From sagreenwood at earthlink.net Sat Dec 1 01:59:19 2007 From: sagreenwood at earthlink.net (Stuart Greenwood) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 00:59:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] For sale 1980 Federal spec TR8 roadster Midas Gold/ Tan check, 61000 miles Message-ID: <410-22007126185919373@earthlink.net> If you are looking for a nice TR8 which has not been molested and is to the original spec please contact me. I have to move it since I need garage space so I am flexible on price sagreenwood at earthlink.net San Diego 71 Spitfire Mk IV, 71 Stag Mk I, 80 TR8 Federal From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Dec 1 07:13:53 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 09:13:53 EST Subject: [TR] Muffler anti resonator material Message-ID: In a message dated 11/30/2007 7:27:11 PM Central Standard Time, jmitch at snet.net writes: > I have a stock type stainless steel exhaust system on my TR6. It > tends to resonate more than a mild steel system. Is there anything like > a dynamat type product, that could be slapped onto the muffler to take > some of the tinny sound out of it, and wouldn't melt? Any ideas would > be appreciated. Thanks > I have expressed the same displeasure with the system on my car. I have not done anything about it yet but due to the temperatures involved one is limited on options. One thought I had was header wrap. Wrap the mubbler with this high temp material and secure it with some very long hose clamps (or a number of shorter ones in series). If the material can be held in intimate contact with the muffler it should dampen the resonances pretty effectively. Dave 71 TR6 (and others) From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Dec 1 09:20:43 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 11:20:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sparked out References: Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC51@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Not an LBC issue, but still I call upon the massed minds of the list. Oh list, hear me in my agony. My trials and tribulations overwhelm me. Without your help, surely walking shall await me all the days of the winter. While getting my winter Buick ready (somewhat late since there is already 4" of snow on the ground in Montreal) I managed to shear off a spark plug. It is off right at the edge of the head, so all that is left is the threaded section that actually screws in. What is the best method of removing this? Thankfully it is the number one plug (on a transverse V-6) so I can actually access it to a degree without having to pull the radiator. If it was the rear side which desperately needs new plugs then it would be game over and toss the car. The car is just not worth paying somebody to remove the head and it's too cold in the garage to do more than short-term heating with my Mr. Heater propane blower. I can start the car and, of course, it chuffs and hisses, but runs. I am, however, afraid to drive it far to a shop, as I am assuming that the fuel injection would rapidly fill the engine bay with an explosive fuel-air mixture more resembling an IED than a mode of transport. Is there a known screw extracter size, or a specific device? Left-hand drill and tap? I'll spend a little on a tool or whatnot, but not too much. The timing is brilliant since I just made up all new rocker panels and lower door edges by hand from #16 galvanized and replaced the whole lot. Mark Hooper 72 TR6 2006 DTS 1991 Buick (mostly dead it seems) From wbeech at flash.net Sat Dec 1 09:36:47 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 09:36:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Sparked out In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC51@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <20071201163700.9E04D1879F3@autox.team.net> I think I have seen 'easy-outs' designed for spark plugs, you might call around to your local parts stores. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Hooper Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 9:21 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Sparked out Not an LBC issue, but still I call upon the massed minds of the list. Oh list, hear me in my agony. My trials and tribulations overwhelm me. Without your help, surely walking shall await me all the days of the winter. While getting my winter Buick ready (somewhat late since there is already 4" of snow on the ground in Montreal) I managed to shear off a spark plug. It is off right at the edge of the head, so all that is left is the threaded section that actually screws in. What is the best method of removing this? Thankfully it is the number one plug (on a transverse V-6) so I can actually access it to a degree without having to pull the radiator. If it was the rear side which desperately needs new plugs then it would be game over and toss the car. The car is just not worth paying somebody to remove the head and it's too cold in the garage to do more than short-term heating with my Mr. Heater propane blower. I can start the car and, of course, it chuffs and hisses, but runs. I am, however, afraid to drive it far to a shop, as I am assuming that the fuel injection would rapidly fill the engine bay with an explosive fuel-air mixture more resembling an IED than a mode of transport. Is there a known screw extracter size, or a specific device? Left-hand drill and tap? I'll spend a little on a tool or whatnot, but not too much. The timing is brilliant since I just made up all new rocker panels and lower door edges by hand from #16 galvanized and replaced the whole lot. Mark Hooper 72 TR6 2006 DTS 1991 Buick (mostly dead it seems) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.12/1163 - Release Date: 12/1/2007 12:05 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.12/1163 - Release Date: 12/1/2007 12:05 PM From spitlist at cox.net Sat Dec 1 09:49:30 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 09:49:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Sparked out In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC51@exchange.terra-incognita.net> References: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC51@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <001601c8343a$24ef9e10$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Getting the thing out might be only part of the problem. After it is out, you might leave a lot of pieces on top of the piston as a result of drilling out the center of the plug to get an "Easy out" to work. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Hooper Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 9:21 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Sparked out Not an LBC issue, but still I call upon the massed minds of the list. Oh list, hear me in my agony. My trials and tribulations overwhelm me. Without your help, surely walking shall await me all the days of the winter. While getting my winter Buick ready (somewhat late since there is already 4" of snow on the ground in Montreal) I managed to shear off a spark plug. It is off right at the edge of the head, so all that is left is the threaded section that actually screws in. What is the best method of removing this? Thankfully it is the number one plug (on a transverse V-6) so I can actually access it to a degree without having to pull the radiator. If it was the rear side which desperately needs new plugs then it would be game over and toss the car. The car is just not worth paying somebody to remove the head and it's too cold in the garage to do more than short-term heating with my Mr. Heater propane blower. I can start the car and, of course, it chuffs and hisses, but runs. I am, however, afraid to drive it far to a shop, as I am assuming that the fuel injection would rapidly fill the engine bay with an explosive fuel-air mixture more resembling an IED than a mode of transport. Is there a known screw extracter size, or a specific device? Left-hand drill and tap? I'll spend a little on a tool or whatnot, but not too much. The timing is brilliant since I just made up all new rocker panels and lower door edges by hand from #16 galvanized and replaced the whole lot. Mark Hooper 72 TR6 2006 DTS 1991 Buick (mostly dead it seems) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Dec 1 10:41:41 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 12:41:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sparked out In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC51@exchange.terra-incognita.net> References: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC51@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <200712011241.41841.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 01 December 2007 11:20 am, Mark Hooper wrote: > Not an LBC issue, but still I call upon the massed minds of the list. Oh > list, hear me in my agony. My trials and tribulations overwhelm me. Without > your help, surely walking shall await me all the days of the winter. > > While getting my winter Buick ready (somewhat late since there is already > 4" of snow on the ground in Montreal) I managed to shear off a spark plug. > It is off right at the edge of the head, so all that is left is the > threaded section that actually screws in. What is the best method of > removing this? > > Thankfully it is the number one plug (on a transverse V-6) so I can > actually access it to a degree without having to pull the radiator. If it > was the rear side which desperately needs new plugs then it would be game > over and toss the car. The car is just not worth paying somebody to remove > the head and it's too cold in the garage to do more than short-term heating > with my Mr. Heater propane blower. > > I can start the car and, of course, it chuffs and hisses, but runs. I am, > however, afraid to drive it far to a shop, as I am assuming that the fuel > injection would rapidly fill the engine bay with an explosive fuel-air > mixture more resembling an IED than a mode of transport. > > Is there a known screw extracter size, or a specific device? Left-hand > drill and tap? I'll spend a little on a tool or whatnot, but not too much. > The timing is brilliant since I just made up all new rocker panels and > lower door edges by hand from #16 galvanized and replaced the whole lot. > > Mark Hooper > 72 TR6 > 2006 DTS > 1991 Buick (mostly dead it seems) Mark, Sears has a drill-out power extractors. Never tried them, but they may work. Here is a link. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952152000P?keyword=extractor Sears item# 00952152000 Mfr. model# 52152 In the mean time apply some pb blaster and heat. Bob From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sat Dec 1 10:13:26 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 12:13:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: Sparked out Message-ID: <007301c8343d$7cac3890$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> I assume the electrode was attached to the now departed body of the plug ... if so, the good news is that you are left with a pilot hole that will help center any easy out or drill that you use. I am not sure that any easy out will do much good, and it may end up doing more harm. The fact the threaded section has seized to the point where it sheared does sorta tell you that it is well and truly stuck! If the head it an alloy head, and you can get a lot of heat to the offending plug without incinerating anything else important, you "might" find an easy out will work. My son has a similar problem with an alloy head, caused by what looked like long term corrosion (and probably some dielectric effect as well). We drilled out the most of the body with a 9/16" drill. Once drilled, it was possible to "extract" what was left from the threaded section. I am guessing the heating, vibration and plain good fortune smiling on us, allowed the threaded bit to be levered out using picks and needle nose pliers. If that hadn't have worked, we did have the tapping drill (21/32") and the 14x1.25 tap, so we would have drilled and tapped the thread once more. Once this part is over, you will need to be able to put a pneumatic blow gun through the spark plug hole and blow the debris and crap out. Really take you time on this stage .... once thoroughly blown, I removed all the plugs and pulled of the igniter pack feed and turned the engine over on the starter for a good while too. Once it has started and run up to temp. I suggest changing the oil as well. If all this is too much, just pull the harness connector off the injector for this cylinder (it will be on the fuel rail that runs along the side of the valley). That will stop that injector admitting fuel to the cylinder and diluting your oil, etc., and live with the chuffing and puffing until things get warm! Good luck, ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Dec 1 10:17:06 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 17:17:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] Sparked out In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC51@exchange.terra-incognita.net> References: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC51@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: Try drilling through the center of the plug threads with a 1/4 inch bit. Soak the threads with penetrating oil. Then drive a piece of 1/4 inch square stock steel into the hole with a hammer. And then back the threads out using a wrench on the stock steel. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista. + Windows Live. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_M ediaCtr_bigscreen_102007 From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Dec 1 10:33:32 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 12:33:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: Sparked out References: <007301c8343d$7cac3890$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC55@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Good idea about the injector harness Tony: That way I can get it to a garage. I've been trying an extractor, but afraid to snap it off with everything so cold. Cheers, Mark ________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net on behalf of Tony Gordon Sent: Sat 01/12/2007 12:13 PM To: TR list Subject: [TR] Fw: Sparked out I assume the electrode was attached to the now departed body of the plug ... if so, the good news is that you are left with a pilot hole that will help center any easy out or drill that you use. I am not sure that any easy out will do much good, and it may end up doing more harm. The fact the threaded section has seized to the point where it sheared does sorta tell you that it is well and truly stuck! If the head it an alloy head, and you can get a lot of heat to the offending plug without incinerating anything else important, you "might" find an easy out will work. My son has a similar problem with an alloy head, caused by what looked like long term corrosion (and probably some dielectric effect as well). We drilled out the most of the body with a 9/16" drill. Once drilled, it was possible to "extract" what was left from the threaded section. I am guessing the heating, vibration and plain good fortune smiling on us, allowed the threaded bit to be levered out using picks and needle nose pliers. If that hadn't have worked, we did have the tapping drill (21/32") and the 14x1.25 tap, so we would have drilled and tapped the thread once more. Once this part is over, you will need to be able to put a pneumatic blow gun through the spark plug hole and blow the debris and crap out. Really take you time on this stage .... once thoroughly blown, I removed all the plugs and pulled of the igniter pack feed and turned the engine over on the starter for a good while too. Once it has started and run up to temp. I suggest changing the oil as well. If all this is too much, just pull the harness connector off the injector for this cylinder (it will be on the fuel rail that runs along the side of the valley). That will stop that injector admitting fuel to the cylinder and diluting your oil, etc., and live with the chuffing and puffing until things get warm! Good luck, ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sat Dec 1 10:52:04 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 12:52:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: Sparked out References: <007301c8343d$7cac3890$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC55@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <009101c83442$e2778a30$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> [TR] Fw: Sparked outLet's hope that it's port injection (which allows you to isolate one injectors) and not throttle body injection (which doesn't). Even if it is TBI, the volume of combustible mixture escaping from the broken plug is small. The biggest problem of unburnt fuel is the washing down into the sump and consequent dilution of the oil. You might also see the O2 sensor readings being affected ... but not enough to stop you driving it to the shop. I hear you on the easy out ... I have never had much success with them, and since they tend to be made from carbon steel, they are somewhat brittle, and if they break, you shut down the drilling and tapping options. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Hooper To: Tony Gordon ; TR list Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 12:33 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Fw: Sparked out Good idea about the injector harness Tony: That way I can get it to a garage. I've been trying an extractor, but afraid to snap it off with everything so cold. Cheers, Mark From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat Dec 1 11:26:44 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 13:26:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Muffler Anti-Resonator material In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If the exhaust is fitted correctly, I think the greatest amount of sound is out of the tailpipe, not through the walls of the exhaust. In my stuggles to get my exhaust right, I was considering a Monza Tip (other brands are available, but these seem reasonable in price): Fiberglass-packed, perforated inner tubes produce a deep mellow tone. 16-gauge steel tubing with chrome plating and gloss black paint finish. Designed for ALL cars and trucks. Dual outlet resonators have an overall length of 17". Single outlet resonators have an overall length of 16-1/2". http://tinyurl.com/yuc8hh Given the length, I'd attach it to my exhust as is, see if I like the sound, then cut the tailpipe to acommodate the tip. Brian > From: John Mitchell > Subject: [TR] Muffler anti resonator material > To: 6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>, "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > Message-ID: <4750B832.5080401 at snet.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > I have a stock type stainless steel exhaust system on my TR6. It > tends to resonate more than a mild steel system. Is there anything > like > a dynamat type product, that could be slapped onto the muffler to take > some of the tinny sound out of it, and wouldn't melt? Any ideas would > be appreciated. Thanks > John Mitchell 76 TR6 Looks like tomorrow may be the last ride > as they're predicting snow for Sunday:( From pethier at comcast.net Sat Dec 1 16:43:32 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2007 23:43:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] Sparked out Message-ID: <120120072343.20697.4751F1A4000B363B000050D922070229339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > Try drilling through the center of the plug threads with a 1/4 inch bit. Use a LEFT-HANDED twist drill. Drilling with a conventional right-hand drill will tighten the spark plug. Often the torque and vibration of drilling with a left-hand drill will back out the stuck object without using an E-Z-out at all. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Sat Dec 1 18:24:19 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2007 01:24:19 +0000 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK Message-ID: <120220070124.19506.47520943000BFF1400004C3222028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: acekraut11 at aol.com > I volunteer....just pay my way on the trip and I will drive for free! > > I know, nice of me. > > Aaron Hey! I offered first! -- Phil "no money but lots of vacation time" Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Dec 1 19:03:06 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2007 21:03:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Classic car rental UK In-Reply-To: <120220070124.19506.47520943000BFF1400004C3222028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <120220070124.19506.47520943000BFF1400004C3222028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CA029E9D68CDB6-28C-147E@webmail-me08.sysops.aol.com> Yes, I know.? You know how it goes, you respond to an earlier email only to discover that someone has already beaten you to the punch.? So, as I see it this can go a couple ways.? I am a civilized gentleman(stop laughing) and you did say you would drive first so I have first dibs if you dont work out.? However, if you would like to share duties, maybe they will let both of us take turns?? (By the way, did I mention that I have spoken English since birth so I can help translate?)? Sorry, that slipped out. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net To: acekraut11 at aol.com; DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us; dkspence at telus.net Cc: Triumphs at Autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 8:24 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Classic car rental UK From: acekraut11 at aol.com > I volunteer....just pay my way on the trip and I will drive for free! > > I know, nice of me. > > Aaron Hey! I offered first! -- Phil "no money but lots of vacation time" Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003 From banjonut at verizon.net Sat Dec 1 23:53:54 2007 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2007 22:53:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Delrin replacements for TR3A silentbloc bushings Message-ID: <005001c834b0$1af56f40$6500a8c0@HAMPC> Does anybody know if Moss carries the Delrin replacements for the old silentbloc bushings? Tnx Steve From DLylis at aol.com Sun Dec 2 05:08:36 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 07:08:36 EST Subject: [TR] Delrin replacements for TR3A silentbloc bushings Message-ID: I think just TRF or on eBay. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Sun Dec 2 06:25:22 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2007 07:25:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] Delrin replacements for TR3A silentbloc bushings In-Reply-To: <005001c834b0$1af56f40$6500a8c0@HAMPC> References: <005001c834b0$1af56f40$6500a8c0@HAMPC> Message-ID: <200712021325.lB2DPQk8157513@ns3.geneseo.net> TRF sells them. The original supplier also sells them -- Joe Alexander at N197TR4 at cs.com At 12:53 AM 12/2/2007, Steve Ball wrote: >Does anybody know if Moss carries the Delrin replacements for the old >silentbloc bushings? > >Tnx >Steve >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From darrellw at ipns.com Sun Dec 2 07:58:31 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 06:58:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] Setting static advance with Pertronix ignitor In-Reply-To: <20070924004133.QKNP23505.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070924004133.QKNP23505.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <02A00324-B96A-4EC6-8DE9-1891AED3EC14@ipns.com> On Sep 23, 2007, at 5:42 PM, Randall wrote: > >> Can one use a test light the same way that you do with a >> points system with a Pertronix system? There isn't any >> markings on the sensor/pickup to work off of. > > Although I can't find the instructions that I think said so; I'm > pretty sure > the answer is yes. The Ignitor unit acts pretty much exactly like > points. I just wanted to follow up on this. I installed by new Mallory distributor with the Pertronix, and it did indeed work like a points system in using a voltmeter/test light. But I also found that there was an audible click when it switched on/off as well (relay in the unit?), so the test light is just needed to make sure you are on right transition, the exact spot can be set with the click. -Darrell From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sun Dec 2 09:49:54 2007 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 10:49:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 in PDF Message-ID: <380-220071202164954375@earthlink.net> To All, Does anyone know where, on the internet, I might find a two dimensional side view of a TR3. I'm looking for the type of drawing that would be in a Bentley service manual. If someone on this list has the TR3 service manual on CD, could you forward that page to me? Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . From flashtr3 at cox.net Sun Dec 2 13:15:41 2007 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 12:15:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] Delrin replacements for TR3A silentbloc bushings References: <005001c834b0$1af56f40$6500a8c0@HAMPC> Message-ID: <004501c83520$1c78bf00$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I just installed mine from Joe Alexander, easier to install then the stock steering pins. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Ball To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 10:53 PM Subject: [TR] Delrin replacements for TR3A silentbloc bushings Does anybody know if Moss carries the Delrin replacements for the old silentbloc bushings? Tnx Steve _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org http://www.team.net/donate.html Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jmitch at snet.net Sun Dec 2 14:18:54 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2007 16:18:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bell exhaust system Message-ID: <4753213E.20700@snet.net> Does anybody know who sells the Bell brand stock type SS exhaust system. TRF and Moss don't list the manufacturer. Thanks John Mitchell From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Dec 2 16:26:31 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 18:26:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bell exhaust system In-Reply-To: <4753213E.20700@snet.net> References: <4753213E.20700@snet.net> Message-ID: <200712021826.31778.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 02 December 2007 04:18 pm, John Mitchell wrote: > Does anybody know who sells the Bell brand stock type SS exhaust > system. TRF and Moss don't list the manufacturer. Thanks > John Mitchell > _______________________________________________ > John, I got mine from Wishbone Classics a few years back. Very good price and service. But there seems to be a problem with them lately. One lister has said that they took his money for an engine rebuild and dropped off the planet. Their website is: http://www.wbclassics.com/ I would give them a call to see if they are still in business. Bob From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Dec 2 17:26:43 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (James Muller) Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2007 19:26:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] the weekend's trip report Message-ID: <1196641604.12983.11.camel@localhost> Whooooieeee. We Just got home from a weekend on Cape Cod in the GT6. Some frineds who live in Wellfleet had invited us for the weekend, and wouldntcha know, the weather reports started getting ominous. Serious snow for the high country and west a' wistah (west of Worcester), less on the Cape and Boston. We'd been hoping to take the GT6, and since the snow wasn't supposed to start here until quite late the GT6 is exactly what we took. We left Wellfleet about 4:30 this evening, got as far as the I-495/Rt24 interchange and it started snowing. That's may halfway home. A steady, slightly blowing, fine-crystal snow. By the time we hit 128 it was snowing like a big dog. Idiot drivers everywhere, tailgating like the road was dry and their speed was 25mph, except that it was more like 60-70. Nary a plow or salt truck in sight though, which was good news. Bridgestone Potenzas aren't exactly snow tires. Still, we made it home safely. Nobody got hurt in our field of view. The car ran like a champ, comfy and warm inside too. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From JJJKIMBRELL0357 at aol.com Sun Dec 2 17:43:13 2007 From: JJJKIMBRELL0357 at aol.com (JJJKIMBRELL0357 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 19:43:13 EST Subject: [TR] sparked out Message-ID: Mark: I don't know if your problem has been resolved or not but removing the plugs occasionally the plug body would come out & leave the thread part in when I worked at the dealership. Mac tools has an extractor E 5 that is square & tapers towards the end. This worked without any drilling,etc. for me on BMW's with an aluminum head. Jeff Kimbrell 1962 TR4 Marietta, Ga. **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Dec 2 18:50:47 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 20:50:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bell exhaust system In-Reply-To: <200712021826.31778.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <4753213E.20700@snet.net> <200712021826.31778.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <001001c8354e$ef6e8ce0$210110ac@bobspc> Kai Radicki and Wishbone is alive and well. He posted a notice on his site (http://tinyurl.com/3bwxx7) about being away for a few weeks during which time his voice mail and email filled up. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 6:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6-Pack Subject: Re: [TR] Bell exhaust system On Sunday 02 December 2007 04:18 pm, John Mitchell wrote: > Does anybody know who sells the Bell brand stock type SS exhaust > system. TRF and Moss don't list the manufacturer. Thanks John > Mitchell _______________________________________________ > John, I got mine from Wishbone Classics a few years back. Very good price and service. But there seems to be a problem with them lately. One lister has said that they took his money for an engine rebuild and dropped off the planet. Their website is: http://www.wbclassics.com/ I would give them a call to see if they are still in business. Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.12/1163 - Release Date: 12/1/2007 12:05 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.12/1163 - Release Date: 12/1/2007 12:05 PM From diggle at clear.net.nz Sun Dec 2 18:57:24 2007 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis) Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2007 14:57:24 +1300 Subject: [TR] Rear springs Message-ID: <000a01c8354f$d96d3300$6e01a8c0@athlon> I have had my rear leaf springs reconditioned which has left me with a solid axle TR4 that looks too high in the back end. Other members of my club have made comments about it being too high. I need to have the springs redone so that the rear of the car sits at the correct level. I can't seem to find any references to the ride height of a TR4, ie how far from the centre of the top of the windscreen to the ground. Can anyone help please? Jim and his black 1962 TR4. From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sun Dec 2 19:42:02 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 21:42:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] sparked out References: Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC62@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Thanks Jeff; I will research that. I have one of those reverse spiral extractors, but I have been unable to remove the plug threaded part with it as I am pushing as hard as I dare and it is not budging. I'm trying some days of Liquid Wrench soaking, but at -10C it is not moving much. Mark ________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net on behalf of JJJKIMBRELL0357 at aol.com Sent: Sun 02/12/2007 7:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] sparked out Mark: I don't know if your problem has been resolved or not but removing the plugs occasionally the plug body would come out & leave the thread part in when I worked at the dealership. Mac tools has an extractor E 5 that is square & tapers towards the end. This worked without any drilling,etc. for me on BMW's with an aluminum head. Jeff Kimbrell 1962 TR4 Marietta, Ga. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 2 21:57:46 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 20:57:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] sparked out In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DC62@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <20071203045746.KYXE24109.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > I'm trying some days of Liquid > Wrench soaking, but at -10C it is not moving much. FWIW, some gentle heat (propane torch, or running engine up to temp) might help. Aluminum contracts more in the cold than steel does, so the head will actually grip the plug. IMO PB Blaster or SiliKroil will work much better than Liquid Wrench, too. Randall From diggle at clear.net.nz Mon Dec 3 01:51:53 2007 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis) Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2007 21:51:53 +1300 Subject: [TR] Ride height for a TR4 Message-ID: <001b01c83589$c08d5a60$6e01a8c0@athlon> More info is required: I run Hankook 185/80's all round which have a 26.65inch diameter. The standard tyres were 165/80's with a 25.39" diameter. The other members thought that my car looked jacked up in the rear. I agreed with them. It looks jacked up a bit. Since I am running the same tyres all round surely the car should look level. I will post a measurement tomorrow from the somewhere on the car. Jim and his 1962 TR4 From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Dec 3 04:58:35 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 06:58:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Jacking Point Message-ID: <000001c835a3$d58c6b30$284d3b47@Scott> After discussions with others about the merits of jacking a TR using the single point in the front and back versus the 4 corner method (which I have used for the past 12 years), I decided to give this a try. I lifted the front first using the center of the cross frame on the chassis and this worked well (I did the front first so as to assure no car drift since I had the emergency brake on and in gear). As with my TR3, I went to the rear with the intent to place the jack pad under the differential and lift from that point. Well, with the '70 TR6, I cannot jack this coming from the rear since there is not enough clearance due to the muffler's position. I can get the jack far enough back to reach the diff, but the lifting arm hits the muffler. For those who have done this, is there another lifting point to use? Do you come in from a different position to get to the diff (such as the front side of the rear wheels)? Do you add 2x4 blocks to the jack pad to raise the contact point so the arm obstruction is resolved? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Dec 3 05:22:48 2007 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2007 06:22:48 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Bell exhaust system Message-ID: <29273650.14112221196684568455.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> Bob, I am running the Bell stainless steel stock exhaust. I bought it on Ebay from Wishbone. I see your question was answered by Bob. FYI, I am very happy with the product and the folks that installed for me said it was the best fitting exhaust they ever installed on a TR6. Good luck, Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 >From: Bob Labuz >Date: 2007/12/02 Sun PM 05:26:31 CST >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" , 6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> >Subject: Re: [TR] Bell exhaust system >On Sunday 02 December 2007 04:18 pm, John Mitchell wrote: >> Does anybody know who sells the Bell brand stock type SS exhaust >> system. TRF and Moss don't list the manufacturer. Thanks >> John Mitchell >> _______________________________________________ >> >John, > >I got mine from Wishbone Classics a few years back. Very good price and >service. > >But there seems to be a problem with them lately. One lister has said that >they took his money for an engine rebuild and dropped off the planet. > >Their website is: http://www.wbclassics.com/ > >I would give them a call to see if they are still in business. > >Bob >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Dec 3 05:57:16 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 07:57:16 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Jacking Point Message-ID: In a message dated 12/3/2007 5:59:13 AM Central Standard Time, suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes: > For those who have done this, is there another lifting point to use? Do you > come in from a different position to get to the diff (such as the front side > of the rear wheels)? Do you add 2x4 blocks to the jack pad to raise the > contact point so the arm obstruction is resolved? > I usually lift at one of the frame rails where the rear trailing arms attach. This is the point where the two main rails are the closest together. This isn't exactly center but near enough. Also, I will lift the front end and set it on jackstands set to their lowest setting. Then I will lift the rear. Then I will raise the front to the desired working height. IOW I do it in stages. I know it is extra work but the technique gives me the opportunity to make sure the car is well settled and stable on the stands before I put my life at risk. Cheers Dave From DLylis at aol.com Mon Dec 3 06:00:44 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 08:00:44 EST Subject: [TR] Ride height for a TR4 Message-ID: I have just replaced all springs on my 3A and the rears did not allow the axle to come off it's resting point on the chassis. There is no body on the car so that weight is not present, however my old springs did allow the axle off the chassis with the body off. I am anticipating that I am going to have the same ride height issue once the body goes on. A couple of 200 pounders on the chassis don't improve it much either. I don't really have a sense as to whether or not 400 pounds on the rear chassis adequately represents a body and gas tank, etc. If this does prove to be a problem I am prepared to extend the rear spring shackles which will lower the chassis relative to the drive train. What is the consensus? Will this screw up any suspension geometry? Will these springs "wear in"? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From pboldtrix at juno.com Mon Dec 3 08:02:29 2007 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 15:02:29 GMT Subject: [TR] TR6 Jacking Point Message-ID: <20071203.100229.19003.0@webmail07.vgs.untd.com> Scott: I come in diagonally to the diff from behind the right rear wheel on my 72 -- "Scott Suhring" wrote: After discussions with others about the merits of jacking a TR using the single point in the front and back versus the 4 corner method (which I have used for the past 12 years), I decided to give this a try. I lifted the front first using the center of the cross frame on the chassis and this worked well (I did the front first so as to assure no car drift since I had the emergency brake on and in gear). As with my TR3, I went to the rear with the intent to place the jack pad under the differential and lift from that point. Well, with the '70 TR6, I cannot jack this coming from the rear since there is not enough clearance due to the muffler's position. I can get the jack far enough back to reach the diff, but the lifting arm hits the muffler. For those who have done this, is there another lifting point to use? Do you come in from a different position to get to the diff (such as the front side of the rear wheels)? Do you add 2x4 blocks to the jack pad to raise the contact point so the arm obstruction is resolved? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive _____________________________________________________________ Click for your daily horoscope, learn about money, love & family. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iieOggTvqpFddGBsAbowkEWIqrDO QHKJTX93sKqZ4gtBsp0ta/ From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Dec 3 12:08:20 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 14:08:20 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Jacking Point Message-ID: In a message dated 12/3/2007 6:59:12 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes: Well, with the '70 TR6, I cannot jack this coming from the rear since there is not enough clearance due to the muffler's position I use the single point method front and back only because I invested in a really cool jack with a very low profile. I bought it from Griot's Garage years ago. It is still available product # 77739 @ _http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=77739_ (http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=77739) Not cheap at $399 but it is the best thing since sliced bread for all these LBC's that sit so low. It even works on me 70 Spit that sits like 5" off the ground or something. You still need to do what Dave does and jack the front up half way then go to the rear. Cheers, Darrell **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From banc8004 at comcast.net Mon Dec 3 12:22:05 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2007 19:22:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] Bell Exhaust System Message-ID: <120320071922.4912.4754575D000880B7000013302200751090CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> I quick search reveals the British Car Parts Co. in Texas sells the Bell system for Triumphs: http://www.britishcarpartsco.com/British%20car%20parts%20for%20sale.htm "We also offer Bell stainless exhaust systems for MGA, MGB, Triumph Stag,TR6,Spitfire and Jaguar XJ6." "We offer Falcon and Bell stainless systems for most MG and Triumph cars. The main difference between Falcon and Bell systems is that Bell uses more stainless and thus costs more." No FI, Brian Valley Forge, PA From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu Mon Dec 3 12:28:36 2007 From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet) Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2007 11:28:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] Rear Springs; Ride Height TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <475458E4.4070404@mrl.ucsb.edu> Jim, My '62 TR4 with the original springs sat pretty high in back too. Reminded me of a postal jeep. I think the problem is that the car was fitted with springs to carry 2x 175 lb. passengers and 75-100 lbs. in the trunk and a full tank of fuel for a road trip, and the springs were built to that spec. I suspect if you added all that weight, it would look just about right. Since I usually ride alone sans baggage, I decided to lower the rear of my TR. I fabricated a pair of lowering blocks from 1"x 2" aluminum stock cut to about 4" in length. In the center of each block I drilled a 5/8" hole and inserted a stubby 5/8" pin about 1" long that stands proud of the block 1/2" or so. The pin goes into a hole on axle and locates the block there, while the space under the pin is occupied by a bolt head in the center of the springs. I got 4 new, slightly longer u-bolts from an outfit on the web that sold trailer and RV parts. When it's all put together, the car looks just right IMO, and it still carries two people without issues. Once or twice with two people and some gear in the trunk I've gone through a dip in an intersection and felt the axle bottom out, but that may have been aggravated by goosing it through the intersection while hitting the dip. Moss makes a very similar kit for the rubber bumper MGBs. If you wanted to ferret around the Moss site, you could probably come up with a picture. Anyway, hope that helps. It's one of the few projects I've done on the car that I didn't have to revisit at least once to get right. -jeffrey From CarlSereda at aol.com Mon Dec 3 13:38:56 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 15:38:56 EST Subject: [TR] Rear springs Message-ID: Jim, Factory specifications were 6" clearance: bottom of frame to ground - front and rear with original tires. I would measure behind front tire and in front of rear tire and shoot for an even 6" clearance and frame parallel to ground. Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ------------------------------------ I have had my rear leaf springs reconditioned which has left me with a solid axle TR4 that looks too high in the back end. Other members of my club have made comments about it being too high. I need to have the springs redone so that the rear of the car sits at the correct level. I can't seem to find any references to the ride height of a TR4, ie how far from the center of the top of the windscreen to the ground. Can anyone help please? Jim and his black 1962 TR4. ************************************** Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon Dec 3 14:26:16 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 16:26:16 EST Subject: [TR] Muffler Anti-Resonator material Message-ID: In a message dated 12/1/2007 11:27:09 AM Mountain Standard Time, banc8004 at comcast.net writes: In my stuggles to get my exhaust right, I was considering a Monza Tip (other brands are available, but these seem reasonable in price): I have one of these on my 73 MG Midget, and no muffler...sounds pretty good! Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Dec 3 14:27:58 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 16:27:58 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Jacking Point Message-ID: In a message dated 12/3/2007 3:59:24 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes: I can get the jack far enough back to reach the diff, but the lifting arm hits the muffler. Hi Scott, Years ago I bought a long and not very tall hydraulic jack from Sears...it has great reach and will easily clear the muffler to connect with the diff. One trick we used in the shop for "low rider" TR6s was to gently lift the rear end while a helper scoots the jack in past the muffler and quickly raises it to start a lift. It's not usually necessary to lift the car when "jacking down" in the rear because the rear wheels usually have enough inward tuck to give you another inch or so clearance. Good luck! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Dec 4 07:33:38 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 14:33:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rear Springs; Ride Height TR4 In-Reply-To: <475458E4.4070404@mrl.ucsb.edu> References: <475458E4.4070404@mrl.ucsb.edu> Message-ID: I need to raise the ride height of my TR3A about an inch. Will TR4 rear springs fir the TR3A? > Since I usually ride alone sans baggage, I decided to lower the rear of > my TR. I fabricated a pair of lowering blocks from 1"x 2" aluminum > stock cut to about 4" in length. In the center of each block I drilled a > 5/8" hole and inserted a stubby 5/8" pin about 1" long that stands proud > of the block 1/2" or so. The pin goes into a hole on axle and locates > the block there, while the space under the pin is occupied by a bolt > head in the center of the springs. I got 4 new, slightly longer u-bolts > from an outfit on the web that sold trailer and RV parts. > Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the im Initiative now. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGLM From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Tue Dec 4 07:45:34 2007 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 15:45:34 +0100 Subject: [TR] crown & pinion wheels Message-ID: <00d401c83684$5472ece0$fd58c6a0$@com> Hi list, I'm looking for crown and pinion wheels for Salisbury axles with ratios of 3.31, 3.08 and 2.97/2.98. If anybody has some lying around in their workshop and is willing to part with them please gimme a shout offline. Thanks Eric From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Dec 4 08:52:15 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 07:52:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] Rear Springs; Ride Height TR4 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071204155214.OOGP13726.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > I need to raise the ride height of my TR3A about an inch. > Will TR4 rear springs fir the TR3A? Should fit, since early TR4 used the same springs as TR2-3A, and I don't believe there was any frame change when the springs changed to the arched type. Haven't tried it myself yet, though. Of course, you'll also need the spacer, and at least in theory, have to cut the spacer to increase ride height. Note that the solid-axle 4A springs are different, and I'm told they will not fit on a TR3. But any decent spring shop should be able to re-arch your existing springs for less money. It used to be a common operation, but is mostly reserved for big trucks these days (so look for a place that does truck suspensions). Randall From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Tue Dec 4 13:05:35 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 12:05:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack Message-ID: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> I have a '74 TR6 and a Moss style luggage rack. I have also picked up a couple of English style picnic baskets. Now I am trying to figure out some leather straps that will secure a picnic basket and also look OK when there is no basket on the rack. This last part is my biggest dilemma. I have seen some with a strap and buckle riveted on which I have not seen when the rack is empty. To use one continuous strap (2 per rack), would require a belt appx. 70 inches long. Has anyone done leather straps on a similar luggage rack? Any ideas would be appreciated. Jim Hearn Two '74 TR6s [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Dec 4 13:13:20 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2007 15:13:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: <8CA04C93F8CCB4B-E68-981@mblk-d33.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: jim hearn ...I am trying to figure out some leather straps that will secure a picnic basket and also look OK when there is no basket on the rack....To use one continuous strap (2 per rack), would require a belt appx. 70 inches long. Has anyone done leather straps on a similar luggage rack? Any ideas would be appreciated. ==AM== I'd be tempted to keep the belt removable rather than permanently attached in any way. As to where/how, I suggest contacting a local tack shop or leather shop and see what they could make up for you. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003 From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Tue Dec 4 13:38:46 2007 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (aldwyn at sylvancircle.org) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 15:38:46 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: <4094.192.193.221.204.1196800726.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org> Jim, I have two very long straps for my rack with buckle. When not in use, I just roll them up and put them in the trunk, so I dont have to worry about how they look when they are not holding anything down. :) - Aldwyn > I have a '74 TR6 and a Moss style luggage rack. I have also picked up a > couple of English style picnic baskets. Now I am trying to figure out > some > leather straps that will secure a picnic basket and also look OK when > there > is no basket on the rack. This last part is my biggest dilemma. I have > seen some with a strap and buckle riveted on which I have not seen when > the > rack is empty. To use one continuous strap (2 per rack), would require a > belt appx. 70 inches long. Has anyone done leather straps on a similar > luggage rack? Any ideas would be appreciated. > > Jim Hearn > Two '74 TR6s > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had > a name of winmail.dat] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From adcronin at ameritech.net Tue Dec 4 15:10:38 2007 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 14:10:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Lower A Arms & Zerks Message-ID: <568415.66238.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> >From looking in the TR2/3A, 4/4A manuals, they show the lower A arms with zerks at the outer and inner connections with the trunnion. The 6 manual does not indicate these fittings. I have several different A arm arrangements in my misc. parts bins---some with zerks per the manual, some with zerks at both inner and outer ends, and some without any at all. The NOS arms I obtained have nothing. I am assembling a 6 front suspension on my 55 TR2 and seem to remember a post showing how to fit a pressure oil can to feed zerks on rebuilt suspensions using neoprene or equal bushings. What are the opinions out there on oiling vs greasing vs nothing in modern suspension rebuilds? Would appreciate all input before I drill and tap new A arms.....thanks. Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Dec 4 15:37:04 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 14:37:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] Lower A Arms & Zerks In-Reply-To: <568415.66238.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <568415.66238.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <03b601c836c6$31beee00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> If memory serves, the TR6 design was different, in that the outer A-arm/trunnion joint had "self-lubricating" nylon sleeves instead of the brass bushings used on the TR2-4. Hence they (at least in theory) did not need periodic lubrication. The joint between the trunnion and vertical link also changed; the TR2-4 version had a zerk for grease in the bottom of the trunnion, while the TR6 version had a zerk for gear oil built into the vertical link. I don't know all the changes (nor do I really want to reopen the religious wars), but it seems reasonable to me to follow the factory recommendation (for oil vs grease) for the components you are using. I have no experience with the TR6 setup, but the TR3 setup seems to last a long time IF you are religious about greasing all those dang zerks. The inner pivots with nylon on steel also seem to last reasonably well with no periodic lubrication, and I would guess the same extends to the nylon-on-steel outer joints on the TR6. That said, I added grease zerks when I converted to Nylatron bushings (which in theory need it even less than the nylon did), "just because". Opinions will vary of course. Mine is that the HF oil can conversion doesn't work very well unless you also re-engineer the oil can. After finding that the lever would bend even without anything connected to the outlet, I went this route instead : http://www.vtr.org/maintain/trunnion-oil.shtml Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Dec 4 17:18:07 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 00:18:07 -0000 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: <02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> If one has a picnic basket for occasional use on one's luggage rack, one does not leave the straps in place when one has no basket. Simply "not done" old boy. Instead, one rolls up the straps and keeps them somewhere convenient, though one could request one's Butler to keep the straps pristine with the application of saddle soap and boot polish. If the Butler declines to do this, he should discuss the matter with one's Groom in the Tack Room Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "jim hearn" To: Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 8:05 PM Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack >I have a '74 TR6 and a Moss style luggage rack. I have also picked up a > couple of English style picnic baskets. Now I am trying to figure out some > leather straps that will secure a picnic basket and also look OK when there > is no basket on the rack. This last part is my biggest dilemma. I have > seen some with a strap and buckle riveted on which I have not seen when the > rack is empty. To use one continuous strap (2 per rack), would require a > belt appx. 70 inches long. Has anyone done leather straps on a similar > luggage rack? Any ideas would be appreciated. > > Jim Hearn > Two '74 TR6s > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Dec 4 19:02:43 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 21:02:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Off list topic request:PA listers only Message-ID: <006b01c836e2$ecd43c60$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> I am looking for a turret mill and have come across a machine that "might" be what I need in terms of capacity and cost ... the guy doesn't have a digital camera but seems pretty genuine (well, from the emails exchanged). Is there a lister who is located anywhere near Marcus Hook in south Philly who would be willing to swing by and eyeball the machine for me? I don't need an engineering review, just a "yup, it is a Sharp turret mill, and it runs just like the guy said ...." In return, I'd be happy to send some bits from a 72 parts car that has the engine and gearbox removed for your time and trouble (please note: the car is a rust bucket ... that's how I got it, but almost everything that isn't a body panel or made from soft fabric is in good shape ... thank goodness for the inbuilt oil spray preservation system). ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From jmitch at snet.net Tue Dec 4 19:19:10 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2007 21:19:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: <47560A9E.60800@snet.net> I bought one of the baskets from Little British Car Co. a few years back and got what they called a spider. It's a bungy cord arrangement with 8 hooks and the all meet in the middle which goes at the center of the basket. Im sure he still has them. John Mitchell 76 TR6 jim hearn wrote: > I have a '74 TR6 and a Moss style luggage rack. I have also picked up a > couple of English style picnic baskets. Now I am trying to figure out some > leather straps that will secure a picnic basket and also look OK when there > is no basket on the rack. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Dec 5 09:30:13 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 11:30:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph Mail List Message-ID: <000001c8375c$23fc37f0$210110ac@bobspc> I haven't received any Triumph List Mail in a while now and only a few 6-Pack messages. I just went to the Mail List site (http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool) to check my subscribed lists and found that I'm now only subscribed to the 6-Pack List. When I checked for all available Lists, the Triumph List doesn't even show up as a valid list!! Anyone getting any mail from the Triumph List? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.14/1171 - Release Date: 12/4/2007 7:31 PM From NPaul72464 at aol.com Wed Dec 5 10:23:46 2007 From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 12:23:46 EST Subject: [TR] Triumph Mail List Message-ID: I did, Bob, and I resubscribed with my same email address and that worked. Ned Paulse'58 TR3a **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Dec 5 10:47:33 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2007 10:47:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Mail List In-Reply-To: <000001c8375c$23fc37f0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c8375c$23fc37f0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <4756E435.4050401@tscusa.org> Bob, I have not had a lapse in messages from the Triumph Digest, but it has slowed a bit for the holidays. Bob Danielson wrote: > I haven't received any Triumph List Mail in a while now and only a few > 6-Pack messages. > Thanks > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Dec 5 11:04:28 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2007 11:04:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> <02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <4756E82C.4050005@tscusa.org> John Macartney wrote: > If one has a picnic basket for occasional use on one's luggage rack, one does not leave the straps > in place when one has no basket. Simply "not done" old boy. Instead, one rolls up the straps and > keeps them somewhere convenient, though one could request one's Butler to keep the straps pristine > with the application of saddle soap and boot polish. > If the Butler declines to do this, he should discuss the matter with one's Groom in the Tack Room > > Jonmac > Beg Pardon Sir. We are talking Triumph motor cars here ... You must be on the wrong list - this list subscribes strictly to the principals established by the Charles Macartney Award rules for Triumph use. =-O Bentley, Rolls and Jag-you-are lists cost money to subscribe, through engraved invitation and special introduction, are only frequented by the man servant of the establishment responsible for the motor carriage. :-$ -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From pethier at comcast.net Wed Dec 5 11:07:23 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2007 18:07:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] Test, no reply needed. Message-ID: <120520071807.19185.4756E8DB0002805B00004AF122007637049D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Test, no reply needed. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Dec 5 12:02:15 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 14:02:15 EST Subject: [TR] Triumph Mail List Message-ID: In a message dated 12/5/2007 10:31:31 AM Central Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: > I haven't received any Triumph List Mail in a while now and only a few > 6-Pack messages. I just went to the Mail List site > (http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool) to check my subscribed lists and > found that I'm now only subscribed to the 6-Pack List. When I checked for > all available Lists, the Triumph List doesn't even show up as a valid list!! > Anyone getting any mail from the Triumph List? > The only way I received this is through the list and I got it so based on this datum point I'd say the list is functional. Dave From diggle at clear.net.nz Wed Dec 5 12:12:29 2007 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis) Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2007 08:12:29 +1300 Subject: [TR] Rear springs, ride height TR4 Message-ID: <002e01c83772$c7a6dca0$6e01a8c0@athlon> Steven Newell has clarified things. He said: I run stock 165R15s. On a TR4 the gap between top of tire and fender lip is normally higher in the back than in the front. Makes them look kind of tipped-down. A TR4A with IRS looks squatter in the back, and if someone's used to that then the TR4 won't look right. His car has a height of 27 1/2 inches to the top of the fender lip (centre of the wheel arch). He runs stock 165 tyres, I run 185/80's which are 1.3 inches larger in diameter. Mine is 27.7 once you compensate for the size of my larger tyres. There will be a TR4 at the next national gathering in March so I will probably hang fire until I see it. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Dec 5 12:41:15 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 12:41:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear springs, ride height TR4 In-Reply-To: <002e01c83772$c7a6dca0$6e01a8c0@athlon> References: <002e01c83772$c7a6dca0$6e01a8c0@athlon> Message-ID: <7B2B89214ED3476C95C34D6A300C8E07@GeoPC> That's not how mine sits, it's 26.5" to 26.75" (depending on how the car settles) at the top of the wheel wells both front and back. Tires are 165/80x15s which I think are slightly taller than 165x15s. I suspect you'll find many variations on the ride height from one car to the next (or even from one side of a car to the opposite side). Geo [Pic attached for Jim's beneift] ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis" To: Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 12:12 PM Subject: [TR] Rear springs, ride height TR4 > Steven Newell has clarified things. > He said: > I run stock 165R15s. On a TR4 the gap between top of tire and fender lip > is > normally higher in the back than in the front. Makes them look kind of > tipped-down. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of ahwahnee4.JPG] From elangtr4 at aol.com Wed Dec 5 13:39:43 2007 From: elangtr4 at aol.com (elangtr4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2007 15:39:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack Message-ID: <8CA05961A17835A-570-2EE9@WEBMAIL-MC17.sysops.aol.com> Jim, I'll agree with Andy Mace. I live near a large Amish population here in Ohio. I visited their local hardware store looking for straps for my TR6 rack. The helpful clerk directed me to the harness maker just up the road who made me a pair while I watched. Took less than 30 minutes, cheap too. BTW mine are removeable. Where the straps attach to the rack are what appear to be snaps or rivets, but they actually screw apart, one side has a slotted head. I'm sure someone here on the list knows the technical term for this fastener. I leave mine on the car all the time just so my car looks a little different. Eric Langreder 71 TR6 ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003 From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Dec 5 14:29:38 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 16:29:38 EST Subject: [TR] Lower A Arms & Zerks Message-ID: A, Late TR suspension A-arms are different than early A-arms. The TR4/4A Factory Workshop manual gives 2 different diagrams/measurement instructions for straightening TR4 arms versus straightening TR4A arms. Therefore I would not install TR6 arms on a TR2. 'Greasing' spec changed to 'oiling' between TR4 and TR4A trunnion design. There was a big change in trunnion design for TR4As and beyond. (weaker design it turns out) But the weak point with the earlier design (which I found on mine) is the trunnion 'cross shaft' wears through the soft brass bushings and into the iron arms themselves. Neil Revington prefers to install pairs of sintered (porous) bronze bushes at these outer ends (harder wearing and they don't require reaming as the brass ones do). The gap between the bush pairs allows grease entry. Neil still uses grease as originally spec'd up to TR4. You might want to find a restorable set of TR2(TR3?) A-arms and straighten them and/or get ends sleaved if needed, before rebushing them.. I had to buy all four TR4 A-arms for $100.00 at TROnly and beat them with fire and hammer back to factory specs (bushes were'nt worn through, so I could remove them and pop in new bronze bushes without a machine-shop visit for expensive sleaving) Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ------------------------------------------------------------------ What are the opinions out there on oiling vs greasing vs nothing in modern suspension rebuilds?


