maybe not such a good idea. I've been known to have those occasionally. > > I didn' tmean to say it was a bad thing. But I would say that if you unit is already working in 3rd and 4th it's not worth the trouble to take it apart and make it work in 2nd, too. Dave From moira.secrest at verizon.net Sun Nov 18 13:17:35 2007 From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M Secrest) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 15:17:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Z/S Carburetor Mixture Adjusting Screw Message-ID: Slowly piecing together my GT6-3, sitting now for two years. Engine is running but the mixture adjustment screw in one of the dashpots refuses to move. I'm afraid much to force it. The adjuster in the other carb is sticky, but turns. I'm assuming this is just a little rust in the threads, and I have filled the dashpot with PB Blaster to soak the screw. Does this problem sound familiar? == Martin Secrest 73 GT6 72 TR6 Arlington, VA From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Nov 18 13:23:43 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 15:23:43 EST Subject: [TR] Z/S Carburetor Mixture Adjusting Screw Message-ID: In a message dated 11/18/2007 2:18:04 PM Central Standard Time, moira.secrest at verizon.net writes: > Slowly piecing together my GT6-3, sitting now for two years. Engine is > running but the mixture adjustment screw in one of the dashpots refuses to > move. I'm afraid much to force it. The adjuster in the other carb is > sticky, but turns. > > I'm assuming this is just a little rust in the threads, and I have filled > the dashpot with PB Blaster to soak the screw. Does this problem sound > familiar? > On those really tough ones I've removed the piston from the carb so I can grab the piston body. Then I can apply some serious torque to the adjust screw. Oft times the brass screw on the side will be overly tight and not allow the needle body to slide. Then the head on the screw breaks. That is the time to call Joe Curto. Cheers Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 18 14:07:28 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 13:07:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] Z/S Carburetor Mixture Adjusting Screw In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071118210728.ULKW10822.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > I'm assuming this is just a little rust in the threads, and I > have filled the dashpot with PB Blaster to soak the screw. > Does this problem sound familiar? Not a problem I've had, but seems likely. Since the damper is supposed to be isolated from the mixture screw threads by an O-ring, you might want to squirt a little PBB in from below as well. IMO, it's also worth temporarily removing the indexing screw from the side (which is supposed to keep the needle carrier from rotating in the piston while you turn the adjusting screw); and seeing that the needle carrier rotates. That will also help work some PBB in to where the threads are. Then when you reinsert the indexing screw, make sure it engages with the slot in the carrier. If it misses the slot, it can bind the carrier and make adjustment impossible. Also be sure you are "unscrewing" the adjustment screw. If it's already full rich, it won't turn any farther clockwise. CCW is OK, though, at the end the screw will just come out of the carrier. The adjustment screw (and it's hex) are only brass, so don't apply too much force. A little heat might help, if nothing else does. And IMO after all this, it's a good idea to replace the O-ring seal on the adjustment screw. Randall From jmitch at snet.net Sun Nov 18 15:52:24 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 17:52:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Iridium tip spark plugs Message-ID: <4740C228.3030005@snet.net> A friend gave me a set of NGK iridium spark plugs BPR6EIX to try. Inside the box there was a warning about trying to gap them can cause the electrode to break so I put them in as is with the gap measured as .030". The car runs very poorly with lots of hesitation coming off idle. Would this be because of the gap, or is copper a better material for non high energy ignition systems and the iridium just makes them last longer? I was going to try gapping them, but I think I'll just put the old NGK's back in. John Mitchell 76 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 18 16:32:44 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 15:32:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] Iridium tip spark plugs In-Reply-To: <4740C228.3030005@snet.net> Message-ID: <20071118233243.JQCO14436.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Would this be because of > the gap, or is copper a better material for non high energy > ignition systems and the iridium just makes them last longer? John, you didn't say what you're trying to fire them with. IMO .030" is too wide for the stock ignition system. Oddly enough, NGK's web site doesn't mention not to regap them, only to not change the gap more than .008". In any case, I think the main danger is that of damaging the (relatively fragile) center electrode; so careful bending of the side electrode should be OK. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Nov 18 16:36:37 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 18:36:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Seat reupholstery In-Reply-To: <00be01c82a1b$95095700$6700a8c0@andy> References: <00be01c82a1b$95095700$6700a8c0@andy> Message-ID: <000401c82a3b$deb39fd0$210110ac@bobspc> Andy, They were from VB and the best I can offer you is that I have the whole guide scanned and posted on my site. There's a link to it on the main page. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andy Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 2:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Seat reupholstery Does anyone have a copy of the seat upholstery instructions  I think Moss used to have them on their website and I had a copy, but that was a couple of hard drive crashes ago. I need them for a TR3A but I suppose any instructions would help; even though the 6 doesnt have the plywood to staple the covers to. Thanks, Andy No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM From jmitch at snet.net Sun Nov 18 16:40:29 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 18:40:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Iridium tip spark plugs In-Reply-To: <20071118233243.JQCO14436.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20071118233243.JQCO14436.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <4740CD6D.6020302@snet.net> Thanks Randall, I might as well try as they are useless as is. Is the iridium tip as good a conductor as copper? John Randall wrote: >> Would this be because of >> the gap, or is copper a better material for non high energy >> ignition systems and the iridium just makes them last longer? >> > > John, you didn't say what you're trying to fire them with. IMO .030" is too > wide for the stock ignition system. > > Oddly enough, NGK's web site doesn't mention not to regap them, only to not > change the gap more than .008". In any case, I think the main danger is > that of damaging the (relatively fragile) center electrode; so careful > bending of the side electrode should be OK. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Nov 18 16:40:36 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 18:40:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Iridium tip spark plugs In-Reply-To: <4740C228.3030005@snet.net> References: <4740C228.3030005@snet.net> Message-ID: <000501c82a3c$6dd3caa0$210110ac@bobspc> John, That beautiful original TR6 having something non-original like NGK plugs tipped with unobtainium! There's hope for you after all........... :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 5:52 PM To: 6 Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Iridium tip spark plugs A friend gave me a set of NGK iridium spark plugs BPR6EIX to try. Inside the box there was a warning about trying to gap them can cause the electrode to break so I put them in as is with the gap measured as .030". The car runs very poorly with lots of hesitation coming off idle. Would this be because of the gap, or is copper a better material for non high energy ignition systems and the iridium just makes them last longer? I was going to try gapping them, but I think I'll just put the old NGK's back in. John Mitchell 76 TR6 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM From jmitch at snet.net Sun Nov 18 16:42:42 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 18:42:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] RE: Iridium tip spark plugs In-Reply-To: <000501c82a3c$6dd3caa0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <4740C228.3030005@snet.net> <000501c82a3c$6dd3caa0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <4740CDF2.2070207@snet.net> As long as I can slip it by the originality police(the wife) I'm for it. John Bob Danielson wrote: > John, > That beautiful original TR6 having something non-original like NGK plugs > tipped with unobtainium! There's hope for you after all........... :-) > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of John Mitchell > Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 5:52 PM > To: 6 Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Iridium tip spark plugs > > A friend gave me a set of NGK iridium spark plugs BPR6EIX to try. > Inside the box there was a warning about trying to gap them can cause the > electrode to break so I put them in as is with the gap measured as .030". > The car runs very poorly with lots of hesitation coming off idle. Would > this be because of the gap, or is copper a better material for non high > energy ignition systems and the iridium just makes them last longer? I was > going to try gapping them, but I think I'll just put the old NGK's back in. > John Mitchell 76 TR6 _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 > 2:55 PM > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 > 2:55 PM > > Your messages not reaching the list? > Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html > > === Help keep Team.Net on the air > === http://www.team.net/donate.html > > === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net or try > === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool > === Other lists available at > === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo > === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > === http://www.team.net/the-local > === Edit your replies! From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Nov 18 16:48:45 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 18:48:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] (Fwd) Re: Iridium tip spark plugs Message-ID: <4740890D.10253.342699C4@localhost> On 18 Nov 2007 at 17:52, John Mitchell wrote: > so I put them in as is with the gap measured as .030". The > car runs very poorly with lots of hesitation coming off idle. I'm going to jump in here because I'm curious and want to hear what other folks say. I'd guess the gap to be the problem. Why not re-gap them carefully? Otherwise, if you're going to not use them it won't matter whether you not use them broken or not use them intact. Unless you intend to do someone else the same favor your friend did you, of course. Are you sure the box said iridium and not inhibitium? Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Nov 18 18:13:01 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 20:13:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4740E31D.50705@earthlink.net> Oh please. They aren't unreliable if you actually maintain them and drive them. But I will concede that REVERSIBLE mods are fine if the car comes with the original parts in boxes. But again if you are talking about big money for restored cars a bunch of modern mods will detract from the value of the car. auprichard at comcast.net wrote: > That's fine if you want an unreliable, uncomfortable, poorly-handling > and potentially unsafe car with 90-odd horse-power. > > > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: Joe Burlein > > > I think the upgrades detract from the overall value. For big > money, you > > want original or as close as you can get. Just my 2 cents. > > > > > > Joe > > > > > > Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > > I have two of these beauties. In both cases I have done a > frame-off > > > restoration, increased the engine BHP, added overdrive, and > installed > > > custom-made roll-bars and leather bucket seats (plus R&P > steering, electric > > > fan etc). I'd like to think these cars are in the $30 - $40K > range. I was > > > in a TR restoration shop in the UK last week where there were > six TR3 going > > > from between $60 - $80K. > > > > > > Having said that, eBay rarely sees more than $25K for a TR3. > > ; > > > > My guess? Perfect restoration and upgrades ~ $40K+: Really > nice frame-off > > > restoration $20 - 30K: anything less be very careful. > > > > > > Do folks think I am way off ? > > > > > > Andrew > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net > > > > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of > > > John Macartney > > > Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 5:42 PM > > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > > Subject: [TR] Relative values > > > > > > List > > > > > > Recognising that most things are only worth what the buyer is > prepared to > > > pay, I'd appreciate a > > > little feedback on the likely US value of a 1959 TR3A. > Condition is alleged > > > to be 'showroom' (but > > > whose showroom?) and while probably n ot concours, it looks an > interesting > > > car. Any feedback can be > > > in US$. > > > > > > Cheers, Jonmac From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Nov 18 18:13:55 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 20:13:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <473E072F.7000602@hfx.eastlink.ca> References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> <473E072F.7000602@hfx.eastlink.ca> Message-ID: <4740E353.3010107@earthlink.net> What the heck is a Lada? bobannand wrote: > Hah! You don't have to go that far. I had several Ladas that had all > those qualities. Not nearly as collectable though. Some people were > appalled that we drove Lada. My father took it a step further. After the > fall of the Iron Curtain, he rounded up all the rusted-out, broken-down > Ladas he could find and sold them to Russian fishermen as deck cargo > back to Russia. > Bob > TR3 TS59977L > > > Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > > >> If I want to drive a reliable, comfortable, good-handling, safe car with >> more horsepower I suppose I could just borrow my wife's Toyota. >> >> Geo >> > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Nov 18 18:21:04 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 20:21:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] It's Coming! In-Reply-To: <111720071510.13181.473F045B000B03940000337D22165258569C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <111720071510.13181.473F045B000B03940000337D22165258569C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4740E500.1000600@earthlink.net> Just wait, in 50 years someone will be complaining that all the water vapor being produced by cars is causing upper atmosphere saturation thereby producing bigger and longer rain storms. terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > http://news.yahoo.com/s/afp/20071115/sc_afp/usautoshowlosangelesenvironment > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Nov 18 18:24:33 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 20:24:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Backfiring! Help! Message-ID: <4740E5D1.4010407@earthlink.net> I've a 72 TR6 that is having some serious issues with backfiring. Before I cart her off to a mechanic does anyone have any advice? I've changed out plugs, checked the carb for leaks etc. Timing was spot on. She did sit for several months during and after our move. Honestly, I have no idea how to diagnose this problem. (FYI, she has a blower and HD8 carb on her plus a Pertronix unit) From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Nov 18 18:32:52 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 01:32:52 -0000 Subject: [TR] Relative values References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net><473E072F.7000602@hfx.eastlink.ca> <4740E353.3010107@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <03e501c82a4c$1b4ef6a0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Joe Burlein wrote > What the heck is a Lada? A Russian 4x4 called a Niva or a Cossack. Uncomfortable, noisy and less than impressive. Enjoy the sight of one here http://storm.tocmp.com/lada/niva/Lada%20Niva%201er.jpg Jonmac From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Nov 18 18:58:50 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 20:58:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] VB Guide to Re-doing TR6 Interior Message-ID: <000301c82a4f$bdf08a60$210110ac@bobspc> In the past few days there's been two posts about re-doing a Triumph interior. I've had the VB Guide for a TR6 posted to my site for 10 years now and it just hit me how lousy those scans are. Way back in '97 I tried to keep the files size small since most people were on Dial-Up. Now with broadband just about everywhere I re-did the scans in .pdf format with each page being about 1.5 MB times 10 pages.....you get the idea. As of 10 minutes ago everything is posted and the image quality is so much better. Andy....I know you downloaded everything earlier this evening but you might want to do it now. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM From mmarr at notwires.com Sun Nov 18 19:07:48 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 20:07:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] Relative values References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net><473E072F.7000602@hfx.eastlink.ca> <4740E353.3010107@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <001c01c82a50$fc304030$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Burlein" To: "bobannand" Cc: "TR List" Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 7:13 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Relative values > What the heck is a Lada? > It's a quote from Woody Allen's "Annie Hall". "Oh, Lada-da, Lada-da." Sorry, Jim Muller... Mike From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Nov 18 19:11:09 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 21:11:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <001c01c82a50$fc304030$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net><473E072F.7000602@hfx.eastlink.ca> <4740E353.3010107@earthlink.net> <001c01c82a50$fc304030$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <4740F0BD.7000408@earthlink.net> Oh, and here I thought it was some small furry animal from Eastern Europe... ;) Michael Marr wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Burlein" > To: "bobannand" > Cc: "TR List" > Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 7:13 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Relative values > > >> What the heck is a Lada? >> > > > It's a quote from Woody Allen's "Annie Hall". "Oh, Lada-da, Lada-da." > > Sorry, Jim Muller... > > Mike From mmarr at notwires.com Sun Nov 18 19:32:25 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 20:32:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Relative values References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net><473E072F.7000602@hfx.eastlink.ca> <4740E353.3010107@earthlink.net> <001c01c82a50$fc304030$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> <4740F0BD.7000408@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <002e01c82a54$6c7956d0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Burlein" To: "Michael Marr" Cc: "bobannand" ; "TR List" Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 8:11 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Relative values > Oh, and here I thought it was some small furry animal from Eastern > Europe... > > ;) Well, I Czeched into this and I found that there is, indeed, an animal of this name. When Hungary, it can be found Russian all over the countryside, hunting its favorite food, Turkey. After it has eaten its fill, it lies around making Bulgar noises. They are considered a delicacy in parts of the former Yugoslavia, where many restaurants will be glad to Serbia you one upon request. I will now get back to paying bills... Mike From ms6453 at optonline.net Sun Nov 18 19:34:01 2007 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 21:34:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Backfiring! Help! In-Reply-To: <4740E5D1.4010407@earthlink.net> References: <4740E5D1.4010407@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4740F619.4040502@optonline.net> Hi Joe, To get a better idea of the problem more info is needed. Does it backfire under load, if so when hot or cold. Is it back firing through the intake or exhaust? Did you put points in and eliminate the electronic ignition? What do the plugs look like? What does your vacuum gauge read. If you have an 02 sensor with a fuel/air mixture what does that read. Did this occur after any changes? Any other symptoms, hunting or surging idle, hard starting, hesitation, stumbling. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From pethier at comcast.net Sun Nov 18 20:01:23 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 03:01:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] Relative values Message-ID: <111920070301.5097.4740FC83000C3C7C000013E922007348409D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Joe Burlein > What the heck is a Lada? Any number of different FIAT cars made in Russia under license. Cheaper, thicker steel, drum brakes. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 18 21:30:28 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 20:30:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] Iridium tip spark plugs In-Reply-To: <4740CD6D.6020302@snet.net> Message-ID: <20071119043028.ETWG14436.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Thanks Randall, I might as well try as they are useless as > is. Is the iridium tip as good a conductor as copper? Beats me. How well it conducts is not the issue, but rather how well it functions as a spark plug electrode. Copper would be lousy, IMO, but how well "Iridium" compares to what they normally (or the "platinum" plugs I use), I have no idea. Randall From jmitch at snet.net Mon Nov 19 05:44:08 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 07:44:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Iridium tip spark plugs In-Reply-To: <20071119042712.ELOY6315.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20071119042712.ELOY6315.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <47418518.7060604@snet.net> I regapped last night. I'll try them out today. Thanks Randall wrote: > I'd try closing it up to .025" then. > > > >> Stock ignition with a pertronix in place of points. John >> >> Randall wrote: >> >>>> >>> John, you didn't say what you're trying to fire them with. >>> >> IMO .030" is too >> >>> wide for the stock ignition system. >>> >>> Oddly enough, NGK's web site doesn't mention not to regap >>> >> them, only to not >> >>> change the gap more than .008". In any case, I think the >>> >> main danger is From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Mon Nov 19 06:30:43 2007 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:30:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lada Message-ID: In Canada for a few years around 1980 we got a small 1500cc Lada sedan that was a clone of a Fiat 124. They were very inexpensive and for a short time, they were all over the roads. In fact they were mass produced in Russia on a huge scale, but for some reason were not brought into the US. A short time later, there were none to be seen as they were notoriously unreliable. After they were a year old or so, it was easy to buy one for $500. I think it was a short time later we got the Niva, a small 4x4 somewhat akin to the Suzuki Sidekick, and it was considered much more reliable. However it did not sell well, no doubt due to the reputation of the car that preceded it. Jim From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Nov 19 06:39:18 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:39:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <001c01c82a50$fc304030$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <47414BB6.3561.371EFFBF@localhost> On 18 Nov 2007 at 20:07, Michael Marr wrote: > It's a quote from Woody Allen's "Annie Hall". "Oh, Lada-da, Lada-da." > > Sorry, Jim Muller... Huh? Wha'd I do? I didn't do nuthin'. I was just sittin' here. Joe Curry did it. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1137 - Release Date: 11/18/2007 5:15 PM From supertr6 at earthlink.net Mon Nov 19 06:42:49 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:42:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Backfiring! Help! In-Reply-To: <4740F619.4040502@optonline.net> References: <4740E5D1.4010407@earthlink.net> <4740F619.4040502@optonline.net> Message-ID: <474192D9.9000808@earthlink.net> Mitch wrote: > Hi Joe, > > To get a better idea of the problem more info is needed. > Does it backfire under load, if so when hot or cold. Originally under load and when cold, now under idle conditions. > Is it back firing through the intake or exhaust? Intake > Did you put points in and eliminate the electronic ignition? Not yet, she won't even idle now. This was going to be the next thing I did as far as troubleshooting before the backfiring at idle happended. > What do the plugs look like? Fine, but, they are new. The old ones had the normal color range. > What does your vacuum gauge read. If are speaking of the PSI gauge, then 0. > If you have an 02 sensor with a fuel/air mixture what does that read. N/A, sorry. > Did this occur after any changes? No. > Any other symptoms, hunting or surging idle, hard starting, > hesitation, stumbling. The only symptom I had before the backfiring was a cut out at high RPM and hard acceleration. That was what made me start to question (after checking plugs, timing, car leaks, vacuum leaks) the Pertronix. I just never got around to swapping it out. Thanks for the help Mitch. Joe > > -- > Mitch Seff > Oceanside, N.Y. > 75 TR6 SC > http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Mon Nov 19 06:44:22 2007 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:44:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Joe Burlein wrote > What the heck is a Lada? A Russian 4x4 called a Niva or a Cossack. Uncomfortable, noisy and less than impressive. Enjoy the sight of one here http://storm.tocmp.com/lada/niva/Lada%20Niva%201er.jpg Jonmac ---------- Not all were 4x4, IIRC. These outmoded cars, some from Fiat-based designs, were the subject of more jokes than all, bar Skodas. They had their fans though, and price was their best feature. Brian From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Nov 19 06:59:34 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 07:59:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 References: Message-ID: <001801c82ab4$6bcb8900$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > Not all were 4x4, IIRC. These outmoded cars, some from Fiat-based designs, > were the subject of more jokes than all, bar Skodas. They had their fans > though, and price was their best feature. > > Brian Now, were they pusher fans, pullers, shrouded, manually controlled, thermostatically controlled, or what? And did they continue to run after the Lada was shut off? Or am I confusing this with another recent thread? Mike From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Nov 19 07:46:55 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 09:46:55 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 Message-ID: In a message dated 11/19/2007 8:00:53 AM Central Standard Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > Now, were they pusher fans, pullers, shrouded, manually controlled, > thermostatically controlled, or what? I would think that they would be pulling for the cars. If they were pushing them it would be toward the scrap yard. And then off to the pub to let off steam. Dave From steven at newellboys.com Mon Nov 19 08:02:14 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:02:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Relative values (flies) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4741A576.9070600@newellboys.com> tom white wrote: >I personally have a similar V-8 conversion in my TR3A. The differences are my >motor is hot to the touch before you start it... The car is a wonderful ride... >I consider the TR3A seats more comfortable than my T-Birds seats, and it >attracts women like flies to honey. > I also had a problem with flies in my Triumph. A careful search behind the seats turned up several banana peels and a half-eaten apple. You should probably make sure you don't have any fruit in your V-8. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 etc. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 19 08:18:25 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 07:18:25 -0800 Subject: [TR] Relative values (flies) In-Reply-To: <4741A576.9070600@newellboys.com> Message-ID: <20071119151824.QVAG22798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > You should probably make sure you don't > have any fruit in your V-8. Darn ! Now I've got to mop up the breakfast I just sprayed on the monitor ! Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 19 08:15:47 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 07:15:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071119151546.DNMM6315.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Not all were 4x4, IIRC. These outmoded cars, some from > Fiat-based designs, were the subject of more jokes than all, > bar Skodas. They had their fans though, and price was their > best feature. Wow! According to Wiki, the classic Lada is one of the most produced cars in the world; and is still being produced. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lada ISTR it had a conventional belt-driven fan; but I only saw one once, and that was long ago and far away. Oh yeah, here it is http://ladaparts.ru/riva/2104/a630.jpg Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Nov 19 08:12:19 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 15:12:19 -0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 References: <001801c82ab4$6bcb8900$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <042301c82abe$94a62b50$0201a8c0@Bevan> Michael Marr wrote: > Now, were they pusher fans, pullers, shrouded, manually controlled, > thermostatically controlled, or what? And did they continue to run after > the Lada was shut off? Or am I confusing this with another recent thread? Michael, I drove a Lada Cossack (4x4) for a day - and it seemed like a year. It was OK and not dis-similar in comfort terms to a Series 2 heavy duty Landrover going over rocks at speed. I'd forgotten the Lada car and yes, a clone of the Fiat 124. As to the finer points of specification, I'm sure Lada enthusiasts (are there any?) will agree the fan was belt driven and both sucked and blowed depending on the flexing of the blades. There wasn't any oil in the dashpot 'cos there wasn't one, the electrics were worse than Lucas and genuine examples of Kutchakokoff Lighting Industries but I never got round to seeing how you loosened the front crank pulley nut.... Door clearances were 'sufficient' (and followed a strictly Triumph pattern in that respect). Body side badges were upside down, downside up and also at differering locations on the trailing edges of the front wings. Paintwork wise, the engine and inner side of the rear tailgate were varying shades of flat black, gloss black, semi flat black, semi gloss black and Ford Mondeo Silver metallic - but I think that was on the rear tailpipe. Jonmac PS Those in the know tell me you got a free workshop hammer and a sickle for keeping the garden trim, plus a lifetime's supply of Borscht (Beetroot soup) if you ordered the de-luxe version. From steven at newellboys.com Mon Nov 19 08:30:25 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:30:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Relative values (flies) In-Reply-To: <20071119151824.QVAG22798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20071119151824.QVAG22798.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <4741AC11.9020803@newellboys.com> Randall wrote: >Darn ! Now I've got to mop up the breakfast I just sprayed on the monitor ! > We all contribute to the best of our abilities. Some provide technical knowledge and experience. Others, clean-up opportunities... Steven From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Nov 19 08:31:27 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 15:31:27 -0000 Subject: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? Message-ID: <042901c82ac1$40ca17a0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Sorry to bother you guys with such an elementary question but this comes from the UK where we're running one half metric and one half imperial measurements. Can someone please tell me the size of a conventional piece of paper (e.g. letterhead) that you use in your printers in the US? In inches please.... Am I right in thinking it's something like 8.5 x 11 inches? Thanks Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation... and - okay, all other makes of LBC Iron too! From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Nov 19 08:39:58 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 15:39:58 -0000 Subject: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? References: <042901c82ac1$40ca17a0$0201a8c0@Bevan> <1AD947DE-D4DA-4166-954A-2B87C5318554@ipns.com> Message-ID: <044401c82ac2$7192fea0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Cheers, Guys. Many thanks! Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darrell Walker" To: "John Macartney" Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:34 PM Subject: Re: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? > > Hi John, > > I'm sure you will get lots of replies, but standard US Letter paper > is 8.5 x 11 inches. > > -Darrell > > On Nov 19, 2007, at 7:31 AM, John Macartney wrote: > >> Sorry to bother you guys with such an elementary question but this >> comes from the UK where we're >> running one half metric and one half imperial measurements. Can >> someone please tell me the size of a >> conventional piece of paper (e.g. letterhead) that you use in your >> printers in the US? In inches >> please.... Am I right in thinking it's something like 8.5 x 11 inches? >> >> Thanks >> Jonmac >> >> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 >> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk >> >> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation... >> and - okay, all other makes of LBC Iron too! >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From steven at newellboys.com Mon Nov 19 08:50:14 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:50:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Relative values (safety) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4741B0B6.3070804@newellboys.com> ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote: >Do I ever feel less than "safe" in the Herald? Sure...every time some mindless >idiot multi-tasking in an oversize SUV or pickup fills my rearview mirror. > Most of us have probably heard something like "don't you worry about driving that little car on the road with all the SUVs and trucks out there?" Usually I retort "I know you are, but what am I?" only to come up with a good answer several hours later. Here's my best answer so far. I'm going to ask in return "don't you worry about the damage your large SUV would do to ANYONE you hit in an accident?" Seems if you're driving a vehicle more likely to kill anyone you hit, you ought to drive with the greatest care and focus. Now sometimes it seems most SUV drivers are less skilled, careful or focused -- except for me in my SUV. But if more drivers thought about their responsibility instead of their prerogatives, I think the roads would be a lot safer. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 '92 Range Rover Classic '76 MB 240D '87 BMW 528e From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Nov 19 08:57:52 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 15:57:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <03e501c82a4c$1b4ef6a0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <111620071958.8659.473DF68100066FB9000021D322058863600B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net><473E072F.7000602@hfx.eastlink.ca> <4740E353.3010107@earthlink.net> <03e501c82a4c$1b4ef6a0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: Having spend a lot of time in Russia I have ridden in many Ladas. The Lada is basically a Russian Fiat. They are notoriously unreliable. They are so numerous that parts are available everywhere. I have seen rusted out sedans trying to pass over the double yellow line so often it seems like a Russian rite of passage. When I need a ride over there I "hitch hike" and the odds on bet is I will get a ride in a Lada. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the im Initiative now. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGLM From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Nov 19 09:00:20 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 16:00:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] Backfiring! Help! In-Reply-To: <4740F619.4040502@optonline.net> References: <4740E5D1.4010407@earthlink.net> <4740F619.4040502@optonline.net> Message-ID: My car began backfiring when the battery got too low. It seems the Pertronix will not fire properly if the battery is too low. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate. Join in. www.windowslive.com/smile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_oprsmilewlhmtagline From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Nov 19 09:00:40 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 16:00:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] Backfiring! Help! In-Reply-To: <4740F619.4040502@optonline.net> References: <4740E5D1.4010407@earthlink.net> <4740F619.4040502@optonline.net> Message-ID: My car began backfiring when the battery got too low. It seems the Pertronix will not fire properly if the battery is too low. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live.Download today it's FREE! http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_sharelife_112007 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Nov 19 09:01:25 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 16:01:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] Backfiring! Help! In-Reply-To: <4740F619.4040502@optonline.net> References: <4740E5D1.4010407@earthlink.net> <4740F619.4040502@optonline.net> Message-ID: My car began backfiring when the battery got too low. It seems the Pertronix will not fire properly if the battery is too low. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista. + Windows Live. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_M ediaCtr_bigscreen_102007 From 308gtsi at adelphia.net Mon Nov 19 09:15:39 2007 From: 308gtsi at adelphia.net (Brian Induni) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:15:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Backfiring! Help! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <006c01c82ac7$6dc5b0b0$0301a8c0@Induninwlaptop> I've seen a faulty coil cause similar symptoms. Best diagnosis procedure is to try one thing at a time - start with a NEW (not one off the "spare parts" shelf...) coil and recheck the timing. Set the static timing manually - #1 @ TDC and set the disti to fire at that point. If backfiring thru the intake, then the timing is too far advanced. Don't rely on a strobe! Then check the plug wires -if there's cross talk, they could be firing at wrong times. My 2 shilings... Brian 1967 TR4a ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:42:49 -0500 From: Joe Burlein Subject: Re: [TR] Backfiring! Help! To: Mitch , Triumph List Message-ID: <474192D9.9000808 at earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Mitch wrote: > Hi Joe, > > To get a better idea of the problem more info is needed. > Does it backfire under load, if so when hot or cold. Originally under load and when cold, now under idle conditions. > Is it back firing through the intake or exhaust? Intake > Did you put points in and eliminate the electronic ignition? Not yet, she won't even idle now. This was going to be the next thing I did as far as troubleshooting before the backfiring at idle happended. > What do the plugs look like? Fine, but, they are new. The old ones had the normal color range. > What does your vacuum gauge read. If are speaking of the PSI gauge, then 0. > If you have an 02 sensor with a fuel/air mixture what does that read. N/A, sorry. > Did this occur after any changes? No. > Any other symptoms, hunting or surging idle, hard starting, > hesitation, stumbling. The only symptom I had before the backfiring was a cut out at high RPM and hard acceleration. That was what made me start to question (after checking plugs, timing, car leaks, vacuum leaks) the Pertronix. I just never got around to swapping it out. Thanks for the help Mitch. Joe > > -- > Mitch Seff > Oceanside, N.Y. > 75 TR6 SC > http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From Lbc.Resto at comcast.net Mon Nov 19 09:21:54 2007 From: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net (Ian) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 11:21:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? In-Reply-To: <044401c82ac2$7192fea0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <042901c82ac1$40ca17a0$0201a8c0@Bevan><1AD947DE-D4DA-4166-954A-2B87C5318554@ipns.com> <044401c82ac2$7192fea0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <007201c82ac8$4d34a260$0302a8c0@RAS> While we are doing metric conversions, just how long is a piece of string? -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:40 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Darrell Walker Subject: Re: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? Cheers, Guys. Many thanks! Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darrell Walker" To: "John Macartney" Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:34 PM Subject: Re: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? > > Hi John, > > I'm sure you will get lots of replies, but standard US Letter paper > is 8.5 x 11 inches. > > -Darrell > > On Nov 19, 2007, at 7:31 AM, John Macartney wrote: > >> Sorry to bother you guys with such an elementary question but this >> comes from the UK where we're >> running one half metric and one half imperial measurements. Can >> someone please tell me the size of a >> conventional piece of paper (e.g. letterhead) that you use in your >> printers in the US? In inches >> please.... Am I right in thinking it's something like 8.5 x 11 inches? >> >> Thanks >> Jonmac >> >> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 >> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk >> >> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation... >> and - okay, all other makes of LBC Iron too! >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 19 09:29:34 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:29:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? In-Reply-To: <007201c82ac8$4d34a260$0302a8c0@RAS> Message-ID: <20071119162932.IPSJ6315.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > While we are doing metric conversions, just how long is a > piece of string? They come in two lengths : way too long and not quite long enough. Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Nov 19 09:29:00 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 10:29:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 References: <001801c82ab4$6bcb8900$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> <042301c82abe$94a62b50$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <002f01c82ac9$4b634850$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: "Michael Marr" ; ; Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 9:12 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 > Michael, I drove a Lada Cossack (4x4) for a day - and it seemed like a > year. It was OK and not dis-similar in comfort terms to a Series 2 heavy > duty Landrover going over rocks at speed. I'd forgotten the Lada car and > yes, a clone of the Fiat 124. > As to the finer points of specification, I'm sure Lada enthusiasts (are > there any?) will agree the fan was belt driven and both sucked and blowed > depending on the flexing of the blades. There wasn't any oil in the > dashpot 'cos there wasn't one, the electrics were worse than Lucas and > genuine examples of Kutchakokoff Lighting Industries but I never got round > to seeing how you loosened the front crank pulley nut.... > Door clearances were 'sufficient' (and followed a strictly Triumph pattern > in that respect). Body side badges were upside down, downside up and also > at differering locations on the trailing edges of the front wings. > Paintwork wise, the engine and inner side of the rear tailgate were > varying shades of flat black, gloss black, semi flat black, semi gloss > black and Ford Mondeo Silver metallic - but I think that was on the rear > tailpipe. > > Jonmac > Oh, so you have a Lada experience with this vehicle. Mike From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Mon Nov 19 09:40:39 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:40:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Relative values In-Reply-To: <001c01c82a50$fc304030$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5BA@mail2.sr.local> Actually Jim that was Keaton's line and it was "Lah Dee Dah, Lah Dee Dah!" Deano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Marr Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 6:08 PM To: Joe Burlein; bobannand Cc: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] Relative values ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Burlein" To: "bobannand" Cc: "TR List" Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 7:13 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Relative values > What the heck is a Lada? > It's a quote from Woody Allen's "Annie Hall". "Oh, Lada-da, Lada-da." Sorry, Jim Muller... Mike _ From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Nov 19 09:57:01 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 10:57:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] Relative values References: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5BA@mail2.sr.local> Message-ID: <007701c82acd$3567da80$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> First, I made the original joke, not Jim Muller. My comment: "Sorry, Jim Muller," was made because Jim likes puns and this wasn't a particularly good one. But that's the point - it was a pun, a play on words. In order to make that pun, I would have had to be aware of the original quote, right? Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paige, Dean" To: "Michael Marr" ; "Joe Burlein" ; "bobannand" Cc: "TR List" Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:40 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Relative values Actually Jim that was Keaton's line and it was "Lah Dee Dah, Lah Dee Dah!" Deano From pethier at comcast.net Mon Nov 19 10:22:00 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 17:22:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 Message-ID: <111920071722.27253.4741C6380004876600006A7522070215739D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > forgotten the Lada car and yes, a clone of the Fiat 124. I'm pretty sure there was a FWD one also, a FIAT 128 made under license. I think I saw them in the movie GORKY PARK. I am told that the Ladas were build with cheap steel that was thicker than the high-strength steel used in the FIAT originals. Also, the Ladas had drum brakes because it was thought that Soviet mechanics would be unfamiliar with disk brakes. I do not know which ones were fitted with Wankel engines for police cars because the Militiamen could not catch civilians when their Ladas were no faster than the civilians' Ladas. The Wankel-equipped Ladas were quite a bit faster than the standard ones. I imagine they were pretty scary. The engines apparently were not Mazda engines, but were built under license from Wankel. A different FIAT was produced as the Yugo and unfortunately sold in the USA. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From dkspence at telus.net Mon Nov 19 10:29:41 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 10:29:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] What the heck is a Lada? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: More than you want to know! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lada Lada Riva: Based on a 1966 FIAT 124. Suspension raised and strengthened for Soviet roads. The NIVA 4 x 4 was tested by Canada Track & Traffic and described as unstoppable. It would go where Jeeps and Gimmys dare not go. The Lada Samara is an economy car produced by Soviet automaker AvtoVAZ from 1984 until 2004. Porsche engineers were involved in tuning the engine. images: http://images.google.com/images? q=Lada&ndsp=18&svnum=10&um=1&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&start=0&sa=N From dkspence at telus.net Mon Nov 19 10:33:24 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 10:33:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] how long is a piece of string? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Long enough to go around once and be tied. > > While we are doing metric conversions, just how long is a piece of > string? > > -- > Ian > 62 TR4 From elangtr4 at aol.com Mon Nov 19 10:35:56 2007 From: elangtr4 at aol.com (elangtr4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 12:35:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values (safety) Message-ID: <8C9F8E9C67FD4DF-488-147D@Webmail-mg09.sysops.aol.com> Steven, That's a great reply. I frequently get asked that question too, especially since my daily driver is an 06 Mini Cooper. I usually say I'm trying to be as small a target as possible. Although a friend refers to my car as a "medium" as he own's a 1973 Mini. Eric Langreder 71 TR6 ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From motorcarriage at charter.net Mon Nov 19 10:42:35 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 12:42:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 References: <111920071722.27253.4741C6380004876600006A7522070215739D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <009f01c82ad3$92251930$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> I think the Wankel Engines would of had to have been licensed by NSU. They were the ones who owned the rights that the old Mazdas were licensed from. Mazda probably bought the rights to license others since though. When we had the NSU franchise they had the Wankle Spyder and the RO80 Sedan in the 60-early 70's. Cheers, Wayne Lee 58 TR3 64 TR4 75 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "John Macartney" ; "Michael Marr" ; ; Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 12:22 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 " The Wankel-equipped Ladas were quite a bit faster than the standard ones. I imagine they were pretty scary. The engines apparently were not Mazda engines, but were built under license from Wankel." From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Nov 19 10:55:14 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 11:55:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 References: <111920071722.27253.4741C6380004876600006A7522070215739D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> <009f01c82ad3$92251930$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Message-ID: <001801c82ad5$57134360$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Wayne Lee wrote: >I think the Wankel Engines would of had to have been licensed by NSU. They > were the ones who owned the rights that the old Mazdas were licensed from. > Mazda probably bought the rights to license others since though. When we > had > the NSU franchise they had the Wankle Spyder and the RO80 Sedan in the > 60-early 70's. I always thought the Ro80 was a really nice looking car, but I guess it had reliability problems with rotor seals, like many of the early Wankels. It's referenced in the following article - I particularly like the caption to the picture! http://www.austin-rover.co.uk/index.htm?welosef.htm Mike From als6point9 at gmail.com Mon Nov 19 11:32:16 2007 From: als6point9 at gmail.com (Al Al) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 12:32:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] What the heck is a Lada? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I was never a big fan of these cars when I lived in England except for the fact that they were seriously cheap and had some serious metal on them. You would need a commercial jig to pull a dent out. I've seen them in accidents and other cars would fold up before this cars would get a ding in them. Most of the UK cars went to Jamaica as Taxi's. On Nov 19, 2007 11:29 AM, Don Spence wrote: > More than you want to know! > > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lada > > Lada Riva: Based on a 1966 FIAT 124. Suspension raised and > strengthened for Soviet roads. > > The NIVA 4 x 4 was tested by Canada Track & Traffic and described as > unstoppable. It would go where Jeeps and Gimmys dare not go. > > The Lada Samara is an economy car produced by Soviet automaker > AvtoVAZ from 1984 until 2004. Porsche engineers were involved > > in tuning the engine. > > > > > images: > > http://images.google.com/images? > q=Lada&ndsp=18&svnum=10&um=1&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&start=0&sa=N > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Nov 19 11:55:24 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 13:55:24 EST Subject: [TR] Relative values Message-ID: Thanks Wayne. Mike Moore ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From lherault at bu.edu Mon Nov 19 12:27:39 2007 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 14:27:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] a piece of string Message-ID: <004d01c82ae2$42c5bd90$90d4299b@ad.bu.edu> How long is a piece of string? Twice the distance from the middle to one end. And before anyone else asks how far can a dog run into the woods, I'll tell you that he can only run half way in because after that he is running out of the woods. Ron (I've got a million of 'em) L '73 TR6 From Lbc.Resto at comcast.net Mon Nov 19 12:49:22 2007 From: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net (Ian) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 14:49:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] a piece of string In-Reply-To: <004d01c82ae2$42c5bd90$90d4299b@ad.bu.edu> References: <004d01c82ae2$42c5bd90$90d4299b@ad.bu.edu> Message-ID: <007a01c82ae5$488a4e00$0302a8c0@RAS> Only if the woods are perfectly round. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron L Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 2:28 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] a piece of string How long is a piece of string? Twice the distance from the middle to one end. And before anyone else asks how far can a dog run into the woods, I'll tell you that he can only run half way in because after that he is running out of the woods. Ron (I've got a million of 'em) L '73 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From kentshrack at yahoo.com Mon Nov 19 13:02:35 2007 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 12:02:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] length of string - long Message-ID: <28590.47589.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Off the string subject, but here's one: If there is a string tied tight around a basketball, and a string tied tight around a sphere the size of the earth, and if you add a little over 3 feet of string to each one (the basketball string and the earth string), and if you evenly space the string around each object, Which is closer? The distance from the string to the basket ball, ~or~ the distance from the string to the earth. If you follow all of that, you'll be surprised at the answer. --------------------------------- Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now. From pethier at comcast.net Mon Nov 19 13:21:19 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 20:21:19 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 Message-ID: <111920072021.17075.4741F03F00049DAE000042B322028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Wayne Lee" > I think the Wankel Engines would of had to have been licensed by NSU. It was reported at the time that it was Wankel themselves, who existed as a separate entity, granting licences to car, snowmobile and motorcyle makers. I'm guessing that this was a successor entitiy to the NSU setup. This may or may not be the company known as Wankel AG. http://www.wankel-ag.de From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Mon Nov 19 13:40:26 2007 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 21:40:26 +0100 Subject: [TR] length of string - long In-Reply-To: <28590.47589.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: This really surprised me, as I was nearly sure that the 'earth string' would have been closer. They both have the same distance, don't they? Eric Heinsberg/Germany http://brits-n-pieces.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kent Shrack Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 9:03 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] length of string - long Off the string subject, but here's one: If there is a string tied tight around a basketball, and a string tied tight around a sphere the size of the earth, and if you add a little over 3 feet of string to each one (the basketball string and the earth string), and if you evenly space the string around each object, Which is closer? The distance from the string to the basket ball, ~or~ the distance from the string to the earth. If you follow all of that, you'll be surprised at the answer. From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Nov 19 13:43:47 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 15:43:47 EST Subject: [TR] a piece of string Message-ID: In a message dated 11/19/2007 1:28:18 PM Central Standard Time, lherault at bu.edu writes: > How long is a piece of string? Twice the distance from the middle to one > end. And before anyone else asks how far can a dog run into the woods, I'll > tell you that he can only run half way in because after that he is running > out of the woods. > > Ron (I've got a million of 'em) L > Is one of them "If a man says somethign in the forest and his wife is not there to hear him, is he still wrong?" Dave From motorcarriage at charter.net Mon Nov 19 13:47:57 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 15:47:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wankel History was Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 References: <111920072021.17075.4741F03F00049DAE000042B322028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00db01c82aed$77455f70$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> I think the first paragraph of this page explains the history better than I can. I remembered seeing the early Mazda RX-3's and the early RX-7's with the licensing info under the hood. It was in all the NSU brochures of the time as their bragging rights.evidently still named as the license issuers today though they're no more. NSU is well know as joint pioneer and the first Auto to have one. http://cp_www.tripod.com/rotary/pg05.htm Cheers, Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Wayne Lee" ; "Triumph List" Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:21 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 > From: "Wayne Lee" >> I think the Wankel Engines would of had to have been licensed by NSU. > > It was reported at the time that it was Wankel themselves, who existed as > a separate entity, granting licences to car, snowmobile and motorcyle > makers. I'm guessing that this was a successor entitiy to the NSU setup. > This may or may not be the company known as Wankel AG. > http://www.wankel-ag.de From motorcarriage at charter.net Mon Nov 19 14:13:37 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 16:13:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 References: <111920072021.17075.4741F03F00049DAE000042B322028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00fe01c82af1$0d8bcd90$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Phil, Here's something on the Russian Rotaries evidently counterfiet: Not very surprising. http://www.rotaryaviation.com/rotaryhistory.htm Quote From: "One of the most mysterious Wankel programs started behind the Iron Curtain during Cold War days: that of the Soviet/Russian automaker VAZ (now Avtovaz) of Togliattigrad. VAZ began building Fiats under license as Zhigulis 30 years ago; they have been sold as Ladas in the West. The Russians expressed interest in the rotary in the '60s and sent technicians to NSU in Neckarsulm, West Germany, in 1974. VAZ began development in 1976 and in late 1980 came an announcement of a limited-edition 2-rotor Lada." "The D-200 may not be legally marketable in the West. I have found no evidence that VAZ or any other Soviet entity got a license from NSU/Wankel in the '70s. Despite mentions of rotary Ladas, no specs for any Soviet vehicle with a Wankel ever appeared in any of the standard reference sources such as World Cars. Believe me, I've looked. I have searched Russian books on vehicles and engines, including Russian-language Zhiguli repair manuals, at the huge Victor Kamkin bookstore in Maryland but have found absolutely no reference to VAZ's rotary efforts--though aside from licensing issues, the KGB and military uses may also have mandated keeping them secret." End Quote: Cheers, Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Wayne Lee" ; "Triumph List" Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:21 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 > From: "Wayne Lee" >> I think the Wankel Engines would of had to have been licensed by NSU. Phil Wrote: > It was reported at the time that it was Wankel themselves, who existed as > >a separate entity, granting licences to car, snowmobile and motorcyle > >makers. I'm guessing that this was a successor entitiy to the NSU setup. > >This may or may not be the company known as Wankel AG. > >http://www.wankel-ag.de From jgillis at tcd.ie Mon Nov 19 15:38:42 2007 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 22:38:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] water at stud?? Message-ID: <50197F4D-8EB5-413B-8A7C-F5934B5F8EFD@tcd.ie> Hi all, running my TR2 engine again, for about 15mins this time, and having a good look round. I noticed bubbles of water rising up from between the nut and the thread of the centre head stud on the manifold side. A cause for concern or no? Regards John From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 19 16:01:08 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 15:01:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] water at stud?? In-Reply-To: <50197F4D-8EB5-413B-8A7C-F5934B5F8EFD@tcd.ie> References: <50197F4D-8EB5-413B-8A7C-F5934B5F8EFD@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <013301c82b00$122fdc60$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > running my TR2 engine again, for about 15mins this time, and > having a > good look round. I noticed bubbles of water rising up from > between the > nut and the thread of the centre head stud on the manifold side. A > cause for concern or no? Possibly, but I wouldn't tear it back down just yet. It may be you just managed to leave a few drops in the stud hole, or the gasket may eventually decide to seal. IMO, Retorque the head nuts & keep an eye on it. If it continues to weep, and you don't have other reasons to take it apart again, a little "stop leak" might help. Don't know what's available there, but I like the one sold here that looks like powdered aluminum (and called "Aluma-Seal"). BTW, I definitely recommend using at least 30% antifreeze, even if there is no chance of the engine freezing. Quality anti-freeze also contains essential anti-corrosion additives, plus a mild stop leak (that might solve the weeping). Randall From supertr6 at earthlink.net Mon Nov 19 16:48:48 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:48:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Backfiring! Help! In-Reply-To: References: <4740E5D1.4010407@earthlink.net> <4740F619.4040502@optonline.net> Message-ID: <474220E0.1010201@earthlink.net> Wow, that is a new one. I'll hook her up to the charger tonight. tom white wrote: > My car began backfiring when the battery got too low. It seems the > Pertronix will not fire properly if the battery is too low. > > Best regards, > Tom > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate. Join > in! From supertr6 at earthlink.net Mon Nov 19 16:52:46 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:52:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Backfiring! Help! In-Reply-To: <006c01c82ac7$6dc5b0b0$0301a8c0@Induninwlaptop> References: <006c01c82ac7$6dc5b0b0$0301a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <474221CE.50004@earthlink.net> Brian Induni wrote: > I've seen a faulty coil cause similar symptoms. Best diagnosis procedure is > to try one thing at a time - start with a NEW (not one off the "spare parts" > shelf...) coil and recheck the timing. Set the static timing manually - #1 @ > TDC and set the disti to fire at that point. OK, how do you properly do that? With a light, no problem. Without... > If backfiring thru the intake, > then the timing is too far advanced. Don't rely on a strobe! Then check the > plug wires -if there's cross talk, they could be firing at wrong times. My 2 > shilings... > > Brian > 1967 TR4a > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:42:49 -0500 > From: Joe Burlein > Subject: Re: [TR] Backfiring! Help! > To: Mitch , Triumph List > > Message-ID: <474192D9.9000808 at earthlink.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Mitch wrote: > >> Hi Joe, >> >> To get a better idea of the problem more info is needed. >> Does it backfire under load, if so when hot or cold. >> > Originally under load and when cold, now under idle conditions. > >> Is it back firing through the intake or exhaust? >> > Intake > >> Did you put points in and eliminate the electronic ignition? >> > Not yet, she won't even idle now. This was going to be the next thing I > did as far as troubleshooting before the backfiring at idle happended. > >> What do the plugs look like? >> > Fine, but, they are new. The old ones had the normal color range. > >> What does your vacuum gauge read. >> > If are speaking of the PSI gauge, then 0. > >> If you have an 02 sensor with a fuel/air mixture what does that read. >> > N/A, sorry. > >> Did this occur after any changes? >> > No. > >> Any other symptoms, hunting or surging idle, hard starting, >> hesitation, stumbling. >> > The only symptom I had before the backfiring was a cut out at high RPM > and hard acceleration. That was what made me start to question (after > checking plugs, timing, car leaks, vacuum leaks) the Pertronix. I just > never got around to swapping it out. > > Thanks for the help Mitch. > > Joe > >> >> -- >> Mitch Seff >> Oceanside, N.Y. >> 75 TR6 SC >> http://www.triumphowners.com/384 >> > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From wbeech at flash.net Mon Nov 19 17:38:01 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 17:38:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] water at stud?? In-Reply-To: <50197F4D-8EB5-413B-8A7C-F5934B5F8EFD@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <20071120003833.B7EBD187A2B@autox.team.net> John, Someone else had this issue just a few weeks ago, maybe can make some experienced suggestions. Best case, it is just water that got in the channel and is boiling off. Worst case, cracked block. If it does not boil off I would try some sealant on the bottom threads of the stud. Could be a small disfigurement in the head gasket or some bits of debris. If all looks good, loosen and re-torque everything. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:39 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] water at stud?? Hi all, running my TR2 engine again, for about 15mins this time, and having a good look round. I noticed bubbles of water rising up from between the nut and the thread of the centre head stud on the manifold side. A cause for concern or no? Regards John This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007 7:05 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007 7:05 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Nov 19 18:18:40 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 20:18:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Relative values (safety) In-Reply-To: <4741B0B6.3070804@newellboys.com> References: Message-ID: <4741EFA0.16585.1E223@localhost> On 19 Nov 2007 at 8:50, Steven Newell wrote: > But if more drivers thought about their > responsibility instead of their prerogatives,... A good thought for everything in life, not just for driving. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1137 - Release Date: 11/18/2007 5:15 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Nov 19 18:18:39 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 20:18:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] a piece of string In-Reply-To: <007a01c82ae5$488a4e00$0302a8c0@RAS> References: <004d01c82ae2$42c5bd90$90d4299b@ad.bu.edu> Message-ID: <4741EF9F.2517.1DD7B@localhost> On 19 Nov 2007 at 14:49, Ian wrote: > Only if the woods are perfectly round. Or if the woods are pointwise symmetric. Pre-condition: If the dog is not running in a straight line, the answer is indeterminate. As for the perfectly round woods, PI are round regardless of how much area the woods cover. Speaking of pi, specifically pumpkin, this is a good lead in to wish everyone a safe US Thanksgiving holiday. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1137 - Release Date: 11/18/2007 5:15 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Nov 19 18:18:40 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 20:18:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? In-Reply-To: <042901c82ac1$40ca17a0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <4741EFA0.31363.1DF7A@localhost> On 19 Nov 2007 at 15:31, John Macartney wrote: > Am I right in thinking it's something like 8.5 x 11 inches? Well, yes, but that's Colonial inches, not your regular Imperial inches. Just curious, has The Continent switched over from metric inches to euro-inches yet? They're always so slow to adapt. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1137 - Release Date: 11/18/2007 5:15 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Nov 19 18:18:41 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 20:18:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] a piece of string In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4741EFA1.23646.1E3D2@localhost> On 19 Nov 2007 at 15:43, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > "If a man says something in the forest and his wife is not > there to hear him, is he still wrong?" If a woman says something in the forest and there is no man there to hear it, does he still have to do it anyway? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1137 - Release Date: 11/18/2007 5:15 PM From jmitch at snet.net Mon Nov 19 19:42:59 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 21:42:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Re: Iridium tip spark plugs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <474249B3.2040907@snet.net> We'll, I did regap them, and it's running great now. Thanks for everyones help. John Mitchell John VanNorman wrote: > A little late on this, but I spoke with my cousin, who works for NGK > (was a sale's rep at one point). Here are some key things he said to > me about it: > > "iridium does make them last longer... but as far as energy the coil / > distributor is concerned... I haven't seen anything to suggest that > iridium is worse for that... in fact, I think our marketing claims > that it is better for spark energy... so... that being said, it would > take less energy to spark (aka saving the coil / distributor)." > > > "you can gap plugs... even the expensive Pt's or Iridiums... you just > have to be careful. Can you bust the ground electrode off?? yes... > but... you have to be bending it quite a bit... basically, you don't > want to scratch the electrodes or bust the platinum pad off the ground > electrode. I adjust plugs all the time (but I have been trained in > the long traditional Japanese secret art of gapping plugs). " > > John V. From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Nov 19 19:50:51 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 21:50:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lock Stop Adjustments Message-ID: <001e01c82b20$d5a86570$b994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> My TR3 does not get a steering wheel lock-to-lock of 2 1/4 turns which the workshop manual says it should. I spent the day ruling out other possible causes i.e. tie-rods, proper linkages, etc. The manual says that this canbe set with a wheel measuring device designed for angle readings. Is there a better device than using a protractor with markings on the ground to show 31 (or 33?) degrees deviation each direction of max. turn of steering wheel?? I am unsure what they mean by a front lock of 28.5 degrees and a back lock of 31 degrees. Can someone enlighten me? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 19 20:25:55 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 19:25:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] Lock Stop Adjustments In-Reply-To: <001e01c82b20$d5a86570$b994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071120032555.ZJTA2244.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > The manual says that this canbe set with a > wheel measuring device designed for angle readings. Is there > a better device than using a protractor with markings on the > ground to show 31 (or 33?) degrees deviation each direction > of max. turn of steering wheel?? IMO, just set them as wide as they will go and leave it at that. That's what I always did, until I wound up with a tire combination that would rub the sway bar, then I pulled them in until the tires just touched the bar. > I am unsure what they mean by a front lock of 28.5 degrees > and a back lock of > 31 degrees. Can someone enlighten me? Each wheel will turn farther away from the centerline, than towards it. IOW, the left wheel will turn farther left, and the right wheel will turn farther right. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Mon Nov 19 20:41:07 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 22:41:07 EST Subject: [TR] Lock Stop Adjustments Message-ID: After considering this very subject I decided to set the lock stop so that the peg on the rocker shaft would not jam into the end of the worm and kiss the whole thing goodbye. Works for me. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Nov 20 04:18:40 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 06:18:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] length of string - long In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000601c82b67$1b2b0850$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> The distance is 3/(2*pi) in both cases. circumference = pi * d circumference + 3 = pi * d + 3 = pi * (d + 3/pi) The diameter increases by 3/pi regardless of the starting diameter. But don't ask me to set my SU carbs................. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:40 PM To: 'Kent Shrack'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] length of string - long This really surprised me, as I was nearly sure that the 'earth string' would have been closer. They both have the same distance, don't they? Eric Heinsberg/Germany http://brits-n-pieces.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kent Shrack Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 9:03 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] length of string - long Off the string subject, but here's one: If there is a string tied tight around a basketball, and a string tied tight around a sphere the size of the earth, and if you add a little over 3 feet of string to each one (the basketball string and the earth string), and if you evenly space the string around each object, Which is closer? The distance from the string to the basket ball, ~or~ the distance from the string to the earth. If you follow all of that, you'll be surprised at the answer. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Nov 20 06:17:58 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 08:17:58 EST Subject: [TR] a piece of string Message-ID: In a message dated 11/19/2007 7:20:58 PM Central Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > If a woman says something in the forest and there is no man there to > hear it, does he still have to do it anyway? > Um, I'm sorry, did you say something? Dave From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Nov 20 09:48:04 2007 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 11:48:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] length of string - long In-Reply-To: <000601c82b67$1b2b0850$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> References: <000601c82b67$1b2b0850$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <59954CCF7B4B46389C0185ED2B13AAEF@CarlPC> Andrew - your formula is wrong: c= circumference c= pi * d is correct c +3 = (pi * d) +3 however your answer is correct - the diameter would increase by approximately 1 ft. your formula would have increased the diameter by 3ft. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: ; "'Kent Shrack'" ; Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 6:18 AM Subject: Re: [TR] length of string - long > The distance is 3/(2*pi) in both cases. > > circumference = pi * d > > circumference + 3 = pi * d + 3 > = pi * (d + 3/pi) > > The diameter increases by 3/pi regardless of the starting diameter. > > But don't ask me to set my SU carbs................. > > Andrew > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf > Of > Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) > Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:40 PM > To: 'Kent Shrack'; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] length of string - long > > This really surprised me, as I was nearly sure that the 'earth string' > would > have been closer. They both have the same distance, don't they? > > Eric > Heinsberg/Germany > http://brits-n-pieces.