From tedtsimx at bright.net Wed Aug 1 07:03:49 2007 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 09:03:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wedge front springs References: Message-ID: <46B084B5.8030109@bright.net> All springs are quoted in terms of ride height based on OE specs. We make springs that lower the car 1" form OE spec. This may, in some cases, raise the ride height of the car. In the case of our springs, they are guaranteed not to sag or set. The car will sit 1" lower than the day it was new, but it will not go any lower 2, 3 or 5 years from now. Now for segue, we are about to do another prduction run of these springs. As an incentive to order now, teh first 20 springg orders will be sold at $145/set of r vs teh normal price of $185. Commercial now over. Ted TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 7/31/2007 2:55:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, >McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: > > > > >>What springs did you get that make it sit so low? - hope you put bump stops >> >>on those Konis in the front - you can bend one or destroy the valving if it >> >>bottoms without bump stops. >> >> >> > >Jack, >I did renew the bump stops. I put standard rated springs in from one of the >big three. I was looking for the correct ride height. I do not wish to >install any uprated springs that in theory lower the car but I may have to go that >route since my confidence is low now on the standard springs available. >Thanks, >Darrell > > >************************************** > Get a sneak peek of the all-new >AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour >_______________________________________________ >tedtsimx at bright.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From bbrewer at tvwireless.net Wed Aug 1 09:40:56 2007 From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 08:40:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes Message-ID: <1741C8C2-6A9D-47E3-BD99-F3051732FF38@tvwireless.net> Hi Harold, My apologies from rubbing you wrong on this one. I am an easily satisfied customer. Stating it more clearly, I was looking to see if there were less expensive good quality tires available because the Michelins seem to be getting too high priced. The local guys want $140 apiece for Michelin XZX's mounted and balanced. The Kumhos (made in China?) seem questionable to me and a far-eastern tire on a Brit car just doesn't seem right. I just thought that someone on the list might know a less expensive route for a quality tire. I found out the Coker has Vred's at a favorable price. There appears to me to be an automotive food chain out there with the tire guys in my small town diving in the shallow end of the gene pool. I wish that we had a quality wheel and tire place we could trust, but we don't. It is becoming a lost art, for wire wheels especially. If it ain't a pick-em-up truck, these boys won't know what to do with it. The only thing lower here is the oil change guys (kids). The last time I used them for my wife's car, they used an impact wrench (?!?!?) on the oil drain plug and stripped it. They used a generic low quality filter. I should have done it myself. I haven't revisited the Brit car wire wheel/tire dilemma for about 4 years now and am looking to the list for good advice. I am proud that I have worn the tread off of my Michelins. About 40,000 miles in 4 years for the toy car. Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA Message: 6 Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 20:36:07 EDT From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I Find the e mail listed below rather troubling. 1. Complaint the last set of quality tires were more than they would like to spend. ( I suspect the tires gave excellent results ) 2. Quoting a low price for a tire (only, no install ) that is out of stock then complaining in # 3. 3. Calling the shop who can get the obsolete size tire and install it at a reasonable cost " buffoons ". Seems there will be no satisfying this person, reminds me of one of the reasons why I closed my shop 10 years ago. I suspect when a low cost tire is located complaints of poor quality will surface. How do I know the tire at Tire Rack is out of stock? I'm looking for a set for a older SAAB. Harold To: triumphs at autox.team.net > I am back to the perennial question of tires and tires sizes for > a TR3. My last set were Michelin 165-15's that were more expensive > that I would have liked. The only 165-15's that I find on tirerack.com > are Kumhos for $32 each. The local tire buffoons what > $65 each for the same Kumhos mounted & balanced. My best friend says > use Vredesteins or something like that. Another TR friend got a set of > Cooper Metrics. > ************************************** From triosan at gmail.com Wed Aug 1 12:10:27 2007 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 11:10:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] What springs do I have? Message-ID: <8cbd782d0708011110y745bbf23w61e795971e4b194f@mail.gmail.com> A few years ago I replaced the front and rear spings in my TR6. Do not remeber who I got them from, though probably either Moss or BPNW. The fronts are red, the rears blue with yellow dashes on each loop. The fronts may have a second color also, just cannot remember. Anybody have any idea about what rate these have? and what their heights are? -- Chuck Arnold From BrianSmith1 at templeinland.com Wed Aug 1 12:11:51 2007 From: BrianSmith1 at templeinland.com (Smith, Brian (CP)) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 13:11:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tires et al Message-ID: Bill, Don't shy away from Kumho's. They are a very good tire. I replaced a set of Michiens on my wifes car with a set of Kumho's and have been very satified with. I plan on buying a set for my Spitfire IV and my mini van in the near future. At any price they come highly recommended (just read some of the reviews on Tire rack). It was because of these reviews that I tried my first set. Again, the reasonable pricing is just a bonus. Brian Smith Bogalusa, LA ********** Confidentiality Notice ********** This electronic transmission and any attached documents or other writings are confidential and are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) identified above. This message may contain information that is privileged, confidential or otherwise protected from disclosure under applicable law. If the receiver of this information is not the intended recipient, or the employee, or agent responsible for delivering the information to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, reading, dissemination, distribution, copying or storage of this information is strictly prohibited. If you have received this information in error, please notify the sender by return email and delete the electronic transmission, including all attachments from your system. From rtriplett25 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 1 12:29:08 2007 From: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com (richard triplett) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 11:29:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 wheel options: stop me before I do something crazy Message-ID: <190591.43293.qm@web53410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I am going crazy trying to drive on my old out-of-tune 48 spoke wires on TS75434. Floppy and noisy! I am thinking of trying minilites or something of the like and found an auction on Ebay that offers adapters that change bolt pattern from TR3 to something more universal. For instance, BMW Mini wheels fit the adapter. I then looked at tire rack and found these wheels for $99 ea: http://www.latoth.org/images/tr3wheel.jpg Change center logo to Triumph and WALAH! Might just have a cool wheelset. $240 for the adapters + $396 for the wheels = cheaper than minilites. Thoughts? Can I find adapters for cheaper than $240? Thanks From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 1 12:40:48 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 11:40:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tires et al In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <017001c7d46b$7accf4b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Don't shy away from Kumho's. They are a very good tire. I > replaced a set > of Michiens on my wifes car with a set of Kumho's and have been very > satified with. I plan on buying a set for my Spitfire IV and > my mini van in > the near future. At any price they come highly recommended > (just read some > of the reviews on Tire rack). It was because of these > reviews that I tried > my first set. Again, the reasonable pricing is just a bonus. Personally, I would want to wait until the current flap over defective tires from China is resolved. Although AFAIK Kumho has not yet been named as one of the brands affected; it appears that some of their tires are made in the same plant that made the recalled tires. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From pethier at comcast.net Wed Aug 1 12:47:57 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 18:47:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 wheel options: stop me before I do something crazy Message-ID: <080120071847.20920.46B0D55D000A16C4000051B822058844849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: richard triplett > I am going crazy trying to drive on my old out-of-tune > 48 spoke wires on TS75434. Floppy and noisy! I am > thinking of trying minilites or something of the like Decide if you like the wire-wheel look. If you do, replace the 48s with a set of painted 60s from Dayton. I bought mine on sale at TRF. The Dayton engineer assures me that the painted wheels are stronger and more rigid than the chrome. If you want to go alloy (and I would have if my wife was not stuck on wires!), the KN Minator made in England is fairly inexpensive. And you don' t need to fool with adaptors. > and found an auction on Ebay that offers adapters that > change bolt pattern from TR3 to something more > universal. For instance, BMW Mini wheels fit the > adapter. > > I then looked at tire rack and found these wheels for > $99 ea: > > http://www.latoth.org/images/tr3wheel.jpg Not the best wheel to balance. No outside rim for weights. My daughter has a set of these on her Suzuki Esteem. > Change center logo to Triumph and WALAH! Might just > have a cool wheelset. $240 for the adapters + $396 for > the wheels = cheaper than minilites. > > Thoughts? Can I find adapters for cheaper than $240? I think adaptors are second-choice. I'd rather have a wheel bolted directly to the hub. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 1 12:53:17 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 14:53:17 EDT Subject: [TR] The Good, the Bad, and the KONE KILLER Message-ID: In a message dated 7/31/2007 11:19:15 PM Central Daylight Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > Get a load of this look! Just needs a smoking stogie > http://www.fireflystudios.com/vtr2007pix/index_6.htm#103 > Damn paparazzi! From mark at nashvilletn.org Wed Aug 1 12:55:11 2007 From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 13:55:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 wheel options: stop me before I do something crazy References: <190591.43293.qm@web53410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <016401c7d46d$7deee340$8500a8c0@CT> For about $25 more you can have Superlites and they will look right and fit right ! You won't look like a rice racer nor will you need a 1000 watt set of subs. :) Check out http://www.packracingproducts.com/acatalog/TR-_2__250__3__4__5_&_6.html No Connection but it is what I would do???? Mark Nashville http://www.ArrestMeRed.com ----- Original Message ----- From: richard triplett To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 1:29 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 wheel options: stop me before I do something crazy I am going crazy trying to drive on my old out-of-tune 48 spoke wires on TS75434. Floppy and noisy! I am thinking of trying minilites or something of the like and found an auction on Ebay that offers adapters that change bolt pattern from TR3 to something more universal. For instance, BMW Mini wheels fit the adapter. I then looked at tire rack and found these wheels for $99 ea: http://www.latoth.org/images/tr3wheel.jpg Change center logo to Triumph and WALAH! Might just have a cool wheelset. $240 for the adapters + $396 for the wheels = cheaper than minilites. Thoughts? Can I find adapters for cheaper than $240? Thanks From McGaheyRx at aol.com Wed Aug 1 13:02:31 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 15:02:31 EDT Subject: [TR] Tires et al Message-ID: In a message dated 8/1/2007 1:41:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Personally, I would want to wait until the current flap over defective tires from China is resolved. Although AFAIK Kumho has not yet been named as one of the brands affected; it appears that some of their tires are made in the same plant that made the recalled tires. Really? hmmm... A Korean company (Kumho) is having tires made in China? or is a Chinese company having tires made in Korea? BTW Kumho has a very large presence in the competition market niche - stroll thru the paddock at an autocross, hill climb or time trial and you'll see a lot of Kumhos and likely not hear a bad word about them. Cheers Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Aug 1 14:17:43 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 16:17:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tires et al In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8C9A29026EC2876-A64-9722@MBLK-M24.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: McGaheyRx at aol.com Really? hmmm... A Korean company (Kumho) is having tires made in China? or is a Chinese company having tires made in Korea? ==AM== I don't know the country of record for Kumho, but I'm pretty sure the Kumhos on my mom's Mercury Mystique, my daughter's Toyota Paseo (for sale) and my Toyota Corolla beater are all made in China. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Aug 1 14:41:48 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 13:41:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tires et al In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <915D3BE87729496FB2785B5A5A5B1FC3@GeoPC> I have the 165x15s on my TR4 and so far am quite pleased. Chose those just because there was little else available locally. Tire Rack prices looked good until I added mounting & balancing at the local Goodyear dealer they would ship to... about $25 per tire. The Kumhos I have were made in China. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 12:02 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Tires et al > Really? hmmm... > A Korean company (Kumho) is having tires made in China? or is a Chinese > company having tires made in Korea? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 1 16:14:55 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 15:14:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tires et al In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01b501c7d489$640e5f20$6a5636cc@navcom.com> McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote : > Really? hmmm... > A Korean company (Kumho) is having tires made in China? or is a Chinese company having tires made in Korea? Hard to say which it is. Kumho's headquarters are in Korea, but they have as many plants in China as in Korea (and one in Vietnam). http://www.kumhotire.com/company/info/info_position01.jsp > BTW Kumho has a very large presence in the competition market niche - stroll thru the paddock at an autocross, hill climb or time > trial and you'll see a lot of Kumhos and likely not hear a bad word about them. I agree, I've never heard a bad word about them. But maybe it's only ordinary passenger car tires that are made in China ? Dunno, just wanted people to be aware. Likely the recall won't affect any Kumho tires ... but I would hate to be the one to find out that it should have. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Aug 1 17:49:31 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 19:49:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] tires Message-ID: <008d01c7d496$9c4ea090$19147247@fred8kwiskhcfu> There are so many times on maintenace and replacements of parts on our cars we shop only for ="price"=, even though the parts being replaced are the most potential life saving decisions we will encounter for ourselves as well as our famiies, you pay for what you get, one way or another price should not be a factor when it comes to safety & security of your life . Just my opinion. "FT" From brianjone5 at mac.com Wed Aug 1 19:04:35 2007 From: brianjone5 at mac.com (Brian Jones) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 21:04:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] One approach to intsalling loudspeakers in a TR Message-ID: On occasion, I want to be able to listen to some decent music while I'm pootling around in my TR4. I've tried various combinations of speakers in plastic speaker cases, designed for surface-mounting in cars but I placed behind the seats, to small wooden (chipboard) speaker boxes on the 'diff' shelf, and speakers mounted under the dash. Nothing proved satisfactory and all were totally inadequate above even modest speeds. I noticed at the VTR convention that many TR drivers are struggling with similarly unsatisfactory approaches. I wanted something better. I wanted something that met these criteria: to maintain the integrity of the vehicle to conceal the speaker installation to produce acceptable fidelity to permit easy removal from the vehicle I have uploaded a file describing my solution (as a .doc, and as an HTML page), if anyone who would like to roll along to a bit of Coltraine or Ella. It should give you some ideas in finding your own solution. http://idisk.mac.com/brianjone5-Public?view=web Select the .doc or the HTML file and then click the download arrow on the right side of the window. Cheers, Brian in Valley Forge TR4 1963 From dkspence at telus.net Wed Aug 1 22:22:00 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 22:22:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 wheel options: stop me before I do something crazy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1ED8D9AF-269C-403D-83F5-52B673FB8509@telus.net> I WOULD NOT GO THIS ROUTE (oops) as the adaptors and the wheel design place a lot of extra strain on the spindles and wheel bearings as they dramatically change the fulcrum point. On 1-Aug-07, at 5:49 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: [TR] TR3 wheel options: stop me before I do something crazy > > > I am going crazy trying to drive on my old out-of-tune > 48 spoke wires on TS75434. Floppy and noisy! I am > thinking of trying minilites or something of the like > and found an auction on Ebay that offers adapters that > change bolt pattern from TR3 to something more > universal. For instance, BMW Mini wheels fit the > adapter. > > I then looked at tire rack and found these wheels for > $99 ea: > > http://www.latoth.org/images/tr3wheel.jpg > > Change center logo to Triumph and WALAH! Might just > have a cool wheelset. $240 for the adapters + $396 for > the wheels = cheaper than minilites. > > Thoughts? Can I find adapters for cheaper than $240? > > Than From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 1 23:15:50 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 23:15:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tires et al In-Reply-To: <8C9A29026EC2876-A64-9722@MBLK-M24.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20070802051602.1CE46187A3B@autox.team.net> Here is the guy to answer all your Kumho questions, I found him most helpful a few weeks ago when Tire Rack told me the 165/15 were backordered for 16+ weeks. CvanHeusden at KumhoTireUSA.com Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L(O) (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of zoboherald at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 2:18 PM To: McGaheyRx at aol.com; tr3driver at ca.rr.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Tires et al -----Original Message----- From: McGaheyRx at aol.com Really? hmmm... A Korean company (Kumho) is having tires made in China? or is a Chinese company having tires made in Korea? ==AM== I don't know the country of record for Kumho, but I'm pretty sure the Kumhos on my mom's Mercury Mystique, my daughter's Toyota Paseo (for sale) and my Toyota Corolla beater are all made in China. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.0/929 - Release Date: 7/31/2007 5:26 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.0/929 - Release Date: 7/31/2007 5:26 PM From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Wed Aug 1 23:53:46 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 22:53:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2007 Room Rate Error Message-ID: We've heard some people have been misquoted room rates for Triumphest 2007 in Laughlin Oct 11 - 14. If you were quoted a higher rate please call River Palms and they will correct the rate. Please see their email below. If you haven't reserved a room yet, times is getting short! "The DCTRA07 - Triumphest 2007 rates are the rates that you mention. $33.95 Weekday and $63.95 weekend and this is the agreed upon rate. The $39.95 / $73.95 are for others. To obtain the Triumph group rate callers need to indicate the group code/group name. It is of course possible that a reservationists made an error. If you know who called we can check and fix this at once, of course. To verify the Triumph members should pay the $33.95/$63.95." FYI, They have also told us that the rate that was lower than the Triumphest rate on their Internet site was a "mistake" and has been removed. Marty Clark, Triumphest 2007 Committee member From spitlist at cox.net Wed Aug 1 23:56:37 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 22:56:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2007 Room Rate Error In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001e01c7d4c9$e3d46110$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Verrrrrryyyyy Interesting! I booked my room without mentioning Triumphest and got a weekday rate of $23.95 and a weekend rate of $54.95. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Marty Clark Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 10:54 PM To: Triumph Email List; 6pack Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2007 Room Rate Error We've heard some people have been misquoted room rates for Triumphest 2007 in Laughlin Oct 11 - 14. If you were quoted a higher rate please call River Palms and they will correct the rate. Please see their email below. If you haven't reserved a room yet, times is getting short! "The DCTRA07 - Triumphest 2007 rates are the rates that you mention. $33.95 Weekday and $63.95 weekend and this is the agreed upon rate. The $39.95 / $73.95 are for others. To obtain the Triumph group rate callers need to indicate the group code/group name. It is of course possible that a reservationists made an error. If you know who called we can check and fix this at once, of course. To verify the Triumph members should pay the $33.95/$63.95." FYI, They have also told us that the rate that was lower than the Triumphest rate on their Internet site was a "mistake" and has been removed. Marty Clark, Triumphest 2007 Committee member _______________________________________________ spitlist at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jmitch at snet.net Thu Aug 2 04:49:08 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 06:49:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bonnet release outer cable Message-ID: <46B1B6A4.2050301@snet.net> I've come across an NOS part #603469 which is the outer portion of the bonnet release cable. This one is wound metal versus the black plastic ones Ive seen on my car and others. Would this have been original on a late model TR6 or was this meant for a TR4? I did notice if you look closely at the TRF green Vol II, it shows the part as a wound metal part. Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 2 05:58:21 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 07:58:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2007 Room Rate Error Message-ID: In a message dated 8/2/2007 12:56:35 AM Central Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > Verrrrrryyyyy Interesting! > > I booked my room without mentioning Triumphest and got a weekday rate of > $23.95 and a weekend rate of $54.95. > Celebrities always get preferred rates. Dave From triumphworks at gmail.com Thu Aug 2 08:02:48 2007 From: triumphworks at gmail.com (Alain) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 10:02:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hawk HPS part numbers - which one is correct for TR4-TR6 Message-ID: I am finding 2 part #s for Hawk HPS brake pads for TR4-TR6. Anyone know if they are equivalent or if there are any differences between these two models of Hawk pads?? HB169N.560 HP HB169F.560 HPS *Hawk Performance HB169N.560 HP Plus Brake Pads for 1970-1973 Nissan 240Z - Front (Set of 4)* http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/compatibility-chart/B000IJIT0G/102-0315146-2807367?ie=UTF8&i=0 *Hawk Performance HB169F.560 HPS (High Performance Street) Brake Pads for 1975-1978 Nissan 280Z - Front (Set of 4) * http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/compatibility-chart/B000IES58C/ref=au_pf_fb_cc/102-0315146-2807367 Both compatibility charts list TR4-TR6 as compatible. Thanks in advance, Alain ** From Oldpine47 at Comcast.Net Thu Aug 2 09:03:59 2007 From: Oldpine47 at Comcast.Net (Frederick M Light) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 11:03:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <001e01c7d516$5c509450$6400a8c0@FrederickLight> Hi Team, I am about to lift the tub of my 3A off the frame and send it to the body shop. I want to blast the frame with my 60 lb. pot blaster. Can anyone recommend what media I should use and perhaps suggest a place in SE Pa. where it would be available TIA Fred TS57038 From emanteno at comcast.net Thu Aug 2 09:33:43 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 15:33:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] Hawk HPS part numbers - which one is correct for TR4-TR6 Message-ID: <080220071533.16908.46B1F9570001AC9D0000420C2207020653970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Alain > I am finding 2 part #s for Hawk HPS brake pads for TR4-TR6. Anyone know if > they are equivalent or if there are any differences between these two models > of Hawk pads?? > > HB169N.560 HP > HB169F.560 HPS I don't know the Hawk pads, but the early TR6 did use the same pads as the TR4. I thin it is 73 and later TR6 that uses a different pad. Which car are you looking to put these on? Which calipers? Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From mark at nashvilletn.org Thu Aug 2 09:49:06 2007 From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 10:49:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hawk HPS part numbers - which one is correct for TR4-TR6 References: Message-ID: <009701c7d51c$a927b1e0$8500a8c0@CT> >From experience, there are two different pads that look the same except that the holes for the retaining pins are different sizes. I think one is for a 1/4 pin and the other for a 3/16th pin. I seem to always get the wrong one first. Mark Nashville http://www.ArrestMeRed.com I am finding 2 part #s for Hawk HPS brake pads for TR4-TR6. Anyone know if they are equivalent or if there are any differences between these two models of Hawk pads?? HB169N.560 HP HB169F.560 HPS From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Aug 2 10:46:37 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 12:46:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <001e01c7d516$5c509450$6400a8c0@FrederickLight> References: <001e01c7d516$5c509450$6400a8c0@FrederickLight> Message-ID: <200708021246.38209.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday 02 August 2007 11:03 am, Frederick M Light wrote: > Hi Team, > > I am about to lift the tub of my 3A off the frame and send it to the body > shop. I want to blast the frame with my 60 lb. pot blaster. Can anyone > recommend what media I should use and perhaps suggest a place in SE Pa. > where it would be available > > TIA > Fred TS57038 Fred, I used a media called Black Beauty. It is available in many grades. I used the fine grade and it costs about 6 bucks per 25 pound bag. Available at your local construction contractor supply store. The blaster I used was from Sears hooked up to my 130 PSI 60 gal compressor. Did both the frame and body of my TR4. Worked great, but makes alot of dust. Better warn the neighbors not to put the clothes on the line! Bob Bob From nwolf at u.washington.edu Thu Aug 2 12:19:54 2007 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 11:19:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Seeking one Cooper Sportmaster tire Message-ID: Hi Listers Speaking of tires, I'm looking for a single Cooper Sportmaster GLT in the 165R15 size for my TR4. Unfortunately, these are not made any more. Decent used condition is fine, as long as it has some meat left and it's not cracked or damaged. Has anybody got one they'd be willing to sell? Thanks! -Nick Wolf 64-ish TR4 From triumphworks at gmail.com Thu Aug 2 12:50:32 2007 From: triumphworks at gmail.com (Alain) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 14:50:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hawk HPS part numbers - which one is correct for TR4-TR6 In-Reply-To: <080220071533.16908.46B1F9570001AC9D0000420C2207020653970A9D010507@comcast.net> References: <080220071533.16908.46B1F9570001AC9D0000420C2207020653970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: Thanks Irv, I was thinking of swapping pads for both cars. I can't recall if they are the same calipers. ISTR that they are, given the my TR4A is late and my TR6 is early. Ted Schumacher also suggested his pads may do the trick nicely, too. Thanks for your help Ted!! Alain On 8/2/07, emanteno at comcast.net wrote: > > > > > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: Alain > > > I am finding 2 part #s for Hawk HPS brake pads for TR4-TR6. Anyone know > if > > they are equivalent or if there are any differences between these two > models > > of Hawk pads?? > > > > HB169N.560 HP > > HB169F.560 HPS > > > > I don't know the Hawk pads, but the early TR6 did use the same pads as the > TR4. I thin it is 73 and later TR6 that uses a different pad. Which car are > you looking to put these on? Which calipers? > > > > Irv Korey > > 74 TR6 CF22767U > > Highland Park, IL > > -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 From emanteno at comcast.net Thu Aug 2 13:16:58 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 19:16:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] Hawk HPS part numbers - which one is correct for TR4-TR6 Message-ID: <080220071916.27782.46B22DA9000F313100006C862200735446970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Alain Thanks Irv, I was thinking of swapping pads for both cars. I can't recall if they are the same calipers. ISTR that they are, given the my TR4A is late and my TR6 is early. >Those should both be 16P calipers if my notes are correct. Later TR6's use a 16PB, and >that one takes a different pad. Ted Schumacher also suggested his pads may do the trick nicely, too. >Ted's carbon kevlar pads worked great on my TR4 vintage race car. They stopped the car >even when the pads were cold. They are so good that I'm going to put a set on my street >TR6. And they were very easy on the rotors as well. >NFI. >Irv Korey >74 TR6 CF22767U >Highland Park, IL From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Thu Aug 2 14:00:40 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 13:00:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2007 Room Rate Error In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well then I'd try without the Triumphest code first and if the rate is lower don't tell them. Marty On 8/2/07, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > In a message dated 8/2/2007 12:56:35 AM Central Daylight Time, > spitlist at cox.net writes: > > Verrrrrryyyyy Interesting! > > I booked my room without mentioning Triumphest and got a weekday rate of > $23.95 and a weekend rate of $54.95. > > > Celebrities always get preferred rates. > > Dave From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Thu Aug 2 15:07:47 2007 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 14:07:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hawk HPS part numbers Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0BA44F51@kb1.mossmotors.com> > HB169N.560 HP > HB169F.560 HPS The difference is the compound they are made of. Fit early cars TR3 - '72 TR6 HPS are a performance street compound: low dust, high friction, gentle on rotors, virtually noise free HP are a race worthy compound: extremely high friction, good for Autocross Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 2 15:20:49 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 14:20:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hawk HPS part numbers Message-ID: <3695204.1186089649775.JavaMail.root@web23> > The difference is the compound they are made of. Fit early cars TR3 - > '72 TR6 Peter, I think that should be late TR3B through early TR6. The pads used on TR3-early 3B were larger and quite a bit different. Supposedly Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Aug 2 15:24:59 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 17:24:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Seeking one Cooper Sportmaster tire In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200708021724.59761.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday 02 August 2007 02:19 pm, nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote: > Hi Listers > Speaking of tires, I'm looking for a single Cooper Sportmaster GLT in > the 165R15 size for my TR4. Unfortunately, these are not made any more. > Decent used condition is fine, as long as it has some meat left and it's > not cracked or damaged. Has anybody got one they'd be willing to sell? > Thanks! > > -Nick Wolf > 64-ish TR4 Nick, If you are located near central NY you may be able to get a new one! There is a company located in Central NY that may have a few. The company is Moore and their website is: http://www.moorestiresales.com. They do both retail and wholesale. I was able to get 4 2 years ago and the guy there said that when Cooper stopped production they bought out the warehouse of the 165/15 for potential VW sales. Bob From triumphworks at gmail.com Thu Aug 2 16:01:07 2007 From: triumphworks at gmail.com (Alain) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 18:01:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hawk HPS part numbers In-Reply-To: <3695204.1186089649775.JavaMail.root@web23> References: <3695204.1186089649775.JavaMail.root@web23> Message-ID: Either way, that's exactly the kind of info that I was looking for!!!! Thanks very much!! Alain Thanks Peter, Irv, Randall, Ted et al. On 8/2/07, tr3driver at ca.rr.com wrote: > > > The difference is the compound they are made of. Fit early cars TR3 - > > '72 TR6 > > Peter, I think that should be late TR3B through early TR6. The pads used > on TR3-early 3B were larger and quite a bit different. > > Supposedly > Randall -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Thu Aug 2 17:14:10 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 19:14:10 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 wheel options: stop me before I do something crazy Message-ID: In a message dated 8/2/07 12:22:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: << I WOULD NOT GO THIS ROUTE (oops) as the adaptors and the wheel design pl ace a lot of extra strain on the spindles and wheel bearings >> It depends, if the replacement wheels have a deeper backspace, the effective wheel offset will likely be the same as stock. Many front drive cars have a deep backspace. Harold ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Thu Aug 2 18:06:08 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 20:06:08 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Tire Sizes Message-ID: In a message dated 8/1/07 11:42:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bbrewer at tvwireless.net writes: << Hi Harold, My apologies from rubbing you wrong on this one. I am an e asily satisfied customer. >> Bill, evidently your post was made without malice but did contain a broad brush discourtesy. I'm sure at some point all of us have been in charge of a situation where things fell apart and the person we were interacting with was unhappy, shame if they judged all people like us based on one interaction. In the old days ( 20's to 1980 ) cars were simple machines. Change was gradual and not revolutionary, then computer engine / transmission / body contr ols changed the landscape forever. Gone are the days when someone with a bit of skill could make a diagnosis and affect a good repair. Also gone are the young people who grew up keeping some old clunker running with sand paper and a feeler gauge. These young people were the ones that started out doing oil changes and tires knowing they would progress to mechanic level making more skilled repairs. Now tire shops / oil change centers are staffed by people that don't have the basic knowledge or care to move beyond that level. People that do have the head for this kind of stuff ( a little bit of engineering, design , electrical / electronic experience ) are put off by the low wages / poor image and seek employment elsewhere. Randal seems to have had some bad experiences. I suggest to him opening a shop that caters to those who have had bad experiences, should be a easy money maker no? Harold ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Thu Aug 2 18:17:02 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 17:17:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Is the 13" steering wheel too small? Message-ID: <000f01c7d563$9d7be6d0$c52a144c@computer> Is the 13" steering wheel too small or does it look and drive fine? Does anyone have any experience with the wooden 13 inch steering wheel on a TR6? Jim [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From fishplate at charter.net Thu Aug 2 18:24:55 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 20:24:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Emissions Adapter Message-ID: <20070803002448.XHSD26124.aa02.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> I've got a 75 TR6 which is all stock and in excellent condition, except it suffered from not being driven... I'm slowly replacing all the rubber bits on the car, and ran into a problem. I'm missing the emissions adapyrt. By emissions adapter, I mean the little plastic fitting that connects the valve cover - charcoal cannister tube to the stub on the carb. Moss shows it as NLA, does anyone know of an easily available substitute? Thanks, Jeff Scarbrough Athens Ga. Spitfires and a TR6 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/931 - Release Date: 8/1/2007 4:53 PM From wbeech at flash.net Thu Aug 2 18:25:03 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 18:25:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR Fan Pitch Message-ID: <20070803002514.1F61A187D2D@autox.team.net> Has anyone tried to bend the fins on their fan to increase the pitch and therefore move more air across the radiator? Just eyeballing it I would say the TR3 fan is pitched at about 10-15 degrees, but looking at pictures of those yellow fans at TRF they look to be about 30 degrees and they have six(6) blades. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L(O) (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/933 - Release Date: 8/2/2007 2:22 PM From tr6parts at earthlink.net Thu Aug 2 18:28:34 2007 From: tr6parts at earthlink.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 20:28:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Emissions Adapter References: <20070803002448.XHSD26124.aa02.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <009601c7d565$48c08c20$71d5ff04@alan> TRF has them. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Scarbrough" To: Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 8:24 PM Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Emissions Adapter > I've got a 75 TR6 which is all stock and in excellent condition, > except it suffered from not being driven... I'm slowly replacing all > the rubber bits on the car, and ran into a problem. I'm missing the > emissions adapyrt. By emissions adapter, I mean the little plastic > fitting that connects the valve cover - charcoal cannister tube to > the stub on the carb. > > Moss shows it as NLA, does anyone know of an easily available substitute? > > Thanks, > Jeff Scarbrough Athens Ga. > Spitfires and a TR6 From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Aug 2 19:37:29 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 21:37:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Is the 13" steering wheel too small? In-Reply-To: <000f01c7d563$9d7be6d0$c52a144c@computer> References: <000f01c7d563$9d7be6d0$c52a144c@computer> Message-ID: <8C9A385FCE8F3C0-BDC-7897@FWM-D17.sysops.aol.com> Hi Jim, I have a 13" aftermarket moto lita wooden wheel on my car.? I sent a post to the list when trying to decide to buy a 13" or 14" wheel asking owners of the 13" wheel what they thought.? Based upon not one negative response from those 13" wheel owners I bought mine.? I like it, and I wouldnt go back to the stock wheel.? It took a little getting used to initially, especially in slow speed tight turning situations.? But I have gotten used to slightly more effort and it isnt even something I notice anymore.? But the looks, extra leg room and feel of the wheel while driving more than make up for a little extra effort in the parking lot.? I do not have a steering wheel section on the triumphowners.com/108 site and I will correct that oversight in the near future.? But if you go to the bottom of the site below all of the picture folders to the special project section and open up the windblocker notes you can scroll to the right and there is a pretty good picture of the entire dash including the steering wheel.? I have the original picture also which is quite a bit larger if you feel that picture doesnt show enough details.? My two cents. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: jim hearn To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 8:17 pm Subject: [TR] Is the 13" steering wheel too small? Is the 13" steering wheel too small or does it look and drive fine? Does anyone have any experience with the wooden 13 inch steering wheel on a TR6? Jim ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From patton at suscom-maine.net Thu Aug 2 19:43:40 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 21:43:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Is the 13" steering wheel too small? In-Reply-To: <000f01c7d563$9d7be6d0$c52a144c@computer> Message-ID: Hi Jim, I have a 13" Mota Lita wheel on my TR6 and it is pretty darn small and thin. For all around use it is OK but I have wide tires so parking requires a lot of effort. On the way home from the British Invasion in Vermont last year we hit a huge pot hole at about 50MPH and it ripped the wheel out of my hand (I wasn't ready and yes should have had BOTH hands on the wheel). Anyway it jammed my thumb pretty good but no damage was done. It looks great. Rick http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/ > snip > > Is the 13" steering wheel too small or does it look and drive fine? Does > anyone have any experience with the wooden 13 inch steering wheel > on a TR6? > Jim From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Aug 2 19:58:13 2007 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 21:58:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Is the 13" steering wheel too small? Message-ID: Jim, I have one on my car and like it. I would go with something with a little bit of padding on it in stead of wood though.Marty _________________________________________________________________ Messenger Cafi  open for fun 24/7. Hot games, cool activities served daily. Visit now. http://cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_AugWLtagline From tdskip at yahoo.com Thu Aug 2 20:30:49 2007 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 19:30:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] More on the one carb TR8 Message-ID: <123207.6776.qm@web55602.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Well I tried the carbon canister idea (thanks Paul) but it did not work. I pulled the inter-carb fuel line that connects both carbs and the gas was cloudy. Replacing the fuel filter did not make a difference. Replacing the interconnect line did not make a difference. I'm still only getting one of the two carbs running, the one closest to the fuel filter. It also seems like the fuel flow from the tank has weakened since I last tested it. Is there another filter near the tank? Thanks folks! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Aug 2 22:02:05 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 22:02:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] Who is Going to Triumphest in Laughlin NV Message-ID: <46B2A8BD.6030103@tscusa.org> So many shows, so little time!! Okay, we are also doing Triumphest in Laughlin NV from Colorado. Triumphest 2007 is October 11-14 at the River Palms Resort Hotel in Laughlin, Nevada. Web site is http://www.triumphest.com/ This years theme is "The only Bond Film where James Bond Drove a Triumph". So get your best Bond suit, your Bond Girl, and your Triumph and get to Triumphest!! Since James Bond drove a Saffron Stag in "Diamonds are Forever" - (with a Herald exhaust overdubbed to it because the Stag V8 exhaust sounded BETTER than an Aston Martin DB), well we will be pushing for a LARGE attendance of Stags at this event!! I will bet that if you own a Saffron Stag, it will be displayed in the hotel Lobby!! The Triumph Stag Club USA will be having a Triumph Stag exhaust note contest to see which attending Stag sounds the best!! I recommend that the Judges be a team of Bond Girls :> Rooms are like $34 per night except Friday/Saturday are like $64 IF you book using the club discount. Some folks are booking separately and getting a different lower rate, but I am not sure if the club gets a special rate on the conference rooms if they have their numbers book using the event rate. Toronto Triumphs thinks they will get over 25 Stags all the way up in Canada for British Car Day at Bronte Park. The challenge is to beat the Canadians attendance for Triumphs and Stags at Triumphest!! We only had something like 24 Stags and 314 Triumphs at VTR 2007. So you Californian Stag and Triumph Owners, all you TEXANS that did not come to VTR 2007 after we ALL sweated our butts off driving to Irving in freakin JULY, and every state within 1000 miles of Laughlin, hop in the Triumphs and get to Triumphest!!! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From steven at newellboys.com Thu Aug 2 22:15:27 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 22:15:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR Fan Pitch In-Reply-To: <20070803002514.1F61A187D2D@autox.team.net> References: <20070803002514.1F61A187D2D@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <46B2ABDF.5010202@newellboys.com> wbeech wrote: > Has anyone tried to bend the fins on their fan to increase the pitch and > therefore move more air across the radiator? Just eyeballing it I would say > the TR3 fan is pitched at about 10-15 degrees, but looking at pictures of > those yellow fans at TRF they look to be about 30 degrees and they have > six(6) blades. I don't know exactly what the TR3 fan looks like, but I have an early TR4 CT5018LO with the four flat aluminum blades. Not much pitch at all. A couple years ago my fan threw a blade -- probably just 40 years and 100K of metal fatigue -- which luckily went down instead of up. That gave me the reason to install the yellow fan I had hanging on the wall. They have 8 blades, and plenty of air-moving pitch. I made one or two changes at the same time, but I think the fan is the main reason my car now runs so cool. I wouldn't recommend bending a 50 year old fan from your TR3, since it'll increase the chance the metal might fail. If you really need better air movement, look at a yellow fan or an electric pusher fan. Best luck. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 From Lbc.Resto at comcast.net Fri Aug 3 07:32:47 2007 From: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net (Ian) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 09:32:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Is the 13" steering wheel too small? In-Reply-To: <000f01c7d563$9d7be6d0$c52a144c@computer> References: <000f01c7d563$9d7be6d0$c52a144c@computer> Message-ID: <007101c7d5d2$c82ed7b0$0502a8c0@RAS> I just put a 14" wooden wheel on my TR4, which has 185 tires and Miata seats (modified with a slightly lower front seat mount for clearance). I really like it, although visually I am glad that I didn't go smaller - just my opinion. I think that the 14 is a good balance between low speed practicality and high speed responsiveness (like night vs. day compared to the original). I have also noticed that the feedback is greatly increased, but that the wheel is more susceptible to being pulled out of your hands due to poor road surfaces. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jim hearn Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 8:17 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Is the 13" steering wheel too small? Is the 13" steering wheel too small or does it look and drive fine? Does anyone have any experience with the wooden 13 inch steering wheel on a TR6? Jim [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Aug 3 08:52:27 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 10:52:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Head thickness Message-ID: <000d01c7d5dd$e97d7330$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Listers, What's the original thickness of a TR4 head? Thanks, Ed Woods From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Aug 3 09:06:28 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 08:06:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Fan Pitch In-Reply-To: <20070803002514.1F61A187D2D@autox.team.net> References: <20070803002514.1F61A187D2D@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <227F145F1A1D428EA23F15F8F5A10845@GeoPC> Some fans with lots of pitch flex and flatten out at high speed... don't know if this is the case with the TR plastic fans but, as noted, tweaking the old metal fan seems dicey. I somehow ended up with a TR4 fan (square tip) on my TR3A (would have had the rounded tip) which may perhaps provide some small improvement. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "wbeech" To: ; Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 5:25 PM Subject: [TR] TR Fan Pitch > Has anyone tried to bend the fins on their fan to increase the pitch and > therefore move more air across the radiator? Just eyeballing it I would > say > the TR3 fan is pitched at about 10-15 degrees, but looking at pictures of > those yellow fans at TRF they look to be about 30 degrees and they have > six(6) blades. From twakeman at razzolink.com Fri Aug 3 09:22:27 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2007 08:22:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head thickness In-Reply-To: <000d01c7d5dd$e97d7330$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <000d01c7d5dd$e97d7330$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <46B34833.3080900@razzolink.com> > What's the original thickness of a TR4 head? An unshaved high port Triumph head is 3.330" tall. For more see www.tjwakeman.net/TR/FAQ_heads.htm TeriAnn From KingR44916 at aol.com Fri Aug 3 10:12:01 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 12:12:01 EDT Subject: [TR] tr6 carbs Message-ID: i have a 76 tr6 still working on the carbs on decelleration there is a like grumbling sound not smooth what might affect this no popping ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From wbeech at flash.net Fri Aug 3 10:20:16 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 10:20:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] tr6 carbs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070803162026.7DCC1187A2F@autox.team.net> Oooooo... I LOVE that sound. It's 50% the reason I bought the car. I get a little popping as I think I have one exhaust valve that is not quite as tight as the rest. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KingR44916 at aol.com Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 10:12 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr6 carbs i have a 76 tr6 still working on the carbs on decelleration there is a like grumbling sound not smooth what might affect this no popping ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/933 - Release Date: 8/2/2007 2:22 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/933 - Release Date: 8/2/2007 2:22 PM From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Fri Aug 3 10:26:43 2007 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (aldwyn at sylvancircle.org) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 10:26:43 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 carbs In-Reply-To: <20070803162026.7DCC1187A2F@autox.team.net> References: <20070803162026.7DCC1187A2F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <10284.199.67.138.154.1186158403.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org> > Oooooo... I LOVE that sound. It's 50% the reason I bought the car. I get > a > little popping as I think I have one exhaust valve that is not quite as > tight as the rest. Me too! I call that "British Purr". :) From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Fri Aug 3 10:33:18 2007 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 12:33:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr6 carbs In-Reply-To: <10284.199.67.138.154.1186158403.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org> Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488FE7F5AF@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> My 250 pops like nobody's business. I just love that sound! Bill S. 2005 Lotus Elise 1968 Triumph TR-250 1968 MGC Tourer 1965 Sunbeam Tiger 1965 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III www.TR-250.com Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows... -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wsteinman=pogolaw.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wsteinman=pogolaw.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 12:27 PM To: wbeech Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 carbs > Oooooo... I LOVE that sound. It's 50% the reason I bought the car. I > get a little popping as I think I have one exhaust valve that is not > quite as tight as the rest. Me too! I call that "British Purr". :) _______________________________________________ wsteinman at pogolaw.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Aug 3 11:26:33 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 13:26:33 EDT Subject: [TR] Bonnet release outer cable Message-ID: In a message dated 8/2/2007 6:50:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, jmitch at snet.net writes: > I've come across an NOS part #603469 which is the outer portion of > the bonnet release cable. This one is wound metal versus the black > plastic ones Ive seen on my car and others. Would this have been > original on a late model TR6 or was this meant for a TR4? I did notice > if you look closely at the TRF green Vol II, it shows the part as a > wound metal part. Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 > John, I am going to say that the wound metal cable is the correct original version. The black plastic ones are reproduction replacement cables. I am very confident that this is true for TR250's and early TR6's up to 71 or 72. A little less sure about later TR6's. There may have been an introduction of black ones at some point. Not well known tiny little detail. My 71 TR6 is correct with wound metal and it is a bummer when a Judge deducts for it because it is not plastic wrapped! Cheers, Darrell Floyd VTR Chief Judge ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Fri Aug 3 15:04:22 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 14:04:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carpet Replacement TR6 - Any Tips? Message-ID: My back ordered Shadow Blue carpet replacement kit arrived this week for my 74 TR6. Anyone have any instructions/tips on doing the installation? I'm doing several things that I've been waiting on the carpet to do, replacing the transmission tunnel, emergency hood release and a heat barrier product called Damplifier Pro for the under the carpet. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Aug 3 15:13:58 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 22:13:58 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR Fan Pitch References: <20070803002514.1F61A187D2D@autox.team.net> <227F145F1A1D428EA23F15F8F5A10845@GeoPC> Message-ID: <004401c7d613$357dfb80$0201a8c0@Bevan> I recall seeing in one of my old sales training manuals that fan blade pitch on all Triumphs (presumably other Brit makes too?) was at optimum *scoop* at around 1000-1200 rpm. At higher engine speeds the fan became a power drain and was effectively useless. IMHO fitting an electric fan will (a) reduce the fan noise that is considerable until you hear its absence (b) allow a faster warm-up and (c) provide improved fuel economy. The latter is important for us who can only enjoy our cars while paying gas prices @ approx US$7.40 per US gallon. My Triumph is currently costing me about 32 cents a mile, so trips in it are becoming fewer and fewer. A pity Standard-Triumph never made a 6 cyl turbo-diesel . Give me a diesel any day for economy, reliability, slogability and long life. Jonmac From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Aug 3 15:20:33 2007 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (BobDanielson) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 17:20:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Carpet Replacement TR6 - Any Tips? References: Message-ID: <001201c7d614$22f65f10$0301a8c0@LAPTOP> Marty, Vicky Brit used to publish a guide on redoing your carpet and interior panels and I've got it scanned in at my site. There's a link on my main page called "VB Guide to Re-doing your interior" which might help you out. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marty Clark" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph Email List" Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 5:04 PM Subject: [TR] Carpet Replacement TR6 - Any Tips? > My back ordered Shadow Blue carpet replacement kit arrived this week for > my > 74 TR6. Anyone have any instructions/tips on doing the installation? > > I'm doing several things that I've been waiting on the carpet to do, > replacing the transmission tunnel, emergency hood release and a heat > barrier > product called Damplifier Pro for the under the carpet. > > Marty Clark > Gilbert, AZ > 1974 TR6 CF17352U > http://www.triumphowners.com/798 > _______________________________________________ > 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From DLylis at aol.com Fri Aug 3 16:38:50 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 18:38:50 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A pistons Message-ID: My workshop manual says to orient the pistons according to a 1/32" split in the skirt. My new pistons have no such split, nor did the old ones, and there is no indication on the crown of the piston as to how these should be oriented relative to the bearing caps, etc. The old ones were marked STD with 86MM bores, so I assume they were TR4, and the new ones are 87MM. Can someone shed some light on this? TIA David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 3 16:45:14 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 15:45:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A pistons Message-ID: <18763088.1186181114257.JavaMail.root@web39> > My workshop manual says to orient the pistons according to a 1/32" split in > the skirt. My new pistons have no such split, nor did the old ones, and > there is no indication on the crown of the piston as to how these should be > oriented relative to the bearing caps, etc. In that case they can go either way. Randall From CarlSereda at aol.com Fri Aug 3 17:56:43 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 19:56:43 EDT Subject: [TR] can you tell a rotor? Message-ID: Hi Listers, Bought two TR distributor ROTORS from 2 suppliers recently. These two rotors look identical except one came in a green Lucas box and one came in a blue OEM box 'Original Engine Management' was in the fine print.. not 'Original Equipment Manufacturer'! They look fine and I'd say identical, except one has the rivet about 20 thou deeper into the plastic. This wouldn't bother me unless I had heard mention of some mysterious rotor failures blamed on too deep of rivetings shorting out to the distributor cam. Any more info on this? Was the real rotor problem, or manufacturer ever identified? Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Terryrs at comcast.net Fri Aug 3 18:45:50 2007 From: Terryrs at comcast.net (Terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2007 00:45:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] Flexible Electric Wire? Message-ID: <080420070045.22005.46B3CC3E00055D20000055F522120207849C9D979D9D0AAB@comcast.net> Hello, everyone. Per the Dan Masters instructions for converting a TR3 to an alternator, I did the wire upgrade and installed an 8 gauge wire from the back of the alternator to the solenoid. I used a regular crimp wire connector for the attachment, but it seems vibration of the engine and the alternator have broken two of these. Once was yesterday when I was dressed in a suit, far from home, and in 90+ degree heat with maximum humidity, driving to a work appointment. (Hmmm...failure to make an appointment because of a breakdown...does that qualify as a "dis"- appointment?) Fast fix was to simply snip the remains of the old connector, strip the wire and wrap it around the terminal without a connector, cinching it down under the nut. Probably more flexible too. Just hate doing that kind of thing. Is there a circle connector that might go over a post terminal, that won't break under vibration? Has anyone else had this problem with the thick 8 gauge wire? Terry Smith, '59 TR3 New Hampshire From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Aug 3 18:57:45 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2007 20:57:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] can you tell a rotor? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46B396C9.19958.CB7DA95@localhost> Yes, but it won't listen. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/933 - Release Date: 8/2/2007 2:22 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 3 19:33:00 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 18:33:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Flexible Electric Wire? Message-ID: <14949146.1186191180851.JavaMail.root@web25> > I used a regular crimp wire connector for the attachment, but it seems vibration > of the engine and the alternator have broken two of these. Sounds to me like you may have the wire too short, so it's pulling on the connector when the engine mounts flex or something. Try adding a little slack, and tie-wrapping the wire to something (starter cable, maybe) to act as a strain relief. I don't like to rely on crimps to make electrical connections anyway; even made with professional crimp tools, they rarely form good, gas-tight connections. Generally, what I do is : 1) Strip off the insulation from the terminal (if I can't buy uninsulated terminals to begin with); 2) Crimp the terminal on the wire as usual (using big, heavy crimpers, not those sheet-metal things in the kit), then 3) Solder the wire to the terminal where it protrudes through the crimp. 4) Use heat shrink tubing over the wire and the crimp/solder area, to insulate and strengthen the area (as well as help protect it from the elements). This method takes a little extra time, but works very well for me. I've not had any trouble with the 8 AWG on my TR3A. Randall From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 3 19:51:20 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 18:51:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Grease fittings Message-ID: <026101c7d639$f575b380$210110ac@MIKESDELL> What thread are the grease fittings on a TR3 front lower suspension "A" arm? Is it a BSP? Tapered or straight? Or something else? Thanks, Mike Denman From fishplate at charter.net Fri Aug 3 19:53:12 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2007 21:53:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil Filter Can Message-ID: <20070804015259.WBFH7864.aa03.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> OK, I give up...I have a vision of the assembly process for a LHD TR6 starting with some git hanging the oil filter can on a jig and the complete car being assembled around it... Is it possible to remove the can for cleaning, without disassembling the car? 12.60.02 makes it sound easy, but I reckon they've got a RHD car. TIA, Jeff Scarbrough -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/933 - Release Date: 8/2/2007 2:22 PM From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Aug 3 20:48:07 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 22:48:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Carpet Replacement TR6 - Any Tips? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002b01c7d641$e320e2b0$284d3b47@Scott> Marty: Do not use glue. For those areas that the snaps are not used, I bought some Velcro strips at the local craft shop that has the tape backing. Cut to desired length and remove tape paper and stick to one side with the two halves connected. That push other side to the surface that carpet will lay on and make sure you have the proper fit before pushing down on the Velcro. This works great and you can always remove the carpet if need be (like getting caught in a thunder storm with the top down! Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Marty Clark Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 5:04 PM To: 6pack; Triumph Email List Subject: [TR] Carpet Replacement TR6 - Any Tips? My back ordered Shadow Blue carpet replacement kit arrived this week for my 74 TR6. Anyone have any instructions/tips on doing the installation? I'm doing several things that I've been waiting on the carpet to do, replacing the transmission tunnel, emergency hood release and a heat barrier product called Damplifier Pro for the under the carpet. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 3 20:49:07 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 19:49:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Grease fittings Message-ID: <21092379.1186195747605.JavaMail.root@web25> ---- Mike Denman wrote: > What thread are the grease fittings on a TR3 front lower suspension "A" arm? Mine are 1/8" NPT. Randall From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Fri Aug 3 20:58:43 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 19:58:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carpet Replacement TR6 - Any Tips? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sloane, I did order the 3M Spray Adhesive. I will try and stay away from the "fix anything" duct tape. Marty On 8/3/07, im sloane wrote: > > Marty, > All I can add is that the 3M Spray Adhesive is better than Duct Tape. > You'll > need it for many many places. I couldn't have gotten the interior back in > without it. > > Sloane :) > TR-69 From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Fri Aug 3 21:00:34 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 20:00:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carpet Replacement TR6 - Any Tips? In-Reply-To: <002b01c7d641$e320e2b0$284d3b47@Scott> References: <002b01c7d641$e320e2b0$284d3b47@Scott> Message-ID: I like this idea more than the duct tape. Anyone else use Velcro? Marty On 8/3/07, Scott Suhring wrote: > > Marty: > > Do not use glue. For those areas that the snaps are not used, I bought > some > Velcro strips at the local craft shop that has the tape backing. Cut to > desired length and remove tape paper and stick to one side with the two > halves connected. That push other side to the surface that carpet will > lay > on and make sure you have the proper fit before pushing down on the > Velcro. > This works great and you can always remove the carpet if need be (like > getting caught in a thunder storm with the top down! > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3 From emanteno at comcast.net Fri Aug 3 21:13:08 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2007 03:13:08 +0000 Subject: [TR] can you tell a rotor? Message-ID: <080420070313.23451.46B3EEC40000526100005B9B2207020653970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: CarlSereda at aol.com > Was the real rotor problem, or manufacturer ever identified? The problem rotors were genuine Lucas. The cure was the OEM rotors, white box with blue printing, made in Italy. I got mine from World Wide Imports of Madison (WI). NFI Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Fri Aug 3 22:54:49 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 21:54:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Does anyone have any TR6 wheels for sale? Message-ID: <000001c7d653$96d48c10$c52a144c@computer> I'm in Northern California and looking for 4 wheels for a stock suspensioned TR6. I will consider anything in any usable size (15, 16 or even 17 if they work). Obviously if it needs to shipped, then it needs to be worth shipping. I'll also consider any tires if they happen to be on the wheels and again, if they are worth shipping. If you have something for sale, please send me the details. Thanks, Jim [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From CarlSereda at aol.com Sat Aug 4 00:02:45 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 02:02:45 EDT Subject: [TR] can you tell a rotor? Message-ID: Thanks Irv, I got the Lucas rotor from Moss, the OEM from World Wide Imports like you did.. interesting that the OEM rotor has a deeper rivet. Thanks again, Carl << The problem rotors were genuine Lucas. The cure was the OEM rotors, white bo x with blue printing, made in Italy. I got mine from World Wide Imports of Madi son (WI). NFI Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL >> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Aug 4 01:45:04 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 00:45:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Caarpet Removed Message-ID: Took 2 hours but I got everything out except the 2 long pieces on the door sill. The Vicy Brit instructions are not real retail here. It looks like if I remove them I'll take the fuzzy door seal with it and I can't tell if it will go back on. I have a pair on back order with TRF. Anyone done this and kept their old fuzzy door seals? I am pleasantly surprised that everything under the carpet and felt looks pretty good. I snapped one rear seat bolt off but it is raised enough that I think I can grab it with some pliers and twist it out (after some Kroil to loosen it). If I don't intend to use the snaps with the new carpet should I remove the old snaps in the floor? The old felt really stuck to the rear deck any suggestions on removing the remains? Here's what it looks like after the removal: http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_Carpet_Install/74_TR6_Carpet_Install_15.jpg http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_Carpet_Install/74_TR6_Carpet_Install_16.jpg Thanks, Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat Aug 4 04:55:04 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 06:55:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] One approach to discretely installing loudspeakers in a TR Message-ID: A few folks let me know that they had trouble downloading the rather large Word doc that I posted on this installation. Apologies to them. I have now uploaded the file as a .pdf at the same link. It is 1/10th of the size now, at just under 3MB. http://idisk.mac.com/brianjone5-Public?view=web It was good to hear that a few listers are going to give it a go for their TRs. Let me know if I can help with any advice. The carpentry is simple, but the 'upholstery' was new territory for me. Cheers, Brian in Valley Forge 1963 TR4 -------------------------------------------- On occasion, I want to be able to listen to some decent music while I'm pootling around in my TR4. I've tried various combinations of speakers in plastic speaker cases, designed for surface-mounting in cars that I placed behind the seats; small wooden (chipboard) speaker boxes on the 'diff' shelf; and speakers mounted under the dash. Nothing has proven satisfactory and all were totally inadequate above even modest speeds. I noticed at the VTR convention that many TR drivers are struggling with similarly unsatisfactory approaches. I wanted something better. I wanted something that met these criteria:  to maintain the integrity of the vehicle  to conceal the speaker installation  to produce acceptable fidelity  to permit easy removal from the vehicle From KingR44916 at aol.com Sat Aug 4 06:36:19 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 08:36:19 EDT Subject: [TR] springs Message-ID: have some squart in the rear is there a difference with stock hight or lowering 1" ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From drsandner at earthlink.net Sat Aug 4 12:09:39 2007 From: drsandner at earthlink.net (J.RANDOLPH SANDNER) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 11:09:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] brakes Message-ID: <5A78278825714157B6A5C118F27358E5@randyPC> listers, am about to replace rear brake cylinders. there is a small packet of green grease. no reference to this in any of my manuals. what is it used for? it came in the packet /c the new clips. TIA randy sandner 74.5 tr6 hickory, nc From mark at bradakis.com Sat Aug 4 09:16:45 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2007 09:16:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] brakes In-Reply-To: <5A78278825714157B6A5C118F27358E5@randyPC> References: <5A78278825714157B6A5C118F27358E5@randyPC> Message-ID: <46B4985D.7000603@bradakis.com> The grease is to lubricate the clips so they slide easily against the backing plate, so the cylinder can move where it needs to be when you apply the brakes. mjb. From OKCSpitfire at SBCGLOBAL.NET Sat Aug 4 10:39:02 2007 From: OKCSpitfire at SBCGLOBAL.NET (OKCSpitfire) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 10:39:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 78 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000301c7d6b5$f79ec2b0$6401a8c0@greeper> Anyone interested in a nice roll bar for a Spitfire? I have not listed it on Ebay, I will not ship so anyone interested in it must be local (Oklahoma City). I'll take a 100.00 for it. It interested contact me off list. Thanks Jerry Stasyszen jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net http://okcspitfire.atspace.com/index.html 1976 Spitfire 1977 Spitfire No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/933 - Release Date: 8/2/2007 2:22 PM From OKCSpitfire at SBCGLOBAL.NET Sat Aug 4 10:52:52 2007 From: OKCSpitfire at SBCGLOBAL.NET (OKCSpitfire) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 10:52:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 78 Message-ID: <000401c7d6b7$e6650d90$6401a8c0@greeper> Forgot, I also have a metering needle for a CD150 carb #B1DL from VB purchased for 22.95 plus shiupping 13.25. Never been used I put a Weber on the car. I'll let it go for 15.00 Anyone interested in a nice roll bar for a Spitfire? I have not listed it on Ebay, I will not ship so anyone interested in it must be local (Oklahoma City). I'll take a 100.00 for it. It interested contact me off list. Thanks Jerry Stasyszen jerry.stasyszen at sbcglobal.net OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net http://okcspitfire.atspace.com/index.html 1976 Spitfire 1977 Spitfire No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/933 - Release Date: 8/2/2007 2:22 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/933 - Release Date: 8/2/2007 2:22 PM From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Aug 4 10:28:24 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 09:28:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Caarpet Removed In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F4B73C1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F4B73C1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan, Thanks for the explaination! I rechecked and it looks like they do just lift off with a little help. They are in bad shape so I'm glad I have some on order but they have been on backorder for over 6 months. I'll leave the snaps. I have the 3M adhesive so I'm set there. Instead of felt I'm doing a heat shield made by Second Skin so I'll cover everything then then attach the carpet to that. Marty On 8/4/07, Foster, Stan wrote: > > Marty, it looks like you are doing ok with this project. The carpet > covering the sills is often/normally glued on and the fuzzy door seal is > pushed on over the door edge and over the carpet leading edge. The carpet > has a vinyl/fabric leading edge that folds over the door frame and the fuzzy > seal is just pushed over it and the door frame to secure both the seal and > the carpet. If you lift the fuzzy seal in the middle of the door frame it > should lift off without much of a fight and you can see how it is put > together. > > The fuzzy seals, at least the originals and many of the replacements fall > apart after a few years but with care they can be eased off. If they are not > obviously worn out often the fabric/rubber part of the seal can be glued > back on to the metal spring part with 3M super weather strip adhesive. I > think TRF has some new ones that look the same but don't have these > mechanical issues. > > > There is a chance that someone in the past glued to door seal to the door > frame and/or to the sill carpet. If that is the case you may have a slightly > bigger mess on your hands but it is not terminal. While the sill carpet is > removed you have an opportunity to check for rust and to rustproof inside > the sills via the holes revealed when the sill carpet is detached. > > Regarding snaps.. not sure why you would not be using them but I would > evaluate based on where they are, the condition they are in and the > condition of the metal underneath and around them. If they look like they > are in the right place, functional and have not rusted I don't see any > reason to disturb them. If they are loose or worn out, replace or remove > them but don't leave holes in the floor. > > Don't know what to suggest about the felt remains on the rear shelf, I > guess I would remove as much of the loose fuzz as I could then not worry > about it as I would be putting more felt on top although I would probably > not glue the felt on this time and just rely on gravity, inertia and the > carpet to hold it in place. > > Overall I used very little glue, I like to be able to take the carpet out > when I need to and deal with rust so I don't like gluing anything to metal > that is prone to rusting (floor, sills, bulkhead). I'm ok with gluing carpet > to kick panels and vinyl to rear wheel arches etc, non rusting or areas that > are not prone to rust. > > Stan From Btmfdchn at aol.com Sat Aug 4 17:09:15 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 19:09:15 EDT Subject: [TR] can you tell a rotor? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/3/2007 8:13:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time, emanteno at comcast.net writes: The problem rotors were genuine Lucas. The cure was the OEM rotors, white box with blue printing, made in Italy. I got mine from World Wide Imports of Madison (WI). Greetings... Agreed. I got mine from AutoZone. TJ ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Aug 4 18:22:31 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 20:22:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] can you tell a rotor? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200708042022.31552.