From CarlSereda at aol.com Fri Jul 6 20:55:22 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 22:55:22 EDT Subject: [Triumphs] test Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20070706/1c232fb5/attachment.htm From mjb at autox.team.net Fri Jul 6 21:18:42 2007 From: mjb at autox.team.net (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 21:18:42 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] List changes Message-ID: <20070707031843.10A10187A41@autox.team.net> In case you are wondering about that odd email welcoming you to a list you already receive, I've switched triumphs at autox.team.net from majordomo to mailman list management software. Some things will be different, some will be the same. As before, if you want to send mail to triumphs at autox.team.net you send mail to triumphs at autox.team.net - you'd be surprised at how many folks can NOT figure that one out! With Mailman, managing your subscription should be more web friendly. You can go to the web pages listed in the messages and muck about with your settings. One major change is that there is now just the one list triumphs at autox.team.net, the list triumphs-digest at autox.team.net no longer exists. But this doesn't mean there is no digest format, it just means that one doesn't need to unsubscribe from one list and subscribe to the other just to switch formats. Go to the list pages, log in, and select digest or non-digest as you desire. Another handy option is the 'nomail' feature. If you are going to be away from your email for a while, you can set your membership to nomail, and then back to regular delivery upon your return. A bit easier than having to unsubscribe and then subscribe again. A useful way to make use of the nomail feature is to enable submissions from multiple addresses. For example, one might want to subscribe a-student at diploma.mill.edu as your main address. But sometimes you send mail from work, so you can subscribe busybee at monolith.com and set the second address to nomail. So messages you send from either address will pass the membership test, but you won't get multiple copies of each list message. RealSoonNow I'll have a web page that covers some more of the various differences and features. mjb. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 6 21:53:50 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 20:53:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A no oil pressure? In-Reply-To: <468eef55.b0.65c2.1727@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <20070707035350.BAMX12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > So why isn't oil literally gushing out when I open the > fittings? Oh, my mistake ... didn't realize you had opened the line with the engine running. My bad. In that case, there must be a blockage somewhere up the line; perhaps at the banjo fitting on the oil filter head. > Or is the pressure in the line much less then the > indicated reading on the gauge? Nope, should be the same. But the line is small diameter, so the force is less than you would expect. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 6 21:56:49 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 20:56:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] List changes In-Reply-To: <20070707031843.10A10187A41@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20070707035649.VQMF26351.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > One major change Another is that the [TR] in the subject line has changed to [Triumphs]. 99.9% will probably not notice or care, but the rest of us have to adjust our filters. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jul 6 22:26:25 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 22:26:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] List changes In-Reply-To: <20070707031843.10A10187A41@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20070707042645.D7187187A1A@autox.team.net> Mark, Thanks for the amazing job you do keeping all this chugging along. :-) Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 L(O) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J. Bradakis Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 9:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] List changes In case you are wondering about that odd email welcoming you to a list you already receive, I've switched triumphs at autox.team.net from majordomo to mailman list management software. Some things will be different, some will be the same. As before, if you want to send mail to triumphs at autox.team.net you send mail to triumphs at autox.team.net - you'd be surprised at how many folks can NOT figure that one out! With Mailman, managing your subscription should be more web friendly. You can go to the web pages listed in the messages and muck about with your settings. One major change is that there is now just the one list triumphs at autox.team.net, the list triumphs-digest at autox.team.net no longer exists. But this doesn't mean there is no digest format, it just means that one doesn't need to unsubscribe from one list and subscribe to the other just to switch formats. Go to the list pages, log in, and select digest or non-digest as you desire. Another handy option is the 'nomail' feature. If you are going to be away from your email for a while, you can set your membership to nomail, and then back to regular delivery upon your return. A bit easier than having to unsubscribe and then subscribe again. A useful way to make use of the nomail feature is to enable submissions from multiple addresses. For example, one might want to subscribe a-student at diploma.mill.edu as your main address. But sometimes you send mail from work, so you can subscribe busybee at monolith.com and set the second address to nomail. So messages you send from either address will pass the membership test, but you won't get multiple copies of each list message. RealSoonNow I'll have a web page that covers some more of the various differences and features. mjb. _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/888 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 6:36 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.1/888 - Release Date: 7/6/2007 6:36 AM From mark at bradakis.com Thu Jul 12 02:47:31 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 02:47:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] What fun Message-ID: <4695EAA3.8040305@bradakis.com> I love computers. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Thu Jul 12 02:53:10 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 02:53:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] What fun Message-ID: <4695EBF6.2070802@bradakis.com> I love computers. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Thu Jul 12 02:36:15 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 02:36:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] The wonders of modern technology Message-ID: <4695E7FF.8010700@bradakis.com> Sometimes I just *love* computers. mjb. From brianjone5 at mac.com Thu Jul 12 03:11:55 2007 From: brianjone5 at mac.com (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 05:11:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lotus mailing list members rally to restore unwell fellow-lister's car Message-ID: <9F6AA672-AB95-49E1-BB46-DFEC4D6D36CD@mac.com> This is a great story of strangers - other than they share an email list on Lotus cars, coming together to restore someone's car who is/ was seriously ill. http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/wales/south_east/6292354.stm From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jul 12 05:57:00 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 11:57:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] The wonders of modern technology In-Reply-To: <4695E7FF.8010700@bradakis.com> Message-ID: >Sometimes I just *love* computers. > >mjb. What do you mean. Our cars run like this too and we keep them. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_hotmailtextlink2 From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jul 12 06:02:15 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 08:02:15 EDT Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: From jgillis at tcd.ie Thu Jul 12 08:17:04 2007 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 15:17:04 +0100 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water Message-ID: <1184249824.469637e0087c3@mymail.tcd.ie> Hello TR listers here is one to try out our new TR list. I am near the turn the engine over stage, I have obtained running in oil (of the classic variety) and I was wondering how soon before I actually try and start the engine should I put the oil in, is there any advantage to waiting for the day or is it useful to have it sitting in the sump for a while beforehand. The second question is what should I put in the radiator, water, water/antifreeze or coolant, is there an opinion on what's best for the sidescreen set-up. BTW this is Ireland where conditions are never more extreme than +28C and -4C. John Gillis 1954 TR2 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 12 08:31:16 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 07:31:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070712143116.VCXD12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Nope, sorry, you flunked. It's D.a.v.e .... From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com Thu Jul 12 08:37:31 2007 From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 10:37:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Distributors Message-ID: As things slowly chug along on my TR4 resto, I find myself with 2 distributors to pick from. I have a DM2 and 25D. I plan on going to negative ground & using a Pertronix, but it looks like Pertronix has a different kit for each distributor. I am wondering if there are any inherent differences between the 2 distributors, or if one is any better than the other. Thanks in advance (no pun intended) John Dunham Development Engineering Amphenol TCS - A Division of Amphenol Corporation 44 Simon Street Nashua, NH 03060 Phone: 603-879-3181 Fax: 603-879-2181 john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Jul 12 08:56:20 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 10:56:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water In-Reply-To: <1184249824.469637e0087c3@mymail.tcd.ie> References: <1184249824.469637e0087c3@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <8C992ABF0D8570D-5B4-ABEC@WEBMAIL-DC16.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: John Gillis I am near the turn the engine over stage, I have obtained running in oil (of the classic variety) and I was wondering how soon before I actually try and start the engine should I put the oil in, is there any advantage to waiting for the day or is it useful to have it sitting in the sump for a while beforehand. ==AM== I could be wrong, but I don't really think there's any particular advantage either way. Seems to me that the oil isn't really going to get everywhere it needs to be until the engine is spun over enough to allow the oil pump to fill and then spread the oil throughout the moving bits. Some folks like to remove the distributor and spin the oil pump to help "prime" everything. Assuming, though, that you used some sort of assembly lube on bearings, etc., I don't know that you wouldn't be just as well off turning the engine with the starter (and ignition disabled) until you see oil pressure registering on the gauge. ==AM== The second question is what should I put in the radiator, water, water/antifreeze or coolant, is there an opinion on what's best for the sidescreen set-up. BTW this is Ireland where conditions are never more extreme than +28C and -4C. ==AM== The age-old debate. ;-) Again, I'd think that some proportion of a quality anti-freeze would be a good thing for corrosion inhibiting as well as raising somewhat the boiling point of the coolant. For initial startup, though, probably just water would be fine. If nothing else, you won't have wasted any antifreeze should you discover small leaks in the cooling system! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From EMorat at CRDUS.JNJ.com Thu Jul 12 08:57:44 2007 From: EMorat at CRDUS.JNJ.com (Morat, Ed [CRDUS]) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 10:57:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <9BF1450F0327F946AAFFF1DCFECD42A46A8304@JNJUSMMGMS01.na.jnj.com> Test test 1 2 3, read you loud and clear. Ed -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+emorat=crdus.jnj.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+emorat=crdus.jnj.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 8:02 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] test _______________________________________________ emorat at crdus.jnj.com Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 12 10:02:36 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 09:02:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Distributors In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070712160234.FAVE16178.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > As things slowly chug along on my TR4 resto, I find myself > with 2 distributors to pick from. I have a DM2 and 25D. I > plan on going to negative ground & using a Pertronix, but it > looks like Pertronix has a different kit for each > distributor. I am wondering if there are any inherent > differences between the 2 distributors, or if one is any > better than the other. John, IMO the 25D design is slightly better. Simpler, with fewer pivot points to wear, and possibly easier to get parts for. But keep in mind that there are many different variations within each model number, with different advance curves to suit different engines. Also, while the Pertronix will compensate to some extent for wear in the main bushing, it cannot compensate for wear in the advance mechanisms. So, assuming you are comparing a 40735 DM2 to a 40795 25D (which are both for TR4 engines and have the same advance curves); I would choose the one in the better condition. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 12 10:07:27 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 09:07:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water In-Reply-To: <1184249824.469637e0087c3@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <20070712160725.GTTS5501.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > is > there any advantage to waiting for the day or is it useful to > have it sitting in the sump for a while beforehand. IMO no difference. > The > second question is what should I put in the radiator, water, > water/antifreeze or coolant, is there an opinion on what's > best for the sidescreen set-up. You must have some sort of corrosion inhibitor in there. Easiest is probably 30% antifreeze, plus distilled (or de-ionized) water. There are other products around that claim to offer adequate corrosion protection, but my experiment with Water Wetter and distilled water did not turn out well. Oddly enough, the fine print on the bottle says it doesn't provide corrosion protection, despite what both the web site and their technical support say. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 12 10:43:29 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 09:43:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water In-Reply-To: <8C992ABF0D8570D-5B4-ABEC@WEBMAIL-DC16.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20070712164328.KHTL22229.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > Assuming, though, that you used some sort > of assembly lube on bearings, etc., I don't know that you > wouldn't be just as well off turning the engine with the > starter (and ignition > disabled) until you see oil pressure registering on the gauge. I agree, and that's what I do; except I also leave the spark plugs out during the operation. Less load on both starter and bearings. Randall From motorcarriage at charter.net Thu Jul 12 11:09:47 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 13:09:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] test References: <9BF1450F0327F946AAFFF1DCFECD42A46A8304@JNJUSMMGMS01.na.jnj.com> Message-ID: <00e601c7c4a7$73598e60$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Me Too! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Morat, Ed [CRDUS]" To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 10:57 AM Subject: Re: [TR] test > Test test 1 2 3, read you loud and clear. > > Ed > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+emorat=crdus.jnj.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+emorat=crdus.jnj.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf > Of Dave1massey at cs.com > Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 8:02 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] test > > > > _______________________________________________ > emorat at crdus.jnj.com > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > _______________________________________________ > motorcarriage at charter.net > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From flashtr3 at cox.net Thu Jul 12 11:10:33 2007 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 10:10:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water References: <1184249824.469637e0087c3@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <007401c7c4ad$e18710a0$9f54fd18@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I personally wouldn't wait for the break-in oil before starting the engine. I have rebuilt many TR engines as well as domestics engines and have not had any premature wear on bearings, cam lobes, or cam shaft. I always use an assembly lube when I am putting my engines together to prevent premature wear. I am sure of your weather conditions extremes may not warrant an antifreeze coolant, however, in the TR manual it shows antifreeze coolant solution to be used. The solution would help keep engine corrosion down compared to straight water. Good luck, Ibsen Dow ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gillis" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 7:17 AM Subject: [TR] Oil and Water > Hello TR listers > here is one to try out our new TR list. I am near the turn the engine over > stage, I have obtained running in oil (of the classic variety) and I was > wondering how soon before I actually try and start the engine should I put > the > oil in, is there any advantage to waiting for the day or is it useful to > have > it sitting in the sump for a while beforehand. The second question is what > should I put in the radiator, water, water/antifreeze or coolant, is there > an > opinion on what's best for the sidescreen set-up. BTW this is Ireland > where > conditions are never more extreme than +28C and -4C. > John Gillis > 1954 TR2 > _______________________________________________ > flashtr3 at cox.net > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jul 12 12:01:55 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 14:01:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: <20070712140155.BPK47009@ms09.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Yeah, me too. But why does every note now come in with the receiver's name and a line stuck to the bottom? Jim Muller > _______________________________________________ > emorat at crdus.jnj.com >> _______________________________________________ > motorcarriage at charter.net > _______________________________________________ jimmuller at rcn.com From James.Olson at Kofc.Org Thu Jul 12 12:13:14 2007 From: James.Olson at Kofc.Org (James.Olson at Kofc.Org) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 14:13:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 07/12/2007 and will not return until 07/13/2007. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message and any attachments may contain confidential, proprietary or legally privileged information and is intended only for the use of the addressee or addressees named above for its intended purpose. If you are not the intended recipient of this message, this message constitutes notice that any review, retransmission, distribution, copying or other use or taking any action in reliance on the information in this message and its attachments, is prohibited. If you receive this communication in error, please immediately advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete this message and its attachments from your system without keeping a copy. Unless expressly stated in this e-mail, nothing in this message may be construed as a digital or electronic signature. Thank you. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 12 12:15:28 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 11:15:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <20070712140155.BPK47009@ms09.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <20070712181528.IGFK26351.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > Yeah, me too. But why does every note now come in with the > receiver's name and a line stuck to the bottom? I would guess that's the default for the new list software. Was a note from MJB saying Triumphs is on a temporary list/server while he figures out what's wrong; so perhaps he will change the trailer after we move to the final setup ... but for now, I'd suggest just being happy it works. You may notice another change : hitting "reply" no longer sends a private reply. I'll bet *that* gets fixed quickly ! Randall From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Thu Jul 12 12:54:59 2007 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 14:54:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] OT: TVR 2500M In-Reply-To: <20070712181528.IGFK26351.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488FE7F3F4@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> Howdy all. Any thoughts from the collective on whether I should dive into the TVR world and pick up a fairly clean '74 2500M? Thanks! Bill S. 2005 Lotus Elise 1968 Triumph TR-250 1965 Sunbeam Tiger 1965 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III www.TR-250.com Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows... NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From L1J1S at aol.com Thu Jul 12 15:02:21 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 17:02:21 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors Message-ID: hello, i am looking for the strips of wood that go inside of the doors on a post 60000 model. can anyone help me out with this? larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a supercharged ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Thu Jul 12 15:04:15 2007 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 14:04:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Checking address Message-ID: <272150.40652.qm@web51607.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Test #4 -Cosmo Kramer --------------------------------- Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. From L1J1S at aol.com Thu Jul 12 15:12:18 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 17:12:18 EDT Subject: [TR] OT: TVR 2500M Message-ID: bill, had a 2500m w/ac. from the day i sold the car i have regretted it. if she is clean go for it. if you enjoy your lotus, you will love the tvr. larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a 1973 mini cooper 1976 minicooper pickup ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Thu Jul 12 10:31:59 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 18:31:59 +0200 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water References: <20070712160725.GTTS5501.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <005401c7c4a2$2b653eb0$0500a8c0@Study> Why not ordinary tap water and antifreeze/inhibitor? David Brister. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 4723 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Jul 12 15:18:52 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 17:18:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Checking address References: <272150.40652.qm@web51607.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002701c7c4ca$40db4be0$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> working #1 From spamiam at comcast.net Thu Jul 12 15:27:14 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 21:27:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 Distributors Message-ID: <071220072127.5633.46969CB20004514C000016012207021573030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> John, First, do a vacuum check on the vacuum capsule of each distributor. If one leaks, then it is probably not eligible for use. It is possible to get them serviced or (in some cases) new ones. Also check each one for wear on the shaft and proper motion of the mechanical advance and vacuum advance mechanisms. I have seen on EBay, some new distributors, but they appear to be a "one size fits all" approach. There IS a difference between the DM2 and 25D4. Functionally, the difference is the advance curves. How much mechanical advance, and how much vacuum advance. I forget the specifics on these distributors, but as I recall the 25D was set up for more advance. More advance means more power (within limits) as long as the octane of the fuel and compression of engine can tolerate it. The 25D4 is the later distributor, and that one would be the one I would pick if all else is equal regarding wear in the units. Mechanically, there are differences between the DM2 and 25D4 units, This means that the Pertronix magnet sleeve that is correct (size/orientation) for one is not right for the other. Even then there was variability in production tolerances. The Pertronics for my 25D4 did NOT have a snug fit on the shaft and wiggled probably 3 degrees in either direction. Tech Service told me how to improve that, but it was definitely a Rube Goldberg fix. >From: John Dunham >Subject: [TR] TR4 Distributors >To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" >Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >Message-ID: > >85257316.00505660 at amphenol-tcs.com> > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII > >As things slowly chug along on my TR4 resto, I find myself with 2 >distributors to pick from. I have a DM2 and 25D. I plan on going to >negative ground & using a Pertronix, but it looks like Pertronix has a >different kit for each distributor. I am wondering if there are any >inherent differences between the 2 distributors, or if one is any better >than the other. >Thanks in advance (no pun intended) >John Dunham >Development Engineering >Amphenol TCS - A Division of Amphenol Corporation >44 Simon Street >Nashua, NH 03060 >Phone: 603-879-3181 >Fax: 603-879-2181 >john.dunham at amphenol-tcs. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Jul 12 15:27:35 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 17:27:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors References: Message-ID: <006901c7c4cb$77659660$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Larry, Post 60,000 doors don't have wood strips. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 5:02 PM Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors > hello, i am looking for the strips of wood that go inside of the doors on > a > post 60000 model. can anyone help me out with this? larry schwartz 1960 > tr3-a > supercharged > > > > ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL > at > http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour > _______________________________________________ > fogbro1 at comcast.net > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/897 - Release Date: 7/11/2007 > 9:57 PM From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jul 12 15:38:37 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 14:38:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water In-Reply-To: <005401c7c4a2$2b653eb0$0500a8c0@Study> References: <20070712160725.GTTS5501.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> <005401c7c4a2$2b653eb0$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <16813DD61A0C4FCC816D9FB93144CD9D@GeoPC> Guess it depends on what is in your tap water... but it likely contains either naturally occuring or added minerals and chemicals that yield an unsuitable pH and has other nasty effects (corrosion & deposits). I use either distilled water or filtered rain water (though I wonder about the latter). Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Brister" To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 9:31 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Oil and Water > Why not ordinary tap water and antifreeze/inhibitor? > > David Brister. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 12 16:39:08 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 15:39:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water In-Reply-To: <005401c7c4a2$2b653eb0$0500a8c0@Study> References: <20070712160725.GTTS5501.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> <005401c7c4a2$2b653eb0$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <115101c7c4d5$75964910$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Why not ordinary tap water and antifreeze/inhibitor? Look inside your tea kettle to see why not. That whitish deposit doesn't conduct heat worth a tinker's damn ... Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From L1J1S at aol.com Thu Jul 12 16:43:14 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 18:43:14 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors Message-ID: ed, then why does the trf have a number for it? they are and have been n/a for quite some time. the tenex fasterners, don't they get screwed into the wood? larry ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dtennant at shaw.ca Thu Jul 12 16:45:09 2007 From: dtennant at shaw.ca (Donald Tennant) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 15:45:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4696AEF5.8080007@shaw.ca> Received Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > _______________________________________________ > dtennant at shaw.ca > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 12 17:15:07 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 16:15:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <115b01c7c4da$7c669240$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > ed, then why does the trf have a number for it? they are and > have been n/a > for quite some time. the tenex fasterners, don't they get > screwed into the wood? I'm pretty sure the late doors did have wooden blocks to support the side curtain mounts. P/N 650088/650089 No Tenax fasteners, though. And as I recall, the "lift the dot" studs either screwed into the sheet metal, or had nuts inside the door. Don't know of anyone that sells them pre-made, though. If you can find a nice, clear piece of ash and a band saw, you should be able to make your own. Or Google for a shop that does Woody restoration. Can't think of the name offhand, but there's one not far from me, in Long Beach. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From kentech0822 at verizon.net Thu Jul 12 17:25:18 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 19:25:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000d01c7c4db$e9307f20$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> There's a guy selling on ebay that I know from another forum that has made some up for sale. $82 for both doors I think. -----Original Message----- From: L1J1S at aol.com [mailto:L1J1S at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 5:02 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors hello, i am looking for the strips of wood that go inside of the doors on a post 60000 model. can anyone help me out with this? larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a supercharged ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From nwolf at u.washington.edu Thu Jul 12 17:25:53 2007 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 16:25:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] OT: TVR 2500M Message-ID: Hi Bill When I was young, my parents had a '71 TVR 2500 in bright yellow. It was a very cool car. The motor had triple Webers and had been tuned to 152 HP. At right around 2000 Lbs, the car would do 0-60 in 6 seconds flat (I timed it from the passenger seat with my watch). Double wishbones all around gave it amazing handling. Yes, I did get to drive it once. Loved the folding sunroof. The one major downside (on both the 2500 and 2500M) is the fact that the fuel tank is at the extreme rear of the car and completely unprotected by anything but fiberglass. The steel frame stops just behind the rear wheels. The bumpers are strictly cosmetic. This seemed pretty scary to me, even as a kid. If I owned one, I think I would put a fuel cell in it. -Nick '64-ish TR4 P.S. In case anyone doesn't know, everything on a TVR that goes round-and-round is from a TR6, and everything that goes up-and-down (i.e. suspension) is TVR. Or so the saying goes. So this really isn't so far off topic... > Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 14:54:59 -0400 > From: "Steinman, Bill" > Subject: [TR] OT: TVR 2500M > > Howdy all. Any thoughts from the collective on whether I should dive > into the TVR world and pick up a fairly clean '74 2500M? Thanks! > > Bill S. From kentech0822 at verizon.net Thu Jul 12 17:33:30 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 19:33:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01c7c4dd$0e97e2c0$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> Here you go, this is the ebay guy. This particular auction is closed but he has more so email hime. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR2-TR3-TR3A-Door-Wood-Reinforcements _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ140702QQihZ007QQitemZ170128506565QQrdZ1QQsspagen ameZWDVW -----Original Message----- From: L1J1S at aol.com [mailto:L1J1S at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 5:02 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors hello, i am looking for the strips of wood that go inside of the doors on a post 60000 model. can anyone help me out with this? larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a supercharged ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From L1J1S at aol.com Thu Jul 12 17:44:05 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 19:44:05 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors Message-ID: he makes them only for pre 60000 doors ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From skip47 at powernet.net Thu Jul 12 17:47:23 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 16:47:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] OT: TVR 2500M References: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488FE7F3F4@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> Message-ID: <00ba01c7c4de$ff610280$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Bill S. wrote: > Howdy all. Any thoughts from the collective on whether I should dive > into the TVR world and pick up a fairly clean '74 2500M? Thanks! I reply: Buy it! My list of why you should is VERY long, based on 37 years of owning a Vixen S2. The drivetrain and brakes in yours are well known to many of us, and should offer few problems. In fact, the only hard-to-replace parts in the drivetrain would be the rear uprights. I have replaced everything except them in mine as I doubled the horsepower, and the uprights work just fine. The only rust possibility is where the body meets the tube frame. Look for cracks in the tubes where the engine mounts connect. They're easily weldable. The fun factor is off the charts. The car is quick and handles well, and you'll meet lots of people with questions, particularly "what is it?".... even more than Triumph gets. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 (my first car-needs restoration) 65 TR4A (slowly deteriorating project) 67 Lotus Cortina (needs work) 70 TVR Vixen S2 (race car-where all the time and money goes) From L1J1S at aol.com Thu Jul 12 17:56:52 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 19:56:52 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 bow screws Message-ID: hello, trying to find the correct length for the screw that bolts the bow to the body.the only info i have is the size is 1/4 x 28 x ????. larry schwartz ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From jhassall at blacksburg.net Thu Jul 12 18:08:33 2007 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 20:08:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! Message-ID: <4696C281.9030005@blacksburg.net> I'm pleased to announce that after almost 14 years of silence, my TR4 engine has once again found its voice, and sweeeeeet it is! At about 2230 3 JUL (we have very forgiving neighbors) it barked to life (tubular headers, no muffler yet) on the first crank. A *huge* "thanks" goes to Dale Osterndorf, my buddy and owner of a show-winning TR6, for helping out and keeping me sane as the preparations neared completion. The first run only lasted about 5 minutes due to a lean condition - the headers glowed red. On 4 JUL we covered about 30% of the Weber throats to richen the mixture and ran in the Isky 777 cam for 15 minutes. I kept a room fan blowing on the headers the whole time just to be sure. Engine prep: re-profiled, ported and CCd the head (all chambers 1 0.2 cc), 10:1 CR, port-matched the tubular header, 5 angle valve job, all seats hardened and blended into ports. Unshrouded the intake valves and cut matching "eyebrows" in the sleeves (as an aside, I cut the head 3/16" from the intake valve lip, which caused head gasket sealing problems); Jack Drews' custom head gasket saved the day. Intake ports enlarged to match Canon manifolds. Weber 40 DCOE carbs with custom throttle linkage. Rods lightened, balanced dead nuts, magged and shot peened. ARP rod and head bolts. All pistons balanced dead nuts. All rotating components balanced as an assembly (had it not been for the "racket" and heat, you wouldn't have known the engine was running - it was rock solid steady!), Aluminum flywheel with 6 ARP bolts. Lip-type rear seal. Alternator, extensive use of extra fuses, Crane XR3000 ignition with Pertronix PS60 coil, Magnecor wires, NGK plugs. Clearanced the oil pump (had 50 PSI using a drill to pre-oil the engine, 100 PSI cold, 70 hot). Competition push rods, lightened and balanced tappets. 0.062 shims under the rocker pedestals to maintain geometry, radiused rocker arms. Justin Wagner silcone valve cover gasket. I'm sure there's more stuff, but this list is long enough. This car will be about as close to my old DP car as I can get and still be street legal / driveable. The rest of the drive train and the suspenders have been heavily modified as well, but that's for another email. Yahoo! -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA 64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jul 12 18:19:44 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 20:19:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <20070712181528.IGFK26351.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070712140155.BPK47009@ms09.lnh.mail.rcn.net> <20070712181528.IGFK26351.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <001801c7c4e3$849a6640$240110ac@bobspc> Oh yea..... Hitting Reply now is the same as the old Reply All. Somebody will say something really embarrassing real soon I bet! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 2:15 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] test > Yeah, me too. But why does every note now come in with the receiver's > name and a line stuck to the bottom? I would guess that's the default for the new list software. Was a note from MJB saying Triumphs is on a temporary list/server while he figures out what's wrong; so perhaps he will change the trailer after we move to the final setup ... but for now, I'd suggest just being happy it works. You may notice another change : hitting "reply" no longer sends a private reply. I'll bet *that* gets fixed quickly ! Randall _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/897 - Release Date: 7/11/2007 9:57 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/897 - Release Date: 7/11/2007 9:57 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 12 18:34:13 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 17:34:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 bow screws In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <117901c7c4e5$89b31bc0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > hello, trying to find the correct length for the screw that > bolts the bow to > the body.the only info i have is the size is 1/4 x 28 x > ????. If you're talking about the soft top bows, then 3/4" will do. The hard part is finding a flat head 1/4-28 bolt. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jul 12 18:53:39 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 00:53:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] TRiumph 2 questions Message-ID: <071320070053.15225.4696CD13000B108400003B7922120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Man, the List is back online just in time! 1) I've just blown my manifold gasket for the second time, both about 8,000 miles. 'Course, I admit, I drive 80 MPH on the way to work every day, and once hit 100 passing a car that decided to speed up while I was going by...you know the type. The inlet and exhaust manifolds are not buggered up, and I've been able to get good leverage on the bottom nuts. So...is there any special manifold gasket or trick that can keep me from having to go through this each year? 2) Wavering speedometer. I had my speedometer (and other gauges) rebuilt by MO MA. Now the speedometer is wobbling back and forth over a 15 mph range while I'm driving. Oddly, it seems steady when the car is cold and at lower speeds. Could the speedometer transmission sending gear be a problem? Glad to have you back, all. Terry Smith (TR3A TS 58667) New Hampshire From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Thu Jul 12 19:02:32 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 20:02:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRiumph 2 questions In-Reply-To: <071320070053.15225.4696CD13000B108400003B7922120207849C9D9 79D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <071320070053.15225.4696CD13000B108400003B7922120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <200707130102.l6D12cGG473016@ns3.geneseo.net> I sell a manifold gasket set that solves the problems. It is compacted graphite, 1/8" thick, compresses to half the thickness, good for over 2000 deg F, intake port holes the right size as opposed to oversize holes in the ones in the kits. Kinda pricey at $67 including shipping, but they solve the problem. If interested, send me your mailing address and send a check for $7 payable to "uncle jack's racing. At 07:53 PM 7/12/2007, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >Man, the List is back online just in time! > >1) I've just blown my manifold gasket for the second time, both >about 8,000 miles. 'Course, I admit, I drive 80 MPH on the way to >work every day, and once hit 100 passing a car that decided to speed >up while I was going by...you know the type. > >The inlet and exhaust manifolds are not buggered up, and I've been >able to get good leverage on the bottom nuts. > >So...is there any special manifold gasket or trick that can keep me >from having to go through this each year? > uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net Thu Jul 12 19:03:55 2007 From: wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net (William Babbitt) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 18:03:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Moss 6 vane water pump Message-ID: <240086.77455.qm@web81011.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Has anyone had experience with these 6 vane water pumps from Moss? I picked one up for my TR3a (TR4a engine). I've noticed two things: The shaft material is soft, and The shaft is shorter than stock. The shaft lenght concerns me the most since it does not fully fill the cavity in the pulley. As a result the nut is not fully driven home. It is an elastic stop nut. I also used Locktite as a backup. thanks, Bill From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jul 12 19:06:17 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 01:06:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors Message-ID: <071320070106.28934.4696D009000DEF690000710622120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > ed, then why does the trf have a number for it? they are and > have been n/a > for quite some time. the tenex fasterners, don't they get > screwed into the wood? Dunno about availability of the wood blocks, but when I was restoring mine, the place the side screen brackets screwed into was stripped. I was able, though, to drill holes and glue/plug with oak dowells to give me a solid screw surface. Works great. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jul 12 19:12:04 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 01:12:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] TRiumph 2 questions Message-ID: <071320070112.18497.4696D16400040A370000484122120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Whoo baby! A $60 discount! (:0) Ehr, I suspec t amisprint? Terry Smith 214 Currier Road Hill, NH 03243 I do appreciate this. I don't want to have to slow down! You'll have to give me your address, so I can send the check.... Terry -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Jack W. Drews" > I sell a manifold gasket set that solves the problems. It is > compacted graphite, 1/8" thick, compresses to half the thickness, > good for over 2000 deg F, intake port holes the right size as opposed > to oversize holes in the ones in the kits. > > Kinda pricey at $67 including shipping, but they solve the problem. > > If interested, send me your mailing address and send a check for $7 > payable to "uncle jack's racing. > > At 07:53 PM 7/12/2007, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > >Man, the List is back online just in time! > > > >1) I've just blown my manifold gasket for the second time, both > >about 8,000 miles. 'Course, I admit, I drive 80 MPH on the way to > >work every day, and once hit 100 passing a car that decided to speed > >up while I was going by...you know the type. > > > >The inlet and exhaust manifolds are not buggered up, and I've been > >able to get good leverage on the bottom nuts. > > > >So...is there any special manifold gasket or trick that can keep me > >from having to go through this each year? > > > > uncle jack > > > > ------------------------------------------------ > No Virus Found In This Message > Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net > _______________________________________________ > terryrs at comcast.net > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From L1J1S at aol.com Thu Jul 12 19:39:04 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 21:39:04 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 bow screws Message-ID: one can always use a screw that is used to mount the doors to the hinges. just trim down the lenght of the screw. ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jul 12 20:37:44 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 19:37:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 bow screws In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: They're a lot easier to install if they have that pointy tip. Mine are 5/8" long -- that's the threaded portion and the pointy tip. That may be the same as the screws for the door hinges? Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 6:39 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 bow screws > one can always use a screw that is used to mount the doors to the hinges. > just trim down the lenght of the screw. From fishplate at charter.net Thu Jul 12 21:04:28 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 23:04:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRiumph 2 questions In-Reply-To: <071320070053.15225.4696CD13000B108400003B7922120207849C9D9 79D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <071320070053.15225.4696CD13000B108400003B7922120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20070713030433.EAHJ7864.aa03.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 08:53 PM 7/12/2007, you wrote: > >2) Wavering speedometer. I had my speedometer (and other gauges) >rebuilt by MO MA. Now the speedometer is wobbling back and forth >over a 15 mph range while I'm driving. Oddly, it seems steady when >the car is cold and at lower speeds. Could the speedometer >transmission sending gear be a problem? I'd get a tube of powdered graphite at your FLAPS...put a bit down the cable and let it work it's way in. My Spitfire had the same problem, now it's much steadier. Jeff Scarbrough Spitfire, Spitfire, TR6, Spitfire... -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/898 - Release Date: 7/12/2007 4:08 PM From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Jul 12 21:08:09 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 23:08:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cool moving Windshield Wipers Message-ID: <004001c7c4fb$0c741cc0$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I think I brought this up before... I'm hopefully doing the last installation of my windshield wipers on my TR3. Because I want to be 'cool', I decided to try and see if I can make them slap back-and-forth in a opposite manner. (so that the two wiper blades meet in the middle) Someone told me this was possible. But in order to do it I think I might leave out the straight middle tube (that the cable moves in). If you recall there are 3 tubing segments: the one closest to the motor is curved, then this straight middle tube between the two wheelboxes, and finally a short stub which is beyond the last wheelbox. Normally (I think), both wheel boxes are oriented exactly alike, resulting in both wipers operating identical. However, by revolving one wheelbox 180 degrees, the gears engage the cable in the opposite direction. This should be kosher, except for THE SLIGHTLY LONGER middle-straight-tube THAT SHOULD be required (as the cable contacts the gears on opposite sides of the spindles). In fact, I might be able to get by without installing this middle straight tube that covers the moving cable. No worry (I think, as this is well out of reach and under the dash and just below the vent hood box.) Is there anything wrong with leaving out this straight middle tube? thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jul 12 21:23:50 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 20:23:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cool moving Windshield Wipers In-Reply-To: <004001c7c4fb$0c741cc0$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <004001c7c4fb$0c741cc0$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <6E9445EA61B3415AABDE950830762180@GeoPC> Paul, you are the limit. The absolute limit. Your creativity knows no bounds. Sorry I can't answer your question but enjoyed the visual image of those wipers waving. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" > Because I want to be 'cool', I decided to try and see if I can make them > slap > back-and-forth in a opposite manner. From triumphs at consolidated.net Thu Jul 12 21:33:09 2007 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano pda) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 22:33:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] broke brakes Message-ID: <11745-SnapperMsg0544D065C2BCA31F@[216.176.88.66]> TR3 was loaded and rolling East towards PVGP / TRF / VTR. 15 miles out and lost brakes. See everyone there, but in a Toyota. :-( >From pda sorry 'bout spelling & typo's :-) From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jul 12 21:47:22 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 23:47:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] broke brakes In-Reply-To: <11745-SnapperMsg0544D065C2BCA31F@[216.176.88.66]> Message-ID: <4696BD8A.32368.726496E@localhost> On 12 Jul 2007 at 22:33, Ken Gano pda wrote: > TR3 was loaded and rolling East towards PVGP / TRF / VTR. 15 miles > out and lost brakes. Experience has shown that driving to VTR is one of the best ways to make something on your Triumph break. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/897 - Release Date: 7/11/2007 9:57 PM From triumphs at consolidated.net Thu Jul 12 21:44:59 2007 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano pda) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 22:44:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRiumph 2 questions In-Reply-To: <200707130102.l6D12cGG473016@ns3.geneseo.net> References: <071320070053.15225.4696CD13000B108400003B7922120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> <200707130102.l6D12cGG473016@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <1767-SnapperMsg0544D065C2BCA8C9@[216.176.88.185]> A very good product. Nfa. Just a satisfied customer. ...... Original Message ....... On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 20:02:32 -0500 "Jack W. Drews" wrote: >I sell a manifold gasket set that solves the problems. It is >compacted graphite, 1/8" thick, compresses to half the thickness, >good for over 2000 deg F, intake port holes the right size as opposed >to oversize holes in the ones in the kits. > >Kinda pricey at $67 including shipping, but they solve the problem. > >If interested, send me your mailing address and send a check for $7 >payable to "uncle jack's racing. > >At 07:53 PM 7/12/2007, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >>Man, the List is back online just in time! >> >>1) I've just blown my manifold gasket for the second time, both >>about 8,000 miles. 'Course, I admit, I drive 80 MPH on the way to >>work every day, and once hit 100 passing a car that decided to speed >>up while I was going by...you know the type. >> >>The inlet and exhaust manifolds are not buggered up, and I've been >>able to get good leverage on the bottom nuts. >> >>So...is there any special manifold gasket or trick that can keep me >>from having to go through this each year? >> > >uncle jack > > > >------------------------------------------------ >No Virus Found In This Message >Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net >_______________________________________________ >triumphs at consolidated.net > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >From pda sorry 'bout spelling & typo's :-) From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jul 12 22:10:47 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 22:10:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cool moving Windshield Wipers In-Reply-To: <004001c7c4fb$0c741cc0$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070713041056.B5C64187AA4@autox.team.net> Paul, Don't know if anyone can answer, but I think you are going to try it anyway. Hope you can post some video. Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 L(O) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 9:08 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Cool moving Windshield Wipers I think I brought this up before... I'm hopefully doing the last installation of my windshield wipers on my TR3. Because I want to be 'cool', I decided to try and see if I can make them slap back-and-forth in a opposite manner. (so that the two wiper blades meet in the middle) Someone told me this was possible. But in order to do it I think I might leave out the straight middle tube (that the cable moves in). If you recall there are 3 tubing segments: the one closest to the motor is curved, then this straight middle tube between the two wheelboxes, and finally a short stub which is beyond the last wheelbox. Normally (I think), both wheel boxes are oriented exactly alike, resulting in both wipers operating identical. However, by revolving one wheelbox 180 degrees, the gears engage the cable in the opposite direction. This should be kosher, except for THE SLIGHTLY LONGER middle-straight-tube THAT SHOULD be required (as the cable contacts the gears on opposite sides of the spindles). In fact, I might be able to get by without installing this middle straight tube that covers the moving cable. No worry (I think, as this is well out of reach and under the dash and just below the vent hood box.) Is there anything wrong with leaving out this straight middle tube? thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/898 - Release Date: 7/12/2007 4:08 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/898 - Release Date: 7/12/2007 4:08 PM From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu Thu Jul 12 22:10:48 2007 From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 21:10:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] two questions Message-ID: <4696FB48.8070800@mrl.ucsb.edu> Regarding the jumpy speedo: I had a similar problem and a new speedo cable solved the problem. That's after farting around with trying to lubricate the old one. BTDT. Make sure you route it in such a way as to have the largest radius turns possible. -jeffrey '62 TR4 From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Jul 12 22:32:00 2007 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 22:32:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Here I come Message-ID: <003701c7c506$c291a8f0$ef50464b@rolofson> BlankI know I've forgotten something since I seem way too organized this time but I'm off to Valley Forge in the AM. Gonna do some blue highway driving, visit Mom, and generally goof off until I get there Tuesday. I'll try to keep it close to 500 miles per day...seems to be about right for my constituion these days. Be safe and I'll see y'all soon. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From bdischer at blakedischer.com Thu Jul 12 23:56:46 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 01:56:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Here I come In-Reply-To: <003701c7c506$c291a8f0$ef50464b@rolofson> Message-ID: <002a01c7c512$9ba762f0$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> Hey Bud, A bunch of us from the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club are heading out in two groups Monday morning. The car I take is likely the TR6 since the Stag has a bad harmonic driveline vibration at about 4200rpm and the 2000 Mk1 won't shift into OD and badly needs a respray. If I get either the Stag or 2000 sorted I'll take one of them since our 3-year old will be following with mom in her air-conditioned SUV and once we get there we'd like to park the SUV and travel as a family unit in a Triumph. I'll be busy this weekend! See you there. Blake Discher -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of levilevi Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 12:32 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Here I come BlankI know I've forgotten something since I seem way too organized this time but I'm off to Valley Forge in the AM. Gonna do some blue highway driving, visit Mom, and generally goof off until I get there Tuesday. I'll try to keep it close to 500 miles per day...seems to be about right for my constituion these days. Be safe and I'll see y'all soon. Bud Rolofson From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Fri Jul 13 03:08:36 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 04:08:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRiumph 2 questions In-Reply-To: <071320070112.18497.4696D16400040A370000484122120207849C9D9 79D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <071320070112.18497.4696D16400040A370000484122120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <200707130908.l6D98hcj045123@ns3.geneseo.net> Sorry, that's the price - $67.00. Very low production numbers, very high tech stuff. Address: uncle jack's racing 514 North Vail Street Geneseo IL 61254 At 08:12 PM 7/12/2007, you wrote: >Whoo baby! A $60 discount! > >(:0) > >Ehr, I suspec t amisprint? > >Terry Smith >214 Currier Road >Hill, NH 03243 > >I do appreciate this. I don't want to have to slow down! > >You'll have to give me your address, so I can send the check.... > >Terry > >-------------- Original message -------------- >From: "Jack W. Drews" > > > I sell a manifold gasket set that solves the problems. It is > > compacted graphite, 1/8" thick, compresses to half the thickness, > > good for over 2000 deg F, intake port holes the right size as opposed > > to oversize holes in the ones in the kits. > > > > Kinda pricey at $67 including shipping, but they solve the problem. > > > > If interested, send me your mailing address and send a check for $7 > > payable to "uncle jack's racing. > > > > At 07:53 PM 7/12/2007, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > > >Man, the List is back online just in time! > > > > > >1) I've just blown my manifold gasket for the second time, both > > >about 8,000 miles. 'Course, I admit, I drive 80 MPH on the way to > > >work every day, and once hit 100 passing a car that decided to speed > > >up while I was going by...you know the type. > > > > > >The inlet and exhaust manifolds are not buggered up, and I've been > > >able to get good leverage on the bottom nuts. > > > > > >So...is there any special manifold gasket or trick that can keep me > > >from having to go through this each year? > > > > > > > uncle jack > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------ > > No Virus Found In This Message > > Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net > > _______________________________________________ > > terryrs at comcast.net > > > > Triumphs mailing list > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Jul 13 04:59:24 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 06:59:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] oximoron battery box Message-ID: <004e01c7c53c$e199a140$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Besides 'cool', I am also 'cheap'. I'am considering a TR3 battery box on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR2-TR3-TR3A-TR3B-Plastic-battery-Box_ W0QQitemZ260138764608QQihZ016QQcategoryZ34201QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem But it has slits in the bottom. If so, what usefulness does it have when using on a new battery box? Perhaps I better let this auction get away from me. But then again, perhaps I could melt my crayons for a new bottom! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From aribert.neumann at edag-us.com Fri Jul 13 05:41:49 2007 From: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com (Aribert Neumann) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 07:41:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wedgie in Detroit area salvage yard Message-ID: Wednesday afternoon I saw a '76 TR7 coupe at Parts Galore, 11360 E 8 Mi Rd. The car was very complete (not picked over, not overly rusty, even had a complete A/C). The car is in the old car section, not in the import section. Parts Galore is a pick & pull type of a salvage yard with a fairly quick turn over although the old cars tend to remain there for several months before being crushed. They also had a very rust but fairly complete TR6 along with a Midget or two. Back off to digest mode. -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean. From stantr6 at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 05:47:19 2007 From: stantr6 at comcast.net (stantr6 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 11:47:19 +0000 Subject: [TR] Cool moving Windshield Wipers Message-ID: <071320071147.1732.46976647000B546A000006C42216525806C09D9B020E9B9C@comcast.net> Paul, I'm familiar with the TR6 cable-in-tube arrangement that operates the wipers, presumably the TR3 is similar. I had to replace a section of tube in mine (don't recall why), it is easy to fabricate. It is fuel line, single flared so the ends are captured by the wheelboxes. I suggest making a new tube to fit between the wheelboxes. The cable itself, although strong, may still flex just enough to mess up the wiper timing. The first two tubes keep the cable in line and therefore the timing set. Particularly with wipers converging, timing will be critical. Good luck, Stan -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Paul Dorsey" > I think I brought this up before... > I'm hopefully doing the last installation of my windshield wipers on my TR3. > Because I want to be 'cool', I decided to try and see if I can make them slap > back-and-forth in a opposite manner. (so that the two wiper blades meet in the > middle) Someone told me this was possible. > But in order to do it I think I might leave out the straight middle tube > (that the cable moves in). If you recall there are 3 tubing segments: the one > closest to the motor is curved, then this straight middle tube between the two > wheelboxes, and finally a short stub which is beyond the last wheelbox. > Normally (I think), both wheel boxes are oriented exactly alike, resulting in > both wipers operating identical. However, by revolving one wheelbox 180 > degrees, the gears engage the cable in the opposite direction. > This should be kosher, except for THE SLIGHTLY LONGER middle-straight-tube > THAT SHOULD be required (as the cable contacts the gears on opposite sides of > the spindles). In fact, I might be able to get by without installing this > middle straight tube that covers the moving cable. No worry (I think, as this > is well out of reach and under the dash and just below the vent hood box.) > > Is there anything wrong with leaving out this straight middle tube? > > thanks, Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > stantr6 at comcast.net > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jul 13 05:49:53 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 07:49:53 EDT Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: In a message dated 7/12/2007 9:32:10 AM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Nope, sorry, you flunked. > > It's D.a.v.e .... > Daisy, Daisy, give me your answer true. I'm half c.r.a..z...y......a.....l.......l............f...................o.......................................r From peterara at msn.com Fri Jul 13 06:14:02 2007 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 05:14:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph 2 questions - cable Message-ID: A wavering gauge generally means your cable is winding in and out - it may be about to fail. My understanding from gauge rebuilders is you should NOT use graphite on the cable. Pull the inside cable out, run it through a gob, that's a technical term, of grease, wheel bearing grease will do, in your palm and put it back. Not too much grease on cable, just a surface coating. Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 06:42:09 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 08:42:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors References: Message-ID: <010401c7c54b$3a96d110$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Larry, There are wood blocks for the side curtain brackets on the post 60000 cars. Lift The Dot fasteners have machine screw threads for lock washers and nuts. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 6:43 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr3-a doors > ed, then why does the trf have a number for it? they are and have been n/a > for quite some time. the tenex fasterners, don't they get screwed into the > wood? > larry > > > > ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL > at > http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour > _______________________________________________ > fogbro1 at comcast.net > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/898 - Release Date: 7/12/2007 > 4:08 PM From kentech0822 at verizon.net Fri Jul 13 06:43:04 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 08:43:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Moss 6 vane water pump In-Reply-To: <240086.77455.qm@web81011.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <240086.77455.qm@web81011.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001c01c7c54b$5d3e46d0$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> Bill, I'd check for interference with the pump housing, Specifically check the pass side pump casting at 10 o'clock position hitting the inside of the pulley where it tapers. Mine required a little burr work to clear. Also needed a couple of dead blow hammer taps to drive the pulley home. Also, has the key slide backwards out of the keyway? PeterK -----Original Message----- From: William Babbitt [mailto:wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 9:04 PM To: List Triumph Subject: [TR] Moss 6 vane water pump Has anyone had experience with these 6 vane water pumps from Moss? I picked one up for my TR3a (TR4a engine). I've noticed two things: The shaft material is soft, and The shaft is shorter than stock. The shaft lenght concerns me the most since it does not fully fill the cavity in the pulley. As a result the nut is not fully driven home. It is an elastic stop nut. I also used Locktite as a backup. thanks, Bill From kentech0822 at verizon.net Fri Jul 13 06:45:36 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 08:45:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! In-Reply-To: <4696C281.9030005@blacksburg.net> References: <4696C281.9030005@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <001d01c7c54b$b6236320$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> Congrats on the engine Jim. Sounds like it sounds like a beast with straight pipes and a 777 cam - holy carp is this for the street?! PeterK -----Original Message----- From: J.C. Hassall [mailto:jhassall at blacksburg.net] Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 8:09 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! I'm pleased to announce that after almost 14 years of silence, my TR4 engine has once again found its voice, and sweeeeeet it is! At about 2230 3 JUL (we have very forgiving neighbors) it barked to life (tubular headers, no muffler yet) on the first crank. A *huge* "thanks" goes to Dale Osterndorf, my buddy and owner of a show-winning TR6, for helping out and keeping me sane as the preparations neared completion. The first run only lasted about 5 minutes due to a lean condition - the headers glowed red. On 4 JUL we covered about 30% of the Weber throats to richen the mixture and ran in the Isky 777 cam for 15 minutes. I kept a room fan blowing on the headers the whole time just to be sure. Engine prep: re-profiled, ported and CCd the head (all chambers 1 0.2 cc), 10:1 CR, port-matched the tubular header, 5 angle valve job, all seats hardened and blended into ports. Unshrouded the intake valves and cut matching "eyebrows" in the sleeves (as an aside, I cut the head 3/16" from the intake valve lip, which caused head gasket sealing problems); Jack Drews' custom head gasket saved the day. Intake ports enlarged to match Canon manifolds. Weber 40 DCOE carbs with custom throttle linkage. Rods lightened, balanced dead nuts, magged and shot peened. ARP rod and head bolts. All pistons balanced dead nuts. All rotating components balanced as an assembly (had it not been for the "racket" and heat, you wouldn't have known the engine was running - it was rock solid steady!), Aluminum flywheel with 6 ARP bolts. Lip-type rear seal. Alternator, extensive use of extra fuses, Crane XR3000 ignition with Pertronix PS60 coil, Magnecor wires, NGK plugs. Clearanced the oil pump (had 50 PSI using a drill to pre-oil the engine, 100 PSI cold, 70 hot). Competition push rods, lightened and balanced tappets. 0.062 shims under the rocker pedestals to maintain geometry, radiused rocker arms. Justin Wagner silcone valve cover gasket. I'm sure there's more stuff, but this list is long enough. This car will be about as close to my old DP car as I can get and still be street legal / driveable. The rest of the drive train and the suspenders have been heavily modified as well, but that's for another email. Yahoo! -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA 64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go From cartr4a at ameritech.net Fri Jul 13 07:01:26 2007 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 06:01:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Test-Delete Message-ID: <562146.50972.qm@web80211.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Jul 13 07:40:39 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 14:40:39 +0100 Subject: [TR] OT: TVR 2500M References: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488FE7F3F4@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> Message-ID: <013001c7c553$66988ee0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Hi, Bill GET THE TVR!!!!!!!! Don't procrastinate or you'll regret the opportunity. Checked out your website too about the 250. Like it. Just a word of advice from a dyed-in-the-wool-Brit, it's Rule Brittania and not Hail Brittania :) Cheers, Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steinman, Bill" To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 7:54 PM Subject: [TR] OT: TVR 2500M > Howdy all. Any thoughts from the collective on whether I should dive > into the TVR world and pick up a fairly clean '74 2500M? Thanks! > > > Bill S. > 2005 Lotus Elise > 1968 Triumph TR-250 > 1965 Sunbeam Tiger > 1965 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III > www.TR-250.com > > Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows... > > > > > > NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential > information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you > have > received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, > retransmit, > disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to > the > sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the > copy > you received. > > IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are > required > to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any > attachment > hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties > imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. > > Thank you. > _______________________________________________ > standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 08:11:54 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 14:11:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water Message-ID: <071320071411.10511.4697882A000074BC0000290F22070209539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" > Guess it depends on what is in your tap water... but it likely contains > either naturally occuring or added minerals and chemicals that yield an > unsuitable pH and has other nasty effects (corrosion & deposits). > > I use either distilled water or filtered rain water (though I wonder about > the latter). For about a buck a gallon, I'll stick with the distilled water. Not only does it not bring in its own disolved minerals, it helps disolve minerals that are already present in your engine. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From jgillis at tcd.ie Fri Jul 13 08:29:45 2007 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 15:29:45 +0100 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water Message-ID: <1184336985.46978c59c6238@mymail.tcd.ie> Thanks all for the sound advice, I have deionised water on tap (no pun inteded) in my lab so will bring it home in 2 litres at a time on the bike. John From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 13 08:42:20 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 07:42:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] oximoron battery box In-Reply-To: <004e01c7c53c$e199a140$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070713144220.GXZW16178.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Besides 'cool', I am also 'cheap'. > > I'am considering a TR3 battery box on ebay That's what they call "penny wise and pound foolish". Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 13 08:52:27 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 07:52:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cool moving Windshield Wipers In-Reply-To: <004001c7c4fb$0c741cc0$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070713145229.UASP12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Is there anything wrong with leaving out this straight middle tube? Yes. The inner cable is flexible, and so will buckle in operation rather than move the RH wiper. As already suggested, you need to fabricate the longer tube. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 13 09:24:46 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 08:24:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRiumph 2 questions In-Reply-To: <071320070053.15225.4696CD13000B108400003B7922120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20070713152445.HYWK26351.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > So...is there any special manifold gasket or trick that can > keep me from having to go through this each year? Jack's gaskets are probably the best trick. But I solved the problem on my TR3A many years ago by : Make sure both manifold surfaces are flat and in-line with each other. If necessary, take them to a shop and have them milled flat just like a cylinder head. I dressed mine up with careful filing and checking with a straight-edge. Check the head surface, too. I took all the studs out and lightly dressed it with a flat file, discovering high spots around the stud holes. Make sure the stud threads are clean and not distorted. Also check the lengths to be certain the nuts are not bottoming on the threads. There are 4 different lengths of studs available (although early cars only used 3 of them). Also be sure the locating pins are in place and that the intake fits cleanly over them. Make sure the exhaust manifold isn't fouling on the engine block, where it sticks out below the head surface. I removed the bolts between the intake and exhaust manifolds. Mostly because I didn't want all that heat going into the intake (cold air means more power), but I think it had a positive effect on sealing as well. The exhaust manifold expands significantly when it gets hot, and will pull the intake away from the head if they are fastened tightly together. Put a heavy flat washer between the lockwasher and the manifold on the outermost studs. Replace the lock washers with new, every time you take them off. (Ok, I check to see how far they spring back and only replace the ones that have lost their spring. But that is frequently all of them.) Most important, retorque the nuts at least yearly. > 2) Wavering speedometer. I had my speedometer (and other > gauges) rebuilt by MO MA. Now the speedometer is wobbling > back and forth over a 15 mph range while I'm driving. Oddly, > it seems steady when the car is cold and at lower speeds. > Could the speedometer transmission sending gear be a problem? More likely the cable, IMO. Slim chance it might be the speedo head (although I've never heard of MO MA making such a mistake, they're only human); one quick check is to temporarily connect the tach to the speedo cable and see if it wavers too. Randall From peter at nosimport.com Fri Jul 13 09:31:59 2007 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 10:31:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water In-Reply-To: <1184336985.46978c59c6238@mymail.tcd.ie> References: <1184336985.46978c59c6238@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070713102958.035b0a58@nosimport.com> John, Careful there. DI water "wants" to ionize itself and will grab available ions from places where they should be left. Peter C ==== At 09:29 AM 7/13/2007, John Gillis wrote: >Thanks all for the sound advice, I have deionised water on tap (no pun >inteded) >in my lab so will bring it home in 2 litres at a time on the bike. >John From GregoryMChait at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 10:08:23 2007 From: GregoryMChait at comcast.net (GregoryMChait at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 16:08:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine Message-ID: <071320071608.23856.4697A3770004028400005D3022165514069B070E08BCB3979D01090A9DB9@comcast.net> I want to build a streetable performance engine for my 1975 TR6. I'd love to get to 150 HP if I can get it reliably. I'm not a fan of rough idles. I've purchased a rebuilt 1976 short block - new Moss crankshaft, new 0.40 Moss pistons, new Moss rings, new Moss bearings. I plan on upgrading all fasteners with ARP. I have purchased triple Weber DCOE carbs in anticipation of installing a 9.5 to 1 compression ratio cylinder head and a hotter cam. 1. What cam should I use? I'd like a nice performance street engine with a good idle and no flat spots. 2. I can work over either a 1969 cylinder head or a 1975 cylinder head. Which one is best to start with? 3. I understand that the different heads require different intake manifolds. I'd anticipated replacing valves with rimflows, valve guides with bronze, and valve seats with hardened seats. With the carb and cam set up, do I need to port the head? 4. What Weber needles and other adjustments need I make with the setup you suggest to avoid acceleration flat spots? 5. Are there any engine parts for TR6 engines that I should look out for? For example, people are having a terrible time with cam followers for MGB engines. Any similar parts of woe for TR6 engines? Thank you very much. From GregoryMChait at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 10:09:39 2007 From: GregoryMChait at comcast.net (GregoryMChait at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 16:09:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water Message-ID: <071320071609.27877.4697A3C3000F0F0B00006CE522165514069B070E08BCB3979D01090A9DB9@comcast.net> I want to build a streetable performance engine for my 1975 TR6. I'd love to get to 150 HP if I can get it reliably. I'm not a fan of rough idles. I've purchased a rebuilt 1976 short block - new Moss crankshaft, new 0.40 Moss pistons, new Moss rings, new Moss bearings. It was only $600, and I could not resist at that price. I plan on upgrading all fasteners with ARP. I have purchased triple Weber DCOE carbs in anticipation of installing a 9.5 to 1 compression ratio cylinder head and a hotter cam. 1. What cam should I use? I'd like a nice performance street engine with a good idle and no flat spots. 2. I can work over either a 1969 cylinder head or a 1975 cylinder head. Which one is best to start with? 3. I understand that the different heads require different intake manifolds. I'd anticipated replacing valves with rimflows, valve guides with bronze, and valve seats with hardened seats. With the carb and cam set up, do I need to port the head? 4. What Weber needles and other adjustments need I make with the setup you suggest? 5. Are there any engine parts for TR6 engines that I should look out for? For example, people are having a terrible time with cam followers for MGB engines. Any similar parts of woe for TR6 engines? -------------- Original message -------------- From: Peter C > John, > Careful there. DI water "wants" to ionize itself and will > grab available ions from places where they should be left. > > Peter C > ==== > At 09:29 AM 7/13/2007, John Gillis wrote: > > >Thanks all for the sound advice, I have deionised water on tap (no pun > >inteded) > >in my lab so will bring it home in 2 litres at a time on the bike. > >John > _______________________________________________ > gregorymchait at comcast.net > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From darrellw at ipns.com Fri Jul 13 10:14:14 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 09:14:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: <071320071608.23856.4697A3770004028400005D3022165514069B070E08BCB3979D01090A9DB9@comcast.net> References: <071320071608.23856.4697A3770004028400005D3022165514069B070E08BCB3979D01090A9DB9@comcast.net> Message-ID: <564B8D38-430F-4DAC-9B39-1DDD6E7FA94E@ipns.com> Maybe more that you are looking to spend, but the Moss supercharger with the big boost kit is supposed to get 150 hp: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=47648 http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/pdf/150-108_Bigboost.pdf -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 13 11:01:20 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 10:01:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: <564B8D38-430F-4DAC-9B39-1DDD6E7FA94E@ipns.com> Message-ID: <20070713170121.THUP19079.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Maybe more that you are looking to spend, but the Moss > supercharger with the big boost kit is supposed to get 150 hp: Which is ironic, since it's reputedly easy to get that much using the ordinary (and less expensive) mods : camshaft, compression & breathing. Kas Kastner claimed he could get more power with the ZS carbs than with the Lucas PI. Randall From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Jul 13 11:04:07 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 10:04:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] oximoron battery box In-Reply-To: <004e01c7c53c$e199a140$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <004e01c7c53c$e199a140$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <0768460228F94FCAB5ED0C06A345BCA5@GeoPC> I am cheap and long to be cool. That eBay box is more or less trash but I have considered making one out of plywood (maybe 3/8') and sealing it with caulk at the edges and rubberized spray on that. I do not particularly like the look of the plastic ones so I would make it more discreet. I already use wood blocks behind and on each side of the battery to hold it centered so I would build those into the thing. Probably a winter project. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" > Besides 'cool', I am also 'cheap'. > > I'am considering a TR3 battery box on ebay... From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Jul 13 11:10:03 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 10:10:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! In-Reply-To: <001d01c7c54b$b6236320$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> References: <4696C281.9030005@blacksburg.net> <001d01c7c54b$b6236320$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> Message-ID: Difficult to choose between 'holy crap' and 'holy mackerel'? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kentech HomeTech" > ... holy carp is this for the street?! > > PeterK From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Jul 13 11:22:36 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 13:22:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine Message-ID: In a message dated 7/13/2007 1:05:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Which is ironic, since it's reputedly easy to get that much using the ordinary (and less expensive) mods : camshaft, compression & breathing. Kas Kastner claimed he could get more power with the ZS carbs than with the Lucas PI. I have theoretically (by calculation versus actual dyno) obtained at least that much horsepower following Kas Kastner's race prep guidelines for cylinder head prep, etc; advice from Richard Good from Goodparts on camshaft/rockers, advice from Dick Stockton on carb tuning, ignition.......all from using a triple ZS carb setup with B1E Jag needles. I've seen the Moss supercharger installed on a TR6 - it looks pretty slick and I'm told it runs very well and I suspect that it wasn't as difficult to "dial -in" as my setup was. The supercharger wasn't available in 2002 when the bulk of my engine work was done as part of the restoration so I can't speak to cost comparisons but, from what I've read and seen, the supercharger kit seems to be a very nice power adder. One thing that appears to be evident with the supercharger is that the engine note in the exhaust isn't as "TR6" like as stock or modified TR6's....it sounds more "modern" - don't know how else to explain it! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA USA '76 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From skip47 at powernet.net Fri Jul 13 11:33:07 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 10:33:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water References: <1184336985.46978c59c6238@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <002701c7c573$ec1ca680$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Hi John- For a discussion of water and electrolysis, go to http://www.griffinradiator.com and then go to the tab marked "help", under which is a tab marked electrolysis. They're the experts, and they give you details to test your own car at home. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 65 TR4A 67 Lotus Cortina 70 TVR ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gillis" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 7:29 AM Subject: [TR] Oil and Water > Thanks all for the sound advice, I have deionised water on tap (no pun > inteded) > in my lab so will bring it home in 2 litres at a time on the bike. > John > _______________________________________________ > skip47 at powernet.net > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From spitlist at cox.net Fri Jul 13 12:00:48 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 11:00:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine References: Message-ID: <005f01c7c577$be90f6e0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> You have to be very careful adding a supercharger to an already prepared engine because the equivalent compression ratio increase may push the engine over the top as far as reliability is concerned. I am not all that sure that a stock engine would be very reliable with the added boost of a blower. The lower end of our little engines is pretty weak by comparison to the engines that come equipped by design for blowers or turbos and unless you actually lower the standard compression to offset the increase caused by the blower, you may end up doing a lot of damage to the bottom end. Things like rods through the block or broken crankshafts. My 2 cents worth Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 10:22 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine > In a message dated 7/13/2007 1:05:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > > Which is ironic, since it's reputedly easy to get that much using the > ordinary (and less expensive) mods : camshaft, compression & breathing. Kas > Kastner claimed he could get more power with the ZS carbs than with the > Lucas PI. > > > > I have theoretically (by calculation versus actual dyno) obtained at least > that much horsepower following Kas Kastner's race prep guidelines for cylinder > head prep, etc; advice from Richard Good from Goodparts on camshaft/rockers, > advice from Dick Stockton on carb tuning, ignition.......all from using a > triple ZS carb setup with B1E Jag needles. > > I've seen the Moss supercharger installed on a TR6 - it looks pretty slick > and I'm told it runs very well and I suspect that it wasn't as difficult to > "dial -in" as my setup was. The supercharger wasn't available in 2002 when the > bulk of my engine work was done as part of the restoration so I can't speak > to cost comparisons but, from what I've read and seen, the supercharger kit > seems to be a very nice power adder. One thing that appears to be evident > with the supercharger is that the engine note in the exhaust isn't as "TR6" like > as stock or modified TR6's....it sounds more "modern" - don't know how else > to explain it! > > Chip Krout > Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. > Skippack, PA USA > > '76 TR6 CF57822U From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca Fri Jul 13 12:00:48 2007 From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 12:00:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine Message-ID: <4697BDD0.4050705@shaw.ca> Two thoughts for you. First if you are replacing your rod bolts with ARP bolts be sure to have your rods resized at the same time this is a very important step when ever you replace your rod bolts, new bolts distort the big ends differently than the old bolts even if you are using new stock bolts you should resize your rods. Second if you are building this car to run mostly on the street you may want to look at Goodparts triple stromberg setup instead of triple webers. You'll get almost as much power and a lot better gas millage and they do a better job of dealing with altitude changes on road trips. As far as cam followers go everyone who runs a flat tappet cam is having troubles these days read this article for some very useful information. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/index.html Doug Hamilton 1960 Triumph TR3A 1963 Fiat Cabriolet > Message: 11 > Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 16:08:23 +0000 > From: GregoryMChait at comcast.net > Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > <071320071608.23856.4697A3770004028400005D3022165514069B070E08BCB3979D01090A9DB9 at comcast.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I want to build a streetable performance engine for my 1975 TR6. I'd love to get to 150 HP if I can get it reliably. I'm not a fan of rough idles. > I've purchased a rebuilt 1976 short block - new Moss crankshaft, new 0.40 Moss pistons, new Moss rings, new Moss bearings. I plan on upgrading all fasteners with ARP. I have purchased triple Weber DCOE carbs in anticipation of installing a 9.5 to 1 compression ratio cylinder head and a hotter cam. > > 1. What cam should I use? I'd like a nice performance street engine with a good idle and no flat spots. > > 2. I can work over either a 1969 cylinder head or a 1975 cylinder head. Which one is best to start with? > 3. I understand that the different heads require different intake manifolds. I'd anticipated replacing valves with rimflows, valve guides with bronze, and valve seats with hardened seats. With the carb and cam set up, do I need to port the head? > > 4. What Weber needles and other adjustments need I make with the setup you suggest to avoid acceleration flat spots? > > 5. Are there any engine parts for TR6 engines that I should look out for? For example, people are having a terrible time with cam followers for MGB engines. Any similar parts of woe for TR6 engines? > > Thank you very much. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 13 12:12:45 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 11:12:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: <005f01c7c577$be90f6e0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <005f01c7c577$be90f6e0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <122201c7c579$69480230$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > You have to be very careful adding a supercharger to an > already prepared engine I agree entirely. If you raise the stock compression ratio and then add a blower (which effectively both raises the compression ratio and heats the intake air), you may well wind up with an engine that requires more octane than is possible even with racing gas & additives. 'Blower' engines also don't like wild cams; as the positive intake pressure can wind up blowing fuel/air mixture into the exhaust during the overlap period. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 13 12:20:48 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 11:20:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil and Water In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20070713102958.035b0a58@nosimport.com> References: <1184336985.46978c59c6238@mymail.tcd.ie> <7.0.1.0.2.20070713102958.035b0a58@nosimport.com> Message-ID: <122301c7c57a$89777da0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Careful there. DI water "wants" to ionize itself and will > grab available ions from places where they should be left. Which is why you mix it with antifreeze or a corrosion-inhibitor product. Straight water is a bad idea, whether it's distilled, tap, rain or otherwise. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Jul 13 12:34:23 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 14:34:23 EDT Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! Message-ID: In a message dated 7/13/2007 11:22:51 AM Mountain Daylight Time, ahwahnee at cybertrails.com writes: Difficult to choose between 'holy crap' and 'holy mackerel'? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kentech HomeTech" > ... holy carp is this for the street?! Probably just didn't want to use Cod's name in vain.... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Jul 13 12:58:11 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 13:58:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! References: Message-ID: <000b01c7c57f$c2eaba70$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> There's a plaice for this kind of humor. But, brevity is the sole of wit so i will now stop whiting. Besides, its giving me a haddock and I am beginning to feel quite eel. Michael Marr Not as good a punster as Jim Muller... ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 1:34 PM Subject: Re: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! > In a message dated 7/13/2007 11:22:51 AM Mountain Daylight Time, > ahwahnee at cybertrails.com writes: > > Difficult to choose between 'holy crap' and 'holy mackerel'? > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kentech HomeTech" > >> ... holy carp is this for the street?! > > > Probably just didn't want to use Cod's name in vain.... > > Robert B. Houston > Texan in New Mexico From triosan at gmail.com Fri Jul 13 13:04:39 2007 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 12:04:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine Message-ID: <8cbd782d0707131204m3956cfc0jdb0d3c7fce1cf1e0@mail.gmail.com> Do not think Kas got 240+ HP with carbs like he did with PI [14:1 compression, rebuild about every 4 hours of use?]. 