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf > Of Kent Shrack > Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 9:03 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] length of string - long > > Off the string subject, but here's one: If there is a string tied tight > around a basketball, and a string tied tight around a sphere the size of > the > earth, and if you add a little over 3 feet of string to each one (the > basketball string and the earth string), and if you evenly space the > string > around each object, Which is closer? The distance from the string to the > basket ball, ~or~ the distance from the string to the earth. > If you follow all of that, you'll be surprised at the answer. From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Nov 20 10:08:32 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 12:08:32 EST Subject: [TR] length of string - long Message-ID: Actually, Andrew had it right, too. You wrote: c +3 = (pi * d) +3 He wrote circumference + 3 = pi * d + 3 These are equivalent but yours is explicit whereas his is implicit and dependent on the rules of precedence. When evaluating his equation you perform the multiplication before the addition which is the same as what you spelled out with your parentheses. To avoid confusion your representation is preferred but either is correct. And his answer 3/pi is nearly equal to your one foot result. More accurate, in fact, but either is close enough for our purposes. Dave In a message dated 11/20/2007 10:50:34 AM Central Standard Time, cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: > Andrew - > your formula is wrong: > c= circumference > > c= pi * d is correct > > c +3 = (pi * d) +3 > > however your answer is correct - the diameter would increase by > approximately 1 ft. > your formula would have increased the diameter by 3ft. > > Carl > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Andrew Uprichard" > To: ; "'Kent Shrack'" > ; > Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 6:18 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] length of string - long > > > >The distance is 3/(2*pi) in both cases. > > > >circumference = pi * d > > > >circumference + 3 = pi * d + 3 > > = pi * (d + 3/pi) > > > >The diameter increases by 3/pi regardless of the starting diameter. From dkspence at telus.net Tue Nov 20 10:28:19 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 10:28:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <31E96526-9928-4E02-9338-DC6D0B8AC9DB@telus.net> John As you can tell from Jim's comment, Americans know very little about Imperial and Metric measurements. We here in Canada are by choice, Bilingual, and, when purchasing merchandise from the USA, Trilingual in terms of measurement literacy. Long ago we "switched over" from Imperial to Metric. The Americans chose not to, isolating themselves from the rest of the world, except for maybe you Brits but then again, you don't speak their language either. One of these days all of you will realize the significant benefits of going Metric. The 10 hour clock for instance. By switching to metric time one of our hours now equals 72 minutes of your time, which makes for a more enjoyable lunch break. Eight hours of sleep is equal to 9.6 of your hours so we are better rested and able to pack more living into our longer hours. All the better to enjoy a Liter of Lager ( 1.7 imperial or 2.1 US pints) down at the pub. Cheers On 20-Nov-07, at 9:49 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "Jim Muller" > Date: November 19, 2007 6:18:40 PM MST (CA) > To: > Subject: Re: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? > Reply-To: jimmuller at rcn.com > > > On 19 Nov 2007 at 15:31, John Macartney wrote: > >> Am I right in thinking it's something like 8.5 x 11 inches? > > Well, yes, but that's Colonial inches, not your regular Imperial > inches. > > Just curious, has The Continent switched over from metric inches to > euro-inches yet? They're always so slow to adapt. > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Tue Nov 20 10:35:48 2007 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 09:35:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] a piece of string Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD63B20@kb1.mossmotors.com> >If a woman says something in the forest and there is no man there to >hear it, does he still have to do it anyway? Any married man knows the answer, of course, is YES! Peter Arakelian From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Nov 20 10:47:49 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 17:47:49 +0000 Subject: [TR] length of string - long Message-ID: <112020071747.17791.47431DC50000C3660000457F22070016410B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Let us say there were only ever 2 models of tr made: the TR2 and the TR3 Joe and Bob both have two TRs Joe says, "my first car was a TR3" Bob says, "one of my cars is a TR3" Which is more likely to have two TR3s ? Andrew -------------- Original message -------------- From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Actually, Andrew had it right, too. > > You wrote: c +3 = (pi * d) +3 > > He wrote circumference + 3 = pi * d + 3 > > These are equivalent but yours is explicit whereas his is implicit and > dependent on the rules of precedence. When evaluating his equation you perform > the > multiplication before the addition which is the same as what you spelled out > with your parentheses. To avoid confusion your representation is preferred but > either is correct. > > And his answer 3/pi is nearly equal to your one foot result. More accurate, > in fact, but either is close enough for our purposes. > > Dave > > In a message dated 11/20/2007 10:50:34 AM Central Standard Time, > cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: > > Andrew - > > your formula is wrong: > > c= circumference > > > > c= pi * d is correct > > > > c +3 = (pi * d) +3 > > > > however your answer is correct - the diameter would increase by > > approximately 1 ft. > > your formula would have increased the diameter by 3ft. > > > > Carl > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Andrew Uprichard" > > To: ; "'Kent Shrack'" > > ; > > Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 6:18 AM > > Subject: Re: [TR] length of string - long > > > > > > >The distance is 3/(2*pi) in both cases. > > > > > >circumference = pi * d > > > > > >circumference + 3 = pi * d + 3 > > > = pi * (d + 3/pi) > > > > > >The diameter increases by 3/pi regardless of the starting diameter. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Nov 20 10:50:17 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 17:50:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] length of string - long Message-ID: <112020071750.13104.47431E590002B4830000333022070210530B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Oops - got it wronh - sorry. Bob actually says "at least one of my cars is a TR3" -------------- Original message -------------- From: auprichard at comcast.net > Let us say there were only ever 2 models of tr made: the TR2 and the TR3 > Joe and Bob both have two TRs > Joe says, "my first car was a TR3" > Bob says, "one of my cars is a TR3" > > Which is more likely to have two TR3s ? > > Andrew > > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > > > Actually, Andrew had it right, too. > > > > You wrote: c +3 = (pi * d) +3 > > > > He wrote circumference + 3 = pi * d + 3 > > > > These are equivalent but yours is explicit whereas his is implicit and > > dependent on the rules of precedence. When evaluating his equation you perform > > the > > multiplication before the addition which is the same as what you spelled out > > with your parentheses. To avoid confusion your representation is preferred but > > either is correct. > > > > And his answer 3/pi is nearly equal to your one foot result. More accurate, > > in fact, but either is close enough for our purposes. > > > > Dave > > > > In a message dated 11/20/2007 10:50:34 AM Central Standard Time, > > cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: > > > Andrew - > > > your formula is wrong: > > > c= circumference > > > > > > c= pi * d is correct > > > > > > c +3 = (pi * d) +3 > > > > > > however your answer is correct - the diameter would increase by > > > approximately 1 ft. > > > your formula would have increased the diameter by 3ft. > > > > > > Carl > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Andrew Uprichard" > > > To: ; "'Kent Shrack'" > > > ; > > > Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 6:18 AM > > > Subject: Re: [TR] length of string - long > > > > > > > > > >The distance is 3/(2*pi) in both cases. > > > > > > > >circumference = pi * d > > > > > > > >circumference + 3 = pi * d + 3 > > > > = pi * (d + 3/pi) > > > > > > > >The diameter increases by 3/pi regardless of the starting diameter. > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Nov 20 11:18:19 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 13:18:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] AON Collector Car Insurance Message-ID: <001201c82ba1$bc025e60$210110ac@bobspc> If anyone has their car insured with AON Collector Car Insurance be forewarned that they are no longer underwriting classic cars. And to make matters worse, they didn't even send me any written notification as such. I thought (bad move on my part) that my insurance with them came up for renewal around now so I just checked my insurance card. Wrong...it expired 10/1! I've been driving an un-insured car for 7 weeks now. A check of their web site shows them out of the classic car business. I just called their office and there's no answer or recording. Luckily the rest of my insurance is with AMICA which is a wonderful company and they immediately added my car. I still need to have the "agreed to value" vs "stated value" discussion but it was more important to get it covered now. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007 7:05 PM From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Tue Nov 20 11:56:52 2007 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (aldwyn at sylvancircle.org) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 13:56:52 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] AON Collector Car Insurance In-Reply-To: <001201c82ba1$bc025e60$210110ac@bobspc> References: <001201c82ba1$bc025e60$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <11257.192.193.220.144.1195585012.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org> Bob, I actually got notice from AON back in May or so that they were no longer going to be doing Classic Car insurance. Then I recieved a noticed from the company taking over their policies (cant remember the name) the second week of October with the new policy, and how much I owned... My insurance had already expired by then. Lucky for me, I had the heads up, and had just signed up for Haggerty. The new company that is taking over for AON keeps sending me overdue notices, though. :) - Aldwyn > If anyone has their car insured with AON Collector Car Insurance be > forewarned that they are no longer underwriting classic cars. And to make > matters worse, they didn't even send me any written notification as such. > I > thought (bad move on my part) that my insurance with them came up for > renewal around now so I just checked my insurance card. Wrong...it expired > 10/1! I've been driving an un-insured car for 7 weeks now. A check of > their > web site shows them out of the classic car business. I just called their > office and there's no answer or recording. Luckily the rest of my > insurance > is with AMICA which is a wonderful company and they immediately added my > car. I still need to have the "agreed to value" vs "stated value" > discussion > but it was more important to get it covered now. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: > 11/19/2007 > 7:05 PM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Tue Nov 20 11:58:37 2007 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 19:58:37 +0100 Subject: [TR] length of string - long In-Reply-To: <112020071750.13104.47431E590002B4830000333022070210530B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: That's an easy one. Bob! Because Joe says, that his first car WAS a TR3. This does not mean that the car still belongs to him. Bob clearly states that he has a TR3 right now. So the possibility of having 2 TR3s is on his side! Right? Eric Heinsberg/Germany http://brits-n-pieces.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of auprichard at comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 6:50 PM To: Dave1massey at cs.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] length of string - long Oops - got it wronh - sorry. Bob actually says "at least one of my cars is a TR3" -------------- Original message -------------- From: auprichard at comcast.net > Let us say there were only ever 2 models of tr made: the TR2 and the > TR3 Joe and Bob both have two TRs Joe says, "my first car was a TR3" > Bob says, "one of my cars is a TR3" > > Which is more likely to have two TR3s ? > > Andrew From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 20 12:17:55 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 11:17:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] length of string - long In-Reply-To: <112020071747.17791.47431DC50000C3660000457F22070016410B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> References: <112020071747.17791.47431DC50000C3660000457F22070016410B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <016201c82baa$0dcd9270$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Let us say there were only ever 2 models of tr made: the TR2 > and the TR3 > Joe and Bob both have two TRs > Joe says, "my first car was a TR3" > Bob says, "one of my cars is a TR3" > > Which is more likely to have two TR3s ? Define 'TR3'. Does a pile of every part contained in a TR3 count as a TR3 ? What if it's multiple piles ? How many parts can be missing ? It does make a difference, just ask Bill Clinton Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 20 12:24:43 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 11:24:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? In-Reply-To: <31E96526-9928-4E02-9338-DC6D0B8AC9DB@telus.net> References: <31E96526-9928-4E02-9338-DC6D0B8AC9DB@telus.net> Message-ID: <016301c82bab$0106e450$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > The 10 hour clock for instance. By switching to > metric time one of our hours now equals 72 minutes of your time, Nah, that doesn't work either, since now you have 2 of those per day. To be truly metric, you have to use milli-years, which are 8.7696 "old" hours long; and micro-years (31.57056 old seconds). Yes, that means the sun comes up at a different time every day, but it does that anyway. Can't "simplify" things without breaking a few eggs. Randall From pethier at comcast.net Tue Nov 20 12:31:25 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 19:31:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 360 Message-ID: <112020071931.11263.4743360D00093A5E00002BFF22134843739D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> The Soviet govenment lying about a license. Who wudda thunk it? I see the licensing outfit is now "Wankel Rotary GmbH". The model-airplane bit was pretty interesting -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Tue Nov 20 12:33:29 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 19:33:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lock Stop Adjustments Message-ID: <112020071933.17847.4743368900088054000045B722007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Randall" > Each wheel will turn farther away from the centerline, than towards it. > IOW, the left wheel will turn farther left, and the right wheel will turn > farther right. Hello Mr. Ackerman! From dkspence at telus.net Tue Nov 20 12:44:40 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 12:44:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] length of string - long In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8EBCAE05-9A9A-4B3E-AE4C-7D910B7DBB89@telus.net> Well that would be Joe except that Joe, having had experience with hisTR3 would know better and buy something else. On 20-Nov-07, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: Re: [TR] length of string - long > > > Let us say there were only ever 2 models of tr made: the TR2 and > the TR3 > Joe and Bob both have two TRs > Joe says, "my first car was a TR3" > Bob says, "one of my cars is a TR3" > > Which is more likely to have two TR3s ? > > Andrew From pethier at comcast.net Tue Nov 20 12:50:52 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 19:50:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] a piece of string Message-ID: <112020071950.14255.47433A9C00019EBF000037AF22007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Jim Muller" > this is > a good lead in to wish everyone a safe US Thanksgiving holiday. Yeah, because for Canadian Thanksgiving, you are just a bit late! -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Nov 20 13:50:02 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 20:50:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] length of string - long Message-ID: <112020072050.1380.4743487A0004C6E20000056422070016410B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> So if, as I meant to say, Bob says "at least one of my cars is a TR3", then there are three possibilities: two TR3s, a TR3 followed by a TR2, or a TR2 followed by a TR3 - so he has a 1:3 chance of having 2 TR3s. Joe's first car was a TR3, so he has only a 50% of having two TR3s. So the answer is Joe -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > Let us say there were only ever 2 models of tr made: the TR2 > > and the TR3 > > Joe and Bob both have two TRs > > Joe says, "my first car was a TR3" > > Bob says, "one of my cars is a TR3" > > > > Which is more likely to have two TR3s ? > > Define 'TR3'. Does a pile of every part contained in a TR3 count as a TR3 ? > What if it's multiple piles ? How many parts can be missing ? > > It does make a difference, just ask Bill Clinton > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Nov 20 14:58:05 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 16:58:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] 2 steering turns lock-to-lock good enuf for now! Message-ID: <009a01c82bc0$6f1d3740$b994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> The Workshop Manual for the TR3 says it ought to be 2 1/4 turns lock-to-lock for my steering wheel. After properly setting the length of my Tie Rods, double checking that everything's in its rightful position, I am able only able to achieve 2 revolutions. For now at least, I am ok with that. However, I'll have to say that It was weird that by making an extreme turn of the steering wheel to the left, resulted in having the rotor pointing 1-2" less than when the same thing is done for the extreme right. Upon investigating all the suspension/steering at this point, no parts, nor bolts were making contact inappropriate ! However by turning it to the right, the lock stop properly halted all turning. I repeat, the left side's lock stop never contacted anything, the leftest turn of the left rotor was halted about an inch shorter. If required, I will pick up this issue later as 2 steering wheel turns seem adequate for now. All of the above was done with the car jacked up and both wheels were off the ground, the front apron also was off making adjustments easier. Now that I think about it, the rocker peg might be inserted 1 worm revolution shorter, which MIGHT account for the 1/4 steering wheel turn to the left not being reached. I hope my methods have been adequate. I think Im ok with it for now, thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Nov 20 15:10:09 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 17:10:09 EST Subject: [TR] length of string - long Message-ID: In a message dated 11/20/2007 11:51:58 AM Central Standard Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: > Let us say there were only ever 2 models of tr made: the TR2 and the TR3 There are people who hold to this philosophy > Joe and Bob both have two TRs > Joe says, "my first car was a TR3" > Bob says, "At least one of my cars is a TR3" > > Which is more likely to have two TR3s ? I'd have to say Bob. Joe probably has 3. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Nov 20 15:05:32 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 17:05:32 EST Subject: [TR] a piece of string Message-ID: In a message dated 11/20/2007 11:35:54 AM Central Standard Time, arakelianp at mossmotors.com writes: > >If a woman says something in the forest and there is no man there to > >hear it, does he still have to do it anyway? > > Any married man knows the answer, of course, is YES! > Heck. She doesn't actually have to even say it. Just thinking of saying it qualifies. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 20 15:37:29 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 14:37:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] 2 steering turns lock-to-lock good enuf for now! In-Reply-To: <009a01c82bc0$6f1d3740$b994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <009a01c82bc0$6f1d3740$b994df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <017401c82bc5$ef18a2e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > However, I'll have to say that It was weird that by > making an extreme turn > of the steering wheel to the left, resulted in having the > rotor pointing 1-2" > less than when the same thing is done for the extreme right. Upon > investigating all the suspension/steering at this point, no > parts, nor bolts > were making contact inappropriate ! Almost certainly, that means the Pitman arm is not installed correctly onto the rocker shaft. With the box centered, the Pitman arm is supposed to point off to the side a bit, not straight along the tube. > Now that > I think about it, the rocker peg might be inserted 1 worm > revolution shorter, Nope, wouldn't do it. If that were the case, you could just turn the worm that extra revolution to get it centered. > I hope my methods have been adequate. As I recall, the book warns against turning the worm until the peg reaches the end of the slot. I'm not sure exactly why, but I would guess that the potentially extreme force against the peg/worm can lead to damage. Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Nov 20 16:22:26 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 23:22:26 -0000 Subject: [TR] Happy Thanksgiving Day Message-ID: <007501c82bcc$36687fc0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Just our very best wishes from those of in the 'olde countrye' to ye in the 'newe countrye' for this coming Thursday. With the benefit of that old friend hindsight, I suppose it's a good thing in some ways that a few of us stayed behind. If we hadn't, none of you would have had Triumphs to drive, Lucas electrics to ponder - or somewhere to come on vacation - IF anyone can afford to come to the UK. And that includes those of us who live here :) Cheers all, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation... and - okay, all other makes of LBC Iron too! From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 20 17:27:55 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 19:27:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? In-Reply-To: <31E96526-9928-4E02-9338-DC6D0B8AC9DB@telus.net> References: Message-ID: <4743353B.27014.2F3BC3@localhost> On 20 Nov 2007 at 10:28, Don Spence wrote: > One of these days all of you will realize the significant > benefits of going Metric. The 10 hour clock for instance. Actually, Don, we are ahead of you. The entire decimal thing is an unfortunate evolutionary diversion. Biologists at MIT are working on the genetic modifications necessary (16 fingers) so we can count in hex. Alas, at this time we are only capable of octal. But at least that's easy because we can all be retrofitted to 8 without having to resort to genetics. It must be a good idea. Every so often my cars take it upon themselves to do that modification to me. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007 7:05 PM From DLylis at aol.com Tue Nov 20 18:48:04 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 20:48:04 EST Subject: [TR] 2 steering turns lock-to-lock good enuf for now! Message-ID: In a message dated 11/20/2007 5:37:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Almost certainly, that means the Pitman arm is not installed correctly onto the rocker shaft. With the box centered, the Pitman arm is supposed to point off to the side a bit, not straight along the tube. The arm is supposed to be 3 degrees off a right angle to the steering tube, toward the tube . David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From DLylis at aol.com Tue Nov 20 18:58:15 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 20:58:15 EST Subject: [TR] Lock Stop Adjustments Message-ID: In a message dated 11/20/2007 8:41:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, dorpaul at negia.net writes: Also, I've been doing all of this adjustment with the front jacked up and wheels off. Is that ok? Paul, Although I am certainly not the authority on this, I do know that your steering geometry is not correct with the wheel hanging off the suspension unladen. The manual indicates that this adjustment should be done with the weight on the wheels with the front wheels sitting on a platen that indicates the degrees from straight ahead; in other words, an alignment machine. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Tue Nov 20 19:23:44 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 19:23:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed Message-ID: Thanks to everyone how send me email on my failed alternator. I decided to follow Joe Curry and Randall's advice and I now have a 55 amp alternator in the TR6 tonight. Both recommended a 78-80 Ford Fiesta with A/C Bosch unit. It bolted right in, same cable connectors. Only minor issue was the fan(?) on the pulley just touched the washer and bolt on the adjustment arm. I removed the middle washer from between the bracket and the alternator and all was well. Volts read 13.9 at 1,500 RPM. Once again the list get me back on the road. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 20 19:50:25 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 18:50:25 -0800 Subject: [TR] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01c82be9$448d1490$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Thanks to everyone how send me email on my failed alternator. > I decided to > follow Joe Curry and Randall's advice and I now have a 55 amp > alternator in > the TR6 tonight. Both Hey, somebody mark their calendars ! Joe and I actually agreed on something !! We'll probably both get snowed on tonight Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 20 20:25:57 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 22:25:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed In-Reply-To: <000e01c82be9$448d1490$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: Message-ID: <47435EF5.27847.D2382C@localhost> On 20 Nov 2007 at 18:50, Randall wrote: > Hey, somebody mark their calendars ! Joe and I actually agreed on > something !! > > We'll probably both get snowed on tonight He! Why not? We got snowed on today. O' course, we don't live in the desert sou'west. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007 7:05 PM From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Nov 20 21:11:59 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 23:11:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 timing Chain Tensioner Question Message-ID: <004801c82bf4$ac0dcfa0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Having now completed the tear down, and having got some of the mechanicals organized, I was looking at the "odd bits and pieces" still to be dealt with, and have come across some references to a need to improve the timing chain tensioner ... and I can see why! The standard bit of bent spring steel doesn't inspire any confidence! Surely there has to be a better way of providing tension? I seem to recall from my experiences with UK 4 cylinder engines (mostly Ford or Lotus-Ford 4) that spring-loaded hard rubber blocks were the norm, and that you could increase the tension to hold timing at the cost of more frequent timing cover tear downs). Is there anything better out there, or am I worrying unnecessarily? ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From cole.jw at comcast.net Tue Nov 20 21:25:04 2007 From: cole.jw at comcast.net (Jerry Cole) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 20:25:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] Going To See My Baby References: Message-ID: <001601c82bf6$7df13c90$ba00a8c0@Belen> Thanks to Thanksgiving, tomorrow is a day off. I'm planning a visit to see my 1972 TR6 (Helen Back) in the painter's care. I'm excited to see the progress and nervous as he has my TR6... Time to start thinking of things like the new top and where to get a serviceable licence plate assembly. It's all good as long as she's ready by spring... As I mentioned several springs ago. She looks so good, even sanded... Jerry Cole Lakewood, WA. 1972 TR6 (Helen Back) From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 20 21:25:11 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 23:25:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 timing Chain Tensioner Question In-Reply-To: <004801c82bf4$ac0dcfa0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <47436CD7.20676.1087248@localhost> On 20 Nov 2007 at 23:11, Tony Gordon wrote: > Surely there has to be a better way of providing tension? ... Is > there anything better out there, or am I worrying unnecessarily? Doesn't all that unnecessary worrying give you enough tension? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007 7:05 PM From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Nov 20 21:22:14 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 23:22:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gator Holes Message-ID: <000001c82bf8$7a558d50$a294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I hate to whine, but, are there any 'tricks' to installing new rubber tie-rod caps (or Gaitors) and ball-joint covers? I've punched holes in them (I suspect them no good now) trying to get them onto the joint, another one seems so loose it won't grab the joint. Thanks, Paul Dorsey From 6parts at charter.net Tue Nov 20 22:03:04 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 00:03:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed References: Message-ID: <002101c82bfb$ccc57f20$03d30c47@alan> I was curious if you had to order it and how much. Mine gave it up today. I went around town and no one had a bosch, so I ordered it from Napa ,$ 109 + $18 core. Going to be a few days, because of the holiday. And there was only 5 in the warehouse and none at the factory. Lucas alternators aren't avail. period. I am also looking for some TR6 intake manifolds 72-76, if anyone has some they'd like to sell. Al Salvatore www.triumphowners.com/624 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marty Clark" To: "Triumph Email List" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 9:23 PM Subject: [6pack] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed > Thanks to everyone how send me email on my failed alternator. I decided to > follow Joe Curry and Randall's advice and I now have a 55 amp alternator > in > the TR6 tonight. Both recommended a 78-80 Ford Fiesta with A/C Bosch unit. > It bolted right in, same cable connectors. Only minor issue was the fan(?) > on the pulley just touched the washer and bolt on the adjustment arm. I > removed the middle washer from between the bracket and the alternator and > all was well. Volts read 13.9 at 1,500 RPM. > > Once again the list get me back on the road. > > Marty Clark > Gilbert, AZ > 1974 TR6 CF17352U > http://www.triumphowners.com/798 > > Your messages not reaching the list? > Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html > > === Help keep Team.Net on the air > === http://www.team.net/donate.html > > === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net or > try > === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool > === Other lists available at > === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo > === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > === http://www.team.net/the-local > === Edit your replies! > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1141 - Release Date: > 11/20/2007 11:34 AM From 6parts at charter.net Tue Nov 20 22:04:55 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 00:04:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed Message-ID: <002601c82bfc$0eb7f930$03d30c47@alan> >I was curious if you had to order it and how much. > Mine gave it up today. > I went around town and no one had a bosch, so I ordered it from Napa ,$ > 109 + $18 core. > Going to be a few days, because of the holiday. > And there was only 5 in the warehouse and none at the factory. > Lucas alternators aren't avail. period. > > I am also looking for some TR6 intake manifolds 72-76, if anyone has some > they'd like to sell. > > Al Salvatore > > www.triumphowners.com/624 > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Marty Clark" > To: "Triumph Email List" ; "6pack" > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 9:23 PM > Subject: [6pack] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed > > >> Thanks to everyone how send me email on my failed alternator. I decided >> to >> follow Joe Curry and Randall's advice and I now have a 55 amp alternator >> in >> the TR6 tonight. Both recommended a 78-80 Ford Fiesta with A/C Bosch >> unit. >> It bolted right in, same cable connectors. Only minor issue was the >> fan(?) >> on the pulley just touched the washer and bolt on the adjustment arm. I >> removed the middle washer from between the bracket and the alternator and >> all was well. Volts read 13.9 at 1,500 RPM. >> >> Once again the list get me back on the road. >> >> Marty Clark >> Gilbert, AZ >> 1974 TR6 CF17352U >> http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Nov 20 22:14:09 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 00:14:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 timing Chain Tensioner Question References: <357951.50270.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007f01c82bfd$5b771430$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Thanks. Just looked at one and it is more substantial than the TR6 one, and although it would need to be fitted inside the cover somehow, it looks like a better solution. I think I recall that the old BMC A series tensioners operated in a similar manner (but I might be wrong). Do you know if it has spring function to supplement the initial tension setting ... and finally, the big question, do you know of anyone who has used one in a '6? ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: johnehorton at yahoo.com To: Tony Gordon Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 11:58 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 timing Chain Tensioner Question The Tr7 tensioner might be an option. John H. Tony Gordon wrote: Having now completed the tear down, and having got some of the mechanicals organized, I was looking at the "odd bits and pieces" still to be dealt with, and have come across some references to a need to improve the timing chain tensioner ... and I can see why! The standard bit of bent spring steel doesn't inspire any confidence! Surely there has to be a better way of providing tension? I seem to recall from my experiences with UK 4 cylinder engines (mostly Ford or Lotus-Ford 4) that spring-loaded hard rubber blocks were the norm, and that you could increase the tension to hold timing at the cost of more frequent timing cover tear downs). Is there anything better out there, or am I worrying unnecessarily? ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. From wbeech at flash.net Tue Nov 20 22:39:18 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 22:39:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] AON Collector Car Insurance In-Reply-To: <001201c82ba1$bc025e60$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20071121053946.2BD6E1879EB@autox.team.net> I went through my AARP insurer, The Hartford. They added the TR3 with full coverage the same a my two newer (2004 & 2005) cars. Reasonable rates too! Certainly worth the $20 a year for membership. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 11:18 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6 Pack' Subject: [TR] AON Collector Car Insurance If anyone has their car insured with AON Collector Car Insurance be forewarned that they are no longer underwriting classic cars. And to make matters worse, they didn't even send me any written notification as such. I thought (bad move on my part) that my insurance with them came up for renewal around now so I just checked my insurance card. Wrong...it expired 10/1! I've been driving an un-insured car for 7 weeks now. A check of their web site shows them out of the classic car business. I just called their office and there's no answer or recording. Luckily the rest of my insurance is with AMICA which is a wonderful company and they immediately added my car. I still need to have the "agreed to value" vs "stated value" discussion but it was more important to get it covered now. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007 7:05 PM No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.2/1142 - Release Date: 11/20/2007 5:44 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.2/1142 - Release Date: 11/20/2007 5:44 PM From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Nov 20 23:02:36 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 01:02:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed In-Reply-To: <002101c82bfb$ccc57f20$03d30c47@alan> References: <002101c82bfb$ccc57f20$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <8C9FA1B3FEFBF61-3A0-65C@WEBMAIL-MB15.sysops.aol.com> Al, If you explore my car on the triumphowners.com/108 web site you will find my information on installing a GM alternator.? It is in the "Special Projects" section near the bottom of the page.? Included in the information is the part number of the alternator I used.? A couple years back it was about $45, including the core charge.? The GM alternator can be used right side up by trimming the alternator housing but I chose a different path and explained my solution in the article on the web site.? It is another solution.? I seem to recall that the alternator was in stock at my local NAPA store. Yell if you have any questions. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> To: Marty Clark ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 11:03 pm Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed I was curious if you had to order it and how much. Mine gave it up today. I went around town and no one had a bosch, so I ordered it from Napa ,$ 109 + $18 core. Going to be a few days, because of the holiday. And there was only 5 in the warehouse and none at the factory. Lucas alternators aren't avail. period. I am also looking for some TR6 intake manifolds 72-76, if anyone has some they'd like to sell. Al Salvatore www.triumphowners.com/624 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marty Clark" To: "Triumph Email List" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 9:23 PM Subject: [6pack] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed > Thanks to everyone how send me email on my failed alternator. I decided to > follow Joe Curry and Randall's advice and I now have a 55 amp alternator > in > the TR6 tonight. Both recommended a 78-80 Ford Fiesta with A/C Bosch unit. > It bolted right in, same cable connectors. Only minor issue was the fan(?) > on the pulley just touched the washer and bolt on the adjustment arm. I > removed the middle washer from between the bracket and the alternator and > all was well. Volts read 13.9 at 1,500 RPM. > > Once again the list get me back on the road. > > Marty Clark > Gilbert, AZ > 1974 TR6 CF17352U > http://www.triumphowners.com/798 > ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 21 00:44:55 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 23:44:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] Gator Holes In-Reply-To: <000001c82bf8$7a558d50$a294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071121074455.OGRL27463.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I hate to whine, but, are there any 'tricks' to installing > new rubber tie-rod caps (or Gaitors) and ball-joint covers? > I've punched holes in them (I suspect them no good now) > trying to get them onto the joint, another one seems so loose > it won't grab the joint. Sounds to me like you've got them mixed up. The tie rod boots are smaller diameter than the ball joint boots, I believe. Otherwise, I just push them towards their home with one hand, and use a small screwdriver in the other to lift the lip into it's groove. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 21 00:51:04 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 23:51:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 timing Chain Tensioner Question In-Reply-To: <004801c82bf4$ac0dcfa0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <20071121075104.PXOS10822.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> Tony, The timing chain gets plenty of tension on the tension side; all the 'tensioner' has to do is keep the slack side from banging around. With longer chains (like the TR7) that can be a problem, but the short, stout chain on a TR6 doesn't need all that much, IMO. Anyway, the TR2-4 use the same arrangement, and when mine broke after some 40 years of service, I just replaced it with a new one (which probably would have lasted another 40 years). Driving with it broken caused no problems at all, just kind of a funny noise at certain engine rpm. BTW, I believe the TR7 takes the same tensioner as a Stag, which requires an oil supply for proper operation. Since they are overhead cam engines, the chain is several times longer than the TR2-6, and the fancier tensioner is merited. YMMV, etc. Randall From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Wed Nov 21 01:02:34 2007 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 09:02:34 +0100 Subject: [TR] length of string - long In-Reply-To: <112020072050.1380.4743487A0004C6E20000056422070016410B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> References: <112020072050.1380.4743487A0004C6E20000056422070016410B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000101c82c14$dfe95cc0$9fbc1640$@com> Oh yes, you're right. In addition, I've heard that Bob's my uncle, and I'm pretty sure that none of my uncles ever had a TR3. Eric Heinsberg/Germany http://brits-n-pieces.com -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von auprichard at comcast.net Gesendet: Dienstag, 20. November 2007 21:50 An: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [TR] length of string - long So if, as I meant to say, Bob says "at least one of my cars is a TR3", then there are three possibilities: two TR3s, a TR3 followed by a TR2, or a TR2 followed by a TR3 - so he has a 1:3 chance of having 2 TR3s. Joe's first car was a TR3, so he has only a 50% of having two TR3s. So the answer is Joe From banc8004 at comcast.net Wed Nov 21 04:24:10 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 06:24:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 exhaust bracket - photo Message-ID: <5ADEEBA3-F176-4877-8A7B-D417B9EC6DCF@comcast.net> Could someone please send me a photograph of the front exhaust bracket in place on a TR4. This is the bracket that connects the front pipe to the gearbox. This bracket was missing on my car, and the bumping of my exhaust is taking the shine off my ride. None of my books show the bracket in place, that I can find. I'm hoping the bracket just received from Moss cures the issue. Thanks, and safe travels to all over the next few days, Brian 1963 TR4 Valley Forge, PA From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Nov 21 05:42:59 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 07:42:59 EST Subject: [TR] HOW LARGE IS A SHEET OF PAPER? Message-ID: In a message dated 11/20/2007 6:28:19 PM Central Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > Actually, Don, we are ahead of you. The entire decimal thing is an > unfortunate evolutionary diversion. Biologists at MIT are working on > the genetic modifications necessary (16 fingers) so we can count in > hex. Alas, at this time we are only capable of octal. But at least > that's easy because we can all be retrofitted to 8 without having to > resort to genetics. > There's no need to resort to surgery, either. All you have to do is designate two fingers and "spares" and keep them in the boot. Then, when an engine stand tips over and takes away on of your digits all you have to do is dust off one of the spares and your math skills will be unaffected. That's what's called contingency planning. Dave From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Nov 21 06:45:30 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 08:45:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 timing Chain Tensioner Question Message-ID: <20071121134530.23663.qmail@server306.com> Thanks Dick, I am sure that Grandma Hoses would have given a more pithy reply! You are probably right; I was just surprised at how flimsy the unit is compared to those used in small Fords (with a tensioner of about the same length, albeit a single row chain). There is a reference in one of Kastner's articles regarding the tensioner, plus the Improving your TR5, 250 and 6 book also mentions a means of improving the tensioner ... so I was guessing that someone in the list was familiar with how this might be done! ************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************** > -------Original Message------- > From: Sally or Dick Taylor > Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 timing Chain Tensioner Question > Sent: Nov 21 '07 02:45 > > Tony---There's probably a better way, but the one designed for the six > engine seems to be adequate. The accuracy of the cam timing should be as > good as the condition of the chain and sprockets allow, as the chain > tensioner is on the back side of things. The spring steel should last > quite awhile, since it's constantly bathed in oil. No need to worry! > > Dick > > > From: > > triumph at 2simpleusa.com(Tony Gordon) > > Having now completed the tear down, and having got some of the > mechanicals organized, I was looking at the "odd bits and pieces" still > to be dealt with, and have come across some references to a need to > improve the timing chain tensioner ... and I can see why! The standard > bit of bent spring steel doesn't inspire any confidence! > Surely there has to be a better way of providing tension? I seem to > recall from my experiences with UK 4 cylinder engines (mostly Ford or > Lotus-Ford 4) that spring-loaded hard rubber > blocks were the norm, and that you could > > increase the tension to hold timing > > at the cost of more frequent timing cover tear downs). > Is there anything better out there, or am I worrying unnecessarily? > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************************************** > > Your messages not reaching the list? > Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html > > === Help keep Team.Net on the air > === http://www.team.net/donate.html > > === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net or try > === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool > === Other lists available at > === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo > === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > === http://www.team.net/the-local > === Edit your replies! From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Wed Nov 21 07:40:17 2007 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 09:40:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stator tube olive question Message-ID: <000f01c82c4c$6fb727b0$6700a8c0@andy> Im in the process of rebuilding the steering box. One of those things that started with replacing the draught excluder and continued until everything connected, including the dash, got removed. Anyway, I put the steering box olive in a safe place while the steering box went to the machine shop to get the drop arm removed, and it was such a safe place I cant find it. Will a regular compression band work, or is there something special about the olive. I noticed that it never compresses enough to really grip the stator tube, but that could be the compression nut. I dont mind paying the buck ninety nine for the olive, its the $5.99 in shipping. TIA Andy No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.2/1142 - Release Date: 11/20/2007 5:44 PM From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Nov 21 08:57:31 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 10:57:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stator tube olive question In-Reply-To: <000f01c82c4c$6fb727b0$6700a8c0@andy> References: <000f01c82c4c$6fb727b0$6700a8c0@andy> Message-ID: <200711211057.31914.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 21 November 2007 09:40 am, Andy wrote: > Im in the process of rebuilding the steering box. One of those things that > started with replacing the draught excluder and continued until everything > connected, including the dash, got removed. > > Anyway, I put the steering box olive in a safe place while the steering box > went to the machine shop to get the drop arm removed, and it was such a > safe place I cant find it. Will a regular compression band work, or is > there something special about the olive. I noticed that it never compresses > enough to really grip the stator tube, but that could be the compression > nut. > > I dont mind paying the buck ninety nine for the olive, its the $5.99 in > shipping. > > TIA > > Andy Andy, I have removed and re-fitted that nut and olive a number of times. It doesnt appear to compress because I believe the tube is too hard/firm. So if you can get a fitting the same size, it should work out ok. But If not I am sure one of the big three could supply one. Bob From Polyspec at aol.com Wed Nov 21 08:15:27 2007 From: Polyspec at aol.com (Polyspec at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 10:15:27 EST Subject: [TR] Charging system not working Message-ID: My 1971 TR6 has a rebuilt Lucas alternator. The source was Precision Parts & Remanufacturing Company in Oklahoma City, OK. Their website: _www.pprok.com_ (http://www.pprok.com) indicates they are still available. I did not see any current prices, but their phone number is 800-654-3846. The part number for a 1970-1971 alternator is LUA 582. Hope this info helps someone in the future. Bob Childrez **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Wed Nov 21 09:28:25 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 09:28:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed In-Reply-To: <160-4743E3E6-8792@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net> References: <160-4743E3E6-8792@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Got there at 2,000 RPM. Marty On 11/21/07, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > > Marty---Your new alternator shuld be putting out closer to 14.5V. One > way to check the accuracy of the volt meter is to turn on the ign. key > and wait for the dash meter to reach the peak power provided by the > battery. This number is 12.6V for a good battery.(Or you can check both > battery and alternator output with a voltmeter) Got this info from Dan, > the Man. > > Dick > > From: > > marty.tr6 at gmail.com(MartyClark) > > Thanks to everyone how send me email on my failed alternator. I decided > to follow Joe Curry and Randall's advice and I now have a 55 amp > alternator in the TR6 tonight. Both recommended a 78-80 Ford Fiesta with > A/C Bosch unit. It bolted right in, same cable connectors. Only minor > issue was the fan(?) on the pulley just touched the washer and bolt on > the adjustment arm. I removed the middle washer from between the bracket > and the alternator and all was well. Volts read 13.9 at 1,500 RPM. > Once again the list get me back on the road. > Marty Clark > Gilbert, AZ > 1974 TR6 CF17352U > > -- Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 http://collectiblecars.nytimes.com/View_Listing.asp?ListingID=COL610033 From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Wed Nov 21 09:41:58 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 09:41:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed In-Reply-To: <002101c82bfb$ccc57f20$03d30c47@alan> References: <002101c82bfb$ccc57f20$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: No clue if they will ship but I got mine at Merle's AutoSupply Tucson AZ. $59 plus $22 core charge. They didn't have it in stock at the store I called but they had it by the end of the day. Web Site: http://www.merlesauto.com/stores.html NAPA in Gilbert AZ told me they didn't stock and couldn't order it. AutoZone could order it for $108 plus $18 core charge. Marty On 11/20/07, Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> wrote: > > I was curious if you had to order it and how much. > Mine gave it up today. > I went around town and no one had a bosch, so I ordered it from Napa ,$ > 109 > + $18 core. > Going to be a few days, because of the holiday. > And there was only 5 in the warehouse and none at the factory. > Lucas alternators aren't avail. period. > > I am also looking for some TR6 intake manifolds 72-76, if anyone has some > they'd like to sell. > > Al Salvatore > > www.triumphowners.com/624 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 21 09:53:46 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 08:53:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 timing Chain Tensioner Question In-Reply-To: <20071121134530.23663.qmail@server306.com> Message-ID: <20071121165346.JPTP248.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > There is a reference in one of Kastner's articles > regarding the tensioner, Tony, my comments were strictly from the basis of observing the factory redline. If you plan to exceed that for substantial lengths of time (as Kas did), then an improved tensioner (not to mention everything else) is probably a good idea. Randall From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Wed Nov 21 11:56:52 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 10:56:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] FW: [Nobbc] Update on Emissions Bill A.B. 616 - cars 15 yrs old + Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5C1@mail2.sr.local> An update of California Assembly Bill 616 from nobbc at autox.team.net lister. Heads up, this would be a very bad thing for all of us who own any classic car. Deano -----Original Message----- From: nobbc-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:nobbc-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gtwincams Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 6:57 AM To: North Bay British Car Club Subject: [Nobbc] Update on Emissions Bill A.B. 616 - cars 15 yrs old + Hi NOBBCers For those who have been following A.B. 616, which requires annual smog checks for vehicles 15 years and older (that's all cars, by the way, including our currently exempted 1975 or older classics), it has been set aside for the year, but was previously approved by the full California Assembly (!) and Senate Transportation Committee. Part of the money would be used to scrap older vehicles, encouraging even further reduction in available classic cars, and increasing costs for those remaining. So far, the committee members were convinced that these vintage cars represent a very small portion of the vehicle population, and the extra regulation would not have provided sufficient emission reductions to be justified. What this means is that the bill could be introduced next year, or the next. I bring this to your attention not to elicit political diatribes about California politics, but to ask you all to stay on your toes about pending legislation regarding classic cars, and be ready to add your voices to those who have worked to sideline this bill (various car clubs, SEMA, etc.). Most states retain a rolling exemption, something we also enjoyed in California until it was repealed a couple of years ago. That has sent the value of post-1975 classics down (unless they are much rarer, exotic, or high-performance), and essentially stalling the lower-cost classic car market in the state. For those NOBBC members with British classics that will not pass a rolling road smog check, don't have all or functioning smog gear (much is not available for some cars), this type of legislation would require selling the vehicle or converting it to another engine, something that is not of interest to many. So, please stay aware of the issue, and if you read or hear something new, please post to this and other groups. It would not hurt to send a quick, brief letter to your representatives and the Senate Transportation Committee members now, supporting the abandonment of this and future similar bills. Trish and I hope you all have a great Thanksgiving, and hope to see you on the next drive. Cheers, Greg Tatarian 1971 Lotus Elan S4 1974 Triumph TR6 1974 Alfa Romeo GTV _______________________________________________ Nobbc mailing list Nobbc at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/nobbc From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Nov 21 12:16:01 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 12:16:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 exhaust bracket - photo In-Reply-To: <5ADEEBA3-F176-4877-8A7B-D417B9EC6DCF@comcast.net> References: <5ADEEBA3-F176-4877-8A7B-D417B9EC6DCF@comcast.net> Message-ID: I got that same bracket and for the same reason... after studying it I decided to wait until the next time the gearbox was out to install it. It's now in but I have no pics. If it is the same bracket I'm thinking of it has a nut welded to it that replaces the nut on the righthand bolt holding the rear mount of the gearbox... the big bolt with a 13/16"(?) head. I do not think you can get that thing bolted up w/o removing the tunnel, the dash support and possibly more, but I could be wrong. It did help secure the exhaust (a bit) though what helped more I think was adding a strap mount between the 2 mufflers, there was even a bracket on the frame in the exact spot I needed one. I do not know if a TR3 middle exhaust mount would work (don't see why not) you might find it is easier to retro-fit without removing stuff. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Jones" > Could someone please send me a photograph of the front exhaust > bracket in place on a TR4. This is the bracket that connects the > front pipe to the gearbox. This bracket was missing on my car, and > the bumping of my exhaust is taking the shine off my ride. None of my > books show the bracket in place, that I can find. > > I'm hoping the bracket just received from Moss cures the issue. From spitlist at cox.net Wed Nov 21 18:40:07 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (spitlist at cox.net) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 20:40:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 in Los Angeles Message-ID: <20071121204007.23XKJ.108144.root@eastrmwml20.mgt.cox.net> I spotted a nice blue TR6 this morning at the Angeles National Golf course. Anybody on the list claim it? Joe C. From davidt at opentext.com Wed Nov 21 18:49:43 2007 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 20:49:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr3a in a movie Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB47E6@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> I was just at the video store and saw a movie called Flywheel and it has a white '59 on the cover. Look on the back of the jacket and it looks like the car is part of the actual movie not just window dressing. :-). To the friends south of the border, Happy Thanksgiving David Templeton '59 tr3a '74 spitsix From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Nov 21 20:37:10 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 22:37:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 timing Chain Tensioner Question References: <24173-47447E75-9428@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <007901c82cb9$975bb200$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Hi Dick, Just in case you are in need of some ideas on how to tension the chain in your new design .... I did a little searching on the Ford front and found a picture of the snail cam that was used to apply pressure with the single chain pad in the old days ... that is now available as a double width pad from the Formula Ford folks who still use the 1600 Kent (or crossflow) engine. Although I will not venture to suggest that this is better than the current spring steel strip system used in the TR6, but it does seem to work well for the FF and the high revving and highly loaded camshafts of the Ford brigade. And I must say that when I raced a very hot 1300 Kent engine (through a restrictor plate) so everything had to be done to the cam and the rocker gear, I never once had a problem with a failure or any evidence of significant wear. Having said that, the thing was so loud that I wouldn't have heard any timing chain noise anyway! Regards to Grandma and hoping that she recovers her strength soon. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" To: Cc: "TR list" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 1:52 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 timing Chain Tensioner Question 2 Tony---There are forces at work that could improve the whole front engine cover, using cast aluminum along with a hydraulic chain tensioner. I won't put him on the spot for when this (product) will come about, but I understand it's on the drawing board. Grandma who? Dick From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com() Thanks Dick, I am sure that Grandma Hoses would have given a more pithy reply! You are probably right; I was just surprised at how flimsy the unit is compared to those used in small Fords (with a tensioner of about the same length, albeit a single row chain). There is a reference in one of Kastner's articles regarding the tensioner, plus the Improving your TR5, 250 and 6 book also mentions a means of improving the tensioner ... so I was guessing that someone in the list was familiar with how this might be done! ************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of Kent tensioner.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of Kent Double width pad.jpg] From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Thu Nov 22 05:20:03 2007 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 12:20:03 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Bodyshell US to UK shipping Message-ID: <20071122121137.EF8EA1879C8@autox.team.net> A friend has asked me for advice on buying a TR6 in the US, and shipping back to the UK. He has a donor car with bodywork that is beyond any sensible repair through rust. He would like to find either a substantially rust free bodyshell, or a complete car in need of restoration. Does anyone have advice on doing this, or a suitable vehicle/shell for sale? Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Nov 22 06:51:48 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 13:51:48 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator Conversion Bracket Problem Message-ID: <112220071351.20305.474589740006DFB600004F5122165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> A year ago, driving to work in the dark, driving home in the dark, I was surprised to find that my battery was dead after two weeks. Hmmm...apparently the generator was unable to keep with the daily drain, a point confirmed by Listers. So, I've loved the new GM alternator that I replaced the generator with. But the problem is, I've broken three different top brackets. And now, having broken the bottom generator bracket trying to "flex" it to get it back onto the engine, the front engine plate has broken at the bracket-to-generator mount. Gadfrey. While I continue trying to source a generator bracket (upper and lower), I'm also trying to decide whether to give up on the alternator and go back to the plodding, inadequate, but steady generator. But before I do, does anyone do an aftermarket manufacture of just the bracket? I obviously don't have the engineering talent to make one, and don't need the whole conversion kit. Happy Turkey Day! Terry Smith '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Thu Nov 22 07:15:56 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 09:15:56 EST Subject: [TR] Tr3a in a movie Message-ID: Flywheel http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0425027/ ************************************** Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From JJJKIMBRELL0357 at aol.com Thu Nov 22 08:59:14 2007 From: JJJKIMBRELL0357 at aol.com (JJJKIMBRELL0357 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 10:59:14 EST Subject: [TR] Tr4 support bracket Message-ID: I have just finished installing the center support bracket you describe on my TR4. You can find a diagram on page 1-402 of the workshop manual . It required removal of the console with the exhaust already in place. It uses two brackets & a longer bolt, all offered by Moss.I am still working on the back part to clear the frame tunnel issue.I hope this helps ! Jeff Kimbrell 1962 Triumph TR4 Marietta, Ga. **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From pfischer at rmi.net Thu Nov 22 09:10:29 2007 From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 10:10:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] Happy Thanksgiving Everyone Message-ID: <4745A9F5.80906@rmi.net> Listers, we all have a lot to be thankful for - we DO have Triumphs, after all. But the more important things, too. We hope all of you, U.S., Canada, Britain, everywhere have a time of peace and thanks with your families. While I'm at it, thanks to you all for your fun, wisdom and advice. Thanks not the least of all for Mark who keeps this list running. Best wishes, Pat Fischer Roger Elliott Stilwell, KS From pethier at comcast.net Thu Nov 22 09:35:55 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 16:35:55 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Bodyshell US to UK shipping Message-ID: <112220071635.26004.4745AFEB00022AE00000659422070016419D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Bill Davies" > A friend has asked me for advice on buying a TR6 in the US, and shipping > back to the UK. He has a donor car with bodywork that is beyond any sensible > repair through rust. He would like to find either a substantially rust free > bodyshell, or a complete car in need of restoration. > Does anyone have advice on doing this, or a suitable vehicle/shell for sale? By the time he gets a suitable car in the USA and ships it back to the UK, he might have been better-off with getting a new Heritage bodyshell in the UK. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Nov 22 09:58:57 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 11:58:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Bodyshell US to UK shipping References: <112220071635.26004.4745AFEB00022AE00000659422070016419D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <005201c82d28$f94e9e40$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> I looked into this for a friend a few years ago, and the cost of shipping deck-cargo/mixed batch container was about $3,000 from Chicago to Ipswich. There was a lot of paperwork to be done, and ever shipper I spoke to informed me that anything (and they stressed ANYTHING) of value (radio, interesting badges, rear view mirror, shiny engine parts) needed to be removed prior to shipping since it was bound to go astray. The alternative was to ship sealed container but that was very expensive (can't recall the cost but I think it was more than double). 'Though shipping two cars in a sealed container might make it worthwhile .... in terms of ports, you could ship from Newark, Atlanta (well, somewhere in Georgia) Los Angeles or Chicago (I think Newark was the cheapest). ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Bill Davies" ; Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2007 11:35 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Bodyshell US to UK shipping > From: "Bill Davies" >> A friend has asked me for advice on buying a TR6 in the US, and shipping >> back to the UK. He has a donor car with bodywork that is beyond any >> sensible >> repair through rust. He would like to find either a substantially rust >> free >> bodyshell, or a complete car in need of restoration. >> Does anyone have advice on doing this, or a suitable vehicle/shell for >> sale? > > By the time he gets a suitable car in the USA and ships it back to the UK, > he might have been better-off with getting a new Heritage bodyshell in the > UK. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, > 1994 Miata C package > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Nov 22 11:53:09 2007 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 10:53:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator Conversion Bracket Problem In-Reply-To: <112220071351.20305.474589740006DFB600004F5122165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comca st.net> References: <112220071351.20305.474589740006DFB600004F5122165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comca st.net> Message-ID: I went through those problems, and I believe the solution is a matter of physical science. My alternator instructions simply called for bolting the bottom of the alternator to the front generator mount ... I thought that was very flimsy. So ... I got a bolt long enough (six inches if I remember correctly) to go through both front and back generator mount holes. Added steel tubing spacers between the mounting holes (to keep them from bending in) ... this required several "fittings". I then bolted the alternator to this cantilevered support. The upper mounting bracket required whacking on a solid surface to make it flat, as in no bend. This has been in place and working fine for over a year. I am now in the process of replacing all the pulleys with the cool aluminum narrow belt kit, primarily because of the great crankshaft dampener that is part of the kit. I found that the generator pulley can be adapted to the alternator by boring out the hole (carefully) and adding a shim or two to make sure everything lines up. The key is the cantilevered bolt ... the front generator mount is just to flimsy to hold the alternator by it's lonely only. Good Luck -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Nov 22 13:16:16 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 13:16:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr3a in a movie In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: A larger image here: http://www.just4kidsmagazine.com/reviews/flywheel.html And a pic of the owner on this page of all places (half way down): http://albanyhightimes.com/us_now!.htm Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2007 7:15 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a in a movie > Flywheel > > http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0425027/ From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Nov 22 13:42:38 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 15:42:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Checking the drop arm's 3 degree setting Message-ID: <005601c82d48$39f48300$a294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Happy Thanksgiving! Recently, I was told that one cause of my TR3's steering's misadjustment might be an incorrect setting of the drop arm (pitman arm). The correct setting for the drop arm is when there is a 3 degree deviation between the drop arm and steering shaft when the steering is set straight ahead. I believe the idler arm would also be parallel with the drop arm. Although this measurement might amount to simply several 'teeth' on the rocker shaft in order to achieve the desired 3 degrees, I have no way of knowing where 'straight ahead' really is. I might be able to make a good guess. I suspect that when on when one has the steering straight ahead that this 3 degrees might translate into 1/2" at the tail end of the short drop arm to the steering column. Can someone please tell me if 1/2" is correct? It proably is larger. In fact, there might be a better way to check this for accuracy. Thank you very much Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From davidt at opentext.com Thu Nov 22 13:51:47 2007 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 15:51:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr3a in a movie In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E07CA2E1E@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> Ok this gets better and better (I suppose) http://www.flywheelthemovie.com/index.php Better picture of the entire car... http://www.flywheelthemovie.com/_images/_resources/flywheel_desktop2_126 0.jpg David From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Nov 22 14:48:01 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 21:48:01 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Bodyshell US to UK shipping References: <20071122121137.EF8EA1879C8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <008f01c82d51$5acc79d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Bill, I'd have thought a better option - and possibly cheaper (?) would be to talk to British Motor Heritage at Witney. I had heard the TR bodyshell had been briefly unavailable but they still talk about it on the website. Jonmac From bbrewer at tvwireless.net Thu Nov 22 16:17:48 2007 From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 15:17:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tr3a in a movie Message-ID: I watched "Flywheel" last year and did a list posting. It was a low budget film by a Christian church and was their first movie attempt. I am a Christian and enjoyed it, but it is really corny. For a non-believer to watch it and enjoy it might be difficult. On a lighter note, I was watching "It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World" and I saw a TR3 in one of the scenes towards the end of the movie. You have to watch quick though. Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA Message: 3 Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 20:49:43 -0500 From: "David Templeton" Subject: [TR] Tr3a in a movie To: Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB47E6 at OTWATMX01.opentext.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I was just at the video store and saw a movie called Flywheel and it has a white '59 on the cover. Look on the back of the jacket and it looks like the car is part of the actual movie not just window dressing. :-). To the friends south of the border, Happy Thanksgiving David Templeton '59 tr3a '74 spitsix From DLylis at aol.com Thu Nov 22 18:17:50 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 20:17:50 EST Subject: [TR] Checking the drop arm's 3 degree setting Message-ID: Paul, 1/2" is not far off but mine is assembled and I cannot get a clear view. I have Joe A.'s Delrin Silentblocs in place, etc. so I can't really see it. This is what I recommend. It sounds as though you are going to take that drop arm off anyway to reposition so at that time, find the straight ahead by finding the center of the worm. If you are not going to remove the drop arm anyway, do this. Eliminate any confusion you have with the wheels by disconnecting the tie rod ends so the wheels just flop loose. Gently turn the steering wheel (steering shaft if you do not have the steering wheel on) all the way to one side until it stops. Don't jam the peg against the end of the worm. Now make a mark on the shaft and on the tube. Turn the shaft all the way the other way until it stops, counting the number of times that the shaft mark passes the tube mark. You will have a fraction of a turn so estimate what that fraction is. Now divide that in half and returning to the side you started with turn the shaft that 1/2 amount, and make another mark on the tube where the shaft mark stops. Now turn the shaft all the way to the other side and do the same thing again by turning it back toward the center the same number of turns which is 1/2 of the total turns. If the two marks on the tube are not in the exact same place, split the difference and that is straight ahead. Mark this on the tube corresponding to the mark on the shaft and make it prominent so you can refer to it. Note where the drop arm is. Is the axis of the drop arm 3 degrees closer to the tube from parallel? If not you have to reposition the drop arm. If you have questions as to whether or not this is truly straight ahead, take the cover off the steering box and note where the rocker arm is. It should be mid point on the worm. Before reassembling the tie rod ends make sure that the tie rods are the same length from hole center to hole center. If not, make them that way. I believe that you can get the tie rod length measurements from Bentley. If you make the tie rods the same length that is a good starting reference point for getting the car aligned properly. If you use the marks you have made for reference when you put on the steering wheel you will be able to get the spokes positioned reasonably well. You may get some other suggestions as well as to how to do this, but this is what I reasoned out and it worked well for me. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From cm.sherman at verizon.net Thu Nov 22 18:51:15 2007 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (sherman) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 20:51:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Bodyshell US to UK shipping In-Reply-To: <005201c82d28$f94e9e40$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <112220071635.26004.4745AFEB00022AE00000659422070016419D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> <005201c82d28$f94e9e40$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <000501c82d73$57cb7660$4301a8c0@D55T0D61> I would be glad to assist anybody interested in shipping internationally. I have no direct financial interest - my father-in-law is a freight-forwarder and has arranged very good pricing for a friend shipping his vintage Triumph from the Uk to the US. The price varies on the points-of-origin, your involvement and preferences. For instance, drive-on drive-off vs. sealed container, or simply a pallet. Pick-up at a particular location via truck or drop-off at the port. If interested, contact me off-list. Corey Sherman cm.sherman at verizon.net No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.4/1145 - Release Date: 11/22/2007 11:49 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 22 23:10:41 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 22:10:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator Conversion Bracket Problem Message-ID: <6881849.1195798241845.JavaMail.root@web33> ---- Bill & AnnaBelle wrote: > I went through those problems, and I believe the solution is a > matter of physical science. FWIW, I tried the "single point" mount, and found out the hard way that it didn't work very well. My solution was virtually identical to Bill's (except I kept the wide belt); and it worked very well for several years. Belt life went up noticeably. Randall - from a hotel room somewhere in northern CA From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Fri Nov 23 03:39:33 2007 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 11:39:33 +0100 Subject: [TR] Steering gear for Triumph Roadster 1800 Message-ID: <00b901c82dbd$22d0fe90$6872fbb0$@com> Hi, I'm in search of a steering gear or parts thereof of a Triumph Roadster 1800. If anybody can help me out I'd appreciate an offline reply. Thanks Eric From banc8004 at comcast.net Fri Nov 23 03:49:14 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 05:49:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 371 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <388F60DC-CC52-4CF1-B44B-A0EBB40AF149@comcast.net> Jef - thanks. I had seen that image. I understood where the clamp fixes on the exhaust, but I was unclear where on the car went the bracket. Good luck with your efforts. Mine is a TRF muffler set that were on the car when I bought it. Best I can guess, it was put on in the early 90s, and amazingly, the TRF product label is still attached. The SS is in excellent condition, but to my mind the muffler boxes are too #^@&ing BIG. Perhaps the systems they now supply are smaller and fit better than this one. If I can't fix this with the front bracket, I may add a bracket as Geo described (between the mufflers). I have also seen a customised support that would help me in Roger Williams' "How to Improve T2-4a", page 121. It fixes the tailpipe to the cross member that runs under the spare wheel well. If all else fails, I'm going to cut off the second box and add a straight through pipe (like early TR3s had), and add a glass-filled Monza muffler tip, or move to a Monza exhaust. It will be fixed because I have come to the point where, as Mr Churchill once said, "Up with this I will not put". Brian On Nov 22, 2007, at 1:53 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > From: JJJKIMBRELL0357 at aol.com > Subject: [TR] Tr4 support bracket > > I have just finished installing the center support bracket you > describe on > my TR4. You can find a diagram on page 1-402 of the workshop > manual . It > required removal of the console with the exhaust already in place. > It uses two > brackets & a longer bolt, all offered by Moss.I am still working on > the back > part to clear the frame tunnel issue.I hope this helps ! > > Jeff Kimbrell > 1962 Triumph TR4 > Marietta, Ga. From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Fri Nov 23 04:35:00 2007 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Rarebits) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 11:35:00 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Bodyshell US to UK shipping In-Reply-To: <008f01c82d51$5acc79d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <20071123112632.170EC187A2C@autox.team.net> > -----Original Message----- > From: John Macartney [mailto:standardtriumph at btinternet.com] > Sent: 22 November 2007 21:48 > To: Bill Davies; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Bodyshell US to UK shipping > > Bill, I'd have thought a better option - and possibly cheaper (?) would be > to talk to British Motor > Heritage at Witney. I had heard the TR bodyshell had been briefly > unavailable but they still talk > about it on the website. Sorry Jonmac, there is no way I will be able to convince Paul to wrestle with a Heritage TR6 shell. These have a fearsome reputation for poor quality. If the lop-sided (NEW!) Spitfire bonnet we recently handled was anything to go by, or maybe the non-symmetrical pair of Spitfire bonnet tubes, then the reputation is justified! Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Nov 23 05:55:03 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 12:55:03 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Bodyshell US to UK shipping Message-ID: <013401c82dd0$11256510$0201a8c0@Bevan> Bill Davis wrote: > Sorry Jonmac, there is no way I will be able to convince Paul to wrestle > with a Heritage TR6 shell. These have a fearsome reputation for poor > quality. If the lop-sided (NEW!) Spitfire bonnet we recently handled was > anything to go by, or maybe the non-symmetrical pair of Spitfire bonnet > tubes, then the reputation is justified! Hmm - well I've no axe to grind in favour (or not) of BMH bodyshells or parts. I'd heard in the dim past that Spitfire bits were a disappointment and the re-bodied French Blue TR6 at Gaydon was nothing to write home about in terms of panel fit and door / bonnet / boot lid clearances. That said (and to be kind as well) the BMH shell only reflects the original on those grounds. All TR's coming to Coventry from Liverpool were similarly appalling in that respect. Perhaps BMH ought to go that 'extra mile' in supplying the shells with various lumps and lengths of stout timber, together with some good 'clouterie' in the form of a range of large rubber faced hammers. Such additions would definitely satisfy the 'originality' protagonists. Perhaps a hernia belt might be a good idea too? Jonmac From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Fri Nov 23 06:13:55 2007 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Rarebits) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 13:13:55 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Bodyshell US to UK shipping In-Reply-To: <013401c82dd0$11256510$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <20071123130529.00C49187A4F@autox.team.net> > From: John Macartney [mailto:standardtriumph at btinternet.com] > > Perhaps BMH ought to go that > 'extra mile' in supplying the shells with various lumps and lengths of > stout timber, together with > some good 'clouterie' in the form of a range of large rubber faced > hammers. Such additions would > definitely satisfy the 'originality' protagonists. Perhaps a hernia belt > might be a good idea too? While I've no personal experience with the BMH TR6 shells, the tales related to me go well beyond the usual Standard Triumph build quality. A Heritage approved trader told me that the last of the previous batch was sold off cheap by BMH, they could not be shifted any other way. Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Nov 23 08:55:31 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 10:55:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 exhaust follow up In-Reply-To: <388F60DC-CC52-4CF1-B44B-A0EBB40AF149@comcast.net> References: <388F60DC-CC52-4CF1-B44B-A0EBB40AF149@comcast.net> Message-ID: <200711231055.31567.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 23 November 2007 05:49 am, Brian Jones wrote: > Jef - thanks. I had seen that image. I understood where the clamp > fixes on the exhaust, but I was unclear where on the car went the > bracket. > > Good luck with your efforts. Mine is a TRF muffler set that were on > the car when I bought it. Best I can guess, it was put on in the > early 90s, and amazingly, the TRF product label is still attached. > The SS is in excellent condition, but to my mind the muffler boxes > are too #^@&ing BIG. Perhaps the systems they now supply are smaller > and fit better than this one. > > If I can't fix this with the front bracket, I may add a bracket as > Geo described (between the mufflers). I have also seen a customised > support that would help me in Roger Williams' "How to Improve T2-4a", > page 121. It fixes the tailpipe to the cross member that runs under > the spare wheel well. > > If all else fails, I'm going to cut off the second box and add a > straight through pipe (like early TR3s had), and add a glass-filled > Monza muffler tip, or move to a Monza exhaust. > > It will be fixed because I have come to the point where, as Mr > Churchill once said, "Up with this I will not put". > > Brian > Brian, I installed a Bell stainless system on the TR4 project. 3 piece system headpipe center and rear muffler. In all my almost 40 years of Triumph 3 and 4 ownership history, this is the best fitting system I have ever worked with. There was no bending, cutting, swearing etc. I used the stock mounts on the transmission (headpipe to center muffler) and rear hanger from TRF. I installed a stainless clamp from JCW to secure the front and rear mufflers. It is a little louder than the mild steel system I have installed on the 3, especially when the top and windows are up, but with the top down it is a real treat to drive. A real head turner when I add some throttle in 2nd. Bob From jrmcarthur at verizon.net Fri Nov 23 10:59:29 2007 From: jrmcarthur at verizon.net (james mc arthur) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 12:59:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] loss of damper oil Message-ID: <000d01c82dfa$98b9b380$2f01a8c0@jamesxicl1s1xg> Good day to all; I hope that everyone had an enjoyable holiday! I have managed to put the TR6 back together in preparation for moving day (Surprised myself because no spare bits!!) and have discovered something of concern. I need to drive the car approximately 15 miles so I am not inclined to do anything very involved at this point. My problem is that all of the damper oil in the front carb has disappeared. I have filled the resevior twice now and the fluid keeps going AWOL. No obvious leaks. I have plans to rebuild the carbs when we get to our new home and have the rebuild kits here, in case. So, can anyone tell me what/where my issue is? Many thanks in advance!.......Jim McArthur/ CF17672U From jrmcarthur at verizon.net Fri Nov 23 14:59:49 2007 From: jrmcarthur at verizon.net (james mc arthur) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 16:59:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] loss of damper oil Message-ID: <000f01c82e1c$2bd60f30$2f01a8c0@jamesxicl1s1xg> Many thanks to all who took the time to reply to my inquiry. The consensus is the "o" ring that seals the needle. How can I replace this w/o tearing down the carb? Is this a simple repair or does it require the removal and teardown of the offending carb?............Jim McArthur From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Nov 23 16:25:38 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 18:25:38 EST Subject: [TR] loss of damper oil Message-ID: In a message dated 11/23/2007 12:00:13 PM Central Standard Time, jrmcarthur at verizon.net writes: > My problem is that all of the > damper oil in the front carb has disappeared. I have filled the resevior > twice now and the fluid keeps going AWOL. No obvious leaks. I have plans to > rebuild the carbs when we get to our new home and have the rebuild kits > here, in case. So, can anyone tell me what/where my issue is? Many thanks in > > advance! The damper oil sits on top of the mixture adjuster. There is an O-ring that seals the interface between the bore and the adjuster. After 30 odd years the O-ring has turned into graphite and the oil will run out past the needle where it mixes with the air/fuel mixture and is burned by the engine. You will never see that amount of oil. In your rebuild kit there will be the proper O-ring but changing it out is tricky. First you must remove the needle. This is done by removing the indexing screw on the side of the piston. This is a brass screw and can break if you are not careful. Next adjust the needle to full extension until the needle becomes disengaged with the threads on the adjuster. Next, using a piece of dowel rod slightly smaller than the bore at the bottom, press the adjuster assembly out of the piston. Take care when you reach the end. There is a clip that holds it in position. You will be forcing this out of the bore and when you reach the end it will fly away if you don't catch it. Once you get the adjuster out you will see the O-ring and the rest is obvious. Assembly is the revers of the above. Dave From banc8004 at comcast.net Fri Nov 23 17:40:14 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 19:40:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Exhaust In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At last, my silencer is silenced! Thanks to Bob, Geo, Jim & Jeff. I learned that my gearbox-bracket is in place on the car. How I'd not noticed it in doing prop-shaft u- joints, I don't know. But it's not helpful to my downpipe because, inexplicably, my pipe crosses under the gearbox to the left side of the car, a good 5 or 6 inches from the bracket. As provided by TRF, 17 years ago, my PO told me......I think things have improved since. I ended up recruiting a local custom exhaust guy to help with a couple of brackets. Afterwards, I was half-happy on the way home. The drumming of the exhaust had stopped, but I still had a clunking over rough road that bothered me. Bothered me a lot, actually. Under the car, I could see that Alex of Alex's Exhausts had done all possible to secure this plumbing. The remaining 'clunk' was not this. I remembered a post in the archives about moderately tight suspension fittings causing a surprising amount of noise. So off with the rear wheels, and I set about my task. Last year I had removed the rear dampers to clean them out and refill with fresh oil: what came out as pretty ugly, but they still worked. So now, I find myself hoping for a loose bolt. None were loose, but the bolts holding the dampers, and the u-bolts holding the axle to the springs, got a real waft on a long spanner........making fairly tight bolts much tighter. And guess what? Bingo. This feels like a different car. No more drumming. No more clunking. Oh boy, this is even more fun now!. Best to everyone. For some reason, best known to my better-half, I'm driving us tomorrow from Valley Forge, PA to Manassas, VA to see friends, and then have the joy of the greatest road congestion day of the year from VA back to Valley Forge on Sunday. I-95 anyone? There is a joke in there, with Man and Ass, but it won't help me here to find it. Pip, pip, Brian From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Nov 23 18:26:09 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 01:26:09 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator Conversion Bracket Problem Message-ID: <112420070126.8852.47477DB1000117720000229422147564029C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> If you're near Ukiah or Potter Valley, you're near where I grew up. Not sure what you mean by "single point." Is that a reference to the upper bracket? -------------- Original message -------------- From: > ---- Bill & AnnaBelle wrote: > > I went through those problems, and I believe the solution is a > > matter of physical science. > > FWIW, I tried the "single point" mount, and found out the hard way that it > didn't work very well. My solution was virtually identical to Bill's (except I > kept the wide belt); and it worked very well for several years. Belt life went > up noticeably. > > Randall - from a hotel room somewhere in northern CA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From 6parts at charter.net Fri Nov 23 18:41:40 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 20:41:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] dashboard veneer Message-ID: <029c01c82e3b$2945fd60$03d30c47@alan> Quite a few years ago I was in Conn. for Brits by the Sea and there was a vendor there that was selling precut veneers for TR6 dashboards. Does anyone know this vendor and if he's still around. thanks Al Salvatore www.triumphowners.com/624 From darrellw at ipns.com Fri Nov 23 18:56:12 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 17:56:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] Running with Webers Message-ID: Well, I got far enough to attempt to start my engine with my new Webers. The good news is that is started right up. The bad news (hopefully just temporary) is that it idles at 3000 RPM. I closed down the idle screws all the way and got it to around 2000 RPM. After reading about the adjustments again, I found that one of the air bypasses was open, and the idle mixture screws were opened way up. I didn't have a chance to run it after fixing those things. Hopefully that is the problem, and not an air leak. Also, my new Denso alternator is working, but my ignition warning light doesn't operate. I wired it up according to Dan Master's instructions at the VTR site (or at least that's what I intended to do!). I'll have to debug that as well. Still have my new electric fuel pump to install, Mallory distributor, and figure out what I want to do for air cleaners. -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Fri Nov 23 20:57:52 2007 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 21:57:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] source for nuts and bolts Message-ID: Listers, Back in 2002 there was a thread about the nuts and bolts required in a restoration. The web site www.rustfreeroadsters.com was listed as a source for a complete kit of fasteners. I exchanged some e-mail with the gentleman, but did not make any purchase. The site does not seem to be his anymore. Does anyone have any information about this source?Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA'63 TR3B TCF587LThat ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!See it moves! From twakeman at razzolink.com Fri Nov 23 20:58:26 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 19:58:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] Running with Webers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4747A162.9040308@razzolink.com> Darrell Walker wrote: > Well, I got far enough to attempt to start my engine with my new > Webers. The good news is that is started right up. The bad news > (hopefully just temporary) is that it idles at 3000 RPM. I closed > down the idle screws all the way and got it to around 2000 RPM. > After reading about the adjustments again, I found that one of the > air bypasses was open, and the idle mixture screws were opened way > up. I didn't have a chance to run it after fixing those things. > Hopefully that is the problem, and not an air leak. No questions asked, but be sure the butterflies are completely closed and not uncovering a progression hole. If your carbs have air bypass screws use those to set our idle speed. > > Also, my new Denso alternator is working, but my ignition warning > light doesn't operate. I wired it up according to Dan Master's > instructions at the VTR site (or at least that's what I intended to > do!). I'll have to debug that as well. No question asked but be sure one side of the gen lamp goes to switched 12V and the other side goes to the alternator. > Still have my new electric fuel pump to install, Mallory distributor, > and figure out what I want to do for air cleaners. Still no questions asked. Webers like high volume low pressure (about 3 lbs) pumps. The stock mechanical pump works fine. You may need a pressure regulator for the electric pump. Don't rely upon the distributor parts contacting the engine parts to provide an adequate ground. A real common problem is a poor ground destroying condensers. Play it safe and run wire between the bolt holding the condenser to the distributor and a bolt holding the coil to the block. Also, the condenser is coated. The nibs on the holder are supposed to pierce the coating. Never reuse a condenser holder even if it looks like new. An extra precaution would be to lightly sand the condenser side where the holder nibs make contact. I use an itg filter. You do not want to put a solid surface in close proximity over the air horns. TeriAnn From darrellw at ipns.com Fri Nov 23 21:26:56 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 20:26:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] Running with Webers In-Reply-To: <4747A162.9040308@razzolink.com> References: <4747A162.9040308@razzolink.com> Message-ID: Hi TeriAnn, Thanks for the reply! On Nov 23, 2007, at 7:58 PM, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > No questions asked, but be sure the butterflies are completely closed > and not uncovering a progression hole. If your carbs have air bypass > screws use those to set our idle speed. I'm pretty sure they are. I'm hoping that the one bypass that was open about a turn is the cause, along with the open idle mixture screws. But I think I must also have a vacuum leak, too. >> Also, my new Denso alternator is working, but my ignition warning >> light doesn't operate. I wired it up according to Dan Master's >> instructions at the VTR site (or at least that's what I intended to >> do!). I'll have to debug that as well. > > No question asked but be sure one side of the gen lamp goes to > switched > 12V and the other side goes to the alternator. I'll double check, but it should be, since it was that way when I had the stock generator. It is charging, at least according to the ammeter. I suppose I could have gotten the two wires backwards (sense and ignition) on the alternator. >> Still have my new electric fuel pump to install, Mallory distributor, >> and figure out what I want to do for air cleaners. > > Still no questions asked. Webers like high volume low pressure > (about 3 > lbs) pumps. The stock mechanical pump works fine. You may need a > pressure regulator for the electric pump. Yep, got that from you page. My pump is supposed to be in that range, but I'll get a gauge and confirm once it is in. > Don't rely upon the distributor parts contacting the engine parts to > provide an adequate ground. A real common problem is a poor ground > destroying condensers. Play it safe and run wire between the bolt > holding the condenser to the distributor and a bolt holding the > coil to > the block. Also, the condenser is coated. The nibs on the holder are > supposed to pierce the coating. Never reuse a condenser holder > even if > it looks like new. An extra precaution would be to lightly sand the > condenser side where the holder nibs make contact. I'm using a Pertronix, so no points/condenser. > I use an itg filter. You do not want to put a solid surface in close > proximity over the air horns. That's what I'm planning, just need to decide one for each carb, or one for both. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From 6parts at charter.net Fri Nov 23 22:24:31 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 00:24:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] source for nuts and bolts References: Message-ID: <02ba01c82e5a$4ac97470$03d30c47@alan> Try www.mmsacc-stainless.com for stainless bolts. Al Salvatore www.triumphowners.com/624 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich White" To: "TR owners List" Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 10:57 PM Subject: [TR] source for nuts and bolts > Listers, > Back in 2002 there was a thread about the nuts and bolts required in a > restoration. The web site www.rustfreeroadsters.com was listed as a > source > for a complete kit of fasteners. I exchanged some e-mail with the > gentleman, > but did not make any purchase. The site does not seem to be his anymore. > Does anyone have any information about this source?Rich White St. Joseph, > IL > USA'63 TR3B TCF587LThat ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!See it moves! > _______________________________________________ From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 24 05:37:49 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 07:37:49 EST Subject: [TR] Its alive ! Its Alive! Message-ID: Sorry about the "Young Frankenstein" quote. I started the 3A motor yesterday for the first time since the rebuild. No body so I had to build some wiring off the control box and solenoid. The motor started real hard even though I set the crank at 4 degrees BTDC and set the points to open there. I systematically went back through everything including cam (via rockers) to make sure that all was done correctly and it is. I friend stopped by and while I was fooling with it loosened the distributor and twisted it to an extreme retard (as it appeared to me) and said crank it, which I did. He moved it back toward advance and it fired and ran well. We locked the distributor down and took it gradually up to 2000 rpm and let it sit there. After about 5 - 7 minutes the temp went up to 200 degrees and continued north so I shut it down. I let it cool down and started again and again it ran well but I advanced the spark until the revs came up and then backed it down to retard until the revs dropped about 100 rpms and left it. I set the trottle at 2000 rpms and let her run for 20 minutes. Toward the end the temp started to creep back up and again touched 200 degrees and started north so I shut it down again. Drained the oil and all looks well. My distributor drive is set correctly by the keyway and the offset drive slot. The rotor appears to be correctly positioned at static timing, but the position of the distributor while running is quite off from the position at static timing. Mechanical advance? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Sat Nov 24 06:37:58 2007 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 08:37:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] source for nuts and bolts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <002001c82e9f$3d99b360$0301a8c0@chuck> Rich, Try www.macysgarage.com. He's got stainless steel hardware kits (specific to your car) for just about all your needs. Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: On Behalf Of Rich White Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 10:58 PM To: TR owners List Subject: [TR] source for nuts and bolts Listers, Back in 2002 there was a thread about the nuts and bolts required in a restoration. The web site www.rustfreeroadsters.com was listed as a source for a complete kit of fasteners. I exchanged some e-mail with the gentleman, but did not make any purchase. The site does not seem to be his anymore. Does anyone have any information about this source? Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA'63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat Nov 24 06:53:39 2007 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 07:53:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] source for nuts and bolts In-Reply-To: <002001c82e9f$3d99b360$0301a8c0@chuck> References: <002001c82e9f$3d99b360$0301a8c0@chuck> Message-ID: Chuck, That is what I was looking for. I wanted a kit of all the stuff needed. Try www.macysgarage.com. He's got stainless steel hardware kits (specific> to your car) for just about all your needs. Thanks,Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Nov 24 06:59:04 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 08:59:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] source for nuts and bolts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001101c82ea2$2ec87d50$210110ac@bobspc> Here's another source (http://www.boltdepot.com/) if you know what you need. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 10:58 PM To: TR owners List Subject: [TR] source for nuts and bolts Listers, Back in 2002 there was a thread about the nuts and bolts required in a restoration. The web site www.rustfreeroadsters.com was listed as a source for a complete kit of fasteners. I exchanged some e-mail with the gentleman, but did not make any purchase. The site does not seem to be his anymore. Does anyone have any information about this source?Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA'63 TR3B TCF587LThat ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!See it moves! This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM From wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net Sat Nov 24 07:20:43 2007 From: wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net (William Babbitt) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 06:20:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] source for nuts and bolts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <394757.57363.qm@web81012.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Rich, If you know what you're looking for, I've found McMaster-Carr to be an excellent source of stainless nuts and bolts. Bill Babbitt 1960 TR3a Rich White wrote: Listers, Back in 2002 there was a thread about the nuts and bolts required in a restoration. The web site www.rustfreeroadsters.com was listed as a source for a complete kit of fasteners. I exchanged some e-mail with the gentleman, but did not make any purchase. The site does not seem to be his anymore. Does anyone have any information about this source?Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA'63 TR3B TCF587LThat ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!See it moves! _______________________________________________ From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Nov 24 12:22:31 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 12:22:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] source for nuts and bolts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <474879F7.2000403@tscusa.org> Rich White wrote: > Listers, > Back in 2002 there was a thread about the nuts This list is a real good source for loose nuts too ... O:-) -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From cak at dimebank.com Sat Nov 24 14:37:13 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 13:37:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] loss of damper oil Message-ID: <200711242137.lAOLbDN9005384@moose.dimebank.com> Dave Massey gave you good instructions on replacing the O-ring ... but it might not (yet) be obvious that you can remove the piston by "simply" removing the dashpot cover and lifting out the entire assembly. A few things to note: - The four screws are pozidrive, not phillips. It matters. - Don't tear the diaphragm while removing it. - Note that there is a tab on the diaphragm to locate it properly. - Don't tear the diaphragm while removing it. - - Don't tear the diaphragm while replacing it. Best, chris From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat Nov 24 16:14:30 2007 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 17:14:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] source for nuts and bolts In-Reply-To: <474879F7.2000403@tscusa.org> References: <474879F7.2000403@tscusa.org> Message-ID: and some tight ones too! Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 12:22:31 -0700> From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org> To: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] source for nuts and bolts> > Rich White wrote:> > Listers,> > Back in 2002 there was a thread about the nuts > This list is a real good source for loose nuts too ... O:-)> > -- > Glenn A. Merrell> Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)> The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!> From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sat Nov 24 16:58:41 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 18:58:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: Auto shipping Message-ID: <000a01c82ef5$f0feba30$a4197247@fred8kwiskhcfu> This e-mail if from a friend in the "Freight Forwarding" business here in Virginia, hopes this might help. "FT" ============================================================================= =================================== Frede, It's very easy, all the steamship lines haul automobiles; all you need is the registration or title. They all have an 800# and web sites, costs are reasonable. I've never sent an automobile to England but have sent a Howitzer for BAE Systems. It had to travel on a flat rack because of it's weight and dimensions. The Ocean Liner will also do a door to door service if you don't have anyone on the other end. Marion Moon Director of Convention Sales 703-960-6644 703-518-4729 fax www.conventionfreightservices.com From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Nov 24 19:50:54 2007 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 21:50:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Imports at Carlisle Autox 2008 Message-ID: I have never been to Imports at Carlisle. Any of you folks participated in the autox they have at the event? Whats it like? I am kicking around the idea but it's a pretty good haul. Any of my fellow Triumphites going to be there running showing all them other foreign cars how it done? Marty Sukey _________________________________________________________________ Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista. + Windows Live. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_M ediaCtr_bigscreen_102007 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 25 00:33:04 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 23:33:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] loss of damper oil Message-ID: <31638827.1195975984284.JavaMail.root@web26> Chris is right, but ... > - The four screws are pozidrive, not phillips. It matters. Unless of course some DPO has replaced them with phillips. > - Don't tear the diaphragm while removing it. OTOH if it tears that easily, it was probably time to replace it anyway. New ones do not tear easily. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 25 04:54:20 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 06:54:20 EST Subject: [TR] loss of damper oil Message-ID: In a message dated 11/25/2007 2:33:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: OTOH if it tears that easily, it was probably time to replace it anyway. New ones do not tear easily Isn't that the truth. When they come in a rebuild kit they are stuffed in an envelope. I had to leave mine out on the counter for a couple of days so they would assume the original shape. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 25 10:53:39 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 9:53:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] loss of damper oil Message-ID: <23517694.1196013219457.JavaMail.root@web20> ---- james mc arthur wrote: > I need to drive the car approximately 15 miles so I am not inclined > to do anything very involved at this point. My problem is that all of the > damper oil in the front carb has disappeared. Jim, I think the solution has been covered; but no one mentioned that you can make your 15 mile drive without solving the problem. The oil in the damper only comes into play when you first open the throttle, so it won't damage anything to drive without it. The engine won't take throttle gracefully, but should run fine as long as you open the throttle slowly enough (or wait for it to pick up after opening it suddenly). Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 25 11:15:52 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 10:15:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator Conversion Bracket Problem Message-ID: <31074481.1196014552949.JavaMail.root@web20> ---- terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Not sure what you mean by "single point." Is that a reference to the upper bracket? Sorry, wrong term. I was referring to having the lower mount attached at only one point (engine front plate), the same configuration that Bill referred to as unsatisfactory. Best I can tell, the lack of rear mount allowed the alternator to vibrate and flop around. Had a terrible time keeping bolts tight, plus belts didn't last very long (even the heavy-duty Cummins belts). When I added a piece of pipe & a long bolt to engage the original rear generator mount, all the other problems disappeared. Randall - currently in the Garlic capital of the world :^) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Nov 25 11:24:28 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 11:24:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] loss of damper oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I carry a spare in my 'long ride' parts case. To keep it from assuming unnatural shapes, I use a little ZipLoc plastic container (sort of a small bowl) with a snap on lid that is just the size and shape to hold one. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: > > Isn't that the truth. When they come in a rebuild kit they are stuffed > in > an envelope. I had to leave mine out on the counter for a couple of days > so > they would assume the original shape. From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Nov 25 13:43:36 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:43:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] loss of damper oil References: Message-ID: <004601c82fa3$dad55d50$5918e247@DCS78M81> Are the diaphrams available as a lone part or only available in the rebuild kits? Tom From BearTranserv at aol.com Sun Nov 25 14:02:22 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 16:02:22 EST Subject: [TR] Charging Sytem Not Working - 74 TR6 - Fixed Message-ID: In a message dated 11/20/2007 8:26:15 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: He! Why not? We got snowed on today. O' course, we don't live in the desert sou'west. -- Jim Muller I so, and we got snow last night! Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Nov 25 15:33:34 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:33:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] loss of damper oil In-Reply-To: <004601c82fa3$dad55d50$5918e247@DCS78M81> References: <004601c82fa3$dad55d50$5918e247@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <211E5C9C6E4344D9BBF6EE8581584255@GeoPC> Singly they are Moss p/n 365-320 Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "THOMAS FANSHER" To: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" ; "TR List" Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 1:43 PM Subject: Re: [TR] loss of damper oil > Are the diaphrams available as a lone part or only available in the > rebuild kits? > Tom From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Nov 25 15:55:21 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 17:55:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] loss of damper oil References: <004601c82fa3$dad55d50$5918e247@DCS78M81> <211E5C9C6E4344D9BBF6EE8581584255@GeoPC> Message-ID: <000701c82fb6$42e5aa00$5918e247@DCS78M81> Thanks, a pair will go on my Christmas list. Tom From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Nov 25 18:31:59 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 20:31:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] T-day transportation report Message-ID: <20071125203159.ANY70345@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Greeetings. The better half and I travelled perhaps 1100 miles this weekend to visit my mom, siblings and their spouses, assorted nieces and nephews and their spouses, uncles and aunts, and other unclassifiable relatives. It is a T-day tradition we have not been able to participate in very often. The significant point of it is that we made the trip by train, specifically Amtrak from Rt128 Station to Ashland Virginia and back. We took business class because it provides guaranteed seats and also 120v outlets at those seats so we could watch movies or run my computer the entire trip. Alas, my laptop decided to break down (Sharon's portable DVD player ran like a champ!), but the rest of the trip was awesome. It took about 10 hours each way. By comparison, the fastest we've ever driven it was 10 hours and the slowest was about 14 hours. It was entirely stress free except for the first few minutes when we weren't sure we could get seats together. Compared to air travel, ah, there was no contest. None at all, zippo. No hassles, no strip searches or even removing shoes, no long lines, no putting tray tables and seat backs in their full upright and ocked positions. No seatbelts or seatbelt signs. Just a smooth, quiet ride on welded rails, stopping occasionally but generally running fast and arriving on time. Ashland, where one of my brothers lives, is a "quaint" and quiet town. The double tracks run right down the middle of the old town. Indeed, when you board the train there you have to listen for its arrival, then look down the tracks to see which set of tracks it is coming in on. Otherwise you could find yourself on the wrong side of the train and unable to get around to the open doors. LBC content: As we were going south through some place just north of NYC I saw parked in a little parking lot a beautiful TR6. Red, I think. Was one of yours perhaps? (I had to ask.) One the way back I spotted the hulk of a Spridget sitting all alone in a junk yard in or about New Rochelle, NY. When my family holds these T-day get-togethers they make a big deal, all in fun, about who is bringing what kind of pie. The pie-to-person ratio is known by everyone. It hasn't quite reached 3.14 yet, but it certainly is irrational. Transcendental too. It was a magical trip in so many ways. -- Jim Muller GT6, Spitfire jimmuller at rcn.com From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Mon Nov 26 06:41:02 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 07:41:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Peter Vucinic Message-ID: <200711261341.lAQDf9mk335974@ns3.geneseo.net> Trying to reach Peter -- please respond Sorry for bombing the list uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From tdskip at yahoo.com Mon Nov 26 08:02:48 2007 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 07:02:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? Message-ID: <68094.86153.qm@web55614.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Hi guys. I'll be in the UK next week and am I'm wondering what bit we can't get over here that will fit into a suitcase and do not weight a ton... Any especially desirable items for a TR3 or TR4 that come to mind? Thanks, Tom From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Mon Nov 26 08:24:51 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 07:24:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? References: <68094.86153.qm@web55614.