**************************************
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(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From dorpaul at negia.net Wed Dec 5 14:30:51 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 16:30:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] What time is your distributor? Message-ID: <00e501c83786$1d67daf0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am still several weeks away from starting my TR3's engine (it came from a TR4). I know there is a typical and simple way to figure out when TDC (top dead center) occurs. I also know how this is done. However, just based on replies to this post, I wish to see where on the distributor and cap, and orientation of cap does firing of cylinder No. #1 supposedly occur. The reason is that I've been told that my cap's orientation is 45 degrees 'turned' from most folks. So, please bear with me....... Please don't answer these questions if your car is not properly timed... (1) Do you have 2138cc's as opposed to the earlier 1991cc's? (2) Do you know if it is a DM2 distributor? If one stands on the left side of the car, with the bonnet open, and stands directly over the distributor, (3) where is the the cap's no.# 1 wire? (What position on a clock dial?) (4) What direction does the vacuum advance point? (5) What position is the little wire enter the dist. that comes from the coil and goes to the points at? (6) With the cap still on, and hoping that it is a British Style cap (2 lower, 2 upper wire cap), which direction does the cap point (because of cap's top coil wire)? I will summarize these answers in a soon-to-be post. Watch for it.... Thanks, Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3 ( with a TR4 engine) CTsomething or another From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 5 14:54:39 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 21:54:39 -0000 Subject: [TR] Genealogy Message-ID: <032801c83789$6f733e90$0201a8c0@Bevan> List, Are any members (or friends and family) heavily into family tree tracing when not working on their cars? This message has a very definite Standard-Triumph relevance and concerns the interest of the younger son of Sir John Black (Standard Motor Co CEO and Triumph rescuer) with whom I am in regular correspondence. Nick Black is anxious to trace a sister by his father's first marriage who it is known emigrated to the States before WW2. I have a few details - but if anyone is able to assist Nick, please contact me off list. Thanks Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation... and - okay, all other makes of LBC Iron too! From daveg at online.no Wed Dec 5 14:59:14 2007 From: daveg at online.no (David Griffiths) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 22:59:14 +0100 Subject: [TR] What time is your distributor? In-Reply-To: <00e501c83786$1d67daf0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00e501c83786$1d67daf0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Hi This is not a direct answer to your direct question but I hope it may contribute to you getting the correct timing. It's a reply from June 2004 to a question asking about hte correct dwell for a tr3 engine. Sincerely, Dave From: "Tim Tucker" Subject: RE: What is the right Dwell? Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 22:30:48 -0400 The Texaco Service guide I have on the wall of my garage says 57-63..you've nailed it at 60..:) *** http://www.team.net/the-local *** >I am still several weeks away from starting my TR3's engine (it came from a >TR4). I know there is a typical and simple way to figure out when TDC (top >dead center) occurs. I also know how this is done. However, just based on ----------- From peter at nosimport.com Wed Dec 5 15:00:11 2007 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2007 16:00:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] What time is your distributor? In-Reply-To: <00e501c83786$1d67daf0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00e501c83786$1d67daf0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20071205155432.0378de40@nosimport.com> Paul, On a TR3/4 cap, the low tension lead cutout is directly opposite from the coil wire lead. If you use a Sprite or Midget distributor cap, the low tension cutout is 90 degrees counterclockwise. Otherwise, the 2 caps interchange, but can cause some confusion. Peter C. ===== At 03:30 PM 12/5/2007, Paul Dorsey wrote: >I am still several weeks away from starting my TR3's engine (it came from a >TR4). I know there is a typical and simple way to figure out when TDC (top >dead center) occurs. I also know how this is done. However, just based on >replies to this post, I wish to see where on the distributor and cap, and >orientation of cap does firing of cylinder No. #1 supposedly occur. The >reason is that I've been told that my cap's orientation is 45 degrees 'turned' >from most folks. So, please bear with me....... > Please don't answer these questions if your car is not > properly timed... > >(1) Do you have 2138cc's as opposed to the earlier 1991cc's? >(2) Do you know if it is a DM2 distributor? > >If one stands on the left side of the car, with the bonnet open, and stands >directly over the distributor, >(3) where is the the cap's no.# 1 wire? (What position on a clock dial?) >(4) What direction does the vacuum advance point? >(5) What position is the little wire enter the dist. that comes from the >coil and goes to the points at? >(6) With the cap still on, and hoping that it is a British Style cap (2 >lower, 2 upper wire cap), which direction does the cap point (because of cap's >top coil wire)? > >I will summarize these answers in a soon-to-be post. Watch for it.... >Thanks, >Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3 ( with a TR4 engine) CTsomething or another From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 5 14:45:10 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 21:45:10 -0000 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> <02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> <4756E82C.4050005@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <02e501c83788$1c53e800$0201a8c0@Bevan> Glenn Merrell wrote: > Beg Pardon Sir. We are talking Triumph motor cars here ... You must be on the wrong list - this > list subscribes strictly to the principals established by the Charles Macartney Award rules for > Triumph use. =-O > Bentley, Rolls and Jag-you-are lists cost money to subscribe, through engraved invitation and > special introduction, are only frequented by the man servant of the establishment responsible for > the motor carriage. :-$ Oh, Mr. Merrell, one does despair! You clearly don't understand 'Britishness.' You see, regardless of an individual's financial position (in this case what car he or she may drive) traditions and standards must always be observed and preserved. Example: If one doesn't live in the lap of luxury - but still owns the family silver, one doesn't prat about. One *uses* the family silver, misty-eyed and inclines to talk of better days, now past - whenever possible. If one has blue blood (I don't) one has to continue as did one's forebears. Him of award-fame mentioned above, adhered strictly to that rule - and many others, while still driving a Standard Vanguard! He too, took on the role of Butler himself (as do I) and rolled his own straps after every use. I still have them, use them and once finished with, they are saddle-soaped, waxed and then put away till the next time. They're over seventy years old and as good as ever :) The key, Mr. Merrell, is always understatement... Sincerely, Sir JM > John Macartney wrote: >> If one has a picnic basket for occasional use on one's luggage rack, one does not leave the >> straps in place when one has no basket. Simply "not done" old boy. Instead, one rolls up the >> straps and keeps them somewhere convenient, though one could request one's Butler to keep the >> straps pristine with the application of saddle soap and boot polish. >> If the Butler declines to do this, he should discuss the matter with one's Groom in the Tack Room >> >> Jonmac From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Dec 5 15:51:29 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 14:51:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] What time is your distributor? In-Reply-To: <00e501c83786$1d67daf0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00e501c83786$1d67daf0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <04a501c83791$6022ad10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Please don't answer these questions if your car is not > properly timed... Paul, I can't answer your questions directly, but I do want to point out some problems with them. The first is that you have not specified what you mean in the above statement. "properly timed" would normally mean only that the spark happens in the correct cylinder at the correct time ... which might mean anything as far as which wire appears in which location. IOW, the orientation of both wires and distributor body is influenced by how the distributor drive gear is engaged with the camshaft. No matter how that is done, "correct timing" can be obtained by adjusting which wires are connected where and/or the position of the distributor body. My Dad's TR3A has the wires exactly opposite of where mine are, yet it is "properly timed". > (1) Do you have 2138cc's as opposed to the earlier 1991cc's? Do you mean originally, or whether the 86mm liners have been retrofitted to an earlier engine ? In my case, neither displacement is correct, since I have the 87mm liners (fitted to a cylinder block that was originally 1991cc). However, it doesn't really matter, since changing the liner size does not affect how the ignition is timed (or how the distributor/wires are oriented). > (2) Do you know if it is a DM2 distributor? Again, has no bearing on wires/orientation. The later 25D4 is fully interchangeable, without altering the relationship of wires/dizzy. My engine has been retrofitted with the 25D4. > If one stands on the left side of the car, with the bonnet > open, and stands > directly over the distributor, > (3) where is the the cap's no.# 1 wire? (What position on a > clock dial?) Assuming you mean with the engine at 12:00, my #1 wire is at 9:00. > (4) What direction does the vacuum advance point? 9:00 > (5) What position is the little wire enter the dist. that > comes from the > coil and goes to the points at? About 12:00 > (6) With the cap still on, and hoping that it is a British > Style cap (2 > lower, 2 upper wire cap), which direction does the cap point > (because of cap's > top coil wire)? 6:00 IOW, my installation looks almost exactly like the illustration in Practical Hints (within a few degrees anyway). As Peter notes, there are different caps that will fit both the DM2 and the 25D4. In addition to the one with the terminal turned 90 degrees from the Triumph cap; there is also a cap with the terminals pointing straight up; and I believe yet another one with the terminals all on the side of the cap in a row (rather than half on the side and half on top like the TR cap). All were originally made by Lucas, and just used in different applications. Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Wed Dec 5 16:10:28 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 17:10:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer><02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> <4756E82C.4050005@tscusa.org> <02e501c83788$1c53e800$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <002301c83794$075a1210$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > after every use. I still have them, use them and once finished with, they > are saddle-soaped, waxed > and then put away till the next time. They're over seventy years old and > as good as ever :) > So, the secret to a long life is to get saddle soaped, waxed and rolled regularly. I'll have to tell the missus... Mike From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 5 16:52:16 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 23:52:16 -0000 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer><02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> <4756E82C.4050005@tscusa.org> <02e501c83788$1c53e800$0201a8c0@Bevan> <002301c83794$075a1210$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <034d01c83799$ddcbe3f0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Absolutely! But try to remember that it's not a good idea to do any of that on damp grass. You'll pay for it in later years :) JM ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Marr" To: "John Macartney" ; Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 11:10 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack > >> after every use. I still have them, use them and once finished with, they are saddle-soaped, >> waxed >> and then put away till the next time. They're over seventy years old and as good as ever :) >> > So, the secret to a long life is to get saddle soaped, waxed and rolled regularly. I'll have to > tell the missus... > > Mike From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Dec 5 16:58:43 2007 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2007 18:58:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <034d01c83799$ddcbe3f0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer><02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> <4756E82C.4050005@tscusa.org> <02e501c83788$1c53e800$0201a8c0@Bevan> <002301c83794$075a1210$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> <034d01c83799$ddcbe3f0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <21C148D3DAE24341843A735BF3B923F7@CarlPC> I have heard (but no confirmation on my part) that damp grass is not good at all.... C ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: "Michael Marr" ; Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 6:52 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack > Absolutely! But try to remember that it's not a good idea to do any of > that on damp grass. You'll > pay for it in later years :) > > JM From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Dec 5 17:19:05 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 17:19:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] What time is your distributor? In-Reply-To: <00e501c83786$1d67daf0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00e501c83786$1d67daf0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Paul - I don't think you can go far wrong using the old rule of thumb that when #1 is at TDC the rotor should be pointing at #1 spark plug. As you will see in the photos below, my engines differ slightly in this regard (possibly by a tooth or 2 on the camchaft gear?) but are both close to this orientation. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3-Dizzy.JPG http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR4-Dizzy.JPG Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 2:30 PM Subject: [TR] What time is your distributor? >... However, just based on > replies to this post, I wish to see where on the distributor and cap, and > orientation of cap does firing of cylinder No. #1 supposedly occur. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Dec 5 18:39:41 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2007 18:39:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <02e501c83788$1c53e800$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> <02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> <4756E82C.4050005@tscusa.org> <02e501c83788$1c53e800$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <475752DD.5040208@tscusa.org> John Macartney wrote: > > Oh, Mr. Merrell, one does despair! You clearly don't understand 'Britishness.' > > The key, Mr. Merrell, is always understatement... > > Sincerely, Sir > > JM > Yaya, that's because I'm a Viking, from the blood of your ancestors. Not one ounce of refinement here, and understated !?! :-P -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Dec 5 18:40:41 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2007 20:40:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <002301c83794$075a1210$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <47570CC9.22865.157C7C0@localhost> On 5 Dec 2007 at 17:10, Michael Marr wrote: > > after every use. I still have them, use them and once finished with, they > > are saddle-soaped, waxed > > and then put away till the next time. They're over seventy years old and > > as good as ever :) > > > So, the secret to a long life is to get saddle soaped, waxed and rolled > regularly. I'll have to tell the missus... Yes, but do you really want to be put away until the next time? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mmarr at notwires.com Wed Dec 5 19:26:10 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 20:26:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack References: <47570CC9.22865.157C7C0@localhost> Message-ID: <001001c837af$5df3c380$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> >> > after every use. I still have them, use them and once finished with, >> > they >> > are saddle-soaped, waxed >> > and then put away till the next time. They're over seventy years old >> > and >> > as good as ever :) >> > >> So, the secret to a long life is to get saddle soaped, waxed and rolled >> regularly. I'll have to tell the missus... > > Yes, but do you really want to be put away until the next time? > Keeps me out of the bars! Mike From dorpaul at negia.net Wed Dec 5 19:30:12 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 21:30:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 &4 fuel tank size Message-ID: <010201c837af$ef4db1b0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Would a TR4 fuel tank fit in a TR3A? The normal size fuel tank for a TR3 held 12.5 gal. (according to the manuel). As there was proably only one size for a TR3, I am thinking that a larger tank might fit my TR3 since I am willing to sacrifice back seat space for it. Does anyone think it's too big? Thanks, Paul Dorsey '60 TR3 From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Dec 5 21:10:09 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2007 23:10:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 &4 fuel tank size References: <010201c837af$ef4db1b0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <00e201c837bd$e49c6320$b6247247@fred8kwiskhcfu> > Would a TR4 fuel tank fit in a TR3A? The normal size fuel tank for a TR3 > held > 12.5 gal. (according to the manuel). As there was proably only one size > for a > TR3, I am thinking that a larger tank might fit my TR3 since I am willing > to > sacrifice back seat space for it. Does anyone think it's too big? > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey '60 TR3 ========================================================================================================== The original factory tank still in my 59 Tr3A is 14.4 is and sure wish it were a gallons more for major trips dustance between stops on long trips "FFT From mathews at uga.edu Wed Dec 5 21:20:24 2007 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2007 23:20:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 &4 fuel tank size In-Reply-To: <00e201c837bd$e49c6320$b6247247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <010201c837af$ef4db1b0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <00e201c837bd$e49c6320$b6247247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <20071206042113.914AF1879E4@autox.team.net> Fred, When I had my first 63TR3 in 64, I got 100 miles/quarter tank on the interstate at 70mph. Overdrive of course! Doug At 11:10 PM 12/5/2007, you wrote: >The original factory tank still in my 59 Tr3A is 14.4 is and sure wish it >were a gallons more for major trips dustance between stops on long trips >"FFT >_______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Dec 5 21:21:16 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 20:21:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 &4 fuel tank size In-Reply-To: <010201c837af$ef4db1b0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071206042116.JCPM16492.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Would a TR4 fuel tank fit in a TR3A? No idea, but seems unlikely to me. The TR4 body is wider than the TR3, so I suspect the TR4 tank would not fit between the TR3 wheel wells. > The normal size fuel > tank for a TR3 held > 12.5 gal. (according to the manuel). Don't forget those are Imperial gallons. TR4 only held 13.75, so not much increase for what I suspect is a whole lot of work. > As there was proably > only one size for a TR3, Actually, I believe it changed slightly twice, as the tank was reconfigured to fit the body. Unfortunately, it went down slightly each time. My 3A was 12.0 Imperial and ISTR post-60K tanks were only 11.75 Imperial. > I am thinking that a larger tank > might fit my TR3 since I am willing to sacrifice back seat > space for it. Does anyone think it's too big? Well, I have to say that even when I was younger, it was always welcome to stop to fill the tank on long trips. Now I usually won't even drive out a full tank before taking a break, so a bigger tank would really not be a help to me. You should be able to go at least 300 miles on a tank (highway driving), which is plenty for me. I love my TR, but the wind, vibration and noise do take a toll on long trips. Randall From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Dec 5 22:33:47 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2007 00:33:47 EST Subject: [TR] ride height TR4 Message-ID: I stand corrected - looking through the hundreds of side-photos of TR4s I've collected since 1998 the TR4 stance does have a slight nose down orientation (not level) - maybe an inch, probably less, difference in height between the front and rear of car. Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 .. in pieces for 8 years now! ************************************** Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From DLylis at aol.com Thu Dec 6 05:29:38 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2007 07:29:38 EST Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack Message-ID: In a message dated 12/5/2007 8:48:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: Yes, but do you really want to be put away until the next time? I was unaware that there is an alternative. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Dec 6 07:17:32 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2007 08:17:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack References: Message-ID: <002f01c83812$be4d4180$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > Yes, but do you really want to be put away until the next time? > > > > I was unaware that there is an alternative. > > David Lylis So, you have apparently met my ex-wife... Mike From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Dec 6 08:45:37 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2007 10:45:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 &4 fuel tank size References: <20071206042116.JCPM16492.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <003101c8381f$0bda59e0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Listers: Actually the gas (petrol) tanks of the series grew smaller as the years and models passed. The TR2's was 15 U.S. gallons (57 litres) The TR3's 14.4 (54.7 litres) TR4 14.1 (54 litres) TR250 and TR6 13.5 (51 litres) The above TR3 data may be for the later, post TS60,000 cars. I recall the capacity of TS21130L as being 14.7 gallons. Did 450 miles on a tank of gas, top and side curtains in place, one cold winter day a long time ago. Source: Triumph Sports Owners Association Handbook, 2nd addition. Ed Woods From pboldtrix at juno.com Thu Dec 6 15:26:31 2007 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2007 22:26:31 GMT Subject: [TR] TR3 &4 fuel tank size Message-ID: <20071206.172631.1289.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com> Apparently Fred's bladder has a larger capacity than the gas tank in his TR-3! -- "FRED E THOMAS" wrote: > Would a TR4 fuel tank fit in a TR3A? The normal size fuel tank for a TR3 > held > 12.5 gal. (according to the manuel). As there was proably only one size > for a > TR3, I am thinking that a larger tank might fit my TR3 since I am willing > to > sacrifice back seat space for it. Does anyone think it's too big? > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey '60 TR3 ============================================================================= ============================= The original factory tank still in my 59 Tr3A is 14.4 is and sure wish it were a gallons more for major trips dustance between stops on long trips "FFT This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive _____________________________________________________________ Click here to pick up the school supplies you need! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iigBvjfVR457GSKwKzfS284VwIN1 gCjJo9tAepA3TDCAVLEpM/ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Dec 6 16:27:32 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2007 18:27:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph Mail List In-Reply-To: <000001c8375c$23fc37f0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c8375c$23fc37f0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <200712061827.32995.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 05 December 2007 11:30 am, Bob Danielson wrote: > I haven't received any Triumph List Mail in a while now and only a few > 6-Pack messages. I just went to the Mail List site > (http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool) to check my subscribed lists and > found that I'm now only subscribed to the 6-Pack List. When I checked for > all available Lists, the Triumph List doesn't even show up as a valid > list!! Anyone getting any mail from the Triumph List? > > Thanks > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > Bob, As you can see same as always. I havent had any problems sending or receiveing. BOb From dwillner at ptd.net Thu Dec 6 17:49:23 2007 From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2007 19:49:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 tool kit roll Message-ID: <004501c8386b$033e2680$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Is anyone familiar with a vendor that offers a "close to original" tool roll for a TR3? Looking for the jute type as opposed to the plastic. Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Dec 7 03:03:05 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 10:03:05 -0000 Subject: [TR] Delivery of Posts Message-ID: <049401c838b8$5c7e0600$0201a8c0@Bevan> Looks like I'm getting a much smaller delivery of daily posts as well than previously. Down to just 3 this morning from the more usual 20 - 30 overnight and 10 or more during the day. Or could it possibly be that everyone's car is running so well there's no need to raise queries? Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Dec 7 05:42:15 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 07:42:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts Message-ID: <000501c838ce$9aa32260$210110ac@bobspc> I took a top down drive in 27 degree temperatures to test my new sway bar end links and brackets. Other then some strange looks, the car ran and handled just fine. With some help and advice from fellow Listers Bob Lang and Art Lipp I was able to resolve my sway bar issues by buying Energy Suspension End Links and fabricating some custom brackets. I just updated my site (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SwayBar.htm) with lots of pictures but have one last question. I can have the links pretty straight up and down OR angled outward just by flipping my bracket over. The last picture here (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ELMounted.htm) will show the difference. Any opinions on which way provides better handling? Bob........hitting 60 on Sunday! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007 11:15 PM From triosan at gmail.com Fri Dec 7 08:10:35 2007 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 07:10:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Sway Bar Custom Mounts In-Reply-To: <000501c838ce$9aa32260$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000501c838ce$9aa32260$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0712070710w1ae91f4ag96c42b7005619ab5@mail.gmail.com> Bob, Great piece of work -- really like how you: 1. Researched and solved the problem' 2. Shared the theory 3. Shared the results. Seems to me that the more straight up and down the link is, the less lateral stress there is in the components and the better able the links will be to do their job. Also, what web building tool are you using? Makes for great results and obviously is not hard to use. Thanks, Chuck On Dec 7, 2007 4:42 AM, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > I took a top down drive in 27 degree temperatures to test my new sway bar > end links and brackets. Other then some strange looks, the car ran and > handled just fine. > > With some help and advice from fellow Listers Bob Lang and Art Lipp I was > able to resolve my sway bar issues by buying Energy Suspension End Links and > fabricating some custom brackets. I just updated my site > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SwayBar.htm) with lots of pictures but have > one last question. I can have the links pretty straight up and down OR > angled outward just by flipping my bracket over. The last picture here > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ELMounted.htm) will show the difference. Any > opinions on which way provides better handling? > > Bob........hitting 60 on Sunday! > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007 > 11:15 PM > > Your messages not reaching the list? > Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html > > === Help keep Team.Net on the air > === http://www.team.net/donate.html > > === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net or try > === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool > === Other lists available at > === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo > === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > === http://www.team.net/the-local > === Edit your replies! > -- Chuck Arnold From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Dec 7 08:24:40 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 15:24:40 -0000 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts References: <000501c838ce$9aa32260$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <002901c838e5$49eb9020$0201a8c0@Bevan> Bob Danielson wrote: > With some help and advice from fellow Listers Bob Lang and Art Lipp I was > able to resolve my sway bar issues by buying Energy Suspension End Links and > fabricating some custom brackets. I just updated my site > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SwayBar.htm) with lots of pictures but have > one last question. I can have the links pretty straight up and down OR > angled outward just by flipping my bracket over. The last picture here > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ELMounted.htm) will show the difference. Any > opinions on which way provides better handling? That's a neat solution Bob. As to your question, I think if you can maintain as near vertical movement, that should be OK. My only concern (and this isn't a criticism) is that the end links do seem to be hanging rather low. I'd be concerned about the possibilities of them hitting something on a bad road - but maybe you don't have those where you live? Jonmac From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Fri Dec 7 10:39:33 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 12:39:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Delivery of Posts In-Reply-To: <049401c838b8$5c7e0600$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07B861FB@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Hi John: My car is shivering in the garage surrounded by snow and can't type with its hands in its pockets. Mark 1972 TR6 Montreal, Canada -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: December 7, 2007 5:03 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Delivery of Posts Looks like I'm getting a much smaller delivery of daily posts as well than previously. Down to just 3 this morning from the more usual 20 - 30 overnight and 10 or more during the day. Or could it possibly be that everyone's car is running so well there's no need to raise queries? Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Dec 7 10:47:42 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 12:47:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Sway Bar Custom Mounts In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0712070710w1ae91f4ag96c42b7005619ab5@mail.gmail.com> References: <000501c838ce$9aa32260$210110ac@bobspc> <8cbd782d0712070710w1ae91f4ag96c42b7005619ab5@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <001001c838f9$46e93580$210110ac@bobspc> Thanks Chuck..... I use MS Front Page for the web stuff, Swish for the Flash movie and Paint Shop Pro for photo editing. Straight up and down is what I'm hearing for the best link position. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Chuck Arnold [mailto:triosan at gmail.com] Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 10:11 AM To: Bob Danielson Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6 Pack list Subject: Re: [6pack] Sway Bar Custom Mounts Bob, Great piece of work -- really like how you: 1. Researched and solved the problem' 2. Shared the theory 3. Shared the results. Seems to me that the more straight up and down the link is, the less lateral stress there is in the components and the better able the links will be to do their job. Also, what web building tool are you using? Makes for great results and obviously is not hard to use. Thanks, Chuck No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007 11:15 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Dec 7 10:50:00 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 12:50:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts In-Reply-To: <002901c838e5$49eb9020$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <000501c838ce$9aa32260$210110ac@bobspc> <002901c838e5$49eb9020$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <001101c838f9$99280c90$210110ac@bobspc> The link bottoms are no lower then the sway bar bottom (4") at the front of the car so I should be OK though I do have to be careful. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: John Macartney [mailto:standardtriumph at btinternet.com] Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 10:25 AM To: Bob Danielson; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6 Pack list' Subject: Re: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts Bob Danielson wrote: > With some help and advice from fellow Listers Bob Lang and Art Lipp I > was able to resolve my sway bar issues by buying Energy Suspension End > Links and fabricating some custom brackets. I just updated my site > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SwayBar.htm) with lots of pictures but > have one last question. I can have the links pretty straight up and > down OR angled outward just by flipping my bracket over. The last > picture here > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ELMounted.htm) will show the > difference. Any opinions on which way provides better handling? That's a neat solution Bob. As to your question, I think if you can maintain as near vertical movement, that should be OK. My only concern (and this isn't a criticism) is that the end links do seem to be hanging rather low. I'd be concerned about the possibilities of them hitting something on a bad road - but maybe you don't have those where you live? Jonmac No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007 11:15 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007 11:15 PM From kthompson at whoi.edu Fri Dec 7 13:13:24 2007 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 15:13:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts Message-ID: <4759A964.1070008@whoi.edu> Bob signed off as: Bob........hitting 60 on Sunday! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org Apparently, yours has the overdrive...!!! :-) Cheers, KT From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Fri Dec 7 13:41:36 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 15:41:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts References: <4759A964.1070008@whoi.edu> Message-ID: <000601c83911$8fa1c4f0$dd1c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Thompson" To: Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 3:13 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts > Bob signed off as: > Bob........hitting 60 on Sunday! > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > Apparently, yours has the overdrive...!!! > :-) > Cheers, > KT ====================================================================================================== Coming up on # 75, "Golden-Age" is certainly not for the weak, much better than the other choice "I THINK" "FT" From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Dec 7 13:59:47 2007 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 12:59:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts In-Reply-To: <000601c83911$8fa1c4f0$dd1c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <4759A964.1070008@whoi.edu> <000601c83911$8fa1c4f0$dd1c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: > > Bob signed off as: >> Bob........hitting 60 on Sunday! > > > > Bob Danielson > > >> Apparently, yours has the overdrive...!!! >> :-) >> Cheers, >> KT >====================================================================================================== >Coming up on # 75, "Golden-Age" is certainly not for the weak, much better >than the other choice "I THINK" "FT" >_____________________________________ Turned 74, last June ... My Mom had a sampler (which I now have) says " Old Age Ain'f For Sissies" Congrats btw Fred on your showing at the VTR convention ... wish we could have been there, but then all the good stuff goes to Red Cars ... -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Dec 7 14:44:59 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 16:44:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Sway Bar Custom Mounts In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0712070710w1ae91f4ag96c42b7005619ab5@mail.gmail.com> References: <000501c838ce$9aa32260$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <4759788B.30602.9B0117@localhost> On 7 Dec 2007 at 7:10, Chuck Arnold wrote: > Seems to me that the more straight up and down the link is, the less > lateral stress there is in the components > On Dec 7, 2007 4:42 AM, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > > Any opinions on which way provides better handling? A few observations, besides the kudos already given. One more kudo from me won't add much. Check the angles through the range of suspension travel, not just at ride height. The thing is, the supposed need for the A-arm and sway bar to be parallel is a simplification. The A-arm has a longitudinal swing axis but the sway bar's swing axis is transverse (plus minimal flexing of the bar itself). As the suspension moves up and down the mounting point on the A-arm (the top of the link) moves in an arc as viewed from the front, but the outer end of the swar bar (the bottom of the link) moves vertically. At ride height the A-arm isn't quite at its furthest out-most point, but at the suspension extremes it will have moved inward. So the angle of the link as viewed from the front won't stay at the pretty "vertical" in your picture. It will sit like that most of the time but the sway bar isn't torqued unless there is differential suspension travel between the wheels. Minor suspension movement upward will move the link's upper end outward a little. Major movement upward and any movement downward will move the upper end inward. I'm guessing you still want the "flipped-over" vertical arrangement, but it is worth checking. From a geometry standpoint a big improvement is simply having a longer link, which means less angle change as the suspension goes up and down, and less flexing of the bushings too. Also the transfer of movement from wheel to sway bar depends on the geometry. The top of the link will move more if it is further out on the A-arm. This means the bar will be torqued more, thus equivalent to a stiffer bar. The geometry between upper and lower link ends will change during the suspension travel and for the two different mounting arrangements it will change differently. But it's hard to say whether one is better or if the difference is even signficant. A final observation is that all the vertical force on your link will be born as flex on a planar surface. There is no vertical backing edge to convert that flex to shear. Perhaps your bracket is robust enough that it doesn't matter, but you should check it over time for fatigue. Heaven forbid that in another 3000 miles you have to do all this again. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Dec 7 14:49:18 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 16:49:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts In-Reply-To: References: <000601c83911$8fa1c4f0$dd1c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <4759798E.2070.9EF56B@localhost> On 7 Dec 2007 at 12:59, Bill & AnnaBelle wrote: > >> Bob........hitting 60 on Sunday! > >> Apparently, yours has the overdrive...!!! > >> :-) > >> Cheers,... KT > >====================================================================================================== > >Coming up on # 75, "Golden-Age" is certainly not for the weak, much better > >than the other choice "I THINK" "FT" > >_____________________________________ > > Turned 74, last June And here I thought Bob was talking about the temperature. Hey, it's COLD outside. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From DLylis at aol.com Fri Dec 7 14:49:49 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 16:49:49 EST Subject: [TR] My speedo won't fit Message-ID: I have installed a J type on an early tranny and the right angle drive that I got for the J type from TRF does not fit. It is a screw type and the one I have appears to be a press fit held on tot he case by a machine screw. Anyone know what I should be looking for? I have attempted a picture. Hope it works [IMG]http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc88/TRG69/1960%20TR3A%20restoration/P C070927.jpg[/IMG] David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Dec 7 15:11:37 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 14:11:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] My speedo won't fit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000501c8391e$22b098a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I have installed a J type on an early tranny and the right > angle drive that > I got for the J type from TRF does not fit. It is a screw > type and the one I > have appears to be a press fit held on tot he case by a > machine screw. > Anyone know what I should be looking for? I believe the adapter is TRF P/N NKC43; Moss 866-970. That should include the clamp, but not the bolt. Looks like you are also missing the seal around the shaft, TRF NKC105A; Moss 461-445. But the drive gear looks to be usable. Drive ratio will almost certainly be wrong unless you've changed the gears though, as the J-type TR6 used a different speedo calibration than the earlier TRs (like your TR4) did. I think to get the TR4 ratio, you'll need a 6-start gear inside the OD, plus a 15 tooth pinion. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Fri Dec 7 15:52:54 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 17:52:54 EST Subject: [TR] My speedo won't fit Message-ID: Thanks. I will get with TRF in the morning. I am aware that the speedo will not read correctly but I will just work out the error and do some calculations. The 40 - 60 MPH range is the most likely to get me a citation. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Dec 7 16:16:36 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 16:16:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Run "Selection, prep, delivery and Support of the Triumph Stag" Message-ID: <4759D454.6080702@tscusa.org> Selection, prep, delivery and Support of the Triumph Stag | December 7, 2007 *Greetings Triumph Enthusiasts and Friends,* Glenn Merrell, Chairman of the Triumph Stag Club USA here. /*So what is this all about, where are we going, how are we planning to get there, and where will it all come to a climax? All questions answered in time. ... point is, I need some help ... (like you did not know that already!). */ If you have been reading and listening to the various Triumph grape vines, I have volunteered to coordinate the selection, preparation, delivery, en route maintenance and support of the Triumph Stag that will make this epic 10,000 mile journey across North America for Charity. Why? ... Please take a minute to visit the Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009 Web site and read how you and your local club can help make this epic drive possible. Click below now!! http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ I look forward to hearing from you very soon! Cheers! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) TSN Admin The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From wbeech at flash.net Fri Dec 7 16:45:11 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 16:45:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR-3A Stoneguard question Message-ID: <20071207234548.56EB2187A69@autox.team.net> I notice a $30 difference between the stoneguard sets from Victoria British ($80.00) & TRF($120). I have called both to ask to ask, VB did not know at all and TRF thinks it is aluminum or stainless steel. I think that the original ones, my are long gone, were stainless. Has anyone seen the product from these folks? Is there $30 diff in the value between them? Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007 11:15 PM From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Dec 7 17:13:13 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2007 00:13:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] cap and rotor advice Message-ID: <120820070013.12395.4759E1990005827D0000306B22165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> The list has seen innumerable mentions of unreliable rotors. But one thing I don't remember seeing is advice on where the best rotors are from? ISTR that the small brown rotors have given me no trouble, while I also STR that the small black ones failed once or twice. Is there a source for guaranteed quality out there? Not to drag a debate around our otherwise superb array of parts suppliers into the list, feel free to e-mail me offline. Thank you, everyone. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667 is sleeping with frozen tootsies and will take a major resconstruct of the alternator conversion before going back on the road this spring). New Hampshire From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Dec 7 18:10:28 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 20:10:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR-3A Stoneguard question In-Reply-To: <20071207234548.56EB2187A69@autox.team.net> References: <20071207234548.56EB2187A69@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <200712072010.29315.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 07 December 2007 06:45 pm, wbeech wrote: > I notice a $30 difference between the stoneguard sets from Victoria British > ($80.00) & TRF($120). I have called both to ask to ask, VB did not know at > all and TRF thinks it is aluminum or stainless steel. > > I think that the original ones, my are long gone, were stainless. Has > anyone seen the product from these folks? Is there $30 diff in the value > between them? > > Thx, > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" Bill, The original stone guards are aluminum. It has been mentioned on this list that the repro sets dont fit right at all. I even remember TRF saying the same but TRF may have sourced a better part along the way, maybe that is why the difference in cost. If it was me I would go with TRF. I have always found that most of their repro parts (at least the ones sourced in the UK or US) are of the best quality. Once in awhile you see them on ebay. Bob From elliottr at rmi.net Fri Dec 7 18:09:00 2007 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 19:09:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump rebuild Message-ID: <4759EEAC.1050009@rmi.net> I have an original fuel pump with the priming lever that I would like to rebuild. I have purchased a rebuild kit. One of the valves I can get to from the back with a punch, but not the other one. Does any one have a good trick for getting the valve out? Any other tips for rebuilding it? I know there are reproductions available, but I wanted to give this a try. Thanks, Roger Elliott 1968 GT6 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Dec 7 20:42:14 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 22:42:14 EST Subject: [TR] cap and rotor advice Message-ID: _www.distributordoctor.com_ (http://www.distributordoctor.com) Best, Mike Moore **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Sat Dec 8 02:07:57 2007 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 09:07:57 -0000 Subject: [TR] cap and rotor advice In-Reply-To: <120820070013.12395.4759E1990005827D0000306B22165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20071208085928.147281879E0@autox.team.net> > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net > > Is there a source for guaranteed quality out there? Not to drag a debate > around our otherwise superb array of parts suppliers into the list, feel > free to e-mail me offline. Pardon the shameless commercial plug, but the question was asked. I carry high quality rotor arms of the following types: For DM, 22, 23 & 25D distributors: 4 cylinder - part number DRB101 6 cylinder - part number DRB106 For 45D distributors: 4 & 6 cylinder - part number DRB104 http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/ Details of the rotor arms are here: http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/Electrical/Rotor%20Arms.html Hope that helps, Cheers, Bill. From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sat Dec 8 04:50:43 2007 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 03:50:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] coil Message-ID: <318612.77648.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> rebuilt the head and after taken most of the car apart i forgot what side of the coil does the distributor go to + or - ty --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From technical-iwnet at onwight.net Sat Dec 8 05:30:06 2007 From: technical-iwnet at onwight.net (Graham Stretch) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 12:30:06 -0000 Subject: [TR] setting the float level on a SU H6 Long References: <000a01c83395$877255a0$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <001b01c83396$dc2c7070$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <018b01c83996$10fd1c00$0201a8c0@Zebu> Hi Guys I am taking a guess here that the question has arisen due to flooding? I had a run in with a Spit a few weeks ago, petrol pouring out of the rear carb car new to owner. Fit a pair of new needles and floats, the floats were not a pair and as they are reasonably cheap here we decided to remove the risk of a sinking float. Still fuel poured out, so having had a problem before with the seal around the thread that secures the float valve, I taped these with ptfe tape, yep fuel still leaked out! Time to get technical, got a low pressure gauge and measured the fuel pressure, 5 to 6 PSI. Looked for literature and found that SU's like 2 PSI so suggest to owner shell out for pressure regulator, he looked at the price and asked if I could think of any other way. As it happened I could, shorten the spring in the pump. (The pump works by the lever pulling the diaphragm down and filling the pump with fuel and then releasing the tension as the cam turns and the spring pushes the diaphragm up therefore the spring is what provides the pressure, when the flow is shut off and the pressure rises the spring is overpowered and the diaphragm is held down until the float level falls and allows fuel to flow again.) So we set about cutting the spring, this is a very crude way of reducing the spring rate by reducing its free length, we took a quarter at a time and eventually got to 2.5 PSI which as I have not had a return visit from the owner I guess was low enough. I have checked out several other cars with "NEW" fuel pumps and found that they all run in the 5 to 6 PSI range but some carbs seem to hold it back whilst others don't even when the float level is correct, though on 2 of the cars I have looked at there were signs of staining on the float chamber lids so these are probably running on the limit. I too have found that exact fuel levels are not too critical it just means that the mixture jet will not be at the same height on both carbs. Hope this helps Graham. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Paul Dorsey'" ; "'list Triumph'" Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 9:20 PM Subject: Re: [TR] setting the float level on a SU H6 >> When setting the float level on the SU H6 carb, the manual >> says to pass a >> 7/16" rod between the float level aluminum forked lever and >> the inverted lid. >> However, when this is done does this mean the needle >> completely shuts off >> (with the mimicing of fuel by one's breath). Or does it >> mean, 'that at >> 7/16"ths the fuel level just begins to stop' or other? > > Paul, I don't actually think it's all that critical. Small errors in > float > level don't seem to cause a problem. > > But I take it to mean that the valve should be closed (unable to blow > through it), with the fork dragging on the rod (on both sides). > > Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sat Dec 8 06:31:34 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 08:31:34 EST Subject: [TR] TR-3A Stoneguard question Message-ID: I have just removed what I would think are original stone guards, based upon their condition, and they are aluminum. I may be overestimating the stone guards ability to actually repel stones and look like that in 47 years. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From rgperry at earthlink.net Sat Dec 8 06:33:11 2007 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 07:33:11 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [TR] coil Message-ID: <30776146.1197120791576.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net> negative side Regards, Greg Perry >Subject: [TR] coil > >rebuilt the head and after taken most of the car apart i forgot what side of the coil does the distributor go to + or - ty From 6parts at charter.net Sat Dec 8 06:55:28 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 08:55:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Tonnaue Cover Message-ID: <003201c839a1$fd71f140$03d30c47@alan> I have a new uninstalled TR6 tonneau cover for sale on Ebay. If anyone needs one. Currently half of the lowest retail price around. It looks to me to be one made by Robbins. Snaps have not been installed. Item number 180187989743. Came with car I acquired. I need to buy an oil filter adapter which got broken in the accident. Al Salvatore www.triumphowners.com/1195 From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Dec 8 08:01:23 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2007 15:01:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] coil Message-ID: <120820071501.11155.475AB1C3000AF6C500002B9322155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> General question: doesn't it make a difference depending on whether you have a negative or positivie ground? Terry Smith, TR3A New Hampshire > rebuilt the head and after taken most of the car apart i forgot what side of the > coil does the distributor go to + or - ty From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sat Dec 8 08:00:15 2007 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 09:00:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump rebuild Message-ID: <380-22007126815015265@earthlink.net> Hi Roger, I wrote an article for my local club newsletter describing the rebuild process for a TR6 fuel pump. I have attempted to put some of the pictures at http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa68/gmark_01/Fuel%20Pump/?action=view&cu rrent=e9be68b7.pbw showing my methods. This may help you when doing yours. > Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump rebuild > > I have an original fuel pump with the priming lever that I would like to > rebuild. I have purchased a rebuild kit. One of the valves I can get > to from the back with a punch, but not the other one. > > Does any one have a good trick for getting the valve out? Any other > tips for rebuilding it? > > I know there are reproductions available, but I wanted to give this a try. > > Thanks, > Roger Elliott > 1968 GT6 From wbeech at flash.net Sat Dec 8 08:04:55 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 08:04:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR-3A Stoneguard question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071208150543.A8A12187A7C@autox.team.net> Maybe that's why my PO took them off and threw them out. Not much stone damage on that part of the fender, but they do look nice. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" _____ From: DLylis at aol.com [mailto:DLylis at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 6:32 AM To: wbeech at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3A Stoneguard question I have just removed what I would think are original stone guards, based upon their condition, and they are aluminum. I may be overestimating the stone guards ability to actually repel stones and look like that in 47 years. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO _____ Check out AOL Money & Finance's list of the HYPERLINK "http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001" \nhottest products and HYPERLINK "http://money.aol.com/top5/general/ways-you-are-wasting-money?NCID=aoltop000 30000000002" \ntop money wasters of 2007. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007 11:15 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007 11:15 PM From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Dec 8 08:28:43 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 15:28:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Sway Bar Custom Mounts In-Reply-To: <001001c838f9$46e93580$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000501c838ce$9aa32260$210110ac@bobspc> <8cbd782d0712070710w1ae91f4ag96c42b7005619ab5@mail.gmail.com> <001001c838f9$46e93580$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: The sway bar increases spring rate as it is compressed. If it is not mounted straight up and down the rate of the bar will be diminished. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate. Join in. www.windowslive.com/smile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_oprsmilewlhmtagline From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Dec 8 08:45:21 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 15:45:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR-3A Stoneguard question In-Reply-To: <20071207234548.56EB2187A69@autox.team.net> References: <20071207234548.56EB2187A69@autox.team.net> Message-ID: The originals that came off of my TR3A were aluminum. I used TRF replacements. They are aluminum. The fit is good. It took a little forming with a plastic ignition hammer to get the kind of seal around the edges I wanted. I also sealed the edges with clear RTV. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista. + Windows Live. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_M ediaCtr_bigscreen_102007 From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Dec 8 10:07:24 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 12:07:24 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Sway Bar Custom Mounts Message-ID: In a message dated 12/8/2007 9:28:56 AM Central Standard Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: > The sway bar increases spring rate as it is compressed. If it is not > mounted > straight up and down the rate of the bar will be diminished. > The rate will be a cosine function of the angle which means that if the angle is off by 30 degrees you still have 83% of the original rate. I wouldn't worry about a few degrees more or less unless you are an F1 race team. Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Dec 8 10:40:21 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 12:40:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Tonnaue Cover In-Reply-To: <001a01c839ba$80e43980$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> References: <003201c839a1$fd71f140$03d30c47@alan> <001a01c839ba$80e43980$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <002601c839c1$6ac1b450$210110ac@bobspc> Ed, I don't what you're buying or selling on eBay but I've had nothing but great experiences. In the fall, I cleaned out 10 years of TR6 stuff from my garage and sold it off in about 25 auctions netting me $1700. Every sale resulted in 100% positive feedback so what was "junk" to me was a treasure to them. And I know that a List member or two won a couple of auctions. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Ed Bratt Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 11:51 AM To: Alan Salvatore; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Tonnaue Cover Al: I could use a tonneau cover for my TR6; too bad you never offered it for sale before you put it on ebay. I have had enough agravation from ebay and it's merry band of liars and thieves that I will not be bidding on it. Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> To: ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 7:55 AM Subject: [6pack] TR6 Tonnaue Cover >I have a new uninstalled TR6 tonneau cover for sale on Ebay. If anyone >needs > one. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies! No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1177 - Release Date: 12/7/2007 1:11 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1177 - Release Date: 12/7/2007 1:11 PM From jmcoh at comcast.net Sat Dec 8 10:42:45 2007 From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 12:42:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] cap and rotor advice In-Reply-To: <120820070013.12395.4759E1990005827D0000306B22165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <120820070013.12395.4759E1990005827D0000306B22165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000601c839c1$bdce1490$ff04454b@COHEN1> Hi Terry, I read an article in Hemmings Sport & Exotic Car, about a company in Texas that was manufacturing its own authentic rotors for British cars due to the problems folks were having with the aftermarket rotors. I was going thru two to three per season and would always have two in the glovebox for quick retrieval. Anyway, I called the guy at Kip Motors in Texas, www.kipmotor.com and ordered one. It was expensive at $19 but he said it was a quality item that would not fail. I have one season in with about 2k miles and no troubles to report. The website is rather lame but they are very helpful when you call. John Cohen 76 TR6 Rutland, VT The list has seen innumerable mentions of unreliable rotors. But one thing I don't remember seeing is advice on where the best rotors are from? ISTR that the small brown rotors have given me no trouble, while I also STR that the small black ones failed once or twice. Is there a source for guaranteed quality out there? Not to drag a debate around our otherwise superb array of parts suppliers into the list, feel free to e-mail me offline. Thank you, everyone. Terry Smith, From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Dec 8 11:02:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 10:02:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR-3A Stoneguard question In-Reply-To: <20071208150543.A8A12187A7C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20071208180252.IYXN20723.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > Maybe that's why my PO took them off and threw them out. Not > much stone damage on that part of the fender, but they do look nice. Must depend on where & how you drive ... I left the stoneguards off my TR3A after getting it painted, and the paint in that area has been completely flayed off by grit, sand and small gravel thrown up from the road. But then, most TR owners won't even drive through a patch of sand, while I've been off the pavement more than once. Sometimes even deliberately Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Dec 8 11:05:58 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 10:05:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] coil In-Reply-To: <120820071501.11155.475AB1C3000AF6C500002B9322155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20071208180556.LQZW5365.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > General question: doesn't it make a difference depending on > whether you have a negative or positivie ground? A small difference, usually not a huge one. It will still run with the coil connected backwards, but you may get easier starts, etc. with it the right way around. Which for a negative ground car is "-" or "SW" to the distributor. For positive ground, connect "+" or "CB" to the distributor. Randall From N197TR4 at cs.com Sat Dec 8 12:41:11 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 14:41:11 EST Subject: [TR] Kip Motors in Texas Message-ID: John Cohen and all Kip Motors is an Interesting and long term family company....lots of low volume LBC cars not easily found are under their roof. It's like a tour through a candy store And Deb and Kip are doing things that other folks would not consider doing. I have heard nothing but the best about their rotors and caps and such. And their products is one of those reasons to pay a higher price as their products are so much superior to sourcing from Tawain. They are also very strong and instrumental in the development of British Motor Trade Association. BMTA website is http://www.britcar.org/ The British Motor Trade Association is made up of folks who are largely recognizable to most of us..... Joe Curto, for instance. Make this site one of your favorites and refer to it. It is nice summary of suppliers all over North America. Opinion: If you are a dues paying member of this new organization, you are likely serious about what you are doing. Disclaimer: Not that you HAVE to be a member to be serious. There are great suppliers out there that have elected not to be a member. Joe From wbeech at flash.net Sat Dec 8 12:49:33 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 12:49:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] cap and rotor advice In-Reply-To: <000601c839c1$bdce1490$ff04454b@COHEN1> Message-ID: <20071208195010.87938187B18@autox.team.net> Interesting site indeed, I wish I still had my Hillman Minx! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Cohen Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 10:43 AM To: terryrs at comcast.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] cap and rotor advice Hi Terry, I read an article in Hemmings Sport & Exotic Car, about a company in Texas that was manufacturing its own authentic rotors for British cars due to the problems folks were having with the aftermarket rotors. I was going thru two to three per season and would always have two in the glovebox for quick retrieval. Anyway, I called the guy at Kip Motors in Texas, www.kipmotor.com and ordered one. It was expensive at $19 but he said it was a quality item that would not fail. I have one season in with about 2k miles and no troubles to report. The website is rather lame but they are very helpful when you call. John Cohen 76 TR6 Rutland, VT The list has seen innumerable mentions of unreliable rotors. But one thing I don't remember seeing is advice on where the best rotors are from? ISTR that the small brown rotors have given me no trouble, while I also STR that the small black ones failed once or twice. Is there a source for guaranteed quality out there? Not to drag a debate around our otherwise superb array of parts suppliers into the list, feel free to e-mail me offline. Thank you, everyone. Terry Smith, This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1178 - Release Date: 12/8/2007 11:59 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1178 - Release Date: 12/8/2007 11:59 AM From dorpaul at negia.net Sat Dec 8 16:36:04 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 18:36:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Turning engine backwards? Message-ID: <022601c839f3$1ac9fb60$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, I may have asked this in the past. If I am handturning my TR3-4 engine with the fan blade in an effort to determine TDC (carefully using a McDonald's straw down the spark plug hole to gauge piston #1's exact highest point). If I turn the fan blade clock-wise till the moment the straw stops climbing, then I think I am alright. However, if I pass that point (even by 1 degree) so that the straw starts any downward movement THEN I SHOULD NOT (EVEN SLIGHTLY) BACK THE FAN BLADE IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION (CCW) DIRECTION lest I introduce slop to the drive chain--IS THIS CORRECT? CAN I GO A 1/16TH" SMIDGEN CCW? Will it do the motor definite harm if I go an inch (turning the fan) in the wrong direction? Mind you, I'll refrain from this- 'but what if a friend turns it an entire revolution backwards before I catch him?' Thanks, Paul 60 tr3 (w/ a TR4 engine) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Dec 8 17:06:11 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 16:06:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] Turning engine backwards? In-Reply-To: <022601c839f3$1ac9fb60$a594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071209000611.IJVT5365.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > Will it do the motor definite harm if I go an inch (turning > the fan) in the wrong direction? No Paul, it won't damage anything at all. It just means that you will not get an accurate reading if you try to set the ignition timing after turning the engine backwards. I turn mine backwards all the time, when setting the valve lash. In that case, I'm not worried about exact timing between crankshaft and camshaft, so I'm not worried about backlash in the timing chain. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sat Dec 8 18:28:54 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 20:28:54 EST Subject: [TR] cap and rotor advice Message-ID: Our jaguar list group bought a whole whole lot for the Distributor Doctor at around $6 each. Mike Moore **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sat Dec 8 18:34:43 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 20:34:43 EST Subject: [TR] TR-3A Stoneguard question Message-ID: I'm the second owner and bought mine from the original owner when the first TR4s came out. My stone guards were pretty beat up by the time I replaced them in 1990. The damage was caused by driving the car. Mike Moore **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From trhouse at greenapple.com Sat Dec 8 18:48:09 2007 From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder) Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2007 20:48:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR-3A Stoneguard question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: on 12/8/07 8:34 PM, MMoore8425 at aol.com at MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote: > I'm the second owner and bought mine from the original owner when the first > TR4s came out. My stone guards were pretty beat up by the time I replaced > them in 1990. The damage was caused by driving the car. > > Mike Moore > > > > **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest > products. > (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > In the old days they drove them till the stone gaurds rusted off then we fixed them!!!!!!!! Xmas humour HO! HO to All T From dorpaul at negia.net Sat Dec 8 20:04:50 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 22:04:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Distributors References: <071220072127.5633.46969CB20004514C000016012207021573030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <007a01c83a10$454c1180$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hi, It's been a long time since you posted this: Mechanically, there are differences between the DM2 and 25D4 units, This means that the Pertronix magnet sleeve that is correct (size/orientation) for one is not right for the other. Even then there was variability in production tolerances. The Pertronics for my 25D4 did NOT have a snug fit on the shaft and wiggled probably 3 degrees in either direction. Tech Service told me how to improve that, but it was definitely a Rube Goldberg fix. But I was wondering, did you ever get a Pertronix (or other brand) to fit in your 25D4 distributor? I am thinking about it. Thanks, Paul Dorsey From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sun Dec 9 05:27:12 2007 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 04:27:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] egr valve Message-ID: <802440.18400.qm@web30409.mail.mud.yahoo.com> gm all does the egr valve have any real purpose or can it be blancked off --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Dec 9 07:42:02 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2007 14:42:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 Distributors Message-ID: <120920071442.17487.475BFEBA000BC0580000444F22165384969C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Hi, Paul. You are probably addressing this to me, since I posted some questions on the topic a few months back. I did have a DM2 distributor, and I wanted to move into a Pertronix electronic ignition. What I found was, there is a Pertronix unit for the DM2, however it comes only in positive ground. I had converted to negative ground. I did source both--a 25D distributor and a negative ground Pertronix unit for it--from Fred Thomas. It dropped right in with minimimal effort, fits snug, and runs the car at peak performance, so the TR3A is finally free of the not-so-subtle degradations in power that I was experiencing as the poor quality plastic arm on the points rapidly wore down. I didn't keep the model number on the Pertronix unit, though. Have fun! Terry, (TS 58667) New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Paul Dorsey" > Hi, > It's been a long time since you posted this: > > Mechanically, there are differences between the DM2 and 25D4 units, This > means that the Pertronix magnet sleeve that is correct (size/orientation) > for one is not right for the other. Even then there was variability in > production tolerances. The Pertronics for my 25D4 did NOT have a snug fit > on the shaft and wiggled probably 3 degrees in either direction. Tech > Service told me how to improve that, but it was definitely a Rube Goldberg > fix. > > But I was wondering, did you ever get a Pertronix (or other brand) to fit in > your 25D4 distributor? > I am thinking about it. > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Dec 9 08:01:22 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 10:01:22 EST Subject: [TR] egr valve Message-ID: In a message dated 12/9/2007 6:27:33 AM Central Standard Time, rccpl1 at yahoo.com writes: > gm all does the egr valve have any real purpose or can it be blancked off > The EGR valve does two things: The first is to dilute the part throttle mixture and reduce peak combustion temperatures and reduce NOx emissions. The other is to dilute the part throttle mixture and reduce peak combustion temperatures and reduce pinging. Since it will close at full throttle it has no effect on full throttle performance. If you are running a late model TR6 your compression ratio is low enough that pinging is not a problem anyway so if you don't care about emissions you can block it off with no effect to the car's operation. Dave From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Dec 9 08:10:45 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2007 10:10:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] egr valve In-Reply-To: <802440.18400.qm@web30409.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <475BBF25.9349.25E8C5@localhost> On 9 Dec 2007 at 4:27, john doe wrote: > does the egr valve have any real purpose or can it be blancked off That depends on how well the rest of your emissions control system works. Those systems had to manage a tradeoff between unburned hydrocarbons, CO, and NOx. IIRC, running lean would reduce CO, but NOx would go up. EGR was intended to reduce combustion temperatures to lower NOx. A pump also dumped air into the exhaust to help the catalyst take care of any unburned HC's. If the rest of your emission system still works as intended you should leave the EGR in place. On the other hand, there's no point running it if it doesn't work. Maybe you can test the exhaust with it and without it, see what difference it makes, then decide. Just my opinion. I'm sure others will be able to provide more insight. I value clean air. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From logcabintr at gmail.com Sun Dec 9 08:21:50 2007 From: logcabintr at gmail.com (Rich Roenigk) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 10:21:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] hanging inner fenders after a major crash - TR4A Message-ID: Got whacked on Nov. 17th, T-boned by a fool who cut in front of me, both of us were luckily OK. We're assessing how to proceed with inner fenders - How far should we cut them back? Is that a good idea or should we go all the back to the cowl? How do you align the inner fenders? Any advice? BTDT Thanks, Rich From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Dec 9 12:05:37 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 12:05:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR-3A Stoneguard question In-Reply-To: <20071208150543.A8A12187A7C@autox.team.net> References: <20071208150543.A8A12187A7C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <5F18B67F42BB44C1AB2111F896B18BE2@GeoPC> I had a problem fitting the stoneguards as supplied by TRF. All I really needed to replace was one of the large ones (kerb!) but thought what the heck, do the whole set. The fitment difficultly I had was with the small pieces. The one on the left is from TRF, the one on the right came off the car -- I had installed it about 7 years ago, it came from Vicky Brit. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Stoneguards.JPG It was that bowed front edge you may see on the TRF one that was going to require some tweaking. Rather than mess with that I kept my old small ones and ordered just the one big one I really needed to replace from Moss (they sell the individual pieces). BTW -- TRF was very good about accepting the return (all still in the blue plastic sheathing). This isn't meant to slam or recommend any particular vendor, these have always been troublesome repro parts in my experience. Geo Hahn From acs25m at swbell.net Sun Dec 9 12:14:05 2007 From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 11:14:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Intake manifold Message-ID: <39444.25036.qm@web81604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi all, I have a problem that I hope someone out there can help me with. I own a TR250 that I have had overheating problems with. After looking at everything that I could think of I sent the motor to a machinist. He called a week or so ago and told me the head was a goner. The DPO had someone mill the head well!!!!over 100 thousandths and the webbing between several intake and exhaust ports had been welded at some point in the past and there was a lot of cracking. He said to get a different head as he couldn't gaurantee that rewelding would stay fixed. I made a deal with a local club member (SLTOA) and have a replacement head. My problem now becomes the fact that the earlier head had closer spacing on the intake than the later heads. My Intake won't fit!!! Does any one out there have a wider spaced intake that they would be willing to sell. If so drop me a line off list at acs25m at swbell.net. My name is John Maneke. Thank you for any help received. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Dec 9 12:20:08 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 12:20:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump rebuild In-Reply-To: <4759EEAC.1050009@rmi.net> References: <4759EEAC.1050009@rmi.net> Message-ID: <2E3E09B3835A4EC384AE1F28A29477BC@GeoPC> Certainly worth rebuilding a priming lever pump. This is just my opinion, but if the valves are working okay I leave them alone. I have never had a valve fail but I have had a replaced valve fall out. Okay, it wasn't properly staked if it fell out -- but I just tend to not mess with what can be a fussy task if the original staking is sound and the valves test fine with my suck & blow method. Geo Hahn ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Elliott" To: Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 6:09 PM Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump rebuild >I have an original fuel pump with the priming lever that I would like to > rebuild. I have purchased a rebuild kit. One of the valves I can get > to from the back with a punch, but not the other one. > > Does any one have a good trick for getting the valve out? Any other > tips for rebuilding it? From skip47 at powernet.net Sun Dec 9 13:45:44 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 12:45:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] Turning engine backwards? References: <20071209000611.IJVT5365.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <005701c83aa4$792e3ca0$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Hi Paul- Just a minor clarification of Randall's note- the cam timing chain always has a little slop in it, and if you turn the engine backward, you take up the slack in the backwards direction, which could be several degrees off, depending on the age and wear of the chain and pulleys. So when you turn the engine backward, turn it a little farther than you need, (10 degrees is plenty) and then forward again to reestablish correct timing. Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 65 TR4A > > Will it do the motor definite harm if I go an inch (turning > > the fan) in the wrong direction? > > No Paul, it won't damage anything at all. It just means that you will not > get an accurate reading if you try to set the ignition timing after turning > the engine backwards. > > I turn mine backwards all the time, when setting the valve lash. In that > case, I'm not worried about exact timing between crankshaft and camshaft, so > I'm not worried about backlash in the timing chain. > > Randall From mmeany at ne.rr.com Sun Dec 9 15:50:03 2007 From: mmeany at ne.rr.com (Mark Meany) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 17:50:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] A 'For Sale' question... Message-ID: <058101c83ab5$d65ab6e0$6601a8c0@meansterq9coh8> Triumph aficionados here in the northeast US may well remember Fred Perry of Brattleboro, VT. His knowledge & shed's worth of TR parts, particularly for the TR-3, were seemingly inexhaustible as well as his willingness to share his passion with a neophyte. During winters, he would rebuild/restore parts & squirrel them away in milk crates & boxes of every description. Fred Perry passed away about a month ago & so an effort is underway to help his Sally, his wife, sell off his inventory. Has anyone faced a similar project & how did they best go about it? Currently, we're thinking of taking one area at a time & publishing a list of available items maybe on a web site (which would teach me a thing or two). I thought of approaching this list first before eBay because I've gotten to know most of the names (even tho' I'm not a regular poster) & feel pretty comfortable dealing with y'all. Please feel free to respond directly as I'm on Digest. From jgillis at tcd.ie Sun Dec 9 15:55:01 2007 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 22:55:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] Back pressure Message-ID: still trial running the motor/engine (wont go into that one again) on the TR2. There is significant pressure, no smoke, coming back through the oil filler timed with the "beat" of the engine, I don't know the nature of TR engines, all previous work being on the Herald/Vitesse range, but I have never experienced such powerful pressure, particularly on a re-built engine, should I look into this further, any thoughts, theory's?? Regards John From skip47 at powernet.net Sun Dec 9 16:34:48 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 15:34:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] Back pressure References: Message-ID: <00b901c83abc$1791c170$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Hi John- It's always possible that rings have broken or didn't seat. You can check that by removing one spark plug at a time and noting any difference in the pressure beat coming out of the oil filler. If it's noticeably less, you've identified the culprit cylinder. Then remove all the lplugs and double check with a wet/dry compression test. Wet is squirting a little engine oil on each cylinder and noting the difference in pressure. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 765 TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gillis" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 2:55 PM Subject: [TR] Back pressure > still trial running the motor/engine (wont go into that one again) on > the TR2. There is significant pressure, no smoke, coming back through > the oil filler timed with the "beat" of the engine, I don't know the > nature of TR engines, all previous work being on the Herald/Vitesse > range, but I have never experienced such powerful pressure, > particularly on a re-built engine, should I look into this further, > any thoughts, theory's?? > Regards > John > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu Sun Dec 9 16:38:14 2007 From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 18:38:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Best compression ratio TR4A Message-ID: From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Dec 9 18:16:09 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 20:16:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Advice sought please! Message-ID: <04ea01c83aca$a5d19600$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Being somewhat near the end of a rebuild, I am jumping around the car ordering and working on different stuff. Please bear with me... Hopefully, I've started the last redo of my TR3's braking system. By now, the rubber parts on my new Brake & Clutch master cylinders has started to dry rot! Last time I worked on the brakes, I bled the system (I thought) but still found half a dozen brake fluif leaks. Since that was the outcome at that time, it's proably safe to say that the system has been exposed to at least some air ever since. Because brake fluif is very corrosive, I expect that I might just see the results of this in my lines, etc. In fact, when I undid several fittings from the calipers, I was thinking that I just might have wrapped them with Teflon tape as they were that white! (I seriously doubt that that suggestion was ever made by the list) so I bet that white stuff was a year's worth of corrosion around the fittings. However, I'd still love to be corrected. However, since it's only been a year, I'm thinking that this corrosion/white powder has not really taken up residence that much inside the non-stainless-steel lines (since they were new at that time). My plan is to take all connections apart and blow the line with compressed air to rid them of this white powder. I labored hard to fit those pistons inside the calipers, and I proably won't have to take those apart either, but who knows once I 'get into it'.. I'll go ahead and confess right now, there is one particular (inside) bolt on one caliper that I had to remove in order to get the wheel to turn hard in that direction. What I am saying is that the left caliper's bottom's inside bolt head came into contact with the spring pan's mounting bolt when turned very hard to the left. Mind you, the car was not driveable, and in reality, I'll make sure nothing comes close to intefering with the final result. One possibilty is to fasten this one spring pan bolt with something headless, like a carriage bolt. Has anyone had this problem?????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Perhaps this 'sharp' a turn is never really encountered with the tires mounted, or is that false? Are there any other suggestions about my methodology (for instance, 'it's not overly dangerous to blow compressed air into the front brake lines since the calipers are mounted over their rotors' is it?) I've never rebuilt a car before. Never hung around knowledgeable friends before...just learned it from books and this online list!!!!!!!!!!!! I HOLD NO ONE ELSE ACCOUNTABLE FOR THEIR HELP, I UNDERSTAND THAT I AM RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS REBUILD!!!!!! thanks, Paul Dorsey '60 TR3 From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Dec 9 18:26:59 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 20:26:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] advice sought- I FORGOT THIS! Message-ID: <04f101c83acb$c3dd6e20$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I FORGOT TO ASK ABOUT THIS IDEA--------------- Would it be a good idea to blow out my 1 year-old brake lines with compressed air, and then 'run' something thru them (or immerse them in something) just in case the 'fresh' brake fluif might have dried within the lines, and then, again blow them with compressed air (100 psi)? Thanks, Paul Dorsey From fishplate at charter.net Sun Dec 9 18:35:34 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2007 20:35:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Advice sought please! In-Reply-To: <04ea01c83aca$a5d19600$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <04ea01c83aca$a5d19600$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071210013528.CUOG17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 08:16 PM 12/9/2007, Paul Dorsey wrote: >Because brake fluif is very corrosive, I expect that I >might just see the results of this in my lines, etc. ??? Brake fluid is not corrosive. If it was, it wouldn't make a very good brake fluid... What it is, is hygroscopic, meaning it tends to absorb water. So there may be some effect of condensation showing. I would not expect permanent damage, unless there is substantial white flaky junk showing inside the lines, in which case you have another problem besides fluif - maybe you stored the car under water? Water shouldn't have been much of a problem where you are... I'd consider just flusing it with fresh Castrol LMA - you can get it at Pep Boys, if not other places. I just can't imagine the entire brake system going to rot in a year - plenty of these cars sit longer that that, and survive... Jeff Scarbrough USDA, ARS, JPCNRCC 1420 Experiment Station Road Watkinsville GA 30677 706.769.5631 ext. 229 fax: 706.769.8962 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007 11:06 AM From wbeech at flash.net Sun Dec 9 20:24:49 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 20:24:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] advice sought- I FORGOT THIS! In-Reply-To: <04f101c83acb$c3dd6e20$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071210032523.E3A001879FA@autox.team.net> If only a year, I would get a gallon of fresh fluid and do a thorough bleed at every wheel and the slave(they share the reservoir). I just bled mine after the car had been sitting for at least five years and just got some sediment, then everything seemed to work fine. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 6:27 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] advice sought- I FORGOT THIS! I FORGOT TO ASK ABOUT THIS IDEA--------------- Would it be a good idea to blow out my 1 year-old brake lines with compressed air, and then 'run' something thru them (or immerse them in something) just in case the 'fresh' brake fluif might have dried within the lines, and then, again blow them with compressed air (100 psi)? Thanks, Paul Dorsey This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007 11:06 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007 11:06 AM From BearTranserv at aol.com Sun Dec 9 20:25:31 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 22:25:31 EST Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack Message-ID: In a message dated 12/4/2007 1:06:49 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, jimhearn1 at comcast.net writes: To use one continuous strap (2 per rack), would require a belt appx. 70 inches long. Has anyone done leather straps on a similar luggage rack? Any ideas would be appreciated. Use two leather belts in series? or have them sewn together at the local shoe shop. Buy a real leather belt, one 34 inch and one 36 inch and put them together? Not the cheapest solution, but perhaps the easiest. You might also try a tack shop near the local horse stalls or racetrack. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From BearTranserv at aol.com Sun Dec 9 20:27:29 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 22:27:29 EST Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack Message-ID: In a message dated 12/4/2007 5:18:09 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: Instead, one rolls up the straps and keeps them somewhere convenient, like in the picnic basket? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sun Dec 9 20:57:51 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 22:57:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Advice sought please! References: <04ea01c83aca$a5d19600$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <20071210013528.CUOG17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <004101c83ae0$d6753530$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> DOT 3 and 4 doesn't help the paintwork too much, but just as you say, it does not cause internal corrosion. External alloy parts of the brake system exposed to air and water will often acquire a powdery white patina. As long as the working/moving parts are not affected, you are probably OK, but a rebuild of the seals does no harm. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Scarbrough" To: "Paul Dorsey" ; "list Triumph" Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 8:35 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Advice sought please! > At 08:16 PM 12/9/2007, Paul Dorsey wrote: >>Because brake fluif is very corrosive, I expect that I >>might just see the results of this in my lines, etc. > > ??? > > Brake fluid is not corrosive. If it was, it wouldn't make a very > good brake fluid... What it is, is hygroscopic, meaning it tends to > absorb water. So there may be some effect of condensation > showing. I would not expect permanent damage, unless there is > substantial white flaky junk showing inside the lines, in which case > you have another problem besides fluif - maybe you stored the car > under water? Water shouldn't have been much of a problem where you are... > > I'd consider just flusing it with fresh Castrol LMA - you can get it > at Pep Boys, if not other places. I just can't imagine the entire > brake system going to rot in a year - plenty of these cars sit longer > that that, and survive... > > Jeff Scarbrough USDA, ARS, JPCNRCC > 1420 Experiment Station Road Watkinsville GA 30677 > 706.769.5631 ext. 229 fax: 706.769.8962 > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: > 12/9/2007 11:06 AM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From acs25m at swbell.net Sun Dec 9 21:14:00 2007 From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 20:14:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Intake manifold Message-ID: <19265.88026.qm@web81609.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thank you to everyone who answered my call for an intake manifold. I have had an offer that I couldn't refuse from a local source. John Maneke From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Dec 9 21:38:26 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 23:38:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] marking TDC Message-ID: <051101c83ae6$e8f72820$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I'm still quite an amateur because me (or the engine shop) put the 'crankshaft pulley flange' on in the slightly wrong position. I don't think I have cause to worry, though, as I ran the engine (mounted on the chassis and a year and a half ago) without discovering this error until yesterday. Now I've got the body on it, and I had to use the Bentley manual (TR3B-TR4) to again do the 'ignition timing' procedure. I know things are weird cause I pulled #1 spark plug (and with the Sun's direct rays) I could see inside the cylinder. I also took my plastic straw, holding it in a consistant place on top of the piston (and notching a spot on it too to make sure when it's heighth plateau'd after a rising) and was satisfied when TDC occured on the correct stroke. Of course, the dist. rotor pointed at #1 (verifying things). AGAIN THE BIG THING IS THIS: when the flange's hole lined up with the pointer, the #1 piston was far from the top! Again, i went twice around with the fan blades and I saw that TDC occured when the small hole was at 10 o'clock instead of 12 o'clock.. I JUST to fix this so I can time it, but, I don't care to dissassemble it just to get the small flange hole right. I'll be satisfied with a dot of white paint or something. Hopefully, it's not going to be difficult! Maybe a small white dot about 2", or so, on the flange before the hole? Thanks, Paul From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 9 23:23:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 22:23:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] marking TDC In-Reply-To: <051101c83ae6$e8f72820$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071210062354.PTHH25190.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > I'm still quite an amateur because me (or the engine shop) > put the 'crankshaft pulley flange' on in the slightly wrong > position. Certainly not the first to make that mistake, likely won't be the last either. > but, I > don't care to dissassemble it just to get the small flange > hole right. I'll be satisfied with a dot of white paint or something. Up to you, of course, but I would want to fix it right. Otherwise, I know someone (likely me) will forget or not know about the white dot, and try to use the factory mark. > Hopefully, it's not going to be difficult! Maybe a small > white dot about 2", or so, on the flange before the hole? Should be adequate, if you can get it accurately placed at TDC. Randall From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu Mon Dec 10 04:12:07 2007 From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 06:12:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Best compression TR4A Message-ID: Ok, Let me try again Following the advice of listers in lowering my compression ratio by using a thicker head gasket. Current compression is 205 lb psi . Goal is to lower ratio to reduce or eliminate dieseling and to allow use of 87 octane gasoline. My question is what compression ratio would that be? Thanks all, and to Dan for suggesting gasket works. Arnold, 1965 TR4A off the road again. Moderation is a fatal thing... No thing succeeds like excess. Oscar Wilde (1854 -1900) From supertr6 at earthlink.net Mon Dec 10 05:43:17 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 07:43:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> <02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <475D3465.90009@earthlink.net> LOL! Now this is why I keep reading this list... John Macartney wrote: > If one has a picnic basket for occasional use on one's luggage rack, one does not leave the straps > in place when one has no basket. Simply "not done" old boy. Instead, one rolls up the straps and > keeps them somewhere convenient, though one could request one's Butler to keep the straps pristine > with the application of saddle soap and boot polish. > If the Butler declines to do this, he should discuss the matter with one's Groom in the Tack Room > > Jonmac > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "jim hearn" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 8:05 PM > Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack > > > >> I have a '74 TR6 and a Moss style luggage rack. I have also picked up a >> couple of English style picnic baskets. Now I am trying to figure out some >> leather straps that will secure a picnic basket and also look OK when there >> is no basket on the rack. This last part is my biggest dilemma. I have >> seen some with a strap and buckle riveted on which I have not seen when the >> rack is empty. To use one continuous strap (2 per rack), would require a >> belt appx. 70 inches long. Has anyone done leather straps on a similar >> luggage rack? Any ideas would be appreciated. >> >> Jim Hearn >> Two '74 TR6s From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Dec 10 07:56:21 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 14:56:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] advice sought- I FORGOT THIS! In-Reply-To: <04f101c83acb$c3dd6e20$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <04f101c83acb$c3dd6e20$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Yes, blow them out then inject brake cleaner into them unitl it comes out the other end clean. Then blow them out with air until dry. Best regards, Tom > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live.Download today it's FREE! http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_sharelife_112007 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Dec 10 08:23:03 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 15:23:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] Best compression TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: About 8 to 81/2 to 1. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate. Join in. www.windowslive.com/smile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_oprsmilewlhmtagline From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Dec 10 09:40:25 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 11:40:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] ball jt. grease escape Message-ID: <055101c83b4b$5ee96840$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Another subject... While greasing my ball joints located atop the vertical link (and if viewing the backside w/ a mirror) I could see ribbons of grease escaping at the bottom of the new rubber boot. The vertical link squishes the rubber tight on the outside, but a wide angle on the inside. They look installed tight and grab correctly where they should. Unfortunately, this proably happens regardless of front wheel direction. I'm thinking it's unavoidable...-right? Paul From pethier at comcast.net Mon Dec 10 11:30:43 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 18:30:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] advice sought- I FORGOT THIS! Message-ID: <121020071830.10248.475D85D30001B72E0000280822134843739D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: tom white > Yes, blow them out then inject brake cleaner into them unitl it comes out the > other end clean. Then blow them out with air until dry. > > Best regards, > Tom If the air is your last fluid, you might want to ensure that your air is really dry and oil-free. In the research lab, we always had dry nitrogen, but not everybody can be that lucky. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com Mon Dec 10 14:13:43 2007 From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 16:13:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Steering Column Question Message-ID: As I work on installing my steering column assembly, I have tried & tried to separate the shaft that the steering wheel bolts to from the shaft that is the next in line (the two shafts bolt together as on has a flat.) Do I need to separate these two shafts & make sure all is well or since they basically appear as one, am I OK to re-assemble? Any hints on how to disassemble & not destroy either part? Are these shafts designed to break apart in an accident? Safety first... Thanks, John Dunham From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Dec 10 14:46:37 2007 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 16:46:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <475D3465.90009@earthlink.net> References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> <02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> <475D3465.90009@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <6fa72a770712101346x4a2d9cf2lcc0506c612c02da2@mail.gmail.com> You all have me feeling ashamed. I have been using long bright yellow nylon straps to hold down the basket ... When I think about it now, does kinda tarnish the overall look and feel I was going for.... Undoing nylon straps at the picnic site is akin to having the picnic basket loaded with Big Macs..... and compounded by forgetting to pack my jar of Grey Poupon.... I've got the the TRF SS (no drill) luggage rack. I also added internal rear hinge stiffiner brackets - I made from plans found through this list - for those wine related picnics. I'm not near my car right now - anyone know how wide a strap this one takes I'd appreciate a contact off list - I'm thinking 1 1/4 inch. I'm visiting my contract manufacturer's this week in Mainland China - not the best timing. But I think I'll see if I can get a pair made while I'm enjoying my stay. Chris 54 TR2 63 TR4 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Dec 10 14:56:32 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 14:56:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vibration Message-ID: In a TR4 on 165x15 tires I am getting a vibration that comes on about 58 mph and goes away around 62 mph. Vibration is most apparent in the steering wheel and scuttle. Not a slight vibration but a pretty good shake. It goes away at higher speeds and all is really smooth at 75 and beyond. What I have tried so far (w/o effecting any change)... Tried a variety of roads driving in 3rd & 4th w & w/o OD Had the tires re-balanced (1 took a different weight/different spot) Put on a different set of tires & wheels Tried the air pressure specified in the manual (I usually use a much higher pressure) I suppose the culprit could be the driveshaft (guess that's the biggest rotating mass aside from the wheels/tires) but I swear this came on during a long drive and was not associated with any service or change to the driveline. I have considered undoing one driveshaft flange and remounting it 180 degrees off from present orientation. Have also considered mounting the brake drum 180 degrees from current. Right now I'd settle for something that changes it, even for the worse, to get some clue where to go. Can a driveshaft that has been in service for years suddenly need balancing? Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks! Geo Hahn From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Dec 10 15:39:45 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 15:39:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Steering Column Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48A73290EB64410CA726AD17D8D5450E@GeoPC> This portion of the steering column allows some adjustment in the steering wheel position and, depending on where it is set, some small amount of collapse in the event of a collision. It is a useful feature I think, e.g. if you fit a tonneau cover it enables you to position the steering wheel so it fits well in the pocket provided. The sliding bit is secured by a big set-screw that takes an allen wrench. The whole piece is a clamp arrangement that is secured by a pair of bolts. Loosening either the bolts or the set-screw will enable you to move the upper section of the column and even completely withdraw it... very useful when R&Ring the gearbox on a LHD car. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Dunham" To: "list Triumph" ; ; Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 2:13 PM Subject: [TR] TR4 Steering Column Question > As I work on installing my steering column assembly, I have tried & tried > to separate the shaft that the steering wheel bolts to from the shaft that > is the next in line (the two shafts bolt together as on has a flat.) > Do I need to separate these two shafts & make sure all is well or since > they basically appear as one, am I OK to re-assemble? Any hints on how to > disassemble & not destroy either part? Are these shafts designed to break > apart in an accident? From twakeman at razzolink.com Mon Dec 10 16:02:27 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 15:02:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering wheel condition Message-ID: <475DC583.7020300@razzolink.com> I need to raise some money quickly so have decided to put some things I've been keeping up for sale. I have a TR3 steering wheel that I plan to put up on ebay but I have no idea of how to describe its condition. I have no idea what condition most stock steering wheels are in. Can someone more familiar with average condition stock wheels help me guess a description? The steering wheel is intact unbent with no chips missing. The spokes look nice. The back of the centre needs refinishing as there are numerous metal spots showing. Each of the three parts of the outer rim where the spokes connect have a couple smallish cracks. From 3-4 feet away the wheel looks pretty nice. A leather steering wheel wrap and a sanding & painting of the rear of the hub and it would look real nice close up. Any suggestions in a label for condition? Used average? Used poor, Good for its age? Or is the condition bad enough that no one will bid & I would be better off tossing the wheel than paying for an ebay listing? TeriAnn From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Dec 10 16:11:27 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 23:11:27 -0000 Subject: [TR] Vibration References: Message-ID: <02da01c83b81$fe617940$0201a8c0@Bevan> George Hahn wrote: > Can a driveshaft that has been in service for years suddenly need balancing? Yes, it certainly can! This is a typical Triumph 'bete noire' A hitherto non-vibrating shaft can suddenly go out of balance with the spot-welded weight flying off because of rust, weak weld or whatever. It's happened to me on 2 Heralds, a Vitesse and a GT6. While it's off the car, it might be a good idea to fit new u/j's. Word of advice, before removing the thing from the car, paint a white spot on the mating faces of the shaft where it bolts to the gearbox and diff nose. That way, you'll know where to refit as it was before removal. This is an *exacting science* taught to me by an expert on Herald propshaft vibration. He said it all helped to make a 'good difference' but who am I to query the logic. I guess he'd re-balanced more shafts than I've had hot dinners. Also, do try to ensure the u/j yokes maintain their relationship to one another. Having done all that, get it professionally balanced and for safety sake I'd fit two of those nylon electrical cable ties around the new weight at either end to ensure it doesn't fly off at a later date. Just keep the clip buckles at 180deg to one another to be sure. Cheers, Jonmac From mathews at uga.edu Mon Dec 10 16:11:58 2007 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 18:11:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vibration In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20071210231319.98CDA1879D7@autox.team.net> have you tried moving 2 tires (swapping them) say left rear and right front and see if the problem goes away? If it does not on the first try, then swap the other 2. Doug At 04:56 PM 12/10/2007, you wrote: >Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks! From mmeany at ne.rr.com Mon Dec 10 16:27:07 2007 From: mmeany at ne.rr.com (Mark Meany) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 18:27:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] A 'For Sale' question...II Message-ID: <06b501c83b84$2e3cd680$6601a8c0@meansterq9coh8> All, Many thanks to those responding with condolences & suggestions on how to handle Fred Perry's inventory. Right now, we're leaning towards a classified ad in VTR (thanks for the suggestion, Blake) which we could update regularly as items move in & out of garages, sheds, & attics. Several folks enquired about specific item's availability. We regret we can't chase that down at present - maybe after the holidays - although to be truthful, we're more leaning towards clearing out one area at a time as opposed to searching in multiple areas for individual items. Apologies if this come across as being uncooperative. Mark Meany Keene, NH '65 TR4A IRS O From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Dec 10 16:37:26 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 16:37:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering wheel condition In-Reply-To: <475DC583.7020300@razzolink.com> References: <475DC583.7020300@razzolink.com> Message-ID: Certainly sounds like a wheel worth saving (i.e. sounds better than what I have on my car or the one on the shelf). When in doubt how to present an item's condition I take detailed photos, call attention to the flaws and let the pictures speak for themselves. Just don't use RARE and L@@K in the listing ;) Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" To: "triumph list" Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 4:02 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 steering wheel condition >I need to raise some money quickly so have decided to put some things > I've been keeping up for sale. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Dec 10 17:27:46 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 19:27:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] A 'For Sale' question...II In-Reply-To: <06b501c83b84$2e3cd680$6601a8c0@meansterq9coh8> References: <06b501c83b84$2e3cd680$6601a8c0@meansterq9coh8> Message-ID: <200712101927.46721.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 10 December 2007 06:27 pm, Mark Meany wrote: > All, > > Many thanks to those responding with condolences & suggestions on how to > handle Fred Perry's inventory. Right now, we're leaning towards a > classified ad in VTR (thanks for the suggestion, Blake) which we could > update regularly as items move in & out of garages, sheds, & attics. > > Several folks enquired about specific item's availability. We regret we > can't chase that down at present - maybe after the holidays - although to > be truthful, we're more leaning towards clearing out one area at a time as > opposed to searching in multiple areas for individual items. Apologies if > this come across as being uncooperative. > > Mark Meany > Keene, NH > '65 TR4A IRS O Mark, As you place add/adds in VTR could you notify the list so we can have a shot at some of the parts before they get all gobbled up? Also, Do you plan to have a "garage" sale, allow visits where one could pick up and pay for whatever parts are currently sorted out and for sale. For those parts that would be hard to ship (heavy, bulky etc). Bob From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Dec 10 16:54:19 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 16:54:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <475D3465.90009@earthlink.net> References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> <02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> <475D3465.90009@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <475DD1AB.2040306@tscusa.org> Well Joe, if you really like this, John will be spewing out stuck like this in his 2009 Charity Drive stops around North America, and maybe even around the UK in 2008. So keep an eye out for locations soon, maybe get your own club signed up for one of his stops. Joe Burlein wrote: > LOL! Now this is why I keep reading this list... > > John Macartney wrote: > >> If one has a picnic basket for occasional use on one's luggage rack, one does not leave the straps >> in place when one has no basket. Simply "not done" old boy. Instead, one rolls up the straps and >> keeps them somewhere convenient, though one could request one's Butler to keep the straps pristine >> with the application of saddle soap and boot polish. >> If the Butler declines to do this, he should discuss the matter with one's Groom in the Tack Room >> >> Jonmac >> -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Dec 10 18:03:36 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 20:03:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Advice sought please! In-Reply-To: <04ea01c83aca$a5d19600$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <04ea01c83aca$a5d19600$ce94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200712102003.36532.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 09 December 2007 08:16 pm, Paul Dorsey wrote: > I'll go ahead and confess right now, there is one particular (inside) > bolt on one caliper that I had to remove in order to get the wheel to turn > hard in that direction. What I am saying is that the left caliper's > bottom's inside bolt head came into contact with the spring pan's mounting > bolt when turned very hard to the left. Mind you, the car was not > driveable, and in reality, I'll make sure nothing comes close to intefering > with the final result. One possibilty is to fasten this one spring pan bolt > with something headless, like a carriage bolt. Has anyone had this > problem?????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Perhaps this > 'sharp' a turn is never really encountered with the tires mounted, or is > that false? > Paul, Something is wrong here. The caliper should not even come close to the spring pan. And if correctly mounted, no part of the caliper should prevent turning. That is once the steering stops are correctly adjusted. Also, use the correct bolts to attach the spring pan to the lower wishbone components. I believe they are grade 8 or above. Lots of tension here once assembled with the spring. One other question, is the bolt that is hitting the spring pan,the correct bolt to attach the caliper to the caliper mounting plate? This is a very special bolt as Randall pointed out in a post about a month ago. Bob From mmeany at ne.rr.com Mon Dec 10 17:17:15 2007 From: mmeany at ne.rr.com (Mark Meany) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 19:17:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] A 'For Sale' question...II References: <06b501c83b84$2e3cd680$6601a8c0@meansterq9coh8> <200712101927.46721.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <072801c83b8b$38915280$6601a8c0@meansterq9coh8> "Mark, As you place add/adds in VTR could you notify the list so we can have a shot at some of the parts before they get all gobbled up? Also, Do you plan to have a "garage" sale, allow visits where one could pick up and pay for whatever parts are currently sorted out and for sale. For those parts that would be hard to ship (heavy, bulky etc). Bob" Bob, Obviously, the details haven't been worked out but I suppose if we're to submit a list of stuff to the VTR, we could cross-post to the List so List folks get a shot at it right quick. The 'garage sale' idea is a great one! Thanks! Shipping re-chromed windshield stanchions & body panels would be difficult. I wonder how many people would want to drive to SW NH, tho'. Maybe I could entice them with maple syrup... Mark Meany Keene, NH '65 TR4A IRS O From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Dec 10 17:19:48 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 16:19:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering wheel condition In-Reply-To: <475DC583.7020300@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <20071211001948.PCUE25412.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Any suggestions in a label for condition? Used average? Used > poor, Good for its age? My suggestion would be to simply call it "used", and then put exactly what you've written above in the body of the auction. What you describe is considerably better than the one on my TR3A, and no worse than any in the attic (which have been in dry storage since around 1975). Randall From triumph66 at gmail.com Mon Dec 10 18:47:51 2007 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 20:47:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <475DD1AB.2040306@tscusa.org> References: <003301c836b1$08914ab0$b1191718@computer> <02aa01c836d4$50584d30$0201a8c0@Bevan> <475D3465.90009@earthlink.net> <475DD1AB.2040306@tscusa.org> Message-ID: Joe and fellow Merritt Islanders/Cape Canaveral/Cocoa Beach TR people are all probably in luck as Brits can't seem to resist the appeal of some rays of sunshine, given the UK's rather rainy weather. On Dec 10, 2007 6:54 PM, Glenn A. Merrell wrote: > Well Joe, if you really like this, John will be spewing out stuck like > this in his 2009 Charity Drive stops around North America, and maybe > even around the UK in 2008. So keep an eye out for locations soon, > maybe get your own club signed up for one of his stops. > > Joe Burlein wrote: > > LOL! Now this is why I keep reading this list... > > > > John Macartney wrote: > > > >> If one has a picnic basket for occasional use on one's luggage rack, > one does not leave the straps > >> in place when one has no basket. Simply "not done" old boy. Instead, > one rolls up the straps and > >> keeps them somewhere convenient, though one could request one's Butler > to keep the straps pristine > >> with the application of saddle soap and boot polish. > >> If the Butler declines to do this, he should discuss the matter with > one's Groom in the Tack Room > >> > >> Jonmac > -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO From DLylis at aol.com Mon Dec 10 19:05:12 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 21:05:12 EST Subject: [TR] Vibration Message-ID: That you feel it in your hands at the steering wheel tells me that it is likely to be a balance/runout issue with the front wheels. You have changed out the wheels and tires and it did not go away so I would then check the hubs for runout. IMHO with an out of balance propshaft you are going to feel it more in the seat of your pants. Check your front wheel bearings and hubs for runout. Just my two Euros worth. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Dec 10 20:27:19 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 22:27:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] What Does It Weigh? Message-ID: <000e01c83ba5$be4143d0$210110ac@bobspc> OK.....so as I get ready to pull lots of TR6 stuff, I'm wondering....what does it weigh...in case it falls on my head! Just kidding as I'm a very cautious person but what does it weigh? Engine? Tranny? Differential? and Driveshaft? Just curious. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007 11:06 AM From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Dec 10 20:42:51 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 22:42:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Leather straps for TR6 luggage rack In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770712101346x4a2d9cf2lcc0506c612c02da2@mail.gmail.com> References: <475D3465.90009@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <475DC0EB.6021.67A1F10@localhost> On 10 Dec 2007 at 16:46, Chris Simonsen wrote: > anyone know how wide a strap this one takes I'd appreciate > a contact off list - I'm thinking 1 1/4 inch. Oh, come now. Surely you must be aware that 1 1/4 inch is not suitable for anything on a Triumph. It should be 1 5/32 inch. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From CarlSereda at aol.com Mon Dec 10 21:53:54 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 23:53:54 EST Subject: [TR] re TR Vibration Message-ID: Geo, I had a very good condition TR driveshaft fine-tuned at Drivelines Inc. and along with the little square metal piece that was already spot welded on, the balance guy welded on two nickel sized washers in two opposite places to fine tune it. Most TR driveshafts I've seen have at least one square/rectangle metal piece (about 3/4" x1.5") spot welded onto shaft along tube. I would check your's for a clean spot that might have lost this weight or two. I would also have someone drive the car at speeds on freeway that bring on the shake, while you check both sides in another vehicle looking for bouncing tires. Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ------------------------------------ Can a driveshaft that has been in service for years suddenly need balancing? Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks! Geo Hahn ************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Dec 11 05:32:43 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 07:32:43 EST Subject: [TR] Vibration Message-ID: In a message dated 12/10/2007 5:11:01 PM Central Standard Time, standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: > >Can a driveshaft that has been in service for years suddenly need > balancing? > > Yes, it certainly can! This is a typical Triumph 'bete noire' A hitherto > non-vibrating shaft can > suddenly go out of balance with the spot-welded weight flying off because of > rust, weak weld or > whatever. > Maybe he should also have his tyres dismounted and checked for errant pork chop bones therein. ;-) Dave From peb3 at cornell.edu Tue Dec 11 06:54:25 2007 From: peb3 at cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 08:54:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vibration In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: A number of years ago I decided to track down the source of a vibration that came on at the usual 50-60 MPH range. I took the driveshaft to a heavy-duty truck garage to have the joints replaced and the shaft balanced. The fellow called back and said the shaft was bent! He straightened it, re-balanced it and installed the new joints. Vibration gone. I have no idea how it got bent, but it cured a problem I'd had with the car from the day I bought it. Just another thing to check in such a situation. -- Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) Keeneyville, PA (visit our new location!) '71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Tue Dec 11 07:19:19 2007 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 09:19:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A top speed & horn sound Message-ID: <475e9c67.249.4e0b.21914@cogeco.ca> Just curious, does anybody know what the period road tests recorded for the top speed of the TR3? I remember reading the early model did a high speed run to 125mph but I'm assuming that was with wheel spats and no windscreen etc.. I'm curious about the standard car. Also does anybody have a recording of the horn? (mp3 or wav format). Thanks, Art. From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Tue Dec 11 08:18:23 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 09:18:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A top speed & horn sound In-Reply-To: <475e9c67.249.4e0b.21914@cogeco.ca> References: <475e9c67.249.4e0b.21914@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <200712111518.lBBFIWtH053505@ns3.geneseo.net> Q: At 08:19 AM 12/11/2007, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote: Just curious, does anybody know what the period road tests recorded for the top speed of the TR3? I remember reading the early Top speed model did a high speed run to 125mph but I'm assuming that was with wheel spats and no windscreen etc.. I'm curious about the standard car. Also does anybody have a recording of the horn? (mp3 or wav format). Thanks, Art. A. According to Road and Track of the era, stats went like this: TR2,1954 Top speed 95.9 no overdrive 103.8 in OD TR3 - 1956- one more ft lb torque R & T recorded top end at 105 Factory said 108 0-60 12 sec TR4 was leaps and bounds better (haha) factory said top end 110 0 - 60 10.5 By comparison, R & T reports on the Kastner TR4A at Bonneville 140 hp on the engine dyno Timed runs on the salt flats were 128.2 with Webers and 127 with SU's. The team felt that they could have gotten 135 mph with better salt conditions. It's amusing to me that the technical problems encountered were flywheel bolts shearing off and oil pump drive failure -- both of these problems are still common on vintage race cars if you don't use ARP bolts to hold on the flywheel and if you don't radius the ears on the oil pump. These problems almost never occur on street cars. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >http://www.team.net/archive From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Tue Dec 11 09:10:28 2007 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 08:10:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] Vibration Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD63C22@kb1.mossmotors.com> Have you checked alignment? I have had situations in various vehicles where a front end vibration is caused by alignment problems. Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 Daily Driver From koblinger at verizon.net Tue Dec 11 11:11:12 2007 From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 12:11:12 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR3A top speed & horn sound Message-ID: <18080413.18664781197396672854.JavaMail.root@vms170.mailsrvcs.net> >From: Kas Kastner Kas, I've always wondered, do cars at Bonneville ever really hook-up, or are you getting wheel spin all the way down the course? Cheers, Kurt O. >Date: 2007/12/11 Tue AM 10:06:13 CST >To: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca, triumphs at autox.team.net, fot at autox.team.net, "Jack W. Drews" >Subject: Re: [Fot] [TR] TR3A top speed & horn sound >Just a bit of info on our Salt Flats run, that 128.2 MPH was an average >speed over the timed section of 1/4 mile. and also the Salt is at 4000 feet >altitude. From smacsjunk at hotmail.com Tue Dec 11 11:21:14 2007 From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 12:21:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A top speed & horn sound In-Reply-To: <475e9c67.249.4e0b.21914@cogeco.ca> References: <475e9c67.249.4e0b.21914@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: The TR2 Jabekke record run was made both in regular road trim and in speed trim (spats, undertray, racing screen and tonneau cover. I forget the actual speeds recorded, but believe in road trim it was over 100 mph and in speed trim 124 mph. There's a full hour documentry on the run on Youtube at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVCEvK3JMng cheers Scott> From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca> Just curious, does anybody know what the period road tests recorded for the top speed of the TR3? I remember reading> the early model did a high speed run to 125mph but I'm assuming that was with wheel spats and no windscreen etc.. I'm> curious about the standard car. _________________________________________________________________ Introducing the City @ Live! Take a tour! http://getyourliveid.ca/?icid=LIVEIDENCA006 From smacsjunk at hotmail.com Tue Dec 11 11:21:18 2007 From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 12:21:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A top speed & horn sound In-Reply-To: <475e9c67.249.4e0b.21914@cogeco.ca> References: <475e9c67.249.4e0b.21914@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: The TR2 Jabekke record run was made both in regular road trim and in speed trim (spats, undertray, racing screen and tonneau cover. I forget the actual speeds recorded, but believe in road trim it was over 100 mph and in speed trim 124 mph. There's a full hour documentry on the run on Youtube at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVCEvK3JMng cheers Scott> From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca> Just curious, does anybody know what the period road tests recorded for the top speed of the TR3? I remember reading> the early model did a high speed run to 125mph but I'm assuming that was with wheel spats and no windscreen etc.. I'm> curious about the standard car. _________________________________________________________________ Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon! http://puzzles.sympatico.msn.ca/chicktionary/index.html?icid=htmlsig From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Dec 11 11:53:31 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 10:53:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] What Does It Weigh? In-Reply-To: <000e01c83ba5$be4143d0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000e01c83ba5$be4143d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <02d901c83c27$2007eac0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > OK.....so as I get ready to pull lots of TR6 stuff, I'm > wondering....what > does it weigh...in case it falls on my head! Just kidding as > I'm a very > cautious person but what does it weigh? Engine? Tranny? > Differential? and > Driveshaft? Bob, I didn't see any answers to this, so here are some guesstimates. Engine : Dan Masters gave 460 lbs, fully assembled but dry Gearbox : Roughly 100 lbs, more with OD. (With crate & J-type, UPS said mine was 145) Diff : Roughly 80 lbs Driveshaft : I'd guess at about 20 lbs. Randall From jdombey at infoscapecorp.com Tue Dec 11 14:24:23 2007 From: jdombey at infoscapecorp.com (John Dombey) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 13:24:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] What Does It Weigh? Message-ID: <475F0007.7010201@infoscapecorp.com> Bob, I can't speak for most of the bits, but a non-overdrive transmission tips the scales at just under 75 pounds dry. I had occasion several years ago to ship a few when the UPS weight limit was 75 pounds, and in a carboard moving box, cushioned by styrofoam peanuts, the UPS scale would read right around 74 pounds - never over 74.8. It sure feels heavier when you're trying to R&R it though... John Dombey '69 TR6 >OK.....so as I get ready to pull lots of TR6 stuff, I'm wondering....what >does it weigh...in case it falls on my head! Just kidding as I'm a very >cautious person but what does it weigh? Engine? Tranny? Differential? and >Driveshaft? From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Dec 11 14:30:08 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 16:30:08 EST Subject: [TR] What Does It Weigh? Message-ID: In a message dated 12/11/2007 1:53:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: OK.....so as I get ready to pull lots of TR6 stuff, I'm > wondering....what > does it weigh...in case it falls on my head! Just kidding as > I'm a very > cautious person but what does it weigh? Engine? Tranny? > Differential? and > Driveshaft? I happened to have 2 TR6 driveshafts sitting around (both with u-joints and flanges on both ends) the one with balance weights on it weighs 13 lbs 8 oz the one without balance weights on it weighs 13 lbs 4 oz they both felt like 20 lbs while i was carrying then to the scales, though I just happened to have a J-overdrive sitting on the bench next to the shipping scales - good thing i didn't have to carry it anywhere - it weighs 34 lbs 10 oz Cheers, Jack Mc **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From dkspence at telus.net Tue Dec 11 14:30:59 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 14:30:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vibration In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01D1D3E0-D76F-467C-8B3C-B51FC6946162@telus.net> Belt separation on a tire? From BearTranserv at aol.com Tue Dec 11 16:38:47 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 18:38:47 EST Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts Message-ID: In a message dated 12/7/2007 2:00:05 PM Mountain Standard Time, anabil007 at comcast.net writes: Bob........hitting 60 on Sunday! Is that age, temperature, or golf score? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Dec 11 16:55:22 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 23:55:22 -0000 Subject: [TR] Genealogy request Message-ID: <03ad01c83c51$4b357030$0201a8c0@Bevan> Many thanks to those who contacted me off list following my recent request for help for Nick Black. I had an email from Nick today. In it, he informs me that contrary to his long-held belief that his half-sister emigrated to the U.S. as a child, it never came to pass. While emigration was certainly the urgent intention of her mother after her divorce from John Black, the daughter died at an early age in the UK. Thanks again guys for your replies. Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Dec 11 16:55:13 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 18:55:13 EST Subject: [TR] eBay Histeria Message-ID: Folks, I believe I just witnessed an original Lucas battery suitable for a TR6 go for over $1,100 in an auction on eBay. I suppose it is dry charged so it may last a few years once charged, but WHY? If anyone can answer that question I have an original tar top Lucas, never filled, suitable for the small Triumphs ready for auction. In Dis-Believe, Darrell Floyd VTR Chief Judge of Concours **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Dec 11 17:06:02 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 19:06:02 EST Subject: [TR] eBay Histeria Message-ID: In a message dated 12/11/2007 6:55:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: I believe I just witnessed an original Lucas battery suitable for a TR6 go for over $1,100 in an auction on eBay. I suppose it is dry charged so it may last a few years once charged, but WHY? If anyone can answer that question I have an original tar top Lucas, never filled, suitable for the small Triumphs ready for auction. This auction, and the buyer, have been discussed at length on the 6-pack forum. This particular buyer has a history of paying enormous, foolish prices for supposedly NOS items - from sellers in or not far from CT - many from sellers with ebay ids following a format of (color)TR6. I'm not usually a conspiracy theorist, but in this case its hard not to suspect a shill bidding scheme where a buyer runs up the price in collusion with a seller who then sends a "2nd chance" offer to the runner up bidders. Cheers, Jack Mc **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Dec 11 18:12:27 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 20:12:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002801c83c5c$12263210$210110ac@bobspc> Not temperature.........and I always hit 60 when playing golf.....usually about the 14th or 15th hole........so I guess that leaves age! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection HYPERLINK "http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/"http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _____ From: BearTranserv at aol.com [mailto:BearTranserv at aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 6:39 PM To: anabil007 at comcast.net; frede.thomas2 at verizon.net; kthompson at whoi.edu; 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Sway Bar Custom Mounts In a message dated 12/7/2007 2:00:05 PM Mountain Standard Time, anabil007 at comcast.net writes: Bob........hitting 60 on Sunday! Is that age, temperature, or golf score? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay _____ See AOL's HYPERLINK "http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004" \ntop rated recipes and HYPERLINK "http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aoltop00030000000003" \neasy ways to stay in shape for winter. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007 2:51 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007 2:51 PM From jmitch at snet.net Tue Dec 11 19:12:15 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 21:12:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph In-Reply-To: <475EFFA0.9050603@swbell.net> References: <475EFFA0.9050603@swbell.net> Message-ID: <475F437F.5080204@snet.net> I've always wondered about the exhaust hanger that connects to the transmission on overdrive cars. It's just a metal hangar with no rubber isolation and it's bolted to the rear of the overdrive. Has anyone tried anything to isolate the exhaust from metal on metal contact with the transmission? I'm wondering if it would cut some of the vibration felt at the shifter. John Mitchell 76TR6 Rick Norris wrote: > This list is a great deal like an encounter group except I feel no > better learning that someone else is suffering the same problem as I! > > I am hoping my drive shaft will return from being balanced this week and > that will be the end of my 6's vibration(s) which showed up after > u-joint replacement. Last week, the mechanic found a exhaust pipe hanger > secured to the body without the typical rubber insulator/isolator > causing a pretty nasty vibration beginning at 50mph. Correcting that > left a vibration that is heard more than felt but not until nearing > 70mph. The hope is that balancing the shaft will solve that; the fear is > that it won't and a bearing may be at issue. We'll see, hopefully later > this week! This may be my only Christmas present!! > > Rick Norris From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Dec 11 20:25:08 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 22:25:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] eBay Histeria Message-ID: <000001c83c6e$99f63de0$210110ac@bobspc> Whoa..........my eBay ID is YellowTR6 and I'm in CT.......don't go thinking that's me.........I did a bunch of TR6 auctions in the fall and there was only 1 second chance offer. And that's because the seller couldn't get the tonneau to fit so I took it back. Geez.....I wish I had the battery to sell instead of him! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of McGaheyRx at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 7:06 PM To: TR250Driver at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] eBay Histeria In a message dated 12/11/2007 6:55:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: I believe I just witnessed an original Lucas battery suitable for a TR6 go for over $1,100 in an auction on eBay. I suppose it is dry charged so it may last a few years once charged, but WHY? If anyone can answer that question I have an original tar top Lucas, never filled, suitable for the small Triumphs ready for auction. This auction, and the buyer, have been discussed at length on the 6-pack forum. This particular buyer has a history of paying enormous, foolish prices for supposedly NOS items - from sellers in or not far from CT - many from sellers with ebay ids following a format of (color)TR6. I'm not usually a conspiracy theorist, but in this case its hard not to suspect a shill bidding scheme where a buyer runs up the price in collusion with a seller who then sends a "2nd chance" offer to the runner up bidders. Cheers, Jack Mc **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007 2:51 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007 2:51 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007 2:51 PM From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Dec 11 21:17:41 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 23:17:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] eBay Histeria In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CA0A8D1224994A-DFC-38B8@webmail-mf12.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: TR250Driver at aol.com Folks, I believe I just witnessed an original Lucas battery suitable for a TR6 go for over $1,100 in an auction on eBay. I suppose it is dry charged so it may last a few years once charged, but WHY? If anyone can answer that question I have an original tar top Lucas, never filled, suitable for the small Triumphs ready for auction. ==AM== Nowadays, it wouldn't surprise me to find out it was a bit of a con as Jack hinted at. Regardless, it reminds me of the short-lived hysteria on eBay several years ago over NOS and even USED Lucas sealed beam headlamp bulbs. If only I could have gotten in on some of THAT action.... ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 12 02:05:40 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 09:05:40 -0000 Subject: [TR] eBay Histeria References: Message-ID: <041c01c83c9e$2b655660$0201a8c0@Bevan> A fool and his/her money are soon parted. > I believe I just witnessed an original Lucas battery suitable for a TR6 go > for over $1,100 in an auction on eBay. Jonmac From nwolf at u.washington.edu Wed Dec 12 10:06:58 2007 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 09:06:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Remuddled TR4 Message-ID: This eBay car has some interesting features - Some good, some bad. Check out the rear bumper, from a TR6. Not perfect, but it fits better than I would have expected! Can't say the same for the overriders... or those door caps... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150194548736 -Nick Wolf '64-ish TR4 (with original rear bumper) Vancouver, BC From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Dec 11 17:50:41 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 19:50:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] eBay Histeria In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200712111950.41866.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 11 December 2007 06:55 pm, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > Folks, > I believe I just witnessed an original Lucas battery suitable for a TR6 go > for over $1,100 in an auction on eBay. I suppose it is dry charged so it > may last a few years once charged, but WHY? If anyone can answer that > question I have an original tar top Lucas, never filled, suitable for the > small Triumphs ready for auction. > In Dis-Believe, > Darrell Floyd > VTR Chief Judge of Concours > Darrell, A few weeks ago I saw a Lucas NOS TR4/4A/250/5 rear lens (amber/red) go for over $300. I couldnt believe my eyes. This is a plastic lens and repros are about 20 bucks or so. Now one doesnt see the amber/red lenses that often but 300 + bucks? But I would have to agree 1000 bucks for a battery that is at best just average in power is a bit over the top. A very good glass mat no maintenance battery goes from anywhere 125 to 200$ and will last at least 7 years if maintained on a tender during the off-season. I installed Exide Orbital and they turn over those old lucas starters real nice. A bit on the heavy side though. As far as I know you dont get marks off based on the battery type correct? Bob From flashtr3 at cox.net Wed Dec 12 10:58:55 2007 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 09:58:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] Timining Chain Seal Message-ID: <005c01c83ce8$a9daff00$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Tom, I received the seal you sent, and it looks like it is going to be far superior The original OEM seal with the rubber/leather should last a lot longer then the aftermarket seals being sold by the "big three" suppliers. I am enclosing a check for $30.00. Thanks again & see you in Triumphest next year? From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Wed Dec 12 11:13:49 2007 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 10:13:49 -0800 (GMT-08:00) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 402 Message-ID: <1897417.1197483229313.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Dear Listers, Just got back from a screening of the soon-to-be-realeased Chipmonk film at Fox. The lead character, Dave, is a somewhat slacker misic writer who lives in a cute little Hollywood bungalow complex, likes the girl next door and drives ............. a tired, but cheerful red TR4 with a primered door ........... kudos ti the studio for not making any British car negative subplots or comments. Worked for me - film was cute and not as bad as I had imagined. Best, Rick Feibusch British Car Network Venice Beach. CA From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 12 12:10:23 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 19:10:23 -0000 Subject: [TR] A living testament :) Message-ID: <044c01c83cf2$a5e37a80$0201a8c0@Bevan> As it grew dark tonight, I found myself travelling home through a quiet village close to Birmingham in the UK. Waiting at the somewhat long red light, I noticed the building alongside was a fine example of old English house-building with an open timber frame and ancient bricks as an infill to the whole. I noted with interest that along the eaves of the roof, the owners had mounted a number of small imitation Christmas trees in wall brackets that were angled outwards at about 45 deg. Moreover, each tree was adorned with very small white lights that oddly looked a little dim. The traffic lights went from red to green and back to red as the queue of cars moved slowly forwards and as I halted for the second time, I was directly outside the imposing oak front door. Peering up at the house to double-check if the Christmas Tree lights really were as dim as they appeared, my attention was drawn to a circular blue plaque above the door on which was written in small white letters: "Birthplace of Joseph Lucas. Automotive and Marine Lighting Engineer" Honest! Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From motorcarriage at charter.net Wed Dec 12 12:30:59 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 14:30:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] A living testament :) References: <044c01c83cf2$a5e37a80$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <005e01c83cf5$868bc4a0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Hi Jonmac, I know of the circular blue plaques you mention. They're put up by the Birmingham Civic Society. There is one on one of the factory buildings that described him as being a "Lamp and Oil Dealer" and that he was born on Carver Street. Does that street sound familiar. How about getting some pics sometime? Cheers, Wayne Lee 58 TR3 64 TR4 75 TR6 Lola T598 > As it grew dark tonight, I found myself travelling home through a quiet > village close to Birmingham > in the UK. > Waiting at the somewhat long red light, I noticed the building alongside > was a fine example of old > English house-building with an open timber frame and ancient bricks as an > infill to the whole. I > noted with interest that along the eaves of the roof, the owners had > mounted a number of small > imitation Christmas trees in wall brackets that were angled outwards at > about 45 deg. Moreover, each > tree was adorned with very small white lights that oddly looked a little > dim. > The traffic lights went from red to green and back to red as the queue of > cars moved slowly forwards > and as I halted for the second time, I was directly outside the imposing > oak front door. Peering up > at the house to double-check if the Christmas Tree lights really were as > dim as they appeared, my > attention was drawn to a circular blue plaque above the door on which was > written in small white > letters: > > "Birthplace of Joseph Lucas. Automotive and Marine Lighting Engineer" > > Honest! > > Jonmac > > http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Dec 12 13:47:45 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 15:47:45 EST Subject: [TR] A living testament :) Message-ID: In a message dated 12/12/2007 1:10:08 PM Central Standard Time, standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: > Peering up at the house to double-check if the Christmas Tree lights really > were as dim as they appeared, my attention was drawn to a circular blue > plaque above the door on which was written in small white letters: > > "Birthplace of Joseph Lucas. Automotive and Marine Lighting Engineer" > > Honest! > And it has yet to burn. See! The rumors are unfounded! Dave From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Dec 12 14:28:03 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 16:28:03 EST Subject: [TR] re Shimmy at 50 - now: exhst mount Message-ID: I believe the design is so manifold and down pipe, and mid-pipe, 'become one with the engine'.. ie; engine and tranny rotates under torque, and manifold, downpipe, and mid-pipe match movement. If they weren't fixed together solidly like this (manifold to tranny mount) this you'd get damaging 'flexing' among the in-between pieces. regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 I've always wondered about the exhaust hanger that connects to the transmission on overdrive cars. It's just a metal hangar with no rubber isolation and it's bolted to the rear of the overdrive. Has anyone tried anything to isolate the exhaust from metal on metal contact with the transmission? I'm wondering if it would cut some of the vibration felt at the shifter. John Mitchell 76TR6 ************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 12 14:54:55 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 21:54:55 -0000 Subject: [TR] TRIUMPH TRANS-AMERICAN Charity Drive 2009 EXCITING NEWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Message-ID: <048701c83d09$a26c36a0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Hey, Everyone Have we got something to talk about! The Macartney Charitable Trust will soon be assuming ownership of a most generously donated and professionally restored Triumph Spitfire. There'll be lots more on that in due course. To learn a bit more, go to the website, click on the "Work's Cars" tab and bring yourself up to date. For those who haven't seen TTACD 2009 yet, go have a look-see too! Sign up to be kept up-to-date about developments almost as they occur - and the 'Something to make you smile' page might do just that. Cheers, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Dec 12 15:16:22 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 17:16:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Remuddled TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CA0B23C374A97B-ABC-6B6D@WEBMAIL-DC09.