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 04 August 2007 07:09 pm, Btmfdchn at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 8/3/2007 8:13:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time, > emanteno at comcast.net writes: > > > The problem rotors were genuine Lucas. The cure was the OEM rotors, white > box with blue printing, made in Italy. I got mine from World Wide Imports > of Madison (WI). > > > > Greetings... Agreed. I got mine from AutoZone. TJ > > > Greetings, Maybe someone can set me straight!! Over the years I have acquired a number of OEM rotors as they seem to appear out of nowhere when one gets a parts car or project. They all look the same to me and when it comes time to get a new engine started, I just pick one, clean it up and away we go. I currently own 2 TRs, and have had two others and have never had a problem with the rotors. Problems with internal distributor wires, points, and caps but never a problem with a rotor or even a coil. Have I been lucky? With my current project, a 63 TR4, I just picked a rotor out of the bunch and the engine runs just wonderful. What causes a rotor to go bad? Is it related to wear between the rotor contact and the cap contacts? BTW, just got back from a little ride down to a local farm for sweet corn and a few other veggies. It was such a nice day! And it is another great year for sweet corn in central NY. Anyway, that 4 really purrs down the road with just no effort at all. But I still need to make some adjustments to the clutch. I have blead it a number of times but it still seems go need a pump or 2. This is a first for me using dot 5. The breaks are just fine, but I cant seem to get all the air out of the clutch system. I have no leaks, drips or errors. Once I pump the pedal, the clutch works just fine, so the mechanical side of the clutch is OK. Maybe the problem could be the slave? Oh well, the real fun is working on these wonderful machines! Bob From emanteno at comcast.net Sat Aug 4 20:55:22 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 02:55:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] can you tell a rotor? Message-ID: <080520070255.19070.46B53C1A0001AEE500004A7E2213484373970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Bob Labuz > Maybe someone can set me straight!! > > Over the years I have acquired a number of OEM rotors as they seem to appear > out of nowhere when one gets a parts car or project. > > They all look the same to me and when it comes time to get a new engine > started, I just pick one, clean it up and away we go. You probably have old stock Lucas. They were fine. The stuff that has been sold over the last 3-5 years is the problem stuff. My last Lucas rotor started going bad after less than 1000 miles. I've heard some of them crack and arc, leading to misfires or no starting/running. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 4 21:15:07 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 20:15:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] can you tell a rotor? Message-ID: <21669600.1186283707155.JavaMail.root@web30> ---- emanteno at comcast.net wrote: > I've heard some of them crack and arc, leading to misfires or no starting/running. I wonder though, how many times those incidents include other upgrades to the ignition system, like Lucas Sports coils. The rotor has to withstand any increase in voltage, and the path from the contact arm to the distributor post isn't very long at all. Caravanning home from VTR 2000, a local club member had a new rotor (installed @ VTR) fail on his TR4A. Failure itself was invisible, a carbon track through the interior of the rotor, grounding the spark to the dizzy shaft. He had a Lucas Sports coil, and, as it turned out, a bad spark plug connector that evidently allowed the coil to develop more voltage. Randall From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Aug 4 21:14:55 2007 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (BobDanielson) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 23:14:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Caarpet Removed References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F4B73C1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <46B52018.8010103@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <001401c7d70e$d022bd00$0301a8c0@LAPTOP> I didn't use that product (used Fat Mat) but putting it inside the doors sure made a huge difference in the doors. Also make sure you put in on the rear deck , on the gas tank and inside the trunk. You really can quiet a TR down! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Friedlander" To: "Marty Clark" Cc: "Foster, Stan" ; "Triumph Email List" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 8:55 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Caarpet Removed > Marty; > > That Second Skin product you bought (Damplifier Pro) is also one heck of > an > acoustic vibration damper. > > See http://www.secondskinaudio.com/viewproduct.php?id_product=310 > > Quite a product! That's why I had recommended your considering using > it inside the door skins, tranny tunnel and wheel arches, too... > > NFI..... > > Dave Friedlander > CF25194UO > > > Marty Clark wrote: > >>Stan, >>Thanks for the explaination! I rechecked and it looks like they do just >>lift >>off with a little help. They are in bad shape so I'm glad I have some on >>order but they have been on backorder for over 6 months. I'll leave the >>snaps. I have the 3M adhesive so I'm set there. Instead of felt I'm doing >>a >>heat shield made by Second Skin so I'll cover everything then then attach >>the carpet to that. >> >>Marty > > Your messages not reaching the list? > Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html > > === Help keep Team.Net on the air > === http://www.team.net/donate.html > > === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net or > try > === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool > === Other lists available at > === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo > === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > === http://www.team.net/the-local > === Edit your replies! From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sun Aug 5 02:19:05 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 01:19:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Caarpet Removed In-Reply-To: <001401c7d70e$d022bd00$0301a8c0@LAPTOP> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F4B73C1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <46B52018.8010103@maine.rr.com> <001401c7d70e$d022bd00$0301a8c0@LAPTOP> Message-ID: I should have plenty for the rear deck but not the doors or trunk. They just had a 15% off sale last week. I should have picked more up. Marty On 8/4/07, BobDanielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > > I didn't use that product (used Fat Mat) but putting it inside the doors > sure made a huge difference in the doors. Also make sure you put in on the > rear deck , on the gas tank and inside the trunk. You really can quiet a > TR > down! > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sun Aug 5 06:09:39 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 05:09:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] can you tell a rotor? In-Reply-To: <21669600.1186283707155.JavaMail.root@web30> Message-ID: <3.0.4.32.20070805050939.00eeacf8@pop.west.cox.net> I had the same problem (without the bad connector, but do have a sport coil as well as an Allison ignition) on my GT6 - Went through many bad rotors and fairly quickly, till I finally found the problem - ************************************************************ >---- emanteno at comcast.net wrote: >> I've heard some of them crack and arc, leading to misfires or no starting/running. > >I wonder though, how many times those incidents include other upgrades to the ignition system, like Lucas Sports coils. The rotor has to withstand any increase in voltage, and the path from the contact arm to the distributor post isn't very long at all. > >Caravanning home from VTR 2000, a local club member had a new rotor (installed @ VTR) fail on his TR4A. Failure itself was invisible, a carbon track through the interior of the rotor, grounding the spark to the dizzy shaft. He had a Lucas Sports coil, and, as it turned out, a bad spark plug connector that evidently allowed the coil to develop more voltage. > >Randall Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Aug 5 08:50:16 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 07:50:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Caarpet Removed In-Reply-To: References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F4B73C1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net><46B52018.8010103@maine.rr.com><001401c7d70e$d022bd00$0301a8c0@LAPTOP> Message-ID: <6166CD19C17F45B9A7641C086103F0A9@GeoPC> There should be a number of products available locally (auto upholstery supply company) that will work well in areas where heat insulation is not the issue (doors, gas tank, etc). Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marty Clark" To: "BobDanielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Cc: "Triumph Email List" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Foster, Stan" ; "David Friedlander" Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 1:19 AM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Caarpet Removed >I should have plenty for the rear deck but not the doors or trunk. They >just > had a 15% off sale last week. I should have picked more up. > > Marty From jmitch at snet.net Sun Aug 5 10:30:09 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 12:30:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ratco TR6 Frame Message-ID: <46B5FB11.3080506@snet.net> I purchased a new TR6 frame from Tony Viglioti at Ratco for a future project. I figured that while they were being made, I would purchase one and put it away for the day when my frame needs replacing or if I decide to build a modified TR6. I took the ferry from Bridgeport, CT to Port Jefferson, LI with my GMC truck to pick it up yesterday . His facility is modern and super clean. Tony gave my wife and I the tour of his shop, where he explained the use of the CNC plasma cutter and the welding jigs for the various TR frames. He said it's taken him 2 years to make all the Cad drawing for the various TR frames and is still tweaking things. He was also hosting a tech day for his Triumph club, and a number of TR6's , a spitfire and his own TR250 were already inside. His club is the one that was slicing a TR6 down the middle and widening the car by 6". The car is tucked away in his shop too, and he says it will be finished this year. I have to say the frame he made me, is real work of art. The Frame welding is first rate, and with the foam filling and black powder coating, it's almost a shame to put it under a car. There are slight differences from the original, so it's not for a concourse car, but it's the hot ticket for a Modified, fast road, or race car. Usually he sets the frame up for coil over springs and shocks, but I wanted to stay with levers, so he modified mine, so that I can go either way. He also usually moves the engine bay cross bar further forward for fan belt clearance. Mine also has a removable lower cruciform section which should really make exhaust installation easier. He will pretty much set it up any way that you require. Tony also mentioned that the frame will lower the ride height by I believe 3/8" He mentioned that the frame will be much stiffer than the stock frame and therefore will ride stiffer, but handle with much more consistency . If anyone is interested, I have a few pictures I can send. I have no financial interest. I just think Tony is a class act who is incredibly passionate about the Triumph hobby and is a perfectionist when it comes to the products he produces. John Mitchell 76 TR6 www.rat-co.com From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Aug 5 11:05:24 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 13:05:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ratco TR6 Frame References: <46B5FB11.3080506@snet.net> Message-ID: <000401c7d782$d1101180$89187247@fred8kwiskhcfu> John, at VTR 2007 he was exactly as you experienced, first and formost he was a "Triumph"person, he certainly made you feel welcomed and would answer any and all questions you might have "FT" From N197TR4 at cs.com Sun Aug 5 11:14:39 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 13:14:39 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Ratco TR6 Frame Message-ID: John! Right on! Tony and I have been talking for over a year. I finally got to meet him at VTR and review the frames. One of our Vintage Racers (TR4) received a frame this spring and is already running races with it. He couldnt be happier and insists it made a difference in the handling with additional stiffness. Another vintage racer took delivery of his frame, but I am unaware the status of the build. There will be more, I am sure. Tony is the real deal with these frames. He doesnt have to do this, but he is. Joe A. TR3A TR4 #197 AMBRO-Triumph > I purchased a new TR6 frame from Tony Viglioti at Ratco for a future > project. I figured that while they were being made, I would purchase > one and put it away for the day when my frame needs replacing or if I > decide to build a modified TR6. I took the ferry from Bridgeport, CT to > Port Jefferson, LI with my GMC truck to pick it up yesterday . His > facility is modern and super clean. Tony gave my wife and I the tour of > his shop, where he explained the use of the CNC plasma cutter and the > welding jigs for the various TR frames. He said it's taken him 2 years > to make all the Cad drawing for the various TR frames and is still > tweaking things. He was also hosting a tech day for his Triumph club, > and a number of TR6's , a spitfire and his own TR250 were already > inside. His club is the one that was slicing a TR6 down the middle and > widening the car by 6". The car is tucked away in his shop too, and he > says it will be finished this year. > I have to say the frame he made me, is real work of art. The Frame > welding is first rate, and with the foam filling and black powder > coating, it's almost a shame to put it under a car. There are slight > differences from the original, so it's not for a concourse car, but it's > the hot ticket for a Modified, fast road, or race car. Usually he sets > the frame up for coil over springs and shocks, but I wanted to stay with > levers, so he modified mine, so that I can go either way. He also > usually moves the engine bay cross bar further forward for fan belt > clearance. Mine also has a removable lower cruciform section which > should really make exhaust installation easier. He will pretty much set > it up any way that you require. Tony also mentioned that the frame will > lower the ride height by I believe 3/8" He mentioned that the frame > will be much stiffer than the stock frame and therefore will ride > stiffer, but handle with much more consistency . If anyone is > interested, I have a few pictures I can send. I have no financial > interest. I just think Tony is a class act who is incredibly passionate > about the Triumph hobby and is a perfectionist when it comes to the > products he produces. John Mitchell 76 TR6 > > www.rat-co.com > From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Aug 5 11:21:49 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 13:21:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! Message-ID: <050a01c7d785$1ce04330$bb0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I'm back! My welder is at the shop (or rather it's pcb has been mailed off-even there's some things I won't do). I've returned to mounting the wings on my TR3. Will I be commiting the ultimate sin if I 'crush the old cages' of a vacant cage nut's cage? I am using store-bought-8-sided-stainless-nuts (28 tpi) and on many spots this old cage provides the 'only pull-site'. Welding in new cages is not an option! Thanks, Paul (I must be a red-neck) 60 TR3 From DLylis at aol.com Sun Aug 5 11:53:35 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 13:53:35 EDT Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! Message-ID: Paul, Welcome to SFTAOCN, or the Society for the Abolishment of Caged Nuts. I have just removed the four wings from my 3A and throughout the entire process I wanted nothing more than to get my hands around the throat of the guy who thought that up. It is great idea for an application where you are going to remove them maybe a year after they were installed. Ten years? forget about it. Fifty years, HA! My extra favorite was the one behind the rubber plug under the dash. God was on my side there and I only had to cut one of them off. The other actually unscrewed. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Aug 5 11:59:20 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 13:59:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Ratco TR6 Frame References: Message-ID: <002001c7d78a$598fbf40$89187247@fred8kwiskhcfu> He doesnt have to do this, but he is. > > > Joe A. ======================================================================================================== Seems to be a few other owners spending a lot of time improving and making quality parts for our "hobbie", they don't have too, but they are, they race them as well. "FT" From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Aug 5 12:02:36 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 14:02:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! References: Message-ID: <002f01c7d78a$ce7ac700$89187247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Maybe a thank you for such a product that's still in use 50 years later could also apply. "FT" From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Aug 5 12:08:06 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 14:08:06 EDT Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! Message-ID: In a message dated 8/5/2007 11:03:35 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes: Maybe a thank you for such a product that's still in use 50 years later could also apply. "FT" I agree FT! Actually, I think they're pretty cool. I sometimes have to soak them, and I have had to replace some cages on my TR3 which I have owned (and restored three times now) since 1964. I have replaced cages by drilling and riveting the cage in in some cases. I also always run a tap carefully thr ough them before any reassembly. I think if one has a little more experience with them, and understand the alternatives better, you would appreciate them more! Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From FGFO1 at aol.com Sun Aug 5 12:44:14 2007 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 14:44:14 EDT Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! Message-ID: Paul, why no weld in new cages? its soooo easy. but if your going to use hex nuts why not cut the cage off? you can get at all the nuts with a spanner, even the front apron one's by taking the headlight out. I just think if you put a hex nut in a cage, you will one day cuss yourself for doing that. Frank Fisher TR3 TS41366L Temecula California ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Aug 5 13:06:15 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 15:06:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200708051506.15406.yellowtr@adelphia.net> During my TR3 restoration, I did remove all the cage nuts off the rear fenders. . There was significant rust repair and almost impossible to replace the cages in those places. Most of all the other cage nuts are still there. But maybe if anti seize had been used by the manufacturer I am sure the problems with frozen bolts/nuts would have been much less. To my surprise, there they still were used on the TR4, on the front fenders. Every nut and bolt got a liberal coating of anti seize during the 4 restoration. And every time I work on the 3 and remove nuts and bolts, anti seize is used when parts are replaced. Bob From 60TR3A at cox.net Sun Aug 5 13:20:31 2007 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 12:20:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! In-Reply-To: <200708051506.15406.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200708051506.15406.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <0B7A2630-1B38-4D7A-90E9-0F0DFEF2C664@cox.net> On 5 Aug, 2007, at 12:06 PM, Bob Labuz wrote: > And every time I work on the 3 and remove nuts and bolts, anti > seize is used > when parts are replaced. Amen Brother Bob!!!! (It is Sunday!) :-) John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From areich at telus.net Sun Aug 5 13:25:35 2007 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 12:25:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Water seeping up studs on a TR3A Message-ID: <46B6242F.5010500@telus.net> I just replaced the head gasket on my TR3A again, this time face side down, torqued heads to 105 lbs, in steps of 20, torquing twice each step. Sprayed gasket with Permatex copper spray, got it good and sticking. Warmed it up, then re-torqued again, after backing each nut 1/4 turn. To my dismay, now have cooling fluid coming up studs #10 and #4 .. haven't peeked under the valve cover to see if any more. Main leaking is from #10. I have heard about lead wire seal and cooling fluid sealing .. what are the thoughts of the List group ??? Allan Reich Vancouver 1960 TR3A TS65713L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 5 14:03:09 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 13:03:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Water seeping up studs on a TR3A Message-ID: <20262953.1186344189427.JavaMail.root@web20> ---- Allan Reich wrote: > I just replaced the head gasket on my TR3A again, Did you check the nuts, studs & washers as I suggested before ? Liner protrusion ? Check head for flatness ? > I have heard about lead wire seal and cooling fluid sealing .. what are > the thoughts of the List group ??? My first thought would be to run it a bit more and see if the problem corrects itself. Ordinary quality anti-freeze (which I assume you replaced after changing the head gasket) contains a small amount of stop-leak, which may be effective after some time. It's also possible some times for coolant to be trapped in the stud cavity and be forced out when the engine gets hot (which will stop eventually). If not, you could try some Aluma-Seal (my favorite) or similar. Otherwise, I'm afraid it's off with the head again, to try to find the leakage path. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 5 14:15:22 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 13:15:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! Message-ID: <28445388.1186344922161.JavaMail.root@web20> ---- FRED E THOMAS wrote: > Maybe a thank you for such a product that's still in use 50 years later > could also apply. Especially considering how many fasteners on modern cars are special purpose "one shot" deals that must be replaced every time. A real nightmare when the maker is out of business, or no longer sells in your country, or simply doesn't supply that part any more. And since the fasteners are one-shots, buying a parts car doesn't help. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sun Aug 5 14:18:14 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 16:18:14 EDT Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! Message-ID: In a message dated 8/5/2007 1:44:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, FGFO1 at aol.com writes: I just think if you put a hex nut in a cage, you will one day cuss yourself for doing that. Frank Fisher OK I am the first to admit that I am not the most experienced with these things. Actually, from Franks comment I now realize the source of my frustration. Many of mine had hex nuts, not square. No amount of PB Blaster would work with the hexs, they would just spin in the cage. Looks like someone didn't plan too well in a previous life. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 5 14:26:31 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 13:26:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! Message-ID: <16683068.1186345591620.JavaMail.root@web20> I've forgotten if we found a source of the nuts or not ... was just thinking that it wouldn't be all that hard to make them yourself. MMC will sell you a foot of 7/16" square stock for under $4, then all you have to do is drill & tap it. Easier with a lathe, but not impossible by hand. And if you pay yourself minimum wage, those nuts shouldn't wind up costing more than $4-5 each Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sun Aug 5 14:33:19 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 16:33:19 EDT Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! Message-ID: In places where it is difficult/impossible to reach the back side and the bolt had to be cut, what is the conventional wisdom in reattaching the rear wing? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Aug 5 15:21:06 2007 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 15:21:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Ratco TR6 Frame References: <46B5FB11.3080506@snet.net> <000401c7d782$d1101180$89187247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <002201c7d7a6$89772ba0$ef50464b@rolofson> I had a similiar experience with Tony at VTR 2007. He and the other venders were packing up on the last day after what I'm sure was a long week for them but he took the time to talk to me about the frames, which I'm sure he'd done with others a thousand times already that week. He treated me like I was the first person he'd talked to all week. I was impressed not only with the frames but with his patience, and civility. Nice gentleman. I bought one of his shock in coil kits at the auction and ironically enough I needed it the minute I got home since my tube shock conversion ripped a piece of the crossmemeber out about 150 miles from home after 4300 miles to Valley Forge and back. Thankfully the jagged piece didn't blow out a tire but it certainly ground some rubber off it. I welded the piece back in today since it is support for the differential, but I'm sure glad a I have shock in coil kit to install. I can send pics to anyone who's interested in seeing some scary pictures of the ripped out piece and the hole it left in the crossmember. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: FRED E THOMAS To: John Mitchell ; 6-Pack ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 11:05 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco TR6 Frame John, at VTR 2007 he was exactly as you experienced, first and formost he was a "Triumph"person, he certainly made you feel welcomed and would answer any and all questions you might have "FT" _______________________________________________ levilevi at comcast.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Aug 5 15:23:41 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 17:23:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] cage nuts no more! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200708051723.42005.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 05 August 2007 04:33 pm, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > In places where it is difficult/impossible to reach the back side and the > bolt had to be cut, what is the conventional wisdom in reattaching the rear > wing? > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > Dave, I dont know if this will work for you but I replaced the 3 lower rear caged nuts that are hidden by removing that panel, removing the nuts and cutting slots so I could install the speed nuts that are used on a TR4. I re-welded the panel and the rear fender is now secured similar to a TR4. I have had to remove the fenders a few times and those 3 bolts just come out as easy as pie. Bob From triumphworks at gmail.com Sun Aug 5 15:49:09 2007 From: triumphworks at gmail.com (Alain) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 17:49:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fiamm/Hella air horns on TR4-TR6 Message-ID: Is anyone using a Fiamm/Hella AIR horn setup on their car?? If so, how do they like it over time?? Also, since the Fiamm or Hella air horn set up only has one electric mechanism -- how does one wire it in? Put another way, what does one do with the other horn circuit that will be blank?? Thanks for to all the EE and Air horn users out there in advance, Alain From acstults at juno.com Sun Aug 5 16:37:47 2007 From: acstults at juno.com (acstults at juno.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 22:37:47 GMT Subject: [TR] dynamat Message-ID: <20070805.153747.24608.0@webmail23.lax.untd.com> Does anybody have any experience with Dynamat? I'm thinking about trying to use some soundproofing in a few areas of my TR3. It is much more expensive than other soundproofing materials. Is it worth the extra expense? ________________________________________________________________________ Get Juno DSL - the easier, safer broadband! http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://ads.addynamix.com/click/2-2125045-32 From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Aug 5 17:07:33 2007 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (BobDanielson) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 19:07:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] dynamat References: <20070805.153747.24608.0@webmail23.lax.untd.com> Message-ID: <002f01c7d7b5$69f27be0$0301a8c0@LAPTOP> I went with Fat Mat which I got on eBay and found it very easy to work with and it's been very effective in all the places I put it. It's also a fraction of the cost of Dynamat. You can see pictures of where I used it on my site Unfortunatley I've also heard that it's in short supply so you might want to check their web site and call them before ordering. Someone on the List just did a post about another simialr product that they used. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 6:37 PM Subject: [TR] dynamat > Does anybody have any experience with Dynamat? I'm thinking about > trying to use some soundproofing in a few areas of my TR3. It is much > more expensive than other soundproofing materials. Is it worth the > extra expense? > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > Get Juno DSL - the easier, safer broadband! > http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://ads.addynamix.com/click/2-2125045-32 > _______________________________________________ > 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Aug 5 17:26:37 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 19:26:37 EDT Subject: [TR] Ratco TR6 Frame Message-ID: In a message dated 8/5/2007 12:05:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes: John, at VTR 2007 he was exactly as you experienced, first and formost he was a "Triumph"person, he certainly made you feel welcomed and would answer any and all questions you might have "FT" Just as Fred and Bud have already said - I met Tony Viglioti at the VTR convention as well and had the very same overwhelmingly positive experience - and I WANT one of those frames for my next project! Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sun Aug 5 17:37:25 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 16:37:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] dynamat In-Reply-To: <002f01c7d7b5$69f27be0$0301a8c0@LAPTOP> References: <20070805.153747.24608.0@webmail23.lax.untd.com> <002f01c7d7b5$69f27be0$0301a8c0@LAPTOP> Message-ID: I am about to install Damplifier Pro from http://www.secondskinaudio.com/ I chose it primarily as a heat barrier for the AZ summers. I choose it because someone on the list a couple of months ago had posted a link to a test someone did rating a bunch of the heat barrier products and Damplifer Pro came out as the best. The Second Skin web site also lists its noise reduction properties. They also have a series of other product to reduce noise. Damplifer Pro was one of the most expensive products listed in the test. I paid $150 for 36 sq ft. I've got the old capet removed and am now cleaning up the adhesive and the remains of the felt. Should be installing the Damplifier Pro this week and then the new carpet. Marty Clark On 8/5/07, BobDanielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > > I went with Fat Mat which I got on eBay and found it very easy to work > with > and it's been very effective in all the places I put it. It's also a > fraction of the cost of Dynamat. You can see pictures of where I used it > on > my site Unfortunatley I've also heard that it's in short supply so you > might > want to check their web site and call them before ordering. Someone on the > List just did a post about another simialr product that they used. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From bbrewer at tvwireless.net Sun Aug 5 19:21:59 2007 From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 18:21:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fiamm/Hella air horns on TR4-TR6 Message-ID: <1EA96B84-7AF9-48F9-BFCC-6956DB80ACC4@tvwireless.net> I put a Fiamm air horn on my classic Mini Cooper and didn't like it. It sounded like a mariachi band. I ended up selling it at a yard sale. Get an original horn. Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA Message: 14 Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 17:49:09 -0400 From: Alain Subject: [TR] Fiamm/Hella air horns on TR4-TR6 To: "list Triumph" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Is anyone using a Fiamm/Hella AIR horn setup on their car?? If so, how do they like it over time?? Also, since the Fiamm or Hella air horn set up only has one electric mechanism -- how does one wire it in? Put another way, what does one do with the other horn circuit that will be blank?? Thanks for to all the EE and Air horn users out there in advance, Alain From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Aug 5 19:31:36 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 18:31:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fiamm/Hella air horns on TR4-TR6 In-Reply-To: <1EA96B84-7AF9-48F9-BFCC-6956DB80ACC4@tvwireless.net> References: <1EA96B84-7AF9-48F9-BFCC-6956DB80ACC4@tvwireless.net> Message-ID: <3FB2CFA592E2406D948690AC8CA68B72@GeoPC> Perfect... Joe & I are each going to have to get one. Geo (Tucson) ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 6:21 PM Subject: [TR] Fiamm/Hella air horns on TR4-TR6 > I put a Fiamm air horn on my classic Mini Cooper and didn't > like it. It sounded like a mariachi band. From airsmyth at comcast.net Sun Aug 5 19:49:30 2007 From: airsmyth at comcast.net (Brooks Bullock) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 21:49:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: I have a question about Triumph parts Message-ID: Can anyone help this fellow out. Please respond to him directly...nicholas serafini [mailto:rescue3450 at yahoo.com] Thanks Brooks -----Original Message----- From: nicholas serafini [mailto:rescue3450 at yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 4:35 PM To: Airsmyth at adelphia.net Subject: I have a question about Triumph parts Hi my name is Nick, i have a 1967 Triumph Herald and i am having a killer time finding parts for this car. My question is do you know any sites, auto part stores or anyone else that owns one. So if you can email me back at Rescue3450 at yahoo.com or give me a call at 864-439-9426 im in S.C Thanks so much. Nick From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 5 22:02:58 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 21:02:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: I have a question about Triumph parts Message-ID: <27468253.1186372978596.JavaMail.root@web14.mail.adelphia.net> > Hi my name is Nick, i have a 1967 Triumph Herald and i am having a killer > time finding parts > for this car. My question is do you know any sites, auto part stores or > anyone else that owns one. Hi Nick : Check out the Triumph_Herald group on Yahoo!; there are quite a few Herald owners on there, many in the US. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/triumph_herald/ I don't know of anyone in the US that specifically stocks much in the way of Herald parts in the US; except of course for the parts that are common with other Triumphs. Best bet there is to get a copy of the factory Spare Parts Catalogue and buy from the various vendors that list parts by those numbers, like TRF http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/ or SpitBits http://www.spitbits.com The best supplier, IMO, is Canley Classics in the UK http://www.canleyclassics.com/ but shipping can be quite expensive. I did own an almost-Herald (Sports 6) but sold it recently. I expect you'll also hear from Andy Mace, who runs a database/web page for Heralds and derivatives : http://hometown.aol.com/herald1200/database/index.html Randall From als6point9 at gmail.com Sun Aug 5 22:40:46 2007 From: als6point9 at gmail.com (Al Al) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 21:40:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hood prop for a 1980 Triumph Spitfire Message-ID: All I managed to break a good friends hood prop. I'm talking about the pipe shaped arm that holds the hood open and latches. Does anyone have a good used on? If you're in or near Dallas, you would be doing me a huge favor. This is for a 1980 Spritfire All the best Al From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Sun Aug 5 23:41:57 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 06:41:57 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Pertronix Message-ID: <162522.78616.qm@web27415.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hi Listers, If one is fitting Pertronix electronic ignition is it necessary to upgrade the coil? TIA Chris --------------------------------- Yahoo! Mail is the world's favourite email. Don't settle for less, sign up for your freeaccount today. From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Mon Aug 6 00:00:25 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 07:00:25 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A Message-ID: <986464.61289.qm@web27412.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hi Listers, Still not much progress I am afraid. Have now checked the compression which is 100%. Now I am finding it seems to miss worse than before but improves greatly when I pull out the choke so seems it could be fuel after all. I disconnected the fuel line before the carbs and turned over the engine to find a strong flow from the fuel pump. What next? TIA Chris Chris Buckley wrote: Hi Listers, I have now changed the sooty plug and going for a test drive tomorrow. It was definitely sooty rather than oily. Regarding the PCV valve, I have installed a rocker feed kit as sold by Moss and was wondering if that could be the cause of a lot of oil being pushed through the valve and being dumped into cylinder no 3 causing it to make the plug sooty. all advice greatly appreciated, Thanks, Chris > When I got home I removed HT leads in turn and found that removing the lead from number 3 cylinder made the least difference to the idle. > I then checked all plugs and found No 3 to be 'sooty' while all the others were clean burnt light grey colour. . I would also check the soot on the plug--does it feel dry and fluffy, or oily? If the latter, it's time to do a compression check. If the former, the plug could be firing intermittently, or, there might be a slight vacuum leak at the manifold at that cylinder. --------------------------------- Yahoo! Mail is the world's favourite email. Don't settle for less, sign up for your free account today. --------------------------------- Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Tryit now. From eoot at citlink.net Mon Aug 6 09:35:58 2007 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 11:35:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Pertronix References: <162522.78616.qm@web27415.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00a901c7d83f$7c821e70$640a0a0a@MyComputski> Nope, not necessary. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Buckley" To: Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 1:41 AM Subject: [TR] Pertronix > Hi Listers, > If one is fitting Pertronix electronic ignition is it necessary to > upgrade the coil? > TIA > Chris > > > --------------------------------- > Yahoo! Mail is the world's favourite email. Don't settle for less, sign up > for your freeaccount today. > _______________________________________________ > eoot at citlink.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From cak at dimebank.com Mon Aug 6 09:45:23 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 08:45:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fiamm/Hella air horns on TR4-TR6 Message-ID: <200708061545.l76FjMU5021687@moose.dimebank.com> I've had a couple of the "all in one" Fiamm air horns - the compact ones that mount the horns directly to the compressor body. They're really not very good. They draw a lot of current (10A or more) and the point at which the horns mate to the compressor tends to start leaking after a year or so. I use the Hella Supertone horns now, which can be mounted to the original horn brackets and are really quite loud. From Btmfdchn at aol.com Mon Aug 6 09:46:32 2007 From: Btmfdchn at aol.com (Btmfdchn at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 11:46:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Pertronix Message-ID: In a message dated 8/6/2007 8:36:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time, eoot at citlink.net writes: Hi Listers, > If one is fitting Pertronix electronic ignition is it necessary to > upgrade the coil? > TIA > Chris Greetings... You must make certain the coil resistance in 3 ohms across the + and - terminals. Many "high performance" coils are lower and will shorten the life of the Pertronix. TJ ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dncullig at us.ibm.com Mon Aug 6 09:50:33 2007 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 11:50:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Re: Shock conversion failure (was Ratco TR6 Frame) Message-ID: "Buf" wrote: >I bought one of his shock in coil kits at the auction and ironically enough I >needed it the minute I got home since my tube shock conversion ripped a piece >of the crossmemeber out about 150 miles from home after 4300 miles to Valley >Forge and back. Thankfully the jagged piece didn't blow out a tire but it >certainly ground some rubber off it. I welded the piece back in today since >it is support for the differential, but I'm sure glad a I have shock in coil >kit to install. >I can send pics to anyone who's interested in seeing some scary pictures of >the ripped out piece and the hole it left in the crossmember. Hi Buf... er.. Bud - Please send me a copy of those pictures. In a bit of Triumph irony, I bought a tube shock conversion at the auction... that was provided by RATCO! I'm hoping I can have it installed w/o encountering the problem you had. Which conversion kit did you install? How long ago did you do the conversion? Is this a common problem? Anybody else with this issue? Thanks. Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH DNCULLIG at US.IBM.COM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 6 10:36:43 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 09:36:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A In-Reply-To: <986464.61289.qm@web27412.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <986464.61289.qm@web27412.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <040a01c7d847$f961ead0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Now I am > finding it seems to miss worse than before but improves > greatly when I pull out the choke so seems it could be fuel > after all. I disconnected the fuel line before the carbs and > turned over the engine to find a strong flow from the fuel pump. I would take that as an indication that it's time to disassemble and clean the carbs. However, it might be worth hooking up a gauge to check fuel pressure at the carbs, when the problem occurs; as sometimes there can be intermittent problems with fuel delivery. Most vacuum test gauges will also read fuel pressure, so just 'tee' the gauge into the line at the rear carb, lead the line out from under the bonnet, and trap the gauge under a wiper blade where you can see it while driving. If you can still see a minimum of 1 psi (2 is spec as I recall), then fuel delivery is not the issue. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. 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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 6 10:39:07 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 09:39:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pertronix In-Reply-To: <162522.78616.qm@web27415.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <162522.78616.qm@web27415.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <040b01c7d848$4e9d6010$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > If one is fitting Pertronix electronic ignition is it > necessary to upgrade the coil? No, the stock coil should work just fine. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Aug 6 11:06:38 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 13:06:38 EDT Subject: [TR] Ratco TR6 Frame Message-ID: In a message dated 8/5/2007 9:31:01 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jmitch at snet.net writes: Tony is a class act who is incredibly passionate about the Triumph hobby John & List, I couldn't agree more with you. I met Tony at Valley Forge as well....too bad he wasn't selling these frames in the late 90's when I was at that stage with my TR6 restoration. Looking back, I think I would have not only bought the frame if it were available then but could have been easily convinced to buy the Moss supercharger kit as well if it were available....oh well, that's progress! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Mon Aug 6 11:18:45 2007 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (aldwyn at sylvancircle.org) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 11:18:45 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] Pertronix In-Reply-To: <040b01c7d848$4e9d6010$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: <162522.78616.qm@web27415.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> <040b01c7d848$4e9d6010$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <12857.199.67.140.83.1186420725.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org> So is there a benefit to using the Flame Thrower coil with the Pertronix ignition? Or is the Lucus coil just the same? >> If one is fitting Pertronix electronic ignition is it >> necessary to upgrade the coil? > > No, the stock coil should work just fine. > > Randall From peb3 at cornell.edu Mon Aug 6 11:27:39 2007 From: peb3 at cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 13:27:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ratco TR6 Frame In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here's one more vote for Tony and his work. I spend quite a bit of time talking to him and sat in on one of his seminars during the VTR convention. His product appears to be first-rate and he is certainly knowledgeable about TR frames in general. We differed on the topic of rear shock absorbers; he is death on levers, I'm something of a proponent. Either way, he'll build a frame to suit your requirements. Now that my girlfriend knows how much I want a Ratco frame, she keeps reminding me to save my money. She also wants to go to Hawaii next spring. This doesn't look like an either/or situation. -- Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) Middlebury Center, PA (visit our new location!) '71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 6 11:57:30 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 10:57:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pertronix In-Reply-To: <12857.199.67.140.83.1186420725.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org> References: <162522.78616.qm@web27415.mail.ukl.yahoo.com><040b01c7d848$4e9d6010$6a5636cc@navcom.com> <12857.199.67.140.83.1186420725.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org> Message-ID: <041601c7d853$4214c0d0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > So is there a benefit to using the Flame Thrower coil with > the Pertronix > ignition? Or is the Lucus coil just the same? Might be some small benefit; but I've not found it. I suspect the main benefit is from less weight to accelerate (in your wallet). Plus, I believe it makes other components (like the rotor) more apt to fail. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 6 13:54:56 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 12:54:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] bearing shells In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <044e01c7d863$a9dea090$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Cleaning out some old email, and found this with no reply : > I could probably look this up, but, does anyone know if the > bearing surface > in rods/main shells and cam bearings for TR3A contain ferrous metal? I believe the front cam bearing is ferrous. The other bearings are faced with softer metals, but generally have iron in the backing material. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 6 15:46:40 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 14:46:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Transmission cover References: <21092379.1186195747605.JavaMail.root@web25> Message-ID: <03a801c7d873$46e54e20$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Hi Group, I need a good picture of the steel tunnel transmission cover for a TR3A. Specifically I need a picture of the area on the left side (drivers side in the USA) where the cover makes the transition from the firewall/bulkhead to the floor. My cover which is otherwise in reasonable shape, has for some reason been cut away in this area where most of the flange is gone for about 5 inches. It won't be that big a deal to weld in a patch but I want to make sure what the cover should look like when I am finished. So, if you have your cover off and accessable, please take a picture of this area and email me direct. Thanks, I really appreciate the help. Mike Denman From clarkfot at cwnicholls.net Mon Aug 6 16:03:09 2007 From: clarkfot at cwnicholls.net (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 18:03:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] NJ 1974 yellow TR6 in the Berkshires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <006b01c7d875$952b13b0$1342a8c0@semperon3400> Anyone here driving/riding in the yellow 1974 TR6 on Rt 23 in Monterey MA on Sunday August 5? License plate 74 TR6 I believe... I'm the Burgundy 1974 Spitfire headed the other way (West). Clark From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Mon Aug 6 16:10:02 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 00:10:02 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive References: <46ae30fb.288.1897.18489@cogeco.ca> <02f401c7d2e9$7f18e7a0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <001c01c7d876$8a034880$0500a8c0@Study> > I was going to try adjusting the arm the solenoid acts on it > slightly up or > down but as its such a pain to do I was > hoping for something that would increase my odds from 50/50 > on weather I > should adjust up or down? Any votes? A few days ago Randall suggested the answer could be found in http://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/TransRebuild/OverDriveA02.pdf. As usual Randall is absolutely right. I adjusted the lever using the Haynes rcommendation with the 3/16" lock piece and as it said in the VTR write up my O/D did'nt work.So to plan B in the write up.However it occurred to me that not everyone will have a dial gauge (including me) to measure the "up" movement of the ball. So I used a drill bit of the diameter to fit the top plug hole with marker pen ink and marked the "down" position of the ball on the drill. Then on energising the solenoid and playing with the pinch bolt I was able to get the .030" to .040" lift and confirm it by marking the "up" position of the ball. You can measure the distance between the two marks with feelers. And praise be my O/D works again! YMMV of course, David Briste1967 TR4A. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 4849 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 6 16:55:38 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 15:55:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Intermittent overdrive In-Reply-To: <001c01c7d876$8a034880$0500a8c0@Study> References: <46ae30fb.288.1897.18489@cogeco.ca><02f401c7d2e9$7f18e7a0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> <001c01c7d876$8a034880$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <047601c7d87c$e844b630$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > However it > occurred to me > that not everyone will have a dial gauge (including me) to > measure the "up" > movement of the ball. Good solution, David ! JIC I haven't beat Enco's drum recently; they almost always have a dial indicator set on sale for under $20. Today, P/N NW625-1845 is on sale for $17, which includes a 1" travel .001" indicator and a magnetic base. And they do ship internationally for a reasonable price; frequently cheaper than buying locally for those in Europe. http://www.use-enco.com Of course, it's not the same quality as a Starrett or Mitutoyo; but I've been quite happy with mine. NFI, etc. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From supertr6 at earthlink.net Mon Aug 6 17:11:51 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2007 19:11:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising Message-ID: <46B7AAB7.3060609@earthlink.net> So, I am upstairs on the computer when my wife calls me down to look at a magazine. She shows me a picture of a well endowed woman in a sweater dress. As I stare at the page trying to figure out why in the world my wife wants me to check some hot babe in a low cut dress (not that I minded of course) she says, "Can you tell what car that is?" Oh, there is a car interior in the background! Turns out it is a TR6. Turns out the whole catalog has women in front of a TR6! It is the Boston Proper catalog for Fall 1/07. Enjoy and tell your wife you got it so she can look at some new fashions! Joe From bdischer at blakedischer.com Mon Aug 6 17:17:51 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 19:17:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <46B7AAB7.3060609@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <005401c7d880$04af7690$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> Very cool. Browse the catalog: http://tinyurl.com/2hv9pz Best, Blake -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Burlein Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 7:12 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising So, I am upstairs on the computer when my wife calls me down to look at a magazine. She shows me a picture of a well endowed woman in a sweater dress. As I stare at the page trying to figure out why in the world my wife wants me to check some hot babe in a low cut dress (not that I minded of course) she says, "Can you tell what car that is?" Oh, there is a car interior in the background! Turns out it is a TR6. Turns out the whole catalog has women in front of a TR6! It is the Boston Proper catalog for Fall 1/07. Enjoy and tell your wife you got it so she can look at some new fashions! From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Mon Aug 6 17:20:07 2007 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 19:20:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <46B7AAB7.3060609@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <000001c7d880$547b2ac0$0301a8c0@chuck> Here's the link to the Boston Proper catalog: http://www.bostonproper.com/shopping/browsecatalog/browsecatalogdirectorymai n.jsp?iPGID=2460 Just click the 'Next' button to leaf through the pages. Chuck Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Burlein Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 7:12 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising So, I am upstairs on the computer when my wife calls me down to look at a magazine. She shows me a picture of a well endowed woman in a sweater dress. As I stare at the page trying to figure out why in the world my wife wants me to check some hot babe in a low cut dress (not that I minded of course) she says, "Can you tell what car that is?" Oh, there is a car interior in the background! Turns out it is a TR6. Turns out the whole catalog has women in front of a TR6! It is the Boston Proper catalog for Fall 1/07. Enjoy and tell your wife you got it so she can look at some new fashions! Joe From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 6 17:35:47 2007 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (KURT JOHNSON) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:35:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Kansas City All British Car and Cycle Show Message-ID: <583746.79387.qm@web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Anyone here going to Kansas City? ____________________________________________________________________________________ Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids. http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Aug 6 17:39:30 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2007 19:39:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising References: <005401c7d880$04af7690$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> Message-ID: <001401c7d883$098401b0$fe197247@fred8kwiskhcfu> The T/R looks a lot like a VTR/list member from that area, come-on Bob is that your car !!!!!!! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 6 17:48:21 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:48:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Kansas City All British Car and Cycle Show In-Reply-To: <583746.79387.qm@web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <583746.79387.qm@web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <048401c7d884$4531c200$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Anyone here going to Kansas City? Not me. Already got a crazy little woman, don't need any more ! (Sorry, couldn't resist.) Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Aug 6 19:32:56 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 20:32:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Kansas City All British Car and Cycle Show References: <583746.79387.qm@web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <048401c7d884$4531c200$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <002d01c7d892$e20d5d60$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> yeah, but, everything's up to date in Kansas City. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 6:48 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Kansas City All British Car and Cycle Show >> Anyone here going to Kansas City? > > Not me. Already got a crazy little woman, don't need any more ! > > (Sorry, couldn't resist.) > > Randall > (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) > > > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it > may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of > its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or > entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and > not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. > If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for > delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that > you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, > dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is > strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, > please immediately notify the sender by return mail. > _______________________________________________ > mmarr at notwires.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 6 19:36:31 2007 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 21:36:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising References: <005401c7d880$04af7690$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> Message-ID: Now if Victoria's Secret would get on the British Car bandwagon..... > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bdischer=blakedischer.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf > Of Joe Burlein > Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 7:12 PM > To: Triumph List > Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising > > So, I am upstairs on the computer when my wife calls me down to look at a > magazine. She shows me a picture of a well endowed woman in a sweater > dress. As I stare at the page trying to figure out why in the world my > wife > wants me to check some hot babe in a low cut dress (not that I minded of > course) she says, "Can you tell what car that is?" Oh, there is a car > interior in the background! Turns out it is a TR6. Turns out the whole > catalog has women in front of a TR6! It is the Boston Proper catalog for > Fall 1/07. Enjoy and tell your wife you got it so she can look at some > new > fashions! From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Aug 6 19:37:08 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 21:37:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: TR6 Message-ID: <000701c7d893$77edbe10$284d3b47@Scott> Here is a problem a club member is experiencing with a recently purchased TR6 that came with SUs. I told him that vapor lock comes up once or twice a year, but just doesn't seem to amount to anything, at least no vapor lock. The only thing is the SU conversion on the 6. I'll share the list's thoughts with him. Thanks. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 _____ From: John Krause [mailto:jktr250 at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 5:52 PM To: Scott Suhring Subject: TR6 I have installed the Moss HS6 SU conversion in my 1970 TR6. I can start the car, but when it gets hot, the car stalls and cannot be started until it cools. When the car begins to stall, the rear SU blows fuel out of the vent tube. I have all metal plumbing from the fuel pump to the front of the carbs ... the fuel line splits below the front carb and then feeds both float bowls. The problem appears to be vapor lock, but does anyone have any thoughts as to why this is happening? Could the metal fuel lines have anything to do with it? Would a heat shield cure this problem? From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Aug 6 19:43:45 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 21:43:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Question on new List Server Message-ID: <001101c7d894$64e076e0$284d3b47@Scott> I have two questions on the new list server: 1. I went to the archives site and only found July and August 2007 posting. Are the previous years of postings still accessible and if so, where? 2. When I want to reply to just the person who posted the message to the list, it seems to default to the entire list. How do you get around this? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Aug 6 20:22:56 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 22:22:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Question on new List Server References: <001101c7d894$64e076e0$284d3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <002a01c7d899$e0146f60$c50360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Scott, Here's old archives: http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/triumphs/ Paul From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Aug 6 20:25:47 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 22:25:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] liner?, beading? Message-ID: <003101c7d89a$44fd1b70$c50360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I have decided to buy a battery-box liner. It looks like they don't have a drain hole, too bad. I wonder if it would be smart to cut a small hole in one and buy a tiny plastic funnel for rain to drain thru? Is there a difference between a TR2-TR3 liner from TRF and Moss? I think Moss wants $55 for a TR3 liner! Another question: I've heard that rubber fender beading might help reduce fender squeaking. Did I make that up or is it the truth? Thanks, Paul From rbtr3a at cox.net Mon Aug 6 21:12:07 2007 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 23:12:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] SEVTR Message-ID: <000001c7d8a0$c15923c0$e9a0b946@ronniej94vilm0> Guys the Southeastern VTR is just around the corner the online registration is now functional, this years featured cars are the Herald and Vitesse models. Our theme is to raise a little HAVOC on the Beach, HAVOC= Herald and Vitesse Owners Convergence The event will take place on Jekyll Island Georgia, OCT 18th -20th 2007 Come visit our website to see the great artwork and information regarding the event. For those who are not familiar with the SEVTR regional committee, the regional is hosted through the cooperation of Various Southeastern VTR chapters, with each club hosting a portion of the event. The SEVTR Committee is composed of the following clubs. The GTA Georgia Triumph Association host the Welcoming party and organizes the banquet; The Central Florida Triumph Register hosts the Car shows; Tampa Bay Triumph club hosts the Hospitality Suite; The Temple of Triumph host the Crafts and Funkhana; The Triumph Club Of the Carolinas host the Autocross; The Triumph club of North Florida conduct all the Driving events, And the Gold Coast Triumph club assist with registration. Each of these clubs brings to the event a high level of enthusiasm and every year they exceed all expectation required to host their portion of the event. This format allows everyone an opportunity to participate in the event. For once you have finished your commitment; your club is now able to enjoy the rest of the regional. No one club bears the burden of planning and managing the entire event. If you have never been to the SEVTR you are really missing out, just ask anyone who has attended. SEVTR website and registration www.sevtr.org Ronnie Babbitt From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 6 21:32:16 2007 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 20:32:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Kansas City All British Car and Cycle Show In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <939225.32776.qm@web37511.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Yeah....son Austin and I will be there. We're also planning to visit the Boulevard Brewery. Its a shame that show isn't better advertised. I've put it on the VTR site several years just so people will know about it. Its a great show in a really nice location. Cheers- Chad Message: 9 Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:35:47 -0700 (PDT) From: KURT JOHNSON Subject: [TR] Kansas City All British Car and Cycle Show To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <583746.79387.qm at web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Anyone here going to Kansas City? From rickandcecilia at comcast.net Mon Aug 6 21:38:17 2007 From: rickandcecilia at comcast.net (Rick & Cecilia) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 23:38:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising References: <000001c7d880$547b2ac0$0301a8c0@chuck> Message-ID: <02a201c7d8a4$694eb330$0b01a8c0@joshua> Ok, Ok, enough...whew! ----- Original Message ----- From: "C E White" To: "'Joe Burlein'" ; "'Triumph List'" Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 7:20 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising > Here's the link to the Boston Proper catalog: > > http://www.bostonproper.com/shopping/browsecatalog/browsecatalogdirectorymai > n.jsp?iPGID=2460 > > Just click the 'Next' button to leaf through the pages. > > Chuck > Xenia, OH > 1965 TR4A IRS > 1970 GT6+ > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf > Of Joe Burlein > Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 7:12 PM > To: Triumph List > Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising > > > So, I am upstairs on the computer when my wife calls me down to look at > a magazine. She shows me a picture of a well endowed woman in a sweater > dress. As I stare at the page trying to figure out why in the world my > wife wants me to check some hot babe in a low cut dress (not that I > minded of course) she says, "Can you tell what car that is?" Oh, there > is a car interior in the background! Turns out it is a TR6. Turns out > the whole catalog has women in front of a TR6! It is the Boston Proper > catalog for Fall 1/07. Enjoy and tell your wife you got it so she can > look at some new fashions! > > Joe > _______________________________________________ > rickandcecilia at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jimbpps at cox.net Mon Aug 6 21:38:22 2007 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 20:38:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Transmission cover In-Reply-To: <03a801c7d873$46e54e20$210110ac@MIKESDELL> References: <21092379.1186195747605.JavaMail.root@web25> <03a801c7d873$46e54e20$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Message-ID: <7C9710E11F324AD394C09A484C7D385D@JimofficePC> Mike, For some strange reason they did not put a flange on the section beside the accelerator pedal! Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Denman Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 2:47 PM To: Triumph list; owner-triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Transmission cover Hi Group, I need a good picture of the steel tunnel transmission cover for a TR3A. Specifically I need a picture of the area on the left side (drivers side in the USA) where the cover makes the transition from the firewall/bulkhead to the floor. My cover which is otherwise in reasonable shape, has for some reason been cut away in this area where most of the flange is gone for about 5 inches. It won't be that big a deal to weld in a patch but I want to make sure what the cover should look like when I am finished. So, if you have your cover off and accessable, please take a picture of this area and email me direct. Thanks, I really appreciate the help. Mike Denman _______________________________________________ From FGFO1 at aol.com Mon Aug 6 23:09:43 2007 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 01:09:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Kansas City All British Car and Cycle Show Message-ID: Anyone here going to Kansas City? nah..but Boston has some merit! ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 308gtsi at adelphia.net Mon Aug 6 23:13:46 2007 From: 308gtsi at adelphia.net (Brian Induni) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 22:13:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Noisy tach Message-ID: <00b701c7d8b1$bc43a7f0$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Hello all, I'm in the shake down phase of my restoration, and have found the tach to make the most noise of all. It is pretty constant, but is a bit intermittent. Any suggestions as to how to make it quiet down?? Definitely the tach as it makes the noise with the engine running but not moving. Also, does the ammeter ever sit at zero? Mine always reads pretty high on the + side - new battery, the largest I could fit in the plastic battery box! Regards, Brian 1967 TR4a, running, driving, and more fun than retirement! From 308gtsi at adelphia.net Mon Aug 6 23:20:18 2007 From: 308gtsi at adelphia.net (Brian Induni) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 22:20:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear shock conversion Message-ID: <00bc01c7d8b2$a528eed0$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Hello all, I'm concerned that I'm now reading about failures to rear shock conversions! Can someone post pics of the conversion they used the resulting damage? Also, how hard were you driving when they failed? There shouldn't be any more stress on the supporting cross member that held the Armstrong levers after installing the conversions. but then again, maybe ones driving habits change? Details, man, details! Brian 1967 TR4a, shaking down after nearly finished restoration! From 308gtsi at adelphia.net Mon Aug 6 23:22:58 2007 From: 308gtsi at adelphia.net (Brian Induni) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 22:22:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carpet Replacement TR6 - Any Tips? Message-ID: <00c101c7d8b3$050c8280$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Short and sweet - buy, read, and use Roger Williams' "How to Restore Triumph TR4 & TR4A". Hands down the best reference book I own! Great section on how to install carpet, recover seats, and install the top. Brian 1967 TR4a From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Aug 6 23:50:53 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 01:50:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <005401c7d880$04af7690$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a> References: <46B7AAB7.3060609@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <46B7CFFD.9925.1D374DA2@localhost> On 6 Aug 2007 at 19:17, Blake J. Discher wrote: > Very cool. Browse the catalog: http://tinyurl.com/2hv9pz Whooooee! Car? What car? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.6/938 - Release Date: 8/5/2007 4:16 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 00:03:45 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 23:03:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Noisy tach Message-ID: <1558356.1186466625174.JavaMail.root@web25> > I'm in the shake down phase of my restoration, and have found the tach to > make the most noise of all. It is pretty constant, but is a bit > intermittent. Any suggestions as to how to make it quiet down?? If it's really the tach, IMO the only cure is to replace it or have it rebuilt. It should make no noise at all; but things start rubbing when the bushing wears out. However, one thing to try is loosening the cable a bit on the back of the instrument. I've heard reports of new cables being too long and putting pressure on the inner workings. > Also, does the ammeter ever sit at zero? Mine always reads pretty high on > the + side - new battery, the largest I could fit in the plastic battery > box! The original regulator is a bit crude; when properly adjusted it will allow a small charge all the time with the headlights, etc. off; and a small discharge all the time when they are on. However, if you are still seeing a large charge after driving long enough to fully charge the battery (which can easily be 5-6 hours for a big battery that was heavily discharged to begin with), then there may be a problem with the regulator. Best way to be sure IMO is to put a voltmeter across the battery; if you find more than 14.4 volts with the engine at fast idle, then there is a problem. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Tue Aug 7 04:48:43 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 06:48:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Kansas City All British Car and Cycle Show Message-ID: I might take a train, I might take plane, but if I have to walk I'm going to get there just the same. (inspired by Randall) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 7 05:37:12 2007 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 04:37:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Kansas City All British Car and Cycle Show In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <953846.39084.qm@web81412.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Is it going to be held at 12th and vine? John Young --- DLylis at aol.com wrote: > I might take a train, I might take plane, but if I > have to walk I'm going to > get there just the same. > > (inspired by Randall) > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Aug 7 07:01:02 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 09:01:02 EDT Subject: [TR] Another Triumph in advertising Message-ID: In a message dated 8/6/2007 4:11:46 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, supertr6 at earthlink.net writes: Turns out it is a TR6 Joe & List, Maybe this is old news depending on where you live but, here in southeastern PA, we've been seeing a short TV commercial for a car insurance company called "21st century" which features a guy in a strangely modified early red TR6 driving up to a kiosk window. I couldn't find any of the video or their website. Maybe it's someone on the List's car??? Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Aug 7 07:05:13 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 09:05:13 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising Message-ID: In a message dated 8/6/2007 4:40:10 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes: The T/R looks a lot like a VTR/list member from that area, come-on Bob is that your car !!!!!!! Hey Fred....how can we get our cars in one of these shoots....heck, I'll lend them my car for free just to be on the set while they're filming:) Oh boy, this is going to start a great "you men are all alike" thread...ha, ha, ha Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org Tue Aug 7 07:28:22 2007 From: tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org (Terry Geiger) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 08:28:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: TR6 with SU's - vapor lock?? References: <000701c7d893$77edbe10$284d3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <004601c7d8f6$dd35bf30$041e14ac@aitinc.local> What fuel pump are you running? It sounds like a stuck float valve in the rear carb or high fuel pressure. High fuel pressure will push the float valve open, overfilling the carb. I run an electric pump with a fuel pressure regulator set to 2.5 lbs on my SU setup on my TR6. Also, the fuel line is on top of the intake manifold, away from the exhaust. I also run a heat shield (provided by Joe Alexander) to help keep things cool. As a test, you could wrap the fuel line in some reflective heat insulation and see if that helps. Terry Geiger '74 Triumph TR6 | '63 Triumph Herald | '70 MGBGT | '84 Mercedes 300D Diesel http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/ > From: John Krause [mailto:jktr250 at gmail.com] > Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 5:52 PM > To: Scott Suhring > Subject: TR6 > > > > I have installed the Moss HS6 SU conversion in my 1970 TR6. I can start > the > car, but when it gets hot, the car stalls and cannot be started until it > cools. When the car begins to stall, the rear SU blows fuel out of the > vent > tube. I have all metal plumbing from the fuel pump to the front of the > carbs ... the fuel line splits below the front carb and then feeds both > float bowls. The problem appears to be vapor lock, but does anyone have > any > thoughts as to why this is happening? Could the metal fuel lines have > anything to do with it? Would a heat shield cure this problem? > _______________________________________________ From twakeman at razzolink.com Tue Aug 7 07:34:16 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 06:34:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46B874D8.1020102@razzolink.com> Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: > Oh boy, > this is going to start a great "you men are all alike" thread...ha, ha, ha Not from me. I just looked at the outfits and wistfully thought it would be nice to be young and skinny again. As a woman ages she becomes invisible. You know you are past "it" when the guys look at your car and not you. sigh TeriAnn From mrm at clking.com Tue Aug 7 08:00:21 2007 From: mrm at clking.com (Mitch R. Meisler) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:00:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: TR6 with SU's - vapor lock?? In-Reply-To: <004601c7d8f6$dd35bf30$041e14ac@aitinc.local> References: <000701c7d893$77edbe10$284d3b47@Scott> <004601c7d8f6$dd35bf30$041e14ac@aitinc.local> Message-ID: <30E72F324648024B956BC3B3C1CF9B24010C453F@clking01exc02.clkingw2k.local> I had the exact same thing happen to my tr4a which had zs carbs. It turned out that I had swapped on K&N filters, and the chrome backers blocked two breather holes (one each carb) for the float, and caused the flooding and starting issues once the car got warm. May not be the case with yours, but if you switched filters, make sure that all holes are open. Drilling out the two holes (jeff playa at paltech figured out/corrected the issue) solved it. Mitch Meisler Managing Director, Institutional Sales CL King & Associates 410 Park Avenue, 16th floor New York, NY 10022 212-572-3633-work 518-528-2263-cell AOL IM = MEISLERCLKA E-MAIL = mrm at clking.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mrm=clking.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Terry Geiger Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 9:28 AM To: Scott Suhring; Triumph Mail List Subject: Re: [TR] FW: TR6 with SU's - vapor lock?? What fuel pump are you running? It sounds like a stuck float valve in the rear carb or high fuel pressure. High fuel pressure will push the float valve open, overfilling the carb. I run an electric pump with a fuel pressure regulator set to 2.5 lbs on my SU setup on my TR6. Also, the fuel line is on top of the intake manifold, away from the exhaust. I also run a heat shield (provided by Joe Alexander) to help keep things cool. As a test, you could wrap the fuel line in some reflective heat insulation and see if that helps. Terry Geiger '74 Triumph TR6 | '63 Triumph Herald | '70 MGBGT | '84 Mercedes 300D Diesel http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/ > From: John Krause [mailto:jktr250 at gmail.com] > Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 5:52 PM > To: Scott Suhring > Subject: TR6 > > > > I have installed the Moss HS6 SU conversion in my 1970 TR6. I can > start the car, but when it gets hot, the car stalls and cannot be > started until it cools. When the car begins to stall, the rear SU > blows fuel out of the vent tube. I have all metal plumbing from the > fuel pump to the front of the carbs ... the fuel line splits below the > front carb and then feeds both float bowls. The problem appears to be > vapor lock, but does anyone have any thoughts as to why this is > happening? Could the metal fuel lines have > anything to do with it? Would a heat shield cure this problem? > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ mrm at clking.