150 with 9.5:1 might be a reach. No one has mentioned the other variable on breathing -- and that is exhaust. The exhaust system is what sucks the gases out of the cylinder, not just the push of the piston [exhaust is up to 80% or more as I remember from the Vizzard article I read]. You do need to port the head and you probably need to go to a good tubular header and single 2.5" exhaust pipe system to optimize the power of the carbs and cam. I am having astreet car engine built now -- it will have the Webers, header, ported head, and a Kent D9 cam -- which is pretty aggressive but still idles ok for me -- it has been in the car before. This car will be for sale when I get it back together. It will contain the above rebuilt engine, an Electromotive crank fired ignition system, a Herman Van Den Akker Toyota 5 speed, a Good PArts conversion to the Nissan 300Z diff, racing seats, roll bar, fuel cell, and 16" Panasport wheels [plus the original seats, an unistalled luggage rack and conveyable top frame, and a set of steel rims with AVS intermediate tires]. Would be interested if anyone is interested in this car, and if so, what they would be willing to pay. I will setup a website with pictures when ready and offer the car to the Triumphs, 6Pack and FOT lists before going the eBay route. -- Chuck Arnold From KingR44916 at aol.com Fri Jul 13 13:24:41 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 15:24:41 EDT Subject: [TR] carbs Message-ID: i have a 76 tr6 and just got my distributor back from jeff from advanced and i'm still having the same problem with excelleration .at idle when i rev the motor and then back off it wants to stall .when i raise the pistons alittle it will stall out .i i enriched them all the way and still no difference what else affects the mixture any help on what to test ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From jimbpps at cox.net Fri Jul 13 13:40:08 2007 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 12:40:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRiumph 2 questions In-Reply-To: <20070713152445.HYWK26351.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> References: <071320070053.15225.4696CD13000B108400003B7922120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> <20070713152445.HYWK26351.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <609FD651AA634A9F8889E273A982F70C@JimofficePC> Randall, Just like always, excellent and right-on advice plus some very clever ideas for trouble shooting. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the list! Jim Jim Bauder '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 8:25 AM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] TRiumph 2 questions > So...is there any special manifold gasket or trick that can > keep me from having to go through this each year? Jack's gaskets are probably the best trick. But I solved the problem on my TR3A many years ago by : Make sure both manifold surfaces are flat and in-line with each other. If necessary, take them to a shop and have them milled flat just like a cylinder head. I dressed mine up with careful filing and checking with a straight-edge. Check the head surface, too. I took all the studs out and lightly dressed it with a flat file, discovering high spots around the stud holes. Make sure the stud threads are clean and not distorted. Also check the lengths to be certain the nuts are not bottoming on the threads. There are 4 different lengths of studs available (although early cars only used 3 of them). Also be sure the locating pins are in place and that the intake fits cleanly over them. Make sure the exhaust manifold isn't fouling on the engine block, where it sticks out below the head surface. I removed the bolts between the intake and exhaust manifolds. Mostly because I didn't want all that heat going into the intake (cold air means more power), but I think it had a positive effect on sealing as well. The exhaust manifold expands significantly when it gets hot, and will pull the intake away from the head if they are fastened tightly together. Put a heavy flat washer between the lockwasher and the manifold on the outermost studs. Replace the lock washers with new, every time you take them off. (Ok, I check to see how far they spring back and only replace the ones that have lost their spring. But that is frequently all of them.) Most important, retorque the nuts at least yearly. > 2) Wavering speedometer. I had my speedometer (and other > gauges) rebuilt by MO MA. Now the speedometer is wobbling > back and forth over a 15 mph range while I'm driving. Oddly, > it seems steady when the car is cold and at lower speeds. > Could the speedometer transmission sending gear be a problem? More likely the cable, IMO. Slim chance it might be the speedo head (although I've never heard of MO MA making such a mistake, they're only human); one quick check is to temporarily connect the tach to the speedo cable and see if it wavers too. Randall From kentech0822 at verizon.net Fri Jul 13 13:43:33 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 15:43:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! In-Reply-To: References: <4696C281.9030005@blacksburg.net><001d01c7c54b$b6236320$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> Message-ID: <000b01c7c586$1955a040$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> Being nice, but it is almost the same. My first reaction though, was holy $hit. That 777 cam is listed as max competition and must have an interesting lope at idle (probably around 1200rpm!) Hey Jim, does this mean, you're now almost 95% done? Have to change your signature. I would suggest "holy carp." -----Original Message----- From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn [mailto:ahwahnee at cybertrails.com] Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 1:10 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! Difficult to choose between 'holy crap' and 'holy mackerel'? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kentech HomeTech" > ... holy carp is this for the street?! > > PeterK From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Jul 13 13:44:31 2007 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 15:44:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Test-Delete In-Reply-To: <562146.50972.qm@web80211.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <562146.50972.qm@web80211.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6fa72a770707131244h2e31d019i2330965367828e56@mail.gmail.com> got it On 7/13/07, Jim wrote: > > > _______________________________________________ > ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Jul 13 14:26:35 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 16:26:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] oximoron battery box References: <20070713144220.GXZW16178.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <005701c7c58c$1d609270$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I think so too. Unless I could make it waterproof... Paul From L1J1S at aol.com Fri Jul 13 14:28:34 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 16:28:34 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3-a doors Message-ID: thanks ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ZoboHerald at aol.com Fri Jul 13 14:36:54 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 16:36:54 EDT Subject: [TR] broke brakes Message-ID: In a message dated 7/12/2007 11:47:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > TR3 was loaded and rolling East towards PVGP / TRF / VTR. 15 miles > out and lost brakes. Experience has shown that driving to VTR is one of the best ways to make something on your Triumph break. ==AM== But if you manage to make there regardless, it's likely one of the best places to get it fixed. I've seen it at nearly every VTR Convention I've attended over the years: have a problem and you'll draw crowds (and help) faster than you can speed-dial AAA! --Andy Mace (I'll be there in spirit, but not in person) *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jul 13 15:03:25 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 17:03:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] broke brakes Message-ID: <20070713170325.BPN76365@ms09.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Andy Mace wrote: > > Experience has shown that driving to VTR is one of the > > best ways to make something on your Triumph break. > But if you manage to make there regardless, it's likely one > of the best places to get it fixed. Yes, well, you see, there should be no cause-and-effect thing here that makes a VTR trip any different from any other trip. Statistically they should all be identical. The fact that VTR offers so much help obviously counterbalances the fact that things break on the way. It must work out that way. QED, the presence of so much good help is why they break. -- Jim Muller, trying not to break the laws of probability From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jul 13 15:05:46 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 17:05:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! Message-ID: <20070713170546.BPN76862@ms09.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Michael Marr wrote: > Not as good a punster as Jim Muller... Thanks for the compliment, but how did my name end up in a thread that started by talking about holy crap? -- Jim Muller wishing he was driving instead of typing From emanteno at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 16:27:08 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 22:27:08 +0000 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine Message-ID: <071320072227.24290.4697FC3C000C7E2600005EE22207020653970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Chuck Arnold" > Do not think Kas got 240+ HP with carbs like he did with PI [14:1 > compression, rebuild about every 4 hours of use?]. I thought I remembered him telling us he got 258 hp on Strombergs, when he was speaking at a VTR Convention a few years ago (Portland, OR). Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Jul 13 16:31:07 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 15:31:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Install Message-ID: <12F5BF1873464A439496035EFDE9CEAF@GeoPC> Previously I have had a tonneau w/o those gores or slits at the top of the dogleg -- that is probably why my tonneau ripped at the back end of the zipper after only 25 years of use. I have a replacement from TRF with the slit in it and have a question about how it attaches to the lift-the-dot peg that is up near the top of the quarter-rail capping. It appears that the 2 sides of the slit will want to overlap here... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3Tonneau1.JPG Obviously the LTD fastener goes on the the rearward section, down near the 'point', but it looks to me like the flap on the forward section will also present itself over the same peg... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3Tonneau2.JPG If I was designing it I would have a metal grommet in that under-flap that would go on the peg before the pointy rearward top flap snaps on, but I doubt it is anything so clever as that. Here is where the peg itself is on my car, hopefully this is the right spot: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3Tonneau3.JPG http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3Tonneau4.JPG Does the forward (underneath) flap just bunch under there or is there some trick I'm missing? Obviously the old tonneau is on the car, that was to support the new one for a trial fit & pictures. Thanks for any advice. Geo From jhassall at blacksburg.net Fri Jul 13 16:53:20 2007 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 18:53:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! In-Reply-To: <000b01c7c586$1955a040$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> References: <4696C281.9030005@blacksburg.net><001d01c7c54b$b6236320$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> <000b01c7c586$1955a040$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> Message-ID: <46980260.9090705@blacksburg.net> Kentech HomeTech wrote: > Being nice, but it is almost the same. My first reaction though, was holy > $hit. > That 777 cam is listed as max competition and must have an interesting lope > at idle (probably around 1200rpm!) > > Hey Jim, does this mean, you're now almost 95% done? Have to change your > signature. I would suggest "holy carp." Peter, you're right about the idle. It'll have a nice lopey (sp?) at about 1200, if memory serves from my D Prod days. OTOH, I don't remember what I had for breakfast... It comes on the cam at 3500 like a kick in the pants. "Completion" is being approached asymptotically - are LBCs ever "finished"? WRT changing the .sig, since engine will be in a high state of tune, maybe I could put "TR4 tuna"? -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA 64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 13 17:44:27 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 16:44:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Power steering in a TR7 ? Message-ID: <129701c7c5a7$c036dde0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Hello all, The query below came in through the local club's help desk, but I know very little about TR7s or mechanics in northern CA. If anyone can help Bob out, would you please email him directly at bobkrolick at earthlink.net ? Randall _____ From: Bob Krolick [mailto:bobkrolick at earthlink.net] Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 5:50 PM To: helpdesk at sctoa.org Subject: TR 7 Hello, An elderly gentelman I know has a 1980 TR 7 and is unable to drive his car because it doesn't have power steering. He lives in San Rafael, CA just north of San Francisco. Can you provide any information that might be useful with regard to having power steering put in his TR 7. Is it possible? Is there a shop you can recommend that might do the work or perhaps an individual? Is there an Owners Group in Northern CA? Any help you might provide would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Bob Krolick 4 Viscaino Way San Rafael, CA 94903 415-492-0273 CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From jhassall at blacksburg.net Fri Jul 13 18:47:36 2007 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 20:47:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! In-Reply-To: <001d01c7c54b$b6236320$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> References: <4696C281.9030005@blacksburg.net> <001d01c7c54b$b6236320$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> Message-ID: <46981D28.9080602@blacksburg.net> Kentech HomeTech wrote: > Congrats on the engine Jim. Sounds like it sounds like a beast with straight > pipes and a 777 cam - holy carp is this for the street?! Hey Peter, Good to hear from you again. Here's a short video my daughter took that night - it shows the header problem very clearly. I'm such a dork I also recorded the first session. The knocking sound you hear is the electric fuel pump. I haven't done anything on the traction bars yet, but will w/i the next couple of months, since the car should be on the road w/i the next 4-6 weeks, maybe sooner. Yahoo! How's your car coming? -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA 64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type video/avi which had a name of second run - glowing headers.AVI] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type audio/wav which had a name of TR4 first run 3 JUL 07.wav] From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jul 13 19:48:04 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 01:48:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] Cable lube. In-Reply-To: <20070713030433.EAHJ7864.aa03.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: At the parts store you can buy cable lube which is a liquid form of graphite. A good squirt in the cable housing will lube the entire length. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Need a brain boost? Recharge with a stimulating game. Play now! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=club_hotmailtextlink1 From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Jul 13 19:52:15 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 21:52:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] complete welding vs. spot welding & seam sealer? Message-ID: <006401c7c5b9$9e7d9380$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Is it really any better to completly weld in the the outside perimeter of the battery box (observing necessary cooling down periods to avoid the heat from warping things) vs. spot welding it's perimeter and then using some product like seam sealer to keep out the water. Thanks, Paul Dorsey0 TR3 From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Jul 13 19:58:27 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 21:58:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] battery liners w/ holes? Message-ID: <006d01c7c5ba$79e41c50$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Do battery box liners (from the big 3) have the drain hole? Thanks, Paul Dorsey From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 20:43:25 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 22:43:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 bow screws In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002401c7c5c0$c0b04a40$284d3b47@Scott> It is the same screw as sold for the door hinges (I just got a set). Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo & Kathleen Hahn Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 10:38 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 bow screws They're a lot easier to install if they have that pointy tip. Mine are 5/8" long -- that's the threaded portion and the pointy tip. That may be the same as the screws for the door hinges? Geo From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jul 13 20:51:42 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 20:51:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Install In-Reply-To: <12F5BF1873464A439496035EFDE9CEAF@GeoPC> Message-ID: <20070714025148.0014F1879CA@autox.team.net> Geo, Take a look at the pictues of this car for sale, there are a few close-up of the tonneau that may help to answer you question. http://classic-motors.ebizautos.com/shared/viewer.aspx?&iid=1665729&src=eBiz Autos&pid=14 Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 L(O) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo & Kathleen Hahn Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 4:31 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Install Previously I have had a tonneau w/o those gores or slits at the top of the dogleg -- that is probably why my tonneau ripped at the back end of the zipper after only 25 years of use. I have a replacement from TRF with the slit in it and have a question about how it attaches to the lift-the-dot peg that is up near the top of the quarter-rail capping. It appears that the 2 sides of the slit will want to overlap here... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3Tonneau1.JPG Obviously the LTD fastener goes on the the rearward section, down near the 'point', but it looks to me like the flap on the forward section will also present itself over the same peg... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3Tonneau2.JPG If I was designing it I would have a metal grommet in that under-flap that would go on the peg before the pointy rearward top flap snaps on, but I doubt it is anything so clever as that. Here is where the peg itself is on my car, hopefully this is the right spot: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3Tonneau3.JPG http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3Tonneau4.JPG Does the forward (underneath) flap just bunch under there or is there some trick I'm missing? Obviously the old tonneau is on the car, that was to support the new one for a trial fit & pictures. Thanks for any advice. Geo _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/898 - Release Date: 7/12/2007 4:08 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/898 - Release Date: 7/12/2007 4:08 PM From mathews at uga.edu Fri Jul 13 20:55:19 2007 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 22:55:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] complete welding vs. spot welding & seam sealer? In-Reply-To: <006401c7c5b9$9e7d9380$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <006401c7c5b9$9e7d9380$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20070714025629.8F6421879E1@autox.team.net> Paul, My GUESS is that it is better to weld the entire box in as it would add structural strength to the cowl. Doug At 09:52 PM 7/13/2007, you wrote: >Is it really any better to completly weld in the the outside perimeter of the >battery box (observing necessary cooling down periods to avoid the heat from >warping things) vs. spot welding it's perimeter and then using some product >like seam sealer to keep out the water. > >Thanks, Paul Dorsey0 TR3 >_______________________________________________ >mathews at uga.edu > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 21:23:08 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 23:23:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts Message-ID: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> Does anyone know of the part number for the clip on caged nuts that the TR3 headlamps screw into to hold the assembly to the nose, and who might still sell them? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From FordneyNJ at aol.com Fri Jul 13 21:44:41 2007 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 23:44:41 EDT Subject: [TR] re VTR Message-ID: Blake, Tha spider got a new water pump last month and is getting a clutch this weekend. Cutting it close, but see you there Rodney Ford TR4A IRS CTC60536l TR7 400612 ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 60TR3A at cox.net Fri Jul 13 21:46:45 2007 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John Wise) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 20:46:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Install In-Reply-To: <12F5BF1873464A439496035EFDE9CEAF@GeoPC> References: <12F5BF1873464A439496035EFDE9CEAF@GeoPC> Message-ID: Geo Here are 2 pictures one with my flap up & the other with the flap down. Hope this helps. John -- John A. Wise Glendale, AZ Email: 60TR3A at cox.net 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of DSC05468.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of DSC05467.JPG] From blambert at socal.rr.com Fri Jul 13 23:09:21 2007 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 22:09:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <000501c7c5d5$242e2ba0$6401a8c0@dennis12345> Scott, You might be looking for TRF part number CD24855, T23 RETAINER,NUT,HEAD LAMP, about 2 dollars each. Last year I spent about an hour making one out of some spring steel scavenged from a bracket of some sort. But then, about 6 months ago, I could swear I saw the retainers in a TRF web catalogue; I just can't find it at the moment. I remember thinking then that I had spent over an hour and some aggravation making an available 2-buck part that I thought was unavailable! You might give them a call. Dennis 59 TR3 Orange, CA -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+blambert=socal.rr.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+blambert=socal.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Suhring Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 8:23 PM To: Triumph Mail List Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts Does anyone know of the part number for the clip on caged nuts that the TR3 headlamps screw into to hold the assembly to the nose, and who might still sell them? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 _______________________________________________ blambert at socal.rr.com Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 13 22:36:10 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 21:36:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <20070714043609.LAFM19079.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Does anyone know of the part number for the clip on caged > nuts that the TR3 headlamps screw into to hold the assembly > to the nose, and who might still sell them? TIA No idea of the part number, but I found some nylon things at the local FLAPS that worked well for me. Randall From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 22:42:32 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 04:42:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] broke brakes Message-ID: <071420070442.28342.46985438000556FB00006EB622070209539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> I dodged the whole controversy by having the car break on the way HOME from VTR. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: > Andy Mace wrote: > > > Experience has shown that driving to VTR is one of the > > > best ways to make something on your Triumph break. > > > But if you manage to make there regardless, it's likely one > > of the best places to get it fixed. > > Yes, well, you see, there should be no cause-and-effect thing here that makes a > VTR trip any different from any other trip. Statistically they should all be > identical. The fact that VTR offers so much help obviously counterbalances the > fact that things break on the way. It must work out that way. QED, the > presence of so much good help is why they break. > -- > Jim Muller, trying not to break the laws of probability > _______________________________________________ > pethier at comcast.net > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 22:44:34 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 04:44:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! Message-ID: <071420070444.18443.469854B2000A168C0000480B22007637049D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: > Michael Marr wrote: > > Not as good a punster as Jim Muller... > > Thanks for the compliment, but how did my name end up in a thread that started > by talking about holy crap? Follow the bread crumbs, Jim. It started by talking about holy carp. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tom628 at verizon.net Fri Jul 13 22:48:14 2007 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 00:48:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cool moving Windshield Wipers References: <20070713145229.UASP12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <00d001c7c5d2$30886e40$2f01a8c0@Toms> Won't this leave a large triangular wet area in the center of the windshield? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 10:52 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Cool moving Windshield Wipers >> Is there anything wrong with leaving out this straight middle tube? > > Yes. The inner cable is flexible, and so will buckle in operation rather > than move the RH wiper. > > As already suggested, you need to fabricate the longer tube. > > Randall From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jul 13 23:01:52 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 23:01:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cool moving Windshield Wipers In-Reply-To: <00d001c7c5d2$30886e40$2f01a8c0@Toms> Message-ID: <20070714050156.C7008187A54@autox.team.net> You don't think he will acutally drive it in the rain? It's all about the effect! Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 L(O) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Note Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 10:48 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] Cool moving Windshield Wipers Won't this leave a large triangular wet area in the center of the windshield? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 10:52 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Cool moving Windshield Wipers >> Is there anything wrong with leaving out this straight middle tube? > > Yes. The inner cable is flexible, and so will buckle in operation rather > than move the RH wiper. > > As already suggested, you need to fabricate the longer tube. > > Randall _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/898 - Release Date: 7/12/2007 4:08 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/898 - Release Date: 7/12/2007 4:08 PM From triumphs at consolidated.net Fri Jul 13 20:02:58 2007 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano pda) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 22:02:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] broke brakes In-Reply-To: <20070713170325.BPN76365@ms09.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20070713170325.BPN76365@ms09.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <1905-SnapperMsg0544D065C2BE5ED6@[216.176.88.92]> Unfortunately no double flare lines avaabe locally. I'm her, sans tr3 ...... Original Message ....... On Fri, 13 Jul 2007 17:03:25 -0400 (EDT) wrote: >Andy Mace wrote: >> > Experience has shown that driving to VTR is one of the >> > best ways to make something on your Triumph break. > >> But if you manage to make there regardless, it's likely one >> of the best places to get it fixed. > >Yes, well, you see, there should be no cause-and-effect thing here that makes a VTR trip any different from any other trip. Statistically they should all be identical. The fact that VTR offers so much help obviously counterbalances the fact that things break on the way. It must work out that way. QED, the presence of so much good help is why they break. >-- >Jim Muller, trying not to break the laws of probability >_______________________________________________ >triumphs at consolidated.net > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >From pda sorry 'bout spelling & typo's :-) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jul 14 05:43:31 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 07:43:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] battery liners w/ holes? In-Reply-To: <006d01c7c5ba$79e41c50$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <006d01c7c5ba$79e41c50$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200707140743.31605.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 13 July 2007 09:58 pm, Paul Dorsey wrote: > Do battery box liners (from the big 3) have the drain hole? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey > _______________________________________________ Paul, The liner for my 3 does not have the hole. Got it from TRF. But I use a sealed battery so the drain hole is just for show. I even have installed the tube through the transmission cover. Why I am not sure since the car never sees rain if I can help it. Bob From aecalkins at gmail.com Sat Jul 14 05:51:16 2007 From: aecalkins at gmail.com (Tony Calkins) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 07:51:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] List serv going crazy Message-ID: <335cf97e0707140451h7b5f12eegaa36b132bb9945e7@mail.gmail.com> Getting several of these every day...seems server needs a vacation like the rest of us! Best - -- Tony Calkins 74 1/4 TR6 CF28229U From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Jul 14 06:41:06 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 08:41:06 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Here I come Message-ID: Bud, Look forward to seeing you again. I will be leaving Monday AM for Valley Forge from Cleveland. I may even run into Blake and the Detroit group since we have to follow the same route East. My TR250 is all set to go, I Think! I have been driving it all week, changed the plugs and put 130 miles on her and I have what I need: Positive Amps --- Oil Pressure --- Good Temp --- Fuel That's all I need, right? Of course those that know me will understand that the 250 will be towed to VTR. Why? I have to haul all this judging stuff: clipboards, forms, past scoresheets, master trophy's , Judging Skool materials and on and on. This stuff will fill the Durango TR tow vehicle for sure. BTW, still looking for Judges, especially those willing to judge Modified Cars. The Judging Skool will be Wednesday at 4:00 PM. So it would be greatly appreciated if any of you Listers are willing to help. See you guys on the Road to Valley Forge, Darrell VTR Chief Judge ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From kentech0822 at verizon.net Sat Jul 14 06:54:12 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 08:54:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! In-Reply-To: <46981D28.9080602@blacksburg.net> References: <4696C281.9030005@blacksburg.net><001d01c7c54b$b6236320$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> <46981D28.9080602@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <002501c7c616$13f3e680$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> I recognized that fuel pump sound right away. Glad to hear you kept the throttle steady during break-in, some much temptation to clear it's throat a few times. My car is just getting underway again. Cathy just finished all of her cancer treatments and is almost completely back to normal - and cured! I spent the spring rebuilding the front-end on her 3A which we autocrossed a couple of weekends ago - FTD vintage car (out of 2 - so I beat the other guy. Once I get the annex built on my barn I will start the 4A tub work and continue through the winter months so maybe this time next year I can seen my headers glow too. Nice job Jim! PeterK -----Original Message----- From: J.C. Hassall [mailto:jhassall at blacksburg.net] Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 8:48 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] '63 TR4: It lives! Kentech HomeTech wrote: > Congrats on the engine Jim. Sounds like it sounds like a beast with > straight pipes and a 777 cam - holy carp is this for the street?! Hey Peter, Good to hear from you again. Here's a short video my daughter took that night - it shows the header problem very clearly. I'm such a dork I also recorded the first session. The knocking sound you hear is the electric fuel pump. I haven't done anything on the traction bars yet, but will w/i the next couple of months, since the car should be on the road w/i the next 4-6 weeks, maybe sooner. Yahoo! How's your car coming? -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA 64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type video/avi which had a name of second run - glowing headers.AVI] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type audio/wav which had a name of TR4 first run 3 JUL 07.wav] From Chip19474 at aol.com Sat Jul 14 08:07:39 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 10:07:39 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Here I come Message-ID: In a message dated 7/14/2007 8:41:52 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: especially those willing to judge Modified Cars. Hey Darrell, Hope you got my volunteer email yesterday to be a judge......as I mentioned, I'm showing the TR6 in Modified Prepared but if you need judges for Modified Touring and there's no conflict of interest because I'm in Prepared, I'd be happy to do that class. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA USA '76 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Sat Jul 14 11:23:05 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 12:23:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> References: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <200707141723.l6EHNB1d363324@ns3.geneseo.net> I need some too and cannot find them. If you find a source, please share the info. At 10:23 PM 7/13/2007, you wrote: >Does anyone know of the part number for the clip on caged nuts that the TR3 >headlamps screw into to hold the assembly to the nose, and who might still >sell them? TIA > >Scott Suhring >Mechanicsburg, PA >'70 TR6 >'59 TR3 >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Jul 14 11:28:39 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 13:28:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Here I come References: Message-ID: <000601c7c63c$6ae8fd60$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> I'll meet Darwin Brown and Susan in their Stag in the morning in Jacksonville (FL) and should be at VTR Tuesday early afternoon. TR3A's all loaded and ready to go...had a nice run around town this morning, she's running great. Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sat Jul 14 12:02:18 2007 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 14:02:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> References: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <46990FAA.6050609@blacksburg.net> Scott Suhring wrote: > Does anyone know of the part number for the clip on caged nuts that the TR3 > headlamps screw into to hold the assembly to the nose, and who might still > sell them? TIA Are you talking about Moss # 326-555? That p/n is shown for the TR250/6, but also used on the TR4. Don't know about the TR3. It's the hickey which presses into the front valence and a screw threads thru the headlamp assy into it. The -4, -250 and -6 each use 3 per side. hth jim -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA 64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jul 14 12:06:50 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 12:06:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Here I come In-Reply-To: <000601c7c63c$6ae8fd60$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <20070714180655.1A3D5187A4A@autox.team.net> Bon voyage and drive safely! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of THOMAS FANSHER Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 11:29 AM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Here I come I'll meet Darwin Brown and Susan in their Stag in the morning in Jacksonville (FL) and should be at VTR Tuesday early afternoon. TR3A's all loaded and ready to go...had a nice run around town this morning, she's running great. Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.5/899 - Release Date: 7/13/2007 3:41 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.5/899 - Release Date: 7/13/2007 3:41 PM From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Jul 14 14:23:56 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 13:23:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <46990FAA.6050609@blacksburg.net> References: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> <46990FAA.6050609@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: TR3s differ from the TR4 in this respect. I was at Ace H'ware this a.m. and noticed they had a nice selection of caged nuts (the snap-in cages) though I didn't note how small they went. Pics of the two versions... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bucketnut%20tr3a.JPG http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bucketnut%20tr4.JPG Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "J.C. Hassall" > > Are you talking about Moss # 326-555? That p/n is shown for the TR250/6, > but also used on the TR4. Don't know about the TR3. From buik57389 at yahoo.com Sat Jul 14 14:56:33 2007 From: buik57389 at yahoo.com (karl sisson) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 13:56:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] List serv going crazy In-Reply-To: <335cf97e0707140451h7b5f12eegaa36b132bb9945e7@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <796443.5332.qm@web60221.mail.yahoo.com> Would you happen to know how I can remove my name from this list?...I've tried everything with no success. I enjoy the site but prefer british car forum. I'm getting way too many postings here. K. Sisson Tony Calkins wrote: Getting several of these every day...seems server needs a vacation like the rest of us! Best - -- Tony Calkins 74 1/4 TR6 CF28229U _______________________________________________ buik57389 at yahoo.com Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs --------------------------------- Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Jul 14 15:48:17 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 14:48:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] List serv going crazy In-Reply-To: <796443.5332.qm@web60221.mail.yahoo.com> References: <796443.5332.qm@web60221.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0EA98A0EA6FC429C84FE4EACD5E0BBD7@GeoPC> The trailer on this message (and every message you've received from the list) has a link to http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs If for some reason those instructions do not work then you will need to contact Mark B. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "karl sisson" To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 1:56 PM Subject: Re: [TR] List serv going crazy > Would you happen to know how I can remove my name from this list?... From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Sat Jul 14 18:16:22 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 16:16:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR 3 Disc Brake dust shield References: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott><46990FAA.6050609@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <00eb01c7c675$60841290$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Hi group, Does anyone have a left front disc brake dust shield for a TR3 that = they will sell. The dust shields come in at least two "flavors". I need = the one that is a full circle for the left front side. The other = "flavor" has the bottom cut off. I have two right hand dust shields and = no left hand dust shield (don't ask why!). So I can either trade you my = right for your left or buy your left outright. Thanks for any help. Mike Denman From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sat Jul 14 19:44:44 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 21:44:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <20070714043609.LAFM19079.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> References: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> <20070714043609.LAFM19079.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <001c01c7c681$b83dfee0$284d3b47@Scott> Randall: What is FLAPS? Could you snap them in the square openings and what was the threading for the screw? Thanks. Scott -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 12:36 AM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts > Does anyone know of the part number for the clip on caged > nuts that the TR3 headlamps screw into to hold the assembly > to the nose, and who might still sell them? TIA No idea of the part number, but I found some nylon things at the local FLAPS that worked well for me. Randall Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From dorpaul at negia.net Sat Jul 14 19:49:57 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 21:49:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Middle tube in wipers References: <2413.32646.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00b401c7c682$89573370$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Cosmo, I don't know what you mean by exactly by offset distance, but, at any rate, the Moss catalog says their is a difference between the wiper assembly of a TR3 & TR4. I have an extra TR3 wiper assembly, and so I measured the opposite setup myself remembering to keep the wipers 15" apart. And the middle tube can still be used even when I rotate one wheelbox 180 degrees. However, a clamp screw on each wheelbox will have to be loosened.. Since I don't mind scratches on my car, and since I have all of the gauges taken out of the car, these adjustments weren't all that hard. It will be several months before I get the car back togather, but, I think the 'opposite direction' wiper is now complete!(with middle tube installed). It just may be that my TR3 wipers will work like an old school bus's. I did notice a problem, that's not really associated to this 'opposite direction' setup. The problem is that the rubber gasket located just above the body panel but under the chrome bezel (on the rotating stem of the wiper and outside the car) covers quite a large oblong hole. This gasket tends to 'slightly fall into' these oblong body holes for the wipers. Is this gonna be a problem? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From jholmgren at advertising.com Sat Jul 14 19:51:54 2007 From: jholmgren at advertising.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 21:51:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <001c01c7c681$b83dfee0$284d3b47@Scott> References: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> <20070714043609.LAFM19079.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> <001c01c7c681$b83dfee0$284d3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A610267AE75CE@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Friendly Local Auto Parts Store. :) Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jholmgren=advertising.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jholmgren=advertising.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Suhring Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 9:45 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts Randall: What is FLAPS? Could you snap them in the square openings and what was the threading for the screw? Thanks. Scott -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 12:36 AM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts > Does anyone know of the part number for the clip on caged > nuts that the TR3 headlamps screw into to hold the assembly > to the nose, and who might still sell them? TIA No idea of the part number, but I found some nylon things at the local FLAPS that worked well for me. Randall Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _______________________________________________ jholmgren at advertising.com Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sat Jul 14 19:53:55 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 21:53:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <200707141723.l6EHNB1d363324@ns3.geneseo.net> References: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> <200707141723.l6EHNB1d363324@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <002301c7c683$006bd1f0$284d3b47@Scott> A club member has an extra set that I can get. He got them a few years back from TRF, and the part number is RFK901. It comes with the clip on cage, the nut, washer and the screw, 6 per set (3 on each side). Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sat Jul 14 19:57:26 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 21:57:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <46990FAA.6050609@blacksburg.net> References: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott> <46990FAA.6050609@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <002401c7c683$7e8a8090$284d3b47@Scott> That could be it, but not certain. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of J.C. Hassall Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 2:02 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts Scott Suhring wrote: > Does anyone know of the part number for the clip on caged nuts that the TR3 > headlamps screw into to hold the assembly to the nose, and who might still > sell them? TIA Are you talking about Moss # 326-555? That p/n is shown for the TR250/6, but also used on the TR4. Don't know about the TR3. It's the hickey which presses into the front valence and a screw threads thru the headlamp assy into it. The -4, -250 and -6 each use 3 per side. hth jim -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA 64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From triumphs at consolidated.net Sat Jul 14 19:12:51 2007 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano pda) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 21:12:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 3 Disc Brake dust shield In-Reply-To: <00eb01c7c675$60841290$210110ac@MIKESDELL> References: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott><46990FAA.6050609@blacksburg.net> <00eb01c7c675$60841290$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Message-ID: <1958-SnapperMsg0544D065C2BF3953@[216.176.88.200]> Take them off. Kas Kastner says they were the firt thing to go on the factory race card. Seriously, I have one set (cut to fit Toyota calipers, you are welcome to for the price of freight. ...... Original Message ....... On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 16:16:22 -0800 "Mike Denman" wrote: >Hi group, > Does anyone have a left front disc brake dust shield for a TR3 that = >they will sell. The dust shields come in at least two "flavors". I need = >the one that is a full circle for the left front side. The other = >"flavor" has the bottom cut off. I have two right hand dust shields and = >no left hand dust shield (don't ask why!). So I can either trade you my = >right for your left or buy your left outright. Thanks for any help. >Mike Denman >_______________________________________________ >triumphs at consolidated.net > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >From pda sorry 'bout spelling & typo's :-) From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sat Jul 14 20:39:21 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 22:39:21 EDT Subject: [TR] List serv going crazy Message-ID: The mailing software was recently changed, check the bottom of your latest e mails for instructions. ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sat Jul 14 20:43:39 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 22:43:39 EDT Subject: [TR] ping test Message-ID: ping ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Sat Jul 14 20:55:15 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 18:55:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] Rubber bushings References: <000101c7c5c6$4d6f3a40$284d3b47@Scott><46990FAA.6050609@blacksburg.net> <00eb01c7c675$60841290$210110ac@MIKESDELL> <1958-SnapperMsg0544D065C2BF3953@[216.176.88.200]> Message-ID: <011401c7c68b$93a1d980$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Hi group, A question if I may... Rubber bushings like those used on the upper fulcrum for the TR3 a-arms... the rubber bushings ride on a machined bare metal shaft (fulcrum). I ended up replacing the original metal fulcrum because over the years the metal under the rubber bushings was really eaten away by rust. So, with new fulcrums installed, I would like to avoid the problem of rust starting under the rubber bushings. Normally I would use some grease to hold the rust at bay but grease (at least general purpose grease) will cause or hasten the deterioration of rubber products. Any advice on what to use and what has worked for other members would be appreciated. Mike Denman From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jul 14 21:00:09 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 21:00:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] ping test In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070715030014.C98C81879DD@autox.team.net> Pong? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 8:44 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] ping test ping ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.5/899 - Release Date: 7/13/2007 3:41 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.5/899 - Release Date: 7/13/2007 3:41 PM From mark at bradakis.com Sat Jul 14 21:07:30 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 21:07:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] List serv going crazy In-Reply-To: <335cf97e0707140451h7b5f12eegaa36b132bb9945e7@mail.gmail.com> References: <335cf97e0707140451h7b5f12eegaa36b132bb9945e7@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <46998F72.5090904@bradakis.com> Tony Calkins wrote: >Getting several of these every day... > Uh, several of what? Email messages from the list that you joined? mjb. From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Jul 14 21:30:15 2007 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 23:30:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] ping test In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6fa72a770707142030k5fda8cb4i770dd8fe2e73e6d9@mail.gmail.com> got it On 7/14/07, ZinkZ10C at aol.com wrote: > > ping > > > ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL > at > http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour > _______________________________________________ > ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jul 14 23:32:28 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 22:32:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rubber bushings In-Reply-To: <011401c7c68b$93a1d980$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Message-ID: <20070715053228.RSRS12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Normally I would use some grease to hold the rust at bay but > grease (at least general purpose > grease) will cause or hasten the deterioration of rubber > products. Any advice on what to use and what has worked for > other members would be appreciated. Well, silicone grease won't rot the rubber. But, the rubber is not supposed to slide on the pin, and I suspect greasing the pin would allow it to slide. So likely the best solution is to just keep the rubber in good shape (by replacing it every couple of years, in my experience). The rubber itself will seal and protect the pin, IMO, it only starts to rust when the rubber is torn and allows air (water, salt, etc.) to get to the pin. I got tired of changing those darn rubber bushings every few years, and switched to Nylatron bushings sliding on replaceable stainless sleeves. Not original at all, but last much longer. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jul 14 23:43:17 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 22:43:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <001c01c7c681$b83dfee0$284d3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <20070715054316.SIQZ12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > What is FLAPS? Friendly Local Auto Parts Store ... Pep Boys as I recall, in the "Help!" section. > Could you snap them in the square openings > and what was the threading for the screw? Thanks. They didn't really snap in, just kind of pushed. The screw expands the nylon to lock it into place, kind of like a drywall anchor. They come unthreaded, so the sheet metal screw cuts it's own threads. Don't recall the screw size offhand, but #8 or maybe #10 sounds about right. Not sure offhand (and too tired to try to look it up), but something is telling me that all TR2-3B are not identical in this area. And I believe my TR3A has a replacement front apron on it (never had holes for the TRIUMPH letters), so it's possible other cars might be different. Randall From L1J1S at aol.com Sun Jul 15 06:59:04 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 08:59:04 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 alt. and belt Message-ID: hello, adjective, to switch from a generator to a alternator. can someone please give me a brand name and part number for a alternator and respective belt to be used on a tr3-a. will be using the pulley from the generator that is from a tr3. not to concern about the hookup procedure because i already have the info on that. larry schwartz ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Jul 15 07:47:40 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 09:47:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <20070715054316.SIQZ12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <001c01c7c681$b83dfee0$284d3b47@Scott> <20070715054316.SIQZ12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <000c01c7c6e6$b6e22480$284d3b47@Scott> Thanks Randall. Thank makes sense now. Scott -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 1:43 AM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts > What is FLAPS? Friendly Local Auto Parts Store ... Pep Boys as I recall, in the "Help!" section. > Could you snap them in the square openings > and what was the threading for the screw? Thanks. They didn't really snap in, just kind of pushed. The screw expands the nylon to lock it into place, kind of like a drywall anchor. They come unthreaded, so the sheet metal screw cuts it's own threads. Don't recall the screw size offhand, but #8 or maybe #10 sounds about right. Not sure offhand (and too tired to try to look it up), but something is telling me that all TR2-3B are not identical in this area. And I believe my TR3A has a replacement front apron on it (never had holes for the TRIUMPH letters), so it's possible other cars might be different. Randall Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From TBe749 at aol.com Sun Jul 15 08:06:08 2007 From: TBe749 at aol.com (TBe749 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 10:06:08 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Here I come Message-ID: Darrell Unfortunately, we are not going to make VTR again. I have been swamped at work with work. Which is a good thing. I also lost my Dad in May and have been trying to organize his estate, clean his house, etc. So, it's not going to happen. Just thought I would let you know. I wish I could be there and would help if so. Take care Tom PS Doubt if we will be at 6 Pack either due to our Brit show here date conflict ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From drsandner at earthlink.net Sun Jul 15 08:09:12 2007 From: drsandner at earthlink.net (J.RANDOLPH SANDNER) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 07:09:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] I-287 Message-ID: <1D63C16457AA482A865B940672E7EA3A@randyPC> listers, driving from NY to NC on saturday the 14th, passed a 'yellow tr6, /c a black roll bar heading north on I 287. any one on the list? really nice looking car! randy sandner 7405 tr6 hickory nc From dmb993 at earthlink.net Sun Jul 15 08:23:38 2007 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (David Brady) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 10:23:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] I-287 In-Reply-To: <1D63C16457AA482A865B940672E7EA3A@randyPC> References: <1D63C16457AA482A865B940672E7EA3A@randyPC> Message-ID: <469A2DEA.2070005@earthlink.net> Hi Randy, It wasn't me but I just moved to Asheville NC and wanted to no what sportscar clubs you belong to. Thanks, David Brady '68 TR250, CD8124L From jackandangie at tx.rr.com Sun Jul 15 09:25:08 2007 From: jackandangie at tx.rr.com (jackandangie at tx.rr.com) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 8:25:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] complete welding vs. spot welding & seam sealer? Message-ID: <18197100.1184513108556.JavaMail.root@web33> As I learned it, you tack weld all around the perimeter, and then did a complete weld ---- Paul Dorsey wrote: > Is it really any better to completly weld in the the outside perimeter of the > battery box (observing necessary cooling down periods to avoid the heat from > warping things) vs. spot welding it's perimeter and then using some product > like seam sealer to keep out the water. > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey0 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > jackandangie at comcast.net > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From one_second_zero at yahoo.com Sun Jul 15 11:40:49 2007 From: one_second_zero at yahoo.com (Greg) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 10:40:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6: starting the engine without the gearbox in the car? Message-ID: <664288.57743.qm@web50602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I currently have the transmission out but the flywheel and clutch are installed. Can anyone think of a reason that you cannot bolt the starter onto the engine backplate with some shims and start the engine with the transmission out of the car? I want to test the rear oil seal I installed to make sure its not leaking before I install the gearbox. thanks, Greg H 1976 TR6 --------------------------------- Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Jul 15 11:58:44 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 13:58:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiper holes have enlarged Message-ID: <00f101c7c709$ca99d220$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I'm sure others have had this problem, and if they found a satisfactory solution then I'd like to hear from them: It seems that the body holes for the wipers have become larger over the years, and this even allows part of the rubber gasket to fall into it! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From portermd at zianet.com Sun Jul 15 13:18:14 2007 From: portermd at zianet.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 13:18:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] broke brakes In-Reply-To: <11745-SnapperMsg0544D065C2BCA31F@[216.176.88.66]> References: <11745-SnapperMsg0544D065C2BCA31F@[216.176.88.66]> Message-ID: <469A72F6.4060609@zianet.com> Ken Gano pda wrote: >TR3 was loaded and rolling East towards PVGP / TRF / VTR. 15 miles out and >lost brakes. See everyone there, but in a Toyota. :-( >>From pda sorry 'bout spelling & typo's :-) >_______________________________________________ > > Umm, methinks something is awry due to hidden damage to the rears, or in the repair of the rear end mountings. Check there first.... Cheers, Ken. -- Michael D. Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From adcronin at ameritech.net Sun Jul 15 13:39:23 2007 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 12:39:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] wiper holes have enlarged In-Reply-To: <00f101c7c709$ca99d220$190260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <450843.27020.qm@web81310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Sounds to me like you will need to determin proper hole diameter and mig weld in a patch plate. Lots of stress at this wiper mounting plate. Dan Paul Dorsey wrote: I'm sure others have had this problem, and if they found a satisfactory solution then I'd like to hear from them: It seems that the body holes for the wipers have become larger over the years, and this even allows part of the rubber gasket to fall into it! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 _______________________________________________ adcronin at ameritech.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 From dtennant at shaw.ca Sun Jul 15 13:59:51 2007 From: dtennant at shaw.ca (Donald Tennant) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 12:59:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6: starting the engine without the gearbox in the car? In-Reply-To: <664288.57743.qm@web50602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <664288.57743.qm@web50602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <469A7CB7.4010309@shaw.ca> It's probably less work to remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with and electric drill. You will need to fabricate a rod to fit the oil pump shaft. Still easier and much safer. Donald most of a '58 TR 3 Greg wrote: > I currently have the transmission out but the flywheel and clutch are > installed. Can anyone think of a reason that you cannot bolt the > starter onto the engine backplate with some shims and start the engine with > the transmission out of the car? I want to test the rear oil seal I > installed to make sure its not leaking before I install the gearbox. > > thanks, Greg H > 1976 TR6 > > > --------------------------------- > Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. > _______________________________________________ > dtennant at shaw.ca > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jul 15 16:39:42 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 16:39:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] FW: TR3 Seat Belt Anchor Positions Message-ID: <20070715223947.045AC187A41@autox.team.net> I am considering adding seat belts to my TR3 and wondering where the best and strongest anchor points are. Is the floor or side of the tunnel better? Do I need to weld something off the frame member? Not belts for competition but simply for use as a daily driver. Thx, Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 L(O) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.6/902 - Release Date: 7/15/2007 2:21 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.6/902 - Release Date: 7/15/2007 2:21 PM From brianjone5 at mac.com Sun Jul 15 17:10:47 2007 From: brianjone5 at mac.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 19:10:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Question for Mark Message-ID: <518FF0B2-2896-45C8-9DA9-2D116531DE69@mac.com> Hi Mark, Will this new arrangement still feed messages into the / an archive? Can we increase the Digest size, and decrease its frequency? I appreciate everything that you do for us, just wondering. Thanks, Brian From 60TR3A at cox.net Sun Jul 15 17:13:28 2007 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 16:13:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: TR3 Seat Belt Anchor Positions In-Reply-To: <20070715223947.045AC187A41@autox.team.net> References: <20070715223947.045AC187A41@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I cannot swear to anything other than it is where some previous owner put them, but mine are in respective corner of each seat well. But it would seam to be a good structural place as well. Given the angular and reinforced corners it would be a good place. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jul 15 17:58:09 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 16:58:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6: starting the engine without the gearbox in the car? In-Reply-To: <664288.57743.qm@web50602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20070715235810.KKTG19079.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > I currently have the transmission out but the flywheel and > clutch are installed. Can anyone think of a reason that you > cannot bolt the starter onto the engine backplate with some > shims and start the engine with > the transmission out of the car? Should work fine, just be sure the engine is adequately supported; even if it decides to backfire. Randall From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sun Jul 15 18:07:04 2007 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 17:07:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] When to change rubber bushings Message-ID: <691892.81840.qm@web51606.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi list! Since Mike D. brought up the topic of rubber bushings & Randall Y. replied, "So likely the best solution is to just keep the rubber in good shape (by replacing it every couple of years, in my experience)". My question to the list is: Can anyone place a length of time, on the average, of how many years they should be changed? OR When is it advisable to change these rubber bushings? Yes I know oil will deteriorate the rubber so if they look 'mushy' or are cracking, that these are good indications. But other than looks, What other signs should be noted? TIA, -Cosmo Kramer --------------------------------- Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! From L1J1S at aol.com Sun Jul 15 18:09:42 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 20:09:42 EDT Subject: [TR] When to change rubber bushings Message-ID: mushy, cracking and noise. larry ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jul 15 18:36:20 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 17:36:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] When to change rubber bushings In-Reply-To: <691892.81840.qm@web51606.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20070716003621.JQSB12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Yes I know oil will deteriorate the rubber so if they look > 'mushy' or are cracking, that these are good indications. But > other than looks, What other signs should be noted? On my daily driver TR3A, I could hear the clunks as metal hit metal when the bushings were failing. But maybe current bushings are made of better stuff; certainly the original ones were. Randall From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Jul 15 20:33:49 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 02:33:49 +0000 Subject: [TR] pong test In-Reply-To: Message-ID: pong Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Need a brain boost? Recharge with a stimulating game. Play now! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=club_hotmailtextlink1 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Jul 15 20:46:40 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 19:46:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] When to change rubber bushings In-Reply-To: <20070716003621.JQSB12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070716003621.JQSB12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <75D4E8DF374F4A4CB1F24682C5C9446B@GeoPC> The bushings on my TR4 are likely original, which would make them 43 years old. Still just fine... too bad we seem to have lost the formula for that batch of rubber. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" > But maybe current bushings are made of better stuff; certainly the > original > ones were. From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Sun Jul 15 20:50:02 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 18:50:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] Front suspension References: <20070715053228.RSRS12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <018401c7c754$02c8e8d0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Hi group, I have a couple of items to contribute to the list (at last). The front suspension of my wife's TR3 was completely worn out with every single component showing signs of severe wear and poor maintenance by the previous owners. The first problem was the front left lower suspension fulcrum. Both of the bushings were rusted onto the fulcrum and the threaded portion of one end of the fulcrum was broken off. One of the previously owners had managed to drill and tap the broken end of the fulcrum to accept a smaller bolt with a large washer. Clever and it must have been hard to do but not the safest idea in the world. The hole was also drilled quite a bit off center. So, the question I posed to the list a couple of weeks ago was "how hard is it to replace the lower fulcrum (which is welded into place) with the body on the car?". I didn't get an answer from the list but I can now say that it can be done but it certainly isn't a picnic. I spend an entire morning making some temporary brackets that were bolted to the frame that would allow me to position the new fulcrum in exactly the same place as the old one. Of course, if the old fulcrum has been pushed out of its original position by an accident etc. then the new fulcrum will also be in the "wrong position" by the same amount using this approach. However, the brackets proved to be invaluable. The original factory holes through which the fulcrum passes are oversize (probably to allow adjustment by the factory welders to compensate for dimensional tolerances in the frame). So the original holes do not aid in the final positioning of the fulcrum. Both brackets (one on each end of the fulcrum) must be cut away to get the fulcrum into place. The brackets are fairly simple so I made new ones instead of trying to save the old ones by grinding away all the welds etc. The whole process took me almost three days but the new fulcrum is now in place and all the suspension components on that side seem to line up correctly. The final verdict will come, of course, when I have the front end aligned. The second "solution" involves the age old problem of rusted on bushings. I spent 4 hours getting one rusted-on bushing off the bad lower fulcrum. This was, of course, before I decided to replace the entire fulcrum. Over the years I have tried all types of "solutions" for this problem of rusted-on bushings and none of them have worked very well. Today I thought of a new solution. First I tried out the new solution on the bad fulcrum that I had removed from the car to see if it would work. I certainly didn't want to make things worse and the new solution sounds fairly drastic at first. Using my new method I had the rusted-on bushing off in less that five minutes and I didn't even get dirty! So what is the magic solution you ask? Well, I would still spray the rusty bushing with WD-40 or PB blaster or your favorite penetrating oil solution and leave it over night. Then take an appropriately sized nut (in my case a 3/4" inch nut drilled out to 19/32") and drill it out to fit over the bushing. Tack weld the nut to the bushing in 4 places. Don't go crazy with the welder. It doesn't require a lot of weld and you don't want the weld to penetrate deep enough to hit the fulcrum shaft. You also need to keep the flats of the nut clear of weld. Once the nut is welded to the bushing take an impact wrench and socket and remove the bushing. I was able to get my bushing off easily with the lowest setting on the impact wrench. It doesn't take much to break the bushing loose. I think the "big secret" is the impact wrench. The impact wrench is what makes the difference. I hit upon the idea after reading an article in the Triumph archives about using a pipe wrench and a lot of heat to remove the rusted on bushing. The pipe wrench idea got me thinking about how to apply rotational force to the bushing. Then I thought about how hard it is to get a generator pulley nut or alternator pulley nut off with a wrench and how easy the nuts come off with an impact wrench. This solution really works. Of course, you need enough room to get to the rusted on bushing with an impact wrench but it is worth a little extra effort to move things out of the way to allow the use of an impact wrench. Comments? Mike Denman From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Mon Jul 16 03:22:41 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 04:22:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front suspension In-Reply-To: <018401c7c754$02c8e8d0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> References: <20070715053228.RSRS12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> <018401c7c754$02c8e8d0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Message-ID: <200707160922.l6G9MpCs140084@ns3.geneseo.net> At 09:50 PM 7/15/2007, you wrote: >Both of the >bushings were rusted onto the fulcrum and the threaded portion of one end of >the fulcrum was broken off. ..............snip Thanks for sharing this with us! There are a couple of great ideas in your writeup that I will use on other things. Would you mind it if I forwarded your message to the big Triumphs list and the FOT list? uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jul 16 05:32:44 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 07:32:44 EDT Subject: [TR] bearing shells Message-ID: I could probably look this up, but, does anyone know if the bearing surface in rods/main shells and cam bearings for TR3A contain ferrous metal? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From kentech0822 at verizon.net Mon Jul 16 06:16:23 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 08:16:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front suspension In-Reply-To: <018401c7c754$02c8e8d0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> References: <20070715053228.RSRS12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> <018401c7c754$02c8e8d0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Message-ID: <001301c7c7a3$205bc3f0$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> A trick to remove the inner fulcrum sleeves from the fulcrum that worked for me was to use a carbide burr on the sleeve to make a couple of flats on the sleeve to fit a wrench. You can't grip the round sleeves with vice-grips otherwise because they are hardened. PB Blaster overnight first as you suggested then apply heat from a torch up into the end of the sleeves while rotating the sleeves back and forth with the wrench. Wear leather gloves, those babies get hot! PeterK From kentech0822 at verizon.net Mon Jul 16 06:21:22 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 08:21:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: TR3 Seat Belt Anchor Positions In-Reply-To: References: <20070715223947.045AC187A41@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001401c7c7a3$d2c597f0$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> I made up a couple of 4x4" 1/8" steel backing plates to go beneath the floor for the seatbelt mounting. Here's a 1962 Standard Triumph memo/template on mounting points for the TR3: http://mysite.verizon.net/kentech0822/triumph/tr3_seatbelt.pdf From spamiam at comcast.net Mon Jul 16 07:02:06 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 09:02:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] When to change rubber bushings Message-ID: <000f01c7c7a9$83612250$6502a8c0@p4server> >Subject: Re: [TR] When to change rubber bushings >The bushings on my TR4 are likely original, which would make them 43 years >old. Still just fine... too bad we seem to have lost the formula for that >batch of rubber. > >Geo It does constantly surprise me that we seem to have inferior "rubber" parts these days. Maybe even the OEM parts are not so great either. Just yesterday I was in the local Pep Boys and a guy was looking at some sort of rubber plug. He was on a cell phone commenting to someone about how crappy the rubber was. He said something like "These #$%^& parts made in India. The rubber lasts a few weeks" I assume it is a combo of cost and that the old parts were made with environmentally unfriendly processes. To tell the truth, I would GLADLY pay more to have the assurance that the "rubber" will have the longest lifetime reasonably possible. -Tony From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Mon Jul 16 08:02:34 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 06:02:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Front suspension References: <20070715053228.RSRS12750.mta9.adelphia.net@randall><018401c7c754$02c8e8d0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> <200707160922.l6G9MpCs140084@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <01b901c7c7b1$f6355e60$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Not a problem... use as you see fit. That is the wonderful thing about the list... the ability to share ideas. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack W. Drews" To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 1:22 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Front suspension > At 09:50 PM 7/15/2007, you wrote: >>Both of the >>bushings were rusted onto the fulcrum and the threaded portion of one end >>of >>the fulcrum was broken off. > > > ..............snip > > > Thanks for sharing this with us! There are a couple of great ideas in > your writeup that I will use on other things. > > Would you mind it if I forwarded your message to the big Triumphs > list and the FOT list? > > > uncle jack > > > > ------------------------------------------------ > No Virus Found In This Message > Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net > _______________________________________________ > mikedenman at sbcglobal.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From smithw1 at optonline.net Mon Jul 16 08:50:04 2007 From: smithw1 at optonline.net (William L. Smith) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 10:50:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR-7 Steering Column Question Message-ID: <0JLA00JI017K0KT0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> The grommet/bushing where the steering column passes through the firewall on my TR-7 has disintegrated and needs replacement. Several questions: 1. Is this grommet made of a hard material similar to the nylon bushings used on the TR-6 gas pedal shaft (I think the TR-6 bushings are made of hard nylon), or is it made of a softer material? 2. Does anyone have suggestions of an easy way how this bushing can be replaced without removing the entire steering column? 3. BTW, one of the gas pedal shaft bushings on my TR-6 has also failed again. I seem to recall hearing a number of years ago about a softer bushing that is easier to install. Does anyone have any information on it? Thanks, Bill Smith '72 TR-6/'80TR-7 From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Mon Jul 16 09:17:21 2007 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 11:17:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A O/D fine tuning Message-ID: <469b8c01.fa.2393.15586@cogeco.ca> I broke the bracket holding the overdrive solenoid when re-installing the engine/gearbox, I installed a new one after the engine/GB were (more hassle then actually installing the engine) and the O/D still works! However, it doesnt work every time. The only pattern Ive found so far is that it engages every time when the gearbox is cool/cold, but if Ive been driving for a few miles with O/D and disengage it because of traffic, it likely wont catch when I reengage it. It seems to only take a few minutes to fix itself, as I had to pull over for a cellphone call and a 2 minute call was enough to make it happy, however driving without the O/D for a while doesnt satisfy the gods of De Normanville nearly as well. The solenoid seems to activate every time Ive tested it in the driveway and the fluid level is fine, so Im guessing the little arm needs some fine adjustment, Ive lined up the arm on the opposite side of the o/d housing with that little hole using a screw (when solenoid is engaged) so its fairly close, Im thinking its only a tiny adjustment thats required. My question is: is that a tiny adjustment up or a tiny adjustment down? ;) The reason Im asking is its a pain to jack the car, crawl under and make the adjustment, then drive around until its warm only to have to crawl under again if Ive gone the wrong way. I thought this gang would help improve my odds from 50/50 Thanks, Art. From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Mon Jul 16 09:21:12 2007 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 11:21:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts Message-ID: <469b8ce8.61.6ef6.5843@cogeco.ca> I tried every auto parts and industrial fastener place in town and had no luck. I eventually used plastic square nuts from a body shop that are meant to screw door trim into the door. Even then we had to sift through quite a few to find the 6 I needed. >Does anyone know of the part number for the clip on caged nuts that the TR3 >headlamps screw into to hold the assembly to the nose, and who might still >sell them? TIA From roadwarriordave at hotmail.com Mon Jul 16 09:35:39 2007 From: roadwarriordave at hotmail.com (Dave Murphy) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 11:35:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Chip, Apart from the exhaust note, did the Moss supercharged TR-6 engine iteself sound different???? (I'd hate to have to listen to that loud supercharger wine that one hears even at idle from a lot of street rods with the big blowers mounted through the hoods. I'd like my engine to sound un-blown at idle and sound unblown at cruising speeds, but to just accelerate better.) -Dave Murphy >One thing that appears to be evident >with the supercharger is that the engine note in the exhaust isn't as >"TR6" like >as stock or modified TR6's....it sounds more "modern" - don't know how >else >to explain it! _________________________________________________________________ http://newlivehotmail.com From JHMDDS at aol.com Mon Jul 16 10:16:33 2007 From: JHMDDS at aol.com (JHMDDS at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 12:16:33 EDT Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine Message-ID: Dave, I know you didn't ask me specifically so please delete this if I've insinuated myself into your conversation with Chip. I have a supercharged Tr6. The exhaust note is not affected by the supercharger at all. There is no whine at idle and none when cruising unless I get on the throttle. At that point there is a loud whine that sounds like the cops are chasing me. I looked for years at different ways to improve performance. Over the years I tried head porting and polishing, higher compression, larger pistons, a free flow exhaust and triple Weber carbs. None of these mods came close to giving me what I hoped to get. Then came the supercharger, EFI and electronic ignition. I now have 148hp(about 6lbs of boost) at the rear wheels which is somewhere near 185 at the motor. While still not as fast as most modern cars, my 6 feels like it is on steroids rather than Quaaludes. I hope to increase the boost to about 10lbs in the future. Regards, Jamie Maddox ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Jul 16 10:49:22 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 12:49:22 EDT Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine Message-ID: In a message dated 7/16/2007 11:36:14 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, roadwarriordave at hotmail.com writes: Apart from the exhaust note, did the Moss supercharged TR-6 engine iteself sound different???? Dave, I never drove the car - just heard it idle at a recent car show so I can't tell you how the motor sounds under real driving conditions. If you'd like to pursue the question, the supercharger installation was done by Ragtops & Roadsters from Perkasie, PA. I think we (Delaware Valley Triumphs) just added a tech session at the VTR National (starting tomorrow) on supercharging your TR250/6. The contact from Ragtops to get all the scoop on this particular installation is: Dave Hutchison at _dvtdave at comcast.net_ (mailto:dvtdave at comcast.net) Good luck, Chip Krout ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From mrm at clking.com Mon Jul 16 11:15:27 2007 From: mrm at clking.com (Mitch R. Meisler) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 13:15:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <30E72F324648024B956BC3B3C1CF9B24F85496@clking01exc02.clkingw2k.local> If you'd like first-hand feedback contact my buddy Len at len at pegasusshoes.com . He's got a supercharged tr250 that he's owned a few years now Mitch Meisler AOL IM = MEISLERCLKA E-MAIL = mrm at clking.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chip19474 at aol.com Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 12:49 PM To: roadwarriordave at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; tr at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In a message dated 7/16/2007 11:36:14 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, roadwarriordave at hotmail.com writes: Apart from the exhaust note, did the Moss supercharged TR-6 engine iteself sound different???? Dave, I never drove the car - just heard it idle at a recent car show so I can't tell you how the motor sounds under real driving conditions. If you'd like to pursue the question, the supercharger installation was done by Ragtops & Roadsters from Perkasie, PA. I think we (Delaware Valley Triumphs) just added a tech session at the VTR National (starting tomorrow) on supercharging your TR250/6. The contact from Ragtops to get all the scoop on this particular installation is: Dave Hutchison at _dvtdave at comcast.net_ (mailto:dvtdave at comcast.net) Good luck, Chip Krout ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ mrm at clking.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________ From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Jul 16 12:22:01 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 14:22:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] MY MIG WIRE SPEED IS 10 TIMES TOO FAST? Message-ID: <001901c7c7d6$35e35c50$c50260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> All this time, I've been thinking my disability was my welding problem, but,... According to http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/calculator.htm my mig welder ought to be unraveling mig wire at 2.2 meters/minute. This figure is taking into account my setup and material to be welded. However, my mig welder has wire speeds on a dial graduation that ranges from '0-8'. Somewhat weird, but my welder dispenses wire even when this dial is set to '0', and it does so at 62 ft/minute (or 19.5 meters/minute). WHAT?? IT CALLS FOR A WIRE SPEED OF 2.2 METERS/MIN AND MY WELDER HAS A 19.5 METERS/MIN? SOMEBODY TELL ME I'M WRONG! (OR IS THE CHART WRONG?) Thanks, Paul Dorsey From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Jul 16 13:04:20 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 15:04:20 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Install Message-ID: In a message dated 7/13/2007 8:51:50 PM Mountain Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: Take a look at the pictues of this car for sale, there are a few close-up of the tonneau that may help to answer you question. http://classic-motors.ebizautos.com/shared/viewer.aspx?&iid=1665729&src=eBiz Autos&pid=14 Looks like neither is snapped.....I guess that's one solution. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From hdrider570 at peoplepc.com Mon Jul 16 13:22:10 2007 From: hdrider570 at peoplepc.com (hdrider570 at peoplepc.com) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 12:22:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Front suspension Message-ID: <001f01c7c7de$b40ac3e0$55b05545@DFKQ4L31> I have used a nut splitter succesfully quite a few times now. I place it as far onto the sleve as I can, tighten till it starts to split the sleeve and then use the tool as a lever to tist the now slightly larger diameter sleeve off. It has never left a mark on the underlying pin and works very quickly. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From tedtsimx at bright.net Mon Jul 16 14:12:34 2007 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 16:12:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR-7 Steering Column Question References: <0JLA00JI017K0KT0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <469BD132.8050308@bright.net> Bill, we have urethane steering column bushings for the TR7. Ted William L. Smith wrote: >The grommet/bushing where the steering column passes through the firewall on >my TR-7 has disintegrated and needs replacement. Several questions: > > > >1. Is this grommet made of a hard material similar to the nylon >bushings used on the TR-6 gas pedal shaft (I think the TR-6 bushings are >made of hard nylon), or is it made of a softer material? >2. Does anyone have suggestions of an easy way how this bushing can be >replaced without removing the entire steering column? >3. BTW, one of the gas pedal shaft bushings on my TR-6 has also failed >again. I seem to recall hearing a number of years ago about a softer >bushing that is easier to install. Does anyone have any information on it? > > > >Thanks, > >Bill Smith > >'72 TR-6/'80TR-7 >_______________________________________________ >tedtsimx at bright.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From wdaehler at wi.rr.com Mon Jul 16 17:34:21 2007 From: wdaehler at wi.rr.com (Will Daehler) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 18:34:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slipping Clutch: Problem Solved, back on the road. Message-ID: <000201c7c801$d653b100$6901a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Thanks to the Listers that helped me through my slipping clutch problem on my TR4. The clutch was getting worse and worse, to the point where the car was getting too slow and sluggish to drive. I ordered parts a new clutch kit from TRF, which included the throw out bearing, the clutch pressure plate and the clutch disk. AP Driveline components, by the way, excellent quality. By jacking up the car a foot I was able to get at some of the nuts and stuff from below. I had plenty of reference material, like the Haynes and the Bentley, and a general idea of what to do. I did have the flywheel resurfaced for $34 at a place called Car Quest, might be a national chain. I knew I was in the right place when I got inside, and there were four men behind the counter, each manning his own cash register, and the shortest line was two deep. Busy place, and the guy didn't blink an eye. I picked it up the next morning. Getting the flywheel back on was not easy, I used a combination of both feet, both hands and two by fours sitting on a jack to take the weight. Eventually got the bolts started. Tightening them pulled the flywheel the rest of the way on. Mounting the new clutch pressure plate and disk took just ten minutes with the help of the clutch alignment tool. My buddy Mike helped me wrestle the tranny back in. I made a tool to help. Should sell it on E-Bay now that I'm done with it. I bored a hole in a six inch long 2 X 4. I put this short block of wood on the hydraulic jack. With the drain plug of the tranny sitting in the hole of the wood block, this was a pretty close to the center of gravity, and was able to raise and lower it to line up with the engine. The last inch and half took a while, but all of a sudden, whoosh it slid into place. Thirty nuts and bolts later, I was ready for a test drive. The first shift was in the garage, into first. I squealed the tires! Left a little patch of black tire mark on the concrete. So the slipping clutch problem was solved. Now my new problem: Every time I shift, the car lurches forward, and the glove box door flips open! Will in Wisconsin 63 TR4 Powder Blue **************************************************************************** ************ Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************** ************ From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Jul 16 17:44:34 2007 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 19:44:34 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 Slipping Clutch: Problem Solved, back on the road. Message-ID: Flippently, I suggest masking tape and bungee cords so the glove box door stays shut. To stop the car lurching forwards, I suggest selecting reverse gear. Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com) TR3A TS22930 LO '65 Volvo PV544 Sport '91 Mustang Convertible '51 Chev. 3-Ton Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Green Industry professionals) and the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Jul 16 18:13:36 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 20:13:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slipping Clutch: Problem Solved, back on the road. In-Reply-To: <000201c7c801$d653b100$6901a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> References: <000201c7c801$d653b100$6901a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> Message-ID: <200707162013.36846.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 16 July 2007 07:34 pm, Will Daehler wrote: > Thanks to the Listers that helped me through my slipping clutch problem on > my TR4. The clutch was getting worse and worse, to the point where the car > was getting too slow and sluggish to drive. > > I ordered parts a new clutch kit from TRF, which included the throw out > bearing, the clutch pressure plate and the clutch disk. AP Driveline > components, by the way, excellent quality. > > By jacking up the car a foot I was able to get at some of the nuts and > stuff from below. I had plenty of reference material, like the Haynes and > the Bentley, and a general idea of what to do. > > I did have the flywheel resurfaced for $34 at a place called Car Quest, > might be a national chain. I knew I was in the right place when I got > inside, and there were four men behind the counter, each manning his own > cash register, and the shortest line was two deep. Busy place, and the > guy didn't blink an eye. I picked it up the next morning. > > Getting the flywheel back on was not easy, I used a combination of both > feet, both hands and two by fours sitting on a jack to take the weight. > Eventually got the bolts started. Tightening them pulled the flywheel the > rest of the way on. > > Mounting the new clutch pressure plate and disk took just ten minutes with > the help of the clutch alignment tool. > > My buddy Mike helped me wrestle the tranny back in. I made a tool to help. > Should sell it on E-Bay now that I'm done with it. I bored a hole in a six > inch long 2 X 4. I put this short block of wood on the hydraulic jack. > With the drain plug of the tranny sitting in the hole of the wood block, > this was a pretty close to the center of gravity, and was able to raise and > lower it to line up with the engine. > > The last inch and half took a while, but all of a sudden, whoosh it slid > into place. Thirty nuts and bolts later, I was ready for a test drive. > > The first shift was in the garage, into first. I squealed the tires! Left > a little patch of black tire mark on the concrete. So the slipping clutch > problem was solved. > > Now my new problem: Every time I shift, the car lurches forward, and the > glove box door flips open! > > > > Will in Wisconsin > > 63 TR4 Powder Blue > > > > > > Will, Great news on the clutch fix. But I have a real question about the glove box door. I am guessing your glove box is the early metal painted version. I too have the same glove box and it closes and opens but could have a bit tighter fit. I noticed that on the catch part of the box there is a little hole where the locking mechanism attaches. There is a part listed as 613863 as "Buffer, Cubby box lid". Is this the part that would make the door fit more snug? Thanks, Bob with another 63 TR4 but the Cubby box stays closed so far. From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Jul 16 19:22:23 2007 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 21:22:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slipping Clutch: Problem Solved, back on the road. In-Reply-To: <200707162013.36846.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <000201c7c801$d653b100$6901a8c0@willprkvsq1cz9> <200707162013.36846.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <6fa72a770707161822h4f2edef8yfe9c556eb318c921@mail.gmail.com> I thought I was the only one with a cubby door that falls down...... Chris 63 TR4 54 TR2 From triumphs at consolidated.net Mon Jul 16 19:29:48 2007 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (GANO KEN ATTORNEY) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 20:29:48 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] broke brakes Message-ID: <20070716202948.HHJ83301@mailstore02.consolidated.net> Yeah, it was probably pinched when the axle came loose. I picked up a new hose at TRF and can have it back on the road in just a few minutes, but made this trip in the Toyota. I also bought a brand new aluminum radiator from TRF. Big investment, but I am convinced it will be the ultimate fix. more later. kg From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jul 16 20:43:43 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 22:43:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR...here we come! Message-ID: <000001c7c81c$4c840b30$210110ac@bobspc> We're off tomorrow morning around 10 for the 200 mile drive to Valley Forge. I'll be in the TR6 and Jeanne will be driving my brand new bright blue Mazda3 chase car. She needs her own car to go shopping.....the Valley Forge Mall looks HUGE! I look forward to seeing old friends, meeting new ones and wishing others were here too. I hope to get lots of pictures of List members and their cars to post on my site. Safe to trip to all VTR attendees. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.6/902 - Release Date: 7/15/2007 2:21 PM From patton at suscom-maine.net Mon Jul 16 22:15:37 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 00:15:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi Dave, I also have a supercharged fuel injected TR6. It dynos at 168HP at the rear wheels making it very close to 200HP at the flywheel. Really scoots and is tons of fun. The engine is an original TR6 that I've rebuilt paying attention to details. The cam is from Integral and designed for supercharging, compression is 7.75, heads are ported and polished, stock rockers, intake and all the goodies were all built in my home shop. Exhaust is mandrel bent 2.5" stainless to a Dynomax muffler and it uses a ported stock TR6 twin pipe exhaust manifold. Engine management computer is a TEC3. If there is anything you want to know try my web site http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/superengine.htm or drop an email. There are a couple of rough video clips on the site that were done while tuning with a stock exhaust, no intercooler, etc. You asked about loud. I think the exhaust system is loud but others, including my wife, say it sounds great. Maybe it's just on the edge of acceptable but I do let off when near a police car. The blower came from a Mercedes C230 coupe and has an electric clutch like an A/C compressor. A dash mounted switch turns it, and the BIG noise, on and off. You can really hear the howl of the blower and it's blow off valves and a definite barking exhaust note when you stand on it. With the switch off it pretty much drives like a completely stock 6. By the way Jamie Maddox who replied earlier has a sweet supercharged TR6 you can find links to at: http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/schrgr.htm I do have a video from the dyno session with sound if you'd care to see it. The file is really large and needs to be uploaded to my site. I'll post a note once it's up. Rick Patton 75 TR6sci http://sidedrafttbi.com/ > In a message dated 7/16/2007 11:36:14 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > roadwarriordave at hotmail.com writes: > > Apart from the exhaust note, did the Moss supercharged TR-6 > engine iteself > sound different???? > > > Dave, > > I never drove the car - just heard it idle at a recent car show > so I can't > tell you how the motor sounds under real driving conditions. snip From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Mon Jul 16 23:36:29 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 06:36:29 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A Message-ID: <826629.33322.qm@web27410.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hi List, I know this kind of problem has been discussed at length before but as it wasn't one of mine I never took much notice. The engine seems to be fine up to around 3000 rpm after which I can feel the hesitation which remains or maybe gets worse the higher the revs. I dont think it is shortage of fuel as it is too predictable so I assume it is connected with timing or an electrical problem. Does anyone on the the list have some kind of check list to go through otherwise any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chris Buckley --------------------------------- Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Tryit now. From jbd at dotnet.com Tue Jul 17 05:12:24 2007 From: jbd at dotnet.com (Jack DeWolf) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 06:12:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Wetness and starting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: >1974 TR6 with SU carbs - otherwise stock. If the motor compartment >is seriously wet, i.e. engine hosed off after degreasing, engaging >the starter produces a whine or buzz from an electrical >component above the passenger footwell until the whole thing dries >out (about 45 minutes or so) at which time the solenoid works >normally again and all is well. When in 'whining mode" there is no >click or indication that the solenoid is working. The sound only >occurs when the key is in starter motor activation position. Any ideas as to: a) which component, relay or area's wetness causes this? b) what is whining and why? c) since it appears that the heavy positive cable goes directly from the battery to the starter, where is the solenoid even located? Thanks in advance Jack From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Jul 17 05:44:42 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 07:44:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts References: <469b8ce8.61.6ef6.5843@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <006701c7c867$ddc0b850$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> List, I bought a box off 100 a quarter of a century ago from "The House of a Million Screws", The Service Supply Company in Indianapolis, IN. They are caged like the originals ans snap right in the original square hole. Thread is 8-32. I used brass screws to avoid the tin worm. If the person that was in need and started this thread will contact me off list, I will send him a set. Ed Woods From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Tue Jul 17 09:25:33 2007 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 08:25:33 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A Message-ID: <23320002.1184685933668.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Check the low tension wire from the coil to the distributor (tends to break at the push-on connectors), the wiring internal to the distributor (from this connector to the condensor), and replace the condensor. Cliff -----Original Message----- >From: Chris Buckley >Sent: Jul 16, 2007 10:36 PM >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A > >Hi List, > I know this kind of problem has been discussed at length before but as it wasn't one of mine I never took much notice. > The engine seems to be fine up to around 3000 rpm after which I can feel the hesitation which remains or maybe gets worse the higher the revs. > I dont think it is shortage of fuel as it is too predictable so I assume it is connected with timing or an electrical problem. > Does anyone on the the list have some kind of check list to go through otherwise any ideas would be greatly appreciated. > Thanks, > Chris Buckley > > > >--------------------------------- > Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Tryit now. >_______________________________________________ >cliff_hansen at earthlink.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From KingR44916 at aol.com Tue Jul 17 09:41:32 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 11:41:32 EDT Subject: [TR] tappets Message-ID: adjusted the valves and still alot of tapping how to quiet them and will roller rockers do the trick ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org Tue Jul 17 09:52:26 2007 From: tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org (Terry Geiger) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 10:52:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] tappets References: Message-ID: <000801c7c88a$792aab30$041e14ac@aitinc.local> Roller rockers are quieter but a certain amount of tappet noise is to be expected from a TR engine, especially when compared to a modern vehicle. TR engines are a solid tappet design, whereas most modern vehicles that use tappets utilize some form of hydraulic dampening to eliminate the noise and the need for frequent valve adjustments. Terry Geiger '74 Triumph TR6 | '63 Triumph Herald | '70 MGBGT | '84 Mercedes 300D Diesel http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/ ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 10:41 AM Subject: [TR] tappets > adjusted the valves and still alot of tapping how to quiet them and will > roller rockers do the trick From mark at nashvilletn.org Tue Jul 17 10:01:12 2007 From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 11:01:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] tappets References: Message-ID: <005c01c7c88b$b339fdc0$8500a8c0@CT> I always worry if I don't hear them which means they are too tight. A cast alloy valve cover will quiet them a little. Mark Nashville http://www.ArrestMeRed.com adjusted the valves and still alot of tapping how to quiet them and will roller rockers do the trick From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Tue Jul 17 10:10:58 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 11:10:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] tappets In-Reply-To: <000801c7c88a$792aab30$041e14ac@aitinc.local> References: <000801c7c88a$792aab30$041e14ac@aitinc.local> Message-ID: <200707171611.l6HGB8Dh506053@ns3.geneseo.net> Often what happens on older engines is that the rocker arms wear just where they contact the valve stem. That means that when you use the feeler gauge, it is bridging across the groove in the rocker and your clearance ends up greater than you think it is. You can get around this by buying a cheap feeler gauge and snipping the blade you want to use down the middle to make it half as wide. At 10:52 AM 7/17/2007, you wrote: >Roller rockers are quieter but a certain amount of tappet noise is to be >expected from a TR engine, especially when compared to a modern vehicle. > >TR engines are a solid tappet design, whereas most modern vehicles that use >tappets utilize some form of hydraulic dampening to eliminate the noise and >the need for frequent valve adjustments. > >Terry Geiger >'74 Triumph TR6 | '63 Triumph Herald | '70 MGBGT | '84 Mercedes 300D Diesel >http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/ > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 10:41 AM >Subject: [TR] tappets > > > > adjusted the valves and still alot of tapping how to quiet them and will > > roller rockers do the trick >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Jul 17 10:14:31 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 12:14:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] tappets References: <005c01c7c88b$b339fdc0$8500a8c0@CT> Message-ID: <001001c7c88d$8f36ddb0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Or just wait a few years. When your hearing begins to fail, you'll no longer hear them! Ed Woods '60 TR3 with an almost silent engine. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark" To: Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 12:01 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tappets >I always worry if I don't hear them which means they are too tight. A cast > alloy valve cover will quiet them a little. > > Mark > Nashville > http://www.ArrestMeRed.com > > > > adjusted the valves and still alot of tapping how to quiet them and will > roller rockers do the trick From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Jul 17 10:20:48 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 12:20:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] tappets References: <000801c7c88a$792aab30$041e14ac@aitinc.local> <200707171611.l6HGB8Dh506053@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <001601c7c88e$6fd24170$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> This outfit will return a TR rocker assembly as new. NFI of course. Ed Woods Rocker Arm Specialist 19841 Hirsch Court Anderson, CA 96007 Tel (530) 378-1075 1(800)747-2767 fax (530) 378-1177 e-mail rocker at c-zone.net From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Tue Jul 17 10:33:22 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 18:33:22 +0200 Subject: [TR] tappets References: <005c01c7c88b$b339fdc0$8500a8c0@CT> <001001c7c88d$8f36ddb0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <002e01c7c890$316ad800$0500a8c0@Study> Amen to that! Sometimes I can only tell my engine is running by referring to the rev counter! David Brister 1967 TR4A. (40 next month.) -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 4728 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From one_second_zero at yahoo.com Tue Jul 17 10:37:48 2007 From: one_second_zero at yahoo.com (Greg) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 09:37:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine Message-ID: <487291.57338.qm@web50602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi Rick, did you swap out the diff to something more robust or are you running the TR6 OEM differential? Regards, Greg H Denton, TX Message: 11 Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 00:15:37 -0400 From: "Rick" Subject: Re: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>, , , "Triumph Sports car discussion" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Dave, I also have a supercharged fuel injected TR6. It dynos at 168HP at the rear wheels making it very close to 200HP at the flywheel. Really scoots and is tons of fun. The engine is an original TR6 --------------------------------- Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 17 12:23:19 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 11:23:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Wetness and starting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <161101c7c89f$8ce5bc90$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > >1974 TR6 with SU carbs - otherwise stock. If the motor compartment > >is seriously wet, i.e. engine hosed off after degreasing, engaging > >the starter produces a whine or buzz from an electrical > >component above the passenger footwell > a) which component, relay or area's wetness causes this? > b) what is whining and why? Not sure where they are located, but a 74 TR6 should have a relay for the starter, controlled by the seat belt module. I believe the seat belt module incorporates a buzzer. My guess is that you're either hearing the module buzz, or possibly it is causing the starter relay to buzz. Personally, my suggestion would be to eliminate the module's control of the starter relay. Find the white/red and white/orange wires where they go into the module, cut them away from the module & splice them together (so the key powers the relay directly). If you want, you can also remove the module entirely. > c) since it appears that the heavy positive cable goes directly from > the battery to the starter, where is the solenoid even located? The solenoid itself is attached directly to the starter, it's that bulge where the battery cable connects. In addition to supplying power to the starter motor (through a very short jumper between the solenoid and the motor proper), it also moves the pinion gear into engagement with the flywheel ring gear. It's possible the solenoid itself is the problem, but not likely I think. You can check by connecting a test lamp from the small solenoid terminal with the white/red wire on it to ground, and see if it lights when you try to start the engine wet. If it lights brightly, then the solenoid is at fault. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of TR6 74 wiring diagram from Dan Masters.pdf] From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Tue Jul 17 12:44:30 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 20:44:30 +0200 Subject: [TR] Reversing light switch. Message-ID: <005e01c7c8a2$82d012c0$0500a8c0@Study> Having just removed the gearbox and driveshaft cover for the first time in over 20 years, I thought it would be a good time to wire my reversing light to the appropriate switch. (Something I overlooked long ago. There was the remains of a reversing light under the rear bumper then but I removed it and fitted two of those beehive clear glass lights to the boot lid, controlled by an on/off switch under the dash..Non standard but at least you can see behind you.). So I assume there must have been an automatic switch on the gearbox. Now I can't find any reference in any of my books to a reversing light switch although it is shown as an optional extra on the wiring diagrams. My gearbox just has the two overdrive enabling switches on the top, all wired according to the book. Can anyone remember if there is or ever was such a switch fitted to a TR4A. If so could it be retro fitted? Thanks, David Brister 1967 TR4A. (CTC 77785 O) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 17 12:46:38 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 11:46:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <161d01c7c8a2$ced9dcf0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > The blower came from a > Mercedes C230 coupe and has an electric clutch like an A/C > compressor. Where does the air flow when the blower isn't spinning ? Some sort of check valve arrangement ? Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From dbh at hamengr.com Tue Jul 17 12:51:18 2007 From: dbh at hamengr.com (Dave B. Hammond) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 11:51:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Reversing light switch. References: <005e01c7c8a2$82d012c0$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <018801c7c8a3$7667d850$6401a8c0@DBH> Yes, you can retrofit. If the transmission top cover is not tapped for it, you will have to remove it and tap it. Switches available from the usuals...same as the overdrive switches. David B. Hammond, 64 TR4 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 17 13:24:54 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 12:24:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Reversing light switch. In-Reply-To: <005e01c7c8a2$82d012c0$0500a8c0@Study> References: <005e01c7c8a2$82d012c0$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <162101c7c8a8$27c34cc0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Can anyone remember if there is or ever was such a switch > fitted to a TR4A. I believe it was fitted to some cars, possibly even required in certain markets (Belgium ?). > If so could it be retro fitted? Sounds like someone has replaced your gearbox (or at least the top cover) in the past. As mentioned, you will need to either tap your top cover for the switch, or find one already tapped. If memory serves, the reverse light switch on a TR4A would be in the top of the cover, over the reverse shift rail. Should be a boss there where the switch goes. The tap required is an odd metric thread though, not in the usual sets, so you'll also need to buy a tap for it. Later cars had the reverse light switch on the side of the top cover, but I think they may have had a modified reverse shift rail as well (with a hole for the switch plunger to drop into). FWIW, a TR250-6 top cover should work, if you can find one with the A-type switches on it. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Jul 17 13:33:14 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 12:33:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] tappets In-Reply-To: <005c01c7c88b$b339fdc0$8500a8c0@CT> References: <005c01c7c88b$b339fdc0$8500a8c0@CT> Message-ID: <9E4381A83DC2428080254FFBE7663B81@GeoPC> I agree, that tapping is just one part of beautiful Triumph music. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark" To: Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 9:01 AM Subject: Re: [TR] tappets >I always worry if I don't hear them... From dkspence at telus.net Tue Jul 17 13:35:17 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 13:35:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5430F8A1-C250-4C30-86CB-B5438815503E@telus.net> Check the resistance on your high tension leads. Also the condenser. On 17-Jul-07, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > From: Chris Buckley > Date: July 16, 2007 11:36:29 PM MDT (CA) > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A > Reply-To: Triumph Sports car discussion > > > Hi List, > I know this kind of problem has been discussed at length before > but as it wasn't one of mine I never took much notice. > The engine seems to be fine up to around 3000 rpm after which I > can feel the hesitation which remains or maybe gets worse the > higher the revs. > I dont think it is shortage of fuel as it is too predictable so I > assume it is connected with timing or an electrical problem. > Does anyone on the the list have some kind of check list to go > through otherwise any ideas would be greatly appreciated. > Thanks, > Chris Buckley From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Jul 17 13:39:53 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 12:39:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Reversing light switch. In-Reply-To: <005e01c7c8a2$82d012c0$0500a8c0@Study> References: <005e01c7c8a2$82d012c0$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <5F34B904FD4548AA9531545A00702650@GeoPC> Here's a pic of a typical installation... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/ReverseSwitch.jpg The reverse switch is, of course, the one closest to the bottom of the pic. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Brister" To: Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 11:44 AM Subject: [TR] Reversing light switch. > Now I can't find any reference in any of my books to a reversing light > switch although it is shown as an optional extra on the wiring diagrams. > My > gearbox just has the two overdrive enabling switches on the top, all wired > according to the book. From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Jul 17 14:50:00 2007 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 15:50:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Balancing a Fan Message-ID: <000001c7c8b4$0b4c5990$280210ac@idea.com> Listers, Just added the fan assembly to the engine of my TR4A. I pruchased a new fan mounting kit which included all the asundry hardware, including the balancing plate. In the workshop manual it talks about a 1/16" hole that you use to line everything up. Only problem is none of my fan pieces, have a guide hole!! How do you perform this balance without a hole? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A (CTC 63569LO) http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/ From patton at suscom-maine.net Tue Jul 17 18:25:35 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 20:25:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: <487291.57338.qm@web50602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Greg, Just a month ago the differential was replaced with a limited slip from a Nissan Z car. It was a used but low mileage diff with a ratio of 4.10. The installation hardware came from Richard Good and was nicely made. The change has been dramatic with the car being much quieter. Not only were the old diff mounts warn but the gears also sang. All in all a great upgrade that I'd recommend when increasing power. Perhaps over the winter I can get a Corvair axle hub set ready. Rick -----Original Message----- From: Greg [mailto:one_second_zero at yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 12:38 PM To: Triumph List; patton at suscom-maine.net Subject: Re: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine Hi Rick, did you swap out the diff to something more robust or are you running the TR6 OEM differential? Regards, Greg H From patton at suscom-maine.net Tue Jul 17 19:49:54 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 21:49:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: <161d01c7c8a2$ced9dcf0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: Hi Randall, A very good question! If you check out the supercharger's plumbing it differs from most because the throttle plate is located at the intake manifold instead of the traditional intake boss of the supercharger. A young fellow who once worked for me convinced me to try this S/C approach. No lag what-so-ever as the supercharger keeps the intercooler pressurized at all times to some degree and cracking the throttle plate charges the intake instantly. Non supercharged air flow is done this way; Just ahead of the throttle plate is a large bypass valve controlled by intake manifold vacuum. Without the supercharger running there is vacuum in the manifold and the bypass valve is held open. Attached to the bypass is 1" tubing used to draw fresh air from the air cleaner. At higher rpms the supercharger windmills along supplying a little extra air via the intercooler. The dyno testing without the supercharger revealed that this hose needs to be at least 1.25". That will be a someday project as the car actually runs pretty well without the supercharger. The biggest problem encountered with this set up was when suddenly closing the throttle at high rpms with the supercharger running, the bypass just couldn't dump enough air to keep from blowing all the tubing apart. That was a very frustrating period of development! There was also concern that the throttle plate would bend and bind. Addition of a very large dump valve near the supercharger solved that issue. Another someday project is to incorporate a Hobbs vacuum switch and an electronic timer that would engage the supercharger like a passing gear. What do you think? I probably should mention that because the supercharger can be engaged by the flip of a switch it doesn't get used all that often. You might use it passing or when that red Mustang pulls up along side but in reality it only is used a few times a week and for short pulls at that. Rick http://sidedrafttbi.com/ > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 2:47 PM > To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' > Subject: Re: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine > > > > The blower came from a > > Mercedes C230 coupe and has an electric clutch like an A/C > > compressor. > > Where does the air flow when the blower isn't spinning ? Some > sort of check > valve arrangement ? > > Randall From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Tue Jul 17 19:56:11 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 21:56:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <006701c7c867$ddc0b850$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <469b8ce8.61.6ef6.5843@cogeco.ca> <006701c7c867$ddc0b850$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <002a01c7c8de$d1010b70$284d3b47@Scott> That would be great, Ed. Scott Suhring 1852 Hunter Drive Mechanicsburg, PA 17050 Let me know what I can send you in return. TA Scott -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 7:45 AM To: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca; Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts List, I bought a box off 100 a quarter of a century ago from "The House of a Million Screws", The Service Supply Company in Indianapolis, IN. They are caged like the originals ans snap right in the original square hole. Thread is 8-32. I used brass screws to avoid the tin worm. If the person that was in need and started this thread will contact me off list, I will send him a set. Ed Woods This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jmitch at snet.net Tue Jul 17 20:27:50 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 22:27:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Balancing the Carbs Message-ID: <469D7AA6.4050705@snet.net> When balancing the carburettors, Bentley says to loosen the interconnection, and balance at 850 RPM and re tighten. Then it says to bring the engine to 1500rpm and re balance with the idle adjusting screws. Do I loosen the interconnection again when I do this? It then says to balance with the choke on. Once again, do I loosen the connector? Seems like you'd just be messing up the balance from 850 and 1500 rpm. Thanks for any help, John Mitchell 76 TR6 From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jul 17 21:56:44 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 21:56:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] tappets In-Reply-To: <9E4381A83DC2428080254FFBE7663B81@GeoPC> Message-ID: <20070718035645.92438187A6F@autox.team.net> You think your TR is loud, go out and get a vintage TR motorcycle, the correct valve noice is deafening. Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 L(O) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo & Kathleen Hahn Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 1:33 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] tappets I agree, that tapping is just one part of beautiful Triumph music. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark" To: Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 9:01 AM Subject: Re: [TR] tappets >I always worry if I don't hear them... _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.8/904 - Release Date: 7/16/2007 5:42 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.8/906 - Release Date: 7/17/2007 6:30 PM From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Mon Jul 16 08:14:47 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 09:14:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Front suspension Message-ID: <200707161415.l6GEEv0X189080@ns3.geneseo.net> >I am forwarding a message that appeared on a TR6 list. I twas >written by Mike Denman and I'm forwarding it with his permission. It >has a couple of good ideas in it that can be used for other things >on most Triumphs. > >Hi group, > I have a couple of items to contribute to the list (at last). The front >suspension of my wife's TR3 was completely worn out with every single >component showing signs of severe wear and poor maintenance by the previous >owners. > The first problem was the front left lower suspension fulcrum. > Both of the >bushings were rusted onto the fulcrum and the threaded portion of one end of >the fulcrum was broken off. One of the previously owners had managed to drill >and tap the broken end of the fulcrum to accept a smaller bolt with a large >washer. Clever and it must have been hard to do but not the safest idea in the >world. The hole was also drilled quite a bit off center. So, the question I >posed to the list a couple of weeks ago was "how hard is it to replace the >lower fulcrum (which is welded into place) with the body on the car?". I >didn't get an answer from the list but I can now say that it can be done but >it certainly isn't a picnic. I spend an entire morning making some temporary >brackets that were bolted to the frame that would allow me to position the new >fulcrum in exactly the same place as the old one. Of course, if the old >fulcrum has been pushed out of its original position by an accident etc. then >the new fulcrum will also be in the "wrong position" by the same amount using >this approach. However, the brackets proved to be invaluable. The original >factory holes through which the fulcrum passes are oversize (probably to allow >adjustment by the factory welders to compensate for dimensional tolerances in >the frame). So the original holes do not aid in the final positioning of the >fulcrum. Both brackets (one on each end of the fulcrum) must be cut away to >get the fulcrum into place. The brackets are fairly simple so I made new ones >instead of trying to save the old ones by grinding away all the welds etc. The >whole process took me almost three days but the new fulcrum is now in place >and all the suspension components on that side seem to line up correctly. The >final verdict will come, of course, when I have the front end aligned. > The second "solution" involves the age old problem of rusted on bushings. >I spent 4 hours getting one rusted-on bushing off the bad lower fulcrum. This >was, of course, before I decided to replace the entire fulcrum. Over the years >I have tried all types of "solutions" for this problem of rusted-on bushings >and none of them have worked very well. Today I thought of a new solution. >First I tried out the new solution on the bad fulcrum that I had removed from >the car to see if it would work. I certainly didn't want to make things worse >and the new solution sounds fairly drastic at first. Using my new method I had >the rusted-on bushing off in less that five minutes and I didn't even get >dirty! So what is the magic solution you ask? Well, I would still spray the >rusty bushing with WD-40 or PB blaster or your favorite penetrating oil >solution and leave it over night. Then take an appropriately sized nut (in my >case a 3/4" inch nut drilled out to 19/32") and drill it out to fit over the >bushing. Tack weld the nut to the bushing in 4 places. Don't go crazy with the >welder. It doesn't require a lot of weld and you don't want the weld to >penetrate deep enough to hit the fulcrum shaft. You also need to keep the >flats of the nut clear of weld. Once the nut is welded to the bushing take an >impact wrench and socket and remove the bushing. I was able to get my bushing >off easily with the lowest setting on the impact wrench. It doesn't take much >to break the bushing loose. I think the "big secret" is the impact wrench. The >impact wrench is what makes the difference. I hit upon the idea after reading >an article in the Triumph archives about using a pipe wrench and a lot of heat >to remove the rusted on bushing. The pipe wrench idea got me thinking about >how to apply rotational force to the bushing. Then I thought about how hard it >is to get a generator pulley nut or alternator pulley nut off with a wrench >and how easy the nuts come off with an impact wrench. This solution really >works. Of course, you need enough room to get to the rusted on bushing with an >impact wrench but it is worth a little extra effort to move things out of the >way to allow the use of an impact wrench. Comments? >Mike Denman >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From one_second_zero at yahoo.com Wed Jul 18 14:26:50 2007 From: one_second_zero at yahoo.com (Greg) Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 13:26:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6: replacement seatbelts from TRF Message-ID: <930757.80418.qm@web50601.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Does anyone have any experience installing the aftermarket inertia reel 3-point seat belts sold by the Roadster Factory? I bought a pair and am curious if they will install using the original mounting points or if I'm going to have to drill and install new mounting points. As a side question, is there anyone that will restore and reweb the OEM inertia reel seatbelts for the TR6? Including rebuilding the inertia mechanism? All things being equal, I'd rather use the original seatbelts. Thanks, Greg H Denton, TX --------------------------------- Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online. From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Wed Jul 18 14:41:41 2007 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 16:41:41 EDT Subject: [TR] Front Suspension Message-ID: The easiest thing that I have found to remove the sleeves from the front suspension is an impact chisel and ear plugs. You can do both sides in 5 minutes. Use the fork shaped chisel and angle it in the direction you want the sleeve to go. Just be sure to use the ear plugs since it is REALLY LOUD with your head under the fender!! Sam and Carol Clark Green Country Triumphs TS45355L O CC82030U O Cell: 918-625-6798 ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From mark at bradakis.com Wed Jul 18 15:47:57 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 15:47:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] Drat. Message-ID: <469E8A8D.5070705@bradakis.com> I wish things had worked out for me to be at VTR. So it goes. Maybe Triumphest this fall. mjb. From rgperry at earthlink.net Wed Jul 18 16:14:48 2007 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 17:14:48 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] TR6: replacement seatbelts from TRF Message-ID: <8386806.1184796888201.JavaMail.root@elwamui-milano.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Greg, The Kangol seatbelts can be rebuilt by Ssnake-Oyl in Tyler, Texas. http://ssnake-oyl.com/ Regards, Greg Perry From bdischer at blakedischer.com Wed Jul 18 22:06:41 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 00:06:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Convention Blog Message-ID: <031c01c7c9ba$38408140$d764a8c0@bjdtr3a> I tried posting this when the list was having some troubles and didn't see it come back. Please forgive me if this is a double post. Richard Truett, a writer for the Automotive News and a Triumph enthusiast, is writing daily entries for a blog about the VTR convention going on now in Valley Forge. If you care to take a look and maybe post a comment or two, it's at: http://www.vtr.org/NATCblog Cheers, Blake Discher Vintage Triumph Register From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Thu Jul 19 00:50:08 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 08:50:08 +0200 Subject: [TR] Reversing light switch. References: <005e01c7c8a2$82d012c0$0500a8c0@Study> <469E909E.4090407@blacksburg.net> <469E997D.1070004@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <000601c7c9d1$0c4980c0$0500a8c0@Study> Grateful thanks to all who have helped with my reversing light query. It seems odd that my car was fitted with a reversing light ex factory and yet there is no switch on the gearbox. Perhaps Randall is right and someone has put a replacement lid on the box although nothing in the early history I have indicates that. I am inclined to stick to the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" philosophy which has served my gearbox well for so many years. This list certainly provides entertainment and information in generous measure. Best wishes to all, David Brister. 1967 TR4A. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 4732 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From flashtr3 at cox.net Thu Jul 19 00:59:56 2007 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 23:59:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine References: Message-ID: <005a01c7c9d2$6a532ee0$9f54fd18@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Hi Rick, Would mind giving some additional info on your diff. swap to Z car? I am thinking of redoing my '71 TR6 rear-end with it's weak design. Has anyone converted to Datsun rear brake disc? what year? cost to convert? weight change? do you use same of TR "do-nuts" for mounts? How do get hold of Richard Good? thanks for any input ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick" To: "Greg" ; "Triumph List" Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 5:25 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine > Hi Greg, > > Just a month ago the differential was replaced with a limited slip from a > Nissan Z car. It was a used but low mileage diff with a ratio of 4.10. The > installation hardware came from Richard Good and was nicely made. The > change > has been dramatic with the car being much quieter. Not only were the old > diff mounts warn but the gears also sang. All in all a great upgrade that > I'd recommend when increasing power. Perhaps over the winter I can get a > Corvair axle hub set ready. > > Rick > -----Original Message----- > From: Greg [mailto:one_second_zero at yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 12:38 PM > To: Triumph List; patton at suscom-maine.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine > > > Hi Rick, did you swap out the diff to something more robust or are you > running the TR6 OEM differential? > > Regards, Greg H > _______________________________________________ > flashtr3 at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jerryvv at adelphia.net Thu Jul 19 04:04:14 2007 From: jerryvv at adelphia.net (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 06:04:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Reversing light switch. References: <005e01c7c8a2$82d012c0$0500a8c0@Study><469E909E.4090407@blacksburg.net> <469E997D.1070004@blacksburg.net> <000601c7c9d1$0c4980c0$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <000c01c7c9ec$2948f320$6401a8c0@toshibauser> David, Don't be so discouraged. It's an easy thing to do to your top cover. I did it to mine a few years ago. Just center the switch, which is the same as an OD Isolator switch, in the boss that's already on the top cover. Drill and tap it and you're done. Wiring needs to be installed of course but you have most of that in place. You do need to disassemble the top cover but again that's easily done. The top cover mechanisms are all in place as this same top cover was used on sedans which did have back up lights. Or go to a bone yard and get a top cover for a TR 6 which already has a system installed. It should bolt up to your transmission just like the TR4A cover. JVV 1966 TR4A with back up light. ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Brister" To: Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 2:50 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Reversing light switch. > Grateful thanks to all who have helped with my reversing light query. It > seems odd that my car was fitted with a reversing light ex factory and yet > there is no switch on the gearbox. Perhaps Randall is right and someone has > put a replacement lid on the box although nothing in the early history I > have indicates that. > > I am inclined to stick to the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" philosophy > which has served my gearbox well for so many years. > > This list certainly provides entertainment and information in generous > measure. > > Best wishes to all, > > David Brister. > 1967 TR4A. > > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. > It has removed 4732 spam emails to date. > Paying users do not have this message in their emails. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > _______________________________________________ > jerryvv at adelphia.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.9/907 - Release Date: 7/18/2007 3:30 PM From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Thu Jul 19 07:39:51 2007 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (R. Ashford Little II) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:39:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: <005a01c7c9d2$6a532ee0$9f54fd18@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <005a01c7c9d2$6a532ee0$9f54fd18@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <003f01c7ca0a$48849280$d98db780$@com> Richard Good can be found at www.goodparts.com. R. Ashford Little II '70 TR6 6-Pack Membership Secretary From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Thu Jul 19 08:55:55 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 07:55:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] The TR6 snap thing Message-ID: <000101c7ca14$e8bc26f0$c52a144c@computer> Has anyone come up with a good solution to the black plastic male snaps breaking especially in cold weather but even in warm weather? I avoided matching them up with metal females but they seem to break with the same regularity when mated up with plastic females. I thought a black metal male would be ideal but so far have not been able to locate such a thing. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From pboldtrix at juno.com Thu Jul 19 09:39:54 2007 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 15:39:54 GMT Subject: [TR] The TR6 snap thing Message-ID: <20070719.113954.6630.0@webmail32.lax.untd.com> -- "jim hearn" wrote: Has anyone come up with a good solution to the black plastic male snaps breaking especially in cold weather but even in warm weather? I avoided matching them up with metal females but they seem to break with the same regularity when mated up with plastic females. I thought a black metal male would be ideal but so far have not been able to locate such a thing. Try going to a good upholstery shop for boats and autos....they should have metal ones, or know where to get them..... ________________________________________________________________________ Save hundreds of dollars a year with Juno Internet access. Plans start as low as $9.95 a month. Visit Juno today! http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://ads.addynamix.com/click/2-2130421-170 From triumph at lincsat.com Thu Jul 19 09:51:13 2007 From: triumph at lincsat.com (Mike Graham) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:51:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] The TR6 snap thing In-Reply-To: <20070719.113954.6630.0@webmail32.lax.untd.com> References: <20070719.113954.6630.0@webmail32.lax.untd.com> Message-ID: <200707191549.l6JFnnRc014245@smtp1.xplornet.com> I bought some at a local fabric shop ... they worked just fine. Cheers, Mike At 11:39 AM 19/07/2007, you wrote: >-- "jim hearn" wrote: >Has anyone come up with a good solution to the black plastic male snaps >breaking especially in cold weather but even in warm weather? I avoided >matching them up with metal females but they seem to break with the same >regularity when mated up with plastic females. I thought a black metal male >would be ideal but so far have not been able to locate such a thing. > >Try going to a good upholstery shop for boats and autos....they should have >metal ones, or know where to get them..... > > >________________________________________________________________________ >Save hundreds of dollars a year with Juno Internet access. >Plans start as low as $9.95 a month. Visit Juno today! >http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://ads.addynamix.com/click/2-2130421-170 >_______________________________________________ >triumph at lincsat.com > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > >-- >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.8/906 - Release Date: >7/17/2007 6:30 PM > > > > >-- >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.8/906 - Release Date: >17/07/2007 6:30 PM ************************* Mike Graham Ottawa Valley Triumph Club 73 TR6, 71 GT6, 56 TR3 613-258-2901 From WLSServ at aol.com Thu Jul 19 10:37:44 2007 From: WLSServ at aol.com (WLSServ at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 12:37:44 EDT Subject: [TR] The TR6 snap thing Message-ID: I purchased a set of 100 at the local "Tandy" leather store, worked just fine. NFI Walt TCNF ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From jimbpps at cox.net Thu Jul 19 10:54:53 2007 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:54:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <4C40CACE9BEA4E48AB94F67B6E740EF4@JimofficePC> This is a great suggestion and a very clever idea from the Hagerty Insurance web site. Good luck, Jim Checking for Bondo Second Chance Garage One of the most frustrating things restorers have to face is the "surprise" hidden under a fresh coat of paint. You go out looking for a reasonably rust-free project car and the seller tells you that only thin films of body filler have been spread (over properly welded patches, of course.) You buy the car, take it home and strip away all the paint, only to find old rust areas that were improperly repaired and a thick layer of body filler hiding everything. That means you will have to repair it correctly and it also means you paid too much for the car. Next time you go out looking, leave that magnet home. Magnets don't really tell you there's a thick layer of filler unless there's no metal behind it. Instead, grab that Stud Sensor out of the toolbox. Stud Sensors are densitometers. They detect changes in density of materials, so if you slide one over a bad Bondo job its little lights will tell you there's something amiss. You might still want the car, but at least you won't pay too much. Second Chance Garage www.secondchancegarage.com From CarlSereda at aol.com Thu Jul 19 11:58:07 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 13:58:07 EDT Subject: [TR] Reversing light switch Message-ID: When you ordered a TR4/4A reverse light from the factory they just added a switch to dashboard (above the dimmer switch in a similar void area near top), as removing the dash brace, rugs, tranny cover, swapping in a different gearbox cover, piercing cover for wiring harness, reassembling everything again to new condition, would be a bit much for something they probably charged $15 for.. The Triumph Racing Green TR4 shown on Bill Piggotts first 'Triumph TR' book cover has a dash switch for the reverse light (I've pen-pal'd this guy in the Uk and he's strictly a 'keep it original' type owner - and he bought his TR4 brand new). ps; since my own TR4 lives in cardboard boxes, I've installed a reverse switch on my transmission cover. I had a local Brit yard guy drill and tap (with the odd thread) my disassembled cover, then reassembled guts and installed switch with shims for activation on selector rail bumps. Can't wait to back up.. Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 .. took it apart again in '99 or was it '98 >>a Grateful thanks to all who have helped with my reversing light query. It seems odd that my car was fitted with a reversing light ex factory and yet there is no switch on the gearbox. Perhaps Randall is right and someone has put a replacement lid on the box although nothing in the early history I have indicates that. Best wishes to all, David Brister. 1967 TR4A<<


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Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jul 19 13:26:41 2007 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (BobDanielson) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 15:26:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine References: <005a01c7c9d2$6a532ee0$9f54fd18@DowKKXX5RXWD9> <003f01c7ca0a$48849280$d98db780$@com> Message-ID: <001f01c7ca3a$bda06d70$32eaa8c0@LAPTOP> Richard Good can also be found at VTR.....I got to meet him and watch him autocross today.....man is he fast! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "R. Ashford Little II" <70tr6 at mindspring.com> To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 9:39 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine > Richard Good can be found at www.goodparts.com. > > > R. Ashford Little II > '70 TR6 > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > _______________________________________________ > 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From triumphstag at gmail.com Thu Jul 19 13:59:54 2007 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 12:59:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rolon timing chains Message-ID: A few years back, with the scandal of the German timing chains that Rimmers Bros sold, they sent me a set of standard timing chains for my Stag. These chains came out of boxes branded Rolon with a little tag labeled County. One of the chains has the name Rolon stamped on some of the links, not all, the other does not. >From doing a two page search on the web, there appears to be a handful of companies making chains under the brand name Rolon. With regard to the chains I received from RB, I'm assuming the chains I have, have been made by two different manufacturers. If a chain manufacturer makes a chain under the Rolon brand, shouldn't the chains look the same and be manufactured to the same spec? Can any shed some light on who/ what Rolon is? Sujit From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Jul 19 14:06:53 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 16:06:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] MIG WELDERS: please read Message-ID: <00d901c7ca40$5b4191d0$c50260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've read that for my gauge of mig wire and thickness of metal being welded by my 90 amp mig welder that I should be using 1.5 inches per second for WIRE FEED SPEED. That seems awful slow, Does anyone know? tHANKS, PAUL dORSEY 60 TR3 From rickandcecilia at comcast.net Thu Jul 19 14:48:37 2007 From: rickandcecilia at comcast.net (Rick & Cecilia) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 16:48:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] MIG WELDERS: please read References: <00d901c7ca40$5b4191d0$c50260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <036601c7ca46$2e523750$6cc1a8c0@IBMT42> Slow? That's fast my friend. I don't think I could keep up with that weld pool. Rick ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 4:06 PM Subject: [TR] MIG WELDERS: please read > I've read that for my gauge of mig wire and thickness of metal being > welded by > my 90 amp mig welder that I should be using 1.5 inches per second for WIRE > FEED SPEED. > That seems awful slow, Does anyone know? > > tHANKS, PAUL dORSEY > 60 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > rickandcecilia at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.9/907 - Release Date: 7/18/2007 > 3:30 PM From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jul 19 15:42:34 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 17:42:34 EDT Subject: [TR] MIG WELDERS: please read Message-ID: are you reading "second" but thinking "minute"? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Jul 19 15:47:14 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 17:47:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] MIG WELDERS: please read References: <00d901c7ca40$5b4191d0$c50260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <036601c7ca46$2e523750$6cc1a8c0@IBMT42> Message-ID: <00e101c7ca4e$6092c600$c50260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Rick, Not travel speed! I am asking about WIRE FEED SPEED. If I squeeze the trigger of my mig gun for 1 second, they tell me, that 1 1/2" of mig wire should come out. Is this about right? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From skip47 at powernet.net Thu Jul 19 17:57:26 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 16:57:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] MIG WELDERS: please read References: <00d901c7ca40$5b4191d0$c50260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71><036601c7ca46$2e523750$6cc1a8c0@IBMT42> <00e101c7ca4e$6092c600$c50260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <00aa01c7ca60$90295ed0$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Hi Paul- Wire feed speed usually depends on what you're welding. Does your welder have variable speeds? Lotsa variables; in general, the thicker the metal, the higher the speed. Wire diameter makes a difference, too. There's got to be a chart out there to give you some general parameters. Check with your local welding supply store. Meanwhile, I found the following: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/wire-speed.htm It's a video with explanation. Hope this helps- Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4, 66 TR4A, 70 TVR > If I squeeze the trigger of my mig gun for 1 second, they tell me, that 1 > 1/2" of mig wire should come out. Is this about right? > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 From dtennant at shaw.ca Thu Jul 19 18:29:15 2007 From: dtennant at shaw.ca (Donald Tennant) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 17:29:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Wetness and starting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46A001DB.9090702@shaw.ca> It sounds like the solenoid hasn't engaged the drive and the starter motor is running. Connections in the solenoid switch wet? Jack DeWolf wrote: >> 1974 TR6 with SU carbs - otherwise stock. If the motor compartment >> is seriously wet, i.e. engine hosed off after degreasing, engaging >> the starter produces a whine or buzz from an electrical >> component above the passenger footwell until the whole thing dries >> out (about 45 minutes or so) at which time the solenoid works >> normally again and all is well. When in 'whining mode" there is no >> click or indication that the solenoid is working. The sound only >> occurs when the key is in starter motor activation position. Any ideas as to: >> > > a) which component, relay or area's wetness causes this? > b) what is whining and why? > c) since it appears that the heavy positive cable goes directly from > the battery to the starter, where is the solenoid even located? > > > Thanks in advance > > > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > dtennant at shaw.ca > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 19 20:16:21 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 19:16:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Balancing the Carbs In-Reply-To: <469D7AA6.4050705@snet.net> References: <469D7AA6.4050705@snet.net> Message-ID: <191e01c7ca73$f706b450$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > When balancing the carburettors, Bentley says to loosen the > interconnection, and balance at 850 RPM and re tighten. Then > it says to > bring the engine to 1500rpm and re balance with the idle adjusting > screws. Do I loosen the interconnection again when I do > this? I believe the answer is "no". Sounds to me like the second step involves adjusting the "idle trim screws" that bleed air around the throttle plates, rather than the position of the throttle plate. > It then > says to balance with the choke on. Once again, do I loosen the > connector? Are you sure this third step isn't talking about adjusting the choke (starting bar) itself ? In any case, I'm pretty sure you don't loosen the clamp again, the clamp stays at the setting determined in step one. But I don't have a TR6 Bentley handy (and my home computer is on the fritz), so I'm just guessing. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 19 20:22:01 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 19:22:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: References: <161d01c7c8a2$ced9dcf0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <192801c7ca74$c1978be0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Just ahead of the throttle plate is a large bypass valve controlled by > intake manifold vacuum. Ah, I thought it might be something like that. > Another someday project is to incorporate a Hobbs vacuum switch and an > electronic timer that would engage the supercharger like a > passing gear. > What do you think? Sounds like a great idea to me. OTOH, I believe the power consumption of the blower with the bypass valve open is minimal. Might be simpler to just leave the blower turning all the time, and let the bypass valve deal with kicking in when manifold vacuum drops. I believe that is how the Moss setup works (definitely the way their setup for the Miata works). Then I would probably want an override switch for the bypass ... Thanks for the explanation, Rick. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Jul 19 20:32:05 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 22:32:05 EDT Subject: [TR] Balancing the Carbs Message-ID: In a message dated 7/19/2007 7:17:22 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: When balancing the carburettors, Bentley says to loosen the > interconnection, and balance at 850 RPM and re tighten. Then > it says to > bring the engine to 1500rpm and re balance with the idle adjusting > screws. Do I loosen the interconnection again when I do > this? I've not tried it yet on my TR, but on my E Type I learned a trick about setting the mixture: When you're adjusting the idle mixture and you have to turn the screw one direction or the other to see if it increases or decreases speed, its more difficult to tell at higher idle speeds. The trick I learned is to reduce the idle speed to as low as you can idle reliably. On my E Type, I can reduce to 500 or so, and then you can really tell which way you need to turn the mixture screw! Best, Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From jmitch at snet.net Thu Jul 19 20:41:11 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 22:41:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Balancing the Carbs In-Reply-To: <191e01c7ca73$f706b450$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: <469D7AA6.4050705@snet.net> <191e01c7ca73$f706b450$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <46A020C7.3010905@snet.net> From the other replies that I've gotten, I'm told to loosen, balance at 850 and tighten. The choke is adjusted with just the fast idle screws while it's connected. I haven't really had a good explanation about the idle adjustment at 1500, but it seems if I do a good job at 850, then at 1500 it's pretty close. John Randall wrote: >> When balancing the carburettors, Bentley says to loosen the >> interconnection, and balance at 850 RPM and re tighten. Then >> it says to >> bring the engine to 1500rpm and re balance with the idle adjusting >> screws. Do I loosen the interconnection again when I do >> this? >> > > I believe the answer is "no". Sounds to me like the second step involves > adjusting the "idle trim screws" that bleed air around the throttle plates, > rather than the position of the throttle plate. > > >> It then >> says to balance with the choke on. Once again, do I loosen the >> connector? >> > > Are you sure this third step isn't talking about adjusting the choke > (starting bar) itself ? In any case, I'm pretty sure you don't loosen the > clamp again, the clamp stays at the setting determined in step one. > > But I don't have a TR6 Bentley handy (and my home computer is on the fritz), > so I'm just guessing. > > Randall > (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) > > > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. > _______________________________________________ > jmitch at snet.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jmitch at snet.net Thu Jul 19 20:43:14 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 22:43:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Balancing the Carbs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46A02142.70409@snet.net> Actually, Ive had the best luck adjusting mixture by checking plug color. I was actually asking about balancing at Idle, but thanks for the advice. John MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 7/19/2007 7:17:22 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > > When balancing the carburettors, Bentley says to loosen the > >> interconnection, and balance at 850 RPM and re tighten. Then >> it says to >> bring the engine to 1500rpm and re balance with the idle adjusting >> screws. Do I loosen the interconnection again when I do >> this? >> > > > > I've not tried it yet on my TR, but on my E Type I learned a trick about > setting the mixture: > When you're adjusting the idle mixture and you have to turn the screw one > direction or the other to see if it increases or decreases speed, its more > difficult to tell at higher idle speeds. > The trick I learned is to reduce the idle speed to as low as you can idle > reliably. On my E Type, I can reduce to 500 or so, and then you can really tell > which way you need to turn the mixture screw! > > Best, Mike Moore > > > > ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at > http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour > _______________________________________________ > jmitch at snet.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jul 19 21:30:41 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 03:30:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] Balancing the Carbs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Best results may be obtained with the following procedure: 1. Remove carbs from the car. 2. Disassemble and clean carbs thoroughly in carb cleaner. 3. Compare the components of the carbs to insure that each carb is using identical parts. 4. Reassemble the carbs with new gaskets and components wherever necessary. 5. Carefully place the carbs on the weight scales of a triple balance beam scale. 6. Adjust any weight difference by grinding metal away from the body of the heavier carb. 7. Replace carbs on the car and connect all linkages and lines. 8. Add oil to the dashpot. 9. Set mixture screw at 10 "Flats" from closed. 10. Start car and idle at 780 RPMs. 11. Enrich mixture screw until the engine begins to run faster. 12. Lean mixture screw until the engine begins to miss. 13. Enrich mixture screw one to two flats from the point where the engine began missing. 14. If the above procedure does not produce the desired results consult a LBC mechanic. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507 From brianjone5 at mac.com Fri Jul 20 02:41:03 2007 From: brianjone5 at mac.com (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 04:41:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] When to change rubber bushings Message-ID: <53C0B8B6-551D-499A-AB77-E5A540ABFA13@mac.com> Tony wrote: It does constantly surprise me that we seem to have inferior "rubber" parts these days. Maybe even the OEM parts are not so great either. Just yesterday I was in the local Pep Boys and a guy was looking at some sort of rubber plug. He was on a cell phone commenting to someone about how crappy the rubber was. He said something like "These #$%^& parts made in India. The rubber lasts a few weeks" This is because rubber isn't rubber anymore. Not genuine rubber- rubber anyway. The global demand for rubber far exceeds the number of rubber trees planted. This manually collected crop cannot meet the demand of 6 billion people. We're dealing with different synthetic formulations aimed to replicate, or rather, vaguely approximate real rubber. I can imagine how much R&D went into the synthetic rubber used in the India plant for the low-cost Pep Boys parts referenced above. Zip. Brian in Valley Forge 1963 TR4 From foxtrapper at ispwest.com Fri Jul 20 03:42:56 2007 From: foxtrapper at ispwest.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 05:42:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] MIG WELDERS: please read References: <00d901c7ca40$5b4191d0$c50260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <001801c7cab2$5ab26a60$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Since you don't say what gauge wire or metal you're welding, one can't give you an exact answer. But, as a generic comment on mig welding thin sheet metal, that wire feed rate doesn't sound awfully slow to me. Having a 90 amp machine means nothing. Other than you can weld thicker metals than a 30 amp machine. You only use the power suitable for the metal thickness you're welding. The thinner the metal, the lower the power you use, and the slower the wire feed. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 4:06 PM Subject: [TR] MIG WELDERS: please read > I've read that for my gauge of mig wire and thickness of metal being > welded by > my 90 amp mig welder that I should be using 1.5 inches per second for WIRE > FEED SPEED. > That seems awful slow, Does anyone know? > > tHANKS, PAUL dORSEY > 60 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > foxtrapper at ispwest.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Jul 20 07:08:45 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 09:08:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] MIG WELDERS: please read References: <00d901c7ca40$5b4191d0$c50260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <001801c7cab2$5ab26a60$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <000a01c7cacf$1c34c590$6d0260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> thanks! From foxtrapper at ispwest.com Fri Jul 20 09:40:44 2007 From: foxtrapper at ispwest.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 11:40:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] When to change rubber bushings References: <53C0B8B6-551D-499A-AB77-E5A540ABFA13@mac.com> Message-ID: <000b01c7cae4$5f962c60$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> One of the things I've always found interesting with rubber bushings and gaskets is the vast difference in the oem quality. European cars have the absolute worse. They tend to start falling apart after just a few years. At the other end are the American cars. Those last for forever it seems. The Japanese cars are pretty good as well, but they don't survive rubbing as well as the American rubbers. As for aftermarket replacements, I've had them fail as I'm installing them. It's quite annoying to watch a new tie-rod end boot split as you're installing it. Some were better, and lasted to the end of the week. India and Israel sourced pieces seem to be the worse. As for our Triumphs, I mostly wish someone would make oem equivalent pieces, not sorta-equivalent pieces. Especially when it comes to things like window scrapers and the like. As in flocked on the inside so they actually slide on the glass, and rounded edged, not square that feels sharp under your arm. From triumph66 at gmail.com Fri Jul 20 10:10:22 2007 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 12:10:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] tappets In-Reply-To: <20070718035645.92438187A6F@autox.team.net> References: <9E4381A83DC2428080254FFBE7663B81@GeoPC> <20070718035645.92438187A6F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Actually, if you want to hear a loud TR, you should have heard [though I suspect many TR-listers have at previous VTRs] the Roadster Factory's TR4 Lemans 929HP car yesterday in front of the Sheraton's overhang. If you think the car is wonderful to look at, you should hear it in full rev in an enclosed space. Dave Hutchison was giving hand signals to Kirk from South Carolina as Kirk adjusted the carb mixture. They both have to be deaf after that experience. It was akin to listening to a jet fighter, but quite a kick! Kirk commented that the car needed some new fuel, and quipped "that fuel smells like varnish,... ah that car has original fuel, that's what it is, original fuel..." TL On 7/17/07, wbeech wrote: > > You think your TR is loud, go out and get a vintage TR motorcycle, the > correct valve noice is deafening. > > Bill B > '58 TR3 TS/30766 L(O) > "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" > -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Jul 20 10:56:04 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 12:56:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Silicon oil removal from carpet Message-ID: <380-22007752016564974@M2W016.mail2web.com> Does anybody have a solution for cleaning silicon fluid out of a carpet? I havent tried anything yet, but was thinking of just removing the carpet and using a carpet cleaner of some kind. Just thought I would check to see if anybody had already gone through this for possible pitfalls. Silicon is fairly hard to remove, and was thinking that conventional cleaners might not be able to remove it. Just had a clutch master cylinder start leaking, and while it's nice not to have to worry about the paint blistering, with Triumphs mounting configuration of the cylinders, you still have the inevitable leaking down the pedal, and onto the carpet :-)! Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Jul 20 11:25:00 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 12:25:00 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Silicon oil removal from carpet Message-ID: <29634258.1972911184952300991.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> Don't feel bad, it happened to me with my TR6 but I was lucky enough to have rubber matts on top of my brand new wool carpet from TRF. Take care, Craig Does anybody have a solution for cleaning silicon fluid out of a carpet? I havent tried anything yet, but was thinking of just removing the carpet and using a carpet cleaner of some kind. Just thought I would check to see if anybody had already gone through this for possible pitfalls. Silicon is fairly hard to remove, and was thinking that conventional cleaners might not be able to remove it. Just had a clutch master cylinder start leaking, and while it's nice not to have to worry about the paint blistering, with Triumphs mounting configuration of the cylinders, you still have the inevitable leaking down the pedal, and onto the carpet :-)! Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE _______________________________________________ thenicholls at verizon.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 20 11:22:40 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 10:22:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Silicon oil removal from carpet In-Reply-To: <380-22007752016564974@M2W016.mail2web.com> References: <380-22007752016564974@M2W016.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <1a7101c7caf2$93693330$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Just thought I > would check to see > if anybody had already gone through this for possible > pitfalls. I haven't, but the PPG/Ditzler Acryli-Clean I use to remove silicone before painting seems pretty harmless to most things. It won't harm healthy paint nor my skin, so I'd guess it's probably OK on carpet too. Obviously, try it on a hidden piece first. I've heard that NAPA carries it sometimes, or almost any place that sells auto paint not in rattle cans should have it (or an equivalent). Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From James.Olson at Kofc.Org Fri Jul 20 12:28:44 2007 From: James.Olson at Kofc.Org (James.Olson at Kofc.Org) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 14:28:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 07/20/2007 and will not return until 07/23/2007. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message and any attachments may contain confidential, proprietary or legally privileged information and is intended only for the use of the addressee or addressees named above for its intended purpose. If you are not the intended recipient of this message, this message constitutes notice that any review, retransmission, distribution, copying or other use or taking any action in reliance on the information in this message and its attachments, is prohibited. If you receive this communication in error, please immediately advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete this message and its attachments from your system without keeping a copy. Unless expressly stated in this e-mail, nothing in this message may be construed as a digital or electronic signature. Thank you. From willgray at vaxxine.com Fri Jul 20 12:40:33 2007 From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett and Carol Gray) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 14:40:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A; Wiring Diagram..Heater (and other) connections? Message-ID: None of the various wiring diagrams for the TR3A that I have in my possession indicate where the "optional" heater (switch) should connected to the system. Can someone enlighten me, please? And for supplementary driving lights? Thank you. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 20 12:55:05 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 11:55:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] When to change rubber bushings In-Reply-To: <53C0B8B6-551D-499A-AB77-E5A540ABFA13@mac.com> References: <53C0B8B6-551D-499A-AB77-E5A540ABFA13@mac.com> Message-ID: <1a8501c7caff$7ca30c40$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > This is because rubber isn't rubber anymore. Not genuine rubber- > rubber anyway. The global demand for rubber far exceeds the > number of > rubber trees planted. > This manually collected crop cannot meet the demand of 6 > billion people. Thing is, cars haven't used natural rubber (for the most part) for the last 70-80 years. World demand outstripped supply way back in the 1920's, leading to the development of Neoprene in 1930, and Buna-S in 1933. WW2 cut off the US's supply of natural rubber, and we've been using synthetics ever since. There are literally hundreds of different synthetic rubbers, though, and obviously some sources are using either cheaper versions, or not curing them properly. Even natural rubber has to be carefully treated to be useable, and if the treatment isn't done right, it will fall apart rapidly. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 20 13:21:24 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 12:21:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A; Wiring Diagram..Heater (and other) connections? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1a8601c7cb03$29cb53c0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > None of the various wiring diagrams for the TR3A that I have in my > possession indicate where the "optional" heater (switch) should > connected to the system. Can someone enlighten me, please? I believe the factory connected it to the terminal on the fuel gauge, with the green wire. However, the only evidence I have for that is that I've found several apparently original panels that were wired that way. The workshop manual mentions connecting it to the wiper switch, but of course that only works on earlier cars without the self-parking wipers. But you could connect anywhere into the 'green' circuit. The fuel gauge is just convenient, that's all. > And for supplementary driving lights? I would guess that the factory setup had these on the "blue" terminal at the main light switch. But that's just a SWAG. If originality isn't important, I'd suggest using a relay and powering it from the brown/blue at the control box. If you want to keep it wired so the driving lights only come on with the headlights, you could get the switch power from the blue wire at the main switch. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jul 20 13:45:39 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 13:45:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A; Wiring Diagram..Heater (and other) connections? In-Reply-To: <1a8601c7cb03$29cb53c0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <20070720194559.967B9187A29@autox.team.net> I agree with Randall, mine is connected at the fuel guage as well. Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 L(O) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 1:21 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A; Wiring Diagram..Heater (and other) connections? > None of the various wiring diagrams for the TR3A that I have in my > possession indicate where the "optional" heater (switch) should > connected to the system. Can someone enlighten me, please? I believe the factory connected it to the terminal on the fuel gauge, with the green wire. However, the only evidence I have for that is that I've found several apparently original panels that were wired that way. The workshop manual mentions connecting it to the wiper switch, but of course that only works on earlier cars without the self-parking wipers. But you could connect anywhere into the 'green' circuit. The fuel gauge is just convenient, that's all. > And for supplementary driving lights? I would guess that the factory setup had these on the "blue" terminal at the main light switch. But that's just a SWAG. If originality isn't important, I'd suggest using a relay and powering it from the brown/blue at the control box. If you want to keep it wired so the driving lights only come on with the headlights, you could get the switch power from the blue wire at the main switch. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.10/908 - Release Date: 7/19/2007 6:10 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.10/908 - Release Date: 7/19/2007 6:10 PM From acs25m at swbell.net Fri Jul 20 14:36:41 2007 From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 15:36:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm Message-ID: <001801c7cb0d$ae3794c0$ef00a8c0@computerroom> I own a TR250 that I am having problems with. The car had 185/65r 15 tires on it when purchased. I knew that these were not the right size tires and it was causing my Speedo to be off. Well I recently purchased replacement 205/70r 15 tires and with my wife pacing me in another car the Speedo is now correct. My problem is that the engine is still running at a higher rpm than I think it should. At 60 mph my tack registers right at 3500 rpm. I downloaded an excel spread sheet that was talked about on line and the only way to get that rpm reading would be with 4.55 gears. I don't have an overdrive and highway driving makes the car overheat. Short of removing and disassembling the rear end is there any way to tell what rear-end gears are really in the car. Any help would be appreciated, John R Maneke From tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org Fri Jul 20 14:48:44 2007 From: tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org (Terry Geiger) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 15:48:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm References: <001801c7cb0d$ae3794c0$ef00a8c0@computerroom> Message-ID: <000c01c7cb0f$5ce555b0$041e14ac@aitinc.local> John, Check your tach against a known good tach as the tachs can become inaccurate over time. An electric tach can be used to test with. Your car should be running about 3000 rpm at 60 mph in top gear (assuming no overdrive). The speedo and tach were design to track with each other in top gear so 2krpm should get you 40mph, 3k rpm 60 mph and so on. Terry Geiger '74 Triumph TR6 | '63 Triumph Herald | '70 MGBGT | '84 Mercedes 300D Diesel http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/ ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 3:36 PM Subject: [TR] high engine rpm >I own a TR250 that I am having problems with. The car had 185/65r 15 tires > on it when purchased. I knew that these were not the right size tires and > it > was causing my Speedo to be off. Well I recently purchased replacement > 205/70r 15 tires and with my wife pacing me in another car the Speedo is > now > correct. My problem is that the engine is still running at a higher rpm > than > I think it should. At 60 mph my tack registers right at 3500 rpm. I > downloaded an excel spread sheet that was talked about on line and the > only > way to get that rpm reading would be with 4.55 gears. I don't have an > overdrive and highway driving makes the car overheat. Short of removing > and > disassembling the rear end is there any way to tell what rear-end gears > are > really in the car. > > Any help would be appreciated, > > John R Maneke > _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 20 14:55:58 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 13:55:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <001801c7cb0d$ae3794c0$ef00a8c0@computerroom> References: <001801c7cb0d$ae3794c0$ef00a8c0@computerroom> Message-ID: <1aa901c7cb10$5fa06190$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > At 60 mph my tack registers right at 3500 rpm. Could be the tach is wrong. Should be closer to 2900 rpm (with 205/70-15 tires & 3.7 gears), and reading 600 rpm high isn't terribly uncommon for these old mechanical tachs. > Short of removing and > disassembling the rear end is there any way to tell what > rear-end gears are > really in the car. Lots of ways. If you jack up one rear wheel (leaving the other touching the ground or otherwise blocked from turning), you can put a mark on the wheel and on the driveshaft and count how many turns the driveshaft makes for 2 full turns of the wheel. The driveshaft will turn less than 4 full turns if you have the standard 3.7 gears; more than 4 full turns if you have 4.1 or 4.55 gears. To get a more accurate value, turn the wheel 20 full turns, giving 37 turns of the driveshaft for a 3.7, or 41 or 45.5 for the other ratios. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From patton at suscom-maine.net Fri Jul 20 15:20:25 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 17:20:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine In-Reply-To: <192801c7ca74$c1978be0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: Hi Randall, I know what you mean about the blower just idling along but even at that it howls. And just as you mentioned it only builds boost when called upon even when engaged. It's sound is something that really turns heads and most likely collects tickets if your not careful. I'll have to get a video of the dyno session posted and you can hear it for yourself. Will try to post it in the next day or two. Rick > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of Randall snip > OTOH, I believe the power consumption of the blower with the bypass valve > open is minimal. Might be simpler to just leave the blower > turning all the From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jul 20 15:45:49 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 17:45:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] high engine rpm Message-ID: <20070720174549.AAN50588@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Terry Geiger wrote: > The speedo and tach were design to track with each other in > top gear so 2krpm should get you 40mph, 3k rpm 60 mph and > so on. Through the clever use of advance technology before the development of microprocessors, Triumph engineers were able to make the engine speed and road speed track linearly with each other no matter what gear you were in! And of course, if he fixes his mal-adjusted tach so that it reports rpms correctly that will also cure his overheating on the highway. But all seriousness aside though, when I read that original posting I was struck by the tire size issue. (Did the TR6 really come with 205/70's?) I wondered if maybe a PO had tweaked the tires and/or diff to get better torque to the wheels at the cost of higher rpms. A PO might have changed both. Of course, we are smart enough to know that tweaking the tire size is equivalent to tweaking the diff ratio as far as road speed vs. rpms is concerned, so if his new correct tires restored the accuracy of the spedoometer then the diff must be correct too (unless the spedoometer was wrong, except that he checked it against another vehicle). So the only possibilities are either that the gearing was changed or that the tach is inaccurate and the overheating is a different problem completely. The latter seems more likely. Jim Muller, who once owned an immobile TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 20 16:49:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 15:49:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Balancing a Fan In-Reply-To: <000001c7c8b4$0b4c5990$280210ac@idea.com> References: <000001c7c8b4$0b4c5990$280210ac@idea.com> Message-ID: <1aec01c7cb20$49790b50$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > In the workshop manual it talks about a 1/16" hole that you > use to line > everything up. > Only problem is none of my fan pieces, have a guide hole!! > > How do you perform this balance without a hole? The hole is drilled as a witness mark, once everything is balanced. To balance new components, you'll need a device to support the fan & hub assembly exactly on-center and allow it to turn freely, so you can find which side is heavier. Unfortunately I have no idea where to find such a device, short of live centers in a lathe, or making something yourself. I solved the problem by hanging the mechanical fan on the garage wall and leaving it there Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From jerryvv at adelphia.net Fri Jul 20 17:49:02 2007 From: jerryvv at adelphia.net (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 19:49:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] When to change rubber bushings References: <53C0B8B6-551D-499A-AB77-E5A540ABFA13@mac.com> <000b01c7cae4$5f962c60$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <00db01c7cb28$8cada8b0$6401a8c0@toshibauser> I know a little about rubber components as I sold them to the OEM's for the last 20 years and I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express on several of my business trips! Others have said and they are correct, that there are many different compounds as well as polymers to choose from when developing a rubber part. Ideally you start with a set of performance parameters such as temperature, fluids, dynamics and environmental conditions before your design a rubber part. Each of the synthetic polymers as well as natural rubber do well or not so well in specific applications. Natural rubber is the best for dynamic applications such as engine, transmission, suspension, differential or even wiper motor mounts. It's not so good around oils and fuels. When our cars were made the engineers selected available polymers for specific applications and then had parts designed for those applications. Designs took into account cost as well as performance. Other synthetic polymers such as EPDM are excellent for Ozone resistance and are used in window and door trim areas or perhaps truck seals. Nitriles are generally good for oils and greases and with each additional performance constraint came added costs. Today compounds can range from pennies a pound to several dollars per pound for the ones needed to withstand high temperatures or very aggressive fluids. I could go on but hopefully you get the general idea of how a particular rubber polymer was selected and are still selected for automobile applications. Many times two different chemists will arrive at a compound formula that meets the performance requirements but have significantly different costs. In today's automotive world cost is the driving factor and sometimes takes priority over performance much to the disgust of the engineer and chemist who worked so hard to develop the right parts. Moving to our parts (or any collector car parts) made at relatively low volumes for a small group of consumers and by folks both in the US and overseas the cost becomes even more important to the small group of suppliers. I will guess that original drawings or material specifications as well as performance criteria are long gone and now the production of parts is left to trying to duplicate dimensionally some old stock part and the selection of an appropriate compound and polymer is left to the supplier to decide based on very little performance criteria. Couple that with little or no actual testing as well as sourcing in some 3rd world nation it doesn't surprise me that we get what we get when it comes to rubber parts made for our cars. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nolan" To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 11:40 AM Subject: Re: [TR] When to change rubber bushings > One of the things I've always found interesting with rubber bushings and > gaskets is the vast difference in the oem quality. European cars have the > absolute worse. They tend to start falling apart after just a few years. > At the other end are the American cars. Those last for forever it seems. > The Japanese cars are pretty good as well, but they don't survive rubbing as > well as the American rubbers. > > As for aftermarket replacements, I've had them fail as I'm installing them. > It's quite annoying to watch a new tie-rod end boot split as you're > installing it. Some were better, and lasted to the end of the week. India > and Israel sourced pieces seem to be the worse. > > As for our Triumphs, I mostly wish someone would make oem equivalent pieces, > not sorta-equivalent pieces. Especially when it comes to things like window > scrapers and the like. As in flocked on the inside so they actually slide > on the glass, and rounded edged, not square that feels sharp under your arm. From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Fri Jul 20 19:05:21 2007 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (KURT JOHNSON) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:05:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <001801c7cb0d$ae3794c0$ef00a8c0@computerroom> Message-ID: <566742.18158.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com> http://people.umass.edu/tcroy/articles/differential.htm --- acs25m at swbell.net wrote: > I own a TR250 that I am having problems with. The > car had 185/65r 15 tires > on it when purchased. I knew that these were not the > right size tires and it > was causing my Speedo to be off. Well I recently > purchased replacement > 205/70r 15 tires and with my wife pacing me in > another car the Speedo is now > correct. My problem is that the engine is still > running at a higher rpm than > I think it should. At 60 mph my tack registers right > at 3500 rpm. I > downloaded an excel spread sheet that was talked > about on line and the only > way to get that rpm reading would be with 4.55 > gears. I don't have an > overdrive and highway driving makes the car > overheat. Short of removing and > disassembling the rear end is there any way to tell > what rear-end gears are > really in the car. > > Any help would be appreciated, > > John R Maneke > _______________________________________________ > kajohns64 at yahoo.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph > Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > ____________________________________________________________________________________ We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list. http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265 From spitlist at cox.net Fri Jul 20 19:13:40 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:13:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <566742.18158.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <001801c7cb0d$ae3794c0$ef00a8c0@computerroom> <566742.18158.qm@web81712.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000901c7cb34$5f961e00$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Yes, You can jack up the rear of the car and while preventing one rear wheel from turning, rotate the drive shaft and count the number of revolutions that the drive shaft must be rotated to cause the free wheel to turn one complete revolution. The ratio of those two elements will reveal the ratio of the diff. In other words, if you have to turn the shaft 4.11 turns, you have a 4.11 rear end. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KURT JOHNSON Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 6:05 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] high engine rpm http://people.umass.edu/tcroy/articles/differential.htm --- acs25m at swbell.net wrote: > I own a TR250 that I am having problems with. The > car had 185/65r 15 tires > on it when purchased. I knew that these were not the > right size tires and it > was causing my Speedo to be off. Well I recently > purchased replacement > 205/70r 15 tires and with my wife pacing me in > another car the Speedo is now > correct. My problem is that the engine is still > running at a higher rpm than > I think it should. At 60 mph my tack registers right > at 3500 rpm. I > downloaded an excel spread sheet that was talked > about on line and the only > way to get that rpm reading would be with 4.55 > gears. I don't have an > overdrive and highway driving makes the car > overheat. Short of removing and > disassembling the rear end is there any way to tell > what rear-end gears are > really in the car. > > Any help would be appreciated, > > John R Maneke > _______________________________________________ > kajohns64 at yahoo.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph > Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list. http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265 _______________________________________________ spitlist at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From L1J1S at aol.com Fri Jul 20 19:23:23 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 21:23:23 EDT Subject: [TR] judson supercharger Message-ID: list, looking to see who is running a judson supercharger on their triumphs.i myself have one on my 1060 tr3-a. any leads would also greatly be appreciated. larry schwartz ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Jul 20 22:11:08 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 00:11:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU Sychronicity Message-ID: <003c01c7cb4d$2bfa1b00$6d0260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am just wondering here- If my SU H6 Carbs were setup identical, and the only difference in the two carbs was that the rate of manual piston/needle drop between them was different, I would do my best to synchronize them. Also I noticed that one would get stuck and could be remedied by loosening the three screws holding down the cover/dashpot. These screws were not tightened back down much. The other carb had a bent 'oil dipstick' that after straightening it allowed the piston to drop freely. If the manual piston/needle drop of the 2 carbs was even after performing these two 'fixes', could I then be satisfied to only closely monitor them for smooth and continual & equal piston drop? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jul 20 22:30:45 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 04:30:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm Message-ID: <072120070430.20142.46A18BF500001D1E00004EAE22070029539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Joe Curry" > Yes, > You can jack up the rear of the car and while preventing one rear wheel from > turning, rotate the drive shaft and count the number of revolutions that the > drive shaft must be rotated to cause the free wheel to turn one complete > revolution. The ratio of those two elements will reveal the ratio of the > diff. > > In other words, if you have to turn the shaft 4.11 turns, you have a 4.11 > rear end. > > Joe You are off by a factor of 2. :-) -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From dtennant at shaw.ca Fri Jul 20 22:44:09 2007 From: dtennant at shaw.ca (Donald Tennant) Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 21:44:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] judson supercharger In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46A18F19.6090003@shaw.ca> this would be the tr 3 that was built for the Norman Conquest L1J1S at aol.com wrote: > list, looking to see who is running a judson supercharger on their > triumphs.i myself have one on my 1060 tr3-a. any leads would also greatly be > appreciated. larry schwartz > > > > ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at > http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour > _______________________________________________ > dtennant at shaw.ca > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From geneglenn at phoenixazcommercialproperty.com Wed Jul 18 15:44:12 2007 From: geneglenn at phoenixazcommercialproperty.com (Gene Glenn) Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 14:44:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Drat. In-Reply-To: <469E8A8D.5070705@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <001d01c7c984$c7c08ee0$6401a8c0@glen> Mark, Be sure, be very sure to be at Triumphfest. Lots of us on the List are going to be there. Gene Glenn -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+geneglenn=qwest.