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: nwolf at u.washington.edu This eBay car has some interesting features - Some good, some bad. Check out the rear bumper, from a TR6. Not perfect, but it fits better than I would have expected! Can't say the same for the overriders... or those door caps... ==AM== To each, his (her) own, I say, but I've never understood why someone would want a top like the one pictured. Sure, these cars are supposed to be driven top down, but there are times when the top is up. Given that, I've always liked the fact that these cars had such relatively good visibility to the rear due to the large quarter windows in the tops as well as the center window. (You early TR2 owners with original-style tops can ignore this mini-rant. ;-) ) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From pethier at comcast.net Wed Dec 12 19:09:05 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 02:09:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] Remuddled TR4 Message-ID: <121320070209.1473.4760944100051410000005C122058860149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > To each, his (her) own, I say, but I've never understood why someone > would want a top like the one pictured. Sure, these cars are supposed > to be driven top down, but there are times when the top is up. Given > that, I've always liked the fact that these cars had such relatively > good visibility to the rear due to the large quarter windows in the > tops as well as the center window. (You early TR2 owners with > original-style tops can ignore this mini-rant. ;-) ) Yes, You can even buy a quarter-light top for a Miata. One of our autocrossers has one. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Dec 12 20:03:47 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 22:03:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] eBay Madness, part duex Message-ID: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Having seen the eBay madness messages, I got to thinking ... what do I have that is so rare, so precious, so unique that no one would mind bidding a fortune for it ... needless to say, I came up empty handed. Then I recalled that in the back of the garage, buried with all my other treasures were some parts that were in the boot of the TR6 when I bought it. Yes ... there it was, just the kind of thing that would make some salivate for ... a genuine Unipart Oil Filter, still in its rather battered box, but the real McCoy nevertheless. It just shouted out to me ... here I am, use me to make your fortune ... and there it was, carefully hand made by English artisans slaving over the hot fires of industry in Birmingham and Coventry, crafted to an exquisite jewel like perfection of folded pleats of non-bleached, high quality velour of the quality only used by the Queen to write on, and all assembled in a lightweight, scintillating aluminium capped splendor. I'm hoping to raise somewhere between one and two grand for this unique trophy class item, and I buy anyone on the list a beer when Jonmac makes it to Detroit using my windfall. Given how much I expect to make, I thought largess was needed, so half the money will go to the American Cancer Society (joking apart, a cause very near to my heart). If you wish, you can add to the mirth by asking wonderfully strange questions that might be seen in a Sotheby's auction ... and I'll post all the replies to the eBay page. Just is case you're interested, the item number is 190183325605 ... And, if this bloody thing does attract a single bid, it will only prove that there are some really strange people out there with much more money than sense! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Dec 12 20:40:04 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 22:40:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] eBay Madness, part duex References: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <999869834-1197516905-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1741284920-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <003301c83d39$d9a68be0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Thanks ... I'll keep you posted on what transpires ... ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Tony Gordon" Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 10:33 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] eBay Madness, part duex > Too funny, I have been watching the stupidity on e-bay and you are bound > for riches. Send us the auction numbers so we monitor the progress and ger > the nickster's attention. > > Too funny, wish I had something original in its NOS package, I'd join you. > > Lou > > > -----Original Message----- > From: "Tony Gordon" > > Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 22:03:47 > To:"TR list" , "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: [6pack] eBay Madness, part duex > > > Having seen the eBay madness messages, I got to thinking ... what do I > have > that is so rare, so precious, so unique that no one would mind bidding a > fortune for it ... needless to say, I came up empty handed. Then I > recalled > that in the back of the garage, buried with all my other treasures were > some > parts that were in the boot of the TR6 when I bought it. > > Yes ... there it was, just the kind of thing that would make some salivate > for > ... a genuine Unipart Oil Filter, still in its rather battered box, but > the > real McCoy nevertheless. It just shouted out to me ... here I am, use me > to > make your fortune ... and there it was, carefully hand made by English > artisans slaving over the hot fires of industry in Birmingham and > Coventry, > crafted to an exquisite jewel like perfection of folded pleats of > non-bleached, high quality velour of the quality only used by the Queen to > write on, and all assembled in a lightweight, scintillating aluminium > capped > splendor. > > I'm hoping to raise somewhere between one and two grand for this unique > trophy > class item, and I buy anyone on the list a beer when Jonmac makes it to > Detroit using my windfall. Given how much I expect to make, I thought > largess > was needed, so half the money will go to the American Cancer Society > (joking > apart, a cause very near to my heart). > > If you wish, you can add to the mirth by asking wonderfully strange > questions > that might be seen in a Sotheby's auction ... and I'll post all the > replies to > the eBay page. Just is case you're interested, the item number is > 190183325605 ... > > And, if this bloody thing does attract a single bid, it will only prove > that > there are some really strange people out there with much more money than > sense! From dorpaul at negia.net Wed Dec 12 20:51:39 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 22:51:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] dried brake fluid? Message-ID: <00ac01c83d3b$7915dd60$c194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Although the labels of most spray brake cleaners said to cover rubber parts and avoid contact with rubber the 3M Spray Brake Cleaner did not say this on the back of the can, so I bought this brand. While I sprayed it in the metal brake lines and then blew them out with a air compressor (equipped with a filter to remove water). However, I did not spray it into the caliper units themselves. I didn't do this for fear it might contaminate the rubber. That is my question: should I? Of course, the Dot 4 Brake Fluid (which was new at the time, not been driven, but dried within the lines since my system had numerous leaks several years ago, it is this dried bake fluid that I seek to remove. I fear a buildup of this crud. I hope that by spraying it through the metal lines it has helped to clean those lines. The question remains: should I spray this 3m Brake Cleaner into the caliper units? I've also got the same question in regard to the master and slave cylinders? I am also concerned about their rubber parts. How much brake fluid crusty crud is down within them? Is this 'crud' (only 1-2 year old brake fluid most of it dried) is this stuff that objectionable? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From kkealty at rogers.com Wed Dec 12 21:59:18 2007 From: kkealty at rogers.com (KEVIN KEALTY) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 23:59:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Bulk] eBay Madness, part duex In-Reply-To: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <005801c83d44$eb14f9b0$c13eed10$@com> Excellent answer! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+kkealty=rogers.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+kkealty=rogers.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Gordon Sent: December-12-07 10:04 PM To: TR list; 6pack Subject: [Bulk] [TR] eBay Madness, part duex ... If you wish, you can add to the mirth by asking wonderfully strange questions that might be seen in a Sotheby's auction ... and I'll post all the replies to the eBay page. Just is case you're interested, the item number is 190183325605 ... From supertr6 at earthlink.net Thu Dec 13 05:32:23 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 07:32:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] eBay Madness, part duex In-Reply-To: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <47612657.9090609@earthlink.net> Tony, Nice write up! Question sent! ;-) Joe Tony Gordon wrote: > Having seen the eBay madness messages, I got to thinking ... what do I have > that is so rare, so precious, so unique that no one would mind bidding a > fortune for it ... needless to say, I came up empty handed. Then I recalled > that in the back of the garage, buried with all my other treasures were some > parts that were in the boot of the TR6 when I bought it. > > Yes ... there it was, just the kind of thing that would make some salivate for > ... a genuine Unipart Oil Filter, still in its rather battered box, but the > real McCoy nevertheless. It just shouted out to me ... here I am, use me to > make your fortune ... and there it was, carefully hand made by English > artisans slaving over the hot fires of industry in Birmingham and Coventry, > crafted to an exquisite jewel like perfection of folded pleats of > non-bleached, high quality velour of the quality only used by the Queen to > write on, and all assembled in a lightweight, scintillating aluminium capped > splendor. > > I'm hoping to raise somewhere between one and two grand for this unique trophy > class item, and I buy anyone on the list a beer when Jonmac makes it to > Detroit using my windfall. Given how much I expect to make, I thought largess > was needed, so half the money will go to the American Cancer Society (joking > apart, a cause very near to my heart). > > If you wish, you can add to the mirth by asking wonderfully strange questions > that might be seen in a Sotheby's auction ... and I'll post all the replies to > the eBay page. Just is case you're interested, the item number is > 190183325605 ... > > And, if this bloody thing does attract a single bid, it will only prove that > there are some really strange people out there with much more money than > sense! > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************************************** > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From fwildi at yahoo.com Thu Dec 13 07:31:18 2007 From: fwildi at yahoo.com (francois wildi) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 06:31:18 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] original right hand drive oew TR3A for sale in Switzerland Message-ID: <576565.62566.qm@web36805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello list, It been a very long time I have not written nor read anything on the list. Too much work, time with my kids and farming duties (believe it or not) have kept me from enjoying my little darling for all the last years. 180km in 4 years! Now I am losing heart because it is too sad to see it any never have time to take it for a ride and install the many performance parts that I have for it. So I'm selling the complete package. Take a look at http://obswww.unige.ch/~fwildi/cars/tr3a/ Make offers Francois Wildi ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From m.newhart at comcast.net Thu Dec 13 08:52:06 2007 From: m.newhart at comcast.net (m.newhart at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 15:52:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR 4A body roll Message-ID: <121320071552.29312.476155250007EEEC0000728022070216339B9D0E08990A02D203@comcast.net> When I give my solid axle TR4A a good stomp on the gas petal, It feels like the body is rolling . How can I correct this? Thanks Mike Newhart From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Dec 13 09:22:25 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 11:22:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] dried brake fluid? In-Reply-To: <00ac01c83d3b$7915dd60$c194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00ac01c83d3b$7915dd60$c194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: > helped to clean those lines. The question remains: should I spray this 3m> Brake Cleaner into the caliper units? As Aristotle would say: Brake cleaner is used to clean brakes. Calipers are brakes. Therefore, brake cleaner is used to clean calipers. John From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Dec 13 10:08:49 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 12:08:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 4A body roll In-Reply-To: <121320071552.29312.476155250007EEEC0000728022070216339B9D0E08990A02D203@comcast.net> References: <121320071552.29312.476155250007EEEC0000728022070216339B9D0E08990A02D203@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CA0BC1F6BD458A-9D0-1B1@MBLK-M11.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: m.newhart at comcast.net When I give my solid axle TR4A a good stomp on the gas petal, It feels like the body is rolling . How can I correct this? Thanks Mike Newhart ==AM== Mike, what you describe almost sounds as if the axle is loose on the spring(s), or a spring is broken, or perhaps a spring mount is broken. I'd want to check everything for tightness and, in the case of any spring mounts or nearby chassis bits, structural integrity (i.e., rust). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Dec 13 10:14:35 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 10:14:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 4A body roll In-Reply-To: <121320071552.29312.476155250007EEEC0000728022070216339B9D0E08990A02D203@comcast.net> References: <121320071552.29312.476155250007EEEC0000728022070216339B9D0E08990A02D203@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4761687B.6010706@tscusa.org> m.newhart at comcast.net wrote: > When I give my solid axle TR4A a good stomp on the gas petal, It feels like the body is rolling . How can I correct this? Thanks Mike Newhart > Rolling to which side? And how severe is it? Triumphs normally provide 90% of the torque to the right rear wheel which may feel like the body is rolling. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Dec 13 11:29:54 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 13:29:54 EST Subject: [TR] original right hand drive oew TR3A for sale in Switzerland Message-ID: In a message dated 12/13/2007 8:31:45 AM Central Standard Time, fwildi at yahoo.com writes: > Too much work, time with my kids and farming duties (believe it or > not) have kept me from enjoying my little darling for all the last > years. 180km in 4 years! > Now I am losing heart because it is too sad to see it any never have > time to take it for a ride and install the many performance parts > that I have for it. So I'm selling the complete package. > > Sorry to see you go. But it looks like these cars will be around for a long time so when your life situation changes you will likely find something similar when you are ready. We will probably still be here. Bon chance. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Dec 13 12:13:18 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 11:13:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR 4A body roll In-Reply-To: <121320071552.29312.476155250007EEEC0000728022070216339B9D0E08990A02D203@comcast.net> References: <121320071552.29312.476155250007EEEC0000728022070216339B9D0E08990A02D203@comcast.net> Message-ID: <01ee01c83dbc$38a0d6f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > When I give my solid axle TR4A a good stomp on the gas > petal, It feels like the body is rolling . How can I > correct this? In addition to the good suggestions already offered, I'd like to add that some roll is to be expected. The same torque that twists the crankshaft one way also tries to twist the block the other way, etc. So the question becomes whether your roll is excessive, and why. Randall From tdskip at yahoo.com Thu Dec 13 13:29:39 2007 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 12:29:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR 4A body roll Message-ID: <90811.17280.qm@web55607.mail.re4.yahoo.com> "When I give my solid axle TR4A a good stomp on the gas petal, It feels like the body is rolling . How can I correct this? Thanks Mike Newhart" Mike - I had the same behavior and discovered that my rear dampers were toast AND on the drivers side damper/link fitting had worn the assembly fitting into an oval shape thus allowing strange movement. That did not completely cure it, but it might be worth a look. From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Dec 13 13:45:39 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 15:45:39 EST Subject: [TR] eBay Histeria Message-ID: In a message dated 12/12/2007 12:19:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: As far as I know you dont get marks off based on the battery type correct? Bob Bob, That would be a correct statement for Concours Judging at TRA, VTR and 6-PACK. I am going to stick my neck out and say that even the Jaguar guys don't do that. Now Pebble Beach, I have not a clue but I really Doubt IT! That being said it is kind of cool to show with a period replica or even an original battery. I have done that. I had one of the Red Lucas battery's for the 81 TR7 but it only lasted a few years. Like I said I have the original Lucas tar top, dry charged and suitable for an early Spitfire. " If you want it, Here it is, Come and get it. UMM UMM UMM UMM, Make you mind up Fast. But you better hurry cause it's going Fast." "A Fool and his Money" (Beatles) Darrell **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Dec 13 14:18:41 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 13:18:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] eBay Histeria In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <020601c83dcd$bc893dc0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> >> As far as I know you dont get marks off based on the battery >> type correct? > That would be a correct statement for Concours Judging at > TRA, VTR and > 6-PACK. OTOH, some people might be interested in restoring a car for reasons other than winning an award. Not that I'm interested in either one, but I can see the attraction. Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Dec 13 14:44:41 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 15:44:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] eBay Histeria References: Message-ID: <001501c83dd1$5fa24b70$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > " If you want it, Here it is, Come and get it. UMM UMM UMM UMM, Make you > mind up Fast. But you better hurry cause it's going Fast." "A Fool and > his > Money" (Beatles) > > Darrell Well, I always thought this was a Badfinger song, but I just discovered that Paul McCartney wrote it for the movie "The Magic Christian." He recorded a demo in which he sang all the parts and played all the instruments, gave it to Badfinger and told them to record it exactly the way it sounded, which they did, and it became a big hit. Paul's original demo version was released, as a Beatles song, on the Beatles Anthology 3 CD, although the Beatles never actually recorded it together. The song was called "Come and get it", by the way. As for LBC content, there was a really nice BRG GT6 featured as a getaway car on BBC America's show "Life on Mars" on Tuesday night. Did anybody see it? Mike From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Dec 13 15:30:12 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 15:30:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] A living testament :) In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF3564442@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <044c01c83cf2$a5e37a80$0201a8c0@Bevan> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF1C58A3A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <000b01c83dbc$20ff08f0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF3564442@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <4761B274.2030207@tscusa.org> Foster, Stan wrote: >> Chilling to "ice cold" retards the release of aromas, and hides the taste. >> Now why would you do that? >> > > Ed, you would do that if your beer was made with fermented cereals like rice > and cornflakes and where the list of preservatives is longer than the list of > the required ingredients for beer (water, malted barley or malted wheat, hops > and yeast). eg most of the popular American beers from Miller, Bud, Coors etc) > have to be chilled to make them palatable. > > > > Luckily today there is excellent beer available in the US from many > microbreweries but Americans have been pre-programmed to chill the heck out of > beer and by comparison English beer seems warm although I have observed that > over the years there is a lot more chilled lager consumed in the UK than I > remember from my misspent youth. > > As you rightly point out, English beer, particularly the bitters, pale ales > and IPA's are typically consumed at around 55 degrees F with the stronger > beers like barley wines usually at room temp. > > Yum. > > Stan (Former Englishman and part time beer snob) > "I brew, therefore ... I am" "Worts this all about??" Are you guys ever off base on this. Chilling beer is for one primary reason - preservation. When beer gets warm it increases oxidation which affects flavor and may allow it to spoil quickly, specially when exposed to oxygen. Most chilled beers have an shelf life of 90 days which is what the producer believes is the best time to consume and retain the full (and very marginal range) flavors. Such beers are typically known as Bohemian (or Plzner) beers fermented with lagering yeasts so they can ferment cold, extending the quality and life of flavors in the ingredients. These beers are seldom "aged" more than a few months before being consumed. Lager beers use lagering yeast (bottom zymosis) which prefer to do their work in cooler areas over a longer period of time and will in fact stay alive to almost freezing, while ale yeasts (top zymosis) prefer a bit warmer temperature to work properly and will die off in very cold or hot temperatures, producing very bad flavors in the beer. -- Glenn A. Merrell Hobby Zymergist & Brewer of quality Ales Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Dec 13 15:36:56 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 17:36:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Glenn Merrell & Hemmings Message-ID: <001e01c83dd8$ac534df0$210110ac@bobspc> Hey guys..... Our own Glenn Merrell has made Hemmings' Weekly Email and their web site. Check it out http://tinyurl.com/2m94x8 Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1182 - Release Date: 12/12/2007 11:29 AM From triumphstag at gmail.com Thu Dec 13 15:52:47 2007 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 14:52:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] head reset foam for late TR6, Spit and Stag Message-ID: Just curious if anyone can verify if the later TR6 head rest foam is the same for the Mk2 Triumph Stag. If so are they available state side? One vendor on Ebay has listed some to fit all three models. Thanks, Sujit From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Dec 13 16:09:22 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 23:09:22 -0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Glenn Merrell & Hemmings References: <001e01c83dd8$ac534df0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <072f01c83ddd$32f25c30$0201a8c0@Bevan> 'Sright, Bob! And if you keep your eyes peeled to Hemmings (and a few other publications of that ilk) you'll see a lot more about Glenn (and maybe in the coming months. By the way for those who don't yet know, the Macartney Charitable Trust this week acquired a 1978 UK spec 1500 Spitfire as a 'no strings attached' donation with which to raise funds. This car went through a US$50,000+ professional rebuild less than five years ago, is a national concours winner in the UK - and, like the Stag. we're going to raffle it. The Final Draw will be at the end of the Charity Drive at Triumphest/VTR National whereby the Stag will go to a lucky US/Canada winner and the Spitty will go to someone in the UK. Why not sign up to the 'Keep Informed' email facility on www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk ? It's being added to almost daily. Cheers, Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 10:36 PM Subject: [6pack] Glenn Merrell & Hemmings > Hey guys..... Our own Glenn Merrell has made Hemmings' Weekly Email and > their web site. Check it out http://tinyurl.com/2m94x8 > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1182 - Release Date: 12/12/2007 > 11:29 AM > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Dec 13 16:22:04 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 18:22:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] eBay Madness, part duex References: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <47612657.9090609@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <00a401c83dde$f8f048b0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> My entire family is now convinced the that the entire 6-Pack and TR Lists are populated by folks as whacky as me ... and have joined in the fun. My son added the Queen and Prince Charles photos. The messages I have got off the list have been hilarious (well, to me anyway). The Snow Cat, Nigerian business man and the Faberge questions are priceless! Have a look at the ongoing saga on eBay item # 190183325605 ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: Ted To: Joe Burlein Cc: Tony Gordon ; TR list ; 6pack Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 2:32 PM Subject: Re: [TR] eBay Madness, part duex That's a pretty nice French translation, if that's babblefish or another online translation engine, it's not bad at all ... C'est viritable un bijou de multinational dans la couronne de l'iquipement original partie... la bonte a igalement la ligende passionnante "filtre d'huile". Je sais que ceci excitera mes acheteurs internationaux. On Dec 13, 2007 7:32 AM, Joe Burlein wrote: Tony, Nice write up! Question sent! ;-) Joe Tony Gordon wrote: > Having seen the eBay madness messages, I got to thinking ... what do I have > that is so rare, so precious, so unique that no one would mind bidding a > fortune for it ... needless to say, I came up empty handed. Then I recalled > that in the back of the garage, buried with all my other treasures were some > parts that were in the boot of the TR6 when I bought it. > > Yes ... there it was, just the kind of thing that would make some salivate for > ... a genuine Unipart Oil Filter, still in its rather battered box, but the > real McCoy nevertheless. It just shouted out to me ... here I am, use me to > make your fortune ... and there it was, carefully hand made by English > artisans slaving over the hot fires of industry in Birmingham and Coventry, > crafted to an exquisite jewel like perfection of folded pleats of > non-bleached, high quality velour of the quality only used by the Queen to > write on, and all assembled in a lightweight, scintillating aluminium capped > splendor. > > I'm hoping to raise somewhere between one and two grand for this unique trophy > class item, and I buy anyone on the list a beer when Jonmac makes it to > Detroit using my windfall. Given how much I expect to make, I thought largess > was needed, so half the money will go to the American Cancer Society (joking > apart, a cause very near to my heart). > > If you wish, you can add to the mirth by asking wonderfully strange questions > that might be seen in a Sotheby's auction ... and I'll post all the replies to > the eBay page. Just is case you're interested, the item number is > 190183325605 ... From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Dec 13 16:29:07 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 18:29:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] dried brake fluid, swishing it out first! Message-ID: <00d501c83ddf$f6a3f240$c194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, I am embarrassed to say this, but the TR3A hasn't moved a foot since I rebuilt the brakes several years ago. Of course, I've been rebuilding everything else about it since that time! When I rebuilt the brakes, I split the halves, replacing the O-ring, cleaning everything, and replacing all rubber parts, and retorquing everything. I now have forgotten the specs for the torque (BTW: could someone remind me) on the (smaller vs. larger bolts.) The caliper brakes worked fine when tested after assembly with all new lines and new master cylinders. Unfortunatley, I didn't know enough about different types of flares and though I filled the brake and clutch systems full of DOT 4 brake fluid (good enuf for me). Anyway, many of my fittings leaked, however the calipers showed all the rubber to be working and held tight on the rotors (for awhile). I tried not to let my failure with the brakes halt my progress, so I moved onto body work (or something). Now, two years later the tank has drained of all DOT 4. Proably air got to many of my leaking flaring attempts. This week one of the .75 bore rear hydralic cylinders aluminum broke off at the bleed niple. Upon dissecting this I saw that although it had new rubber washers and sanded bore ( I rebuilt these too) , that it also had dried new brake fluid. Realizing that the lines might be like this I individually took them apart and blew them out with my compressor(100psi). The compressor has a new filter to remove oil and water. I then blasted 3MT High Power Brake Cleaner into each line (letting it sit overnight in the 2 year old steel brake lines.) 3m's website says this about it: "A high delivery non-chlorinated, general-purpose degreaser. Designed to remove oil, grease, brake fluid and other contaminants from all types of brake assemblies and parts without disassembling the unit. No ozone depleting ingredients." Even with this said, I am still leary about spraying this even temporaily into the calipers, should I be? It might be ok since their off the car if I spray the calipers, then blow them with the compressor, then fill them with brake fluid then rinse out that brake fluid? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Dec 13 17:31:43 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 19:31:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] eBay Madness, part duex In-Reply-To: <00a401c83dde$f8f048b0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <00a401c83dde$f8f048b0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <200712131931.43921.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday 13 December 2007 06:22 pm, Tony Gordon wrote: > My entire family is now convinced the that the entire 6-Pack and TR Lists > are populated by folks as whacky as me ... and have joined in the fun. My > son added the Queen and Prince Charles photos. > > The messages I have got off the list have been hilarious (well, to me > anyway). The Snow Cat, Nigerian business man and the Faberge questions are > priceless! Have a look at the ongoing saga on eBay item # 190183325605 > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 Tony, If it wasnt about 20 outside I would also venure out to the parts garage to see if I could find that "part" that would have all those ebayers drooling. Just got in from a snow blow and as usual the blower would push it one way and the wind (always changing) would blow it back in my face! Oh well, down to cellar to work on a TR4 bonnet! Good luck with your auction. Bob From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Dec 13 16:47:20 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 16:47:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Glenn Merrell & Hemmings In-Reply-To: <001e01c83dd8$ac534df0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <001e01c83dd8$ac534df0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <4761C488.60700@tscusa.org> Bob Danielson wrote: > Hey guys..... Our own Glenn Merrell has made Hemmings' Weekly Email and > their web site. Check it out http://tinyurl.com/2m94x8 > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > Yeow!! Thanks for that note Bob! We'll take publicity for this great charitable cause any way we can get it! Lets see, plugs for - Triumph Trans-AmeriCan 2009 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk; - the affliction of Post Traumatic Stress Disorder; - Triumphest 2009 in San Luis Obispo California; - The Vintage Triumph Register and the National Convention 2009 coinciding with Triumphest, and ... - The Triumph Stag - comfort- styling- trunk(boot) space! - clubs volunteering to help; - We even got a plug (photo courtesy of) for triumphstag.net web site!! So how many people read the Hemmings eWeekly? Don't subscribe? have a look here http://www.hemmings.com/account/?op=add_hmnupdate_email Thank you David LaChance for the publicity!! Maybe when the charity Drive comes near your neck of the woods, you will drive/ride along with us for a while! Now all we need is for say, Road and Track, Car and Driver, Classic MotorSports to do some articles in support of this drive! Anyone have contacts there or maybe some celebrities? (Tim Suddard, are you listening?) All it takes is a phone call or an email to help. Thanks! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Dec 13 17:01:13 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 19:01:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] eBay Madness, part duex References: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71><00a401c83dde$f8f048b0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <200712131931.43921.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <00f501c83de4$71a844b0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Thanks Bob, if this sells then all of us are doomed since it will be clear that Darwinian rules don't apply! And we've got about 6" of snow currently and 25degF ... makes the trips in the garage fairly brief! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Labuz" To: Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 7:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] eBay Madness, part duex > On Thursday 13 December 2007 06:22 pm, Tony Gordon wrote: >> My entire family is now convinced the that the entire 6-Pack and TR Lists >> are populated by folks as whacky as me ... and have joined in the fun. >> My >> son added the Queen and Prince Charles photos. >> >> The messages I have got off the list have been hilarious (well, to me >> anyway). The Snow Cat, Nigerian business man and the Faberge questions >> are >> priceless! Have a look at the ongoing saga on eBay item # 190183325605 >> >> ************************************** >> Tony Gordon >> 72 TR6 > Tony, > > If it wasnt about 20 outside I would also venure out to the parts garage > to > see if I could find that "part" that would have all those ebayers > drooling. > > Just got in from a snow blow and as usual the blower would push it one way > and > the wind (always changing) would blow it back in my face! > > Oh well, down to cellar to work on a TR4 bonnet! > > Good luck with your auction. > > Bob From twakeman at razzolink.com Thu Dec 13 17:23:59 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 16:23:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] eBay Madness, part duex In-Reply-To: <200712131931.43921.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <00a401c83dde$f8f048b0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <200712131931.43921.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <4761CD1F.90201@razzolink.com> Bob Labuz wrote: > If it wasnt about 20 outside I would also venure out to the parts garage to > see if I could find that "part" that would have all those ebayers drooling. Hummm do you think a pair of genuine old stock amber glass front turn signal lenses for a TR3 would get some drooling & crazy bidding? I'm not ready to put my TR3 hard top up for sale. I think that's the rarest part I have. Of course I have motor trend Vol 1 number 1 that I could sell and I still have MacWorld volume 1 number 1. Plus a slew of 1950's & early 1960's Road & track issues for those times I want to read a review of the new MGB or the new TR4. I've been holding on to those in the hope that some day they might be of interest to hobbyists. TeriAnn From FGFO1 at aol.com Thu Dec 13 17:28:35 2007 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 19:28:35 EST Subject: [TR] parts return Message-ID: Over the past year a couple of nice guys have helped me by loaning me some parts. I think its time to return them. but I cant remember who sent them! First parts where a pair of stone guards for me to hammer my rear fender to fit. One painted red t'other still in its wrapper. Fred T. did these come from you? And I think Mike with the black TR2 in Pasadena lent me the original TR2 grill for my machine shop. But I lost your email address. thank you both for your kindness. Frank fisher Temecula California >This outgoing message checked for virus and MG content by Norton anti virus Mg content. **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Dec 13 17:46:07 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 19:46:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wealthy or Not Message-ID: <003c01c83dea$b89456b0$340f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Well now folks if I understand a Lucas battery is worth over $1000.00, that could very possibly mean I might be a wealthy man, I wonder how much original T/R 2/3 parts could be worth such as original ash trays still in the factory box, or water pump rebuild kits in =metal Boxes"=, how about a "Triumph" 9 volt portable radio, or maybe a original Smith's rear view clock/mirrow, wow, the list can go on and on, I just think I'll not count my $$$$, possibly becasue they are not a "Lucas Battery". :) :) :) "FT" From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Dec 13 18:00:30 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 20:00:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wealthy or Not References: <003c01c83dea$b89456b0$340f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <013101c83dec$bd2cb8a0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Hey Fred, let me get my couple of grand first for my pristine oil filter ... I don't need the competition just yet (and I'll give you half of what the guy in Africa is offering if you hold off for a week! ;) ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "FRED E THOMAS" To: "triumphs" Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 7:46 PM Subject: [TR] Wealthy or Not > Well now folks if I understand a Lucas battery is worth over $1000.00, > that > could very possibly mean I might be a wealthy man, I wonder how much > original > T/R 2/3 parts could be worth such as original ash trays still in the > factory > box, or water pump rebuild kits in =metal Boxes"=, how about a "Triumph" 9 > volt portable radio, or maybe a original Smith's rear view clock/mirrow, > wow, > the list can go on and on, I just think I'll not count my $$$$, possibly > becasue they are not a "Lucas Battery". :) :) :) "FT" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Dec 13 18:04:48 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 20:04:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] parts return In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <47619060.12949.155C7F7C@localhost> On 13 Dec 2007 at 19:28, FGFO1 at aol.com wrote: > Over the past year a couple of nice guys have helped me by loaning > me some parts. I think its time to return them. but I can't > remember who sent them! I lent you the roll of $100 bills in the green rubber band. I'd like the rubber band back, if you don't mind. IIRC, it was a genuine Lucas rubber band. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tfansher at comcast.net Thu Dec 13 18:03:39 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 20:03:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wealthy or Not References: <003c01c83dea$b89456b0$340f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <004101c83ded$2acab3d0$5918e247@DCS78M81> Fred, with all the friends you made on the list and in Triumph circles, you are probably the most wealthy man I know. I'm proud to count you as my friend. I've bought parts from you and parts that you've suggested I buy. You've never stirred me wrong and I appreciated our friendship. This is not meant to start a flame for those who don't agree with me. Just in the spirit of the season and with this subject line, I thought it appropriate. Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Dec 13 18:32:43 2007 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 20:32:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Home brews In-Reply-To: <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <4761D728.5010708@tscusa.org> <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: I second the motion. The Mini Cooper group has a "BREW SWAP" at the Mini's on the Dragon event every year. It would be great to do something along these lines at the VTR convention each year. Be it a official event or just a bunch of us home brew types gathering in the hotel parking lot with some lawn chairs swapping brews and lies about our cars:). Marty > > How about we start a "Brewers Circle" at some of the shows, pass around > > some of our prize brews? > _______________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007 From cfisher at borgwarner.com Thu Dec 13 19:50:33 2007 From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 21:50:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] bushing/trunnion clearance Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD911670@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> Dear list, After pressing new bushings into the lower A-arms, (TR3) you are supposed to ream them to fit the trunnion. There was no clearance specified though, so how much do I have them reamed? I was thinking maybe .001" on a side for .002" total clearance, sound about right? Thanks, Curt Visit: CurtFisherRacing.com "When you're racing it's life. Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting." Steve McQueen ~ LeMans From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Dec 13 19:58:01 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 21:58:01 EST Subject: [TR] Anyone need a single cylinder liner 87mm? ready to install Message-ID: List, I have a short set of cylinder liners. (3) They are newly bored from 86mm to 87mm and honed. I just did about 20 something liners and have this odd lot. If you have a damaged, scored, or worn liner you want to replace....... Contact me.... N197tr4 at cs.com Or if you want to bore a set of liners to your spec, I'll tell you where to send them. Slow time for Performance Engine Shop....quick turn around from them. From ZoboHerald at aol.com Thu Dec 13 19:59:21 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 21:59:21 EST Subject: [TR] eBay Madness, part duex Message-ID: In a message dated 12/13/2007 7:24:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, twakeman at razzolink.com writes: Hummm do you think a pair of genuine old stock amber glass front turn signal lenses for a TR3 would get some drooling & crazy bidding? ==AM== Probably not, since they're really not all that rare, having been used on a host of cars during the era. Now if you had a pair of taillight lenses for a 1970 Spitfire or GT6, they'd likely get some serious bidding going! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Dec 13 20:20:20 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 22:20:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] bushing/trunnion clearance In-Reply-To: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD911670@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> Message-ID: <000001c83e00$42898510$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Not all trunnions are created equal. Mt suggestion is to take the trunnions to the machine shop and work them to fit. That's what I have done for my TR3s. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of cfisher at borgwarner.com Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 9:51 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] bushing/trunnion clearance Dear list, After pressing new bushings into the lower A-arms, (TR3) you are supposed to ream them to fit the trunnion. There was no clearance specified though, so how much do I have them reamed? I was thinking maybe .001" on a side for .002" total clearance, sound about right? Thanks, Curt Visit: CurtFisherRacing.com "When you're racing it's life. Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting." Steve McQueen ~ LeMans This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Dec 13 21:47:07 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 20:47:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] bushing/trunnion clearance In-Reply-To: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD911670@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> Message-ID: <20071214044707.DMGX20574.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > After pressing new bushings into the lower A-arms, (TR3) you > are supposed to ream them to fit the trunnion. There was no > clearance specified though, so how much do I have them > reamed? I was thinking maybe .001" on a side for .002" > total clearance, sound about right? The clearance is built into the pin diameter ... just ream them to the nominal size. 5/8" as I recall. Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Dec 13 22:43:28 2007 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 00:43:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Remuddled TR4 In-Reply-To: <121320070209.1473.4760944100051410000005C122058860149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <121320070209.1473.4760944100051410000005C122058860149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6fa72a770712132143x25eb8d0j682205ce8b6a212e@mail.gmail.com> I wonder how they open the trunk.... From patton at suscom-maine.net Thu Dec 13 23:28:34 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 01:28:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] dried brake fluid, swishing it out first! In-Reply-To: <00d501c83ddf$f6a3f240$c194df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Paul, I wouldn't spray brake cleaner into the calipers unless you have them apart for rebuilding. You've already gone above and beyond what most mechanics would do. It's time to refill the system and bleed it until fresh looking fluid appears without any bubbles. Rick Patton http://sidedrafttbi.com/ > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of Paul Dorsey > Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 6:29 PM > To: list Triumph > Subject: [TR] dried brake fluid, swishing it out first! >snip > > It might be ok since their off the car if I spray the calipers, then blow > them with the compressor, then fill them with brake fluid then > rinse out that > brake fluid? snip > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From dkspence at telus.net Fri Dec 14 02:14:01 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 02:14:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] eBay Histeria In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <61573FA9-3F61-44EB-9A7F-032D5867F448@telus.net> You can always have a battery rebuilt. Ne battery in an old case. On Dec 13, 2007, at 5:02 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Date: December 13, 2007 1:45:39 PM MST (CA) > To: yellowtr at adelphia.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] eBay Histeria > > > In a message dated 12/12/2007 12:19:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: > > As far as I know you dont get marks off based on the battery type > correct? > > Bob > > > Bob, > That would be a correct statement for Concours Judging at TRA, VTR and > 6-PACK. I am going to stick my neck out and say that even the > Jaguar guys don't > do that. Now Pebble Beach, I have not a clue but I really Doubt IT! > > That being said it is kind of cool to show with a period replica > or even an > original battery. I have done that. I had one of the Red Lucas > battery's > for the 81 TR7 but it only lasted a few years. Like I said I have > the original > Lucas tar top, dry charged and suitable for an early Spitfire. > > " If you want it, Here it is, Come and get it. UMM UMM UMM UMM, > Make you > mind up Fast. But you better hurry cause it's going Fast." "A > Fool and his > Money" (Beatles) > > Darrell From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Dec 14 06:56:28 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 08:56:28 EST Subject: [TR] eBay Histeria Message-ID: Hummm, I still have that TR7 Red Top Lucas. I might have an old TR6 Lucas too. If you want it! "Did I hear you say that there must be a catch. Would you walk away from a fool and his money?" Darrell In a message dated 12/14/2007 4:14:42 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: You can always have a battery rebuilt. Ne battery in an old case. **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From cfisher at borgwarner.com Fri Dec 14 08:39:20 2007 From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 10:39:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] bushing/trunnion clearance References: <20071214044707.DMGX20574.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD911671@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> Thanks Randall & Andrew, The machinest at work used a 5/8" reamer which gave a .001 to .002" slip fit. Cheers, Curt Visit: CurtFisherRacing.com "When you're racing it's life. Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting." Steve McQueen ~ LeMans ________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces+cfisher=borgwarner.com at autox.team.net on behalf of Randall Sent: Thu 12/13/2007 11:47 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] bushing/trunnion clearance > After pressing new bushings into the lower A-arms, (TR3) you > are supposed to ream them to fit the trunnion. There was no > clearance specified though, so how much do I have them > reamed? I was thinking maybe .001" on a side for .002" > total clearance, sound about right? The clearance is built into the pin diameter ... just ream them to the nominal size. 5/8" as I recall. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From bielings at comcast.net Fri Dec 14 10:06:54 2007 From: bielings at comcast.net (PBieling) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 12:06:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Help I'm unsprung Message-ID: <000a01c83e73$bb496650$0202a8c0@BUSINESS> The sun is shining and Moss doesn't have any leaf springs for the TR.. Anyone know were to get at least one fast. Pete Bieling From elangtr4 at aol.com Fri Dec 14 10:35:00 2007 From: elangtr4 at aol.com (elangtr4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 12:35:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] home brews (TRlist) Message-ID: <8CA0C8EC98FD803-8B8-4CB7@webmail-me03.sysops.aol.com> Marty, Not a home brew but last year on vacation in Ontario someone gave me some "10W30",?a local Ontario microbrew. The label was a picture of an MGTC grill and headlights. Pretty good beer too, a nice smooth dark beer. Kinda looked like what I drain from the TR6 at the end of the season.? A brew circle sounds like a good idea to me. I've never made my own, but I have found a few interesting microbrews. Eric ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Dec 14 10:47:06 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 09:47:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] bushing/trunnion clearance In-Reply-To: <000001c83e00$42898510$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> References: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD911670@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> <000001c83e00$42898510$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <02a901c83e79$57afe7d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Not all trunnions are created equal. Mt suggestion is to > take the trunnions > to the machine shop and work them to fit. That's what I have > done for my > TR3s. BTW it's still a good idea to ream the bushings, IMO. Mine were not round as installed, which I believe is the point of supplying them undersize. I would be very suspicious of any trunnion that had an off-size pin ... the pins might not be hardened in addition to not being ground to size. Randall From BillB at bnj.com Fri Dec 14 10:11:31 2007 From: BillB at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 09:11:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] Peyote Progress References: Message-ID: I've had a few questions about progress on Peyote, so I'm getting a little more serious about documenting the process of sticking the poor crushed bugger back together. Here's the latest. http://www.allaluminumtour.com/ From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Dec 14 12:03:36 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 12:03:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] home brews (TRlist) In-Reply-To: <8CA0C8EC98FD803-8B8-4CB7@webmail-me03.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CA0C8EC98FD803-8B8-4CB7@webmail-me03.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4762D388.8030507@tscusa.org> elangtr4 at aol.com wrote: > Marty, > > A brew circle sounds like a good idea to me. I've never made my own, but I have found a few interesting microbrews. > > Eric > So should the Brewers Circle be squeezed in at VTR 2008 in Michigan, and another at Triumphest 2008 in Lake Tahoe? The hotel for VTR 2008 is sort of on a park like area, so lawn chairs and coolers would be in order. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Dec 14 13:26:41 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 15:26:41 EST Subject: [TR] home brews (TRlist) Message-ID: In a message dated 12/14/2007 12:35:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, elangtr4 at aol.com writes: but I have found a few interesting microbrews. Hey Eric, I just finished printing some labels for the Thirsty Dog Brewing here in Akron. "OLD LEGHUMPER" a Robust Porter.You ought to try some out. Available at _www.Thirstydog.com_ (http://www.Thirstydog.com) , NFI , well except they use my labels. Cheers, Darrell I'm In if a Brewers Circle is called! **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Fri Dec 14 14:14:58 2007 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 13:14:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] hi Message-ID: <129281.72466.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> anyone on this list in the rockland co area of new york --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From McGaheyRx at aol.com Fri Dec 14 14:38:49 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 16:38:49 EST Subject: [TR] home brews (TRlist) Message-ID: In a message dated 12/14/2007 3:27:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: just finished printing some labels for the Thirsty Dog Brewing here in Akron. "OLD LEGHUMPER" a Robust Porter.You ought to try some out. sounds like just the thing to chase an Old Speckled Hen with. Cheers, Jack Mc **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Dec 14 16:10:14 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 18:10:14 EST Subject: [TR] home brews (TRlist) Message-ID: In a message dated 12/14/2007 1:04:27 PM Central Standard Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > So should the Brewers Circle be squeezed in at VTR 2008 in Michigan, > Would I be ostracized for bringing brew made from a kit? Would that be like bringing a Duncan Hinds cake to a bake off? Dave From DLylis at aol.com Fri Dec 14 18:57:25 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 20:57:25 EST Subject: [TR] Help I'm unsprung Message-ID: TR3A? Call Dave at TRF. He got me two recently. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Dec 14 20:27:25 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 20:27:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] home brews (TRlist) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4763499D.9090507@tscusa.org> Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 12/14/2007 1:04:27 PM Central Standard Time, > StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > >> So should the Brewers Circle be squeezed in at VTR 2008 in Michigan, >> >> > Would I be ostracized for bringing brew made from a kit? Would that be like > bringing a Duncan Hinds cake to a bake off? > > Dave > > I've had some pretty good "kit" beers, just select a good one ... If anyone wants a brewing "kit", I think I have one in the shed attic. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Dec 15 10:58:07 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 12:58:07 EST Subject: [TR] GT6+ Running Hot Part 2 Message-ID: Guys, I have some time off during the holidays so it is time to trouble shoot. 70 GT6 +, runs too hot for me. Just a bit over half on the NOS SMITHS temp gauge. Does not boil over under any conditions so far but runs warn even during nite riding at 60 degrees. Better when air is filling the Radiator at speed. Problem close in at idle and traffic, it then seems that the motor is breaking up a bit and misfiring slightly. I took the Radiator out and took it to a shop. Tested fine when they blew a bunch of water backwards thru the bottom to the top. They were all chuckling a bit and saying this is a Triumph Radiator, HUH? They said they didn't mind taking my money but it was sort of useless. Now what? The GT6 + is New Construction. I am thinking the "breaking up" is the Crane electronic ignition overheating. She is tuned fairly well and does not respond to any different timing settings as far as cooling down. I believe I tried a different thermostat but CRS is present there. I would really like to fit a MO-JO aluminum radiator but Charles Runyan is not supplying those for the Little Triumph's yet. Anyone from TRF out there on the List? We need some parts too but can't get any respect. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Beverly refuses to ride in the GT6+ for her seat is directly behind the exhaust header and really on fire. I have to hose her down after a sort trip. Darrell **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Dec 15 11:19:19 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 10:19:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] GT6+ Running Hot Part 2 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071215181919.RSCG11718.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> Darrell : IMO the very first thing to do is verify the accuracy of the temperature gauge. Those things were notoriously inaccurate from the factory, and the current practice of supplying the same temperature sender for all cars (even when they were originally different) has only aggravated the problem. The engine should run fine right up to where the coolant boils over, so the misfiring is a separate problem. Beverly's discomfort is also a separate problem (GT6 are famous for high cockpit temperatures). (Don't forget that even at normal operating temperature, the engine is too hot to hold your hand on. The exhaust is far hotter than that.) Your comment that the temperature gauge reads about the same even in cool weather would also tend to indicate that the problem is a gauge that reads a bit high, rather than any real overheating problem. FWIW, I fought a problem with my Crane installation for a long time, that finally proved to be that the rotor I was using had a 'counterweight' molded into the back of it, that was hitting the Crane pickup module. But I had a lot of trouble with phasing before that. May not be your problems, but worth keeping in mind, IMO. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Dec 15 14:50:33 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 16:50:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: More Listers in Hemmings Message-ID: <000601c83f64$8674f330$210110ac@bobspc> Let me try this again............in plain text format and from an account that's registered with the Mail List.....Duh... Email below. This must be the month to have List members mentioned in Hemmings. First Glenn Merrell and now Ted Schumacher and Blake Discher. Blake for the Americas British Reliability Run and Ted for rescuing two Hemmings' editors whose Spit broke an axle during the Reliability Run. Here's the link (http://tinyurl.com/2fj3as) to the Jan '08 issue. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.2/1184 - Release Date: 12/14/2007 11:29 AM From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Dec 15 19:29:07 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 21:29:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6+ Running Hot Part 2 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <47644723.23961.7D2E91@localhost> Randall wrote a nice answer to this but I'll chime in anyway only because I also drive a GT6+. On 15 Dec 2007 at 12:58, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > 70 GT6 +, runs too hot for me. Just a bit over half on the > NOS SMITHS temp gauge. Does not boil over under any conditions Just over half isn't what I'd consider hot. The fact that it reads like that all the time, even with a different thermostat and in different kinds of weather, says that it is working just fine. (I think mine runs right at the halfway point, but slightly above wouldn't scare me unless it kept climbing. I have seen it run hotter. Of course, right now it isn't running at all, given the amount of snow and salt all over the place here.) > Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Beverly > refuses to ride in the GT6+ for her seat is directly behind > the exhaust header and really on fire. I have to hose her > down after a sort trip. Ah, that's a different problem. I hold different beliefs from most supposed experts about keeping a car cool, even some real experts here. The most important thing you can do to keep the interior of the car cool is improve air circulation around the engine and gearbox. For example, many people, which includes the factory, installed insulation under the tranny cover. The trouble is, it reduces the airflow through there. When the insulation eventually becomes saturated with oil, as it inevitably will, the insulation doesn't insulate very well, but the airflow doesn't get any better. So more heat is transferred to the interior, and an additional downside is that the gearbox runs correspondingly hotter. When I bought my GT6+ it had no shrouds around the engine or radiator. (The Spitfire did, but IIRC they are no longer in place.) Sure the GT6 is warm inside but not so much as to make Sharon complain. We open the windows (old-style "acoustic" air conditioning). We've driven 3-hr trips in 95degF weather. I have no proof of this claim but I suspect if I put in shrouds around the engine the entire compartment would get hotter and the firewall and tranny cover would feel much warmer inside the car. For what it's worth, both my cars have the plastic tranny cover from TRF, indifferently installed (because they fit indifferently well until I work at them some), with no additional insulation. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Sat Dec 15 17:14:47 2007 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (BOB KRAMER) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 18:14:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Judson Superchanger for sale Message-ID: <001001c83f78$abc94960$0264a8c0@DadsComputer> I recently picked up a TR3 Judson Supercharger I have no need for with a bunch of other TR3 stuff. I was mostly interested in the spare heads and blocks. It is in unknown condition as it sat on the shelf of a sports car repair shop for untold years. The guy said it worked fine when removed. It has a gilmer pulley on both the main drive and the idler pulley off to the side and it spins without any problems. I'm sure it still should be checked over by a pro before installing. Is anyone out there looking for one? I haven't been watching eBay for them. How much are they worth? Please respond off list as I am not a regular reader. Thanks Bob Kramer rkramer3 at austin.rr.com From banc8004 at comcast.net Sun Dec 16 06:33:55 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 08:33:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hot GT6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <16924E9F-2D2F-4D59-BB97-06E130503300@comcast.net> Darrell, I'd confirm the temp at which the thermosat opens, and the actual temp the car runs at when warm. I'd back flush the engime block, and check the water pump. Maybe there is there a way to check the fow rate from the water pump? A lean engine, or poor timing can make the header so hot it the cast iron can glow red. As for cooling the cabin, I'd try something like this product. MG forms have a lot covering how to keep engine hat out of the cabin. They might be worth abrowse. http://www.koolmat.com/british.shtml Brian > Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 12:58:07 EST > From: TR250Driver at aol.com > Subject: [TR] GT6+ Running Hot Part 2 > > Guys, > I have some time off during the holidays so it is time to trouble > shoot. 70 > GT6 +, runs too hot for me. Just a bit over half on the NOS > SMITHS temp > gauge. Does not boil over under any conditions so far but runs > warn even > during nite riding at 60 degrees. > Beverly refuses to > ride in the GT6+ for her seat is directly behind the exhaust header > and really > on fire. I have to hose her down after a sort trip. > Darrell From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Dec 16 10:38:30 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 12:38:30 EST Subject: [TR] home brews (TRlist) Message-ID: In a message dated 12/14/2007 9:28:13 PM Central Standard Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > If anyone wants a brewing "kit", I think I have one in the shed attic. > Me too. But I think I'll use it before I let it go. Who knows, I may like it. BTW the lense for the beer sign I thought is was getting a la carte fell and broke but I glued it back together. Adds character. Dave From flashtr3 at cox.net Sun Dec 16 11:40:08 2007 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 10:40:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] Oil Pump Pressure Message-ID: <007801c84013$156b29c0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Fellas, I am in need for some opinions here. I just recently rebuilt my TR3 engine and just went to started it yesterday. The engine fired up with the first turn of starter & as I was checking the oil pressure from the gauge, there was none. I replaced the rotors in the pump and check for end float, when the engine was torn down. It seemed ok. There is oil that is coming from the plugs in the oil gallery when I removed it, as well from the oil filter housing assy where the oil pressure line comes off to the sending unit. Disconnecting the oil pressure line at the oil gauge line connection, there is no oil coming out. I then took of the distributor housing and removed the drive tach gear and removed the oil pump drive stem & replaced with a makeshift longer stem attached to my drill motor and in the direction ccw was able to see oil flow come up the drive and seemed to be circulating in the engine when I removed oil gallery plugs. I have rebuilt TR engines over many years, and never encountered this problem before, but I guess there is always a first time. My question to the list is: 1. Is the pump faulty? 2. What other areas would you check to see if the oil pump is circulating oil? 2. Rather then replace the rotors again, would I be better off with a new pump and what type or aftermarket is available? Thanks for advice in advance, Ibsen 59' TR3A TS35658LO From mark at bradakis.com Sun Dec 16 12:35:12 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 12:35:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [TR] TRF seatbelts? Message-ID: <20071216193512.B532CBBE43@bradakis.com> The Roadster Factory recently had a special on seat belt kits. Has anyone gotten and installed them in a TR6? Do they fit and work well? mjb. --- From jgillis at tcd.ie Sun Dec 16 13:46:25 2007 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 20:46:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] engine compression results Message-ID: <84222810-28FB-47CC-A3FF-651D62A52072@tcd.ie> Hi all, On the continuing saga that is my TR2 engine rebuild, un-happy with the amount of blow-back coming out the oil filler cap, I removed all plugs, all 4 were very black, No. 1 was also wet, I am not too bothered by this as I have been playing around with mixtures while trying to get the engine set up and all engine running has been stationery. I carried out a compression test, this gave me 170psi on 1 190psi on 2 and 3, but 4 would not hold compression, as soon as I stopped turning the engine over the gauge just sank to zero. I put some oil down the bore but it had no effect, mind you with such drastic readings or lack of them! I am not sure oil would deal with a ring problem. I was sure the engine was running on all 4, is this possible with zero compression. Any ideas on what I should do next at least to confirm where the problem lies. Regards John From jgillis at tcd.ie Sun Dec 16 13:52:51 2007 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 20:52:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] compression test correction Message-ID: <19B3B5AF-F9BC-4DBA-8631-34C1FD28FCD0@tcd.ie> when I said all engine running had been stationery, I did not intend to convey that it was surrounded by office supplies!!!!, I of course meant stationAry From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Dec 16 16:27:26 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 18:27:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] engine compression results In-Reply-To: <84222810-28FB-47CC-A3FF-651D62A52072@tcd.ie> References: <84222810-28FB-47CC-A3FF-651D62A52072@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <200712161827.26637.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 16 December 2007 03:46 pm, John Gillis wrote: > Hi all, > On the continuing saga that is my TR2 engine rebuild, un-happy with > the amount of blow-back coming out the oil filler cap, I removed all > plugs, all 4 were very black, No. 1 was also wet, I am not too > bothered by this as I have been playing around with mixtures while > trying to get the engine set up and all engine running has been > stationery. I carried out a compression test, this gave me 170psi on 1 > 190psi on 2 and 3, but 4 would not hold compression, as soon as I > stopped turning the engine over the gauge just sank to zero. I put > some oil down the bore but it had no effect, mind you with such > drastic readings or lack of them! I am not sure oil would deal with a > ring problem. I was sure the engine was running on all 4, is this > possible with zero compression. Any ideas on what I should do next at > least to confirm where the problem lies. > Regards > John > _______________________________________________ John, With zero compression I would guess that a valve is open or a valve seat is not correct. Unless you have a hole in the piston or 3 broken rings. There could also be a crack in the head between 3 and 4. Sounds to me like the head needs to come off. Was the head checked for cracks and warp by a machine shop? Bob From pethier at comcast.net Sun Dec 16 16:49:03 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 23:49:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] engine compression results Message-ID: <121620072349.17259.4765B96F000D20AB0000436B22007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Bob Labuz > With zero compression I would guess that a valve is open or a valve seat is > not correct. > > Unless you have a hole in the piston or 3 broken rings. > > There could also be a crack in the head between 3 and 4. Leak-down test will probably show the location of the leak. Pump the air in, listen at tailpipe, dipstick, intake. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From cak at dimebank.com Sun Dec 16 19:05:16 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 18:05:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] GT6+ Running Hot Part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4765D95C.10200@dimebank.com> I made a huge difference in Bubba's cabin temperature by pulling out all the carpets and carpet underlayment, and replacing the rotted jute with mylarized bubble wrap. There's a trade name for this that I can never remember, but you'll find it at any home improvement store, in rolls. Keep the rear wing windows open to move air through the car. We've done lots of long trips in cold and hot weather and it's very comfortable. Pushing more air through the engine compartment helps, but you really want all the air that you can get into the engine compartment to go through the too-small radiator! From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Sun Dec 16 19:48:15 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 18:48:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] Length of the bolts that secure a TR6 hardtop Message-ID: <000001c84057$45ed9670$b1191718@computer> Could someone please tell me the length of the bolts that go through the windshield frame to secure the hardtop? Also just to verify, I believe these are 5/16 inch fine threaded bolts. Thanks, Jim Two '74 TR6s [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 16 20:43:10 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 19:43:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] engine compression results In-Reply-To: <84222810-28FB-47CC-A3FF-651D62A52072@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <20071217034310.RTWZ20056.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > as soon as I stopped > turning the engine over the gauge just sank to zero. John, I find this statement very puzzling. It sounds like your compression gauge is defective ... it should always hold the peak reading as the cylinder normally has no pressure (while cranking) for most of the cycle. As noted, putting air pressure on the cylinder will let you listen for the leak in the intake, exhaust and crankcase. However, I think you've already got enough information; so if you don't have the tools on hand to do the pressure test, I'd just go ahead and pull the head off. Most likely, you'll also wind up removing the piston for #4, but removing the head is the first step anyway. And the good news is that the piston will come out as well without having to remove the engine from the car (or pull that darned front apron). Randall From rgperry at earthlink.net Sun Dec 16 20:44:18 2007 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 21:44:18 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [TR] Length of the bolts that secure a TR6 hardtop Message-ID: <2751975.1197863058275.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Jim, 2.5 inches, 5/16" fine thread Greg Perry >Could someone please tell me the length of the bolts that go through the >windshield frame to secure the hardtop? Also just to verify, I believe >these are 5/16 inch fine threaded bolts. > >Thanks, Jim From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 16 20:57:51 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 19:57:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Oil Pump Pressure In-Reply-To: <007801c84013$156b29c0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <20071217035751.ZVCE7470.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > The > engine fired up with the first turn of starter & as I was > checking the oil pressure from the gauge, there was none. Which is exactly why I much prefer to spin a new engine with the starter (plugs out) until the oil pressure comes up. > There is oil > that is coming from the plugs in the oil gallery when I > removed it, as well from the oil filter housing assy where > the oil pressure line comes off to the sending unit. > Disconnecting the oil pressure line at the oil gauge line > connection, there is no oil coming out. Seems to pretty clearly indicate a blockage between those two points, then. If oil will flow out at the filter housing, it should also flow out at the open end of the line. Slowly perhaps, but it should happen. > My question to the list is: > 1. Is the pump faulty? Seems unlikely to me; although anything is possible. The pump design is pretty basic, about the only failure that could cause no pressure at all would be if the rotor was slipping on the shaft or the outer ring was missing. > 2. What other areas would you check to see if the oil pump is > circulating oil? When you spun the pump with a drill motor, was there a load on the drill motor ? If not, I'd be looking at the drive to the pump. I've heard tales of replacement rotors being only pressed onto the shaft instead of being located with a pin, and sometimes the press fit isn't enough to carry the load. But if it did pick up a load, then I'd say there is a problem with the line to the gauge. Also worth checking the pressure relief valve. > 2. Rather then replace the rotors again, would I be better > off with a new pump I can't see why. Again it's pretty basic, anything sufficiently wrong to prevent oil pressure should also be obvious. If you can't find the problem, you're probably looking in the wrong place. Randall From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Dec 16 21:57:47 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 23:57:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Radiator change? Message-ID: <001301c84069$6006eef0$c594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Dear All, Tonight I won an Ebay auction for a new Wizard Cooling TR3 radiator shown at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=ST RK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190181591357&rd=1 Although I've installed a yellow TR6 fan blade- I think I am going to take this off and instead run an electric fan. Would anyone blame me if I did? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Dec 17 05:44:41 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 07:44:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Radiator change? In-Reply-To: <001301c84069$6006eef0$c594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001301c84069$6006eef0$c594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <000901c840aa$99fd2020$210110ac@bobspc> Paul, Based on the seller's name, you won it from Scott at Wizard Cooling. If you're serious about an electric radiator you might want to consider asking him to install/solder in a bung for the fan thermostat. They can also do custom mounts for a Spal fan which is the fan they use. Good radiator choice.... Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 11:58 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Radiator change? Dear All, Tonight I won an Ebay auction for a new Wizard Cooling TR3 radiator shown at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=S T RK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190181591357&rd=1 Although I've installed a yellow TR6 fan blade- I think I am going to take this off and instead run an electric fan. Would anyone blame me if I did? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007 11:36 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007 11:36 AM From cartr4a at ameritech.net Mon Dec 17 05:53:48 2007 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 04:53:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Test-Delete Message-ID: <56565.68201.qm@web80210.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Test From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Dec 17 08:04:00 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 10:04:00 EST Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6+ Running Hot Part 2 Message-ID: In a message dated 12/15/2007 10:11:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, doug at dougbraun.com writes: I suspect your car is running about as hot as it did new from the factory. If the gauge does not get too high and it does not boil over, I think it's not really overheating. Thanks for all the responses and advise guys. Somehow I knew that the GT6+ was going to be hot but it fooled me by not cooling down when the outside temps were cooler. The worst thing is this Crane break up problem. I still think it may be related to heat effecting the amplifier but I will check into the dizzy and report back findings. Cheers, Darrell BTW The Radiator still is suspect to me because it weighs a ton. I still want an aluminum one. I have seen a few GT6 race cars with them. **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Dec 17 08:16:15 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 08:16:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] engine compression results In-Reply-To: <20071217034310.RTWZ20056.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20071217034310.RTWZ20056.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <071DFB874B43465796923FBE6D26986F@GeoPC> Certainly a defective gauge, should be a little pin, button or such on the side of the unit that releases the pressure reading. I think what may be happening is that your engine happens to stop with one of the #4 valves open -- some valve has to be open when the engine stops -- and thus no compression remains. I would check again and perform the other tests before pulling the head. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 8:43 PM Subject: Re: [TR] engine compression results >> as soon as I stopped >> turning the engine over the gauge just sank to zero. > > John, I find this statement very puzzling. It sounds like your > compression > gauge is defective ... it should always hold the peak reading as the > cylinder normally has no pressure (while cranking) for most of the cycle. From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Mon Dec 17 08:24:20 2007 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 09:24:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] Test-Delete In-Reply-To: <56565.68201.qm@web80210.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <56565.68201.qm@web80210.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I tested my delete as you requested. It seemed to work fine. Thanks for the chance to test it. %^) I hope you solved your problem also.Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA'63 TR3B TCF587LThat ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!See it moves!> Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 04:53:48 -0800> From: cartr4a at ameritech.net> To: triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] Test-Delete> > Test> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Dec 17 10:49:09 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 09:49:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] Radiator change? In-Reply-To: <001301c84069$6006eef0$c594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001301c84069$6006eef0$c594df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <004001c840d5$208c3390$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Although I've installed a yellow TR6 fan blade- I think I am > going to take > this off and instead run an electric fan. Would anyone blame > me if I did? Nothing wrong with an electric fan ... I've used one on my TR3A for many years. Of course, you may also want to upgrade the charging system so the fan doesn't run the battery down. Randall From jgillis at tcd.ie Mon Dec 17 14:57:08 2007 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 21:57:08 +0000 Subject: [TR] compression results revisited Message-ID: <9F291715-ED87-4E08-AFD3-82373676ABDE@tcd.ie> Hi all, Try imagine me sitting here rather red faced as I explain that yes Randall was correct (now there's a surprise) it was indeed the gauge, which worked fine on the 1 to 3 but failed when I used it on 4. I checked again using the gauge on three and this time got the same no reading. I tightened up the gubbins of the gauge and tried again on 4, this time it held the reading for a while before slowly loosing it. It would appear that 4 has the same reading as the other 3 i.e 180 to 190 psi, dare I now ask how does this measure up as a reading? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Dec 17 15:51:20 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 14:51:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] compression results revisited In-Reply-To: <9F291715-ED87-4E08-AFD3-82373676ABDE@tcd.ie> References: <9F291715-ED87-4E08-AFD3-82373676ABDE@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <008001c840ff$573b95a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > It > would appear that 4 has the same reading as the other 3 i.e > 180 to 190 > psi, dare I now ask how does this measure up as a reading? John, The actual numbers are not as important as how well they match between cylinders. If all 4 are between 180-190 (meaning within 3% of the average), then that is very good. Meant to mention before, my TRactor motors have always had a pretty strong 'pulse' if you hold your hand above the open oil filler with the engine running. I'm not sure why that is, but it doesn't seem to necessarily indicate a problem. Randall From skye at F4.ca Mon Dec 17 16:00:20 2007 From: skye at F4.ca (Skye Poier Nott) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:00:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] VTR mail list page out of date Message-ID: <41F0257A-223F-459C-893C-B300DE2281FC@F4.ca> Yay, finally got on the mail list! The information and links on this VTR page are out of date: http://www.vtr.org/mailing-list.shtml It looks like it still has the old Majordomo instructions and this list has been moved to Mailman. That would explain why majordomo was saying there was no such list :) Link should be: http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs Anyway, good to be here. Regards, Skye P. Nott The Triumph Experience www.triumphexperience.com From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Mon Dec 17 17:31:44 2007 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 19:31:44 EST Subject: [TR] Overheating GT6 Message-ID: Darrell, I had a similar overheating problem with my Mk I GT6 (w/Mk III engine) except mine would keep creeping up the gage until it boiled over. As you know, the filler cap is not the highest point in the system and air can be trapped. The list suggested slowly topping up the system with the front of the car raised as high off the ground as possible, then "burping" the lower hose until all bubbles were eliminated. I also put a petcock thingie at the highest point of the cooling system, which is adjacent to the heater. I can crack that open to expel any trapped air. Make sure the ducting is in place in front of the radiator, and run a 165 degree thermostat. As additional insurance, I'm now using both the engine-driven fan and an electric fan in front of the radiator, which has a high-density core. I'm gonna add an oil cooler next; can't have enough backup help! Most recently, the gage reads about 1/3 of the scale. Like to think the problem is gone, but not really sure yet. We"re talking about driving it to Ypsilanti (from Rochester, NY), along with the TR4A; a reasonable test drive. See you there, and you'll get a full report! Good luck! George Haynes ************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Dec 17 18:46:53 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 20:46:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Toyota 5 Speed, Nissan Diff Message-ID: <000301c84117$dfd87fa0$210110ac@bobspc> Well it's that time of year when the TR6 is sitting high on her jack stands wondering what "he's" going to do to her this winter. I've got some major surgery planned including a Toyota 5 speed, Goodparts' Nissan differential upgrade and a complete brake overhaul. I just updated my site with lots of pictures of the prep work so far. It's all under the link called "The Big Six O" Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007 11:36 AM From jmitch at snet.net Tue Dec 18 09:33:27 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 11:33:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <4767F657.9060803@snet.net> Dropping the slave cylinder is the easiest way. Undo 2 bolts and just let it hang down by the hose. When done, bolt it back up and your done. This will not affect the clutch in any way. I do it whenever I change the filter in the canister, which is every other oil change. Of course I never let the oil get very dirty. John Mitchell 76 TR6 P.S. an alternative is to try and flex the drive shaft enough to slip the cannister by. im sloane wrote: > team, > Unless I missed a post, nobody mentioned how to remove the original canister > from the vehicle. This can be a 'neat trick' on a left hand steer car, as the > steering column is on the 'wrong side'. I've removed my steering column once, > but I recall having a devil of a time getting it back on. Someone once > mentioned dropping down the clutch slave, but if my clutch is operating > properly that's not something I'd want to mess with. Those may be the only two > options. From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Dec 18 09:56:53 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 11:56:53 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <4767F657.9060803@snet.net> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> <4767F657.9060803@snet.net> Message-ID: Hi, "back in the day", the dealer mechanics would disconnect the fuel pump from the block to make room to remove the canister in an oil change. In fact, on my Dad's TR6, the car died (on several occasions) about 1/4 mile from the dealer because the mechanic "forgot" to re-install the fuel pump. Pull the fuel pump and the filter and canister comes right up past the steering column. If you have an electric fuel pump and a blanking plate in the block, you don't have to do anything! But I still stand on the spin-on being q good upgrade for all the reasons formerly articulated. rml p.s. get a good adapter, the cheap ones have porous castings and will drip oil. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com Tue Dec 18 11:04:25 2007 From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 13:04:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Radiator Question Message-ID: To the list, I am slowly inching closer to finishing my TR4 & I have a radiator question: My TR4 is a 1962 body but I am putting in a motor out of a 1964 TR4. I ended up with two radiators, a "long neck" and a more traditional. After radiator re-coring sticker shock ($350) I am looking at some new shiny aluminum radiators, but I am not sure which option I should get (do I need the long neck version or can I use the more traditional?) Thanks as always, John D From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Dec 18 11:53:08 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 10:53:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Radiator Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <017d01c841a7$3b276300$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > (do I > need the long neck version or can I use the more traditional?) The long neck was a holdover from the TR3 ... no need for it on a TR4. Since it's also a source of problems, I'd go for the traditional style. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Tue Dec 18 13:55:26 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 13:55:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Last minute Triumph Gift ide Message-ID: <004401c841b8$518c5b80$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Hey Listees! I just wanted to let everyone know that I still have 12 Triumph List Grill Badges that are available for immediate shipment. The price is $30.00 each plus $5.00 shipping (inside the US). Just the thing for the Triumph owner who has everything! Anyone interested, please email me off list. Joe Curry From RYoung at navcomtech.com Tue Dec 18 14:53:32 2007 From: RYoung at navcomtech.com (Young Randall) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 13:53:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Likely everyone but me has seen this, but JIC ... http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fGQMac_kMjI From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Dec 18 16:04:13 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 18:04:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Radiator Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200712181804.13807.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 18 December 2007 01:04 pm, John Dunham wrote: > To the list, > I am slowly inching closer to finishing my TR4 & I have a radiator > question: My TR4 is a 1962 body but I am putting in a motor out of a 1964 > TR4. I ended up with two radiators, a "long neck" and a more traditional. > After radiator re-coring sticker shock ($350) I am looking at some new > shiny aluminum radiators, but I am not sure which option I should get (do I > need the long neck version or can I use the more traditional?) > Thanks as always, > John D John, I installed the traditional 4 rad in my 63 just finished last year. Lot less clutter and one less thing to spring a leak as Randall mentioned. I have long neck rads but I will use them on the 3 when necessary. I can send you a pic to give you an idea of what it looks like installed. Bob From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Dec 18 16:44:22 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 23:44:22 -0000 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video References: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <01a301c841cf$eaae8240$0201a8c0@Bevan> Hey, that's nice - and I'd missed it too. Only one *criticism.* Did anyone manage to get out of second gear? In one of the shots you could see the speedo and it looked like they were only doing about 45-50mph - or was the choke not pushed fully home in the camera car? :::))) Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Young Randall" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 9:53 PM Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video > Likely everyone but me has seen this, but JIC ... > > http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fGQMac_kMjI > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Dec 18 16:16:39 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 16:16:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Radiator Question In-Reply-To: <200712181804.13807.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200712181804.13807.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: John -- If you go this route you might consider adding a recovery bottle (since you lose that expansion tank on the long-neck). Original-style bottles & brackets for the TR4A et al are available and look correct under the bonnet (compared to aftermarket bottles). Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Labuz" > > I installed the traditional 4 rad in my 63 just finished last year. Lot > less > clutter and one less thing to spring a leak as Randall mentioned. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Dec 18 17:09:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 16:09:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: <01a301c841cf$eaae8240$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <01a301c841cf$eaae8240$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <01ae01c841d3$7b3365d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Hey, that's nice - and I'd missed it too. Only one > *criticism.* Did anyone manage to get out of > second gear? In one of the shots you could see the speedo and > it looked like they were only doing > about 45-50mph - I didn't go on the run myself (no drivable Triumph at the time), but I would guess that is correct. "Rally" is something of a misnomer, the actual event is closer to a tour, with little or no competition. At TRfest, there is a requirement that you must complete at least one driving event in order to enter the Funcours. The "Fun rallye" is a chance for people with nicely restored cars to take a casual tour of the countryside, and incidentally meet the "driving event" requirement without undue risk to the cars. Plus I doubt the legal speed limit was more than 55 mph on any of those roads, likely much lower in spots. After all, this is California ... the point is not who is best but how much we all enjoy our Triumphs. Hopefully when you come visit us in 2009, you can star in your own video of California back roads ! Randall From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Tue Dec 18 19:18:07 2007 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 02:18:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: <121920070218.28295.47687F5F000989E900006E8722070206539D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net> Thanks Randall, I hadn't seen it. I did catch a short glimpse of my car though. Bob -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Young Randall" > Likely everyone but me has seen this, but JIC ... > > http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fGQMac_kMjI > _______________________________________________ From trglory at comcast.net Tue Dec 18 19:45:01 2007 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 21:45:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <007101c841e9$276958e0$763c0aa0$@net> It's not raining and it doesn't appear to be cold......why does everybody have their tops up? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Young Randall Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 4:54 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Likely everyone but me has seen this, but JIC ... http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fGQMac_kMjI _______________________________________________ No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date: 12/17/2007 2:13 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Dec 18 20:17:40 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 22:17:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: <007101c841e9$276958e0$763c0aa0$@net> References: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <007101c841e9$276958e0$763c0aa0$@net> Message-ID: <001501c841ed$b9792cc0$210110ac@bobspc> Joe.....LMAO.... I wondered the same thing but was a chicken to ask. Heck.........I was driving around here with the top down and the temp in the low 40's until last week...........and I've never seen so many hard tops..................in California! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Laurito Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 9:45 PM To: 'Young Randall'; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Cool Triumph video It's not raining and it doesn't appear to be cold......why does everybody have their tops up? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Young Randall Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 4:54 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Likely everyone but me has seen this, but JIC ... http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fGQMac_kMjI _______________________________________________ No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date: 12/17/2007 2:13 PM No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date: 12/17/2007 2:13 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date: 12/17/2007 2:13 PM From wquincy at cox.net Tue Dec 18 21:04:04 2007 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 22:04:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] Speaker ingenuity Message-ID: <7486AE29-0350-4214-AF0D-25E79F174EA1@cox.net> Greetings list, As I'm putting the final touches on my TR3 restoration I'm looking to the audiophiles among you to help me think outside the box in regards to speaker placement and attachment. I've decided to amplify my iPod rather than add a radio. Every thing is in place except speakers Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Bill Quincy Wichita Kansas From trglory at comcast.net Tue Dec 18 21:26:46 2007 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 23:26:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Speaker ingenuity In-Reply-To: <7486AE29-0350-4214-AF0D-25E79F174EA1@cox.net> References: <7486AE29-0350-4214-AF0D-25E79F174EA1@cox.net> Message-ID: <007e01c841f7$5ddb2670$19917350$@net> Bill; My thoughts are that the TR3 is so damn loud, you'll never be able to appreciate the music anyway. Don't waste your money. However, if you are dead set on doing it, make sure you install a big amp and an even bigger alternator. Joe Laurito Central PA Triumph Club -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William C. Quincy Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 11:04 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Speaker ingenuity Greetings list, As I'm putting the final touches on my TR3 restoration I'm looking to the audiophiles among you to help me think outside the box in regards to speaker placement and attachment. I've decided to amplify my iPod rather than add a radio. Every thing is in place except speakers Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Bill Quincy Wichita Kansas _______________________________________________ No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date: 12/17/2007 2:13 PM From emanteno at comcast.net Tue Dec 18 21:48:41 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 04:48:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: <121920070448.17847.4768A2A9000C227E000045B72200751150970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Joe Laurito" > It's not raining and it doesn't appear to be cold......why does everybody > have their tops up? Air conditioning? Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From: "Joe Laurito" To: "'Young Randall'" , "'Triumphs'" Subject: Re: [TR] Cool Triumph video Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 02:45:35 +0000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from Multipart/mixed by demime 1.01d X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain _______________________________________________ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Tue Dec 18 22:05:14 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 22:05:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] compression results revisited In-Reply-To: <9F291715-ED87-4E08-AFD3-82373676ABDE@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <20071219050604.0160C187A0A@autox.team.net> John, That is great compression, my TR3 is 120-135 and runs great! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" This information is privileged and confidential and is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of this information (including attachments) by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please delete the information from your system and contact the sender. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:57 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] compression results revisited Hi all, Try imagine me sitting here rather red faced as I explain that yes Randall was correct (now there's a surprise) it was indeed the gauge, which worked fine on the 1 to 3 but failed when I used it on 4. I checked again using the gauge on three and this time got the same no reading. I tightened up the gubbins of the gauge and tried again on 4, this time it held the reading for a while before slowly loosing it. It would appear that 4 has the same reading as the other 3 i.e 180 to 190 psi, dare I now ask how does this measure up as a reading? This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007 9:40 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007 9:40 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Dec 18 22:37:14 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 21:37:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: <007101c841e9$276958e0$763c0aa0$@net> Message-ID: <20071219053715.SBDN7470.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > It's not raining and it doesn't appear to be cold......why > does everybody have their tops up? Dunno ... I see some with tops down and some others with hard tops. Likely the remaining few didn't want to take a chance on mussing their hair, or interior. And some do find October in CA to be rather cool at 40-50 mph. (Tho likely not anyone who lives where it snows ) Randall From vitop at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 18 22:53:11 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 23:53:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] tr6 engine pic Message-ID: <16eb01c84203$70e8f6f0$6601a8c0@serverxp> Hello: Does anyone have a good front shot of a 74 TR6 engine that shows which bolt the little bracket that hold the fuel line that goes across the front of the engine? It is the line that comes from the fuel pump and makes a right angle goes across the front of the engine and then makes another right angle and goes back to the carbs. On a 74 there is a small clip that has a rubber tube that the line goes through. It gets boltes to either one of the water pump bolts or a thermistat bolt. I thought I had a good picture before I took it apart. The pic didn't come out and it's been too long and my mind is too feeble to remember it. Any help would be appreciated. From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Dec 18 23:27:52 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 01:27:52 EST Subject: [TR] compression results revisited Message-ID: In a message dated 12/18/2007 9:06:02 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: John, That is great compression, my TR3 is 120-135 and runs great! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" This information is privileged and confidential But just why is that privileged and confidential? :-)) Mike Moore **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From wbeech at flash.net Tue Dec 18 23:48:57 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 23:48:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] compression results revisited In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071219064946.7932D187A25@autox.team.net> Can't let the MG guys see it _____ From: MMoore8425 at aol.com [mailto:MMoore8425 at aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 11:28 PM To: wbeech at flash.net; jgillis at tcd.ie; triumphs at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [TR] compression results revisited In a message dated 12/18/2007 9:06:02 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: John, That is great compression, my TR3 is 120-135 and runs great! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" This information is privileged and confidential But just why is that privileged and confidential? :-)) Mike Moore _____ See AOL's HYPERLINK "http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004" \ntop rated recipes and HYPERLINK "http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aoltop00030000000003" \neasy ways to stay in shape for winter. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007 9:40 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007 9:40 PM From team.net at daveola.com Wed Dec 19 00:22:32 2007 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 23:22:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] Speaker ingenuity In-Reply-To: <7486AE29-0350-4214-AF0D-25E79F174EA1@cox.net> References: <7486AE29-0350-4214-AF0D-25E79F174EA1@cox.net> Message-ID: > As I'm putting the final touches on my TR3 restoration I'm looking to > the audiophiles among you to help me think outside the box If you have a TR3 without the optional backseat, then you can make one that contains the speakers. The advantage of this is security, if the bolts are inside and it's lockable, then a thief would have a hell of a time getting your speakers out. (I attached my speaker with screws from the inside - the outside is totally flush). My backseat and speaker project is here, might be of some use: http://Triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Backseat/ As Joe mentioned, you will definitely want a bigger alternator, you'll burn out the stock generator with a good audio system. Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From andygraybeal at earthlink.net Wed Dec 19 01:23:30 2007 From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 00:23:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 414 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This is a great little video, at least as far as I'm concerned, because these are roads I drive every time I visit my sister in Lompoc. After abelskivers in Solvang, we take the long way back to Lompoc and there are a number of long ways to go. Nice steady camera work and editing. Andy Graybeal On Dec 18, 2007, at 10:28 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: >> http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fGQMac_kMjI From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Dec 19 04:16:54 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 04:16:54 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20071219041654.18c71d10@pop.west.cox.net> Nice video, somehow we got in there with all the TR6's :-)! Our top is down however, if you look at the very beginning of the video you'll see our little red/maroon Spitfire just past the blue TR6s parked at the side of the road waiting to leave. The reason most tops are up however is probably because the rally is right after the judging and people haven't put there top down yet - Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Dec 19 06:37:34 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 08:37:34 EST Subject: [TR] Speaker ingenuity Message-ID: In a message dated 12/19/2007 1:27:06 AM Central Standard Time, team.net at daveola.com writes: > If you have a TR3 without the optional backseat, then you can make > one that contains the speakers. The advantage of this is security, > if the bolts are inside and it's lockable, then a thief would have > a hell of a time getting your speakers out. (I attached my speaker > with screws from the inside - the outside is totally flush). > > My backseat and speaker project is here, might be of some use: > > http://Triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Backseat/ > This is a clever solution but it only works on a pre 60,000 series car without the shelf. The later models have enough room under the shelf to mount the speakers behind. Back in 2000 I saw a car owned by a Canadian with the most clever and stealthy audio installation I have ever seen. He had used PVC pipe of appropriate size to form baffles for the speakers and protect them from the elements. He also had some other neat ideas. One was mounting tweeters in the defroster ducts so that the high notes came out the defroster vents. Another option is to find some Miata seats with the speakers in the headrests. Let the mind wander. Dave From vitop at sbcglobal.net Wed Dec 19 08:32:53 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 09:32:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] water pump install Message-ID: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp> Thanks to everyone that sent me photos for the fuel line. They helped a ton. I've got another question for the concours crowd. How was the water pump detailed? Was the pump assembled to the housing with the studs and nuts and then all painted as an assembly? Or are the studs and nuts supposed to show up as zinc plated with no paint? Also, I am assuming that it is best to use some sort of gasket seal for the gasket between the water pump and housing? probably use something on both sides of the gasket? And lastly, what's the best stuff to use? Thanks! From BearTranserv at aol.com Wed Dec 19 09:55:48 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 11:55:48 EST Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: Am I the only one that has problems with some youtube videos? Most play fine, but occasionally, and the TR video is one of them, they take a few seconds to start, play for two seconds, stop for 10-15 or more, play 2-3 seconds and so on. If I let it play through all the way and hit replay, it plays fine. I usually don't have the patience to do that. Anyone know a fix? http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fGQMac_kMjI Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Dec 19 11:01:26 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 13:01:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] water pump install In-Reply-To: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp> References: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp> Message-ID: <200712191301.27177.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 19 December 2007 10:32 am, Vito wrote: > Thanks to everyone that sent me photos for the fuel line. They helped a > ton. > > I've got another question for the concours crowd. > > How was the water pump detailed? Was the pump assembled to the housing with > the studs and nuts and then all painted as an assembly? Or are the studs > and nuts supposed to show up as zinc plated with no paint? Vito, I dont know the answer but would hope that a judge would not mark off because the nuts were painted or not as long as they were clean. After all it is an engine. I always paint all nuts, bolts, washers the applicable color. Black for all engine hardware with the exception of the valve cover nuts, they are polished stainless steel. Looks good against the chrome cover. > > Also, I am assuming that it is best to use some sort of gasket seal for the > gasket between the water pump and housing? probably use something on both > sides of the gasket? > And lastly, what's the best stuff to use? For the water pump, and thermostat housing I use Blue Max. Bob > > Thanks! > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Dec 19 10:56:40 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 12:56:40 EST Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: In a message dated 12/19/2007 10:56:13 AM Central Standard Time, BearTranserv at aol.com writes: > Am I the only one that has problems with some youtube videos? Most play > fine, but occasionally, and the TR video is one of them, they take a few > seconds > to start, play for two seconds, stop for 10-15 or more, play 2-3 seconds > and > so on. If I let it play through all the way and hit replay, it plays fine. > > I usually don't have the patience to do that. > > Anyone know a fix? > You need a faster pipeline. I've watched videos here at work that did that but at home they chug right along, no worries. If you watch the progress bar you will see a slider that shows where you are in the sequence. You will also see a shade line showing the down load progress. It races ahead of the slider at home but here at work it does not. BTW I have DSL at home but we have a T1 here at work. Go figure. Dave From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Dec 19 10:55:53 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 10:55:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: <007101c841e9$276958e0$763c0aa0$@net> References: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <007101c841e9$276958e0$763c0aa0$@net> Message-ID: <704DFADBB49A4F6DB736438143C850AD@GeoPC> Although the Triumphest judging is a 'Funcours' they do require the top to be up. As there is usually a drive immediately following I just take the points deduction rather than put the TR4 top on just for the show then off for the drive. Most TR4 owners will understand. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Laurito" To: "'Young Randall'" ; "'Triumphs'" Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 7:45 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Cool Triumph video > It's not raining and it doesn't appear to be cold......why does everybody > have their tops up? From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com Wed Dec 19 11:01:15 2007 From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 08:01:15 -1000 Subject: [TR] tr6 engine pic References: <16eb01c84203$70e8f6f0$6601a8c0@serverxp> Message-ID: <003d01c84269$277111e0$6401a8c0@PamHome> Hope this helps Vito. Mele Kalikimaka! Mark Bullard '74 TR6 Kailua, HI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vito" To: Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 7:53 PM Subject: [TR] tr6 engine pic > Hello: > > Does anyone have a good front shot of a 74 TR6 engine that shows which > bolt > the little bracket that hold the fuel line that goes across the front of > the > engine? > > It is the line that comes from the fuel pump and makes a right angle goes > across the front of the engine and then makes another right angle and goes > back to the carbs. On a 74 there is a small clip that has a rubber tube > that > the line goes through. It gets boltes to either one of the water pump > bolts or > a thermistat bolt. > > I thought I had a good picture before I took it apart. The pic didn't come > out > and it's been too long and my mind is too feeble to remember it. Any help > would be appreciated. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMGP0913.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMGP0912.JPG] From pethier at comcast.net Wed Dec 19 11:23:39 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:23:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: <121920071823.18744.476961AB000B129D0000493822007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" > Although the Triumphest judging is a 'Funcours' they do require the top to > be up. As there is usually a drive immediately following I just take the > points deduction rather than put the TR4 top on just for the show then off > for the drive. > > Most TR4 owners will understand. Got that. Newton's laws of inertia as regards TR4 tops: A TR4 hood erected tends to stay erected. A TR4 hood removed tends to stay removed. The Miata top on the other hand changes state quite often. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Wed Dec 19 11:37:36 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:37:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: <121920071837.8484.476964F000022AFC0000212422007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Very nice cars. Also nice to see an attractive woman at the wheel instead of the guys we usually get. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Young Randall" > Likely everyone but me has seen this, but JIC ... > > http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fGQMac_kMjI > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From triosan at gmail.com Wed Dec 19 11:54:21 2007 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 10:54:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] water pump install In-Reply-To: <001801c8425d$5c95c4d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> References: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp> <001801c8425d$5c95c4d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0712191054t5209ea4fua52b7d2c1ece973c@mail.gmail.com> Wow, just ordered one three ounce tube of the "racing" version [higher adhesion]. Cost 42 including handling! On Dec 19, 2007 8:36 AM, Ed Bratt wrote: > Vance: > > What happened to Permatex Hylomar is told on the British Hylomar site: > > "Hylomar Ltd in the past has sold a solvent-free version of Universal Blue > to Permatex in bulk, which they have repackaged as Permatex Hylomar HPF > with > our approval. This started at a point when Loctite (the former parent > company of Permatex) was Hylomar's US distributor. Since then Loctite was > acquired by Henkel, which sold Permatex in a MBO, which was then acquired > by > ITW, and Hylomar has set up its own US distribution company. Some Permatex > HPF may still be available in retail locations, but it is unclear how long > stocks will last.. " > > http://www.hylomar.com/ > > It appears that Hylomar in Britain quit selling Universal Blue to Permatex > and are selling their product through Hylomar USA. > > The Hylomar USA site lists products and applications of available Hylomar > products. > > http://www.hylomar-usa.com/_resources/_html/products.html > > Ed Bratt > Regina, Saskatchewan > 1976 TR6 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Navarrette, Vance" > To: "Vito" ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; > > Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 9:57 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] water pump install > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From peb3 at cornell.edu Wed Dec 19 12:00:33 2007 From: peb3 at cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 14:00:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: <121920071837.8484.476964F000022AFC0000212422007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcas t.net> References: <121920071837.8484.476964F000022AFC0000212422007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcas t.net> Message-ID: A nice touring video. I especially like the background music. A general question: is the terrain and vegetation typical southern California countryside? I guess I've become spoiled by green hills and trees. -- Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) Keeneyville, PA (visit our new location!) '71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Wed Dec 19 12:54:53 2007 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 11:54:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hylomar gasket sealer Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD63C9E@kb1.mossmotors.com> >Wow, just ordered one three ounce tube of the "racing" version [higher >adhesion]. Cost 42 including handling! I don't just usually jump in for stuff like this, but $42 for a tube of gasket sealer! OK, it's the racing version. I assume that would be the solvent free version which is generally not recommended because it stays too fluid. We, Moss Motors, sell genuine Hylomar Universal blue. It is repackaged by a distributor under their own name, but stilled called Hylomar. It stays tacky long after use. I use it on my valve cover gasket - easy on/easy off - and wherever I want a good seal. Our part number is 221-556, $8.95 for 1.5 oz. Yes, this is commercial, but I just couldn't help myself. My friends would want to know.... Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 daily driver From dkspence at telus.net Wed Dec 19 13:20:07 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 13:20:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yup. Get a faster connection and /or computer. What's with all the hardtops? I suppose you CA types have AC too.... On 19-Dec-07, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: BearTranserv at aol.com > Date: December 19, 2007 9:55:48 AM MST (CA) > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Cool Triumph video > > > Am I the only one that has problems with some youtube videos? > Most play > fine, but occasionally, and the TR video is one of them, they take > a few seconds > to start, play for two seconds, stop for 10-15 or more, play 2-3 > seconds and > so on. If I let it play through all the way and hit replay, it > plays fine. > I usually don't have the patience to do that. > > Anyone know a fix? > > http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fGQMac_kMjI From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Dec 19 14:15:06 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 16:15:06 EST Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: In a message dated 12/19/2007 8:56:50 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, BearTranserv at aol.com writes: Am I the only one that has problems with some youtube videos? I had the same problems with AOL....I went on Internet Explorer and all of the videos worked fine. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Wed Dec 19 14:17:34 2007 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 13:17:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Alvin and the Chipmunks Message-ID: <111363.43645.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Anyone seen this movie yet? In the trailer and Jason Lee is driving a red TR-4. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping From dkspence at telus.net Wed Dec 19 14:32:17 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 14:32:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: TR3, TR4A top down. TR6.. most had hard tops otherwise it was top up. The camera car did have the rear window unzipped. Hardly counts. TR 6 drivers must have been afraid of the sun. On 18-Dec-07, at 11:28 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "Randall" > Date: December 18, 2007 10:37:14 PM MST (CA) > To: "'Triumphs'" > Subject: Re: [TR] Cool Triumph video > > >> It's not raining and it doesn't appear to be cold......why >> does everybody have their tops up? > > Dunno ... I see some with tops down and some others with hard > tops. Likely > the remaining few didn't want to take a chance on mussing their > hair, or > interior. And some do find October in CA to be rather cool at > 40-50 mph. > (Tho likely not anyone who lives where it snows ) > > Randall From BearTranserv at aol.com Wed Dec 19 15:06:52 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 17:06:52 EST Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: In a message dated 12/19/2007 10:57:11 AM Mountain Standard Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: You need a faster pipeline. I thought that might be it, but I can click on one youtube and see it fine, and the next will be slow. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From BearTranserv at aol.com Wed Dec 19 15:16:32 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 17:16:32 EST Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: In a message dated 12/19/2007 2:15:06 PM Mountain Standard Time, Chip19474 writes: I had the same problems with AOL....I went on Internet Explorer and all of the videos worked fine. Yep, AOL was apparently the problem. I sent it to my work address, on Outlook which defaults to IE and sure nuff, it worked just fine. I'm on DSL by the way. Bless all your pea pickin hearts for the the help.... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Dec 19 15:35:44 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 14:35:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: References: <121920071837.8484.476964F000022AFC0000212422007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <028001c8428f$7e5f23e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > A general question: is the terrain and vegetation typical southern > California countryside? I guess I've become spoiled by green hills > and trees. "Southern California" covers many different kinds of terrain. We have mountains, deserts, valleys, plains ... you name it, it's here somewhere. I live on a plain (actually a prehistoric river delta I believe) not far above sea level; but on a clear day I can see mountains that reach to 6000 feet from my front yard and it's only a 1.5 hour drive to a ski resort that is open today (tho there's only a few feet of snow as yet). However, there is a fair amount of terrain similar to that in the video. And as I think someone already mentioned, there is also some like that near the site for VTR/Triumphest 2009 (which is just 60 miles up the road from where that video was shot). Apropos of not much, here's a link to an aerial shot of Latigo canyon near Malibu. It's another good Triumph road in SoCA, and may be part of our local club's New Year's Day run (or not). http://www.ridesaroundla.com/images/LatigoCanyon.gif Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Dec 19 15:37:13 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 17:37:13 EST Subject: [TR] Factory TR3 Alloy Valve Cover Message-ID: Hey Guys, Christmas has come early for me for I have copped an original Triumph alloy valve cover. I paid way too much but still an amount south of the $1,100 Lucas battery on eBay. Besides I have some extra cash now that I have quit my 2.5 pack a day cigarette habit for 3 months now. This thing is a beautiful piece to behold. Cloisonne Triumph World with the Script Triumph lettering on a bronze plate in the center of a gleaming finned and polished aluminum cover. Just a few problems. If anyone has one of these, is the center plate riveted or screwed on? Someone has removed the plate to polish it on the one I have. This plate has a few flaws in the Powder Blue World water and the Signal Red script lettering. Anyone know if this can be repaired? Last and most important although the cover is complete with the unique, big & goofy hold down screws it is missing the oil filler cap. Anyone have a clue where to find a suitable replacement? This thing is sweet, not sure where I will use it. Life is Good, Darrell 62 TR4 CKD 63 TR3B 63 TR4 **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Dec 19 16:25:50 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:25:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: <704DFADBB49A4F6DB736438143C850AD@GeoPC> References: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <007101c841e9$276958e0$763c0aa0$@net> <704DFADBB49A4F6DB736438143C850AD@GeoPC> Message-ID: <200712191825.50702.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 19 December 2007 12:55 pm, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > Although the Triumphest judging is a 'Funcours' they do require the top to > be up. As there is usually a drive immediately following I just take the > points deduction rather than put the TR4 top on just for the show then off > for the drive. > > Most TR4 owners will understand. > > Geo > Was it my poor eyesight or did I see some rain drops on the windshield of the 6 about 3/4 through the show? Maybe that is why the tops are up? But it is not something to watch up here in the snow with both cars in the garage and about 1 foot of snow on the ground. Bob From spitlist at cox.net Wed Dec 19 15:44:34 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 15:44:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: <121920071823.18744.476961AB000B129D0000493822007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <121920071823.18744.476961AB000B129D0000493822007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001a01c84290$ba684aa0$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Same goes for Mk1 and Mk2 Spits. In some states it requires a building permit to put up your top! Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 11:24 AM To: Geo & Kathleen Hahn; Joe Laurito; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Cool Triumph video From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" > Although the Triumphest judging is a 'Funcours' they do require the top to > be up. As there is usually a drive immediately following I just take the > points deduction rather than put the TR4 top on just for the show then off > for the drive. > > Most TR4 owners will understand. Got that. Newton's laws of inertia as regards TR4 tops: A TR4 hood erected tends to stay erected. A TR4 hood removed tends to stay removed. The Miata top on the other hand changes state quite often. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Dec 19 15:47:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 14:47:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <028201c84291$30c6b880$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Anyone know a fix? One solution, tho perhaps overkill, is to use one of the various "grabber" programs to download the video to your hard drive first. I've been using this one http://www.codecentral.co.za/index.php/2007/05/10/youtube-grabber/ which also has an option to convert the file to MPG format (which is easier to play than the native FLV format). I've also heard various bad things about AOL's client software, so if you can use Firefox or even IE, it might work better without having to download first. Of course there are other things to check as well, eg that your hard disk is not heavily fragmented and you don't have too many other things running (especially viruses and spyware). Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Dec 19 16:33:06 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:33:06 EST Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: Hey Randall, Yes, so way cool! Makes me want to fire up the Six and go for a spin!. Whoops that may be bad for it is 27 degrees out tonight. What's with all the Hard Tops? Where's the Spitfires? Just one or two TR3's with a few TR4's mixed in? Looks like some good roads to catch some gears on. Yeah what's with all those tops being up? Shoot I even mess Beverly's hair if we are on a Rallye! Cheers Dude, Darrell **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From flashtr3 at cox.net Wed Dec 19 16:46:10 2007 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 15:46:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hylomar gasket sealer References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD63C9E@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <000f01c84299$55030570$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Peter, I am in agreement...if you have product that can serve the same results, why not inform your friends. Keep up the good work. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Arakelian, Peter To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 11:54 AM Subject: [TR] Hylomar gasket sealer >Wow, just ordered one three ounce tube of the "racing" version [higher >adhesion]. Cost 42 including handling! I don't just usually jump in for stuff like this, but $42 for a tube of gasket sealer! OK, it's the racing version. I assume that would be the solvent free version which is generally not recommended because it stays too fluid. We, Moss Motors, sell genuine Hylomar Universal blue. It is repackaged by a distributor under their own name, but stilled called Hylomar. It stays tacky long after use. I use it on my valve cover gasket - easy on/easy off - and wherever I want a good seal. Our part number is 221-556, $8.95 for 1.5 oz. Yes, this is commercial, but I just couldn't help myself. My friends would want to know.... Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 daily driver _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Wed Dec 19 16:49:27 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:49:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Factory TR3 Alloy Valve Cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Just a few problems. If anyone has one of these, is the center plate > riveted or screwed on? Someone has removed the plate to polish it on the one I > have. This plate has a few flaws in the Powder Blue World water and the Signal > Red script lettering. Anyone know if this can be repaired? Last and most > important although the cover is complete with the unique, big & goofy hold down > screws it is missing the oil filler cap. Anyone have a clue where to find a > suitable replacement? Darrell: It's riveted on, if my poor old bramaged dain recalls correctly. I am not going out to the shed to look, though. It's too cold. Householder had some cloisonne plates made a while back. A good while back. I went to a Pep Boys or equivalent and tried oil caps until I found one that fit, but of course, I don't do concours d'elegance. John From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 19 16:55:24 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 23:55:24 -0000 Subject: [TR] More updates on the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive website Message-ID: <003f01c8429a$a03edbd0$0201a8c0@Bevan> The website has undergone further updates as of 19 Dec 2007 with some new pix and revamped pages. In case you missed our last posting, the Trust has been given - yes, given - a concours (modified) 1978 Spitfire to UK spec. This will be used as an initial fundraiser and eventually disposed of as a raffle prize. You can see initial pix of the car by clicking on the website link below. Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Dec 19 17:54:48 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 19:54:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video In-Reply-To: <704DFADBB49A4F6DB736438143C850AD@GeoPC> References: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <007101c841e9$276958e0$763c0aa0$@net> <704DFADBB49A4F6DB736438143C850AD@GeoPC> Message-ID: <200712191954.49053.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 19 December 2007 12:55 pm, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > Although the Triumphest judging is a 'Funcours' they do require the top to > be up. As there is usually a drive immediately following I just take the > points deduction rather than put the TR4 top on just for the show then off > for the drive. > > Most TR4 owners will understand. > > Geo George, Yes I understand. I had to put the top up to drive to my daughter's wedding and it was only the 2nd time I had it up since the restoration was completed. I do admit it is a chore but it is a tad easier than the 3. I do have it adjusted quite nice and on the 50 mile ride not 1 drop of water in the interior. The first and I hope the last time I have to drive in the rain. The 4 top does seal a bit better than the 3. Driest I have ever been in a LBC in a driving rain storm. It is an AMCO top and with all those top snaps and hooks + the overlap on the front bow creates a real snug fit even at 60+ MPH. ALso lots of work putting it down and hiding it under the interior. Similar to the 3 with the separate hood stick cover but still easier, only 6 side snaps + the 4 on the carpet. All part of the fun of LBC ownership. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Dec 19 17:18:27 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 16:18:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] Speaker ingenuity In-Reply-To: <007e01c841f7$5ddb2670$19917350$@net> References: <7486AE29-0350-4214-AF0D-25E79F174EA1@cox.net> <007e01c841f7$5ddb2670$19917350$@net> Message-ID: <029a01c8429d$d8082410$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > My thoughts are that the TR3 is so damn loud, you'll never be able to > appreciate the music anyway. FWIW, I enjoyed the music in my TR3A with just an ordinary CD-MP3 player rated 20W RMS per channel IIRC. And although I did have a big alternator, I believe the stock generator would do if you didn't want to run the headlights, heater & wipers at the same time. Audio books are wonderful things too, especially on long trips. Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 19 17:40:47 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 00:40:47 -0000 Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video References: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><007101c841e9$276958e0$763c0aa0$@net><704DFADBB49A4F6DB736438143C850AD@GeoPC> <200712191954.49053.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <00cc01c842a0$f69c0600$0201a8c0@Bevan> Bob Labuz wrote: > I had to put the top up to drive to my daughter's wedding and it was only the > 2nd time I had it up since the restoration was completed. Bob - reminds me of an incident I saw this last summer that had me laughing so much I had to stop the car. I was following an ancient but immaculate Bentley tourer in which reposed a bride with her Daddy. They were going to her wedding. As I was inside my car, I don't know if there was a sudden gust of wind or too much turbulence in the Bentley's reat seat but whatever the cause, Daddy was wearing a 'syrup' (toop?) and it blew off! It wasn't you in the Bentley was it? Apologies for my insensitiveness to toop wearers. Jonmac From wbeech at flash.net Wed Dec 19 18:44:04 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:44:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alvin and the Chipmunks In-Reply-To: <111363.43645.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20071220014449.C58E61879F5@autox.team.net> Not yet, but I did see a nice white TR3 in a Perry Mason episode last week. Looked like the same car I saw in a different episode a few months back, probably belonged to a crew member./ Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kurt Johnson Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 2:18 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Alvin and the Chipmunks Anyone seen this movie yet? In the trailer and Jason Lee is driving a red TR-4. ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007 9:40 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007 9:40 PM From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Dec 19 18:53:59 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:53:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alvin and the Chipmunks In-Reply-To: <20071220014449.C58E61879F5@autox.team.net> References: <20071220014449.C58E61879F5@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <61520644DBFD4367B5BE0CC678D72970@GeoPC> Possibly this... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Perry.JPG And this... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/tr-klink3.JPG the latter being driven by 'Colonel Klink'. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "wbeech" To: "'Kurt Johnson'" ; Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 6:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Alvin and the Chipmunks > Not yet, but I did see a nice white TR3 in a Perry Mason episode last > week. > Looked like the same car I saw in a different episode a few months back, > probably belonged to a crew member./ > > Bill B From wbeech at flash.net Wed Dec 19 19:44:01 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 19:44:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alvin and the Chipmunks In-Reply-To: <61520644DBFD4367B5BE0CC678D72970@GeoPC> Message-ID: <20071220024448.D8FEA187A6B@autox.team.net> Yep, those are the ones.... Where do you get this stuff? Do you think they are the same car? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L "I love it, she hates it... the car, of course!" -----Original Message----- From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn [mailto:ahwahnee at cybertrails.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 6:54 PM To: wbeech; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Alvin and the Chipmunks Possibly this... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Perry.JPG And this... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/tr-klink3.JPG the latter being driven by 'Colonel Klink'. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "wbeech" To: "'Kurt Johnson'" ; Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 6:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Alvin and the Chipmunks > Not yet, but I did see a nice white TR3 in a Perry Mason episode last > week. > Looked like the same car I saw in a different episode a few months back, > probably belonged to a crew member./ > > Bill B No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007 9:40 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007 9:40 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Dec 19 20:25:47 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 22:25:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Do You Have? Message-ID: <003b01c842b8$054b8470$210110ac@bobspc> OK..........I need listers who have BOTH Herman's Toyota 5 speed transmission conversion AND Goodparts' Nissan differential upgrade. You have to have BOTH to respond and..........you need to remember! Did you have to shorten your driveshaft to make it all work? And by shorten I mean CUT a couple of inches off. If you did or didn't, what make model and year Triumph do you have and what, if anything, did you do to your driveshaft. I've heard both nothing and I cut 2" off. Oh yea....and whats the ratio on your diff? I've gotten mixed answers on this from folks who have that combination from Herman himself and Richard Good. So far there doesnt seem to be one answer. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007 9:40 PM From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Dec 19 21:26:55 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 23:26:55 EST Subject: [TR] Do You Have? Message-ID: I sure would trust Herman on this one. He has worked on these things a long time. He worries about what happens if you have TWO slip joints in series, which you will have. He doesn't want the transmission to get screwed up by a drive shaft bouncing back and forth with no restraint.It must be annoying when someone else's mod affects what your mod is supposed to be. Best, Mike Moore **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Dec 20 06:14:38 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 08:14:38 EST Subject: [TR] Cool Triumph video Message-ID: In a message dated 12/19/2007 4:07:30 PM Central Standard Time, BearTranserv at aol.com writes: > In a message dated 12/19/2007 10:57:11 AM Mountain Standard Time, > Dave1massey at cs.com writes: > > You need a faster pipeline. > > I thought that might be it, but I can click on one youtube and see it fine, > > and the next will be slow. > Maybe dependent on other activity on your trunk/branch line at the time. Or noise level and lost packets. Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Dec 20 06:17:37 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 08:17:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Do You Have? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004101c8430a$b5700310$210110ac@bobspc> Mike, I'll definitely go with what Herman recommends. I'm just curious as to what other folks have experienced. And I'll share the results with Herman. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MMoore8425 at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 11:27 PM To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Do You Have? I sure would trust Herman on this one. He has worked on these things a long time. He worries about what happens if you have TWO slip joints in series, which you will have. He doesn't want the transmission to get screwed up by a drive shaft bouncing back and forth with no restraint.It must be annoying when someone else's mod affects what your mod is supposed to be. Best, Mike Moore **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1190 - Release Date: 12/19/2007 7:37 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1190 - Release Date: 12/19/2007 7:37 PM From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Dec 20 06:24:00 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 08:24:00 EST Subject: [TR] Hylomar gasket sealer Message-ID: In a message dated 12/19/2007 1:54:39 PM Central Standard Time, arakelianp at mossmotors.com writes: > We, Moss Motors, sell genuine Hylomar Universal blue. It is repackaged > by a distributor under their own name, but stilled called Hylomar. It > stays tacky long after use. I use it on my valve cover gasket - easy > on/easy off - and wherever I want a good seal. > Our part number is 221-556, $8.95 for 1.5 oz. > Makes a GREAT stocking stuffer! Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Dec 20 07:42:58 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 14:42:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] Good book. In-Reply-To: <200712191825.50702.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <007101c841e9$276958e0$763c0aa0$@net> <704DFADBB49A4F6DB736438143C850AD@GeoPC> <200712191825.50702.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Most of you TR freaks probably know about this already but I think it bears mention for those who might not. I received a Christmas gift from a friend. It is a book titled "Triumph Cars in America" by Michael Cook. I haven't read it yet but it has tons of nice photos of all sorts of TRs in it. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_122007 From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Dec 20 08:03:38 2007 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 09:03:38 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Tuning after rebuilt dizzy from Advanced Dist. Message-ID: <22387360.400941198163018512.JavaMail.root@vms074.mailsrvcs.net> Listers, sorry this is a long post (and I have read previous posts before asking) regarding my 1972 Triumph TR6. My car had Petronix ignition installed by British car shop "A". When they did it, they plugged off the retard unit at the dizzy and carb and statically timed the car. Last winter, I had my carbs rebuilt by Jeff at Paltech (thanks #1 to the list for this project). He returned them to me, I installed them and then took car to get dialed in to British car shop "B". They said that the retard should be connected and then ran the vacuum from the dizzy to straight under the carbs. At this point, I had no thermostatic switch in the radiator hose because it did not work, I never have an overheating problem, so I removed it. They tuned the car to 6 deg BTDC with vacuum plugged and 4 deg ATDC with vacuum connected and it ran great. At that time, they told me that the carbs were totally leaned out and that they wanted to tear them apart. I contacted Jeff and he advised me he had some dealings with British car shop "B" and I should not let them tear the carbs apart. This winter I sent my dizzy for rebuild to Jeff at Advanced Distributors (thanks #2 to the list for this project). He rebuilt the dizzy and I installed this week. I currently have the dizzy vacuum retard connected to the carb. Just got off the phone with Dave at TRF regarding a part I was ordering, and I asked him about this situation. He stated to me that the unit on my dizzy is a RETARD not an ADVANCE. He is saying I should rubber plug the retard unit at the dizzy and at the carbs and retune. So, my question to the list is are people connecting the retard straight to the carbs and using it? Or, should I plug both the dizzy and carbs and set my timing to a static 10 deg BTDC (which Jeff at AD just recommended as a starting point). Any advice is appreciated! Happly holidays to all! Craig H. Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 From rgperry at earthlink.net Thu Dec 20 09:02:26 2007 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 10:02:26 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [TR] Tuning after rebuilt dizzy from Advanced Dist. Message-ID: <12717123.1198166546680.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Craig, Since you have a working rebuilt distributor, I would use the vacuum hose between the distributor and carb. I run my 72 TR6 this way since the thermostatic switch quit working years ago. The vacuum retard only works at idle and starting the motor. One plugs the vacuum retard when setting the timing with a timing light at 800- 850 rpm to 10 to 12 degrees before top dead center. Or leave the vacuum line connected and adjust the timing to 4 degrees A.T.D.C. I usually set the timing around 12 degrees B.T.D.C. Regards, Greg Perry From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Dec 20 09:23:34 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 11:23:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tuning after rebuilt dizzy from Advanced Dist. References: <22387360.400941198163018512.JavaMail.root@vms074.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <000a01c84324$ab976ad0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Shop B is populated by idiots, and should be avoided. I completely agree with Jeff. Shop B wouldn't be Motorhead would it? Sounds like them. Vacuum advance and retard units are designed with various configurations for either manifold vacuum or port (venturi) vacuum. There is nothing on the vacuum cans to indicate which they are to be connected to. When swapping distributors around, you can make your life very interesting as connecting to the wrong port leads to remarkably wrong ignition timing under various running conditions. While vacuum advance can have some running benefits, vacuum retard does not. So blocking off vacuum retard and not using it is a very good practice, especially for performance. I also very much agree with Jeff on using the 10 DBTDC as a starting point. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 10:03 AM Subject: [TR] Tuning after rebuilt dizzy from Advanced Dist. > Listers, sorry this is a long post (and I have read previous posts before > asking) regarding my 1972 Triumph TR6. > > My car had Petronix ignition installed by British car shop "A". When they > did it, they plugged off the retard unit at the dizzy and carb and > statically timed the car. > > Last winter, I had my carbs rebuilt by Jeff at Paltech (thanks #1 to the > list for this project). He returned them to me, I installed them and then > took car to get dialed in to British car shop "B". They said that the > retard should be connected and then ran the vacuum from the dizzy to > straight under the carbs. At this point, I had no thermostatic switch in > the radiator hose because it did not work, I never have an overheating > problem, so I removed it. They tuned the car to 6 deg BTDC with vacuum > plugged and 4 deg ATDC with vacuum connected and it ran great. At that > time, they told me that the carbs were totally leaned out and that they > wanted to tear them apart. I contacted Jeff and he advised me he had some > dealings with British car shop "B" and I should not let them tear the > carbs apart. > > This winter I sent my dizzy for rebuild to Jeff at Advanced Distributors > (thanks #2 to the list for this project). He rebuilt the dizzy and I > installed this week. I currently have the dizzy vacuum retard connected > to the carb. > > Just got off the phone with Dave at TRF regarding a part I was ordering, > and I asked him about this situation. He stated to me that the unit on my > dizzy is a RETARD not an ADVANCE. He is saying I should rubber plug the > retard unit at the dizzy and at the carbs and retune. > > So, my question to the list is are people connecting the retard straight > to the carbs and using it? Or, should I plug both the dizzy and carbs and > set my timing to a static 10 deg BTDC (which Jeff at AD just recommended > as a starting point). > > Any advice is appreciated! Happly holidays to all! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Dec 20 09:29:28 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 08:29:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tuning after rebuilt dizzy from Advanced Dist. In-Reply-To: <22387360.400941198163018512.JavaMail.root@vms074.mailsrvcs.net> References: <22387360.400941198163018512.JavaMail.root@vms074.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <032301c84325$7dbeb400$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > So, my question to the list is are people connecting the > retard straight to the carbs and using it? Or, should I plug > both the dizzy and carbs and set my timing to a static 10 deg > BTDC (which Jeff at AD just recommended as a starting point). Either one is valid. The vacuum unit is a retard, meaning it only makes a difference at idle. It's only purpose was to reduce emissions at idle ... and IMO it's effectiveness was always suspect. Method #2 is simpler, but some people have had trouble getting the idle down without the retard. One of mine is connected, the other is not. If I were following in your footsteps, I would have had Jeff & Jeff make the appropriate mods to implement vacuum advance, just because it offers slightly better fuel economy. But IMO it's not worth going through all that again, just for the advance. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Dec 20 12:05:59 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 14:05:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard Message-ID: <476A76C7.28671.33B39C6@localhost> I sent this before but uncle mjb's size filter cut it off. On 20 Dec 2007 at 11:23, Nolan wrote: > While vacuum advance can have some running benefits, vacuum > retard does not. About VA, when you open the throttle the vacuum *diminishes*. At wide-open throttle VA does nothing at all. Ideally you set the timing for best full-power, regulated only by centrifugal advance which acts on engine speed, and that's the best it can be. So why VA? When the throttle is partly closed, air entering the cylinder is less dense so the flame front spreads more slowly. So you can afford to advance the timing to get more power *for that particular throttle setting*. Without VA the timing is delayed from ideal, but if you want more power at any time while driving you simply push the loud pedal more. The ultimate power limit is still the same, VA or no. Vacuum retard was for at-idle only, to improve emissions. As Nolan wrote: > ...nothing on the vacuum cans to indicate which... True, but you can figure it out on the dizzy. Note which on side of the diaphram the hose attaches. That's the direction the diaphram will move when vacuum is present. If it pulls the dizzy base plate the same direction as the dizzy shaft spins then vacuum will retard the timing. At the other end, if the port is on the manifold or the base of the carb its vacuum will go down progressively as the throttle is opened, so it must be meant for VA. If the port is right at the butterfly its vacuum goes away completely as the throttle is opened even a little, so it must be meant for VR. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Dec 20 12:23:30 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 11:23:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard In-Reply-To: <476A76C7.28671.33B39C6@localhost> References: <476A76C7.28671.33B39C6@localhost> Message-ID: <035c01c8433d$cdd1bd80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > The ultimate power limit is still > the same, VA or no. Right. VA just gives better fuel mileage at cruise, and possibly somewhat improved part-throttle response. It does nothing at WOT (which is why most race cars don't bother). > At the other end, if the port is on the manifold or the base of the > carb its vacuum will go down progressively as the throttle is opened, Most if not all VA ports are 'timed', meaning they exhibit little or no vacuum at idle (so no advance at idle). This is done by putting the port right next to the butterfly, so with the butterfly fully closed, the port is on the upstream side. When the butterfly opens, it moves past the port, exposing the port to manifold vacuum. A VR port is also right at the butterfly, but on the opposite side so that it is exposed to manifold vacuum only when the butterfly is fully closed. When the butterfly opens, it moves past the port, blocking off the manifold vacuum from the port. So for ZS carbs (at least as used on Triumphs), the VR port (if present) is on the bottom and the VA port (if present) is on the top. But if the throttle plate (butterfly) turns the other way (like on an SU H6), the ports have to be swapped as well. Randall From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Dec 20 12:31:22 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 14:31:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard References: <476A76C7.28671.33B39C6@localhost> Message-ID: <000a01c8433e$eadbb600$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> > At the other end, if the port is on the manifold or the base of the > carb its vacuum will go down progressively as the throttle is opened, > so it must be meant for VA. If the port is right at the butterfly > its vacuum goes away completely as the throttle is opened even a > little, so it must be meant for VR. That's a dangerous assumption to make. Many a vacuum advance is connected to port vacuum, not manifold vacuum. The same for vacuum retards. That's why you've really got to know the parts to be sure which way things go. I've held what appeared to be identical distributors with identical looking vacuum advance cans, yet by the numbers one was meant to be connected to manifold vacuum while the other to port vacuum. This, in no small measure, is why many older cars with replaced distributors have some very odd performance characteristics. The ignition advance is working incorrectly because it's receiving the wrong vacuum signal. As well incorrect mechanical advances for the application. From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Dec 20 13:03:56 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 15:03:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 to TR6 clutch slave line? Message-ID: <002001c84343$756d5b30$c094df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am restoring a '60 TR3a that I bought as an abandoned project. The 30" to 40" line which runs from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder looks as though it had previously been repaired. It was made of a 'stiff and sturdy' plastic RED tube (1/4" in dia.), hose clamped to 3/16" British fittings. However, I want to replace it with a steel line. My local parts place has this piece, with the correct flared ends and fittings, but it is 3/16" line. It should be ok, but, I wanted to check first with the list. TIA. Secondly, I wish to ask, "since this 1/4" red plastic tube has proably worked fine with brake fluid for 30 years or so, I am wondering where it came from?" My local parts dealers don't have any plastic or rubber tubing that is meant to carry brake fluid. Seems like someone told me that a TR6 had a red plastic clutch line and most likely this 'tube' is therefore meant for brake fluid. My main question again is, "is a 3/16" clutch master to slave ok?" TIA, Paul Dorsey From vitop at sbcglobal.net Thu Dec 20 13:05:05 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 14:05:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] water pump install References: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp><001801c8425d$5c95c4d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> <8cbd782d0712191054t5209ea4fua52b7d2c1ece973c@mail.gmail.com> <001901c842a8$6b53c490$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <001901c84343$9e1b7ad0$6601a8c0@serverxp> WoW! Well, I looked on the internet for some and i found that they distribute it out of Cypress TX. (don't know if it's the main one in the US or just a distributor), but i just opened an account with them so i can buy it cheaper. if anyone wants any let me know. I have to go and pick it up so i want to get a bunch together first, but $30 for the racing version plus shipping. I have no idea what's going to be the cheapest way to ship it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Liam Gannon" To: "'Chuck Arnold'" ; "'Ed Bratt'" Cc: ; "'Vito'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 7:34 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] water pump install > Snip> Wow, just ordered one three ounce tube of the "racing" version > [higher > adhesion]. Cost 42 including handling > > Lire, Pesos, Dinare, Rubels or English Pounds? > Robert L. Gannon > http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Dec 20 13:07:25 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 15:07:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard In-Reply-To: <035c01c8433d$cdd1bd80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <476A76C7.28671.33B39C6@localhost> Message-ID: <476A852D.25214.373771D@localhost> On 20 Dec 2007 at 11:23, Randall wrote: > > The ultimate power limit is still the same, VA or no. > Right. VA just gives better fuel mileage at cruise, and possibly > somewhat improved part-throttle response. Which that's some of wot I said in my first note, now didn't I? The trimming process left out the description of why bigger engines had VA but little Spitfire engines didn't. > Most if not all VA ports are 'timed', meaning they exhibit little > or no vacuum at idle (so no advance at idle). This is done by > putting the port right next to the butterfly, so with the butterfly > fully closed, the port is on the upstream side. Ah! That makes perfect sense too, thus preventing VR and VA trying to counteract each other at idle! Idle is such an extreme running condition that it requires its own calibration anyway. I've seen few if any cars, certainly never owned one (that I remember), that had both VR and VA. It was always whatever it was - when a port disappears into a carb's innards, it goes wherever it goes. Thank you for that clarification. Actually, that VA off-at-idle behavior should make it even easier to distinguish whether a port is meant for VA or VR. One should be obviously off at idle, going on quickly with throttle, the other on at idle, going off quickly with throttle. If I absotively posilutely had to tell them apart, I'm sure it would be easy to test. Anyone who hooks them up backwards would have to do so without thinking carefully. Then again, lots of people do that, don't they? Thanks again. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spitlist at cox.net Thu Dec 20 13:32:31 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 13:32:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard References: <476A76C7.28671.33B39C6@localhost> <476A852D.25214.373771D@localhost> Message-ID: <004701c84347$728c5e80$2d02a8c0@Belkin> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 1:07 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard > Which that's some of wot I said in my first note, now didn't I? The > trimming process left out the description of why bigger engines had > VA but little Spitfire engines didn't. Jim, Talking generalities can get you into trouble. Your 1980 Spitfire didn't have vacuum advance but my 1963 certainly did. The changeover from advance to retard seems to have come at the time when emissions standards came into being (1968 I think). As has already been stated, retarding the timing at idle seems to lower the emissions. Joe C. From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Dec 20 13:58:26 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 15:58:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard In-Reply-To: <004701c84347$728c5e80$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <476A9122.7966.3A22B89@localhost> On 20 Dec 2007 at 13:32, Joe Curry wrote: > Talking generalities can get you into trouble. Heh! I talk generalities all the time and I never get into trouble from it. Never. Not at all. Generalities are perfectly harmless. Now, what did I do with my list of exceptions? I had a big canonical list of exceptions, useful for all occasions. Geez, I must have put it in an odd place the last time I used it. I never do anything like that. Can't imagine why tho', I always put it in the same place. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Dec 20 14:08:29 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 13:08:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard In-Reply-To: <476A852D.25214.373771D@localhost> References: <476A76C7.28671.33B39C6@localhost> <476A852D.25214.373771D@localhost> Message-ID: <037c01c8434c$79773490$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Which that's some of wot I said in my first note, now didn't I? Indeed, I was agreeing with you ... Randall From alistair.hewitt at gmail.com Thu Dec 20 14:47:50 2007 From: alistair.hewitt at gmail.com (Alistair Hewitt) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 16:47:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] water pump install In-Reply-To: <001901c84343$9e1b7ad0$6601a8c0@serverxp> References: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp> <001801c8425d$5c95c4d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> <8cbd782d0712191054t5209ea4fua52b7d2c1ece973c@mail.gmail.com> <001901c842a8$6b53c490$6601a8c0@Robert> <001901c84343$9e1b7ad0$6601a8c0@serverxp> Message-ID: You can get Blue Hylomar pretty cheap on ebay.co.uk. I bought three large tubes last winter from a guy who had similar auctions going quite often at the time. Total price with shipping was about $15 and took less than a week to arrive. Might be worth a look? Cheers Alistair On Dec 20, 2007 3:05 PM, Vito wrote: > WoW! Well, I looked on the internet for some and i found that they > distribute it out of Cypress TX. (don't know if it's the main one in the > US > or just a distributor), but i just opened an account with them so i can > buy > it cheaper. if anyone wants any let me know. I have to go and pick it up > so > i want to get a bunch together first, but $30 for the racing version plus > shipping. I have no idea what's going to be the cheapest way to ship it. > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Robert Liam Gannon" > To: "'Chuck Arnold'" ; "'Ed Bratt'" > Cc: ; "'Vito'" ; > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 7:34 PM > Subject: RE: [6pack] water pump install > > > > Snip> Wow, just ordered one three ounce tube of the "racing" version > > [higher > > adhesion]. Cost 42 including handling > > > > Lire, Pesos, Dinare, Rubels or English Pounds? > > Robert L. Gannon > > http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Dec 20 14:54:21 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 13:54:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 to TR6 clutch slave line? In-Reply-To: <002001c84343$756d5b30$c094df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <002001c84343$756d5b30$c094df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <038001c84352$e0cefd20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > My local > parts place has this piece, with the correct flared ends and > fittings, Be careful about those "correct" fittings. The nut that goes into the MC, for example, can be subtly different. The threads match and the nut appears to screw in, but if there is not a blank section of nut (no threads) at the tip, the threaded portion will bottom in the MC and possibly prevent the flare from being properly compressed. Attempts to fix the leak by overtightening can break (and ruin) the MC. > but it > is 3/16" line. It should be ok, but, I wanted to check first > with the list. That was original ... works fine for me. Don't forget though, that you also need a flexible section to allow for engine motion and vibration. The original setup had a bracket on the frame near the slave cylinder, where the metal pipe joined with a rubber section that ran to the slave. > Secondly, I wish to ask, "since this 1/4" red plastic > tube has proably > worked fine with brake fluid for 30 years or so, I am > wondering where it came > from?" My local parts dealers don't have any plastic or > rubber tubing that is > meant to carry brake fluid. Problem is that "brake fluid" is used in brakes, which requires tubing that will withstand very high pressures (over 1000 psi). The safety aspect also requires that the lines be way overrated for the actual pressure. Most plastic or rubber won't take that much (rubber brake lines are specially reinforced with other materials). But clutches operate on lower pressures and are not safety-critical, so it should be easier to find suitable plastic line for a clutch. I don't know what the original TR6 line was made of, but I would guess that ordinary nylon tubing would work; as long as it's rated to 400 psi and 200F or so. Nylon is commonly used for brake fluid reservoirs I believe, so it should be compatible chemically. Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Dec 20 15:59:19 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 17:59:19 EST Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard Message-ID: Guys, The 68 TR250 & early 69 TR6 to my knowledge were the only Triumph's to have both VR & VA. I can attest to the total nightmarer trying to tune these as originally designed with non adjustable ZS's too boot. OH MY! Thanks to the Feds and Emmision Controls. If not for those Guys my 250 and Six would have the "Rest Of The World" Lucas PI set up. Darrell 68 TR250 71 TR6 BTW, Did you guys hear the latest from the Greenies, who say that Chicks should not favor Sports Car Type Guys for they are ruining the environment? I believe I need to go puke. **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From DLylis at aol.com Thu Dec 20 16:00:08 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 18:00:08 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 to TR6 clutch slave line? Message-ID: Paul, I went through this a year or so ago and I don't recall the exact details other than the 3A slave will not receive the TR6 hydraulic line or vice versa. My 3A slave went to that great place in the sky and since I had a brand new TR6 slave on the shelf I installed it. The fittings are not the same. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Dec 20 16:07:40 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 18:07:40 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 to TR6 clutch slave line? Message-ID: I also installed a TR6 slave. My clutch pedal got very hard to push though. I have found the correct 1" bore TR3 cylinders and that's what I'm now going to put in, Mike Moore **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Dec 20 15:56:35 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 15:56:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alvin and the Chipmunks Message-ID: <70B24D8439BD4F838FF1BA4C4E4D0906@GeoPC> Could be the same car though the episodes aired several seasons apart... On 3/22/58 (Season 1): http://www.tv.com/perry-mason/the-case-of-the-desperate-daughter/episode/79415/summary.html?tag=ep_list;title;26 And on 12/10/60 (Season 4): http://www.tv.com/perry-mason/the-case-of-the-red-riding-boots/episode/79490/summary.html?tag=ep_list;title;10 Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "wbeech" To: "'Geo & Kathleen Hahn'" ; Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 7:44 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Alvin and the Chipmunks > Yep, those are the ones.... Where do you get this stuff? Do you think > they > are the same car? > > Bill B From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Dec 20 16:18:58 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 16:18:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Good book. In-Reply-To: References: <018a01c841c0$6ea7dc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><007101c841e9$276958e0$763c0aa0$@net><704DFADBB49A4F6DB736438143C850AD@GeoPC> <200712191825.50702.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Excellent book I think. On page 113 it shows the story board for a TR4A commercial that was shot on the road by our house. If anyone knows where to find a copy of that commercial I would like to hear about it. Several Triumph commercials on UTube but I haven't found this one. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:42 AM Subject: [TR] Good book. > Most of you TR freaks probably know about this already but I think it > bears > mention for those who might not. > > I received a Christmas gift from a friend. It is a book titled "Triumph > Cars > in America" by Michael Cook. I haven't read it yet but it has tons of > nice > photos of all sorts of TRs in it. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Dec 20 16:21:37 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 15:21:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c8435f$11db06a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > The 68 TR250 & early 69 TR6 to my knowledge were the only > Triumph's to have > both VR & VA. Early Stags also had both, as did at least 69 GT6+. The documentation I have handy indicates that the 69 Spitfire Mk 3 also had the spark retarded at idle, although it did not use a vacuum capsule to retard the spark. > I can attest to the total nightmarer trying to > tune these as > originally designed with non adjustable ZS's too boot. ISTR the TR250 was further complicated by using manifold vacuum for the retard, with a vacuum switch operated by the throttle linkage to kill the retard when the throttle was opened. Likely a symptom of BL being caught off-guard by the retard requirement, and not having time to get a suitable vacuum port added to the carbs. At any rate, my 71 Stag seemed to run pretty good with both VR & VA. The second Stag has a 73 motor in it with only the VR (which is disabled) ... my plan is to eventually add VA to it as soon as I find a UK-spec advance capsule at a reasonable price (Paddock's were sold out when I last checked). Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Dec 20 16:35:25 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 18:35:25 EST Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard Message-ID: I had an early Stag and it was vacuum OEM retard only. The vacuum capsules sold as replacements though had both retard and advance possibilities. Mike Moore **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From jtnichols at comcast.net Thu Dec 20 16:36:53 2007 From: jtnichols at comcast.net (John T Nichols) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 18:36:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] A TR5 in Georgia. Message-ID: <476AFC95.8040909@comcast.net> http://motorcars-of-georgia.ebizautos.com/detail-1968-triumph-tr5-roadster-2431726.html From lbcs at embarqmail.com Thu Dec 20 16:37:58 2007 From: lbcs at embarqmail.com (Bill Miller (LBCs)) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 18:37:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Extremely rare TR6 filter (on eBay)... Message-ID: <00b401c84361$5aeb2df0$0200a8c0@bills> . didn't quite make it as high as the battery. Would anyone like it who could actually use it? I'll have Tony ship it to you. I don't need it. I just wanted to help the cause. Bill From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Dec 20 18:09:21 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 20:09:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Toyota 5 Speed/Nissan Diff Message-ID: <000001c8436e$2049f340$210110ac@bobspc> Last night I posted a question about who had the Toyota 5 speed and Nissan diff combo and if they had to shorten their drive shaft. I got a lot of off list responses and no one had shortened their drive shaft except for one person. This morning I had a 30 minute call with Herman to understand (or try to) why he now says it HAS to be shortened. Basically, there are 2 slips in this set up: Slip 1 is the flange on the rear of the tranny and Slip 2 is in the drive shaft. Both slips can move in and out, effectively lengthening or shortening the overall length. If the tranny flange is moved in too far it will damage the rear seal over time causing it to leak and eventually leak bad enough to cause total fluid loss. It's happened to one owner already while on a drive & destroyed the tranny. If the flange moves out too far (more then 7/8" from the seal) it causes a whipping action which will wreck the tranny bearings. Herman says to have the driveshaft cut to length, remove the slip and end up with a solid drive shaft with no clamp. I'm only the messenger so If you have questions, you might want to contact Herman directly. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1190 - Release Date: 12/19/2007 7:37 PM From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Dec 20 18:52:38 2007 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 19:52:38 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Thanks list Re: Re: Tuning after rebuilt dizzy from Advanced Dist. Message-ID: <3251142.34291198201958218.JavaMail.root@vms172.mailsrvcs.net> Thanks to all who responded to my question. I will say that the topic definitely generates some opinions. I am going to try and modify my timing with the vacuum and if it does not do it, I will set the static at 10 deg BTDC and plug everything up. Merry Christmas and thanks. I need to get busy. Craig Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Dec 20 19:18:22 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 21:18:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] clearing & sealing the brake lines Message-ID: <00b201c84377$cbaf6d60$c094df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> A couple other questions about brake systems: (even though I should have learned this several years ago) At that time, many of 'my' flares/fittings leaked. Randall proably hit the nail on the head, reminding me post-facto that British fittings are unthreaded at the end. Well, what about the flares themselves? There are several types: single, double, bubble or double trouble, etc. 1. Seriously, do American Bubble flares interchange with British Bubble flares? Or is it just a matter of getting the right kind of 'fittings'? 2. Can there be a 'expertly-done' (brass) union on a brake line. The reason is simply to extend the line. 3. I've blown thru my brake lines with 100psi compressed but 'dry' air, then brake cleaner followed by more compressed air. I have not removed or disassembled my new master cylinders or slave cylinder (although, unfortunately, I let some Dot 4 brake fluid dry in them). I have heeded the advice regarding not spraying brake cleaner into any of these cylinders. My question is: can I blow thru both the master and slave cylinders by putting the 100psi nozzle (for only 2 seconds) up to either 'one' of the two brake fluid ports and blowing them clear? Thanks, Paul Dorsey , 60 TR3A From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Thu Dec 20 20:29:00 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 21:29:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <70B24D8439BD4F838FF1BA4C4E4D0906@GeoPC> References: <70B24D8439BD4F838FF1BA4C4E4D0906@GeoPC> Message-ID: <200712210329.lBL3T9bj436212@ns3.geneseo.net> >unsubscribe triumphs at autox.team.net uncle jack From dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz Thu Dec 20 21:13:49 2007 From: dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz (Alan & Lyn Dunscombe) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 17:13:49 +1300 Subject: [TR] New rear axle Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20071221171132.03a77800@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> Greetings to all readers. Having read the list with interest for some time it is my turn to ask a question... Having driven my long door TR2 for 25 odd years with the original (weak) rear axle while progressively modifying the motor to produce significantly more power than original I have finally decided to splash out and replace the said rear axle with the later stronger one, even though I have never broken a half-shaft.. After some time searching worldwide for a suitable second-hand unit I located a very reasonably priced one from the fine folks at Team Triumph. (the variation in prices I got would astound you!) and the unit arrived at my home recently. Thanks guys. This unit is in very good condition, as described, and my mechanic has looked at the ring gear & pinion and proclaimed them to be in excellent condition and indicating that the alignment is virtually perfect. Now, my question is as follows, do I need to pay to get the whole unit completely stripped down and then have to get the ring gear & pinion set up again? I have heard conflicting stories that if you do this to a ring gear & pinion that have been driven previously then they have a good chance of not matching up so well the second time and wearing out quickly or whining. Come on Randall & Uncle Jack, you guys must have replaced a number of diffs / rear ends over the years, what are your recommendations? I have been told by many knowledgeable people over the years that the diffs in later solid axle TR's are almost indestructible except under severe racing conditions. If it is fine now should I "let sleeping dogs lie"? I await the list's wisdom, Regards from "The Deep South" (where it is summer and I am driving the TR whenever possible.) Alan From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Dec 20 23:04:01 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 22:04:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] New rear axle In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20071221171132.03a77800@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> Message-ID: <20071221060401.WUTQ2629.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > Now, my question is as follows, do I need to pay to get the > whole unit > completely stripped down Perhaps I am missing something ... why would you want to do that ? If the gear patterns are good, and the bearings don't feel rough, then I'd just install it. Change the pinion seal & inner oil seal, since they are easy to get to. But if the outer grease seals in the hubs don't appears to have been leaking, I'd leave them alone. Don't forget to check and adjust if necessary the axle end-float. It's probably fine if none of the shims were lost when it was taken out, but I'd check it anyway. > If it is fine now should I "let sleeping dogs lie"? I'm a firm believer in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it !" Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Dec 20 23:11:15 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 22:11:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] clearing & sealing the brake lines In-Reply-To: <00b201c84377$cbaf6d60$c094df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071221061116.XAGJ2629.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > 1. Seriously, do American Bubble flares interchange with > British Bubble > flares? I believe they do. However, I don't think there are any 'bubble' flares on a TR3A. > 2. Can there be a 'expertly-done' (brass) union on a brake > line. The reason is simply to extend the line. Should be OK, if it's a proper brake union (definitely NOT an ordinarily plumbing union or compression fitting) and is bolted down so it can't vibrate. Randall From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Fri Dec 21 04:06:29 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 06:06:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard References: <476A76C7.28671.33B39C6@localhost><476A852D.25214.373771D@localhost> <004701c84347$728c5e80$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <004e01c843c1$8a72af20$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> To say vacuum retard replaced vacuum advance is wrong. Vacuum advance did not disappear, and is still in use today, albeit usually electronically. Nor is it uncommon to find both vacuum advance and vacuum retard on a single distributor. Frequently it's nothing more than a tap on both sides of the diaphragm on the same can. Some TR6's came this way for example. As did one of my Spitfires as I recall. Nor can one correctly say vacuum advance connects manifold vacuum and retard connected to port vacuum. They are mixed. It depends on the design. Nor is all port vacuum the same. I've seen ports tapped into the main venturi, and into various areas alongside the throttle plate. All will produce different vacuum signals. Some of you might want to read this, to follow along Triumphantly. http://www.tr6web.com/Documents/tr6/advretard.html You can take a look at Paul Teglers chart of Lucas and Delco Remy distributors and see the many differences in the vacuum advances. Amounts of advance, vacuum for that amount, and the different port or manifold sourcing of that vacuum signal. As well vacuum retard. http://www.teglerizer.com/mgstuff/advance_curves.htm Many of you are placing the advent of vacuum retard much too late on the timeline. It showed up around 1966 in California, was nationally common by the late 60's, and virtually universal by 1970. If you wish to read a fairly decent 101 primer on ignition timing, you might enjoy this one. http://www.corvette-restoration.com/Tech_Papers/Timing101.pdf If you want to go beyond that, Dave Vizard's book How to Build Horsepower, Volume 1 has an excellent section on ignition timing, covering vacuum advance particularly well. From dwillner at ptd.net Fri Dec 21 06:16:52 2007 From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 08:16:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tin-Zinc plating kit Message-ID: <000c01c843d3$c09b9000$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> I'm thinking about improving the appearance of a lot of smaller hardware and odds and ends this winter and was wondering if anyone has any experience using any of the plating kits available today, I know Eastwoods sells a fairly inexpensive Tin-Zinc kit that seems to produce some pretty nice results. I've also looked at some of the cad plating systems, a bit more expensive but a real nice finish. Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Dec 21 06:33:48 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 08:33:48 EST Subject: [TR] Tin-Zinc plating kit Message-ID: In a message dated 12/21/2007 7:17:20 AM Central Standard Time, dwillner at ptd.net writes: > I'm thinking about improving the appearance of a lot of smaller hardware > and > odds and ends this winter and was wondering if anyone has any experience > using > any of the plating kits available today, I know Eastwoods sells a fairly > inexpensive Tin-Zinc kit that seems to produce some pretty nice results. > I've > also looked at some of the cad plating systems, a bit more expensive but a > real nice finish. Thanks > I have the Eastwood kit. It works but the finish is not as nice as items I have had done by professional platers. And if you go too long it will deposit the zinc in an uneven manner and ultimately it will grow "hair." Zinc stalactites if you will. Perhaps a quick rub with steel wool and retreat will give better results. The pro's in my area charge about $50/lot minimum so any bulk jobs I still farm out but this kit will be quick and cheap for the odds and ends that didn't make it into the bulk jobs. Dave From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Dec 21 07:29:11 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 09:29:11 EST Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard Message-ID: In a message dated 12/20/2007 6:22:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: ISTR the TR250 was further complicated by using manifold vacuum for the retard, with a vacuum switch operated by the throttle linkage to kill the retard when the throttle was opened. Yeah Randall, I just saw one of those switches go on eBay for $90 or so. I have a few spares for those crazy enough to attempt a factory tune. Darrell **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Fri Dec 21 07:44:51 2007 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 09:44:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] A TR5 in Georgia. In-Reply-To: <476AFC95.8040909@comcast.net> References: <476AFC95.8040909@comcast.net> Message-ID: <52B98086-2368-4259-89F4-C14E35E5C26B@mindspring.com> I saw this car at a show last spring. Nice guy had bought it from a guy who imported it from the Netherlands, hence the left-hand drive. It was a very nice car that looked to be all original. I guess he must have moved on to pricier cars. I wondered why I never heard back from him. Ashford Little 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Dec 21 11:21:08 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 10:21:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] Vacuum advance/retard In-Reply-To: <004e01c843c1$8a72af20$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> References: <476A76C7.28671.33B39C6@localhost><476A852D.25214.373771D@localhost><004701c84347$728c5e80$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <004e01c843c1$8a72af20$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <000c01c843fe$4206b870$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Vacuum advance did > not disappear, and is still in use today, albeit usually > electronically. Timing advance at part throttle is used today; but it did mostly disappear for a decade or so. I don't believe any emission-controlled Triumph had it after 1972 or so (unless maybe some of the TR8s had it). The reason was the same reason that vacuum retard appeared : to reduce "harmful" emissions. Having the timing retarded from optimum under cruise conditions reduces the formation of NOx (by lowering peak combustion temperature and pressure). But once more effective means of reducing NOx emissions were found (like EGR and 3-way catalysts), some timing advance could be reintroduced to improve fuel mileage. Randall From vitop at sbcglobal.net Fri Dec 21 12:24:38 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:24:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] water pump install Message-ID: <06a701c84407$2139e000$6601a8c0@serverxp> i am going crazy trying to figure out where my A/C brackets go. Does someone have some good pics of how the A/C brackets get mounted to the engine block? Especially the hard to see lower brackets that mount to the bottom of the compressor? I also need some pics of where and how the little fanbelt pulley gets mounted. Any help at all would be extremely appreciated. I think my top bracket (the main A/C bracket) is an unusual one. If anyone has had any copies made of original brackets or has an orignal to sell, please let me know. If anyone has one off the car that they could spare for a few weeks, I'd like to get one copied. Or if the owner of the bracket would rather not send it out and has someone that can make a good copy I'd be happy to pay for one. From vitop at sbcglobal.net Fri Dec 21 12:26:00 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:26:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] A/C bracket installation Message-ID: <06b301c84407$52510380$6601a8c0@serverxp> I am going crazy trying to figure out where my A/C brackets go. Does someone have some good pics of how the A/C brackets get mounted to the engine block? Especially the hard to see lower brackets that mount to the bottom of the compressor? I also need some pics of where and how the little fanbelt pulley gets mounted. Any help at all would be extremely appreciated. I think my top bracket (the main A/C bracket) is an unusual one. If anyone has had any copies made of original brackets or has an orignal to sell, please let me know. If anyone has one off the car that they could spare for a few weeks, I'd like to get one copied. Or if the owner of the bracket would rather not send it out and has someone that can make a good copy I'd be happy to pay for one. From tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org Fri Dec 21 12:51:50 2007 From: tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org (Terry Geiger) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:51:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] A/C bracket installation References: <06b301c84407$52510380$6601a8c0@serverxp> Message-ID: <001601c8440a$eda73860$041e14ac@aitinc.local> Here is the installation I went through on my TR6: http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/technical/technical.htm Terry Geiger '74 Triumph TR6 | '63 Triumph Herald | '70 MGBGT | '84 Mercedes 300D Diesel http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vito" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 1:26 PM Subject: [6pack] A/C bracket installation >I am going crazy trying to figure out where my A/C brackets go. > > Does someone have some good pics of how the A/C brackets get mounted to > the > engine block? Especially the hard to see lower brackets that mount to the > bottom of the compressor? I also need some pics of where and how the > little > fanbelt pulley gets mounted. > > Any help at all would be extremely appreciated. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Dec 21 12:55:49 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 14:55:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Chainwheels Message-ID: <003b01c8440b$7c135570$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Listers, I attempted to fit a new timing chain to a TR4 engine this morning. It's loose as a goose, so I suspect that new crank and cam chainwheels are in order, part nos. 55971 and 57113. I'm always leery of repro parts, so wonder what's out there for this application. Does anyone have any experience with the currently available items? What are the FOT guys using? Thanks, Ed Woods From mbarre at juno.com Fri Dec 21 14:01:35 2007 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 21:01:35 GMT Subject: [TR] Importing a car from Canada? Message-ID: <20071221.160135.19980.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> Living in the SEUS I didn't pay attention to earlier threads on this subject, but it so happens I have a trip planned to Montreal next month and just may consider buying a car and driving back. First is it a big deal bringing the car in & getting a US title? Second is this ill advised from a corrosion perspective for road cars given the elements & road salt? Car in question is a circa 2000 VW TDI. TIA, Matt _____________________________________________________________ Click here to become a professional counselor in less time than you think. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3oJtpBc70XOrrkIR5qd79eYNhNT qpHZu2Wg7AWTo5QV78VS7/ From drsandner at embarqmail.com Fri Dec 21 15:06:59 2007 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 17:06:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] "dental pick' Message-ID: listers it is not an 'dental pick', but rather a dental 'explorer'. i assume you all go to the DDS every 6 months, (you DO NOT want to outlive your teeth), just as you change you oil every 3K. ask him/her for any 'used ' #5DE explorers' or any 'pig tail explorers', or currettes. also flea markets are good, nice stuff made in pakistan, carry a magnet.................true stainless steel is not magnetic. randy sandner 74.5 tr6 hickory nc From logcabintr at gmail.com Fri Dec 21 15:24:18 2007 From: logcabintr at gmail.com (Rich Roenigk) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 17:24:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company valuation Message-ID: Thanks to Ted Schumacher, Chris, and others who replied to help with inner fender question below. I need the lists help to help with my insurance claim on my TR4A: >From the accident**, briefly described below, the Insurance Company gave me a low ball figure of $5500. I asked the agent where she got that.... she said from a TR4A advertised in Astoria.(?) She said to send her local ads for this model and they will reconsider. If you have any ads TR4As in your area, or see any .....please pass on to me. TIA, Rich Roenigk logcabintr at gmail.com or RRoenigk at aol.com ** Nov. 17th, T-boned by a fool who cut in front of me, both of us were luckily OK. On Dec 9, 2007 10:21 AM, Rich Roenigk wrote: > Got whacked on Nov. 17th, T-boned by a fool who cut in front of me, both > of us were luckily OK. > > We're assessing how to proceed with inner fenders - > How far should we cut them back? > Is that a good idea or should we go all the back to the cowl? > How do you align the inner fenders? > Any advice? BTDT Thanks, Rich From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Dec 21 15:52:49 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 14:52:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] "dental pick' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004301c84424$364bd530$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > ask him/her for any 'used ' #5DE explorers' or any 'pig tail But don't be surprised if he refuses. Mine claims they must be treated as medical waste and refuses to let me have them. Randall From 6parts at charter.net Fri Dec 21 16:14:48 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 18:14:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company valuation References: Message-ID: <032901c84427$485b85b0$03d30c47@alan> I'd ask her what kind of shape it was in. I don't think your going to get much of a car today for $5,500. Then i'd get a print out of TR4's listed in Hemmings, Auto Trader, and some auctions: and show her those prices. I bought a wreck awhile back and the owner showed his insurance company similar stuff and they ended up paying him $17,500. Granted it was in pretty good shape before the accident, but definately not immaculate. Al Salvatore Intake Polishing www.triumphowners.com/1195 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Roenigk" To: Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 5:24 PM Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company valuation > Thanks to Ted Schumacher, Chris, and others who replied to help with inner > fender question below. > > I need the lists help to help with my insurance claim on my TR4A: > >>From the accident**, briefly described below, the Insurance Company gave >>me > a low ball figure of $5500. I asked the agent where she got that.... she > said from a TR4A advertised in Astoria.(?) > > She said to send her local ads for this model and they will reconsider. > > If you have any ads TR4As in your area, or see any .....please pass on to > me. > > TIA, Rich Roenigk > > logcabintr at gmail.com or > RRoenigk at aol.com From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Fri Dec 21 16:54:17 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 15:54:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company valuation References: <032901c84427$485b85b0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <046801c8442c$cd446300$230110ac@MIKESDELL> I would think she would have to find a similar car in your area or be prepared to pay the shipping cost to get the car to your area. Mike Denman ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> To: "Rich Roenigk" ; Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 3:14 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company valuation > I'd ask her what kind of shape it was in. > > I don't think your going to get much of a car today for $5,500. > > Then i'd get a print out of TR4's listed in Hemmings, Auto Trader, and > some > auctions: and show her those prices. > > I bought a wreck awhile back and the owner showed his insurance company > similar stuff and they ended up paying him $17,500. > Granted it was in pretty good shape before the accident, but definately > not > immaculate. > > Al Salvatore > Intake Polishing > > > www.triumphowners.com/1195 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rich Roenigk" > To: > Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 5:24 PM > Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company valuation > > >> Thanks to Ted Schumacher, Chris, and others who replied to help with >> inner >> fender question below. >> >> I need the lists help to help with my insurance claim on my TR4A: >> >>>From the accident**, briefly described below, the Insurance Company gave >>>me >> a low ball figure of $5500. I asked the agent where she got that.... she >> said from a TR4A advertised in Astoria.(?) >> >> She said to send her local ads for this model and they will reconsider. >> >> If you have any ads TR4As in your area, or see any .....please pass on to >> me. >> >> TIA, Rich Roenigk >> >> logcabintr at gmail.com or >> RRoenigk at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From pfischer at rmi.net Fri Dec 21 18:02:17 2007 From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 19:02:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company valuation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <476C6219.7060302@rmi.net> For your car value look here: http://www.nadaguides.com/ - Select "Classic Cars" in the top menu bar - Under "Classic Cars by Make" select "triumph" - Select your year and features Print and give this page to your insurance company. I don't know what year your TR4 is: They show for example that at 1964 has a low retail value of $7,125, and prices range up to $23,400. NADA is the National Auto Dealers Association. It is a recognized resource. When I got my stated value policy for my 250, I printed off a page from this site and gave it to my agent with photos of the car. It was very nice to have in place when a wiring fire struck later. Rich, I hope this helps. And other listers, please get your cars insured properly. Start building your case for value before you need it. Pat Fischer Rich Roenigk wrote: >Thanks to Ted Schumacher, Chris, and others who replied to help with inner >fender question below. > >I need the lists help to help with my insurance claim on my TR4A: > >>From the accident**, briefly described below, the Insurance Company gave me >a low ball figure of $5500. I asked the agent where she got that.... she >said from a TR4A advertised in Astoria.(?) > >She said to send her local ads for this model and they will reconsider. > >If you have any ads TR4As in your area, or see any .....please pass on to >me. > >TIA, Rich Roenigk > >logcabintr at gmail.com or >RRoenigk at aol.com > >** Nov. 17th, T-boned by a fool who cut in front of me, both of us were >luckily OK. > >On Dec 9, 2007 10:21 AM, Rich Roenigk wrote: From jmitch at snet.net Fri Dec 21 18:55:06 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 20:55:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tin-Zinc plating kit In-Reply-To: <000c01c843d3$c09b9000$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> References: <000c01c843d3$c09b9000$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Message-ID: <476C6E7A.7020204@snet.net> I've used the Caswell Copy Cad kit with great success. It's expensive to get started, as it's best to have a variable power suppy to do the plating. You can just plate and it will leave a dull silver zinc like cadmium plate, or you can add a brightener and get an almost chrome shine to the plate. You can also dip in yellow chromate dye after plating for yellow zinc parts. If you've just got a bucket of bolts to be done, it would be cheaper and much easier to go commercial . If you watch ebay, you can often pick up a power supply pretty cheap. As with any plating, the preparation the part receives is the most important part. Check out caswell's web site. There's a great deal of information there, and they are very helpful with problems. They also host a plating forum online. John Mitchell 76 TR6 with lots of fresh yellow zinc parts. Dave Willner wrote: > I'm thinking about improving the appearance of a lot of smaller hardware and > odds and ends this winter and was wondering if anyone has any experience using > any of the plating kits available today, I know Eastwoods sells a fairly > inexpensive Tin-Zinc kit that seems to produce some pretty nice results. I've > also looked at some of the cad plating systems, a bit more expensive but a > real nice finish. Thanks > > Dave Willner > Stroudsburg, PA > 59 TR3A Apple Green > 70 MGB BRG > 70 BSA 441 Victor Special > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Fri Dec 21 19:14:45 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 21:14:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] winter time Message-ID: <001401c84440$6c0790d0$f71f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Easy way to check for radiator corrosion protection, just as important as checking the antifreeze, if the coolant is allowed to become "acidic" the engine and radiator will also become corroded with rust. Using a volt-ohm meter (VOM) set it to a DC voltage range that measure in "tenths" of a volt, remove the cap and place the negative VOM lead into coolant, being very careful not to touch any other part of the radiator. Place the Positive lead of the VOM against a bare metal part of the radiator (or a good ground of the engine), a reading of 0.2 volts or less, coolant is in good shape, a reading of 0.5 volts it is borderline, 0.7 volts replace your coolant immediatly. This comes from my "Model A" workshop manual and also says it works in modern cars as well, which is really more important because of aluminum heads or dissimilar metals in modern cars. From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Dec 21 20:30:14 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 22:30:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] ok to blow out mc? Message-ID: <011a01c8444d$7f2f3570$c094df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Will it be alright to blow (120psi) air from an air compressor into the master cylinder/slave cylinder using either the brake fluid entrance or exit? I am doing this in an effort to clean my master cylinders/slave cylinder prior to filling them with brake fluid? Seemingly, since the brake cylinders' may see more than 1000 psi, this should be ok. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From triosan at gmail.com Fri Dec 21 22:51:16 2007 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 21:51:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Toyota 5 Speed/Nissan Diff In-Reply-To: <7148-476C36BB-3667@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> References: <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> <7148-476C36BB-3667@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0712212151k743c1c8audce9d3953e47d9bf@mail.gmail.com> I replied off list to Bob regarding the shortening of the drive shaft when using both Herman's tranny and Goodparts Nissan diff. I got a shaft shortened, but ended up using the uncut one. I do recall having a bit** of a time getting the shaft on the diff because it was just long enough to not be able to get a wrench on the engine side of the flange at the diff. Ended up fabricating some long extension so I could hold the nut or bolt from the far side of the cruciform plate. Course this argues for the shorter shaft. Cannot remember why I did not use it -- probably thought it pulled the shaft out of the tranny too far. But having read what Herman wrote, that was probably a mistake. Do not have any leaks after many track miles, so I assume it is OK. Chuck On Dec 21, 2007 1:57 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Bob, and others who may be in is position--- > > Of course we wouldn't want to "shorten" the drive shaft if it weren't > necessary to do so. It would seem prudent to compare the two diffs to > see how much farther forward the pinion shaft and its flange locates. If > the Nissan diff is two inches "longer" and it uses up too much of the > slide in the propshaft and tranny tail shaft splines, then the seal at > the tranny tail shaft is at risk. At some time in the future I will > probably go the Nissan limited-slip route, and this would be my thoughts > about the possible shortening. > > Dick > > Sender: > > From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson > > Last night I posted a question about who had the Toyota 5 speed and > Nissan diff combo and if they had to shorten their drive shaft. I got a > lot of off list responses and no one had shortened their drive shaft > except for one person. This morning I had a 30 minute call with Herman > to understand (or try to) why he now says it HAS to be shortened. > Basically, there are 2 slips in this set up: Slip 1 is the flange on the > rear of the tranny and Slip 2 is in the drive shaft. Both slips can move > in and out, effectively lengthening or shortening the overall length. If > the tranny flange is moved in too far it will damage the rear seal over > time causing it to leak and eventually leak bad enough to cause total > fluid loss. It's happened to one owner already while on a drive & > destroyed the tranny. If the flange moves out too far (more then 7/8" > from the seal) it causes a whipping action which will wreck the tranny > bearings. Herman says to have the driveshaft cut to length, remove the > slip and end up with a solid drive shaft with no clamp. I'm only the > messenger so If you have questions, you might want to contact Herman > directly. > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From hupshall at triumphcars.com Fri Dec 21 23:08:26 2007 From: hupshall at triumphcars.com (Huw Upshall) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 22:08:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Wedge] Importing a car from Canada? In-Reply-To: <20071221.160135.19980.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> References: <20071221.160135.19980.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: If the car has a US DOT and EPA sticker on it, you won't have a problem. Check to see if the vehicle is on this list, if it isn't - best to forget it. http://www.epa.gov/otaq/imports/canadian.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu [mailto:owner-tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu] On Behalf Of Matt Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 1:02 PM To: tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [Wedge] Importing a car from Canada? Living in the SEUS I didn't pay attention to earlier threads on this subject, but it so happens I have a trip planned to Montreal next month and just may consider buying a car and driving back. First is it a big deal bringing the car in & getting a US title? Second is this ill advised from a corrosion perspective for road cars given the elements & road salt? Car in question is a circa 2000 VW TDI. TIA, Matt _____________________________________________________________ Click here to become a professional counselor in less time than you think. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3oJtpBc70XOrrkIR5qd79eYNhNT qpHZu2Wg7AWTo5QV78VS7/ -- Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu From vkwong at celestica.com Sat Dec 22 02:05:44 2007 From: vkwong at celestica.com (Vincent Kwong) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 04:05:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 12/22/2007 and will not return until 01/02/2008. Happy Holidays, Vincent Kwong From DLylis at aol.com Sat Dec 22 05:32:07 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 07:32:07 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] "dental pick' Message-ID: I sure hope my dentist doesn't go to the flea market and buy 'explorers' made in Pakistan. I am up for a routine cleaning. I may ask! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From jmitch at snet.net Sat Dec 22 06:56:49 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 08:56:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] winter time In-Reply-To: <001401c84440$6c0790d0$f71f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <001401c84440$6c0790d0$f71f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <476D17A1.8070803@snet.net> I ran right down and did mine last night. 1.5 volts. One less thing to do this winter:) Thanks Fred John Mitchell FRED E THOMAS wrote: > Easy way to check for radiator corrosion protection, just as important as > checking the antifreeze, if the coolant is allowed to become "acidic" the > engine and radiator will also become corroded with rust. Using a volt-ohm > meter (VOM) set it to a DC voltage range that measure in "tenths" of a volt, > remove the cap and place the negative VOM lead into coolant, being very > careful not to touch any other part of the radiator. Place the Positive lead > of the VOM against a bare metal part of the radiator (or a good ground of the > engine), a reading of 0.2 volts or less, coolant is in good shape, a reading > of 0.5 volts it is borderline, 0.7 volts replace your coolant immediatly. > This comes from my "Model A" workshop manual and also says it works in modern > cars as well, which is really more important because of aluminum heads or > dissimilar metals in modern cars. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From jmitch at snet.net Sat Dec 22 07:13:55 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 09:13:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tin-Zinc plating kit In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770712211904t6f66c7te1da56d947056b39@mail.gmail.com> References: <000c01c843d3$c09b9000$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> <476C6E7A.7020204@snet.net> <6fa72a770712211904t6f66c7te1da56d947056b39@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <476D1BA3.2060908@snet.net> For smaller items like brackets and bolts, a 0 to 3 amp variable rectifier is more than adequate. Here's a link to Caswell's power supply page. It takes some practice when you first start to get a nice plate, but it's easily either blasted or buffed off, and you can go again. I think it's kinda fun, and my wife says I look like a mad scientist with all my buckets of solution set up:) Read through the caswell web site, as there's a wealth of information. Their prices are high, and many of the items I sourced elsewhere, I'm a pharmacist, so I have alternative sources for chemicals. I only order from them what I cant get elsewhere. John Mitchell 76 TR6 http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/rect.htm Chris Simonsen wrote: > hi John - I'm a or was an Electrical engineer - got lots of old > project remnants stashed everywhere - just what do I look for in a > power supply for plating? I want to get started with the TR2 this winter. > > Thanks > > Chris > > 63 Tr4 > 54 TR2 > > On Dec 21, 2007 8:55 PM, John Mitchell > wrote: > > I've used the Caswell Copy Cad kit with great success. It's expensive > to get started, as it's best to have a variable power suppy to do the > plating. You can just plate and it will leave a dull silver zinc like > cadmium plate, or you can add a brightener and get an almost chrome > shine to the plate. You can also dip in yellow chromate dye after > plating for yellow zinc parts. If you've just got a bucket of > bolts to > be done, it would be cheaper and much easier to go commercial . > If you > watch ebay, you can often pick up a power supply pretty cheap. As > with > any plating, the preparation the part receives is the most important > part. Check out caswell's web site. There's a great deal of > information > there, and they are very helpful with problems. They also host a > plating forum online. John Mitchell 76 TR6 with lots of > fresh > yellow zinc parts. > > Dave Willner wrote: > > I'm thinking about improving the appearance of a lot of smaller > hardware and > > odds and ends this winter and was wondering if anyone has any > experience using > > any of the plating kits available today, I know Eastwoods sells > a fairly > > inexpensive Tin-Zinc kit that seems to produce some pretty nice > results. I've > > also looked at some of the cad plating systems, a bit more > expensive but a > > real nice finish. Thanks > > > > Dave Willner > > Stroudsburg, PA > > 59 TR3A Apple Green > > 70 MGB BRG > > 70 BSA 441 Victor Special From jmitch at snet.net Sat Dec 22 07:16:48 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 09:16:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Winter Time Message-ID: <476D1C50.9050607@snet.net> Ooooops .15 volts. Damn decimals John Mitchells From dorpaul at negia.net Sat Dec 22 07:29:11 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 09:29:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bubble Flare References: <270009.64047.qm@web57810.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003a01c844a7$06dd6920$df94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Kent, thanks! My '60 TR3A is TS71318L and I don't remember any (just one) bubble flare originally on it. However, I've now 'molested' it and since I just now understand what I've been misunderstanding about different flare types terminology. I remember there is just one odd metric bolt (although I don't remember where) somewhere, but I don't think I knew about one odd flare type anywhere. Does someone on the list remember where the odd flare or odd nut is? I am also wondering at what point the switch was made from using 'double flares' to 'bubble flares' was made?????????????