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________ From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Aug 7 10:49:46 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 12:49:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising Message-ID: <20070807124946.ACF73533@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > As a woman ages she becomes invisible. If you don't mind, I will resepctifully disagree! Only a shallow young male would fail to recognize the special beauty a woman gains as she ages. -- Jim Muller shutting up now lest he alienate everyone else along with those shallow young males From triumph at lincsat.com Tue Aug 7 10:54:27 2007 From: triumph at lincsat.com (Mike Graham) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 12:54:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint Code for Primrose Message-ID: <200708071654.l77GsFMS005356@smtp1.xplornet.com> I'm in the midst of a restoring a 56 TR3 and although its still some time from getting to the paint stage, I'm thinking that I'd like to go with Primrose with a black interior. Does anyone have the paint code(s) for this colour that I can take to the paint shop when the time arrives? Any help much appreciated. Cheers, Mike ************************* Mike Graham Ottawa Valley Triumph Club 73 TR6, 71 GT6, 56 TR3 613-258-2901 From spitlist at cox.net Tue Aug 7 11:14:18 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:14:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Paint Code for Primrose References: <200708071654.l77GsFMS005356@smtp1.xplornet.com> Message-ID: <004801c7d916$63d415e0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> PPG Mix code 81168 Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Graham" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 9:54 AM Subject: [TR] Paint Code for Primrose > I'm in the midst of a restoring a 56 TR3 and although its still some > time from getting to the paint stage, I'm thinking that I'd like to > go with Primrose with a black interior. Does anyone have the paint > code(s) for this colour that I can take to the paint shop when the > time arrives? > > Any help much appreciated. > > Cheers, Mike > > ************************* > Mike Graham > Ottawa Valley Triumph Club > 73 TR6, 71 GT6, 56 TR3 > 613-258-2901 > _______________________________________________ > spitlist at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From rickandcecilia at comcast.net Tue Aug 7 11:07:25 2007 From: rickandcecilia at comcast.net (Rick & Cecilia) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 13:07:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising References: <20070807124946.ACF73533@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <03c401c7d915$6e09dff0$6cc1a8c0@IBMT42> I totally agree. My bride is over 50 and I would compare her beauty to anyone and she would come out the winner! Ok, Ok, and she let's me work on the cars as well. ;) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Triumph list" Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 12:49 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising > TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: >> As a woman ages she becomes invisible. > > If you don't mind, I will resepctifully disagree! Only a shallow young > male would fail to recognize the special beauty a woman gains as she ages. > -- > Jim Muller > shutting up now lest he alienate everyone else along with those shallow > young males > _______________________________________________ > rickandcecilia at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.8/940 - Release Date: 8/6/2007 > 4:53 PM From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Aug 7 10:59:51 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 12:59:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint Code for Primrose In-Reply-To: <200708071654.l77GsFMS005356@smtp1.xplornet.com> References: <200708071654.l77GsFMS005356@smtp1.xplornet.com> Message-ID: <200708071259.51956.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 07 August 2007 12:54 pm, Mike Graham wrote: > I'm in the midst of a restoring a 56 TR3 and although its still some > time from getting to the paint stage, I'm thinking that I'd like to > go with Primrose with a black interior. Does anyone have the paint > code(s) for this colour that I can take to the paint shop when the > time arrives? > > Any help much appreciated. > > Cheers, Mike > Mike, When I painted my 58, I could not locate a supplier for the old code. However a local PPG outlet was able to come up with something very similar in the PPG DCC blend. It is called midnight yellow and it originates from a Mazda. Not sure what year. I still have the mix formula if you would like. I could also supply you with a photo of the car. I really like the color! It is a true pale yellow. Bob From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Aug 7 11:46:52 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 13:46:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising Message-ID: In a message dated 8/7/2007 11:50:45 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > As a woman ages she becomes invisible. If you don't mind, I will resepctifully disagree! Only a shallow young male would fail to recognize the special beauty a woman gains as she ages. ditto my wife gets better looking (to me) every year. and a female Triumph enthusiast of any age is a beautiful creature. Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 11:49:27 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:49:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear shock conversion In-Reply-To: <00bc01c7d8b2$a528eed0$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> References: <00bc01c7d8b2$a528eed0$0201a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <007b01c7d91b$4c4604b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > There shouldn't be any > more stress on the supporting cross member that held the > Armstrong levers after installing the conversions. Brian, I can't really help with your question; but physics says the above statement isn't quite true. The tube shock conversions always have the shock farther from the mount than the link for the lever shock was. So even if the force transmitted from the suspension is the same, it has a longer lever arm to the mount, meaning more force at the mount. Plus, most people do the tube shock thing so they can run stiffer shocks, which means that for any given bump/speed, there will be more force transmitted from the suspension. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 11:51:56 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:51:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] liner?, beading? In-Reply-To: <003101c7d89a$44fd1b70$c50360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <003101c7d89a$44fd1b70$c50360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <007c01c7d91b$a56a4ce0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Another question: I've heard that rubber fender beading > might help reduce > fender squeaking. Did I make that up or is it the truth? I guess it might help if they squeaked, but mine don't. The hood/bonnet does, but that's a different story. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 11:54:26 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:54:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Question on new List Server In-Reply-To: <001101c7d894$64e076e0$284d3b47@Scott> References: <001101c7d894$64e076e0$284d3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <007d01c7d91b$fed1dfa0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > 2. When I want to reply to just the person who posted the > message to > the list, it seems to default to the entire list. How do you > get around > this? When it happens, you can copy the person's address from the original post and paste it into your reply. However, MJB has fixed the problem now, so you should only see this on old posts. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Tue Aug 7 12:46:40 2007 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 14:46:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Poorly fitting TR3A top Message-ID: <46b8be10.2b.6fb4.13611@cogeco.ca> My TR3As top seems well constructed (straight seams, straight row of solid snaps) but was poorly fit by the previous owner. There are no manufacturor's markings inside and so before spending time and money trying to get it adjusted Id like to confirm its the right top for a late 3A (TS64989), it looks like it has the correct number of windows (3) but: Are there any measurements I can get to confirm which sub-model its for (distance between seams, size of windows etc.)? Moss lists several tops throughout the TR2-3 series but only one set of roof sticks (frame assembly) is that correct? Somewhere I had a set of dimensions for the roof sticks but my email archive got fried. Does anybody know where I could find them again? (Distance between sticks, length of webbing, height when up, etc). I have lots of headroom now, that's probably a sign it's wrong ;) And 3rdly, I know I asked this before but: the bracket that holds the sticks to the body, mine is positioned so the pin attaching the sticks is toward the front, somebody told me thats wrong so I tried swapping it around but then the sticks wont fold properly. That could be because theyre not shaped correctly and need bending or it could be because the pin is really supposed to be toward the front. Thanks listers, Art. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Aug 7 13:34:31 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 12:34:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Poorly fitting TR3A top In-Reply-To: <46b8be10.2b.6fb4.13611@cogeco.ca> References: <46b8be10.2b.6fb4.13611@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <06D2494466DA4292BF062D532CDBCAB7@GeoPC> Here's the instructions that cam with my Amco top... about 30 years old but perhaps useful: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/top-webbing.GIF Also, on mine the pin is forward. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: [TR] Poorly fitting TR3A top > Somewhere I had a set of dimensions for the roof sticks but my email > archive > got fried. Does anybody know where I could > find them again? From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Aug 7 13:43:12 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 13:43:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <46B874D8.1020102@razzolink.com> References: <46B874D8.1020102@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <46B8CB50.8090201@tscusa.org> TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > Not from me. I just looked at the outfits and wistfully thought it > would be nice to be young and skinny again. As a woman ages she becomes > invisible. You know you are past "it" when the guys look at your car > and not you. > > sigh > Or TeriAnn, it is like when the 20 something girls come swooning over my car until they see the graying mustached pot bellied driver, then say something like "Hey Mister, love the car ... get out of it!!!". I just smile, chuckle and mutter under my breath "your time will come" chuckle, chuckle as I speed off. The envy is theirs. Nope, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a "mature" woman's charms, shape OR experience! WoooHAAAAaaah!! You do not see skinny scantily clad chickies in Michael Angelo's paintings do you? Just remember that in all those original publicity photos of Triumphs and manufacturer car shows in the 60's -70's, well, that was us! We created the look, the following generations just copy what we pioneered. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Aug 7 13:49:39 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 13:49:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] Kansas City All British Car and Cycle Show In-Reply-To: <583746.79387.qm@web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <583746.79387.qm@web81713.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <46B8CCD3.3040806@tscusa.org> I would love to go but the thought of driving across Kansas for a one day show or twice in one summer is not real appealing to me. We were through Kansas City and across Kansas twice already in July. KURT JOHNSON wrote: > Anyone here going to Kansas City? > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From mark at nashvilletn.org Tue Aug 7 14:00:41 2007 From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 15:00:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] HS6 Carb Differences Message-ID: <003001c7d92d$a2aeaa20$8500a8c0@CT> I have two sets of SU HS6's that are different. One set has a 2 bolt flange on the intake side and the other set has a 3 bolt flange on intake side. The manifold sides both have the same 4 bolt pattern. The choke levers are different but similar in operation. The pair with the 2 bolt flange are installed on my 4A, any idea what the application for the other set with the 3 bolt intake flange are used with? It looks to me like the spare pair would bolt on and work fine, with the right needle. Mark Nashville http://www.ArrestMeRed.com From tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org Tue Aug 7 14:07:07 2007 From: tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org (Terry Geiger) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 15:07:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] HS6 Carb Differences References: <003001c7d92d$a2aeaa20$8500a8c0@CT> Message-ID: <002201c7d92e$8841b8c0$041e14ac@aitinc.local> The HS6's on my TR6 have the three bolt pattern on the air filter side. They are ex-Volvo carbs that have correctly sized needles for the 2.5 liter engine in the TR6. Originally they would have been fitted to a B18 (1.8 liter) or B20 (2 liter) Volvo engine. Terry Geiger '74 Triumph TR6 | '63 Triumph Herald | '70 MGBGT | '84 Mercedes 300D Diesel http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 3:00 PM Subject: [TR] HS6 Carb Differences >I have two sets of SU HS6's that are different. One set has a 2 bolt >flange > on the intake side and the other set has a 3 bolt flange on intake side. > The manifold sides both have the same 4 bolt pattern. The choke levers > are > different but similar in operation. The pair with the 2 bolt flange are > installed on my 4A, any idea what the application for the other set with > the > 3 bolt intake flange are used with? It looks to me like the spare pair > would bolt on and work fine, with the right needle. > > Mark > Nashville > http://www.ArrestMeRed.com > _______________________________________________ > tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From brianjone5 at mac.com Tue Aug 7 14:08:52 2007 From: brianjone5 at mac.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 16:08:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph, and the allure of older women Message-ID: <01C7C097-65D8-4CE1-A1D5-AED5DCA30902@mac.com> TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > As a woman ages she becomes invisible. > If you don't mind, I will respectfully disagree! Only a shallow young male would fail to recognize the special beauty a woman gains as she ages. -- Jim Muller Actually, I think you are both wrong. Younger men have always had a 'thing' for older women. Think of 'The Graduate'. Think of that young female teacher you were lucky to have...or should I say, be taught by...at school. No: there are some middle-aged men who become shallow and forget how to recognize 'the special beauty a woman gains as she ages', and up-sticks in search of something that looks like the non- TR6 items in that catalogue. Brian Jones From supertr6 at earthlink.net Tue Aug 7 14:35:45 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 16:35:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <20070807124946.ACF73533@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20070807124946.ACF73533@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <46B8D7A1.4090903@earthlink.net> Nice one Jim! jimmuller at rcn.com wrote: > TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > >> As a woman ages she becomes invisible. >> > > If you don't mind, I will resepctifully disagree! Only a shallow young male would fail to recognize the special beauty a woman gains as she ages. > -- > Jim Muller > shutting up now lest he alienate everyone else along with those shallow young males > _______________________________________________ > supertr6 at earthlink.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 15:23:38 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 14:23:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] HS6 Carb Differences In-Reply-To: <003001c7d92d$a2aeaa20$8500a8c0@CT> References: <003001c7d92d$a2aeaa20$8500a8c0@CT> Message-ID: <00d401c7d939$3811c380$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I have two sets of SU HS6's that are different. One set has > a 2 bolt flange > on the intake side and the other set has a 3 bolt flange on > intake side. I have a set of replacement HS6 carbs sold for TR4A (I believe), that have the 3-bolt intake pattern. Originals were 2-bolt, though. As noted some Volvos had 3-bolt while earlier cars also had 2-bolt. Best bet to discover the original application is to find the carb ID tag, and compare it to Burlen's web site. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From dorpaul at negia.net Tue Aug 7 15:55:12 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 17:55:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] bb liner fills up? Message-ID: <001b01c7d93d$a327b770$1e0260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I haven't yet ordered a new battery-box liner from TRF or Moss. I wonder if their even worthwhile without a hole in them? (Does one need to scoop rainwater out of their bb because it lacks a hole in it?) I also wonder if their from the same manufacturer or is there a difference between Moss and TRF's? I've measured it and my battery-box is both an inch longer and almost an inch wider than the liner's dimensions given in the catalog, does that mean it won't fit right? Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Aug 7 16:03:40 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 18:03:40 EDT Subject: [TR] bb liner fills up? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/7/2007 2:56:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, dorpaul at negia.net writes: I haven't yet ordered a new battery-box liner from TRF or Moss. I wonder if their even worthwhile without a hole in them? (Does one need to scoop rainwater out of their bb because it lacks a hole in it?) I also wonder if their from the same manufacturer or is there a difference between Moss and TRF's? I've measured it and my battery-box is both an inch longer and almost an inch wider than the liner's dimensions given in the catalog, does that mean it won't fit right? Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 I haven't yet ordered a new battery-box liner from TRF or Moss. I wonder if their even worthwhile without a hole in them? I bought a new one from TRF years ago. I think it was to replace an earlier one. Neither one had a drain hole in them. I never saw a drain hole in one. I didn't put a drain hole in mine and it hasn't been a problem, probably because I don't drive in a lot of rain. I have seen a smal amount of water inthere before, usually when I wash the engine. The battery box is pretty well protected from rain ingress by the scuttle.I do have a clear drain from the battery box ( the one welded into the car) and I make sure that drains freey. I have my inner liner sitting on some thin pieces of fiberglass strip so if water does get between the liner and the body it can drain. It was likely a waste of time though. (Does one need to scoop rainwater out of their bb because it lacks a hole in it?) I have used a rag before to wipe it out-but that's usually when i removed the battery for a general cleanup. I also wonder if their from the same manufacturer or is there a difference between Moss and TRF's? Dunno. probably either one is fine. I've measured it and my battery-box is both an inch longer and almost an inch wider than the liner's dimensions given in the catalog, does that mean it won't fit right? It seems to me like it insures it will fit! Best regards, Mike Moore Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From steven at newellboys.com Tue Aug 7 16:04:18 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 15:04:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <46B8CB50.8090201@tscusa.org> References: <46B874D8.1020102@razzolink.com> <46B8CB50.8090201@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <46B8EC62.3000102@newellboys.com> Glenn A. Merrell wrote: >it is like when the 20 something girls come swooning over my car until >they see the graying mustached pot bellied driver, then say something >like "Hey Mister, love the car ... get out of it!!!". I just smile... > Glenn, I think it's the mustache. :) Me, I'm clean shaven, and I'm constantly stopping to remove scantily clad chickies who've jumped into my TR4 at stoplights and crosswalks. I'm pretty sure that's why my TR4 lists to the right a bit, from all the girls jumping in that side. Steven From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Aug 7 16:31:05 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 18:31:05 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising Message-ID: OK, Since we are all getting out of hand here, I can envision being interviewed whilst sitting in my TR3B in Times Square by none other than Diane Sawyer of Good Morning America. Think about that one guys! Not bad huh? I wonder if she would like to go for a ride? Forgive Me, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 16:53:25 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 15:53:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] bb liner fills up? In-Reply-To: <001b01c7d93d$a327b770$1e0260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001b01c7d93d$a327b770$1e0260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <000c01c7d945$c336ae60$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I haven't yet ordered a new battery-box liner from TRF or > Moss. I wonder if > their even worthwhile without a hole in them? I don't see the hole as a requirement. Whether the box is worthwhile or not is a separate question; my previous TR3A had one when I got it and it seemed to work out very well for me. The "now wrecked" 3A doesn't, and I've had to attend to corrosion in the battery box several times. That said, if I were going to modify one today I would probably line the original box with fiberglass & epoxy (which is also more acid resistant than steel) and forego the liner. > (Does one need to scoop > rainwater out of their bb because it lacks a hole in it?) I never did, although there were sometimes traces of moisture under the battery when I had it out for other reasons. Since both the battery and the liner were totally water-proof, the water did no harm. > I also wonder if > their from the same manufacturer or is there a difference > between Moss and > TRF's? Sorry, no idea. I would guess they are the same, but I don't know. > I've measured it and my battery-box is both an inch longer > and almost an > inch wider than the liner's dimensions given in the catalog, > does that mean it > won't fit right? I believe that actually means it fits right. I'd guess the dimension given is the inside dimension, and the liner is effectively about 1/2" thick (with the reinforcing ribs). At any rate, the one I had fit snugly except for where the original metal was missing or bent. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Aug 7 17:24:22 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 17:24:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <46B8EC62.3000102@newellboys.com> References: <46B874D8.1020102@razzolink.com> <46B8CB50.8090201@tscusa.org> <46B8EC62.3000102@newellboys.com> Message-ID: <46B8FF26.1080701@tscusa.org> Steven Newell wrote: > Glenn, I think it's the mustache. :) Me, I'm clean shaven, and I'm > constantly stopping to remove scantily clad chickies who've jumped into > my TR4 at stoplights and crosswalks. I'm pretty sure that's why my TR4 > lists to the right a bit, from all the girls jumping in that side. > > Steven I once had 6 of them in my 1200 Herald Sport convertible while I was driving around one summer - had the mustache then --- so I know it wasn't the 'stache or the car :) But then again, a Herald Sport convertible is kind of sexy ... -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Aug 7 17:27:34 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 19:27:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] SEVTR References: <000001c7d8a0$c15923c0$e9a0b946@ronniej94vilm0> Message-ID: <001901c7d94a$8b8c8d40$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> We're registered and looking forward to it. I recommend it to all -- Jekyll Island is quiet and a wonderful place in the fall. Temperatures should be good and we always have a good time Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ronnie Babbitt" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 11:12 PM Subject: [TR] SEVTR > Guys the Southeastern VTR is just around the corner the online > registration > is now functional, this years featured cars are the Herald and Vitesse > models. Our theme is to raise a little HAVOC on the Beach, HAVOC= Herald > and Vitesse Owners Convergence The event will take place on Jekyll Island > Georgia, OCT 18th -20th 2007 From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Aug 7 17:30:22 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 17:30:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46B9008E.4080805@tscusa.org> TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > OK, > Since we are all getting out of hand here, I can envision being interviewed > whilst sitting in my TR3B in Times Square by none other than Diane Sawyer of > Good Morning America. Think about that one guys! Not bad huh? I wonder if > she would like to go for a ride? > Forgive Me, > Darrell > Does Bev know about this secret infatuation? -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From DLylis at aol.com Tue Aug 7 17:36:34 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 19:36:34 EDT Subject: [TR] SEVTR Message-ID: I am going as well, reservations made and all! Tampa Bay British Car Club will be there as we have the best job in the conference. Do we set up the autocross? NO Do we run the Funkhana? NO Do we judge the concourse? NO We run the hospitality room and GIVE AWAY BEER! I am sure I will see all of you! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Aug 7 17:40:58 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 19:40:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] SEVTR References: <000001c7d8a0$c15923c0$e9a0b946@ronniej94vilm0> <001901c7d94a$8b8c8d40$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <000c01c7d94c$681ea850$aa0b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> My reservations have been made for almost a year now, great time, fine people, fine food and "she" is going this year, :) :) "FT" > We're registered and looking forward to it. I recommend it to all -- > Jekyll > Island is quiet and a wonderful place in the fall. Temperatures should be > good and we always have a good time > Tom > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 73 Stag > >> Guys the Southeastern VTR is just around the corner the online >> registration >> is now functional, this years featured cars are the Herald and Vitesse >> models. Our theme is to raise a little HAVOC on the Beach, HAVOC= Herald >> and Vitesse Owners Convergence The event will take place on Jekyll >> Island >> Georgia, OCT 18th -20th 2007 From emanteno at comcast.net Tue Aug 7 17:43:18 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 23:43:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] HS6 Carb Differences Message-ID: <080720072343.15601.46B90396000429C800003CF12213484373970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Mark" > I have two sets of SU HS6's that are different. One set has a 2 bolt flange > on the intake side and the other set has a 3 bolt flange on intake side. > The manifold sides both have the same 4 bolt pattern. The choke levers are > different but similar in operation. The pair with the 2 bolt flange are > installed on my 4A, any idea what the application for the other set with the > 3 bolt intake flange are used with? It looks to me like the spare pair > would bolt on and work fine, with the right needle. Some MGB's used HS6's as well, so maybe that is what they are from. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From mathews at uga.edu Tue Aug 7 17:52:41 2007 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 19:52:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] SEVTR--Dinner Spot Message-ID: <20070807235302.B3A321879EB@autox.team.net> Who knows if I'll make it to Jekyll and VTR but I get down that way a few times a year. I know a great spot in Brunswick for dinner if it fits anyone's schedule. Send me an email and I'll point you to it. Doug 1963 TR3B-TCF1520L 1964 TR4 - 1991 Nissan PU From supertr6 at earthlink.net Tue Aug 7 18:32:42 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 20:32:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <46B8FF26.1080701@tscusa.org> References: <46B874D8.1020102@razzolink.com> <46B8CB50.8090201@tscusa.org> <46B8EC62.3000102@newellboys.com> <46B8FF26.1080701@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <46B90F2A.7000601@earthlink.net> 6?!?! Where did you fit all of them?! Glenn A. Merrell wrote: > Steven Newell wrote: > >> Glenn, I think it's the mustache. :) Me, I'm clean shaven, and I'm >> constantly stopping to remove scantily clad chickies who've jumped into >> my TR4 at stoplights and crosswalks. I'm pretty sure that's why my TR4 >> lists to the right a bit, from all the girls jumping in that side. >> >> Steven >> > I once had 6 of them in my 1200 Herald Sport convertible while I was > driving around one summer - had the mustache then --- so I know it > wasn't the 'stache or the car :) But then again, a Herald Sport > convertible is kind of sexy ... From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Aug 7 18:36:56 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 20:36:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <46B874D8.1020102@razzolink.com> References: <46B874D8.1020102@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <8C9A76B5B8ED865-9F8-3D64@mblk-d27.sysops.aol.com> Teriann, I sure can relate.? The guys who look at my car arent looking at me either, thankfully.? Then again, neither are the women.? When I bought the car my female co-workers teased me that I had bought a "chick magnet", to which I agreed.? Unfortunately for me, the polarity is reversed.? My car only seems to repel women. double sigh, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: TeriAnn Wakeman To: Triumph list Sent: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 9:34 am Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: > Oh boy, > this is going to start a great "you men are all alike" thread...ha, ha, ha Not from me. I just looked at the outfits and wistfully thought it would be nice to be young and skinny again. As a woman ages she becomes invisible. You know you are past "it" when the guys look at your car and not you. sigh TeriAnn ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Aug 7 18:49:01 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 20:49:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] bb liner fills up? In-Reply-To: <001b01c7d93d$a327b770$1e0260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001b01c7d93d$a327b770$1e0260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8C9A76D0BC17ED3-9F8-3DEF@mblk-d27.sysops.aol.com> Paul, For me the important purpose of the battery box was to hold IN battery acid if the battery should leak, sparing my paint finish from ruin.? If you have water in your battery box your problem is the seal on your hood, not the battery box.? My two cents would be to buy one that is intact, and leave it that way and hope that it collects neither battery acid or rain. Cheers, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Paul Dorsey To: list Triumph Sent: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 5:55 pm Subject: [TR] bb liner fills up? I haven't yet ordered a new battery-box liner from TRF or Moss. I wonder if their even worthwhile without a hole in them? (Does one need to scoop rainwater out of their bb because it lacks a hole in it?) I also wonder if their from the same manufacturer or is there a difference between Moss and TRF's? I've measured it and my battery-box is both an inch longer and almost an inch wider than the liner's dimensions given in the catalog, does that mean it won't fit right? Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From brianjone5 at mac.com Tue Aug 7 18:59:21 2007 From: brianjone5 at mac.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 20:59:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph, and the allure of older women In-Reply-To: <00d001c7d937$d39a9360$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: <01C7C097-65D8-4CE1-A1D5-AED5DCA30902@mac.com> <00d001c7d937$d39a9360$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <0026C6D6-CAA4-43F1-853B-75556D5B51FD@mac.com> Its far from a bad example Randall, LOL, it's every schoolboys' dream: being seduced by an older woman. It didn't come true for me as youth, so maybe I compensated by marrying an 'older woman' instead. 24 years later, and she's lovelier by the year. Brian On Aug 7, 2007, at 5:13 PM, Randall wrote: > > >> Younger men have always had a >> 'thing' for older women. Think of 'The Graduate'. > > Bad example ... Mrs Robinson seduced Dustin Hoffman, not the other way > around. > > Randall - who prefers women roughly his own age. > (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) > > > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted > with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, > Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use > of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be > maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without > the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended > recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic > mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received > this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, > forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is > strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in > error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Aug 7 20:31:25 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 22:31:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <8C9A76B5B8ED865-9F8-3D64@mblk-d27.sysops.aol.com> References: <46B874D8.1020102@razzolink.com> <8C9A76B5B8ED865-9F8-3D64@mblk-d27.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <001d01c7d964$3b2f2190$210110ac@bobspc> Aaron.....NOT TRUE! My car attracts all the females.... Unfortunately they're all about as tall as my car and as old as my granddaughter! The pre-puberty crowd LOVES our cars. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of acekraut11 at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 8:37 PM To: twakeman at razzolink.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising Teriann, I sure can relate.? The guys who look at my car arent looking at me either, thankfully.? Then again, neither are the women.? When I bought the car my female co-workers teased me that I had bought a "chick magnet", to which I agreed.? Unfortunately for me, the polarity is reversed.? My car only seems to repel women. double sigh, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: TeriAnn Wakeman To: Triumph list Sent: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 9:34 am Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: > Oh boy, > this is going to start a great "you men are all alike" thread...ha, > ha, ha Not from me. I just looked at the outfits and wistfully thought it would be nice to be young and skinny again. As a woman ages she becomes invisible. You know you are past "it" when the guys look at your car and not you. sigh TeriAnn ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.8/940 - Release Date: 8/6/2007 4:53 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.8/940 - Release Date: 8/6/2007 4:53 PM From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Aug 7 21:31:01 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 23:31:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Model A Message-ID: <004101c7d96c$8b6536b0$aa0b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> The list member that is restoring a Ford Model A and is awaiting a DVD from me please contact me, I lost my file on this, very sorry to be posting to the list, but please remember I'm a old-aged ugly male and aging very fast. :) :) :) "FT" From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 7 21:46:00 2007 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 20:46:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A owners, ONLY, HELP! Message-ID: <42479.62171.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List! About 2 weeks ago I made a post to this list & only received 1 reply. I feel that many people did not see it or feel it necessary to reply. Well, I'm going to ask the question again, because i do feel that it is important & hope to get a better response. I'm doing a survey for TR4A owners with SH6 SU Carburetors with the center down pull linkages, ONLY! I would like you people to go out to your TR's & measure (to the nearest 1/16 th of an inch) the length [from END to END] of: 1- LONG (horizontal) Link Rod Ass'y 2- Short (vertical) Link Rod Ass'y Remember that the Short (vertical) Link Rod Ass'y is to cross under the Throttle Connecting Rod to the Bellcrank. THANK YOU, for your time & effort in sending me your measurements. -Cosmo Kramer --------------------------------- Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Aug 7 22:34:07 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 22:34:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <46B90F2A.7000601@earthlink.net> References: <46B874D8.1020102@razzolink.com> <46B8CB50.8090201@tscusa.org> <46B8EC62.3000102@newellboys.com> <46B8FF26.1080701@tscusa.org> <46B90F2A.7000601@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <46B947BF.8030901@tscusa.org> Joe Burlein wrote: > 6?!?! Where did you fit all of them?! It was not a VW Bug type of thing, but it was top down, 4 in the back - 2 seated - 2 on the tonneau, 2 in the front with me, one straddling the shifter - WooooHAAAAaaah. That was a memorable highlight of my junior high school days. Seems to me that there was a photo floating around the yearbook committee of me leaving the High School parking lot completely loaded with babes on the way to Spec's drive in roller skate type burger joint in Collegeville PA. Fortunately it never made it into print thanks to our adviser. Later in my senior year around graduation I had 5 of them in my TR250 - 3 in the back with the top down on the tonneau, 2 in the front, again, one (the same one) straddling the shifter :> Nope, I did not marry her either ... Amazing the stuff we got away with as youth ... Revenge of the geeks! Okay, at Triumphest lets see how many Bond Girls I can load into the Stag!!! Line 'em up!! I promise to wear a tux. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From jercurry at comcast.net Tue Aug 7 23:20:18 2007 From: jercurry at comcast.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 23:20:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] electronic ignition TR3 Message-ID: <001301c7d97b$cfe080b0$0202fea9@screamer> Howdy all, I am going to install the electronic ignition available from Moss in my TR3 one of these days soon and was wondering if anyone had any tips or cautions. One of the first instructions is to mark the #1 cylinder wire on the distributor, how do I know which is 1? thanks, Jeremiah From mark at bradakis.com Tue Aug 7 23:24:28 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 23:24:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] electronic ignition TR3 In-Reply-To: <001301c7d97b$cfe080b0$0202fea9@screamer> References: <001301c7d97b$cfe080b0$0202fea9@screamer> Message-ID: <46B9538C.2030209@bradakis.com> The number one cylinder is the one closest to the front of the car. I'm guessing we won't see this car on the BMCU Alpine Loop trip this coming weekend. Well, in truth, I won't be seeing any cars on the run, I'll be back in the midwest for a couple of days, drat. mjb. From thomas309 at aol.com Wed Aug 8 01:43:03 2007 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 03:43:03 EDT Subject: [TR] For Sale...NFI Message-ID: _http://nwct.craigslist.org/car/391272579.html_ (http://nwct.craigslist.org/car/391272579.html) ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From spamiam at comcast.net Wed Aug 8 05:48:49 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2007 11:48:49 +0000 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <080820071148.26320.46B9ADA1000284DA000066D02207021633030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> >Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 22:20:18 -0700 >From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at adelphia.net> >Subject: [TR] Rear shock conversion >To: >Message-ID: <00bc01c7d8b2$a528eed0$0201a8c0 at Induninwlaptop> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Hello all, > > > >I'm concerned that I'm now reading about failures to rear shock conversions! >Can someone post pics of the conversion they used the resulting damage? >Also, how hard were you driving when they failed? There shouldn't be any >more stress on the supporting cross member that held the Armstrong levers >after installing the conversions. but then again, maybe ones driving habits >change? Details, man, details! > I think it is not so much that the mounting points are different, but that the bump stop is different. If it never bottoms out, then I adree that the stresses should be the same (for an equivalent amount of damping). But when you do bottom-out, the stop is different. I believe that with the tube shock conversion that the impact stresses are right on the shock mounts. I'd bet that this is the issue. -Tony From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Aug 8 08:36:02 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 07:36:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonnneau Follow-up Message-ID: For the curious & for the archives... here's the follow-up to my queries on fitting a TR3A tonneau with the 'slash' behind the seating area. In the end I fitted a quarter-inch grommet in the under-flap to hold it on the Lift-the-Dot peg: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Tonneau-A.JPG The grommet is thin enough to then snap the LTD of the upper portion over it: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Tonneau-B.JPG As you see, the grommet is brass w/o nickel plating, but it really doesn't show either when the toneau is in place or tucked away so I don't think that matters much. Thanks to all those who helped with pics & advice. Geo From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Wed Aug 8 09:56:44 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 08:56:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: Triumph makes a come back in advertising Message-ID: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840D1@mail1.sr.local> -----Original Message----- From: Paige, Dean Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 8:37 AM To: 'TeriAnn Wakeman' Subject: RE: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising Hey now! As a guy who appreciates pretty women of any age I must strongly disagree. Maybe it's just me but I have a goodly number of woman friends all of an age (45 TO 60... I hit the later in Oct.) who look absolutely gorgeous. All are fit, healthy, take care of themselves and dress to the nines as appropriate for the particular occasion whether riding a horse, cruising the wine country with the top down or an evening at a play, or a concert and dinner. Besides which, while I might look somewhat longingly at younger women from afar, (I am after all a man) I am most usually disappointed when speaking with the younger set. Vapid conversation and few points of common interest. I prefer the wisdom, sophistication, common cause and mature sensuality that comes with age. So there! Deano Not from me. I just looked at the outfits and wistfully thought it would be nice to be young and skinny again. As a woman ages she becomes invisible. You know you are past "it" when the guys look at your car and not you. sigh TeriAnn _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 8 10:02:34 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 9:02:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: Triumph makes a come back in advertising Message-ID: <18328823.1186588954581.JavaMail.root@web13> > Besides which, while I might look somewhat longingly at younger women > from afar, (I am after all a man) I am most usually disappointed when > speaking with the younger set. Vapid conversation and few points of > common interest. I prefer the wisdom, sophistication, common cause and > mature sensuality that comes with age. Well said, Deano ! Randall From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Aug 8 10:13:50 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 12:13:50 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising Message-ID: In a message dated 8/7/2007 9:50:52 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: Only a shallow young male would fail to recognize the special beauty a woman gains as she ages. Well said, Jim, well said! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From twakeman at razzolink.com Wed Aug 8 10:19:05 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2007 09:19:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46B9ECF9.1000508@razzolink.com> > If you don't mind, I will resepctifully disagree! Only a shallow young male > would fail to recognize the special beauty a woman gains as she ages. If only my observations agreed with your statement. Maybe I would not be offered the worst out of the way table in a restaurant (which I never accept) or go into a tavern for a glass of ale and maybe a bite to eat then leave afterwards without anyone other than my server saying a word to me. It seems that since I have gotten older & a bit more overweight the only time a guy wants to talk is when I'm in one of my two cars. And then he only wants to talk about my car. Didn't used to be like that when I was in my 20's and early 30's. Oh well, glad to hear you are all sensible gentlemen. TeriAnn From leejohn7 at gmail.com Wed Aug 8 10:35:11 2007 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 09:35:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Missing at high revs TR4A In-Reply-To: <040a01c7d847$f961ead0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: <986464.61289.qm@web27412.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> <040a01c7d847$f961ead0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: I'm sure you've done this, but my identical problem was finally corrected with a new fuel filter! This after months of doing everything else you can imagine. John Howard On 8/6/07, Randall wrote: > > > Now I am > > finding it seems to miss worse than before but improves > > greatly when I pull out the choke so seems it could be fuel > > after all. I disconnected the fuel line before the carbs and > > turned over the engine to find a strong flow from the fuel pump. > > I would take that as an indication that it's time to disassemble and clean > the carbs. > > However, it might be worth hooking up a gauge to check fuel pressure at > the > carbs, when the problem occurs; as sometimes there can be intermittent > problems with fuel delivery. Most vacuum test gauges will also read fuel > pressure, so just 'tee' the gauge into the line at the rear carb, lead the > line out from under the bonnet, and trap the gauge under a wiper blade > where > you can see it while driving. If you can still see a minimum of 1 psi (2 > is > spec as I recall), then fuel delivery is not the issue. > > Randall > (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) > > > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it > may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of > its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or > entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not > disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you > are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the > electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received > this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, > printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you > have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the > sender by return mail. > _______________________________________________ > leejohn7 at gmail.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu Wed Aug 8 12:19:15 2007 From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet) Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2007 11:19:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Monterey Historic Races Message-ID: <46BA0923.3070602@mrl.ucsb.edu> Hi, Folks, Is anyone going to the Monterey Historic races this year? http://www.montereyhistoric.com/ The featured cars are going to be Indy Roadsters. I hope to hear some Offy's gettin' spanked! I'll be taking my '62 TR4 up. It's white with a black factory hardtop sporting a triumphs at autox.team.net in the rear window. I'll be in the campground and hopefully so will my TR. I may take Hwy 1 through Big Sur on the way up from Santa Barbara just to add to the fun. I'll be on the road Aug. 17th. If you see us, please come up and introduce yourself. I'd love to put some faces with all the names. -jeffrey -- Jeffrey Barteet Materials Research Laboratory University of California Santa Barbara, 93106 From twakeman at razzolink.com Wed Aug 8 13:02:47 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2007 12:02:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Monterey Historic Races In-Reply-To: <46BA0923.3070602@mrl.ucsb.edu> References: <46BA0923.3070602@mrl.ucsb.edu> Message-ID: <46BA1357.1020502@razzolink.com> Jeffrey Barteet wrote: > Is anyone going to the Monterey Historic races this year? I plan to be there Thursday to watch the tech inspections. That's about as far as my budget allows as I'm saving up for gas money to drive to the PABFM. TeriAnn From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Wed Aug 8 13:44:14 2007 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2007 19:44:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] Monterey Historic Races Message-ID: <080820071944.17658.46BA1D0E0003FA66000044FA22007637049D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net> I'm planning on going this weekend, probably Sunday, for the pre-historics - same cars, no fees, less crowds. Bob -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: TeriAnn Wakeman > Jeffrey Barteet wrote: > > > Is anyone going to the Monterey Historic races this year? > > I plan to be there Thursday to watch the tech inspections. That's about > as far as my budget allows as I'm saving up for gas money to drive to > the PABFM. > > TeriAnn From L1J1S at aol.com Wed Aug 8 16:03:17 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 18:03:17 EDT Subject: [TR] prep. for rechroming Message-ID: hello, i am getting ready to have some pieces rechromed. what can i do to prep the pieces before i give them to the person for rechroming. bear in mind that there may be very slight surface pitting or very light lines in the metal. larry schwartz ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Aug 8 16:56:30 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 15:56:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] prep. for rechroming In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49AF673DDB854A1A8BD637BCF259947B@GeoPC> Ask them, but... when I have had this done their first step was to remove the old plating so I don't think those pits, etc are of any concern. Discuss with them any straightening required but again, this is probably something they do as a matter of course. If there are any small loose bits (clip on nuts, captive nuts, etc) you will want to remove them else risk their disappearing in the handling. I take pictures of everything so if something goes missing we all know what it is we're looking for. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 3:03 PM Subject: [TR] prep. for rechroming > hello, i am getting ready to have some pieces rechromed. what can i do to > prep the pieces before i give them to the person... From mark at nashvilletn.org Wed Aug 8 18:10:14 2007 From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 19:10:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: prep. for rechroming Message-ID: <00b201c7da19$a9843580$0600a8c0@Dell9200> Work Hard and Save your Money! Let the pros do it, there is a lot to the prep work that you just can't do at home. Catalog all that you take to them, I lay it all out and take pictures and give them a copy and you keep a copy. It is much easier for them to find it if they have pictures. If you are going to have any threaded items plated wrap the threads with electrical tape. The chrome shop will strip the chrome, probably plate with copper, fill the pits, plate with copper again and polish, then chrome it. Know your chromer....take them beer in the afternoons and donuts in the morning. Think pure thoughts. Mark Nashville http://www.arrestmered.com ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 5:03 PM Subject: [TR] prep. for rechroming hello, i am getting ready to have some pieces rechromed. what can i do to prep the pieces before i give them to the person for rechroming. bear in mind that there may be very slight surface pitting or very light lines in the metal. larry schwartz From supertr6 at earthlink.net Wed Aug 8 18:24:05 2007 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2007 20:24:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph makes a come back in advertising In-Reply-To: <46B947BF.8030901@tscusa.org> References: <46B874D8.1020102@razzolink.com> <46B8CB50.8090201@tscusa.org> <46B8EC62.3000102@newellboys.com> <46B8FF26.1080701@tscusa.org> <46B90F2A.7000601@earthlink.net> <46B947BF.8030901@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <46BA5EA5.9030207@earthlink.net> Glenn A. Merrell wrote: Sir, I salute you! > Joe Burlein wrote: >> 6?!?! Where did you fit all of them?! > It was not a VW Bug type of thing, but it was top down, 4 in the back > - 2 seated - 2 on the tonneau, 2 in the front with me, one straddling > the shifter - WooooHAAAAaaah. That was a memorable highlight of my > junior high school days. Seems to me that there was a photo floating > around the yearbook committee of me leaving the High School parking > lot completely loaded with babes on the way to Spec's drive in roller > skate type burger joint in Collegeville PA. Fortunately it never > made it into print thanks to our adviser. > > Later in my senior year around graduation I had 5 of them in my TR250 > - 3 in the back with the top down on the tonneau, 2 in the front, > again, one (the same one) straddling the shifter :> Nope, I did not > marry her either ... > > Amazing the stuff we got away with as youth ... > > Revenge of the geeks! > > Okay, at Triumphest lets see how many Bond Girls I can load into the > Stag!!! Line 'em up!! I promise to wear a tux. From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Thu Aug 9 08:55:22 2007 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 07:55:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: prep. for rechroming Message-ID: <31326F2924F6474AB899F2AB6A197910020840D6@mail1.sr.local> -----Original Message----- From: Paige, Dean Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 7:54 AM To: 'L1J1S at aol.com' Subject: RE: [TR] prep. for rechroming All the prep necessary is usually accomplished by the platers themselves. They are the experts. Deano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+dpaige=ci.santa-rosa.ca.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 3:03 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] prep. for rechroming hello, i am getting ready to have some pieces rechromed. what can i do to prep the pieces before i give them to the person for rechroming. bear in mind that there may be very slight surface pitting or very light lines in the metal. larry schwartz ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ dpaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From L1J1S at aol.com Thu Aug 9 16:44:43 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 18:44:43 EDT Subject: [TR] windshield Message-ID: hello, i have a good tr3-a windshield that needs to be rechromed. the question is do i have it rechromed or buy a new one? looking for feedback from all angles and possible leads and prices. larry schwartz ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 9 17:04:50 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 16:04:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] windshield In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002c01c7dad9$b0644c30$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > hello, i have a good tr3-a windshield that needs to be > rechromed. the > question is do i have it rechromed or buy a new one? Are they even available new ? There are at least 3 major variations, so the first question is which variant you have/want. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Aug 9 17:09:27 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 16:09:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] windshield In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think getting your windshield chromed would make it hard to see out of. Okay, seriously... are new ones (repros) available? Even if they are I would think a rechromed original would be a better choice. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 3:44 PM Subject: [TR] windshield > hello, i have a good tr3-a windshield that needs to be rechromed. the > question is do i have it rechromed or buy a new one? From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Aug 9 17:50:59 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 19:50:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] windshield In-Reply-To: <002c01c7dad9$b0644c30$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <000001c7dae0$237e2eb0$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> If anyone is interested, I have three sitting in my garage........ Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 7:05 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] windshield > hello, i have a good tr3-a windshield that needs to be > rechromed. the > question is do i have it rechromed or buy a new one? Are they even available new ? There are at least 3 major variations, so the first question is which variant you have/want. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Aug 9 18:49:32 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 20:49:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] 2500 Mile Update Message-ID: <000b01c7dae8$53c5d390$210110ac@bobspc> Back in the winter lots of you answered my endless questions about rebuilding the front end, installing solid steering rack mounts and a few others helped me with my TBI conversion. Well, since February, I've put over 2500 miles on the car from mostly around town driving, a number of short highway trips and a longish trip to VTR. With regard to the front end rebuild there was a wide variety of opinions on the use of Nylatron bushings and solid mounts for the steering rack with regard to squeaks, harshness and road feedback. I can tell you that I haven't heard a peep out of the Nylatron and the ride feel is fine. The poly bushings in the rear still squeak on occasion but the Nylatron is great. The solid steering rack mounts do provide a firmer feel and more road feedback but nothing exceptional that would prevent me from recommending them to someone else. It takes a pretty good bump/pothole for me to even notice them. The TBI conversion has been better then I had hoped for. The car starts immediately and settles into a nice idle with no stumbles, hesitation, backfires, misses etc. Throttle response is outstanding. It easily pulls past 5000 RPM's in all 4 gears......well I can't say it does in 4th as I've never gone that fast. My plugs are "spotless" and my mileage, with a 4 speed, is 20 around town and 27 on the highway. Prior to this my car was a pig that needed to run rich and got 12 city and 18 highway. Yikes! Oh yea....Dan's wire harness is great too with everything electronic working just fine with nary a blown fuse or failed component in 3 years........except when I do stupid stuff and let a disconnected hot wire go to ground while I'm working on something. Disconnect the battery Bob! Time to start planning this winter's projects and I've got a few good ones lined up already....as well as a late August one that I want to complete before the British Invasion at Stowe :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.10/943 - Release Date: 8/8/2007 5:38 PM From Catpusher at aol.com Thu Aug 9 23:55:48 2007 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 01:55:48 EDT Subject: [TR] Subject: Water seeping up studs on a TR3A Message-ID: The TR2/3 parts manual has the part number for the lead wire to be fitted under the head nuts/washers. Been away, catching up; email me if you need it. Hope that the block is not cracked into the stud holes, but this can usually be sealed too. Hardy In a message dated 8/5/2007 2:50:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: Message: 6 Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 12:25:35 -0700 From: Allan Reich Subject: [TR] Water seeping up studs on a TR3A To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <46B6242F.5010500 at telus.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed I just replaced the head gasket on my TR3A again, this time face side down, torqued heads to 105 lbs, in steps of 20, torquing twice each step. Sprayed gasket with Permatex copper spray, got it good and sticking. Warmed it up, then re-torqued again, after backing each nut 1/4 turn. To my dismay, now have cooling fluid coming up studs #10 and #4 .. haven't peeked under the valve cover to see if any more. Main leaking is from #10. I have heard about lead wire seal and cooling fluid sealing .. what are the thoughts of the List group ??? ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 10 00:42:09 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 06:42:09 +0000 Subject: [TR] windshield In-Reply-To: Message-ID: You may find that rechroming the windshield frame will change the tolerances thus making it more difficult to install the glass. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Messenger Cafi  open for fun 24/7. Hot games, cool activities served daily. Visit now. http://cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_AugHMtagline From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Fri Aug 10 03:41:11 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 05:41:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] windshield References: Message-ID: <001b01c7db32$9665f320$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Watch your shop that does the chroming! The prep work done prior to the plating can be remarkably destructive to an item like this. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 6:44 PM Subject: [TR] windshield > hello, i have a good tr3-a windshield that needs to be rechromed. the > question is do i have it rechromed or buy a new one? looking for feedback > from all > angles and possible leads and prices. larry schwartz From shine88 at chartermi.net Fri Aug 10 08:18:16 2007 From: shine88 at chartermi.net (Pat) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 10:18:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] 74 tr6 for sale Message-ID: <000001c7db59$4c39d7e0$6400a8c0@Pat> After lurking on this great list for a couple of years ( learning many great things from everyone) we have come to a point where we need to sell our project. It started as a total res. and is half way there. If questions, pls e-mail me off list at shine88 at chartermi.net for pics. Thanks From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 10 10:22:25 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 09:22:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 metal fan References: <21092379.1186195747605.JavaMail.root@web25> Message-ID: <060601c7db6a$a4c32fe0$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Hi group, I wanted to alert the members that I found a serious manufacturing defect with a four bladed metal fan I just received. The steel rivets, on the fan I received, are not "set" properly. There are gaps under the manufactured head of the rivets that hold the fan together that range up to .080". The manufacture head and the shop head should both sit flat to the surface being riveted. With a gap under the head of the rivet there is no strength to the riveted joint. This means, over time, that there is a very real possibility that the rivets will work loose. In this application, given enough time, it is almost a certainty that the rivets will work loose. The problem, in my opinion, is really serious. The fan I received happened to come from Moss and they are taking the steps to correct the problem. I checked with TRF to see if they had any fans that were riveted properly. They were out of metal fans and said that they buy them from Moss in any event. The manufactures problem is probably related to the thickness of the powder coating on the center portion of the fan hub. The powdercoating needs to be removed from the rivet hole before the fan is riveted. I used to be an aircraft mechanic and I have done a lot of riveting and I understand how it is supposed to be done. Mike Denman TR3 From shine88 at chartermi.net Fri Aug 10 10:54:42 2007 From: shine88 at chartermi.net (Pat) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 12:54:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] 74 tr6 for sale Message-ID: <000001c7db6f$26073d90$6400a8c0@Pat> Sorry everyone, the car is in Kalamazoo, Mi Thanks, Pat From mcmeganutt at aol.com Fri Aug 10 11:48:02 2007 From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 13:48:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] 2500 Mile Update Message-ID: <8C9A98DBBC1ACD9-1A0-6158@mblk-d13.sysops.aol.com> Bob D. et al, Hi..... An invitation to all for the up coming 27th Annual All British Car Gathering, Show?and Picnic, sponsored by The Connecticut Triumph Register, www.CTRiumph.com . To be held This September 9th, 2007 at Wickham Park, Manchester, CT, from 9:00 to 4:00. Over 100 British Cars in attendence, so the more the merrier. Plaques and trophies, vendors and food in a beautiful park setting with 26 straight years of perfect weather, knock, knock. Pretty much at the junction of Route 44 and I-84 on West Middle Tpke, Manchester, CT.? Hope to see you all there,?Fred 70 TR6 CC54944L,FIT ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From kenmorett at msn.com Fri Aug 10 12:21:56 2007 From: kenmorett at msn.com (THOMAS NON-PUB TAYLOR) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 14:21:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Monster chrome Message-ID: Has anybody ever heard of Monster chrome? There are currently on ebay a pair of tail light housings that have been refinished with a process called Monster chrome (Cosmichrome sprat plating system) and the seller claims that the cost is about 1/3 that of electroplating. My question is if this process is any good and does it hold up as well as regular chrome. The pictures on the ad make the parts look like new. Before I take a chance on buying them I'd like to know more about them and would appreciate any feedback. Tom Taylor 61 TR4 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Aug 10 13:44:23 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 15:44:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Monster chrome In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000201c7db86$dbe2e850$210110ac@bobspc> Here's their site http://cosmichrome.com/home.htm It's some sort of a water based spray on process. If you Google cosmichrome you get lots of results. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of THOMAS NON-PUB TAYLOR Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 2:22 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Monster chrome Has anybody ever heard of Monster chrome? There are currently on ebay a pair of tail light housings that have been refinished with a process called Monster chrome (Cosmichrome sprat plating system) and the seller claims that the cost is about 1/3 that of electroplating. My question is if this process is any good and does it hold up as well as regular chrome. The pictures on the ad make the parts look like new. Before I take a chance on buying them I'd like to know more about them and would appreciate any feedback. Tom Taylor 61 TR4 _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007 2:44 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007 2:44 PM From shine88 at chartermi.net Fri Aug 10 17:09:25 2007 From: shine88 at chartermi.net (Pat) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 19:09:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] '74 tr6 for sale-more info Message-ID: <000301c7dba3$7f08bde0$6400a8c0@Pat> Sorry about not putting more things in my first post, so here goes: Located in Kalamazoo, MI New frame, No rust paint job ok but the shop sold us the wrong thinner for the clear coat and it orange peeled. They told us to wait a year or strip it, we waited the year and it could now be wet sanded and clear coated over Engine runs great, new clutch, brakes and lines, new hoses, new a-frame bushings Wood dash needs to be refinished 95% of the parts to put it together are there Dose not have a top Has older red lines but they should probably be replaced From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Aug 10 20:18:04 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 22:18:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] bolts below taillights?, without cage-nuts ok? Message-ID: <001f01c7dbbd$dae9b640$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am taking my time attaching my fenders. In fact, the the only wing I've installed thus far on the rear of my TR3 will need to come off again. The 3 bolts from the rear valence (?) which hold the fender to the body (below the taillights) will have to be re-created as the flanges and original bolts are gone. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to do this? I've mentioned also my dislike for the cage-nuts which hold the fender/wing on the body. Many folks agreed with me. "FT" pointed out how long they have lasted. I hope to use stainless nuts and bolts WITHOUT using any kind of cages. In other words, I will try to grab both the bolt-head and nut in order to tighten them. Yes, a cage securing a 4-sided nut was what the factory originally used. But, why is replacing the rusty cages with new ones considered the norm when one can proably access both nut-end and bolt-end of all of the fender attachments? Am I missing something here? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Aug 10 20:47:41 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 22:47:41 EDT Subject: [TR] bolts below taillights?, without cage-nuts ok? Message-ID: Paul, As I recall, there is a metal strap with a tapped hole in one end, or something like that. better check a parts book. Seems to me like a nut and bolt on each side would be just fine. I will now philosophize a bit and tell you my thinking. I bought my TR used in 1963 and paid $400 for it. I was in my barely 20's at the time, and struggling. I did things however it suited me! My bent in that direction was reinforced by the local Triumph dealer in Glendale NEVER having the parts I needed, so I got in the habit of improvising. My car was not very correct. As I got older and worked on the car myself, I got in the habit of trying to always do things as they were from the factory if at all possible. Over the years, I restored maybe half a dozen different British cars. But one car really impressed me most after I bought it restored-sort of! It was a short wheelbase 1970 XJ (forerunner of the XJ6). I bought it from the college professor who had spent years restoring it. It wasn't a show car by US standards, but he had done everything exactly per the factoryparts manual. Whenever I took something apart, there would always be the appropriate washers, many were replacements. I loved working on the car because even though the paint might be worn (it was original), it was clean and had exactly the correct parts no matter how buried the location was. I even wrote the previous owner (who became a close friend) a letter explaining what a pleasure it was to work on the car in areas I knew he had been previously (he took careful notes and had excellent records of the history of the car). When the drivers side seat bottom wore out, he had just that seat bottom replaced, not an entire new interior. Anyway, ever since then, I have always had the thought that whoever works on my cars someday understands the care i took in doing everything as correctly as I could. Silly, but that's my way of thinking! Good Luck! Mike Moore 59 TR3A ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Aug 11 06:07:41 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 08:07:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] windshield -- comment on the glass seal and installation References: Message-ID: <002301c7dc10$3833e120$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> I just last month got my windshield frame back from Space Coast Plating in Melbourne, FL. They did a really nice job on the frame and the front bumper. They are really busy and the wait is about 6 months now, so I've already taken the TR4 stuff over. The glass was actually easier to install after the plating than in Ronnie Babbitts that we installed at VTR that had the "old crud" in the channels. We tried to clean it out as best we could, and under different circumstances and steel wool it might have been better, but mine went in a whole lot easier and without the need for silicone lubricant. I did have to reseal mine this week -- a long story and TRF seal is much easier to work with and IMO a better product than the Moss seal I used the first time. TRF seal is more rubber feeling and is more moldable to the windshield. Also, the glass is more made to "hang in the frame" than fit tighly all the way around. If the screws in the top of the windshield touch the glass then it's in too far at the top -- IMO it's not supposed to go all the way to the top and if it does, the windshield will probably be too short at the bottom edge -- which was my problem. It's probably a good idea to replace the "L" shaped bracket at the bottom or at least chase the threads. I found some counter sunk brass screws at my local Ace that I ground down to the proper length - the old ones had rusted too badly. Also, the upper rod that the stanchion screws into had been lost at the plating shop - my fault. Luckily, Jere Dotten had an extra set for me to use. Now it looks great. Oh, the plates that the windwings attach to are available from Joe Alexander, no use to have them rechromed. Rechroming is expensive but better than the new parts available. I did buy new front overriders and rear bumpers for the 3 - much less expensive. Must get outside and do some trenching before the heat really hits. Tom > You may find that rechroming the windshield frame will change the > tolerances > thus making it more difficult to install the glass. > > > > Best regards, > Tom From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sat Aug 11 12:49:08 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 14:49:08 EDT Subject: [TR] TR-6 lifters, interesting read. Message-ID: There is a discussion on the engine building board speaking about TR-6 lifters not having any crown , interesting read. See link below. ( pics too ) Harold http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6401&sid=f28431aae38c6849d550604183a 37c3d ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Aug 11 13:56:44 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 12:56:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Heat Shield/Sound Barrier Installed - Carpet Next Message-ID: I've finished up the installation of the heat shield/sound barrier this morning. It installed fairly easily, like very thick wallpaper. I bought a 36 sg ft pack of Damplifier Pro from Second Skin (NFI) for $150 and have 1 and 2/3 sheets left over. I did not do the doors. It was difficult getting it on the upper part of the firewall and footwell. I should have removed the tranny cover to cover it instead of leaving it in place. After awhile I figured out to use a rolled up towel to put under my elbows when applying it in the footwells because my elbows were leaving dimples in the pieces covering the floor. I have to re roll the floors with a wooden roller to get them out. Final install pics here: http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_Carpet_Install/74_TR6_Carpet_Install_44.jpg http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_Carpet_Install/74_TR6_Carpet_Install_45.jpg http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_Carpet_Install/74_TR6_Carpet_Install_46.jpg -- Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From N197TR4 at cs.com Sat Aug 11 15:07:29 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 17:07:29 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Heat Shield/Sound Barrier Installed - Carpet Next Message-ID: Looks and sounds interesting Marty, I am thinking about doing something like this with my AMBRO - TR project. The engine (TR4) is set back 10 inches and I am expecting more heat transfer into the cockpit. I'll be interested in the final outcome, if you can share this. Thanks Marty, Joe Alexander > > I've finished up the installation of the heat shield/sound barrier this > morning. It installed fairly easily, like very thick wallpaper. I bought a > 36 sg ft pack of Damplifier Pro from Second Skin (NFI) for $150 and have 1 > and 2/3 sheets left over. I did not do the doors. It was difficult getting > it on the upper part of the firewall and footwell. I should have removed the > tranny cover to cover it instead of leaving it in place. After awhile I > figured out to use a rolled up towel to put under my elbows when applying it > in the footwells because my elbows were leaving dimples in the pieces > covering the floor. I have to re roll the floors with a wooden roller to get > them out. Final install pics here: > http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_Carpet_Install/74_TR6_Carpet_Install_44.j > pg > http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_Carpet_Install/74_TR6_Carpet_Install_45.j > pg > http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_Carpet_Install/74_TR6_Carpet_Install_46.j > pg > > -- > Marty Clark > Gilbert, AZ > 1974 TR6 CF17352U > http://www.triumphowners.com/798 > > Your messages not reaching the list? > From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Aug 11 18:52:44 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 20:52:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A stub axle removal Message-ID: <001301c7dc7b$18cd62f0$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> After a 3/4 nice ride Thursday, I had a wheel bearing problem with the driver's front. I had time to tackle it today and all went well until it was time to "tap" out the stub axle. I've beaten on the back side ( with the nut on) for a couple of hours now and nothing. I got a 1.25" pipe and with a washer tried to use a nut on the front side to pull it out and applied a whack or two to the back side .. again nothing. I've sprayed it with brake cleaner - both sides - and PB Blaster. Any other tricks before I have to pull the vertical link and press it out? I REALLY don't want to do that. Also, the stub axle does need to be replaced due to scoring. Thanks in advance Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Aug 11 19:10:21 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 19:10:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] Heat Shield/Sound Barrier Installed - Carpet Next In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46BE5DFD.1020706@tscusa.org> Marty Clark wrote: > I've finished up the installation of the heat shield/sound barrier this > morning. It installed fairly easily, like very thick wallpaper. > Very "Cool" Marty :) So does this stuff have a water proof adhesive that goes against the paint side on the floor? -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From davidt at opentext.com Sat Aug 11 20:00:34 2007 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 22:00:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a in local advertising Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB4608@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> First off woo hoo :-). There, had to get that out. The local mall Guelph Ontario is using a woman sitting in what looks like RHD red TR3a with a black interior. Of course it could be a flip image of a LHD :-). One more the good guys. David '59 TR3a '74 Spitsix From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Aug 11 20:20:14 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 22:20:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Monster chrome References: <000201c7db86$dbe2e850$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DABA@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Certainly the web-site video is in Quebec french, so the process would seem to be Canadian. The people are mostly saying it has economic advantages. The interviewees are selling picture frames, so there is no validation of it being useful for exterior metal work. Mark Hooper Montreal ________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net on behalf of Bob Danielson Sent: Fri 10/08/2007 3:44 PM To: 'THOMAS NON-PUB TAYLOR'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Monster chrome Here's their site http://cosmichrome.com/home.htm It's some sort of a water based spray on process. If you Google cosmichrome you get lots of results. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of THOMAS NON-PUB TAYLOR Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 2:22 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Monster chrome Has anybody ever heard of Monster chrome? There are currently on ebay a pair of tail light housings that have been refinished with a process called Monster chrome (Cosmichrome sprat plating system) and the seller claims that the cost is about 1/3 that of electroplating. My question is if this process is any good and does it hold up as well as regular chrome. The pictures on the ad make the parts look like new. Before I take a chance on buying them I'd like to know more about them and would appreciate any feedback. Tom Taylor 61 TR4 _______________________________________________ From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Aug 11 21:37:00 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 23:37:00 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A stub axle removal Message-ID: In a message dated 8/11/2007 8:54:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tfansher at comcast.net writes: ...wheel bearing problem with the driver's front. I had time to tackle it today and all went well until it was time to "tap" out the stub axle. I've beaten on the back side ( with the nut on) for a couple of hours now and nothing. I got a 1.25" pipe and with a washer tried to use a nut on the front side to pull it out and applied a whack or two to the back side .. again nothing. I've sprayed it with brake cleaner - both sides - and PB Blaster.... ==AM== Here's what worked for me many years ago. With the caliper out of the way, reassemble the rotor/hub (as best you can with the bad bearing[s]) and put the wheel back on. Now you've got leverage to pull on while someone else "persuades" the back side of the stub axle to flee from its taper fit. Granted, when I did this it was on a bodyless TR4 rolling chassis, but it worked for me. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From jmitch at snet.net Sun Aug 12 07:28:26 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 09:28:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stromberg bypass valves Message-ID: <46BF0AFA.1090906@snet.net> On Stromberg Carburetors, do the bypass valves have any effect on idle quality . Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sun Aug 12 10:06:55 2007 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 09:06:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR250 frame vx. '70 TR6 frame Message-ID: <820947.96665.qm@web37506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> List- Are there any differences between a TR250 frame and an early '70 TR6 frame? TIA! Chad From L1J1S at aol.com Sun Aug 12 11:16:01 2007 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 13:16:01 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 or tr3-a grill preference Message-ID: hello, i want to know if there is a preference to a small mouth grill vs. a large mouth grill. aside from the fact that the large mouth grill provides more cooling to the engine, does the appearance of one take preference to the other. i own a tr3-a with the large grill, but i personally love the small grill. to exchange from one to the other> would i destroy the value of the car? larry schwartz ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Aug 12 11:53:33 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 10:53:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 or tr3-a grill preference In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001B0A5C1C814483AED4953189FFBBCB@GeoPC> I don't think the air flow difference would be significant since the wide mouth skinnies down to a similar shape to the small-mouth back at the radiator. I personally prefer the small mouth look but not to the point of being tempted to change the apron. It wouldn't 'destroy the value of the car' but it wouldn't enhance it either. If you do this remember Aldo Leopold's admonition: "The first rule of tinkering is: Save all the parts" (i.e. keep the old apron for a future owner who prefers originality). Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 10:16 AM Subject: [TR] tr3 or tr3-a grill preference > hello, i want to know if there is a preference to a small mouth grill vs. > a > large mouth grill... From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Aug 12 12:39:46 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 14:39:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] NO tr3 trunk drains? Message-ID: <046f01c7dd10$414821d0$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I don't know why, but, when water hits my boot (trunk), running down it's side channels, on my car it must drain into my trunk! I kid you not! It has drain holes but they drain directly into the boot. The boot doesn't seem to have holes for this to pass-on-thru. What's wrong? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Aug 12 13:31:55 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 12:31:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] NO tr3 trunk drains? In-Reply-To: <046f01c7dd10$414821d0$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <046f01c7dd10$414821d0$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <7C436E9C6D7C4DFFAE9716C4092B5FF6@GeoPC> You're missing the rubber hoses that connect to those drain and run out thru holes in the trunk. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 11:39 AM Subject: [TR] NO tr3 trunk drains? >I don't know why, but, when water hits my boot (trunk), running down it's >side > channels, on my car it must drain into my trunk!... What's wrong? From gprtech at frontiernet.net Sun Aug 12 15:31:25 2007 From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 17:31:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] NO tr3 trunk drains? In-Reply-To: <046f01c7dd10$414821d0$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <046f01c7dd10$414821d0$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <46BF7C2D.1080903@frontiernet.net> There should be holes in the truck floor for rubber drain hoses. They may have been removed by a previous restoration George Richardson 1957 Triumph TR3 - TS15559L http://www.key-men.com/triumph 1975 Triumph TR6 - Undergoing restoration 1972 Triumph Stag - Daily Driver Key Men: Keys for Classics - http://www.key-men.com Paul Dorsey wrote: >I don't know why, but, when water hits my boot (trunk), running down it's side >channels, on my car it must drain into my trunk! I kid you not! It has drain >holes but they drain directly into the boot. The boot doesn't seem to have >holes for this to pass-on-thru. What's wrong? >Thanks, >Paul Dorsey >60 TR3 >_______________________________________________ >gprtech at frontiernet.net From DLylis at aol.com Sun Aug 12 15:36:53 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 17:36:53 EDT Subject: [TR] Stromberg bypass valves Message-ID: Indeed. If they are not functioning properly. You will find that your idle behaves like you have a vacuum leak. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 12 17:15:40 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 16:15:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 or tr3-a grill preference Message-ID: <18889577.1186960540349.JavaMail.root@web19> ---- L1J1S at aol.com wrote: > hello, i want to know if there is a preference to a small mouth grill vs. a > large mouth grill. aside from the fact that the large mouth grill provides > more cooling to the engine, Actually, the original large mouth grill provided somewhat less cooling to the engine. The factory had to widen the slots in the grill (a change apparently not reflected in replacement grills) and add the cardboard air deflector to improve air flow. > does the appearance of one take preference to the > other. I'd have to say that's definitely personal preference. Myself, I kind of prefer the 'small mouth' look, as the later cars have too much shiny metal up front for my tastes. However, the aftermarket anti-roll bars mount to the supports for the later front apron; so I'm going to keep the 'wide mouth' apron on my 'new' TR3 (at least until I can fabricate some other means of mounting the sway bar). > i own a tr3-a with the large grill, but i personally love the small > grill. to exchange from one to the other> would i destroy the value of the car? Depends on how "correct" the rest of the car is. As a "driver", I'd say it wouldn't reduce the value at all. But of course you would get badly dinged at a concours Triumph show. BTW, the later inner fenders (wings) don't leave enough room for the early "flat face" turn signals. If you put a TR3 front apron on a TR3A, you'll have to either cut holes in the inner fenders (as the TR3 had) or possibly there is enough room for the 3A "bee hive" turn signals. Randall From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Aug 12 19:21:14 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 21:21:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stromberg bypass valves In-Reply-To: <46BF0AFA.1090906@snet.net> References: <46BF0AFA.1090906@snet.net> Message-ID: <001601c7dd48$3e692350$284d3b47@Scott> Yes. If the diaphragm is torn, you will not be able to get the idle below 1800 to 2000 RPMs. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 R3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 9:28 AM To: 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Stromberg bypass valves On Stromberg Carburetors, do the bypass valves have any effect on idle quality . Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 From cfisher at borgwarner.com Mon Aug 13 06:44:12 2007 From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 07:44:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wobbly TR3A wheels- want to by a straight one. Message-ID: Hi list, Thanks for all the input on my wobbly, juddery TR3A question. I took the five stock steel wheels I have to a tire shop and watched them spin balance them. None were great, but two were extremely out of round and or out of true. That means I have one very bad wheel on the car and I think 95% of what I feel is coming from that. Does anyone have a known good stock wheel for sale? I want one that is believed to be reasonably round and true and with little or no rust. I'll get one off ebay if I must, but thought I'd have better luck getting a good wheel on the first try with the list. Thanks much, Curt Visit: www.CurtFisherRacing.com "Racing is life, anything that happens before or after is just waiting", Steve McQueen from Le Mans. "Racing is better than life. You only get one life, and if you screw it up, you have to live with the results. If you screw up a race, you get to start over fresh at the next one, and apply the lessons learned from your mistakes." Curt Fisher From trguy at cfl.rr.com Mon Aug 13 08:21:10 2007 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 10:21:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 96 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070813142109.DTSB12880.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@TRGUY> John: Yes - the bypass valves can cause idle issues (particularly higher idle). I have a modified street engine and I blanked off the bypass valves with a solid gasket to eliminate higher than desired idle. Check the VTR website http://www.vtr.org/maintain/zs-tech-tips.shtml for an article on the bypass valve idle issue. Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 75 TR6 (Miss Molly) Message: 9 Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 09:28:26 -0400 From: John Mitchell Subject: [TR] Stromberg bypass valves To: 6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>, "triumphs at autox.team.net" Message-ID: <46BF0AFA.1090906 at snet.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed On Stromberg Carburetors, do the bypass valves have any effect on idle quality . Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 From jdombey at infoscapecorp.com Mon Aug 13 10:39:08 2007 From: jdombey at infoscapecorp.com (John Dombey) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 09:39:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A stub axle removal Message-ID: <46C0892C.7070106@infoscapecorp.com> Tom, I'm going to make a rash assumption that a TR3A front suspension is basically the same as a TR6 - if it's not, then disregard this. One way I've used to get a better shot at the backside of the stub axle is to pop out the tie-rod (I know, pop out is really not a good description...), release the upper ball joint (just bolted to the A-arms on a TR6 - the travel of the lower A-arm and spring is limited by the shock absorber) and rotate the vertical link down to a horizontal position. I used large blocks of wood to support the vertical link on either side of the stub axle (rather than just at the top end and letting the trunnion take the load at the bottom - not nice to the trunnion, it's made of softer stuff). Then properly supported, I could beat the bejeezus out of the stub axle. I've done stubs on 3 cars - a TR6, a Stag and a TR8. The last two I had to take the vertical link (or whatever it's called on those) completely off of the car to get it horizontal. Once there, all of them came loose with a reasonable amount of beating. Hope it works for you too... John Dombey '69 TR6 ---------------- Message: 4 Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 20:52:44 -0400 From: "THOMAS FANSHER" Subject: [TR] TR3A stub axle removal To: "Triumphs list" Message-ID: <001301c7dc7b$18cd62f0$b7a93b44 at DCS78M81> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" After a 3/4 nice ride Thursday, I had a wheel bearing problem with the driver's front. I had time to tackle it today and all went well until it was time to "tap" out the stub axle. I've beaten on the back side ( with the nut on) for a couple of hours now and nothing. I got a 1.25" pipe and with a washer tried to use a nut on the front side to pull it out and applied a whack or two to the back side .. again nothing. I've sprayed it with brake cleaner - both sides - and PB Blaster. Any other tricks before I have to pull the vertical link and press it out? I REALLY don't want to do that. Also, the stub axle does need to be replaced due to scoring. Thanks in advance Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag --------- From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Aug 13 11:49:06 2007 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 10:49:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] A question regarding 12 poitn and 6 point sockets Message-ID: All my sockets at home are of the 12 point type. I've seen 8 point and more commonly 6 point. Are there advantages using 6 and 8 point? One advantage I see with a 6 point socket is that there is more surface area being applied on the nut and can help prevent it from the corners from rounding. So I suppose if you have a stubborn nut or bolt , a 6 point socket would be a better choice. Would this make sense? Sujit From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Aug 13 11:52:00 2007 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 10:52:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Is there a rule of thumb on when to use a flat washer with a lock nut/nyloc? Message-ID: On my Stag, I see some nuts being used with a flat washer and some without. Is there a rule of thumb when to use a flat washer with a lock nut/ nyloc? Sujit From tr6nut at verizon.net Mon Aug 13 11:59:35 2007 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 13:59:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Is there a rule of thumb on when to use a flat washer with a lock nut/nyloc? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46C09C07.1070303@verizon.net> sujit roy wrote: > On my Stag, I see some nuts being used with a flat washer and some without. > Is there a rule of thumb when to use a flat washer with a lock nut/ nyloc? > > > Don't know if there's a "Triumph" rule, but Carroll Smith (wrote all those "Tune to Win" books) wrote that you should always use a flat washer under a nut. Hugh Barber Stafford, VA '73 TR6 From pethier at comcast.net Mon Aug 13 12:05:13 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 18:05:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] A question regarding 12 poitn and 6 point sockets Message-ID: <081320071805.14706.46C09D59000307970000397222058863609D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "sujit roy" > All my sockets at home are of the 12 point type. I've seen 8 point and more > commonly 6 point. Are there advantages using 6 and 8 point? > One advantage I see with a 6 point socket is that there is more surface area > being applied on the nut and can help prevent it from the corners from > rounding. > > So I suppose if you have a stubborn nut or bolt , a 6 point socket would be > a better choice. Would this make sense? Never use a 12-point when you can use a 6-point. This applies to box wrenches as well as sockets. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Aug 13 12:13:34 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 13:13:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] A question regarding 12 poitn and 6 point sockets References: Message-ID: <002201c7ddd5$aaf6c4e0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Generally speaking, six point sockets are used on hex nuts where a heavy tightening or untightening torque is to be applied, as in using an impact wrench. 12 points are generally used when tightening or untightening can be accomplished by hand, rather than by a machine. 8 point sockets would only be used on square nuts. As an asided, you should always use the correct sized wrench or socket for the job. I have never bought into the "pound a metric socket onto the nut" school of thought, for loosening nuts that have worn corners, for example. There are better and safer ways of removing recalcitrant nuts, that don't involve smashing your knuckles because the wrong sized socket slipped off the nut. For the same reason, any adjustable wrenches should be banished to the far corners of the shop so that you are not tempted to use them instead of the correct wrench. I would venture to guess that many of the rounded off corners on nuts and bolts on our cars were caused by POs that used adjustable wrenches. Mike Marr > All my sockets at home are of the 12 point type. I've seen 8 point and > more > commonly 6 point. Are there advantages using 6 and 8 point? > One advantage I see with a 6 point socket is that there is more surface > area > being applied on the nut and can help prevent it from the corners from > rounding. > > So I suppose if you have a stubborn nut or bolt , a 6 point socket would > be > a better choice. Would this make sense? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 13 12:17:29 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 11:17:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] A question regarding 12 poitn and 6 point sockets In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <029301c7ddd6$372219b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > So I suppose if you have a stubborn nut or bolt , a 6 point > socket would be > a better choice. Would this make sense? Yes, absolutely ! 12-point sockets (and wrenches) are a convenience, easier to get on (especially in tight places). 12 point nuts do exist, but none of the original Stag fasteners were 12 point. 8 point is only for use on square heads, like the transmission fill plug. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 13 12:18:47 2007 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 11:18:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Cosmichrome was Re: Monster Chrome Message-ID: <19944.59249.qm@web83109.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Although I haven't heard of Monster Chrome, I am very familiar with Cosmichrome. For better info on the technology, check out http://www.goldtouchinc.com. It is indeed a spray-on finish, and I have seen parts to which it has been applied. Full vehicles have been shown at SEMA, and they sprayed a car for Pimp My Ride. It was also applied to some fabric used in the Victoria's Secret fashion show on TV last fall. There is a link to some scenes at the Gold Touch website. I don't know how it holds up in daily use, but the parts that Gold Touch displays at RAPID each year seem to have held up pretty well. The finish can be tinted so you could have your windscreen frame match your car. ;) Doug -- Doug Mitchell dmitchel at sbcglobal.net 1973 Spitfire 1973 Stag From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Aug 13 12:26:51 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 14:26:51 EDT Subject: [TR] A question regarding 12 poitn and 6 point sockets Message-ID: In a message dated 8/13/2007 11:14:42 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: For the same reason, any adjustable wrenches should be banished to the far corners of the shop so that you are not tempted to use them instead of the correct wrench. Alongside the Visegrips! Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dkspence at telus.net Mon Aug 13 12:33:50 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 12:33:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Is there a rule of thumb on when to use a flat washer with a lock nut/nyloc? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Why? Must be a good reason. On 13-Aug-07, at 11:59 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: Hugh Barber > Date: August 13, 2007 11:59:35 AM MDT (CA) > To: sujit roy > Cc: Triumph List > Subject: Re: [TR] Is there a rule of thumb on when to use a flat > washer with a lock nut/nyloc? > > > sujit roy wrote: >> On my Stag, I see some nuts being used with a flat washer and some >> without. >> Is there a rule of thumb when to use a flat washer with a lock >> nut/ nyloc? >> >> >> > Don't know if there's a "Triumph" rule, but Carroll Smith (wrote > all those "Tune to Win" books) wrote that you should always use a > flat washer under a nut. > > Hugh Barber > Stafford, VA > '73 TR6 From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Aug 13 12:34:03 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 14:34:03 EDT Subject: [TR] A question regarding 12 poitn and 6 point sockets Message-ID: In a message dated 8/13/2007 12:49:44 PM Central Daylight Time, triumphstag at gmail.com writes: > All my sockets at home are of the 12 point type. I've seen 8 point and > more > commonly 6 point. Are there advantages using 6 and 8 point? Most nuts are six sided. Hence they are called "hex" nuts. Some nuts are four sided. These are called "square" nuts. Square nuts are almost unknown in automobiles for the past 50 - 60 years but early on they were quite common. A twelve point wrench will fit both a hex nut and a square equally poorly. The six point wrench is better for the hex nut but won't fit a square nut. An eight point wrench works better on square nuts than a twelve point style but won't fit a hex nut. Another advantage to the twelve point wrench is that if you are in confined spaces you can reposition the wrench "half" a flat. This is a moot point with a ratchet style wrench. Like Phil says, if given a choice, use a six point wrench. Dave From tr6nut at verizon.net Mon Aug 13 12:42:04 2007 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 14:42:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Is there a rule of thumb on when to use a flat washer with a lock nut/nyloc? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46C0A5FC.8090901@verizon.net> Don Spence wrote: > Why? Must be a good reason. > On 13-Aug-07, at 11:59 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Don't have any of his books in front of me at the moment, but I recall that it had to do with spreading the fastener load and reliable torque readings. Hugh From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 13 12:42:09 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 11:42:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Is there a rule of thumb on when to use a flat washer with a lock nut/nyloc? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <029501c7ddd9$a7a1d0b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Why? Must be a good reason. I've not read Carroll Smith's book yet, but IMO one good reason for using a flat washer is to spread the load whenever the underlying material is softer/weaker than the nut. Sheet metal or aluminum always gets a flat washer. 'Split' lockwashers also tend to tear up castings, so use a flat washer there, too. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Aug 13 13:26:11 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 19:26:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] Body number Message-ID: <081320071926.12840.46C0B053000AA6050000322822070215530B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Question for all you TR gurus: The body number on my '59 TR3 (EB........, located above the battery box) is badly corroded. Any way to refurbish or replace? Andrew Uprichard* '62 TR3B '59 TR3A * and yes, I am related to Darryl Uprichard, owner of Racetorations in the UK: the last company of its type dedicated to the TR franchise. A great contact for anyone wanting more HP from their TR or that part you just can't get in the US From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 13 13:35:57 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 12:35:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stromberg bypass valves In-Reply-To: <46BF0AFA.1090906@snet.net> References: <46BF0AFA.1090906@snet.net> Message-ID: <02ac01c7dde1$2de8cc80$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > On Stromberg Carburetors, do the bypass valves have any effect on > idle quality . Only if they leak, or are mis-adjusted. Normally they should stay fully closed at idle, and only open during over-run (car pulling the engine). Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From Harrymague at aol.com Mon Aug 13 14:07:43 2007 From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 16:07:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Stromberg bypass valves Message-ID: John, sorry I too so long to get back to you. The attach file is from the British Leyland Techinical Training Series. I hope it answers some of your question. Harry Mague Beavercreek, OH 74 TR6 For the net, I didn't attach the file. If anybody wants it, let me know and I'll forward it direct. ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Aug 13 14:28:45 2007 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 13:28:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Is there a rule of thumb on when to use a flat washer with a lock nut/nyloc? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Would it be a good idea to place a flat washer on the bolt head too? Sujit On 8/13/07, sujit roy wrote: > > On my Stag, I see some nuts being used with a flat washer and some > without. Is there a rule of thumb when to use a flat washer with a lock > nut/ nyloc? > > > Sujit From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 13 14:51:01 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 13:51:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Is there a rule of thumb on when to use a flat washer with a lock nut/nyloc? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <02b401c7ddeb$a8715080$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Would it be a good idea to place a flat washer on the bolt head too? IMO if it's a bolt and nut, then generally no need for a flat washer under the head, since it doesn't turn or take a lock washer. But if the bolt threads into a casting, then generally a flat washer is appropriate. Generally, though, I go with the original arrangement as shown in the parts catalogue :^) Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From James.Olson at Kofc.Org Mon Aug 13 15:26:03 2007 From: James.Olson at Kofc.Org (James.Olson at Kofc.Org) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 17:26:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 08/13/2007 and will not return until 08/20/2007. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message and any attachments may contain confidential, proprietary or legally privileged information and is intended only for the use of the addressee or addressees named above for its intended purpose. If you are not the intended recipient of this message, this message constitutes notice that any review, retransmission, distribution, copying or other use or taking any action in reliance on the information in this message and its attachments, is prohibited. If you receive this communication in error, please immediately advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete this message and its attachments from your system without keeping a copy. Unless expressly stated in this e-mail, nothing in this message may be construed as a digital or electronic signature. Thank you. From wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 13 15:26:12 2007 From: wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net (William Babbitt) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 14:26:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Resistor Values for Alternator Conversion Message-ID: <210433.86571.qm@web81007.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Anyone save the emails giving the specs for the resistor and where to install it so that the red alternator (generator) light won't come on during idle? I accidentally deleted mone and can't find them in the archives. thanks, Bill Babbitt TR3a From DLylis at aol.com Mon Aug 13 15:58:23 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 17:58:23 EDT Subject: [TR] Coating the inside of block Message-ID: What is the conventional wisdom in coating the inside of a block. I have used Glyptal years ago, but now I am reading that this may not be a good idea. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Aug 13 16:16:35 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 15:16:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Body number In-Reply-To: <081320071926.12840.46C0B053000AA6050000322822070215530B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> References: <081320071926.12840.46C0B053000AA6050000322822070215530B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <60B75B2DE0134FF8A4E52E5C941112E3@GeoPC> Here's the email for the guy who made mine... trtags at comcast.net ...and a pic of the result (body tag only, EB is the original): http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Tags.JPG Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: [TR] Body number > Question for all you TR gurus: > > The body number on my '59 TR3 (EB........, located above the battery box) > is badly corroded. Any way to refurbish or replace? From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Aug 13 16:23:51 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 15:23:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Once again gentlemen (and lady)... we have been 'Olsened'. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 2:26 PM Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. >I will be out of the office starting 08/13/2007 and will not return until > 08/20/2007. From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 13 16:52:30 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 18:52:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: >Once again gentlemen (and lady)... we have been 'Olsened'. Great, now Clark and Lois will be out of the office, too. Happens every time Jimmy leaves. Doesn't anybody do any work around here? From wbeech at flash.net Mon Aug 13 18:31:40 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 18:31:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cosmichrome was Re: Monster Chrome In-Reply-To: <19944.59249.qm@web83109.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20070814003142.9E0AF1879BE@autox.team.net> Anyone out there with some verifiable, personal use, history with this product? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Mitchell Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Cosmichrome was Re: Monster Chrome Although I haven't heard of Monster Chrome, I am very familiar with Cosmichrome. For better info on the technology, check out http://www.goldtouchinc.com. It is indeed a spray-on finish, and I have seen parts to which it has been applied. Full vehicles have been shown at SEMA, and they sprayed a car for Pimp My Ride. It was also applied to some fabric used in the Victoria's Secret fashion show on TV last fall. There is a link to some scenes at the Gold Touch website. I don't know how it holds up in daily use, but the parts that Gold Touch displays at RAPID each year seem to have held up pretty well. The finish can be tinted so you could have your windscreen frame match your car. ;) Doug -- Doug Mitchell dmitchel at sbcglobal.net 1973 Spitfire 1973 Stag _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.17/951 - Release Date: 8/13/2007 10:15 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.17/951 - Release Date: 8/13/2007 10:15 AM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Aug 13 18:37:32 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 20:37:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radiator Cap Pressure Rating Message-ID: <000b01c7de0b$4efa46e0$210110ac@bobspc> While poking through the 6-Pack forums, I saw a post on the impact of radiator caps and thermostats on cooling the car. I understand the thermostat impact but what does the radiator cap do cooling wise? It somehow raises or lowers the boiling point? I checked and my car has a 4 lb cap while Moss & TRF state that a 13 lb cap is needed for my model year. Does the 4 lb cap make the car run hotter or cooler? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.15/949 - Release Date: 8/12/2007 11:03 AM From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Mon Aug 13 18:48:29 2007 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 20:48:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radiator Cap Pressure Rating In-Reply-To: <000b01c7de0b$4efa46e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000b01c7de0b$4efa46e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20070813204158.02c3b638@216.7.163.243> Bob, The more pressure in the cooling system, the higher the boiling point for the coolant is.... so the 13 pound cap is your better bet for the 6 since your coolant would not boil as easily under that pressure. Maybe the PO had some issues with the radiator or hoses leaking with the higher pound cap, so he/she went to the 4 pound? Keep an eye on your system once you switch over! - Aldwyn At 08:37 PM 8/13/2007, Bob Danielson wrote: >While poking through the 6-Pack forums, I saw a post on the impact of >radiator caps and thermostats on cooling the car. I understand the >thermostat impact but what does the radiator cap do cooling wise? It somehow >raises or lowers the boiling point? I checked and my car has a 4 lb cap >while Moss & TRF state that a 13 lb cap is needed for my model year. Does >the 4 lb cap make the car run hotter or cooler? > >Thanks >Bob > >Bob Danielson >1975 TR6 CF38503U >Running w/ Throttle Body Injection >http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > >No virus found in this outgoing message. >Checked by AVG. >Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.15/949 - Release Date: 8/12/2007 >11:03 AM > >_______________________________________________ >aldwyn at sylvancircle.org > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 13 18:55:26 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 17:55:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Cap Pressure Rating In-Reply-To: <000b01c7de0b$4efa46e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000b01c7de0b$4efa46e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <030a01c7de0d$ce01e400$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I understand the > thermostat impact but what does the radiator cap do cooling > wise? The primary effect is to raise the boiling point (by about 3 degrees for each psi); which gives you more margin before it boils over. Won't do much for running temperature either way, unless it's about to boil over. But that 13 psi cap might help keep it from 'puking' when you stop suddenly after a run (like pulling into a freeway rest stop). Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From timipurdy at citlink.net Mon Aug 13 19:03:06 2007 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 18:03:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Radiator Cap Message-ID: <008201c7de0e$e0665620$01fea8c0@Lahontan> The other day I checked the radiator, and just awhile ago, I am now missing the radiator cap, good thing I have not been going anywhere, though I am supposed to take it for a drive on Wednesday. My question, is can buy a replacement at either Napa or Kragen, the only two parts supply stores here, and if so, what would a reference to them that I need, a ie a certain brand or radiator cap style, instead of mentioning its for a Triumph, as they give me funny looks in the past. Tim From wbeech at flash.net Mon Aug 13 20:54:14 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 20:54:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070814025416.062A41879E3@autox.team.net> Great Ceaser's Ghost! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Herrera Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 4:53 PM To: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. >Once again gentlemen (and lady)... we have been 'Olsened'. Great, now Clark and Lois will be out of the office, too. Happens every time Jimmy leaves. Doesn't anybody do any work around here? _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.17/951 - Release Date: 8/13/2007 10:15 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.17/951 - Release Date: 8/13/2007 10:15 AM From wbeech at flash.net Mon Aug 13 20:54:14 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 20:54:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] Radiator Cap Pressure Rating In-Reply-To: <000b01c7de0b$4efa46e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20070814025416.D82451879E3@autox.team.net> The cap doesn't make it run hotter or cooler, it just raises the boiling point of your coolant and thus keep the car from boiling over when too hot. The thermostat regulates the temperature of the coolant along with the radiator and fan. Be careful increasing the capacity of the cap, if it doesn't allow you overheated engine to boil over, you could burst a hose or worse. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 6:38 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Radiator Cap Pressure Rating While poking through the 6-Pack forums, I saw a post on the impact of radiator caps and thermostats on cooling the car. I understand the thermostat impact but what does the radiator cap do cooling wise? It somehow raises or lowers the boiling point? I checked and my car has a 4 lb cap while Moss & TRF state that a 13 lb cap is needed for my model year. Does the 4 lb cap make the car run hotter or cooler? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.15/949 - Release Date: 8/12/2007 11:03 AM No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.17/951 - Release Date: 8/13/2007 10:15 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.17/951 - Release Date: 8/13/2007 10:15 AM From mlang at easystreet.com Mon Aug 13 22:47:18 2007 From: mlang at easystreet.com (Beth Lang) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 21:47:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Regrinding TR3 lifters? Message-ID: <46C133D6.8080903@easystreet.com> I am getting ready to drop my TR3 camshaft off at Oregon Cam Grinding Inc. to have a stock profile regrind done on it. Normally I would install new lifters on a reground cam, but I have read so many negative things about the lifters that are currently available. The folks at Oregon Cam Grinding say that they can regrind my old lifters to the proper profile for $4 each. I have done some searches but haven't found much discussion regarding regrinding old factory TR3 lifters. Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with having lifters reground? Thanks, Mike From mlang at easystreet.com Mon Aug 13 22:59:04 2007 From: mlang at easystreet.com (Beth Lang) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 21:59:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Coating the inside of block In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46C13698.20602@easystreet.com> David, For what it's worth, the factory apparently coated the inside of the TR3 block that I am currently rebuilding with some sort of black compound that dried with a glossy surface. It appears to be in pretty good condition considering that its 50 years old and has been soaked in motor oil for who knows how many 10's of thousands of miles. Mike DLylis at aol.com wrote: > What is the conventional wisdom in coating the inside of a block. I have > used Glyptal years ago, but now I am reading that this may not be a good idea. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO From banjonut at verizon.net Mon Aug 13 22:36:28 2007 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 21:36:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hydraulic lines to brake reservoir? Message-ID: <001e01c7de2c$ae913e30$6500a8c0@HAMPC> OK everybody....on a TR3A, what's the trick to bending the short brake lines that run from the master cylinders to the fluid reservoir? I got new lines from Moss (1/4" stuff), but they're so stiff I can't bend them without getting a horrible looking line full of kinks and dents. I have tried 3 different bending tools and a lot of patience, wore my fingers out, and I still had no luck....there are some tight bends in those lines. Is there better material...something that's a little softer and easier to bend? Or maybe somebody has a "secret method" to bend these things without collapsing them? Fill 'em with sand first? If you respond, please cc my home email too because I get the list as a digest. Thanks, Steve Ball Lompoc Ca banjonut at verizon.net '60 TR3A TS68164L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 13 22:47:42 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 21:47:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Regrinding TR3 lifters? Message-ID: <6090036.1187066862757.JavaMail.root@web22> > Has anyone > had any good or bad experiences with having lifters reground? It's my understanding that the result has the same problem as some of the new lifters; they are too soft. At any rate, I had some original lifters reground years ago by Babe Erson, and after only 10,000 miles or so, they had started to spall and break up. Since then, I have heard Kas Kastner's advice to run a new camshaft/lifters at a fast idle for 20 minutes or so (which contradicts many other's advice about driving the engine). He claims that will work harden the lifters and cam lobes. Also, Greg Solow (The Engine Room) and Ken Gillanders (British Frame and Engine) both have new lifters that work. (Likely others too, those are just the ones I've heard about.) Greg does a 100% test on his new lifters, while Ken has a solution from a different engine. There is also the whole fuss about reduced ZDDP levels in modern motor oil being a problem for "flat" lifter engines, but I'm not convinced that applies to stock TR motors. Still, it wouldn't hurt to throw in a can of GM's EOS additive during break-in (which contains ZDDP). Randall From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Tue Aug 14 02:29:44 2007 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 04:29:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. References: Message-ID: Great Caesar's Ghost! .. And don't call me chief. > >Once again gentlemen (and lady)... we have been 'Olsened'. > > Great, now Clark and Lois will be out of the office, too. Happens every > time > Jimmy leaves. Doesn't anybody do any work around here? From wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 14 05:10:14 2007 From: wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net (William Babbitt) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 04:10:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Resistor Values for Alternator Conversion In-Reply-To: <002601c7de0c$a6410000$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <782611.75891.qm@web81011.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Tom, Thanks for the response. Did Randall mention how many watts the resistor needs to be good for? The light is a little bothersome since it'll typically come on whenever I go down to a slow idle. Probably the result of using the original generator pulley on the alternator instead of a smaller diameter one like the one that comes with it. It's not an issue if I leave the electric radiator fan on. I'd just like to clear it up...... thanks, Bill THOMAS FANSHER wrote: Is it a problem? Mine doesn't come on if I rev the engine once after starting. 10 ohm is what Randall suggested. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Babbitt" To: Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 5:26 PM Subject: [TR] Resistor Values for Alternator Conversion > Anyone save the emails giving the specs for the resistor and where to > install it so that the red alternator (generator) light won't come on > during idle? > I accidentally deleted mone and can't find them in the archives. > thanks, > Bill Babbitt > TR3a From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Tue Aug 14 05:22:56 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 13:22:56 +0200 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. References: Message-ID: <004a01c7de65$7705cb00$0500a8c0@Study> I am as happy as anyone on the list for James S Olsen that he has escaped the bounds of his office until next Monday and I am sure we all congratulate him on his generosity in sharing this joyful news with us instead of selfishly confining it to his immediate businnes associates I wonder if his domain Kofc.org has anything to do with the famous Colonel Sanders? If so, should we be anxious for the chickens' welfare without James S Olsen's attention? Can anyone shed any light?. Inquiring minds want to know David Brister 1967 TR4A (Now with an oiltight gearbox.) -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 4936 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 14 05:37:38 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 07:37:38 EDT Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. Message-ID: In a message dated 8/13/2007 5:52:57 PM Central Daylight Time, jrherrera90 at hotmail.com writes: > Great, now Clark and Lois will be out of the office, too. Happens every > time > Jimmy leaves. Doesn't anybody do any work around here? > Right, Chief! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Aug 14 05:45:37 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 07:45:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radiator Cap Pressure Rating In-Reply-To: <030a01c7de0d$ce01e400$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: <000b01c7de0b$4efa46e0$210110ac@bobspc> <030a01c7de0d$ce01e400$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <001301c7de68$a41122e0$210110ac@bobspc> I like the puking analogy.....and that would explain why the electric fan might turn on after you've shut the engine off. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 8:55 PM To: 'Bob Danielson'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Radiator Cap Pressure Rating > I understand the > thermostat impact but what does the radiator cap do cooling wise? The primary effect is to raise the boiling point (by about 3 degrees for each psi); which gives you more margin before it boils over. Won't do much for running temperature either way, unless it's about to boil over. But that 13 psi cap might help keep it from 'puking' when you stop suddenly after a run (like pulling into a freeway rest stop). Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.15/949 - Release Date: 8/12/2007 11:03 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.483 / Virus Database: 269.11.17/951 - Release Date: 8/13/2007 10:15 AM From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 14 05:50:54 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 07:50:54 EDT Subject: [TR] Radiator Cap Pressure Rating Message-ID: In a message dated 8/13/2007 7:38:03 PM Central Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: > While poking through the 6-Pack forums, I saw a post on the impact of > radiator caps and thermostats on cooling the car. I understand the > thermostat impact but what does the radiator cap do cooling wise? It somehow > raises or lowers the boiling point? I checked and my car has a 4 lb cap > while Moss &TRF state that a 13 lb cap is needed for my model year. Does > the 4 lb cap make the car run hotter or cooler? > The cap will not make the car run cooler but it will allow it to run hotter without boiling the coolant. If your car is boiling over with a 4 lb cap, try a 13 lb cap. If it ain't boiling over, don't worry about it. But the 13 lb cap will put more stress on the cooling system. That's the trade-off. Personal experience: When I put my TR8 back on the road I used my original cap (in an ill-advised attempt for originality) which unbeknownst to me was not holding pressure at all. Result: no problems during the month of driving around St. Louis but as soon as I hit 5,000 ft in altitude I had serious boil-over problem when I shut down. One of the many things I tried to resolve the issue was replace the cap and voir l`, problem solved. Even at the almost 13,000 ft mountain passes in Colorado. The short answer is if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Dave From kentech0822 at verizon.net Tue Aug 14 05:59:24 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 07:59:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Regrinding TR3 lifters? In-Reply-To: <46C133D6.8080903@easystreet.com> References: <46C133D6.8080903@easystreet.com> Message-ID: <000f01c7de6a$8ed3e6e0$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> The new lifters I purchased recently from Ken at BFE each had a tiny triangular divot at the top indicating to me that they all had been individually hardness tested. Ken said at least 50 on the Rockwell scale, then mentioned running @2500rpm or so for 20 minutes after initial startup, and using proper cam lube at assembly as well. They are phosphated and have a drainage hole drilled, cost was $11 each + s&h. PeterK -----Original Message----- From: Beth Lang [mailto:mlang at easystreet.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 12:47 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Regrinding TR3 lifters? I am getting ready to drop my TR3 camshaft off at Oregon Cam Grinding Inc. to have a stock profile regrind done on it. Normally I would install new lifters on a reground cam, but I have read so many negative things about the lifters that are currently available. The folks at Oregon Cam Grinding say that they can regrind my old lifters to the proper profile for $4 each. I have done some searches but haven't found much discussion regarding regrinding old factory TR3 lifters. Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with having lifters reground? Thanks, Mike From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue Aug 14 06:31:56 2007 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 08:31:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Where on earth is James S Olsen? Message-ID: > I am as happy as anyone on the list for James S Olsen > I wonder if his domain Kofc.org has anything to do with the famous Colonel > Sanders? Can anyone shed any light?. Inquiring minds want to know. > David Brister Dave: Google tells me its the Knights of Columbus. http://www.kofc.org/un/index.cfm James may be celebrating '125 Yeas of Faith in Action' in Nashville. Brian From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Tue Aug 14 08:48:34 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 09:48:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] aluminum hubs Message-ID: <200708141448.l7EEmiAL229103@ns3.geneseo.net> Southwick aluminum front hubs are available for shipping. These fit TR2-3-4-5-6 Price $565 plus shipping, per pair. Includes all bearings, studs, seals, dust cap. For those who have sent in a deposit, you will be contacted by Southwick, if it hasn't happened already. If you are not on the list but have decided to purchase these, please contact Southwick Machine and Design at 309-949-2868 Thanks for putting up with messages about this on the lists -- NFI -- just trying to help the sport. uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Aug 14 09:15:12 2007 From: chris.buckley51 at yahoo.co.uk (Chris Buckley) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 16:15:12 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] unsubcribe In-Reply-To: <200708141448.l7EEmiAL229103@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <258392.62227.qm@web27406.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hi List, I will be away for a couple of weeks and cant seem to unsubscribe. Is there a user friendly explanation? --------------------------------- Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Tryit now. From jrmcarthur at verizon.net Tue Aug 14 09:25:37 2007 From: jrmcarthur at verizon.net (james mc arthur) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 11:25:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] trailing arm shims Message-ID: <000501c7de87$5e097da0$2f01a8c0@jamesxicl1s1xg> Good day to all. I am in the process of reassembling the rear suspension on my '74 and have a question. Can anyone tell me what the thickness is, in thousandths, of the trailing arm shims? I am trying to 'rust proof' as I tackle projects, so I took the shims to work, had them vibed, and then run through our plater. They have been plated, as well as had a rust proofer applied to them. Now, I am concerned that I may have unintentionally increased their thickness, and will mess up the settings if I install the same number of shims that I removed. With that in mind, I'd like to know the thickness of the shims so I can replace them with the same thickness as removed. I hope all of this makes sense and that you are following me. Anyone that can help would earn my thanks and respect. Thanks to all that reply. I'm at jrmcarthur at verizon.net, if you would like to reply offlist. Many thanks!.....Jim McArthur From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Tue Aug 14 09:46:48 2007 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 11:46:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] unsubcribe References: <258392.62227.qm@web27406.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Chris, You should be able to go to http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs and view the unsubscribe section. Whatever you do, don't ask Jimmy Olson how to do it. Glenn ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Buckley" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 11:15 AM Subject: [TR] unsubcribe > Hi List, > I will be away for a couple of weeks and cant seem to unsubscribe. Is > there a user friendly explanation? From dkspence at telus.net Tue Aug 14 09:52:36 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 09:52:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 100 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: James is probably out skewering the chickens on his sword. kofc is The Knights of Columbus, a Catholic fraternal benefits organization headquartered in New Haven, Conn. On 14-Aug-07, at 5:46 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "David Brister" > Date: August 14, 2007 5:22:56 AM MDT (CA) > To: > Subject: Re: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. > > > I am as happy as anyone on the list for James S Olsen that he has > escaped the bounds of his office until next Monday and I am sure > we all congratulate him on his generosity in sharing this joyful > news with us instead of selfishly confining it to his immediate > businnes associates > > I wonder if his domain Kofc.org has anything to do with the famous > Colonel Sanders? If so, should we be anxious for the chickens' > welfare without James S Olsen's attention? Can anyone shed any light?. > > Inquiring minds want to know > > David Brister > 1967 TR4A (Now with an oiltight gearbox.) From sbracing at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 14 10:19:10 2007 From: sbracing at sbcglobal.net (Steven Benford Jr) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 09:19:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [Fot] aluminum hubs In-Reply-To: <200708141448.l7EEmiAL229103@ns3.geneseo.net> Message-ID: <549178.62355.qm@web81001.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Jack, Are the heavy duty axle kits that go with the hubs still available? Thumbs Up. Steve "Jack W. Drews" wrote: Southwick aluminum front hubs are available for shipping. These fit TR2-3-4-5-6 Price $565 plus shipping, per pair. Includes all bearings, studs, seals, dust cap. For those who have sent in a deposit, you will be contacted by Southwick, if it hasn't happened already. If you are not on the list but have decided to purchase these, please contact Southwick Machine and Design at 309-949-2868 Thanks for putting up with messages about this on the lists -- NFI -- just trying to help the sport. uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net sbracing at sbcglobal.net Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 14 11:18:17 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 13:18:17 EDT Subject: [TR] trailing arm shims Message-ID: In a message dated 8/14/2007 10:26:43 AM Central Daylight Time, jrmcarthur at verizon.net writes: > Now, I am concerned that I may have unintentionally > increased their thickness, and will mess up the settings if I install the > same number of shims that I removed. Forget about it. If you are rebuilding the suspension you "should" get a four wheel alignment afterwards anyway and they will add/remove shims to suit. Dave From twirt at claycoyote.com Tue Aug 14 11:56:33 2007 From: twirt at claycoyote.com (Tom at Clay Coyote) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 12:56:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. References: Message-ID: <01f901c7de9c$74f81bb0$6402a8c0@GALLERYOFFICE2> I got an idea, when "James" gets back in the office, someone post it to the list, then we can each send him a note that we're really glad he is back and that we hope he learns to use his computer soon! :>) Tom Wirt TS 77810L >>Subject: Re: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. >> >Once again gentlemen (and lady)... we have been 'Olsened'. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 14 11:59:19 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 10:59:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Hydraulic lines to brake reservoir? In-Reply-To: <001e01c7de2c$ae913e30$6500a8c0@HAMPC> References: <001e01c7de2c$ae913e30$6500a8c0@HAMPC> Message-ID: <03f701c7de9c$d7188000$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > OK everybody....on a TR3A, what's the trick to bending the > short brake lines > that run from the master cylinders to the fluid reservoir? 1) Buy them pre-bent from TRF. 2) Buy Cunifer (copper-nickel alloy) lines, they are much softer and easier to bend with your fingers. (But don't try to use ordinary copper or anything not designed for brake system service.) 3) I have a very small diameter tubing bender, with a notch cut to receive the tubing nut, but I have no idea where to find another one like it (and you can't have mine). I've never had any luck with the sand approach, but maybe that's just me. Bought some of those springs that slip over the outside, but so far I've only tried them on much larger steel tubing (1/2"). They helped some, but were a pain to use. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From davidt at opentext.com Tue Aug 14 12:15:58 2007 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:15:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. In-Reply-To: <01f901c7de9c$74f81bb0$6402a8c0@GALLERYOFFICE2> References: <01f901c7de9c$74f81bb0$6402a8c0@GALLERYOFFICE2> Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E065717B5@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> I suspect he is not doing anything intentionally; probably the list server is not catching the message as an OOO or vacation message :-( David '59 TR3a '74 Spitsix From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Tue Aug 14 12:23:01 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 13:23:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. In-Reply-To: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E065717B5@OTWATMX01.opentex t.net> References: <01f901c7de9c$74f81bb0$6402a8c0@GALLERYOFFICE2> <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E065717B5@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> Message-ID: <200708141823.l7EINB5C322717@ns3.geneseo.net> Olson out of office Well, what a coincidence. Mr. Olson is a personal friend of mine and has asked that I pass along the message that everyone should send that $10 you owe him to me and I will forward it to him ........heh heh At 01:15 PM 8/14/2007, David Templeton wrote: >I suspect he is not doing anything intentionally; probably the list >server is not catching the message as an OOO or vacation message :-( > >David >'59 TR3a >'74 Spitsix >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From AMfoto1 at aol.com Tue Aug 14 12:27:16 2007 From: AMfoto1 at aol.com (AMfoto1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:27:16 EDT Subject: [TR] Regrinding TR3 lifters Message-ID: Hi Mike, Have they actually inspected each and every one of your cam followers and signed off that they can be reground? They need to be able to remove any and all pitting on the face, and they cannot have any cracks. If they pass initial tests, when done right regrinding is a good option if you are totally certain they are originals. The originals were good quality, the problems have been some softer replacements offered over the years. You could have them tested for hardness, too. I think you want more than Rockwell 50... more like 54 or 56 if memory serves. There are also some guidelines in Kas Kastners books about how to lighten the stock lifters very effectively and safely, if interested. The alternative is new followers, such as Ken at www.britishframeandendine.com offers. He's got two types, one being the GT40 lifter with a special sleeve, ala Racetorations. High quality, but about twice the price. Also I've heard occasionally they are not a good match with the end of the pushrod, so that's something to check. Also, www.bpnorthwest.com and www.tsimportedautomotive.com probably can help. Greg Sulow at The Engine Room in Santa Cruz Calif. might have really high end followers avail., if you want to spend some serious bucks. Last I heard he was experimenting with ceramic! Your cam probably needs to be hardened before putting it back in service. This is not normally done during regrind. And, are you replacing the push rods, too? Is the rest of the rocker assembly being rebuilt? Be sure to read up on proper cam shaft lube and breakin. The first 10-20 minutes are critical. Cheers! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT176092L http://www.triumphowners.com/640 (http://www.triumphowners.com/640) ************************************************* I am getting ready to drop my TR3 camshaft off at Oregon Cam Grinding Inc. to have a stock profile regrind done on it. Normally I would install new lifters on a reground cam, but I have read so many negative things about the lifters that are currently available. The folks at Oregon Cam Grinding say that they can regrind my old lifters to the proper profile for $4 each. I have done some searches but haven't found much discussion regarding regrinding old factory TR3 lifters. Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with having lifters reground? *************************************************** (http://www.triumphowners.com/640) ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From triumphworks at gmail.com Tue Aug 14 12:40:27 2007 From: triumphworks at gmail.com (Alain) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:40:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] best way to ship from UK to US - suggestions?? freight forwarders?? Message-ID: I am trying to bring in some hard to find stateside parts from the UK. Shipping quote from DHL = $129 insurance included Shipping quote from Fedex economy = $169 insurance included Shipment value = $240 weights = 8.8lbs, 4kg Whoaaa.... does anyone, who ships often, know any other more economical methods?? Freight forwarders, or other suggestions, short of a plane ticket to the UK to retrieve them. Thanks, Alain -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 From banjonut at verizon.net Tue Aug 14 12:40:52 2007 From: banjonut at verizon.net (banjonut at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 13:40:52 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] hydraulic lines to reservoir..mystery solved Message-ID: <19739649.11324631187116852454.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net> Thanks again to this list for helping me solve the mystery of the hydraulic lines on my TR3A. I heard from several of you with good information, and I ended up ordering them pre-bent from TRF. I'll let you know how they fit in a few days....I hope this is the final solution. I appreciate all the good information. Once again, this list comes through for us when we need it! Steve From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Tue Aug 14 13:11:23 2007 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Rarebits) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 20:11:23 +0100 Subject: [TR] best way to ship from UK to US - suggestions?? freight forwarders?? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070814190317.648161879E2@autox.team.net> This link will give you the options using the British Post Office: http://www.parcelforce.com/portal/pw/PriceFinder Cheers, Bill. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Alain > Sent: 14 August 2007 19:40 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] best way to ship from UK to US - suggestions?? freight > forwarders?? > > I am trying to bring in some hard to find stateside parts from the UK. > > Shipping quote from DHL = $129 insurance included > Shipping quote from Fedex economy = $169 insurance included > Shipment value = $240 > weights = 8.8lbs, 4kg > > Whoaaa.... does anyone, who ships often, know any other more economical > methods?? Freight forwarders, or other suggestions, short of a plane > ticket > to the UK to retrieve them. > > Thanks, Alain > -- > 67 TR4A > 71 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 14 14:21:16 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 13:21:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Cap Pressure Rating In-Reply-To: <001301c7de68$a41122e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000b01c7de0b$4efa46e0$210110ac@bobspc> <030a01c7de0d$ce01e400$6a5636cc@navcom.com> <001301c7de68$a41122e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <041b01c7deb0$ab229850$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I like the puking analogy.....and that would explain why the > electric fan > might turn on after you've shut the engine off. They happen for the same reason : when you shut the engine off, the insides of the cylinders are still hot. That heat moves into the coolant in the engine block and cylinder head; but the coolant is no longer moving to carry the heat away to the radiator. If the coolant inside the engine gets hot enough, it boils a little and forces coolant out the overflow. The boiling absorbs heat though, so it cools the engine and stops the boiling. A higher pressure cap means the coolant can absorb more heat before it boils. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From gprtech at frontiernet.net Tue Aug 14 17:15:33 2007 From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 19:15:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. In-Reply-To: <01f901c7de9c$74f81bb0$6402a8c0@GALLERYOFFICE2> References: <01f901c7de9c$74f81bb0$6402a8c0@GALLERYOFFICE2> Message-ID: <46C23795.1090807@frontiernet.net> Since this is the second time this summer Mr. Olson has gifted us with this auto response, and we did make some comments the first time around, I suspect it's more a mater of just not caring. George Richardson 1957 Triumph TR3 - TS15559L http://www.key-men.com/triumph 1975 Triumph TR6 - Undergoing restoration 1972 Triumph Stag - Daily Driver Key Men: Keys for Classics - http://www.key-men.com Tom at Clay Coyote wrote: >I got an idea, when "James" gets back in the office, someone post it to the >list, then we can each send him a note that we're really glad he is back and >that we hope he learns to use his computer soon! > >:>) > >Tom Wirt >TS 77810L > > >>>Subject: Re: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. >>> >>> >>>>Once again gentlemen (and lady)... we have been 'Olsened'. >>>> >>>> >_______________________________________________ >gprtech at frontiernet.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Aug 14 17:19:50 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 19:19:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. In-Reply-To: <46C23795.1090807@frontiernet.net> References: <01f901c7de9c$74f81bb0$6402a8c0@GALLERYOFFICE2> <46C23795.1090807@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <200708141919.50166.yellowtr@adelphia.net> All, This looks like James is using this email address for business. He needs to get another email address for this list and let the mailbox fill up as I do when away from the puter. I was away for the past 4 days and had to sift through over 100 emails last night. Took me about 10 minutes while I watched the news. No big deal! Bob From Windoseat at aol.com Tue Aug 14 17:51:03 2007 From: Windoseat at aol.com (Windoseat at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 19:51:03 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 Bump Steer Message-ID: I have read several articles on the fact that the GT6 has bump steer based on the location of the steering arms in relation to the chassis. Has anyone found a cure for this? I am about to look into the issue now that I have the chassis finished and painted. Imagine 37 years old and only two spots that rusted through on the outriggers and the rest is sound! Greg Wolf Bridgewater, Michigan 1970 Triumph GT6+ ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From mark at nashvilletn.org Tue Aug 14 17:54:06 2007 From: mark at nashvilletn.org (Mark) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 18:54:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. References: <01f901c7de9c$74f81bb0$6402a8c0@GALLERYOFFICE2> <46C23795.1090807@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <010801c7dece$6908c480$0600a8c0@Dell9200> Anybody noticed that there was one or two emails announcing that Mr. Olson was our of the office and 20 or so complaining about it? Oops, make that 21 From DLylis at aol.com Tue Aug 14 18:11:16 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 20:11:16 EDT Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. Message-ID: In a message dated 8/14/2007 6:54:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, mark at nashvilletn.org writes: Anybody noticed that there was one or two emails announcing that Mr. Olson was our of the office and 20 or so complaining about it? Oops, make that 21 22 David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 14 18:11:40 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 17:11:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] How many listers does it take to change a light bulb ? (was James S Olson is out of the office) (no LBC content) In-Reply-To: <010801c7dece$6908c480$0600a8c0@Dell9200> References: <01f901c7de9c$74f81bb0$6402a8c0@GALLERYOFFICE2><46C23795.1090807@frontiernet.net> <010801c7dece$6908c480$0600a8c0@Dell9200> Message-ID: <04b101c7ded0$da7bf8b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Answer: 1,196 1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed; 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently; 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs; 27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs; 53 to flame the spell checkers; 41 to correct spelling/grammar of the flames; 6 to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light bulb"; another 6 to condemn those 6 as anal-retentive; 156 to write to the site administrator about the light bulb discussion and its inappropriateness to this board; 109 to post that this board is not about light bulbs and to please take this thread to the litebulb board; 203 to demand that cross posting to grammar-l, spelling-l and illuminati-l about changing light bulbs be stopped; 111 to defend the posting to this board saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts *are* relevant to this board; 306 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty; 27 to post URL's where one can see examples of different light bulbs; 14 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and the post the corrected URL's; 3 to post about links they found from the URL's that are relevant to this board which makes light bulbs relevant to this board; 33 to link all posts to date, then quote them including all headers and footers and then add "Me too"; 12 to post to the board that they are logging off because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy; 19 to quote the "Me too's" to say "Me three"; 4 to suggest that posters request the light bulb FAQ; 44 to ask what is "FAQ"; CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From boggiano at charter.net Tue Aug 14 18:15:41 2007 From: boggiano at charter.net (tab) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 20:15:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] White smoke out the tail pipe Message-ID: <003f01c7ded1$6a3dbab0$6501a8c0@na01.crl.com> TR List My TR4 seems to have developed a large whiteish plume of smoke from the tail pipe, most evident on acceleration but it seems like it is always there. Oil pressure is fine 70 at speed 40-50 at idle when warm. Oil looks clean when I changed it tonight. Compression is fine at each of the cylinders It does seem to be "loosing" cooling antifreeze but there is no leak or puddle Other than the smoke which concerns me as something new it seems to be running acceptably. So before I go more in-depth where should I start looking there is still plenty of driving time this season which I would hate to loose but dont want to damage anything too badly Thanks Tom From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Aug 14 18:29:13 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 20:29:13 EDT Subject: [TR] Regrinding TR3 lifters? Message-ID: Try reading this thread http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6401&sid=f28431aae38c6849d550604183a 37c3d ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Aug 14 18:46:25 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 20:46:25 EDT Subject: [TR] James S Olson is out of the office. Message-ID: In a message dated 8/14/07 8:11:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: << 20 or so complaining about it? Oops, make that 21 22 >> Well it's 1. . 2. . .3 what are we emailin for, don't ask me I don't give a d. . . ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From wbeech at flash.net Tue Aug 14 18:46:55 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 18:46:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] White smoke out the tail pipe In-Reply-To: <003f01c7ded1$6a3dbab0$6501a8c0@na01.crl.com> Message-ID: <20070815004656.E3DEA187ADB@autox.team.net> Tom, There are a lot of answers, until you get into it it will be had to tell, here are a few thoughts to consider: Rings or valve guides are the most common culprits. Neither being worn will affect your oil pressure, unless you burn all the oil in the system. Your compression being good says that probably nothing is broken, the excess oil in your cylinder helps the compression to stay high. Are you seeing a lot of blow-by at your filler cap or vent? Obviiously, smoke is not a good this as it indicate excessive wear, can foul the plugs and pollutes the air. IMHO, if it is not too bad (ie..you look like the DDT truck coming down the street) then I would drive it for the next two good driving months and tear it down this fall. Worst case: You have worn into an oil passageway into an oil galley that is letting some oil seep into the combustion chamber. You have a bad head gasket or cacked block that is allowing both coolant and oil into the chamber to be burned off (any water coming from the tailpipe?) If so, park it NOW and get your checkbook out! Your coolant loss, depending on the amount, could be a small leak in a hose or radiator that just opens up under pressure and does not leak when you park it, check everything real good while it is hot. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tab Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 6:16 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] White smoke out the tail pipe TR List My TR4 seems to have developed a large whiteish plume of smoke from the tail pipe, most evident on acceleration but it seems like it is always there. Oil pressure is fine 70 at speed 40-50 at idle when warm. Oil looks clean when I changed it tonight. Compression is fine at each of the cylinders It does seem to be "loosing" cooling antifreeze but there is no leak or puddle Other than the smoke which concerns me as something new it seems to be running acceptably. So before I go more in-depth where should I start looking there is still plenty of driving time this season which I would hate to loose but dont want to damage anything too badly Thanks Tom _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/953 - Release Date: 8/14/2007 5:19 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/953 - Release Date: 8/14/2007 5:19 PM From wbeech at flash.net Tue Aug 14 18:56:55 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 18:56:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Where on earth is James S Olsen? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070815005656.3D73A1879F9@autox.team.net> Knight of Columbus -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 6:32 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Where on earth is James S Olsen? > I am as happy as anyone on the list for James S Olsen I wonder > if his domain Kofc.org has anything to do with the famous Colonel > Sanders? Can anyone shed any light?. Inquiring minds want to know. > David Brister Dave: Google tells me its the Knights of Columbus. http://www.kofc.org/un/index.cfm James may be celebrating '125 Yeas of Faith in Action' in Nashville. Brian _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/953 - Release Date: 8/14/2007 5:19 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/953 - Release Date: 8/14/2007 5:19 PM From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Aug 14 18:59:15 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 20:59:15 EDT Subject: [TR] Where on earth is James S Olsen? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/14/2007 5:57:37 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: Knight of Columbus -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 6:32 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Where on earth is James S Olsen? > I am as happy as anyone on the list for James S Olsen I wonder > if his domain Kofc.org has anything to do with the famous Colonel > Sanders? Can anyone shed any light?. Inquiring minds want to know. > David Brister Dave: Google tells me its the Knights of Columbus Did he take his TR? Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From wbeech at flash.net Tue Aug 14 19:27:17 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 19:27:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] best way to ship from UK to US - suggestions?? freight forwarders?? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070815012718.804ED1879F6@autox.team.net> Do those prices include all of the customs clearance that will be required for you to receive the goods once they get onto US soil? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alain Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 12:40 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] best way to ship from UK to US - suggestions?? freight forwarders?? I am trying to bring in some hard to find stateside parts from the UK. Shipping quote from DHL = $129 insurance included Shipping quote from Fedex economy = $169 insurance included Shipment value = $240 weights = 8.8lbs, 4kg Whoaaa.... does anyone, who ships often, know any other more economical methods?? Freight forwarders, or other suggestions, short of a plane ticket to the UK to retrieve them. Thanks, Alain -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/953 - Release Date: 8/14/2007 5:19 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/953 - Release Date: 8/14/2007 5:19 PM From DLylis at aol.com Tue Aug 14 19:42:35 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 21:42:35 EDT Subject: [TR] trailing arm shims Message-ID: I would not worry about it. Just take the car for a front and rear alignment. After doing suspension work you should get it aligned anyway. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Aug 14 19:58:41 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 18:58:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] How many listers does it take to change a light bulb ? (was James S Olson is out of the office) (no LBC content) In-Reply-To: <04b101c7ded0$da7bf8b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: <01f901c7de9c$74f81bb0$6402a8c0@GALLERYOFFICE2><46C23795.1090807@frontiernet.net><010801c7dece$6908c480$0600a8c0@Dell9200> <04b101c7ded0$da7bf8b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: Does anal retentive really need to be hyphenated? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 5:11 PM Subject: [TR] How many listers does it take to change a light bulb ? (was James S Olson is out of the office) (no LBC content) > > another 6 to condemn those 6 as anal-retentive; From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 14 20:00:49 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 22:00:49 EDT Subject: [TR] White smoke out the tail pipe Message-ID: In a message dated 8/14/2007 7:16:07 PM Central Daylight Time, boggiano at charter.net writes: > My TR4 seems to have developed a large whiteish plume of smoke from the > tail > pipe, most evident on acceleration but it seems like it is always there. > Oil pressure is fine 70 at speed 40-50 at idle when warm. Oil looks clean > when > I changed it tonight. Compression is fine at each of the cylinders > It does seem to be "loosing" cooling antifreeze but there is no leak or > puddle > I hate to say this but does "head gasket leak" mean anything? The "smoke may very well be steam and that is where the missing coolant is going. You might try retorquing the head. A worse thought is a cracked head but let's not go there. Dave Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 14 20:02:09 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 22:02:09 EDT Subject: [TR] How many listers does it take to change a light bulb ? (was James S ... Message-ID: In a message dated 8/14/2007 8:59:30 PM Central Daylight Time, ahwahnee at cybertrails.com writes: > Does anal retentive really need to be hyphenated? > And how do you spell apathy? Aw, who cares? Dave From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Aug 14 20:03:30 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 19:03:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] White smoke out the tail pipe In-Reply-To: <003f01c7ded1$6a3dbab0$6501a8c0@na01.crl.com> References: <003f01c7ded1$6a3dbab0$6501a8c0@na01.crl.com> Message-ID: <1817A6C946A04457A88F038A5517A831@GeoPC> My recent blown head gasket caused a noticeable coolant loss with only slight evidence at the tailpipe. Main thing I noticed was that I could detect the sweet smell of anti-freeze in the exhaust. You might try a sniff test. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "tab" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 5:15 PM Subject: [TR] White smoke out the tail pipe > TR List > My TR4 seems to have developed a large whiteish plume of smoke from the > tail > pipe... It does seem to be "loosing" cooling antifreeze but there is no > leak or puddle... From timipurdy at citlink.net Tue Aug 14 21:12:02 2007 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 20:12:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Many Thanks Message-ID: <00e901c7deea$0e3f4710$02fea8c0@Lahontan> I just want to say a big thank you to everyone, who has helped me and others since 2001 when I bought my 64 TR4. The knowledge shared by every one is just tremendous, and very much appreciated. Tim Purdy Susanville, CA From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Aug 14 23:01:54 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 01:01:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] How many listers does it take to change a light bulb ? (was James S Olson is out of the office) (no LBC content) In-Reply-To: References: <04b101c7ded0$da7bf8b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <46C25082.10032.227A4FA4@localhost> On 14 Aug 2007 at 18:58, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > Does anal retentive really need to be hyphenated? Ask Jimmy Olsen when he gets back. He knows everything. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.17/951 - Release Date: 8/13/2007 10:15 AM From dkspence at telus.net Tue Aug 14 23:55:33 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 23:55:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] White smoke out the tail pipe In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E3FD782-FE7F-48EF-9E66-36AD49D95091@telus.net> Blown head gasket. White smoke (steam) and coolant loss with no apparent leaks says it all. Oil burns "blue". Running rich smokes black. Coolant in the combustion chambers "smokes" white. Drain the oil immediately. Do a leak down test. Order a top end gasket set and pull the head. On Aug 14, 2007, at 7:59 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "tab" > Date: August 14, 2007 6:15:41 PM MDT (CA) > To: > Subject: [TR] White smoke out the tail pipe > > > TR List > My TR4 seems to have developed a large whiteish plume of smoke from > the tail > pipe, most evident on acceleration but it seems like it is always > there. > Oil pressure is fine 70 at speed 40-50 at idle when warm. Oil looks > clean when > I changed it tonight. Compression is fine at each of the cylinders > It does seem to be "loosing" cooling antifreeze but there is no > leak or puddle > > Other than the smoke which concerns me as something new it seems to > be running > acceptably. > > So before I go more in-depth where should I start looking there is > still > plenty of driving time this season which I would hate to loose but > dont want > to damage anything too badly > > Thanks > Tom From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Wed Aug 15 04:02:19 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 06:02:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer References: Message-ID: <001d01c7df23$5e8d0ca0$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> And to quote Carter quoting Rick Cline "after all that work, I couldn't tell the difference on the racetrack ...". It's there, like it is in virtually every car. And like virtually every car, it's not a big issue. Even 4x4 pickup trucks, which tend to have remarkably horrible bump steer. It's caused by suspension motion. So the easy and very effective band-aid is to limit suspension motion. Most easily done with stiff springs. Not that these cars had a lot of suspension travel anyways. There's nothing unique about the GT6 front suspension compared to the Spitfire. So beware of an article that says something about it being a GT6 problem, but not a Spitfire problem. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 7:51 PM Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer >I have read several articles on the fact that the GT6 has bump steer based > on the location of the steering arms in relation to the chassis. Has > anyone > found a cure for this? I am about to look into the issue now that I have > the > chassis finished and painted. Imagine 37 years old and only two spots that > rusted through on the outriggers and the rest is sound! > > Greg Wolf > Bridgewater, Michigan > 1970 Triumph GT6+ From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Wed Aug 15 06:06:07 2007 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 08:06:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Where on earth is James S Olsen? References: Message-ID: Maybe the Knights of Columbus sponsors a VTR a chapter, thus our need to know about James' whereabouts. > > Dave: Google tells me its the Knights of Columbus > > > Did he take his TR? From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 15 06:18:28 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 08:18:28 EDT Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer Message-ID: In a message dated 8/15/2007 5:03:04 AM Central Daylight Time, foxtrapper at aceweb.com writes: > It's caused by suspension motion. So the easy and very effective band-aid > is to limit suspension motion. Most easily done with stiff springs. Not > that these cars had a lot of suspension travel anyways. > Correct me if I am wrong but isn't bump steer the result of the one end of the tie rod, connected to the steering arm on the vertical link, moves up and down with the suspension while the other end, connected to the steering rack which does not move, remains stationary (in relation to the car) causing the angle of the tie rod to change and hence the horizontal distance (which is the cosine of the angle) between the tie rod end on the rack and the tie rod end on the steering arm to change? (talk about a run-on sentence!) The only solution is to make the tie rod as long as possible making the angle change due to suspension movement less. But that is not practical in our cars. I had a 1987 Audi 5000 (horrible car, broke every month) that had the steering rack mounted high on the firewall. The rack tie rods connected to a knuckle on the rack located near the center of the car. This meant the tie rods were almost half the width of the car reducing bump steer as much as practical. But this is not a viable option on a Triumph. The best bet is to get a good alignment so that bump steer effects both sides equally. Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Aug 15 06:53:58 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 12:53:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer In-Reply-To: <001d01c7df23$5e8d0ca0$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: Bump steer is created by the tie rod end not traveling in the same arc as the outboard ends of the a-arms. There are ways to adjust bump steer. The most common way is to heat and bent the steering lever. Caution here to let the lever coll naturally after heating. Quenching the lever after heating will increase the probability of fractures. In some applications bump steer can be adjusted by adding washers to the union between the tie rod end and the steering lever. This raises the height of the tie rod end. In most cases factory bump steer is not significant enough to create normal driving difficulties. Adjustment of bump steer to zero is for competition cars on paved tracks. Best regards, Tom >From: "Nolan" >To: , >Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer >Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 06:02:19 -0400 > >And to quote Carter quoting Rick Cline "after all that work, I couldn't >tell >the difference on the racetrack ...". >It's there, like it is in virtually every car. And like virtually every >car, it's not a big issue. Even 4x4 pickup trucks, which tend to have >remarkably horrible bump steer. > >It's caused by suspension motion. So the easy and very effective band-aid >is to limit suspension motion. Most easily done with stiff springs. Not >that these cars had a lot of suspension travel anyways. > >There's nothing unique about the GT6 front suspension compared to the >Spitfire. So beware of an article that says something about it being a >GT6 >problem, but not a Spitfire problem. > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: ; >Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 7:51 PM >Subject: [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer > > > >I have read several articles on the fact that the GT6 has bump steer >based > > on the location of the steering arms in relation to the chassis. Has > > anyone > > found a cure for this? I am about to look into the issue now that I have > > the > > chassis finished and painted. Imagine 37 years old and only two spots >that > > rusted through on the outriggers and the rest is sound! > > > > Greg Wolf > > Bridgewater, Michigan > > 1970 Triumph GT6+ >_______________________________________________ >tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _________________________________________________________________ Learn.Laugh.Share. Reallivemoms is right place! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From mmarr at notwires.com Wed Aug 15 07:38:26 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 08:38:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] How many listers does it take to change a light bulb ? (was James S Olson is out of the office) (no LBC content) References: <01f901c7de9c$74f81bb0$6402a8c0@GALLERYOFFICE2><46C23795.1090807@frontiernet.net><010801c7dece$6908c480$0600a8c0@Dell9200><04b101c7ded0$da7bf8b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <003f01c7df41$8fb3ebf0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > Does anal retentive really need to be hyphenated? > I had to chuckle because the next message in my mailbox after reading Geo's comment was entitled "White smoke out the tail pipe" Mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 15 11:32:29 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 10:32:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005c01c7df62$413dd9b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Correct me if I am wrong but isn't bump steer the result of > the one end of > the tie rod, connected to the steering arm on the vertical > link, moves up and > down with the suspension while the other end, connected to > the steering rack > which does not move, remains stationary (in relation to the > car) causing the > angle of the tie rod to change and hence the horizontal > distance (which is the > cosine of the angle) between the tie rod end on the rack and > the tie rod end on > the steering arm to change? (talk about a run-on sentence!) Well, not quite. When the suspension moves, it moves through an arc. If the tie rod follows the same arc as the steering lever, then it's effective length will not change. Since one end obviously follows the lever, the other end needs to be at the effective center of the arc. If memory serves, bump steer can also be caused by changes in camber as the suspension moves. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 15 11:48:23 2007 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 12:48:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer In-Reply-To: <005c01c7df62$413dd9b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: Ok, I'm confused, exactly what happens when your car has a "bump steer" problem? Is this when the steering wheel is jerked out of my hands when I hit a pot hole? Or is it too subtle of a problem on a street car to even describe what happens. Bob Berger 78 Spitfire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 15 12:04:09 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 11:04:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer In-Reply-To: References: <005c01c7df62$413dd9b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <006001c7df66$ad8d5f10$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Ok, I'm confused, exactly what happens when your car has a > "bump steer" problem? That's when hitting a bump with one wheel causes the car to turn, even though you've kept a firm grasp on the steering wheel (and kept it from turning). No idea how bad or good it is on a GT6, but usually it's not the worst problem with a stock suspension; nor usually is it easy to change. And even if you completely eliminate the change in steering angle (which is pretty much impossible), you'll still get some direction change for most bumps, as the tire deflects. IOW, not worth worrying about on the street, IMO; unless you've made other changes that aggravated the problem (like lowering the suspension or relocating the steering). Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From skip47 at powernet.net Wed Aug 15 14:35:18 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 13:35:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer References: Message-ID: <007e01c7df7b$cc9a8a80$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Bob Berger wrote: > Ok, I'm confused, exactly what happens when your car has a "bump steer" > problem? Is this when the steering wheel is jerked out of my hands when I > hit a pot hole? Or is it too subtle of a problem on a street car to even > describe what happens. > I bought a book some years ago entitled "How to Make Your Car Handle" by Fred Puhn. He dedicates several pages to bump steer, including the following: "Adjusting bump steer is an advanced suspension-tuning technique and often makes the difference between average and outstanding handling.... Bump steer is the change in toe setting as the wheels move up and down." The book describes an inexpensive way to check and adjust bump steer without fancy tools, in your own garage. I did it, and found the adjustments were easy, involving shims under the steering rack mounts. It took less than an hour to build the gauge (two sheets of plywood and a piano hinge plus two nails), and a few hours to do the job, including removing springs so the suspension could be moved up and down. If you can find the book, buy it. It's got lots of good information and PICTURES so even I can understand, including a TR6 showing lots of body roll in a slalom, a Spitfire showing the rear wheels tucking in under hard braking, and another Spitfire leading a Mini at Riverside. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 65 TR4A 70 TVR From bill.anderson at windstream.net Wed Aug 15 15:27:35 2007 From: bill.anderson at windstream.net (Bill Anderson) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 17:27:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Electrics Message-ID: <000001c7df83$19499130$4bdcb390$@anderson@windstream.net> I found this on another list and thought I'd share The Lucas Motto: "Get home before dark" How did Joseph Lucas die? He used one of his own pacemakers. Lucas holds patents on the short circuit. A Lucas switch has three positions - Dim, Flicker and Off. Engineering discovered the new design was shorting out, so they made the wires longer. Back in the 70's, Lucas manufactured vacuum cleaners. It was the only product they offered that did not suck. Lucas Electrics - The original anti-theft device. Why do the British drink warm beer? Because Lucas makes their refrigerators. From DLylis at aol.com Wed Aug 15 16:12:55 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 18:12:55 EDT Subject: [TR] Where on earth is James S Olsen? Message-ID: He is on assignment with Clark Kent and Lois Lane. Now, let's move on to something else. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 15 16:42:15 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 18:42:15 EDT Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer Message-ID: In a message dated 8/15/2007 12:33:00 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Well, not quite. When the suspension moves, it moves through an arc. If > the tie rod follows the same arc as the steering lever, then it's effective > length will not change. Since one end obviously follows the lever, the > other end needs to be at the effective center of the arc. > > If memory serves, bump steer can also be caused by changes in camber as the > suspension moves. > Now that makes sense. However if the wheel is turned the effective length of the arc followed by the tie rod is changed. The arm on the vertical length will move either away from the pivot or towards it. Obviously it is optimized at the straight ahead position but deviates from that optimized configuration as the wheel is turned. Dave (Apologies for the lack of tedious disclaimer) From trglory at comcast.net Wed Aug 15 18:21:38 2007 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 20:21:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Electrics In-Reply-To: <000001c7df83$19499130$4bdcb390$@anderson@windstream.net> References: <000001c7df83$19499130$4bdcb390$@anderson@windstream.net> Message-ID: <003f01c7df9b$6a63f890$3f2be9b0$@net> Bill Anderson wrote: "How did Joseph Lucas die? He used one of his own pacemakers." I just want the list to know that I have had a Lucas pacemaker for years and never had a prob........ No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/953 - Release Date: 8/14/2007 5:19 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Aug 15 18:37:50 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 20:37:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Billeted Components Message-ID: <000a01c7df9d$aed48010$210110ac@bobspc> If you're in to custom made nice shiny billeted aluminum components, this guy (http://www.tr6car11.bravehost.com/index.html) has a bunch that he sells on his site and on eBay. Not only does he do aluminum but he can machine "any color copolymer Delrin Plastic". Poke around his site and you'll find everything from 11 inch Ventilated Lockheed Rotors with Wilwood 4 piston calipers for a TR6 to a Hot Pink Polyethelyne Rear Differential Mounting Kit! He's also got a nice looking TR6 race car for sale. Anyone know him or is he on the list? NFI..... Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.483 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/953 - Release Date: 8/14/2007 5:19 PM From TR6UO at aol.com Wed Aug 15 18:40:31 2007 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 20:40:31 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas Electrics Message-ID: In a message dated 8/15/2007 2:27:58 PM Pacific Daylight Time, bill.anderson at windstream.net writes: The Lucas Motto: "Get home before dark" I think the exact phrase was: "A gentleman doesn't motor after dark" It's also rumored that he was the unwitting inventor of the intermittent wiper. sh ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From boggiano at charter.net Wed Aug 15 20:11:33 2007 From: boggiano at charter.net (tab) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 22:11:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 4 White smoke out the tail pipe - Follow up /Update References: <4E3FD782-FE7F-48EF-9E66-36AD49D95091@telus.net> Message-ID: <001501c7dfaa$c43d1400$6501a8c0@na01.crl.com> I pulled the head this evening (broke a head stud in the process so I will have to attend to that). The head itself, (valves, seats...) looks fairly good. There is definitely something going on in the third cylinder it was quite wet as compared to the remainder of them. The rest just have a light coat of carbon on them. It also has what looks like metal solder on the top of the piston. You can see it here, http://webpages.charter.net/boggiano/photo.htm Any idea what it could be? Part of the head gasket? It is stuck on the piston and does not seem like it will go anywhere easily. Does this mean that I need to go further down into the engine? All help appreciated Thanks Tom From: "tab" Date: August 14, 2007 6:15:41 PM MDT (CA) To: Subject: [TR] White smoke out the tail pipe TR List My TR4 seems to have developed a large whiteish plume of smoke from the tail pipe, most evident on acceleration but it seems like it is always there. Oil pressure is fine 70 at speed 40-50 at idle when warm. Oil looks clean when I changed it tonight. Compression is fine at each of the cylinders It does seem to be "loosing" cooling antifreeze but there is no leak or puddle Other than the smoke which concerns me as something new it seems to be running acceptably. So before I go more in-depth where should I start looking there is still plenty of driving time this season which I would hate to loose but dont want to damage anything too badly Thanks Tom From dorpaul at negia.net Wed Aug 15 20:28:18 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 22:28:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Electrics References: Message-ID: <06a401c7dfad$1d50cf80$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> The homegrown auto-electrician who rebuilt starters, generators, etc. (from the 60's to present) told me how 'dependable' Lucas starters were. I'm conflicted...please enlighten me...um, encandle me? Paul From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Wed Aug 15 20:30:06 2007 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 22:30:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] spring shop in the DC area? Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F62625C@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> Howdy all: I need to have the leaf springs on one of my LBCs re-arched -- the tail end of the car sits up a bit too high. Can anyone recommend a good spring shop in the greater DC area? Thanks! NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From fishplate at charter.net Wed Aug 15 20:33:07 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 22:33:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Latches Message-ID: <20070816023247.VLHM7864.aa03.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> I have a 1975 TR6, and I'm trying to fix some of the smaller annoyances. Right now, it's doors rattling. The door strike has a pin which goes into the latch mechanism. It seems like this is the logical place to put a rubber snubber, but I can't find anything in the usual catalogs... Are there any solutions for the door latch being somewhat loose? TIA, Jeff Scarbrough Athens, Ga. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/953 - Release Date: 8/14/2007 5:19 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Aug 15 20:41:07 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 22:41:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer In-Reply-To: <005c01c7df62$413dd9b0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: Message-ID: <46C38103.15551.271FC6B0@localhost> On 15 Aug 2007 at 10:32, Randall wrote: > When the suspension moves, it moves through an arc... > If memory serves, bump steer can also be caused by changes in > camber as the suspension moves. Indeed the question of camber change is essential to the subject. The upper and lower A-arms are (almost) never the same length. The upper is generally shorter so that the top of the spindle carrier (i.e. the upper ball joint) moves in a circle with smaller radius than the lower (i.e the trunnion). The inner ends are positioned so that the camber is at spec when the car is at normal ride height. But when the suspension moves either up or down the upper ball joint moves inward more than the lower, resulting in more negative camber. This compensates somewhat for the fact that the car body leans to the outside of a turn, keeping the outer wheel more vertical. As the inside wheel moves down in the suspension it leans more to the outside of the turn, but since it carries less vertical load it doesn't reduce the cornering by much. So the question of bump steer really depends on the vertical positioning vs. length of the tie rod. Suppose the A-arm mounts were parallel and perfectly longitudinal. For simplicity suppose that the inner tie rod end is in the same vertical plane as those two pivots, and the outer end is directly in front of a vertical line between the ball joint and trunnion. If it is at the same height and is the same length as the lower A-arm, vertical movement of the suspension will make the tie rod swing in the same arc as the lower A-arm, so no bump steer will occur. But what if it is higher? A point on the spindle carrier midway between the top and bottom will travel in an arc with radius shorter than the bottom arc but larger than the top arc. So the tie rod needs to be a length between them too. Also if the A- arms are (let us suppose) horizontal when the suspension is at rest but the tie rod points down or up because the inner and outer ends aren't at the same height, then the outer end cannot possibly track the same arc that any part of the steering axis will, so bump steer could be serious. There there are the cars with upper and lower A- arm pivots not parallel, so as to produce caster change too but... Aw heck, it's too hard to explain in words. Moving pictures would be some much more informative. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/953 - Release Date: 8/14/2007 5:19 PM From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Aug 15 20:43:05 2007 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 21:43:05 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] spring shop in the DC area? Message-ID: <15637805.8204171187232186121.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net> Bill, I would call Motorhead in Fairfax VA or MountJoy's in Hyatsville MD and ask for a reference, they would definitely point you in the right direction. I have used both shops. Good luck, Craig >From: "Steinman, Bill" >Date: 2007/08/15 Wed PM 09:30:06 CDT >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: [TR] spring shop in the DC area? >Howdy all: > >I need to have the leaf springs on one of my LBCs re-arched -- the tail end of >the car sits up a bit too high. Can anyone recommend a good spring shop in >the greater DC area? Thanks! > > >NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential >information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have >received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, >disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the >sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy >you received. > >IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required >to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment >hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties >imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. > >Thank you. >_______________________________________________ >thenicholls at verizon.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Aug 15 21:18:51 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 23:18:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Electrics In-Reply-To: <06a401c7dfad$1d50cf80$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <46C389DB.31930.537E7@localhost> On 15 Aug 2007 at 22:28, Paul Dorsey wrote: > The homegrown auto-electrician who rebuilt starters, generators, etc. (from > the 60's to present) told me how 'dependable' Lucas starters were. I'm > conflicted...please enlighten me...um, encandle me? Well, the starter in my Spitfire has been working fine for 20 years. Of course, I use it only a few seconds each time I drive the car. On the other hand, my Fiats had starter problems. As did my Porsche. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/953 - Release Date: 8/14/2007 5:19 PM From mlang at easystreet.com Wed Aug 15 22:43:49 2007 From: mlang at easystreet.com (Beth Lang) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 21:43:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Regrinding TR3 lifters? In-Reply-To: <46C133D6.8080903@easystreet.com> References: <46C133D6.8080903@easystreet.com> Message-ID: <46C3D605.3020604@easystreet.com> Thanks all for the feedback on regrinding lifters. I have decided to give it a try. I dropped my cam and lifters off at Oregon Cam Grinding earlier today. Very nice to talk to! The main warning that they had is related to the zinc content in modern motor oils. I need to keep my costs low if I want to get my car back on the road in the near future. I am just doing the basics to the engine at this time. Rings, bearings, valve grind, cam grind and timing chain. If it lasts 40K miles I will be happy. I have a second engine on which I plan to do more of a performance rebuild for in the future. Mike > I am getting ready to drop my TR3 camshaft off at Oregon Cam Grinding > Inc. to have a stock profile regrind done on it. Normally I would > install new lifters on a reground cam, but I have read so many negative > things about the lifters that are currently available. The folks at > Oregon Cam Grinding say that they can regrind my old lifters to the > proper profile for $4 each. I have done some searches but haven't found > much discussion regarding regrinding old factory TR3 lifters. Has anyone > had any good or bad experiences with having lifters reground? > > Thanks, > > Mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 15 23:09:36 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 22:09:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas Electrics Message-ID: <2673734.1187240976748.JavaMail.root@web11.mail.adelphia.net> ---- Paul Dorsey wrote: > The homegrown auto-electrician who rebuilt starters, generators, etc. (from > the 60's to present) told me how 'dependable' Lucas starters were. I'm > conflicted...please enlighten me...um, encandle me? Most of them were actually pretty good. Just look at how many of them are still around, 50 years later ! Even the "Achilles heel" of the TR2-early 3A starter, the bonded rubber drive, is mostly a problem after people start modifying the engines, IMO. I never had one fail, until I built an engine with 87mm liners and 11:1 compression; then they started dropping like flies. It even killed one of the "fail safe" replacements sold (at one time) by BFE. Of course, like everything else on these cars, they do require maintenance. Brushes and bushings are consumables, it's normal to replace them from time to time. Randall From dkspence at telus.net Thu Aug 16 00:25:55 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 00:25:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR 4 White smoke out the tail pipe - Follow up /Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You should have drained the block before removing the head. (water jackets are full of antifreeze.) The bits could be pieces of piston ring. On Aug 15, 2007, at 8:41 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "tab" > Date: August 15, 2007 8:11:33 PM MDT (CA) > To: > Subject: [TR] TR 4 White smoke out the tail pipe - Follow up /Update > > > I pulled the head this evening (broke a head stud in the process so > I will > have to attend to that). The head itself, (valves, seats...) looks > fairly > good. > There is definitely something going on in the third cylinder it was > quite wet > as compared to the remainder of them. The rest just have a light > coat of > carbon on them. > > It also has what looks like metal solder on the top of the piston. > You can see > it here, > http://webpages.charter.net/boggiano/photo.htm > > Any idea what it could be? Part of the head gasket? It is stuck on > the piston > and does not seem like it will go anywhere easily. > > Does this mean that I need to go further down into the engine? > > All help appreciated From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Aug 16 04:40:04 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 06:40:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer References: <46C38103.15551.271FC6B0@localhost> Message-ID: <001801c7dff1$d2415d80$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Love the way this list server only puts occasional posts of mine up. Grr! Here's link to a simple picture showing bump steer. http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f48/fox-trapper/Spitfire/bumpsteer.jpg?t=1187259934 Simply put, bump steer happens when things don't move the same. The suspension arms go around one arc, and the steering rod goes around a different arc. So the tires turn from side to side as the wheels go over a bump. Fact, you cannot eliminate bump steer. Before you jump up and down screaming "oh yes you can", read on. All the focus in this thread on bump steer has been for straight ahead driving. You can eliminate it for that condition...sometimes. But cars turn. As soon as you turn the steering wheel you move the tie rod ends out of position, and bump steer comes right back. The tighter you turn, the more bump steer you get. That's just basic geometry when it comes to cars front suspensions and steering. How bad bump steer is depends on the design of the suspension and the steering components. Something like a Spitfire with a double wishbone suspension and rack type steering gear isn't that bad when it comes to bump steer. A McPherson strut suspension is much worse. Steering box and relay rod types of steering can be remarkably bad, just watch a 4x4 truck twisting around offroad some time to see this one. Bump steer is directly related to suspension motion. The less a suspension moves, the less bump steer there is, no matter how bad the geometry. From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Thu Aug 16 04:46:15 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 06:46:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 4 White smoke out the tail pipe - Follow up /Update References: <4E3FD782-FE7F-48EF-9E66-36AD49D95091@telus.net> <001501c7dfaa$c43d1400$6501a8c0@na01.crl.com> Message-ID: <001f01c7dff2$abe0e1f0$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> 'taint rings. Rings are steel or iron, while pistons are aluminum. You melt a piston off long before you melt rings. Zooming in on that picture it looks to me like I'm seeing a melted and pitted piston. Just what I'd expect to see from detonation. What you're seeing as splashed on top solder of the piston is in fact piston metal, from the pits cut into the piston. I would not continue to use that piston myself. You do not inherently need to tear down and completely rebuild the engine for a piston replacement. But since you're pulling the pan off to replace that piston, you might as well inspect the bearings. And at that point, you start to wonder if perhaps a total inspection and overhaul isn't warranted. ----- Original Message ----- From: "tab" To: Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 10:11 PM Subject: [TR] TR 4 White smoke out the tail pipe - Follow up /Update >I pulled the head this evening (broke a head stud in the process so I will > have to attend to that). The head itself, (valves, seats...) looks fairly > good. > There is definitely something going on in the third cylinder it was quite > wet > as compared to the remainder of them. The rest just have a light coat of > carbon on them. > > It also has what looks like metal solder on the top of the piston. You can > see > it here, > http://webpages.charter.net/boggiano/photo.htm > > Any idea what it could be? Part of the head gasket? It is stuck on the > piston > and does not seem like it will go anywhere easily. From KingR44916 at aol.com Thu Aug 16 05:07:28 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 07:07:28 EDT Subject: [TR] front suspension Message-ID: just rebuilt the front suspension with new springs from moss can't believe how high the front is hope it goes down alittle i can see the top of the shock tower ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From DLylis at aol.com Thu Aug 16 05:28:44 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 07:28:44 EDT Subject: [TR] front suspension Message-ID: How did they compare in unladen height to the ones that came off? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Chip19474 at aol.com Thu Aug 16 05:56:01 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 07:56:01 EDT Subject: [TR] TR 4 White smoke out the tail pipe - Follow up /Update Message-ID: In a message dated 8/15/2007 7:12:12 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, boggiano at charter.net writes: There is definitely something going on in the third cylinder it was quite wet as compared to the remainder of them. Tom, Other than the valves, valve guides and spark plugs there aren't too many other sources of little balls of molten metal as seen in your pics. When pistons fail from events like detonation or connecting rod failure, they usually deposit chunks of aluminum on the piston top. These little pieces look like they came from valves or guides. Whether the cylinder is "wet" from unburned fuel or coolant, I think you need to address the head and also check the block deck for true flat across the deck....of course, check the cylinder walls for scoring, etc. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Chip19474 at aol.com Thu Aug 16 06:06:58 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 08:06:58 EDT Subject: [TR] front suspension Message-ID: In a message dated 8/16/2007 4:08:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, KingR44916 at aol.com writes: can't believe how high the front is hope it goes down alittle Did you compare spring heights between the old springs and new springs before installation? I've seen spring heights vary between vendors and, if you're not expecting the outcome, the ride height can be surprisingly different! Another trick that worked for my TR6 is to purposely not strongly tighten the upper control arm bushing nuts and the lower control arm bushing bolts after you rebuild the suspension. Let the car come down on the suspension and actually drive it for a few miles to allow the bushings to seat then tighten all of the bolts/nuts. Of course if your ride height is really off a lot this won't compensate completely for the spring height difference. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 16 06:12:33 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 08:12:33 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas Electrics Message-ID: In a message dated 8/15/2007 9:28:38 PM Central Daylight Time, dorpaul at negia.net writes: > The homegrown auto-electrician who rebuilt starters, generators, etc. (from > > the 60's to present) told me how 'dependable' Lucas starters were. I'm > conflicted...please enlighten me...um, encandle me? > Don't argue with the man, he has many years of experience. If Lucas starters were unreliable he would know about it by the returns. Also bear in mind that most problems with the Lucas stuff is connector related, not component related. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 16 06:15:58 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 08:15:58 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Latches Message-ID: In a message dated 8/15/2007 9:36:59 PM Central Daylight Time, fishplate at charter.net writes: > I have a 1975 TR6, and I'm trying to fix some of the smaller > annoyances. Right now, it's doors rattling. The door strike has a > pin which goes into the latch mechanism. It seems like this is the > logical place to put a rubber snubber, but I can't find anything in > the usual catalogs... > > Are there any solutions for the door latch being somewhat loose? > I cured my door rattles with a new draft excluder (the rubber kept the door tight so it would not rattle) and new window felts (in the window glides). Making the door latch tight could easily lead to a sticky door. Dave From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Aug 16 07:46:26 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 09:46:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Electrics In-Reply-To: <06a401c7dfad$1d50cf80$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <06a401c7dfad$1d50cf80$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8C9AE22FA02C2E4-E5C-8A0@mblk-d33.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Paul Dorsey The homegrown auto-electrician who rebuilt starters, generators, etc. (from the 60's to present) told me how 'dependable' Lucas starters were. I'm conflicted...please enlighten me...um, encandle me? ==AM== As examples, I did have to have the original generator in my '62 Herald rebuilt a couple of years ago. And I also had to pull out the original starter after the bolts holding it loosened up and the drive got busted/jammed. It still spins fine, and I'll have it repaired sometime soon; meanwhile, I threw in another starter that was lying around in the barn (that starter is only about 35 years old). My '52 Mayflower has its original starter and generator as well. In nearly 40 years of driving Triumphs, the electrical components have -- by far -- been the least of my problems. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Thu Aug 16 07:58:15 2007 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 09:58:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Message-ID: On 15 Aug 2007 at 22:28, Paul Dorsey wrote: > The homegrown auto-electrician who rebuilt starters, generators, etc. (from > the 60's to present) told me how 'dependable' Lucas starters were. I'm > conflicted...please enlighten me...um, encandle me? Well, the starter in my Spitfire has been working fine for 20 years. Of course, I use it only a few seconds each time I drive the car. On the other hand, my Fiats had starter problems. As did my Porsche. -- Jim Muller You raise a good point, Jim. I've just replaced the starter on my Lexus, its not long since I shelled-out on one for our Chrysler. Both are mere babes compared to my TR4 (45 years-old next month) which is still running its original equipment: starter, generator, loom, and light fittings some 87,000 miles later. Jokes aside about the Prince of Darkness, Lucas operated throughout the last century supplying equipment to aircraft manufacturers (civilian and military) as well as automotive manufacturers. The quality of components required by automotive manufacturers was probably determined by the cost stipulations of companies like Triumph. Auto manufacturers demanded low cost parts, with ramifications on quality. Its is probably not an unreasonable assumption that the quality, rather than cost, was a key consideration in aircraft. Lucas met the needs of both industries. My observation, and its not limited to Lucas, is that if you experience electrical difficulties, suspect a poor ground before expending any effort seeking other solutions. If grounding is the issue, it is often a concern of assembly as much as componentry. The American joke about Lucas making refrigerators being the reason why us Brits drink warm beer (actually it's cellar temperature, around 55 Degs Fahrenheit), always makes me smile. It reminds me that, unlike American beer, British Ale needn't be chilled to the point of freezing in order to hold it in your mouth long enough to swallow it. Brian Jones From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Aug 16 08:23:58 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 10:23:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Message-ID: <013b01c7e011$15eda470$7f167247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Lucas electrics failing are mainly the act of the owners, open the bonnet and just look at how many wires are improperly spliced with a small amount of tape holding them together, look at all the differnt colored wires (none of which match the original), the electricals are the least known and most neglected parts on our cars, when Pete down at Jiffy-Lube changes the oil he does not tighten connections, check for shorts or blown fuses as you "should" be doing at home, he changes the oil and that's all he was asked to do, remember most of our cars were purchased by dad while you were in college and used as wash & wear or "throwaways" (maintenance, what's that) now you expect electrical parts to be a life time of trouble free usage, no way. In every town across the country you have more auto parts stores than new car dealerships and "yes" the Honda, Toyota, G.M. and Ford dealers all carry replacement alternators and starters, including 2007 models, and just think our LBC's are just over 50 years old with "Lucas" still performimg. "FT" From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Thu Aug 16 08:42:18 2007 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 07:42:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] front suspension Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0BA45013@kb1.mossmotors.com> May I suggest that your old springs are sagged as a result of age, and what you are seeing is correct ride height? Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 Daily Driver From spitlist at cox.net Thu Aug 16 08:51:58 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 07:51:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas References: <013b01c7e011$15eda470$7f167247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <003f01c7e014$fefe60c0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I have to respectfully disagree. The main problem I have found with Lucas Electrics have to do with the exposed connectors. They are not protected from the elements and easily develop corrosion that prevents or limits current flow. " If you can't get water through the pipem you can't take a bath!" The rest of the things that they manufactured (starters, generators, motors and so forth) were no worse than the rest of what the world produced at the time. Perhaps even beter in some cases. The common array of mis-matched wires that one finds on some of our cars is typically a result of someone suffering from a corroded connector who replaced the entire circuit rather than just the connector. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "FRED E THOMAS" To: "triumphs" Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 7:23 AM Subject: [TR] Lucas > Lucas electrics failing are mainly the act of the owners, open the bonnet and > just look at how many wires are improperly spliced with a small amount of tape > holding them together, look at all the differnt colored wires (none of which > match the original), the electricals are the least known and most neglected > parts on our cars, when Pete down at Jiffy-Lube changes the oil he does not > tighten connections, check for shorts or blown fuses as you "should" be doing > at home, he changes the oil and that's all he was asked to do, remember most > of our cars were purchased by dad while you were in college and used as wash > & wear or "throwaways" (maintenance, what's that) now you expect electrical > parts to be a life time of trouble free usage, no way. In every town across > the country you have more auto parts stores than new car dealerships and "yes" > the Honda, Toyota, G.M. and Ford dealers all carry replacement alternators and > starters, including 2007 models, and just think our LBC's are just over 50 > years old with "Lucas" still performimg. "FT" From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Aug 16 08:56:12 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 10:56:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] spring shop in the DC area? In-Reply-To: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F62625C@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> Message-ID: >Howdy all: > >I need to have the leaf springs on one of my LBCs re-arched -- the tail end >of >the car sits up a bit too high. Can anyone recommend a good spring shop in >the greater DC area? Thanks! I don't know if it could be considered to be in the Greater D.C. area, but Hagerstown Spring and Axle can do it and are very pleasant to deal with. John From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 16 11:32:04 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 13:32:04 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas Message-ID: In a message dated 8/16/2007 8:59:33 AM Central Daylight Time, Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com writes: > The American joke about Lucas making refrigerators being the reason why us > Brits drink warm beer (actually it's cellar temperature, around 55 Degs > Fahrenheit), always makes me smile. It reminds me that, unlike American > beer, British Ale needn't be chilled to the point of freezing in order to > hold it in your mouth long enough to swallow it. > Spot on. Or, as Satch Carlson, who used to write for Autoweek, said (and I paraphrase since it was many years ago) "It is not true that the British drink warm beer. The Brits drink beer at room temperature. And since the whole country is heated with Lucas furnaces they drink COLD beer. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 16 11:47:04 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 10:47:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas In-Reply-To: <013b01c7e011$15eda470$7f167247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <013b01c7e011$15eda470$7f167247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <00fd01c7e02d$762cdbf0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Lucas electrics failing are mainly the act of the owners, I feel that Triumph bears a certain amount of blame as well. Things like skimping on fuses and relying on mounting screws for grounds are not Lucas' fault. But some things, like the lousy design of the TR6/Stag rear bulb holders, are Lucas' fault. I can't quite imagine a EE approving that design, must've been done by a manager while the engineers were out on strike. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From Lbc.Resto at comcast.net Thu Aug 16 11:52:07 2007 From: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net (Ian) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 13:52:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <008e01c7e02e$29fd44d0$0502a8c0@RAS> As a counterpoint to that, "How is drinking American beer like making out in a row boat? They are both *&%$!^) close to water." -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 1:32 PM To: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas In a message dated 8/16/2007 8:59:33 AM Central Daylight Time, Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com writes: > The American joke about Lucas making refrigerators being the reason why us > Brits drink warm beer (actually it's cellar temperature, around 55 Degs > Fahrenheit), always makes me smile. It reminds me that, unlike American > beer, British Ale needn't be chilled to the point of freezing in order to > hold it in your mouth long enough to swallow it. > Spot on. Or, as Satch Carlson, who used to write for Autoweek, said (and I paraphrase since it was many years ago) "It is not true that the British drink warm beer. The Brits drink beer at room temperature. And since the whole country is heated with Lucas furnaces they drink COLD beer. Dave This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 16 12:26:32 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 11:26:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 4 White smoke out the tail pipe - Follow up /Update In-Reply-To: <001501c7dfaa$c43d1400$6501a8c0@na01.crl.com> References: <4E3FD782-FE7F-48EF-9E66-36AD49D95091@telus.net> <001501c7dfaa$c43d1400$6501a8c0@na01.crl.com> Message-ID: <010401c7e032$f8bef800$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > It also has what looks like metal solder on the top of the > piston. You can see > it here, > http://webpages.charter.net/boggiano/photo.htm > > Any idea what it could be? Part of the head gasket? It is > stuck on the piston > and does not seem like it will go anywhere easily. I'm going to guess that it's FOD of some sort that got sucked into #3. Looks to me like it bounced around for awhile getting pinched between the piston & head (hence what look to my eye like dents between 12:00 and 3:00 in the photo) before finally getting embedded into the piston. Personally, I would want to have that piston out for examination. If there is no other damage and you can successfully get those chunks pried off the top, it might be reusable (depending on how willing you are to take a chance on it). If it was a TR3, I'd suggest just dropping the pan and pulling the piston with the engine still in the car; but it's less work to pull a TR4 engine, so ... Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From dncullig at us.ibm.com Thu Aug 16 12:47:56 2007 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 14:47:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Satch Carlson Message-ID: Dave wrote: >Or, as Satch Carlson, who used to write for Autoweek, said... Unless he was fired since last week (always a possibility), Satch Carlson still writes for Autoweek. He was brought back into the fold a few months back as an occasional col- umnist. I still enjoy reading his stuff. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Thu Aug 16 13:03:20 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 21:03:20 +0200 Subject: [TR] Lucas Electrics References: <06a401c7dfad$1d50cf80$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <8C9AE22FA02C2E4-E5C-8A0@mblk-d33.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <005701c7e038$1d0b78f0$0500a8c0@Study> >The homegrown auto-electrician who rebuilt starters, generators, etc. >from >the 60's to present) told me how 'dependable' Lucas starters were. I'm >conflicted...please enlighten me...um, encandle me? I'm fairly sure that that when I was a young lad, British aeroplanes such as the Meteor and the Sea Hawk which were powered by Rolls Royce Derwent and Nene jet engines used entire Lucas fuel systems including a very sophisticated variable swash plate pump which compensated for barometric and temperature variations, not to mention differences in specific fuel gravity and other things I've now forgotten. These systems kept me and my colleagues out of trouble for many hours. I suspect that a lack of routine maintenance has earned poor old Joe L his "Prince of Darkeness" label for motor cars. My Triumph still has it's original dynamo and starter, rebushed and re-brushed admittedly, but how many listers would like to fly in an aeroplane which had had no maintenance for 40 odd years? Will put flame suit on now. David Brister. !967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 4964 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Aug 16 13:20:28 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 15:20:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Lucas Message-ID: <20070816152028.ADJ67702@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Fred Thomas wrote: > just look at how many wires are improperly spliced with a > small amount of tape holding them together, look at all the > differnt colored wires (none of which match the original) Hey, you're talking about my car! -- Jim Muller From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Aug 16 13:23:15 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 15:23:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Lucas Message-ID: <20070816152315.ADJ68671@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Joe "Fluif" Curry wrote: > The main problem I have found with Lucas Electrics have to > do with the exposed connectors. They are not protected from > the elements and easily develop corrosion that prevents or > limits current flow. And this coming from a man who lives in the desert. Go figure... -- Jim Muller From spamiam at comcast.net Thu Aug 16 13:28:26 2007 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 19:28:26 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lucas Message-ID: <081620071928.18631.46C4A55A0004913F000048C72205886014030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> " If you can't get water through the pipem you can't take a bath!" Hmmmm, I seem to recall that pipems carry fluif, right? -Tony From spitlist at cox.net Thu Aug 16 13:40:54 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 12:40:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas References: <20070816152315.ADJ68671@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <00b801c7e03d$5c7d7060$2d02a8c0@Belkin> The exposed connectors attract Pack Rats. :) Joe (In the midst of Monsoon season) Yes Jim it really does rain in the desert! :) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "triumphs" Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 12:23 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas > Joe "Fluif" Curry wrote: > > The main problem I have found with Lucas Electrics have to > > do with the exposed connectors. They are not protected from > > the elements and easily develop corrosion that prevents or > > limits current flow. > > And this coming from a man who lives in the desert. Go figure... > -- > > Jim Muller > _______________________________________________ > spitlist at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From spitlist at cox.net Thu Aug 16 13:43:58 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 12:43:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas References: <081620071928.18631.46C4A55A0004913F000048C72205886014030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00c801c7e03d$c9d5b000$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Well, The f is by the d key and the m is by the , key so I guess you are right. I keep threatening to get rid of this Windows 98 machine but I have a couple of applications I use on it that would have to be upgraded. So I might have to just quit using the email on this machine. But then, who would provide the fuel for you guys who like to pick apart my typos! :) Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: spamiam at comcast.net To: Triumphs List ; spitlist at cox.net Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 12:28 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas " If you can't get water through the pipem you can't take a bath!" Hmmmm, I seem to recall that pipems carry fluif, right? -Tony From KingR44916 at aol.com Thu Aug 16 13:43:17 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 15:43:17 EDT Subject: [TR] rear fender Message-ID: anyone in the ny area have a right rear fender for sale ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From skip47 at powernet.net Thu Aug 16 13:51:30 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 12:51:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas Electrics References: <06a401c7dfad$1d50cf80$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <009401c7e03e$d87ea0c0$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Paul Dorsey wrote: > The homegrown auto-electrician who rebuilt starters, generators, etc. (from > the 60's to present) told me how 'dependable' Lucas starters were. I'm > conflicted...please enlighten me...um, encandle me? > Paul Why does Lucas have such a bad reputation? There's a story that Joseph Lucas decided that HE would determine how long his products should last, and had his engineers design them so that they would last just that long. If longer, he'd have the parts weakened so they'd fail sooner, and conversely if they died too early, he'd have them improved. Naturally, his idea of what was acceptable life was too short for the customers, hence his reputation for shoddy materials and workmanship. Actually they were not shoddy at all; it was excellent design to a specification dictated by a self-important autocrat who wasn't in tune with the real world. Most manufacturers, Lucas included, have learned that top quality pays better in the long run. Lucas was known for a long time as a manufacturer of reliable military equipment. Maybe the elderly still-servicable TR stuff was military design? Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A 70 TVR From pethier at comcast.net Thu Aug 16 13:52:38 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 19:52:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] rear fender Message-ID: <081620071952.7904.46C4AB060003C47600001EE022007354469D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: KingR44916 at aol.com > anyone in the ny area have a right rear fender for sale A right rear fender for what? From KingR44916 at aol.com Thu Aug 16 13:57:18 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 15:57:18 EDT Subject: [TR] tr6 fender Message-ID: i have a 76 tr6 and i need a right rear fender and possibly a drivers side door i'm in the ny area ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Aug 16 14:17:15 2007 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 16:17:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Electrics In-Reply-To: <009401c7e03e$d87ea0c0$0100a8c0@ZEUS> References: <06a401c7dfad$1d50cf80$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <009401c7e03e$d87ea0c0$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Message-ID: <8C9AE59928A25CC-E5C-230A@mblk-d33.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Skip Gurnee Why does Lucas have such a bad reputation? There's a story that Joseph Lucas decided that HE would determine how long his products should last, and had his engineers design them so that they would last just that long.... ==AM== I suppose there could be some truth to what sounds to be a bit of a legend. But then, Joseph Lucas himself died around 1902, so I doubt he had much personal influence on the design or durability of most of Lucas's automotive components! ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From trbobtr at yahoo.com Thu Aug 16 15:41:13 2007 From: trbobtr at yahoo.com (Bob Rolfes) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 14:41:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Concerning "Satch" Message-ID: <465024.87542.qm@web90612.mail.mud.yahoo.com> You may want to check out this Wikipedia article concerning Satch Carlson..... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bartlett_High_School_(Anchorage,_Alaska) I make no further coment...... --------------------------------- Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 16 16:40:54 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 18:40:54 EDT Subject: [TR] Satch Carlson Message-ID: In a message dated 8/16/2007 1:49:21 PM Central Daylight Time, dncullig at us.ibm.com writes: > Unless he was fired since last week (always a possibility), > Satch Carlson still writes for Autoweek. He was brought > back into the fold a few months back as an occasional col- > umnist. I still enjoy reading his stuff. > He's back?!!! Worth the subscription cost all by himself. Dave From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Aug 16 17:12:58 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 17:12:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? In-Reply-To: <008e01c7e02e$29fd44d0$0502a8c0@RAS> References: <008e01c7e02e$29fd44d0$0502a8c0@RAS> Message-ID: <46C4D9FA.3090809@tscusa.org> Ian wrote: > As a counterpoint to that, "How is drinking American beer like making out in > a row boat? They are both *&%$!^) close to water." > > -- > Ian > 62 TR4 > I'll take exception to that Ian ... I get really good head from "American Beers" :> I hardly think that Yuengling's beers from America's Oldest Brewery taste anything "close to water" with ABV of 4.4 - 5.4 But Seriously, Exactly what IS an "American" Beer? Maybe you have things confused with German Pilsners which are not American at all. Miller, Bud, Coors, Pabst, Old Milwalukee, Schmitts, Shaefers, Iron City, Rolling Rock "American Beers" win gold metals at world beer festivals, and are usually hand crafted Ale recipes for Stouts, Lambics, Trapists, various Lagers, with ABV of 4.5-8%. Best selling beers in Ireland and UK? Miller, Budwiser and Coors, brewed where? Under contract in Ireland and the UK. Most consumed beer in Dublin? Miller Lite ... Cheers!! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Aug 16 18:17:52 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 20:17:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Frank Fisher's Products Message-ID: <000001c7e064$1095e980$210110ac@bobspc> Frank Fisher is one of our List Members who's also quite the machinist. He quietly goes about making a few high quality parts as well as doing some custom work when asked. I've had his fuel pump blanking plate for a few years and he and I worked together on the need for a quality template tool for setting float heights. He got that into production right about the time I converted to TBI and no longer have floats! Bad timing on my part. Then I found out that he also does wheel spacers. I've been running generic spacers on the front ever since I got my Panasports about 8 years ago. The generic ones work OK but you have to be real careful about centering them on your hub or the car drives like the tires are out of balance. Ask me how I know :-) So now I have Frank's spacers and they're a perfect fit. Frank is listed on my main page with the other Creative Triumph Enthusiasts and you can see some of his stuff here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm NFI.... just trying to help a really nice guy. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.11.19/955 - Release Date: 8/15/2007 4:55 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Aug 16 18:21:37 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 20:21:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Lucas Message-ID: <20070816202137.ADK49665@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Joe "Fluif" Curry wrote: > But then, who would provide the fuel for you guys who like > to pick apart my typos! It's fule, Joe, f-u-l-e. How many times do I have to tell you? -- Jim Mullet From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Aug 16 18:28:14 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 17:28:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Concerning "Satch" In-Reply-To: <465024.87542.qm@web90612.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <465024.87542.qm@web90612.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5D884712065E41DFA3B02863BF3E2F59@GeoPC> The closing paren failed to be included in that hot link so it will not work (unless you copy and paste it). This should work: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bartlett_High_School_(Anchorage,_Alaska) I mention it as I think it is worth a read. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Rolfes" To: Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 2:41 PM Subject: [TR] Concerning "Satch" > You may want to check out this Wikipedia article concerning Satch > Carlson..... > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bartlett_High_School_(Anchorage,_Alaska) > > I make no further coment...... From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Aug 16 18:55:12 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 19:55:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lucas References: Message-ID: <007c01c7e069$4841fae0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > The American joke about Lucas making refrigerators being the reason why us > Brits drink warm beer (actually it's cellar temperature, around 55 Degs > Fahrenheit), always makes me smile. It reminds me that, unlike American > beer, British Ale needn't be chilled to the point of freezing in order to > hold it in your mouth long enough to swallow it. > Here, Here! The sad thing is, when I go home I see more and more young people drinking Miller Lite and Bud! Sacrilege! Mike (ex-pat) From jimbpps at cox.net Thu Aug 16 19:17:05 2007 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 18:17:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 4 White smoke out the tail pipe - Follow up /Update In-Reply-To: <001501c7dfaa$c43d1400$6501a8c0@na01.crl.com> References: <4E3FD782-FE7F-48EF-9E66-36AD49D95091@telus.net> <001501c7dfaa$c43d1400$6501a8c0@na01.crl.com> Message-ID: <343685E59E8C468A99145D18AB1573D7@JimofficePC> I pretty much agree with what has been said by others. One thing that I see in the photo is what looks to me like orange silicon gasket sealer in the water passage between the two cylinders. In my opinion, if that is what it is, I would tear down the whole engine and hot tank it to get rid of that stuff! It is not good to have inside an engine! Jim, Ex-TR3 owner for many, many years! Jim Bauder '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jimbpps=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tab Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 7:12 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR 4 White smoke out the tail pipe - Follow up /Update I pulled the head this evening (broke a head stud in the process so I will have to attend to that). The head itself, (valves, seats...) looks fairly good. There is definitely something going on in the third cylinder it was quite wet as compared to the remainder of them. The rest just have a light coat of carbon on them. It also has what looks like metal solder on the top of the piston. You can see it here, http://webpages.charter.net/boggiano/photo.htm Any idea what it could be? Part of the head gasket? It is stuck on the piston and does not seem like it will go anywhere easily. Does this mean that I need to go further down into the engine? All help appreciated Thanks Tom From: "tab" Date: August 14, 2007 6:15:41 PM MDT (CA) To: Subject: [TR] White smoke out the tail pipe TR List My TR4 seems to have developed a large whiteish plume of smoke from the tail pipe, most evident on acceleration but it seems like it is always there. Oil pressure is fine 70 at speed 40-50 at idle when warm. Oil looks clean when I changed it tonight. Compression is fine at each of the cylinders It does seem to be "loosing" cooling antifreeze but there is no leak or puddle Other than the smoke which concerns me as something new it seems to be running acceptably. So before I go more in-depth where should I start looking there is still plenty of driving time this season which I would hate to loose but dont want to damage anything too badly Thanks Tom _______________________________________________ jimbpps at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From portermd at zianet.com Thu Aug 16 19:24:09 2007 From: portermd at zianet.com (Michael Porter) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 19:24:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR 4 White smoke out the tail pipe - Follow up /Update In-Reply-To: <343685E59E8C468A99145D18AB1573D7@JimofficePC> References: <4E3FD782-FE7F-48EF-9E66-36AD49D95091@telus.net> <001501c7dfaa$c43d1400$6501a8c0@na01.crl.com> <343685E59E8C468A99145D18AB1573D7@JimofficePC> Message-ID: <46C4F8B9.6050604@zianet.com> Jim Bauder wrote: > I pretty much agree with what has been said by others. > > One thing that I see in the photo is what looks to me like orange silicon gasket > sealer in the water passage between the two cylinders. In my opinion, if that is > what it is, I would tear down the whole engine and hot tank it to get rid of > that stuff! It is not good to have inside an engine! > > Yeah, I saw that, too, but didn't make any judgment about what it was. If silicone had been used on the head gasket surfaces at last assembly, that might also explain why the head gasket failed in the first place. Definitely a no-no. Cheers. -- Michael D. Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 16 19:32:16 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 18:32:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Concerning "Satch" (little LBC content) In-Reply-To: <5D884712065E41DFA3B02863BF3E2F59@GeoPC> References: <465024.87542.qm@web90612.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <5D884712065E41DFA3B02863BF3E2F59@GeoPC> Message-ID: <015601c7e06e$727b0e00$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bartlett_High_School_(Anchorage,_Alaska) > > I mention it as I think it is worth a read. Eh ! He was accused of something that wasn't a crime, so they had to pass a law to make it a crime. There's a good reason it's unconstitutional to pass retroactive laws. Then they made a big stink about the school making a deal for him to leave quietly after not committing any crime. Our legal system at work. Mebbe things were different at your high school, but at mine, there were lots of 17yo girls that were ready, able and more than willing. We lost one of the best band teachers that school ever had after he married a former student ... everyone knew what was going on before she turned 18 but no one felt it necessary to blow the whistle on them. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From McGaheyRx at aol.com Thu Aug 16 19:37:28 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 21:37:28 EDT Subject: [TR] Satch Carlson Message-ID: In a message dated 8/16/2007 1:49:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, dncullig at us.ibm.com writes: Unless he was fired since last week (always a possibility), Satch Carlson still writes for Autoweek. He was brought back into the fold a few months back as an occasional col- umnist. I still enjoy reading his stuff. I believe you mean he started writing a column in Hemmings "Sports and Exotic Car" magazine a few months back - I don't think he's written for Autoweek since about 1989. Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dorpaul at negia.net Thu Aug 16 19:57:14 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 21:57:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Escaping Prince-of-Darkness Problems Message-ID: <076301c7e071$f093c1d0$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I hadn't written much because my welder is waiting for a part. Today, I looked at the wiring of my console panel. Although it had been only about 1-2 months since I had all the wire endings bright and shiny copper, but I saw that already the Georgia humidity was starting to take it's toll. Hopefully, the areas where the wire was 'screwed-down upon' by the terminal's connector made an "air-tight seal" and will not corrode. The unprotected area of wire, however, had started turning black. With all the recent postings regarding questionable "Lucas Connectors", maybe I ought to redo my console by cleaning all connections again before mounting it in the dash back in the dash? I've got a tube of some kind of anti-oxident goop meant for putting on electrical wiring. Spreading this goop on the exisiting terminals is proably sufficient. As Randall says,"make sure you have an air tight seal arround your connections". If I do this, will I most-likely escape Prince-of-Darkness Problems? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Aug 16 18:29:48 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 17:29:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Concerning "Satch" Message-ID: Okay, that looked fine until I sent it -- maybe its just my browser that undoes the closing paren, but cut & paste or a wiki search will get you there. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" To: "Bob Rolfes" ; Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 5:28 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Concerning "Satch" > The closing paren failed to be included in that hot link so it will not > work (unless you copy and paste it). This should work: > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bartlett_High_School_(Anchorage,_Alaska) > > I mention it as I think it is worth a read. > > Geo > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Rolfes" > To: > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 2:41 PM > Subject: [TR] Concerning "Satch" > > >> You may want to check out this Wikipedia article concerning Satch >> Carlson..... >> >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bartlett_High_School_(Anchorage,_Alaska) >> >> I make no further coment...... From banc8004 at comcast.net Thu Aug 16 20:49:48 2007 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 22:49:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 110 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have been to the Yuengling brewery for a tour. Frankly, it could have been a brewery in a third world country. It was a disgrace. It was dirty. Please, do not hold that up as a shining light. And by the way, alcohol by volume does not a great beer make. Carling is the UK's biggest selling beer, Wikipedia tells me. Canadian owned. Monthly visits to the UK tell me otherwise. Miller, Bud (is that really beer?) and Coors do not register on the dial. You need to travel more Glenn. Anyway...back on topic....where is what's his name? Brian On Aug 16, 2007, at 9:57 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > I'll take exception to that Ian ... I get really good head from > "American Beers" :> > > I hardly think that Yuengling's beers from America's Oldest Brewery > taste anything "close to water" with ABV of 4.4 - 5.4 > > But Seriously, Exactly what IS an "American" Beer? Maybe you have > things confused with German Pilsners which are not American at all. > Miller, Bud, Coors, Pabst, Old Milwalukee, Schmitts, Shaefers, Iron > City, Rolling Rock > > "American Beers" win gold metals at world beer festivals, and are > usually hand crafted Ale recipes for Stouts, Lambics, Trapists, > various > Lagers, with ABV of 4.5-8%. > > Best selling beers in Ireland and UK? Miller, Budwiser and Coors, > brewed where? Under contract in Ireland and the UK. Most consumed > beer > in Dublin? Miller Lite ... > > Cheers!! > > -- > Glenn A. Merrell > Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) > The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the > paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tom628 at verizon.net Thu Aug 16 20:54:23 2007 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 22:54:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] solenoid & ballast resistor Message-ID: <009101c7e079$ec49e980$2f01a8c0@Toms> While troubleshooting a starter problem I found that the solenoid for my '76 TR6 does not have a terminal for a W/Y wire to supply 12V to the coil during starting, bypassing the ballast resistor, as shown in Dan Masters' schematic for the '76. I have a Crane XR700 system, with the Crane coil and Crane ballast resistor. No original k/w ballast wire to the coil. I'm thinking of running a wire from the lower heavy terminal on the solenoid (the one energized when the solenoid pulls in) to the coil positive terminal so that the coil can get the full 12V during starting. Anyone see any flawed thinking or pitfalls in this approach? BTW, Dan's info is so much more detailed and informative and model-specific than the Haynes manual , as I'm sure almost everyone knows. Thanks, Tom From koblinger at verizon.net Thu Aug 16 21:41:32 2007 From: koblinger at verizon.net (Kurt Oblinger) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 20:41:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Concerning "Satch" (little LBC content) Message-ID: <46C518EC.5090704@verizon.net> My High school wasn't much different. The head football coach's wife was considerably younger than he was and was one of his former students. A girl I had gone to school with since the 1st grade married the very popular "hip" social studies teacher very soon after she turned 18. She'd been his teaching assistant for a couple of semesters. Anyway, enough high school drama. Satch is also currently the editor of Roundel, the magazine of the BMW Car Club of America. May not sound impressive but it is a very good mag, 160+ pages, full color. Cheers, Kurt O. (whose wife is 2 years younger than me, and reminds me of that fact frequently) Randall wrote: >Eh ! He was accused of something that wasn't a crime, so they had to pass a >law to make it a crime. There's a good reason it's unconstitutional to pass >retroactive laws. Then they made a big stink about the school making a deal >for him to leave quietly after not committing any crime. Our legal system >at work. > >Mebbe things were different at your high school, but at mine, there were >lots of 17yo girls that were ready, able and more than willing. We lost one >of the best band teachers that school ever had after he married a former >student ... everyone knew what was going on before she turned 18 but no one >felt it necessary to blow the whistle on them. > >Randall From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 16 22:23:38 2007 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 21:23:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Message-ID: <506355.45967.qm@web37509.