[TR] TRiumph 2 questions

[Jim Bauder]

Randall,

Just like always, excellent and right-on advice plus some very clever ideas for
trouble shooting.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the list!

Jim
Jim Bauder
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 8:25 AM
To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion'
Subject: Re: [TR] TRiumph 2 questions

> So...is there any special manifold gasket or trick that can 
> keep me from having to go through this each year?  

Jack's gaskets are probably the best trick.  But I solved the problem on my
TR3A many years ago by :

Make sure both manifold surfaces are flat and in-line with each other.  If
necessary, take them to a shop and have them milled flat just like a
cylinder head.  I dressed mine up with careful filing and checking with a
straight-edge.  Check the head surface, too.  I took all the studs out and
lightly dressed it with a flat file, discovering high spots around the stud
holes.

Make sure the stud threads are clean and not distorted.  Also check the
lengths to be certain the nuts are not bottoming on the threads.  There are
4 different lengths of studs available (although early cars only used 3 of
them).  Also be sure the locating pins are in place and that the intake fits
cleanly over them.

Make sure the exhaust manifold isn't fouling on the engine block, where it
sticks out below the head surface.

I removed the bolts between the intake and exhaust manifolds.  Mostly
because I didn't want all that heat going into the intake (cold air means
more power), but I think it had a positive effect on sealing as well.  The
exhaust manifold expands significantly when it gets hot, and will pull the
intake away from the head if they are fastened tightly together.


Put a heavy flat washer between the lockwasher and the manifold on the
outermost studs.

Replace the lock washers with new, every time you take them off.  (Ok, I
check to see how far they spring back and only replace the ones that have
lost their spring.  But that is frequently all of them.)

Most important, retorque the nuts at least yearly.

> 2)  Wavering speedometer.  I had my speedometer (and other 
> gauges) rebuilt by MO MA.  Now the speedometer is wobbling 
> back and forth over a 15 mph range while I'm driving.  Oddly, 
> it seems steady when the car is cold and at lower speeds.  
> Could the speedometer transmission sending gear be a problem? 

More likely the cable, IMO.  Slim chance it might be the speedo head
(although I've never heard of MO MA making such a mistake, they're only
human); one quick check is to temporarily connect the tach to the speedo
cable and see if it wavers too.

Randall