( it might be a TR4 phenomena). And while Triumph might never have done this, I am wondering if a bubble-flared clutch line, can be converted to a 'double-flare'?????????????? (it looks doable with a heavy duty flaring tool?) --------------------------------------- Paul, I did have one bubble flare but I can't remember where. Most are double flares and are on the brake or clutch. It is a flare turned in on itself. Most flaring tools have the capibility to do double flares. It is a two step operation. Paul Dorsey wrote: Kent, I guess I forgot what type flares are usually on TR3's, could you remind me please? Thanks, Paul From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Dec 22 10:01:16 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 10:01:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: So nice to get 'Olsened' for the Holidays. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vincent Kwong" >I will be out of the office starting 12/22/2007 and will not return until > 01/02/2008. From Cofrog at aol.com Sat Dec 22 10:10:57 2007 From: Cofrog at aol.com (Cofrog at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 12:10:57 EST Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office Message-ID: Where is Kwong? - The whole world wonders....... **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Dec 22 10:14:12 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 17:14:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] ok to blow out mc? In-Reply-To: <011a01c8444d$7f2f3570$c094df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <011a01c8444d$7f2f3570$c094df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Paul, In theory you are probably correct that the cylinders will hold the pressure. However, the idea seems ill advised to me. You could damage the seals. Then after you did it the MC would have air in it and it should be removed and bench bled. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_dec From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Dec 22 10:17:17 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 17:17:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hey Vincent is out of the office again. Lets rifle his drawers and see what kind of goodies he has. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_dec From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Dec 22 10:19:52 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 12:19:52 EST Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office Message-ID: In a message dated 12/22/2007 11:17:45 AM Central Standard Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: > Hey Vincent is out of the office again. Lets rifle his drawers and see > what > kind of goodies he has. > Too late. The cleaning crew has already been there. Dave From Cofrog at aol.com Sat Dec 22 10:23:38 2007 From: Cofrog at aol.com (Cofrog at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 12:23:38 EST Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office Message-ID: I'd keep out of his drawers! Maybe his wife or liquor cabinet though. **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Dec 22 10:24:22 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 17:24:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] Flare instructions. In-Reply-To: <003a01c844a7$06dd6920$df94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <270009.64047.qm@web57810.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <003a01c844a7$06dd6920$df94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: When I look at an inverted flare ( American) I can clearly see that the metal is doubled over on itself. I have never been able to figure out how to do this with a flaring toll and new line. I always end up with a flare that is single layer metal and they rarely hold pressure. Can someone explain to me the procedure for making a doubled over inverted flare with a flaring tool? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ im is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a difference. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_Cause_Effect From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Dec 22 10:30:26 2007 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 12:30:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Flare instructions. In-Reply-To: References: <270009.64047.qm@web57810.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <003a01c844a7$06dd6920$df94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <6fa72a770712220930i512c7a37g57cd1c8768acc15d@mail.gmail.com> http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html I hope this helps!!! On Dec 22, 2007 12:24 PM, tom white wrote: > When I look at an inverted flare ( American) I can clearly see that the > metal > is doubled over on itself. I have never been able to figure out how to do > this with a flaring toll and new line. I always end up with a flare that > is > single layer metal and they rarely hold pressure. Can someone explain to > me > the procedure for making a doubled over inverted flare with a flaring > tool? > > Thanks. > > Best regards, > Tom > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > i m is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a > difference. > http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_Cause_Effect > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Dec 22 10:51:55 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 09:51:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] Flare instructions. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071222175154.ITN15255.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > When I look at an inverted flare ( American) I can clearly > see that the metal is doubled over on itself. I have never > been able to figure out how to do this with a flaring toll > and new line. It requires a special tool; an ordinary plumbing flaring tool will not do. The directions should come with the tool. Generally, you have to square, deburr and then file a chamfer on the end of the line. Then for the kit I used, you mount the line in the tool and use a special die to crush the end into a bubble shape. Then remove the die and use what amounts to an ordinary flaring tool to crush the bubble into a double flare. I found this nearly impossible on pre-cut lines from the local auto parts store ... I'm told it's much easier if you start with 'virgin' brake line which apparently is softer. But since pre-flared lines are available for the TR2-6, I would suggest going that way if at all possible. Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Dec 22 11:55:31 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 18:55:31 -0000 Subject: [TR] Greetings All Message-ID: <00f901c844cc$3a9ddae0$0201a8c0@Bevan> I'd just like to take this opportunity in wishing all members of these lists, wherever they may live, a very Happy Christmas and New Year. In lurk mode at the moment and unsure whether the lists have 'wobbled' again as they're quiet of late. Cheers all, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Dec 22 13:40:07 2007 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 13:40:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] High beam indicator light TR3A Message-ID: <292F45AB-31CF-451E-87D2-AD498782C438@cox.net> Well I have all the wires strung & connected from my Dan Mater's kit - well all but 2. I am still debating the antitheft switch and the other is the light socket for the the high beam indicator. I cannot find it anywhere. And I do not remember if it is the same socket as all the other instrument lights. Is it what Moss Motors calls: SOCKET, warning lamps their #142-710 $9.95 or SOCKET, gauge illumination, their # 142-700 $7.95 Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Dec 22 14:09:06 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 14:09:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] High beam indicator light TR3A In-Reply-To: <292F45AB-31CF-451E-87D2-AD498782C438@cox.net> References: <292F45AB-31CF-451E-87D2-AD498782C438@cox.net> Message-ID: <0971757036634FC7AAB6E33D573DB0D8@GeoPC> Neither I think. I believe it is item 79 in the same pic, p/n 161-915. Those metal prongs around the edge grip inside the cylinder on the back of the speedo. Not sure why they show this as just a 'TR4-4A' part as I think it is the same for a TR3A. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "60TR3A" <60TR3A at cox.net> To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 1:40 PM Subject: [TR] High beam indicator light TR3A > ...Is it what Moss Motors calls: > > SOCKET, warning lamps their #142-710 $9.95 > or > SOCKET, gauge illumination, their # 142-700 $7.95 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Dec 22 17:11:30 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:11:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] High beam indicator light TR3A In-Reply-To: <292F45AB-31CF-451E-87D2-AD498782C438@cox.net> Message-ID: <20071223001130.PKEW2629.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > the other is the light socket for the > the high beam indicator. I cannot find it anywhere. And I do > not remember if it is the same socket as all the other > instrument lights. Nope, it's unique on the TR3. An enclosed metal housing with fingers that snap into the back of the speedo. > Is it what Moss Motors calls: > > SOCKET, warning lamps their #142-710 $9.95 Nope, that crosses to Stanpart 502342 (according to Moss Europe) which is the holder for the turn signal indicator. > SOCKET, gauge illumination, their # 142-700 $7.95 Nope, that crosses to Stanpart 70066, which is the illumination bulb holder for the tach & speedo. The number Geo gave, 161-195 is probably correct; though my sources cannot confirm or deny that. It crosses to P/N 508139, which is the high beam holder for a TR4/A; but is not listed in my TR2-3 SPC. I'm guessing that's because it was considered an integral part of the wiring harness, rather than a separate part. Randall From thecrowes at hotmail.com Sat Dec 22 17:53:52 2007 From: thecrowes at hotmail.com (Frank - Sandy Crowe) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:53:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Wedge] Importing a car from Canada? Message-ID: > First is it a big deal bringing the car in & getting a US title? < Short story: two friends of mine went to Vancouver Canada to buy an old Alfa Romeo, decided to buy it, paid cash and headed for the border. No problem bringing it, except they would have to pay duty on the car to bring it in. After much thinking (and not enough cash), they dug around in the glove box and found that the car had been owned in the US before it was exported to Canada. Problem solved - no duty. Probably won't apply to your car though. And good luck with the salt Frank (TR3 in sunny SoCal.) From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sat Dec 22 19:33:01 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 21:33:01 EST Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office Message-ID: Hmm don't you think the people involved in these out of office mails would read the list from time to time and at least say "sorry for the spam" ? ************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Dec 22 19:36:51 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 21:36:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <476D8373.30172.C9A13@localhost> On 22 Dec 2007 at 17:17, tom white wrote: > Hey Vincent is out of the office again. Lets rifle his drawers > and see what kind of goodies he has. You rifle his drawers. I'll stick to his desk. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sat Dec 22 19:43:40 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 21:43:40 EST Subject: [TR] Vincent is out of the Office Message-ID: In a message dated 12/22/07 12:17:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: << Hey Vincent is out of the office again. Lets rifle his drawers and see what kind of goodies he has. Best regards, Tom >> If we do that perhaps we can figure out what Celestica does. Even after reading the web site overview it isn't imediatly clear if it is a story line from a Dilbert cartoon or a company that manufactures Vegematics , Ginsu knives , the Clapper. . . . >From the web site: Overview Celestica is dedicated to building solid partnerships and providing flexible solutions to enable our customers' success. Our adaptive team proactively offers creative solutions that enable our customers to keep their commitments. Our efficient global manufacturing network provides customers with a competitive edge that enables them to achieve success in their markets. Our mission is clear: Accelerate success for our customers, leveraging our supply chain efficiencies to provide them with the flexibility they need to overcome any challenge. Drive growth for our shareholders. Enable our people to develop creative solutions that help our customers respond to unexpected changes. Webre ready to leverage our end-to-end services and leadership in technology and manufacturing to drive the business growth of our customers. Webre also ready to invest in their future. By continuing to deepen our knowledge, develop innovative solutions and advance our capabilities, webre helping global industry leaders to increase their efficiency. Lower their costs. Stay ahead of the game. ************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Dec 23 01:08:53 2007 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 00:08:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] Ain't it the Truth ... Message-ID: IF MY BODY WERE A CAR... If my body were a car, this is the time I would be thinking about trading it in for a newer model. I've got bumps and dents and scratches in my finish and my paint job is getting a little dull ... But that's not the worst of it ... My headlights are out of focus and it's especially hard to see things up close My traction is not as graceful as it once was. I slip and slide and skid and bump into things even in the best of weather. My whitewalls are stained with varicose veins. It takes me hours to reach my maximum speed. My fuel rate burns inefficiently. But here's the worst of it -- Almost every time I sneeze, cough or sputter. ....either my radiator leaks or my exhaust backfires! There are a few out there who will appreciate this ... right Fred?? -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From thenicholls at verizon.net Sun Dec 23 07:07:59 2007 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 08:07:59 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4A_sale_values_to_contest_insurance_company_?= =?utf-8?b?w4LCoHZhbHVhdGlvbg==?= Message-ID: <29682114.523111198418879178.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net> List, I had my 1972 Triumph TR6 with a stated value for what I paid for from the PO. After 2 years I contacted them and they said I could increase it to $16,000 without an appraisal. I think the change cost me around $10 more per year. Pat, I would do the NADA thing and ask your insurance company to reconsider their offer. Craig H. Nicholls From: Pat Fischer >Date: 2007/12/21 Fri PM 07:02:17 CST >To: Rich Roenigk >Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company valuation >For your car value look here: http://www.nadaguides.com/ > >- Select "Classic Cars" in the top menu bar >- Under "Classic Cars by Make" select "triumph" >- Select your year and features >Print and give this page to your insurance company. >I don't know what year your TR4 is: They show for example that at 1964 >has a low retail value of $7,125, and prices range up to $23,400. > >NADA is the National Auto Dealers Association. It is a recognized >resource. When I got my stated value policy for my 250, I printed off a >page from this site and gave it to my agent with photos of the car. It >was very nice to have in place when a wiring fire struck later. > >Rich, I hope this helps. And other listers, please get your cars >insured properly. Start building your case for value before you need it. > >Pat Fischer > >Rich Roenigk wrote: > >>Thanks to Ted Schumacher, Chris, and others who replied to help with inner >>fender question below. >> >>I need the lists help to help with my insurance claim on my TR4A: >> >>>From the accident**, briefly described below, the Insurance Company gave me >>a low ball figure of $5500. I asked the agent where she got that.... she >>said from a TR4A advertised in Astoria.(?) >> >>She said to send her local ads for this model and they will reconsider. >> >>If you have any ads TR4As in your area, or see any .....please pass on to >>me. >> >>TIA, Rich Roenigk >> >>logcabintr at gmail.com or >>RRoenigk at aol.com >> >>** Nov. 17th, T-boned by a fool who cut in front of me, both of us were >>luckily OK. >> >>On Dec 9, 2007 10:21 AM, Rich Roenigk wrote: >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >http://www.team.net/archive From drsandner at embarqmail.com Sun Dec 23 07:27:09 2007 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 09:27:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] "dental pick' Message-ID: <299B545B37DD4ABD845DD31DF660E309@randyPC> morning bob, perio probes are nice, slender tips measured in mm. hemostats (clamps) are great. if he has a dental engine and handpiece, GRAB it by all means. if you take this, get a contra angle, and some diamonds/burs. for the straight handpiece get the straight shaft green/ white stones, and some mandrels and polishing wheels. upper root tip forceps are good for getting into small places. irrigating syringes are good for lubricating in tight places, the list is endless. he will know what all this stuff is. oh, the scribe alluded to in previous posts is also an 'explorer' mirrors are good, especially if they are 'front surface' #5, the common size is good, the #2 & 3, ,used for root canals, let you see in tight places. hope you and yours, and all the listers have a wonderful Christmas, and a fantastic new year. randy From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Dec 23 09:06:37 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 16:06:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] "dental pick' In-Reply-To: <299B545B37DD4ABD845DD31DF660E309@randyPC> References: <299B545B37DD4ABD845DD31DF660E309@randyPC> Message-ID: I have a cable throttle linkage. It was stiff and created a lot of resistance to foot pressure. I got some cable lube at the parts store but had trouble getting lube into the small throttle cable housing. I found that a used syringe and needle worked wonders in applying the lube. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_dec From vitop at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 23 09:27:28 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 10:27:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] Water temp sending unit Message-ID: <091c01c84580$b6141900$6601a8c0@serverxp> Is the water temp sending unit in the water pump housing supposed to be installed as is with just the round gasket, or are you supposed to put some sort of sealer on it? Same question for the thermistat... Thanks! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Dec 23 09:28:05 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 11:28:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Nissan Differential Message-ID: <000e01c84580$ce1dd090$210110ac@bobspc> Well, I'm moving along with my Toyota 5 speed and Nissan differential upgrade. I just posted a bunch of pictures showing what's required to modify the differential flange to mate with the TR6 drive shaft flange. I thought it just needed new holes drilled to match up but it went well beyond that. It's sure nice to have friends with specialized machines in their workshop. Many thanks to Rick Patton for doing this work for me. You can see his handiwork at http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/60thBirthday.htm in the Nissan Differential section. But also take a second to check out his home workshop. It can be found at http://www.pattonmachine.com/ in the "About Rick" section. It's quite impressive. Next up is to pull the engine and transmission. The engine bay is stripped down to just the engine and the interior has been gutted to expose the transmission. That will happen around Jan 3rd and then the fun really begins. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.......... Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 12/22/2007 2:02 PM From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Dec 23 10:14:06 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 10:14:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Water temp sending unit In-Reply-To: <091c01c84580$b6141900$6601a8c0@serverxp> References: <091c01c84580$b6141900$6601a8c0@serverxp> Message-ID: <4B480C1AE4084E19B30F34FAB5ADA286@GeoPC> I have always avoided using sealants on these senders as I want to be sure to get good electrical contact since the units operate by connecting to ground. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vito" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 9:27 AM Subject: [TR] Water temp sending unit > Is the water temp sending unit in the water pump housing supposed to be > installed as is with just the round gasket, or are you supposed to put > some > sort of sealer on it? Same question for the thermistat... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 23 10:28:25 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 09:28:25 -0800 Subject: [TR] Water temp sending unit In-Reply-To: <091c01c84580$b6141900$6601a8c0@serverxp> Message-ID: <20071223172825.EBNG29909.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Is the water temp sending unit in the water pump housing > supposed to be installed as is with just the round gasket, or > are you supposed to put some sort of sealer on it? I'm not sure what round gasket you are talking about, or even what car you have. Assuming it's a TR6, then I would suggest a light coat of paste PTFE pipe sealer on the tapered threads of the sender. No gasket is required. > Same question for the thermistat... There, I like to coat both sides of the gasket with Hylomar. No need for anything between the thermostat itself & the housing; as a small leak here will not hurt anything. Neither one is really required; but IMO they reduce the chances of a leak and ease future disassembly. Randall From spyderweb at uwalumni.com Sun Dec 23 13:18:34 2007 From: spyderweb at uwalumni.com (JRH) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 14:18:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation References: Message-ID: <00ce01c845a0$feffa5b0$2394c94c@gcllawyers.local> Craig H. Nicholls wrote: > I had my 1972 Triumph TR6 with a stated value > for what I paid for from the PO. > > After 2 years I contacted them and they said I could > increase it to $16,000 without an appraisal. I think > the change cost me around $10 more per year. Seems to me that the last time there was a serious discussion in this space about insurance, it was pointed out that: "Stated Value" means that the insurance company will pay the cost of repairs or replacement, but NO MORE THAN the Stated Value. If the car is a write-off or is stolen, the insurance company may still claim that the car was worth LESS THAN the Stated Value. But if the car is a write-off or is stolen and you have an "Agreed Value" policy, the insurance company has to write a check for the full amount. Is that still true? Jim Hill From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Dec 23 13:37:25 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 15:37:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] a Wizzzard Radiator References: Message-ID: <001201c845a3$a2b36230$ba94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, I decided that by not eating I can afford a Wizard Cooling Radiator (and getting quite a deal on ebay) Did we say that doing away with the mechanical fan (and having an electrical one) would allow me to remove the fan extension? Without it, I'm a little confused as to how to continue to use the balance pieces (since they were meant for the fan blade end of the fan extension). Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 23 14:10:18 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 13:10:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] a Wizzzard Radiator In-Reply-To: <001201c845a3$a2b36230$ba94df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071223211017.KWZD29909.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Without it, > I'm a little confused as to how to continue to use the > balance pieces (since they were meant for the fan blade end > of the fan extension). The balance pieces were to balance the original metal fan. So if you are removing the fan, you can also remove the balance pieces. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 23 14:29:45 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 13:29:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation In-Reply-To: <00ce01c845a0$feffa5b0$2394c94c@gcllawyers.local> Message-ID: <20071223212945.VHJJ2629.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > "Stated Value" means that the insurance company will pay the > cost of repairs or replacement, but NO MORE THAN the Stated > Value. If the car is a write-off or is stolen, the insurance > company may still claim that the car was worth LESS THAN the > Stated Value. > > But if the car is a write-off or is stolen and you have an > "Agreed Value" > policy, the insurance company has to write a check for the > full amount. > > Is that still true? It's never been clear to me that ALL insurance agents use the same language for the different types of policy. Perhaps that is their mistake, I don't know. However, both types of policy are definitely available. In general (though I'm sure there are exceptions), only 'collector' policies are available with "agreed value". These generally include significant (to me) limitations as to how and when the car may be used, stored, etc. Since I like to drive my Triumphs to work (when I can), I've always had "stated value" (though my agent doesn't call it that). Works for me ... when my TR3A was totaled a few years back, the ins co found 4 comparable cars that had sold recently and valued my car at the average of the 4 sales prices. I could have argued with them by presenting other recent sales; but since their valuation was more than my stated value, there wasn't any point Bottom line, IMO, if you are shopping for car insurance, be sure to ask what happens if you suffer a loss. Don't rely on the terms "agreed value" or "stated value"; ask what exactly are the terms of your particular policy. Randall From patton at suscom-maine.net Sun Dec 23 14:43:34 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 16:43:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] a Wizzzard Radiator In-Reply-To: <20071223211017.KWZD29909.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: Hi Paul, Just couldn't resist jumping in with a little commercial interest note; I make a piece to keep it all together once the mechanical fan and bits are removed. See http://www.pattonmachine.com/FanOrderPrice.htm Merry Christmas to all ! Rick Patton 75 TR6sci pattonmachine.com > Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 4:10 PM > To: 'list Triumph' > Subject: Re: [TR] a Wizzzard Radiator > > > > Without it, > > I'm a little confused as to how to continue to use the > > balance pieces (since they were meant for the fan blade end > > of the fan extension). > > The balance pieces were to balance the original metal fan. So if you are > removing the fan, you can also remove the balance pieces. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ snip From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sun Dec 23 18:42:06 2007 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 17:42:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hylomar HPF Message-ID: <476F0E6E.2070101@blacksburg.net> Listers, Since the subject was brought up previously: I have some extra tubes of the real Hylomar HPF. Since my rebuild is finished, I should have no further need for the extra tubes. $7.50 each plus whatever the postage would be. Merry Christmas to all. Jim -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA '64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go From spitlist at cox.net Sun Dec 23 15:44:25 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 15:44:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation In-Reply-To: <00ce01c845a0$feffa5b0$2394c94c@gcllawyers.local> References: <00ce01c845a0$feffa5b0$2394c94c@gcllawyers.local> Message-ID: <000001c845b5$5e9688e0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> I think the operative word you should be looking for is "agreed" value. Joe c. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of JRH Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 1:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation Craig H. Nicholls wrote: > I had my 1972 Triumph TR6 with a stated value > for what I paid for from the PO. > > After 2 years I contacted them and they said I could > increase it to $16,000 without an appraisal. I think > the change cost me around $10 more per year. Seems to me that the last time there was a serious discussion in this space about insurance, it was pointed out that: "Stated Value" means that the insurance company will pay the cost of repairs or replacement, but NO MORE THAN the Stated Value. If the car is a write-off or is stolen, the insurance company may still claim that the car was worth LESS THAN the Stated Value. But if the car is a write-off or is stolen and you have an "Agreed Value" policy, the insurance company has to write a check for the full amount. Is that still true? Jim Hill This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From jmitch at snet.net Sun Dec 23 16:07:48 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:07:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Battery voltage Message-ID: <476EEA44.7020509@snet.net> Someone(Randall maybe) here recently stated what the voltage that a fully charged 12 volt auto battery should hold. Could you repeat it. I'm rehabilitating a red top Lucas Pacesetter battery with EDTA and was wondering what my goal should be. It's holding 12.6volts after a full charging. Thanks and Merry Christmas, John Mitchell 76 TR6 From DLylis at aol.com Sun Dec 23 16:08:37 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:08:37 EST Subject: [TR] "dental pick' Message-ID: In a message dated 12/23/2007 9:27:47 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, drsandner at embarqmail.com writes: morning bob, perio probes are nice, slender tips measured in mm. hemostats (clamps) are great. if he has a dental engine and handpiece, GRAB it by all means. if you take this, get a contra angle, and some diamonds/burs. for the straight handpiece get the straight shaft green/ white stones, and some mandrels and polishing wheels. upper root tip forceps are good for getting into small places. irrigating syringes are good for lubricating in tight places, the list is endless. he will know what all this stuff is. oh, the scribe alluded to in previous posts is also an 'explorer' mirrors are good, especially if they are 'front surface' #5, the common size is good, the #2 & 3, ,used for root canals, let you see in tight places. hope you and yours, and all the listers have a wonderful Christmas, and a fantastic new year. randy Oh, and the chairs are real comfy. Well suited for a nap in the garage. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Dec 23 16:43:25 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:43:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gear Oil Question Message-ID: <000001c845bd$9e6e1890$210110ac@bobspc> This is probably about as basic a question as you can ask but....I'd rather ask and look dumb that not ask at all! Herman recommends the following gear oils for the Toyota 5 speed: Redline Gear Oil 75W Valvoline GL 5 80-90W, Kendall Gear Oil 75W or..... API Gear Oil GL4 or GL5. Is API a type of Gear Oil or a is it a standard that various oil oils must meet? For example, I saw Castrol Gear Oil with the API GL5 designation on the label. It just seemed strange that he specified Redline, Valvoline and Kendall by brand name. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 12/22/2007 2:02 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 23 16:58:20 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 15:58:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] Battery voltage In-Reply-To: <476EEA44.7020509@snet.net> Message-ID: <20071223235820.ZDWQ2629.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > Someone(Randall maybe) here recently stated what the > voltage that a fully charged 12 volt auto battery should > hold. Could you repeat it. > I'm rehabilitating a red top Lucas Pacesetter battery with > EDTA and was wondering what my goal should be. It's holding > 12.6volts after a full > charging. 12.6 under a light load is probably what I posted. Frequently you can get just a bit more with no load at all (known as 'surface charge') so it's best to test with a small load. Of course that is only one parameter, it tells you that it is acting like a battery but not what it's internal resistance is. For that, you need to put a very heavy load on it (like 300 amps) and check how far the voltage drops. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 23 17:12:45 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 16:12:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] Gear Oil Question In-Reply-To: <000001c845bd$9e6e1890$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20071224001244.QHUY29909.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > Is API a type of Gear Oil or a is it a standard that various > oil oils must meet? API is just a standard; a series of tests for the oil to meet. While it's always best to ask Herman what he meant; I would guess that he meant that the Redline, Valvoline and Kendall oils were ones that he had specifically gotten good reports with (or used himself); while the remainder of the statement went something like "or any GL4 or GL5 oil will do". Since the Toyota box is lightly loaded and known to be very reliable, it's likely not picky about what oil you use. Randall From team.net at daveola.com Sun Dec 23 17:57:26 2007 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 16:57:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ?? In-Reply-To: <29682114.523111198418879178.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net> References: <29682114.523111198418879178.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: I searched around quite a bit for insurance because my car is also a daily driver (and my only vehicle at the time). I tried a bunch of the classic companies and couldn't find anything that would work, and finally was surprised to discover that I should just stay with my current insurance company - State Farm. Turns out they can insure a vehicle for a declared value (within reason). So instead of worrying about fighting my insurance company if anything happens, I know that I'll be able to replace my vehicle. I learned my lesson after a friend of mine had his heavily modded motorcycle stolen and was saddened to discover/realize that his insurance only covered the market value of his motorcycle, and his $15k worth of mods were gone forever. Bad planning. > >> I asked the agent where she got that.... she > >> said from a TR4A advertised in Astoria.(?) > >> > >> She said to send her local ads for this model and they will reconsider. How much does it cost to take out an ad in your local paper? Just kidding... ;-) Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sun Dec 23 18:09:47 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 20:09:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gear Oil Question In-Reply-To: <000001c845bd$9e6e1890$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c845bd$9e6e1890$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: > Is API a type of Gear Oil or a is it a standard that various oil oils must> meet? For example, I saw Castrol Gear Oil with the API GL5 designation on> the label. It just seemed strange that he specified Redline, Valvoline and> Kendall by brand name.> > Thanks I think API stands for American Petroleum Institute or something like that. John H. From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Dec 23 18:51:49 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 20:51:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] timing basic Message-ID: <001701c845cf$8da55a70$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I ought to know this... I need to time my engine. Of course, the hole in the crankshaft pulley signifies TDC for #1 piston. But how can one tell if the distributor's rotor button should be pointing toward #1 spark plug wire or 180 degrees on the distributor cap from #1 (I know I need to take the BTDC advance into account). Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Dec 23 19:04:16 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 19:04:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] timing basic In-Reply-To: <001701c845cf$8da55a70$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001701c845cf$8da55a70$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: If you remove the valve cover it is pretty clear by watching the valves when #1 is ready to fire (both valves will have been closed for about 1/2 a crank rotation when the timing mark is reached). Bring it up to TDC on that stroke and look at the distributor to see if the points are more or less opening and where the rotor is pointing. If the distributor is positioned as it should be the rotor will be pointing at #1 plug but of course other positions may occur and may even work. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:51 PM Subject: [TR] timing basic >I ought to know this... > > I need to time my engine. Of course, the hole in the crankshaft pulley > signifies TDC for #1 piston. > But how can one tell if the distributor's rotor button should be pointing > toward #1 spark plug wire or 180 degrees on the distributor cap from #1 (I > know I need to take the BTDC advance into account). From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 23 19:26:24 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:26:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] timing basic In-Reply-To: <001701c845cf$8da55a70$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071224022624.UNZT29909.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > I need to time my engine. Of course, the hole in the > crankshaft pulley signifies TDC for #1 piston. > But how can one tell if the distributor's rotor button > should be pointing toward #1 spark plug wire or 180 degrees > on the distributor cap from #1 Several ways to do it. On the TRactor motor, probably the easiest is to look down the oil fill tube and watch the valves for #1. If either one is moving as the crank comes up to TDC (actually both are moving at TDC), then #4 is ready to fire. Randall From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Dec 23 21:04:40 2007 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 23:04:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR weights needed Message-ID: Anybody have the weight on 1) a TR6 windshield, 2) a TR6 windshield frame? I would think TR4's would be the same. Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ im is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a difference. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_Cause_Effect From DLylis at aol.com Mon Dec 24 05:59:06 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 07:59:06 EST Subject: [TR] timing basic Message-ID: Paul, Take out your plugs and rotate the engine by hand while sticking your finger (you choose the finger) in the #1 plug hole so that it is "sealed". The proper stoke will become self evident by the pressure blowing by your finger. If you have not done so already, make sure that little marker hole on the pulley is at TDC as it is supposed to be. Merry Christmas David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From DLylis at aol.com Mon Dec 24 06:06:40 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 08:06:40 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Gear Oil Question Message-ID: Bob, I think it is the American Petroleum Institute (API) and is a standardizing body. As you are using a Toyota box the GL5 may be OK. From my research and not experience, GL5 is not recommended for the TR box as the sulphur content wreaks havoc on the brass bushes. GL4 is specified. Toyota may have used alloys that the GL5 is OK with. Herman knows best. Merry Christmas David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From kentech0822 at verizon.net Mon Dec 24 07:04:27 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 09:04:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gear Oil Question In-Reply-To: <000001c845bd$9e6e1890$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c845bd$9e6e1890$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <002301c84635$e5edd840$7c01a8c0@KENTECHHP> FWIW I use Mobil1 gear lube in the Toyota W58 in my TR3A. I asked the parts guy at the Toyota dealership and he said that's all they've ever used. Before filling, I washed out the inside with a can of Marvel, sloshed it around a bit and poured it out. It went in clean and came out dirty so I assume it did the trick. PeterK -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Gear Oil Question This is probably about as basic a question as you can ask but....I'd rather ask and look dumb that not ask at all! Herman recommends the following gear oils for the Toyota 5 speed: Redline Gear Oil 75W Valvoline GL 5 80-90W, Kendall Gear Oil 75W or..... API Gear Oil GL4 or GL5. Is API a type of Gear Oil or a is it a standard that various oil oils must meet? For example, I saw Castrol Gear Oil with the API GL5 designation on the label. It just seemed strange that he specified Redline, Valvoline and Kendall by brand name. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 12/22/2007 2:02 PM From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Dec 24 07:07:12 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 09:07:12 EST Subject: [TR] Battery voltage Message-ID: 12.66v - fully charged, no load **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From tr6nut at verizon.net Mon Dec 24 08:10:03 2007 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 10:10:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Happy Holidays to All of You Message-ID: <476FCBCB.30402@verizon.net> I just wanted to take a moment and wish all of you a very Merry Christmas / Happy Hanukkah / Merry Festivus and a happy and safe New Year. Hugh Barber Stafford, VA '73 TR6 From DLylis at aol.com Mon Dec 24 08:59:02 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 10:59:02 EST Subject: [TR] Gear Oil Question Message-ID: As did I, however, change the tranny gear oil soon after. I was amazed at what came out in the new gear oil when I dumped it after a few hundred miles. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Dec 24 10:51:41 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 12:51:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gear Oil Question References: Message-ID: <00bb01c84655$a4769b20$2f1b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> > As did I, however, change the tranny gear oil soon after. I was amazed > at > what came out in the new gear oil when I dumped it after a few hundred > miles. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO =][============================================================================================ Folks, want to have some fun, drain and refill a "Model A" tranny, only takes 600 weight oil, thick, naw, it's thicker than thick. "FT" From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Mon Dec 24 12:59:20 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jimhearn1 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 19:59:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Gear Oil Question Message-ID: <122420071959.9955.47700F980008E859000026E32200758942CE029D0E0A08030706@comcast.net> Dave, what did come out in the new gear oil? Jim -------------- Original message -------------- From: DLylis at aol.com > As did I, however, change the tranny gear oil soon after. I was amazed at > what came out in the new gear oil when I dumped it after a few hundred miles. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes > (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as jimhearn1 at comcast.net From DLylis at aol.com Mon Dec 24 13:12:52 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 15:12:52 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Gear Oil Question Message-ID: Dark color. murky. After the initial dump it continues to have a normal gear oil color. I have a couple of friends who did the conversion as well and told them to dump their gear oil after a few hundred miles. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Dec 24 15:34:10 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 17:34:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Season's greeting to you all Message-ID: <476FED92.21376.97B257C@localhost> May your plugs glow brightly for the holidays. A little peace for all wouldn't be so bad either. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Dec 24 15:34:10 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 17:34:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gear Oil Question In-Reply-To: <00bb01c84655$a4769b20$2f1b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <476FED92.23103.97B24D0@localhost> On 24 Dec 2007 at 12:51, FRED E THOMAS wrote: > want to have some fun, drain and refill a "Model A" tranny Uh, is this an all-or-nothing proposition? I'd prefer yes for the first, but why I'd want to do the other two I have no idea. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Dec 25 09:11:38 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 11:11:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] harmonic balancer? Message-ID: <013601c84710$d59b6940$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Merry Christmas! I am converting my TR3 to an electric fan. I have removed the dog bolt and fan extension and am wondering about a possible upgrade. Several members have written to say they installed a harmonic balancer (in place of their fan extension?) Let me ask: Just what is a harmonic balancer? Several years ago, I instructed the engine shop to "balance" my motor during it's rebuild??? My guess is that it counterbalances some sort of wobble and is a step beyond 'balancing an engine during rebuild.' I am also guessing it can be added (to the hub?) at a later time. For the current time, I think a big, heavy-duty, and exactly centered washer will suffice. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 Another listee recommended a nifty solution shown at: < References: <013601c84710$d59b6940$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: That does look like a nifty solution. Can you repeat the source? The website didn't make to my email. Thanks John Howard On Dec 25, 2007 8:11 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote: > Merry Christmas! > > I am converting my TR3 to an electric fan. I have removed the dog bolt > and > fan extension and am wondering about a possible upgrade. Several members > have > written to say they installed a harmonic balancer (in place of their fan > extension?) > Let me ask: Just what is a harmonic balancer? Several years ago, I > instructed the engine shop to "balance" my motor during it's rebuild??? > My > guess is that it counterbalances some sort of wobble and is a step beyond > 'balancing an engine during rebuild.' I am also guessing it can be added > (to > the hub?) at a later time. > For the current time, I think a big, heavy-duty, and exactly centered > washer will suffice. > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 > > > Another listee recommended a nifty solution shown at: > < I > got the kit from > < > > Rick Patton > 5 Jeff St > Brunswick, Maine 04011 > rick at sidedrafttbi.com > > > http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/tr3_4eliminator.jpg > http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/tr34_eliminator_kit.jpg > > > I got good service & he was recommend by Bob Dannialson on the list. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From FGFO1 at aol.com Tue Dec 25 09:40:29 2007 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 11:40:29 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 426 Message-ID: merry christmas every one Frank Fisher **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From darrellw at ipns.com Tue Dec 25 09:48:03 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 08:48:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] harmonic balancer? In-Reply-To: <013601c84710$d59b6940$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <013601c84710$d59b6940$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <0DEDCC6B-9471-405F-8D3F-47AF91EAA089@ipns.com> Hi Paul, Another name for them is harmonic dampener, which maybe gives you a better idea what they do. They are usually some type of weight soft- mounted tot he pulley. The one I have replaces the entire crank pulley. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Dec 25 09:56:54 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 11:56:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] harmonic balancer? References: <013601c84710$d59b6940$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <0DEDCC6B-9471-405F-8D3F-47AF91EAA089@ipns.com> Message-ID: <002d01c84717$27648c60$650fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Although I might be wrong, I believe the TR6 already has a harmonic damper. The front pulley is a two-piece construction and you can see the rubber bonding between the parts. The following site shows the basic construction http://www.dalemfg.com/harmonicbalancer_002.htm If you are not planning on using the fan, you can use the top hat eliminator kit from Rick Patten (see http://www.topshamautoparts.com/tr6/eliminator.htm). NFI apart from the fact I bought one and it is very well made. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darrell Walker" To: "Paul Dorsey" Cc: "list Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 11:48 AM Subject: Re: [TR] harmonic balancer? > Hi Paul, > > Another name for them is harmonic dampener, which maybe gives you a > better idea what they do. They are usually some type of weight soft- > mounted tot he pulley. The one I have replaces the entire crank pulley. > > -Darrell > > -- > Darrell Walker > 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L > Vancouver, WA, USA > _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Dec 25 10:10:55 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 09:10:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] harmonic balancer? In-Reply-To: <013601c84710$d59b6940$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071225171055.OXCU15255.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Let me ask: Just what is a harmonic balancer? Well, first of all, it's a misnomer. There are some engines that do require an external balance weight but AFAIK Triumph never used any of them. So, what we are talking about is a "harmonic dampener" (or damper if you prefer). On a Triumph motor, it has nothing to do with balance. So, what is a harmonic dampener ? Well, it dampens harmonic vibration. Basically, a healthy crankshaft will "ring" like a bell if you rap on it just right (which some old-time engine builders used as a check for a sound crankshaft : a cracked or flawed crank won't ring). And each time a cylinder fires, it's rod thumps the crankshaft like ringing a bell. At certain rpms, the thumping matches the frequency the crank rings at, and the ringing gets louder and louder. (Not actually audible AFAIK, but the same principle.) The ringing of course adds extra stress to the crank (over and above the rods pounding on it) so under some circumstances the total stress can cause the crankshaft to break. So, the "harmonic dampener" dampens the vibration (ringing), reducing stress on the crank and (hopefully) keeping it from breaking. But, as best I can tell, the dampener is useless on a nearly stock street-driven TR2-4A motor. They simply do not (cannot) get operated under the conditions that lead to cranks breaking (basically prolonged full throttle operation at a particular rpm well beyond factory redline). So the harmonic dampener (on a TR3 motor) is primarily a racing part. > I am also > guessing it can be added (to the hub?) at a later time. True enough, but by the time you find out you need one, you'll also be rebuilding the engine. > For the current time, I think a big, heavy-duty, and > exactly centered washer will suffice. I thought that too; but experience proved I was wrong. The washer pulled up against the end of the crankshaft and did not clamp the hub tightly enough. Even though there is a key between the hub and the crank, there is always some play in the keyways, so the hub can vibrate back and forth. Mine eventually wore out the crankshaft, keyways and hub. Randall From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Dec 25 11:23:21 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 13:23:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] xmas ignition???????????? Message-ID: <013d01c84723$3df80130$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Isin't setting the points and setting the timing both doing the exact same thing? IOW, if one offsets the points this can be counteracted by the timing being offset (in the opposite direction)? Thanks, Paul Dorsey From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Dec 25 11:42:28 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 11:42:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] xmas ignition???????????? In-Reply-To: <013d01c84723$3df80130$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <013d01c84723$3df80130$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <653E21F8C2F7461B84A54F0C0BA058F3@GeoPC> Separate things but inter-related. You will always set the points first as changing the points gap will (slightly) change the timing. Then you can set the timing by rotating the distributor or (if little change is needed) adjusting the vernier. Next on my list is syncing the carbs as the engine doesn't not have to be warm for that and then adjusting the mixture (since the engine will have got warmed up while I synced the carbs). Finally a road-test for final timing adjustments, then a look at the plugs. But some of that is aways down the road for you I guess. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 11:23 AM Subject: [TR] xmas ignition???????????? > Isin't setting the points and setting the timing both doing the exact same > thing? > IOW, if one offsets the points this can be counteracted by the timing > being > offset (in the opposite direction)? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey From fishplate at charter.net Tue Dec 25 12:05:05 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 14:05:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] xmas ignition???????????? In-Reply-To: <013d01c84723$3df80130$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <013d01c84723$3df80130$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20071225190507.KYEV14098.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 01:23 PM 12/25/2007, Paul Dorsey wrote: >Isin't setting the points and setting the timing both doing the exact same >thing? >IOW, if one offsets the points this can be counteracted by the timing being >offset (in the opposite direction)? Yes, but... The points need a particular dwell time to optimally charge the coil. The magnetic field must be sufficiently strong to produce a spark of proper size. Too little dwell causes insufficient spark. Too much dwell doesn't leave enough time for field collapse, also making an insufficient spark - it may contribute to coil overheating, too, Jeff Scarbrough Christmas Island, Ga. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.8/1196 - Release Date: 12/25/2007 12:18 PM From mlang99 at comcast.net Tue Dec 25 12:39:36 2007 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 11:39:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <47715C78.70703@comcast.net> My wife gave me a TR3 carpet kit for Christmas. A very cool gift as it would have been one of the last items that I would have bought for my restoration project. She always buys me tools or parts that I want but probably wouldn't have coughed up the money for on my own. Anyone else get anything car related for Christmas? Mike From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Dec 25 12:45:01 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 14:45:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? References: <47715C78.70703@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00cc01c8472e$a3f48d40$85187247@fred8kwiskhcfu> > Anyone else get anything car related for Christmas? > > Mike > _______________________________________________ Yep my wife Debra !!!! She got a real nice 3 ton floor jack with matching jack stands !!!!! "FT" From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Tue Dec 25 12:50:12 2007 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 13:50:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB03954A@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Fred- As a divorce lawyer, you know I feel compelled to ask that you give your wife my name and number! Actually, properly used by you, jack stands are a great gift for her. Still, give her my info. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY > Anyone else get anything car related for Christmas? > > Mike > _______________________________________________ Yep my wife Debra !!!! She got a real nice 3 ton floor jack with matching jack stands !!!!! "FT" This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.8/1196 - Release Date: 12/25/2007 12:18 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.8/1196 - Release Date: 12/25/2007 12:18 PM From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Dec 25 13:38:46 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 15:38:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? References: <47715C78.70703@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001c01c84736$26ec0ff0$5918e247@DCS78M81> I got a red Triumph Stag 1:18 model that is an EXACT reproduction of my Stag. Awesome... Also, Jack Drews and Joe Alexander will be delivering the new project another TR3 in mid January. So an awesome Christmas at the Fansher's this year. Tom From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Dec 25 13:42:50 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 15:42:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? References: <47715C78.70703@comcast.net> <00cc01c8472e$a3f48d40$85187247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <003601c84736$b805c0d0$5918e247@DCS78M81> Dang, Fred, she's one lucky woman!! Tom > Yep my wife Debra !!!! She got a real nice 3 ton floor jack with matching > jack stands !!!!! "FT" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Dec 25 14:14:11 2007 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 16:14:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? In-Reply-To: <00cc01c8472e$a3f48d40$85187247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <47715C78.70703@comcast.net> <00cc01c8472e$a3f48d40$85187247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: Hmmmmm, reminds me of a few years ago when I gave Evelyn a set of sticky autox tires for Christmas. Hey. I thought it was a great present. Turns out I could have saved a bunch of money and bought her jewelry or something. Whodathunk it. Marty Yep my wife Debra !!!! She got a real nice 3 ton floor jack with matching jack stands !!!!! "FT" _________________________________________________________________ The best games are on Xbox 360. Click here for a special offer on an Xbox 360 Console. http://www.xbox.com/en-US/hardware/wheretobuy/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Dec 25 17:19:54 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 16:19:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? In-Reply-To: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB03954A@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Message-ID: <20071226001953.UCHH14392.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Actually, properly used by you, jack stands are a great gift for her. But after a present like that, she may not agree ! Randall From trbobtr at yahoo.com Tue Dec 25 18:50:41 2007 From: trbobtr at yahoo.com (Bob Rolfes) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 17:50:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] harmonic balancer? Message-ID: <958738.10416.qm@web90608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Paul, I removed the original fan but kept the dog bolt and fan extension in place. This allowed the hub and pulley to still bolt up to the crank without having to source a shorter dog bolt or worry about fitting a crank damper. My electric fan was mounted to the outside front of the radiator "pusher style"' I also mounted an oil cooler below the electric fan. Everything is out of sight and clear of steering linkage. My TR3 ran cool even in Texas summers. No need for a harmonic balancer or damper on a street driven car. Just my two-cents worth. Bob --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. From twakeman at razzolink.com Tue Dec 25 19:13:21 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 18:13:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] harmonic balancer? In-Reply-To: <958738.10416.qm@web90608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <958738.10416.qm@web90608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4771B8C1.9080704@razzolink.com> Bob Rolfes wrote: > No need for a harmonic balancer or damper on a street driven car. Just my two-cents worth. Umm .. may I suggest that you install a scatter shield, keep the rev's low & periodically check your main bearings. TeriAnn From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Dec 25 19:44:57 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 21:44:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] harmonic balancer? References: <013601c84710$d59b6940$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <027901c84769$4f3460b0$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> sure, i think he's on the list http://www.pattonmachine.com/FanOrderPrice.htm That does look like a nifty solution. Can you repeat the source? The website didn't make to my email. Thanks John Howard On Dec 25, 2007 8:11 AM, Paul Dorsey < dorpaul at negia.net> wrote: Merry Christmas! I am converting my TR3 to an electric fan. I have removed the dog bolt and fan extension and am wondering about a possible upgrade. Several members have written to say they installed a harmonic balancer (in place of their fan extension?) Let me ask: Just what is a harmonic balancer? Several years ago, I instructed the engine shop to "balance" my motor during it's rebuild??? My guess is that it counterbalances some sort of wobble and is a step beyond 'balancing an engine during rebuild.' I am also guessing it can be added (to the hub?) at a later time. For the current time, I think a big, heavy-duty, and exactly centered washer will suffice. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 Another listee recommended a nifty solution shown at: < References: <47715C78.70703@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4771C647.3090800@verizon.net> Michael Lang wrote: > Anyone else get anything car related for Christmas? > > This is probably the first Christmas in many moons that I did not receive any car-related stuff. I did however receive a left-handed guitar from my wife. I have always wanted to learn how to play and I am left-handed. I suppose now there's no excuse. However, I did give my 8-year old the "Cars" game for her Wii....... Hugh Barber Stafford, Va '73 TR6 From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Tue Dec 25 23:49:31 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 22:49:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 brake caliper question Message-ID: <000601c8478b$77ffacd0$b1191718@computer> I understand that there is a difference between the early and late TR6 brake calipers. Does anyone know if there are any performance differences such as using smaller pads, etc. or are they just different? Thanks, Jim Two '74 TR6s [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Dec 26 06:22:18 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 13:22:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 brake caliper question Message-ID: <122620071322.17688.4772558A00018A9E000045182207021573970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "jim hearn" > I understand that there is a difference between the early and late TR6 brake > calipers. Does anyone know if there are any performance differences such as > using smaller pads, etc. or are they just different? I haven't measured, but the pads in the later TR6 calipers visually seem to be slightly larger than the early ones. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Dec 26 07:07:23 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 14:07:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <122620071407.19450.4772601B0007B45A00004BFA22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Restoration here is done, but I did receive 5 hours of Click and Clack Car Talk shows on CD, including the one entitled "Doesn't somebody screen these calls?" Apparently they are called upon to diagnose dog behavior and whatnot, not just car issues. Hmmm...do you think they may be able to help solve my 13 year old's basketball team's problem with inbounding a pass against a full-court press? Jack stands, maybe? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire (buried in snow) From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Dec 26 07:56:52 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 09:56:52 EST Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: In a message dated 12/25/2007 11:40:18 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, mlang99 at comcast.net writes: Anyone else get anything car related for Christmas? I got a repro Tax Stamp for the windscreen of the TR6 from the UK.....I'm not quite sure yet how it gets mounted and there seems to be some disagreement among fellow TR club members as to which corner on the windscreen it should be placed but we'll get that sorted out as soon as I'm finished playing with my remote control bumble bee helicopter....it's great to be 10 years old again:) Cheers, Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From wbeech at flash.net Wed Dec 26 09:23:31 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 08:23:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] xmas ignition???????????? In-Reply-To: <013d01c84723$3df80130$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <244859.39093.qm@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Yes, Setting the points does affect the timing, this is why you set the points first, then set the timing. BillB/TR3 Paul Dorsey wrote: Isin't setting the points and setting the timing both doing the exact same thing? IOW, if one offsets the points this can be counteracted by the timing being offset (in the opposite direction)? Thanks, Paul Dorsey This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From cm.sherman at verizon.net Wed Dec 26 10:02:31 2007 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (sherman) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 12:02:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000f01c847e1$1be70dc0$4001a8c0@D55T0D61> I got an Eco 97 tireflator pump for the garage! A another project that requires refurbishing, but a nice piece a automobilia nevertheless. HoHo-Ho Corey Sherman No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date: 12/25/2007 8:04 PM From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Dec 26 10:04:52 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 17:04:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] xmas ignition???????????? In-Reply-To: <013d01c84723$3df80130$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <013d01c84723$3df80130$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Setting the points determines how long a plug fires. Setting the timing determines when the plug will fire. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ The best games are on Xbox 360. Click here for a special offer on an Xbox 360 Console. http://www.xbox.com/en-US/hardware/wheretobuy/ From pethier at comcast.net Wed Dec 26 11:13:36 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 18:13:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <122620071813.25204.477299D00004F6C30000627422007623029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the second day of Christmas, my true love gave to me Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 26 11:35:34 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 18:35:34 -0000 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? References: Message-ID: <012101c847ee$1ad6c350$0201a8c0@Bevan> Chip Krout wrote: > I got a repro Tax Stamp for the windscreen of the TR6 from the UK.....I'm > not quite sure yet how it gets mounted and there seems to be some disagreement > among fellow TR club members as to which corner on the windscreen it should be > placed but we'll get that sorted out as soon as I'm finished playing with my > remote control bumble bee helicopter....it's great to be 10 years old > again:) Chip, if you send me your snail address, I'll get you a genuine one from the UK and send it to you. They're minimal cost anyway. You feel off the white protective cover, insert the disc into the pocket on the front face and apply the whole thing to the inside of the screen in the left hand bottom corner OR to the top centre of the screen behind the rear view mirror stem. Press hard and with your fingertips make a circular pressing motion so it self-adheres. You can take it off and re-apply it many times, so its not a use once only. Cheers, Jonmac From pfischer at rmi.net Wed Dec 26 12:10:31 2007 From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 13:10:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? In-Reply-To: <47715C78.70703@comcast.net> References: <47715C78.70703@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4772A727.8080702@rmi.net> My husband bought me a Brit-flag mirror cover for my new MINI. I bought him a trunk-lid trim piece and brake pads he wanted for his Spitfire. We often gift car parts. Pat Fischer Roger Elliott Spitfire-GT6-TR250 Michael Lang wrote: >My wife gave me a TR3 carpet kit for Christmas. A very cool gift as it >would have been one of the last items that I would have bought for my >restoration project. She always buys me tools or parts that I want but >probably wouldn't have coughed up the money for on my own. > >Anyone else get anything car related for Christmas? > >Mike From pfischer at rmi.net Wed Dec 26 12:16:49 2007 From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 13:16:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation In-Reply-To: <000001c845b5$5e9688e0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <00ce01c845a0$feffa5b0$2394c94c@gcllawyers.local> <000001c845b5$5e9688e0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <4772A8A1.3000606@rmi.net> Actually, I don't recall if my current policy is agreed value or stated value. I'll call my agent and report back to this list. However, since we all are a little shaky on the terms - agreed vs. stated - it's very important to ask the question of your agent: Which do I have on my car? And what happens if...? Pat Joe Curry wrote: >I think the operative word you should be looking for is "agreed" value. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Dec 26 12:23:18 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 12:23:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? In-Reply-To: <47715C78.70703@comcast.net> References: <47715C78.70703@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4772AA26.1000801@tscusa.org> Michael Lang wrote: > My wife gave me a TR3 carpet kit for Christmas. A very cool gift as it > would have been one of the last items that I would have bought for my > restoration project. She always buys me tools or parts that I want but > probably wouldn't have coughed up the money for on my own. > > Anyone else get anything car related for Christmas? > > Mike > I got a Triumph to drive into and around my mouth ... Full options, 5 forward speeds and one reverse, and accessories. a.k.a. one Oral B "Triumph" electric toothbrush -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Dec 26 12:35:29 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 14:35:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A sale values to contest insurance company ??valuation References: <00ce01c845a0$feffa5b0$2394c94c@gcllawyers.local> <000001c845b5$5e9688e0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> <4772A8A1.3000606@rmi.net> Message-ID: <00fe01c847f6$79563980$13157247@fred8kwiskhcfu> > However, since we all are a little shaky on the terms - agreed vs. > stated - it's very important to ask the question of your agent: Which do > I have on my car? And what happens if...? > > Pat > > Joe Curry wrote: > >>I think the operative word you should be looking for is "agreed" value. ============================================================================================================= Have your car appraised by a independant appraiser and this is what you want to insure it for, your insurance co. value will be far below this figure, so your premium will also be quite a bit more, also stay with a specialty ins. company such as "Hagarty", you will need to update your policy value after 5 years or so to keep up with todays values "FT" From dorpaul at negia.net Wed Dec 26 12:57:29 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 14:57:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] xmas ignition???????????? References: <013d01c84723$3df80130$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <02ae01c847f9$8d5cb0f0$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> OOHHH! Now is see, Paul Setting the points determines how long a plug fires. Setting the timing determines when the plug will fire. Best regards, Tom From dorpaul at negia.net Wed Dec 26 13:06:10 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 15:06:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] xmas ignition???????????? determining timing? References: <013d01c84723$3df80130$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <653E21F8C2F7461B84A54F0C0BA058F3@GeoPC> <01b201c8474e$5868bf20$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <7C6FB0243656441B97F25DDE36B506C3@GeoPC> Message-ID: <02b301c847fa$c3ab7910$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I see- thanks! You set yours for 4 deg. BTDC. Templeton uses an 8 deg. setting, why the diff.? I know octane is a big reason, and a question of performance vs. fuel economy is also a big reason, altitude??? what else? Thanks , Paul 60 TR3 From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Dec 26 13:19:06 2007 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 15:19:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Who else got car parts for Christmas? In-Reply-To: <4772AA26.1000801@tscusa.org> References: <47715C78.70703@comcast.net> <4772AA26.1000801@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <6fa72a770712261219l3a486310p46cc50c976546962@mail.gmail.com> I got a book by some guy named Piggott called Original Triumph TR...... Happy Boxing day!!! From rhjgaj at pacbell.net Wed Dec 26 15:51:21 2007 From: rhjgaj at pacbell.net (Richard Johnson) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 14:51:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 Labor charge to replace rear crank seal Message-ID: <847401.74125.qm@web83721.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> It appears that the rear crank seal in my TR6 has gone bye-bye. What do you think would be a fair labor charge for getting to and replacing the seal? If the labor charge gets too big I guess I'll have to do it myself Thank you for your input. Richard 1973 TR6 From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Dec 26 16:06:16 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 18:06:16 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Labor charge to replace rear crank seal Message-ID: In a message dated 12/26/2007 4:51:52 PM Central Standard Time, rhjgaj at pacbell.net writes: > It appears that the rear crank seal in my TR6 has gone bye-bye. What do > you think would be a fair labor charge for getting to and replacing the seal? > If the labor charge gets too big I guess I'll have to do it myself > Step 1) remove transmission Step 2) remove flywheel Step 3) remove old seal and replace with new Assembly is revers of the above. In other words it will not be cheap due to the R/R of the trans and flywheel. And since the flywheel is off why not have it resurfaced and lightened? And while the transmission is out why not replace the clutch? (As you can see shipwright's disease sets in pretty heavily on this operation.) Good luck Dave From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Dec 26 16:44:38 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 16:44:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Labor charge to replace rear crank seal In-Reply-To: <847401.74125.qm@web83721.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <847401.74125.qm@web83721.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4772E766.20300@tscusa.org> Richard Johnson wrote: > It appears that the rear crank seal in my TR6 has gone bye-bye. What do you think would be a fair labor charge for getting to and replacing the seal? > If the labor charge gets too big I guess I'll have to do it myself > > Thank you for your input. > Richard > 1973 TR6 > Richard, The official British Leyland - Triumph Repair Time Schedule for TR6, in Group 1, Section 1 (Engine), Operation Number 1-115E "Crankshaft rear Oil Seal, Replace ....06.30" which is 6 hours and 30 minutes. A Flat Rate Mechanic will do it in 4 hours, but the charge will be the same because it will be priced by the job. This assumes a certified Factory Trained fully apprenticed mechanic. This is also one of those jobs that you say ... "while I am in here, I may as well replace ..." -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From ZoboHerald at aol.com Wed Dec 26 17:18:34 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 19:18:34 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Labor charge to replace rear crank seal Message-ID: In a message dated 12/26/2007 6:45:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: The official British Leyland - Triumph Repair Time Schedule for TR6, in Group 1, Section 1 (Engine), Operation Number 1-115E "Crankshaft rear Oil Seal, Replace ....06.30" which is 6 hours and 30 minutes. ==AM== Are you sure that isn't 6 hours and 18 minutes? Regardless, maybe it got easier later on; my Triumph Repair Time Schedule gives 7.50 hours to replace the crankshaft rear oil seal. But that's for the TR6PI, which might make a difference? :-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From trbobtr at yahoo.com Wed Dec 26 18:14:34 2007 From: trbobtr at yahoo.com (Bob Rolfes) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 17:14:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] harmonic balancer? Message-ID: <439420.7030.qm@web90601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> TeriAnn wrote: Ummmmmm, why? All I have removed is the fan from the end of the extension. This might change the crank harmonics slightly but it still is not a big of change. The fan eliminator kits I have seen posted here remove even more weight and there is no damper in sight. http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/tr3_4eliminator.jpg Scatter shield, low revs, and main bearings? Seams like over concern to me. Bob --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Dec 26 18:48:43 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 20:48:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] xmas ignition???????????? In-Reply-To: References: <013d01c84723$3df80130$e294df4a@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <4772BE2B.17597.7D808E2@localhost> On 26 Dec 2007 at 17:04, tom white wrote: > Setting the points determines how long a plug fires. Not be a nitpicking scrub, but this just slightly misses the point (no pun intended :-). Plugs start to fire the moment the points open and, yes the firing does require a small time interval. But the important issue is the time spent closed, not the time spent open. The time spent closed is the critical period for coil current to build up for the next firing. During the firing portion, as long as there is enough time at all, once the plug has fired any extra time they spend open is of no consequence. After that the points need to be closed only long enough to build up the perfect current; any longer simply heats up the coil. At high rpms you could run out of time between firings, and the most likely problem is running out of current-build-up time, not actual firing time. The point being, you aren't really adjusting the time for firing, you're adjusting the time for getting ready for the next firing. Consider: At 6000rpm a 4-cylinder has 12,000 firings per minute, for 5msec per firing. Suppose the dwell duty cycle (i.e. the percentage of time spent closed) is 50%. This means 2.5msec open, 2.5msec closed. By comparison, 2000rpm allows 15msec between firings. But if 2.5msec is long enough for 6000rpm, it should be long enough for 2000rpm too. So at 2000rpm the dizzy could be open for 12.5msec, and closed for 2.5msec. In theory this would keep the coil cooler. (I've never had a coil go bad [** knock on wood dashboard] but some of you folks apparently have.) Of course, dizzies don't work that way. If it was set to 50% then the closed and open times would both be 7.5msec. When "setting the points", one typically sets dwell by adjusting the maximum gap to which the points open. If the cam lobes are symmetric (and the points don't bounce too much), both the opening time on one side of the lobe and the closing time on the other side are affected, both moving either closer to or further from the max-open point. That's why you have to set the timing last. You have to restore the proper opening time which got changed when you adjusted the point gap. Happy New Year, everyone! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From pethier at comcast.net Wed Dec 26 21:44:46 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 04:44:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <122720070444.22338.47732DBE00021AD00000574222007511509D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Larry Steckel > Hey Man, > You did good. > > Larry Steckel I can hardly wait for tomorrow. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Dec 26 22:13:28 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 22:13:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Labor charge to replace rear crank seal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47733478.9090200@tscusa.org> ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 12/26/2007 6:45:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > > The official British Leyland - Triumph Repair Time Schedule for TR6, in > Group 1, Section 1 (Engine), Operation Number 1-115E "Crankshaft rear > Oil Seal, Replace ....06.30" which is 6 hours and 30 minutes. > > > ==AM== > Are you sure that isn't 6 hours and 18 minutes? Regardless, maybe it got > easier later on; my Triumph Repair Time Schedule gives 7.50 hours to replace the > crankshaft rear oil seal. But that's for the TR6PI, which might make a > difference? :-) > > --Andy Mace > Andy, You are correct, the time is in hours and tenths / hundreds, not hours and minutes. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Dec 27 07:30:58 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 09:30:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Labor charge to replace rear crank seal In-Reply-To: <47733478.9090200@tscusa.org> References: <47733478.9090200@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <8CA16AC3B6A707A-8A8-B5B@FWM-M05.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Glenn A. Merrell Andy, You are correct, the time is in hours and tenths / hundreds, not hours and minutes. ==AM== With today's labor rates, that 12 minutes' difference comes in around $15! Probably would almost pay for the seal.... ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Thu Dec 27 11:03:05 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 11:03:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Battery voltage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Per my Auto Electronics I class I just completed - 12.6v. The battery contains 6 cells and each cell should be 2.1v, (2.1v x 6 = 12.6v). Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Dec 27 11:04:04 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 18:04:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] zerk fittings Message-ID: <122720071804.25955.4773E914000489720000656322165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Happy New Year, all. Couple of the zerk fittings on my '59 TR3A stock suspension are among the missing. Anybody know whether these straight metric I can pick up locally, or some odd thread I would need to order from one of the Big Three? (Silly question: you guys know EVERYTHING.) Terry Smith (TS 58667) New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Dec 27 11:18:14 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 10:18:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] zerk fittings In-Reply-To: <122720071804.25955.4773E914000489720000656322165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <122720071804.25955.4773E914000489720000656322165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <038a01c848b4$d86e7590$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Couple of the zerk fittings on my '59 TR3A stock suspension > are among the missing. Anybody know whether these straight > metric I can pick up locally, or some odd thread I would need > to order from one of the Big Three? Not metric, IIRC they are a mix of 1/4 UNF and 1/8 NPT. The ones in the U-joints are specials, but I believe everything else can be found at your FLAPS, or even the kit from HF. Randall From TeamTiger21 at aol.com Thu Dec 27 11:46:56 2007 From: TeamTiger21 at aol.com (TeamTiger21 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 13:46:56 EST Subject: [TR] FREE newsletters Message-ID: If you would like a group of 13 2005 to current VTR and TRA newsletters FREE, send me your address. Barry **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From drsandner at embarqmail.com Thu Dec 27 12:07:19 2007 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 14:07:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] glass Message-ID: hi john, glass is glass.............depends on thickness. take to local glass shop, along /c piece of broken [for thickness]. they will probably cut it while you wait randy From pethier at comcast.net Thu Dec 27 13:09:40 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:09:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <122720072009.22183.477406840005E695000056A722007621949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the third day of Christmas, my true love gave to me Three Italian air horns Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Fri Dec 28 15:09:55 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 22:09:55 +0000 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <122820072209.6570.4775743300083AB1000019AA22007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the fourth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me Four Hoosier slicks Three Italian air horns Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Dec 28 16:37:25 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 18:37:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? In-Reply-To: <122820072209.6570.4775743300083AB1000019AA22007589429D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <47754265.5608.11AC88F1@localhost> On the 5th day of Christmas my true love gave to me Five compression rings > On the fourth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me > Four Hoosier slicks > Three Italian air horns > Two SU carbbies > And a shop vac underneath the tree. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Dec 28 19:45:23 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 21:45:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter TR6 Message-ID: <000901c849c4$dc3fde50$284d3b47@Scott> I am getting ready to install a new gear reduction starter in my '70 TR6 and wanted to be sure I install it in the correct orientation. Does the solenoid face up or down? On the original, it faces up, but on the upgrade, if it faces up, this places the wire connections on the bottom (r/w to male connector and 2 brown wires and positive battery wire to bolt and nut). TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Fri Dec 28 19:51:00 2007 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 21:51:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Battery box replacement Message-ID: <000f01c849c5$a56a6f20$6700a8c0@andy> For those of you that have been there, done that, and got the T-shirt; How do you get the upper lip of the new battery box under the scuttle assembly? Does the lip go in first and the box tilt down into the body? Does the box go in first and then pry the scuttle assembly over the lip? Cut more metal from the bulkhead and weld a replacement strip in later? Remove the scuttle assembly? (please, no!) TIA Andy No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date: 12/27/2007 1:34 PM From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Fri Dec 28 20:02:36 2007 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 22:02:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Battery box replacement Message-ID: <001701c849c7$440a62b0$6700a8c0@andy> Whoops! That would be for a TR3A battery box No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date: 12/27/2007 1:34 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date: 12/27/2007 1:34 PM From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Dec 28 20:09:20 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 20:09:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Emissions in the future-is retrofitting possible? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4775BA60.70505@tscusa.org> JODY A MORRISON wrote: > Hello to all... > There is a movement afoot here in Colorado instigated by the Colorado > Automobile Dealers (read, new car dealers) to get all pre-1990 cars off the > roads here in Colorado. In a telling remark in the article, the pre-1990 cars > are referred to as 'jalopies'. Their spokesman states that "5 percent of the > vehicles out there - made in 1990 and before - are responsible for more than > half, and perhaps three-quarters of the emissions." Of course this makes no > mention of the favorite Colorado Commuter Vehicles ( aka, high dealer-profit > vehicles)....diesel pickups, Escalades, Hummers, hemi-powered anything, etc. > etc. > > It appears to be a transparent effort to divert attention away from any > attempts to require new cars/trucks/SUVs to have much higher mpg ratings and > to sell more new cars. Duh..... > > You can read the article and form you own opinions at: > http://www.rockymountainnews.com/news/2007/dec/28/saying-no-to-clunkers/ ://www.rockymountainnews.com/news/2007/dec/28/saying-no-to-clunkers/> > > ... > As I think about my grandsons inheriting my treasure I must wonder if they > will ever get to actually drive it. > > Happy New Year to all..... > Larry M > TR250 project in Colorado > Larry, For us Coloradans, this has got to get the attention of every car club in Colorado. I will be raising this issue at the next Colorado English Motoring Conclave meeting 23rd January 2008 and request that each member get back to their respective clubs. I do not think however that they will outlaw classic cars 25 years old or older. There is a fairly strong lobby with classics, and "Hot Rods" even recently obtained their own license "Hot Rod" plate in Colorado just like collector vehicles. Our emissions testing only applies to standard tags and post 1981. Special tags for collector vehicles only require a tail pipe 2000 RPM test. If the car can pas clean car emissions, which my Stag can with EFI, you can still get standard plates. Re improving emissions, just go an EFI setup with O2 sensor feedback and cat's. It will give you performance in Colorado right up into altitude and allow you to meet or exceed emission specs -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From rbtr3a at cox.net Fri Dec 28 23:00:06 2007 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 01:00:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] drive shaft flange needed Message-ID: <035d01c849e0$1314c790$6401a8c0@ronniej94vilm0> Hi Everyone I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas, I recently had a diff failure on my Sports 6. I am replacing the unit with a late model Spit diff. However today I discovered that I need to replace drive shaft flange to mate with the diff's input flange. If anyone has a spare late flange that you are willing to part with could you please contact me. Ronnie Babbitt From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Sat Dec 29 00:43:16 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 23:43:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wanted - Double or triple Weber carb set up Message-ID: <000801c849ee$797e3ee0$b1191718@computer> Does anyone have or know of a used double or triple Weber carb set up for a TR6 that is for sale? Thanks, Jim Two '74 TR6s [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From acey2525 at aol.com Sat Dec 29 15:24:14 2007 From: acey2525 at aol.com (acey2525 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 17:24:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Battery box replacement In-Reply-To: <000f01c849c5$a56a6f20$6700a8c0@andy> References: <000f01c849c5$a56a6f20$6700a8c0@andy> Message-ID: <8CA1880AD41EFC4-DB8-24A7@WEBMAIL-DF15.sysops.aol.com> Andy,? Did I ever buy the t-shirt on that job.? Maybe there's an easier way but after wrestling and staring at it for a week, I decided to cut the battery box straight across right above the bend (the neck that goes under the sill) put both pieces in place and weld it.? I ground the weld down, bondo'd and painted it.? Not an easy task but it turned out looking unnoticeable in the end.? Jack McMahon Philadelphia, PA 59 TR3A ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From pethier at comcast.net Sat Dec 29 15:42:15 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 22:42:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <122920072242.519.4776CD470008D9F50000020722007343649D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the fifth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me FIVE MINILITES Four Hoosier slicks Three Italian air horns Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From bdischer at blakedischer.com Sun Dec 30 06:06:40 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 08:06:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Emissions in the future-is retrofitting possible? In-Reply-To: <4775BA60.70505@tscusa.org> References: <4775BA60.70505@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <6BA2E218-1FF3-498A-8041-FF5AFB5C3B3F@blakedischer.com> Hi Jody, This sort of legislation is constantly underway in many, many States across the country. Fortunately, in almost every case, it is defeated (or a compromise is reached softening the bill's reach), sometimes at the last possible minute, as the bill moves through the legislative process. In my role as President of The Vintage Triumph Register (VTR), I am in contact with the folks at the SEMA Action Network (SEMASAN), which is an arm of SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market Association). SEMA is a trade association for manufacturers which produce parts for the motor vehicle aftermarket. A big portion of their member's customer base are the hot-rodders, street-rodders and antique/classic car enthusiasts. During 2007, their efforts helped win legislative victories in issues effecting old car enthusiasts in Arizona, Arkansas, California, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Maryland, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Montana, Nevada, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Texas, Virginia, West Virginia and Wyoming. Colorado is on their radar, their last success there was in 2006 in a bill concerning vehicle smog inspections for kit cars. VTR will continue to work with SEMASAN in their efforts, assisting in any way it can. I encourage everyone to join SEMASAN, it's free to join as a hobbyist. Get involved. http://www.semasan.com (Home page of their site with lots of information, a valuable resource including drop down menus for zeroing in on issues you may be concerned about by State and instructions about how to contact your legislators.) Cheers and Happy New Year, Blake J. Discher, President Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org > JODY A MORRISON wrote: >> Hello to all... >> There is a movement afoot here in Colorado instigated by the Colorado >> Automobile Dealers (read, new car dealers) to get all pre-1990 >> cars off the >> roads here in Colorado. From pethier at comcast.net Sun Dec 30 09:15:21 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 16:15:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <123020071615.9939.4777C4190001241A000026D322007511509D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the sixth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me Six Jimmy Clark gloves FIVE MINILITES Four Hoosier slicks Three Italian air horns Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Dec 30 10:35:48 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 12:35:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover Message-ID: <200712301235.48297.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hello, I am looking to replace the very old cover on my TR3A and also get a new cover for the TR4. Does anyone know of a supplier of these items? Moss sells one which fits 16.5 wheels but if I measured correctly the 4 is 16 and the 3 is 17. The existing cover on the 3 I believe is an original AMCO part very old and ready for the trash. I would like to go with a similar style, black and laced from the inside. Thanks, Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 30 10:22:27 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 09:22:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <200712301235.48297.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <20071230172227.GAXH22150.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > I am looking to replace the very old cover on my TR3A and > also get a new cover for the TR4. > > Does anyone know of a supplier of these items? I'd also like to know if anyone has a source for inside-laced, leather covers to fit TR3A. The one I got from Moss some decades ago was very nice and fit perfectly, but the years of California sun and benign neglect have taken their toll. There was a rumor some time ago that Pep Boys had a suitable cover, but I was never able to find one in my local store. Randall From jmitch at snet.net Sun Dec 30 10:41:57 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 12:41:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <200712301235.48297.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200712301235.48297.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <4777D865.9010105@snet.net> I've used the wheel skins with great success. They will custom cut to size. Not sure if this is what you mean by inside laced, but the lacing is not very noticeable. www.wheelskins.com John Mitchell 76 TR6 Bob Labuz wrote: > Hello, > > I am looking to replace the very old cover on my TR3A and also get a new cover > for the TR4. > > Does anyone know of a supplier of these items? > > Moss sells one which fits 16.5 wheels but if I measured correctly the 4 is 16 > and the 3 is 17. > > The existing cover on the 3 I believe is an original AMCO part very old and > ready for the trash. > > I would like to go with a similar style, black and laced from the inside. From spitlist at cox.net Sun Dec 30 11:10:15 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 11:10:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <200712301235.48297.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200712301235.48297.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <000901c84b0f$3a788a30$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Bob, If you are handy and creative, you can go to an upholstery shop and get some remnants and make your own. You have to get a curved upholstery needle and some strong nylon thread. If you practice a bit before getting started, you will find that making a nice stitch pattern is rather easy. The end effect is much better than what you typically find using an off the shelf kit. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 10:36 AM To: Triumph Email List Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover Hello, I am looking to replace the very old cover on my TR3A and also get a new cover for the TR4. Does anyone know of a supplier of these items? Moss sells one which fits 16.5 wheels but if I measured correctly the 4 is 16 and the 3 is 17. The existing cover on the 3 I believe is an original AMCO part very old and ready for the trash. I would like to go with a similar style, black and laced from the inside. Thanks, Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sun Dec 30 11:30:24 2007 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 10:30:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover References: <20071230172227.GAXH22150.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <002101c84b12$10d79ec0$8701a8c0@Dell> >> I am looking to replace the very old cover on my TR3A and >> also get a new cover for the TR4. >> >> Does anyone know of a supplier of these items? > > I'd also like to know if anyone has a source for inside-laced, leather > covers to fit TR3A. The one I got from Moss some decades ago was very > nice > and fit perfectly, but the years of California sun and benign neglect have > taken their toll. > > There was a rumor some time ago that Pep Boys had a suitable cover, but I > was never able to find one in my local store. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ I got mine at Pep Boys about 5 years ago. It was the right diameter - or maybe it stretched to the right diameter - but was too wide, that is, it was for a wheel with a larger cross section. I put it on over the old cover and it's been fine. Don't know if they still have them but I will look next time I am there. Bob From stantr6 at comcast.net Sun Dec 30 12:16:21 2007 From: stantr6 at comcast.net (stantr6 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 19:16:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover Message-ID: <123020071916.20856.4777EE85000538DB000051782216557996C09D9B020E9B9C@comcast.net> Bob, List, I second the recommendation to use Wheelskins. I did on my TR6 and the result looks great. They will make it to size, and it includes an inside cord to pull the thread against, and the holes for sewing. Provide the diameter and grip circumference as per their instructions. NOTE - the say "tight is right !", and they mean it. At first, you may believe they sent one that it too small (I did); it goes on snug and you will get a work out sewing it on, but the results are worth it. NFI, Stan -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Joe Curry" > Bob, > If you are handy and creative, you can go to an upholstery shop and get some > remnants and make your own. > > You have to get a curved upholstery needle and some strong nylon thread. If > you practice a bit before getting started, you will find that making a nice > stitch pattern is rather easy. > > The end effect is much better than what you typically find using an off the > shelf kit. > > Joe C. > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Labuz > Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 10:36 AM > To: Triumph Email List > Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover > > Hello, > > I am looking to replace the very old cover on my TR3A and also get a new > cover > for the TR4. > > Does anyone know of a supplier of these items? > > Moss sells one which fits 16.5 wheels but if I measured correctly the 4 is > 16 > and the 3 is 17. > > The existing cover on the 3 I believe is an original AMCO part very old and > ready for the trash. > > I would like to go with a similar style, black and laced from the inside. > > Thanks, > > Bob > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Dec 30 15:58:32 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 17:58:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <4777D865.9010105@snet.net> References: <200712301235.48297.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <4777D865.9010105@snet.net> Message-ID: <200712301758.32636.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 30 December 2007 12:41 pm, John Mitchell wrote: > I've used the wheel skins with great success. They will custom cut to > size. Not sure if this is what you mean by inside laced, but the lacing > is not very noticeable. > www.wheelskins.com John Mitchell 76 TR6 > John, Stan, Thanks for the link. Looks like Wheelskins is the best. I will be giving them a call this week as soon as I can get out in the garage to make the measurements. I will follow up with a report once the skins are here and installed for anyone who is interested in the 3A and 4 std wheels. Bob From trglory at comcast.net Sun Dec 30 15:24:15 2007 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 17:24:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Shifter Message-ID: <001c01c84b32$b709a610$251cf230$@net> Im thinking about a special shift knob for my TR3 resto. Having measured the threaded shaft, I find it to be approx. 7/16x32. This is a size I never heard of but I will need to find a tap to make the knob insert. Does anyone have any idea what I have here? Joe Laurito Central PA Triumph Club No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1202 - Release Date: 12/29/2007 1:27 PM From blambert at socal.rr.com Sun Dec 30 16:00:58 2007 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 15:00:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] Shifter In-Reply-To: <001c01c84b32$b709a610$251cf230$@net> Message-ID: <000701c84b37$d80e27f0$6401a8c0@dennis12345> Yes, 7/16 x 32 is correct. There are taps to be found - just cruise the net. Or, if you have a buddy that's handy with the lathe perhaps you can persuade him to single-point thread one for you using a drilled-out nut of a similar size. Dennis Im thinking about a special shift knob for my TR3 resto. Having measured the threaded shaft, I find it to be approx. 7/16x32. This is a size I never heard of but I will need to find a tap to make the knob insert. Does anyone have any idea what I have here? Joe Laurito Central PA Triumph Club From cak at dimebank.com Sun Dec 30 16:16:21 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 15:16:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover Message-ID: <200712302316.lBUNGLQw002819@moose.dimebank.com> Look for the brand "Wheelskins" - I've been using them for 20 years or more. They should be able to cut any size you need if it's not available on the shelf. I recall the default being to lace these with a dyed leather thong rather than the double-needle thread that might be the original finish on a Moto-Lita wheel. If you really want to reproduce that, you might need to look further. Try an aftermarket supplier of Momo wheels and see if they sell supplies. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Dec 30 17:00:34 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 16:00:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Shifter In-Reply-To: <001c01c84b32$b709a610$251cf230$@net> Message-ID: <20071231000034.JQSA14392.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Having measured the threaded shaft, I find it to be approx. > 7/16x32. This is a size I never heard of but I will need to > find a tap to make the knob insert. Likely there are cheaper sources; but McMaster-Carr carries 7/16-32 taps. http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=2345 (near the bottom, under "special thread taps") Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Dec 30 18:02:57 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 20:02:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Flywheel Lightening Message-ID: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> Happy New Year folks...... While I have my engine and tranny out I hope to have my flywheel lightened and balanced. I seem to recall that there are "dangers" in taking too much weight off relative to impacting drivability. Can someone enlighten (sorry.....bad pun) me as to what is an acceptable flywheel weight for a "daily driver". I also found this one on eBay ( http://tinyurl.com/2dplo8 ). Any comments on this product? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1203 - Release Date: 12/30/2007 11:27 AM From darrellw at ipns.com Sun Dec 30 18:13:20 2007 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 17:13:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] Flywheel Lightening In-Reply-To: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <501A58BC-25CF-4ADE-BFA9-B4C3966204AD@ipns.com> Hi Bob, I installed an aluminum flywheel from TSI on my 4A. I just checked and I don't see a weight listed, though I recall that it was less than half the weight of the stock one. I've been very happy with it, no drivability issues for me. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Dec 30 18:43:52 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 20:43:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] leather steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <4777D865.9010105@snet.net> References: <200712301235.48297.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <4777D865.9010105@snet.net> Message-ID: <001501c84b4e$997345e0$284d3b47@Scott> I used this on my TR6 and am a very satisfied customer. Key to installation is to take your time sewing it up, use knitting hooks to constantly pull the thread tight (it will not rip the leather) and run your thread on the back side of the spokes. A great fit and feel that revitalizes an old steering grip. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Dec 30 20:19:09 2007 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 22:19:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 tub removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ok folks, just how big a job is it to pull the tub off a TR6. I am doing some work in the barn on the TR6 and as I pick out things on my wish list to do while I have things apart would be to do some frame re-enforcements. In my mind I always pictured pulling the tub off as a big project that once started would keep leading to one more next thing that would need done. Interior is out of the car right now. Can you leave the engine and drive train in the car and and just pull the tub off, then do what needs done and then just drop it back down and bolt it back on? It probably cant be that simple but I thought I would ask. What say ye experts out there? Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007 From ms6453 at optonline.net Sun Dec 30 20:37:14 2007 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 22:37:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Flywheel Lightening In-Reply-To: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <477863EA.1080706@optonline.net> Hi Bob, I have the Fidanza flywheel in for a few years and love it. All of the plus's of a lighter flywheel without the fear of 30 year old metallurgy flying apart. Besides, you'll never be able to lighten the steel flywheel enough to compare to the aluminum unit , 13lb w/the ring gear. If you go this route let Herman know , he had to make a special pilot bushing to work with the flywheel & W58 gear box. The new bushing also fits in the end of the crank. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From N197TR4 at cs.com Sun Dec 30 21:44:09 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 23:44:09 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Flywheels Message-ID: Miscellaneous Thoughts Flywheels are a good subject. I am convinced that it is the best bang for the performance buck, when lighter than stock.....a very good article was done on this in the Six Pack Magazine. TR flywheels are notoriously heavy....there appeared to be a need for the market to be able to smoothly accelerate in fourth gear from 20 mph. maybe the Brits were thinking of the Americans and their Slush-O-Matics. Going on, some folks report stalling the car with a 10# flywheel on startup. Might be the X factor. (The difference between driving styles) Take a look at the offerings that Miata has for flywheels. One is 9#s for competition and one is 13# for street/autocross. That may validate my "X" factor. Perhaps. I prefer the 10# steel design for my TR4 #197, but that may just be personal preference. And I was able to acquire one for a reasonable price from Germany In extreme applications alloy flywheels have been known to come adrift. On the other hand, Greg Solow has run alloy flywheels under great duress for 25 years without a problem (in four cylinder TR engines) Another "X" factor condition? Otherwise, I would go with with a lightened flywheel done by a competent machinist with a good set up....Richard Seaton has a good sounding recommendation. Great price, too. Always a consideration for me. Finally, sometimes a good pair of jeans fit just right...and sometimes they dont. Might depend on what you stuff in them. Or as Forest Gump says.... Joe A > Hi Bob, > > I have the Fidanza flywheel in for a few years and love it. All of the > plus's of a lighter flywheel without the fear of 30 year old metallurgy > flying apart. Besides, you'll never be able to lighten the steel > flywheel enough to compare to the aluminum unit , 13lb w/the ring gear. > If you go this route let Herman know , he had to make a special pilot > bushing to work with the flywheel & W58 gear box. The new bushing also > fits in the end of the crank. > > -- > Mitch Seff > Oceanside, N.Y. > From N197TR4 at cs.com Sun Dec 30 22:00:42 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 00:00:42 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 tub removal Message-ID: Marty! How are you? I have pulled off a few TR3 and a few TR4 bodies with and without the engine in place. I have always put the body on a complete chassis assembly. Removing the body allows amazing access to places you would never get to otherwise. In most cases, I made a roll around platform for the body. This presents the body at a good work height and storage on the base of the platform below. I never found it necessary to weld or bolt stabilizing bars within the bodywork. I doubt if they did on the assembly line, either. Jacking up the chassis to work height is also much easier. Work is easier and the final product is more satisfying. Frame reinforcing on a TR chassis is a good idea, as you already know. All that being said, I hope I never do another frame off project. Dont want to leave my widow with that mess. :-) Joe A > Ok folks, just how big a job is it to pull the tub off a TR6. I am doing > some > work in the barn on the TR6 and as I pick out things on my wish list to do > while I have things apart would be to do some frame re-enforcements. In my > mind I always pictured pulling the tub off as a big project that once started > would keep leading to one more next thing that would need done. Interior is > out of the car right now. Can you leave the engine and drive train in the > car > and and just pull the tub off, then do what needs done and then just drop it > back down and bolt it back on? It probably cant be that simple but I thought > I > would ask. What say ye experts out there? > > Thanks, > Marty > > From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Dec 31 06:31:49 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 08:31:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cool New Triumph Site Message-ID: <001b01c84bb1$8135f230$210110ac@bobspc> What better way to start the year then to brag about a cool new web site that I got to work on................and it's totally Triumph related. Rick Patton, of TBI fame, asked me a few months ago if I'd be interested in building him a new site. I jumped at the chance and after about 2 months of working with Rick and List Member's Aaron Cropley & Dave Friedlander on design and content, we've gone live! You can check it out at http://www.pattonmachine.com/ Comments always welcome. Happy New Year! Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1203 - Release Date: 12/30/2007 11:27 AM From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Dec 31 08:23:32 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 10:23:32 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 tub removal Message-ID: In a message dated 12/30/2007 9:20:09 PM Central Standard Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: > Ok folks, just how big a job is it to pull the tub off a TR6. I am doing > some > work in the barn on the TR6 and as I pick out things on my wish list to do > while I have things apart would be to do some frame re-enforcements. In my > mind I always pictured pulling the tub off as a big project that once > started > would keep leading to one more next thing that would need done. Interior is > out of the car right now. Can you leave the engine and drive train in the > car > and and just pull the tub off, then do what needs done and then just drop it > back down and bolt it back on? It probably cant be that simple but I thought > I > would ask. What say ye experts out there? > Pulling the tub is not difficult but there are many things that need to be disconnected. Things like brake lines and electrical cables. Yes you can leave the drive train in place. In fact I advocate that if you are doing a frame off you should install the entire drive train before mounting the tub. (I also highly recommend installing the throttle cross shaft before mating but that's another story). You will need to disconnect everything that interconnects the items that are staying on the frame with the items that will be leaving with the tub. That includes brake lines, clutch line, electrical wiring to the engine and transmisison and a host of other things I am probably forgetting at the moment. Then there are some 47 bolts that mount the tub to the frame. 47 is an exageration but there are some 15 ot 17 bolts and some of those will be rusted so you may end up cutting off a few. If you have a glow wrench* it will be much easier. The bare tub is light enough for three people (maybe even two stout men) to lift off. If you leave a bunch of stuff attached like fenders, hood and trunklid it will weigh more. Be sure to leave the doors attached and closed (or brace the door openings) to avoid the tendency of the tub to fold up in the middle. Once the tub is off do everything you have a mind to do to the frame before putting the two back together. That includes suspension, brake lines, and frame repair. It will be much easier than addressing these things after the tub is mounted. Cheers Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Dec 31 09:09:05 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 16:09:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] Frame reinforcing for TR3A. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Why are you folks reinforcing the frames of TR3As? I have always considered the frame to be one of the strongest of it's class. With boxed rails and an I beam "X" in the center it should handle any load a stock or modified TR engine gives it. I am running a 302 Ford in mine and have never had a problem with the frame that I know of. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ im is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a difference. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_Cause_Effect From pethier at comcast.net Mon Dec 31 09:24:35 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 16:24:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] car parts for Christmas? Message-ID: <123120071624.24778.477917C30008F3FB000060CA22058844849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the seventh day of Christmas, my true love gave to me Seven Lotus Sevens Six Jimmy Clark gloves FIVE MINILITES Four Hoosier slicks Three Italian air horns Two SU carbbies And a shop vac underneath the tree. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Dec 31 10:01:38 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 12:01:38 EST Subject: [TR] Frame reinforcing for TR3A. Message-ID: Tom, Triumph Chassis will handle just about anything, but it does flex. Jack up one corner and it flexs alot. Full cage in my TR4 stiffens the chassis and improves the handling. If all four jack stands are not presented to the frame at the same height, on my car, one does not touch. Chassis Stiffness allows the suspension to do it's job. (A RATCO replacement chassis will also help this along) This and a lot of other things will eventually transform a street or race car into something other than a manufacturing compromise. Then add some Toyo Proxes (street tires) into the mix. Good stuff. However, I dont do most of this stuff to my Street TR3A....a lightened flywheel and a good set of tires is all that it needs to be happy. Joe A TR3A TS30854 L TR4 T15008L AMBRO-TR ARE-001 > Why are you folks reinforcing the frames of TR3As? I have always > considered the frame to be one of the strongest of it's class. With boxed rails and > an I beam "X" in the center it should handle any load a stock or modified TR > engine gives it. I am running a 302 Ford in mine and have never had a problem > with the frame that I know of. > > Best regards, > Tom > From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Dec 31 10:13:22 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 09:13:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Flywheels In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071231171322.DMWM15255.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Going on, some folks report stalling the car with a 10# > flywheel on startup. > Might be the X factor. (The difference between driving styles) I'd like to chime in here, as I am one of those people. There is no doubt in my mind that I got spoiled by many years of driving a stock TRactor motor to work every day in stop and go traffic. Gobs of low-end torque (due in large part to the heavy stock flywheel) combined with the stump-pulling 3.38 first gear of the original 3-synchro gearbox make an engine that is hard to stall, even deliberately. With a smooth clutch release, you can move forward the next 10 feet in traffic without even touching the throttle. Then I switched to an alloy flywheel, with lighter diaphragm clutch and a 4-synchro box with 2.99 first gear. Yeah, I had trouble with killing the engine; but only on slow starts (like when rolling forward the next 10 feet in Los Angeles traffic). Hard launches were no problem (and were significantly faster due to both the lighter flywheel and more useful 1st gear). > Take a look at the offerings that Miata has for flywheels. IMO, even a stock Miata is easier to kill (and harder to launch quickly) than my TR; even after making the above mods to the TR3A. Bottom line, you can learn to drive anything, even if it makes no torque at all below 3000 rpm. It just takes some of us longer to learn ! (Insert line about old dogs & new tricks) I will definitely be moving the lightweight setup to my 'new project' TR3 when the opportunity arises. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Dec 31 10:15:46 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 09:15:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] Frame reinforcing for TR3A. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071231171545.INVS7875.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > With boxed rails and an I beam "X" in the center > it should handle any load a stock or modified TR engine gives > it. Well, some of us also like to go around corners. And I can definitely feel mine flex in hard turns; tho I haven't tried any stiffening measures yet. Randall From 6parts at charter.net Mon Dec 31 12:04:02 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 14:04:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Valve numbering tr6 Message-ID: <006201c84bdf$e879dd70$03d30c47@alan> This is my age old question: When adjusting the valves where do the numbers start?? Is number one toward the seat compartment or is it at the front , where the radiator is? Thanks Al From flashtr3 at cox.net Mon Dec 31 13:02:45 2007 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 12:02:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] Battery box replacement References: <000f01c849c5$a56a6f20$6700a8c0@andy> Message-ID: <013301c84be8$1d61be60$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I just finished my battery box replacement this year. My box was being held together with fiberglass and bondo as I knew in time this was going to be a major task in repair. I have attached some pics for your review. I cut along the seams (some of the seams had not rotted away) of the old box, and spot welded the box in place not touching the scuttle plate assy. Take your time, grind down the welds and use fillers to smooth out the work. Good luck, Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 6:51 PM Subject: [TR] Battery box replacement For those of you that have been there, done that, and got the T-shirt; How do you get the upper lip of the new battery box under the scuttle assembly? Does the lip go in first and the box tilt down into the body? Does the box go in first and then pry the scuttle assembly over the lip? Cut more metal from the bulkhead and weld a replacement strip in later? Remove the scuttle assembly? (please, no!) TIA Andy No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date: 12/27/2007 1:34 PM _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR battery box.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR battery box-after.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of eng.frnt cmprtmnt..JPG] From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Dec 31 14:18:58 2007 From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 16:18:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] StanPart Seat Belt Label question References: <000f01c849c5$a56a6f20$6700a8c0@andy> <013301c84be8$1d61be60$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <000901c84bf2$c264e4a0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> I came across a pair of rather old Britax seat belts, reading "Made in England by Fleet Surrey" on the back. Mechanically they're ok, needing some heavy polish and dye work, however the labels both appear to need replacing. Is anyone familiar with a source for these. I guess my other alternative would be to try and digitally rretouch and recreate them in PhotoShop and print out on a foil or chrome type paper? Appreciate the help and Happy New Year. Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of StanPart Belt Label.pdf] From spitlist at cox.net Mon Dec 31 14:32:31 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 14:32:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] StanPart Seat Belt Label question In-Reply-To: <000901c84bf2$c264e4a0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> References: <000f01c849c5$a56a6f20$6700a8c0@andy><013301c84be8$1d61be60$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> <000901c84bf2$c264e4a0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Message-ID: <001601c84bf4$a65ee740$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Is it the Square Triumph Shield on a square background? If so, I have been selling reproduction stickers on high quality vinyl for $4.00/ pair. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Willner Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 2:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] StanPart Seat Belt Label question I came across a pair of rather old Britax seat belts, reading "Made in England by Fleet Surrey" on the back. Mechanically they're ok, needing some heavy polish and dye work, however the labels both appear to need replacing. Is anyone familiar with a source for these. I guess my other alternative would be to try and digitally rretouch and recreate them in PhotoShop and print out on a foil or chrome type paper? Appreciate the help and Happy New Year. Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of StanPart Belt Label.pdf] This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Dec 31 14:39:36 2007 From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 16:39:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: StanPart Seat Belt Label question Message-ID: <001301c84bf5$a44c3e70$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Probably a good idea to point to the photo... http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r237/davewillner/?action=view¤t=StanPartBeltLabel.jpg Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Willner" To: Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 4:18 PM Subject: [TR] StanPart Seat Belt Label question >I came across a pair of rather old Britax seat belts, reading "Made in >England > by Fleet Surrey" on the back. Mechanically they're ok, needing some heavy > polish and dye work, however the labels both appear to need replacing. Is > anyone familiar with a source for these. I guess my other alternative > would be > to try and digitally rretouch and recreate them in PhotoShop and print out > on > a foil or chrome type paper? Appreciate the help and Happy New Year. > > Dave Willner > Stroudsburg, PA > 59 TR3A Apple Green > 70 MGB BRG > 70 BSA 441 Victor Special > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a > name of StanPart Belt Label.pdf] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Mon Dec 31 14:41:02 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 14:41:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] StanPart Seat Belt Label question In-Reply-To: <000901c84bf2$c264e4a0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> References: <000f01c849c5$a56a6f20$6700a8c0@andy><013301c84be8$1d61be60$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> <000901c84bf2$c264e4a0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Message-ID: <001701c84bf5$d6cf4e00$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Oops. That Should have read: "on a BLACK Background" Joe Is it the Square Triumph Shield on a square background? If so, I have been selling reproduction stickers on high quality vinyl for $4.00/ pair. Joe -----Original Message----- To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] StanPart Seat Belt Label question I came across a pair of rather old Britax seat belts, reading "Made in England by Fleet Surrey" on the back. Mechanically they're ok, needing some heavy polish and dye work, however the labels both appear to need replacing. Is anyone familiar with a source for these. I guess my other alternative would be to try and digitally rretouch and recreate them in PhotoShop and print out on a foil or chrome type paper? Appreciate the help and Happy New Year. Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special From 6parts at charter.net Mon Dec 31 15:12:02 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 17:12:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Valve numbering tr6 References: <006201c84bdf$e879dd70$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <006b01c84bfa$2b99b520$03d30c47@alan> Thanks all, Got it figured out. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> To: ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 2:04 PM Subject: [6pack] Valve numbering tr6 > This is my age old question: > > When adjusting the valves where do the numbers start?? > > Is number one toward the seat compartment or is it at the front , where > the > radiator is? > > Thanks > > Al From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Dec 31 17:37:53 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 19:37:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 tub removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200712311937.53280.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hello and Happy New Year to all! When I removed the tub from the TR4 project, In addition to all the electrical, steering, fuel, brake, clutch etc, I also removed the carbs. And on re-fitting the tub to the completed frame, I removed the carbs as I had installed them to test the engine etc. There just didnt seem to be enough room with the carbs on. I believe it took me < 1/2 hour to re-mount the completed tub on the frame. To my surprise, everything lined right up and I had all the bolts in and tight in another hour. And all by myself using only a couple of smalll pully - blocks I got at HF to lower the tub. Those pully - blocks (block and tackle) really helped alot as I could lower inches at a time, align and lower etc. 1 on the front and one on the rear. Bob From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Dec 31 17:02:36 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 19:02:36 EST Subject: [TR] Frame reinforcing for TR3A. Message-ID: In a message dated 12/31/2007 8:19:54 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: Why are you folks reinforcing the frames of TR3As? I have always considered the frame to be one of the strongest of it's class. With boxed rails and an I beam "X" in the center it should handle any load a stock or modified TR engine gives it. I am running a 302 Ford in mine and have never had a problem with the frame that I know of. Best regards, Tom The only problem I had with mine was when I went over a railroad crossing in an industrial area too fast. The crossing was very crude. the railroad rail stood up high enough to hit the frame rails. I peeled back the covering on the frame rails like a sardine can for maybe an inch or so. My car also stopped. Instantly. Fortunately, I was wearing a seat which caused some bruising. Mike Moore **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From pethier at comcast.net Mon Dec 31 21:09:03 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2008 04:09:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] Valve numbering tr6 Message-ID: <010120080409.12856.4779BCDF0005A1510000323822070216339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> > When adjusting the valves where do the numbers start?? > > Is number one toward the seat compartment or is it at the front , where the > radiator is? In Triumph cars (unlike my former Lotus Europa!) the number one cylinder is towards the front of the car. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Dec 31 21:34:39 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 23:34:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Valve numbering tr6 In-Reply-To: <010120080409.12856.4779BCDF0005A1510000323822070216339D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <47797C8F.7454.294836E@localhost> On 1 Jan 2008 at 4:09, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > > Is number one toward the seat compartment or is it at the front, > > where the radiator is? > > In Triumph cars (unlike my former Lotus Europa!) the number one > cylinder is towards the front of the car. That's because your Europa's engine was in the wrong end of the car. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From pethier at comcast.net Mon Dec 31 21:50:33 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2008 04:50:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] Valve numbering tr6 Message-ID: <010120080450.10619.4779C69900080F480000297B22007504389D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Jim Muller" > On 1 Jan 2008 at 4:09, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > > > > Is number one toward the seat compartment or is it at the front, > > > where the radiator is? > > > > In Triumph cars (unlike my former Lotus Europa!) the number one > > cylinder is towards the front of the car. > > That's because your Europa's engine was in the wrong end of the car. Exactly. In the FWD Renault R16, the transaxle was in front of the engine, so they numbered the cylinders starting at the clutch end. The whole thing was rotated 180 degrees to build the mid-engined Europa, so the number 4 cylinder faces the front of the car. Yes, they had new ring-and-pinion gears made so the car went the correct direction. :-) -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From banc8004 at comcast.net Wed Dec 26 06:34:24 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 08:34:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] The New Triumph Guide Message-ID: I picked up "The New Triumph Guide" from an online used book seller for around $7. This issue, by Dave Allen and Dick Strome was updated by Michael Cook in 1970. This enjoyable pocket-sized book covers the development of the Triumph cars from Buttercup, to the TRs, and through to the GT6. My favourite section, though, is 'The Gendarme who goofed' - the story of the 1958 Alpine Rally, from the perspective of Bob Halmi, a photographer and sports-car driver. In just four pages you sense the camraderie, adventure and thrills these cars brought their entrpreneurial owners. With 58 starters - many private owners - there were only 18 finishers of the 70-odd hour, 2,800 mile course, which was flat for only one tenth of its length, and described as a 'nightmare of unpaved, twisting, narrow mountain roads where guard rails were rare'. It must have been intimidating. Driving today in the alps, with paved roads and guard rails everywhere, is still 'exciting'. Six TR3s entered the race. Three comprised the factory team, three were private owner-drivers, one of which was driven by a team of women; Halmi of NYC and Dick Smth of Quakrtown PA, in a TR3, were the only Americans. The time trial was set on the road course at Monza. To avoid penalty points an average of 90 mph had to be ahieved. Halmi led this secton with an average of 100.7 mph, earning bonus points in the process. After the time trial, Maurice Gatsonides (presumably in a works TR3) was on for a Gold Cup having achieved two consecutive finishes without penalty points. A third would win the Gold Cup. However, after the time trial, a protruding rock took out the brake hydraulics. Yet he resolved to continue the race by having his copilot slow the racing car by pulling on the hand brake when Gatsonides yelled "Brake!". In this way they'd negotiate the next tight corner, then acelerate away. Afer one slow reaction from the braker, the car ended against a bluff. Both were able to race another day, though the Gold Cup was gone. Halmi tells the story of running out of gas at 5AM atop a mountain, and searching for gas to 'borrow' to finish the leg. They found none, so freewheeled down the mountain, and the brakes held out! Then comes the tale of the Gendarme, who allowed a local's Pugeot to enter the course. Halmi collided with the Pugeot head on. To separate the cars, they unbolted all the front end of the TR3 - wings, lamps, bumper and grille, and left them stuck in the French car. Halmi tells that only the radiator remained damaged, and they repaired this with a couple of handfulls of cement. The delay took away a third-in class position and they arrived at the finish just as the trophies were being handed out. Amazingly, each of the Trumphs from the race were DRIVEN back to England. Triumph repaired and restored Halmi's car which was then shiped out to his home in Connecticut. I find it all the more amazing that this was just 50 years ago. Were it that motor racing were that exciting and 'affordable' now, with private owners having every chance of winning. A few copies of the book, in varoius editions, are available online for under $10. Cheers! Brian Valley Forge, PA 1963 TR4 CT14455L From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat Dec 29 07:14:53 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 09:14:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] First full year with my TR4 Message-ID: <2059A90D-FDF1-47A8-8759-24E4B6FDFA46@comcast.net> From acquisition in Fall 2006, this has been my first full year with my first 4-wheeled Triumph. Ownership resulted through a motorcycle accident that involved a disputed right-of-way between a white tailed deer and me on a two-wheeled Triumph (Sky Line Drive, Shenandoah National Park, VA). I needed a safer pursuit, and here's where I landed: A 'driver' TR4, Signal Red, black/white interior, white hood and tonneau. Built on September 19, 1962; registered as a '63 when imported and sold by Genser and Forman of New Jersey. She's CT 14455 L. The car had sat for the best part of 10 years, garaged. It 'benefitted' from a 1992 body-on restoration. The interior seemed the POs main concern, it was a new leather & wool carpet interior, installed by TRF. The car had electrical and mechanical issues, but was still drivable. Several electrical items didn't work. Though days after bringing the car home I could not get it to start. Triumph Rescue lived up to their name, and collected my car. I was a bit dismayed, but Matt told me there was no one major issue, but a series of factors contributing to a whole: engine ground, new points, etc. All as a result of lengthy storage. I knew I had much to learn. Other electrical issues, not the fault of Lucas, also needed attention. Electrical connections comprising twisted wire and black tape will only hold out so long. Some switches were broken, but thanks to ebay and the big three, all were soon resolved. Continued difficulty in starting and a lumpy idle led me to diagnose a failed exhaust valve on #1. Compression was low on this cylinder. A squirt of oil to seal the rings didn't improve it, and I had copious soot at the tailpipe and blow-by the oil filler cap. Last winter I took the head off. This was beyond my maintenance comfort zone, but I had collected several books, found this list and enjoyed the challenge. No burned valve or seat was to be found, however. I was rewarded though, by discovering an oversize valve guide on #1 exhaust valve. This gave a 40 thou gap to the valve stem instead of 3 or 4 thou, though the o/d was stock. The valve was literally rocking from side to side in its bore, allowing exhaust gasses on the combustion stroke to escape into the valve cover. I found a home-made technique in the archive to remove and replace the guide. With new springs, the rebuilt head started immediately.....I had now had a smooth idle, and able to better sense the carb and timing adjustments. I was gaining a better feel for how smooth this engine can be. Brakes were next: I had only one pad wearing in each caliper, but the rears were OK. Overall, I had marginal brakes at best. Getting the seized pistons out of the calipers was a challenge. Compressed air could only remove the stiff but working piston. I ended up literally hammering the other two out. Restored and bled, with stainless steel flexible lines, my brakes now work effectively. Under firm braking, I can chirp the tires and even lock them up, such is the improvement in stopping power. A refurbishment of the cooling system, including my replacing the brass tap on the engine block, released an eggcup-full of green sand - casting sand I guess - from the block. My back-flushed stock system has not yet shown any tendency to overheat even in Philly's humid summer and heavy traffic. U-joints, better headlights, new burled walnut dash (replacing a matt oak, solid plank that half obscured the turn signal/ignition lights) followed. An uncomfortable shake at 50 to 60 mph led me erroneously down the prop shaft balancing route. The cause turned out to be the car's original steel wheels. They were not true in any direction. I replaced them with 60-spoke chrome Daytons with the Fall offer from TRF. Though a gift to myself, I was not sure when I clicked 'send' on that order if I'd feel I had value for money. The whole setup, including true-to-the-car's-age white wall tires, was a couple of thousand dollars. I now know it was worth every penny, to me. My final resolution this year was to overcome suspension-related shakes, rattles and bumps. An ill-fitting stainless exhaust system that had been poorly installed was resolved by a local custom exhaust shop: they managed to 'silence my silencer'. Remaining noises were elusive but resolved by tightening & retightening every nut and bolt on the rear suspension. Now, when I drive over rough road, even 'washboard' tarmac, I expect to hear the usual complaints from the car. I am still slightly surprised, and not a little pleased, to hear none. Yesterday, in anticipation that we will soon actually get a winter in Pennsylvania, I did a full fluid exchange: engine, tranny and diff. I took off and resealed the diff back plate that had been weeping, fixing the stretched bolt holes by DPO's over-tightening, and made a new gasket. I then adjusted the valve clearances. I took more care over this than I have ever before. Not that I was sloppy previously, but unless you use feeler gauges frequently, I think it is an uncertain art. In browsing the old archives, as I am wont to do from time to time, I came across a post suggesting using the .009", .010" and .011" feelers as a set. So if you are unsure if say, the .10 is too tight, try the .11, and adjust accordingly. Its an 'obvious' idea, but I'm sure I am not the only one not to have worked with feelers in this way, am I? With much more precision in my adjustments, the car is now quieter than it has ever been. So quiet and smooth, I had to call my son out of the house yesterday, to listen to it. Its quieter than my BMW, my wife's Lexus and my son's Chrysler. It runs better than ever, with simply terrific acceleration. Which is the point of this post. Like the feeler gauge technique, I have learned so much from this list. So many people I may never meet have helped me. Some have gone out on a cold night to their garage to take a picture to send me to explain something I could not visualise. The people who contribute to this list help more than just the guy they are responding to, they help many, coincidentally. This list is a tremendously civil (yes I've seen the flame wars and handbags in the archive), altruistic achievement built over the years by so many of you that has helped me improve a 45 year-old car I bought a year or so ago. She'll never be a show car, but is now a serviceable, presentable driver with a rich patina of use, that I enjoy to drive. She's better now than when I bought her, and its been fun. Which is the point, really, isn't it? Cheers, and thanks, everybody. Happy New Year!. Brian Valley Forge, PA