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Glenn- I think you missed the point. "American Beer" means adulterated "American" Lagers that were developed after prohibition to satisfy the American appetite for a light, tasteless beverage. Examples are the "Miller, Bud, Coors, Pabst, Old Milwalukee, Schmitts, Shaefers, Iron City, Rolling Rock" you mentioned. True enough, they do win medals "IN THEIR STYLE". The "American" beers you cite are not mainstream "American" beers. You can't compare beers (and I use that term loosely) like Bud and Coors to craft brewed or home brewed beers. FWIW, I spent a fair bit of time in the UK last summer and I did not see Bud, Miller, or Coors in any pub I visited (thank goodness!!!). Beers- Chad (Coweta Craft Brewery and Brit Car Haven) Jester Message: 3 Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 17:12:58 -0600 From: "Glenn A. Merrell" Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER? To: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <46C4D9FA.3090809 at tscusa.org> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Ian wrote: > As a counterpoint to that, "How is drinking American beer like making out in > a row boat? They are both *&%$!^) close to water." > > -- > Ian > 62 TR4 > I'll take exception to that Ian ... I get really good head from "American Beers" :> I hardly think that Yuengling's beers from America's Oldest Brewery taste anything "close to water" with ABV of 4.4 - 5.4 But Seriously, Exactly what IS an "American" Beer? Maybe you have things confused with German Pilsners which are not American at all. Miller, Bud, Coors, Pabst, Old Milwalukee, Schmitts, Shaefers, Iron City, Rolling Rock "American Beers" win gold metals at world beer festivals, and are usually hand crafted Ale recipes for Stouts, Lambics, Trapists, various Lagers, with ABV of 4.5-8%. Best selling beers in Ireland and UK? Miller, Budwiser and Coors, brewed where? Under contract in Ireland and the UK. Most consumed beer in Dublin? Miller Lite ... Cheers!! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 17 06:00:17 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 08:00:17 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/16/2007 6:13:26 PM Central Daylight Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > But Seriously, Exactly what IS an "American" Beer? Maybe you have > things confused with German Pilsners which are not American at all. > Miller, Bud, Coors, Pabst, Old Milwalukee, Schmitts, Shaefers, Iron > City, Rolling Rock > Hey, Glenn, is anal retentive hyphenated? World wide, when one says "American Beer" one thinks Budweiser and Miller. They own most of the market. The truly wonderful beers which you mentioned which are joined by many others are enjoying an upsurge in the market but still represent a nitch market in the beer world. They are not "typical" American beers. Alas, we are not "typical" beer drinkers. Dave Support your local Microbrewery From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 17 06:22:50 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 08:22:50 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 110 Message-ID: In a message dated 8/16/2007 9:50:12 PM Central Daylight Time, banc8004 at comcast.net writes: > Anyway...back on topic....where is what's his name? > BRILLIANT! From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 17 06:25:35 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 08:25:35 EDT Subject: [TR] solenoid & ballast resistor Message-ID: In a message dated 8/16/2007 9:55:04 PM Central Daylight Time, tom628 at verizon.net writes: > While troubleshooting a starter problem I found that the solenoid for my > '76 TR6 does not have a terminal for a W/Y wire to supply 12V to the coil > during starting, bypassing the ballast resistor, as shown in Dan Masters' > schematic for the '76. > I have a Crane XR700 system, with the Crane coil and Crane ballast resistor. > > No original k/w ballast wire to the coil. > I'm thinking of running a wire from the lower heavy terminal on the > solenoid (the one energized when the solenoid pulls in) to the coil positive > > terminal so that the coil can get the full 12V during starting. > Anyone see any flawed thinking or pitfalls in this approach? > BTW, Dan's info is so much more detailed and informative and model-specific > than the Haynes manual , as I'm sure almost everyone knows. > It won't work. If you do that the ballast resistor will be feeding current to both the coil and the starter motor. Of course there will be no voltage because the motor is such a low resistance. Leave the wire loose. It will work fine in most instances. Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 17 07:06:12 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:06:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? In-Reply-To: <46C4D9FA.3090809@tscusa.org> Message-ID: On my recent trip to Amsterdam I noticed one cafe post the alcohol content of the beers they served. One of them was listed at 12%. A couple of bottles of that should just about put an end to ones doubts about who makes the best beer. Lets get real here, beer tastes like sour crap. The only reason to drink it is for the alcohol. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Booking a flight? Know when to buy with airfare predictions on MSN Travel. http://travel.msn.com/Articles/aboutfarecast.aspx&ocid=T001MSN25A07001 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Aug 17 07:08:44 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:08:44 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 5:01:10 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: World wide, when one says "American Beer" one thinks Budweiser and Miller. They own most of the market. The truly wonderful beers which you mentioned which are joined by many others are enjoying an upsurge in the market but still represent a nitch market in the beer world. They are not "typical" American beers. Alas, we are not "typical" beer drinkers. Several years ago there was an article in one of the US national news magazines saying that Bud was the best US beer. The reason given was because of its consistency. A Bud in Maine tastes just like a Bud in Dallas etc. people always know what to expect with Bud. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 17 07:16:55 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:16:55 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lucas In-Reply-To: <007c01c7e069$4841fae0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: The British do not make refrigerators or air conditioners. They couldn't find a way to make them leak oil. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Booking a flight? Know when to buy with airfare predictions on MSN Travel. http://travel.msn.com/Articles/aboutfarecast.aspx&ocid=T001MSN25A07001 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 17 07:22:14 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:22:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] Concerning "Satch" (little LBC content) In-Reply-To: <015601c7e06e$727b0e00$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: I went to one year of high school in Tustin Ca. Then I went to military school to finish high school. During my one year at Tustin a young couple in love were told by her father that if she got pregnant he would prosecute the boy. Sure enough she got pregnant. The boy was over eighteen and she wasn't. The father prosecuted him and he got three years in prison for statutory rape. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Tease your brain--play Clink! Win cool prizes! http://club.live.com/clink.aspx?icid=clink_hotmailtextlink2 From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Aug 17 07:22:25 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:22:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) Message-ID: <380-220078517132225271@M2W032.mail2web.com> Does anybody have a good way of tinting or coloring the inside of a glass front parking lamp lens to an amber color? I have tried using an amber 1157 (small) type bulb with no luck. The bulb has to be the small one inch ROUND not oblong (hot air balloon) type or it wont fit. The coating on them (or the ones that I have) eventually just burns off and you are left with a white or slightly yellowish bulb - I have also tried using LED bulbs but A, they are not as bright no matter how many LEDs they contain ( trust me, I have tried a bunch and still have them laying around in my bulb drawer), I can barely see the park lamp illumination in the daytime  and B, the ELECTRONIC flasher, the one that is supposed to work no matter what bulb type you have, does not flash when I use an LED lamp - So - I am looking to tint or color the inside amber so I can just use a standard 1157 type bulb  And no, I cant just get a colored glass for this unit or I would have already :-) Open to suggestions Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 17 07:26:12 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:26:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] Cure you wiring problems. In-Reply-To: <076301c7e071$f093c1d0$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: I "cured" my electrical problems during the rebuild of my TR3A three years ago. I replaced all the connectors and soldered, and shrink wrapped all of them. No more lose connectors, broken connector wires, or poor grounds. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Find a local pizza place, movie theater, and more.then map the best route! http://maps.live.com/default.aspx?v=2&ss=yp.bars~yp.pizza~yp.movie%20theater&cp=42.358996~-71.056691&style=r&lvl=13&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=950607&encType=1&FORM=MGAC01 From dncullig at us.ibm.com Fri Aug 17 07:03:58 2007 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:03:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Satch Carlson In-Reply-To: Message-ID: OOPS, you're right - I only get 2 magazines and I confused them. Now, where did I put my brain... Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U TR6IUMPH McGaheyRx at aol.com 08/16/2007 09:37 To PM Dennis N Culligan/Sterling Forest/IBM at IBMUS, Dave1massey at cs.com cc triumphs at autox.team.net Subject Re: [TR] Satch Carlson In a message dated 8/16/2007 1:49:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, dncullig at us.ibm.com writes: Unless he was fired since last week (always a possibility), Satch Carlson still writes for Autoweek. He was brought back into the fold a few months back as an occasional col- umnist. I still enjoy reading his stuff. I believe you mean he started writing a column in Hemmings "Sports and Exotic Car" magazine a few months back - I don't think he's written for Autoweek since about 1989. Cheers, Jack Mc Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL.com. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of graycol.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of pic11863.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of ecblank.gif] From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Aug 17 07:33:23 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:33:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Message-ID: <380-220078517133323760@M2W012.mail2web.com> You'll probably get a lot of flames for that one - And let me be the first :-) I beg to differ!! While some may, I personally don't drink (anything) to get a buzz - and I am not one to drink a lot of beer I also don't care for a lot of beers out there, but I do like Karl Strauss Amber Lager once in a while with a good meal - And its purely for the taste - Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA- Original Message: ----------------- Tom writes, The only reason to drink it is for the alcohol. -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 17 07:43:06 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:43:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) In-Reply-To: <380-220078517132225271@M2W032.mail2web.com> Message-ID: Try contacting your local glass shop. You know, the people that replace windows. Preferable one that does custom work. If anyone has a way to coat glass they would know. Other wise try cleaning the inside of the lens thoroughly. I would recommend brake cleaner or acetone. Then try painting the inside of the lens with a translucent lacquer paint or a very thin coat of non-translucent lacquer paint. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Booking a flight? Know when to buy with airfare predictions on MSN Travel. http://travel.msn.com/Articles/aboutfarecast.aspx&ocid=T001MSN25A07001 From fishplate at charter.net Fri Aug 17 07:50:38 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 9:50:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) In-Reply-To: <380-220078517132225271@M2W032.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <20070817095038.3BWQX.15013.root@fepweb13> ---- "v6spitfireguy at cox.net" wrote: > Does anybody have a good way of tinting or coloring the inside of a glass > front parking lamp lens to an amber color? Some hobby paints are sold in translucent colors - Tamiya is one brand. Check you local hobby shop where the radio-control car people hang out... Jeff Scarbrough Spitfires and a TR6 From Ssandberg at MEDIATECH-INC.COM Fri Aug 17 08:00:51 2007 From: Ssandberg at MEDIATECH-INC.COM (Stephen Sandberg) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 10:00:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Satch Carlson Message-ID: He is also the editor of the BMW club magazine Roundel I dropped my autoweek subscription after they had to get rid of him. Steve From Lbc.Resto at comcast.net Fri Aug 17 08:11:58 2007 From: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net (Ian) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 10:11:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? In-Reply-To: <46C4D9FA.3090809@tscusa.org> References: <008e01c7e02e$29fd44d0$0502a8c0@RAS> <46C4D9FA.3090809@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <005e01c7e0d8$932dab70$0502a8c0@RAS> When I first started drinking in the UK, Watney's Red was the "beer" of choice to us kids, which as any older Brit listers will tell you was just as bad as some of the watery beers around now. Yuengling is my local beer as the brewery is in our region and I always have a case of it in the house. In our town there is the Victory Brewing Company supplying, amongst others: HopDevil at 6.7% Golden Monkey at 9.5% Old Horizontal at 10.5% None of those are close to water and have some real taste to them. Other listers will have their own fine local brews. Many people don't like strong flavor in their beer and that's OK; there are many "designer" beers with flavors that don't work for me. I know that there will be replies that such and such a beer beat a European beer at a festival, but the original joke, that is told around the world (I certainly didn't make it up) is really a comment about the bland McDonalds style crap that we are brainwashed into believing is good by the big corporations. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: Glenn A. Merrell [mailto:StagByTriumph at tscusa.org] Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 7:13 PM To: Lbc.Resto at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Ian wrote: > As a counterpoint to that, "How is drinking American beer like making out in > a row boat? They are both *&%$!^) close to water." > > -- > Ian > 62 TR4 > I'll take exception to that Ian ... I get really good head from "American Beers" :> I hardly think that Yuengling's beers from America's Oldest Brewery taste anything "close to water" with ABV of 4.4 - 5.4 But Seriously, Exactly what IS an "American" Beer? Maybe you have things confused with German Pilsners which are not American at all. Miller, Bud, Coors, Pabst, Old Milwalukee, Schmitts, Shaefers, Iron City, Rolling Rock "American Beers" win gold metals at world beer festivals, and are usually hand crafted Ale recipes for Stouts, Lambics, Trapists, various Lagers, with ABV of 4.5-8%. Best selling beers in Ireland and UK? Miller, Budwiser and Coors, brewed where? Under contract in Ireland and the UK. Most consumed beer in Dublin? Miller Lite ... Cheers!! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From trglory at comcast.net Fri Aug 17 09:34:22 2007 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 11:34:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? In-Reply-To: <380-220078517133323760@M2W012.mail2web.com> References: <380-220078517133323760@M2W012.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <000001c7e0e4$15e198a0$41a4c9e0$@net> Barry Schwartz wrote: While some may, I personally don't drink (anything) to get a buzz - and I am not one to drink a lot of beer I also don't care for a lot of beers out there, but I do like Karl Strauss Amber Lager once in a while with a good meal - And its purely for the taste. ---------- I have to agree. I don't feel the need to drink more than a pint at a sitting and my preference is also for a good amber lager. I get mine from that filthy third-world brewery in Pottsville PA. I am looking forward to a tour of the place while at the TRials next month. Joe No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007 1:46 PM From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Aug 17 11:18:42 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 11:18:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? In-Reply-To: <005e01c7e0d8$932dab70$0502a8c0@RAS> References: <008e01c7e02e$29fd44d0$0502a8c0@RAS> <46C4D9FA.3090809@tscusa.org> <005e01c7e0d8$932dab70$0502a8c0@RAS> Message-ID: <46C5D872.7080205@tscusa.org> Ian wrote: > When I first started drinking in the UK, Watney's Red was the "beer" of > choice to us kids, which as any older Brit listers will tell you was just as > bad as some of the watery beers around now. > > Yuengling is my local beer as the brewery is in our region and I always have > a case of it in the house. In our town there is the Victory Brewing Company > supplying, amongst others: > HopDevil at 6.7% > Golden Monkey at 9.5% > Old Horizontal at 10.5% > > None of those are close to water and have some real taste to them. Other > listers will have their own fine local brews. Many people don't like strong > flavor in their beer and that's OK; there are many "designer" beers with > flavors that don't work for me. > > I know that there will be replies that such and such a beer beat a European > beer at a festival, but the original joke, that is told around the world (I > certainly didn't make it up) is really a comment about the bland McDonalds > style crap that we are brainwashed into believing is good by the big > corporations. > > > -- > Ian > 62 TR4 > Oh, you have Victory Brewing in your home town!! Cool! But WAIT!!! You drink microbrew, then you have the nerve to classify swill like Bud as an "American beer"!?! Shame shame SHAME!! When you compare the hand crafted beers in North America, they also have equivalent ABV (anywhere from 5% to 15%) to the nice local hand crafted brews anywhere in the world. When I was in Belgium, I tried the red cap stuff that was 18%. Far too alcohol astringent for my taste, and in a little pony bottle, you could only drink two of them. I have been a craft brewer for over 20 years. I drink high quality hand crafted beers for one reason, the taste! And I also like the quality hand crafted beers of the Triumph Brewing Company in New Hope Pennsylvania. I really appreciate the uniqueness and full bodied taste of many of the hand crafted American Stouts. And I appreciate the different tastes each batch produces. But as my unscientific taste test proved, Guinness is now to a standard where it also tastes the same just about anywhere in the world. Fortunately, it still has actual flavor. Here in Colorado, we host the Great American Beer Festival, venue to: 411 Breweries represented on the festival floor (27 more than last year) 1903 Beers on the Festival floor (Yikes! 250+ more than last year) 470 Breweries in the competition (20 more than last year) 2815 Beers entered into the competition (405 more than last year) Who really cares about Miller or Budweiser. When I am offered one of those mass produced beers, I "just say no" thanks - unless of course the only alternative IS water! Then most of the time I'll take the water. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Aug 17 11:24:16 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:24:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Messages from non list members? Message-ID: <380-220078517172416265@M2W044.mail2web.com> Is any body else getting email from this outfit? "info at worldclassiccars.net" The reason I ask is that I only use THIS email address for the lists, nothing else. If I am the only one getting these, I can not understand how they got this email address! I've received about 8 in the last two days - -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange From ScharfR at aol.com Fri Aug 17 11:33:56 2007 From: ScharfR at aol.com (ScharfR at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:33:56 EDT Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 1:27:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:22:25 -0400 From: "v6spitfireguy at cox.net" Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Message-ID: <380-220078517132225271 at M2W032.mail2web.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Does anybody have a good way of tinting or coloring the inside of a glass front parking lamp lens to an amber color? [snip] Open to suggestions Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA Barry, et al: I have used transparent paint from a model car supply and hobby shop to solve a similar problem. I believe Testors makes the paint, which is used to tint the clear plastic lenses on model cars. It's available in red, yellow, orange, etc. I once used it to rejuvenate a very faded tail light lens on a Moto Guzzi ElDorado. It worked great and was still looking fine when I sold the bike after several years. Bob Sharp pining for my 64-ish TR4 Michigan ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From cak at dimebank.com Fri Aug 17 11:35:55 2007 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 10:35:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) Message-ID: <200708171735.l7HHZtUj016542@moose.dimebank.com> Stained glass artists use various spray-on dyes when they don't have just the right color of glass. You might try that avenue... chris From ScharfR at aol.com Fri Aug 17 11:36:26 2007 From: ScharfR at aol.com (ScharfR at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:36:26 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 1:27:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:33:23 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER? You'll probably get a lot of flames for that one - And let me be the first :-) I beg to differ!! While some may, I personally don't drink (anything) to get a buzz - and I am not one to drink a lot of beer I also don't care for a lot of beers out there, but I do like Karl Strauss Amber Lager once in a while with a good meal - And its purely for the taste >>>>>Yes, and I read Playboy for the literary content. Bob Sharp pining for my 64-ish TR4 Michigan ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From foxtrapper at aceweb.com Fri Aug 17 11:47:05 2007 From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:47:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Messages from non list members? References: <380-220078517172416265@M2W044.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <000801c7e0f6$a1008150$7029c40a@mde.state.md.us> Look at the "To" list of this message. It's to the triumphs group and to your web address. All I did was reply to all senders. So your address is going out in the header from the list, and any spam-bot on any recipients computer would pick it up. I'm not getting messages from that site, but that's probably just a matter of time. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 1:24 PM Subject: [Spits] Messages from non list members? > Is any body else getting email from this outfit? > > "info at worldclassiccars.net" > > The reason I ask is that I only use THIS email address for the lists, > nothing else. > If I am the only one getting these, I can not understand how they got this > email address! > > I've received about 8 in the last two days - From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Aug 17 11:52:09 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:52:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Messages from non list members? In-Reply-To: <380-220078517172416265@M2W044.mail2web.com> References: <380-220078517172416265@M2W044.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <000101c7e0f7$57ec5b00$210110ac@bobspc> You'd be amazed at what the internet bots can do these days. They're always crawling for something and email addresses is high on their list. But I haven't gotten hit by worldclassiccars.net .....yet. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 1:24 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Messages from non list members? Is any body else getting email from this outfit? "info at worldclassiccars.net" The reason I ask is that I only use THIS email address for the lists, nothing else. If I am the only one getting these, I can not understand how they got this email address! I've received about 8 in the last two days - -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007 1:46 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007 1:46 PM From spitlist at cox.net Fri Aug 17 12:14:52 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 11:14:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Messages from non list members? References: <380-220078517172416265@M2W044.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <007101c7e0fa$821c7f60$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Oh Yeah! I sent them a message saying that while I would love to buy the cars they were advertising, my funds are pitifully small and I would appreciate it if they would cease and desist in sending any more ads. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 10:24 AM Subject: [Spits] Messages from non list members? > Is any body else getting email from this outfit? > > "info at worldclassiccars.net" > > The reason I ask is that I only use THIS email address for the lists, > nothing else. > If I am the only one getting these, I can not understand how they got this > email address! > > I've received about 8 in the last two days - > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - > http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange > _______________________________________________ > Spitfires mailing list > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 17 12:18:01 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 11:18:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas In-Reply-To: References: <007c01c7e069$4841fae0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <01dd01c7e0fa$f210c6a0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > The British do not make refrigerators or air conditioners. > They couldn't > find a way to make them leak oil. Which is odd, because they both have oil in them. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 17 12:22:28 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 11:22:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? In-Reply-To: References: <46C4D9FA.3090809@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <01de01c7e0fb$92250020$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > The only reason to drink it is for the alcohol. Even that's not a reason, IMO. If you're going to drink alcohol, why not enjoy the taste of a nice Scotch whiskey ? Sure, it's still got the weeds and bugs and fungus from the harvested grain, but at least the alcohol is strong enough to kill the taste of them ! Now where'd I put my Nomex ? Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 17 13:14:23 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 12:14:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] solenoid & ballast resistor In-Reply-To: <009101c7e079$ec49e980$2f01a8c0@Toms> References: <009101c7e079$ec49e980$2f01a8c0@Toms> Message-ID: <01f601c7e102$d26495e0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I'm thinking of running a wire from the lower heavy terminal on the > solenoid (the one energized when the solenoid pulls in) to > the coil positive > terminal so that the coil can get the full 12V during starting. > Anyone see any flawed thinking or pitfalls in this approach? I agree, won't work. I disconnected that circuit on my Stag; couldn't tell it made any difference at all. Especially with the XR700, you shouldn't have any trouble getting it started (and all that wire does is help out the ignition a bit when starting). If you really want to keep the function, then add a relay with the coil connected from the white/red to ground (so energized when the starter is energized), and the contacts wired across the ballast resistor. The 75 TR6 didn't use the second small terminal on the starter solenoid; which might explain how yours is missing. It also used a relay to short out the ballast (except it was a special relay with a second contact to operate the starter solenoid as well). Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 17 13:22:37 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 12:22:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Escaping Prince-of-Darkness Problems In-Reply-To: <076301c7e071$f093c1d0$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <076301c7e071$f093c1d0$380260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <01f801c7e103$f8e00190$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > If I do this, will I > most-likely escape Prince-of-Darkness Problems? Not necessary, IMO, Paul. Those old clamp-screw terminals actually work very well, and are still used (in modified form) on modern high-reliability wiring. You are quite right about the copper turning dark; that is copper oxide (rust) you are seeing and it's a much poorer conductor than copper is. (Actually considered a semi-conductor, and used in a very few old-time solid-state diodes.) But the screws deform the wires and mash them together enough to get a good gas-tight connection. However, as long as we are on the topic of ducking the Prince; I would suggest adding separate ground wires to all the lamp holders on the rear of the car; and using relays & fuses for the headlights. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Aug 17 13:24:39 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:24:39 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/16/2007 5:13:24 PM Mountain Daylight Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: I hardly think that Yuengling's beers from America's Oldest Brewery taste anything "close to water" with ABV of 4.4 - 5.4 Ahhh, We're down to our last case. Every 18 months or so we get someone to bring us a dozen cases or so....time for a road trip to PA. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Aug 17 13:37:23 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:37:23 EDT Subject: [TR] Concerning "Satch" (little LBC content) Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 7:22:50 AM Mountain Daylight Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: During my one year at Tustin a young couple in love were told by her father that if she got pregnant he would prosecute the boy. Sure enough she got pregnant. The boy was over eighteen and she wasn't. The father prosecuted him and he got three years in prison for statutory rape. Must of been fun later in life when Mom had to explain that Grampa put Daddy in prison, and that's why he isn't invited to Thanksgiving and Christmas.... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Aug 17 13:41:21 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:41:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 7:24:50 AM Mountain Daylight Time, v6spitfireguy at cox.net writes: And no, I cant just get a colored glass for this unit or I would have already :-) Open to suggestions Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA Barry, try a Michaels or Hobby Lobby, or similar craft store for the fake "stained glass" paint. They sell bottles in differnt colors and amber should be one of them. Crafters squeeze a liquid solder like stuff on glass or a mirror to outline a design and then use an eye dropper to color areas of the design with this clear but tinted paint. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Aug 17 13:48:20 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:48:20 EDT Subject: [TR] Messages from non list members? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 11:24:48 AM Mountain Daylight Time, v6spitfireguy at cox.net writes: Is any body else getting email from this outfit? "info at worldclassiccars.net" The reason I ask is that I only use THIS email address for the lists, nothing else. If I am the only one getting these, I can not understand how they got this email address! I've received about 8 in the last two days - Did you respond to the first one? On the MG list there's been quite a discussion of this fellow, Marcos is his name. He apparently sent one email to each of the lists, or at least the ones I am on, advertising an overpriced MG T-series. Those that responded to him, mostly negatively to tell him to stay off the list, have been bombarded with more emails, some personal and ugly. I only got the first one from each list and simply deleted it. I hope it doesn't become a topic here as on the MG list, we all got one spam, but now there must be over 30 emails discussing how terrible it is to get spam and what a jerk Marcos is...I'm getting tired of deleting all the off topic discussion of the off topic email. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 17 13:54:20 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 12:54:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Messages from non list members? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01fd01c7e108$67111830$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I'm getting tired of > deleting all the off > topic discussion of the off topic email. Not to mention cross-posted messages. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 17 14:17:24 2007 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 16:17:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A New Door Seal Problem Message-ID: I just replaced the door seal rubber (not the Furflex) on both door openings of my TR4-A and now have trouble closing the doors. I had to move the striker plates out in order to get the doors to latch, but there is now a huge gap between the doors and body panels. The doors closed and lined up fine before (but there was no rubber in the channel at all - rotted away over the years). The rubber seal came from TRF and installed fine - looked to be a good match to what original would have been. If I keep the doors closed against the new seal, will the fit improve? Or is there a trick to getting a good fit with the new seals? Thanks Glenn From wbeech at flash.net Fri Aug 17 15:05:30 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:05:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Messages from non list members? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070817210524.AE3AB1879D0@autox.team.net> Hmmm... I think that it is illegal to send SPAM after you have rewquested to be dropped. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BearTranserv at aol.com Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 1:48 PM To: v6spitfireguy at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Messages from non list members? In a message dated 8/17/2007 11:24:48 AM Mountain Daylight Time, v6spitfireguy at cox.net writes: Is any body else getting email from this outfit? "info at worldclassiccars.net" The reason I ask is that I only use THIS email address for the lists, nothing else. If I am the only one getting these, I can not understand how they got this email address! I've received about 8 in the last two days - Did you respond to the first one? On the MG list there's been quite a discussion of this fellow, Marcos is his name. He apparently sent one email to each of the lists, or at least the ones I am on, advertising an overpriced MG T-series. Those that responded to him, mostly negatively to tell him to stay off the list, have been bombarded with more emails, some personal and ugly. I only got the first one from each list and simply deleted it. I hope it doesn't become a topic here as on the MG list, we all got one spam, but now there must be over 30 emails discussing how terrible it is to get spam and what a jerk Marcos is...I'm getting tired of deleting all the off topic discussion of the off topic email. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007 1:46 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007 1:46 PM From dkspence at telus.net Fri Aug 17 15:14:49 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:14:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 112 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: LU54576359 Amber lens On 17-Aug-07, at 11:24 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) > Reply-To: v6spitfireguy at cox.net > > > Does anybody have a good way of tinting or coloring the inside of a > glass > front parking lamp lens to an amber color? I have tried using an > amber > 1157 (small) type bulb with no luck. The bulb has to be the small > one inch > ROUND not oblong (hot air balloon) type or it wont fit. The > coating on > them (or the ones that I have) eventually just burns off and you > are left > with a white or slightly yellowish bulb - > I have also tried using LED bulbs but A, they are not as bright > no matter > how many LEDs they contain ( trust me, I have tried a bunch and > still have > them laying around in my bulb drawer), I can barely see the park > lamp > illumination in the daytime  and B, the ELECTRONIC flasher, the > one > that is supposed to work no matter what bulb type you have, does > not flash > when I use an LED lamp - > So - I am looking to tint or color the inside amber so I can just > use a > standard 1157 type bulb  > And no, I cant just get a colored glass for this unit or I would have > already :-) > > Open to suggestions > > Barry Schwartz > La Mesa, CA From dkspence at telus.net Fri Aug 17 15:15:43 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:15:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1C523F5C-56EF-4C8D-8D75-616D09A25067@telus.net> TRF sells an amber front marker lens. On 17-Aug-07, at 11:24 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) > Reply-To: v6spitfireguy at cox.net > > > Does anybody have a good way of tinting or coloring the inside of a > glass > front parking lamp lens to an amber color? I have tried using an > amber > 1157 (small) type bulb with no luck. The bulb has to be the small > one inch > ROUND not oblong (hot air balloon) type or it wont fit. The > coating on > them (or the ones that I have) eventually just burns off and you > are left > with a white or slightly yellowish bulb - > I have also tried using LED bulbs but A, they are not as bright > no matter > how many LEDs they contain ( trust me, I have tried a bunch and > still have > them laying around in my bulb drawer), I can barely see the park > lamp > illumination in the daytime  and B, the ELECTRONIC flasher, the > one > that is supposed to work no matter what bulb type you have, does > not flash > when I use an LED lamp - > So - I am looking to tint or color the inside amber so I can just > use a > standard 1157 type bulb  > And no, I cant just get a colored glass for this unit or I would have > already :-) > > Open to suggestions > > Barry Schwartz > La Mesa, CA From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Aug 17 15:28:59 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 17:28:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) In-Reply-To: <380-220078517132225271@M2W032.mail2web.com> References: <380-220078517132225271@M2W032.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <200708171728.59669.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 17 August 2007 09:22 am, v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote: > Does anybody have a good way of tinting or coloring the inside of a glass > front parking lamp lens to an amber color? I have tried using an amber > 1157 (small) type bulb with no luck. The bulb has to be the small one inch > ROUND not oblong (hot air balloon) type or it wont fit. The coating on > them (or the ones that I have) eventually just burns off and you are left > with a white or slightly yellowish bulb - > I have also tried using LED bulbs but A, they are not as bright no matter > how many LEDs they contain ( trust me, I have tried a bunch and still have > them laying around in my bulb drawer), I can barely see the park lamp > illumination in the daytime  and B, the ELECTRONIC flasher, the one > that is supposed to work no matter what bulb type you have, does not flash > when I use an LED lamp - > So - I am looking to tint or color the inside amber so I can just use a > standard 1157 type bulb  > And no, I cant just get a colored glass for this unit or I would have > already :-) > > Open to suggestions > > Barry Schwartz > La Mesa, CA > > Barry, These lenses are std equipment on the TR4 and available on ebay every so often. I believe they were mostly on the European versions. I got a set on ebay for the 4 to match the TR250 style rear amber lenses. Now I can see the difference between my 3 and 4! Not sure if the 3 and 4 front directional lense is the same for the Spitfire but I think they are. Bob From rbtr3a at cox.net Fri Aug 17 15:48:56 2007 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 17:48:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake switch removal Message-ID: <00d701c7e118$69b7daf0$e9a0b946@ronniej94vilm0> Is it possible to remove and replace the hydraulic brake switch located at the five way connector on a TR3 with out having to bleed the brake system? I was told that if you do not press the brake pedal and quickly swap them it can be done with out having to bleed the system. Ronnie Babbitt From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Aug 17 15:49:47 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 17:49:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake switch removal In-Reply-To: <00d701c7e118$69b7daf0$e9a0b946@ronniej94vilm0> References: <00d701c7e118$69b7daf0$e9a0b946@ronniej94vilm0> Message-ID: <200708171749.48118.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 17 August 2007 05:48 pm, Ronnie Babbitt wrote: > Is it possible to remove and replace the hydraulic brake switch located at > the five way connector on a TR3 with out having to bleed the brake system? > I was told that if you do not press the brake pedal and quickly swap them > it can be done with out having to bleed the system. > > > > > > > > Ronnie Babbitt Ronnie, I am guessing it should work as the pressure gizmo and gravity would prevent an air bubble from entering. But be sure to shield the area from the small amount of fluid that will be leaking as you make the switch. Also it is a tight area to work. Good luck! Bob From wbeech at flash.net Fri Aug 17 16:08:18 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 16:08:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brake switch removal In-Reply-To: <00d701c7e118$69b7daf0$e9a0b946@ronniej94vilm0> Message-ID: <20070817220811.D8AD718763E@autox.team.net> Conventional wisdom says "no", but give it a try and see how they feel. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ronnie Babbitt Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 3:49 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Brake switch removal Is it possible to remove and replace the hydraulic brake switch located at the five way connector on a TR3 with out having to bleed the brake system? I was told that if you do not press the brake pedal and quickly swap them it can be done with out having to bleed the system. Ronnie Babbitt _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007 1:46 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007 1:46 PM From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 17 16:28:02 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 18:28:02 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 8:08:44 AM Central Daylight Time, MMoore8425 at aol.com writes: > Several years ago there was an article in one of the US national news > magazines saying that Bud was the best US beer. The reason given was because of > its consistency. A Bud in Maine tastes just like a Bud in Dallas etc. people > always know what to expect with Bud. > > Using that logic one would conclude that the best restaurant out there is McDonald's. There is a difference between consistency and flavor. But seriously, Anheuser-Busch is the largest brewery in the world. They make and sell more beer than any other outfit. And Consistency is one reason. Considering how variable the ingredients can be, especially the water, that is remarkable. And their distribution system is also top notch. A-B can make any kind of beer it wants to and make it well and make it over and over. Unfortunately, their prime product is of a nature that I don't like. I don't like yellow beer. I much prefer dark ales, stouts, porters and bock beers. Something with a complex flavour. A-B has dabbled in the nitch markets with products like Mule Kick Stout which is a very good stout. Very hard to find as well. A-B makes the beer that most consumers what to drink and I don't fit that mold. But that's OK. I pride myself in my iconoclast-ness. Dave From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Aug 17 16:34:56 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 18:34:56 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Message-ID: I said I found it to be ironic that some of the best beer I ever drank came from third world countries (Stella beer in Egypt, Star beer in Nigeria). An Eqyptian friend then commented " Well, we invented it 5000 years ago! We've had a little bit more practice" Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Aug 17 16:35:40 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 18:35:40 EDT Subject: [TR] Brake switch removal Message-ID: Yes Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 17 16:47:28 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 18:47:28 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 1:22:50 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Even that's not a reason, IMO. If you're going to drink alcohol, why not > enjoy the taste of a nice Scotch whiskey ? > I got jumped for this so now it is your turn. That's Scotch Whisky and Bourbon Whiskey. And don't forget the peat in the water. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 17 17:04:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 16:04:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <024c01c7e123$05f31470$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I got jumped for this so now it is your turn. > > That's Scotch Whisky and Bourbon Whiskey. Kind of like arguing whether a hood covers the engine or your head, isn't it ? Even though they are both commonly known as 'English', we in the US speak and write in a different language than those in the UK. "Whiskey" is correct in American English, just as "whisky" is correct in whatever it is they speak over there ... and neither one is properly capitalized unless it's at the beginning of a sentence. Next you'll be wanting me to call it uisge beatha. (Ok, ok, now someone can lecture me on whether Gaelic capitalizes it's nouns or not :) Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Aug 17 17:14:31 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 00:14:31 +0100 Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) References: <380-220078517132225271@M2W032.mail2web.com> <200708171728.59669.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <00ae01c7e124$5e9f5100$0201a8c0@Bevan> Bob Labuz wrote: > These lenses are std equipment on the TR4 and available on ebay every so > often. I believe they were mostly on the European versions. Actually Bob, yellow lenses were standard fit for all models and all markets worldwide - except for all US territories and Canada. Jonmac From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 17 17:22:22 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 16:22:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake switch removal In-Reply-To: <00d701c7e118$69b7daf0$e9a0b946@ronniej94vilm0> References: <00d701c7e118$69b7daf0$e9a0b946@ronniej94vilm0> Message-ID: <024e01c7e125$76be6fe0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Is it possible to remove and replace the hydraulic brake > switch located at > the five way connector on a TR3 with out having to bleed the > brake system? I > was told that if you do not press the brake pedal and quickly > swap them it > can be done with out having to bleed the system. What I did was to block the brake pedal down slightly (enough to close the valve in the MC) before taking the switch out. That helped keep the fluid from running out while I was fumbling with the switch, and also seemed to help keep air from getting in. I did get a small amount of air in the system, but not enough to prevent normal braking, just a bit of soft pedal. And it worked it's way out over a few days driving. Of course I use DOT 5 which is supposed to give you terrible problems with bleeding brakes, so YMMV Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 17 17:29:16 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 16:29:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Speaking of Lucas and lighting...(tinting glass) In-Reply-To: <200708171728.59669.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <380-220078517132225271@M2W032.mail2web.com> <200708171728.59669.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <024f01c7e126$6dbe8dc0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > These lenses are std equipment on the TR4 Maybe someone can explain what I'm missing ... Barry said an 1157NA bulb wouldn't fit under his lenses, yet a TR4 uses 1157 bulbs. How does everyone but me know he is looking for a yellow "beehive" lens ? Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Aug 17 17:33:46 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 16:33:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A New Door Seal Problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Quite possibly. I used the seals from TRF on my TR4 (the separate fuzzy seal & rubber seal, both identical to original). I don't think mine were as bad as yours as I did not have to realign anything to get the door to close but I did have to slam it pretty good. After a year or so all was back to original with closing requiring no more effort than closing a refrigerator door. Over time the rubber seal has become noticeably depressed. Okay -- after rereading that I can see some wiseacre tellin' me to get that seal into counseling. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Owen" To: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 1:17 PM Subject: [TR] TR4A New Door Seal Problem > If I keep the doors closed against the new seal, will the fit improve? Or > is > there a trick to getting a good fit with the new seals? From tom628 at verizon.net Fri Aug 17 17:53:45 2007 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 19:53:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] solenoid & ballast resistor References: Message-ID: <001601c7e129$d9f57780$2f01a8c0@Toms> Thanks Dave. I'm glad I asked. I'll leave the wire alone as you suggest; it starts fine as it is anyway. This is a great list. Thanks, Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 8:25 AM Subject: Re: [TR] solenoid & ballast resistor > In a message dated 8/16/2007 9:55:04 PM Central Daylight Time, > tom628 at verizon.net writes: >> While troubleshooting a starter problem I found that the solenoid for my >> '76 TR6 does not have a terminal for a W/Y wire to supply 12V to the coil >> during starting, bypassing the ballast resistor, as shown in Dan Masters' >> schematic for the '76. >> I have a Crane XR700 system, with the Crane coil and Crane ballast >> resistor. >> >> No original k/w ballast wire to the coil. >> I'm thinking of running a wire from the lower heavy terminal on the >> solenoid (the one energized when the solenoid pulls in) to the coil >> positive >> >> terminal so that the coil can get the full 12V during starting. >> Anyone see any flawed thinking or pitfalls in this approach? >> BTW, Dan's info is so much more detailed and informative and >> model-specific >> than the Haynes manual , as I'm sure almost everyone knows. >> > It won't work. If you do that the ballast resistor will be feeding > current > to both the coil and the starter motor. Of course there will be no > voltage > because the motor is such a low resistance. > > Leave the wire loose. It will work fine in most instances. > > Dave From tom628 at verizon.net Fri Aug 17 17:57:21 2007 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 19:57:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] solenoid & ballast resistor References: <009101c7e079$ec49e980$2f01a8c0@Toms> <01f601c7e102$d26495e0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <001b01c7e12a$5a1e26f0$2f01a8c0@Toms> Thanks Randall. I was going to ask about tapping off the terminal that activates the solenoid, but your reply addresses that, and it sounds like it's not worth the trouble. Thanks, Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'TR List'" Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 3:14 PM Subject: Re: [TR] solenoid & ballast resistor >> I'm thinking of running a wire from the lower heavy terminal on the >> solenoid (the one energized when the solenoid pulls in) to >> the coil positive >> terminal so that the coil can get the full 12V during starting. >> Anyone see any flawed thinking or pitfalls in this approach? > > I agree, won't work. > > I disconnected that circuit on my Stag; couldn't tell it made any > difference > at all. Especially with the XR700, you shouldn't have any trouble getting > it started (and all that wire does is help out the ignition a bit when > starting). > > If you really want to keep the function, then add a relay with the coil > connected from the white/red to ground (so energized when the starter is > energized), and the contacts wired across the ballast resistor. > > The 75 TR6 didn't use the second small terminal on the starter solenoid; > which might explain how yours is missing. It also used a relay to short > out > the ballast (except it was a special relay with a second contact to > operate > the starter solenoid as well). > > Randall > > > CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it > may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of > its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or > entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and > not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. > If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for > delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that > you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, > dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is > strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, > please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From auprichard at comcast.net Fri Aug 17 18:00:35 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 20:00:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake switch removal In-Reply-To: <20070817220811.D8AD718763E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001001c7e12a$cddf2da0$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> I have done it twice (removing the front passenger wheel makes for a much easier job) and re-bleeding was not necessary. I was told using silicon brake fluid was the reason for the failures, but who knows...... Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 6:08 PM To: 'Ronnie Babbitt'; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Brake switch removal Conventional wisdom says "no", but give it a try and see how they feel. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ronnie Babbitt Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 3:49 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Brake switch removal Is it possible to remove and replace the hydraulic brake switch located at the five way connector on a TR3 with out having to bleed the brake system? I was told that if you do not press the brake pedal and quickly swap them it can be done with out having to bleed the system. Ronnie Babbitt _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007 1:46 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007 1:46 PM From steven at newellboys.com Fri Aug 17 18:07:10 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 17:07:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] non-LBC help, car part near Lincoln NE Message-ID: <46C6382E.9080603@newellboys.com> I'm buying a local '91 Volvo 240 wagon and found a hard-to-get third row seat for it -- in Blue Springs, Nebraska. I'm in Littleton, Colorado, so I was hoping to find a list member south of Lincoln (or northwest of Topeka KS) who could pick it up and hold it till I can make a weekend TR run east. Anyone in that area with a little free time? Happy to compensate with TR4 parts or Lucas-cooled beer. Thanks! Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Aug 17 18:10:05 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 18:10:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46C638DD.3010700@tscusa.org> Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > Hey, Glenn, is anal retentive hyphenated? > > World wide, when one says "American Beer" one thinks Budweiser and Miller. > Dave, I think you mean "American-Beer" don't you? Yeah everybody, of course those are the huge mega Pilsner brands labeled as 'merican-beer" by the whole world. Just like the whole world thinks all 300 million 'mericans think just like George Bush. Remember all you furriners, Americans are overbearing, demanding, uncultured, untraveled, unaware of anything else except "merican stuff, only drink Budweiser and expect McDonald's hamburgers to be served everywhere in the world. What do they call that, yeah, ah ... I'll get it soon.... Come on everyone, lighten up, we are having some fun here! Oh ... right, I forgot 'mericans are TOO SERIOUS! Fact is, most Triumph owners in 'merica drink Old Milwaukee LITE!! LOL! Funny , I always thought stereo typing was the ability to type with both hands :) My Passport addendum is well stamped over the last 40 years thank-you, I've even been to Mississippi! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Aug 17 18:15:55 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 19:15:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? References: <024c01c7e123$05f31470$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <005801c7e12c$f26144e0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> . > > Next you'll be wanting me to call it uisge beatha. (Ok, ok, now someone > can > lecture me on whether Gaelic capitalizes it's nouns or not :) > > Randall Sometimes spelled usquebaugh, which, I believe, means "water of life" - derived from the latin, aqua vita. There is also a firey spirit produced in Sweden, I believe, called akvavit. Its from the same root. I heard that James Olson is actually on a distillery tour in Scotland. Mike From ZoboHerald at aol.com Fri Aug 17 18:25:25 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 20:25:25 EDT Subject: [TR] Brake switch removal Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 5:49:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rbtr3a at cox.net writes: Is it possible to remove and replace the hydraulic brake switch located at the five way connector on a TR3 with out having to bleed the brake system? I was told that if you do not press the brake pedal and quickly swap them it can be done with out having to bleed the system. I've done this on a '62 Herald, where the switch sticks out the side of the four-way (or however many ways) connector. Had to rush, having discovered just before a scheduled State inspection that I had no brake lights due to one of the connectors having broken off the then 40-year-old original switch. Stole an original 42-year-old switch off a junk Herald in the yard, swapped it on quickly, and passed inspection with fine brakes. ;-) In other words, YES! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Aug 17 18:28:48 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 20:28:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pans...No LBC Content Message-ID: <000001c7e12e$bfedb3c0$210110ac@bobspc> I brought my 2007 Mazda3 in to the local Valvoline Quick Lube center for its first oil change. Ahead of me was a new VW Jetta in one bay and a new VW R32 in the other bay. Over at the Jetta the guy was pulling on something at the front of the engine....it looked like a long white tube. Then at the R32, they wheeled this canister up to the car, hooked an air hose to it and stuck a long white tube down the dipstick hole and pumped the oil out. When I questioned the guy about it, he said that on cars with aluminum pans they don't want to mess with striping the oil plug so they pump the oil out. He also said that's what the dealers do too. So why have a drain plug? The tattooed biker lady who owned the Jetta was not a happy camper as it took about 20 minutes of pushing and pulling to get the tube out. There's no fitting on the end of the tube so maybe the plastic got caught on something in the pan. She was in their faces when I left. So what's the collective wisdom of removing oil this way? And are aluminum pans really that big a problem with striping the threads? Steel Panned TR6, Mazda6 and Mazda3 here! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007 1:46 PM From brianjone5 at mac.com Fri Aug 17 18:31:07 2007 From: brianjone5 at mac.com (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 20:31:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas etc In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2D99844F-22CA-4767-99B3-1E52171877D5@mac.com> Actually, Dave is right. This isn't a UK/US spelling difference. Scotch is the only whisky without an 'e'. Irish, Canadian, American and Japanese etc are all whiskey with an 'e'. Brian On Aug 17, 2007, at 8:07 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Kind of like arguing whether a hood covers the engine or your head, > isn't it > ? > > Even though they are both commonly known as 'English', we in the US > speak > and write in a different language than those in the UK. "Whiskey" is > correct in American English, just as "whisky" is correct in > whatever it is > they speak over there ... and neither one is properly capitalized > unless > it's at the beginning of a sentence. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 17 18:42:28 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 17:42:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pans...No LBC Content In-Reply-To: <000001c7e12e$bfedb3c0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c7e12e$bfedb3c0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <026401c7e130$a7c23170$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > So what's the collective > wisdom of removing oil this way? Sucks in every sense of the word. Doesn't even get all the oil out, let alone anything that has fallen to the bottom of the pan. > And are aluminum pans really > that big a > problem with striping the threads? Only if you insist on using an impact wrench! Most of the cars I've owned have had at least one plug into aluminum, and I've never stripped one myself. But the gorillas at K-mart not only ruined the threads, but managed to break a piece out of the case on my 80 Chevy transaxle. > Steel Panned TR6, Mazda6 and Mazda3 here! Take a look at the transmission ... the TR6 at least is aluminum. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr6nut at verizon.net Fri Aug 17 18:46:02 2007 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 20:46:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pans...No LBC Content In-Reply-To: <000001c7e12e$bfedb3c0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c7e12e$bfedb3c0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <46C6414A.8010208@verizon.net> Bob Danielson wrote: > And are aluminum pans really that big a > problem with striping the threads? > > After stripping the threads on the aluminum pan on my Dodge Neon commuter car, I, now use "Fumoto" valves on all my street cars (Neon, Mazda 6S, Ford F150, Mustang GT). They're relatively cheap and seem to work well. Are you sure your Mazda 6 has a steel pan? Our Mazda 6S (V-6 Duratec) has an aluminum pan Hugh Barber Stafford, VA '73 TR6 '00 Dodge Neon '01 Ford F-150 '04 Mazda 6S '05 Suzuki SV1000S '06 Kawasaki 500 Ninja '07 Mustang GT ......damn, I have too many toys....... From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Fri Aug 17 18:50:27 2007 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 17:50:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake switch removal References: <00d701c7e118$69b7daf0$e9a0b946@ronniej94vilm0> <024e01c7e125$76be6fe0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <007901c7e134$9e1fc660$8701a8c0@Dell> A different approach; remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir, cover the top with plastic wrap and replace the top. The vacuum will prevent the fluid from escaping while you are doing the switch. Don't forget to remove the plastice wrap before you drive off of course. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumphs'" Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 4:22 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Brake switch removal >> Is it possible to remove and replace the hydraulic brake >> switch located at >> the five way connector on a TR3 with out having to bleed the >> brake system? I >> was told that if you do not press the brake pedal and quickly >> swap them it >> can be done with out having to bleed the system. > > What I did was to block the brake pedal down slightly (enough to close the > valve in the MC) before taking the switch out. That helped keep the fluid > from running out while I was fumbling with the switch, and also seemed to > help keep air from getting in. > > I did get a small amount of air in the system, but not enough to prevent > normal braking, just a bit of soft pedal. And it worked it's way out over > a > few days driving. > > Of course I use DOT 5 which is supposed to give you terrible problems with > bleeding brakes, so YMMV > > Randall > (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 17 19:15:21 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 18:15:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas etc In-Reply-To: <2D99844F-22CA-4767-99B3-1E52171877D5@mac.com> References: <2D99844F-22CA-4767-99B3-1E52171877D5@mac.com> Message-ID: <026a01c7e135$3f900d70$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Actually, Dave is right. This isn't a UK/US spelling difference. > Scotch is the only whisky without an 'e'. > Irish, Canadian, American and Japanese etc are all whiskey > with an 'e'. You should tell the folks that write the OED, and Merriam-Webster, and American Heritage that. They all seem to think differently. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 17 19:55:49 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 21:55:49 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 6:05:17 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Kind of like arguing whether a hood covers the engine or your head, isn't > it > ? That's different! Don't pedestrianize the water of life. Remember all those scottsmen carry little black knives in their socks. > > > Next you'll be wanting me to call it uisge beatha. (Ok, ok, now someone can > lecture me on whether Gaelic capitalizes it's nouns or not :) Nope. Only the Germans capitalize nouns. (as far as I know) From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 17 20:02:38 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 22:02:38 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 7:16:22 PM Central Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > Sometimes spelled usquebaugh, which, I believe, means "water of life" - > derived from the latin, aqua vita. There is also a firey spirit produced in > > Sweden, I believe, called akvavit. Its from the same root. > So, tell me, Mike, do you drink yours neat as God intended or do you murder it with ice? Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 17 20:09:21 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 22:09:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas etc Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 7:39:27 PM Central Daylight Time, brianjone5 at mac.com writes: > Actually, Dave is right. This isn't a UK/US spelling difference. > Scotch is the only whisky without an 'e'. > Irish, Canadian, American and Japanese etc are all whiskey with an 'e'. > I beg to differ. I just looked at my Seagram's (Canadian) bottle and it says "Whisky." There are a lot of expat Scotts in Canada, however. You can't sling a haggis without hitting a bagpipe band. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 17 20:16:29 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 22:16:29 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas etc Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/2007 8:16:00 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > You should tell the folks that write the OED, and Merriam-Webster, and > American Heritage that. They all seem to think differently. > What do they know about making whisky? Here's what Random House Collegiate says: "Whiskey: A distilled, alcoholic beverage made from grain..." "Whisky: Whiskey, especially Scotch or Canadian whiskey." But looking at the bottles ... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 17 20:27:36 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 19:27:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <029101c7e13f$576c67e0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Nope. Only the Germans capitalize nouns. (as far as I know) I believe Old English did too ... at least to the extent it followed any rules. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Aug 17 20:48:52 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 22:48:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] two folding seats? Message-ID: <003b01c7e142$51913370$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I have just bought another folding seat. I thought it might be neat to have BOTH car seats having the ability to hinge forward. Was this a dumb idea? Why might it be useful? I hope both can be used at the same time (although 1 is red and 1 is black) Thanks, Paul Dorsey (never have driven my 60 TR3) From ahealey56 at aol.com Sat Aug 18 05:26:21 2007 From: ahealey56 at aol.com (ahealey56 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 07:26:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <8C9AFA1BCB7856B-858-65BD@FWM-D35.sysops.aol.com> Does anyone have a good TR-3/4 cylinder head or know a place where one is available. ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From Chip19474 at aol.com Sat Aug 18 05:54:52 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 07:54:52 EDT Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: In a message dated 8/18/2007 4:27:06 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ahealey56 at aol.com writes: Does anyone have a good TR-3/4 cylinder head or know a place where one is available Try Matt Bakes at Triumph Rescue in Bally, PA 610-845-8217 ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Aug 18 06:40:10 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 12:40:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] Correction for lens tinting. Message-ID: Yesterday posted a recommendation for cleaning a lens with brake cleaner or acetone. My assumption was the lens was made of glass as on my TR3A. IF YOU ARE WORKING ON PLASTIC LENSES DO NOT USE ACETONE, BRAKE CLEANER, GOOF OFF, OR OTHER SOLVENTS. Sorry about the misunderstanding. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Tease your brain--play Clink! Win cool prizes! http://club.live.com/clink.aspx?icid=clink_hotmailtextlink2 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Aug 18 06:51:12 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 12:51:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] Psychology od alcohol. Message-ID: In a freshman psychology class the professor was demonstrating the affects of chemicals on the brain. In one demonstration he placed a live worm in a beaker of grain alcohol. After wriggling around for a minute the worm died. The professor then posed the question to the class, "What affect does alcohol have on the brain?" A student in the back row raised his hand and the professor called on him. The student proudly announced, "If you drink alcohol you won't get worms in your brain." Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ More photos, more messages, more storageget 2GB with Windows Live Hotmail. http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_2G_0507 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Aug 18 07:21:17 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 13:21:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: <46C638DD.3010700@tscusa.org> Message-ID: >My Passport addendum is well stamped over the last 40 years thank-you, I've >even been to Mississippi! You needed a passport to get into Mississippi? Where in the world are you from? I thought all it took to enter Mississippi was a validated IQ score of less than 100. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Now you can see troublebefore he arrives http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_protection_0507 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Aug 18 07:25:43 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 13:25:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pans...No LBC Content In-Reply-To: <46C6414A.8010208@verizon.net> Message-ID: An after market self threading oil pan plug will correct the over bearing force of enthusiasm that strips out these drain plugs. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ See what youre getting intobefore you go there http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507 From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Sat Aug 18 09:07:03 2007 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (R. Ashford Little II) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 11:07:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: References: <46C638DD.3010700@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <001f01c7e1a9$6f96e0b0$4ec4a210$@com> OK, I suppose it was only a matter of time before "yuse guys" starting breaking out the Mississippi jokes. I'd invite "y'all" to come down and visit my home state, but then once you found out how wonderful a state it is then you'd want to stay, and ruin everything. So please don't come down to the Coast and enjoy some of the world's best seafood, don't go to Vicksburg or Natchez or the Delta for a truly magical experience and please, please don't go to Oxford and decide that Money and other magazine were right to name it one of the top places in the country to retire, and no matter where you go in the state you'd probably be turned off by true Southern hospitality. A couple of years ago an Oxford native was walking around the square and struck up a conversation with a nice gentleman (we still do that down South) and she asked what brought him to Oxford. He replied that he was from the Napa Valley, but was thinking of moving to Oxford. She was later quoted as saying that that's when she knew Oxford was in trouble. As to the IQ issue, I think you might want to check this out: http://ralittle2.com/YesWeCanRead5Col.pdf Now that I've said my peace on Mississippi I might as well chime in on the beer front. Newcastle is my beer of choice. It simply creamy delicious! But I do think you are overlooking one good thing about the Bud-type beers of the world. I refer to them as "fishing beers." What's that? Well, when I'm out at the islands doing some trout fishing (you don't want to do that either) and it's 95 degrees in the shade, I really don't want to be sipping on a Guinness or Newcastle. That's when fishing beer comes into the picture. You can down a Coors light or similar and it's cold and refreshing even if it doesn't really have any taste. R. Ashford Little II '70 TR6 6-Pack Membership Secretary Ex-Pat Mississippian currently marooned in Atlanta From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Sat Aug 18 09:31:33 2007 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 11:31:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? References: <46C638DD.3010700@tscusa.org> <001f01c7e1a9$6f96e0b0$4ec4a210$@com> Message-ID: Hi R, Your point is well taken - Mississippi is a great place. Sorry to hear about your plight in Atlanta - my home town. I left that place 20 years ago and never looked back. As for the IQ issue, I personally think it takes a person with an IQ less than 100 to make a comment like that about Mississippi or any other state. Glenn > As to the IQ issue, I think you might want to check this out: > > http://ralittle2.com/YesWeCanRead5Col.pdf > > R. Ashford Little II > '70 TR6 > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > Ex-Pat Mississippian currently marooned in Atlanta > _______________________________________________ > mgowen55 at hotmail.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From spitlist at cox.net Sat Aug 18 09:47:58 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 08:47:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? (Now Mississippi) In-Reply-To: References: <46C638DD.3010700@tscusa.org><001f01c7e1a9$6f96e0b0$4ec4a210$@com> Message-ID: <000301c7e1af$26d10f30$2202a8c0@newcomputer> I spent the most hellish 14 months of my life in Mississippi. But then my stay there began right after Hurricane Camille hit in 1969 and the first 6 weeks of my visit were doing cleanup which included fishing bodies out of the gulf and cleaning up base housing at Keesler AFB. So perhaps my view is a bit slanted. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn Owen Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 8:32 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? Hi R, Your point is well taken - Mississippi is a great place. Sorry to hear about your plight in Atlanta - my home town. I left that place 20 years ago and never looked back. As for the IQ issue, I personally think it takes a person with an IQ less than 100 to make a comment like that about Mississippi or any other state. Glenn From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Sat Aug 18 10:32:21 2007 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (R. Ashford Little II) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 12:32:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? (Now Mississippi) In-Reply-To: <000301c7e1af$26d10f30$2202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <46C638DD.3010700@tscusa.org><001f01c7e1a9$6f96e0b0$4ec4a210$@com> <000301c7e1af$26d10f30$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <002601c7e1b5$59ef1780$0dcd4680$@com> Those were hellish times Joe, and I went through Camille about a block from the beach. Had to move upstairs since the first floor flooded. Katrina did even more damage to the area than Camille did, and no one thought that was possible. But I was also down there five days after Katrina hit, and the spirit and can-do attitude of folks on the Coast is 180 degrees from what you saw in New Orleans. People were working together to help one another rather than waiting on some government agency to bail them out. You wouldn't recognize the Coast now. While I miss the sleepier times, the introduction of gambling has changed things forever. All kidding aside, if you haven't been to the Mississippi Gulf Coast you should visit - great food, sports and recreation. And Keesler AFB is still there and home to the Hurricane Hunters Squadron - those guys are amazing. Now back to Triumphs. It's officially now time to rebuild the bottom end of my engine. On my trip a couple of weeks ago I was consuming earl at about 175 miles per quart. Ouch! R. Ashford Little II '70 TR6 6-Pack Membership Secretary -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+70tr6=mindspring.