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000e01c83040$7e14ed40$230110ac@MIKESDELL> One suggestion that you might want to consider... Take a picture of your car with you for airport security. Since 9-11 airport security gets real nervous when you have unidentifiable metal objects in your suitcase. I brought back some car parts from the UK a couple of years ago and was being given a through questioning until I remembered that I had a picture of my car in my wallet. Once I showed airport security the picture of the car and explained that I bought the parts in the UK because the parts were rather scarce in the US, the attitude of security changed completely. Then the only concern was if the parts contained any petroleum products that might explode. So, take a picture of your car and make sure the parts you bring back are clean of oil and petrol. Mike Denman . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Deutsch" To: Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 7:02 AM Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? > Hi guys. I'll be in the UK next week and am I'm wondering what bit we > can't get over here that will fit into a suitcase and do not weight a > ton... > > Any especially desirable items for a TR3 or TR4 that come to mind? > > Thanks, > > Tom > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Nov 26 10:15:56 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 12:15:56 EST Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? Message-ID: In a message dated 11/26/2007 7:23:25 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, mikedenman at sbcglobal.net writes: One suggestion that you might want to consider... Take a picture of your car with you for airport security. Since 9-11 airport security gets real nervous when you have unidentifiable metal objects in your suitcase. I brought back some car parts from the UK a couple of years ago and was being given a through questioning until I remembered that I had a picture of my car in my wallet. Once I showed airport security the picture of the car and explained that I bought the parts in the UK because the parts were rather scarce in the US, the attitude of security changed completely. Then the only concern was if the parts contained any petroleum products that might explode. So, take a picture of your car and make sure the parts you bring back are clean of oil and petrol. Mike Denman Ah Yes! If you should buy a stainless steel muffler set, and check the box it came in a baggage, you may notice the box is labelled "Stainless steel silencers". Now, if you make customs in Chicago, that box will cause you to meet a lot of very interesting people who you will find have a grate interest in Triumph exhaust systems. Mike Moore **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From dkspence at telus.net Mon Nov 26 11:07:48 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 11:07:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] posidrive vs phillips In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3766CCD8-C556-4C41-9110-AEACA81EC3AC@telus.net> Can someone please explain the difference? Can a phillips be moded to a posidrive? Where are posidrive tools available? TIA On 25-Nov-07, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > - The four screws are pozidrive, not phillips. It matters. From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Nov 26 11:27:37 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 13:27:37 EST Subject: [TR] posidrive vs phillips Message-ID: In a message dated 11/26/2007 1:08:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: Can someone please explain the difference? Can a phillips be moded to a posidrive? Where are posidrive tools available? here's a decent explanation: _http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidrive_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidrive) any place that carries a wide selection of tools should have pozidrive screwdrivers and bits - last place i got some was a local Northern tool - and they had a selection of sizes Cheers, Jack Mc **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From smacsjunk at hotmail.com Mon Nov 26 11:32:04 2007 From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 12:32:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] posidrive vs phillips In-Reply-To: <3766CCD8-C556-4C41-9110-AEACA81EC3AC@telus.net> References: <3766CCD8-C556-4C41-9110-AEACA81EC3AC@telus.net> Message-ID: The differences is in the shape of the slots. The Phillips slots are tapered, whereas the Posidrive slots are parallel sided. Posidrive is less likely to slip. A Phillips driver will not fit a Posidrive screw correctly and is forced out of the slots by the taper on the bit. Most good tool stores should have Posidrive bits (there are different sizes, just like Phillips); if you can't find one anywhere else, check a ski shop - ski bindings are fastened with posidrive screws (coached skiing for 20 years - ask me how many Phillips drivers I've ruined doing emergency binding repairs when there wasn't a posidrive at hand ). cheers Scott> From: dkspence at telus.net> Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 11:07:48 -0700> To: triumphs at autox.team.net> CC: cak at dimebank.com> Subject: Re: [TR] posidrive vs phillips> > Can someone please explain the difference? Can a phillips be moded to > a posidrive? Where are posidrive tools available?> TIA> > > On 25-Nov-07, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:> > > - The four screws are pozidrive, not phillips. It matters.> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _________________________________________________________________ Send a smile, make someone laugh, have some fun! Start now! http://www.freemessengeremoticons.ca/?icid=EMENCA122 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Nov 26 11:55:42 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 13:55:42 EST Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? Message-ID: I used to travel back and forth between the UK and USA frequently. I climb large parabolic antennas as part of my work. I also measure things with some hand tools. I also pick up Stag and TR parts and bring back. I once flew out of Leeds-Bradford International Airport. I had a flat map reading flashlight (a viewing lens with a handle holding 6 aaa cells side by side), my Rose body harness (for climbing) and a dial caliper. I was also beringing back a 1949 Triumph 1800 waterpump pulley for a friend. I was paged shortly after I checked in and was immediately escorted by two young muscular men, through a hidden doorway (looks like a piece of paneling) into a room with a number of other young and probably armed men. Crowded very close on either side, they had me carefully open my suitcase while it was being videotaped. It was being played back to a monitor which another person was watching out of my vision. I was grabbed and restrained several times by the two guys in either side of me when I moved too fast for them. After I opened the suitcase, they had me lift off the Rose body harness and hold it up; A voice said "That's the parachute". Then the dial caliper : "That's the timer". Then the map light "That's the detonator" Then the 1949 Triumph 1800 water pump pulley "That's the lump". I had stacked these all together on top of each other. The gentlemen were visibly relieved. I was told to always hand carry my dial indicator as the dial looked like a timer whenever it was xrayed. I lost it to the Lufthansa boys though after 911 in Frankfurt because they said it could be used as a weapon. Mike Moore **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From cak at dimebank.com Mon Nov 26 12:07:10 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 11:07:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] posidrive vs phillips In-Reply-To: <3766CCD8-C556-4C41-9110-AEACA81EC3AC@telus.net> References: <3766CCD8-C556-4C41-9110-AEACA81EC3AC@telus.net> Message-ID: <474B195E.3000504@dimebank.com> Don Spence wrote: > Can someone please explain the difference? Can a phillips be moded to a > posidrive? Where are posidrive tools available? I bought my Posidrive drivers from the Snap-On man, almost 20 years ago now. I bet you can find them elsewhere now. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Posidrive The difference is the depth of the slots. The fasteners are (subtly) marked to indicate Posi vs Phillips. From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Mon Nov 26 12:44:57 2007 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 14:44:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Posidrive vs Phillips In-Reply-To: Message-ID: If you have a Habor Fright near you, they have them. Look for the selections of driver bits that can be exchaged as tips in a screw driver. The better sets carry Posidrive - maybe 3 or 4 of the smaller sizes. Brian Jones TR4 1963 CT 14455L Valley Forge, PA From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Nov 26 14:23:08 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:23:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE540719CADFA174@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE540719CADFA174@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <000901c83072$8d3f73d0$210110ac@bobspc> I'm lucky in that a local TR6 owner friend has access to an engine crane that I'll be able to borrow. My concern is how much height do I need to pull the engine and tranny as a unit? I thought I was being smart by backing the car into the garage so I'd have lots of room up front by just opening the garage door. But opening the door limits headroom and leaves me 88". Is that sufficient? Also, does the car need to raised up at all? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 12:18 PM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Recommendation for a folding engine crane ? I wonder if anyone has a recommendation for a folding engine crane for around $150 or less that is known to be capable of removing a TR6 engine and tranny with OD. I have no practical limit wrt headroom but I do have space constraints. I checked with Taylor rental and they want $50 a day to rent a crane that I will probably need four times (removal, loading for transportation, unloading, installation) so in the end it will be more convenient and no more expensive to buy one as long as it collapses pretty good for storage. The main issue seems to be boom length to reach to a point above the rear engine lifting eye. Stan Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies! No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1151 - Release Date: 11/25/2007 4:24 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1151 - Release Date: 11/25/2007 4:24 PM From red_tr250 at hotmail.com Mon Nov 26 14:56:24 2007 From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:56:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance In-Reply-To: <000901c83072$8d3f73d0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE540719CADFA174@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <000901c83072$8d3f73d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Hi Bob, I think Harbor Freight currently has a 1-ton folding hoist for 100 bucks. If you live in a city with Entertainment books...you might be able to double dip depending upon who's workin' the register?? You'll need enough clearance to bring the enge & tranny out of the car plus the boom thickness & hook...plus what ever chains/leveler you use. It doesn't take very long so if you run into a snag, push the car out & get it out. You'll need to pull up & then out & keep doing that until it's out...at which time you can level it back out if it's on a leveler. I'd recoomend getting one whilst you're at harbor freight! They're pretty cheap. I couldn't tell you what over all clearance, but it might be tight Cheers, Todd > From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > To: stan.foster at hp.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:23:08 -0500 > Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance > > I'm lucky in that a local TR6 owner friend has access to an engine crane > that I'll be able to borrow. My concern is how much height do I need to pull > the engine and tranny as a unit? I thought I was being smart by backing the > car into the garage so I'd have lots of room up front by just opening the > garage door. But opening the door limits headroom and leaves me 88". Is that > sufficient? Also, does the car need to raised up at all? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On > Behalf Of Foster, Stan > Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 12:18 PM > To: 6pack > Subject: [6pack] Recommendation for a folding engine crane ? > > I wonder if anyone has a recommendation for a folding engine crane for > around $150 or less that is known to be capable of removing a TR6 engine and > tranny with OD. I have no practical limit wrt headroom but I do have space > constraints. > > I checked with Taylor rental and they want $50 a day to rent a crane that I > will probably need four times (removal, loading for transportation, > unloading, > installation) so in the end it will be more convenient and no more expensive > to buy one as long as it collapses pretty good for storage. > > The main issue seems to be boom length to reach to a point above the rear > engine lifting eye. > > Stan > _________________________________________________________________ You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the im Initiative now. From pryner at verizon.net Mon Nov 26 15:07:35 2007 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 17:07:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I'd recommend that you go with a 2 ton lift. I've seen them on sale for about the same price and they are significantly more stout. I know HF sells both and they go on sale all of the time. Pep boys normally has them on sale too. In this case I think more is better. Pete -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Todd Bermudez Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 4:56 PM To: Bob Danielson; 'Foster, Stan'; '6pack'; 'TR owners List' Subject: Re: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance Hi Bob, I think Harbor Freight currently has a 1-ton folding hoist for 100 bucks. If you live in a city with Entertainment books...you might be able to double dip depending upon who's workin' the register?? You'll need enough clearance to bring the enge & tranny out of the car plus the boom thickness & hook...plus what ever chains/leveler you use. It doesn't take very long so if you run into a snag, push the car out & get it out. You'll need to pull up & then out & keep doing that until it's out...at which time you can level it back out if it's on a leveler. I'd recoomend getting one whilst you're at harbor freight! They're pretty cheap. I couldn't tell you what over all clearance, but it might be tight Cheers, Todd > From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > To: stan.foster at hp.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:23:08 -0500 > Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance > > I'm lucky in that a local TR6 owner friend has access to an engine crane > that I'll be able to borrow. My concern is how much height do I need to pull > the engine and tranny as a unit? I thought I was being smart by backing the > car into the garage so I'd have lots of room up front by just opening the > garage door. But opening the door limits headroom and leaves me 88". Is that > sufficient? Also, does the car need to raised up at all? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From rbtr3a at cox.net Mon Nov 26 15:41:46 2007 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 17:41:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] joe curry Message-ID: <00d001c8307d$89fc55c0$6401a8c0@ronniej94vilm0> I'm looking for contact information for Joe Curry, Please contact me off line Ronnie babbitt From CarlSereda at aol.com Mon Nov 26 19:23:52 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 21:23:52 EST Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? Message-ID: RevingtonTR is the only company that correctly makes the TR4 CT15XXX and beyond 'lock washers' for the cross shafts on front trunnions - 4 required per car.. converts to about $US1.50 each and probably under an ounce each.. The 3 companies here in the states either tell you to go backward and use TR3 washers (then you have to distort the grease seals plus toss the seal shims) or they will sell you very poorly made TR4 ones that don't match in any of the 6 dimensions. I already have 4 brand new ones from RevingtonTR.. perfect OE match - anyone else need some? Regards and have a great trip! Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Hi guys. I'll be in the UK next week and am I'm wondering what bit we can't get over here that will fit into a suitcase and do not weight a ton... Any especially desirable items for a TR3 or TR4 that come to mind? Thanks, Tom ************************************** Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From wbeech at flash.net Mon Nov 26 19:31:41 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 19:31:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? In-Reply-To: <68094.86153.qm@web55614.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20071127023200.3AA9C1879D8@autox.team.net> Tom, Thanks for thinking of us. Bob Jahnke and I both need the small barrel-shaped cork seal that goes inside the our TR3 Ewerts fuel shut-off valve(the push-pull type). I am sure we would take two each if you find them. All the best, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Deutsch Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 8:03 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? Hi guys. I'll be in the UK next week and am I'm wondering what bit we can't get over here that will fit into a suitcase and do not weight a ton... Any especially desirable items for a TR3 or TR4 that come to mind? Thanks, Tom This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.8/1153 - Release Date: 11/26/2007 9:08 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.8/1153 - Release Date: 11/26/2007 9:08 PM From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Mon Nov 26 19:46:00 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 21:46:00 EST Subject: [TR] posidrive vs phillips Message-ID: Most if not all posidrive screws have a head marked with 4 lines. Each line is between the slots. Harold ************************************** Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Nov 26 21:16:45 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 23:16:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? References: <20071127023200.3AA9C1879D8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001701c830ac$52805770$50087247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Part # 104818C Moss U/K, order their cataloge, neat "FT" ====================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "wbeech" To: "'Tom Deutsch'" ; Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 9:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? > Tom, > > Thanks for thinking of us. Bob Jahnke and I both need the small > barrel-shaped cork seal that goes inside the our TR3 Ewerts fuel shut-off > valve(the push-pull type). I am sure we would take two each if you find > them. > > All the best, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom > Deutsch > Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 8:03 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? > > Hi guys. I'll be in the UK next week and am I'm wondering what bit we > can't > get over here that will fit into a suitcase and do not weight a ton... > > Any especially desirable items for a TR3 or TR4 that come to mind? > > Thanks, > > Tom > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.8/1153 - Release Date: > 11/26/2007 > 9:08 PM > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.8/1153 - Release Date: > 11/26/2007 > 9:08 PM > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Nov 26 21:50:12 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 23:50:12 EST Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? Message-ID: British fuses are a lot cheaper also. Mike Moore **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Nov 26 23:43:35 2007 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 22:43:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] Opinions ... Message-ID: Just finished installing the Narrow Belt Conversion Kit in Casper (1957 TR3), no real problems, and no I did not torque the water pump pulley over 15 lbs... The kit includes a "real" crankshaft dampner , it is a pretty hefty piece and went in as advertised. However ... you knew this was coming ... With the engine now running I can detect a little "wobble" on the dampner pulley, the shaft behind the pulley ie, crankshaft, seems to be running smooth and straight with no "wobble", of course is it much smaller in diameter and would not be as obvious. My rational is ... it is a crankshaft dampner, and that is what it is doing ... damping ... I hope .. All opinions considered ... Thanks for your time -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Tue Nov 27 03:40:11 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 05:40:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Imports at Carlisle Autox 2008 References: Message-ID: <004501c830e1$e51829c0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> I've run it off an on for years now. It's not an autocross, it's a mini-road course. Three laps per heat, three heats. The race itself is most interesting as a spectator just observing what runs around the course, and how they do. An MGTF last year for example, and a Citroen 2CV a few years ago. The training/practice sessions on Friday and usually Saturday are a terrific deal. You can run so much you need new tires and a refill on gasoline. You can get seat time with some of the others in the club sponsoring the event, and the club has some very hot drivers. I would not consider it worthwhile alone to do a long trip. But the show is a lot of fun, and the racing is good. As a package the event is worth coming to, at least in my opinion. ----- Original Message ----- From: "marty sukey" To: "6 Digest" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "FOT" ; "TriumphList" Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 9:50 PM Subject: [TR] Imports at Carlisle Autox 2008 >I have never been to Imports at Carlisle. Any of you folks participated in >the > autox they have at the event? Whats it like? I am kicking around the idea > but > it's a pretty good haul. Any of my fellow Triumphites going to be there > running showing all them other foreign cars how it done? > > Marty Sukey > > _________________________________________________________________ > Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista. + Windows Live. > http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_M > ediaCtr_bigscreen_102007 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From banc8004 at comcast.net Tue Nov 27 07:04:01 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 14:04:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A Gearbox Counterweight Message-ID: <112720071404.27358.474C23D10001308500006ADE2205886442CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> A part presented as a "Gearbox Counterweight" is on sale on ebay: http://tinyurl.com/ypb9up I have never heard mention of this part before. Does anyone recognise it? Given the small amounts of metal required to balance a propshaft, I'd have thought this 'lump o lead' attached to the drive shaft would cause massive vibration, not eliminate it. ...or am I missing something? Brian in Valley Forge TR4 1963 CT 14455 L From trglory at comcast.net Tue Nov 27 07:09:50 2007 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 09:09:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002001c830ff$2d04eb70$870ec250$@net> Stan; There are a lot of tools that are very handy to have when you need them but just cannot be cost-justified when you use them once every few years. Also, many of them are so bulky that you wonder what you are going to do with them after your project is finished. Our Triumph club has a tool shed filled with these kinds of items (engine hoist and leveler are part of the inventory). Any member of the club is free to use anything in the shed and then return it when they are finished. The tools are signed out and signed in, just like a library. You may want to check with your local club to see if they already have what you need. If not, you may want to start the process by donating your hoist to the club when you are done with it. That's how we started ours. Hmmmm.....do I remember a thread a few months ago where someone complained that there is no good reason to belong to a local car club? Different strokes for different folks, I guess. Joe Laurito Central PA Triumph Club -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Ryner Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 5:08 PM To: Todd Bermudez; Bob Danielson; 'Foster, Stan'; '6pack'; 'TR owners List' Subject: Re: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance I'd recommend that you go with a 2 ton lift. I've seen them on sale for about the same price and they are significantly more stout. I know HF sells both and they go on sale all of the time. Pep boys normally has them on sale too. In this case I think more is better. Pete No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.8/1153 - Release Date: 11/26/2007 9:08 PM From darrellw at ipns.com Tue Nov 27 07:43:22 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 06:43:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A Gearbox Counterweight In-Reply-To: <112720071404.27358.474C23D10001308500006ADE2205886442CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> References: <112720071404.27358.474C23D10001308500006ADE2205886442CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> Message-ID: <149E58A0-81E8-4D91-956C-65F3563A3863@ipns.com> Hi Brian, It doesn't go on the propshaft, rather on the tail of the transmission. I have one that I have not yet installed on my car, so I can't vouch for the effectiveness. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From JStasyszen at odmhsas.org Tue Nov 27 08:40:34 2007 From: JStasyszen at odmhsas.org (Stasyszen, Jerry) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 09:40:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I got the 1 ton from HF and it works perfectly fine. If you are going to use it specifically for Triumphs and small cars the 1 ton is all you need. If you are going to pull 6 and 8 cylinder engines it is probably best to go with a 2 ton. Jerry -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jstasyszen=odmhsas.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jstasyszen=odmhsas.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Ryner Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 4:08 PM To: Todd Bermudez; Bob Danielson ; 'Foster, Stan' ; '6pack'; 'TR owners List' Subject: Re: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance I'd recommend that you go with a 2 ton lift. I've seen them on sale for about the same price and they are significantly more stout. I know HF sells both and they go on sale all of the time. Pep boys normally has them on sale too. In this case I think more is better. Pete -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Todd Bermudez Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 4:56 PM To: Bob Danielson; 'Foster, Stan'; '6pack'; 'TR owners List' Subject: Re: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance Hi Bob, I think Harbor Freight currently has a 1-ton folding hoist for 100 bucks. If you live in a city with Entertainment books...you might be able to double dip depending upon who's workin' the register?? You'll need enough clearance to bring the enge & tranny out of the car plus the boom thickness & hook...plus what ever chains/leveler you use. It doesn't take very long so if you run into a snag, push the car out & get it out. You'll need to pull up & then out & keep doing that until it's out...at which time you can level it back out if it's on a leveler. I'd recoomend getting one whilst you're at harbor freight! They're pretty cheap. I couldn't tell you what over all clearance, but it might be tight Cheers, Todd > From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > To: stan.foster at hp.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:23:08 -0500 > Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance > > I'm lucky in that a local TR6 owner friend has access to an engine crane > that I'll be able to borrow. My concern is how much height do I need to pull > the engine and tranny as a unit? I thought I was being smart by backing the > car into the garage so I'd have lots of room up front by just opening the > garage door. But opening the door limits headroom and leaves me 88". Is that > sufficient? Also, does the car need to raised up at all? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Tue Nov 27 09:03:04 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 09:03:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Choke Cable Anchor - SU Carbs Message-ID: I discovered this morning that I have lost the anchor holding the choke cable to the SU carbs. I discovered this when I pulled about a foot of choke cable into the car when I went to start the car. This is the first time I've tried to use the choke since before summer. I looked around to make sure it had not just come off but it was nowhere to be found. I did not see one in the big 3's catalogs. Any suggestions on where I can source one? I did manage to get the 6 started and drive to work. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Nov 27 09:16:46 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 11:16:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Choke Cable Anchor - SU Carbs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001301c83110$ec0ea680$210110ac@bobspc> Marty, Are you talking about the clip? Moss part# 365-520? They're only $1.75 but you'll probably get killed on shipping. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Marty Clark Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 11:03 AM To: Triumph Email List; 6pack Subject: [TR] Choke Cable Anchor - SU Carbs I discovered this morning that I have lost the anchor holding the choke cable to the SU carbs. I discovered this when I pulled about a foot of choke cable into the car when I went to start the car. This is the first time I've tried to use the choke since before summer. I looked around to make sure it had not just come off but it was nowhere to be found. I did not see one in the big 3's catalogs. Any suggestions on where I can source one? I did manage to get the 6 started and drive to work. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.8/1153 - Release Date: 11/26/2007 9:08 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.8/1153 - Release Date: 11/26/2007 9:08 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 27 09:19:48 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 08:19:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A Gearbox Counterweight In-Reply-To: <112720071404.27358.474C23D10001308500006ADE2205886442CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20071127161948.VMUN7495.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > I have never heard mention of this part before. Does anyone > recognise it? Yup, got one in the parts bin. It was fitted to some TR4s, supposedly in an attempt to solve an annoying buzz from the gearshift lever (only on some cars only at certain rpm, I would guess). According to the SPC, only fitted from gearbox CT17815 to CT35719. It's actually cast iron rather than lead, and there is supposed to be a rubber bushing in the center (likely missing from the one on eBay). As noted, it goes on the back of the housing, so it doesn't rotate. Strictly non-essential, IMO, unless you expect a very well-informed concours judge to be crawling under the car. Randall From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Nov 27 09:20:27 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 16:20:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] New tool. In-Reply-To: <149E58A0-81E8-4D91-956C-65F3563A3863@ipns.com> References: <112720071404.27358.474C23D10001308500006ADE2205886442CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> <149E58A0-81E8-4D91-956C-65F3563A3863@ipns.com> Message-ID: I saw a new tool at the parts house recently. It is a flexible light attached to a digital monitor. The tip of the light has a camera in it and displays the image of what it is pointed at on the monitor. Trick way to see those unreachable places. Cost is $225.00 +. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/connect.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_newways_112007 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 27 10:07:04 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 09:07:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance In-Reply-To: <000901c83072$8d3f73d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20071127170704.SXFN12282.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> Bob, We did a TR6 with my 2-ton HF crane; 88" sounds very tight to me. Whether it works or not may depend on how close you can get the boom tied to the engine; and also on what means you have to tilt the engine as it comes out. Might work out with one of these http://www.tools-4-you.co.uk/Automotive/loadleveller.htm but I don't think the lash-up we used (conceptually similar to the Oberg "Tilt Lift") http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=31286 would have cleared. As I recall, we had to do some prep work under the car, but set it down on it's wheels when actually lifting the engine out. Did it with the car nose-in to the garage (so crane arm could go up in front of the door), then rolled the car back out from under the engine as it came up out of the car. BTW, I believe the 2-ton has a longer "reach" than the 1-ton (eg you can slide the boom out farther and still have the capacity to lift a TR motor). Plus my "non-folding" version actually fits into less floor space for storage than the "folding" version does. By removing 4 bolts (one of which I replaced with a clevis pin), it separates into 3 major pieces, each of which I can lift by myself. I keep them stacked on end (tied with a rope in case of earthquakes) in the corner of the garage. Randall From BearTranserv at aol.com Tue Nov 27 10:15:16 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 12:15:16 EST Subject: [TR] Choke Cable Anchor - SU Carbs Message-ID: In a message dated 11/27/2007 9:03:30 AM Mountain Standard Time, marty.tr6 at gmail.com writes: Any suggestions on where I can source one? I did manage to get the 6 started and drive to work. I'd check at my local bicycle shop. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 27 10:21:39 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 09:21:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071127172139.QLVA18101.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > and make sure the > parts you bring back are clean of oil and petrol. Indeed, they had best not even smell of oil or petrol. The fine folks at Indy weren't going to let my used fuel pump on the plane (even as checked luggage) until two different supervisors agreed that it didn't even smell of fuel. Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Nov 27 10:32:36 2007 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 11:32:36 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Choke Cable Anchor - SU Carbs Message-ID: <9599013.12438701196184756392.JavaMail.root@vms061.mailsrvcs.net> TRF part number 516962. Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 >From: BearTranserv at aol.com >Date: 2007/11/27 Tue AM 11:15:16 CST >To: marty.tr6 at gmail.com, Triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] Choke Cable Anchor - SU Carbs >In a message dated 11/27/2007 9:03:30 AM Mountain Standard Time, >marty.tr6 at gmail.com writes: > >Any suggestions on where I can source one? I did >manage to get the 6 started and drive to work. > > > > >I'd check at my local bicycle shop. > >Robert B. Houston >Texan in New Mexico > >63 TR4 > >As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg >carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, >perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced >hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and >adjusted as >described in chapter seven of the shop manual. >Dan McKay > > > > > > > >**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest >products. >(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From pethier at comcast.net Tue Nov 27 10:53:27 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 17:53:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance Message-ID: <112720071753.13090.474C59970007D3CB0000332222007347489D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Joe Laurito" > Hmmmm.....do I remember a thread a few months ago where someone complained > that there is no good reason to belong to a local car club? Indeed. If you are restoring or rehabbing an old car and there is a local marque club, you'd be pretty foolish not to join. Just the ability to come up with a similar car to LOOK at is worth the price of admission. When I was working on my Lotus, having access to Terry Pitts' Lotus to measure was a lifesaver. From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue Nov 27 11:22:11 2007 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 13:22:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have no financial interest in this auction, but I just thought I'd point out a TR4 auction on ebay. 1962; 89,000 miles; overdrive; white metal dash; steel wheels. Its offered at a start bid of $200, and 'Buy it now' at $5,900. This seems low compared to recent auctions, especially as the gearbox may be worth over $1500 on its own. Its has an modern alternator and narrow belt conversion. The OD control may be off a 250 or 6, so maybe the OD is as well. The rocker cover and air filters are aftermarket parts. The fuel line takes an odd path, and it's inherited a brake switch at the master cyclinder from a later model. Panel fit seems good, from what I can tell by small pictures. The interior looks decent. The rad may have an overflow added (something is going on there) and there are some add-on electrics by the RH horn, probably to drive an electric fan that will be replacing the original puller. Its in Ridgeland SC. if anyone is looking for a TR4 with OD, this might be appealing. Seems good value for under $6k, if as good as it appears. http://tinyurl.com/3b5er9 Cheers, Brian in Valley Forge 1963 TR4 CT14455L From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Nov 27 12:21:08 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 12:21:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance In-Reply-To: <002001c830ff$2d04eb70$870ec250$@net> References: <002001c830ff$2d04eb70$870ec250$@net> Message-ID: Or do like our club and have a virtual tool crib. Members identify & post things they are willing to lend (there are guidelines & rules). Some things (e.g. a 20 ton press) are best borrowed in situ. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Laurito" To: "'Foster, Stan'" ; "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "'TR owners List'" Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 7:09 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance >...If not, you may want to start the process by donating your hoist to the >club when you are done with it. That's how we started ours. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Nov 27 12:25:18 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 12:25:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Choke Cable Anchor - SU Carbs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <58ACF85011C44146B88975B2686A1F7D@GeoPC> Prior to this were you able to lock your choke knob at various positions and then release it with a quater-turn? That's how TR3s & 4s are supposed to work but there is a little crescent-shaped piece that will usually fall out if the cable is withdrawn more than a couple of inches. It's only 3/16" by 1/16" so it is easy to miss but if found can be reinserted to preserve the locking feature. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marty Clark" To: "Triumph Email List" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 9:03 AM Subject: [TR] Choke Cable Anchor - SU Carbs >I discovered this morning that I have lost the anchor holding the choke > cable to the SU carbs. I discovered this when I pulled about a foot of > choke > cable into the car... From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Nov 27 12:41:37 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 12:41:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Something odd here. The 'buy it now' does not appear on the search result listing (it should): http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/tr-4_W0QQ_nkwZtrQ2d4QQ_pgnZ2 ...and when I look at the actual listing the 'buy it now' pops in only after the listing has almost completed loading. I have heard of listings being highjacked by a 3rd party inserting a phoney 'buy it now'. In any case it is a very early TR4 (CT501) and looks nice enough in the photos that I would think it would end up well north of 5900. I see no OD switch on there. The rad is the later TR4 or 4A style to which the addition of an overflow/recovery is so easy to do it is a pretty common thing. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 11:22 AM Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction >I have no financial interest in this auction, but I just thought I'd point > out a TR4 auction on ebay. > > 1962; 89,000 miles; overdrive; white metal dash; steel wheels. Its offered > at a start bid of $200, and 'Buy it now' at $5,900. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 27 12:42:08 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 11:42:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] Choke Cable Anchor - SU Carbs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <09f701c8312d$98fe6f80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I discovered this morning that I have lost the anchor holding > the choke > cable to the SU carbs. Purely as a stop-gap measure, Marty, a plastic tie-wrap will work. Just be sure to have the cable housing in the right position to synchronize the chokes, when you tighten the tie-wrap. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 27 12:44:45 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 11:44:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] Opinions ... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <09f801c8312d$f6a6b930$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > With the engine now running I can detect a little "wobble" on the > dampner pulley, the shaft behind the pulley ie, crankshaft, seems to > be running smooth and straight with no "wobble", of course is it much > smaller in diameter and would not be as obvious. > My rational is ... it is a crankshaft dampner, and that is what > it is doing ... damping ... I hope .. IMO, it's supposed to be a torsional dampener, meaning you shouldn't be able to see the deflection as it dampens. One way to find out would be to look at the clearance between the pulley and the timing pointer (or fabricate a temporary pointer from coat hangar wire) as you turn the engine by hand. Randall From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Nov 27 12:44:26 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 12:44:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction Message-ID: In fact now that I look closely... the whole area where the price & buy it now appear is slightly off color and poorly aligned to the point it actually overlaps the photo of the item. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-Triumph-TR-4-1962-Triumph-TR-4_W0QQitemZ300176550273QQihZ020QQcategoryZ6469QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem A clever scam poorly executed. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 12:41 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 with OD auction > Something odd here. The 'buy it now' does not appear on the search result > listing (it should): From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 27 12:55:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 11:55:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <09f901c8312f$84368a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Something odd here. The 'buy it now' does not appear on the > search result > listing (it should): Not sure, but that may have something to do with the "pre-approved buyers only" condition. I've not seen that before; seems like a good device to be sure you get bottom dollar for your car. Zero feedback for seller even though he signed up 4 months ago; cash or cashier's check only; no license plates on the car ... I'd sure want to check with the SC DMV to see who is the registered owner. Randall From dkspence at telus.net Tue Nov 27 13:04:51 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 13:04:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A Gearbox Counterweight In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9AFB7D80-D9BA-400D-B30C-8C607870DBA5@telus.net> It's stock and is attached to the rear end of the gearbox extension, hanging down. I can take a pic of mine if you like as it is currently out of the car. On 27-Nov-07, at 9:21 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: banc8004 at comcast.net > Date: November 27, 2007 7:04:01 AM MST (CA) > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A Gearbox Counterweight > > > A part presented as a "Gearbox Counterweight" is on sale on ebay: > http://tinyurl.com/ypb9up > > I have never heard mention of this part before. Does anyone > recognise it? > > Given the small amounts of metal required to balance a propshaft, > I'd have thought this 'lump o lead' attached to the drive shaft > would cause massive vibration, not eliminate it. > > ...or am I missing something? > > Brian in Valley Forge > TR4 1963 > CT 14455 L From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue Nov 27 15:20:05 2007 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 17:20:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Geo: I see what you mean about the page. It doesn't look right, does it? I have emailed ebay security with the issues and asked them to check it out. Brian From tom.wags at gmail.com Tue Nov 27 15:42:29 2007 From: tom.wags at gmail.com (Tom Wagner) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 16:42:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge - 72 TR6 Message-ID: <4e74fbc30711271442q10be82b3vef174f5b4610717a@mail.gmail.com> To All: I found out that all my daily driving over gravel roads caused the connection on the temperature guage to come loose. So you could say this taught me a lesson to look at the obvious first. My Thanks goes out to Randall and Phil for all the suggestions that they gave me. -- Tom Wagner 72 TR 6 67 MGB Gravette, AR 72736 From tom.wags at gmail.com Tue Nov 27 15:47:04 2007 From: tom.wags at gmail.com (Tom Wagner) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 16:47:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 - Oil in Exhaust Message-ID: <4e74fbc30711271447t31f73053yf550608d2bf8892@mail.gmail.com> To All: I have a problem that I can not seem to find the answer to and that is when the car starts in the morning there is oil in the exhaust(As it sprays all over my garage door). I have gone through about 1-2 quarts per tank of gas. Now some of it does leak out as I know I have a small leak around the valve cover gasket. The rebuilt engine has 10,000 miles on a new rings, new valves and guides, but I can not seem to find any other place where the oil is going too, or how I can use so much in a short period of time. Any help would be appreciated, as this may end up being a major winter project here in the western Ozarks. Thanks in advance for all the help. -- Tom Wagner 72 TR 6 67 MGB Gravette, AR 72736 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 27 10:18:08 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 09:18:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hard to find bits for TR3/TR4 to bring back from the UK? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071127171808.QEGZ18101.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I lost it to > the Lufthansa boys though after 911 in Frankfurt because they > said it could be used as a weapon. Those boys in Frankfurt have always been zealous ... many years before 9-11, I went through there with a large travel-case packed with computer paraphernalia, including a protocol analyzer and some 9-track tapes; plus my usual suitcase of clothes, etc. Was very tired (it had been a long trip), so when they asked me if there was any electronic equipment in my suitcase, it never dawned on me that they meant the travel case ! I was hustled by some armed, burly men to a very small building some distance out on the tarmac from the airport, and put in a room with my travel case and a very nervous looking guard on the other side of a 2" thick Plexiglas wall. Then told (by loudspeaker) to open the case and show the contents to the guard. After that, they chided me for holding up the plane ! Randall From motorcarriage at charter.net Tue Nov 27 16:08:50 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 18:08:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction References: <09f901c8312f$84368a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <01fe01c8314a$791af590$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> I noticed the Auction page came in funny myself. I'm not sure how a con job could have anything to do with that, there's only one way to post an eBay Auction. The first thing I noticed was there wasn't the "Watch this Item" function visible. Is there anyone out in this guy's area that could contact seller and check it out to help add a little credibility to the auction. I figured someone would of grabbed it by now. Then confirm everything's ok when they have to come up with the moolah. Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 2:55 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 with OD auction >> Something odd here. The 'buy it now' does not appear on the >> search result >> listing (it should): > > Not sure, but that may have something to do with the "pre-approved buyers > only" condition. > > I've not seen that before; seems like a good device to be sure you get > bottom dollar for your car. > > Zero feedback for seller even though he signed up 4 months ago; cash or > cashier's check only; no license plates on the car ... I'd sure want to > check with the SC DMV to see who is the registered owner. > > Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 27 16:20:39 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 15:20:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 - Oil in Exhaust In-Reply-To: <4e74fbc30711271447t31f73053yf550608d2bf8892@mail.gmail.com> References: <4e74fbc30711271447t31f73053yf550608d2bf8892@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <0a0801c8314c$1fcc3010$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > The rebuilt engine has 10,000 miles on a new rings, new valves and > guides, but I can not seem to find any other place where the oil is > going too, or how I can use so much in a short period of time. Tom, do you by any chance have the "external oil feed" modification ? Excess oil burning is a common complaint, caused by too much oil on top of the head. Otherwise, I'd be looking at emissions plumbing, valve guides, and rings, in roughly that order. Try pulling off the crankcase breather and see if there is oil going through it. Perhaps you can get someone to follow you and comment on when they see blue smoke. Yes, I know you had all that stuff 'done', but obviously something is wrong. Sometimes the magic works, and sometimes it doesn't. Don't know offhand if a TR6 had one, but a Stag has an "oil trap" built into the valve cover. HTH Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Nov 27 17:16:58 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 19:16:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction In-Reply-To: <01fe01c8314a$791af590$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> References: <09f901c8312f$84368a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <01fe01c8314a$791af590$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Message-ID: <200711271916.58581.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Does anyone have the ebay item # for this car? I cant seem to find the car in question with any search. Bob From motorcarriage at charter.net Tue Nov 27 16:32:13 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 18:32:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 - Oil in Exhaust Message-ID: <021001c8314d$bd8b87a0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Sounds very disturbing indeed. Obviously sounds like Blowby. How is your Crankcase pressure when you remove the Oil Fill Cap? I hate to be a pessimist but it sounds like a broken Ring or very loose Guides that would only do that after a lot of pooling in your head. If an Oil spray makes it all the way to the rear of the Tailpipes, it must be very well concentrated at the front. Sounds like a Compression / Leakdown Test might be in order. I'm surprised there isn't other symptoms like in the way she's running. Wayne > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tom Wagner" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 5:47 PM > Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 - Oil in Exhaust > > >> To All: >> >> I have a problem that I can not seem to find the answer to and that is >> when the car starts in the morning there is oil in the exhaust(As it >> sprays all over my garage door). I have gone through about 1-2 quarts >> per tank of gas. Now some of it does leak out as I know I have a >> small leak around the valve cover gasket. >> >> The rebuilt engine has 10,000 miles on a new rings, new valves and >> guides, but I can not seem to find any other place where the oil is >> going too, or how I can use so much in a short period of time. >> >> Any help would be appreciated, as this may end up being a major winter >> project here in the western Ozarks. >> >> Thanks in advance for all the help. >> >> -- >> Tom Wagner >> 72 TR 6 >> 67 MGB >> Gravette, AR 72736 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Nov 27 16:41:11 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 16:41:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction In-Reply-To: <01fe01c8314a$791af590$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> References: <09f901c8312f$84368a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <01fe01c8314a$791af590$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Message-ID: <55F6E759C01B457B8EAC5AC9B3A53BF8@GeoPC> Scammers/hackers have found a way to overlay the current price area on a listing with their own graphic showing current price and a 'buy it now'. When you click on the 'buy it now' feature you get routed to the scammer who takes it from there. BTW -- the listing is now gone. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne Lee" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 4:08 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 with OD auction >I noticed the Auction page came in funny myself. I'm not sure how a con job > could > have anything to do with that, there's only one way to post an eBay > Auction. > The first > thing I noticed was there wasn't the "Watch this Item" function visible. > Is > there anyone > out in this guy's area that could contact seller and check it out to help > add a little credibility to the auction. > I figured someone would of grabbed it by now. Then confirm everything's ok > when they have to come up with the moolah. > > Wayne > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randall" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 2:55 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 with OD auction > > >>> Something odd here. The 'buy it now' does not appear on the >>> search result >>> listing (it should): >> >> Not sure, but that may have something to do with the "pre-approved buyers >> only" condition. >> >> I've not seen that before; seems like a good device to be sure you get >> bottom dollar for your car. >> >> Zero feedback for seller even though he signed up 4 months ago; cash or >> cashier's check only; no license plates on the car ... I'd sure want to >> check with the SC DMV to see who is the registered owner. >> >> Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 27 16:42:13 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 15:42:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction In-Reply-To: <200711271916.58581.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <09f901c8312f$84368a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><01fe01c8314a$791af590$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> <200711271916.58581.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <0a1901c8314f$22d71ec0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Does anyone have the ebay item # for this car? I believe it was 300176550273 but that is no longer a valid number. Apparently it was a scam, and eBay responded by pulling the auction. Randall From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Nov 27 17:17:21 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 17:17:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 - Oil in Exhaust In-Reply-To: <021001c8314d$bd8b87a0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> References: <021001c8314d$bd8b87a0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Message-ID: <9C88F55B311F47B99A25EBA2C8DAB13B@GeoPC> Couldn't it be that the rings have never seated? Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne Lee" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 4:32 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 72 TR6 - Oil in Exhaust > Sounds very disturbing indeed. Obviously sounds like Blowby... From fishplate at charter.net Tue Nov 27 17:35:42 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 19:35:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 - Oil in Exhaust In-Reply-To: <4e74fbc30711271447t31f73053yf550608d2bf8892@mail.gmail.com > References: <4e74fbc30711271447t31f73053yf550608d2bf8892@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20071128003541.WFL17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 05:47 PM 11/27/2007, Tom Wagner wrote: >I have a problem that I can not seem to find the answer to and that is >when the car starts in the morning there is oil in the exhaust(As it >sprays all over my garage door). Just thinking out loud...are you sure it's oil, and not soot from the exhaust mixed with condensation? Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/ Athens, Georgia #354 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.9/1155 - Release Date: 11/27/2007 8:30 PM From tom628 at verizon.net Tue Nov 27 18:39:14 2007 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 20:39:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 - Oil in Exhaust References: <4e74fbc30711271447t31f73053yf550608d2bf8892@mail.gmail.com> <20071128003541.WFL17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <006601c8315f$7c67f120$2f01a8c0@Toms> Tom: Have you looked at the plugs? Is it isolated to one cyl. or ar all plugs showing evidence of oil burning (or, possibly overrich, as Jeff suggests)? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Scarbrough" To: "Tom Wagner" ; Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 7:35 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 72 TR6 - Oil in Exhaust > At 05:47 PM 11/27/2007, Tom Wagner wrote: > >>I have a problem that I can not seem to find the answer to and that is >>when the car starts in the morning there is oil in the exhaust(As it >>sprays all over my garage door). > > Just thinking out loud...are you sure it's oil, and not soot from the > exhaust mixed with condensation? > > > > Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 > http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/ > Athens, Georgia #354 > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.9/1155 - Release Date: > 11/27/2007 8:30 PM > _______________________________________________ From dkspence at telus.net Tue Nov 27 19:30:10 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 19:30:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: it's gone. Obviously a fraud. Happens regularly on Craig's List. A car with a black book value of $30K listed for $5900. Usually in a warehouse somewhere with an overseas owner who had to move suddenly and couldn't take it with him/her. On Nov 27, 2007, at 4:09 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > TR4 with OD auction From wbeech at flash.net Tue Nov 27 19:51:41 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 19:51:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Choke Cable Anchor - SU Carbs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071128025159.92571187A0A@autox.team.net> Or motorcycle shop, these were sometimes used where the soldiered cable ends were not available. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BearTranserv at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 10:15 AM To: marty.tr6 at gmail.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Choke Cable Anchor - SU Carbs In a message dated 11/27/2007 9:03:30 AM Mountain Standard Time, marty.tr6 at gmail.com writes: Any suggestions on where I can source one? I did manage to get the 6 started and drive to work. I'd check at my local bicycle shop. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.9/1155 - Release Date: 11/27/2007 8:30 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.9/1155 - Release Date: 11/27/2007 8:30 PM From BearTranserv at aol.com Tue Nov 27 21:31:10 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 23:31:10 EST Subject: [TR] TR4 with OD auction Message-ID: In a message dated 11/27/2007 4:29:08 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: Does anyone have the ebay item # for this car? I cant seem to find the car in question with any search. Bob The auction has been pulled.... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Nov 27 18:42:01 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 20:42:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 - Oil in Exhaust In-Reply-To: <9C88F55B311F47B99A25EBA2C8DAB13B@GeoPC> References: <021001c8314d$bd8b87a0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> <9C88F55B311F47B99A25EBA2C8DAB13B@GeoPC> Message-ID: <200711272042.02237.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 27 November 2007 07:17 pm, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > Couldn't it be that the rings have never seated? > > Geo > When I started my TR3 rebuilt engine way back when, I remember it taking awhile before the rings seated. But I dont recall any oil actually dripping out of the exhaust. Lots of blue smoke but once the rings seated it was like someone turned off the light switch, no smoke and the plugs stopped getting all fouled up. It was a long time ago, but I would remember oil dripping out of the exhaust pipe during the ring seating process. Wouldnt any oil getting into the combustion chamber be burned off and result in a very blue smoke out the exhaust? And if it isn't getting burned off the oil would have to be entering the chamber only on the exhaust stroke? How could this be possible? Or is so much oil entering the chamber that on compression and combustion, that gets burned up and on the following firing and exhaust stroke sucks in the oil from the valve guides and pushes it out the exhaust? Sounds like a compression test is in order. BTW, are the plugs oil fouled? Bob From JStasyszen at odmhsas.org Wed Nov 28 07:26:50 2007 From: JStasyszen at odmhsas.org (Stasyszen, Jerry) Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 08:26:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Over Drive Question In-Reply-To: <0a1901c8314f$22d71ec0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <09f901c8312f$84368a90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><01fe01c8314a$791af590$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> <200711271916.58581.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <0a1901c8314f$22d71ec0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Hello all, I have a J Type overdrive I am going to install in my 76 Spitfire. It has a wiring harness attached to it but none of the wires are hooked up. There are two solenoids on the transmission, one below the gear shifter that is a three inch cylindrical solenoid with two male wire poles that are not marked another smaller pancake looking solenoid on top of the transmission that also has two male wiring poles that are not marked. Can anyone tell me which wires go where, I am not even sure if the wiring harness is the correct one. The overdrive is from a 77 spit with UK markings FRXXXXX. Thanks Jerry From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 28 08:57:36 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 07:57:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] Over Drive Question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071128155736.VJSV18101.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > There are two solenoids on the transmission, one below the > gear shifter that is a three inch cylindrical solenoid with > two male wire poles that are not marked That's the real solenoid. Doesn't matter which terminal is which, either one can go to ground. > another smaller > pancake looking solenoid on top of the transmission that also > has two male wiring poles that are not marked. That isn't a solenoid, it's a "lockout" switch that prevents the OD from being engaged in any gear except 3rd or 4th. It's function is especially important, because backing up with the OD engaged can destroy the OD. > Can anyone > tell me which wires go where, Not sure what your harness looks like. But basically, there needs to be an operating switch somewhere within reach of the driver (I think a 76 Spit would originally have had a special shift knob with the switch built into the knob). That switch gets power from the white (or green) circuit (ie hot only when the ignition is on). Then a wire runs from the operating switch to the lockout switch on top of the transmission. Another wire from the lockout switch to the solenoid; and yet another from the solenoid to ground. For both switches and the solenoid, it doesn't matter which terminal is which, just one wire per terminal. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Nov 28 09:06:52 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 11:06:52 EST Subject: [TR] Over Drive Question Message-ID: In a message dated 11/28/2007 8:27:41 AM Central Standard Time, JStasyszen at odmhsas.org writes: > Hello all, I have a J Type overdrive I am going to install in my 76 > Spitfire. > It has a wiring harness attached to it but none of the wires are hooked up. > There are two solenoids on the transmission, one below the gear shifter that > is a three inch cylindrical solenoid with two male wire poles that are not > marked another smaller pancake looking solenoid on top of the transmission > that also has two male wiring poles that are not marked. Can anyone tell me > which wires go where, I am not even sure if the wiring harness is the > correct > one. That part on the top of the transmission is a lock-out switch. It will close whenever the gear selector is in 3rd or 4th gear. This will enable the solenoid and engage the overdrive (if the switch in the knob is closed). This will prevent overdrive engagement in 1st, 2nd or reverse. This switch should be wired in series with the solenoid. I don't have the Spitfire schematic handy but it should show how these three items are interconnected. You can compare your harness against the wiring diagram and determine if it is correct. Cheers Dave From fishplate at charter.net Wed Nov 28 09:29:33 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 8:29:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] Over Drive Question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071128112933.TQ3NK.47178.root@fepweb01> ---- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > I don't have the Spitfire schematic handy http://triumphspitfire.com/wiring.html Jeff Scarbrough Barn Full Of LBCs, Ga. From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Nov 28 09:34:37 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 11:34:37 EST Subject: [TR] [Spits] Over Drive Question ???? Message-ID: In a message dated 11/28/2007 9:46:26 AM Eastern Standard Time, ptegler at cablespeed.com writes: > This forces the O/D > to > drop out in 1st/2nd gears as the torque/drive can wreck the o/d in the lower > and > reverse gears. > Humm, The way things ended up with my GT6+ OD I have overdrive in 1st & 2nd, reverse is locked out. I did not ask for it that way for it is for sure not normal. We had trouble finding the bracket that goes up front on the early OD's. I don't use OD in those gears but I thought about trying it out during autocrossing. I guess that would be a bad thing Huh? I have accidentally gone in a few times. torque/drive ???? Darrell ************************************** Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Nov 28 10:53:01 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (JOHN MACARTNEY) Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 17:53:01 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009 Message-ID: <707752.26365.qm@web86004.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Listers There are revisions to the event website at www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk that may be of interest. The site is hopefully easier to navigate There is a FREE download of the presentation made by Glenn Merrell at TRIUMPHEST 2007 If you want to be kept informed of developments - without having to bookmark the site - click on the "Stay Informed" link in the left hand sidebar and fill in your details. You'll get updates from us on a regular basis. Cheers, Jonmac From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Nov 28 13:38:56 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 15:38:56 EST Subject: [TR] Over Drive Question Message-ID: In a message dated 11/28/2007 10:29:53 AM Central Standard Time, fishplate at charter.net writes: > http://triumphspitfire.com/wiring.html Cool. OK, all three are the same as far as the overdrive is concerned. It looks like power is picked up at the reverse lamp switch, goes to the slide switch in the shifter knob and then to the inhibit (lock-out) switch and finally to the solenoid. Pretty bloody simple. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Nov 28 13:46:01 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 15:46:01 EST Subject: [TR] [Spits] Over Drive Question ???? Message-ID: In a message dated 11/28/2007 10:35:59 AM Central Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > Humm, The way things ended up with my GT6+ OD I have overdrive in 1st &2nd, > > reverse is locked out. I did not ask for it that way for it is for sure not > normal. We had trouble finding the bracket that goes up front on the early > OD's. > I don't use OD in those gears but I thought about trying it out during > autocrossing. I guess that would be a bad thing Huh? I have accidentally > gone in a > few times. torque/drive ???? > > > > If it is a J-type the biggest thing you'll notice is the time delay in engaging. Since there is no accumulator the overdrive will engage as the pump fills the pistons and since the pump is run off the transmission output shaft it doesn't matter how fast the engine is turning, only how fast the driveshaft is turning. And in the lower gears the driveshaft is turning pretty slow. I tried this once on my TR6. I got the car moving at 10 mph and shifted into third and hit the overdrive switch. It took about 15 - 20 ft to engage the overdrive and at that speed it is real close to a full second. This could be a real inconvenience in an autocross. Since this OD is also used in some rather large Jags and Volvos I don't think that the torque is the issue. It is a pretty stout unit. Cheers Hope you're feeling better. Dave From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Nov 28 14:06:55 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 16:06:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Seeking legal info Message-ID: <20071128160655.AOG70826@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Would any of you happen to know or be a good source for some legal info or advice in Montreal? I need to know first what I need to know, if you take my meaning. I'm not trying to get free legal advice. (I wouldn't turn it down though!) The issue involves estate management, power of attorney, veterans' affairs, etc. Please contact me offlist. Thanks, Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 28 10:25:18 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 09:25:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Over Drive Question ???? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071128172518.CRDL13145.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > I guess that would be a bad thing Huh? I have > accidentally gone in a > few times. torque/drive ???? Dunno myself; but I remember visiting Herman van den Akker and he showed me a whole pile of D-type ODs with snapped shafts. The broken stub was about the size of my little finger. But the J-type looks a lot beefier to me, so I'd guess it's only problem might be clutch slippage and slow engagement. Just trying it out in 1st/2nd isn't likely to hurt anything, IMO (although it might be time to shift by the time the OD engages). However, YMMV and all that. If you try it and something breaks, I'll disavow all knowledge Randall From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Nov 28 22:18:42 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 00:18:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6/2500 74 or later cylinder head needed References: <707752.26365.qm@web86004.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00b101c83247$4fec1d40$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Has anyone has a 74 or later head for sale .... I don't need the valves or the rocker studs, but do need a good crack free head that I can play with. I don't mind if it has EGR port or not ... I can fill the bugger since MI doesn't do emissions (thank God!). Needless to say, I'd pay shipping as well! To help identify the head: I need: the later head with the 1.19" exhaust valves; the earlier head - pre mid 73 or so - had the 1.25" ex. valves. Tony Gordon 72 TR6 From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Nov 29 03:38:13 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 05:38:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Over Drive Question ???? References: Message-ID: <001f01c83273$f21772f0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> >> This forces the O/D to >> drop out in 1st/2nd gears as the torque/drive can wreck the o/d in the >> lower >> and reverse gears. >> > Humm, The way things ended up with my GT6+ OD I have overdrive in 1st & > 2nd, > reverse is locked out. I did not ask for it that way for it is for sure > not > normal. We had trouble finding the bracket that goes up front on the early > OD's. > I don't use OD in those gears but I thought about trying it out during > autocrossing. I guess that would be a bad thing Huh? I have accidentally > gone in a > few times. torque/drive ???? Not really. The petite Spitfire engine will not overstress the Laycock overdrive. Laycock designed it to sit behind much more powerful engines than even the most heavily modified Spitfire engine. In a number of other applications the unit is engaged at much lower speeds and gears than the very simple and effective Spitfire lockout uses. The unit engages hydraulically. When the input shaft isn't spinning, there is no hydraulic pressure. So it can't engage. Attempting to engage it as the shaft spins up, building pressure, results in the clutch face slipping quite a bit, and that will wear out the clutch in record time. This is where a first gear lockout is rather useful, particularly for forgetful drivers. 2nd gear is much less important, and in some other vehicles the unit is allowed to engage in 2nd gear. A number of autocrossers and such with a laycock overdrive have a momentary contact button that lets the driver engage the unit at any time they desire, in order to gain gearing advantage. Reverse lockout on the other hand is important, as the unit can self destruct when spun backwards, regardless of the engines power. From DLylis at aol.com Thu Nov 29 05:30:34 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 07:30:34 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A overheating Message-ID: Maybe I have too much time on my hands. I could not help but notice the temp gauge on my 60 3A is broken up into 4 equal increments. The first mark says 90; the middle says 185 and the top says 230. Let's see, 90 to 185 is 95 degrees and 186 to 230 is 44 degrees. Each of the calibrated marks is subdivided equally by a non calibrated mark. So I am driving along at 185 degrees. I stop at a long traffic light and the temp goes to the next higher uncalibrated mark. (hypothetical, of course) Is that 207 degrees? Yes, I know the answer is to get one of those laser pointer jobs and find out, but in the absence of such a tool is this gauge really calibrated with smaller increments before 185 than after? Or is anything before 185 just filling up space on the gauge face and doesn't mean anything? It is a pretty simple piece of equipment. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 29 09:15:02 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 08:15:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A overheating In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071129161502.VZJH13145.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > but in the absence of such a tool is this > gauge really calibrated with smaller increments before 185 > than after? Or is anything before 185 just filling up space > on the gauge face and doesn't mean anything? I believe the answer lies somewhere between those two extremes, David. After half a century of service, it's doubtful whether any of the marks mean anything ... but the gauge mechanism is "non linear" which means that the original marked points were approximately correct. (Very approximately, because these were never high precision gauges even when they were new and I suspect the markings were chosen as much for visual appeal as accuracy.) But the "increment" doesn't suddenly change in the middle of the dial. Instead they get progressively smaller across the dial. So that mark above 185 is hypothetically somewhat closer to 215. (Note that 185 is roughly 2/3 from 90 to 230; and 215 is roughly 2/3 from 185 to 230.) BTW, even those "laser pointer jobs" leave a lot to be desired in terms of accuracy. For one thing, they assume that all objects glow the same (in infrared light) and it's not true. http://www.openxtra.co.uk/articles/emissivity_intro.php Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 29 09:20:58 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 08:20:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Over Drive Question ???? In-Reply-To: <001f01c83273$f21772f0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <20071129162058.WHYB7495.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > The unit engages hydraulically. When the input shaft isn't > spinning, there is no hydraulic pressure. It would be best to make clear which Laycock OD you are discussing, Nolan, as this is NOT true of an A-type. An A-type has a hydraulic accumulator, meaning it can store enough pressure (for awhile) to activate the clutches even without the input shaft spinning. > A number of autocrossers and such with a laycock overdrive have a momentary > contact button And (modified) A-type ODs with the early (larger) accumulator. Randall From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Nov 29 11:44:58 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 13:44:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Over Drive Question ???? References: <20071129162058.WHYB7495.