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+geneglenn=qwest.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J. Bradakis Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2007 2:48 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Drat. I wish things had worked out for me to be at VTR. So it goes. Maybe Triumphest this fall. mjb. _______________________________________________ geneglenn at qwest.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jul 21 05:47:10 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 07:47:10 EDT Subject: [TR] high engine rpm Message-ID: In a message dated 7/20/2007 11:31:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: You are off by a factor of 2. :-) Please explain. I would have said the same thing. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From jawilson40 at bellsouth.net Sat Jul 21 07:14:52 2007 From: jawilson40 at bellsouth.net (Joe Wilson) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 08:14:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Balancing a Fan Message-ID: You could try using a lawn mower blade balancer, which can be obtained at hardware stores. It is a hollow, stepped, conical shaped piece which has a stand consisting of a base and a spike sticking up which rests in the center of the cone. Joe 58 TR3A, TS40336LO [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jul 21 09:22:01 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 08:22:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901c7cbaa$e2f6c350$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Yes, Please explain. The ratio is what it is and therefore I don't understand what you mean by "off by a factor of 2". Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 4:47 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] high engine rpm In a message dated 7/20/2007 11:31:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: You are off by a factor of 2. :-) Please explain. I would have said the same thing. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ spitlist at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From flashtr3 at cox.net Sat Jul 21 09:42:43 2007 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 08:42:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Silicon oil removal from carpet References: <380-22007752016564974@M2W016.mail2web.com> <1a7101c7caf2$93693330$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <001f01c7cbad$c799bab0$9f54fd18@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I have used "Prep-Sol" another product similar to the PPG/Diztler Acryli-Clean and have removed almost all of silicon from carpets. However, some color change can occur of the carpet on the lighter colors. Good Luck, Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 10:22 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Silicon oil removal from carpet >> Just thought I >> would check to see >> if anybody had already gone through this for possible >> pitfalls. > > I haven't, but the PPG/Ditzler Acryli-Clean I use to remove silicone > before > painting seems pretty harmless to most things. It won't harm healthy > paint > nor my skin, so I'd guess it's probably OK on carpet too. Obviously, try > it > on a hidden piece first. > > I've heard that NAPA carries it sometimes, or almost any place that sells > auto paint not in rattle cans should have it (or an equivalent). > > Randall > > > CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it > may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of > its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or > entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and > not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. > If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for > delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that > you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, > dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is > strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, > please immediately notify the sender by return mail. > _______________________________________________ > flashtr3 at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From banjonut at verizon.net Sat Jul 21 12:08:56 2007 From: banjonut at verizon.net (STEVE BALL) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 11:08:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pedal Assy. Message-ID: <000e01c7cbc2$34f2f4a0$6500a8c0@HAMPC> Hello again to the list, I'm working on the reassembly of our TR3A and I've run into a snag (but then, what's new). I wonder if anybody on the list would be willing to part with a decent brake/clutch pedal assembly for this car. Mine is worn out to the point of destruction, so I need everything...pedals, cross shaft, and their "housing". I need the parts that mount up to the firewall from inside the driver's compartment....everything south of the master cylinders. Since I get the list as a digest, please reply to my home email: banjonut at verizon.net. Thanks in advance, Steve Ball Lompoc Ca TR3A TS68164L in a million pieces but coming together. From mark at bradakis.com Sat Jul 21 12:14:20 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 12:14:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <000901c7cbaa$e2f6c350$2202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <000901c7cbaa$e2f6c350$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <46A24CFC.9090904@bradakis.com> >Yes, Please explain. The ratio is what it is and therefore I don't >understand what you mean by "off by a factor of 2". > > > If you had a welded diff where the axles on each side were NOT free to move indepentently then you'd be fine with the simple test. But since you hold one wheel steady and turn the other, you are making the "differential" part of the diff work, and you'd see that the carrier with the ring gear would move only half as much as the wheel. It is pretty easy to visualize oif you take the back cover off and watch ;-) mjb. From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jul 21 13:35:25 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 12:35:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <46A24CFC.9090904@bradakis.com> References: <000901c7cbaa$e2f6c350$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <46A24CFC.9090904@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <001301c7cbce$497b7e40$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Mark, In your example, you would not be able to keep 0ne wheel stationary because a locked (welded) diff would force both wheels to move together. I tried several different methods a few years ago to see what really worked and the steps that I presented was the only method that yielded the proper results. Basically, keeping one wheel stationary theoretically makes the free wheel spin according to the differential ratio. (Or that is certainly the way my 60 year old brain remembers it). Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J. Bradakis Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 11:14 AM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] high engine rpm >Yes, Please explain. The ratio is what it is and therefore I don't >understand what you mean by "off by a factor of 2". > > > If you had a welded diff where the axles on each side were NOT free to move indepentently then you'd be fine with the simple test. But since you hold one wheel steady and turn the other, you are making the "differential" part of the diff work, and you'd see that the carrier with the ring gear would move only half as much as the wheel. It is pretty easy to visualize oif you take the back cover off and watch ;-) mjb. _______________________________________________ spitlist at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jul 21 13:35:56 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 15:35:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings Message-ID: <002401c7cbce$69dcad80$210110ac@bobspc> Well, Jeanne and I are back home after covering 658 miles going to, attending and driving home from VTR. The car never missed a beat, got 27 mpg at 65 mph with my 4 speed, burned or leaked a smidge of oil, oil pressure hovered at 55 - 60 lbs and the temp gauge stayed a tick under 1/2 with no mechanical fan and the electric fan not running. The only time I needed the fan on was when I wasn't moving, so dump those mechanical fans and gain some free horsepower! There were lots of Listers in attendance and it was great to see some old faces as well as to put some new faces to old names. At the risk of forgetting someone, I'll leave it at there were at least 15 - 20 of us. I will mention one....Fred Thomas...got special recognition at the awards banquet by receiving an award that recognizes "use of your Triumph" and by putting well over 100,000 miles on it over the years as he attends event after event. It was either the Richardson or McCartney (sp?) award. Someone help me out here. Even though Joe Curry wasn't in attendance, his website (with the Spit database) won an award along with the site of some other guy named Danielson :-) All told, 4 individual sites were recognized as were 4 Chapter sites. The Delaware Valley Triumph folks did a spectacular job hosting and filling VTR with great driving events. Everything from the fun rally's to the auto cross to the concurs and wrapping up with the Mummers String Band at the awards banquet was perfect. They even managed to keep most of the rain off of us during the various events. Bob's Smart Idea: installing new wiper blades before leaving as it rained Tues-Thur, late afternoon or at night. Bob's Dumb Idea: Adding that smidge of oil before leaving for home today and discovering 2 hours later at a NJ rest area that he left the cap off the valve cover and now has oil everywhere under the hood. But the cap was resting right on the battery where I left it. DUH Bob's Smart Idea: Pulling the aluminum cap off of the windshield and chalking it so it wouldn't leak on me when it rained. Bob's Dumb Idea: Not testing the cap to see if it still didn't leak....well, my side is dry but now it leaks on the wife! Ooops Bob's Smart Idea: Taking 2 cars so Jeanne could come and go while I got to play with Triumphs all day long. Bob's Dumb Idea: Taking 2 cars and not realizing that the largest Mall in the country (King of Prussia Mall) was just around the corner. Anybody see my wife? Great to be home. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.12/910 - Release Date: 7/21/2007 3:52 PM From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jul 21 15:51:10 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 17:51:10 EDT Subject: [TR] high engine rpm Message-ID: OK. let's imagine for a moment that we have a car with a 3.7:1 differential and it is sitting with one wheel on dry pavement, and the other wheel is on ice. You Northern guys ought to get this! You give it some gas in gear and go nowhere. Are we saying that the ratio to the spinning wheel is not 3.7:1? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From bielings at comcast.net Sat Jul 21 15:41:48 2007 From: bielings at comcast.net (PBieling) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 17:41:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vapor Lock? Message-ID: <001f01c7cbdf$f1b5af70$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> The TR3 starts right up cold. I drive till it's good and hot. Then I shut it off. If I go to restart it right away it takes 20 seconds or so of running the new Moss starter till she fires up. It has been hot here in the northeast soooo I am thinking vapor lock. Any ideas on how to cure it. From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sat Jul 21 16:08:31 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 15:08:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Silicon oil removal from carpet In-Reply-To: <001f01c7cbad$c799bab0$9f54fd18@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <380-22007752016564974@M2W016.mail2web.com> <1a7101c7caf2$93693330$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <3.0.4.32.20070721150831.00e8b5e0@pop.west.cox.net> Thanks, i do have some from a previous job. I'll give it a try since they are black carpets anyway - ************************************************ >I have used "Prep-Sol" another product similar to the PPG/Diztler >Acryli-Clean and have removed almost all of silicon from carpets. However, >some color change can occur of the carpet on the lighter colors. Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.12/910 - Release Date: 7/21/2007 3:52 PM From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jul 21 16:19:55 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 15:19:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000801c7cbe5$44119220$2202a8c0@newcomputer> David, That situation is a whole different issue. In my scenario, I have one wheel set so that it does not turn at all. In your scenario, you really can't know or control what either of the two wheels are doing. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 2:51 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] high engine rpm OK. let's imagine for a moment that we have a car with a 3.7:1 differential and it is sitting with one wheel on dry pavement, and the other wheel is on ice. You Northern guys ought to get this! You give it some gas in gear and go nowhere. Are we saying that the ratio to the spinning wheel is not 3.7:1? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ spitlist at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From kentshrack at yahoo.com Sat Jul 21 17:49:16 2007 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 16:49:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] off subject shipping Message-ID: <981035.38058.qm@web57805.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Need to ship an oven from Indianapolis to Kansas City, down I-70, What is the cheapest? THANKS Kent Shrack --------------------------------- Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! From mark at bradakis.com Sat Jul 21 18:27:34 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:27:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <000801c7cbe5$44119220$2202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <000801c7cbe5$44119220$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <46A2A476.7020708@bradakis.com> > That situation is a whole different issue. In my scenario, I have one wheel set so that it does > not turn at all. Actually what he describes is *exactly* the same - the wheel on dry pavement does not turn at all - all the torque goes to the wheel on the ice that offers no resistance. mjb. From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Jul 21 18:34:19 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 20:34:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings In-Reply-To: <002401c7cbce$69dcad80$210110ac@bobspc> References: <002401c7cbce$69dcad80$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <8C99A0F2D068251-820-E6E4@MBLK-M35.sysops.aol.com> Congrats on the website kudo's...you deserve it! Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Sent: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 3:35 pm Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings Well, Jeanne and I are back home after covering 658 miles going to, attending and driving home from VTR. The car never missed a beat, got 27 mpg at 65 mph with my 4 speed, burned or leaked a smidge of oil, oil pressure hovered at 55 - 60 lbs and the temp gauge stayed a tick under 1/2 with no mechanical fan and the electric fan not running. The only time I needed the fan on was when I wasn't moving, so dump those mechanical fans and gain some free horsepower! There were lots of Listers in attendance and it was great to see some old faces as well as to put some new faces to old names. At the risk of forgetting someone, I'll leave it at there were at least 15 - 20 of us. I will mention one....Fred Thomas...got special recognition at the awards banquet by receiving an award that recognizes "use of your Triumph" and by putting well over 100,000 miles on it over the years as he attends event after event. It was either the Richardson or McCartney (sp?) award. Someone help me out here. Even though Joe Curry wasn't in attendance, his website (with the Spit database) won an award along with the site of some other guy named Danielson :-) All told, 4 individual sites were recognized as were 4 Chapter sites. The Delaware Valley Triumph folks did a spectacular job hosting and filling VTR with great driving events. Everything from the fun rally's to the auto cross to the concurs and wrapping up with the Mummers String Band at the awards banquet was perfect. They even managed to keep most of the rain off of us during the various events. Bob's Smart Idea: installing new wiper blades before leaving as it rained Tues-Thur, late afternoon or at night. Bob's Dumb Idea: Adding that smidge of oil before leaving for home today and discovering 2 hours later at a NJ rest area that he left the cap off the valve cover and now has oil everywhere under the hood. But the cap was resting right on the battery where I left it. DUH Bob's Smart Idea: Pulling the aluminum cap off of the windshield and chalking it so it wouldn't leak on me when it rained. Bob's Dumb Idea: Not testing the cap to see if it still didn't leak....well, my side is dry but now it leaks on the wife! Ooops Bob's Smart Idea: Taking 2 cars so Jeanne could come and go while I got to play with Triumphs all day long. Bob's Dumb Idea: Taking 2 cars and not realizing that the largest Mall in the country (King of Prussia Mall) was just around the corner. Anybody see my wife? Great to be home. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.12/910 - Release Date: 7/21/2007 3:52 PM _______________________________________________ acekraut11 at aol.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jul 21 18:49:39 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 17:49:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <46A2A476.7020708@bradakis.com> References: <000801c7cbe5$44119220$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <46A2A476.7020708@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000901c7cbfa$2f253aa0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Well, It would appear to be that way , but there is no way at all to know how many revolutions the drive shaft is turning and thus measure the ratio. To be able to determine the ratio without disassembling the diff, you have to set up a controlled situation. That is what I was describing. (Apples and oranges) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J. Bradakis Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 5:28 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] high engine rpm > That situation is a whole different issue. In my scenario, I have one wheel set so that it does > not turn at all. Actually what he describes is *exactly* the same - the wheel on dry pavement does not turn at all - all the torque goes to the wheel on the ice that offers no resistance. mjb. _______________________________________________ spitlist at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jul 21 18:57:46 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:57:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <000901c7cbfa$2f253aa0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <20070722005804.327D2187A45@autox.team.net> Jack it up, put a chalk mark on the d/s and the wheel and turn the shaft by hand, counting revs, until the wheel goes around once. Not too tought, is it? Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 L(O) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 6:50 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] high engine rpm Well, It would appear to be that way , but there is no way at all to know how many revolutions the drive shaft is turning and thus measure the ratio. To be able to determine the ratio without disassembling the diff, you have to set up a controlled situation. That is what I was describing. (Apples and oranges) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J. Bradakis Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 5:28 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] high engine rpm > That situation is a whole different issue. In my scenario, I have one wheel set so that it does > not turn at all. Actually what he describes is *exactly* the same - the wheel on dry pavement does not turn at all - all the torque goes to the wheel on the ice that offers no resistance. mjb. _______________________________________________ spitlist at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.11/909 - Release Date: 7/20/2007 4:39 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.11/909 - Release Date: 7/20/2007 4:39 PM From JerrysJaguar at comcast.net Sat Jul 21 19:52:24 2007 From: JerrysJaguar at comcast.net (Jerry Oliver) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:52:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bellevue WA ABFM In-Reply-To: <20070722005804.327D2187A45@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001701c7cc02$f382b960$91f4e347@D4K5DS91> Hello TR listers going to ABFM: I'll be at the Bellevue WA ABFM on Saturday July 28th. Maybe some of you remember my BRG/Tan 1966 TR4A I had there a while back (2000 VTR). It's gone to a new owner now (choke, sob), but I'll be at the show in my 1958 Jaguar XK150 OTS (red/tan). Stop by and say hello if you have a chance. Jerry Oliver Olympia, WA S830079 - 1958 XK150 OTS S830318 - 1958 XK150 OTS S836996DN - 1961 XK150 FHC UE1S24964 - 1974 V12 OTS CT54404L - 1966 Triumph TR4A -----Original Message----- From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jul 21 20:07:55 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 19:07:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <20070722005804.327D2187A45@autox.team.net> References: <000901c7cbfa$2f253aa0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <20070722005804.327D2187A45@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001a01c7cc05$1e5c3290$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Bill, That is precisely the procedure that I proposed. However, I did mention that you ought to keep one wheel from spinning so that you remove the differential effect. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 5:58 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] high engine rpm Jack it up, put a chalk mark on the d/s and the wheel and turn the shaft by hand, counting revs, until the wheel goes around once. Not too tought, is it? Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 L(O) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 6:50 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] high engine rpm Well, It would appear to be that way , but there is no way at all to know how many revolutions the drive shaft is turning and thus measure the ratio. To be able to determine the ratio without disassembling the diff, you have to set up a controlled situation. That is what I was describing. (Apples and oranges) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J. Bradakis Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 5:28 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] high engine rpm > That situation is a whole different issue. In my scenario, I have one wheel set so that it does > not turn at all. Actually what he describes is *exactly* the same - the wheel on dry pavement does not turn at all - all the torque goes to the wheel on the ice that offers no resistance. mjb. _______________________________________________ spitlist at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.11/909 - Release Date: 7/20/2007 4:39 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.11/909 - Release Date: 7/20/2007 4:39 PM From adcronin at ameritech.net Sat Jul 21 20:54:56 2007 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 19:54:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <751720.65922.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> James---Does the list really need to know this???!!! Perhaps you need to make an adjustment on your automatic email router?? James.Olson at Kofc.Org wrote: I will be out of the office starting 07/20/2007 and will not return until 07/23/2007. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message and any attachments may contain confidential, proprietary or legally privileged information and is intended only for the use of the addressee or addressees named above for its intended purpose. If you are not the intended recipient of this message, this message constitutes notice that any review, retransmission, distribution, copying or other use or taking any action in reliance on the information in this message and its attachments, is prohibited. If you receive this communication in error, please immediately advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete this message and its attachments from your system without keeping a copy. Unless expressly stated in this e-mail, nothing in this message may be construed as a digital or electronic signature. Thank you. _______________________________________________ adcronin at ameritech.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 From joemato at sbcglobal.net Sat Jul 21 21:16:19 2007 From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 20:16:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 caged nuts Message-ID: <676827.25975.qm@web83507.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I checked with TRF and they have packs John put together with all the required parts for $7.50 part # RFK 901. Thanks, Scott From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu Sat Jul 21 21:24:50 2007 From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 23:24:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 in Brevard, NC Message-ID: Coming down from the Blue Ridge Parkway through Pisgah National Forest to Brevard, NC this afternoon I saw a beautiful red TR3 with a handsome smiling couple aboard. Anyone from the list? Tim Gaines 1974 TR6 1980 Spitfire From steven at newellboys.com Sat Jul 21 22:37:43 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 21:37:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 in Brevard, NC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46A2DF17.1000708@newellboys.com> Tim Gaines wrote: >Coming down from the Blue Ridge Parkway through Pisgah >National Forest to Brevard, NC this afternoon I saw a >beautiful red TR3 with a handsome smiling couple aboard. > Anyone from the list? > That sure sounds like Pam and me, but we drive a black TR4 and were in Colorado. Strange. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 etc. From ashleys at es.co.nz Sun Jul 22 01:29:29 2007 From: ashleys at es.co.nz (William Ashley Southgate) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:29:29 +1200 Subject: [TR] RE National TR Weekend at Malvern Worcester UK. References: <981035.38058.qm@web57805.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001401c7cc32$0aac8ce0$45d6adcb@customerr1g0ss> Hi! I was wondering if the weekend missed the bad weather that we have just seen on TV. I think they have had a wet weekend for the last few years.I attended the 2004 weekend which was wet some of the weekend. Ashley. From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Sun Jul 22 01:55:55 2007 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Rarebits) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 08:55:55 +0100 Subject: [TR] RE National TR Weekend at Malvern Worcester UK. In-Reply-To: <001401c7cc32$0aac8ce0$45d6adcb@customerr1g0ss> Message-ID: <20070722074749.995D81879D6@autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of William Ashley Southgate > > Hi! I was wondering if the weekend missed the bad weather that we have > just seen on TV. No, Malvern is bang in the middle of the flooding! We were supposed to be trading there over the weekend, Malvern is about 1.5 hours drive away from here. We set off at 6:30am yesterday and found all roads approaching Malvern were closed. We got within 5 miles of the event along several different routes, but no luck getting through. Around 11:30 we heard from a friend the event was officially cancelled, so we turned around to head for home. We got back just after 4:00pm.... the roads were complete carnage! We have subsequently heard that the event is back on, some people on the TR Register forum managed to find a single passable route into Malvern. While I appreciate putting a brave face on for those who are already there, I am not impressed that the organisers are still actively encouraging people to try and attend, given the emergency situation in the area. There were several occasions yesterday where we nearly became stranded in our van, a TR would have no chance of getting through safely. Maybe the roads are better this morning, but having seen the situation yesterday it is an area I would want to keep away from for several days at least. Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From CP25616 at aol.com Sun Jul 22 04:10:23 2007 From: CP25616 at aol.com (CP25616 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 06:10:23 EDT Subject: [TR] RE National TR Weekend at Malvern Worcester UK. Message-ID: In a message dated 22/07/2007 08:48:40 GMT Standard Time, bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk writes: No, Malvern is bang in the middle of the flooding! We were supposed to be trading there over the weekend, Malvern is about 1.5 hours drive away from here. We set off at 6:30am yesterday and found all roads approaching Malvern were closed. We got within 5 miles of the event along several different routes, but no luck getting through. Around 11:30 we heard from a friend the event was officially cancelled, so we turned around to head for home. We got back just after 4:00pm.... the roads were complete carnage! We have subsequently heard that the event is back on, some people on the TR Register forum managed to find a single passable route into Malvern. While I appreciate putting a brave face on for those who are already there, I am not impressed that the organisers are still actively encouraging people to try and attend, given the emergency situation in the area. There were several occasions yesterday where we nearly became stranded in our van, a TR would have no chance of getting through safely. Maybe the roads are better this morning, but having seen the situation yesterday it is an area I would want to keep away from for several days at least. Cheers, Have to agree wholeheartedly with Bill, it was a shambles. I had a 240 mile trip down with my TR5 prototype X755 which had been lovingly restored over 5 years and to say friday was chaotic would be the understatement of the year. I, and my cousin Derek in his TR6, got to within 8 miles of Malvern and all roads into Malvern were under water and remained that way for most of Saturday. My 5 had to go through two small lakes on the road to Worcester and the second was so deep it actually entered the car--nightmare!! Soaking wet everything including my good lady, not amused at all. at least I tried though. It was after 9 o'clock at night when we found a place to stay and after using common sense on the Satuday morning both Derek and myself went home. However there will be other people out there with far greater tales of hardship and trouble than mine so musn't grumble I guess. Act of God?? Well I reckon God is not in the TR Register !!!!! However before next year lets see if he wants to join? Alan Graham X755 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jul 22 05:24:54 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 07:24:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump Message-ID: <000601c7cc52$ee8dbf40$210110ac@bobspc> Just curious...... I ran into a few people at VTR who were running alloy water pumps. I did a quick Google but can't find any. So, who sells them and what are the advantages? One guy installed an alloy pump and the output was so great that it blew out his stock radiator! Good thing he had a Wizard Cooling Aluminum radiator on hand! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.12/910 - Release Date: 7/21/2007 3:52 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jul 22 05:27:47 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 07:27:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings Message-ID: <000701c7cc53$55a1d6d0$210110ac@bobspc> Well, Jeanne and I are back home after covering 658 miles going to, attending and driving home from VTR. The car never missed a beat, got 27 mpg at 65 mph with my 4 speed, burned or leaked a smidge of oil, oil pressure hovered at 55 - 60 lbs and the temp gauge stayed a tick under 1/2 with no mechanical fan and the electric fan not running. The only time I needed the fan on was when I wasn't moving, so dump those mechanical fans and gain some free horsepower! There were lots of Listers in attendance and it was great to see some old faces as well as to put some new faces to old names. At the risk of forgetting someone, I'll leave it at there were at least 15 - 20 of us. I will mention one....Fred Thomas...got special recognition at the awards banquet by receiving an award that recognizes "use of your Triumph" and by putting well over 100,000 miles on it over the years as he attends event after event. It was either the Richardson or McCartney (sp?) award. Someone help me out here. Even though Joe Curry wasn't in attendance, his website (with the Spit database) won an award along with the site of some other guy named Danielson :-) All told, 4 individual sites were recognized as were 4 Chapter sites. The Delaware Valley Triumph folks did a spectacular job hosting and filling VTR with great driving events. Everything from the fun rally's to the auto cross to the concurs and wrapping up with a Mummers String Band at the awards banquet was perfect. They even managed to keep most of the rain off of us during the various events. Great to be home. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.12/910 - Release Date: 7/21/2007 3:52 PM From odd at triumphclub.se Sun Jul 22 05:46:20 2007 From: odd at triumphclub.se (Odd Hedberg) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 13:46:20 +0200 Subject: [TR] National TR Weekend at Malvern Worcester UK. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <005501c7cc55$ebe7c530$c700a8c0@DATOR01> Wasn't it the same with the TR Drivers National Weekend at Billing? A total wash out... And how about the TSSC International Weekend in Stafford? You Brits should have scheduled these meets for Greece this year... ;-) 35+ Celsius and not a cloud in sight - for most of the summer... /Odd -----Original Message----- RE: National TR Weekend at Malvern Worcester UK. (William A Southgate) > > Hi! > > I was wondering if the weekend missed the bad weather that we > > have just seen on TV. > > No, Malvern is bang in the middle of the flooding! From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Sun Jul 22 06:00:29 2007 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Rarebits) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 13:00:29 +0100 Subject: [TR] National TR Weekend at Malvern Worcester UK. In-Reply-To: <005501c7cc55$ebe7c530$c700a8c0@DATOR01> Message-ID: <20070722115223.B276D1879F2@autox.team.net> > Odd Hedberg > > Wasn't it the same with the TR Drivers National Weekend at > Billing? A total wash out... > > And how about the TSSC International Weekend in Stafford? I can't comment on the TR Drivers National, but the TSSC International was blessed with very good weather all weekend. Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Jul 22 06:41:51 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 08:41:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] When to change rubber bushings Message-ID: <003d01c7cc5d$ae27b090$6502a8c0@p4server> Jerry, I wonder if you, or anyone else on this list, have the expertise, interest, and time to offer some help to our suppliers when they arrange to have "rubber" parts made. Maybe it is only important when we see certain parts failing prematurely (like steering rack boots). I have heard (Nth hand) that the VTR is considering how to have a centralized (I.E. VTR based) reproduction parts advisor. This would be similar to what some of the Clubs in the UK do. I would assume that the VTR committee would be working hand-in-hand with the UK-based committees to have a world-wide unified source of design info for use by manufacturers and suppliers. -Tony From gprtech at frontiernet.net Sun Jul 22 06:46:04 2007 From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 08:46:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. In-Reply-To: <751720.65922.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <751720.65922.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <46A3518C.7010404@frontiernet.net> Oh give Jimmy a break. He probably had to leave suddenly with Clark and Lois to cover Lex Luthor's latest attempt to take over the world. George Richardson 1957 Triumph TR3 - TS15559L http://www.key-men.com/triumph 1975 Triumph TR6 - Undergoing restoration 1972 Triumph Stag - Daily Driver Key Men: Keys for Classics - http://www.key-men.com A Daniel Cronin wrote: >James---Does the list really need to know this???!!! Perhaps you need to make an adjustment on your automatic email router?? > > >James.Olson at Kofc.Org wrote: > I will be out of the office starting 07/20/2007 and will not return until >07/23/2007. > > > > >CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message and any attachments may contain confidential, proprietary or legally privileged information and is intended only for the use of the addressee or addressees named above for its intended purpose. If you are not the intended recipient of this message, this message constitutes notice that any review, retransmission, distribution, copying or other use or taking any action in reliance on the information in this message and its attachments, is prohibited. If you receive this communication in error, please immediately advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete this message and its attachments from your system without keeping a copy. Unless expressly stated in this e-mail, nothing in this message may be construed as a digital or electronic signature. Thank you. >_______________________________________________ >adcronin at ameritech.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > >Planning & Development Services >A. Daniel Cronin >248 761-2673 >_______________________________________________ >gprtech at frontiernet.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From bsavar at wwwcomm.com Sun Jul 22 06:58:38 2007 From: bsavar at wwwcomm.com (Bob Savar) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 08:58:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. In-Reply-To: <46A3518C.7010404@frontiernet.net> References: <751720.65922.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <46A3518C.7010404@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <46A3547E.5010204@wwwcomm.com> Please unsubscribe me! George Richardson wrote: > Oh give Jimmy a break. He probably had to leave suddenly with Clark and > Lois to cover Lex Luthor's latest attempt to take over the world. > > George Richardson > 1957 Triumph TR3 - TS15559L http://www.key-men.com/triumph > 1975 Triumph TR6 - Undergoing restoration > 1972 Triumph Stag - Daily Driver > Key Men: Keys for Classics - http://www.key-men.com > > > > A Daniel Cronin wrote: > > >> James---Does the list really need to know this???!!! Perhaps you need to make an adjustment on your automatic email router?? >> >> >> James.Olson at Kofc.Org wrote: >> I will be out of the office starting 07/20/2007 and will not return until >> 07/23/2007. >> >> >> >> >> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message and any attachments may contain confidential, proprietary or legally privileged information and is intended only for the use of the addressee or addressees named above for its intended purpose. If you are not the intended recipient of this message, this message constitutes notice that any review, retransmission, distribution, copying or other use or taking any action in reliance on the information in this message and its attachments, is prohibited. If you receive this communication in error, please immediately advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete this message and its attachments from your system without keeping a copy. Unless expressly stated in this e-mail, nothing in this message may be construed as a digital or electronic signature. Thank you. >> _______________________________________________ >> adcronin at ameritech.net >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> Triumphs mailing list >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> >> >> Planning & Development Services >> A. Daniel Cronin >> 248 761-2673 >> _______________________________________________ >> gprtech at frontiernet.net >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> Triumphs mailing list >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> > _______________________________________________ > bsavar at wwwcomm.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > -- Bob Savar, President URL: World Wide Web Communications, Inc. E-mail: bsavar at wwwcomm.com 1060 N. Kings Hwy., Suite 220 * Cherry Hill, NJ 08034 Tel 856-482-2424 x11 * Fax 856-482-9283 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ World Wide Web Communications is an Internet Solutions Provider specializing in website design and hosting, database integration, e-commerce, SharePoint collaboration, department Workflow, Business Intelligence, custom web-based applications, Web services and online marketing./ / From jerryvv at adelphia.net Sun Jul 22 07:41:18 2007 From: jerryvv at adelphia.net (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:41:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] When to change rubber bushings References: <003d01c7cc5d$ae27b090$6502a8c0@p4server> Message-ID: <008701c7cc65$fb922290$6401a8c0@toshibauser> Tony and others, I was in Senior Management and came up via the Sales and Marketing organizations. I am by no means a rubber compounder (usually chemists) or an engineer. My knowledge is limited to identifying the need for development and having the right folks in my organization assigned to the task and making certain that we met the various technical requirements identified by our customer. As it relates to rubber parts I could be helpful if the original drawings were available and the material specifications were detailed on the drawings. Rubber material specifications can be detailed in many ways. The best is what we referred to as a Line Call Out which was a method of detailing the various performance characteristics required of the compound and the parameters that the compound must meet. In the absence of a Line Call Out those same parameters can show up as a table on a drawing or in the various drawing notes. Unfortunately many times material is spec'ed out as it must meet specification xxxx dated xx-xx-xx which is located in some manual or book of specifications. Worse yet would be that the drawing says the material is to be Company x's compound # xxxx. I suspect that if the original drawings are still available the material specifications are not. That being the case the material is then left to the overseas supplier to decide and we have our problems that are the topic of this discussion. As it relates to the steering rack boots my guess is that the suppliers are not using a compound with sufficient plastisizers in the compound and as a result the elongation is less than needed to expand the boot during installation. They will fail every time. I suppose that my help would be better than none at all but my guess is that there are better qualified folks in this group than me when it comes to rubber components. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: Anthony Rhodes To: Triumphs List ; jerryvv at adelphia.net Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 8:41 AM Subject: Re: [TR] When to change rubber bushings Jerry, I wonder if you, or anyone else on this list, have the expertise, interest, and time to offer some help to our suppliers when they arrange to have "rubber" parts made. Maybe it is only important when we see certain parts failing prematurely (like steering rack boots). I have heard (Nth hand) that the VTR is considering how to have a centralized (I.E. VTR based) reproduction parts advisor. This would be similar to what some of the Clubs in the UK do. I would assume that the VTR committee would be working hand-in-hand with the UK-based committees to have a world-wide unified source of design info for use by manufacturers and suppliers. -Tony ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.12/910 - Release Date: 7/21/2007 3:52 PM From kentshrack at yahoo.com Sun Jul 22 07:42:21 2007 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 06:42:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 in Brevard, NC In-Reply-To: <46A2DF17.1000708@newellboys.com> Message-ID: <623984.33599.qm@web57802.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I am in hopes that my Denver job will be starting around August 23rd, so I will be out there maybe about once a month. Hope to look you up then, and the other half of the "hansome couple". We've been driving the 3 off and on,,, Running good but I need to take the top of the trany off and get it working smoothly. Kent Steven Newell wrote: Tim Gaines wrote: >Coming down from the Blue Ridge Parkway through Pisgah >National Forest to Brevard, NC this afternoon I saw a >beautiful red TR3 with a handsome smiling couple aboard. > Anyone from the list? > That sure sounds like Pam and me, but we drive a black TR4 and were in Colorado. Strange. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 etc. _______________________________________________ kentshrack at yahoo.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs --------------------------------- Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. From CP25616 at aol.com Sun Jul 22 07:42:36 2007 From: CP25616 at aol.com (CP25616 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:42:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump Message-ID: In a message dated 22/07/2007 12:25:18 GMT Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Just curious...... I ran into a few people at VTR who were running alloy water pumps. I did a quick Google but can't find any. So, who sells them and what are the advantages? One guy installed an alloy pump and the output was so great that it blew out his stock radiator! Good thing he had a Wizard Cooling Aluminum radiator on hand! Hi Bob Racetorations in the UK do alloy water pumps and you will find all details through Google. Hope this helps Alan Bonnie Scotland From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Sun Jul 22 09:16:06 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:16:06 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A In-Reply-To: <826629.33322.qm@web27410.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20070722151606.64131.qmail@web27413.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hi again listers, Thanks for the feedback. I have checked the HT leads resistance and changed the condenser but still the 'misfire'seemingly now through the whole range of revs. When I got home I removed HT leads in turn and found that removing the lead from number 3 cylinder made the least difference to the idle. I then checked all plugs and found No 3 to be 'sooty' while all the others were clean burnt light grey colour. Any ideas for further checks? TIA Chris Buckley Chris Buckley wrote: Hi List, I know this kind of problem has been discussed at length before but as it wasn't one of mine I never took much notice. The engine seems to be fine up to around 3000 rpm after which I can feel the hesitation which remains or maybe gets worse the higher the revs. I dont think it is shortage of fuel as it is too predictable so I assume it is connected with timing or an electrical problem. Does anyone on the the list have some kind of check list to go through otherwise any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chris Buckley --------------------------------- Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Tryit now. _______________________________________________ chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs --------------------------------- Yahoo! Mail is the world's favourite email. Don't settle for less, sign up for your freeaccount today. From dkspence at telus.net Sun Jul 22 09:38:01 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:38:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office - irony In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7E0233E1-68AD-421A-A79B-44F16C3EC3BE@telus.net> On Jul 22, 2007, at 7:43 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Just an observation but... I find it truly fascinating that the > president of " an Internet Solutions Provider specializing in > website design and hosting, database integration, e-commerce, > SharePoint collaboration, department Workflow, Business > Intelligence, custom web-based applications, Web services and > online marketing" can't figure out how to unsubscribe himself from > a simple mailing list. > From: Bob Savar > Date: July 22, 2007 6:58:38 AM MDT (CA) > To: gprtech at frontiernet.net, Triumph Sports car discussion > > Subject: Re: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. > Reply-To: Triumph Sports car discussion > > Please unsubscribe me! >>> >> bsavar at wwwcomm.com >> > > Bob Savar, President > URL: World Wide Web Communications, Inc. > E-mail: bsavar at wwwcomm.com > 1060 N. Kings Hwy., Suite 220 * Cherry > Hill, NJ 08034 > Tel 856-482-2424 x11 * Fax 856-482-9283 > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > > World Wide Web Communications is an Internet Solutions Provider > specializing in website design and hosting, database integration, e- > commerce, SharePoint collaboration, department Workflow, Business > Intelligence, custom web-based applications, Web services and > online marketing./ / From 308gtsi at adelphia.net Sun Jul 22 10:03:30 2007 From: 308gtsi at adelphia.net (Brian Induni) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:03:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Door adjustment Message-ID: <016601c7cc79$d9b3d920$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Hello all, I'm finally re-assembling my TR4a after being apart for 30 years, and was looking for some tips on hanging the doors. I understand which bolts to loosen to adjust vertical and in-out, but it's nearly impossible to open the door, loosen, move, tighten, and close the door to check if you've made the correct adjustment! Any help, tips, suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Brian 1967 TR4a From jmitch at snet.net Sun Jul 22 10:09:31 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 12:09:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Door adjustment In-Reply-To: <016601c7cc79$d9b3d920$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> References: <016601c7cc79$d9b3d920$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <46A3813B.8040901@snet.net> Hi Brian, I used a floor jack with a 2X4 on the saddle to support the back end of the door while I fiddled with adjustment. It really is trial and error and it's not a fast and easy job. It took me at least 4 hours per door, mostly because I'm a perfectionist.(not a good thing to be with a Triumph:). John Mitchell 76 TR6 Brian Induni wrote: > Hello all, > > > > I'm finally re-assembling my TR4a after being apart for 30 years, and was > looking for some tips on hanging the doors. I understand which bolts to > loosen to adjust vertical and in-out, but it's nearly impossible to open the > door, loosen, move, tighten, and close the door to check if you've made the > correct adjustment! Any help, tips, suggestions would be greatly > appreciated. > > > > Brian > > 1967 TR4a > _______________________________________________ > jmitch at snet.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From soknacki at soknacki.com Sun Jul 22 10:46:50 2007 From: soknacki at soknacki.com (David Soknacki) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 12:46:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 battery and alternator problem Message-ID: <000701c7cc7f$e6bf5440$0d02a8c0@Ecom.local> Fm David Soknacki 74 TR6 CF22072U 1. During the upcoming week I plan to replace my battery and alternator, and am writing to ask if these are the right steps to take. Also I'm interested in recommendations for selecting an alternator. 2. For weeks I've had intermittent electrical problems a) the battery started to bubble acid out its vents. What a mess: paint, chrome, and hoses now all need attention. (I keep the acid covering the plates, and at the bottom of the split rings) b) over this summer there were a couple of times when the battery seemed unable to start the engine. About a month ago I brought the battery (bought 28 months ago) to the retailer who ran diagnostics on it. He said the battery was fine, but needed charging which he did c) yesterday the battery has discharged so that it is no longer able to turn the starting motor. The radio settings were reset as well. 3. My non-LBC mechanic figures it might be the voltage regulator. He tested the car at 2 000 rpm, and the voltage was about 14.3v. According to Bentley the control voltage is 14 volts, but I don't know if this difference is a problem. 4. I'd appreciate the wisdom of the list a) should I just get a voltage regulator? or do I replace the entire alternator? b) or do I replace both alternator and battery since the battery could be so abused that it probably needs replacement? c) or is the problem something else? 5. The alternator now installed is by Lucas - I suspect it is a 17ACR, although I cannot find the number. If I decide to replace the alternator, do list members recommend replacing it with the same item? The Buckeye Club site suggests that a good alternate is the high amp Bosch alternator used for the Ford Fiesta and VW Rabbit. 6. I realize there many listers have great talent and good access to LBC parts. But here in Canada our summers are short, and getting a voltage regulator from one of our LBC suppliers will take about two weeks. My preference would be to spend a little extra and so be able to use my TR6 sooner. Thanks so much From mark at nashvilletn.org Sun Jul 22 11:35:30 2007 From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 12:35:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 battery and alternator problem References: <000701c7cc7f$e6bf5440$0d02a8c0@Ecom.local> Message-ID: <004201c7cc86$b3c49f80$0600a8c0@Dell9200> David, 14.3 is fine for the alternator output, if you battery boiled over the voltage would have to be much higher than 14.3. But if you had a shorted cell in your battery 14.3 would cause it boil. Despite the test, I would replace the battery first and then carefully monitor the voltage and make sure it never goes above about 14.5 to15 volts. If there is no load on the battery with everything turned off it should not go dead, again pointing to a bad battery. Mark Nashville http://www.arrestmered.com Fm David Soknacki 74 TR6 CF22072U 1. During the upcoming week I plan to replace my battery and alternator, and am writing to ask if these are the right steps to take. Also I'm interested in recommendations for selecting an alternator. 2. For weeks I've had intermittent electrical problems a) the battery started to bubble acid out its vents. What a mess: paint, chrome, and hoses now all need attention. (I keep the acid covering the plates, and at the bottom of the split rings) b) over this summer there were a couple of times when the battery seemed unable to start the engine. About a month ago I brought the battery (bought 28 months ago) to the retailer who ran diagnostics on it. He said the battery was fine, but needed charging which he did c) yesterday the battery has discharged so that it is no longer able to turn the starting motor. The radio settings were reset as well. 3. My non-LBC mechanic figures it might be the voltage regulator. He tested the car at 2 000 rpm, and the voltage was about 14.3v. According to Bentley the control voltage is 14 volts, but I don't know if this difference is a problem. 4. I'd appreciate the wisdom of the list a) should I just get a voltage regulator? or do I replace the entire alternator? b) or do I replace both alternator and battery since the battery could be so abused that it probably needs replacement? c) or is the problem something else? 5. The alternator now installed is by Lucas - I suspect it is a 17ACR, although I cannot find the number. If I decide to replace the alternator, do list members recommend replacing it with the same item? The Buckeye Club site suggests that a good alternate is the high amp Bosch alternator used for the Ford Fiesta and VW Rabbit. 6. I realize there many listers have great talent and good access to LBC parts. But here in Canada our summers are short, and getting a voltage regulator from one of our LBC suppliers will take about two weeks. My preference would be to spend a little extra and so be able to use my TR6 sooner. Thanks so much From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Jul 22 12:10:57 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 14:10:57 EDT Subject: [TR] FT wins the VTR CMDA Message-ID: In a message dated 7/21/2007 3:38:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Fred Thomas...got special recognition at the awards banquet by receiving an award that recognizes "use of your Triumph" and by putting well over 100,000 miles on it over the years as he attends event after event. It was either the Richardson or McCartney (sp?) award. Someone help me out here. Bob, I can help you here. FT was awarded the Charles Macartney Driver Award. A Special VTR Award that was born on this very List a few years ago. It is intended to recognize a member of VTR who drives their Triumph whilst maintaining it in immaculate condition. Jonmac wrote the guidelines for me in honor of his father Charles. Fred and his 1960 Signal Red TR3A meet them to a T. This award comes from the Participants Choice field of Triumphs at the annual VTR North American Triumph Challenge recently competed in Valley Forge, PA, USA. Fred, I love you Man! There could be no more of a deserving winner. You are my hero and it was a great pleasure to award you in this way. If I have it right you told me you have driven your 3A 149,400 miles since restoration 16 years ago. The way I view your Triumph it could still be entered in Concours and do rather well. Also I must thank you for serving VTR as a TR3A Concours Judge too. John is going to want to see pictures of your car. Can you send us some? Best Regards, Darrell Floyd VTR Chief Judge ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From AMfoto1 at aol.com Sun Jul 22 12:34:32 2007 From: AMfoto1 at aol.com (AMfoto1 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 14:34:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump Message-ID: Hi Bob, In the U.S., check with Ken at _www.britishframeandengine.com_ (http://www.britishframeandengine.com) . He sold me an alloy pump for my car (TR4) and imports a number of Triumph performance products from Darryl Uprichard at Racetorations and from other sources. I think he also offers an alloy pump for TR6. Last I heard Ken is still pretty active in Triumph vintage racing, although he's not driving anymore. For that reason, best time to reach him during race season is usually Monday through Thursday. BTW, I see that clicking on his email link on his homepage *still* generates an incorrect address. His email is correctly stated there as _bfeken at copper.net_ (mailto:bfeken at copper.net) , but clicking on the link will pop up an incorrect _bfeken at copper.com_ (mailto:bfeken at copper.com) . I think it works correctly everywhere else on his site. Ken loves to talk Triumphs, so if you call instead, be sure you have plenty of minutes available on your phone plan! ;-) The alloy pump I got from him (and Racetorations) has a high performance impellor with six curved blades and is better made than many of the less expensive rebuilds/repros I've seen in recent years. For one thing, it was very neatly machined so that the pulley couldn't possibly rub against the housing, which is an all too common problem on other TR2/3/4 repro pumps. I've had no experience with TR6 pumps, so can only assume they are as nicely set up. In the TR2/3/4 version, besides some weight reduction, the pumps will move more coolant and are much less prone to cavitation at high rpms. For TR2/3/4, there is also a pump housing available in aluminum, for weight further reduction and perhaps a little more heat transfer, along with alu pulley's offered as part of either thin-belt/alternator conversions or in standard widths. Of course, things are set up quite a bit differently on your car, so what's available or necessary will vary from the 4 cyl. cars. I'd say the person whose rad went South was due for a new one anyway! The radiator in my TR4 was rebuilt a few years ago... but I'd still like to go to alu eventually. I'd suggest anyone pressure test their rad along with all the rest of the coolant circuit before installing a high performance water pump. One alternative I've noticed - at least for TR2/3/4 - is an electric water pump being offered by Neil at Revington TR in the UK (_www.revingtontr.com_ (http://www.revingtontr.com) ). I haven't had any experience with it, but at least in theory it should free up a few horsepower and might be set up with a thermostat to cycle on and off as needed. Cheers! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. '62 TR4 CT17602L _http://www.triumphowners.com/640_ (http://www.triumphowners.com/640) ****************************************************************************** ***** Just curious...... I ran into a few people at VTR who were running alloy water pumps. I did a quick Google but can't find any. So, who sells them and what are the advantages? One guy installed an alloy pump and the output was so great that it blew out his stock radiator! Good thing he had a Wizard Cooling Aluminum radiator on hand! ****************************************************************************** ****** ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jul 22 13:02:22 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 15:02:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] FT wins the VTR CMDA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c7cc92$d6bbec80$210110ac@bobspc> Thanks Darrell.....you guys ran a great show! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 2:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] FT wins the VTR CMDA In a message dated 7/21/2007 3:38:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Fred Thomas...got special recognition at the awards banquet by receiving an award that recognizes "use of your Triumph" and by putting well over 100,000 miles on it over the years as he attends event after event. It was either the Richardson or McCartney (sp?) award. Someone help me out here. Bob, I can help you here. FT was awarded the Charles Macartney Driver Award. A Special VTR Award that was born on this very List a few years ago. It is intended to recognize a member of VTR who drives their Triumph whilst maintaining it in immaculate condition. Jonmac wrote the guidelines for me in honor of his father Charles. Fred and his 1960 Signal Red TR3A meet them to a T. This award comes from the Participants Choice field of Triumphs at the annual VTR North American Triumph Challenge recently competed in Valley Forge, PA, USA. Fred, I love you Man! There could be no more of a deserving winner. You are my hero and it was a great pleasure to award you in this way. If I have it right you told me you have driven your 3A 149,400 miles since restoration 16 years ago. The way I view your Triumph it could still be entered in Concours and do rather well. Also I must thank you for serving VTR as a TR3A Concours Judge too. John is going to want to see pictures of your car. Can you send us some? Best Regards, Darrell Floyd VTR Chief Judge ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.12/910 - Release Date: 7/21/2007 3:52 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.12/910 - Release Date: 7/21/2007 3:52 PM From CarlSereda at aol.com Sun Jul 22 13:58:13 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 15:58:13 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 battery and alternator problem Message-ID: David, My car battery showed similar symptoms.. about once a week barely able to turn over - otherwise just fine. Seemed worse with hot weather or warmed car. This behaviour went on for 4 months. I thought I had a flat spot on starter! My alternator is 2 years old. The battery 'diagnosed' fine at the local parts house free battery tester/charger but after checking out OK it started to charge it - after 5 minutes of charging, it started boiling over. Lethal sign for a battery. Got new battery - problem totally resolved. You might get a prorated refund on your failing young battery - my T-Bird's battery (Motorcraft) was 10 1/2 years old.. since it still holds a good charge it's now relegated to my workshop for testing TR horns, electrics, etc. Regards, Carl '63 TR4since '74 b) over this summer there were a couple of times when the battery seemed unable to start the engine. About a month ago I brought the battery (bought 28 months ago) to the retailer who ran diagnostics on it. He said the battery was fine, but needed charging which he did


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Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jul 22 23:08:24 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 23:08:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <001a01c7cc05$1e5c3290$2202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <000901c7cbfa$2f253aa0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <20070722005804.327D2187A45@autox.team.net> <001a01c7cc05$1e5c3290$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <46A437C8.4030308@bradakis.com> > I did mention >that you ought to keep one wheel from spinning so that you remove the >differential effect. > > Sheesh. If both axles turn together at the same rate, so there is no difference in their movement relative to each other, then there is no differential effect. If you hold one wheel stationary and turn the other, so that there is a difference in their movement, you get a differential effect. Holding one axle stationary and moving the other axle one revolution will cause the central carrier to turn one half revolution relative to the axle that stayed put and one half revolution relative to the axle that turned. I guess I'll have to either dig up some web video of how this works, or make one myself. Of course, this isn't nearly so complicated as figuring out how to edit ones replies to NOT include a bunch of useless, irrelevant verbiage in a response. mjb. From spitlist at cox.net Sun Jul 22 23:54:21 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 22:54:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <46A437C8.4030308@bradakis.com> References: <000901c7cbfa$2f253aa0$2202a8c0@newcomputer><20070722005804.327D2187A45@autox.team.net><001a01c7cc05$1e5c3290$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <46A437C8.4030308@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000901c7cced$ea9335a0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Mark, I am pretty sure that if you do not secure one wheel, one will spin backward relative to the other with an open diff. Don't ask me to explain it but that is what I have noticed when I tried it. I am going to have the Red Mk1 off the ground this week to adjust the rear shocks and when I have it in the air, I am going to give it a try to see if I remember it correctly or if I am actually going crazy. I will report back to reveal if I am beaming with success or have egg on my face. Joe Oh, I did want to say that since you have changed list software, I am very disappointed. The one thing I liked about Majordomo is that it did not default replies to the list server and broadcast the reply to the entire list (like Yahoo does). Now I have to go to special effort if I want to send a personal private reply. Makes more work (Like editing text out of replies) -----Original Message----- Sheesh. If both axles turn together at the same rate, so there is no difference in their movement relative to each other, then there is no differential effect. If you hold one wheel stationary and turn the other, so that there is a difference in their movement, you get a differential effect. Holding one axle stationary and moving the other axle one revolution will cause the central carrier to turn one half revolution relative to the axle that stayed put and one half revolution relative to the axle that turned. I guess I'll have to either dig up some web video of how this works, or make one myself. Of course, this isn't nearly so complicated as figuring out how to edit ones replies to NOT include a bunch of useless, irrelevant verbiage in a response. mjb. _______________________________________________ From cak at dimebank.com Mon Jul 23 00:34:00 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 23:34:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A Message-ID: <200707230634.l6N6Y0lK026998@moose.dimebank.com> > I then checked all plugs and found No 3 to be 'sooty' while all the others > were clean burnt light grey colour. Are you using the stock manifold with PCV valve intact? If so, then the #3 is where the oil blowby will be deposited, causing soot and eventually wet fouling. You can, for a while, help the problem by running a hotter plug in #3, but you should be planning and saving up for rings. From portermd at zianet.com Mon Jul 23 02:13:28 2007 From: portermd at zianet.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 02:13:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <000901c7cced$ea9335a0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <000901c7cbfa$2f253aa0$2202a8c0@newcomputer><20070722005804.327D2187A45@autox.team.net><001a01c7cc05$1e5c3290$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <46A437C8.4030308@bradakis.com> <000901c7cced$ea9335a0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <46A46328.7090906@zianet.com> Joe Curry wrote: > Mark, > I am pretty sure that if you do not secure one wheel, one will spin backward > relative to the other with an open diff. Don't ask me to explain it but > that is what I have noticed when I tried it. > > I am going to have the Red Mk1 off the ground this week to adjust the rear > shocks and when I have it in the air, I am going to give it a try to see if > I remember it correctly or if I am actually going crazy. > > I will report back to reveal if I am beaming with success or have egg on my > face. > > > Okay, I have just done what I should have done when this brouhaha began. I went out into my generally unnavigable, overstuffed garage, dragged the GT6 diff out from under the bench (the one with the cracked rear mount), which I know to be a 3.27:1, and applied vise grips to the right-hand axle flange, rotated the pinion input until the right-hand flange was well-fixed and immobile. Took up the lash, made witness marks on input, left flange and case. One rotation of the left flange made a little less than 1.7 turns of the input flange. Now, releasing the right flange and allowing it to turn with the same resistance as the left flange, each flange turns at the rate determined by ring and pinion ratio, which makes sense given that the spider shaft rotates at the same rate as the carrier, so the spider gears are static relative to the rate of rotation of the side gears, if the resistance to torque on both sides is equal. Sorry, Joe. A full floating diff makes twice the revs of a locked diff with one wheel fixed. I made the same mistake-brainfart when I advised the original poster privately. The simple fix, of course, is to jack up one side and count two revs of the wheel, or, jack up both sides and count one rev. The reason for it becomes obvious when one figures in both rotation of the spiders and the rotation of the carrier/spider shaft assembly. With one side gear fixed, the free side gear is being turned by the spiders rotating around the fixed side gear and the spiders rotating with the spider shaft as the spider shaft rotates with the carrier, so the rate of rotation of the free side gear has to be double the rate of carrier rotation alone. Easy to visualize when one compares both wheels turning to one wheel turning. When both side gears are free to move, the spiders don't rotate--one tooth set on each side engages the side gear and the spiders, side gears, spider shaft and carrier move as one unit. Lock up one side gear and the spider begins to rotate around the fixed side gear _and_ is turning with the spider shaft and carrier. Cheers. -- Michael D. Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Mon Jul 23 03:36:52 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 10:36:52 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A In-Reply-To: <200707230634.l6N6Y0lK026998@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <704002.36501.qm@web27406.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hi List, I am using stock manifold with PCV valve. The engine is not yet fully run in. I HOPE it doesn't need new rings already. If a new plug doesnt solve the problem, I will do a compression test. Chris Kantarjiev wrote: > I then checked all plugs and found No 3 to be 'sooty' while all the others > were clean burnt light grey colour. Are you using the stock manifold with PCV valve intact? If so, then the #3 is where the oil blowby will be deposited, causing soot and eventually wet fouling. You can, for a while, help the problem by running a hotter plug in #3, but you should be planning and saving up for rings. _______________________________________________ chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs --------------------------------- Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Tryit now. From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Jul 23 08:15:30 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 10:15:30 EDT Subject: [TR] MOTRAH 007 Video Available NFI Message-ID: FoT and Triumph Lists A sixty minute video (DVD) was professionally done of the SVRA Event in May at Road America. It includes interviews with Kas Kastner and John Sprinzel in addition to the MOTRAH-007 racing and autocrossing. If you have knowledge and interest of this event I recommend it. I am very familiar with John Seaman's work. $15 is the cost per DVD This is available through: John Seaman 456 Bluebird Ln. Sheboygan Falls, WI 53085 jcman at execpc.com John Seaman, Videographer 920 467 2076 Checks are accepted From spitlist at cox.net Mon Jul 23 08:47:03 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 07:47:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm References: <000901c7cbfa$2f253aa0$2202a8c0@newcomputer><20070722005804.327D2187A45@autox.team.net><001a01c7cc05$1e5c3290$2202a8c0@newcomputer><46A437C8.4030308@bradakis.com><000901c7cced$ea9335a0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <46A46328.7090906@zianet.com> Message-ID: <001401c7cd38$55ece680$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Thanks Michael! I stand corrected. But I am still gonna try it for myself because I am sure that I remember the wheels spinning opposite directions when they are both free. But maybe that happens when you turn one wheel not the drive shaft. I am obviously confused and need to sort this out for myself. Thanks Again for clarifying. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Porter" To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 1:13 AM Subject: Re: [TR] high engine rpm > Joe Curry wrote: > > Mark, > > I am pretty sure that if you do not secure one wheel, one will spin backward > > relative to the other with an open diff. Don't ask me to explain it but > > that is what I have noticed when I tried it. > > > > I am going to have the Red Mk1 off the ground this week to adjust the rear > > shocks and when I have it in the air, I am going to give it a try to see if > > I remember it correctly or if I am actually going crazy. > > > > I will report back to reveal if I am beaming with success or have egg on my > > face. > > > > > > > Okay, I have just done what I should have done when this brouhaha > began. I went out into my generally unnavigable, overstuffed garage, > dragged the GT6 diff out from under the bench (the one with the cracked > rear mount), which I know to be a 3.27:1, and applied vise grips to the > right-hand axle flange, rotated the pinion input until the right-hand > flange was well-fixed and immobile. Took up the lash, made witness marks > on input, left flange and case. One rotation of the left flange made a > little less than 1.7 turns of the input flange. > > Now, releasing the right flange and allowing it to turn with the same > resistance as the left flange, each flange turns at the rate determined > by ring and pinion ratio, which makes sense given that the spider shaft > rotates at the same rate as the carrier, so the spider gears are static > relative to the rate of rotation of the side gears, if the resistance to > torque on both sides is equal. > > Sorry, Joe. A full floating diff makes twice the revs of a locked diff > with one wheel fixed. I made the same mistake-brainfart when I advised > the original poster privately. The simple fix, of course, is to jack up > one side and count two revs of the wheel, or, jack up both sides and > count one rev. > > The reason for it becomes obvious when one figures in both rotation of > the spiders and the rotation of the carrier/spider shaft assembly. With > one side gear fixed, the free side gear is being turned by the spiders > rotating around the fixed side gear and the spiders rotating with the > spider shaft as the spider shaft rotates with the carrier, so the rate > of rotation of the free side gear has to be double the rate of carrier > rotation alone. Easy to visualize when one compares both wheels turning > to one wheel turning. When both side gears are free to move, the spiders > don't rotate--one tooth set on each side engages the side gear and the > spiders, side gears, spider shaft and carrier move as one unit. Lock up > one side gear and the spider begins to rotate around the fixed side gear > _and_ is turning with the spider shaft and carrier. > > > Cheers. > > -- > Michael D. Porter > Roswell, NM > > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... > _______________________________________________ > spitlist at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jmerone at rocketmail.com Mon Jul 23 09:26:18 2007 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 08:26:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] VTR - we're back too Message-ID: <975156.66264.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Although the plan was to stop somewhere along the journey, Kerri and I decided to drive all the way home on Saturday after being on the road for 10 days. We spent 12 total hours on the road that day, 8 of them with the wheels turning, and I probably could have pushed on if needed to. That was a first for us and distance driving in the TR6. Maybe it's just me, but the new 5-speed seemed to make all the difference in the fatigue factor. The total distance for our little trip was over 1100 miles, with the odometer turning over past 100K on the way home. I've got a brand new car! I'd like to add my kudos to all the Deleware Valley Triumph members who put on such a great VTR last week. The added little touches are always the ones that get remembered. It was also great to see and talk to list members (even for a brief time) who's I've swapped information, parts, and stories with over the years - mostly to my benefit. Joe Merone CF18928 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more. http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jul 23 09:28:22 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 15:28:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm Message-ID: <072320071528.29709.46A4C9160006AF0D0000740D22058863609D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: DLylis at aol.com > OK. let's imagine for a moment that we have a car with a 3.7:1 differential > and it is sitting with one wheel on dry pavement, and the other wheel is on > ice. You Northern guys ought to get this! Minnesota, born and bred. Been there, done that, known people who wrecked differentials. > You give it some gas in gear and > go nowhere. Are we saying that the ratio to the spinning wheel is not 3.7:1? Yes, we are saying that the ratio to the spinning wheel is not 3.7/1. If the left wheel is on the dry asphalt and not moving, and the right wheel is on the ice by the curb and is spinning, the ratio between the propeller shaft and the spinning wheel is 7.4/1 Let's further stipulate that the speedometer is attached to the transmission and is reading an accurate 20 MPH. The spinning wheel is turning at the same speed that it would turn if the car was going 40 MPH on drive pavement. (Let's not do this for too long. Our hypothetical spider gears are going crazy. and we are eventually going to toast the differential.) On your hypothetical car, whether on the straight, going round a curve, or with one wheel spinning; the AVERAGE of the ratios of each wheel to the propeller shaft must always be 3.7/1. To get back to the original question, how do you count the turns on a car with an open diff to determine the final drive ratio? Jack up only the right wheel so the left wheel does not turn. Mark a spot on the tire. Turn the tire a hundred times, while your buddy counts the number of times one of the four prop-shaft bolts goes by. He counts 54. 54 bolts divided by 4 bolts-per-revolution is 13.5 revolutions of the prop shaft. 100 right-wheel revolutions divided by 13.5 prop-shaft revolutions is 7.407407407. The diff ratio must always be the average of the two wheels. Left wheel is 0. Right wheel is 7.407407407. Average of these two is 3.703703704. (Looking at another way, you could use 50 instead of 100 to calculate the ratio, since when you turned the right wheel 100 times, the average of the two wheels would be 50. 50 / 13.5 = 3.703703704.) You look in the factory data and see that there is a factory ratio of 3.7/1. This is most likely the diff gears you have in this car. If the same car had a welded diff, (or a good stiff clutch-pack limited-slip) you would need to get both wheels off the ground, or you could not turn the right wheel. If you turned the wheels 100 times, your buddy would count 108 bolts, which would be 27 prop-shaft revolutions. The average of both wheels would clearly be 100, since the wheels are turning together. 108 bolts / 4 = 27 prop-shaft revolutions. 100 wheel revolutions / 27 prop-shaft revolutions = 3.703703704. I hope I have not made any typos! -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tedtsimx at bright.net Mon Jul 23 11:47:28 2007 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 13:47:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm References: <001801c7cb0d$ae3794c0$ef00a8c0@computerroom> Message-ID: <46A4E9B0.1050406@bright.net> John, to determine diff ratio, exception being a limited slip or welded diff, with 1 wheel held statinonary, rotate the driveshaft. mark the driveshaft adn a refernece point ofn the rear wheel. Count the number of drveahft turns needed to get 1 wheel revolutioln. Multiply this by 2. Example, a 3.45 diff wil ltake "almost 1 3/4 turns of the driveshaft to acheive 1 rear wheel revolution. 1 3/4 times 2 is 3.5. You will find it takes "slightly less" than 1 3/4 turns so you have a 3.45. A 3.7 ratio will take more than 1 3/4 turns but less than 2 turn to acheive 1 wheel revolution. Ted acs25m at swbell.net wrote: >I own a TR250 that I am having problems with. The car had 185/65r 15 tires >on it when purchased. I knew that these were not the right size tires and it >was causing my Speedo to be off. Well I recently purchased replacement >205/70r 15 tires and with my wife pacing me in another car the Speedo is now >correct. My problem is that the engine is still running at a higher rpm than >I think it should. At 60 mph my tack registers right at 3500 rpm. I >downloaded an excel spread sheet that was talked about on line and the only >way to get that rpm reading would be with 4.55 gears. I don't have an >overdrive and highway driving makes the car overheat. Short of removing and >disassembling the rear end is there any way to tell what rear-end gears are >really in the car. > >Any help would be appreciated, > >John R Maneke >_______________________________________________ >tedtsimx at bright.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From mathews at uga.edu Mon Jul 23 12:25:31 2007 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 14:25:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Determining Differential ratios Message-ID: <20070723182550.A997D18763F@autox.team.net> List, I've been reading all the messages about this subject, and I understand all of it! HA HA Seriously, here is a url that describes the process(es) to determine what you've got. Seems to match what has been said here. http://people.umass.edu/tcroy/articles/differential.htm Doug From acs25m at swbell.net Mon Jul 23 12:43:57 2007 From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 13:43:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm Message-ID: <001301c7cd59$6deb7780$ef00a8c0@computerroom> First off thanks to everybody for your input, although I didn't mean to cause such a bru ha ha. I jacked the car up tightened one brake adjuster to lock the wheel and counted revolutions on the other wheel. I do indeed have a 3.70 rear-end gear ratio. I assume that means the tack is off? Is it most likely the tack or the distributor gears causing the problem? Or can something else cause it? Anybody have any experience with APT Instruments? How about converting to electronic tach from mechanical? More accurate or less problematic? What are everybody's thoughts on the subject? John R Maneke From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 23 12:57:34 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:57:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <072320071528.29709.46A4C9160006AF0D0000740D22058863609D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <072320071528.29709.46A4C9160006AF0D0000740D22058863609D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1f0101c7cd5b$549c35b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > (Let's not do this for too long. Our hypothetical spider > gears are going crazy. and we are eventually going to toast > the differential.) Many years ago I did exactly that, when my FWD Audi broke a half-shaft on a long trip. Lacking funds or inclination to repair it properly, I fixed the half-shaft so it couldn't turn and headed for home with the other shaft driving the car. Talk about horrible torque steer ! But the extra 2:1 ratio made it get fantastic gas mileage; well over 40 mpg on a car that usually got under 30. Until of course the pumpkin seized and really tore things up. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 23 13:02:38 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 12:02:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm In-Reply-To: <001401c7cd38$55ece680$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <000901c7cbfa$2f253aa0$2202a8c0@newcomputer><20070722005804.327D2187A45@autox.team.net><001a01c7cc05$1e5c3290$2202a8c0@newcomputer><46A437C8.4030308@bradakis.com><000901c7cced$ea9335a0$2202a8c0@newcomputer><46A46328.7090906@zianet.com> <001401c7cd38$55ece680$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <1f0201c7cd5c$09d1acd0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > But I am still gonna try it for myself > because I am sure that I remember the wheels spinning > opposite directions > when they are both free. But maybe that happens when you > turn one wheel not > the drive shaft. Right. With an open diff, if you turn one wheel, generally the other wheel turns backwards and the driveshaft doesn't turn. More friction in the driveshaft, because it has to turn the transmission and also turns faster (has a taller effective gear ratio from the wheel than the other wheel does). But if you block one wheel from turning and turn the other wheel, the driveshaft will turn (assuming the transmission is out of gear ) at half the speed it would turn if both rear wheels were turning the same direction. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From dfscharpf at yahoo.com Mon Jul 23 13:41:44 2007 From: dfscharpf at yahoo.com (Dan Scharpf) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 12:41:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 1954 Triumph TR2 Long Door for Sale - Parts or ambitious restoration (NH) $1500 Message-ID: <231295.68668.qm@web35603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> It's time to move and I need to unload my 54 TR2 Long Door. Same story you';ve all heard before- not enough time to finish, kids, moving, etc. I'm located in New London NH, and I can help load this up but you will need to come and get it. Here are the details: The car is totally stripped down to the tub, so the next step is to get new floor pans, rocker panels, interior fenders, and some other patch panelsand start welding. In terms of parts, I have just about everything there, but you will need to get new seats and interior, and rebuild/refrubish everything else. I've already re-done the steering column, wiper motor, horns and some of the gauges. The car is a 54 Triumph TR2 long door, SN TS3590L with Title. I have the two original doors, and the following extra parts : 7 short doors with interior panels 9 side curtains from TR2s and TR3s (frames can be re-used, but the vinyl will need to be replaced. 7 front fenders 2 rear fenders 2 radiators 5 transmissions (no overdrive units unfortunately) 3 SU carb sets and assorted bits multiple extra guages 1 TR3 egg crate grill 1 TR4 grill 2 hoods 2 trunk lids 2 spare tire cover panels extra bumpers and over-riders 2 steering wheels extra clutch/transmission parts extra shocks 1 TR2 head 1 complete engine (block with TR3 head) 2 soft-top frames Inlet and exhaust manifolds from TR2/TR3s Original rear axle extra engine parts: pistons, distributors, oil pumps, etc. Extra trim pieces; mirrors, lights, headlight trim, etc. Try this link for some pictures I've taken: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dfscharpf/sets/72157600618323329/ It will be an ambitous project, but you will end up with a very rare and sweet ride. Asking $1,500 If you sold just the parts on Ebay, you could easily double your money. Let me know if you're interested. I need to get rid of this soon. -Dan dfscharpf at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. http://travel.yahoo.com/ From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Jul 23 13:50:48 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 14:50:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm References: <072320071528.29709.46A4C9160006AF0D0000740D22058863609D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> <1f0101c7cd5b$549c35b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <003101c7cd62$c762ab90$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> MacGyver strikes again! > > Many years ago I did exactly that, when my FWD Audi broke a half-shaft on > a > long trip. Lacking funds or inclination to repair it properly, I fixed > the > half-shaft so it couldn't turn and headed for home with the other shaft > driving the car. Talk about horrible torque steer ! From rickandcecilia at comcast.net Mon Jul 23 13:57:22 2007 From: rickandcecilia at comcast.net (Rick & Cecilia) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 15:57:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1954 Triumph TR2 Long Door for Sale - Parts or ambitious restoration (NH) $1500 References: <231295.68668.qm@web35603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <08c801c7cd63$af26cb00$6cc1a8c0@IBMT42> I have 2 doors, intact with window glass FREE for the taking. They are from an 80 Spitfire. I am in Maryland so local pickup is preferred as shipping would be insane. Please email me if interested. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Scharpf" To: "Triumph_List" Cc: "Dan Scharpf" Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 3:41 PM Subject: [TR] 1954 Triumph TR2 Long Door for Sale - Parts or ambitious restoration (NH) $1500 > It's time to move and I need to unload my 54 TR2 Long Door. > > Same story you';ve all heard before- not enough time to finish, kids, > moving, etc. > > I'm located in New London NH, and I can help load this up but you will > need to come and get it. > > Here are the details: > > > The car is totally stripped down to the tub, so the next step > is to get new floor pans, rocker panels, interior fenders, and some > other patch panelsand start welding. > > In terms of parts, I have just about everything there, but you will > need to get new seats and interior, and rebuild/refrubish everything > else. I've already re-done the steering column, wiper motor, horns and > some of the gauges. > > The car is a 54 Triumph TR2 long door, SN TS3590L with Title. > > I have the two original doors, and the following extra parts : > 7 short doors with interior panels > 9 side curtains from TR2s and TR3s (frames can be re-used, but the > vinyl will need to be replaced. > 7 front fenders > 2 rear fenders > 2 radiators > 5 transmissions (no overdrive units unfortunately) > 3 SU carb sets and assorted bits > multiple extra guages > 1 TR3 egg crate grill > 1 TR4 grill > 2 hoods > 2 trunk lids > 2 spare tire cover panels > extra bumpers and over-riders > 2 steering wheels > extra clutch/transmission parts > extra shocks > 1 TR2 head > 1 complete engine (block with TR3 head) > 2 soft-top frames > Inlet and exhaust manifolds from TR2/TR3s > Original rear axle > extra engine parts: pistons, distributors, oil pumps, etc. > Extra trim pieces; mirrors, lights, headlight trim, etc. > > Try this link for some pictures I've taken: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/dfscharpf/sets/72157600618323329/ > > It will be an ambitous project, but you will end up with a very rare > and sweet ride. > > Asking $1,500 > > If you sold just the parts on Ebay, you could easily double your money. > > Let me know if you're interested. I need to get rid of this soon. > > -Dan > dfscharpf at yahoo.com > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > Need a vacation? Get great deals > to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. > http://travel.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > rickandcecilia at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.14/912 - Release Date: 7/22/2007 > 7:02 PM From one_second_zero at yahoo.com Mon Jul 23 14:34:26 2007 From: one_second_zero at yahoo.com (Greg) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 13:34:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 tire sizes Message-ID: <894913.10222.qm@web50612.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Sorry, I know this has been probably covered many times, but here it is again... I'm looking to put 16x7 wheels on my TR6 (to go with the upgraded Goodparts suspension). Will 215/55ZR16 tires clear ok without rubbing? I have a tube shock conversion on the rear which I'm a little worried about with wider tires. I'm having trouble finding sticky high performance tires in workable sizes for a 16x7 wheel that still have a tall enough diameter. These tires are 25.3" in diameter according to tire rack's website. How does that compare to the original Michelin Redline diameter? thanks, Greg H Denton, TX --------------------------------- Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids. From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jul 23 15:45:12 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 21:45:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] 1954 Triumph TR2 Long Door for Sale - Parts or ambitious restoration (NH) $1500 Message-ID: <072320072145.8103.46A5216800068A3800001FA722070210539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Rick & Cecilia" > I have 2 doors, intact with window glass FREE for the taking. They are from > an 80 Spitfire. I am in Maryland so local pickup is preferred as shipping > would be insane. I suggest that you post this again with a proper subject line. From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jul 23 15:51:07 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 21:51:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] high engine rpm Message-ID: <072320072151.16533.46A522CB0004AFF20000409522070210539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > Anybody have any experience with APT Instruments? In Bloomington Minnesota? They did a great job putting modern innnerds in the electric tach on my Lotus. This was many years ago, but I have not heard a word against them from the locals since then. > How about converting to electronic tach from mechanical? More accurate or > less problematic? Certainly more accurate then the Smiths electric innerds. From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jul 23 15:54:53 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 17:54:53 EDT Subject: [TR] Determining Differential ratios Message-ID: In a message dated 7/23/2007 1:26:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, mathews at uga.edu writes: Seriously, here is a url that describes the process(es) to determine what you've got. Seems to match what has been said here. http://people.umass.edu/tcroy/articles/differential.htm Couldn't help but notice umass.edu. I went to UMass and, trust me, I didn't learn anything as interesting as this! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From portermd at zianet.com Mon Jul 23 16:10:27 2007 From: portermd at zianet.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 16:10:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] Determining Differential ratios In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46A52753.4070004@zianet.com> DLylis at aol.com wrote: > Couldn't help but notice umass.edu. I went to UMass and, trust me, I didn't > learn anything as interesting as this! > > Umm, when? I flunked out of UMass-Amherst twice, in the `60s (1965-6, 1967), but did manage to get UMass-Boston to take me back in 1972 (graduated in 1974). Cheers. -- Michael D. Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Jul 23 16:29:52 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 18:29:52 EDT Subject: [TR] off subject shipping Message-ID: In a message dated 7/21/2007 6:16:52 PM Mountain Daylight Time, kentshrack at yahoo.com writes: Need to ship an oven from Indianapolis to Kansas City, down I-70, What is the cheapest? THANKS Kent Shrack Greyhound....if you can take it to the station and they can pick it up. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jul 23 16:33:28 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 22:33:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Windwings Message-ID: <072320072233.15910.46A52CB7000EDF3800003E2622155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Hello, everyone. A while back I ordered some TR windwings from Moss, installed them, and within a week had a broken bracket dangling from the wing. Apparently these brackets, as others responded on the List, are made of a cheap pot metal. I have to testify this is true. Disclaimer: Absolutely no reflection on Moss. The supplier for this part seems to be universal for our parts houses, again as List members report. Anyway, when I called Moss, they gave their usual terrific customer experience (my experience, anyway, both with them and TRF), by sending me not the replacement brackets I'd asked for, but a whole new set of WindWings complete with brackets. But that still left me with the original problem, poor quality brackets. ...So, for those of you who are interested, I went to the local hardware store and purchased four 1/2" x 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel machine keys. These I used as blanks. With original brackets for a pattern, I cut the key down to 1 1/4" length using Vise Grips as a clamp to hold the key steady on my table saw set up with a metal cutting blade. Then I cut the slots down the center, taking several slow careful passes. Last, I drilled the holes for the set screw in the same location, and tapped same for the inset screws I purchased at the saem time I got the machine keys. Drill all the way through both "legs." After light sanding for a smooth finish, I painted with Rustoleum primer and Rustoleum Metalic Finish. Results are impeccable. They look great and are sturdy enough to crank as hard as you want on the set screw without ever breaking again. Hmmm... but now I have an unopened package of windwings to send back to Moss, as soon as I ask them if they'll credit me the postage. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 23 16:46:59 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 15:46:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 battery and alternator problem In-Reply-To: <000701c7cc7f$e6bf5440$0d02a8c0@Ecom.local> References: <000701c7cc7f$e6bf5440$0d02a8c0@Ecom.local> Message-ID: <1f4301c7cd7b$61496560$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > 4. I'd appreciate the wisdom of the list > a) should I just get a voltage regulator? or do I replace the entire > alternator? IMO, you don't have even enough information to replace the voltage regulator. Sounds more like a bad battery to me, but more tests are required to say with any certainty. 14.3 volts is within the Lucas specification of 13.6v to 14.4v. But, unless your mechanic tested it with a dummy load and no battery; you don't know if the regulator was calling for more and the battery was taking all the current it could put out, or if the regulator was regulating at 14.3. > b) or do I replace both alternator and battery since the > battery could be so > abused that it probably needs replacement? The battery may well be the entire problem, if it has a (partially) shorted cell. And at the very least, being boiled that hard *will* damage it, so it probably should be replaced anyway (once you are certain the charging system is OK). > The Buckeye Club > site suggests that a good alternate is the high amp Bosch > alternator used > for the Ford Fiesta and VW Rabbit. I will second that, except that it is only for very specific Ford Fiestas (most of them had Motorcraft alternators that are completely different); and I wasn't aware of the VW Rabbit application. My Rabbit had factory A/C (like the right Fiesta does), but not the same Bosch alternator. > My preference would be to spend a little extra and so be able to > use my TR6 sooner. In that case, I would replace both the battery and the entire alternator (with the Bosch unit); then promptly have it checked out by a local shop that has the right equipment to fully test the charging system. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From patton at suscom-maine.net Mon Jul 23 18:14:06 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 20:14:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 tire sizes In-Reply-To: <894913.10222.qm@web50612.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Greg, I'm running 205/55/R16 Cooper Zeon tires on Panasport rims. Very little clearance between the front ball joints and the rim but no rubbing tires. The rear shocks are stock lever type. Tires are a bit shorter but plenty wide and yes, the speedo is off. Hope to take care of the speedo error later this summer. Rick Patton 75TR6sci http://sidedrafttbi.com/ > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of Greg > Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 4:34 PM > To: Triumph List > Subject: [TR] TR6 tire sizes > > > Sorry, I know this has been probably covered many times, but here > it is again... I'm looking to put 16x7 wheels on my TR6 (to go snip > thanks, Greg H > Denton, TX From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jul 23 18:31:02 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 18:31:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Vapor Lock? In-Reply-To: <001f01c7cbdf$f1b5af70$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> Message-ID: <20070724003117.D6B1A187B4B@autox.team.net> I'm thinking that a heat shield may be in order here, I have a similar problem with my '58 TR3a. It starts and idles perfectly at operating temp of 190f on the dial every time but after getting up to highway speeds, or mountain roads and it gets 'goog-and-hot' but still under 200f, it will die everytime I come to a stop. Any suggestions from the list? Thx, Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 LO (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PBieling Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 3:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Vapor Lock? The TR3 starts right up cold. I drive till it's good and hot. Then I shut it off. If I go to restart it right away it takes 20 seconds or so of running the new Moss starter till she fires up. It has been hot here in the northeast soooo I am thinking vapor lock. Any ideas on how to cure it. _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.11/909 - Release Date: 7/20/2007 4:39 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 23 18:37:29 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 17:37:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vapor Lock? In-Reply-To: <20070724003117.D6B1A187B4B@autox.team.net> References: <001f01c7cbdf$f1b5af70$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> <20070724003117.D6B1A187B4B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1f8501c7cd8a$d0d724d0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Any suggestions from the list? Joe Alexander is selling a very nice heat shield for just this purpose. Available for both TR3-4 and TR250-6 I believe. Mine looks purty, but haven't had a chance to try it yet. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From L1J1S at aol.com Mon Jul 23 18:40:39 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 20:40:39 EDT Subject: [TR] Vapor Lock? Message-ID: randall, where can i see a picture of one? regards, larry ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jul 23 18:56:13 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 20:56:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vapor Lock? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001201c7cd8d$71516130$210110ac@bobspc> Larry, It's not on a TR3 but you can see a TR6 version at my web site under the Heat Shield link. I also have a link to Joe's site where you can see all of his products. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 8:41 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Vapor Lock? randall, where can i see a picture of one? regards, larry ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.14/912 - Release Date: 7/22/2007 7:02 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.14/912 - Release Date: 7/22/2007 7:02 PM From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Jul 23 18:58:16 2007 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 20:58:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vapor Lock? References: Message-ID: <002a01c7cd8d$b8572470$3205010a@paulw> http://www.trunkmonkey.com/content/view/44/51/ Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 8:40 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Vapor Lock? > randall, where can i see a picture of one? regards, larry > > > > ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL > at > http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour > _______________________________________________ > dwillner at ptd.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From trhouse at greenapple.com Mon Jul 23 19:10:43 2007 From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 21:10:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1954 Triumph TR2 Long Door for Sale - Parts or ambitious restoration (NH) $1500 In-Reply-To: <231295.68668.qm@web35603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: on 7/23/07 3:41 PM, Dan Scharpf at dfscharpf at yahoo.com wrote: > It's time to move and I need to unload my 54 TR2 Long Door. > > Same story you';ve all heard before- not enough time to finish, kids, > moving, etc. > > I'm located in New London NH, and I can help load this up but you will > need to come and get it. > > Here are the details: > > > The car is totally stripped down to the tub, so the next step > is to get new floor pans, rocker panels, interior fenders, and some > other patch panelsand start welding. > > In terms of parts, I have just about everything there, but you will > need to get new seats and interior, and rebuild/refrubish everything > else. I've already re-done the steering column, wiper motor, horns and > some of the gauges. > > The car is a 54 Triumph TR2 long door, SN TS3590L with Title. > > I have the two original doors, and the following extra parts : > 7 short doors with interior panels > 9 side curtains from TR2s and TR3s (frames can be re-used, but the > vinyl will need to be replaced. > 7 front fenders > 2 rear fenders > 2 radiators > 5 transmissions (no overdrive units unfortunately) > 3 SU carb sets and assorted bits > multiple extra guages > 1 TR3 egg crate grill > 1 TR4 grill > 2 hoods > 2 trunk lids > 2 spare tire cover panels > extra bumpers and over-riders > 2 steering wheels > extra clutch/transmission parts > extra shocks > 1 TR2 head > 1 complete engine (block with TR3 head) > 2 soft-top frames > Inlet and exhaust manifolds from TR2/TR3s > Original rear axle > extra engine parts: pistons, distributors, oil pumps, etc. > Extra trim pieces; mirrors, lights, headlight trim, etc. > > Try this link for some pictures I've taken: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/dfscharpf/sets/72157600618323329/ > > It will be an ambitous project, but you will end up with a very rare > and sweet ride. > > Asking $1,500 > > If you sold just the parts on Ebay, you could easily double your money. > > Let me know if you're interested. I need to get rid of this soon. > > -Dan > dfscharpf at yahoo.com > > > > ______________________________________________________________________________ > ______ > Need a vacation? Get great deals Dan could you send me the body tag numbers from the car(Above the Battery box) please also would like engine trans and rear axel numbers if convient for you. trhis is for a long time registry I have maintained on the side screen cars Thanks Tom Householder From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jul 23 19:29:02 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 21:29:02 EDT Subject: [TR] Determining Differential ratios Message-ID: In a message dated 7/23/2007 5:11:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, portermd at zianet.com writes: Couldn't help but notice umass.edu. I went to UMass and, trust me, I didn't > learn anything as interesting as this! > > Umm, when? I flunked out of UMass-Amherst twice, in the `60s (1965-6, 1967), but did manage to get UMass-Boston to take me back in 1972 (graduated in 1974). Arrived in '67, graduated in '72. Between the two of us we should have a Doctorate. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Mon Jul 23 19:49:45 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 20:49:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 caged nuts In-Reply-To: <676827.25975.qm@web83507.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <676827.25975.qm@web83507.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200707240150.l6O1o2AA017258@ns3.geneseo.net> Thanks for the info!! At 10:16 PM 7/21/2007, you wrote: >I checked with TRF and they have packs John put together with all >the required parts for $7.50 part # RFK >901. Thanks, Scott >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jul 23 20:15:46 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 20:15:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] Vapor Lock? In-Reply-To: <001201c7cd8d$71516130$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20070724021559.C2B131879F7@autox.team.net> Nicely documented. >From the looks of the shield I have a question. Will it clear all the linkages that are found under the standard TR3 SU-6 setup? Anybody out there with this shield on a TR3A? Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 LO (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 6:56 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion'; L1J1S at aol.com Subject: Re: [TR] Vapor Lock? Larry, It's not on a TR3 but you can see a TR6 version at my web site under the Heat Shield link. I also have a link to Joe's site where you can see all of his products. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 8:41 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Vapor Lock? randall, where can i see a picture of one? regards, larry ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.14/912 - Release Date: 7/22/2007 7:02 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.14/912 - Release Date: 7/22/2007 7:02 PM No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM From jmitch at snet.net Mon Jul 23 20:19:59 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 22:19:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hood cover snaps Message-ID: <46A561CF.3040302@snet.net> Can anyone with a late model TR6 with beige interior, tell me what color the outer snaps on the hood cover were originally? Ive seen pictures of both silver metal, and black. Thanks, John Mitchell 76 TR6 From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Jul 23 20:28:50 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 22:28:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Windwings References: <072320072233.15910.46A52CB7000EDF3800003E2622155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <01d101c7cd9a$6f847d80$8f0260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Terry, Would it be possible to get a picture of this? I don't understand it... Thanks, Paul From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Jul 23 20:54:55 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 20:54:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: <46A569FF.9020204@tscusa.org> Okay, all you betting against my success on attending VTR arriving in the Stag, all bets are now closed!! Those betting against, pay up! =-O Some GREAT photos posted already ... Stags were located, of course, in front of the Brewery Pub!!! After 6 days on the road - 3 days out and 3 back, we have returned home to Colorado covering some 3900 miles on I-70 and a few side trips on both sides of I-70 for wineries and antiques, not to mention many drives around Valley Forge and visiting family. The trip out we saw ZERO Triumphs until we pulled into Ted and Eden Allison's driveway outside of Dayton and there were 4 Triumphs counting our Stag. Departing Dayton Monday morning were two TR8's on trailers and two Stag's - Rob Schmueling and my own driving. We caught up with the trailer queens in New Stanton then caravaned into Valley Forge. It is always a thrill to ride in a convoy of Triumphs and watch all the gawkers and young kids with their noses pressed against their car windows as we pass by in a line. Herman van den Akker of course took the first place in long distance drive in his TR250, some 2800 miles one way. Some other person thought they qualified for second with a scant 1200 miles one way - we did not find out where to enter the distance contest averaging 1950 one way. I did see Mickey actually "drive" his TR8 on and off the trailer!!! O:-) The trip back saw ZERO Triumphs! But we did see two MGB's heading east on I-70 in Kansas. How discouraging :'( So this trip amounts to me collecting about 20,000 trophies; being 3900 miles on the odometer, about 2 dozen chips dings and scratches, and as close as I can count, 16076 DEAD BUGS (photos to follow)!!! Three quarters of those bugs were won in Kansas. I did however get the Autocross 1st place in Class - Modified - an empty victory won with no competition. It was great to place names to faces from the Triumph list and British Car Forum. and specially see Bob Danielson's TBI on his TR6 - VERY COOL!! And Cosmo too!! Triumph Stag Club USA sponsored the Welcome Party with $500, and co sponsors were TRA and the TR8 clubs. What is so cool about that? Free BEER and Phila Cheese Steaks, snacks and TastyKakes!! If I missed any of you at the Welcome party, well Sue and I had a family BBQ and I had to shoot out in the Stag to Havertown. My thanks to all the great folks and volunteers of the Delaware Valley Triumphs for a most excellent convention hosting 4 days packed with fun and activities! That is what a National Convention is all about, fun, friends and driving Triumphs. If you did not attend, well it was your loss. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From mrv8q at aim.com Mon Jul 23 21:01:08 2007 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 23:01:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vapor Lock? In-Reply-To: <20070724021559.C2B131879F7@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8C99BB604C638D1-84C-1BC9@FWM-M16.sysops.aol.com> Will it clear all the linkages that are found under the standard TR3 SU-6 setup? Anybody out there with this shield on a TR3A? I am using it on TS #58370, and really like it. I got one of the early ones, where there were some linkage clearance issues, but Joe came through with a second bolt on shield, and it works great, IMO, I'm using the K&N 1 3/4" airfilters, so it's a tight fit.... I'm looking forward to getting one for my TR6, as well. Best, Kevin Browne _______________________________________________ mrv8q at aim.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ________________________________________________________________________ Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- Unlimited storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Jul 23 21:37:49 2007 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 23:37:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 Message-ID: So - was there an announcement (or anything) about where VTR will be held next year or even in 2009? Carl TS81802LO now a rolling chassis with engine 'almost' ready to drop.. Forgot to get a replacement front plate gasket :-( From areich at telus.net Tue Jul 24 01:07:55 2007 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 00:07:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Windwings Message-ID: <46A5A54B.70405@telus.net> Terry I also had this problem, both with Windwings and the sun visors. Moss sent me a new clip within a week, for the windwings. Then last week, the one of the sun visors broke just when I adjusted upwards. I happened to have an old set of sun visors with the clips, and I replaced the new broken and the new un-broken with the old clips. They were much stronger and I noticed the gap to slide on the windshield lip was a bit smaller, that would reduce the force on the this lip of the clip. Your solution sounds great .. are you going into business to sell them? Allan Reich 1960 TR3A TS65713L From emanteno at comcast.net Tue Jul 24 05:46:21 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 11:46:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 Message-ID: <072420071146.1178.46A5E68D0003EF860000049A2207020953970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Carl TR" > So - was there an announcement (or anything) about where > VTR will be held next year or even in 2009? VTR 2008 will be in Ypsilanti, MI not far from Detroit. No announcement for 2009 was made. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 24 06:14:30 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 08:14:30 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 Message-ID: In a message dated 7/23/2007 10:38:20 PM Central Daylight Time, cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: > So - was there an announcement (or anything) about where > VTR will be held next year or even in 2009? > > Carl > TS81802LO now a rolling chassis with engine 'almost' > ready to drop.. Forgot to get a replacement front plate gasket :-( > As always. The 2008 VTR will be held in Ypsilanti (sp?) (near Detroit) during the first week of August. Blake assured me that registration forms will be on the web site around Aug 1 of this year. Register early, register often. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 24 06:21:49 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 08:21:49 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 6:47:08 AM Central Daylight Time, emanteno at comcast.net writes: > VTR 2008 will be in Ypsilanti, MI not far from Detroit. No announcement for > 2009 was made. > As per usual. The official announcements are made at the preceding VTR. But the rumor mill usually is running a year beyond that. Not this time. The reason is most likely that the decision has not yet been made. We must continue to press on in the dark. See you all in Michigan! Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jul 24 06:53:22 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 08:53:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001501c7cdf1$9f982830$210110ac@bobspc> Didn't Blake, or someone, say the they were still accepting proposals for VTR 2009? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 8:22 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2008 In a message dated 7/24/2007 6:47:08 AM Central Daylight Time, emanteno at comcast.net writes: > VTR 2008 will be in Ypsilanti, MI not far from Detroit. No > announcement for > 2009 was made. > As per usual. The official announcements are made at the preceding VTR. But the rumor mill usually is running a year beyond that. Not this time. The reason is most likely that the decision has not yet been made. We must continue to press on in the dark. See you all in Michigan! Dave _______________________________________________ No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Jul 24 07:03:03 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 09:03:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 References: Message-ID: <000a01c7cdf2$f88c1c20$df227247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Detroit in 2008 and 2009 has not been decided as yet "FT" From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Jul 24 09:25:20 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 09:25:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Here I come In-Reply-To: <003701c7c506$c291a8f0$ef50464b@rolofson> References: <003701c7c506$c291a8f0$ef50464b@rolofson> Message-ID: <46A619E0.7070602@tscusa.org> Hi Bud, Shame we did not get together to caravan! But we left on the 14th AM, drove mostly all I-70 with a few side trips. First night was Hermann MO. Next night was to meet up with more triumph folks and head in to VTR. levilevi wrote: > Blank I know I've forgotten something since I seem way too organized this time > but I'm off to Valley Forge in the AM. Gonna do some blue highway driving, > visit Mom, and generally goof off until I get there Tuesday. I'll try to keep > it close to 500 miles per day...seems to be about right for my constituion > these days. Be safe and I'll see y'all soon. > > Bud Rolofson -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From areich at telus.net Tue Jul 24 09:28:14 2007 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 08:28:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vapor Lock? Message-ID: <46A61A8E.2030909@telus.net> Bill: I have one on a 1960 TR3A ... bought it on e-bay from Joe. I drilled the hole for the vacuum line a little bigger and cut the opening a little larger for the throttle linkage. I drove it through some every hot country (100 F) and had no perking carb problems. Allan Reich 1960 TR3A TS65713L From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jul 24 09:27:41 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 11:27:41 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 Message-ID: <20070724112741.AAT71081@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> FT wrote: > Detroit in 2008 and 2009 has not been decided as yet Neither one of 'em? (Congrats on your spiffy award!) -- Jim Muller From triumph66 at gmail.com Tue Jul 24 09:52:59 2007 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 11:52:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 awards - where on VTR's website?? Message-ID: Where did they post the different winners @ VTR in Valley Forge?? Ted From cairnsbk at sbcglobal.net Tue Jul 24 09:58:20 2007 From: cairnsbk at sbcglobal.net (cairnsbk at sbcglobal.net) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 08:58:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hood cover snaps References: <46A561CF.3040302@snet.net> Message-ID: <004201c7ce0b$75c11a20$4101a8c0@BKC> John, The snaps are unpainted silver on my '74 TR6 (Carmine red/New Tan interior). Bruce Cairns ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Mitchell" To: "6 Pack" <6pack at Autox.Team.Net>; Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 7:19 PM Subject: [TR] Hood cover snaps > Can anyone with a late model TR6 with beige interior, tell me what > color the outer snaps on the hood cover were originally? Ive seen > pictures of both silver metal, and black. Thanks, John Mitchell > 76 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > cairnsbk at sbcglobal.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 24 10:13:54 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 09:13:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <46A569FF.9020204@tscusa.org> References: <46A569FF.9020204@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <205801c7ce0d$a24c3af0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Herman van den Akker of course took the first place in long distance > drive in his TR250, some 2800 miles one way. Hmm, that's an interesting point. If I want to score it next year, I'll have to drive to Herman's place first. Does that count ? Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jul 24 10:50:04 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 16:50:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: <072420071650.654.46A62DBC00078E530000028E22070206539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > I did however get the Autocross 1st place in Class - Modified - an empty > victory won with no competition. Nope, not an empty victory. You beat all the conventioneers with modified cars who did not show up at the autocross to oppose you. The idea of bringing a sports car to a sports-car convention and not running the autocross seems very strange to me. Then again, the idea of bringing a sports car to a sports-car convention and not running the TSD rally seems very strange to some other folks. Different strokes. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Jul 24 11:00:51 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 13:00:51 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 7:53:49 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Didn't Blake, or someone, say the they were still accepting proposals for VTR 2009? Not exactly - what he said is that VTR already have proposals from 2 potential host clubs for the 2009 event - implying that the VTR board would pick one of those soon, but had not done so yet. Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Jul 24 11:28:26 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 11:28:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <072420071650.654.46A62DBC00078E530000028E22070206539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <072420071650.654.46A62DBC00078E530000028E22070206539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <46A636BA.7000301@tscusa.org> pethier at comcast.net wrote: > Nope, not an empty victory. You beat all the conventioneers with modified cars who did not show up at the autocross to oppose you. The idea of bringing a sports car to a sports-car convention and not running the autocross seems very strange to me. > > Then again, the idea of bringing a sports car to a sports-car convention and not running the TSD rally seems very strange to some other folks. Different strokes. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA Thanks Phil, I fully agree. Autocross is one of the events that you can explore the limits of your Triumph or LBC in a pretty safe environment. You can drive the course as slow as you want, or drive it with wild abandon. The only problem is when you complete the course, your adrenalin in pumping like crazy! Another thing you experience driving autocross are the limits of your car, how it handles in extreme situations. It is better to experience that in a parking lot than on the highway in an emergency situation. If you get out of sorts and crossed up on an autocross course, all you kill are a few plastic cones, sort of like Dave Massey - The CONE KILLER!!! Anyone get photos of that?? I bet Clark did on his site http://www.cwnicholls.net/vtr/ For TSD, when I get my odometer a little closer than 13%, I'll do TSD's. I had done TSD's in the past when I had my TR250 and they are great fun! But that is what VTR is all about - Driving your Triumph, not standing around all primped and polished. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 24 11:59:10 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:59:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20a201c7ce1c$560ae830$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Just curious...... I ran into a few people at VTR who were > running alloy > water pumps. I did a quick Google but can't find any. So, > who sells them and > what are the advantages? One guy installed an alloy pump and > the output was > so great that it blew out his stock radiator! I think I've already seen BFE mentioned as a source. So I only want to add that it's the 6-blade impeller that increases water flow, not the alloy pump. Don't know if he still does, but Ken (at BFE) used to sell the 6-blade installed on a cast iron pump considerably cheaper than the alloy pump. Only advantage of alloy, AFAIK, is that it saves a pound or two. At least partially in your wallet ! BTW, since the pressure cap is at the point water enters the radiator, the pressure in the radiator is not increased by additional water flow. If anything, the pressure at the bottom outlet is decreased (because of increased drop across the radiator). Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 24 12:07:01 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 14:07:01 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 7:53:55 AM Central Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: > Didn't Blake, or someone, say the they were still accepting proposals for > VTR 2009? > Rumors abound. What Blake told me is that the decision will be made in October or November. He didn't say anything more. But there is no need for us to get all worked up about it. We should be planning for 2008. Dave P.S. Nice car, Bob. From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Jul 24 12:19:40 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 14:19:40 EDT Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 11:03:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: BTW, since the pressure cap is at the point water enters the radiator, the pressure in the radiator is not increased by additional water flow. If anything, the pressure at the bottom outlet is decreased (because of increased drop across the radiator). I would sure be curious if there is any analytical data w/r improved pumping ability. I say this because I once was fortunate enough to spend a bit of time discussing automotive water pumps (specifically the two different Stag pumps) with an automotive water pump specialist from Chrysler who belonged to our club. My conclusion from that conversation was that adding vanes does not necessarily improve water pump performance. Does anyone know if there is credible evidence that it improves cooling in this case? Thanks, Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 24 12:20:15 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 14:20:15 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 awards - where on VTR's website?? Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 10:56:45 AM Central Daylight Time, triumph66 at gmail.com writes: > Where did they post the different winners @ VTR in Valley Forge?? > I'll bet they are still winding down from a very hectic week (and year, for that matter) and will get around to posting in a few days or weeks. Can't say that I blame them. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 24 12:21:16 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 14:21:16 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 11:14:28 AM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Hmm, that's an interesting point. If I want to score it next year, I'll > have to drive to Herman's place first. Does that count ? > > Or move to Baja. ;-) Dave From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Jul 24 12:36:50 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 12:36:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <205801c7ce0d$a24c3af0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: <46A569FF.9020204@tscusa.org> <205801c7ce0d$a24c3af0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <46A646C2.70101@tscusa.org> Randall wrote: > Hmm, that's an interesting point. If I want to score it next year, I'll > have to drive to Herman's place first. Does that count ? > > > Randall > With Detroit being in the middle of the country, it will take some creative side trips for the distance award, sort of like departing a week early and driving to Florida from California then up to Maine and over through Canada. It also depends on how the host club scores the distance. Some have used the shortest distance listed in the Road Atlas or computer directions, others use the actual routes driven even if they were the least direct. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 24 12:42:41 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 14:42:41 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 1:37:47 PM Central Daylight Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > With Detroit being in the middle of the country, it will take some > creative side trips for the distance award, sort of like departing a > week early and driving to Florida from California then up to Maine and > over through Canada. > I figure if I head west to Seattle and then to Alaska and take a ferry across to Siberia and then onward to eastern Europe and then take a cargo ship from Liverpool to Fairfax and then drive on to Windsor and cross the River I MIGHT have a chance at the Long Distance Award. But then I run the risk of encountering Jack Lemon. Dave From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jul 24 13:06:23 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 12:06:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip References: <46A569FF.9020204@tscusa.org><205801c7ce0d$a24c3af0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> <46A646C2.70101@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Glenn, I have to say that Detroit is far from the middle of the country. It is in fact in the north and still over 2000 miles from me in Southern AZ. I am still waiting on there being scheduled an event that is convenient for me to attend. I went to Dallas last year but that is about as far as I can travel in the limited time I can take and budget I can afford. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn A. Merrell" To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 11:36 AM Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip > Randall wrote: > > Hmm, that's an interesting point. If I want to score it next year, I'll > > have to drive to Herman's place first. Does that count ? > > > > > > Randall > > > With Detroit being in the middle of the country, it will take some > creative side trips for the distance award, sort of like departing a > week early and driving to Florida from California then up to Maine and > over through Canada. > > It also depends on how the host club scores the distance. Some have > used the shortest distance listed in the Road Atlas or computer > directions, others use the actual routes driven even if they were the > least direct. From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Jul 24 13:05:05 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 15:05:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump Message-ID: <380-2200772241955353@M2W019.mail2web.com> Just adding vanes, if it doesn't improve coolant flow, will not improve cooling (that is to say that there is a problem with cooling in the first place). However, if adding vanes DOES improve the coolant flow, then yes cooling would be improved - (this is of course assuming that there is an adequately sized radiator, correct pressure, no leaks, etc.). Check out Stewart water pumps for details on pump flow vs cooling effectiveness - Original Message: ----------------- I would sure be curious if there is any analytical data w/r improved pumping ability. I say this because I once was fortunate enough to spend a bit of time discussing automotive water pumps (specifically the two different Stag pumps) with an automotive water pump specialist from Chrysler who belonged to our club. My conclusion from that conversation was that adding vanes does not necessarily improve water pump performance. Does anyone know if there is credible evidence that it improves cooling in this case? Thanks, Mike Moore -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange From Harrymague at aol.com Tue Jul 24 13:35:49 2007 From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 15:35:49 EDT Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump Message-ID: I was wondering if the curved parts of blades would make a difference. It certainly makes a difference in airplanes. Harry Mague ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Jul 24 13:50:21 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 15:50:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump References: Message-ID: <005001c7ce2b$df001a70$df227247@fred8kwiskhcfu> >I was wondering if the curved parts of blades would make a difference. It > certainly makes a difference in airplanes. > Harry Mague ========================================================================================================== Many years ago I purchased from Ken Gilanders @ British Frame & Engine the 6 bladed water pump for my always overheating T/R 3 and since that day the car has never overheated again and operates so cool it is almost scary, great part for all 4 cyclinder Triumph's From spamiam at comcast.net Tue Jul 24 13:53:49 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 19:53:49 +0000 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 awards - where on VTR's website?? AND VTR awards Message-ID: <072420071953.13239.46A658CD0000787A000033B72205884484030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> >Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 11:52:59 -0400 >From: Ted >Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 awards - where on VTR's website?? >To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" >Message-ID: >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Where did they post the different winners @ VTR in Valley Forge?? > >Ted Ted, The results are not posted yet. But they will be. Most likely they will also be available at the VTR2007.com website too. I think that the judges and other volunteers are still recovering! Right now, personally, I am working on re-uniting the leftover awards with their rightful owners. I have heard that a couple of people did not get their rightful award because it was not MADE. Darrell Floyd and I tried to economize in award production this year. It was decided that there would be a "standard" VTR award format so that unused elements from one year could be reused the next year. Therefore we did not assemble every concievable award ahead of time. As a matter of fact, there was limited room for spur-of -the-moment extra awards to be assembled at the last second, as well as room for splitting of classes on the day of the show. This added a considerable level of complexity as well as economy. This resulted in some confusion on the part of the people pulling the awards for the recipeints from the awards table. A few mixups occurred and I am straightening them out now. The VTR plan on a "standard" VTR style of award seems pretty good. There is an 8x10 rosewood plaque that serves as the "easel" for the award. It can be aligned either "landscape" or "portrait" as decided by the host club. The VTR will supply a round embossed metal VTR logo seal, as well as the event/class plates which are about 4" x 1.5". The host club will add a third element of their own design to make each year's awards unique. They will assemble the awards as well. Most likely they will add some event/class plates during the convention as participation determines the specific needs. Also, some awards will probably be assembled from the raw materials during the convention as the total number of awards needed becomes clearer. This year I had around 82 complete awards, 60 awards complete except for the event/class plate, and about 22 were assembled from parts during the convention. As far as I can tell, we had no wastage, except for the special tiles that were commissioned for the awards. We had 190 of them ready to go. I may have to make a few more after the dust settles regarding the leftover awards, and the people who did not get their awards at the banquet. From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jul 24 14:10:31 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 16:10:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: <20070724161031.AAU53221@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> D1M wrote: > I figure if I head west to Seattle and then to Alaska and > take a ferry across to Siberia and then onward to eastern > Europe and then take a cargo ship from Liverpool to Fairfax > and then drive on to Windsor and cross the River I MIGHT > have a chance at the Long Distance Award. That's a route you got from Microsoft's website, right? -- Jim M, with a poor short-term memory From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Jul 24 14:11:01 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 16:11:01 EDT Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 12:42:24 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, Harrymague at aol.com writes: I was wondering if the curved parts of blades would make a difference. It certainly makes a difference in airplanes. Harry Mague As I recall, the originals on the Stag were curved, and the "improved" ones were straight (but more blades). My friend the water pump engineer for Chrysler said the big difference in the two would be the manufacturing cost (I showed him both impellers). The staright ones were likely less expensive he said. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jul 24 14:23:40 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 16:23:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump In-Reply-To: <20a201c7ce1c$560ae830$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: <20a201c7ce1c$560ae830$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <000501c7ce30$87263a50$210110ac@bobspc> And one nice Lister just offered me a brand new 6 blade impeller at a very reasonable cost. :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 1:59 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] Alloy Water Pump > Just curious...... I ran into a few people at VTR who were running > alloy water pumps. I did a quick Google but can't find any. So, who > sells them and what are the advantages? One guy installed an alloy > pump and the output was so great that it blew out his stock radiator! I think I've already seen BFE mentioned as a source. So I only want to add that it's the 6-blade impeller that increases water flow, not the alloy pump. Don't know if he still does, but Ken (at BFE) used to sell the 6-blade installed on a cast iron pump considerably cheaper than the alloy pump. Only advantage of alloy, AFAIK, is that it saves a pound or two. At least partially in your wallet ! BTW, since the pressure cap is at the point water enters the radiator, the pressure in the radiator is not increased by additional water flow. If anything, the pressure at the bottom outlet is decreased (because of increased drop across the radiator). Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. 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If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Tue Jul 24 14:24:33 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 15:24:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] VTR trips Message-ID: <200707242024.l6OKOhu4197094@ns3.geneseo.net> Sorry I couldn't make it to VTR this year, but I did a related activity. I have very long legs and driving the TR6 on long interstate trips is borderline painful to my throttle leg. I spent those days on the installation of a cruise control -- a commercially available Audiovox unit that sell for $129 retail or about $90 on eBay. It takes some ingenuity to do it, but its appearance is not overly obtrusive and it works wonderfully. It would work on the whole TR range, TR2 to TR6. Somebody else installed a cruise of some sort but I don't remember who. If there is enough interest I'll try to create a way to show pictures, etc. uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Jul 24 14:27:49 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 16:27:49 EDT Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 1:24:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: And one nice Lister just offered me a brand new 6 blade impeller at a very reasonable cost. :-) Bob Danielson Bob, They may be great-I just haven't seen any evidence, although we just had an email for a TR3 which now runs cooler.I tend to be pretty skeptical of most of the aftermarket stuff. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 24 14:51:44 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 13:51:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20dc01c7ce34$74d44c80$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > My conclusion from that conversation was that adding vanes does not > necessarily improve water pump performance. Does anyone know > if there is credible > evidence that it improves cooling in this case? Improving cooling is a different matter than improving water flow. The evidence of increased water flow seems clear to me, several racers have reported increased pressure readings inside the engine. Henry Frye reported pegging a 35 psi gauge coming off the straight (but declined to mention his tach reading at the moment). Whether and how much that improves cooling is a different matter. However, on the TRactor motor, there does appear to be a problem with insufficient water movement around the #4 cylinder, which increased flow is bound to help, IMO. I've heard from several people who are also experimenting with restrictors fitted to the front water passages, for the same reason. (For example, Mordy Dunst sells head gaskets with smaller holes for the front water passages.) All this is under racing conditions though, so may or may not be applicable to the street. Higher pressure inside the head will also, at least in theory, reduce nucleate boiling near the limit, which can be important for engines modified to produce twice (or more) as much power as original. It's not even clear to me that the real difference is 6 vanes vs 4 vanes. The 6 vane pumps have more surface area on the vanes, and are finished all over, while at least some 4 vane impellers have rough sand-cast surfaces. The vanes are also curved on the 6-vane, straight on the 4-vane. Might be that a 4 vane pump built to the same vane shape and size as the 6 would work just as well. But until someone builds a pump like that, it's kind of a moot point. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 24 14:58:36 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 13:58:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump In-Reply-To: <000501c7ce30$87263a50$210110ac@bobspc> References: <20a201c7ce1c$560ae830$6a5636cc@navcom.com> <000501c7ce30$87263a50$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20e701c7ce35$678b00e0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > And one nice Lister just offered me a brand new 6 blade > impeller at a very > reasonable cost. :-) Cool! How about temporarily connecting a pressure gauge instead of the heater valve, and giving us "before and after" pressure readings ? Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 24 15:05:57 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 14:05:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <46A569FF.9020204@tscusa.org><205801c7ce0d$a24c3af0$6a5636cc@navcom.com><46A646C2.70101@tscusa.org> <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <20f901c7ce36$6e549020$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I have to say that Detroit is far from the middle of the > country. It is in > fact in the north and still over 2000 miles from me in Southern AZ. And about 2300 miles for Herman and I. Same old problem, the "midwest" is neither in the middle nor in the west. > I am still waiting on there being scheduled an event that is > convenient for > me to attend. Keep your calendar open for 2009, Joe. It's by no means certain, way too early for any announcements, but there is a chance ... Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Jul 24 15:17:47 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 15:17:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 awards - where on VTR's website?? AND VTR awards In-Reply-To: <072420071953.13239.46A658CD0000787A000033B72205884484030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> References: <072420071953.13239.46A658CD0000787A000033B72205884484030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <46A66C7B.5040509@tscusa.org> spamiam at comcast.net wrote: >> Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 awards - where on VTR's website?? >> > Ted, The results are not posted yet. But they will be. Most likely > they will also be available at the VTR2007.com website too. > I think that the judges and other volunteers are still recovering! > > The volunteers of DVT definitely deserve a break!! They did a GREAT JOB!!! > > This added a considerable level of complexity as well as economy. This resulted in some confusion on the part of the people pulling the awards for the recipeints from the awards table. A few mixups occurred and I am straightening them out now. > Ohoh, maybe I got second or third?? -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 24 15:21:07 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:21:07 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 3:11:45 PM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > D1M wrote: > >I figure if I head west to Seattle and then to Alaska and > >take a ferry across to Siberia and then onward to eastern > >Europe and then take a cargo ship from Liverpool to Fairfax > >and then drive on to Windsor and cross the River I MIGHT > >have a chance at the Long Distance Award. > > That's a route you got from Microsoft's website, right? > Right. Except they had me paying license fees every so often. Dave From one_second_zero at yahoo.com Tue Jul 24 15:31:56 2007 From: one_second_zero at yahoo.com (Greg) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 14:31:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: <327751.88191.qm@web50602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ahhhh, a reference to "The Great Race" and Professor Fate, unless I miss my guess. A true classic comedy and an old favorite. -Greg H Message: 7 Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 14:42:41 EDT From: Dave1massey at cs.com Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip To: triumphs at autox.team.net But then I run the risk of encountering Jack Lemon. Dave --------------------------------- Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 24 15:45:04 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:45:04 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 4:06:30 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > And about 2300 miles for Herman and I. Same old problem, the "midwest" is > neither in the middle nor in the west. I'm not sure Michigan is even considered midwest but even if it is Ypsilanti is far eastern midwest. The midwest extends as far west as Minnesota (still considerably east of the geographic center of the continental US (althought due north of the population center of the US which is just south of Rolla, MO) > > >I am still waiting on there being scheduled an event that is > >convenient for > >me to attend. > > Keep your calendar open for 2009, Joe. It's by no means certain, way too > early for any announcements, but there is a chance ... Nothing is final until the VTR banquet the year before. And all I know are rumors. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 24 15:46:24 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:46:24 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 awards - where on VTR's website?? AND VTR awards Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 4:18:10 PM Central Daylight Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > >This added a considerable level of complexity as well as economy. This > resulted in some confusion on the part of the people pulling the awards for the > recipeints from the awards table. A few mixups occurred and I am > straightening them out now. > > > Ohoh, maybe I got second or third?? > Why not? Did you kill any cones?!!! Dave From bdischer at blakedischer.com Tue Jul 24 15:47:59 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:47:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <017901c7ce3c$4fa7b8e0$0201a8c0@bjdtr3a> Hi everyone, Hats off to the Delaware Valley Triumph Club for a superb 2007 convention. Graham Robson pulled me aside at the concours show and said, "You guys are doing this next year in Michigan?" I replied, "Yes." He said, "Well, you have a tough act to follow what with this show being so perfectly run!" We in the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club know that, and are up for the challenge! The 2008 North American Triumph Challenge will be held August 5-8, 2007 in Ypsilanti, Michigan. (Pronounced ip-sa-lantie, don't say the Y, they'll know you're an outsider!) VTR is reviewing proposals from two clubs for 2009, expect an announcement in September or October. A copy of the flyer the Detroit gang distributed at the Awards Banquet is available at http://www.natc2008.com. Depending on your ISP, that URL may not yet have propagated, so if it doesn't work, check back tomorrow. We're especially looking forward to the Spinal Tappets, we're hearing they have lots of new material. That and the 48-hour Spitfire rebuild should be the highlights of the show. Cheers, Blake Discher -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of McGaheyRx at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 1:01 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2008 In a message dated 7/24/2007 7:53:49 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Didn't Blake, or someone, say the they were still accepting proposals for VTR 2009? Not exactly - what he said is that VTR already have proposals from 2 potential host clubs for the 2009 event - implying that the VTR board would pick one of those soon, but had not done so yet. From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Jul 24 15:48:09 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:48:09 EDT Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems Message-ID: If a email is sent and no one receives it, does it exist? ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 24 15:48:28 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:48:28 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 4:32:17 PM Central Daylight Time, one_second_zero at yahoo.com writes: > Ahhhh, a reference to "The Great Race" and Professor Fate, unless I miss my > guess. A true classic comedy and an old favorite. > What was the name of the character played by Peter Faulk? (Seriously, I forget) From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 24 15:55:06 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:55:06 EDT Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 4:51:08 PM Central Daylight Time, ZinkZ10C at aol.com writes: > If a email is sent and no one receives it, does it exist? > Is that one of those philosophical questions like: "If a man says something and his wife is not there to hear him, is he still wrong?" From spamiam at comcast.net Tue Jul 24 15:54:57 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:54:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 awards - where on VTR's website?? AND VTR Message-ID: <001101c7ce3d$47018f80$6502a8c0@p4server> Glenn, >The volunteers of DVT definitely deserve a break!! They did a GREAT JOB!!! Yes, the DVT volunteers worked very hard at bringing this all together. Most of the work was done well behind the scenes, and only a few of us got to be seen behind the podium at the banquet. Those people deserve the credit, as does Bob "Where's Bob" DeLucia who orchestrated the whole thing. >> A few mixups occurred and I am straightening them out now. >Ohoh, maybe I got second or third?? There are no leftover Stag awards in P/C, but there was one in Concours: A third. Before you get too excited, it belongs to Michael Ferrell. -Tony From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 24 16:00:12 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 15:00:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <211601c7ce3e$025975e0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > What was the name of the character played by Peter Faulk? > (Seriously, I forget) Maximillian Meen. (I didn't even remember Peter Falk was in The Great Race, had to Google it.) Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 24 16:02:09 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 15:02:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <211701c7ce3e$481a8420$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > If a email is sent and no one receives it, does it exist? I dunno. Here's another riddle for you though : What does it mean when people stay with the worst ISP in the history of the Internet ? Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Jul 24 16:04:58 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 22:04:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Windwings Message-ID: <072420072204.4827.46A6778A00085C6B000012DB22155934149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Would love to, Paul, when I can access my daughter's computer with the photo gear I need. Be a couple of weeks. -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Paul Dorsey" > Terry, > Would it be possible to get a picture of this? I don't understand it... > Thanks, Paul From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jul 24 16:08:15 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 18:08:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR trips In-Reply-To: <200707242024.l6OKOhu4197094@ns3.geneseo.net> References: <200707242024.l6OKOhu4197094@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <001801c7ce3f$239ea710$210110ac@bobspc> Bud Rolofson (sp?) installed one on his TR6 back in '99 before he made the trip from Colorado to Maine for VTR1999. What's cleaver about his is that he installed the stalk control arm on the right side of his steering column behind the high beam arm. Then he had the plastic steering column housing for a car with overdrive, turned it upside down and used it to cover the cruise stalk arm. So when you sit in his driver's seat, it looks perfect: on the left is his blinker and overdrive stalks and on the right, his high beam and cruise. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack W. Drews Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 4:25 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] VTR trips Sorry I couldn't make it to VTR this year, but I did a related activity. I have very long legs and driving the TR6 on long interstate trips is borderline painful to my throttle leg. I spent those days on the installation of a cruise control -- a commercially available Audiovox unit that sell for $129 retail or about $90 on eBay. It takes some ingenuity to do it, but its appearance is not overly obtrusive and it works wonderfully. It would work on the whole TR range, TR2 to TR6. Somebody else installed a cruise of some sort but I don't remember who. If there is enough interest I'll try to create a way to show pictures, etc. uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Jul 24 16:37:28 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 16:37:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46A67F28.3090401@tscusa.org> Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 7/24/2007 4:51:08 PM Central Daylight Time, > ZinkZ10C at aol.com writes: > >> If a email is sent and no one receives it, does it exist? > s that one of those philosophical questions like: > > "If a man says something and his wife is not there to hear him, is he still > wrong?" > ONLY if he does not wake and mutter these words to his wife: I'm Sorry .... -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Jul 24 16:37:39 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 18:37:39 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2008 Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 5:51:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, bdischer at blakedischer.com writes: The 2008 North American Triumph Challenge will be held August 5-8, 2007 in Ypsilanti, Michigan. Hey Blake, I suppose I just got lucky here. Michigan = a 3 hour drive for us folks in NE OHIO. Soooooo, I am going to say that multiple cars from me will be there. 1st will be the 70 Spitfire MK 3, my ultimate AutoX prepared machine. Next would be the TR3B, I know, never made it to Valley Forge, still in pieces guys but will be ready for 08. I am going to throw the keys of all my other cars to my two daughters and son in laws and I hope my good buddy Bob Palmer will be back, so look for me to register early and often. Cheers, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Jul 24 16:52:49 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 16:52:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 awards - where on VTR's website?? AND VTR awards In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46A682C1.6000600@tscusa.org> Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 7/24/2007 4:18:10 PM Central Daylight Time, > StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > >> Ohoh, maybe I got second or third?? > Why not? Did you kill any cones?!!! > > Dave We had one member do his best to kill some cones at both the Funkhana AND the AutoCross! :-D You need to add some "kill stickers" on your 8's driver door - one green cone, one yellow cone. Did you kill any orange ones, or just maim them?? ;-) - Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Jul 24 16:58:25 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 18:58:25 EDT Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/07 5:55:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: << Is that one of those philosophical questions like: "If a man says somethi ng and his wife is not there to hear him, is he still wrong?" >> In my case, no wife = never wrong. Harold ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Jul 24 17:06:55 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 19:06:55 EDT Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/07 6:03:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: << Here's another riddle for you though : What does it mean when people stay w ith the worst ISP in the history of the Internet ? >> AOL has been good for my uses since 95, only recently it has had issues with HTML advertising that can't be shut off. Seems the new TR software accepts and strips off HTML. Reasons to stay. Long established e mail addresses, yes people from 6 years ago have contacted me. 7 e mail addresses allow for separation of e mail topics without any mail program setup. 7 email addresses on one account allow me to give one to Mom so she can e mail me / check pictures from Mars from her computer while I'm at work and I ca n use AOL when at my house. Impervious to e mail viruses that grab your address book or worse. Past that I'd be gone by now. Harold ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Jul 24 17:14:54 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:14:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> References: <46A569FF.9020204@tscusa.org><205801c7ce0d$a24c3af0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> <46A646C2.70101@tscusa.org> <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <46A687EE.3010509@tscusa.org> Joe Curry wrote: > Glenn, > I have to say that Detroit is far from the middle of the country. It is in > fact in the north and still over 2000 miles from me in Southern AZ. > > Joe C. > Gee, they are still in Eastern Time Zone =-O Ah Geography, who needs it :-[ Well anyway, for us it is a bit more than half way between Denver and the east coast. Right about 1200 plus miles so if the weather sucks, we will drive it in one real long day ... just like driving to Dallas which was 1180. We will get that sorted when we drive to Bronte Park Ontario, 1500 miles one way. Anyone going to Triumphest this year in Laughlin NV?? We are planning on it, with some more Stagtivities for all you West Coast drivers. That ought to put the miles for our shows this year somewhere over 9000 miles for the year, not including local drives ... Probably half of what Herman drives in his TR250 -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jul 24 17:44:58 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 19:44:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hood liner and Really Really Dumb Message-ID: <002401c7ce4c$a7fa17d0$210110ac@bobspc> OK, so I installed the hood liner (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HoodLiner.htm) a few months ago and it fell off because I used the wrong adhesive but Bob Budd sent me a new one at no cost. Great customer service. Reinstall it with the correct adhesive and it's stuck there forever now. So last week before leaving VTR for the drive home I check the oil, it's down a smidge and I've got a smidge in one bottle. Top it off, check the level, toss the bottle out and close the hood. Drive for 2 hours up the Jersey Turnpike and the Garden State Pkwy and stop for a break at a rest area. Pop the hood to check on a small coolant leak I developed and...........What the @$%#....there's oil everywhere.....the hood liner is covered, as is the engine bay.........and there sitting on the battery is the oil filler cap smiling at me. What a mess. What a dummy. Luckily it was all splatter and no quantity lost as I didn't even have to add any oil. Anyhow, yesterday I cleaned the engine bay and took the old hood liner that fell off and covered a 10" circle with oil and let it sit overnight. Today I hit the spot with "Greased Lighting", wiped it up, rinsed with water and there's absolutely no evidence of oil. So I did the same with the liner on the car and it came out looking like new. I couldn't believe it. Bob states on his site that they WILL NOT absorb oil and they won't. Even the logo looks great. My wife's only comment was...."at least it didn't happen on the way TO the VTR Convention" :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM From jhassall at blacksburg.net Tue Jul 24 17:51:06 2007 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 19:51:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 handbrake grommet / gearbox cover question Message-ID: <46A6906A.8030108@blacksburg.net> Listers, I have a fiberglass gearbox tunnel (which doesn't fit worth a damn) which doesn't seem to seal properly. The PO replaced the pax side floor board but it didn't have a cutout for the handbrake. I cut a hole in the floor, but something doesn't seem right. The gbx cover has a flat area into which the h'brake grommet is apparently intended to fit. However, if I cut the gbx cover, it'll leave an open area for water, etc to pool on the floorboard inside the grommet. And that makes no sense. WTF, over? TIA jim -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA 64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jul 24 17:55:20 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 19:55:20 EDT Subject: [TR] Looking for a 3A front cam bearing Message-ID: I have all the parts in and organized to start reassembly, but no one has the front cam bearing. Its like a month and a half backordered from all the usual sources. Any chance anyone has one to part with, or knows the location of one? TIA David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 24 17:55:30 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 16:55:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <46A687EE.3010509@tscusa.org> References: <46A569FF.9020204@tscusa.org><205801c7ce0d$a24c3af0$6a5636cc@navcom.com><46A646C2.70101@tscusa.org> <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <46A687EE.3010509@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <215c01c7ce4e$20cb8c10$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Anyone going to Triumphest this year in Laughlin NV?? We are > planning > on it, with some more Stagtivities for all you West Coast drivers. It could happen, if I ever get this accursed gearbox back in the car. Spent hours last night, playing with shims & control valves for the J-type. Turns out my old OD was apparently for a TR6 or similar, so not enough pressure for the Stag; plus the Volvo unit has a different relief/control valve assembly. Better design, IMO, but takes different springs and still only set for around 400 psi instead of the 510-550 recommended for the Stag. But I've finally got enough shims in there to make it work. I'm a little bit worried about coil bind, but it should be OK ... I hope ! So now all I need to do is fabricate some "dowel bolts"; put the gearbox back in; replace the broken LH exhaust manifold; assemble the replacement pulleys, fan & Torquatrol (PS pulley was damaged); and installed the freshly rodded radiator. Oh yeah, need some work on the headpipes, too, plus maybe some of those stainless band clamps so they won't be so hard to get off next time. Then if nothing else goes wrong, I'll have to replace the seals in the diff (and probably the bearing in the extension too) before attempting the trip to Laughlin. Hmm, current weather in Laughlin is 102F with a flash flood watch ... maybe I'd better work on the A/C too ! Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue Jul 24 18:12:52 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 20:12:52 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR trips Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 4:25:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, vinttr4 at geneseo.net writes: I spent those days on the installation of a cruise control -- a commercially available Audiovox unit that sell for $129 retail or about $90 on eBay. It takes some ingenuity to do it, but its appearance is not overly obtrusive and it works wonderfully. It would work on the whole TR range, TR2 to TR6. Somebody else installed a cruise of some sort but I don't remember who. ==AM== Brad Kahler also did this awhile back on a Spitfire 4, and he put up a web page at: --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 24 18:17:54 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:17:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR trips In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <217101c7ce51$3f0dcb90$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Somebody else installed a cruise of some sort but I don't remember > who. Rumor has it that Herman finally installed a 'real' cruise control, instead of the bicycle lever he has used for so many years. Doubt he was there, but one of our past club presidents, Brian Kemp has also had cruise control on his TR6 for many years. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr6parts at earthlink.net Tue Jul 24 18:35:51 2007 From: tr6parts at earthlink.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 20:35:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR trips References: <200707242024.l6OKOhu4197094@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <009901c7ce54$6484ada0$e7d4ff04@alan> That was Herman Van Acker TR250, AKA 5-speed conversion. He had that shifter on his emergency brake, that held the throttle Al Salvatore ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack W. Drews" To: Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 4:24 PM Subject: [TR] VTR trips > Sorry I couldn't make it to VTR this year, but I did a related activity. > > I have very long legs and driving the TR6 on long interstate trips is > borderline painful to my throttle leg. I spent those days on the > installation of a cruise control -- a commercially available Audiovox > unit that sell for $129 retail or about $90 on eBay. It takes some > ingenuity to do it, but its appearance is not overly obtrusive and it > works wonderfully. It would work on the whole TR range, TR2 to TR6. > > Somebody else installed a cruise of some sort but I don't remember > who. If there is enough interest I'll try to create a way to show > pictures, etc. > > uncle jack > > > > ------------------------------------------------ > No Virus Found In This Message > Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net > _______________________________________________ > tr6parts at earthlink.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.9/907 - Release Date: 7/18/2007 > 3:30 PM From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Jul 24 19:42:25 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 21:42:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hood liner and Really Really Dumb References: <002401c7ce4c$a7fa17d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <002501c7ce5d$0dd91780$df227247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Bob, your post has I'm sure made most of the list members laugh out loud, not sure if it was because it's funnie or if all of us remember doing similar stunts just that your posting for the world to see, good seeing you and the wife again after so many years, glad both are safely home. "FT" ================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 7:44 PM Subject: [TR] Hood liner and Really Really Dumb > OK, so I installed the hood liner > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HoodLiner.htm) a few months ago and it > fell > off because I used the wrong adhesive but Bob Budd sent me a new one at no > cost. Great customer service. Reinstall it with the correct adhesive and > it's stuck there forever now. So last week before leaving VTR for the > drive > home I check the oil, it's down a smidge and I've got a smidge in one > bottle. Top it off, check the level, toss the bottle out and close the > hood. > Drive for 2 hours up the Jersey Turnpike and the Garden State Pkwy and > stop > for a break at a rest area. Pop the hood to check on a small coolant leak > I > developed and...........What the @$%#....there's oil everywhere.....the > hood > liner is covered, as is the engine bay.........and there sitting on the > battery is the oil filler cap smiling at me. What a mess. What a dummy. > Luckily it was all splatter and no quantity lost as I didn't even have to > add any oil. Anyhow, yesterday I cleaned the engine bay and took the old > hood liner that fell off and covered a 10" circle with oil and let it sit > overnight. Today I hit the spot with "Greased Lighting", wiped it up, > rinsed > with water and there's absolutely no evidence of oil. So I did the same > with > the liner on the car and it came out looking like new. I couldn't believe > it. Bob states on his site that they WILL NOT absorb oil and they won't. > Even the logo looks great. > > My wife's only comment was...."at least it didn't happen on the way TO the > VTR Convention" :-) > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 > 7:45 PM > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From brad.kahler at 141.com Tue Jul 24 20:25:37 2007 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 21:25:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] VTR trips In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46A6B4A1.3040709@141.com> I installed the system on my Spitfire about 6 months before leaving for Portland Maine and the 99 convention. In conversations with Bud who was going to travel with me he mentioned he would like to install a cruise control system as well. If I remember correctly I bought the parts and shipped them to him so he could install it. It worked well for him on the trip to Maine and he's been using it ever since. The reversed OD escutcheon worked pretty well. Its hard to tell that the cruise wasn't factory installed. The only thing I had to do was to epoxy a washer on the back side of the escutcheon to hold the cruise stalk in the proper position because the hole in the escutcheon was slightly to large in diameter. Worked quite well by the way! Henry Frye and I tried to use the cruise during the TSD rally without a whole lot of success, but hey, it was worth a try! Brad ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 7/24/2007 4:25:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > vinttr4 at geneseo.net writes: > > I spent those days on the > installation of a cruise control -- a commercially available Audiovox > unit that sell for $129 retail or about $90 on eBay. It takes some > ingenuity to do it, but its appearance is not overly obtrusive and it > works wonderfully. It would work on the whole TR range, TR2 to TR6. > > Somebody else installed a cruise of some sort but I don't remember > who. > > > ==AM== > Brad Kahler also did this awhile back on a Spitfire 4, and he put up a web > page at: > > > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, > Triumph Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and > Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ > (http://triumph-herald.us/) > > > > ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at > http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour > _______________________________________________ > brad.kahler at 141.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jul 24 20:37:30 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 22:37:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hood liner and Really Really Dumb In-Reply-To: <002501c7ce5d$0dd91780$df227247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <002401c7ce4c$a7fa17d0$210110ac@bobspc> <002501c7ce5d$0dd91780$df227247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <004101c7ce64$c0f48410$210110ac@bobspc> Great seeing you too Fred.... And walking on two legs! You look as young as you did in 1999! And congratulations on the well deserved award. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fred thomas Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 9:42 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] Hood liner and Really Really Dumb Bob, your post has I'm sure made most of the list members laugh out loud, not sure if it was because it's funnie or if all of us remember doing similar stunts just that your posting for the world to see, good seeing you and the wife again after so many years, glad both are safely home. "FT" ============================================================================ ====== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 7:44 PM Subject: [TR] Hood liner and Really Really Dumb > OK, so I installed the hood liner > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HoodLiner.htm) a few months ago and it > fell off because I used the wrong adhesive but Bob Budd sent me a new > one at no cost. Great customer service. Reinstall it with the correct > adhesive and it's stuck there forever now. So last week before leaving > VTR for the drive home I check the oil, it's down a smidge and I've > got a smidge in one bottle. Top it off, check the level, toss the > bottle out and close the hood. > Drive for 2 hours up the Jersey Turnpike and the Garden State Pkwy and > stop for a break at a rest area. Pop the hood to check on a small > coolant leak I developed and...........What the @$%#....there's oil > everywhere.....the hood liner is covered, as is the engine > bay.........and there sitting on the battery is the oil filler cap > smiling at me. What a mess. What a dummy. > Luckily it was all splatter and no quantity lost as I didn't even have > to add any oil. Anyhow, yesterday I cleaned the engine bay and took > the old hood liner that fell off and covered a 10" circle with oil and > let it sit overnight. Today I hit the spot with "Greased Lighting", > wiped it up, rinsed with water and there's absolutely no evidence of > oil. So I did the same with the liner on the car and it came out > looking like new. I couldn't believe it. Bob states on his site that > they WILL NOT absorb oil and they won't. > Even the logo looks great. > > My wife's only comment was...."at least it didn't happen on the way TO > the VTR Convention" :-) > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: > 7/23/2007 > 7:45 PM > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > _______________________________________________ > frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jul 24 20:42:57 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 22:42:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR trips In-Reply-To: <46A6B4A1.3040709@141.com> References: <46A6B4A1.3040709@141.com> Message-ID: <004201c7ce65$8378a890$210110ac@bobspc> Henry Frye.........the last time I saw Henry was when he came to my house and picked up my old rims to use for his SCCA rain tires. The time before that was when we met for the caravan to Portland VTR in '99. A real nice guy. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 10:26 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] VTR trips I installed the system on my Spitfire about 6 months before leaving for Portland Maine and the 99 convention. In conversations with Bud who was going to travel with me he mentioned he would like to install a cruise control system as well. If I remember correctly I bought the parts and shipped them to him so he could install it. It worked well for him on the trip to Maine and he's been using it ever since. The reversed OD escutcheon worked pretty well. Its hard to tell that the cruise wasn't factory installed. The only thing I had to do was to epoxy a washer on the back side of the escutcheon to hold the cruise stalk in the proper position because the hole in the escutcheon was slightly to large in diameter. Worked quite well by the way! Henry Frye and I tried to use the cruise during the TSD rally without a whole lot of success, but hey, it was worth a try! Brad ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 7/24/2007 4:25:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > vinttr4 at geneseo.net writes: > > I spent those days on the > installation of a cruise control -- a commercially available Audiovox > unit that sell for $129 retail or about $90 on eBay. It takes some > ingenuity to do it, but its appearance is not overly obtrusive and it > works wonderfully. It would work on the whole TR range, TR2 to TR6. > > Somebody else installed a cruise of some sort but I don't remember > who. > > > ==AM== > Brad Kahler also did this awhile back on a Spitfire 4, and he put up a > web page at: > > > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, > Triumph Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph > Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ > (http://triumph-herald.us/) > > > > ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new > AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour > _______________________________________________ > brad.kahler at 141.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Jul 24 21:06:32 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 03:06:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems In-Reply-To: Message-ID: If an email falls in the forest does it make a sound? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_hotmailtextlink2 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Jul 24 21:09:45 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 03:09:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems In-Reply-To: <211701c7ce3e$481a8420$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: >Here's another riddle for you though : What does it mean when people stay >with the worst ISP in the history of the Internet ? It means they are married. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_hotmailtextlink2 From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Jul 24 21:13:12 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 23:13:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a 3A front cam bearing References: Message-ID: <002801c7ce69$bcc89b60$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Sure. $20, including shipping. Ed From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jul 24 22:17:18 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 22:17:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46A6CECE.1090709@bradakis.com> > What does it mean when people stay with the worst ISP in the history of the Internet ? They are probably the kind of folks that think Paris Hilton is newsworthy and McDonalds sells healthy food. It probably won't be too much longer before I just flat out refuse to allow any email traffic to or from AOL on Team.Net servers. mjb. From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Jul 25 05:03:53 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 04:03:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <46A687EE.3010509@tscusa.org> References: <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <46A569FF.9020204@tscusa.org> <205801c7ce0d$a24c3af0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> <46A646C2.70101@tscusa.org> <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <3.0.4.32.20070725040353.00e8caf0@pop.west.cox.net> Yeah, My wife and I will be going, although I debated about it. Laughlin isn't one of our favorite places since we don't really gamble - and that's about all there is to do there - Still up in the air about witch car to take though - Interestingly enough, we got a better rate booking directly through the hotel, and not using the Tuirmphest "discount" - go figure! Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA 72 V6 Spitfire 70 Spitfire 70 GT6+ *******************original message********************** >Anyone going to Triumphest this year in Laughlin NV?? We are planning >on it, with some more Stagtivities for all you West Coast drivers. > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jul 25 05:37:42 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 07:37:42 EDT Subject: [TR] Looking for a 3A front cam bearing Message-ID: This is the front, bolt on bearing I am looking for, not the pressed in bearings. Are we talking about the same thing? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 25 05:50:01 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 07:50:01 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 5:02:43 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Maximillian Meen. > Oh, yeah, that's right. MAAAAAAX!!!! From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 25 05:56:56 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 07:56:56 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 awards - where on VTR's website?? AND VTR awards Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 5:53:21 PM Central Daylight Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > You need to add some "kill stickers" on your 8's driver door - one green > cone, one yellow cone. Did you kill any orange ones, or just maim > them?? ;-) > Neither. But I gave them a good scare. I think there were some confused cones after a couple of runs. I know there were some confused course workers. Dave From aredding at mail.com Wed Jul 25 05:54:57 2007 From: aredding at mail.com (Alex Redding) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 06:54:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Really dumb: a solution Message-ID: <20070725115458.210DA83986@ws1-2a.us4.outblaze.com> When you remove the oil cap, place it on the hood latch thus preventing you from closing the hood w/o replacing the cap. HTH Alex From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 25 06:00:16 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 08:00:16 EDT Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 5:58:58 PM Central Daylight Time, ZinkZ10C at aol.com writes: > In my case, no wife = never wrong. > Well, my wife says I don't pay attention. At least, that's what I think she said. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 25 06:18:18 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 08:18:18 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR trips Message-ID: In a message dated 7/24/2007 7:18:22 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Rumor has it that Herman finally installed a 'real' cruise control, instead > of the bicycle lever he has used for so many years. Perhaps he has but the old bicycle control is still mounted to his brake handle. maybe that now controls his beer cooler. ;-) > > Doubt he was there, but one of our past club presidents, Brian Kemp has also > had cruise control on his TR6 for many years. I installed one on my TR6 years ago ('99 or so) The unit is a piece of junk but it still is nice to have at times. Dave From jmerone at rocketmail.com Wed Jul 25 06:36:00 2007 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 05:36:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Henry Frye Message-ID: <458557.33958.qm@web30914.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Henry used to be quite a regular on this list before puchasing a TR4 vintage racer a few years back and seeing the strong beckoning light really going fast. He was even mentioned (along with Bob Lang) in the issue of Hemmings Sport and Exotic that they handed out at VTR. Seems that he won a race at the Triumph races held earlier this year at Road America. He and his wife are part of a good group who make it up to Stowe and the British Invasion each September. There's always a party going on behind their Stag. And I suspect he still lurks out there on this list from time to time. Joe Merone CF18928 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jul 25 06:44:52 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 08:44:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: <000001c7ceb9$9b480b10$210110ac@bobspc> Ok so gas is over $3/gallon and now they want us to inflate our tires with nitrogen? My insurance company sends a monthly newsletter and this month it had an article of inflating your tires with nitrogen. There's lots of references to using nitrogen at www.tirereview.com and another article about it at http://tinyurl.com/yv998x Evidently this practice has been used for years by the aerospace industry and professional race car drivers. So....has anybody ever tried this? Now helium I could understand.....make the car lighter, less rolling resistance, maybe float from place to place.....just kidding ;-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Jul 25 06:58:45 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 08:58:45 EDT Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: It seems to me like the biggest threat we have to tire life is age, not wear. My TR3 has a beautiful like new set of Michelins, but they're 10 years old. Michelins tells me 6 years is the limit, although if there is no deterioration in the carcass (inside) they may be ok a little longer sinced they are inside and out of sunlight, but that I should dismount them and check inside annually. My Jaguar tires are Dunlops, but they are 7 years old now. They will all get replaced in time just due to age. I have had no problem with inflation. When I was in Naval Aviation (a long time ago) nitrogen was being used as I recall because of fire hazards with air at very high pressures and temperatures in aircraft tires Mike Moore . ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jul 25 07:01:15 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:01:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: <072520071301.8068.46A7499B00090C1400001F8422007348409D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Barry Schwartz > Yeah, My wife and I will be going, although I debated about it. Laughlin > isn't one of our favorite places since we don't really gamble - and that's > about all there is to do there - In 2002, Minnesota Triumphs hosted the VTR in at the Treasure Island casino. Sue and I figured we might do some light-weight gambling here and there. At the end of the convention, we compared notes and realized that neither one of us had dropped a nickel in a slot machine all week. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From Harlyred1 at aol.com Wed Jul 25 08:07:55 2007 From: Harlyred1 at aol.com (Harlyred1 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:07:55 EDT Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: Nitrogen doesn't react to heat and cold, ergo, the psi remains constant. ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From bdischer at blakedischer.com Wed Jul 25 08:08:56 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:08:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] 2007 VTR Convention Concours Awards List Message-ID: <010201c7cec5$5880be60$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> As I receive the final awards lists from Delaware Valley Triumphs, I'll post them on the VTR site. The Concours and Special Awards are posted at http://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/conventions/2007/. Cheers, Blake Discher Interim Webmaster <--- I gotta' give up this job, anyone want to step up? From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Jul 25 08:14:44 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 07:14:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <000001c7ceb9$9b480b10$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c7ceb9$9b480b10$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: I was under the impression that the perceived advantage of Nitrogen was that the tire would hold pressure longer, hence lessen the likelihood of driving with underinflated tires. I think Costco uses Nitrogen when they inflate tires purchased or serviced there. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 5:44 AM Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? > Ok so gas is over $3/gallon and now they want us to inflate our tires with > nitrogen? From peb3 at cornell.edu Wed Jul 25 08:31:31 2007 From: peb3 at cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:31:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 10:07 AM -0400 7/25/07, Harlyred1 at aol.com wrote: >Nitrogen doesn't react to heat and cold, ergo, the psi remains constant. Well, sort of. The biggest drawback to using atmospheric air is the water vapor content. Water vapor expands and contracts with temperature change more than other gasses. Dry nitrogen is more stable. -- Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) Middlebury Center, PA (visit our new location!) '71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Wed Jul 25 08:35:55 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 09:35:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200707251436.l6PEa60v427338@ns3.geneseo.net> If one desired to do this, where would you get the nitrogen and how would you set up to use it? At 09:31 AM 7/25/2007, you wrote: >At 10:07 AM -0400 7/25/07, Harlyred1 at aol.com wrote: > >Nitrogen doesn't react to heat and cold, ergo, the psi remains constant. > >Well, sort of. The biggest drawback to using atmospheric air is the >water vapor content. Water vapor expands and contracts with >temperature change more than other gasses. Dry nitrogen is more >stable. >-- >Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) >Middlebury Center, PA (visit our new location!) >'71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Wed Jul 25 08:36:21 2007 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 07:36:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Looking for a 3A front cam bearing Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0BA44ECD@kb1.mossmotors.com> >Its like a month and a half backordered from all the >usual sources. Full cam bearing sets are readily available for about $30.00 Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 Daily Driver From mmarr at notwires.com Wed Jul 25 08:40:43 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 09:40:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? References: Message-ID: <002701c7cec9$c8278510$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > Nitrogen doesn't react to heat and cold, ergo, the psi remains constant. > I don't believe this is true. Nitrogen is a gas and at the kinds of pressures we are talking about it can be considered an ideal gas, with pressure, temperature and volume expressed according to the relationship: pV = NRT where p is the absolute pressure, (lbs/sq ft), V is the volume of gas (cu ft), N is the number of Moles of gas, R is the universal gas constant and T is the absolute temperature, degR. In that air is about 79% Nitrogen, I would expect Nitrogen to behave very similarly to air regarding pressure changes due to temperature differences. Mike From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jul 25 08:36:31 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:36:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <000001c7ceb9$9b480b10$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Hi, Nitrogen from a tank is very DRY, so when your tire wamrs up, you don't get a ton of pressure build-up. Depending on the tires you run and the pressures that you run at, this can make a HUGE difference in handling. I do not use nitrogen, but I've given it serious thought. The only downside is that a tank from the gas company or welding supply isn't exactly free, but it's enough to fill your tire many times and even run the occasional air tool, if you have the need. Use in well ventilated places! rml ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Wed Jul 25 08:47:15 2007 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 07:47:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Looking for a 3A front cam bearing Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0BA44ED1@kb1.mossmotors.com> >This is the front, bolt on bearing I am looking for, not the pressed in >bearings. Sorry I am on digest and sometimes answer too soon. Moss in NJ is expecting four of those over the next week or two. Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 daily driver From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Jul 25 09:28:17 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 11:28:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: <20070725112817.AAW47849@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> > Nitrogen doesn't react to heat and cold, ergo, the psi > remains constant. Really? I never met a gas that didn't obey Charles' and Boyle's Laws. Or all the various Laws of Thermodynamics neither too. -- Jim Muller From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Jul 25 10:44:41 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 12:44:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: <380-220077325164441557@M2W030.mail2web.com> Actually the main reason to use Nitrogen in a vehicle, that is revelant to us drivers (in layman's terms), is that the molecules for nitrogen are basically larger, and thus do not escape through the tires as does regular "air". As such, tire pressure remains "constant" for a MUCH longer period of time. This results in a more or less stable pressure reading over a longer period of time than just filling the tires with compressed air. This "can" result in better gas milage, tire wear, etc. It also has another benefit of not containing any harmful elements (to the rubber compounds in tires anyway) , thus prolonging the life (at least the inside) of the tire. Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jul 25 10:55:03 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 09:55:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <002701c7cec9$c8278510$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> References: <002701c7cec9$c8278510$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <00a401c7cedc$8b9d7e70$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I don't believe this is true. Nitrogen is a gas and at the kinds of > pressures we are talking about it can be considered an ideal > gas, with > pressure, temperature and volume expressed according to the > relationship: > > pV = NRT I agree. However, there may be at least some truth to the claim that the pressure changes less with dry nitrogen than with wet air. Water vapor doesn't obey the ideal gas law very well, especially when it's saturated as can easily happen in a tire. And since it's difficult to know how much water vapor you got, it's also more difficult to predict how it will behave over temperature. I make it a habit to always waste a little air when I use a service station hose. More often than not, it will spit liquid water. And liquid water doesn't obey the ideal gas law at all. No, I don't run nitrogen in my tires. It just doesn't matter that much to me if they go to 41 psi hot or 42. If I were a serious racer though, it might be different. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jul 25 11:04:22 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:04:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? References: <380-220077325164441557@M2W030.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <005901c7cedd$d9928160$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I say, "USE Hydrogen or Helium". It reduces the unsprung weight! :) Joe C. From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jul 25 10:57:08 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:57:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR-3 Apreciation Message-ID: <20070725165720.D70C8187A30@autox.team.net> File this under woulda, coulda, shoulda.... Found these two 'For Sale' ads in the May 1974 issue of the TSOA Newsletter. Gee, if I only had $600 in 1974! If I can get this kind of appreciation over the next 30 years I'll be a happy camper. Bill B '58 TR3 TS/30766 LO (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" 1956 TR3. Small grille with O/D (restorable). 1957 TR3 can used for parts. 1958 TR3 with wire wheels (driven every day). Hard top for TR3. Will sell all three one price-$600., including hard top. Call if interested: Harold Knasel, 1315 Pythian 1961 TR3, runs good w/hard top, soft top side curtains and tonneau cover. Parts car and an extra engine and o.d. trans. and rear end. $650. for all. R. M. Vincent, Box 92, Lonisville,Neb. 68037. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.16/914 - Release Date: 7/23/2007 7:45 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/918 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 2:55 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jul 25 10:58:55 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 09:58:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: References: <000001c7ceb9$9b480b10$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <00a501c7cedd$1652d510$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I think Costco uses Nitrogen when they inflate tires > purchased or serviced there. Nitrogen has been pushed to all the tire stores as a marketing device. For example : http://www.irtools.com/products/nitrogen/ Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jul 25 11:03:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:03:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <380-220077325164441557@M2W030.mail2web.com> References: <380-220077325164441557@M2W030.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <00ab01c7cedd$c7c3f130$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Actually the main reason to use Nitrogen in a vehicle, that > is revelant to > us drivers (in layman's terms), is that the molecules for nitrogen are > basically larger, and thus do not escape through the tires as > does regular "air". Even if those claims are totally true (which I doubt), the claimed difference is minimal. And pretty much vanishes the first time you check your tires. > It also has another benefit of not containing any harmful > elements (to the > rubber compounds in tires anyway) , thus prolonging the life > (at least the > inside) of the tire. Ever see a tire wear out on the inside first ? Next they'll be selling us special alloy hats (made of something suspiciously similar to aluminum foil) to stop the cosmic rays from damaging our brains. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jul 25 11:07:12 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 11:07:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] FW: o/d unit wanted Message-ID: <20070725170723.20EF1187A15@autox.team.net> Hello List, My BHT cert says I should have o/d unit on my TR3.... but alas, it is not there. Anyone with a good source and some price guidance on finding a good used one, and/or rebuilding same? If I understand correctly, the type-A unit was used Triumphs up through TR-6? Thx, Bill B '58 TR3A TS/30766 L(O) (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR is better that a good day at the golfcourse!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/918 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 2:55 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/918 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 2:55 PM From fpgowash at cox.net Wed Jul 25 11:11:42 2007 From: fpgowash at cox.net (Francis P. Gowash) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:11:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems Message-ID: >They are probably the kind of folks that think Paris Hilton is newsworthy and McDonalds sells healthy food. It probably won't be too much longer before I just flat out refuse to allow any email traffic to or from AOL on Team.Net servers. mjb.< Since the last group of posts received here are averaging 20% or so AOL subscribers it seems like a large membership portion that would be involved. What type of problems are being encountered by the Team.net servers? I for one am just curious. Thanks, Fran 58 TR3A From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Jul 25 11:13:18 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:13:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: <20070725131318.AAW79520@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> > Actually the main reason to use Nitrogen in a vehicle, that > is revelant to us drivers (in layman's terms), is that the > molecules for nitrogen are basically larger, and thus do > not escape through the tires as does regular "air". If you'd change the air in your tires every 15,000 miles like it says in the manual the air wouldn't get stale and you'd always start with a fresh charge. -- Jim Muller You can feel the difference. Really! From tedtsimx at bright.net Wed Jul 25 11:11:36 2007 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:11:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? References: <200707251436.l6PEa60v427338@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <46A78448.6080108@bright.net> Jack and list. We always used nitrogen in our race tires. We would normally have two 2500 psi nitrogen bottles. One fed only the tires. The other ran air guns. Tire pressure and diameter changes with nitrogen were minimal. Not as much pressure growth and lower heat since water was not present. Overkill for street but a must for a race effort. Granted, we had a contract with Goodyear and had our own tire engineer, but we still did everything we could to help the tires. No growth from air made it more predictable. Ted Jack W. Drews wrote: >If one desired to do this, where would you get the nitrogen and how >would you set up to use it? > >At 09:31 AM 7/25/2007, you wrote: > > >>At 10:07 AM -0400 7/25/07, Harlyred1 at aol.com wrote: >> >> >>>Nitrogen doesn't react to heat and cold, ergo, the psi remains constant. >>> >>> >>Well, sort of. The biggest drawback to using atmospheric air is the >>water vapor content. Water vapor expands and contracts with >>temperature change more than other gasses. Dry nitrogen is more >>stable. >>-- >>Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) >>Middlebury Center, PA (visit our new location!) >>'71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) >>_______________________________________________ >>vinttr4 at geneseo.net >> >>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >>http://www.vtr.org >> >>Triumphs mailing list >>Triumphs at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> > >uncle jack > > > >------------------------------------------------ >No Virus Found In This Message >Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net >_______________________________________________ >tedtsimx at bright.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 25 11:14:33 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:14:33 EDT Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: In a message dated 7/25/2007 11:57:22 AM Central Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > I say, "USE Hydrogen or Helium". It reduces the unsprung weight! :) > Is that how you float through the curves, Joe? Dave From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Jul 25 11:17:56 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:17:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Re: Nitrogen In-Reply-To: References: <2366917.1185369787901.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C06272854@exchange.terra-incognita.net> I heard that you could buy that special mixture dry for instruments and it had the same benefit as the 100% stuff. Mark -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: July 25, 2007 11:10 AM To: Kevin McNelis; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Re: Nitrogen Kevin: I have found that adding about 16% oxygen to the mix reduces toxicity, making it much safer to work with. Safety first! Running 78/16 and LOVING it. Vance -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Kevin McNelis Sent: July 25, 2007 6:23 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Re: Nitrogen Hey, I am here to attest! I have been running all my tires on 78% nitrogen for YEARS, and I LOVE IT! It is easy to obtain, cheap, and it works! I have heard of using 100% nitrogen, but that is too expensive for my tastes. I find that a mix of about 78% nitrogen plus a smattering of miscellaneous other gasses works just fine for me. From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jul 25 11:21:06 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 11:21:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <00ab01c7cedd$c7c3f130$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <20070725172117.C4077187AE9@autox.team.net> All, this has be a facinating discussion to sit in on. One question: I have wires and therefore tubes so will the use of these exotic gases make any difference to me? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L(O) (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 11:04 AM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? > Actually the main reason to use Nitrogen in a vehicle, that is > revelant to us drivers (in layman's terms), is that the molecules for > nitrogen are basically larger, and thus do not escape through the > tires as does regular "air". Even if those claims are totally true (which I doubt), the claimed difference is minimal. And pretty much vanishes the first time you check your tires. > It also has another benefit of not containing any harmful elements (to > the rubber compounds in tires anyway) , thus prolonging the life (at > least the > inside) of the tire. Ever see a tire wear out on the inside first ? Next they'll be selling us special alloy hats (made of something suspiciously similar to aluminum foil) to stop the cosmic rays from damaging our brains. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/918 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 2:55 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/918 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 2:55 PM From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jul 25 11:44:42 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:44:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? References: Message-ID: <007a01c7cee3$7bca44e0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Couldn't you tell the difference when you drove Tiny Tim? Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:14 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? > In a message dated 7/25/2007 11:57:22 AM Central Daylight Time, > spitlist at cox.net writes: > > I say, "USE Hydrogen or Helium". It reduces the unsprung weight! :) > > > Is that how you float through the curves, Joe? > > Dave From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Jul 25 11:39:10 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:39:10 EDT Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: In a message dated 7/25/2007 10:27:12 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: All, this has be a facinating discussion to sit in on. One question: I have wires and therefore tubes so will the use of these exotic gases make any difference to me? Water will lower your CG considerably. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Wed Jul 25 11:39:30 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:39:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840BE@mail1.sr.local> PUSH THE BUTTON MAAX!!!!!! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 4:50 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In a message dated 7/24/2007 5:02:43 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Maximillian Meen. > Oh, yeah, that's right. MAAAAAAX!!!! _______________________________________________ dpaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Wed Jul 25 11:40:56 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:40:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Message-ID: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840BF@mail1.sr.local> PUSH THE BUTTON MAAX!!!!!! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 4:50 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In a message dated 7/24/2007 5:02:43 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Maximillian Meen. > Oh, yeah, that's right. MAAAAAAX!!!! _______________________________________________ d From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Wed Jul 25 11:50:21 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:50:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840C0@mail1.sr.local> Considering that the atmosphere is 79% nitrogen I don't believe that a great deal of ventilation is necessary. Deano Hi, Nitrogen from a tank is very DRY, so when your tire wamrs up, you don't get a ton of pressure build-up. Depending on the tires you run and the pressures that you run at, this can make a HUGE difference in handling. I do not use nitrogen, but I've given it serious thought. The only downside is that a tank from the gas company or welding supply isn't exactly free, but it's enough to fill your tire many times and even run the occasional air tool, if you have the need. Use in well ventilated places! From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Wed Jul 25 11:53:30 2007 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:53:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488FE7F4DA@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> If you used hydrogen, you'd have to name the car "Hindenburg"!! :oD Bill S. 2005 Lotus Elise 1968 Triumph TR-250 1965 Sunbeam Tiger 1965 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III www.TR-250.com Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows... -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wsteinman=pogolaw.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wsteinman=pogolaw.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 1:15 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; v6spitfireguy at cox.net Subject: Re: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In a message dated 7/25/2007 11:57:22 AM Central Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > I say, "USE Hydrogen or Helium". It reduces the unsprung weight! :) > Is that how you float through the curves, Joe? Dave _______________________________________________ wsteinman at pogolaw.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jul 25 12:03:31 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 11:03:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? References: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488FE7F4DA@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> Message-ID: <00aa01c7cee6$1c861e20$2d02a8c0@Belkin> It's called: "An emergency GREEN fuel source". :) Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steinman, Bill" To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" ; Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:53 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? > If you used hydrogen, you'd have to name the car "Hindenburg"!! :oD > > Bill S. > 2005 Lotus Elise > 1968 Triumph TR-250 > 1965 Sunbeam Tiger > 1965 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III > www.TR-250.com From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Jul 25 12:09:34 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:09:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: <20070725140934.AAW96028@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> > If you used hydrogen, you'd have to name the car "Hindenburg"!! I bet it would be a real blast to drive. -- Jim Muller From acs25m at swbell.net Wed Jul 25 12:10:21 2007 From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:10:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C06272854@exchange.terra-incognita.net> References: <2366917.1185369787901.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu> <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C06272854@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <002501c7cee7$110cfea0$e600a8c0@computerroom> HI all, I worked for the telephone company as a cable splicer for 38 years. We used nitrogen tanks all the time for airing up our cables as well as our impact tools. I don't know when the practice started but had been around a long time when I was still wet behind the ears. Any time we had a truck tire that was low we would fill it from one of our nitrogen tanks(We normally carried two tanks on each truck in pull out drawers). A normal tire would stay inflated longer on the nitrogen than it would on regular compressed air, all else being equal. That is not to say that the pressure would never change. It would with the outside air temperature as do almost all gasses. The thing with nitrogen is that it's not detrimental to the rubber itself since it is an inert gas. It also happens that the nitrogen molecules are larger than oxygen molecules and therefore don't escape as easily. I know this from working with it for almost forty years. John R Maneke From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Wed Jul 25 12:32:58 2007 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:32:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <20070725140934.AAW96028@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488FE7F4E0@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> *groan* -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wsteinman=pogolaw.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wsteinman=pogolaw.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 2:10 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? > If you used hydrogen, you'd have to name the car "Hindenburg"!! I bet it would be a real blast to drive. -- Jim Muller _______________________________________________ wsteinman at pogolaw.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From lmtr4a at ctlnet.com Wed Jul 25 13:53:47 2007 From: lmtr4a at ctlnet.com (Lou Metelko) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:53:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: o/d unit wanted References: <20070725170723.20EF1187A15@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <016201c7cef6$5ff95180$c673fd04@y3h3b7> ----- Original Message ----- From: "wbeech" To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 12:07 PM Subject: [TR] FW: o/d unit wanted > Hello List, > > My BHT cert says I should have o/d unit on my TR3.... but alas, it is not > there. Anyone with a good source and some price guidance on finding a good > used one, and/or rebuilding same? Try John Esposito at Quantum Mechanics in Monroe, Connecticut. John is simply the best at rebuilding British drive train components. He often has O/Ds for sale. Phone / 203-459-9612 - Email quantumechan at earthlink.net Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana A very satisfied customer From fishplate at charter.net Wed Jul 25 12:54:40 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 11:54:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: <1511951409.1185389680974.JavaMail.root@fepweb06> ---- "Paige wrote: > Considering that the atmosphere is 79% nitrogen I don't believe that a > great deal of ventilation is necessary. The problem is not the nitrogen, but the lack of oxygen. I've used liquid nitrogen for a project, we stored the dewar in a closet. If you didn't have the door open when you dispensed it, it was like taking an express elevator to 15,000 feet above sea level. Jeff Scarbrough Athens, Ga. Spitfires and a TR6 From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Jul 25 14:23:09 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 16:23:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? References: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488FE7F4E0@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> Message-ID: <01b901c7cef9$9e6a1780$34187247@fred8kwiskhcfu> >> If you used hydrogen, you'd have to name the car "Hindenburg"!! > > I bet it would be a real blast to drive. > -- > Jim Muller ======================================================================================================= As usual Jim you are correct, but, it BLASTED" at about 500 feet, a very loud blast with a large fireball. ") ") ") "FT" From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jul 25 14:45:49 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:45:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? THINK PEOPLE In-Reply-To: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840C0@mail1.sr.local> References: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840C0@mail1.sr.local> Message-ID: <46A7B67D.4040406@tscusa.org> Paige, Dean wrote: > Considering that the atmosphere is 79% nitrogen I don't believe that a > great deal of ventilation is necessary. > > Deano > > > Hi, > > Nitrogen from a tank is very DRY, so when your tire wamrs up, you don't > get a ton of pressure build-up. Depending on the tires you run and the > pressures that you run at, this can make a HUGE difference in handling. > > I do not use nitrogen, but I've given it serious thought. The only > downside is that a tank from the gas company or welding supply isn't > exactly free, but it's enough to fill your tire many times and even run > the occasional air tool, if you have the need. > > Use in well ventilated places! > Come on people, think here. The air coming out of my compressor goes through a dryer before I use it. Not 100% dry, but at least I am not spewing water into my tires, and paint jobs. Earth gas atmosphere is about 79% nitrogen, 21% oxygen. So what some are saying here, is that eliminating the 21% of oxygen in a tire gas eliminates 100% of the heat up and expansion? PaLEEZE!! Does anyone remember their basic science and physics? Nitrogen is a gas. It's properties react just like most of the other gases in the periodic table. It can and does conduct heat to some degree. When heated, it EXPANDS! When it is cooled, it CONTRACTS! When it is super cooled, it LIQUEFIES into a liquid. When super heated, it turns into plasma. Nitrogen also does not exclude oxygen per se, but it if you purge a confined space or say a weld arc metal pool with nitrogen you push out the other air containing O2. So the only way you can suffocate by using it is if you build yourself into a sealed box and purge it with nitrogen, or you fill your SCUBA tank with it and breathe it exclusively. Nitrogen will also not exclude moisture that is already in place. When a tire is mounted on a wheel at the tire shop, guess what, it is full of non compressed air from the air atmosphere around the tire of the tire shop which is 79% nitrogen and 21% oxygen or probably less ratios and 5-10% CO. In order to eliminate the O2 from the tire, you have to evacuate or purge the tire before filling it with nitrogen. Exactly HOW do you do that considering there is only one schrader valve for air to enter or exit? The answer is you need a special valve and a special air chuck that are not installed on tires or at tire shops. Yes, compressed 100% nitrogen is indeed dry. This is supposedly why racers use it because it eliminates moisture that can accumulate in the tire and create an out of balance condition at high speeds - in theory. As far as nitrogen extending the life of the tire that is snake oil bunk. When was the last time you saw a tire dry rot from the inside out?? Over 50% of the tire is exposed to atmosphere, full light spectrum including IR and UV, road contaminates, road abrasives and chemicals, etc. As has been said, useful tire compound life is about 6 years in most cases. So the only nitrogen you need to be concerned about is the stuff your breathe and the stuff they use to make your beer smooth and frothy. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 25 14:49:38 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 16:49:38 EDT Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: In a message dated 7/25/2007 12:37:44 PM Central Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > Couldn't you tell the difference when you drove Tiny Tim? > And I thought it was the 250 HP. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 25 14:53:18 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 16:53:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: In a message dated 7/25/2007 1:10:32 PM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > >If you used hydrogen, you'd have to name the car "Hindenburg"!! > > I bet it would be a real blast to drive. > Adds a whole new dimension to the phrase "lighting up the tires." Dave From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Jul 25 14:53:53 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 16:53:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? THINK PEOPLE In-Reply-To: <46A7B67D.4040406@tscusa.org> References: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840C0@mail1.sr.local> <46A7B67D.4040406@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C06272967@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Guinness is good for you; Makes you strong... -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn A. Merrell Sent: July 25, 2007 4:46 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? THINK PEOPLE Paige, Dean wrote: > Considering that the atmosphere is 79% nitrogen I don't believe that a > great deal of ventilation is necessary. > > Deano > > > Hi, > > Nitrogen from a tank is very DRY, so when your tire wamrs up, you don't > get a ton of pressure build-up. Depending on the tires you run and the > pressures that you run at, this can make a HUGE difference in handling. > > I do not use nitrogen, but I've given it serious thought. The only > downside is that a tank from the gas company or welding supply isn't > exactly free, but it's enough to fill your tire many times and even run > the occasional air tool, if you have the need. > > Use in well ventilated places! > Come on people, think here. The air coming out of my compressor goes through a dryer before I use it. Not 100% dry, but at least I am not spewing water into my tires, and paint jobs. Earth gas atmosphere is about 79% nitrogen, 21% oxygen. So what some are saying here, is that eliminating the 21% of oxygen in a tire gas eliminates 100% of the heat up and expansion? PaLEEZE!! Does anyone remember their basic science and physics? Nitrogen is a gas. It's properties react just like most of the other gases in the periodic table. It can and does conduct heat to some degree. When heated, it EXPANDS! When it is cooled, it CONTRACTS! When it is super cooled, it LIQUEFIES into a liquid. When super heated, it turns into plasma. Nitrogen also does not exclude oxygen per se, but it if you purge a confined space or say a weld arc metal pool with nitrogen you push out the other air containing O2. So the only way you can suffocate by using it is if you build yourself into a sealed box and purge it with nitrogen, or you fill your SCUBA tank with it and breathe it exclusively. Nitrogen will also not exclude moisture that is already in place. When a tire is mounted on a wheel at the tire shop, guess what, it is full of non compressed air from the air atmosphere around the tire of the tire shop which is 79% nitrogen and 21% oxygen or probably less ratios and 5-10% CO. In order to eliminate the O2 from the tire, you have to evacuate or purge the tire before filling it with nitrogen. Exactly HOW do you do that considering there is only one schrader valve for air to enter or exit? The answer is you need a special valve and a special air chuck that are not installed on tires or at tire shops. Yes, compressed 100% nitrogen is indeed dry. This is supposedly why racers use it because it eliminates moisture that can accumulate in the tire and create an out of balance condition at high speeds - in theory. As far as nitrogen extending the life of the tire that is snake oil bunk. When was the last time you saw a tire dry rot from the inside out?? Over 50% of the tire is exposed to atmosphere, full light spectrum including IR and UV, road contaminates, road abrasives and chemicals, etc. As has been said, useful tire compound life is about 6 years in most cases. So the only nitrogen you need to be concerned about is the stuff your breathe and the stuff they use to make your beer smooth and frothy. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! _______________________________________________ mhooper at digiscreen.ca This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 25 14:58:53 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 16:58:53 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? THINK PEOPLE Message-ID: In a message dated 7/25/2007 3:54:38 PM Central Daylight Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: > Guinness is good for you; Makes you strong... > BRILLIANT! From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Jul 25 15:34:28 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:34:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: o/d unit wanted In-Reply-To: <016201c7cef6$5ff95180$c673fd04@y3h3b7> References: <20070725170723.20EF1187A15@autox.team.net> <016201c7cef6$5ff95180$c673fd04@y3h3b7> Message-ID: <5196E89356934689A19D44EC95B0C9B3@GeoPC> I got one of John's rebuilt A-Types last December and couldn't be happier with it... don't know why I waited so long. I suppose one reason I held off was there seemed to be many posts (which I deleted unread) about OD problems. Once I looked into the subject it seemed that many of those problems were either electrical or a need for adjustment. Looking at the schematic showed that the electrics on this thing are quite simple as is the basic adjustment for correct operation. John's aren't the cheapest way to go (maybe they cost the most) but mine worked fine from the get-go which, since I was wrassling it in solo, was very important to me. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lou Metelko" > > Try John Esposito at Quantum Mechanics in Monroe, Connecticut. From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jul 25 15:46:40 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 17:46:40 EDT Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: In a message dated 7/25/2007 11:57:38 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: I say, "USE Hydrogen or Helium". It reduces the unsprung weight! :) Joe C. I did use helium to reduce the weight of my tires. I got a flat on the highway and when I removed the hold down on the spare I bent over to put the wrench on the ground and the damn spare floated away leaving me stranded on the side of the road. I'm sticking with just plain old air now. (wink, wink) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From geneglenn at phoenixazcommercialproperty.com Wed Jul 25 15:42:58 2007 From: geneglenn at phoenixazcommercialproperty.com (Gene Glenn) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:42:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alloy Water Pump In-Reply-To: <20dc01c7ce34$74d44c80$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <000001c7cf04$c4b67860$6401a8c0@glen> Randall, I have a cast 6 vane pump impeller, and I have no trouble in Phoenix. I also have, as a Gift from Darryl Uprichard of Racetorations, a new milled pump impeller. The cast al. is great, and the machined one will probably be wonderful. Gene -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+geneglenn=qwest.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+geneglenn=qwest.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 1:52 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] Alloy Water Pump > My conclusion from that conversation was that adding vanes does not > necessarily improve water pump performance. Does anyone know > if there is credible > evidence that it improves cooling in this case? Improving cooling is a different matter than improving water flow. The evidence of increased water flow seems clear to me, several racers have reported increased pressure readings inside the engine. Henry Frye reported pegging a 35 psi gauge coming off the straight (but declined to mention his tach reading at the moment). Whether and how much that improves cooling is a different matter. However, on the TRactor motor, there does appear to be a problem with insufficient water movement around the #4 cylinder, which increased flow is bound to help, IMO. I've heard from several people who are also experimenting with restrictors fitted to the front water passages, for the same reason. (For example, Mordy Dunst sells head gaskets with smaller holes for the front water passages.) All this is under racing conditions though, so may or may not be applicable to the street. Higher pressure inside the head will also, at least in theory, reduce nucleate boiling near the limit, which can be important for engines modified to produce twice (or more) as much power as original. It's not even clear to me that the real difference is 6 vanes vs 4 vanes. The 6 vane pumps have more surface area on the vanes, and are finished all over, while at least some 4 vane impellers have rough sand-cast surfaces. The vanes are also curved on the 6-vane, straight on the 4-vane. Might be that a 4 vane pump built to the same vane shape and size as the 6 would work just as well. But until someone builds a pump like that, it's kind of a moot point. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. _______________________________________________ geneglenn at qwest.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jul 25 15:57:59 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 15:57:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46A7C767.4000501@tscusa.org> Sounds like Red Bull because it gives you wings!! Farmers fill their tires with antifreeze, so why not Red Bull? Maybe even Full Throttle!! Ohoh, is that stealing a registered trade mark?? DLylis at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 7/25/2007 11:57:38 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > spitlist at cox.net writes: > > I say, "USE Hydrogen or Helium". It reduces the unsprung weight! :) > > Joe C. > > > > I did use helium to reduce the weight of my tires. I got a flat on the > highway and when I removed the hold down on the spare I bent over to put the > wrench on the ground and the damn spare floated away leaving me stranded on the > side of the road. I'm sticking with just plain old air now. (wink, wink) > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From geneglenn at phoenixazcommercialproperty.com Wed Jul 25 15:55:17 2007 From: geneglenn at phoenixazcommercialproperty.com (Gene Glenn) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:55:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <000601c7cf06$7d86d410$6401a8c0@glen> Joe, Come to Triumphest on October the 11th through the 14th at the River Palms Casino and Hotel on the Colorado River in Laughlin NV for a really good, cheap time. Gene -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+geneglenn=qwest.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+geneglenn=qwest.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 12:06 PM To: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org; Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Glenn, I have to say that Detroit is far from the middle of the country. It is in fact in the north and still over 2000 miles from me in Southern AZ. I am still waiting on there being scheduled an event that is convenient for me to attend. I went to Dallas last year but that is about as far as I can travel in the limited time I can take and budget I can afford. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn A. Merrell" To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 11:36 AM Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip > Randall wrote: > > Hmm, that's an interesting point. If I want to score it next year, I'll > > have to drive to Herman's place first. Does that count ? > > > > > > Randall > > > With Detroit being in the middle of the country, it will take some > creative side trips for the distance award, sort of like departing a > week early and driving to Florida from California then up to Maine and > over through Canada. > > It also depends on how the host club scores the distance. Some have > used the shortest distance listed in the Road Atlas or computer > directions, others use the actual routes driven even if they were the > least direct. _______________________________________________ geneglenn at qwest.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jul 25 16:10:45 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 16:10:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen In-Reply-To: <002501c7cee7$110cfea0$e600a8c0@computerroom> References: <2366917.1185369787901.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu> <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C06272854@exchange.terra-incognita.net> <002501c7cee7$110cfea0$e600a8c0@computerroom> Message-ID: <46A7CA65.4050304@tscusa.org> acs25m at swbell.net wrote: > HI all, > I worked for the telephone company as a cable splicer for 38 years. We used > nitrogen tanks all the time for airing up our cables as well as our impact > tools. I don't know when the practice started but had been around a long > time when I was still wet behind the ears. Any time we had a truck tire that > was low we would fill it from one of our nitrogen tanks(We normally carried > two tanks on each truck in pull out drawers). A normal tire would stay > inflated longer on the nitrogen than it would on regular compressed air, all > else being equal. That is not to say that the pressure would never change. > It would with the outside air temperature as do almost all gasses. The thing > with nitrogen is that it's not detrimental to the rubber itself since it is > an inert gas. It also happens that the nitrogen molecules are larger than > oxygen molecules and therefore don't escape as easily. I know this from > working with it for almost forty years. > John R Maneke > Well the atomic sizes see to be fairly close: Nitrogen is 155 picometers Oxygen is 152 picometers I guess I need to go back to elementary science. Am I remembering correctly - aren't elements atomic and compounds molecular?? Anyone know how porous tire rubber compounds and wheel alloys are?? -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jul 25 16:12:04 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 15:12:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <20070725172117.C4077187AE9@autox.team.net> References: <00ab01c7cedd$c7c3f130$6a5636cc@navcom.com> <20070725172117.C4077187AE9@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <011001c7cf08$d4f962b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > All, this has be a facinating discussion to sit in on. One > question: I have > wires and therefore tubes so will the use of these exotic > gases make any difference to me? IMO, about as much difference as it would with tubeless tires. Which is to say (again IMO), some but not much. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jul 25 16:34:24 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 15:34:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen In-Reply-To: <46A7CA65.4050304@tscusa.org> References: <2366917.1185369787901.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu><641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C06272854@exchange.terra-incognita.net><002501c7cee7$110cfea0$e600a8c0@computerroom> <46A7CA65.4050304@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <012201c7cf0b$f3899b20$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I guess I need to go back to elementary science. > Am I remembering correctly - aren't elements atomic and compounds > molecular?? Generally (not always), even elements form molecules. Oxygen definitely forms O2 (meaning two atoms of oxygen per molecule) or O3 (which is ozone and rapidly degrades to O2); and ISTR that nitrogen forms N2 normally. But I don't think you can look at molecule size (or atom size) and form meaningful conclusions about permeability. At least that's not the way I remember it. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From KingR44916 at aol.com Wed Jul 25 16:35:33 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 18:35:33 EDT Subject: [TR] carbs Message-ID: i have a 76 tr6 been fussing with the carcs for a while can't seem to get it right had the dist drbuilt by advance looks good but my prob is that i can't get the mixture down.if i lift the piston slightly it wants to stall i enriched the needle as far as it will go.thought it was a vacume prob so i clamped all hoses still same thing . looked up everywhere what else effects the mixture is it possible for these needles to go bad ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 25 16:46:12 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 18:46:12 EDT Subject: [TR] carbs Message-ID: In a message dated 7/25/2007 5:39:40 PM Central Daylight Time, KingR44916 at aol.com writes: > i have a 76 tr6 been fussing with the carcs for a while can't seem to get > it > right had the dist drbuilt by advance looks good but my prob is that i can't > > get the mixture down.if i lift the piston slightly it wants to stall i > enriched > the needle as far as it will go.thought it was a vacume prob so i clamped > all > hoses still same thing . looked up everywhere what else effects the mixture > is it possible for these needles to go bad > How far are you lifting the piston? The lift the piston only works if you lift I t the prescribed amount. How far is that? Most SU's have a piston lifting pin that will lift it that amount. But your Z-S doesn't have one a piston lifting pin. That is because the needle is not trimmed for this effect to work. It worked on the old SU's because the carb designers designed it to do that. But they couldn't meet emissions with a rich setting like that so now the Lift-The-Piston method of tuning no longer works. Forget about it. The only reliable way to tune these carbs is with a CO meter (Gunson or eq). Check with your local club, someone's bound to have one. Dave From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jul 25 17:36:18 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 16:36:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <000601c7cf06$7d86d410$6401a8c0@glen> References: <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <000601c7cf06$7d86d410$6401a8c0@glen> Message-ID: <000501c7cf14$99b68640$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Haven't missed one since I moved sown her in 1999. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gene Glenn Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 2:55 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Joe, Come to Triumphest on October the 11th through the 14th at the River Palms Casino and Hotel on the Colorado River in Laughlin NV for a really good, cheap time. Gene From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jul 25 17:42:59 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 16:42:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <000501c7cf14$99b68640$2202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin><000601c7cf06$7d86d410$6401a8c0@glen> <000501c7cf14$99b68640$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <000601c7cf15$88e48910$2202a8c0@newcomputer> That should have been "Down" not sown. Even with a spell checker I somehow manage to still make typos. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 4:36 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Haven't missed one since I moved sown her in 1999. Joe From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jul 25 18:18:56 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 20:18:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <000601c7cf15$88e48910$2202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin><000601c7cf06$7d86d410$6401a8c0@glen><000501c7cf14$99b68640$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <000601c7cf15$88e48910$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <000301c7cf1a$8f6b4620$210110ac@bobspc> Actually we were wondering if you'd really sown her ;-) Oh you meant "down here".... My bad Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 7:43 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip That should have been "Down" not sown. Even with a spell checker I somehow manage to still make typos. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 4:36 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Haven't missed one since I moved sown her in 1999. Joe _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jul 25 18:28:28 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 17:28:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip In-Reply-To: <000301c7cf1a$8f6b4620$210110ac@bobspc> References: <009b01c7ce25$ba7fd4c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin><000601c7cf06$7d86d410$6401a8c0@glen><000501c7cf14$99b68640$2202a8c0@newcomputer><000601c7cf15$88e48910$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <000301c7cf1a$8f6b4620$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000d01c7cf1b$e4eb9720$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Just my wild oats! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 5:19 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Ramblings, 3900 miles round trip Actually we were wondering if you'd really sown her ;-) Oh you meant "down here".... My bad Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Jul 25 18:35:42 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 00:35:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] Contact Points Message-ID: <072620070035.4510.46A7EC5E0002C5060000119E22155934149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> All right. I don't get this. My TR3A daily driver had noticeably less power at low RPM's, but at lifted RPM's accelerated nicely. At idle, though, it dropped to about 8, rumbled for about half a minute, then decreased under 5 and wanted to stall. When I got home, I popped the distributor cap, rotated the engine to max point gap, ...and the points were still closed! (to the naked eye, anyway) How in the heck did this thing keep running???? (Adjusted the gap, and will check out the difference in performance tomorrow. Enough to make me shift to electronic ignition.) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Wed Jul 25 18:38:23 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 20:38:23 EDT Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems Message-ID: In a message dated 7/25/07 1:12:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time, fpgowash at cox.net writes: << What type of problems are being encountered by the Team.net servers? I for one am just curious. Thanks, Fran 58 TR3A >> My issue was 5 months ago AOL started adding a advertisment at the bottom of every out going e mail. This advertisment contains HTML and was rejected by the old TR software. There is no way to turn the HTML off and as a result I'm unable to post on other mailing lists. Many people have their spam settings set to refuse e mail containing HTML, so I can't contact them either. Many phone calls to AOL have gotten nowhere and the tech people have come right out and said, this is the way it is and we are not going to change. However I have seen many other AOL users still able to post, wonder why their e mail works? If it wasn't for the long established e mail addresses I have I'd change providers. Harold ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Jul 25 18:57:26 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 20:57:26 EDT Subject: [TR] test, likely still have AOL problems Message-ID: I have AOL and had this problem with the Jag list. I dunmno what version you have BUT try tight clicking your mouse, and at the very bottom you'll see a "Compose as plain text" caption. Click on that . You need to do it each time you send a plain text message. I have 8 Bst, Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jul 25 19:05:12 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 21:05:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Web Site Update Message-ID: <000401c7cf21$06dd1110$210110ac@bobspc> I just updated my site with some pictures and stuff from VTR. It's not complete so not all the links are working. If nothing else, take a look at all the personalized license plates I posted. If anyone wants their plate removed just email me. If you have a personalized plate you'd like me to post, send me a picture. It doesn't matter if you were at VTR or not. Let me know the type of Triumph it's on. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM From jlynn604 at verizon.net Wed Jul 25 20:01:20 2007 From: jlynn604 at verizon.net (Joe Lynn) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 22:01:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online Message-ID: <46A80070.3090301@verizon.net> The results of the VTR2007 Concours Show and the Special VTR awards are now available online at http://www.vtr2007.com/concoursAwards.jsp Congratulations to all of the winners! We are working on getting the Participants' Choice and Autocross results as soon as possible. All the best, Joe From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jul 25 20:25:30 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 22:25:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online In-Reply-To: <46A80070.3090301@verizon.net> References: <46A80070.3090301@verizon.net> Message-ID: <001801c7cf2c$3de866e0$210110ac@bobspc> And let's not forget those who won the web site awards!! Sorry....my car won't ever win but there were 8 web site awards....;-) Come on Joe.... Speak up! You got one too. LOL Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Lynn Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:01 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online The results of the VTR2007 Concours Show and the Special VTR awards are now available online at http://www.vtr2007.com/concoursAwards.jsp Congratulations to all of the winners! We are working on getting the Participants' Choice and Autocross results as soon as possible. All the best, Joe _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jul 25 20:29:28 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 19:29:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online In-Reply-To: <001801c7cf2c$3de866e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <46A80070.3090301@verizon.net> <001801c7cf2c$3de866e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <002601c7cf2c$ca8430c0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> I am the eternal skeptic! I won't actually believe it until I have it in my hot little hand! :) Cheers, Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 7:26 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online And let's not forget those who won the web site awards!! Sorry....my car won't ever win but there were 8 web site awards....;-) Come on Joe.... Speak up! You got one too. LOL Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Lynn Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:01 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online The results of the VTR2007 Concours Show and the Special VTR awards are now available online at http://www.vtr2007.com/concoursAwards.jsp Congratulations to all of the winners! We are working on getting the Participants' Choice and Autocross results as soon as possible. All the best, Joe _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jul 25 20:31:33 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 22:31:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online In-Reply-To: <002601c7cf2c$ca8430c0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <46A80070.3090301@verizon.net><001801c7cf2c$3de866e0$210110ac@bobspc> <002601c7cf2c$ca8430c0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <000501c7cf2d$167f06d0$210110ac@bobspc> OK... I'll take a picture of the award and send it to you! Just block out my name and add yours! LOL Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:29 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online I am the eternal skeptic! I won't actually believe it until I have it in my hot little hand! :) Cheers, Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 7:26 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online And let's not forget those who won the web site awards!! Sorry....my car won't ever win but there were 8 web site awards....;-) Come on Joe.... Speak up! You got one too. LOL Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Lynn Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:01 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online The results of the VTR2007 Concours Show and the Special VTR awards are now available online at http://www.vtr2007.com/concoursAwards.jsp Congratulations to all of the winners! We are working on getting the Participants' Choice and Autocross results as soon as possible. All the best, Joe _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jul 25 20:46:28 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 19:46:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online In-Reply-To: <000501c7cf2d$167f06d0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <46A80070.3090301@verizon.net><001801c7cf2c$3de866e0$210110ac@bobspc><002601c7cf2c$ca8430c0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <000501c7cf2d$167f06d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <003b01c7cf2f$2a7fce60$2202a8c0@newcomputer> That'll work! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 7:32 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online OK... I'll take a picture of the award and send it to you! Just block out my name and add yours! LOL From bdischer at blakedischer.com Wed Jul 25 20:47:10 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 22:47:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online In-Reply-To: <002601c7cf2c$ca8430c0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <00c601c7cf2f$44c719e0$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> Yes, you won Joe, for individual website. In a lucky twist, your's came in broken in two pieces... I say lucky (for me) because thankfully you weren't there so I didn't have to give you two pieces of fractured acrylic and a tube of super glue in front of the whole gang! I've re-ordered you one and will ship it to you. I'll pull your address from the VTR database. Cheers, Blake -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:29 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online I am the eternal skeptic! I won't actually believe it until I have it in my hot little hand! :) Cheers, Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 7:26 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online And let's not forget those who won the web site awards!! Sorry....my car won't ever win but there were 8 web site awards....;-) Come on Joe.... Speak up! You got one too. LOL Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Lynn Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 10:01 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online The results of the VTR2007 Concours Show and the Special VTR awards are now available online at http://www.vtr2007.com/concoursAwards.jsp Congratulations to all of the winners! We are working on getting the Participants' Choice and Autocross results as soon as possible. All the best, Joe _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 1:16 AM _______________________________________________ bdischer at blakedischer.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jul 25 20:50:41 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 19:50:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online In-Reply-To: <00c601c7cf2f$44c719e0$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> References: <002601c7cf2c$ca8430c0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> <00c601c7cf2f$44c719e0$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> Message-ID: <003c01c7cf2f$c1765a00$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Well, like I told Tony, If it was going to happen it was inevitable that it would happen to me. My name should be Murphy. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Blake J. Discher Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 7:47 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online Yes, you won Joe, for individual website. In a lucky twist, your's came in broken in two pieces... I say lucky (for me) because thankfully you weren't there so I didn't have to give you two pieces of fractured acrylic and a tube of super glue in front of the whole gang! I've re-ordered you one and will ship it to you. I'll pull your address from the VTR database. Cheers, Blake From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Jul 25 19:54:29 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 18:54:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Contact Points In-Reply-To: <072620070035.4510.46A7EC5E0002C5060000119E22155934149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <072620070035.4510.46A7EC5E0002C5060000119E22155934149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <01B79D224210406CB6CCA756433EA6F6@GeoPC> I guess they were opening just a little. Two things that can cause you to lose the setting are wear on the part that rides the cam (good idea to lube the cam a bit) and the adjusting screw not being tight enough. Of course a decreasing gap will also retard the timing. As the Brits say... Mind the Gap. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 5:35 PM Subject: [TR] Contact Points > ...and the points were still closed! (to the naked eye, anyway) > How in the heck did this thing keep running???? From jerryvv at adelphia.net Wed Jul 25 20:56:25 2007 From: jerryvv at adelphia.net (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 22:56:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Contact Points References: <072620070035.4510.46A7EC5E0002C5060000119E22155934149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <026b01c7cf30$8e1aa840$6401a8c0@toshibauser> Terry, a common problem; you need to put a small dab of white grease on the distributor cam to lubricate the points rubbing block. The can wear out fast otherwise. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 8:35 PM Subject: [TR] Contact Points > All right. I don't get this. My TR3A daily driver had noticeably less power at low RPM's, but at lifted RPM's accelerated nicely. At idle, though, it dropped to about 8, rumbled for about half a minute, then decreased under 5 and wanted to stall. > When I got home, I popped the distributor cap, rotated the engine to max point gap, ...and the points were still closed! (to the naked eye, anyway) > How in the heck did this thing keep running???? > (Adjusted the gap, and will check out the difference in performance tomorrow. Enough to make me shift to electronic ignition.) > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Jul 25 21:20:45 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 23:20:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? THINK PEOPLE References: Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DA8B@exchange.terra-incognita.net> ;^) ________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net on behalf of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Wed 25/07/2007 4:58 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? THINK PEOPLE In a message dated 7/25/2007 3:54:38 PM Central Daylight Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: > Guinness is good for you; Makes you strong... > BRILLIANT! _______________________________________________ mhooper at digiscreen.ca This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jul 25 21:24:50 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 21:24:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] FW: o/d unit wanted In-Reply-To: <016201c7cef6$5ff95180$c673fd04@y3h3b7> Message-ID: <20070726032502.1AA06187B5B@autox.team.net> E-Mail address is no longer active... I'll try a call later this week. Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L(O) (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lou Metelko Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 1:54 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] FW: o/d unit wanted ----- Original Message ----- From: "wbeech" To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 12:07 PM Subject: [TR] FW: o/d unit wanted > Hello List, > > My BHT cert says I should have o/d unit on my TR3.... but alas, it is not > there. Anyone with a good source and some price guidance on finding a good > used one, and/or rebuilding same? Try John Esposito at Quantum Mechanics in Monroe, Connecticut. John is simply the best at rebuilding British drive train components. He often has O/Ds for sale. Phone / 203-459-9612 - Email quantumechan at earthlink.net Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana A very satisfied customer _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/918 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 2:55 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/918 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 2:55 PM From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Jul 25 22:08:38 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 04:08:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <000001c7ceb9$9b480b10$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: I always used nitrogen to fill the tires on my stock car. It stabilizes the air pressure in the tire, no expansion from heat. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ http://newlivehotmail.com From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Jul 25 22:13:21 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 04:13:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <200707251436.l6PEa60v427338@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: >If one desired to do this, where would you get the nitrogen and how >would you set up to use it? You need to buy a tank and a regulator and have the tank filled at a welding gas supply shop. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=hmtextlinkjuly07 From cartr4a at ameritech.net Wed Jul 25 22:14:08 2007 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 21:14:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 Concours and Special Awards Results are now online In-Reply-To: <001801c7cf2c$3de866e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <488268.4539.qm@web80211.mail.mud.yahoo.com> And very nice awards they are. Mine was delivered by a member that lives close by. Thanks VTR! Jim '68 GT6 http://www.geocities.com/britishiron2000 Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: And let's not forget those who won the web site awards!! Sorry....my car won't ever win but there were 8 web site awards....;-) Come on Joe.... Speak up! You got one too. LOL Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From triumphs at consolidated.net Wed Jul 25 22:38:45 2007 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 23:38:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <200707251436.l6PEa60v427338@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: Jake: I was in that business for years. Nitrogen can be purchased at any welding supply store and you simply put a tire yoke on a high pressure gas regulator (one just like on old fashion gas welding equipment.) Ken Gano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jack W. Drews Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 9:36 AM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? If one desired to do this, where would you get the nitrogen and how would you set up to use it? At 09:31 AM 7/25/2007, you wrote: >At 10:07 AM -0400 7/25/07, Harlyred1 at aol.com wrote: > >Nitrogen doesn't react to heat and cold, ergo, the psi remains constant. > >Well, sort of. The biggest drawback to using atmospheric air is the >water vapor content. Water vapor expands and contracts with >temperature change more than other gasses. Dry nitrogen is more >stable. >-- >Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) >Middlebury Center, PA (visit our new location!) >'71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net _______________________________________________ triumphs at consolidated.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From triumphs at consolidated.net Wed Jul 25 22:43:28 2007 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 23:43:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <005901c7cedd$d9928160$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: Joe: Finally something I know a little about (I grew up in the business. :)) Hydrogen presents a fire risk. Helium is ideal, but very expensive and more subject to leak loss. I know you were just kidding, but it's rare a topic comes up that I actually know something about. My father ran a welding supply store for 50+ years and I worked there for 10+. We would have loved nothing more that a sudden rush on inert gas sales :) Ken Gano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 12:04 PM To: v6spitfireguy at cox.net; Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? I say, "USE Hydrogen or Helium". It reduces the unsprung weight! :) Joe C. _______________________________________________ triumphs at consolidated.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From portermd at zianet.com Wed Jul 25 22:50:14 2007 From: portermd at zianet.com (Michael Porter) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 22:50:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46A82806.6080300@zianet.com> Ken Gano, home wrote: > I know you were just kidding, but it's rare a topic comes up that I actually > know something about. My father ran a welding supply store for 50+ years > and I worked there for 10+. We would have loved nothing more that a sudden > rush on inert gas sales :) > Especially after that acetylene tank debacle you mentioned to me a few years ago.... :) -- Michael D. Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Jul 25 22:59:58 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 04:59:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Actually with hydrogen the liability may be heat. As the tires heat up the gas might ignite. That brings a whole new meaning to the phrase "Blowing a tire". Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Need a brain boost? Recharge with a stimulating game. Play now! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=club_hotmailtextlink1 From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jul 26 00:30:39 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 23:30:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: References: <005901c7cedd$d9928160$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <005301c7cf4e$7bb95250$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Yeah, I know. Every time I have to go to the welding supply store and get another bottle of shield gas, I realize how valuable something that you can't see really is! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ken Gano, home Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 9:43 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Joe: Finally something I know a little about (I grew up in the business. :)) Hydrogen presents a fire risk. Helium is ideal, but very expensive and more subject to leak loss. I know you were just kidding, but it's rare a topic comes up that I actually know something about. My father ran a welding supply store for 50+ years and I worked there for 10+. We would have loved nothing more that a sudden rush on inert gas sales :) Ken Gano From areich at telus.net Thu Jul 26 02:05:54 2007 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 01:05:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down Message-ID: <46A855E2.20604@telus.net> Fellow Listers !! I am going crazy with head gasket issues. I have just blown my second one in two weeks. I am thinking of putting LTD clips on my carbs and manifolds to save time taking them off and putting them on ! I am confused by the various experts that tell me: - definitely put the head gasket "smooth side up" and the other experts that tell me: - definitely put the head gasket "smooth side down" Does anybody have an old gasket with only one oil hole? If yes, is it smooth side up or down? I have put both "smooth side down" and have had troubles. I think my problems stem from overheating but not positive yet. I took the TR3A on a trip of a couple of hundred miles, over mountain passes about 4500 feet, and did get very hot! I haven't found anywhere in the shop manual to help me out. I think Haynes said "put it with the word TOP up" but of course the new Payen gaskets down have the word TOP on their gaskets I would appreciate advice and lister's expertise ... but I don't want to count the "ups" and "downs" to determine the answer Many thanks Allan Reich 1960 TR3A TS65713L From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Thu Jul 26 05:22:19 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 06:22:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] contact points solution Message-ID: <200707261122.l6QBMVdE149726@ns3.geneseo.net> Vintage racers and some long distance drivers have found that the points available from the Big Three have rubbing blocks that wear very very quickly. Some of us have gone through a set of points in a half a racing weekend. I had a set in my TR6 wear completely off on a trip of less than 100 miles. Same goes for rotors - what could possibly go wrong with a new rotor? Well, the ones from at least two of the Big Three sometimes crack and fall off, and sometimes they quit working, with no apparent visual reason. The solution to the points problem is to buy rotors from Peter Caldwell at http://www.nosimport.com/ . I think he sells Bosch, I don't think they are on his website, but he charges practically nothing for them. For points, if you can find a local parts store that gets points from the Standard company, those points are excellent and even have the little lubricant pad. I got mine at Carquest in a Carquest box, but the guys behind the counter knew who the manufacturer was. They were even listed in their desk catalog. If you want some of these an can't find them locally, I'll buy them from you and ship them to you at cost (NFI) but please send car model and your mailing address in your first email. uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jul 26 05:31:12 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 07:31:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: o/d unit wanted In-Reply-To: <20070726032502.1AA06187B5B@autox.team.net> References: <016201c7cef6$5ff95180$c673fd04@y3h3b7> <20070726032502.1AA06187B5B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001301c7cf78$79b293c0$210110ac@bobspc> Just go to their web site (http://www.quantumechanics.com/index.php) and his correct email is on the main page. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 11:25 PM To: 'Triumph Sports car discussion' Subject: Re: [TR] FW: o/d unit wanted E-Mail address is no longer active... I'll try a call later this week. Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L(O) (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lou Metelko Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 1:54 PM To: Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] FW: o/d unit wanted ----- Original Message ----- From: "wbeech" To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 12:07 PM Subject: [TR] FW: o/d unit wanted > Hello List, > > My BHT cert says I should have o/d unit on my TR3.... but alas, it is > not there. Anyone with a good source and some price guidance on > finding a good > used one, and/or rebuilding same? Try John Esposito at Quantum Mechanics in Monroe, Connecticut. John is simply the best at rebuilding British drive train components. He often has O/Ds for sale. Phone / 203-459-9612 - Email quantumechan at earthlink.net Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana A very satisfied customer _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/918 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 2:55 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/918 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 2:55 PM No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/918 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 2:55 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/918 - Release Date: 7/25/2007 2:55 PM From ms6453 at optonline.net Thu Jul 26 05:34:58 2007 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 07:34:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] contact points solution In-Reply-To: <200707261122.l6QBMVdE149726@ns3.geneseo.net> References: <200707261122.l6QBMVdE149726@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <46A886E2.3050707@optonline.net> Hi All, I have been using Standard Ignition products for over 30 years. The common TR point set is LU1617XP. These have always worked & worn flawlessly. They are even supplied with a lubricating pad. Find a local parts shop & try them. http://www.smpcorp.com/web_app/catalog/smp_bgbulk.aspx -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From Chip19474 at aol.com Thu Jul 26 06:20:36 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 08:20:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Contact Points Message-ID: In a message dated 7/25/2007 5:40:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: and the points were still closed! (to the naked eye, anyway) How in the heck did this thing keep running???? Terry, >From years of changing points it's amazing to me to see these cars running on what appears to be "no point gap". The key to your observation that the points were closed is "to the naked eye" since they must have been opening or you wouldn't be collapsing the magnetic field in the coil and causing a spark. As many responses have noted, get a good quality point set with condenser and get a good quality rotor. Use a small dab of dist shaft lube so the rubbing block won't wear down quickly. The range of point gap is .014" to .016" for proper dwell angle. I like to set new points to .016" - that way you've got a tolerance of .002" to allow for the rubbing block to eventually wear down. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jul 26 08:00:40 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 07:00:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down In-Reply-To: <46A855E2.20604@telus.net> References: <46A855E2.20604@telus.net> Message-ID: <8AE2116B5C97457E8D873160032ABD5A@GeoPC> Since you mention the Haynes manual... what are you torquing the head nuts too? My (early edition) Haynes manual says 45 lbs. This was corrected in later editions to 100-105 lbs. 45# will work if you never get the engine hot, otherwise... As for which side up... no idea. I have heard it does not matter. I always look at the old gaskey and do it the same way but cannot recall which way that is. Geo PS: The reply function seems to have changed? At least for me, used to send all repklies to the list, now they go to the sender. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allan Reich" > > I haven't found anywhere in the shop manual to help me out. I think > Haynes said "put it with the word TOP up" ... From 308gtsi at adelphia.net Thu Jul 26 08:18:36 2007 From: 308gtsi at adelphia.net (Brian Induni) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 07:18:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Door adjustment Message-ID: <001f01c7cf8f$dbb53f70$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Thanks for all the feedback on the door adjustment. As I expected, no "easy way" to get the job done, but none the less very helpful ideas. After fiddling with each door for a multitude of hours, I'm seeing it fit fairly well in the opening, and the latch lines up fine, but the rubber weather strip is making the door bind real bad. I'm using the original style (slides in to the channels welded on the body), but I'm wondering if I put it in backwards. If you look at a cross section of the strip, it looks like a "V" with one end of the V sliding in to the channel and the other free. I assumed the free side would face the door and move as needed for a good seal. Is this correct? The front edge of the door is binding too tight against the rubber, and if I move it back it doesn't line up with the latch properly. This is the case for both doors. Background: no major body was done that would affect the door opening, meaning the floors, sills, etc were all in excellent shape and not replaced. Any ideas? Brian 1967 TR4a From adcronin at ameritech.net Thu Jul 26 09:33:44 2007 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 08:33:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Mazda Miata seats in a TR 3 Message-ID: <395597.6243.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Has anyone done this conversion or know of some one who has? Any information or links would be appreciated! Dan Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 26 10:16:17 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 09:16:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down In-Reply-To: <46A855E2.20604@telus.net> References: <46A855E2.20604@telus.net> Message-ID: <022401c7cfa0$4b952110$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I would appreciate advice and lister's expertise ... but I > don't want to > count the "ups" and "downs" to determine the answer Personally, I don't believe it makes much difference. It would seem that the gasket makers don't think so either, otherwise they wouldn't have redesigned with the extra oil hole, allowing it to be fitted either way. Most likely, IMO, you have something else wrong, besides which way the gasket is fitted. I fought head gasket problems on my TR3 engine for many years, until I finally happened to check liner protrusion on both sides. Turns out they were low only on one side (!) apparently due to a manufacturing defect in the original 1956 cylinder block. The moral is to check every liner on both sides, every time. Some other tips picked up along the way : Take a new hardware store nut and spin it down the studs. Should turn easily all the way to the bottom of the threads. If it binds about 2/3 down, the stud is distorted and should be replaced. Use a straightedge and feeler gauge to check that the head surface is flat, checking in several different places and directions. I've found that my ordinary carpenter's square is straight enough. You can double-check your straightedge if you find a low spot, by moving the straightedge and seeing if the low spot moves with it. The flat washers under the head nuts are special items and are important; hardware store washers are too soft and the wrong size. If yours are missing or wrong, replace them. I believe they are now available from TRF et al. Same goes for the nuts. I wound up with a set of 'tall' nuts from BFE, but the original spec nuts are fine, IMO. Just don't use hardware store nuts (even grade 8). Get an accurate torque wrench, and follow the sequence given in the owner's manual. I like to go in 3 steps, first all to 40 ftlb, then all 80, then all 105. BTW, the owner's manual specifies that the head gasket should be installed smooth side down. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From jimbpps at cox.net Thu Jul 26 10:35:09 2007 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 09:35:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR trips In-Reply-To: <200707242024.l6OKOhu4197094@ns3.geneseo.net> References: <200707242024.l6OKOhu4197094@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <229A785DF46C47AC8269199634B79B7F@JimofficePC> I for one would be very interested in the details of your installation. This is one of the 'long term' upgrades I plan on eventually installing on my TR250. TIA and regards, Jim Jim Bauder '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack W. Drews Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 1:25 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] VTR trips Sorry I couldn't make it to VTR this year, but I did a related activity. I have very long legs and driving the TR6 on long interstate trips is borderline painful to my throttle leg. I spent those days on the installation of a cruise control -- a commercially available Audiovox unit that sell for $129 retail or about $90 on eBay. It takes some ingenuity to do it, but its appearance is not overly obtrusive and it works wonderfully. It would work on the whole TR range, TR2 to TR6. Somebody else installed a cruise of some sort but I don't remember who. If there is enough interest I'll try to create a way to show pictures, etc. uncle jack From dkspence at telus.net Thu Jul 26 11:06:17 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 11:06:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Web Site Update now vanity plates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3A817BF5-0F96-4D38-8A8A-7FBD0DD8DC6A@telus.net> Nice update Bob. Looking at the Vanity plate collection I am amazed by the creativity and lack thereof displayed. My favorites are NYTMAER and NOTANMG. But really guys, spending that much money ($200.00 in my jurisdiction) to put GT6 or TR FOUR or TR4-IRS, on the back of a car right beside the factory trim piece that says exactly the same thing is well.... redundant at best. Just my humble opinion . YMMV Thanks for posting the pics Bob. On Jul 25, 2007, at 8:32 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Date: July 25, 2007 7:05:12 PM MDT (CA) > To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" , > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: [TR] VTR Web Site Update > Reply-To: Triumph Sports car discussion > > > I just updated my site with some pictures and stuff from VTR. It's not > complete so not all the links are working. If nothing else, take a > look at > all the personalized license plates I posted. If anyone wants their > plate > removed just email me. If you have a personalized plate you'd like > me to > post, send me a picture. It doesn't matter if you were at VTR or > not. Let me > know the type of Triumph it's on. > > Thanks From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 26 11:07:03 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 10:07:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] carbs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <024a01c7cfa7$635b62d0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > if i lift the piston slightly it wants > to stall You should only be lifting it a tiny amount, like 1/32" > i enriched > the needle as far as it will go.thought it was a vacume prob > so i clamped all > hoses still same thing . Did you plug the line from the brake booster and PCV ? Also, you need to leave the bowl vent line open, as plugging it WILL affect mixture. Probably best to disconnect it from the canister, though, to be sure there is no pressure or vacuum in the line. > looked up everywhere what else > effects the mixture Main diaphragm, bypass valve diaphragm, piston binding, thermal compensator, idle air bleed, dashpot vents (both bottom and top), vacuum leaks (including throttle shaft seals), jet position in the body, needle position in the piston, and float level. Probably more I've forgotten. Oh yeah, fuel. Gasohol runs leaner than 'real' gasoline and old gas is sometimes even worse. Also worn needle, worn jet, leaking cold start valve; but generally these can only cause too-rich mixture. > is it possible for these needles to go bad Yes, but only to the rich side. Of course, it's possible someone has put the wrong needle in there. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jul 26 11:42:00 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 17:42:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] VTR Web Site Update now vanity plates Message-ID: <072620071742.3273.46A8DCE8000B3AA300000CC922070016419D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: dkspence at telus.net > But really guys, spending that much money ($200.00 in my > jurisdiction) to put GT6 or TR FOUR or TR4-IRS, on the back of a car > right beside the factory trim piece that says exactly the same thing > is well.... redundant at best. It was only $100 in Minnesota when I got my wife's plates, and Collector plates never have to be renewed, so I think TR44SUE was a pretty good deal. I have never gotten vanity plates before or since. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Jul 26 12:10:41 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 14:10:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Web Site Update now vanity plates In-Reply-To: <3A817BF5-0F96-4D38-8A8A-7FBD0DD8DC6A@telus.net> References: <3A817BF5-0F96-4D38-8A8A-7FBD0DD8DC6A@telus.net> Message-ID: <8C99DC7698FA998-B8C-1DAB@webmail-md04.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: dkspence at telus.net But really guys, spending that much money ($200.00 in my jurisdiction) to put GT6 or TR FOUR or TR4-IRS, on the back of a car right beside the factory trim piece that says exactly the same thing is well.... redundant at best. ==AM== Perhaps. But you'd be amazed at how many questions about same I was asked when I had the vanity plate on my 1970 GT6+, said plate reading "6 PLUS"! (Yes, the badges were in place on the car.) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Thu Jul 26 12:35:03 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 14:35:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Web Site Update now vanity plates Message-ID: <380-22007742618353847@M2W005.mail2web.com> That's why I thought I would be lucky that "70 GT6" was available when I was looking to register my GT6+, So for $70 it's mine... but alas, you still get, "Nice car, what is it?" - guess ya just can't win! Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) Perhaps. But you'd be amazed at how many questions about same I was asked when I had the vanity plate on my 1970 GT6+, said plate reading "6 PLUS"! (Yes, the badges were in place on the car.) -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Thu Jul 26 13:58:22 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 12:58:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840C5@mail1.sr.local> If you have ever looked closely at the film of the Hindenburg disaster you will note that the destruction of the air ship did not result from a "blast" it was a relatively slow burn from one end of the gas bag to the other. Would not actually be classified as an explosion such as a BLEVE. Boiling Liquid Expanding Vapor Explosion. Deano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 1:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In a message dated 7/25/2007 1:10:32 PM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > >If you used hydrogen, you'd have to name the car "Hindenburg"!! > > I bet it would be a real blast to drive. > Adds a whole new dimension to the phrase "lighting up the tires." Dave _______________________________________________ dpaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Jul 26 14:03:18 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 14:03:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Web Site Update now vanity plates In-Reply-To: <3A817BF5-0F96-4D38-8A8A-7FBD0DD8DC6A@telus.net> References: <3A817BF5-0F96-4D38-8A8A-7FBD0DD8DC6A@telus.net> Message-ID: <46A8FE06.1000303@tscusa.org> dkspence at telus.net wrote: > But really guys, spending that much money ($200.00 in my > jurisdiction) to put GT6 or TR FOUR or TR4-IRS, on the back of a car > right beside the factory trim piece that says exactly the same thing > is well.... redundant at best. > > Just my humble opinion . YMMV I am always amazed when I am standing next to a Triumph Stag that has a license plate showing "73 Stag" and people walk up, look at the plate, look at the TRIUMPH plinth, look at the Stag emblems that say "STAG" and then ask "What is it?" I want a a plate that says RDTHLBL -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jul 26 14:36:01 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 13:36:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Door adjustment In-Reply-To: <001f01c7cf8f$dbb53f70$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> References: <001f01c7cf8f$dbb53f70$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: I've forgotten what kind of car this is... but on my TR4 the new door seals made the door a bit hard to close at first. They eventually settled in to where it now closes with about as much effort as a refrigerator door. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at adelphia.net> > Thanks for all the feedback on the door adjustment... From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jul 26 14:39:33 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 13:39:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down In-Reply-To: <022401c7cfa0$4b952110$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: <46A855E2.20604@telus.net> <022401c7cfa0$4b952110$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: One other thought... I don't think you said where the previous gaskets blew. That might be a clue to the nature of the problem. My own experience was a failure between #2 & #3 which is probably the weak point on the gasket. Geo From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jul 26 15:42:04 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 17:42:04 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A oil cooler Message-ID: I am looking for some guidance on the location of an oil cooler on a TR3A. I have only seen race prepared and the cooler is mounted behind the valence with a cutout for air passage. I prefer not to do that for my car which is a street car. Is mounting it forward of the crank fixture behind the grill too much obstruction for the radiator? (My radiator no longer has a crank hole). This is a 13 row cooler and I am assuming the stainless hoses are long enough to go there. An electric pusher fan is being installed. TIA David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Jul 26 16:28:44 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 18:28:44 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A oil cooler Message-ID: In a message dated 7/26/2007 3:42:52 PM Mountain Daylight Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: An electric pusher fan is being installed. You may find the pusher fan is too much obstruction for the radiator. Mount it as a puller if you can. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From skip47 at powernet.net Thu Jul 26 17:00:45 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 16:00:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? References: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840C5@mail1.sr.local> Message-ID: <006801c7cfd8$cdfe0210$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Hasn't anybody been watching "Mythbusters" on the Discovery Channel? They picked up on a scientific article that said the Hindenburg burned because it was painted with thermite! (Well, half painted; the other half was a different compound.) They tested the hypothesis, and CONFIRMED that their experiment with a model burned at the same rate as the original, and noted that the flames seen in the film were not the same as hydrogen flames. They concluded that hydrogen had gotten somewhat of a bad rap. Let the flames begin.... Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A 70 TVR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paige, Dean" > If you have ever looked closely at the film of the Hindenburg disaster > you will note that the destruction of the air ship did not result from a > "blast" it was a relatively slow burn from one end of the gas bag to the > other. Would not actually be classified as an explosion such as a BLEVE. > Boiling Liquid Expanding Vapor Explosion. > > Deano > > jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > > >If you used hydrogen, you'd have to name the car "Hindenburg"!! > > I bet it would be a real blast to drive. From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Thu Jul 26 17:14:42 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 16:14:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? In-Reply-To: <006801c7cfd8$cdfe0210$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Message-ID: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840C6@mail1.sr.local> I missed that one. But I believe they are right. Have not yet seen an explanation of just what caused the burn to begin with. Or maybe I did and just forgot. I am older now and don't remember everything I've learned in the past. Had to make room for what I'm learning now. Deano -----Original Message----- From: Skip Gurnee [mailto:skip47 at powernet.net] Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 4:01 PM To: Paige, Dean; Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Hasn't anybody been watching "Mythbusters" on the Discovery Channel? They picked up on a scientific article that said the Hindenburg burned because it was painted with thermite! (Well, half painted; the other half was a different compound.) They tested the hypothesis, and CONFIRMED that their experiment with a model burned at the same rate as the original, and noted that the flames seen in the film were not the same as hydrogen flames. They concluded that hydrogen had gotten somewhat of a bad rap. Let the flames begin.... Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A 70 TVR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paige, Dean" > If you have ever looked closely at the film of the Hindenburg disaster > you will note that the destruction of the air ship did not result from > a "blast" it was a relatively slow burn from one end of the gas bag to > the other. Would not actually be classified as an explosion such as a BLEVE. > Boiling Liquid Expanding Vapor Explosion. > > Deano > > jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > > >If you used hydrogen, you'd have to name the car "Hindenburg"!! > > I bet it would be a real blast to drive. From jlynn604 at verizon.net Thu Jul 26 17:43:14 2007 From: jlynn604 at verizon.net (Joe Lynn) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 19:43:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2007 TSD results are now online Message-ID: <46A93192.8000009@verizon.net> The results of the VTR 2007 TSD Rallye are now available at http://www.vtr2007.com/tsdResults.jsp Results from other events will be posted as I get them. All the best, Joe Lynn 59 TR3A From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jul 26 17:48:07 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 23:48:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down Message-ID: <072620072348.28082.46A932B70009DBAF00006DB222165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Also, Allan, are you re-torquing the head when you're supposed to? I think it's at 2K miles, but forget exactly when and it's too hot and humid (read I am too lazy) to look it up. Terry -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > I would appreciate advice and lister's expertise ... but I > > don't want to > > count the "ups" and "downs" to determine the answer > > Personally, I don't believe it makes much difference. It would seem that > the gasket makers don't think so either, otherwise they wouldn't have > redesigned with the extra oil hole, allowing it to be fitted either way. > > Most likely, IMO, you have something else wrong, besides which way the > gasket is fitted. > > I fought head gasket problems on my TR3 engine for many years, until I > finally happened to check liner protrusion on both sides. Turns out they > were low only on one side (!) apparently due to a manufacturing defect in > the original 1956 cylinder block. The moral is to check every liner on both > sides, every time. > > Some other tips picked up along the way : > > Take a new hardware store nut and spin it down the studs. Should turn > easily all the way to the bottom of the threads. If it binds about 2/3 > down, the stud is distorted and should be replaced. > > Use a straightedge and feeler gauge to check that the head surface is flat, > checking in several different places and directions. I've found that my > ordinary carpenter's square is straight enough. You can double-check your > straightedge if you find a low spot, by moving the straightedge and seeing > if the low spot moves with it. > > The flat washers under the head nuts are special items and are important; > hardware store washers are too soft and the wrong size. If yours are > missing or wrong, replace them. I believe they are now available from TRF > et al. Same goes for the nuts. I wound up with a set of 'tall' nuts from > BFE, but the original spec nuts are fine, IMO. Just don't use hardware > store nuts (even grade 8). > > Get an accurate torque wrench, and follow the sequence given in the owner's > manual. I like to go in 3 steps, first all to 40 ftlb, then all 80, then > all 105. > > BTW, the owner's manual specifies that the head gasket should be installed > smooth side down. > > Randall > (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) From areich at telus.net Thu Jul 26 17:52:38 2007 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 16:52:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down In-Reply-To: References: <46A855E2.20604@telus.net> <022401c7cfa0$4b952110$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <46A933C6.2070008@telus.net> Geo The first failure was #4 between #3 and #4, and the second was both #3 and #4 .. between #3 and #4. I forgot to mention that because of my overheating, I did fabricate a "Geo Hahn Air Dam" out of aluminum. It didn't help much, so I think my problems are deeper than a little air. I am going to take off the nose-piece and remove the rad and get it taken apart and cleaned (or rebuilt). Allan Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > One other thought... I don't think you said where the previous gaskets > blew. That might be a clue to the nature of the problem. My own > experience was a failure between #2 & #3 which is probably the weak > point on the gasket. > > Geo From areich at telus.net Thu Jul 26 18:09:46 2007 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 17:09:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down Message-ID: <46A937CA.50809@telus.net> Terry: I torqued the head to 105 lbs in steps of 10 from 55. I then ran it 15 minutes to get it warm, let it cool a bit, then re-torqued to 105. The car only had about 800 miles on the new gasket when it went. I was planning to re-check at 1000 miles Allan | Terry said: | Also, Allan, are you re-torquing the head when you're supposed to? I think it's at 2K miles, but forget exactly | when and it's too hot and humid (read I am too lazy) to look it up. | | Terry From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 26 18:18:09 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 17:18:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down In-Reply-To: <46A933C6.2070008@telus.net> References: <46A855E2.20604@telus.net><022401c7cfa0$4b952110$6a5636cc@navcom.com> <46A933C6.2070008@telus.net> Message-ID: <002201c7cfe3$9c873160$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I forgot to mention that because of my overheating, I did fabricate a > "Geo Hahn Air Dam" out of aluminum. It didn't help much, so > I think my > problems are deeper than a little air. I was never quite sure of the explanation, but when I was driving with a leaking head gasket, the temp gauge would do all sorts of odd things. One of them was to climb way past center when I first hit the freeway in the morning, then suddenly drop back well below center. Sometimes this cycle would repeat, but usually it only happened once while the engine was warming up. Best I could tell, the leaking combustion gases would prevent water circulation with the thermostat closed, maybe by air-locking the pump or something. Then the water would boil in the head, and the expanding steam would somehow start the circulation process. Once the thermostat opened, it would even out, and be fine for the rest of my commute. Also FWIW, I've overheated other TR3A engines and never lost a head gasket that way. Even drove home once with no fan belt, by stopping occasionally to add more water. So IMO while a leaking head gasket may well lead to overheating; overheating shouldn't lead to a leaking headgasket unless you actually manage to crack the head. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From areich at telus.net Thu Jul 26 19:41:05 2007 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 18:41:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down Message-ID: <46A94D31.1020703@telus.net> Randall: Thanks for the great advice .. I will try to follow it .. not sure how accurately I can check the measurements. -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > > > The flat washers under the head nuts are special items and are important; > > hardware store washers are too soft and the wrong size. If yours are > > missing or wrong, replace them. I believe they are now available from TRF > > et al. Same goes for the nuts. I wound up with a set of 'tall' nuts from > > BFE, but the original spec nuts are fine, IMO. Just don't use hardware > > store nuts (even grade 8). > > > I don't have flat washers .. I only have lock washers. Do you think the "Moss" hardware is better than going to a fastener outfit .. what grade would I specify? > > BTW, the owner's manual specifies that the head gasket should be installed > > smooth side down. > I found reference to "smooth face downwards" under heading 17 re the "Low compression kit" ..page 27 of "Service Instruction Manual" but couldn't find it elsewhere in that book. So i went out and found Kenneth Ball's "Triumph TR2, TR3, and TR3A 1952-62" Workshop manual and it also said on Page 13 "a new gasket smooth side down". Based on simple principles, there are different surfaces on the block side (4 sleeves, block) and only the head up top, so without knowing anything else, I would conclude that smooth side to many surfaces and non-smooth to the single surface .... ie Smooth Side down. But that may be too simple. Allan From McGaheyRx at aol.com Thu Jul 26 20:03:02 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 22:03:02 EDT Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: In a message dated 7/26/2007 2:58:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us writes: If you have ever looked closely at the film of the Hindenburg disaster you will note that the destruction of the air ship did not result from a "blast" it was a relatively slow burn from one end of the gas bag to the other. it wasn't one bag - was 16 separate cells, one igniting after the other Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jul 26 20:09:47 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 19:09:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil cooler In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <80EF7429E602404BAB5BF0ACE662AE41@GeoPC> I recall Bob Schaller installed his behind the grille. Crossing Texas in June he made some roadside 'adjustment' to the grille to combat overheating: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bobs.JPG Yes, that dark patch is the hole he cut on the grille in front of the oil cooler. OTOH, he was pulling a trailer in 100+ degree heat. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 2:42 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A oil cooler >I am looking for some guidance on the location of an oil cooler on a TR3A. From mrkirbyv at yahoo.com Thu Jul 26 20:25:19 2007 From: mrkirbyv at yahoo.com (Kirby Vaughan) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 22:25:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Shop-talk] How to tighten a swaged pin In-Reply-To: <0JLR003RWDXH7XW0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <000d01c7cff5$61073d30$4002a8c0@fatboy> Steve, I have run into similar problems in the past. Try a socket about the same diameter as the outside diameter of the swaged side and squeeze it in the vise. Its hard to mash the center of the rivet but you should be able turn in the edges of the swage if it doesn't need to go too far. I have also resorted to drilling a little way into the rivet on the swaged side and then using a large punch to flare it out then mash it with a vise. I think they used a hydraulic press to do these originally and a vise won't generate enough pressure to mash the shaft of the rivet. Good luck, Kirby Vaughan -----Original Message----- From: shop-talk-bounces+mrkirbyv=yahoo.com at autox.team.net [mailto:shop-talk-bounces+mrkirbyv=yahoo.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Trovato Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 7:43 PM To: Jack Brooks; 'Shop Talk' Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to tighten a swaged pin Jack, Well, this is a pretty stout pin. A vise didn't do it. A C-clamp wouldn't stand a chance. I'm going to try a press. Yes, the Magnette is a lot of fun. I will assume for the moment that your spelling of it wasn't some sort of insect analogy. :-) TR-3's and TR-8's are pretty cool too. I remember taking a new TR-8 for a test drive that caused the salesman considerable stress. I was never one of those "I'd rather push my ___ than drive a ____" kind of guys. They're all pretty nice. -Steve From AMfoto1 at aol.com Thu Jul 26 19:47:12 2007 From: AMfoto1 at aol.com (AMfoto1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 21:47:12 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 55 Message-ID: Hi David, I'd suggest not putting the oil cooler that far out in front of the radiator. It will mess with the air flow to the radiator too much. I agree, too, with Robert B., you'd be much better off configuring the elec. fan as a puller, behind the radiator. (When rigged as a pusher, it actually blocks quite a bit of airflow.) By rigging it instead as a puller, you will find you have another alternative location for the oil cooler, that makes for relatively pretty easy installation. The best solution for a street car - given that you don't want to cut an intake - would be to put the oil cooler smack up against the front of the radiator. It's helpful that standard 10, 13 and 16 row oil coolers are usually the same width as the tall TR3/4 radiator (at least all the ones I've seen). Putting it against the front of the rad will not disturb air flow much and the slightly pre-warmed air really shouldn't reduce the radiator's effectiveness significantly (and will be more than offset by the additional cooling provided by lower oil temps). This suggestion is actually taken from Mocal's website a few years ago. In a nutshell, they stated that if the cooler and the radiator must share the same air flow, the cooler should be as close as possible just in front of the rad. Use a few rubber spacers to help keep them from vibrating against each other, I'd suggest. In fact, depending upon how it's positioned, an elec. puller fan can then serve both the rad and the oil cooler. You'll need to remove the mechanical fan from the front of the engine to configure the elec. fan as a puller. Leave the fan hub extension in place, it also serves as a sort of primitive harmonic balancer (there are true harmonic balancers available from _www.britishframeandengine.com_ (http://www.britishframeandengine.com) , and others, if you'd prefer to remove the hub ext. entirely). Be sure to use a thermostat in the oil coolers lines, to keep from overcooling the oil. That would be almost as bad as overheated oil. Mocal now offers a neat oil cooler take-off combined with a 185 degree thermostat. It's just a sandwich plate that works well in combination with a spin-on filter and spin-on filter converter on a TR. Photos of this installation on my TR4 can be seen at the "Triumph Owners" link below. Cheers! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. _amfoto1 at aol.com_ (mailto:amfoto1 at aol.com) '62 TR4 CT176092L _http://www.triumphowners.com/640_ (http://www.triumphowners.com/640) (http://www.triumphowners.com/640) **************************************************** I am looking for some guidance on the location of an oil cooler on a TR3A. I have only seen race prepared and the cooler is mounted behind the valence with a cutout for air passage. I prefer not to do that for my car which is a street car. Is mounting it forward of the crank fixture behind the grill too much obstruction for the radiator? (My radiator no longer has a crank hole). This is a 13 row cooler and I am assuming the stainless hoses are long enough to go there. An electric pusher fan is being installed. TIA David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO (http://www.triumphowners.com/640) ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Jul 26 21:32:28 2007 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 20:32:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] upholstery tools Message-ID: I bought a set of seat covers for my TR3A. I was going to wait till the fall to do the work, but then I thought I might as well do it now (when it is way too hot to be outside with the top down or up)!!! Anyway what I am looking for is advice on where to get the little C rings that are used to hold the upholstery in place, and where one can find the tool that is used to clamp them. I would be happy to buy leftovers from anyone's project John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jul 26 22:46:28 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 22:46:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] upholstery tools In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070727044630.018F01879FC@autox.team.net> The are called 'nog-nose rings' and hog-nose ring pliers'. You can get them at your local farm & ranch, some FLAPS or upholstery supply store. It is a fairly easy task, just keep everything snug and straight as you go. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L(O) (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 60TR3A Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 9:32 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] upholstery tools I bought a set of seat covers for my TR3A. I was going to wait till the fall to do the work, but then I thought I might as well do it now (when it is way too hot to be outside with the top down or up)!!! Anyway what I am looking for is advice on where to get the little C rings that are used to hold the upholstery in place, and where one can find the tool that is used to clamp them. I would be happy to buy leftovers from anyone's project John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.20/919 - Release Date: 7/26/2007 9:56 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.20/919 - Release Date: 7/26/2007 9:56 AM From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Jul 26 22:48:57 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 00:48:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Taps & Dies Message-ID: <8C99E2093A8E8D2-AC8-4032@webmail-dd05.sysops.aol.com> Hi Everyone, A local hardware store is going out of business and they have a bunch of taps and dies that are 75% off.? I thought it might be wise to pick up some of the more common taps and dies that are typically used during an extensive restoration.? Can anyone recommend some sizes? Thanks in advance for your help and expertise. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jul 27 06:21:40 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 08:21:40 EDT Subject: [TR] Taps & Dies Message-ID: In a message dated 7/26/2007 11:51:40 PM Central Daylight Time, acekraut11 at aol.com writes: > Hi Everyone, > > A local hardware store is going out of business and they have a bunch of > taps and dies that are 75% off.? I thought it might be wise to pick up some of > the more common taps and dies that are typically used during an extensive > restoration.? Can anyone recommend some sizes? > > Thanks in advance for your help and expertise. > > Aaron > If it were me I would buy taps in the following sequence: 5/16-24 3/8-24 1/4-28 3/8-18 5/16-18 1/4-20 10-32 8-32 I don't know how many you plan to buy but start at the top of the list and work down. If you are feeling rich you may want to buy one of everything they have. The list is based on my perception of the frequency that you will find these sizes but there are a couple of threaded fasteners that are 7/16 UNF and there may be an electrical connection or two using a 6-32 screws. And get some tapping oil. Dave From peb3 at cornell.edu Fri Jul 27 06:39:18 2007 From: peb3 at cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 08:39:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] new parts supplier Message-ID: Just discovered this supplier of hard to find parts: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index -- Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) Middlebury Center, PA (visit our new location!) '71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jul 27 06:43:33 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 08:43:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] new parts supplier In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46A9B035.15533.4702E2E@localhost> On 27 Jul 2007 at 8:39, Philip E. Barnes wrote: > Just discovered this supplier of hard to find parts: > http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index Muffler bearings and t-shirts? Oh yeah, they are in So Cal, aren't they? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.22/922 - Release Date: 7/27/2007 6:08 AM From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Fri Jul 27 06:56:52 2007 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 08:56:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] new parts supplier In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000601c7d04d$9aff99d0$0301a8c0@chuck> I especially liked the availability of Elbow Grease, Seasonal Tire Air, Brass Balls, and the Sky Hook Set. Chuck Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Philip E. Barnes Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 8:39 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] new parts supplier Just discovered this supplier of hard to find parts: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index -- Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) Middlebury Center, PA (visit our new location!) '71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) From bdischer at blakedischer.com Fri Jul 27 07:21:05 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 09:21:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR TSD, AutoX and website awards Message-ID: <00f601c7d050$fde01270$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> I've added the TSD, Autocross, and website awards to the VTR site: http://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/conventions/2007/ Cheers, Blake From RichHalpern at verizon.net Fri Jul 27 07:54:59 2007 From: RichHalpern at verizon.net (Rich Halpern) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 09:54:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] upholstery tools In-Reply-To: Message-ID: John, I bought my hog ring pliers and rings on ebay. Regards, Rich 61TR4 Lansdale PA > I bought a set of seat covers for my TR3A. I was going to wait till > the fall to do the work, but then I thought I might as well do it now > (when it is way too hot to be outside with the top down or up)!!! > > Anyway what I am looking for is advice on where to get the little C > rings that are used to hold the upholstery in place, and where one > can find the tool that is used to clamp them. I would be happy to > buy leftovers from anyone's project > > John > > John A. Wise > Glendale, AZ > > 1960 Triumph TR3A > Commission No: TS80422L > http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ > > 1977 Porsche 911S > http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ > _______________________________________________ > richhalpern at verizon.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From twakeman at razzolink.com Fri Jul 27 08:42:37 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 07:42:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] upholstery tools In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46AA045D.4010007@razzolink.com> > I bought my hog ring pliers and rings on ebay. I bought mine at the local hardware store. TeriAnn From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Fri Jul 27 08:56:02 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 07:56:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] new parts supplier In-Reply-To: <46A9B035.15533.4702E2E@localhost> Message-ID: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840C7@mail1.sr.local> The tire beads look suspiciously like ben wa balls. Dual purpose? Deano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 5:44 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] new parts supplier On 27 Jul 2007 at 8:39, Philip E. Barnes wrote: > Just discovered this supplier of hard to find parts: > http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index Muffler bearings and t-shirts? Oh yeah, they are in So Cal, aren't they? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.22/922 - Release Date: 7/27/2007 6:08 AM _______________________________________________ dpaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 27 10:42:14 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 09:42:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] upholstery tools In-Reply-To: <46AA045D.4010007@razzolink.com> References: <46AA045D.4010007@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <00b501c7d06d$15f2b9f0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > > I bought my hog ring pliers and rings on ebay. > > I bought mine at the local hardware store. Having moved from a relatively rural setting to a big city; it's amazing how much easier some things are to find, and how much harder others are. My local hardware store likely doesn't even know what "hog rings" are, let alone baling wire. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jul 27 10:44:20 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:44:20 EDT Subject: [TR] new parts supplier Message-ID: In a message dated 7/27/2007 7:39:42 AM Central Daylight Time, peb3 at cornell.edu writes: > Just discovered this supplier of hard to find parts: > http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index > I noticed that they go one better than nitrogen for the tires. Dave From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jul 27 11:32:01 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 17:32:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? Message-ID: <072720071732.14364.46AA2C11000A43A60000381C22070216339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Skip Gurnee" > Hasn't anybody been watching "Mythbusters" on the Discovery Channel? Didn't have to. The PBS show NOVA did this years ago. Yes, it was the dope on the fabric. The disaster would have occurred if the airship was full of helium. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 27 11:37:57 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 10:37:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] upholstery tools In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00bc01c7d074$ded42fa0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Anyway what I am looking for is advice on where to get the little C > rings that are used to hold the upholstery in place, and where one > can find the tool that is used to clamp them. http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3258 Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Jul 27 11:37:55 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 11:37:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR TSD, AutoX and website awards In-Reply-To: <00f601c7d050$fde01270$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> References: <00f601c7d050$fde01270$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> Message-ID: <46AA2D73.1080005@tscusa.org> Blake J. Discher wrote: > I've added the TSD, Autocross, and website awards to the VTR site: > http://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/conventions/2007/ > > Cheers, > Blake Look at that Dave, knocking down the cones cuts the run time by at least 6 seconds !! :-P -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From britishtr6 at gmail.com Fri Jul 27 12:42:47 2007 From: britishtr6 at gmail.com (Jon & Susan) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 11:42:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] OT: does anyone have Sirius Satellite Radio Message-ID: <001a01c7d07d$ef3c8a00$8802a8c0@Compaq> Hi, Sorry to bomb the list with this request, but does anyone have Sirius Satellite Radio and be willing to record a program for me? If you are interested in helping out. Email me privately and I will give you the details of the time and date of the performance. Thanks in advance! Cheers, Jon From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jul 27 12:50:46 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 18:50:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] Taps & Dies Message-ID: <072720071850.20269.46AA3E8600064A1A00004F2D22070216339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > acekraut11 at aol.com writes: > > A local hardware store is going out of business and they have a bunch of > > taps and dies that are 75% off.? I thought it might be wise to pick up some of > > the more common taps and dies I wouldn't bother buying them unless they were High Speed Steel. I have used a lot of hardware-store taps over the years and most of them are rubbish sutible only for cleaning up existing threads in soft metal. I also am a fan of "gun" taps, which are cut at a negative angle on the point and push the waste ahead of the tap, preventing the jamming and breakage for which taps are known. If you are tapping a blind hole, I suggest you start it wth a gun tap and finish it off with a bottoming tap. From: Dave1massey at cs.com > And get some tapping oil. Just don't use it in cast iron. :-) -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From 308gtsi at adelphia.net Fri Jul 27 13:00:22 2007 From: 308gtsi at adelphia.net (Brian Induni) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:00:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Taps & Dies In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <002e01c7d080$630a7710$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Seems like everything on my TR4a is fine thread pitch, so I'd buy everything from #6 up to 3/4 in fine pitch! Brian 1967 TR4a From spitlist at cox.net Fri Jul 27 13:22:40 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:22:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest in TVT Message-ID: <005001c7d083$80381240$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I just got my June TVT today and see a writeup on Triumphest. I made the photo page with my 2-Spit Display!!! I'm Famous! :) Joe C. From McGaheyRx at aol.com Fri Jul 27 13:24:40 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:24:40 EDT Subject: [TR] new parts supplier Message-ID: In a message dated 7/27/2007 7:39:43 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, peb3 at cornell.edu writes: Just discovered this supplier of hard to find parts: _http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index_ (http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index) I think I'll order some of their Round Tuits - been lookin for those a long time but I think their flux capacitor is overpriced Cheers Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Jul 27 14:40:08 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 14:40:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] Taps & Dies In-Reply-To: <8C99E2093A8E8D2-AC8-4032@webmail-dd05.sysops.aol.com> References: <8C99E2093A8E8D2-AC8-4032@webmail-dd05.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <46AA5828.70604@tscusa.org> acekraut11 at aol.com wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > A local hardware store is going out of business and they have a bunch of taps and dies that are 75% off.? I thought it might be wise to pick up some of the more common taps and dies that are typically used during an extensive restoration.? Can anyone recommend some sizes? > > Thanks in advance for your help and expertise. > > Aaron > Don't forget there are different taps for the same size and thread pitch- starter, running , bottoming. So you want the set to do it correctly. Also, get some ratcheting handles, and don't forget the dies too!! Small diameters tend to break easily, so those should be purchased in a higher quantity than just one. Also as had been said, look for quality - don't buy any garbage from the pacific rim. Also look for those technology improvements. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 27 14:49:18 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 13:49:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Taps & Dies In-Reply-To: <072720071850.20269.46AA3E8600064A1A00004F2D22070216339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <072720071850.20269.46AA3E8600064A1A00004F2D22070216339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <010b01c7d08f$99fffe20$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I have used a lot of hardware-store taps over the > years and most of them are rubbish sutible only for cleaning > up existing threads in soft metal. Which presumably is exactly what we're talking about here. The very few hardened fasteners on a TR should be replaced if the threads are damaged, IMO. And while the need to fabricate parts during a TR6 restoration does sometimes arise, hopefully it's not often (since the hand-fabricated part will not be a match for the "correct" part). As I understand it, high speed steel is appropriate for situations where the cutting edge potentially gets hot enough to soften carbon steel; which generally means a power tool is involved. Otherwise, ordinary carbon steel actually holds an edge better. Hand-tapping would seem to usually fall in the second category ... although I must admit, I finally wore out a 30 year old carbon steel die a few days ago, cutting threads on drill rod with it. But if it didn't have a couple of broken teeth, I'd sharpen it and go on. > Just don't use it in cast iron. :-) I'll bite, what's wrong with using cutting oil in cast iron ? I very rarely cut new threads in cast iron anyway; and generally don't bother with it when I'm just chasing old threads; but the few times I've cut new threads in cast iron, the cutting oil seemed to help. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 27 17:24:04 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 16:24:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down In-Reply-To: <46A94D31.1020703@telus.net> References: <46A94D31.1020703@telus.net> Message-ID: <013d01c7d0a5$3978ae60$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Thanks for the great advice .. I will try to follow it .. not > sure how accurately I can check the measurements. A set of feeler gauges is a very basic tool, required for TR ownership, IMO. As long as there aren't any sudden dips, .001" or .002" curvature in the head probably won't hurt anything, IMO. The head gasket should crush enough to make it up. > I don't have flat washers .. I only have lock washers. Augh ! Should be no lockwashers there ! Lockwashers are useful only in relatively low compression joints; they are never used for head nuts. The torque on the nut will keep them from turning ... retorquing is required because the head gasket continues to crush, not because the nuts back off. > Do you think the "Moss" hardware is better than going to a fastener outfit .. > what grade would I specify? Yes, I do think you should buy the hardware from a LBC vendor. The washers are a non-standard size; and I've been told that the proper nuts are a special class of thread. The originals would not have been graded by the US system; so even Grade 8 is just a guess. > I found reference to "smooth face downwards" under heading 17 re the > "Low compression kit" ..page 27 of "Service Instruction Manual" I was referring to P/N 510528, which is variously titled "Instruction Book" or "Practical Hints for the Maintenance of the TR3", depending on edition. It's the TR2-3 equivalent of an owner's manual, delivered with every new car. The one I have handy is the 2nd edition, and the comment about the head gasket is on page 26, step 4 of "Decarbonizing and Valve Grinding". It says : A new gasket must be fitted each time the cylinder head is removed. The plain side of the gasket must be downwards against the cylinder block and should be coated on both sides with " WELLSEAL" or similar non-setting sealing compound. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr6parts at earthlink.net Fri Jul 27 18:16:04 2007 From: tr6parts at earthlink.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 20:16:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr6 frame repair Message-ID: <002d01c7d0ac$81ecf190$13ff9804@alan> I am looking for a left front rail and shock tower off a donor TR6 . Also need left front inner fenders. hood, front crossmember 72-74, rack& pinion, accelerator pedal & shaft, headlamp bucket, left front signal lamp 74 or earlier, lower steering column shaft. If anyone has such parts near the carolinas , please email me with a price. Thanks Al Salvatore From robertrudolphi at netscape.net Fri Jul 27 19:29:32 2007 From: robertrudolphi at netscape.net (robertrudolphi at netscape.net) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 21:29:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] RHD FI TR6 in Rehoboth Beach DE Message-ID: <8C99ECDE217E0D1-96C-758B@WEBMAIL-DC12.sysops.aol.com> I was out for a jog tonight and noticed a TR6 back behind some buildings. When I went over to check it out it was a?fuel injected RHD model with OD. It is BRG with a tan interior and looked like it was being worked on as the injection system was all apart. You don't see may FI here in the states. Does this belong to anyone on the list? Robert Rudolphi 74 TR6 ________________________________________________________________________ Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- Unlimited storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jul 27 19:36:08 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 01:36:08 +0000 Subject: [TR] upholstery tools In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Should be found at the hardware store. They are called hog nails. There is a special pair of pliers for installing them you may find useful too. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507 From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Sat Jul 28 04:46:37 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 11:46:37 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A In-Reply-To: <46A3B184.6040609@zianet.com> Message-ID: <670233.55013.qm@web27401.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hi Listers, I have now changed the sooty plug and going for a test drive tomorrow. It was definitely sooty rather than oily. Regarding the PCV valve, I have installed a rocker feed kit as sold by Moss and was wondering if that could be the cause of a lot of oil being pushed through the valve and being dumped into cylinder no 3 causing it to make the plug sooty. all advice greatly appreciated, Thanks, Chris > When I got home I removed HT leads in turn and found that removing the lead from number 3 cylinder made the least difference to the idle. > I then checked all plugs and found No 3 to be 'sooty' while all the others were clean burnt light grey colour. . I would also check the soot on the plug--does it feel dry and fluffy, or oily? If the latter, it's time to do a compression check. If the former, the plug could be firing intermittently, or, there might be a slight vacuum leak at the manifold at that cylinder. --------------------------------- Yahoo! Mail is the world's favourite email. Don't settle for less, sign up for your freeaccount today. From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 28 08:00:43 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:00:43 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR TSD, AutoX and website awards Message-ID: In a message dated 7/27/2007 12:40:39 PM Central Daylight Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > Look at that Dave, knocking down the cones cuts the run time by at least > 6 seconds !! :-P > But not nearly as much as skipping part of the course. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 28 08:06:21 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:06:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Taps & Dies Message-ID: In a message dated 7/27/2007 1:51:12 PM Central Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > I wouldn't bother buying them unless they were High Speed Steel. I have > used a lot of hardware-store taps over the years and most of them are rubbish > sutible only for cleaning up existing threads in soft metal. > Which is the main purpose for us restorers. The main use for those of us not fabricating parts from scratch is to clean the rust and paint out of the factory tapped holes. I chuck one up in my battery drill, set the torque limiter to an appropriate level and zip, I've got clean threads. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 28 08:07:45 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:07:45 EDT Subject: [TR] Taps & Dies Message-ID: In a message dated 7/27/2007 2:01:09 PM Central Daylight Time, 308gtsi at adelphia.net writes: > Seems like everything on my TR4a is fine thread pitch, so I'd buy > everything > from #6 up to 3/4 in fine pitch! > That's what I thought until I ran into coarse threads on my exhaust manifold. 3/8-18 Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 28 08:10:57 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:10:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphest in TVT Message-ID: In a message dated 7/27/2007 2:15:27 PM Central Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > I just got my June TVT today and see a writeup on Triumphest. I made the > photo page with my 2-Spit Display!!! > > I'm Famous! :) > Joe, you've been famous for a long time. or is that infamous? Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 28 08:11:58 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:11:58 EDT Subject: [TR] new parts supplier Message-ID: In a message dated 7/27/2007 2:25:35 PM Central Daylight Time, McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: > but I think their flux capacitor is overpriced > I dunno, I tried to build my own but it didn't work worth a crap. When I think of the money I spent on it... Dave From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Jul 28 08:16:13 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:16:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphest in TVT In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46AB176D.27863.528FE14@localhost> On 28 Jul 2007 at 10:10, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > I just got my June TVT today and see a writeup on Triumphest. I made the > > photo page with my 2-Spit Display!!! > > > > I'm Famous! :) > > > Joe, you've been famous for a long time. Enjoy it now, for fame is a fluif that easily slips away. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.22/923 - Release Date: 7/27/2007 6:01 PM From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Jul 28 08:20:18 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:20:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Taps & Dies References: Message-ID: <001101c7d122$6d3aece0$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> My theory is I'm not sure which taps,dies, or even drill bits I'll use the most on any given project. So I just buy the inexpensive set and use them. When one breaks I replace it with a high quality one since it seems to have been one I would use more. I also have the sizes used less frequently that the cheaper ones serve the purpose. Dave, great meeting you and welcoming you to the Single Malt Society. Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag Subject: Re: [TR] Taps & Dies > In a message dated 7/27/2007 1:51:12 PM Central Daylight Time, > pethier at comcast.net writes: >> I wouldn't bother buying them unless they were High Speed Steel. I have >> used a lot of hardware-store taps over the years and most of them are >> rubbish >> sutible only for cleaning up existing threads in soft metal. >> > Which is the main purpose for us restorers. The main use for those of us > not > fabricating parts from scratch is to clean the rust and paint out of the > factory tapped holes. I chuck one up in my battery drill, set the torque > limiter > to an appropriate level and zip, I've got clean threads. > > Dave > _______________________________________________ From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 28 08:35:27 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:35:27 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphest in TVT Message-ID: In a message dated 7/28/2007 9:16:31 AM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > Enjoy it now, for fame is a fluif that easily slips away. > The proverbial 15 minuifs of fame, eh? Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 28 08:38:58 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:38:58 EDT Subject: [TR] Taps & Dies Message-ID: In a message dated 7/28/2007 9:21:46 AM Central Daylight Time, tfansher at comcast.net writes: > My theory is I'm not sure which taps,dies, or even drill bits I'll use the > most on any given project. > So I just buy the inexpensive set and use them. When one breaks I replace it > > with a high quality one since it seems to have been one I would use more. I > also have the sizes used less frequently that the cheaper ones serve the > purpose. > Dave, great meeting you and welcoming you to the Single Malt Society. > Tom > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 73 Stag > I want to thank you for initiating me into the SMS. I guess being the initiate I am obligated to bring the bottle next year. Maybe I should adopt your philosophy and buy a cheap set and if we break one I'll replace it with a quality version. ;-) Dave PS: I want to thank you for not hitting the very tempting target I provided on show day. I know there are many on the list that would have availed themselves of the opportunity. From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Jul 28 08:45:12 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:45:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] relays in TR3's and VTR rambling Message-ID: <002301c7d125$e7bfcb90$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> I had a wonderful time in Valley Forge. My hats off the Delaware club for the fine job they did with the week. I had 150 miles on the TR3A when it came time to leave so towed it up. Tuesday afternoon Jim Henningson and I ran the Funkhana and did well on the first run, but I locked up in reverse on the second run... With an hour or so of working with the linkage and removing the antivibration button and spring I was back on the road. Wednesday it rained in the afternoon and I got ready to go to the go cart races -- which were really fun. I'd never been to an inside track with electric carts... It rained on the way I noticed water leaking in on my legs, but wasn't too surprised. It is after all a Triumph. What I didn't think about at the time was that the relays for the electric fuel pump, fog lamp, driving light, and headlights were mounted above the heater/dash support on the driver's side, AND they were mounted such that water could collect in the relays... had fun go-carting and went out to the car and found the fuel pump running with the key off... turned the key on and the fuel pump went off, headlights were on and off and flickering but the fog and driving lights were ok. I made it almost out of the parking lot when I "ran out of gas". Jere Dotten stopped and a fellow from the host club. We hot wired the fuel pump from the o/d relay and instead of ice cream, I limped back to the motel and ate potato chips in the room - bourbon seemed to help the pain. I assumed that the ghost of Mr. Lucas had poured water into the relays just to show me who was boss with the electrics in a TR3. Thursday morning was really pretty, I helped Ronnie Babbitt install his new windshield and then we went to Home Depot for more wire and a toggle switch to better hot wire the fuel pump. The car ran great that day and Friday at the panoramic shoot and the two trips I made to the show the car ran really great. I working today at replacing the 3 bad relays and mounting them rightside up or upside down so rain can't collect in them. I was interesting because there would have only been a problem when driving in the driving rain and I never do that at home, so it would have happened at some show sometime -- better now than latter I suppose. Anyway, it was good to see some old friends and make some new ones, and work the inevitable bugs out of the rebuild and modifications. Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 28 08:54:10 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:54:10 EDT Subject: [TR] relays in TR3's and VTR rambling Message-ID: In a message dated 7/28/2007 9:47:09 AM Central Daylight Time, tfansher at comcast.net writes: > Anyway, it was good to see some old friends and make some new ones, and > work > the inevitable bugs out of the rebuild and modifications. > I've been to every VTR since 1998 and I couldn't agree more. It is the socail aspect that appeals to me more so than the cars (although I would probably still own one regardless). My original plan was to have my 57 TR3 finished for this show but my body guy had other ideas. (actually, I blame it on the extensive nature of the rus repair) Nonetheless, I plan on bringing it to VTR 2008 and park it next to yours. ;-) Dave From jimbpps at cox.net Sat Jul 28 10:51:58 2007 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 09:51:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest in TVT In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Or is that 'infamous'!! Just kidding, Joe! Jim Jim Bauder '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 7:11 AM To: spitlist at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest in TVT In a message dated 7/27/2007 2:15:27 PM Central Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > I just got my June TVT today and see a writeup on Triumphest. I made the > photo page with my 2-Spit Display!!! > > I'm Famous! :) > Joe, you've been famous for a long time. or is that infamous? Dave _______________________________________________ jimbpps at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Jul 28 11:49:29 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 11:49:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] relays in TR3's and VTR rambling In-Reply-To: <002301c7d125$e7bfcb90$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> References: <002301c7d125$e7bfcb90$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <46AB81A9.20205@tscusa.org> THOMAS FANSHER wrote: > I had 150 miles on the TR3A when it came time to leave so towed it up. > Tuesday afternoon Jim Henningson and I ran the Funkhana and did well on the > first run, but I locked up in reverse on the second run... > ... > It rained on the way I noticed water leaking in on my legs, > but wasn't too surprised. It is after all a Triumph... > What I didn't think about at the time was that the relays for the electric > fuel pump, fog lamp, driving light, and headlights were mounted above the > heater/dash support on the driver's side, AND they were mounted such that > water could collect in the relays... and went out to the > car and found the fuel pump running with the key off... turned the key on and > the fuel pump went off, headlights were on and off and flickering but the fog > and driving lights were ok. I made it almost out of the parking lot when I > "ran out of gas". Jere Dotten stopped and a fellow from the host club. We hot > wired the fuel pump from the o/d relay and instead of ice cream, I limped back > to the motel and ate potato chips in the room - bourbon seemed to help the > pain. I assumed that the ghost of Mr. Lucas had poured water into the relays > just to show me who was boss with the electrics in a TR3. > Thursday morning was really pretty, I helped Ronnie Babbitt install his new > windshield and then we went to Home Depot for more wire and a toggle switch to > better hot wire the fuel pump. The car ran great that day and Friday at the > panoramic shoot and the two trips I made to the show the car ran really > great. > I working today at replacing the 3 bad relays and mounting them rightside up > or upside down so rain can't collect in them. > I was interesting because there would have only been a problem when driving in > the driving rain and I never do that at home, so it would have happened at > some show sometime -- better now than latter I suppose. > Tom > Tom, I told you you should have driven the Stag!! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Jul 28 12:47:56 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 14:47:56 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphest in TVT Message-ID: In a message dated 7/27/2007 3:16:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: I'm Famous! :) Joe C. _______________________________________________ Hey Joe, LOOKING GOOD there. May I suggest that next time you place a few CONES around your 2-Spit Display!!! After all that is what you are really FAMOUS for. Cheers, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From triumph66 at gmail.com Sat Jul 28 21:00:59 2007 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 23:00:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A to TR6 Seat Belt Anchor hook structural integrity for lap belts?? Message-ID: Speaking of TR3 seat belt anchors, are the seat bolt hooks that were installed at the factory for TR4A to TR6 considered structurally sound to take the g-forces of a good lap belt installation???? Ted On 7/28/07, wbeech wrote: > > Steve, > > Nice site, I wish I had seen this before I ordered, and installed last > night, the ones from Moss as I really wanted red webbing on the simpler > style of belt. Will surely save this site for the future. > > Thanks, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: british-cars-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:british-cars-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Steven Trovato > Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 2:25 AM > To: bill beecher; british-cars at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [British-cars] TR3 Seat Belt Anchor Positions > > Bill, > > Check out the Wesco site. In addition to selling belts and installation > hardware, they have excellent retrofitting instructions: > > http://www.wescoperformance.com/lap-belts-install.html > > There are pages for two and three point belts, and they cover a number of > different situations. Very useful. > > -Steve > > At 06:37 PM 7/15/2007, bill beecher wrote: > >I am considering adding seat belts to my TR3 and wondering where the > >best and strongest anchor points are. Is the floor or side of the tunnel > better? > >Do I need to weld something off the frame member? Not belts for > >competition but simply for use as a daily driver. > _______________________________________________ > wbeech at flash.net > British-cars mailing list > British-cars at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/british-cars > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.22/923 - Release Date: 7/27/2007 > 6:01 PM > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.22/923 - Release Date: 7/27/2007 > 6:01 PM > > _______________________________________________ > triumph66 at gmail.com > British-cars mailing list > British-cars at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/british-cars > > -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Sat Jul 28 21:10:12 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 20:10:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] The aftermarket Rocker Arm Spacer kit Message-ID: <000401c7d18d$fab52d40$c52a144c@computer> Has anyone installed the Seven Piece Nylatron Rocker Arm Spacer kit that replaces all of the tension springs? If so, do you find it an improvement over the stock set up? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From curtfisher at insightbb.com Sat Jul 28 20:10:26 2007 From: curtfisher at insightbb.com (Curt Fisher) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 21:10:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] front wheel wobble on TR3A Message-ID: <000601c7d185$a16ae020$d1a9884a@DH40XPB1> Dear listers, My front wheels, especially the passenger side wobble and cause a definite judder when driving. I know there is some play in my steering assembly. I can grab the front right wheel at 3 and 9 O'clock and move it about 1/3". The drivers front will move almost 1/4". (Neither wheel has any play when pulling at 12 and 6 O'clock.) The suspension has all new Urothane bushings and new wheel bearings that I think are as tight as they should be. The play all seems to be in the steering assembly and the suspension seems quite snug. I have now replaced all the ball joints, the idler assembly, and the silent block bushings. I checked the end float (seemed ok) and adjusted the cam mesh per the Haynes manual instructions. When I tug on the drop arm from the steering box with everything else disconnected, it seems quite tight and immovable. When I move the wheel the play looks like it comes partly from verticle play in the silent block bushings and a small movement of the drop arm from the steering box. I put the new silent block busings in the tie rod with a large hammer, perhaps pressing would have been better? I wonder if that amount of play is perhaps not too unusual, and the "wobble" and "judder" I get is due mostly to out of true wheels? The wheels are stock steel discs. The tires are new Kumhos. I'll probably swap wheels around tomarrow and see it makes any difference. I would be willing to buy a set of Pannasports if I knew that would fix the problem, but don't want to waste the money if it won't help. Any thoughts on what to try next? Is the amount of play I describen excessive for this design? Any suggestions much appreciated. Curt Fisher 59TR3a 03 Mini Cooper Spec Racer Ford www.CurtFisherRacing.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jul 29 07:48:41 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 09:48:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Link Message-ID: <000001c7d1e7$2ebae7c0$210110ac@bobspc> When I rebuilt my front end over the winter I also redid the front sway bar bushings and sway bar link assembly. In looking at the sway bar link the other day something is obviously very wrong as it's all torn apart. The part I'm talking about is the treaded piece that attaches to the suspension has a ball on the other end that fits into the sway bar link and is cushioned with rubber. Hope that makes sense. You can see the piece here (http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/t6/0082.asp) Anyway, the rubber is all chewed up and the metal housing that the ball goes in to is also somewhat chewed up. It's the same on both sides. As I recall, I first fitted the sway bar to the frame and then attached the link assembly to the suspension bracket. In order to do that I had to jack each side up a little to get it to line up. The car was still on jack stands and the link assemble bolt and bracket hole wouldn't line up with the car un-sprung. So what did I do wrong? Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007 3:50 PM From gkoftx at juno.com Sun Jul 29 09:19:31 2007 From: gkoftx at juno.com (George E Killinger) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 10:19:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Turn Signals on a TR-6 Message-ID: <20070729.101931.1648.0.GKofTX@juno.com> The Driver's side turn signals (both front & back) on my 1972 TR-6 will not come on. The passenger side is fine, and when the hazard flashers are turned on, all four lights work. Based on that, I don't think I have a bulb or flasher problem. Thoughts and recommendations? George Killinger 1972 TR-6 Original owner Houston, TX From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Jul 29 10:33:56 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 12:33:56 EDT Subject: [TR] Turn Signals on a TR-6 Message-ID: In a message dated 7/29/2007 8:27:23 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, gkoftx at juno.com writes: The Driver's side turn signals (both front & back) on my 1972 TR-6 will not come on. The passenger side is fine, and when the hazard flashers are turned on, all four lights work. Based on that, I don't think I have a bulb or flasher problem. Thoughts and recommendations? George Killinger I don't know about TR6;s especially, but I know that on both my Stag and my TR3, my problems with flashers were solved when I went to each socket and ensure I had the correct bulb, and that I had the correct flashers Good Luck! Mike Moore . ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From odd at triumphclub.se Sun Jul 29 12:09:47 2007 From: odd at triumphclub.se (Odd Hedberg) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 20:09:47 +0200 Subject: [TR] Triumphest in TVT Message-ID: <001c01c7d20b$a62b0960$c700a8c0@DATOR01> Joe, I can assure you: You and your list is well known over here in the old world as well! /Odd Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:10:57 EDT From: Dave1massey at cs.com Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest in TVT To: spitlist at cox.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > In a message dated 7/27/2007 2:15:27 PM Central Daylight Time, > spitlist at cox.net writes: > I just got my June TVT today and see a writeup on Triumphest. > I made the photo page with my 2-Spit Display!!! > > I'm Famous! :) > Joe, you've been famous for a long time. /Dave -- Odd Hedberg Pomonagatan 4 International liaison secretary, TR8-rep., SE-74236 Osthammar Registervardare, MHRF-ansvarig mm mm Sweden Triumph Club of Sweden '80 TR8 DHC EFi TPZDV8AT211468 Midas Gold E-mail: odd at triumphclub.se Club URL: http://www.triumphclub.se/ Telephone/Mobilephone: Int+ 46-(0)17317131 / 46-(0)706917131 Geographical Position: N 60015'03.215" E 18022'40.770" +14.76m asl ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- -- From jimbpps at cox.net Sun Jul 29 12:32:46 2007 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 11:32:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest in TVT In-Reply-To: <001c01c7d20b$a62b0960$c700a8c0@DATOR01> References: <001c01c7d20b$a62b0960$c700a8c0@DATOR01> Message-ID: <07CC224E5EEA4D75A3577E11AF0644CF@JimofficePC> Joe, Damn! Internationally Famous! Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Odd Hedberg Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 11:10 AM To: spitlist at cox.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest in TVT Joe, I can assure you: You and your list is well known over here in the old world as well! /Odd Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:10:57 EDT From: Dave1massey at cs.com Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest in TVT To: spitlist at cox.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > In a message dated 7/27/2007 2:15:27 PM Central Daylight Time, > spitlist at cox.net writes: > I just got my June TVT today and see a writeup on Triumphest. > I made the photo page with my 2-Spit Display!!! > > I'm Famous! :) > Joe, you've been famous for a long time. /Dave -- Odd Hedberg Pomonagatan 4 International liaison secretary, TR8-rep., SE-74236 Osthammar Registervardare, MHRF-ansvarig mm mm Sweden Triumph Club of Sweden '80 TR8 DHC EFi TPZDV8AT211468 Midas Gold E-mail: odd at triumphclub.se Club URL: http://www.triumphclub.se/ Telephone/Mobilephone: Int+ 46-(0)17317131 / 46-(0)706917131 Geographical Position: N 60015'03.215" E 18022'40.770" +14.76m asl ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- -- From fishplate at charter.net Sun Jul 29 13:00:46 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 15:00:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Turn Signals on a TR-6 In-Reply-To: <20070729.101931.1648.0.GKofTX@juno.com> References: <20070729.101931.1648.0.GKofTX@juno.com> Message-ID: <20070729190042.MWZX26124.aa02.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 11:19 AM 7/29/2007, George E Killinger wrote: >The Driver's side turn signals (both front & back) on my 1972 TR-6 will >not come on. The passenger side is fine, and when the hazard flashers >are turned on, all four lights work. Based on that, I don't think I have >a bulb or flasher problem. > >Thoughts and recommendations? Almost has to be the turn signal switch...flasher switch is upstream. Look at the switch, and the bullet connectors nearby. Jeff Scarbrough Spitfires and a TR6... http://fishplate.org/vehicles/triumphs.jpg -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007 3:50 PM From rickandcecilia at comcast.net Sun Jul 29 14:07:44 2007 From: rickandcecilia at comcast.net (Rick & Cecilia) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 16:07:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Racing Jack - not steel, but a steal! References: <070120072043.28801.468811ED0006DE3E000070812205889116CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> Message-ID: <019b01c7d21c$20700d00$0b01a8c0@joshua> I knew I saved this email for a reason. Went to Walmart today and saw the jack. Great! I can't get a normal jack under my Lotus as it's only 4" Ground clearance. What a deal! Thanks for thinking of us. Rick 74_4576R Lotus Europa TCS 80 Spitfire ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 4:43 PM Subject: [TR] Aluminum Racing Jack - not steel, but a steal! > My regular hydraulic jack won't fit under the front end of my TR4 - its > lowest position is too high for the chassis. > > I have been eyeing, and almost bought, one of the aluminum racing jacks > from PepBoys, as they drop down to 3.3" and they have a nice long handle > with the relief valve integral to the handle. The only thing that put me > off was the sticker price...$99.00. > > I was very happy to see the same jack today, in my local WallyMart, at > $38.00. > > It was too good to leave behind. I brought it home and it really is well > made. Sure enough, it fits under the rad to reach the front cross member > on the chassis perfectly. This will mean lifting the front of the car for > stands will be a cynch. > > Just thought I'd let you guys know in case anyone is looking for something > similar, > > Cheers, > > Brian in Valley Forge > TR4 1963 > > Your messages not reaching the list? > Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html > > === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register > === http://www.vtr.org > > === Help keep Team.Net on the air: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net > === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > === http://www.team.net/the-local From brianjone5 at mac.com Sun Jul 29 14:33:30 2007 From: brianjone5 at mac.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 16:33:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wobbly wheels Message-ID: <5BF099A1-F379-461B-AEE6-1E117FD33D65@mac.com> I do not think 1/3" and 1/4 inch one way or the other would cause the wobble and judder you describe, though its certainly worth pursuing remedy for such play. Check wheel balance. I bought the portable balance from HF ($69 IIRC). Its surprisingly sensitive, allows you to rest a weight on the rim to achieve balance before you fit it. I could only find weights online, though they were cheap enough. Check the run-out on your a) rims, and b) tires - i.e. eccentricity while in rotation. I used a run-out dial, but any pointer held firmly will suffice. There is a reason why the Kumhos are $129 for a set of four at Tire Rack, and mine have noticeable run-out. There was some run-out at the rim of these 44 year-old wheels, but more at the tire, and that was with the tires correctly seated in the rim. Check your tires are correctly seated - look for the mounting line close to the rim edge - it should be a consistent distance from the rim all the way around. Find your best pair of wheels, and put them on the front. If all your wheels are bad, find a friend with Panasports and borrow them for a mile or two to see if they change anything. I put my best two steel wheels, newly balanced, on the front. It cured most of the problem, and I'm only really bothered by it when the wheel eccentricity is co-ordinated. It soon passes in a mile or two, as they work their way out of co-ordination. When I have my next windfall, I'll pick up some new wires and better tires. Good luck Brian 1963 TR4 From buja at insightbb.com Sun Jul 29 14:44:30 2007 From: buja at insightbb.com (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 15:44:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Turn Signals on a TR-6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: George E Killinger wrote: > The Driver's side turn signals (both front & back) on my 1972 TR-6 will > not come on. The passenger side is fine, and when the hazard flashers > are turned on, all four lights work. Based on that, I don't think I have > a bulb or flasher problem. > > Thoughts and recommendations? Change the bulbs front and back on the driver's side. As non-halogen bulbs age, the tungsten filament evaporates onto the inside of the glass bulb. This darkens the bulb (or can even turn it silver, in extreme cases) and decreases the cross sectional area of the filament, which increases its resistance and decreases the current flow through the filament. By design, the original equipment Lucas turn signal flasher is a current-sensitive device. Increasing the load shortens the "on" time, while decreasing the load lengthens the "on" time. The turn signal flasher was intentionally designed this way so it can let the driver know when something is wrong with the circuit, such as a burned-out bulb. Removing one bulb will decrease current flow to the point where the flasher will turn the remaining bulb on but won't flash it. Your existing bulbs have probably aged to the point where the combined current is no longer sufficient to flash the bulbs. In contrast, the hazard flasher is a current-insensitive device that has a fixed flash rate for 1, 2, 3 or 4 bulbs' worth of current. While you're changing bulbs, you might want to consider changing the passenger's side bulbs as well. Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From pethier at comcast.net Sun Jul 29 14:56:42 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 20:56:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Link Message-ID: <072920072056.1870.46ACFF09000F240B0000074E22070215539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > redid the front sway bar > bushings and sway bar link assembly. In looking at the sway bar link the > As I recall, I first fitted > the sway bar to the frame and then attached the link assembly to the > suspension bracket. In order to do that I had to jack each side up a little > to get it to line up. The car was still on jack stands and the link assemble > bolt and bracket hole wouldn't line up with the car un-sprung. So what did I > do wrong? When installing a sway bar and its attendant links, you should have the full weight of the car on the tires. Put the tires on solid riser blocks of some sort. Drive-on ramps work for this (you can use your floor jack to get there, you don't have to drive up the ramps. If you can't get blocks to hold up the back tires on the car, get your jackstands as close to the rear axle line as possible. Of course, you will have no jackstands or jacks on the front of the car. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From CarlSereda at aol.com Sun Jul 29 16:33:16 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 18:33:16 EDT Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob Message-ID: Hi all, Are there any other TR4 owners/restorers out there finding a problem with the upper front valance 'parking light BRACKETS' located in the wrong position behind the grill's lamp holes? I have 2 upper valances and 4 grills. It looks t o be that the parking lamp support brackets were welded in the wrong location from factory on both valances.. I'd like to have these brackets function (stabilizing the 2 parklamps and grill corners). This would require drilling ou t spot welds, repositioning brackets and re-welding. WERE ALL PARK LAMP BRACKETS POSITIONED WRONG FROM FACTORY!?! - anyone have lamp holes that line up with the brackets? Any tips? Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Jul 29 16:56:15 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 15:56:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2579223C18E74B60A3DE695C036C1AB9@GeoPC> I recall no alignment problem there when I R&Red the grille & lights for cleaning. Is your issue with the 'parking lights' (the little ones up in the corner) or the turn signal flashers (the bigger one lower down)? Is it possible that the bracket location changed when they went with the larger (plastic) turn signal lights in mid-64? Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 3:33 PM Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob > ...the parking lamp support brackets were welded in the wrong location > from factory on both valances.. I'd like to have these brackets function > (stabilizing the 2 parklamps and grill corners)... From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Jul 29 17:27:11 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 19:27:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wobbly wheels; one man's experience References: <5BF099A1-F379-461B-AEE6-1E117FD33D65@mac.com> Message-ID: <001b01c7d237$fd6f42f0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Dear Listers, About a year ago, in preparation for a 2000 trek around the Great Lakes, I changed the wheels on my TR3 from 60 spoke Dayton wires to bolt on KN Minilite replicas, not because of any performance issues, but because it seemed to have become more and more difficult not only to source proper tubes, but also to find someone willing to install them. As I recall, I had a set of 165-15 Dunlops mounted on those wire rims, probably from the early '90s restoration. Kumho Solus 185/15 are presently mounted on the new rims. And, yes, I had to revert to the longer wheel studs to make this change. It has been the best upgrade I've ever made to the car. As an example, I had the '3 up to 4500 rpm in 4th this afternoon in overdrive, almost fast enough to keep up with traffic, without a shimmy, shake, or white knuckles. So I gained a lot more than the ease of maintenance I was after. I gained better handling and a much more secure car at Interstate speeds. No way would I go back to those skinny original wheels and/or tires; not if I intended to drive the car anyway. Wires are for show and steel wheels are for recycling as far as I'm concerned. That said, I have a bunch of TR3 and TR6 wheels free for pickup and a set of Dayton wires with adapters and knockoffs for sale...... Ed Woods From hakhutch at adelphia.net Sun Jul 29 19:04:44 2007 From: hakhutch at adelphia.net (Tim Hutchisen) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 20:04:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Link References: <000001c7d1e7$2ebae7c0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <001e01c7d245$9f6d1110$36955d18@UPSTAIRSOFFICE> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 8:48 AM Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Link > In looking at the sway bar link the > other day something is obviously very wrong as it's all torn apart. The > part > I'm talking about is the treaded piece that attaches to the suspension has > a > ball on the other end that fits into the sway bar link and is cushioned > with > rubber. Hope that makes sense. You can see the piece here > (http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/t6/0082.asp) Anyway, the rubber > is > all chewed up and the metal housing that the ball goes in to is also > somewhat chewed up. It's the same on both sides. As I recall, I first > fitted > the sway bar to the frame and then attached the link assembly to the > suspension bracket. In order to do that I had to jack each side up a > little > to get it to line up. The car was still on jack stands and the link > assemble > bolt and bracket hole wouldn't line up with the car un-sprung. So what did > I > do wrong? > > Thanks > > Bob Danielson Bob- If I'm understanding you correctly............You should've waited until the car was fully laden prior to tightening the links. Tightening them before the car is on the ground creates internal shear in the rubber sockets when the car gets put on the ground. Tim Hutchisen 71 TR6 (350 miles with the top down today) Day of Triumph show in Brookline MA. 70 GT6+ (daily driver) 60 TR3A (project) 74 Spitfire (project) From jerryvv at adelphia.net Sun Jul 29 18:03:50 2007 From: jerryvv at adelphia.net (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 20:03:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob References: Message-ID: <00b601c7d23d$1bf2bf40$6401a8c0@toshibauser> Carl, I have just begun a long awaited restoration of my TR4A today. I have a newly finished tub ready to install on my frame and so have begun to disassemble the original tub. I've owned this car since 1969 (it's a 1966) and it's never had front end damage. Your point is interesting so I went and looked at my 2 tubs. The original tub has those brackets welded at the 12 o'clock position but the rebuilt tub with a repro front valence has those brackets welded at the 9 o'clock position. So I guess I've found exactly what you have found. I don't know what effect this will have when I go to re-install the grill and the lights. I don't know if this addresses your concerns or just verifies your findings. It's a 4A as well so there is a slight difference between the grills but the light placement is the same. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 6:33 PM Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob > Hi all, > Are there any other TR4 owners/restorers out there finding a problem with the > upper front valance 'parking light BRACKETS' located in the wrong position > behind the grill's lamp holes? I have 2 upper valances and 4 grills. It looks t > o > be that the parking lamp support brackets were welded in the wrong location > from factory on both valances.. I'd like to have these brackets function > (stabilizing the 2 parklamps and grill corners). This would require drilling ou > t > spot welds, repositioning brackets and re-welding. > WERE ALL PARK LAMP BRACKETS POSITIONED WRONG FROM FACTORY!?! - anyone have > lamp holes that line up with the brackets? Any tips? > Regards, > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 From Tr3bob at aol.com Sun Jul 29 18:07:32 2007 From: Tr3bob at aol.com (Tr3bob at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 20:07:32 EDT Subject: [TR] polarization issue Message-ID: Hi Randall and guys, I should know how to handle this by now, but I need to run it by you for confirmation. The charging circuit on my TR3A seems to have quit suddenly....it's positive ground. Here's the scenario: I was replacing the gaskets on the front HS-6 and needed to get the wrench in the very small space between the block and inner fender to release the banjo bolt. After the operation I noticed the ignition light remained with the engine reving. The ammeter dropped into the negative when I turned on the lights so the circuit seems to be OK. Could I have somehow unpolarized the generator by inadvertently touching the field and power connections on the back side of the generator as I swung the wrench? I did notice a bare spot on the field wire and these connectors are very close to the swing of a wrench when removing the banjo bolt on the front carb. I've already ordered a new regulator as the generator checks out OK, but wondering if it is necessary...the regulator is only 4 years old. Could you please repeat instructions to repolarize if this is the case...I stupidly discarded the original. Is there anything I need to be aware of if I change out the regulator? Thanks so much for your help. Bob Stahlbush ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jul 29 18:36:57 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 20:36:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Link In-Reply-To: <001e01c7d245$9f6d1110$36955d18@UPSTAIRSOFFICE> References: <000001c7d1e7$2ebae7c0$210110ac@bobspc> <001e01c7d245$9f6d1110$36955d18@UPSTAIRSOFFICE> Message-ID: <000e01c7d241$bf450ff0$210110ac@bobspc> That's what my mistake was then.......guess I'll be ordering new links ;-( Was the Triumph show at the Brookline Transportation Museum today Tim? That's a great location. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Hutchisen Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 9:05 PM To: Bob Danielson; 'Triumph Sportscar discussion'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Sway Bar Link ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Triumph Sports car discussion'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 8:48 AM Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Link > In looking at the sway bar link the > other day something is obviously very wrong as it's all torn apart. > The part I'm talking about is the treaded piece that attaches to the > suspension has a ball on the other end that fits into the sway bar > link and is cushioned with rubber. Hope that makes sense. You can see > the piece here > (http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/t6/0082.asp) Anyway, the > rubber is all chewed up and the metal housing that the ball goes in to > is also somewhat chewed up. It's the same on both sides. As I recall, > I first fitted the sway bar to the frame and then attached the link > assembly to the suspension bracket. In order to do that I had to jack > each side up a little to get it to line up. The car was still on jack > stands and the link assemble bolt and bracket hole wouldn't line up > with the car un-sprung. So what did I do wrong? > > Thanks > > Bob Danielson Bob- If I'm understanding you correctly............You should've waited until the car was fully laden prior to tightening the links. Tightening them before the car is on the ground creates internal shear in the rubber sockets when the car gets put on the ground. Tim Hutchisen 71 TR6 (350 miles with the top down today) Day of Triumph show in Brookline MA. 70 GT6+ (daily driver) 60 TR3A (project) 74 Spitfire (project) No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007 3:50 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007 3:50 PM From bbrewer at tvwireless.net Sun Jul 29 18:40:28 2007 From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 17:40:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels verse Dunlop Message-ID: <96A5B424-1F45-41D9-95B2-65619704C6BC@tvwireless.net> I bought a slightly used set of MOSS Dunlop 60 spoke painted wire wheels. They had no paint chipped off from curb rubs and still had the MOSS stickers on them. The hubs were used, but appeared to still fit tight. I have enjoyed the classic looks. Unfortunately, one wheel has developed a serious clunk and has play on the hub. Another wheel just broke a spoke and gave me a flat tire when the spoke pushed through the tape into the tube. In the short run, I plan to replace the busted spoke and put more tape over the nipples and keep driving with the clunk. I was considering upgrading to Dayton 60 spoke chrome/SS spoke wheels and new hubs at considerable expense. Either that or Minilites or Panasports, although they don't look as period. Can the Daytons be used with tubeless tires or do you still need tubes? Is it realistic that the Daytons never need truing? What is the best deal on Daytons and new hubs? it looks like British Wire Wheel in Fresno might be best for me (3 hours away). Has anyone dealt with them? What works best at lubing the splined hubs? I used high temperature grease last time and it was rusted on when I tried to remove them. I plan to used anti-seize next time. It might be a yearly maintenance activity from now on. TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA 1960 TR3A From CarlSereda at aol.com Sun Jul 29 18:47:04 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 20:47:04 EDT Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob Message-ID: thanks JVV, The TR4 & 4A valances have slight mods from each other. Based on some pics in books, the 4A eliminated the PARKING lamp 'brackets' because they sent those lamps out to the wings. I see in MossUk and other documenting books that the position of the DIRECTIONAL lamp brackets was 7pm-R & 5pm-L position (from drivers seat view) on the TR4, and changed to 12 noon for both directionals on the TR4A. It's just weird that my parking lamp brackets are quite tidily positioned near the edge on BOTH valances, I'd have to get medeivel with heavy pliers to get the bracket-slots to line up with the grill lamp hole - I might break them before landing them in the right position. The DIRECTIONAL lamp brackets in comparison were decently easy to adjust by twisting/turning/pliering but the PARKING lamp brackets are koo-koo. Carl ps; congrats on your 4A resto progress! << Carl, I have just begun a long awaited restoration of my TR4A today...The original tub has those brackets welded at the 12 o'clock position but the rebuilt tub with a repro front valence has those brackets welded at the 9 o'clock position. JVV>>


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Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From CarlSereda at aol.com Sun Jul 29 18:54:27 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 20:54:27 EDT Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob Message-ID: Geo, I'll send you a photo of what I mean.. maybe you'll recognize my problem since you R&R'd your TR4 grill recently. This is my second valance replacement on this car .. I tossed my original mangled one back in '78 - that's where the answer might have been. Out to my garage for a photo or two.. Carl << I recall no alignment problem there when I R&Red the grille & lights for c leaning. Is your issue with the 'parking lights' (the little ones up in the corner) or the turn signal flashers (the bigger one lower down)? Is it possi ble that the bracket location changed when they went with the larger (plastic ) turn signal lights in mid-64? Geo >> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From bbrewer at tvwireless.net Sun Jul 29 19:15:35 2007 From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 18:15:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes Message-ID: <5B65390F-14B5-4634-8D91-CFB99D5605E1@tvwireless.net> I am back to the perennial question of tires and tires sizes for a TR3. My last set were Michelin 165-15's that were more expensive that I would have liked. The only 165-15's that I find on tirerack.com are Kumhos for $32 each. The local tire buffoons what $65 each for the same Kumhos mounted & balanced. My best friend says use Vredesteins or something like that. Another TR friend got a set of Cooper Metrics. Any other online tire sources with TR3 sizes? What's the usual consensus these days. I should have paid more attention with what has recently been posted on the list. TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA 1960 TR3A From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Sun Jul 29 19:21:11 2007 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Patricia Donnelly) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 18:21:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Turn Signals on a TR-6 In-Reply-To: <20070729.101931.1648.0.GKofTX@juno.com> References: <20070729.101931.1648.0.GKofTX@juno.com> Message-ID: <46AD3D07.2060201@san.rr.com> Have you checked the fluid level? I buy mine at http://www.kaleco.com under Maintenance. Johnnie George E Killinger wrote: > The Driver's side turn signals (both front & back) on my 1972 TR-6 will > not come on. The passenger side is fine, and when the hazard flashers > are turned on, all four lights work. Based on that, I don't think I have > a bulb or flasher problem. > > Thoughts and recommendations? > > George Killinger > 1972 TR-6 > Original owner > Houston, TX > _______________________________________________ > pdonnel1 at san.rr.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Jul 29 19:21:45 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 21:21:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts In-Reply-To: <006701c7c867$ddc0b850$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <469b8ce8.61.6ef6.5843@cogeco.ca> <006701c7c867$ddc0b850$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <001d01c7d247$fe2c5e20$284d3b47@Scott> Ed, I got the screws. Thanks so much! Scott -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 7:45 AM To: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca; Triumph Sports car discussion Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Caged nuts List, I bought a box off 100 a quarter of a century ago from "The House of a Million Screws", The Service Supply Company in Indianapolis, IN. They are caged like the originals ans snap right in the original square hole. Thread is 8-32. I used brass screws to avoid the tin worm. If the person that was in need and started this thread will contact me off list, I will send him a set. Ed Woods This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jul 29 19:18:42 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 21:18:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200707292118.43154.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 29 July 2007 06:33 pm, CarlSereda at aol.com wrote: > Hi all, > Are there any other TR4 owners/restorers out there finding a problem with > the upper front valance 'parking light BRACKETS' located in the wrong > position behind the grill's lamp holes? I have 2 upper valances and 4 > grills. It looks t o > be that the parking lamp support brackets were welded in the wrong location > from factory on both valances.. I'd like to have these brackets function > (stabilizing the 2 parklamps and grill corners). This would require > drilling ou t > spot welds, repositioning brackets and re-welding. > WERE ALL PARK LAMP BRACKETS POSITIONED WRONG FROM FACTORY!?! - anyone have > lamp holes that line up with the brackets? Any tips? > Regards, > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 > ************************************** Carl, I just completed my 63 restoration and the grill lined up perfectly with all 4 valance brackets. Both the parking lights and directionals are secured by all brackets. That grill and lights are very solid with all those speed nuts! The Triumph engineers really didnt want the grill falling off! As far as I can tell, it was the orginal valance. I did replace the lower valance but that did not affect the alignment of the brackets in the upper part. It sounds like you have a 4A valance with the 4 grill. Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jul 29 19:21:10 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 21:21:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes In-Reply-To: <5B65390F-14B5-4634-8D91-CFB99D5605E1@tvwireless.net> References: <5B65390F-14B5-4634-8D91-CFB99D5605E1@tvwireless.net> Message-ID: <200707292121.11152.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 29 July 2007 09:15 pm, William Brewer wrote: > I am back to the perennial question of tires and tires sizes > for a TR3. My last set were Michelin 165-15's that were more > expensive that I would have liked. The only 165-15's that I find on > tirerack.com are Kumhos for $32 each. The local tire buffoons what > $65 each for the same Kumhos mounted & balanced. My best friend says > use Vredesteins or something like that. Another TR friend got a set > of Cooper Metrics. > Any other online tire sources with TR3 sizes? > What's the usual consensus these days. I should have paid more > attention with what has recently been posted on the list. > > TIA, > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA > 1960 TR3A > _______________________________________________ Bill, The Cooper 165/15 are no longer made. I was able to locate a set 2 years ago during the start of my 4 restoration. They are a nice tire if you can get a set. My local dealer had about 20 or so 2 years ago, mainly for Bugs he said. Bob From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jul 29 19:52:24 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 21:52:24 EDT Subject: [TR] polarization issue Message-ID: In a message dated 7/29/2007 7:10:09 PM Central Daylight Time, Tr3bob at aol.com writes: > Could I have somehow unpolarized the generator by inadvertently touching > the > field and power connections on the back side of the generator as I swung > the > wrench? I did notice a bare spot on the field wire and these connectors are > > very close to the swing of a wrench when removing the banjo bolt on the > front > carb. > > I've already ordered a new regulator as the generator checks out OK, but > wondering if it is necessary...the regulator is only 4 years old. Could you > > please repeat instructions to repolarize if this is the case...I stupidly > discarded the original. Is there anything I need to be aware of if I change > out the > regulator? > I don't hink you could have unpolarized the generator with your wrench unless it struck the generator with phenominal speed or some other impossible scenario. But repolarizing it is simple: remove the wire from the field terminal on the generator, using a piece of wire or a jumper test lead momentarily connect the generator field to the batter hot terminal (this works either Positive or negative ground), then reconnect the wire to the field terminal. Cheers Dave From CarlSereda at aol.com Sun Jul 29 19:53:56 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 21:53:56 EDT Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob Message-ID: Thanks Bob, Maybe I do have a TR4A valance for my TR4 .. the first one I installed was about 1978. The second one is identical and installing now.. I will also send photos to you maybe you'd recognize difference.. on a TR4A, maybe they retained park lamp brackets (in slightly different position) for the new grill even though the lamps went to wings??? I've got the bottom light (directional brackets lined up perfectly) but the parking lamps another story.. I agree about the stamped grill being very sturdy whence bolted on - I'm impressed! regards, Carl << Carl, I just completed my 63 restoration and the grill lined up perfectly with all 4 valance brackets. Both the parking lights and directionals are secured by all brackets. That grill and lights are very solid with all those speed nuts! The Triumph engineers really didnt want the grill falling off! As far as I can tell, it was the orginal valance. I did replace the lower valance but that did not affect the alignment of the brackets in the upper part. It sounds like you have a 4A valance with the 4 grill. Bob >>