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+70tr6=mindspring.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 11:48 AM To: 'Glenn Owen'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? (Now Mississippi) I spent the most hellish 14 months of my life in Mississippi. But then my stay there began right after Hurricane Camille hit in 1969 and the first 6 weeks of my visit were doing cleanup which included fishing bodies out of the gulf and cleaning up base housing at Keesler AFB. So perhaps my view is a bit slanted. Joe C. From kentech0822 at verizon.net Sat Aug 18 11:32:18 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 13:32:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pans...No LBC Content In-Reply-To: <000001c7e12e$bfedb3c0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c7e12e$bfedb3c0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <003e01c7e1bd$ba6c8090$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> Hi Bob, The real reason for the suction hose you witnessed, is that the boobs at the Quick Lube don't want to remove the 20 or so torx screws that hold on the plastic aero panel under the VW engine bay. On my Audi, oil changes are covered under warranty as long as the warranty was in effect. But now that it's expired (the warranty), I do my own. On a new car, I would either take it to the dealer or do my own. I just don't trust the grease pit monkeys to do a proper oil service. PeterK -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 8:29 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pans...No LBC Content I brought my 2007 Mazda3 in to the local Valvoline Quick Lube center for its first oil change. Ahead of me was a new VW Jetta in one bay and a new VW R32 in the other bay. Over at the Jetta the guy was pulling on something at the front of the engine....it looked like a long white tube. Then at the R32, they wheeled this canister up to the car, hooked an air hose to it and stuck a long white tube down the dipstick hole and pumped the oil out. When I questioned the guy about it, he said that on cars with aluminum pans they don't want to mess with striping the oil plug so they pump the oil out. He also said that's what the dealers do too. So why have a drain plug? The tattooed biker lady who owned the Jetta was not a happy camper as it took about 20 minutes of pushing and pulling to get the tube out. There's no fitting on the end of the tube so maybe the plastic got caught on something in the pan. She was in their faces when I left. So what's the collective wisdom of removing oil this way? And are aluminum pans really that big a problem with striping the threads? Steel Panned TR6, Mazda6 and Mazda3 here! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007 1:46 PM From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sat Aug 18 14:19:12 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 16:19:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help-MGB Message-ID: <009101c7e1d5$0adfc7f0$d5167247@fred8kwiskhcfu> I have a neighbor restoring a 70's MGB roadster and needs advice as to the correct color of the engine block, it is presnetly "black" and he just wants to make sure it does it correctly. Thanks "FT" From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Aug 18 14:29:33 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 14:29:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER? In-Reply-To: <005801c7e12c$f26144e0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> References: <024c01c7e123$05f31470$6a5636cc@navcom.com> <005801c7e12c$f26144e0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <46C756AD.1010803@tscusa.org> Michael Marr wrote: > > There is also a firey spirit produced in > Sweden, I believe, called akvavit. Its from the same root. > > > Mike ngen akvavit er Norsk, ja ? Hva vil jeg vet, er jeg akkurat en Amerikaner ! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Aug 18 14:31:25 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 14:31:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46C7571D.1040808@tscusa.org> tom white wrote: >> My Passport addendum is well stamped over the last 40 years >> thank-you, I've even been to Mississippi! > > You needed a passport to get into Mississippi? Where in the world are > you from? I thought all it took to enter Mississippi was a validated > IQ score of less than 100. > > Best regards, > Tom > No, you need a Passport to get OUT of Mississippi! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Aug 18 14:56:45 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 14:56:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Psychology od alcohol. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46C75D0D.2080904@tscusa.org> tom white wrote: > The professor then posed the question to the class, "What affect does > alcohol have on the brain?" > > Best regards, > Tom > makes you replace "f"'s with "d"'s too ... slurs ur typin. :> -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Aug 18 15:08:40 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 15:08:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas etc - labels? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46C75FD8.6020808@tscusa.org> Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 8/17/2007 8:16:00 PM Central Daylight Time, > tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > >> You should tell the folks that write the OED, and Merriam-Webster, and >> American Heritage that. They all seem to think differently. > What do they know about making whisky? > > Here's what Random House Collegiate says: > > "Whiskey: A distilled, alcoholic beverage made from grain..." > "Whisky: Whiskey, especially Scotch or Canadian whiskey." > > But looking at the bottles ... > The bottles I drink it from don't have no freakin' labels, just says "Mason" on the glass, comes from a good-ol-boy from Lou-zee-anna. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Aug 18 15:11:49 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 15:11:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? (Now Mississippi) In-Reply-To: <001f01c7e1a9$6f96e0b0$4ec4a210$@com> References: <46C638DD.3010700@tscusa.org> <001f01c7e1a9$6f96e0b0$4ec4a210$@com> Message-ID: <46C76095.8040801@tscusa.org> R. Ashford Little II wrote: > OK, I suppose it was only a matter of time before "yuse guys" starting > breaking out the Mississippi jokes. I'd invite "y'all" to come down and > visit my home state, but then once you found out how wonderful a state it is > then you'd want to stay, and ruin everything. So please don't come down to > the Coast and enjoy some of the world's best seafood, don't go to Vicksburg > or Natchez or the Delta for a truly magical experience and please, please > don't go to Oxford and decide that Money and other magazine were right to > name it one of the top places in the country to retire, and no matter where > you go in the state you'd probably be turned off by true Southern > hospitality. > > R. Ashford Little II > '70 TR6 > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > Ex-Pat Mississippian currently marooned in Atlanta Yo Ashford, I lived in Vicksburg back in 1982, commuting daily to Grand Gulf. I must say, Top-O-the-River was my favorite catfish joint!! My favorite festival - Natchez Crawfish Festival, one entry fee for the weekend, all you can eat or drink back then. Then I lived in Baton Rouge in 1984 commuting to St. Francesville, Fav's in the Rat area was Ralph and Kukoos, and "The Kitchen" started by Cajun Chef Don. Ah yes, Mississippi, the land of Kudzu, huge insects, catfish and mudbugs! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Aug 18 15:18:48 2007 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 17:18:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help-MGB Message-ID: MG, a nice shade of mauve might be appropriate:)Marty> Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 16:19:12 -0400> From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars-forum at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] Help-MGB> > I have a neighbor restoring a 70's MGB roadster and needs advice as to the> correct color of the engine block, it is presnetly "black" and he just wants> to make sure it does it correctly. Thanks "FT"> _______________________________________________> trmarty at hotmail.com> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > Triumphs mailing list> Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _________________________________________________________________ See what youre getting intobefore you go there http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507 From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Aug 18 15:34:51 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 17:34:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? References: Message-ID: <002601c7e1df$9c877c70$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Well Tom, how did you enjoy your visit? Inquiring minds from the South want to know. > You needed a passport to get into Mississippi? Where in the world are you > from? I thought all it took to enter Mississippi was a validated IQ score > of less than 100. From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sat Aug 18 14:44:05 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Shcwartz) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 14:44:05 Subject: [TR] Tinting glass update Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20070818144405.18ff40b4@pop.west.cox.net> Well as one lister suggested using glass paint made for stained glass applications, I went down to my local Michael's and sure enough, they had it. Made by Krylon specifically for glass. It wasn't quite as orange as I would have liked, but it is certainly better than what I had. Took about four coats, and interestingly, smelled like bug spray not like typical spray paint. - Now I'll see how it holds up in the real world with heat from the bulb and all. I'll post any negative findings - But if anybody needs to tint their parking lamp glass - it may be an option - Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Aug 18 15:53:56 2007 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 17:53:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1296 spitfire question Message-ID: Question for the Spitfire experts out there. I am working on a 1296 Spitfire for a friend and the crank pulley does not have any timing marks like the TR6's do. There is a disc mounted on the front that almost looks like a sprocket. This combination is mounted forward of the timing pointer thingy on the timing chain cover. This set up kind of looks er, different to me. Is this normal on a 1296? Marty _________________________________________________________________ Recharge--play some free games. Win cool prizes too! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_wlmailtextlink From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Aug 18 16:01:38 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 15:01:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] two folding seats? In-Reply-To: <003b01c7e142$51913370$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <003b01c7e142$51913370$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: 1 Red & 1 Black... ooooh I long to see this car on the road. Actually having both adjustable has some advantages. In addition to access to the area behind the drivers seat, the folding seats allow for some crude adjustment of how upright the back sits. A thin block of hardwood on the metal 'pads' that the bottom of the seat back rests on will yield a more upright seat -- which may or may not suit some. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" > Why might it be useful? I hope both can be used at the same time > (although 1 > is red and 1 is black) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Aug 18 16:04:08 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 15:04:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <8C9AFA1BCB7856B-858-65BD@FWM-D35.sysops.aol.com> References: <8C9AFA1BCB7856B-858-65BD@FWM-D35.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I think TeriAnn W recently had one for sale. I have cc'ed her in case she is off-list. Shipping can be expensive but it's much bettter than sourcing from an unknown on eBay. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 4:26 AM Subject: [TR] (no subject) > Does anyone have a good TR-3/4 cylinder head or know a place where one is > available. From spitlist at cox.net Sat Aug 18 16:42:51 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 15:42:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1296 spitfire question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000d01c7e1e9$1c1eab30$2202a8c0@newcomputer> Marty, The timing mark is for setting the static timing. The distributor on those engines have a vernier adjustor that is used to fine tune the timing. As I recall each click represents 1 degree of timing. Preset the vernier in the middle of its range when you set tie static timing and then use the proper number of clicks to set the advance you want. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 2:54 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] 1296 spitfire question Question for the Spitfire experts out there. I am working on a 1296 Spitfire for a friend and the crank pulley does not have any timing marks like the TR6's do. There is a disc mounted on the front that almost looks like a sprocket. This combination is mounted forward of the timing pointer thingy on the timing chain cover. This set up kind of looks er, different to me. Is this normal on a 1296? Marty _________________________________________________________________ Recharge--play some free games. Win cool prizes too! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_wlmailtextlink _______________________________________________ spitlist at cox.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From steven at newellboys.com Sat Aug 18 16:56:49 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 15:56:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph head identification page: where exactly? Message-ID: <46C77931.4000804@newellboys.com> Sorry, I can't find Teri Ann's Triumph head identification page. Could someone give me a clue? I looked on Teri Ann's page but didn't see it. Thanks. Steven From pfischer at rmi.net Sat Aug 18 17:31:32 2007 From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 18:31:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] Kansas City All British 9/1 - 9/2 Message-ID: <46C78154.1070600@rmi.net> The Kansas City All British Association invites you to our 26th annual show over Labor Day weekend. More to the point, two of your list members invite you: Pat Fischer and Roger Elliott, TR250, Spitfire, GT6. Well, half of a GT6 - it's apart, but not back together. Here is the show Web site: http://kcallbritish.tripod.com/ The Flatwater Austin Healey Club of Nebraska is coming down to put on their British Driving Skills test again. This is a fun event for beginners and the experienced alike. Our featured marque last year was Delorean; it was their 25th aniversary (the cars that is, not the owners) and our show's 25th anniversary, so it seemed entirely appropriate. We had a dual celebration! They had to do the driving skills test with their doors open. They don't have roll-down windows - who knew? If listers come, please let us know at the show who you are. We'd like to meet you. Pat From fishplate at charter.net Sat Aug 18 19:09:13 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 21:09:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Wiring Question Message-ID: <20070819010910.FCSL26124.aa02.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> I have a 1975 TR6, and I want the oil pressure light to illuminate...all I can get is a dull glow. Using the handy wiring diagram at http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf I see that the current for the oil pressure warning lamp must also pass through the brake failure warning lamp. Poking around with my voltmeter, I discover that the brake lamp has 12V available into it, but since the oil pressure lamp is "downstream", it only has a bit over 6V available. No wonder it barely glows. I unplugged the wire at the PDWA, but that made no difference. In fact, if that switch were grounded, there would be no oil pressure light glow at all... I assume it is meant to be this way, but I can't see any way for the oil pressure lamp to get a full 12V, and I see no indication that a 6V lamp should be installed in place of the normal lamps. What were they thinking when they designed it this way? Is there something that I'm missing? Jeff Scarbrough Perplexed, Ga. Spitfires and a TR6 P.S. Yes, I am aware that there is a gauge, but I'm a belt and suspenders guy, especially since the belt and suspenders came with the pants... -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/959 - Release Date: 8/17/2007 5:43 PM From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 18 19:23:00 2007 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 18:23:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering box References: <20070603233244.MNZR15873.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <00d901c7e1ff$7cda2650$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Hi group, A question if I may... perhaps a stupid question... I have a TR3 with a split steering column which is non-adjustable. The steering box has a filler plug in the top of the box. The steering column also has a steering box filler right below the area where the column splits. The question is why two filler spots? Is it because the filler plug on the top of the steering box is hard to reach with the front apron on the car? If that is the reason then how do you know when the box is full of oil if you use the upper filler (where the column splits)? If you were to fill the box and the column up to the bottom of the upper filler plug the box would be "overfilled" and seemingly the extra oil in the column would put pressure on all the seals in the box. Am I missing something in my understanding? Does the upper filler serve some other purpose? Does anyone know the answer? Thanks for your help... Mike Denman From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Aug 18 19:45:38 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 21:45:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering box In-Reply-To: <00d901c7e1ff$7cda2650$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Message-ID: >Hi group, > A question if I may... perhaps a stupid question... I have a TR3 with >a >split steering column which is non-adjustable. The steering box has a >filler >plug in the top of the box. The steering column also has a steering box >filler right below the area where the column splits. The question is why >two >filler spots? Is it because the filler plug on the top of the steering box >is hard to reach with the front apron on the car? Yes. If that is the reason then >how do you know when the box is full of oil if you use the upper filler >(where the column splits)? If you were to fill the box and the column up to >the bottom of the upper filler plug the box would be "overfilled" and >seemingly the extra oil in the column would put pressure on all the seals >in >the box. It just means it will take longer to empty, giving you more driving days between fill-ups. Am I missing something in my understanding? Does the upper filler >serve some other purpose? Does anyone know the answer? I bet Randall does. >Thanks for your help... >Mike Denman From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Aug 18 20:22:24 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 22:22:24 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Wiring Question Message-ID: In a message dated 8/18/2007 9:09:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, fishplate at charter.net writes: I have a 1975 TR6, and I want the oil pressure light to illuminate...all I can get is a dull glow....I assume it is meant to be this way, but I can't see any way for the oil pressure lamp to get a full 12V, and I see no indication that a 6V lamp should be installed in place of the normal lamps. What were they thinking when they designed it this way? Is there something that I'm missing? ==AM== It WAS intentional, in that Triumph simply provided a "cheap and cheerful" way to offer a bulb-check upon startup. I don't know about the voltages at each lamp, but what you describe is pretty much exactly how Triumph said it was supposed to work on the Mk3 Spitfire (only factory workshop manual I have at hand at the moment). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 18 22:42:32 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 22:42:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering box In-Reply-To: <00d901c7e1ff$7cda2650$210110ac@MIKESDELL> Message-ID: <20070819044221.3638A1879D0@autox.team.net> I don't have a split column on my '58 but I do have the plug on the steering column, about 2/3 down from the firewall. My understanding was that this was to lubricate the steer column only, so I filled it with 90w lube. The plug on the top of the steering gearbox is not too hard to get to if you first remove the horn. As there is no pressure being created inside the box, filling it up should have no ill effects, just longer between the next time you have to top it off. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Denman Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 7:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Bmcu at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 steering box Hi group, A question if I may... perhaps a stupid question... I have a TR3 with a split steering column which is non-adjustable. The steering box has a filler plug in the top of the box. The steering column also has a steering box filler right below the area where the column splits. The question is why two filler spots? Is it because the filler plug on the top of the steering box is hard to reach with the front apron on the car? If that is the reason then how do you know when the box is full of oil if you use the upper filler (where the column splits)? If you were to fill the box and the column up to the bottom of the upper filler plug the box would be "overfilled" and seemingly the extra oil in the column would put pressure on all the seals in the box. Am I missing something in my understanding? Does the upper filler serve some other purpose? Does anyone know the answer? Thanks for your help... Mike Denman _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/959 - Release Date: 8/17/2007 5:43 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/959 - Release Date: 8/17/2007 5:43 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 19 01:08:44 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 0:08:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering box Message-ID: <774001.1187507324190.JavaMail.root@web16> > If you were to fill the box and the column up to > the bottom of the upper filler plug the box would be "overfilled" and > seemingly the extra oil in the column would put pressure on all the seals in > the box. Am I missing something in my understanding? Book says to fill to the level of the upper plug, so that's what I do. The extra pressure on the seal is very minimal, it should be able to handle it with ease. Don't forget, all the steering components on a TR3 originally came from some other car (mostly a Mayflower as I recall). Likely the fill plug on the box was used in a different application. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 19 01:20:58 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 0:20:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Wiring Question Message-ID: <4801684.1187508058360.JavaMail.root@web16> > I assume it is meant to be this way, but I can't see any way for the > oil pressure lamp to get a full 12V, and I see no indication that a > 6V lamp should be installed in place of the normal lamps. > > What were they thinking when they designed it this way? Is there > something that I'm missing? I believe that the original design was that the brake warning lamp was a higher wattage than the oil warning lamp. Incandescent lights do not have a constant resistance, the resistance is much lower when they are cold than once they are lit. So, the lower wattage bulb lights first, and as a result gets the vast majority of the voltage. The higher wattage bulb won't light at all. If you are seeing an even 6/6 split, try putting either a higher power bulb in the brake warning, or a lower power one in the oil pressure. Randall From twakeman at razzolink.com Sun Aug 19 07:04:16 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 06:04:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph head identification page: where exactly? In-Reply-To: <46C77931.4000804@newellboys.com> References: <46C77931.4000804@newellboys.com> Message-ID: <46C83FD0.5080904@razzolink.com> Steven Newell wrote: > Sorry, I can't find Teri Ann's Triumph head identification page. Could > someone give me a clue? I looked on Teri Ann's page but didn't see it. Sorry. It is located in the frequently asked questions section http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/FAQ_heads.htm TeriAnn From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Aug 19 08:00:45 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:00:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] amp gauge wiring Message-ID: <00c301c7e269$583dff50$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Does it matter which of the 2 wires leading to the ammeter gauge goes to a particular terminal on the back of the gauge? I think my solid brown wire goes to the terminal that's closest to the left edge of the console (if your sitting in the car's seat). Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From Windoseat at aol.com Sun Aug 19 08:02:22 2007 From: Windoseat at aol.com (Windoseat at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:02:22 EDT Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer Message-ID: One was on the Grass Roots Motorsports website in an article on the Group 44 GT6. The other was in a Triumphtune article on modifying the GT6. it had to do with having to mount the steering rack low to clear the oil pan. Greg ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 19 08:02:49 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:02:49 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/18/2007 10:07:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > As to the IQ issue, I think you might want to check this out: > > http://ralittle2.com/YesWeCanRead5Col.pdf > It's interesting that Tennessee Williams, who was a St. Louis native and did much of his writing in New Orleans made the list. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 19 08:04:36 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:04:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/18/2007 10:07:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > Now that I've said my peace on Mississippi I might as well chime in on the > beer front. Newcastle is my beer of choice. It simply creamy delicious! > But I do think you are overlooking one good thing about the Bud-type beers > of the world. I refer to them as "fishing beers." What's that? Well, when > I'm out at the islands doing some trout fishing (you don't want to do that > either) and it's 95 degrees in the shade, I really don't want to be sipping > on a Guinness or Newcastle. That's when fishing beer comes into the > picture. You can down a Coors light or similar and it's cold and refreshing > even if it doesn't really have any taste. > I thought that this is what mint juleps were invented for. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Aug 19 07:59:16 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 09:59:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] amp gauge wiring In-Reply-To: <00c301c7e269$583dff50$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00c301c7e269$583dff50$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200708190959.16704.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 19 August 2007 10:00 am, Paul Dorsey wrote: > Does it matter which of the 2 wires leading to the ammeter gauge goes to a > particular terminal on the back of the gauge? I think my solid brown wire > goes to the terminal that's closest to the left edge of the console (if > your sitting in the car's seat). > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 Paul, Yes it does matter. If you hook it up wrong the meter will record a discharge when it is charging and visa-versa. But I cant remember which wire goes where and it is too cramp to take a look. My advice is to hook it up the way you suggest and then turn on the ignition switch. If you hook it up correctly the needle will move to the - a bit. Bob From Windoseat at aol.com Sun Aug 19 08:18:31 2007 From: Windoseat at aol.com (Windoseat at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:18:31 EDT Subject: [TR] [Spits] GT6 Bump Steer Message-ID: Skip; I remember that book. I used the technique to eliminate bump steer and and another issue on my Toyota Corolla racer. I don't know what happened to the book but I'm going to see if I can find another copy of it. I also had a book (notebook) that had a lot of information on suspension design and formulas for calculating suspension layouts. Greg ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Sun Aug 19 08:20:32 2007 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:20:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help-MGB Message-ID: <2C72F1A2-E5A1-4B66-97C6-A9C6B8517D4D@mgcarclub.com> > I have a neighbor restoring a 70's MGB roadster and needs advice as > to the > correct color of the engine block, it is presnetly "black" and he > just wants > to make sure it does it correctly. Thanks "FT" My wife has a '71 MGB and the engine block is black. They did change at some point from maroon to black but I don't know the date offhand. Black on a '70 is probably correct. Time for your neighbor to join the MGs list. Allen Hess From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Aug 19 08:30:20 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:30:20 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/19/2007 9:05:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: It's interesting that Tennessee Williams, who was a St. Louis native and did much of his writing in New Orleans made the list. Tennessee Williams was born in Columbus, Mississippi in the home of his maternal grandfather - the home is now the Mississippi welcome center and tourist office for the city - his family moved from Columbus to Clarksdale, Mississippi before later moving to St. Louis. Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Aug 19 08:31:03 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:31:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 boot (trunk) In-Reply-To: <200708190959.16704.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <000401c7e26d$92379fa0$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> When I restored my TR3B, there was a detachable cross-member on the inside of the boot (trunk). The TR3A I am now restoring does not have one. Is this correct for the model or do I need to go find one ? Thanks to all ! Andrew Uprichard From twakeman at razzolink.com Sun Aug 19 08:34:03 2007 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 07:34:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 boot (trunk) In-Reply-To: <000401c7e26d$92379fa0$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> References: <000401c7e26d$92379fa0$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <46C854DB.1040708@razzolink.com> Andrew Uprichard wrote: > When I restored my TR3B, there was a detachable cross-member on the inside > of the boot (trunk). The TR3A I am now restoring does not have one. Is > this correct for the model or do I need to go find one ? Thanks to all ! Depends upon the year. Later ones are detachable. The change over commission # may be given in the TRA concourse judging handbook. It is the first place I would look. TeriAnn From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 19 08:37:57 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:37:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas etc - labels? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/18/2007 4:09:04 PM Central Daylight Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > The bottles I drink it from don't have no freakin' labels, just says > "Mason" on the glass, comes from a good-ol-boy from Lou-zee-anna. > What?!!! No paper label that says "Karn Licker?" Dave From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Aug 19 08:38:48 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:38:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 boot (trunk) References: <000401c7e26d$92379fa0$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <003201c7e26e$a7bb7a30$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> If what you mean is the "X" shaped piece that attaches under the boot lid. My 3A has one at TS76120L. I know the earlier 3's did not have them, but don't know where the change was ... with the 60,000 changes I suppose. I don't imagine that they'd remove it for the 3B though. Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:31 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 boot (trunk) > When I restored my TR3B, there was a detachable cross-member on the inside > of the boot (trunk). The TR3A I am now restoring does not have one. Is > this correct for the model or do I need to go find one ? Thanks to all ! > > Andrew Uprichard > _______________________________________________ > tfansher at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Aug 19 08:45:56 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:45:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? References: Message-ID: <003d01c7e26f$a6ba8f80$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> I just finished bottling a batch of Russian Stout that will be ready in about 5 weeks - I don't expect that I knock back two or three after a hot afternoon of mowing the lawn. But I will fill my 24 oz. frozen mug with Coors Light and jump in the pool. That's refreshing!! The stout will be more for sipping and a slower enjoyment and for sharing with friends.. the same can be said for Mint Juleps and neat scotch, for that matter. I just enjoy them all in different settings. Stella Artois and "1694" seem to be good sellers in the UK and a more "american" taste. IMO for what it's worth - just wasting the morning waiting until it's beer thirty. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:04 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? > In a message dated 8/18/2007 10:07:52 AM Central Daylight Time, > 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: >> Now that I've said my peace on Mississippi I might as well chime in on >> the >> beer front. Newcastle is my beer of choice. It simply creamy delicious! >> But I do think you are overlooking one good thing about the Bud-type >> beers >> of the world. I refer to them as "fishing beers." What's that? Well, >> when >> I'm out at the islands doing some trout fishing (you don't want to do >> that >> either) and it's 95 degrees in the shade, I really don't want to be >> sipping >> on a Guinness or Newcastle. That's when fishing beer comes into the >> picture. You can down a Coors light or similar and it's cold and >> refreshing >> even if it doesn't really have any taste. >> > I thought that this is what mint juleps were invented for. > _______________________________________________ > tfansher at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 19 08:51:52 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:51:52 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Wiring Question Message-ID: In a message dated 8/18/2007 8:09:39 PM Central Daylight Time, fishplate at charter.net writes: > I assume it is meant to be this way, but I can't see any way for the > oil pressure lamp to get a full 12V, and I see no indication that a > 6V lamp should be installed in place of the normal lamps. > > What were they thinking when they designed it this way? Is there > something that I'm missing? > > What were they thinking? They were thinking that a brake failure is much more hazardous to your health than oil pressure failure. The latter could result in a ruined engine, the former could result in a lost life. And like Andy said, it was a cheap and dirty bulb check for the brake failure warning light. Years ago a friend had a purpose built autocross car with an aftermarket brake light (think 4 inch diameter) mounted on the roll cage that would light up in response to the oil pressure switch. But that car was never driven on the street. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 19 08:59:59 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:59:59 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/19/2007 9:30:20 AM Central Daylight Time, McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: > Tennessee Williams was born in Columbus, Mississippi in the home of his > maternal grandfather - the home is now the Mississippi welcome center and > tourist office for the city - his family moved from Columbus to Clarksdale, > Mississippi before later moving to St. Louis. > > He was 7 years old when he moved to St. Louis meaning he spent his formative years there. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 19 09:06:26 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 11:06:26 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/19/2007 9:46:47 AM Central Daylight Time, tfansher at comcast.net writes: > I just finished bottling a batch of Russian Stout that will be ready in > about 5 weeks - I don't expect that I knock back two or three after a hot > afternoon of mowing the lawn. But I will fill my 24 oz. frozen mug with > Coors Light and jump in the pool. That's refreshing!! > Maybe I'm just wierd but when I'm hot and thursty I usually opt for ice water or iced tea. But then we only have a few weeks of reallyhot weather here and thankfully, this year the gras has turned brown and doesn't need mowing until the weather cools in a couple of weeks. Who wants to mow in 100 degree weather anyway? Dave From FGFO1 at aol.com Sun Aug 19 09:19:02 2007 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 11:19:02 EDT Subject: [TR] engine block paint Message-ID: so what has every one used to paint the block and heads. in the old days of lead paint i used ordinary home oil paint and never had any problem. any one try rustoleum brand? while the can says good to 200f i know there is always some fudge there. thanks Frank Fisher ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From spitlist at cox.net Sun Aug 19 09:54:57 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 08:54:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901c7e279$4a8aa970$2202a8c0@newcomputer> And who I might add was openly gay. Does Mississippi now accept gays? Stellaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 7:03 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In a message dated 8/18/2007 10:07:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > As to the IQ issue, I think you might want to check this out: > > http://ralittle2.com/YesWeCanRead5Col.pdf > It's interesting that Tennessee Williams, who was a St. Louis native and did much of his writing in New Orleans made the list. Dave _______________________________________________ From brianjone5 at mac.com Sat Aug 18 19:13:45 2007 From: brianjone5 at mac.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 21:13:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Whisk(e)y and steering Message-ID: <8C09F6E0-53C4-453B-85A1-8DDEFEF76B93@mac.com> Dave - you are right. That'll teach me to listen to NPR. Whisky is from from Scotland or Canada. Canada's Scottish heritage is probably the reason. http://www.miss-charming.com/bartender/bourbon.htm Also, regarding capitalisation, the one writing guide to hand has it 'Scotch whisky', but 'scotch' when on its own. Straying to Triumphs: I am working on my steering column. It started with repairing the steering wheel, which was badly cracked at 3 and 9 o'clock. It's been one of those jobs that became a 'while I'm here, I should....' so I've re-bushed the column, and have installed new felts and stiffened the bracket on the back side of the firewall with a plate. All is now solid. I mention this because I had had believed the rubber couplings in the steering column were in decent shape. What I could see of them looked sound.....but when I started to undo the bolts, the upper coupling pretty much fell apart. It was split from the backside (the backside when the car's wheels are straight), almost all the way through. I don't think the split would have been easy to spot even if it had been on the 'top side' while the rubber was compressed. Goodness knows what could have happened if that had completely failed at speed? Just a thought for anyone that has not checked their couplings in years /never...jack up the front of the car and loosen the four bolts at a coupling (only loosen, no need to remove, as they are a bitc# to get back in) examine the coupling now it is no longer squeezed by the shaft adaptors. Move a front wheel slightly to examine all sides of the coupling. Hopefully you won't find the deterioration I did, but if so, you'll be glad to know. The original job - the steering wheel - has turned out really well. I opened up the cracks in the rim with a dremel tool, and used PC-7 epoxy to rebuild the damaged areas. I found PC-7 took twice as long to cure as it said 'on the tin' but once cured, it is a dense, solid material that makes a sound repair. The pack of PC-7 that is like a double film-tube that the big-box-stores carry was plenty for my several repairs. Patience in sanding the epoxy to shape pays off. To refinish the rim of the wheel, I used a clear, bonding-promoting primer, followed by a sand-able primer (2 coats), followed by an epoxy gloss black paint (3 coats) to finish. The gloss epoxy paint claims a highly durable finish. Time will tell, but right now, the wheel looks terrific and as good as I could have hoped for. Eastwood offer kits for steering wheel repair: http:// www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=2571&itemType=PRODUCT ($41, or $11 cheaper without instructions). I just went to my local store... spent less and saved shipping. On fitting the bolts for the rubber coupling, the holes in the coupling are set a little wider apart than the holes in the adaptors. You can get the first three bolts in place with ease, but then the fourth must be almost 1/2" out of alignment. I had been struggling with a c-clamp to compress the rubber to align the bolt with no success. A quick interrogation of the archives told me to use a large circlip (hose clamp). Bingo, job done. Also, the couplings that I could find have recesses countersunk in the bolt holes (2 on on side and 2 on the other). This may be for the TR6. The TR4 needs no recesses, but that coupling is not available that I could find. I resolved this by orienting the coupling to bolt heads on the non-countersunk side, and the adaptor's foot to the coupling's recessed side. Brian 1962 TR4 I beg to differ. I just looked at my Seagram's (Canadian) bottle and it says "Whisky. From stevethornton at mycingular.blackberry.net Sun Aug 19 09:25:17 2007 From: stevethornton at mycingular.blackberry.net (=?utf-8?B?U3RldmUgVGhvcm50b24=?=) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 15:25:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <435884844-1187537111-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-476803553-@bxe020.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Hello all- Where is your sense of history? The mint julep was invented for the Kentucky Derby, always run on the first Saturday in May, after which you may wear white shoes or clothing. Sorry for the history and charm lesson, but these are hard and fast rules for many Kentuckians! Sot Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:04:36 To:triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In a message dated 8/18/2007 10:07:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > Now that I've said my peace on Mississippi I might as well chime in on the > beer front. Newcastle is my beer of choice. It simply creamy delicious! > But I do think you are overlooking one good thing about the Bud-type beers > of the world. I refer to them as "fishing beers." What's that? Well, when > I'm out at the islands doing some trout fishing (you don't want to do that > either) and it's 95 degrees in the shade, I really don't want to be sipping > on a Guinness or Newcastle. That's when fishing beer comes into the > picture. You can down a Coors light or similar and it's cold and refreshing > even if it doesn't really have any taste. > I thought that this is what mint juleps were invented for. _______________________________________________ sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From stevethornton at mycingular.blackberry.net Sun Aug 19 09:25:23 2007 From: stevethornton at mycingular.blackberry.net (=?utf-8?B?U3RldmUgVGhvcm50b24=?=) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 15:25:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <435884844-1187537117-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-41075508-@bxe020.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Hello all- Where is your sense of history? The mint julep was invented for the Kentucky Derby, always run on the first Saturday in May, after which you may wear white shoes or clothing. Sorry for the history and charm lesson, but these are hard and fast rules for many Kentuckians! Sot Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:04:36 To:triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In a message dated 8/18/2007 10:07:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > Now that I've said my peace on Mississippi I might as well chime in on the > beer front. Newcastle is my beer of choice. It simply creamy delicious! > But I do think you are overlooking one good thing about the Bud-type beers > of the world. I refer to them as "fishing beers." What's that? Well, when > I'm out at the islands doing some trout fishing (you don't want to do that > either) and it's 95 degrees in the shade, I really don't want to be sipping > on a Guinness or Newcastle. That's when fishing beer comes into the > picture. You can down a Coors light or similar and it's cold and refreshing > even if it doesn't really have any taste. > I thought that this is what mint juleps were invented for. _______________________________________________ sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From stevethornton at mycingular.blackberry.net Sun Aug 19 09:26:09 2007 From: stevethornton at mycingular.blackberry.net (=?utf-8?B?U3RldmUgVGhvcm50b24=?=) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 15:26:09 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <435884844-1187537163-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1615220851-@bxe020.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Hello all- Where is your sense of history? The mint julep was invented for the Kentucky Derby, always run on the first Saturday in May, after which you may wear white shoes or clothing. Sorry for the history and charm lesson, but these are hard and fast rules for many Kentuckians! Sot Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:04:36 To:triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In a message dated 8/18/2007 10:07:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > Now that I've said my peace on Mississippi I might as well chime in on the > beer front. Newcastle is my beer of choice. It simply creamy delicious! > But I do think you are overlooking one good thing about the Bud-type beers > of the world. I refer to them as "fishing beers." What's that? Well, when > I'm out at the islands doing some trout fishing (you don't want to do that > either) and it's 95 degrees in the shade, I really don't want to be sipping > on a Guinness or Newcastle. That's when fishing beer comes into the > picture. You can down a Coors light or similar and it's cold and refreshing > even if it doesn't really have any taste. > I thought that this is what mint juleps were invented for. _______________________________________________ sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From stevethornton at mycingular.blackberry.net Sun Aug 19 09:36:30 2007 From: stevethornton at mycingular.blackberry.net (=?utf-8?B?U3RldmUgVGhvcm50b24=?=) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 15:36:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <435884844-1187537784-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1594125279-@bxe020.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Hello all- Where is your sense of history? The mint julep was invented for the Kentucky Derby, always run on the first Saturday in May, after which you may wear white shoes or clothing. Sorry for the history and charm lesson, but these are hard and fast rules for many Kentuckians! Sot Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:04:36 To:triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In a message dated 8/18/2007 10:07:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > Now that I've said my peace on Mississippi I might as well chime in on the > beer front. Newcastle is my beer of choice. It simply creamy delicious! > But I do think you are overlooking one good thing about the Bud-type beers > of the world. I refer to them as "fishing beers." What's that? Well, when > I'm out at the islands doing some trout fishing (you don't want to do that > either) and it's 95 degrees in the shade, I really don't want to be sipping > on a Guinness or Newcastle. That's when fishing beer comes into the > picture. You can down a Coors light or similar and it's cold and refreshing > even if it doesn't really have any taste. > I thought that this is what mint juleps were invented for. _______________________________________________ sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From SOThornton at aol.com Sun Aug 19 09:39:31 2007 From: SOThornton at aol.com (SOThornton at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 15:39:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? Message-ID: <1644749448-1187537965-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2019671620-@bxe020.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Hello all- Where is your sense of history? The mint julep was invented for the Kentucky Derby, always run on the first Saturday in May, after which you may wear white shoes or clothing. Sorry for the history and charm lesson, but these are hard and fast rules for many Kentuckians! Sot ------Original Message------ From: Dave1massey at cs.com Sender: triumphs-bounces+sothornton=stevethorntonlaw.com at autox.team.net To: TR List Sent: Aug 19, 2007 9:04 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In a message dated 8/18/2007 10:07:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > Now that I've said my peace on Mississippi I might as well chime in on the > beer front. Newcastle is my beer of choice. It simply creamy delicious! > But I do think you are overlooking one good thing about the Bud-type beers > of the world. I refer to them as "fishing beers." What's that? Well, when > I'm out at the islands doing some trout fishing (you don't want to do that > either) and it's 95 degrees in the shade, I really don't want to be sipping > on a Guinness or Newcastle. That's when fishing beer comes into the > picture. You can down a Coors light or similar and it's cold and refreshing > even if it doesn't really have any taste. > I thought that this is what mint juleps were invented for. _______________________________________________ sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Aug 19 11:28:22 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 11:28:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: <003d01c7e26f$a6ba8f80$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> References: <003d01c7e26f$a6ba8f80$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <46C87DB6.3090907@tscusa.org> THOMAS FANSHER wrote: > I just finished bottling a batch of Russian Stout that will be ready in > about 5 weeks - > Tom You DOG!! You are a brewer?? Better have a case of that stuff in your trunk Tom if I am judging your Stag at a show ... Okay the single malt works too ... -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 19 12:08:37 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 14:08:37 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/19/2007 10:25:22 AM Central Daylight Time, stevethornton at mycingular.blackberry.net writes: > The mint julep was invented for the Kentucky Derby, always run on the first > Saturday in May, after which you may wear white shoes or clothing. > And who am I to argue with a Kentucky gentleman. Thanks for the update, sir. Dave From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Aug 19 12:20:07 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 12:20:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: <1644749448-1187537965-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2019671620-@bxe020.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1644749448-1187537965-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2019671620-@bxe020.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <46C889D7.8050008@tscusa.org> SOThornton at aol.com wrote: > Hello all- > > Where is your sense of history? > > The mint julep was invented for the Kentucky Derby, always run on the first Saturday in May, after which you may wear white shoes or clothing. > > > Sot > Does that mean after the Derby, You either wear white shoes OR clothes, clothes are optional? :> -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 19 12:26:56 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 14:26:56 EDT Subject: [TR] Whisk(e)y and steering Message-ID: In a message dated 8/19/2007 12:18:01 PM Central Daylight Time, brianjone5 at mac.com writes: > http://www.miss-charming.com/bartender/bourbon.htm I love this list. So enlightening. Dave From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Aug 19 12:38:06 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 12:38:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Get Ready for Triumphest 2007 in Laughlin NV Message-ID: <46C88E0E.6000807@tscusa.org> Okay all you North America Triumph owners, it is time to get your cars ready and reservations made for Triumphest 2007 in Laughlin Nevada. Triumphest 2007 is October 11-14 at the River Palms Resort Hotel in Laughlin, Nevada. Web site is http://www.triumphest.com/ Rumor has it that there will be lots of "Bond" Girls since the theme is the James Bond Movie, Diamonds are Forever. This is the official invitation to all of my TSC USA club members and fellow Triumph Stag enthusiasts to come to Triumphest 2007 - we will hold an AGM for all club members. Of course, everyone is invited regardless of where you live. Be there! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From bbrewer at tvwireless.net Sun Aug 19 12:40:47 2007 From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 11:40:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] engine block paint Message-ID: <5253C47F-F455-4620-8E7D-CB79D46A40FD@tvwireless.net> I used POR15 as a primer after soda blasting then painted with universal gray engine paint from Southern Auto Supply. I am still very happy with the job 3 years and 30,000 miles later. I liked the gray paint because it makes everything easier to see (like oil leaks...) when looking at the engine. Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA 1960 TR3A Message: 1 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 11:19:02 EDT From: FGFO1 at aol.com Subject: [TR] engine block paint To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" so what has every one used to paint the block and heads. in the old days of lead paint i used ordinary home oil paint and never had any problem. any one try rustoleum brand? while the can says good to 200f i know there is always some fudge there. thanks Frank Fisher From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sun Aug 19 13:24:42 2007 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 15:24:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] how to remove wax from windscreen gasket? Message-ID: <46C898FA.2040507@blacksburg.net> Listers, My project is finally to the point where I was able to install the windscreen gasket from TRF. It seems to have been impregnated with wax. The stuff has left a white, flaky covering all over, both sides. I've scraped literally for hours but the stuff still is present. Anyone have a solution for removing the stuff? I haven't called TRF yet (will do so first thing tomorrow). In the meantime, I'm open for solutions, as I hoped to install the windscreen this weekend. TIA Jim -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA 64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Aug 19 13:42:10 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 15:42:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] More questions? Message-ID: <00d201c7e299$0a3752e0$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> 1. Is there ever a problem created by dissassembling the oil pressure line on a TR3? 2. Will dripping a drop of hot solder onto a hot bullet connector make it into a good connector? Or will solder not really stick to these 'galvinized' pieces. 3. Where can I tie-into the console for 'non-switched device' such as an electric fan? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sun Aug 19 13:48:23 2007 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 15:48:23 EDT Subject: [TR] how to remove wax from windscreen gasket? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/19/07 3:26:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jhassall at blacksburg.net writes: << The stuff has left a white, flaky covering all over, both sides. I've scr aped literally for hours but the stuff still is present. >> That is usually mold release compound, did you try water and some bubbles? ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Aug 19 13:54:56 2007 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 12:54:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Narrow Belt Conversion Message-ID: I purchased the narrow belt conversion kit for the TR3 from Moss part #837-508, it looks great ... however there is a "sleeve" included that I have no idea where it goes ... of course there are NO instructions ... If anyone has had experience installing this kit I would appreciate a little/lot of advice. -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sun Aug 19 14:11:02 2007 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 16:11:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] how to remove wax from windscreen gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46C8A3D6.8040907@blacksburg.net> ZinkZ10C at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 8/19/07 3:26:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > jhassall at blacksburg.net writes: > > << The stuff has left a white, flaky covering all over, both sides. I've scr > aped literally for hours but the stuff still is present. >> > > That is usually mold release compound, did you try water and some bubbles? No, it really is wax. I've rolled up a ball of it so far. -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA 64 TR4 in autox preparation 95% finished, 90% to go From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Aug 19 14:13:48 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:13:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] More questions? In-Reply-To: <00d201c7e299$0a3752e0$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00d201c7e299$0a3752e0$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <02BA071BA96146C7B3F1754AA7568AA6@GeoPC> Paul -- 1. No. It works as before when reconnected, no bleeding needed. Of course don't run the engine with that line undone. 2. To solder a bullet connector you really need the inside of the connector clean, shiny, even scratched a bit helps. Wire should also be shiny clean. Then a bit of flux needs to get in there one way or another. I think the connectors are (plated) brass, not galvanized. 3. If you mean a radiator fan -- I used the horn circuit as this is always hot, has some big wires and is located near the radiator. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" > 1. Is there ever a problem created by dissassembling the oil pressure line > on > a TR3? > > 2. Will dripping a drop of hot solder onto a hot bullet connector make it > into > a good connector? Or will solder not really stick to these 'galvinized' > pieces. > > 3. Where can I tie-into the console for 'non-switched device' such as an > electric fan? From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Aug 19 14:30:44 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:30:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] how to remove wax from windscreen gasket? In-Reply-To: <46C8A3D6.8040907@blacksburg.net> References: <46C8A3D6.8040907@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: I get that too... seems to be eliminated then I put the windscreen under the bed for a few months (while I use an aeroscreen) and it comes back again. Lots of one of the usual rubber/vinyl treatments seems to help. Vaseline may also help. Seems like I am just masking it rather than getting rid of it so I'm interested in any other ideas too. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "J.C. Hassall" >> << The stuff has left a white, flaky covering all over, both sides. I've >> scr >> aped literally for hours but the stuff still is present. >> From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 19 14:51:47 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:51:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] how to remove wax from windscreen gasket? Message-ID: <27889852.1187556707071.JavaMail.root@web25> > > That is usually mold release compound, did you try water and some bubbles? > > No, it really is wax. I've rolled up a ball of it so far. Many mold release agents are wax-based, so you are probably both right, IMO. I've not had the problem myself, but I see that MMC has a mold cleaner that specifically removes release agents; or something like Arcyli-Clean would probably work well. A strong, alkaline detergent (like genuine TSP) and water would remove the wax, but might also damage the nearby paint if the gasket is already installed. Come to think of it, the mold cleaner might not be safe for paint, either. Try it out on an inconspicuous place first. But Arcyli-Clean is not supposed to harm healthy paint (tho it does tend to take off any oxidized paint on the surface). Randall From spitlist at cox.net Sun Aug 19 15:22:42 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 14:22:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] how to remove wax from windscreen gasket? In-Reply-To: <46C8A3D6.8040907@blacksburg.net> References: <46C8A3D6.8040907@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <001c01c7e2a7$1446d270$2202a8c0@newcomputer> I am venturing that the stuff you are describing is the same sort of stuff that was on my Spitfire gaskets. It turned brown after a while and was quite disgusting. I removed it with some cleaner that is designed for cleaning the surface of auto bodies prior to painting. It is called Acryli-Clean (from PPG) and goes by other names from other suppliers. NAPA calls it Final Prep (or something similar)/ Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of J.C. Hassall Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 1:11 PM To: ZinkZ10C at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] how to remove wax from windscreen gasket? ZinkZ10C at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 8/19/07 3:26:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > jhassall at blacksburg.net writes: > > << The stuff has left a white, flaky covering all over, both sides. I've scr > aped literally for hours but the stuff still is present. >> > > That is usually mold release compound, did you try water and some bubbles? No, it really is wax. I've rolled up a ball of it so far. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Aug 19 15:23:20 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:23:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] More questions? In-Reply-To: <00d201c7e299$0a3752e0$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00d201c7e299$0a3752e0$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200708191723.20769.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 19 August 2007 03:42 pm, Paul Dorsey wrote: > 1. Is there ever a problem created by dissassembling the oil pressure line > on a TR3? > Paul, No, as long as you replace or heat the copper washers to a red hot before reassembly. Remember that the washers are of different inside diameter. The washer with the larger diameter goes against the filter assembly and the other against the special nut. Also it is a good idea to replace that 50 year old flex line. The line on the TR4 project started leaking during break in! A very nice replacement is available at TRF and they were in stock when I replaced the one on the 3 which was not leaking and the 4 which was! > 2. Will dripping a drop of hot solder onto a hot bullet connector make it > into a good connector? Or will solder not really stick to these > 'galvinized' pieces. > All my bullet connectors on the 3 and 4 are soldered and contain shrink tubing in order to add strength. The connectors I have are brass and clean up nicely with a wire wheel for the outside and sand paper for the inside. I have never seen a galvanized bullet connector. Tinned with solder but not galvanized with zinc. > 3. Where can I tie-into the console for 'non-switched device' such as an > electric fan? A good spot is the wire that goes to the heater fan. This should be a solid green wire originating at A2 in the fuse panel. If you want the power to be only available when the ignition is on the wire would originate at A4 but there are a bunch of stuff on that circuit. Bob From wbeech at flash.net Sun Aug 19 15:40:05 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 15:40:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] engine block paint In-Reply-To: <5253C47F-F455-4620-8E7D-CB79D46A40FD@tvwireless.net> Message-ID: <20070819213958.AC0F1187A83@autox.team.net> Speaking of paint, I am soon to re-build the original engine for my TR3 and do not want to cause any deterioration of the original orange handpainted "TR 3" lettering that is on the lower right side of the block. Does anyone know what kind of paint this is and the best way presere it during the re-build? Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 12:41 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] engine block paint I used POR15 as a primer after soda blasting then painted with universal gray engine paint from Southern Auto Supply. I am still very happy with the job 3 years and 30,000 miles later. I liked the gray paint because it makes everything easier to see (like oil leaks...) when looking at the engine. Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA 1960 TR3A Message: 1 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 11:19:02 EDT From: FGFO1 at aol.com Subject: [TR] engine block paint To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" so what has every one used to paint the block and heads. in the old days of lead paint i used ordinary home oil paint and never had any problem. any one try rustoleum brand? while the can says good to 200f i know there is always some fudge there. thanks Frank Fisher _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM From ktnkt at comcast.net Sun Aug 19 15:52:37 2007 From: ktnkt at comcast.net (KT) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:52:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] More questions? Message-ID: <46C8BBA5.9070800@comcast.net> #1- Only if starting the car with the line removed..... #2- No. When soldering a connector, one needs a soldering iron to get the connector AND the wire inside it hot enough to melt the solder and pull it into the mating surfaces. This is a very handy tool when doing a restoration, as it also comes in handy for making the little holes in the new carpet for the seat frames bolts to mount to the floor.... Dropping hot solder onto the connector would be like spitting on it to make it all stick together. #3- I As George mentioned earlier, the horn would probably be a good choice, although adding a fuse would probably be a wise addition. Kevin T 1959 TR3A 1976 TR6 From: "Paul Dorsey" > > 1. Is there ever a problem created by dissassembling the oil pressure line > > on > > a TR3? > > > > 2. Will dripping a drop of hot solder onto a hot bullet connector make it > > into > > a good connector? Or will solder not really stick to these 'galvinized' > > pieces. > > > > 3. Where can I tie-into the console for 'non-switched device' such as an > > electric fan? From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Aug 19 17:14:50 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 19:14:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: <46C87DB6.3090907@tscusa.org> References: <003d01c7e26f$a6ba8f80$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <46C896AA.1107.13BF426E@localhost> Glenn A. Merrell wrote: > THOMAS FANSHER wrote: > > I just finished bottling a batch of Russian Stout that will be ready in > > about 5 weeks... > You DOG!! You are a brewer?? Real men open their beer with a real church key. I just opened a Harpoon IPA with a church key. Not a real one though 'cuz I was standing in the kitchen and my real one is in the toolbox in the garage where it belongs. -- Jim Muller, wondering if Lucas made stereos too and if that's why someone would keep beer in it '70 GT6 '80 Spitfire and I'm starting to have trouble typing. Spent the last 6 hours in a canoe and even the fingers feel heavy. Saw a nice dark blue TR6 parked, top-down, in Ayer, MA as we drove home. Was it one of you good folks? -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Aug 19 17:22:15 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 19:22:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: <46C889D7.8050008@tscusa.org> References: <1644749448-1187537965-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2019671620-@bxe020.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <46C89867.24359.13C60BBB@localhost> On 19 Aug 2007 at 12:20, Glenn A. Merrell wrote: > > The mint julep was invented for the Kentucky Derby, always run on > > the first Saturday in May, after which you may wear white shoes > > or clothing. > Does that mean after the Derby, You either wear white shoes OR > clothes, clothes are optional? :> I believe he is saying one or the other but not both. Mind you, he says nothing about what one can or can't wear before the Derby. And he implies nothing about what one must wear either before or after. Dontcha' just love English? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Aug 19 17:22:31 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 23:22:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] how to remove wax from windscreen gasket? In-Reply-To: <46C8A3D6.8040907@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: Try a wax remover from the hardware store. Be sure to test it on a piece of rubber similar to your gasket to be sure it is safe. Do not use Goof Off, and don't ask me how I know that. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Booking a flight? Know when to buy with airfare predictions on MSN Travel. http://travel.msn.com/Articles/aboutfarecast.aspx&ocid=T001MSN25A07001 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Aug 19 17:28:06 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 23:28:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] Church key. In-Reply-To: <46C896AA.1107.13BF426E@localhost> Message-ID: I have a real, probably '50s vintage, real church key for sale for the right price. It is an heirloom from my Father. It probably represents the bulk on my inheritance. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ A new home for Mom, no cleanup required. All starts here. http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 19 19:03:33 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 21:03:33 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/19/2007 6:15:22 PM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > Real men open their beer with a real church key. I just opened a > Harpoon IPA with a church key. Not a real one though 'cuz I was > standing in the kitchen and my real one is in the toolbox in the > garage where it belongs. > Absolutely it belongs out there. Heck, you don't want to wake up and have to go all the way into the house to open a beer. Dave From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Aug 19 19:39:20 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 21:39:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Beer in Stereo ++ Very True Story Message-ID: <004d01c7e2ca$ee00ced0$fc1c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> In the very small town outside Mt. Vernon Virginia (Engleside VA), in 1943 two brothers went into the grocery store and order 500 lbs. sugar and 100 gallon jars, when the order came in a few days the "revenue boys" were waiting in hiding, followed the brothes back to the employees entrance to Mt. Vernon and then waited until dark to climb the brick wall surrounding M.V. and discovered a "Still" in operation, next day they arrested the brothers and busted up the "Still", neither one received any jail time, just a warning to stop and stop now, my "FATHER" continued to work there and retired after 52 years, I spent many a summer night in Georges belongings. To test good "shine or lighting" pour a shot on a table top then light it, better burn blue, if it's green don't drink, it's lead alcohol and very deadly, remember it all very clearly, never saw bottled liquor with a label on it until almost 20 years old, store bought never did have much taste or kick to it, smelt a lots better. "FT" From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Aug 19 19:52:06 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 21:52:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas - BEER in S-T-E-R-E-O? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46C8BB86.5377.144F3C32@localhost> On 19 Aug 2007 at 21:03, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > my real [church key] is in the toolbox in the > > garage where it belongs. > Absolutely it belongs out there. Heck, you don't want to wake up > and have to go all the way into the house to open a beer. Well of course not! But the real reason is you need it open oil cans. Real oil comes in cans, not in plastic screw-top bottles. Older real oil comes in glass jars with metal conical spouts screwed on, but most folks didn't keep that sort in the the garage. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Aug 19 21:28:18 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 23:28:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] S2 instead of S1 Message-ID: <011201c7e2da$28789ed0$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Over the years, somehow I have ended up with two TR3 'starter-push' switches. So I took out the ineffective 'panel-light switch' and have been able to replace it with my second 's-p' switch. My aim is to add 'a little more' theft protection requiring one to simultaneously push both for starter to turn. What do you think? However, to activate my 'panel-lights' I am hoping to be able to put it's 'red-wire-terminals' on S2 instead of S1 (on the lighting switch). Will this work? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 19 21:43:43 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 20:43:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] S2 instead of S1 Message-ID: <25919353.1187581423953.JavaMail.root@web15> > However, to activate my 'panel-lights' I am hoping to be able to put it's > 'red-wire-terminals' on S2 instead of S1 (on the lighting switch). Will this > work? Well, yeah, but it means the panel lights will only come on with the headlights, and you'll still have no way to turn the panel lights off when the headlights are on. Randall From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Aug 19 21:43:35 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 21:43:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas - Makers Mark in Derby land? In-Reply-To: <46C89867.24359.13C60BBB@localhost> References: <1644749448-1187537965-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2019671620-@bxe020.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <46C89867.24359.13C60BBB@localhost> Message-ID: <46C90DE7.50207@tscusa.org> Jim Muller wrote: > On 19 Aug 2007 at 12:20, Glenn A. Merrell wrote: > > >>> The mint julep was invented for the Kentucky Derby, always run on >>> the first Saturday in May, after which you may wear white shoes >>> or clothing. >>> >> Does that mean after the Derby, You either wear white shoes OR >> clothes, clothes are optional? :> >> > > I believe he is saying one or the other but not both. Mind you, he > says nothing about what one can or can't wear before the Derby. And > he implies nothing about what one must wear either before or after. > > Dontcha' just love English? Well Jim, I lived in Lexington KY for three years too in my traveling consulting days, and had been to one formal and a few informal Derby parties. After a couple of gallons of Makers Mark disappears and the hours grow into the wee morning, there is a new definition to the word "proper" and southern hospitality. I'll stop there :> -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From mlang at easystreet.com Sun Aug 19 22:54:41 2007 From: mlang at easystreet.com (Beth Lang) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 21:54:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 boot (trunk) In-Reply-To: <003201c7e26e$a7bb7a30$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> References: <000401c7e26d$92379fa0$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> <003201c7e26e$a7bb7a30$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <46C91E91.6020602@easystreet.com> I have a 57 TR3 and a later TR3A. The TR3 has an "X" support formed out of sheet metal which I think is spot welded to the underside of the trunk lid. The TR3A has the detachable cross member. I think the one for your 3A may be missing. Between us, we have examples of TR3's, TR3A's, and TR3B's that all have variations of it, so I agree with Tom. I doubt that they discontinued it for a stretch in the middle of production. Mike THOMAS FANSHER wrote: > If what you mean is the "X" shaped piece that attaches under the boot lid. > My 3A has one at TS76120L. I know the earlier 3's did not have them, but > don't know where the change was ... with the 60,000 changes I suppose. I > don't imagine that they'd remove it for the 3B though. > Tom > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 73 Stag > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Andrew Uprichard" > To: > Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:31 AM > Subject: [TR] TR3 boot (trunk) > > > >> When I restored my TR3B, there was a detachable cross-member on the inside >> of the boot (trunk). The TR3A I am now restoring does not have one. Is >> this correct for the model or do I need to go find one ? Thanks to all ! >> >> Andrew Uprichard From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 19 22:37:17 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 21:37:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas Beer in Stereo ++ Very True Story Message-ID: <28542402.1187584637439.JavaMail.root@web15> > To test good "shine or lighting" > pour a shot on a table top then light it, better burn blue, if it's green > don't drink, it's lead alcohol and very deadly, Well, I just learned something ! I knew it was common practise to use an old truck radiator for the condensor, and the shine would leach the lead out of the solder ... but never knew how to test for it. Randall From portermd at zianet.com Sun Aug 19 22:50:51 2007 From: portermd at zianet.