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <000601c832b7$f217d030$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> It's in a Spitfire Randall. That means it's a D or J. They don't hold hydraulic pressure. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 11:20 AM Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Over Drive Question ???? >> The unit engages hydraulically. When the input shaft isn't >> spinning, there is no hydraulic pressure. > > It would be best to make clear which Laycock OD you are discussing, Nolan, > as this is NOT true of an A-type. An A-type has a hydraulic accumulator, > meaning it can store enough pressure (for awhile) to activate the clutches > even without the input shaft spinning. > >> A number of autocrossers and such with a laycock overdrive have a > momentary >> contact button > > And (modified) A-type ODs with the early (larger) accumulator. > > Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 29 14:40:37 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 13:40:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Over Drive Question ???? In-Reply-To: <000601c832b7$f217d030$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> References: <20071129162058.WHYB7495.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> <000601c832b7$f217d030$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <00d501c832d0$7aac2eb0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > It's in a Spitfire Randall. Actually, you responded to Darrell's reply about his GT6+. Which I agree probably has a D-type ... but I'll bet someone somewhere has stuffed an A-type into a GT6. And since you didn't include that piece of information (apparently didn't recognize yourself which car we were discussing), I still say it's best to qualify blanket statements. Randall From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Nov 29 18:58:45 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 20:58:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Cylinder Heads and Lucas Petrol Injection References: <001001c83297$7006bf40$041e14ac@aitinc.local> Message-ID: <005701c832f4$8bd39f10$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Forgot to cc the list. Well worthwhile conversion. It also gives you the prefect setup in terms of runners and plenum to go to TBI port injection (those PI runners are a work of Art!). Here are my notes. Email me off list with any questions. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Geiger" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 9:51 AM Subject: [6pack] TR6 Cylinder Heads and Lucas Petrol Injection > The recent discussion of TR6 cylinder heads brings up a subject for which > I > anticipate to come up next year. > > A friend and myself both have TR6's and my friend has family in Australia. > A > recent visit from one of the Australians (he is a car guy) brought up the > subject of Lucas PI systems as used on the six cylinder TR engines. Our > Australian friend is going to check on getting two complete PI systems > shipped > back to us for possible installation on our TR6's. They are basically > throw > away items in Australia at this point so we probably will have more in the > shipping cost than in the actual components. > > The web site www.lucasinjection.com has been somewhat helpful but I'd love > to > hear from someone with first hand experience with converting a carburated > 2.5 > Triumph engine to Lucas PI. > > What cylinder head is needed for use with the Lucas PI system? My car has > the > later (wide port spacing) cylinder head. My friend's car has the earlier > (narrow port spacing) cylinder head. Rimmer Brothers shows two injection > systems early (to commission # CP5000) and late (from commission # > CP50001). > Is the differences for spacing of the cylinder head ports? > > Are the ignition distributors different? > > I realize they are more modern alternatives for fuel injection (Rick > Patton's > electronic injection, etc) and from a purely performance/reliability > standpoint the modern electronic system is probably a better choice. I'm > trying to gather some input to try to determine which way to go. I'm > actually > leaning toward the modern system electronic system but my friend wants to > go > the Lucas PI route. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of PI Conversion notes.pdf] From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Nov 29 19:12:42 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 21:12:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Cylinder Heads and Lucas Petrol Injection References: <001001c83297$7006bf40$041e14ac@aitinc.local> <005701c832f4$8bd39f10$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <00af01c832f6$7d56e710$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Darn it .. the site stripped off the attachment. Go to www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/PIconvnotes.pdf for the PI notes. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Gordon" To: "Terry Geiger" ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; "TR list" Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 8:58 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Cylinder Heads and Lucas Petrol Injection > Forgot to cc the list. Well worthwhile conversion. It also gives you the > prefect setup in terms of runners and plenum to go to TBI port injection > (those PI runners are a work of Art!). Here are my notes. Email me off > list > with any questions. > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************************************** > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Terry Geiger" > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 9:51 AM > Subject: [6pack] TR6 Cylinder Heads and Lucas Petrol Injection > > >> The recent discussion of TR6 cylinder heads brings up a subject for which >> I >> anticipate to come up next year. >> >> A friend and myself both have TR6's and my friend has family in >> Australia. >> A >> recent visit from one of the Australians (he is a car guy) brought up the >> subject of Lucas PI systems as used on the six cylinder TR engines. Our >> Australian friend is going to check on getting two complete PI systems >> shipped >> back to us for possible installation on our TR6's. They are basically >> throw >> away items in Australia at this point so we probably will have more in >> the >> shipping cost than in the actual components. >> >> The web site www.lucasinjection.com has been somewhat helpful but I'd >> love >> to >> hear from someone with first hand experience with converting a carburated >> 2.5 >> Triumph engine to Lucas PI. >> >> What cylinder head is needed for use with the Lucas PI system? My car >> has >> the >> later (wide port spacing) cylinder head. My friend's car has the earlier >> (narrow port spacing) cylinder head. Rimmer Brothers shows two injection >> systems early (to commission # CP5000) and late (from commission # >> CP50001). >> Is the differences for spacing of the cylinder head ports? From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Thu Nov 29 20:47:49 2007 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 22:47:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK Message-ID: Greetings listers, and UK listers in particular - My big brother is hitting a significant milestone, and as he enjoys Scotch, and his wife is a Scot, his family is surprising him with (and going with him on) a distillery tour in Scotland. He does enjoy classic vehicles, and I am proposing that we the siblings contribute by sponsoring the rental of ..... something interesting. It would have to be large enough to seat four comfortably. (Bentley? woooo.....) So, could anyone in the know suggest places I might approach? At this stage I don't know the specifics of the tour, until I speak with my wee sister in law, which has to wait till her hubby is out. TIA, Jim Wallace 60 TR3A From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Nov 29 20:58:41 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 22:58:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK References: Message-ID: <002e01c83305$4ba05170$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> A friend of mine is a member of the Classic Car Club, and sings their praises ...http://www.classiccarclub.co.uk/home.asp they have some really nice cars. Now, I don't know if they do reciprocal deals with UK folks who would rent their cars to CCC members visiting the US, but maybe now is a good time to start! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Wallace" To: Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 10:47 PM Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK > Greetings listers, and UK listers in particular - > My big brother is hitting a significant milestone, and as he enjoys > Scotch, and his wife is a Scot, his family is surprising him with (and > going with him on) a distillery tour in Scotland. > He does enjoy classic vehicles, and I am proposing that we the > siblings contribute by sponsoring the rental of ..... something > interesting. It would have to be large enough to seat four > comfortably. (Bentley? woooo.....) > > So, could anyone in the know suggest places I might approach? At this > stage I don't know the specifics of the tour, until I speak with my > wee sister in law, which has to wait till her hubby is out. > TIA, > Jim Wallace > 60 TR3A > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Fri Nov 30 03:25:44 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 05:25:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Over Drive Question ???? References: <20071129162058.WHYB7495.mta10.adelphia.net@randall><000601c832b7$f217d030$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> <00d501c832d0$7aac2eb0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <000e01c8333b$5e34e130$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Take a look at the thread title Randall. I darn well knew what car I was talking about. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 4:40 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Over Drive Question ???? > And since you didn't include that piece of information (apparently didn't > recognize yourself which car we were discussing), I still say it's best to > qualify blanket statements. From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Fri Nov 30 05:20:15 2007 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 07:20:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A inner sill replacement Message-ID: <003c01c8334b$5d4f48e0$6700a8c0@andy> Anyone have any hints or tips for bracing the body while the sills are replaced? Pictures on a website would be great, but Ill gladly take written suggestions. TIA Andy No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date: 11/29/2007 8:32 PM From auprichard at comcast.net Fri Nov 30 06:23:25 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 13:23:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A inner sill replacement Message-ID: <113020071323.11167.47500ECD00017E5500002B9F22070209530B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Having just done this, I need hardly emphasize how important the exercise is. The book "How to restore Triumph TR2/3" is very helpful. I made braces for each door, which effectively secure the "A" and "B" posts: don't know where you live, but if you are anywhere near Mass, you are welcome to borrow them. One more tip: I had to replace a B post on the driver's side and the replacement part was significantly deeper (inside to outside measurement) than the original. It literally took days to get it right. Good luck ! Andrew -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Andy" > Anyone have any hints or tips for bracing the body while the sills are > replaced? > > Pictures on a website would be great, but Ill gladly take written > suggestions. > > TIA > > Andy > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date: 11/29/2007 > 8:32 PM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From twakeman at razzolink.com Fri Nov 30 07:12:22 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 06:12:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A inner sill replacement In-Reply-To: <003c01c8334b$5d4f48e0$6700a8c0@andy> References: <003c01c8334b$5d4f48e0$6700a8c0@andy> Message-ID: <47501A46.7040504@razzolink.com> Andy wrote: > Anyone have any hints or tips for bracing the body while the sills are > replaced? If the body is on the frame it is a matter of just cutting and welding. The frame will hold everything in place. Also do one side at a time and if you are replacing floor and sill panels to them one at a time. The frame does a wonderful job of holding the body in place when you replace panels. TeriAnn From steven at newellboys.com Fri Nov 30 08:32:19 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:32:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47502D03.8080103@newellboys.com> Jim Wallace wrote: >Greetings listers, and UK listers in particular - >My big brother is hitting a significant milestone, and as he enjoys >Scotch, and his wife is a Scot, his family is surprising him with (and >going with him on) a distillery tour in Scotland. >He does enjoy classic vehicles, and I am proposing that we the >siblings contribute by sponsoring the rental of ..... something >interesting. It would have to be large enough to seat four >comfortably. (Bentley? woooo.....) > Jim, start with the classic car hire association made up of most classic car hire companies in the UK; the website is http://www.hchg.co.uk/ and has a handy consolidated vehicle list. You'll spot a '61 Bentley saloon and a few Jag Mark II's to fit as classic family tourers. The Historic Endurance Rallying Organisation (HERO) runs a Scottish Malts Tour if your brother likes driving as much as Scotch. I'm not sure it'll run in 2008: http://www.heroclassicrally.co.uk/ Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 etc. From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Fri Nov 30 10:34:15 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 12:34:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: Re: Classic car rental UK Message-ID: <20071130173416.19801.qmail@server306.com> James, Given that you are endeavoring to help a fellow list member, I am happy to relay your kind offer to the list. I once visited your garage in east London, and was staggered at the range and quality of cars you keep on the road! I am sure that Jim's borther would be delighted to "rent" a classic from you and really enjoy the experience. Regards, ************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************** > > -------Original Message------- > > From: James Evans > > Subject: Re: [TR] Classic car rental UK > > Sent: Nov 30 '07 09:06 > > > > Hi Tony, > > Thanks for the prompt response! > > > > I shall reply to Jim directly, but I am happy for you to maybe send out a > > note to all the mailing list saying that if anyone fancies driving a load of > > different cars as well as their beloved Triumphs.... > > > > Also anyone who loves cars, but maybe visits London on a regular basis could > > well be interested in the overseas packages. > > > > I am happy to offer a 10% discount on all membership fee's for anyone who > > takes a membership, overseas or otherwise...but only for the Triumph Car > > mailing list people... > > > > Or is this a bit too much like advertising! > > > > Let me know...and of course in the meantime, I will have a word and see what > > I can do for Jim... > > > > Cheers and many thanks indeed for the positive feedback! > > > > James Evans > > Director > > Classic Car Club > > 250 Old Street > > London > > EC1V 9DD > > > > 020 7490 9090 > > E- james at classiccarclub.co.uk > > W- www.classiccarclub.co.uk From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu Fri Nov 30 10:55:08 2007 From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 09:55:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] R&R timing gears, chain and spring Message-ID: <47504E7C.9030400@mrl.ucsb.edu> Hi, Folks, My '62 TR4 has been in a protracted maintenance cycle these past two months, and after completing a front suspension recondition, and outsourced rocker assembly and distributor rebuild, I fired the little brute up and realized that the noise I had incorrectly identified as a worn rocker assembly a while back was in fact coming from my timing cover. Uh-oh. The noise sounds like a very loose rocker, and it goes away when the car is revved about 1500 RPM but returns with idle. I'm guessing the flat spring in there has failed because I was talking about that leather seal in the timing cover on front crank pulley a month or two back as being something I'd like to replace someday, so the car obliged me by giving an excuse to replace said leather seal with a modern lip seal. What a thoughtful car. My question posed to the greater wisdom of the list is: When I get in there, what all should I replace besides the spring? I replaced the chain when I rebuilt the motor about 15K miles ago. I kept the sprockets. I seem to recall there being some issue with the new cam sprockets not having an offset on the holes where you bolt it up to the cam which you could use to fiddle with cam timing. Do you guys ALWAYS replace everything in there? Has anyone played with those spiffy adjustable vernier cam gears? Thanks as always! -jeffrey -- Jeffrey Barteet Systems Administrator Materials Research Laboratory University of California Santa Barbara, 93106 From dncullig at us.ibm.com Fri Nov 30 11:33:28 2007 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 13:33:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK Message-ID: Jim - Try "The Open Road Classic Car Hire" - It's what they do! Website is www.theopenroad.co.uk or e-mail at info at theopenroad.co.uk. They rent a TR6, a Jag, an MGB and others - hopefully they have a 4-seater... (Info from British Car Club News) Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Nov 30 11:50:31 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 13:50:31 EST Subject: [TR] R&R timing gears, chain and spring Message-ID: In a message dated 11/30/2007 11:55:29 AM Central Standard Time, barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu writes: > I fired the little > brute up and realized that the noise I had incorrectly identified as a > worn rocker assembly a while back was in fact coming from my timing cover. > > Uh-oh. > > The noise sounds like a very loose rocker, and it goes away when the car > is revved about 1500 RPM but returns with idle. > A local club member had this symptom with his MG 1100. He tried everything before he figured out it was a loose cam shaft nut. The threads got bunged up and the nut would not clamp the sprocket tight to the shaft. Worth checking out. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 30 11:50:35 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 10:50:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] R&R timing gears, chain and spring In-Reply-To: <47504E7C.9030400@mrl.ucsb.edu> References: <47504E7C.9030400@mrl.ucsb.edu> Message-ID: <018301c83381$e45cbda0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > When I get in there, what all should I replace besides the spring? I would check the chain for wear; since sometimes a new chain on old sprockets can lead to rapid wear. Otherwise, just the tensioner, seal, gasket and any other obviously damaged parts. > Do you guys ALWAYS replace everything in there? I didn't find any other problems so I only changed the tensioner and seal (plus a Speedi-sleeve for the damaged hub). Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Nov 30 12:44:54 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 13:44:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A inner sill replacement References: <113020071323.11167.47500ECD00017E5500002B9F22070209530B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <006401c83389$7bd609a0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > One more tip: I had to replace a B post on the driver's side and the > replacement part was significantly deeper (inside to outside measurement) > than the original. It literally took days to get it right. > > Good luck ! > > Andrew > I seem to remember that Paul Dorsey had a similar problem when he was working in this area. Paul? Mike From dkspence at telus.net Fri Nov 30 13:14:19 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 13:14:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <424838CA-4928-48B6-9D8C-66A302E23A67@telus.net> Hmmmm... a group of four Americans of a significant age, running around Scotland in a RHD classic drinking Scotch Whiskey.... I think I'd hide my keys and stay off the roads! Got an itinerary so the Scots can avoid you? All in jest of course. On 30-Nov-07, at 10:35 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "Jim Wallace" > Date: November 29, 2007 8:47:49 PM MST (CA) > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK > > > Greetings listers, and UK listers in particular - > My big brother is hitting a significant milestone, and as he enjoys > Scotch, and his wife is a Scot, his family is surprising him with (and > going with him on) a distillery tour in Scotland. > He does enjoy classic vehicles, and I am proposing that we the > siblings contribute by sponsoring the rental of ..... something > interesting. It would have to be large enough to seat four > comfortably. (Bentley? woooo.....) > > So, could anyone in the know suggest places I might approach? At this > stage I don't know the specifics of the tour, until I speak with my > wee sister in law, which has to wait till her hubby is out. > TIA, > Jim Wallace > 60 TR3A From alistair.hewitt at gmail.com Fri Nov 30 13:22:20 2007 From: alistair.hewitt at gmail.com (Alistair Hewitt) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 15:22:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance In-Reply-To: References: <002001c830ff$2d04eb70$870ec250$@net> Message-ID: Anyone looking for an engine crane could do worse than check out the one Pep Boys have on clearance at the moment - 2 tonne with some sort of fancy remote pump for $62 (after $50 rebate). I just picked one up along with a 1000 lb engine stand (the four wheel type - looks to be pretty stable) which was on sale for $19.50. NFI of course, just passing along what looks like a pretty good deal. They are probably Chinese junk, but for my very occasional use they should do the job. Cheers Alistair From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Nov 30 13:58:55 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 15:58:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Re: Folding engine crane clearance In-Reply-To: References: <002001c830ff$2d04eb70$870ec250$@net> Message-ID: <000301c83393$d4bbb6a0$210110ac@bobspc> Pep Boys just announced a major closing of a number of their stores including the one near me. The good news is that they'll be discounting stuff to get rid of it. I swear that when stores have these close out sales, they bring all the slow selling stuff in from their other stores to try and dump it cheap. But the engine stand was on sale for $18. For very infrequent use, it may be fine. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Alistair Hewitt Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 3:22 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Re: [TR] Folding engine crane clearance Anyone looking for an engine crane could do worse than check out the one Pep Boys have on clearance at the moment - 2 tonne with some sort of fancy remote pump for $62 (after $50 rebate). I just picked one up along with a 1000 lb engine stand (the four wheel type - looks to be pretty stable) which was on sale for $19.50. NFI of course, just passing along what looks like a pretty good deal. They are probably Chinese junk, but for my very occasional use they should do the job. Cheers Alistair No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date: 11/29/2007 8:32 PM From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Fri Nov 30 14:02:37 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 13:02:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK In-Reply-To: <424838CA-4928-48B6-9D8C-66A302E23A67@telus.net> Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5CC@mail2.sr.local> Key words. One designated driver. Deano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Spence Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 12:14 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: grandfatherjim at gmail.com Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK Hmmmm... a group of four Americans of a significant age, running around Scotland in a RHD classic drinking Scotch Whiskey.... I think I'd hide my keys and stay off the roads! Got an itinerary so the Scots can avoid you? All in jest of course. From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Nov 30 14:11:06 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 16:11:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] setting the float level on a SU H6 Message-ID: <000a01c83395$877255a0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> When setting the float level on the SU H6 carb, the manual says to pass a 7/16" rod between the float level aluminum forked lever and the inverted lid. However, when this is done does this mean the needle completely shuts off (with the mimicing of fuel by one's breath). Or does it mean, 'that at 7/16"ths the fuel level just begins to stop' or other? Thanks, Paul Dorsey '60 TR3 From dkspence at telus.net Fri Nov 30 14:12:45 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 14:12:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK In-Reply-To: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5CC@mail2.sr.local> References: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5CC@mail2.sr.local> Message-ID: <102B5241-B519-48AE-884B-CA306305C5D1@telus.net> Oh sure, who's going to go on a distillery tour and not sample the goods.. How about "Chauffeur"? On 30-Nov-07, at 2:02 PM, Paige, Dean wrote: > Key words. One designated driver. > > Deano > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Don Spence > Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 12:14 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: grandfatherjim at gmail.com > Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK > > Hmmmm... a group of four Americans of a significant age, running > around > Scotland in a RHD classic drinking Scotch Whiskey.... I think I'd hide > my keys and stay off the roads! Got an itinerary so the Scots can > avoid > you? > > All in jest of course. From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Fri Nov 30 14:19:09 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 13:19:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK In-Reply-To: <102B5241-B519-48AE-884B-CA306305C5D1@telus.net> Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5CD@mail2.sr.local> Same difference! Deano -----Original Message----- From: Don Spence [mailto:dkspence at telus.net] Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 1:13 PM To: Paige, Dean Cc: Triumphs at Autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Classic car rental UK Oh sure, who's going to go on a distillery tour and not sample the goods.. How about "Chauffeur"? On 30-Nov-07, at 2:02 PM, Paige, Dean wrote: > Key words. One designated driver. > > Deano > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Don Spence > Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 12:14 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: grandfatherjim at gmail.com > Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK > > Hmmmm... a group of four Americans of a significant age, running > around Scotland in a RHD classic drinking Scotch Whiskey.... I think > I'd hide my keys and stay off the roads! Got an itinerary so the > Scots can avoid you? > > All in jest of course. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 30 14:20:40 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 13:20:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] setting the float level on a SU H6 In-Reply-To: <000a01c83395$877255a0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <000a01c83395$877255a0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <001b01c83396$dc2c7070$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > When setting the float level on the SU H6 carb, the manual > says to pass a > 7/16" rod between the float level aluminum forked lever and > the inverted lid. > However, when this is done does this mean the needle > completely shuts off > (with the mimicing of fuel by one's breath). Or does it > mean, 'that at > 7/16"ths the fuel level just begins to stop' or other? Paul, I don't actually think it's all that critical. Small errors in float level don't seem to cause a problem. But I take it to mean that the valve should be closed (unable to blow through it), with the fork dragging on the rod (on both sides). Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Nov 30 14:07:38 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 21:07:38 -0000 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK References: <424838CA-4928-48B6-9D8C-66A302E23A67@telus.net> Message-ID: <004b01c83395$0a569810$0201a8c0@Bevan> Don Spence wrote: > Hmmmm... a group of four Americans of a significant age, running > around Scotland in a RHD classic drinking Scotch Whiskey.... I think > I'd hide my keys and stay off the roads! Got an itinerary so the > Scots can avoid you? Hey, being an ancient Scotsman, I resemble that remark - and on two counts. We Scots don't distil whiskey - you get that muck in Ireland. We distil whisky and as for staying off the roads, no self-respecting Scotsman would want to stay off the road or avoid others after a few drams. After all, he's probably stoned out of his head as well! Jonmac > On 30-Nov-07, at 10:35 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > >> From: "Jim Wallace" >> Date: November 29, 2007 8:47:49 PM MST (CA) >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK >> >> >> Greetings listers, and UK listers in particular - >> My big brother is hitting a significant milestone, and as he enjoys >> Scotch, and his wife is a Scot, his family is surprising him with (and >> going with him on) a distillery tour in Scotland. >> He does enjoy classic vehicles, and I am proposing that we the >> siblings contribute by sponsoring the rental of ..... something >> interesting. It would have to be large enough to seat four >> comfortably. (Bentley? woooo.....) >> >> So, could anyone in the know suggest places I might approach? At this >> stage I don't know the specifics of the tour, until I speak with my >> wee sister in law, which has to wait till her hubby is out. >> TIA, >> Jim Wallace >> 60 TR3A > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From pethier at comcast.net Fri Nov 30 14:41:18 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 21:41:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK Message-ID: <113020072141.7369.4750837E000AF5A400001CC922007343649D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Don Spence > Oh sure, who's going to go on a distillery tour and not sample the > goods.. I will. Pay my way, and I'm there. I won't touch a drop. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Nov 30 14:14:33 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 21:14:33 -0000 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK References: Message-ID: <005001c83396$017bca20$0201a8c0@Bevan> Dennis Culligan wrote: > Try "The Open Road Classic Car Hire" - It's what > they do! Website is www.theopenroad.co.uk or e-mail > at info at theopenroad.co.uk. They rent a TR6, a Jag, > an MGB and others - hopefully they have a 4-seater... > (Info from British Car Club News) Jim, *absolutely* no FI on my part but Tony Merrygold who runs The Open Road is a casual acquaintance of mine. Been to his house between Warwick and Stratford upon Avon several times and seen his collection of classic hire cars, all of which are a delight to the eye. He does have a Mark2 3.8 Jaguar and a Stag. His website reveals a TR6PI, Healey 3000 and a TR4A - together with weekly hire rates. Just remember that fuel in the UK is running about US$9.90 per imperial gallon at the moment and those old XK engines were never noted for their economy - but hey, throw financial caution to the winds for as long as you can - and enjoy yourselves! :) Jonmac From bill_beecher at flash.net Fri Nov 30 14:49:02 2007 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill beecher) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 14:49:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] What Paint? Message-ID: <20071130214915.54D681879E6@autox.team.net> I am looking through the TR restoration guide and the TRA Judging Guide and find no mention of what type original paint is to be used for a restored TR3A. I am thinking acrylic enamel or lacquer and no clear-coat finishes. Can someone enlighten me as to what is original and if other more improved paints are acceptable in a concours judging situation. I find the colors and codes listed in the Moss catalog but can I be sure this is the correct one for my black May 1958 car? Moss give an ICI code of 2224 while the French TR Registry give 0122. I called the ICI folks and they tell me they no longer deal in automotive paints. Thanks in advance, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.11/1161 - Release Date: 11/30/2007 12:12 PM From banc8004 at comcast.net Fri Nov 30 16:10:21 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 18:10:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Classic Car Rental in the UK Message-ID: <1AEA3973-8436-4FB9-B339-CF830FB93B1A@comcast.net> As Jonmac pointed out, gas will be expensive. The Imperial gallon he quotes at $9.90 is 5/4 of a US gallon, and relative cost = $7.90 per US gallon. I have a copy of "Classic and Sports Car" to hand. This has a section in the classifieds termed "Classic Car Hire". The March 07 advertisers were: www.hirethedream.co.uk www.ribblevalleyclassiccarhire.co.uk www.drcluxury.com "Classic Cars" of Dec 06 has: www.northdevonclassics.co.uk www.classiccarhire.com Classic Car Hire from the Peak District (nearer to Scotland!) 01144 1246 859827 It might be worth looking at a current copy if each to see if there are others you might get a quote from. Good luck with your trip. The roads in Scotland are wonderful (low population, high govt spend / capita compared to England, and gorgeous scenary to enjoy while at it. If you want any help finding lovely roads, let me know. Cheers, Brian From acekraut11 at aol.com Fri Nov 30 17:43:40 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 19:43:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK In-Reply-To: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B5CD@mail2.sr.local> Message-ID: <8CA01CA5A3C724B-1718-39FC@mblk-d37.sysops.aol.com> I volunteer....just pay my way on the trip and I will drive for free! I know, nice of me. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Paige, Dean To: Don Spence Cc: Triumphs at Autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 4:19 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Classic car rental UK Same difference! Deano -----Original Message----- From: Don Spence [mailto:dkspence at telus.net] Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 1:13 PM To: Paige, Dean Cc: Triumphs at Autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Classic car rental UK Oh sure, who's going to go on a distillery tour and not sample the goods.. How about "Chauffeur"? On 30-Nov-07, at 2:02 PM, Paige, Dean wrote: > Key words. One designated driver. > > Deano > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Don Spence > Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 12:14 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: grandfatherjim at gmail.com > Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK > > Hmmmm... a group of four Americans of a significant age, running > around Scotland in a RHD classic drinking Scotch Whiskey.... I think > I'd hide my keys and stay off the roads! Got an itinerary so the > Scots can avoid you? > > All in jest of course. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003 From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Nov 30 18:00:38 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 20:00:38 EST Subject: [TR] [Spits] Over Drive Question ???? Message-ID: In a message dated 11/29/2007 4:41:11 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Which I agree probably has a D-type ... but I'll bet someone somewhere has stuffed an A-type into a GT6. Sorry Guys, I knew when I posted my original inquiry that I should have stated the OD Type. CRS keep me from doing that. I am going to say now that it is a early D Type on the GT6 Gearbox. Yes, it engages pretty slow and nothing like the early A Type "Bangers" with the large accumulators. Got one of those on the 3B!. Therefore the GT6 OD would be would be a problem in autocross due to the delayed engagement. It would be great to stuff that early A Type into her! I love you Guys, Darrell **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From jmitch at snet.net Fri Nov 30 18:26:10 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 20:26:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Muffler anti resonator material Message-ID: <4750B832.5080401@snet.net> I have a stock type stainless steel exhaust system on my TR6. It tends to resonate more than a mild steel system. Is there anything like a dynamat type product, that could be slapped onto the muffler to take some of the tinny sound out of it, and wouldn't melt? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 Looks like tomorrow may be the last ride as they're predicting snow for Sunday:( From FGFO1 at aol.com Fri Nov 30 21:03:38 2007 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 23:03:38 EST Subject: [TR] camshaft bearings TR3 Message-ID: On my TR3 motor the rear camshaft bearing has what looks like a frost/core plug right behind it. is it pressed in like a core plug? I don't see any part numbers listed in moss/roadster/vic. any known sources? thanks again Frank Fisher 58 TR3 **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Nov 30 21:25:42 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 23:25:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A inner sill replacement References: <003c01c8334b$5d4f48e0$6700a8c0@andy> Message-ID: <002201c833d2$3de389d0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Andy, I initially tried to do this right and brace the door gaps as other's mentioned. However, those braces came off during the intervening years, but now that I've finished this welding/body work/chassis work., they look fine! Prior to any sill work, it's essential to have the body and chassis togather. I agree that Roger Williams' book called, How To Restore Triumph TR2, TR3 & TR3A, was very important and had alot of pics! I'm uncertain if you already have the body on the chassis? I think for replacing those particular panels, it's pretty well imperative. Another place I was forced to deviate from the recommended procedure is that I never have gotten around to replacing my outer sills (rocker panels). My car still has months to go before I drive it. Good Luck, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 in Athens, GA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 30 22:48:44 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 21:48:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] camshaft bearings TR3 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071201054844.DMXD20104.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > On my TR3 motor the rear camshaft bearing has what looks like > a frost/core plug right behind it. > is it pressed in like a core plug? Yup, just like an ordinary core plug (which is what it is). > I don't see any part numbers listed in moss/roadster/vic. any > known sources? TRF P/N 44473, shows as current. Good chance you could find one at your FLAPS as well. Randall