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Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Btmfdchn at aol.com Sun Jul 29 20:09:43 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 22:09:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels verse Dunlop Message-ID: In a message dated 7/29/2007 5:47:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time, bbrewer at tvwireless.net writes: I bought a slightly used set of MOSS Dunlop 60 spoke painted wire wheels. They had no paint chipped off from curb rubs and still had the MOSS stickers on them. The hubs were used, but appeared to still fit tight. I have enjoyed the classic looks. Unfortunately, one wheel has developed a serious clunk and has play on the hub. Another wheel just broke a spoke and gave me a flat tire when the spoke pushed through the tape into the tube. In the short run, I plan to replace the busted spoke and put more tape over the nipples and keep driving with the clunk. I was considering upgrading to Dayton 60 spoke chrome/SS spoke wheels and new hubs at considerable expense. Either that or Minilites or Panasports, although they don't look as period. Can the Daytons be used with tubeless tires or do you still need tubes? Is it realistic that the Daytons never need truing? What is the best deal on Daytons and new hubs? it looks like British Wire Wheel in Fresno might be best for me (3 hours away). Has anyone dealt with them? What works best at lubing the splined hubs? I used high temperature grease last time and it was rusted on when I tried to remove them. I plan to used anti-seize next time. It might be a yearly maintenance activity from now on. TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA 1960 TR3A Greetings Bill... Daytons are far better than the current production of "Dunlop" wheels. If your hubs are OK (try fitting a different wheel on that hub and see if it still clunks) and you want to stay with wires, get the 72 spoke wheels as they are considerably stronger and more reliable than the 60's. Use CopaSlip on the splines (British Wire Wheel sells it). I've heard nothing but good about the Kuhmos and know some people who had bad experiences with Vredestein. TJ ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Jul 29 20:38:28 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 22:38:28 EDT Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels verse Dunlop Message-ID: In a message dated 7/29/2007 5:47:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, bbrewer at tvwireless.net writes: What is the best deal on Daytons and new hubs? it looks like British Wire Wheel in Fresno might be best for me (3 hours away). Has anyone dealt with them? Yes-They can ship mounted tires via UPS. This is as goo9d a price as ihave seen. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sun Jul 29 20:52:28 2007 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 19:52:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels verse Dunlop References: <96A5B424-1F45-41D9-95B2-65619704C6BC@tvwireless.net> Message-ID: <00bd01c7d255$16460850$8701a8c0@Dell> Bill, I bought the Dayton 60 spoke chrome/SS about 7 years ago. I've been running them without tubes and have had no problems. At the time, British Wire Wheel was in Santa Cruz, not too far for me, so I drove down there and they did it all. I did replace the hubs at the same time, I don't see any reason to risk the investment in the wheels with worn hubs, especially if that's where your clunk is coming from. I've been using white lithium grease on the hubs, I pull the wheels at least once a year to clean them and always renew the grease, I haven't had any of it harden on me. HTH. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 5:40 PM Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels verse Dunlop > I bought a slightly used set of MOSS Dunlop 60 spoke painted > wire wheels. They had no paint chipped off from curb rubs and still > had the MOSS stickers on them. The hubs were used, but appeared to > still fit tight. I have enjoyed the classic looks. Unfortunately, one > wheel has developed a serious clunk and has play on the hub. Another > wheel just broke a spoke and gave me a flat tire when the spoke > pushed through the tape into the tube. > In the short run, I plan to replace the busted spoke and put > more tape over the nipples and keep driving with the clunk. > I was considering upgrading to Dayton 60 spoke chrome/SS spoke > wheels and new hubs at considerable expense. Either that or Minilites > or Panasports, although they don't look as period. > > Can the Daytons be used with tubeless tires or do you still > need tubes? > Is it realistic that the Daytons never need truing? > What is the best deal on Daytons and new hubs? it looks like > British Wire Wheel in Fresno might be best for me (3 hours away). Has > anyone dealt with them? > What works best at lubing the splined hubs? I used high > temperature grease last time and it was rusted on when I tried to > remove them. I plan to used anti-seize next time. It might be a > yearly maintenance activity from now on. > > TIA, > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA > 1960 TR3A From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jul 29 21:30:03 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 21:30:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes In-Reply-To: <200707292121.11152.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <20070730033020.BB2D5187AA5@autox.team.net> Discount Tire has an Arizonian metric. I just mounted a set of Nankang 165/15 ($250. mount/bal/new tubes) from Burt Brothers and am quite happy with them. The guy let me stand there and supervise everything, we even marked the best two(least runout) while it was on the spin-balalncer to put on the front. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L(O) (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 7:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: William Brewer Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes On Sunday 29 July 2007 09:15 pm, William Brewer wrote: > I am back to the perennial question of tires and tires sizes for > a TR3. My last set were Michelin 165-15's that were more expensive > that I would have liked. The only 165-15's that I find on tirerack.com > are Kumhos for $32 each. The local tire buffoons what > $65 each for the same Kumhos mounted & balanced. My best friend says > use Vredesteins or something like that. Another TR friend got a set of > Cooper Metrics. > Any other online tire sources with TR3 sizes? > What's the usual consensus these days. I should have paid more > attention with what has recently been posted on the list. > > TIA, > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA > 1960 TR3A > _______________________________________________ Bill, The Cooper 165/15 are no longer made. I was able to locate a set 2 years ago during the start of my 4 restoration. They are a nice tire if you can get a set. My local dealer had about 20 or so 2 years ago, mainly for Bugs he said. Bob _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007 3:50 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007 3:50 PM From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sun Jul 29 22:34:33 2007 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 21:34:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] '75 or '76 Wire Harness Needed Message-ID: <880315.71731.qm@web37509.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi- I need a used '75 or '76 wire harness...just the underhood part needs to be good. If you have replaced yours due to a hacked up underdash part, I could make use of the underhood portion. A stinking rotten pack rat made a nest under my hood and evidently thought copper wire would be a nice interior accent. I know new harnesses are available....don't need one. I want to make use of a good used underhood portion of an old harness. Thanks, Chad From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Jul 30 06:31:25 2007 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 05:31:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Survey Request Message-ID: <720062.61597.qm@web51612.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List! I'm doing a survey for TR4A owners with SH6 SU Carburetors with the center down pull linkages, ONLY! I would like you people to go out to your TR's & measure (to the nearest 1/16 th of an inch) the length of: 1- LONG (horizontal) Link Rod Ass'y 2- Short (vertical) Link Rod Ass'y Remember that the Short (vertical) Link Rod Ass'y is to cross under the Throttle Connecting Rod to the Bellcrank. I shall collect this data & report back to the list (later) my findings. PLEASE send this information to ME as I'm on the digest list. Also, It looks like my subscription to Norton anti-virus & my service provider are going to expire @ the end of this month. Being that I've gone to 3 national TRIUMPH conferences this year, I will most likely have to drop these services. Which means that I will not be able to get on the inter net from my home. So it looks like I'm to the Public Library, to retrieve my mailings. So I'm only going on a bi-weekly or monthly bases. This is why I may not be thanking you right away when I receive your E-mails. Thank You for your understanding. -Cosmo Kramer --------------------------------- Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jul 30 06:45:14 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 08:45:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] polarization issue In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46ADA51A.16594.3AE292F@localhost> In a message dated 7/29/2007, Tr3bob at aol.com writes: > Could I have somehow unpolarized the generator How dull. I was hoping for nice pithy comment about Dubya or Hillary. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.25/926 - Release Date: 7/29/2007 11:14 PM From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jul 30 08:32:16 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 08:32:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] polarization issue In-Reply-To: <46ADA51A.16594.3AE292F@localhost> Message-ID: <20070730143233.342F51879D9@autox.team.net> Something like hit them with a spanner and the hot side terminal? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 6:45 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] polarization issue In a message dated 7/29/2007, Tr3bob at aol.com writes: > Could I have somehow unpolarized the generator How dull. I was hoping for nice pithy comment about Dubya or Hillary. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.25/926 - Release Date: 7/29/2007 11:14 PM _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007 3:50 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007 3:50 PM From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Jul 30 08:36:12 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 09:36:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inflating Tires w/ Nitrogen? References: <002701c7cec9$c8278510$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> <00a401c7cedc$8b9d7e70$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <000c01c7d2b6$faaa3cd0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> >> I don't believe this is true. Nitrogen is a gas and at the kinds of >> pressures we are talking about it can be considered an ideal >> gas, with >> pressure, temperature and volume expressed according to the >> relationship: >> >> pV = NRT > > I agree. > > However, there may be at least some truth to the claim that the pressure > changes less with dry nitrogen than with wet air. Water vapor doesn't > obey > the ideal gas law very well, especially when it's saturated as can easily > happen in a tire. And since it's difficult to know how much water vapor > you > got, it's also more difficult to predict how it will behave over > temperature. > Good point - I agree totally. A quick look at my steam tables shows that the specific vloume of water vapor changes at a much higher rate than dry air, for a similar temperature and pressure change. Mike From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Mon Jul 30 08:40:25 2007 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 10:40:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob Message-ID: <2296B6C1-CFB5-4025-9CF0-C1ED844E2ABF@mgcarclub.com> > Are there any other TR4 owners/restorers out there finding a > problem with the > upper front valance 'parking light BRACKETS' located in the wrong > position > behind the grill's lamp holes? I have 2 upper valances and 4 > grills. It looks t > o > be that the parking lamp support brackets were welded in the wrong > location That sort of rings a bell . . . I did mine about 10 years ago with a NOS part that probably was later than a 4. The brackets may have changed with the 4A/250 grille and lights and may be wrong for a 4. Allen From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jul 30 08:56:57 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 10:56:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels verse Dunlop Message-ID: Bill, I have been away so I may be a little behind the curve on this topic, but, if you matched your new wires to old splines that may explain some of the noise you are getting. I have reseached this issue about tubeless and those who I consider to be in the know say that the tubeles wires WILL leak. (not may) There is no way to keep the spokes from flexing and eventually, as I am told, the seals will leak. As to the quality of the wheel, I have used the Dunlops if I had it to do all over again I would have gone for the Daytons. There is no comparison in quality and if this is a car that you actually want to drive with less maintenance and less vibration, get the Daytons. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Mon Jul 30 08:59:34 2007 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 10:59:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob Message-ID: > Are there any other TR4 owners/restorers out there finding a > problem with the > upper front valance 'parking light BRACKETS' located in the wrong > position > behind the grill's lamp holes? I have 2 upper valances and 4 > grills. It looks to > be that the parking lamp support brackets were welded in the wrong > location Just looked at my original front valence (CT13678) and the parking light bracket is in the 12 o'clock position, pointing down, so that the speed nut on the bracket lines up with the top hole/slot in the grill. Allen From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jul 30 09:29:22 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 11:29:22 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A oil cooler Message-ID: OK, this has gotten a little more interesting. I have asked a number of people the question of the best location for the oil cooler and I have been told by one old timer, to lay it flat over a cutout in the shroud where the crank guide is. He said that there is plenty of airflow at speed to make it effective and it will not interfere with the radiator. What say the list? Frankly, this does not sound like a good idea to me, but I am open! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Jul 30 09:44:07 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 11:44:07 EDT Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels verse Dunlop Message-ID: In a message dated 7/29/2007 6:46:26 PM Mountain Daylight Time, bbrewer at tvwireless.net writes: Can the Daytons be used with tubeless tires or do you still need tubes? Is it realistic that the Daytons never need truing? What is the best deal on Daytons and new hubs? it looks like British Wire Wheel in Fresno might be best for me (3 hours away). Has anyone dealt with them? What works best at lubing the splined hubs? I bought a set of Daytons for my MG MIdget a couple of years ago. They are tubeless and I've had no issues with them at all. I got them from British WW and found them great to do business with. I bought new tires from Tire Rack and had them drop shipped to BWW and they mounted and balanced them at no charge. I used a silver neverseize from the local autparts (in case it leaked I wanted it to be less evident) and have had no problems removing a rear wheel a couple of times (for access to the fuel pump). YMMV Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Jul 30 09:45:02 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 11:45:02 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A oil cooler Message-ID: In a message dated 7/30/2007 8:30:36 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: OK, this has gotten a little more interesting. I have asked a number of people the question of the best location for the oil cooler and I have been told by one old timer, to lay it flat over a cutout in the shroud where the crank guide is. He said that there is plenty of airflow at speed to make it effective and it will not interfere with the radiator. What say the list? Frankly, this does not sound like a good idea to me, but I am open! David, I don't know if you plan on seriously racing your car or not, or what your objective is. My objective in my car was to provide as mush cooling as reliably as I could to both the engine and the oil. I installed a finned cat oil sump. It holds a whole lot more oil (7 qts?) and gets cooling air across the fins under the car. I also installed a temp gauge-but that's not needed. I ampleased with it. Mike Moore 59 TR3A ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Jul 30 10:54:07 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 12:54:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] clankcase noise Message-ID: <004a01c7d2ca$403c0310$bb0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> The noise is clankety-clankety. I figure its in the clankcase. From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Jul 30 11:14:25 2007 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 10:14:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels verse Dunlop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have had very good luck with the wire wheel guy in Santa Cruz, CA John Blake He has a process that seals the spoke ends, forever, a silicone product that takes a few days to cure, we had this done to the TR6s 72 spoke Daytons (he can also true and repair wires), and are completely happy. I would not hesitate to go tubeless if I felt the need. John works out of his garage, so has a low overhead, but is a master of his trade. > >Can the Daytons be used with tubeless tires or do you still >need tubes? >Is it realistic that the Daytons never need truing? >What is the best deal on Daytons and new hubs? it looks like >British Wire Wheel in Fresno might be best for me (3 hours away). Has >anyone dealt with them? >What works best at lubing the splined hubs? -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From cfisher at borgwarner.com Mon Jul 30 11:31:26 2007 From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 12:31:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wobbly wheels Message-ID: Thanks to Brian & Bill etc. for the insights on wheel wobble. I took your advice and did some wheel swapping and replace the worst dinged rim with the spare and got a dramatic improvement. There is still some wobble, so I'll probably eventually go for a new set of tires/rims, but at least now it's drivable. I'll try the tip on a couple extra PSI to help out of round tires next. Cheers, Curt Visit: www.CurtFisherRacing.com "Racing is life, anything that happens before or after is just waiting", Steve McQueen from Le Mans. "Racing is better than life. You only get one life, and if you screw it up, you have to live with the results. If you screw up a race, you get to start over fresh at the next one, and apply the lessons learned from your mistakes." Curt Fisher From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 30 12:10:37 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 11:10:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] clankcase noise In-Reply-To: <004a01c7d2ca$403c0310$bb0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <004a01c7d2ca$403c0310$bb0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <02d001c7d2d4$ee814f20$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > The noise is clankety-clankety. > I figure its in the clankcase. Oh dear, that's bad. Sorry to hear that, Paul. You have my sympathies. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Mon Jul 30 12:14:21 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 13:14:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 or 4 Diff bump stop Message-ID: <200707301814.l6UIEXWk149063@ns3.geneseo.net> A friend in Germany is looking for a diff bump stop. This is the part that bolts to the body sheet metal, directly over the nose of the diff, and has a rubber part that hangs down and under certain conditions contacts the diff. Does anyone have one, or know of a source for one? Thanks uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 30 12:29:43 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 11:29:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels verse Dunlop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <02d101c7d2d7$990a0200$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Can the Daytons be used with tubeless tires or do you still > need tubes? Only some of the Dayton wheels are rated "tubeless". I have them on my Stag and they seem to work fine. Didn't lose air even when a couple of spokes broke (which Dayton replaced under warranty). > I plan to used anti-seize next time. ISTR that's what the factory eventually recommended (Copa-slip). I'm going to try the copper-colored stuff next time. > It might be a > yearly maintenance activity from now on. Seems like a good idea to me. The factory specified every 5000 miles. Check the adapter nuts while you've got the wheels off. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From william.f.daehler at delphi.com Mon Jul 30 12:29:45 2007 From: william.f.daehler at delphi.com (Daehler, William F) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 13:29:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question Message-ID: So I was looking at the alternative upgrades for my ignition system, which is currently just points. Looks like I could buy a Petronix kit which replaces the points with a shutter and an optical trigger. But if I open my wallet even farther, I could get a Cranecams Fireball XR700 which has an optical trigger as well as an ignition module. What should I do? What are the pro and cons? Makes me really want to know what's inside that ignition module. Will in Wisconsin 63 TR4 Powder Blue ***************************************************************************** *********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. ***************************************************************************** *********** From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jul 30 12:32:04 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 18:32:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes Message-ID: <073020071832.28033.46AE2EA40006DE6200006D8122028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: William Brewer > I am back to the perennial question of tires and tires sizes > for a TR3. My last set were Michelin 165-15's that were more > expensive that I would have liked. The only 165-15's that I find on > tirerack.com are Kumhos for $32 each. The local tire buffoons what > $65 each for the same Kumhos mounted & balanced. My best friend says > use Vredesteins or something like that. Another TR friend got a set > of Cooper Metrics. > Any other online tire sources with TR3 sizes? > What's the usual consensus these days. I should have paid more > attention with what has recently been posted on the list. In 2002, I put onto the TR4 185-60 Kumho tires from Tire Rack. They balanced up fine on the new Dayton 60-spokes. I have picked up a couple of trophies at vintage autocrosses and had the fastest time of day at a small autocross at the Lake Superior Vintage Sports Car Rendezvous. They are certainly good enough to use. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From CarlSereda at aol.com Mon Jul 30 12:39:21 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 14:39:21 EDT Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob Message-ID: Thanks Allen, Sounds just like mine. Can you tell me if your brackets on your original TR4 valance are EXACTLY like mine in this attached photo? Please note how close the bracket is to the edge of valance - and too closely positioned over the wiring hole in valance.. same as your's? (I put a green dot where bracket-screw/slot needs to go to line up with my grill). Otherwise grill fits perfectly and is in fact all bolted in for this photo! Regards, Carl -------------------- Just looked at my original front valence (CT13678) and the parking light bracket is in the 12 o'clock position, pointing down, so that the speed nut on the bracket lines up with the top hole/slot in the grill. Allen ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of tr4 park lamp bracket missalign] From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jul 30 12:41:39 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 14:41:39 EDT Subject: [TR] polarization issue Message-ID: In a message dated 7/30/2007 7:45:47 AM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > >Could I have somehow unpolarized the generator > > How dull. I was hoping for nice pithy comment about Dubya or > Hillary. > Comedy is like most things in life, Jim, you get what you pay for. NFI Dave From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Mon Jul 30 12:42:03 2007 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 14:42:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive Message-ID: <46ae30fb.288.1897.18489@cogeco.ca> I broke the solenoid bracket putting the engine/gb back in the car, I replaced it without too much difficulty (would have been a lot easier if it was above or below the floor not spanning it #&$), now the overdrive comes on easily when engaged but if Im running for a while with it and have to disengage due to traffic etc.. then it likely wont re-engage until the car sits for a few minutes (fluid cools?), running without the for a while O/D doesnt seem to have the same effect. The fluid level is good and little lever on the other side of the case seems to line up with that little hole in the O/D case so Im at a loss as to the cause. I was going to try adjusting the arm the solenoid acts on it slightly up or down but as its such a pain to do I was hoping for something that would increase my odds from 50/50 on weather I should adjust up or down? Any votes? Thanks Art McEwen From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jul 30 12:54:43 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 18:54:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question Message-ID: <073020071854.29564.46AE33F3000246A40000737C22028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Daehler, William F" > So I was looking at the alternative upgrades for my ignition system, > which is currently just points. Looks like I could buy a Petronix kit > which replaces the points with a shutter and an optical trigger. You sure they are selling you an optical system? The positive-ground Pertronix I have on my TR4 is a hall-effect unit. It installed quite easily and did not even change the timing. I have had no trouble so far, but I keep the points and wiring instructions in a small plastic container in the glove box just in case. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Jul 30 14:23:04 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 16:23:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil cooler Message-ID: <380-22007713020234549@M2W018.mail2web.com> I'll give you my two cents worth  On my 40 Ford Pickup, I had a slight problem with overheating at idle, only with the air conditioning on. This is with a large aluminum radiator, mechanical seven blade flex fan with a shroud, in a puller configuration. The air conditioning condenser was mounted center, right in front of the radiator (less than 1/8 inch spacing) and the transmission cooler mounted right in front of the condenser (also less than 1/8 inch) but in the lower half . I re-arraigned the mounting of all three items, with the same positioning vertical and horizontal positions, but I spaced the items apart with about = inch between them instead of them being so close together. The temp gauge now never waivers, even with the air on! I have my GT6 oil cooler mounted out in front of the radiator, factory style and its probably about 6 inches away (not able to measure it at the moment) from the radiator - For what its worth  Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) *************original message*********************** OK, this has gotten a little more interesting. I have asked a number of people the question of the best location for the oil cooler and I have been told by one old timer, to lay it flat over a cutout in the shroud where the crank guide is. He said that there is plenty of airflow at speed to make it effective and it will not interfere with the radiator. What say the list? Frankly, this does not sound like a good idea to me, but I am open! x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 30 14:37:50 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 13:37:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive In-Reply-To: <46ae30fb.288.1897.18489@cogeco.ca> References: <46ae30fb.288.1897.18489@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <02f401c7d2e9$7f18e7a0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I was going to try adjusting the arm the solenoid acts on it > slightly up or > down but as its such a pain to do I was > hoping for something that would increase my odds from 50/50 > on weather I > should adjust up or down? Any votes? Have you checked how far the solenoid drops when not engaged ? If it drops too far, it could cause the symptom you describe. Some brackets had an adjustment for drop, but others just have a rubber block that can rot and fall out. Several people have suggested adding a bolt and nut to the later bracket, so the stop can be adjusted. Laycock specified a drop of 1/4", but some people have suggested using less, to be sure the solenoid can pull in every time. It's also common on older units for the "adjustment lever" on the side to not give the right adjustment. It's better, IMO, to measure the movement of the operating valve ball directly with a dial indicator. Both items are discussed in detail, with photos & diagrams, at : http://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/TransRebuild/OverDriveA02.pdf Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jul 30 14:38:34 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 16:38:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01c7d2e9$9b7d6dd0$210110ac@bobspc> Better yet, there's this one http://www.123ignition.nl/id/22.html It's a drop in replacement distributor. Only problem is you'd have to have your tach converted to electronic. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daehler, William F Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 2:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question So I was looking at the alternative upgrades for my ignition system, which is currently just points. Looks like I could buy a Petronix kit which replaces the points with a shutter and an optical trigger. But if I open my wallet even farther, I could get a Cranecams Fireball XR700 which has an optical trigger as well as an ignition module. What should I do? What are the pro and cons? Makes me really want to know what's inside that ignition module. Will in Wisconsin 63 TR4 Powder Blue **************************************************************************** * *********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************** * *********** _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007 3:50 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007 3:50 PM From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Mon Jul 30 14:52:02 2007 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 16:52:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive Message-ID: <46ae4f72.2e8.152d.22226@cogeco.ca> >> I was going to try adjusting the arm the solenoid acts on it > slightly up or > down but as its such a pain to do I was > hoping for something that would increase my odds from 50/50 > on weather I > should adjust up or down? Any votes? >Have you checked how far the solenoid drops when not engaged ? >If it drops too far, it could cause the symptom you describe. Not as such, no. I've checked that it moves smoothly every time, moving too far wasn't on my radar. >Some brackets had an adjustment for drop, but others just >have a rubber block that can rot and fall out. There's a stop in the new one that was certainly in better shape then the old one. >It's better, IMO, to measure the movement of >the operating valve ball directly with a dial indicator. But that would mean pulling the cover again, sigh.... Thanks. I'll read the pdf, if nothing else it will give me an idea of what I'm doing ;) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 30 14:53:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 13:53:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <030301c7d2eb$bd629310$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > So I was looking at the alternative upgrades for my ignition system, > which is currently just points. Looks like I could buy a Petronix kit > which replaces the points with a shutter and an optical trigger. The Pertronix uses magnets and a Hall Effect transistor, rather than shutter and optical trigger. > But if I open my wallet even farther, I could get a Cranecams Fireball > XR700 which has an optical trigger as well as an ignition module. > > What should I do? What are the pro and cons? Makes me really want to > know what's inside that ignition module. The XR700, like the Pertronix, is a simple "points replacement" device. Should be equivalent in terms of performance, since the spark energy is still determined by the coil rather than the module. Hard to say which is better, IMO. The Crane unit is slightly more sophisticated, with things like automatic shutdown when the engine is not turning (to prevent overheating the coil & module), and a LED on the side to help with troubleshooting. But the Pertronix is simpler to install, and lacks that big module to hide somewhere. I was disappointed and frustrated with the Crane XR3000 I bought for my TR3A (which is like the XR700 but has a capacitive-discharge circuit in the module); but I've heard from lots of other people that had trouble with the Pertronix. So if money is a concern, I'd go with the cheaper one. And carry the parts to convert back to points if it goes sour on the road. One nice thing about points, they almost always give you lots of warning when they go bad. Electronics are more apt to just stop working, IMO, plus can sometimes cause really weird problems. Eg the MSD unit I put on my Chevy, which would sometimes just stop working for just a minute or two on cold mornings; then work absolutely fine the rest of the day. Always worked fine when I started the engine, just long enough to get out in traffic, then it would die at idle, waiting for a light. Usually just long enough for me to get out and open the hood (much to the disgust of the other drivers behind me). After months of hunting for the bad connection; I finally replaced the MSD module and the problem disappeared. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jul 30 15:27:50 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 17:27:50 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A oil cooler Message-ID: Mike, Thanks. I am in tropical Florida and before I even start the car it is half way to overheating in the summer. I don't plan on racing but . . . As a 3 owner I am sure that you realize that of the 17" of vertical radiator 5" is below the crank hole and therefore below the grill airflow. I have removed the crank hole when I recored and am considering reshaping the metal shroud where the crank support sits in front of the radiator by sloping it downward toward the bottom tank of the radiator and mounting the oil cooler there directly in front of the radiator. I don't want to cut a hole below the grill as the racers do when it is mounted in that position. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 30 15:51:30 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 14:51:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] The aftermarket Rocker Arm Spacer kit In-Reply-To: <000401c7d18d$fab52d40$c52a144c@computer> References: <000401c7d18d$fab52d40$c52a144c@computer> Message-ID: <032501c7d2f3$c98ff850$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Has anyone installed the Seven Piece Nylatron Rocker Arm > Spacer kit that > replaces all of the tension springs? If so, do you find it > an improvement > over the stock set up? Jim, I even bought two of Joe's kits. But IMO it won't make any more improvement than a good wax job would, maybe less. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From ray at raysmg.com Mon Jul 30 16:02:12 2007 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 15:02:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes Message-ID: <20070730150212.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.7e35b77ab1.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Bill asked about tires for his TR3... Just over a year ago I was in need of a set of tires for my TR3; no problem, call a couple stores, get the best price, and schedule to have them put on. They're 165x15; the old set of Michelin's had dry rotted...no problem, everone carries Michelins. Well, no exactly...at least not in the size needed. What to do? I found a couple alternatives; I could get Kumhos for about $200 a for a set of 4...cheap and a brand I've heard of; Firestone Gillettes for about the same price, and another option, don't remember the (off) brand for about $260. All the tires recommended were available as a blackwall (my preference), radial, and tubeless. Before I went talked with any of the local dealers I checked out the internet...Coker.com. They listed Goodrich (two styles, a narrow whitewall and a wide whitewall) and their own Coker brand (again, a wide white); I eliminated both because they were only available as whitewalls. That left Michelin (same as what was on the car) and Vredestein (never heard of them). The Michelins ran $130 per tire plus $15/tire shipping. I passed over the Vredestein, but the Coker rep brought me back to it. Seems it is made in Sweden, looks good, good tread pattern, and according to the rep, can't be beat for the price...$85/tire (and again $15/tire for shipping). It's a 40,000 mile tire like most of the others. The clincher was this, the Michelins were out of stock and not expected for a couple months; the Vredesteins could be delivered within a week (turned out to be three days). During all this talk with Coker I learned a bit about wheels/tires...certainly more than the local tire store staff knew. Pat, the Coker guy, took a lot of time to explain about liners and whether or not to use a tube in a tubeless tire...remember, wire wheels. I ended up going with the Vredestein, with a heavy tube, and a liner. Only one place locally that I checked knew anything about liners in wire wheels, and they could not get 15" liners from any of their suppliers. I bought the Vreds from Coker and have been very pleased with the decision. They mount up nicely, balance well, and I've had no leak down problems. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 30 16:24:04 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 15:24:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive In-Reply-To: <46ae4f72.2e8.152d.22226@cogeco.ca> References: <46ae4f72.2e8.152d.22226@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <032d01c7d2f8$57548df0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > >It's better, IMO, to measure the movement of > >the operating valve ball directly with a dial indicator. > > But that would mean pulling the cover again, sigh.... FWIW, there's really no reason you can't go for a test ride with the tunnel out. I've done it lots of times, no worse than riding a motorcycle. Be a little careful about where you put your right hand, though. If you can duplicate the problem that way, then you can see an important piece of information : when the OD fails to engage, is the plunger up or down ? If it's down, then most likely the problem is electrical in nature; possibly the contact points inside the solenoid itself. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jul 30 16:40:51 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 18:40:51 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes Message-ID: In a message dated 7/30/2007 5:02:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ray at raysmg.com writes: That left Michelin (same as what was on the car) and Vredestein (never heard of them). I am sure that by now you know that Vreds are from Holland and have been around as a sports car tire for a long time. I hear people say all the time that they have never heard of them. I had them on a car, I think, it was in the 60s, but time flies, don't you know. Decent tires. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From mark at nashvilletn.org Mon Jul 30 16:55:12 2007 From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 17:55:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes References: <20070730150212.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.7e35b77ab1.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Message-ID: <0a3001c7d2fc$b046a5c0$0600a8c0@Dell9200> Bill, I put a set of Vredesteins on my TR4A with Dayton chrome tubeless wheels about 18 months ago. They have been good so far. no vibration and not a leak to date. I think they look "right" on the car too. You can see what they look like on the link below. Mark Nashville http://www.arrestmered.com http://www.tiresunlimited.com/vred_tires.htm From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Mon Jul 30 18:10:01 2007 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 20:10:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive In-Reply-To: <008401c7d2f5$110e7890$6401a8c0@toshibauser> References: <46ae30fb.288.1897.18489@cogeco.ca> <008401c7d2f5$110e7890$6401a8c0@toshibauser> Message-ID: <46AE7DD9.3030004@cogeco.ca> Gerald Van Vlack wrote: > Try looking at the wiring. > That answer can be applied to just about every problem in the list ;) I'll double check but I don't think that's the case, my wiring harness is brand new and the connections to the solenoid have new butt connectors. I haven't had it kick off on it's own, just fail to reengage. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Jul 30 18:22:29 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 20:22:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 or 4 Diff bump stop In-Reply-To: <200707301814.l6UIEXWk149063@ns3.geneseo.net> References: <200707301814.l6UIEXWk149063@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <200707302022.29534.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 30 July 2007 02:14 pm, Jack W. Drews wrote: > A friend in Germany is looking for a diff bump stop. This is the part > that bolts to the body sheet metal, directly over the nose of the > diff, and has a rubber part that hangs down and under certain > conditions contacts the diff. Does anyone have one, or know of a > source for one? > > Thanks > > uncle jack > > Jack, I remember this part during my recent TR4 restoration. To my knowledge it is a 4 not a 3 part. I cleaned, painted the one I removed from the 4 and since the rubber seemed to be ok, re-installed. I guess that is a good thing, because I cannot find this part on any parts catalog. Cant find the part in the TR4 parts list either. Maybe an email to Moss or TRF can get a part #. Bob From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Mon Jul 30 18:52:22 2007 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 17:52:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive References: <46ae30fb.288.1897.18489@cogeco.ca><008401c7d2f5$110e7890$6401a8c0@toshibauser> <46AE7DD9.3030004@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <00a401c7d30e$1d2734a0$8701a8c0@Dell> What kind of oil did you put in the trans? I've heard of instances where using too thin (or was it too thick?) an oil caused problems with engaging and disengaging the OD. Just a thought, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Art McEwen" To: "Gerald Van Vlack" Cc: Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 5:10 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive > Gerald Van Vlack wrote: >> Try looking at the wiring. >> > That answer can be applied to just about every problem in the list ;) > I'll double check but I don't think that's the case, my wiring harness > is brand new and the connections to the solenoid have new butt > connectors. I haven't had it kick off on it's own, just fail to reengage. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 30 19:32:25 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 18:32:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Taps & Dies In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <036601c7d312$a636f4c0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > In a message dated 7/27/2007 2:01:09 PM Central Daylight Time, > 308gtsi at adelphia.net writes: > > Seems like everything on my TR4a is fine thread pitch, so I'd buy > > everything > > from #6 up to 3/4 in fine pitch! > > > That's what I thought until I ran into coarse threads on my > exhaust manifold. > > 3/8-18 Nearly all of the threads into the cylinder head, engine block, transmission housing, and differential case are coarse threads. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Jul 30 19:53:49 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 21:53:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 or 4 Diff bump stop References: <200707301814.l6UIEXWk149063@ns3.geneseo.net> <200707302022.29534.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <002301c7d315$a3aff460$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> I recall Jerry Van Vlack pointing out the bump stop on a TR4 straight axle frame. TR3's never had then. Did both TR4's and 4A's have them? Ed Woods From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Jul 30 20:00:00 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 22:00:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive References: <46ae30fb.288.1897.18489@cogeco.ca><008401c7d2f5$110e7890$6401a8c0@toshibauser> <46AE7DD9.3030004@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <003101c7d316$80e067c0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Art, Sounds like lower pressure when hot to me. Time has come to measure it. Guage is 50 bucks on Ebay or make one yourself. If the o/d's in good shape, straight 30wt, non detergent oil will work fine as per John Esposito of Quantumechanics. If it's worn, something heavier might help; for a while anyway. Ed Woods From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Jul 30 21:14:11 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 23:14:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Clankcase Message-ID: <006d01c7d320$df73f040$bb0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Doug et al, Seems like I heard it as a joke: "My engine's going clankety, clankety... "It must be coming from the 'clankcase'" I think it was Lucille Ball or some other intellectual. Paul From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jul 30 21:32:10 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 21:32:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] Wedge 5 speed gearbox issues Message-ID: <46AEAD3A.9060500@bradakis.com> First off a quick note on list archives - they are where they were before, http://www.team.net/archive So this fellow brings a car into the shop, it has a Rover SD1 V8 mated to a TR8 5 speed gearbox. The issue is that about 3/4ths of the time the box shifts fine. But a bit too frequently it is really difficult to downshift from 3rd to 2nd, or to get it into first and finding reverse can be a bit troublesome. The clutch system seems to be working just fine and is most likely not part of the problem. I'm not that experienced with this particular model of transmission so I'm just standing around scratching my head a bit. Does this behavior sound like a common issue with this gearbox? Any hints on what to look for right off the bat? Fluid is fine, so I'm assuming it isn't something as simple as that. Any ideas on what to look for first? Thanks, mjb. From bdischer at blakedischer.com Mon Jul 30 23:07:32 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 01:07:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Another VTR Photo Gallery online Message-ID: <00cc01c7d330$b4d04ef0$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> I have placed a web gallery of VTR 2007 images online at http://www.fireflystudios.com/vtr2007pix/. It is admittedly a small collection at just over 200 images, but if anyone needs a couple hi-res copies for their newsletter or themselves, please contact me off list and I'll get you what you want. Cheers, Blake Discher From CarlSereda at aol.com Mon Jul 30 23:19:49 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 01:19:49 EDT Subject: [TR] tr4 restoring, photos Message-ID: Allen, Thanks a ton. Your photos clearly show that my park-lamp brackets are indeed 1/2" too low for a TR4 grill. Perhaps my two valances, the one I installed in '78 and the one I'm installing now, are in fact from TR4As. I will drill/reweld my brackets 1/2 inch UP based on your excellent documentary photos and my park-lamps will then tie in perfectly. Thanks again - I was stumped! Carl '63 TR4 since '74 << Carl, Here are some photos, I hope they clear things up. You might want to hang the fenders just to be sure that the grill is being correctly position ed. It looks like your piece is not in the car yet? So, I would try and put m ore together first temporarily and check fit. However, if the bracket seems w rong I wouldn't hesitate to reposition it. Allen >> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From efrenken at lctax.de Tue Jul 31 00:04:37 2007 From: efrenken at lctax.de (Frenken, Eric) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 08:04:37 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question Message-ID: <8F0D0744B564D511B0820002A551BB1A6FBEAC@lc-d-3.lctax.ads> Hi Will, for another (bulletproof) alternative look here: http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p6783?language=en Best regards Eric So I was looking at the alternative upgrades for my ignition system, which is currently just points. Looks like I could buy a Petronix kit which replaces the points with a shutter and an optical trigger. But if I open my wallet even farther, I could get a Cranecams Fireball XR700 which has an optical trigger as well as an ignition module. What should I do? What are the pro and cons? Makes me really want to know what's inside that ignition module. Will in Wisconsin 63 TR4 Powder Blue [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s] From efrenken at lctax.de Tue Jul 31 00:10:50 2007 From: efrenken at lctax.de (Frenken, Eric) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 08:10:50 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question Message-ID: <8F0D0744B564D511B0820002A551BB1A6FBEAD@lc-d-3.lctax.ads> Good recommendation, Bob, but there's no need to convert the tach on a TR4 (contrary to a TR6) when installing the 123ignition. It's plug'n'play in case your car is negative ground! Best regards Eric Better yet, there's this one http://www.123ignition.nl/id/22.html It's a drop in replacement distributor. Only problem is you'd have to have your tach converted to electronic. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daehler, William F Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 2:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question So I was looking at the alternative upgrades for my ignition system, which is currently just points. Looks like I could buy a Petronix kit which replaces the points with a shutter and an optical trigger. But if I open my wallet even farther, I could get a Cranecams Fireball XR700 which has an optical trigger as well as an ignition module. What should I do? What are the pro and cons? Makes me really want to know what's inside that ignition module. Will in Wisconsin 63 TR4 Powder Blue [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s] From Btmfdchn at aol.com Tue Jul 31 00:35:23 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 02:35:23 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question Message-ID: Greetings... I recently faced the dilema of what to do about the tired distributors in my TR engines (61 and 66) A friend had mentioned Advanced Distributors in Minnesota (_www.advanceddistributors,com_ (http://www.advanceddistributors,com) ) I communicated with Jeff and then sent him the 66 unit. He seems to have the parts for a rebuild including the big bushing ($30 installed). He can also convert the units to Pertronix which I did on the 66. He recurved it for what is now sold as "gasoline" here in California. End result, the cars starts and runs much much better and actually idles nicely-and I haven't touched the carbs. I sent him the distributor for the 61 and stayed with points. Likewise a transformation. He was able to rebuild the vac advance as well. ($50) NFI, just a very happy customer. TJ ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 31 06:04:02 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 08:04:02 EDT Subject: [TR] Wedge 5 speed gearbox issues Message-ID: In a message dated 7/30/2007 10:32:34 PM Central Daylight Time, mark at bradakis.com writes: > So this fellow brings a car into the shop, it has a Rover SD1 > V8 mated to a TR8 5 speed gearbox. The issue is that about > 3/4ths of the time the box shifts fine. But a bit too frequently > it is really difficult to downshift from 3rd to 2nd, or to get it > into first and finding reverse can be a bit troublesome. The > clutch system seems to be working just fine and is most > likely not part of the problem. > There was a similar complaint on the wedge list. The problem seemed to have resolved itself with no intervention from the owner but diagnoses ranged from poor lubrication in the exposed shifter mechanism to a foreign object caught in same. I forwarded the question to the wedge list for more input. Dave PS: My 5 speed has worked flawlessly over the last 7 years and 50, 000 miles. Hence I'm not much help here. From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Tue Jul 31 06:33:01 2007 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 08:33:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Distributor Shaft End Float Message-ID: <002d01c7d36e$efa94660$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> I'm preparing to re-install my rebuilt dizzy. Bentley (p. 90) says 5 thou and Vizard says 3 thou of end float as measured using a washer of known thickness and using feeler guages between the distributor pedestal and the engine block. Unfortunately, the gaskets that I have are all much too thick to use as shims. I think my new cam's mating drive gear is a tad smaller in diameter than stock, allowing the distributor drive gear to drop down more. I've tested end float with a dial indicator (jiggling the drive gear up and down), with the pedestal and a makeshift computer paper gasket (5 thou) in place and it is still a tad too sloppy. What I've read says that too much distributor drive gear slop leads to a loss of 2-3 hp due to timing jitter. How much of a gasket is needed between the distributor pedestal and the block to impede oil leakage? Can I get away with a thin copper shim of the right thickness? Has anyone else had this problem? From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Tue Jul 31 06:47:32 2007 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 08:47:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive Message-ID: <46af2f64.be.6b86.17049@cogeco.ca> > Art, > > Sounds like lower pressure when hot to me. Time has come to measure it. > Guage is 50 bucks on Ebay or make one yourself. > Yeah, it's just frustrating when it's all been recently buttoned up and it's likely only a small adjustment it needs, some how if it was a major job it would seem more worthwhile ;) > If the o/d's in good shape, straight 30wt, non detergent oil will work fine > as per John Esposito of Quantumechanics. If it's worn, something heavier > might help; for a while anyway. > I'm running Hypoid gear oil now. From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Tue Jul 31 07:32:05 2007 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 06:32:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive Message-ID: <606654.28117.qm@web80409.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Greetings Art, If you decide you need an overdrive pressure gauge set up, I can supply. Knowing what pressure the hydraulic system is making will help a lot in diagnosing your problem. Details: http://tinyurl.com/505s Brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Jul 31 07:40:52 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 09:40:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Wedge 5 speed gearbox issues Message-ID: In a message dated 7/30/2007 10:32:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, mark at bradakis.com writes: finding reverse can be a bit troublesome. I sometimes have trouble finding reverse in my TR8 too - usually right after driving my TR6 for a while where reverse is in a completely different place - I find the trouble i have finding reverse in one car is usually directly proportional to the time I have just spent in the other car - this problem seems to be getting worse as I get ...ah...less young. I also have trouble finding the overdrive switch in my TR8 and 5th gear in my TR6. I realize this isn't much help, but what did you expect from an AOL user. Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Tue Jul 31 08:04:26 2007 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 10:04:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR3A Intermittent overdrive Message-ID: <46af416a.183.70b3.137@cogeco.ca> $50 for presure gauge... ----- Message Forwarded on Tue, 31 Jul 2007 10:03:37 -0400 ----- From: Jay Holekamp To: Art McEwen Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: TR3A Intermittent overdrive Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 06:32:05 -0700 (PDT) Greetings Art, If you decide you need an overdrive pressure gauge set up, I can supply. Knowing what pressure the hydraulic system is making will help a lot in diagnosing your problem. Details: http://tinyurl.com/505s Brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Jul 31 08:21:29 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 10:21:29 EDT Subject: [TR] Wedge front springs Message-ID: Hey Guys, Since you are discussing Wedges. Does anyone have a recommendation of a supplier for front springs? Me 80 TR8 sits too low upfront and bottoms out when I go over a good size bump at speed. This is in spite of the fact that I replaced everything up there a few years ago with new springs and Konis. It was sitting too low from that point on. I am thinking about going back in there but I want the right stuff. Thanks in advance, Darrell BTW Jack, throw in a couple of Spits, GT6, 4 speed TR7 gearboxes along with your TR6 & TR8 shift patterns and then you have arrived into CRS land. The only tway I survive is those handy original knobs with the shift pattern on them. ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From fsz at redsa.com.ar Tue Jul 31 09:56:29 2007 From: fsz at redsa.com.ar (Fernando Sanchez Zinny) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 12:56:29 -0300 Subject: [TR] TR3A in Argentina. Valve clearence Message-ID: I4m trying to adjust the valve clearence on my TR3A and don4t have the book on hand. Can anybody refresh me which is the advisable clearence Thank you very much in advance Fernando From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 31 09:58:52 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 08:58:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A in Argentina. Valve clearence In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03dd01c7d38b$b11dbee0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I4m trying to adjust the valve clearence on my TR3A and don4t > have the book on > hand. Can anybody refresh me which is the advisable clearence .010" for both intake and exhaust, measured with the engine cold. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 31 10:03:14 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 12:03:14 EDT Subject: [TR] Wedge front springs Message-ID: In a message dated 7/31/2007 9:21:44 AM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > Since you are discussing Wedges. Does anyone have a recommendation of a > supplier for front springs? Me 80 TR8 sits too low upfront and bottoms out > when I > go over a good size bump at speed. This is in spite of the fact that I > replaced everything up there a few years ago with new springs and Konis. It > was > sitting too low from that point on. I am thinking about going back in there > but > I want the right stuff. > I am quite happy with the springs I got from Ted. That are a bit stiffer but not so stiff as to make the ride unpleasant on long trips. Dave From spamiam at comcast.net Tue Jul 31 11:02:38 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 17:02:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <073120071702.17880.46AF6B2E0005382B000045D82200763692030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> >Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 16:38:34 -0400 >From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> >Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question >To: "'Daehler, William F'" , > >Message-ID: <000e01c7d2e9$9b7d6dd0$210110ac at bobspc> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250" > >Better yet, there's this one http://www.123ignition.nl/id/22.html It's a >drop in replacement distributor. Only problem is you'd have to have your >tach converted to electronic. > > >Bob Danielson >1975 TR6 CF38503U >Running w/ Throttle Body Injection >http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org Are you sure about that? I have looked at these a little. It looks as if they are a LITERAL drop-in replacement. Admittedly, I was looking at one that would fit the TR4A, however. It looks as if they will fit in the original distributor pedastal, which on the TR2-4A (at least) engines has the tach drive in the pedastal. It looks as if the original tach drive would still work on my car. Not so on the TR6? Other than offering variable amounts of total advance, and being NEW not worn out, it does not seem to be all that much better than a more standard style distributor with an aftermarket electronic ignition. The installation instructions are not very thorough. The description of the vacuum advance functions is sketchy. The manual does not clearly chart the advance curve. Neither the vacuum advance curve, nor the "mechanical advance" curve of the electronic advance unit. I would be more comfortable with more info. -Tony From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 31 11:14:13 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 10:14:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR3A Intermittent overdrive In-Reply-To: <46af416a.183.70b3.137@cogeco.ca> References: <46af416a.183.70b3.137@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <03f001c7d396$37c019c0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote : > $50 for presure gauge... Not just the gauge, but also the funky adapter to connect it to the OD. Of course, you can make your own adapter by buying a spare valve plug, then drilling it and welding a fitting to it; but last I checked, a new plug is over $25, and a decent glycerin-filled gauge is $20, and Jay also supplies a hose ... Or if you have access to a lathe, you could try machining your own adapter. I just did that for my J-type (which is simpler than the A-type) ... if I factor in wear and tear on the lathe, I made less than minimum wage on the job. But it's a hobby, right ? Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jul 31 11:41:04 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 17:41:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question Message-ID: <073120071741.24403.46AF7430000DBC3F00005F5322007504389D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Btmfdchn at aol.com > (http://www.advanceddistributors,com) ) That should be > (http://www.advanceddistributors.com) ) -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From AMfoto1 at aol.com Tue Jul 31 12:42:10 2007 From: AMfoto1 at aol.com (AMfoto1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 14:42:10 EDT Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob Message-ID: Hi Carl, Hey, I think the two of us are vying for the longest TR4 restoration project in recorded history! I also have two upper valances: The one that was on my '62 when purchased in 1977 and a spare I bought a few years ago (both are pretty beat up). Those support brackets or "tabs" were removed (by me) from the "original" upper valance years ago because the car was fitted with a later TR4A grill that didn't use them (Note: I'm not sure the upper valance truly is original because the car had front end damage that had been repaired when I bought it, and I did additional work on it back in the 1970s when I first restored the car.) With the TR4A grill, those bracket/tabs just protruded through the grill and served no purpose. However, it's obvious from the weld residue that the two bracket/tabs were located at the 12 o'clock position to align with the upper mounting hole for the parking lights. I hadn't noticed before, but now looking at the spare upper valance I see it has them in a different position... the one you have noted! Supposedly this came off a TR4, too, if so then somewhere during the production run something must have been changed. Another clue. The original style TR4 grill I've got (intending to restore my car to original) has all the spire clips still on it. On both the parking and directional lights, the one hole (maybe slot would be a better description) that aligns with the support bracket/tab does not have a spire clip, because it is instead fitted on the bracket/tab itself. The top slot or hole on both the parking light cutouts lack the spire, while the bottom ones have theirs. So, based on these clues, I'd have to say the 12 o'clock position is the correct location for the brakcet/tab on our cars. This puts the bracket/tab sort of "horizontal" and leaves its outer (most forward, right behind the grill) 90 degree bent tang pointing straight downward, while the 90 degree bent tang that's used to tack weld the bracket to the upper valance points upward. Now, if I only had a set of those parking light assemblies to fit TR4. (Finally managed to get a good set of correct glass "beehive" directional lamps!) Oh well, I'm pretty sure decent repros are available. Cheers! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT176092L http://www.triumphowners.com/640 ******************************************************** Your point is interesting so I went and looked at my 2 tubs. The original tub has those brackets welded at the 12 o'clock position but the rebuilt tub with a repro front valence has those brackets welded at the 9 o'clock position. So I guess I've found exactly what you have found. I don't know what effect this will have when I go to re-install the grill and the lights. I don't know if this addresses your concerns or just verifies your findings. ********************************************************** ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From bbrewer at tvwireless.net Tue Jul 31 12:48:28 2007 From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 11:48:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Minilites on TR3 Message-ID: <85D2CBE7-6B2F-4A0C-BCC9-993C59016171@tvwireless.net> LBCarCo sells Minilite replicas for aproximately $200 apiece (with lug nuts & center cap). I was looking at the cost of new 60 spoke chrome Daytons. By the time you get the wheel, new hub and spinner you are looking at about $450 apiece. I am looking at my current situation: Slightly used Dunlops on slightly used hubs, breaking spokes, one wheel clunking on the hub, grease bleeding through the nipples, wondering if they are really true or not, wondering if the local tobacco spitting buffoons really can balance them or not, etc. etc.. I am thinking about making the jump to Minilite replicas (MOSS #456-055). Easier to change, easier to balance, easier to clean, stronger, easier to fix a flat on the road, easier to maintain, etc.. Any listers have Minilite replicas on their TR3's? Are Panasports worth the extra money? ISTR that a year or two ago there was string on the Minilites having poor build quality. Is that still true? TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA -Wheels still off of the TR From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Jul 31 12:54:36 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 14:54:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Wedge front springs Message-ID: In a message dated 7/31/2007 9:21:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: Me 80 TR8 sits too low upfront and bottoms out when I go over a good size bump at speed. This is in spite of the fact that I replaced everything up there a few years ago with new springs and Konis. It was sitting too low from that point on. I am thinking about going back in there but I want the right stuff. What springs did you get that make it sit so low? - hope you put bump stops on those Konis in the front - you can bend one or destroy the valving if it bottoms without bump stops. I agree with Dave about Ted's springs BTW Jack, throw in a couple of Spits, GT6, 4 speed TR7 gearboxes along with your TR6 & TR8 shift patterns and then you have arrived into CRS land. The only tway I survive is those handy original knobs with the shift pattern on them. yep - that's why I always lift my hand before I shift into reverse - and I didn't mention my wife's car - it has a thing you have to pull up to get in reverse and the clutch is so light I can't drive it in traffic without stalling it oh well Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Jul 31 13:06:11 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 15:06:11 EDT Subject: [TR] Wedge front springs Message-ID: In a message dated 7/31/2007 2:55:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: > What springs did you get that make it sit so low? - hope you put bump stops > > on those Konis in the front - you can bend one or destroy the valving if it > > bottoms without bump stops. > Jack, I did renew the bump stops. I put standard rated springs in from one of the big three. I was looking for the correct ride height. I do not wish to install any uprated springs that in theory lower the car but I may have to go that route since my confidence is low now on the standard springs available. Thanks, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From fpgowash at cox.net Tue Jul 31 13:15:53 2007 From: fpgowash at cox.net (Francis P. Gowash) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 15:15:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tire age Query Message-ID: Hi all, Seems that I vaguely recall a thread on tire age as determined by a code on the tire wall? Can't seem to find the key to this code. Can somebody remind me? The only thing I've found resembling codes on my tires are 25266-2 followed by DESIGN 9526. Following that, how does one determine replacement age of tires if car is driven very little (<500 miles/year) and tires look very good externally? Thanks much Fran 58 TR3A TS32465L Somers, CT From tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org Tue Jul 31 13:28:36 2007 From: tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org (Terry Geiger) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 14:28:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Minilites on TR3 References: <85D2CBE7-6B2F-4A0C-BCC9-993C59016171@tvwireless.net> Message-ID: <001001c7d3a8$fe067130$041e14ac@aitinc.local> Pack racing products also sells a minilite replica called "Superlite". A friend has some on a TR6 and my father has some on his GT6 and they've been pleased. NFI... http://www.packracingproducts.com/ Terry Geiger '74 Triumph TR6 | '63 Triumph Herald | '70 MGBGT | '84 Mercedes 300D Diesel http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 1:48 PM Subject: [TR] Minilites on TR3 > LBCarCo sells Minilite replicas for aproximately $200 apiece > (with lug nuts & center cap). I was looking at the cost of new 60 > spoke chrome Daytons. By the time you get the wheel, new hub and > spinner you are looking at about $450 apiece. I am looking at my > current situation: Slightly used Dunlops on slightly used hubs, > breaking spokes, one wheel clunking on the hub, grease bleeding > through the nipples, wondering if they are really true or not, > wondering if the local tobacco spitting buffoons really can balance > them or not, etc. etc.. I am thinking about making the jump to > Minilite replicas (MOSS #456-055). Easier to change, easier to > balance, easier to clean, stronger, easier to fix a flat on the road, > easier to maintain, etc.. > Any listers have Minilite replicas on their TR3's? > Are Panasports worth the extra money? > ISTR that a year or two ago there was string on the Minilites > having poor build quality. Is that still true? > TIA, > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA > -Wheels still off of the TR > _______________________________________________ > tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Jul 31 13:31:11 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 15:31:11 EDT Subject: [TR] Wedge front springs Message-ID: In a message dated 7/31/2007 2:06:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: I did renew the bump stops. I figured you would have. Previous owners of 2 of my TR8s put front shocks in without bump stops. One had Carreras - i poured the fluid that used to be in the shocks out of the shock tubes - a shame since Carrerra doesn't make em for the wedge anymore. I'll bet they were good - before the car bottomed the first time or two. The other had Konis - one was bent and the other had become infinitely adjustable I put standard rated springs in from one of the big three. I was looking for the correct ride height. I do not wish to install any uprated springs that in theory lower the car but I may have to go that route since my confidence is low now on the standard springs available. I've been told that the Wedges weren't all originally equipped with the same front springs - I just checked my original parts catalog - there were 5 different part nos for front springs, depending on whether you had a TR7 with a 4 or 5 spd, with or without AC, or a TR8 with or without AC. I guess if there's only one replacement choice for "standard" springs for all of those, you might get something that makes a TR8 w AC sit too low. Ted's springs will RAISE the ride height in a car with original springs that have settled and i would guess it will raise yours too. Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ghamilton99 at comcast.net Tue Jul 31 13:45:02 2007 From: ghamilton99 at comcast.net (ghamilton99 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 19:45:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] Tire age Query Message-ID: <073120071945.9759.46AF913D00098DF50000261F2213575333C7C702019B0407030E0809@comcast.net> Fran: Here is my recent response from Michelin, about my brand new $175 2000 Landcruiser spare: Gary, Thank you for using Michelin tires and for sending us your email. We appreciate the opportunity to serve you. While most tires will need replacement before they achieve 10 years, it is recommended that any tires in service 10 years or more from the date of manufacture, including spare tires, be replaced with new tires as a simple precaution even if such tires appear serviceable and even if they have not reached the legal wear limit. For tires that were on an original equipment vehicle (i.e., acquired by the consumer on a new vehicle), follow the vehicle manufacturer's tire replacement recommendations, when specified (but not to exceed 10 years). The date when a tire was manufactured is located on the sidewall of each tire. Consumers should locate the Department of Transportation or DOT code on the tire which begins with DOT and ends with the week and year of manufacture. For example, a DOT code ending with "2204" indicates a tire made in the 22nd week (May) of 2004. If your questions have not been answered to your satisfaction, please call me at 1-800-847-3435 (toll-free) between 8:30AM and 6:00PM Eastern Time Monday through Friday. Sincerely, Bobby Michelin North America Consumer Relations -- Thanks: Gary J. Hamilton -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Francis P. Gowash" > Hi all, > > Seems that I vaguely recall a thread on tire age as determined by a code on > the tire wall? Can't seem to find the key to this code. Can somebody remind > me? The only thing I've found resembling codes on my tires are 25266-2 > followed by DESIGN 9526. > > Following that, how does one determine replacement age of tires if car is > driven very little (<500 miles/year) and tires look very good externally? > > Thanks much > > Fran > 58 TR3A TS32465L > Somers, CT > _______________________________________________ > ghamilton99 at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 31 15:02:29 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 14:02:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tire age Query In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001f01c7d3b6$1bc01430$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Seems that I vaguely recall a thread on tire age as > determined by a code on > the tire wall? Can't seem to find the key to this code. Can > somebody remind > me? The only thing I've found resembling codes on my tires are 25266-2 > followed by DESIGN 9526. Should be much more than that, assuming the tires were sold in the US within the last 15 years or so. Here's a couple of links that may help : http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=33¤tpage=11 http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11 > Following that, how does one determine replacement age of > tires if car is > driven very little (<500 miles/year) and tires look very good > externally? Different sources give different numbers. I believe Ford & Chrysler recommend tires be replaced after 6 years, even if they have never been used. Tire failure is no fun at all, so I feel this is an area where it pays to be conservative, unless you only drive in parades. When I bought my Stag, the tires still had plenty of tread and I thought I could let them go until I bought new wheels. Less than 100 miles later, one of the rear tires flew apart, and the belts flayed all the paint off the fender before I could pull over. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Tue Jul 31 15:13:40 2007 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 22:13:40 +0100 Subject: [TR] Wedge 5 speed gearbox issues References: <46AEAD3A.9060500@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <013201c7d3b7$acd9cfa0$19911b56@Platinum> My first question would be what is the colour of the oil in the gearbox? Has someone filled it with ep oil? or 20/50? This would give a sluggish gearchange. The oil to use in the Rover/TR7 5speed is auto trans fluid and should be red in colour and very thin. You can buy special oil but auto trans fluid works perfectly. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J. Bradakis" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 4:32 AM Subject: [TR] Wedge 5 speed gearbox issues > First off a quick note on list archives - they are where they were > before, http://www.team.net/archive > > So this fellow brings a car into the shop, it has a Rover SD1 > V8 mated to a TR8 5 speed gearbox. The issue is that about > 3/4ths of the time the box shifts fine. But a bit too frequently > it is really difficult to downshift from 3rd to 2nd, or to get it > into first and finding reverse can be a bit troublesome. The > clutch system seems to be working just fine and is most > likely not part of the problem. > > I'm not that experienced with this particular model of transmission > so I'm just standing around scratching my head a bit. Does this > behavior sound like a common issue with this gearbox? Any > hints on what to look for right off the bat? Fluid is fine, so I'm > assuming it isn't something as simple as that. Any ideas on > what to look for first? > > Thanks, > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > dixie4.wales at virgin.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.25/926 - Release Date: > 29/07/2007 23:14 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jul 31 15:35:00 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 17:35:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <073120071702.17880.46AF6B2E0005382B000045D82200763692030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> References: <073120071702.17880.46AF6B2E0005382B000045D82200763692030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000001c7d3ba$a7f53030$210110ac@bobspc> Their site says "Triumph-owners should check if they need a connection for a mechanical rev.counter, as a 123\GB does not offer this." which to me says that there's no mechanical tach connection. I also saw a few guys with these at VTR and they had converted to an electronic tach. But everyone I've talked to who has one loves them. I was considering one before going the TBI route and my distributor is now the stock pedestal, a custom mounting plate, Chrysler electronics and a Jeep cap! Not very original at all....LOL Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spamiam at comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 1:03 PM To: Triumphs List Cc: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Subject: [TR] (no subject) >Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 16:38:34 -0400 >From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> >Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Electronic Ignition Question >To: "'Daehler, William F'" , > >Message-ID: <000e01c7d2e9$9b7d6dd0$210110ac at bobspc> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250" > >Better yet, there's this one http://www.123ignition.nl/id/22.html It's >a drop in replacement distributor. Only problem is you'd have to have >your tach converted to electronic. > > >Bob Danielson >1975 TR6 CF38503U >Running w/ Throttle Body Injection >http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org Are you sure about that? I have looked at these a little. It looks as if they are a LITERAL drop-in replacement. Admittedly, I was looking at one that would fit the TR4A, however. It looks as if they will fit in the original distributor pedastal, which on the TR2-4A (at least) engines has the tach drive in the pedastal. It looks as if the original tach drive would still work on my car. Not so on the TR6? Other than offering variable amounts of total advance, and being NEW not worn out, it does not seem to be all that much better than a more standard style distributor with an aftermarket electronic ignition. The installation instructions are not very thorough. The description of the vacuum advance functions is sketchy. The manual does not clearly chart the advance curve. Neither the vacuum advance curve, nor the "mechanical advance" curve of the electronic advance unit. I would be more comfortable with more info. -Tony _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.0/927 - Release Date: 7/30/2007 5:02 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.0/927 - Release Date: 7/30/2007 5:02 PM From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 31 15:41:04 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 17:41:04 EDT Subject: [TR] Wedge front springs Message-ID: In a message dated 7/31/2007 2:06:27 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > I did renew the bump stops. I put standard rated springs in from one of > the > big three. I was looking for the correct ride height. I do not wish to > install any uprated springs that in theory lower the car but I may have to > go that > route since my confidence is low now on the standard springs available. > The problem is there are three springs used across the line depending on TR7 vs TR8 and AC vs non-AC. VB sells one spring. And it is the wrong one. Putting in Ted's "lowered" spring raised my car at least an inch. And it dives less during braking. Dave From monypitgarage at cfl.rr.com Tue Jul 31 06:15:02 2007 From: monypitgarage at cfl.rr.com (John Peacock) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 08:15:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Wedge] Re: Wedge 5 speed gearbox issues References: Message-ID: <006e01c7d36c$6c81e7d0$0401a8c0@owner40f0f504b> Check the extension housing bushings. They wear out quickly and cause all sorts of problems.. John ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Cc: Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 8:04 AM Subject: [Wedge] Re: [TR] Wedge 5 speed gearbox issues > In a message dated 7/30/2007 10:32:34 PM Central Daylight Time, > mark at bradakis.com writes: >> So this fellow brings a car into the shop, it has a Rover SD1 >> V8 mated to a TR8 5 speed gearbox. The issue is that about >> 3/4ths of the time the box shifts fine. But a bit too frequently >> it is really difficult to downshift from 3rd to 2nd, or to get it >> into first and finding reverse can be a bit troublesome. The >> clutch system seems to be working just fine and is most >> likely not part of the problem. >> > There was a similar complaint on the wedge list. The problem seemed to > have > resolved itself with no intervention from the owner but diagnoses ranged > from > poor lubrication in the exposed shifter mechanism to a foreign object > caught > in same. > > I forwarded the question to the wedge list for more input. > > Dave > > PS: My 5 speed has worked flawlessly over the last 7 years and 50, 000 > miles. > Hence I'm not much help here. > -- > Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests > to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu From majortom at epub.com Tue Jul 31 07:00:01 2007 From: majortom at epub.com (Major Tom) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 09:00:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Wedge] Re: Wedge 5 speed gearbox issues In-Reply-To: <006e01c7d36c$6c81e7d0$0401a8c0@owner40f0f504b> References: <006e01c7d36c$6c81e7d0$0401a8c0@owner40f0f504b> Message-ID: <200707311259.l6VCxoWO021688@ss92.shared.server-system.net> This may be a problem which can be centered in many locations lubrication is the most likely , though the shifter housing may also be a culprit. Lubrication may be 2 locations, level and the oil pump. the level is relatively easy to check. The pump is not. It's an inspection and replacement. It may be noted that if it is the pump there may be permanent damage. MT At 08:15 AM 7/31/2007, John Peacock wrote: >Check the extension housing bushings. They wear out quickly and >cause all sorts of problems.. > > >John > >----- Original Message ----- From: >To: ; >Cc: >Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 8:04 AM >Subject: [Wedge] Re: [TR] Wedge 5 speed gearbox issues > > >>In a message dated 7/30/2007 10:32:34 PM Central Daylight Time, >>mark at bradakis.com writes: >>>So this fellow brings a car into the shop, it has a Rover SD1 >>>V8 mated to a TR8 5 speed gearbox. The issue is that about >>>3/4ths of the time the box shifts fine. But a bit too frequently >>>it is really difficult to downshift from 3rd to 2nd, or to get it >>>into first and finding reverse can be a bit troublesome. The >>>clutch system seems to be working just fine and is most >>>likely not part of the problem. >>There was a similar complaint on the wedge list. The problem seemed to have >>resolved itself with no intervention from the owner but diagnoses ranged from >>poor lubrication in the exposed shifter mechanism to a foreign object caught >>in same. >> >>I forwarded the question to the wedge list for more input. >> >>Dave >> >>PS: My 5 speed has worked flawlessly over the last 7 years and 50, 000 miles. >>Hence I'm not much help here. >>-- >>Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests >>to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu >-- >Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests >to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu > > >-- >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: >269.10.25/926 - Release Date: 7/29/2007 11:14 PM From StagHunter at comcast.net Tue Jul 31 07:52:01 2007 From: StagHunter at comcast.net (Wayne M Simpson) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 09:52:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Wedge] Re: Wedge 5 speed gearbox issues In-Reply-To: <200707311259.l6VCxoWO021688@ss92.shared.server-system.net> References: <006e01c7d36c$6c81e7d0$0401a8c0@owner40f0f504b> <200707311259.l6VCxoWO021688@ss92.shared.server-system.net> Message-ID: <46AF3E81.2090300@comcast.net> Major Tom wrote: > Lubrication may be 2 locations, level and the oil pump. the level is > relatively easy to check. The pump is not. Actually, there is a plug on the underside of the back cover. Remove the plug and run the engine, you should see oil coming from the hole, indicating the pump is working. _______________________________________________________________________ Wayne Simpson StagHunter at comcast.net 1973 Triumph Stag #LE 21416 U Carmine Red, Saddle Tan 1980 Triumph TR7 TPVDJ8AT202532 Inca Yellow, Golden Tan Check Lover of Triumph's 3 bastard Brick Township, NJ sons: TR7 - TR8 - STAG _______________________________________________________________________ From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Jul 31 18:36:07 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 20:36:07 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes Message-ID: I Find the e mail listed below rather troubling. 1. Complaint the last set of quality tires were more than they would like to spend. ( I suspect the tires gave excellent results ) 2. Quoting a low price for a tire (only, no install ) that is out of stock then complaining in # 3. 3. Calling the shop who can get the obsolete size tire and install it at a reasonable cost " buffoons ". Seems there will be no satisfying this person, reminds me of one of the reasons why I closed my shop 10 years ago. I suspect when a low cost tire is located complaints of poor quality will surface. How do I know the tire at Tire Rack is out of stock? I'm looking for a set for a older SAAB. Harold To: triumphs at autox.team.net > I am back to the perennial question of tires and tires sizes for > a TR3. My last set were Michelin 165-15's that were more expensive > that I would have liked. The only 165-15's that I find on tirerack.com > are Kumhos for $32 each. The local tire buffoons what > $65 each for the same Kumhos mounted & balanced. My best friend says > use Vredesteins or something like that. Another TR friend got a set of > Cooper Metrics. ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ray at raysmg.com Tue Jul 31 18:40:31 2007 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 17:40:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Minilites on TR3 Message-ID: <20070731174031.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.0530d6b31f.wbe@email.secureserver.net> I recently purchased, for an MG, a set of Superlites from Hap Waldrop at ACME Speed Shop in Greenville, SC; Hap distributes the wheels for Pack. They are VERY nice. I've already decided that when the wires on the TR3 go I'll be replacing them with the Superlites. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From CarlSereda at aol.com Tue Jul 31 18:44:00 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 20:44:00 EDT Subject: [TR] odd tr4 restoring prob Message-ID: Hi Alan, Good to hear from you.. I've had to start telling folks "it's not the destination... it's the journey" (but really.. wishing I could drive my TR4 the re!). In my latest quest I've found 3 versions of the upper TR4/4A valances. Attached is detailed photo of my TR(?) valance from a wrecking yard next to Allen H's known original TR4 valance. Allen's brackets are 1/2" higher above wiring hole and that's where I'm moving my brackets. Thanks for the tip on the spire locations - that's exactly what I'll do there. ps; the little front parking light fixtures not that easy to find 'good used' - I could use a better pair as well - maybe people will see this and get those TR4 FRONT PARKING LIGHTS up for sale! eh? Cheers, Carl '63 TR4 since - it's the journey! ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jul 31 18:50:46 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 20:50:46 EDT Subject: [TR] Minilites on TR3 Message-ID: Bill, The locals cannot work with wire wheels no matter what they tell you. I invested more than I care to admit listening to the buffoons and they never got it right. That makes me an idiot. I finally sent them to Hendrix and they got them right. NFI. That was on the TR6. I have the minilites on my 3A. I have 185 Vredesteins on the wheels and the look and handling is good. If I were you I would call someone who specializes in wire wheels and see what they say. It will not be cheap to ship them and have them trued and balanced and shaved; as I recall the shipping was $30 per wheel with tire, and the work was like $60 per tire, but I may be wrong. The end result is that you will be happy with the wires provided you don't auto cross with them. My 3A had steel wheels with 165s in great shape with pristine hubcaps, but the look isn't macho enough for me. (joke) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 31 19:03:01 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 18:03:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00ba01c7d3d7$b54dc270$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > 1. Complaint the last set of quality tires were more than > they would like to > spend. ( I suspect the tires gave excellent results ) Didn't sound like a complaint to me, just an observation that he was looking for less expensive tires. > 3. Calling the shop who can get the obsolete size tire and > install it at a reasonable cost " buffoons ". Seems too polite for some of the stores I've been to, once. Maybe it was you who : 1) Tried to refuse to honor the price in the newspaper ad (for an "obsolete tire") 2) Tried to charge for mounting even though the ad clearly stated it was included. 3) Told me you were out of new stems, then tried to charge me for the stems I provided. (There was a box of stems laying on the tire machine.) 4) Charged me for spin balancing, but didn't balance the tires at all until I complained. 5) Tried to charge extra for taking the tires back off so they could be balanced. > Seems there will be no satisfying this person, reminds me of > one of the > reasons why I closed my shop 10 years ago. "Methinks the lady doth protest too much" > How do I know the tire at Tire Rack is out of stock? Perhaps you looked at their web site, where it shows "Availability : Backordered" ? Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Jul 31 19:53:11 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 21:53:11 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes Message-ID: In a message dated 7/31/07 9:03:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: << Seems too polite for some of the stores I've been to, once. Maybe it was y ou who : >> Being I never sold tires I doubt that would have occured. Harold ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From buja at insightbb.com Tue Jul 31 20:16:37 2007 From: buja at insightbb.com (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 21:16:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wedge 5 speed gearbox issues In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Adrian wrote: > My first question would be what is the colour of the oil in the > gearbox? Has someone filled it with ep oil? or 20/50? > This would give a sluggish gearchange. > > The oil to use in the Rover/TR7 5speed is auto trans fluid and > should be red in colour and very thin. You can buy special > oil but auto trans fluid works perfectly. > > Adrian TR4A CT64306 O > Wales UK The Triumph recommended oil fill for the Rover LT77 5 speed changed from 75W gear lube in 1979 to Type F ATF in 1980 to Type G ATF in 1981. Do not use 80W90 or higher Gear Oil, as this tends to break the fiber oil pump gear teeth in cold weather. Broken oil pump gear teeth are fatal to this gearbox, which relies on forced oil lubrication to the tapered roller bearings throughout the gearbox. Don't forget that 75W Gear Oil is approximately the same viscosity as 30W engine oil, since the viscosities are measured at different temperatures. The TR8 CCA folks, including myself, have had very good luck with GM Synchromesh Transmission Fluid, which is a 75W gear oil compatible with yellow metals found in manual transmissions.. This fluid significantly improved the shift from 1st to 2nd, especially at cooler temperatures where I just couldn't get past a balky 2nd gear synchro when using Type F ATF. You'll need to purchase two quart bottles to refill the gearbox. Look for GM part numbers 12345349, 12345577, or 12377916 at your local GM dealer. Pennzoil also sells a Synchromesh Fluid that meets these GM specs. A Google search on "GM Synchromesh Transmission Fluid" will give you lots of positive comments on this gear oil. As previously mentioned, the shifter mounting bushings tend to perish over time, allowing the remote control housing to drop down and make gear selection "difficult". In extreme cases, the bottom of the remote control housing will rub on the output flange. You should not be able to raise or lower the shifter vertically - if you can, it's time to replace the eight bushings. One more thing - never flat tow a vehicle with the LT77 five speed unless the drive shaft is disconnected. The countershaft drives the oil pump gears and since the countershaft only turns when the engine is running, you'll quickly ruin the gearbox due to lack of oil flow to the upper bearings. I think Triumph limited a flat tow to less than 25 miles at less than 25 mph. Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From staffel at comcast.net Tue Jul 31 20:51:47 2007 From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 02:51:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 istrributor upgrade Message-ID: <080120070251.28015.46AFF543000EB5C800006D6F2200763704040A00000E9B9C@comcast.net> I've been very happy wiuth my Mallory Dual Point since my 98-2000 TR4 restoration, but today (2007)would do a Pertronix with LUCAS dist IF the dizzy shaft bearings are OK & no shaft wobble. I've converted two of my Lotus 907 Jensen GT's to Pertonix, and have had several MD-mid-cross continent trips no problem in the Jensen GT"s. Carl- good to see yopur post! BTW Mike Cook is here in INDY for our JCNA Challenge Championship (www.jcna.com) and told me about the VTR gathering. Sherman From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Jul 31 22:18:49 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 22:18:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] The Good, the Bad, and the KONE KILLER Message-ID: <46B009A9.60903@tscusa.org> Get a load of this look! Just needs a smoking stogie http://www.fireflystudios.com/vtr2007pix/index_6.htm#103 -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!