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 22:50:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas Beer in Stereo ++ Very True Story In-Reply-To: <28542402.1187584637439.JavaMail.root@web15> References: <28542402.1187584637439.JavaMail.root@web15> Message-ID: <46C91DAB.9020503@zianet.com> tr3driver at ca.rr.com wrote: >> To test good "shine or lighting" >> pour a shot on a table top then light it, better burn blue, if it's green >> don't drink, it's lead alcohol and very deadly, >> > > Well, I just learned something ! I knew it was common practise to use an old truck radiator for the condensor, and the shine would leach the lead out of the solder ... but never knew how to test for it. > > If I remember my chemistry correctly, flame tests for copper ions are also green. The difference in color should be noted--copper burns bluish-green, while a pale sea-foam green color indicates lead. So, someone being very careful to exclude lead from their copper distilling equipment would be tarred unfairly by this flame test. As well, this test would indicate little about the much greater danger in moonshine--wood alcohol. All commonly available alcohols burn with a light, barely perceptible blue flame, and it would take some discernment to note the flame difference between methanol and ethanol. Cheers. -- Michael D. Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Aug 20 06:02:48 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 08:02:48 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas Beer in Stereo ++ Very True Story Message-ID: In a message dated 8/19/2007 11:37:40 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Well, I just learned something ! I knew it was common practise to use an > old truck radiator for the condensor, and the shine would leach the lead out > of the solder ... but never knew how to test for it. > I'll bet that first batch comes out a little sweet. Dave From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Aug 20 06:12:01 2007 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 08:12:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan In-Reply-To: <01f801c7e103$f8e00190$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: I just realized that the aluminum oil pan on my TR3A does not have the splash plate (or whatever it is called). What is its purpose (Or how does it protect against splash)? And is it absolutely necessary? I have sourced one in Europe but before I spend the $ (short supply right now) thought I would ask the collective wisdom of the list.... Does anyone know of a source here in the states? Thanks Carl 61 TR3A TS81802LO Tampa, Florida From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 20 07:05:31 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 13:05:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] Real liquor. In-Reply-To: <004d01c7e2ca$ee00ced0$fc1c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: My Great Grandfather was issued a liquor license in Morgan County Tennessee on April 21, 1879. The tradition continued in my family for generations. When I visited Tennessee in 1978 my cousin was making his living running "Shine" into Chattanooga. He took me up to the hills and introduced me to Billy Bob the moonshiner. I think I almost died from the alcohol poisoning that followed the ensuing afternoon of libations. In the thirties the resident bootlegger in Spring City Tennessee was a man named Bottle Reed. The sheriff new well how Bottle Reed made his living and had to look good to the pious residents. So the sheriff and Bottle Reed came to an agreement. Bottle Redd agreed not to distribute his wares inside the city limits and the sheriff agreed to leave him alone. One Saturday night in the middle of winter the sheriff found Bottle Redd at the local barn dance. Thinking Bottle Reed was selling his moonshine to the locals the seriff put him on his horse and ran him through Piney Creek. Now Piney Creek is icy cold in the winter and Bottle Reed was less than pleased with the event. But Bottle Reed went home disgruntled, wet, and cold. Later that evening the sheriff discovered that Bottle Reed had not been selling any product at the dance and was just there enjoying the entertainment. Feeling bad about what he had done the sheriff went out to Bottle Reed's cabin to apologize. The sheriff stepped onto Bottle Reed's front porch and knocked on the front door. Bottle Redd called out, "Who is there." The sheriff replied with his name. Bottle Reed then unloaded both barrels of his shotgun through the door. Spring City elected a new sheriff and the incident was relegated to folklore. Today half of Spring city is owned by the descendants of Bottle Redd. They are major supporters of local charities and other philanthropic organizations. As you drive down Hwy 27 approaching the city you will see the Reed name on several of the business signs. This story serves to validate the fact that Southerners have their priorities in proper order. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Learn.Laugh.Share. Reallivemoms is right place! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Aug 20 07:12:46 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 09:12:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Real liquor. In-Reply-To: References: <004d01c7e2ca$ee00ced0$fc1c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <46C95B0E.16006.17C224@localhost> On 20 Aug 2007 at 13:05, tom white wrote: > The tradition continued in my family for generations... > This story serves to validate the fact that Southerners have their > priorities in proper order. Great story, Tom. And do hold on to that church key. One day it will be worth a fortune on eBay, but you'll regret letting it go. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 20 07:13:10 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 13:13:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] Theft deterrents. In-Reply-To: <011201c7e2da$28789ed0$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: My theory is that the more theft deterrents you have the better. On my TR3A I have a battery cut off switch, a fuel shut off switch, a concealed ignition cut off switch, and I can reach under the dash and disconnect the wire to the fuel pump easily. If a thief manages to figure out all of these before I return to my car then the two minute time delayed detonator of the pound of C-4 finishes the job. If I can't have my car then no one can. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Messenger Cafi  open for fun 24/7. Hot games, cool activities served daily. Visit now. http://cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_AugHMtagline From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 20 07:21:37 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 13:21:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] Testing alcohol. In-Reply-To: <46C91DAB.9020503@zianet.com> Message-ID: There are only two tests my family used for corn liquor. The first is to shake the liquor in it's Mason jar to see how many bubbles form. This test indicates the strength of the and clarity of the product. The second test is the taste test. If you can stand up and walk after five shots the liquor is no good. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Find a local pizza place, movie theater, and more.then map the best route! http://maps.live.com/default.aspx?v=2&ss=yp.bars~yp.pizza~yp.movie%20theater&cp=42.358996~-71.056691&style=r&lvl=13&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=950607&encType=1&FORM=MGAC01 From wbeech at flash.net Mon Aug 20 08:05:10 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 08:05:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070820140502.348C0187A2A@autox.team.net> A more correct name for it would be a "Bash Plate" or "Skid Plate" as it's job is to protect the pan from physical damage from things in the road. I too have that extra large alloy pan, the super tanker allows for 8 quarts of oil in the system for extra cooling, no bash plate and I have not noticed any scars to indicate I should get one. If you are planning to run the Baja Rally next year I would highly recommend that you get one, for normal driving on city streets you are probably pretty safe without it. "Splash Plates" are usually located closer to the front of the engine, under the fan, to protect from excessive water being splashed onto the engine when you are driving in heavy rain (in a TR3?...right) or through deep water. It's not a metal plate as much as it is a piece of heavy plastic to provide this protection, again, I have never seen one for a TR3. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 6:12 AM To: 'list Triumph' Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan I just realized that the aluminum oil pan on my TR3A does not have the splash plate (or whatever it is called). What is its purpose (Or how does it protect against splash)? And is it absolutely necessary? I have sourced one in Europe but before I spend the $ (short supply right now) thought I would ask the collective wisdom of the list.... Does anyone know of a source here in the states? Thanks Carl 61 TR3A TS81802LO Tampa, Florida _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM From peb3 at cornell.edu Mon Aug 20 09:00:41 2007 From: peb3 at cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 11:00:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] what's wrong with this picture? Message-ID: http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/prsm.dll?eventorder?photo=040Y004C000091&start=0&album=0&adjust=-1 -- Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) Middlebury Center, PA (visit our new location!) '71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) From steven at newellboys.com Mon Aug 20 09:48:13 2007 From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 08:48:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph head identification page: where exactly? In-Reply-To: <46C83FD0.5080904@razzolink.com> References: <46C77931.4000804@newellboys.com> <46C83FD0.5080904@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <46C9B7BD.8020008@newellboys.com> TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > Steven Newell wrote: > >> Sorry, I can't find Teri Ann's Triumph head identification page. >> Could someone give me a clue? I looked on Teri Ann's page but didn't >> see it. > > Sorry. It is located in the frequently asked questions section > http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/FAQ_heads.htm Thanks, TerriAnn. I suppose, having looked at all the other pages, a clever fellow would have checked the FAQs. :) I ran into a fellow who has a few heads from unknown TRs, and your site was a big help. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 etc. From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com Mon Aug 20 09:50:25 2007 From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 10:50:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 upper inside door pull - what glue? Message-ID: I have a 1973 TR6 with the inside door pull located at the top of the door - a truly bad design. Someday, I'll convert to the older style door panel with a proper pull handle in the middle. In the meantime, can anyone recommend a good strong glue for this? I've had it pulled off once too often as of late by passengers unfamiliar with its frailty. Contact cement doesn't seem to do the trick for me, there must be something better. Thanks much in advance, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Aug 20 11:49:31 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 13:49:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan- ME? Message-ID: <002e01c7e352$77c1ee10$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am proud to be able to weigh in on such a especially deep subject since I've never had my TR3 running. (maybe in a couple of months I will) However, when I took my chassis off my homemade rotisserie (something I won't do again), I went down to our defunct tractor and unbolted a small piece of the bush hog and mounted it under the radiator. My objective was, hopefully, to keep the forwardmost cross-piece from 'catching something on the road'. It may achieve this objective, it may not. In theory, a too-high piece of railroad track (for example) would first hit this plate and 'ride-over' the cross-piece. It is 1/4" steel. I shudder when someone wrote on the list how their TR "caught the tracks", but, I never thought of a water aspect. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Aug 20 11:55:48 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 13:55:48 EDT Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan- ME? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/20/2007 10:50:06 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, dorpaul at negia.net writes: I shudder when someone wrote on the list how their TR "caught the tracks", but, I never thought of a water aspect. TS41723L has the bottom of both front frame rails peeled back ljke a sardine can for maybe an inch. An inch is about how far the car traveled when it caught on the rails on San Fernando Road and one of the industrial near 5121 Colorado Blvd. one night in 1964. I was doing probably 25-30 or so. What a surprise. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Aug 20 12:03:32 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 14:03:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: S2 instead of S1 Message-ID: <003201c7e354$6d8b6b40$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Randall, You know I have zero 'driving experience' with this car. Do you mean that normally on a TR3 one has to manually turn on, or at least leave the panel-light switch set to 'on', in order to have their panel lights work? They don't necessarily come 'on' with the headlights? Why not have the panel lights come on (and stay on) with the headlights? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 > >> However, to activate my 'panel-lights' I am hoping to be able to put it's >> 'red-wire-terminals' on S2 instead of S1 (on the lighting switch). Will >> this >> work? > > Well, yeah, but it means the panel lights will only come on with the > headlights, and you'll still have no way to turn the panel lights off when > the headlights are on. > > Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 20 12:54:10 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 11:54:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] S2 instead of S1 In-Reply-To: <003201c7e354$6d8b6b40$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <003201c7e354$6d8b6b40$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <038401c7e35b$7ed64850$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Do you mean that > normally on a TR3 one has to manually turn on, or at least leave the > panel-light switch set to 'on', in order to have their panel > lights work? Yes, that's exactly right. Most people just leave it 'on' most of the time. > They don't necessarily come 'on' with the headlights? > > Why not have the panel lights come on (and stay on) with the > headlights? On a dark night, _any_ light shining in your face makes it harder to see the road. This is the reason for the switch/dimmer (I believe your car is late enough it should have the dimmer, but TR2-early 3A only had a switch), so you can dim or turn off entirely the dash lights when you need to see better at night. As dim as the original panels lights are, turning them off still helps when it's really dark (no moon). Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From jerryvv at adelphia.net Mon Aug 20 12:57:11 2007 From: jerryvv at adelphia.net (jerryvv at adelphia.net) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 11:57:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan Message-ID: <31202485.1187636231144.JavaMail.root@web39> Carl, Are you refering to the internal windage tray that fits between the pan and the block or as others are indicating the external skid plate that provides some protection for the pan as it does sit about an inch lower than the frame? The windage tray is important and is used to prevent the oil from flowing up the inside of the block during cornering and perhaps leaving the pick up screen without any oil to pick up for the oil pump. It's important but you can run without it too. I did for several years until I could fabricate a correct windage tray. If on the other hand you are refering to the skid plate then I'd pay attention to the other folks who have written to you. JVV ---- Carl TR wrote: > I just realized that the aluminum oil pan on my TR3A does not have the > splash plate (or whatever it is called). > > What is its purpose (Or how does it protect against splash)? And is it > absolutely necessary? I have sourced one in Europe but before I spend > the $ (short supply right now) thought I would ask the collective wisdom > of the list.... > > Does anyone know of a source here in the states? > > Thanks > Carl > 61 TR3A TS81802LO > Tampa, Florida From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 20 14:19:53 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 13:19:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pans...No LBC Content In-Reply-To: References: <46C6414A.8010208@verizon.net> Message-ID: <039501c7e367$7945e970$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > An after market self threading oil pan plug will correct the > over bearing > force of enthusiasm that strips out these drain plugs. Unless of course, as happened to me, there is a chunk of aluminum broken out of the inside edge. The gorilla apparently cross-threaded the plug, then put an impact wrench on it. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 20 14:22:40 2007 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (KURT JOHNSON) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 13:22:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] what's wrong with this picture? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <733513.66826.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I don't think the wheelie bars were stock for that year MGA. --- "Philip E. Barnes" wrote: > http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/prsm.dll?eventorder?photo=040Y004C000091&start=0&album=0&adjust=-1 > -- > Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) > Middlebury Center, PA (visit our new location!) > '71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) > _______________________________________________ > kajohns64 at yahoo.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph > Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 20 14:29:58 2007 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 13:29:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Lucas Beer in Stereo ++ Very True Story In-Reply-To: <46C91DAB.9020503@zianet.com> Message-ID: <470128.50169.qm@web81705.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Mike old buddy, good to see you are still around! Did you ever get my old TR4 restored? --- Michael Porter wrote: > tr3driver at ca.rr.com wrote: > >> To test good "shine or lighting" > >> pour a shot on a table top then light it, better > burn blue, if it's green > >> don't drink, it's lead alcohol and very deadly, > >> > > > > Well, I just learned something ! I knew it was > common practise to use an old truck radiator for the > condensor, and the shine would leach the lead out of > the solder ... but never knew how to test for it. > > > > > > If I remember my chemistry correctly, flame tests > for copper ions are > also green. The difference in color should be > noted--copper burns > bluish-green, while a pale sea-foam green color > indicates lead. So, > someone being very careful to exclude lead from > their copper distilling > equipment would be tarred unfairly by this flame > test. As well, this > test would indicate little about the much greater > danger in > moonshine--wood alcohol. All commonly available > alcohols burn with a > light, barely perceptible blue flame, and it would > take some discernment > to note the flame difference between methanol and > ethanol. > > > Cheers. > > -- > Michael D. Porter > Roswell, NM > > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's > within walking distance.... > _______________________________________________ > kajohns64 at yahoo.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph > Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more. http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Aug 20 14:31:39 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 13:31:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan- ME? In-Reply-To: <002e01c7e352$77c1ee10$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <002e01c7e352$77c1ee10$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Could have used some of that water protection when I came over a rise and found a normally dry wash running full (& muddy)... http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/muddy%20engine.JPG ...but still better than Mike's RR tracks stunt of 30-to-zero in .02 seconds. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" > > I shudder when someone wrote on the list how their TR "caught the tracks", > but, I never thought of a water aspect. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Aug 20 15:05:49 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 17:05:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] what's wrong with this picture? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000b01c7e36d$e496b190$210110ac@bobspc> Umm.... He needs to "take out some clutch" for a proper start off the line? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Philip E. Barnes Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 11:01 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] what's wrong with this picture? http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/prsm.dll?eventorder?photo=040Y004C000091 &start=0&album=0&adjust=-1 -- Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) Middlebury Center, PA (visit our new location!) '71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Aug 20 15:34:54 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 17:34:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] heater hookup Message-ID: <005101c7e371$f4513200$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I need to hook up the wires on my heater. I think there are only two- (is this right?) I cut the terminals heads off them and I forgot which wire goes to the battery (I am still positive ground). I'm not much of a beter- but, I bet it doesn't make much of a difference! I also lost the control switch. But, I think I've got something to use as a replacement. It is a one-speed heater isin't it? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From DLylis at aol.com Mon Aug 20 15:48:55 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 17:48:55 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 upper inside door pull - what glue? Message-ID: I used an adhesive that I got at Lowes called Goop. It was held out as having superior adhesion and gap filling properties, so that's what I bought. I can attest to it's superior adhesion. I just hope I don't have to remove the suckers anytime soon. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Aug 20 15:45:33 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 17:45:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] heater hookup In-Reply-To: <005101c7e371$f4513200$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <005101c7e371$f4513200$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200708201745.33371.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 20 August 2007 05:34 pm, Paul Dorsey wrote: > I need to hook up the wires on my heater. I think there are only two- (is > this right?) I cut the terminals heads off them and I forgot which wire > goes to the battery (I am still positive ground). I'm not much of a > beter- but, I bet it doesn't make much of a difference! > I also lost the control switch. But, I think I've got something to use > as a replacement. It is a one-speed heater isin't it? > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3A Paul, The motor is wound so it is not ground specific. The original switch is a rheostat to allow you to run the heater in slow speed or slower! The motor and 4 bladed fan does not push that much air, maybe enough to heat one side of the car and when the heater doors closed demist the windshield. The 4 heater is much better for both applications. Bob From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Aug 20 16:02:50 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 18:02:50 EDT Subject: [TR] heater hookup Message-ID: In a message dated 8/20/2007 4:35:05 PM Central Daylight Time, dorpaul at negia.net writes: > I need to hook up the wires on my heater. I think there are only two- (is > this right?) I cut the terminals heads off them and I forgot which wire > goes > to the battery (I am still positive ground). I'm not much of a beter- but, > I > bet it doesn't make much of a difference! > I also lost the control switch. But, I think I've got something to use > as > a replacement. It is a one-speed heater isin't it? > Yes. And no. There are only two wires but the control is a rheostat so you can vary the speed by turnign the rheostat. It is a 1.5 ohm rheostat which is different than the panel light dimmer which is a 3 ohm model (at least the the one on my car is. YMMV) Dave From dorpaul at negia.net Mon Aug 20 16:29:38 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 18:29:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] heater hookup References: <005101c7e371$f4513200$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <200708201745.33371.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <006301c7e379$99fc3860$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Thanks Dave and Bob! The switch I have is one I got from my thrift store, but it works good. It's a headlight switch and has a terminal for headlights, taillights, dashlights and panel lights and ground. It pulls out in two-stages just like a regular headlight switch and has a 30 amp fuse. Maybe you've seen one similar. I could proably hook something more important to it, but since it was free and looks fine, I'll stay with it. I hooked up a connectivity meter to it (which I barely know how to interpret) and it shows full-connectivity when pulled out fully (between two terminals) but then, between a different terminal it reads where the meter's numbers 'keep jumpin' making me think it might replace the traditional rheostat. Until needed though, I'll just run the heater off/on with the first two terminals since this switch fits fine. (Proably this em-80's basic switch could replace half our 50's-60's console!) I see no reason to upgrade. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 ------------------------------------------------------------------- ORIGINAL MESSAGE: I need to hook up the wires on my heater. I think there are only two- (is this right?) I cut the terminals heads off them and I forgot which wire goes to the battery (I am still positive ground). I'm not much of a beter- but, I bet it doesn't make much of a difference! I also lost the control switch. But, I think I've got something to use as a replacement. It is a one-speed heater isin't it? ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ANSWERS: The motor is wound so it is not ground specific. The original switch is a rheostat to allow you to run the heater in slow speed or slower! The motor and 4 bladed fan does not push that much air, maybe enough to heat one side of the car and when the heater doors closed demist the windshield. The 4 heater is much better for both applications. Bob Yes. And no. There are only two wires but the control is a rheostat so you can vary the speed by turnign the rheostat. It is a 1.5 ohm rheostat which is different than the panel light dimmer which is a 3 ohm model (at least the the one on my car is. YMMV) Dave From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Aug 20 16:26:05 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 18:26:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 radio In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200708201826.05879.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Ok here is a question for all you electrical physics types. I hooked up my TR4 AM radio Saturday. It is an original AM + ground model with single speaker. The radio was recently repaired and works just fine. I hooked up the - wire to the same wire (green) that goes to the heater. I made a "Y" since both connections were very close and only hot when the ignition is on. After hooking everything up, I noticed that the volume was not what I expected. Thinking my garage was killing the signal, I started up the car, backed up and noticed when I reved the engine the volume went very loud... so loud I had to turn the volume down. Now when the car is at idle, the volume is very low but when I rev the engine (over 1000RPM) so the ammeter shows no discharge, the volume is just wonderful. Yesterday while crusing around, I was able to listen on 1/2 volume with the top down at 55 MPH. But come to a light and with engine at idle, much less volume. Now I do have an electric fuel pump but that is about it as far as extra load on the system. Is the drop in overall voltage causing this problem? Is there a fix other than adjusting the idle to over 1000 RPM? The battery is a new Exide Orbital that turns the engine over just great with an original Lucas starter. The generator keeps the battery charged. I never see the ignition warning light come on unless the engine is stopped. It looks to me that the charging circuit is working just fine as I see no differences in the ammeter action as compared to my 3. One other thing, the engine on the 4 seems to idle very well at about 650 RPM. I cannot get the 3 to idle this low, must be the newer components in the 4. Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Aug 20 16:30:46 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 18:30:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] heater hookup In-Reply-To: <006301c7e379$99fc3860$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <005101c7e371$f4513200$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <200708201745.33371.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <006301c7e379$99fc3860$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200708201830.46881.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 20 August 2007 06:29 pm, Paul Dorsey wrote: > Thanks Dave and Bob! > > The switch I have is one I got from my thrift store, but it works good. > It's a headlight switch and has a terminal for headlights, taillights, > dashlights and panel lights and ground. It pulls out in two-stages just > like a regular headlight switch and has a 30 amp fuse. > > Maybe you've seen one similar. I could proably hook something more > important to it, but since it was free and looks fine, I'll stay with it. > I hooked up a connectivity meter to it (which I barely know how to > interpret) and it shows full-connectivity when pulled out fully (between > two terminals) but then, between a different terminal it reads where the > meter's numbers 'keep jumpin' making me think it might replace the > traditional rheostat. Until needed though, I'll just run the heater off/on > with the first two terminals since this switch fits fine. (Proably this > em-80's basic switch could replace half our 50's-60's console!) > > I see no reason to upgrade. > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 Paul, The original rheostat switches do appear once in awhile on ebay, but if you go that route one of these days, make sure you get the switch with the knob. I believe the knobs are rarer than the switches. Bob From ZoboHerald at aol.com Mon Aug 20 17:13:55 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 19:13:55 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 radio Message-ID: In a message dated 8/20/2007 6:34:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: Now when the car is at idle, the volume is very low but when I rev the engine (over 1000RPM) so the ammeter shows no discharge, the volume is just wonderful. Yesterday while crusing around, I was able to listen on 1/2 volume with the top down at 55 MPH. But come to a light and with engine at idle, much less volume. ==AM== Interesting. Actually, that's just what you WANT the radio to do, right? boost the volume when other noises increase? There are some fancy car stereos that do that, presumably with some fancy electronics involved, and here you've managed to figure out/stumble across an extremely simple way to do it. ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From timipurdy at citlink.net Mon Aug 20 17:36:50 2007 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 16:36:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Spark Plugs Message-ID: <00d001c7e382$fc5e7190$02fea8c0@Lahontan> I need to change the spark plugs in my TR4 '64. Currently, I am using NGK's BPGHS and was wondering what others use. I onlu put these in two years ago, and giving me problems. All opinions are truly appreciated. Tim Purdy Susanville, CA From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Aug 20 17:58:03 2007 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 19:58:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan In-Reply-To: <31202485.1187636231144.JavaMail.root@web39> Message-ID: Yes - I am referring to the internal tray. Thanks all. I'll check with BFE. Regarding the skid plate - I heard that it won't work with the larger sump. Not sure why - Am I mistaken? Carl -----Original Message----- From: jerryvv at adelphia.net [mailto:jerryvv at adelphia.net] Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 2:57 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net Cc: 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan Carl, Are you refering to the internal windage tray that fits between the pan and the block or as others are indicating the external skid plate that provides some protection for the pan as it does sit about an inch lower than the frame? The windage tray is important and is used to prevent the oil from flowing up the inside of the block during cornering and perhaps leaving the pick up screen without any oil to pick up for the oil pump. It's important but you can run without it too. I did for several years until I could fabricate a correct windage tray. If on the other hand you are refering to the skid plate then I'd pay attention to the other folks who have written to you. JVV ---- Carl TR wrote: > I just realized that the aluminum oil pan on my TR3A does not have the > splash plate (or whatever it is called). > > What is its purpose (Or how does it protect against splash)? And is it > absolutely necessary? I have sourced one in Europe but before I spend > the $ (short supply right now) thought I would ask the collective wisdom > of the list.... > > Does anyone know of a source here in the states? > > Thanks > Carl > 61 TR3A TS81802LO > Tampa, Florida From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Aug 20 18:40:01 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 20:40:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Beer in Stereo ++ Very True Story References: <28542402.1187584637439.JavaMail.root@web15> <46C91DAB.9020503@zianet.com> Message-ID: <000a01c7e38b$cf56a5b0$5f257247@fred8kwiskhcfu> > If I remember my chemistry correctly, flame tests for copper ions are > also green. The difference in color should be noted--copper burns > bluish-green, while a pale sea-foam green color indicates lead. So, > someone being very careful to exclude lead from their copper distilling > equipment would be tarred unfairly by this flame test. As well, this > test would indicate little about the much greater danger in > moonshine--wood alcohol. All commonly available alcohols burn with a > light, barely perceptible blue flame, and it would take some discernment > to note the flame difference between methanol and ethanol. > > > Cheers. > > -- > Michael D. Porter > Roswell, NM ========================================================================================================= Have no idea bout Chemistry class, ye see he never made it even to grade school, how long have ya been running a still ??? Now I wonder if they taught you that the higher the alcohol content the stronger the drink and the drinker only drinks half as much, also the higher the content the bluer the flame, the bluer the flame the stronger the smell the better the taste, he never taught all of his hand-me-downs knowledge or even his cooking skills, just know he could tell by the color of the flame what was in the batch, I'm sure chemistry class taught many things but I doubt very seriously they have ever had a class on "Stills" or how to make a quality "SHINE", nice to know we have a monitor on the list, know how you feel now Joe. "FT" From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Mon Aug 20 19:57:04 2007 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 21:57:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fibreglass floors Message-ID: <002701c7e396$92cbd560$6700a8c0@andy> Call me heathen, but my TR3 is going to be far from a show car; alternator, Judson supercharger, gear reduction starter, Dan Masters' wiring harness and powerblock, etc. I've had a set of fiberglass floor panels lying around in the attic for several years and plan to put them in the car. Anyone have instructions anywhere, or any previous experience that would help? You can contact me off-line if you don't want to be vilified. Also, where does the lower end of the auxiliary oiler connect to the block? I'm hearing that the aux. oiler may not be such a good idea after all. Any thoughts? Thanks, Andy No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Aug 20 21:04:57 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 21:04:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas Beer in Stereo ++ Very True Story In-Reply-To: <000a01c7e38b$cf56a5b0$5f257247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <28542402.1187584637439.JavaMail.root@web15> <46C91DAB.9020503@zianet.com> <000a01c7e38b$cf56a5b0$5f257247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <46CA5659.7030509@tscusa.org> fred thomas wrote: > Have no idea bout Chemistry class, ye see he never made it even to grade > school, how long have ya been running a still ??? Now I wonder if they > taught you that the higher the alcohol content the stronger the drink and > the drinker only drinks half as much, also the higher the content the bluer > the flame, the bluer the flame the stronger the smell the better the taste, > he never taught all of his hand-me-downs knowledge or even his cooking > skills, just know he could tell by the color of the flame what was in the > batch, I'm sure chemistry class taught many things but I doubt very > seriously they have ever had a class on "Stills" or how to make a quality > "SHINE", nice to know we have a monitor on the list, know how you feel now > Joe. "FT" > I bet there is a song in there somewhere ... Just gotta find the tune ... -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From portermd at zianet.com Mon Aug 20 21:13:19 2007 From: portermd at zianet.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 21:13:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas Beer in Stereo ++ Very True Story In-Reply-To: <000a01c7e38b$cf56a5b0$5f257247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <28542402.1187584637439.JavaMail.root@web15> <46C91DAB.9020503@zianet.com> <000a01c7e38b$cf56a5b0$5f257247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <46CA584F.5030508@zianet.com> fred thomas wrote: > > Have no idea bout Chemistry class, ye see he never made it even to > grade school, how long have ya been running a still ??? Now I wonder > if they taught you that the higher the alcohol content the stronger > the drink and the drinker only drinks half as much, also the higher > the content the bluer the flame, the bluer the flame the stronger the > smell the better the taste, he never taught all of his hand-me-downs > knowledge or even his cooking skills, just know he could tell by the > color of the flame what was in the batch, I'm sure chemistry class > taught many things but I doubt very seriously they have ever had a > class on "Stills" or how to make a quality "SHINE", nice to know we > have a monitor on the list, know how you feel now Joe. "FT" > > Actually, Fred, you learn all sorts of things in chemistry--including chemistry lab--about distillation. And about how to make distillation work I even knew a guy in high school (the son of a local judge) who was able to build an electrically-powered still in his closet... and he learned it all... in chemistry class. :) Cheers. -- Michael D. Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Aug 20 21:18:17 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 21:18:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] what's wrong with this picture? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46CA5979.4020505@tscusa.org> Philip E. Barnes wrote: > http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/prsm.dll?eventorder?photo=040Y004C000091&start=0&album=0&adjust=-1 > Gosh!! is Maple Grove Speedway still open?!? Man, that was one of my high school day hangouts. There is nothing wrong with that photo ... Had that photo been taken 37 years ago, my 1973 Triumph Herald Sport 1200 Convertible (dual SU carbs and header with a muffler bypass) was in that exact spot in a grudge match against a stock 1500 MGA. Blazingly fast 1/4 mile it was for me, something just under 20 seconds. I wonder if Maple Grove has that one in their record books!?! I wonder if that MGA racer in the picture is the guy I won against (bracket race) and he had to build it bigger and better?? Same day, I raced against my friends SS396 400bhp Camaro in another bracket race. I had a full 10+ seconds lead before he red lighted, beat him too! Difference was my trap speed was like 63 mph, his was 130 mph. He never lived that one down. Buy the end of the day I had 4 burned exhaust valves and still had to drive home A few years later I was returned with my TR250 against my neighbor's TR6. Beat him by 0.2 seconds. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From pethier at comcast.net Mon Aug 20 21:31:59 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 03:31:59 +0000 Subject: [TR] what's wrong with this picture? Message-ID: <082120070331.9638.46CA5CAF0008D3DE000025A622007504389D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Philip E. Barnes" > http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/prsm.dll?eventorder?photo=040Y004C000091&sta > rt=0&album=0&adjust=-1 What's wrong with this picture? It's too small! -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From skip47 at powernet.net Mon Aug 20 21:55:03 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 20:55:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] what's wrong with this picture? References: Message-ID: <004401c7e3a7$0f026fd0$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Somebody HAS to say it so I will. He put a Triumph engine in it, maybe for the low end torque of a 4 or 6, or maybe the power of an 8.... Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 65 TR4A 70 TVR (230hp from 1700cc's) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Philip E. Barnes" Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 8:00 AM Subject: [TR] what's wrong with this picture? > http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/prsm.dll?eventorder?photo=040Y004C000091&start=0&album=0&adjust=-1 From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Aug 20 22:06:29 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 00:06:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] S2 instead of S1 In-Reply-To: <038401c7e35b$7ed64850$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: <003201c7e354$6d8b6b40$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <46CA2C85.30980.349F9CC@localhost> On 20 Aug 2007 at 11:54, Randall wrote: > On a dark night, _any_ light shining in your face makes it harder > to see the road... As dim as the original panels lights are, > turning them off still helps when it's really dark (no moon). It was a dark and stormy night. Suddenly a shot rang out. The maid screamed. Meanwhile on a small farm in Kansas... Uh, sorry, wrong story. (Author credit goes to Snoopy.) I'm always astounded and amazed by people who drive at night with their dashboard lights BURNING SO BRIGHTLY THAT I CAN READ THEIR SPEEDOMETER FROM THE ADJACENT LANE. The value of dimmed dashboard lights seems to have fallen into the same passage to oblivion as knowledge of right-of-way laws. But then, what do I know? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007 7:27 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 20 22:30:40 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 21:30:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fibreglass floors Message-ID: <19246659.1187670640260.JavaMail.root@web38> > Also, where does the lower end of the auxiliary oiler connect to the block? As I recall, mine went to the rearmost blanking bolt along the oil gallery (that bulge that runs along the LH side of the block at about the level of the oil filter head. > I'm hearing that the aux. oiler may not be such a good idea after all. Any > thoughts? I agree, not such a good idea, IMO. As long as you keep the passage through the rocker shaft open, the valves & rockers will get enough oil but not too much. The external feed puts way too much oil on top of the head, which results in excessive oil burning unless you also add valve stem seals, which in turn rob the stems of the oil they need for long life. After a leaking seal caused a broken piston, I retired the oil feed. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 20 23:17:43 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 22:17:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Spark Plugs Message-ID: <25123590.1187673463636.JavaMail.root@web38> ---- "Tim I. Purdy" wrote: > I need to change the spark plugs in my TR4 '64. Currently, I am using NGK's > BPGHS and was wondering what others use. I onlu put these in two years ago, > and giving me problems. All opinions are truly appreciated. I've been running Bosch WR7BP ever since Ken Gillanders at BFE recommended them. Can't say I've noticed the power increase that he claimed they measured, but they seem to work well for me. Been changing them maybe every 20k miles, just because, but they don't look like they need it. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 20 23:31:05 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 22:31:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 radio Message-ID: <22598904.1187674265383.JavaMail.root@web38> > Is the drop in overall voltage causing this problem? Seems fairly clear the (normal) drop in voltage is causing the loss of sound. But it shouldn't do that. > Is there a fix other than adjusting the idle to over 1000 RPM? I would be looking for any reason the radio is not getting full battery voltage, like maybe it's not well grounded or has a bad connection somewhere. If possible, measure voltage both at the battery and right at the radio, with the engine not running. The radio should work fine down to at least 10 volts (usually even lower than that) with only a very minor drop in volume. If it's losing a lot of volume at 12 volts (which is about the minimum you should see), then the radio itself has a problem. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 21 05:29:04 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 07:29:04 EDT Subject: [TR] heater hookup Message-ID: In a message dated 8/20/2007 5:30:00 PM Central Daylight Time, dorpaul at negia.net writes: > The switch I have is one I got from my thrift store, but it works good. > It's a headlight switch and has a terminal for headlights, taillights, > dashlights and panel lights and ground. It pulls out in two-stages just > like a regular headlight switch and has a 30 amp fuse. > Considering how meager the fan is an ON-OFF switch will be fine. Dave From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Aug 21 06:22:23 2007 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 08:22:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Tried emailing BFE but got a 'bad address' from the one listed on the site. Anyone have an updated email address? Otherwise, I'll have to spend the dime and call. I just noticed that if you now click on 'reply' the response only goes to the sender of the previous email. It does not get sent to the list... Carl -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+cfmtr3a=verizon.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+cfmtr3a=verizon.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 7:58 PM To: 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan Yes - I am referring to the internal tray. Thanks all. I'll check with BFE. Regarding the skid plate - I heard that it won't work with the larger sump. Not sure why - Am I mistaken? Carl -----Original Message----- From: jerryvv at adelphia.net [mailto:jerryvv at adelphia.net] Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 2:57 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net Cc: 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan Carl, Are you refering to the internal windage tray that fits between the pan and the block or as others are indicating the external skid plate that provides some protection for the pan as it does sit about an inch lower than the frame? The windage tray is important and is used to prevent the oil from flowing up the inside of the block during cornering and perhaps leaving the pick up screen without any oil to pick up for the oil pump. It's important but you can run without it too. I did for several years until I could fabricate a correct windage tray. If on the other hand you are refering to the skid plate then I'd pay attention to the other folks who have written to you. JVV ---- Carl TR wrote: > I just realized that the aluminum oil pan on my TR3A does not have the > splash plate (or whatever it is called). > > What is its purpose (Or how does it protect against splash)? And is it > absolutely necessary? I have sourced one in Europe but before I spend > the $ (short supply right now) thought I would ask the collective wisdom > of the list.... > > Does anyone know of a source here in the states? > > Thanks > Carl > 61 TR3A TS81802LO > Tampa, Florida _______________________________________________ cfmtr3a at verizon.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Aug 21 08:03:01 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 14:03:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan In-Reply-To: <20070820140502.348C0187A2A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I actually built a skid plate for my TR3A last winter. I used .040 aluminum and it covers from the radiator to behind the pan. It is attached to the frame rails with metal screws. However, it doesn't protect the pan since the pan protrudes through it an inch or so. I did it to confine air flow in the engine compartment. It worked like a charm. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Learn.Laugh.Share. Reallivemoms is right place! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Aug 21 08:17:44 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 14:17:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pans...No LBC Content In-Reply-To: <039501c7e367$7945e970$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: >Unless of course, as happened to me, there is a chunk of aluminum broken >out >of the inside edge. The gorilla apparently cross-threaded the plug, then >put an impact wrench on it. Since it is aluminum you can take the pan off and have the damaged area welded and rethreaded. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Now you can see troublebefore he arrives http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_protection_0507 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Aug 21 08:40:42 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 10:40:42 EDT Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pans...No LBC Content Message-ID: _www.coolcatcorp.com/_ (http://www.coolcatcorp.com/) has a very nice aircraft type drain plug. Not sure what size fits the TR, but owner Mike Frank can help. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Aug 21 08:51:17 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 14:51:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] Raptor. Message-ID: Nice video and the Raptor is a great fighter/bomber. However, I seem to remember video of the Russian Mig 29 doing even better aerobatics at the Paris air show almost a decade ago. If I remember correctly it uses a vector force nozzle on it's engine to produce lateral movement in a vertical stall. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ A new home for Mom, no cleanup required. All starts here. http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Aug 21 08:55:24 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 08:55:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] what's wrong with this picture? 1963 herald In-Reply-To: <46CA5979.4020505@tscusa.org> References: <46CA5979.4020505@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <46CAFCDC.1070505@tscusa.org> Glenn A. Merrell wrote: > Philip E. Barnes wrote: > >> http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/prsm.dll?eventorder?photo=040Y004C000091&start=0&album=0&adjust=-1 >> >> > Gosh!! is Maple Grove Speedway still open?!? Man, that was one of my > high school day hangouts. > There is nothing wrong with that photo ... > Had that photo been taken 37 years ago, my 1973 Triumph Herald Sport > 1200 Convertible Before I get hammered, that was a 1963 Herald .... -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From spitlist at cox.net Tue Aug 21 09:45:00 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 08:45:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Raptor. References: Message-ID: <002b01c7e40a$3c3bb3e0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Tom, Was that right before that Russian plane crashed? Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 7:51 AM Subject: [TR] Raptor. > Nice video and the Raptor is a great fighter/bomber. However, I seem to > remember video of the Russian Mig 29 doing even better aerobatics at the > Paris air show almost a decade ago. If I remember correctly it uses a > vector force nozzle on it's engine to produce lateral movement in a vertical > stall. > > > > Best regards, > Tom > > _________________________________________________________________ > A new home for Mom, no cleanup required. All starts here. > http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us > _______________________________________________ > spitlist at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From Bob.Westerdale at ametek.com Tue Aug 21 10:05:33 2007 From: Bob.Westerdale at ametek.com (Bob Westerdale) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 12:05:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gear oil dispenser In-Reply-To: <007e01c7df7b$cc9a8a80$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Message-ID: Hi- Can anyone recommend a hand pump for filling the trans with gear oil from under the car? Online source? For years I've been messing around with tubing and squeezing the containers, etc, and have come to dread the stink of 90 W. ( especially as a cologne) Any ideas? Thanks Bob Westerdale 59 3A TS36967 From Ssandberg at MEDIATECH-INC.COM Tue Aug 21 10:16:44 2007 From: Ssandberg at MEDIATECH-INC.COM (Stephen Sandberg) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 12:16:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gear oil dispenser Message-ID: there are a bunch of pumps out there advance auto has one that fits in various size bottles, but not the small redline ones :(, comes with a neat nozzle that wedges into the fill hole so you can use both hands to work the pump and or hold the bottle of oil I bought one at the marine store for filling outboard motor gear boxes, and saved the nice wide mouth bottle it came with cost is five to 10 bucks they last for about three to five transmission fills before a seal goes bad From spitlist at cox.net Tue Aug 21 10:33:16 2007 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 09:33:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gear oil dispenser References: Message-ID: <004301c7e410$fa284020$2d02a8c0@Belkin> A while back, I bought a gallon jug of Valvoline gear oil and it had a plastic hand pump included with it. I was able to attach a piece of aquarium hose to the end so that I could pump directly into the gearbox opening. The clear hose lets you see the liquif flowing through it and the size was ideally suited for inserting into the opening in the gearbox. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Westerdale" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 9:05 AM Subject: [TR] Gear oil dispenser > Hi- > Can anyone recommend a hand pump for filling the trans with gear oil from > under the car? Online source? > For years I've been messing around with tubing and squeezing the > containers, etc, and have come to dread the > stink of 90 W. ( especially as a cologne) > > Any ideas? > > Thanks > Bob Westerdale > 59 3A TS36967 > _______________________________________________ > spitlist at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com Tue Aug 21 11:46:51 2007 From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 12:46:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] aux rocker oil feed Message-ID: I agree with Randall. I had the external rocker oil feed on my TR6 and after several years of use, I was getting puffs of oil from the exhaust upon start-up and the engine began to use oil . I suspected the external oiler since the rest of my engine - and its compression - were OK. I removed the external oiler and the puffs of smoke and oil consumption disappeared - to my great relief. My conclusion: An external rocker oil feed could well create more problems than it's supposed to solve. Cheers, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg On Mon, 20 Aug 2007, tr3driver at ca.rr.com wrote: > I'm hearing that the aux. oiler may not be such a good idea after all. Any > thoughts? And then Randall replied: I agree, not such a good idea, IMO. As long as you keep the passage through the rocker shaft open, the valves & rockers will get enough oil but not too much. The external feed puts way too much oil on top of the head, which results in excessive oil burning unless you also add valve stem seals, which in turn rob the stems of the oil they need for long life. From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Aug 21 11:49:40 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 13:49:40 EDT Subject: [TR] aux rocker oil feed Message-ID: I used an external oiler (home made) on my TR3 after I discovered the rear cam bearing was in upside down blocking all oil flow to the head, I didn't want to pull the engine again. It used lots of oil! Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 21 12:09:48 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 11:09:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] aux rocker oil feed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <044501c7e41e$784f1930$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I used an external oiler (home made) on my TR3 after I > discovered the rear > cam bearing was in upside down blocking all oil flow to the > head, I didn't want > to pull the engine again. FWIW, that's the same reason I tried the external feed. Still didn't want to pull the engine even after the oil-induced knock broke a piston, so I took a long drill bit, coated it with grease and drilled down through the cam insert ! Crazy idea, definitely NOT recommended ... but it worked for me ! That short block is still in the car, and was running great when it was wrecked. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 21 12:29:25 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 11:29:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gear oil dispenser In-Reply-To: References: <007e01c7df7b$cc9a8a80$0100a8c0@ZEUS> Message-ID: <045201c7e421$339bf120$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Can anyone recommend a hand pump for filling the trans with > gear oil from > under the car? Online source? I didn't find an on-line source, but my FLAPS sells them. The one I use was sold under the Sta-Lube name and has lasted me for many years now, long enough that I've had to replace the hoses several times. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 21 12:45:02 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 11:45:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <045c01c7e423$61fa7260$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Tried emailing BFE but got a 'bad address' from the one listed on the > site. Anyone have an updated email address? That's an amusing Oops! ... the text shown on the website is correct, bfeken at copper.net, but if you click on the link, it gives the wrong address bfeken at copper.COM . You might mention that to Ken. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From lherault at bu.edu Tue Aug 21 12:45:09 2007 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 14:45:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] aux oil feed Message-ID: <007d01c7e423$6674fe00$0cd4299b@ad.bu.edu> Has anyone tried putting a restrictor in the external feed, maybe by closing off most of the end of the hose? That way some oil would get up there but maybe not as much/too much. I have one and yes, you get the puffs of smoke. I'd like to keep it for cheap insurance but maybe trim its output. Ron L From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Aug 21 13:03:23 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 15:03:23 EDT Subject: [TR] aux oil feed Message-ID: In a message dated 8/21/2007 11:46:51 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, lherault at bu.edu writes: Has anyone tried putting a restrictor in the external feed, maybe by closing off most of the end of the hose? That way some oil would get up there but maybe not as much/too much. I have one and yes, you get the puffs of smoke. I'd like to keep it for cheap insurance but maybe trim its output. Ron L Insurance against WHAT? I am convinced this is another one of those aftermarket gizmos that provide revenue for the purveyors of parts for our cars. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Aug 21 13:20:22 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 15:20:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] aux oil feed References: Message-ID: <008601c7e428$5212ff70$d31d7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> ----- Original Message ----- > > > > Insurance against WHAT? > I am convinced this is another one of those aftermarket gizmos that > provide > revenue for the purveyors of parts for our cars. > Mike Moore ======================================================================================================== And I think you are 100% correct, the original factory set-up supply's more than enough oil, if not, how come it starts smoking once you hook-up the line !! "FT" From fishplate at charter.net Tue Aug 21 13:31:56 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 12:31:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gear oil dispenser Message-ID: <53450147.1187724716698.JavaMail.root@fepweb01> ---- Bob Westerdale wrote: > Hi- > Can anyone recommend a hand pump for filling the trans with gear oil from > under the car? Online source? This might be worth a look: They have stores in many major cities, or order online. They aren't the fastest shipping company in the world, but shipping isn't expensive. Jeff Scarbrough Spitfires and a TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 21 14:08:52 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 13:08:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] aux oil feed In-Reply-To: <007d01c7e423$6674fe00$0cd4299b@ad.bu.edu> References: <007d01c7e423$6674fe00$0cd4299b@ad.bu.edu> Message-ID: <046c01c7e42f$183c4f70$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Has anyone tried putting a restrictor in the external feed, > maybe by closing > off most of the end of the hose? I did, but couldn't get the orifice small enough. Even a 1/32" hole passes an amazing amount of oil when it's hot & 70 psi. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 21 15:13:11 2007 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 14:13:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Shipping gearbox and or O/D from UK to US Message-ID: <430931.67860.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Has anyone shipped an overdrive gearbox from the UK to the US? I've located an A type 'box in the UK and would like to have it rebuilt and shipped to the US but expect it might to cost prohibitive. If too expensive to ship teh whole assesmbly I'll have only the OD rebuilt and ship that. Has anyone out there shipped either across the Atlantic? (Going roughly from Windsor to Chicago/Milwaukee). Thanks for any ideas and rough estimates of fees. Best wishes Steve ____________________________________________________________________________________ Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 21 15:14:53 2007 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 14:14:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] aux oil feed In-Reply-To: <046c01c7e42f$183c4f70$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <156846.11488.qm@web51308.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Racetorations in the UK near Cambridge machines a restrictor for the tube that works rather well... Steve --- Randall wrote: > > Has anyone tried putting a restrictor in the > external feed, > > maybe by closing > > off most of the end of the hose? > > I did, but couldn't get the orifice small enough. > Even a 1/32" hole passes > an amazing amount of oil when it's hot & 70 psi. > > Randall > > dogzbody1 at yahoo.com> From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 21 16:14:41 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 15:14:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Shipping gearbox and or O/D from UK to US In-Reply-To: <430931.67860.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <430931.67860.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <048301c7e440$ad956f00$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Has anyone shipped an overdrive gearbox from the UK to > the US? I've located an A type 'box in the UK and > would like to have it rebuilt and shipped to the US > but expect it might to cost prohibitive. I did in 2002. UPS to a business address in soCA was 210 GBP, a little over $400 at today's exchange rate. Seller claimed UPS was cheapest. Watch out for added customs brokerage fees. I didn't have to pay any extra fees for this shipment, but I've had other international shipments where the broker that UPS uses sent me a separate bill. There was no duty due on the shipment, this was purely a fee to a customs broker. I try not to use UPS for that reason. Also remember that you'll need a crate that is very close to the size of the gearbox. Just a few inches longer would make it over UPS's limit. > If too > expensive to ship teh whole assesmbly I'll have only > the OD rebuilt and ship that. If this is for a TR, then I would suggest only shipping the OD. In fact, I'd suggest having the core shipped here and having it rebuilt on this side of the pond. But don't forget the other little parts needed for the conversion, like adapter plate and mainshaft. Or that there are different mainshafts, depending on which gearset you have. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Aug 21 16:16:46 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 23:16:46 +0100 Subject: [TR] aux rocker oil feed References: Message-ID: <002601c7e440$f69099a0$0201a8c0@Bevan> I agree with entirely with Randall on this (fairly) regular topic. If you look at the three main engines Standard-Triumph made in the 1940's to 1980's, all of them came about at a time when multi-grade oil was not nearly as sophisticated as today. Moreover, the engines were *designed* to have valve gear lubed by a trickle - not a force feed. IMHO, the people who supply external feedpipes are cashing in on the *relative* ignorance of modern users who feel a force feed is better, and in this case it's not, for normal use. Everyone can enjoy trouble-free lubrication by ensuring the rocker shaft drillings and those on the rockers themselves are free of hardened sludge. With modern oils, even mineral variants, that are changed every 3000 miles, the sludge build-up should be minimal. If you doubt what I'm saying, just do the exercise of thoroughly cleaning the rockers, shafts and their pedestals, re-assemble, check valve clearance and then let the engine run for about a minute at 2000 rpm without a valve cover! Then spend the next hour cleaning the oil splashes off the engine bay. Let us also question the logic of force-feed to our old engines. If a modern two-stroke engine is happy running a fuel/oil mix of say 50:1 and doesn't run its bearings with such a nominal amount of oil dissolved in the fuel, why should we want to force feed oil to a valve mechanism that isn't suffering anything like the same pressures and stress as two stroke main bearings? If Ted Grinham (designer of the wet liner 4) and David Eley (designer of later 4 and 6 cyl engines) at Standard-Triumph had felt an external feed was needed, I'm sure they would have specified it. Jonmac From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Aug 21 17:40:54 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 19:40:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shipping gearbox and or O/D from UK to US In-Reply-To: <430931.67860.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001c7e44c$ba32b040$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> I shipped an entire unit 3 years ago and it was around $400. I have an overdrive unit there at the moment but with the exchange rate where it is, it was going to cost >$500. The restoration shop (Laycock "A"-type OD on a TR6 gearbox with a strengthened layshaft for a fastroad TR3) agreed to ship it with a chassis bound for a customer in New York. It'll only cost me the additional weight - less than $100.00 Can you find someone shipping a car across and pay the difference ? Otherwise ship the OD and build the gearbox here. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Smith Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 5:13 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Shipping gearbox and or O/D from UK to US Has anyone shipped an overdrive gearbox from the UK to the US? I've located an A type 'box in the UK and would like to have it rebuilt and shipped to the US but expect it might to cost prohibitive. If too expensive to ship teh whole assesmbly I'll have only the OD rebuilt and ship that. Has anyone out there shipped either across the Atlantic? (Going roughly from Windsor to Chicago/Milwaukee). Thanks for any ideas and rough estimates of fees. Best wishes Steve ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From vinttr4 at geneseo.net Tue Aug 21 19:01:18 2007 From: vinttr4 at geneseo.net (Jack W. Drews) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 20:01:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] aux oil feed In-Reply-To: <046c01c7e42f$183c4f70$6a5636cc@navcom.com> References: <007d01c7e423$6674fe00$0cd4299b@ad.bu.edu> <046c01c7e42f$183c4f70$6a5636cc@navcom.com> Message-ID: <200708220106.l7M16dUl120312@ns3.geneseo.net> I have never used an external feed line and I really don't have a comment on it pro or con. However, as a TR4 racer, I know that running at high speeds with conventional rocker stands, I get too much oil in the valve cover. i drill and tap the oil feed hole in the back rocker stand and then drill a smaller hole in it. Otherwise I get a huge flood up there, admittedly with 50 wt oil running 180 - 200 oil temps. At 03:08 PM 8/21/2007, Randall wrote: > > Has anyone tried putting a restrictor in the external feed, > > maybe by closing > > off most of the end of the hose? > >I did, but couldn't get the orifice small enough. Even a 1/32" hole passes >an amazing amount of oil when it's hot & 70 psi. > >Randall > > >CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with >it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., >or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the >individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained >in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written >consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the >person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the >intended recipient, be advised that you have received this >electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, >forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly >prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, >please immediately notify the sender by return mail. >_______________________________________________ >vinttr4 at geneseo.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs uncle jack ------------------------------------------------ No Virus Found In This Message Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net From ArthurK101 at aol.com Tue Aug 21 13:18:06 2007 From: ArthurK101 at aol.com (ArthurK101 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 15:18:06 EDT Subject: [TR] Fred Thomas Message-ID: Fred, can you please contact me off list. Thanks. Art Kelly ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 20 13:43:27 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 12:43:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] More questions? In-Reply-To: <00d201c7e299$0a3752e0$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00d201c7e299$0a3752e0$7cbb0642@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <038a01c7e362$64122780$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > 1. Is there ever a problem created by dissassembling the oil > pressure line on > a TR3? I am going to respectfully disagree with Bob, and say that it's not necessary (IMO) to anneal those copper washers. I've reused mine many times without annealing, and they still seal just fine. His points about putting them in the right way (along with the special nut on top) are good, though. Note that there is supposed to be a leather sealing washer between the end of the line and the gauge. > 2. Will dripping a drop of hot solder onto a hot bullet > connector make it into > a good connector? Or will solder not really stick to these > 'galvinized' pieces. As already stated, just dripping solder onto something is not going to help. However, making a good solder joint will definitely help. Making a good solder joint is a skill to be learned. Not as difficult (IMO) as welding, but it does take some practice and patience to make a good solder joint. No room here for a full course, but basically you need both surfaces scrupulously clean, then heated to the melting point of solder (or just slightly above), a little bit of non-acid flux applied (or better use "rosin-core" solder) and then the solder applied. Properly done, the solder bonds to the surfaces and flows over them. Then the joint must be held totally still while the solder cools and solidifies. Proper choice of solder is important too, don't try to use plumbing or body solder. I mostly use a Weller "soldering gun", which IMO is much easier to use than those cheap non-regulated electric soldering irons. A regulated soldering iron would be better yet, but they are kind of expensive and I don't like having to wait for them to warm up (although the good ones do get hot pretty quick). Google for "how to solder wires", you'll get lots of hits with detailed instructions. Here's two : http://www.ehow.com/how_376_solder-wires.html http://www.mediacollege.com/misc/solder/ > 3. Where can I tie-into the console for 'non-switched device' > such as an electric fan? If you are talking about an electric radiator fan, they draw quite a bit of current. However, I feel you will want it on the load side of the ammeter, so you can see if the fan is drawing current from the battery or not. And, if you keep the stock generator, also on the load side of the control box so it can attempt to compensate for the extra load. The horn fuse is on the battery side of the ammeter, so I would not suggest using it. On my TR3A, I created a new tie point in the brown/blue wire under the hood (where it joined with the wire to my high-output alternator), then used a separate fusible link in the wire to the electric fan. Although not what I used, this is a good way to make a tie point : http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From DLylis at aol.com Tue Aug 21 20:21:31 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 22:21:31 EDT Subject: [TR] More questions? Message-ID: I am not finding a brown/blue wire. Is this in the main harness that contains the horn/lights/generator, etc. along the right inside fender? From what I have found so far my harness, although replaced, has correct color code. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From DLylis at aol.com Tue Aug 21 20:33:38 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 22:33:38 EDT Subject: [TR] More questions? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/21/2007 9:22:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: I am not finding a brown/blue wire. Never mind. I found what you are talking about. Thanks David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From dkspence at telus.net Tue Aug 21 23:20:15 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 23:20:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] aux oil feed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mine (TR6) is self made from a metal brake line (the fitting is correct and screwed right in)and has a tap installed to control oil flow. It's been there for the fifteen years I've owned the car. Works well. I added a T fitting to accommodate the warning light sensor. On Aug 21, 2007, at 4:15 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > From: "Ron L" > Date: August 21, 2007 12:45:09 PM MDT (CA) > To: > Subject: [TR] aux oil feed > > > Has anyone tried putting a restrictor in the external feed, maybe > by closing > off most of the end of the hose? That way some oil would get up > there but > maybe not as much/too much. I have one and yes, you get the > puffs of > smoke. I'd like to keep it for cheap insurance but maybe trim its > output. > > Ron L From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Aug 21 20:33:48 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 19:33:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] More questions? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Look at the control box/voltage regulator. If you need a wiring diagram, there is one here... http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 7:21 PM Subject: Re: [TR] More questions? >I am not finding a brown/blue wire. Is this in the main harness that > contains the horn/lights/generator, etc. along the right inside fender? > From what > I have found so far my harness, although replaced, has correct color > code. From DLylis at aol.com Wed Aug 22 04:35:42 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 06:35:42 EDT Subject: [TR] More questions? Message-ID: Thanks. I misunderstood where Randall said. I found it moments after posting. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From DLylis at aol.com Wed Aug 22 04:55:49 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 06:55:49 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Windscreeen stanchions Message-ID: When I removed my windscreen the machine screws were seized in the nuts. I drilled the heads off, however on the passenger side the nuts just turned inside the cowl. I went under the dash and found two very cleanly cut circles in the sheet metal right at the fasteners inside the cowl. These were like taking the top off a tuna can but leaving a small part still connected so the cut circle can flip up. The clean nature of these cuts tells me that there is no way this was done with the cowl on the car. The drivers side has no such cuts, (that I can find) and the nuts appear to be welded to the sheet metal as there is no play like with a caged nut. This has no real consequence, just a curiosity. ?? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Aug 22 05:29:51 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 11:29:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] Gear oil dispenser In-Reply-To: Message-ID: You local parts store should have a brand of 90W in a container with a hand pump and tube. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ See what youre getting intobefore you go there http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507 From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 22 09:53:05 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 09:53:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] aux oil feed In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070822155301.6CA2E1879C9@autox.team.net> Good thought, I remember installing a pre-made by-pass kit for my old '55 Chevy six cylinder after the internal passages became blocked and I seem to remember there was a small tap, similar to what you see on a water line for an icemaker. B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dkspence at telus.net Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 11:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: lherault at bu.edu Subject: Re: [TR] aux oil feed Mine (TR6) is self made from a metal brake line (the fitting is correct and screwed right in)and has a tap installed to control oil flow. It's been there for the fifteen years I've owned the car. Works well. I added a T fitting to accommodate the warning light sensor. On Aug 21, 2007, at 4:15 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > From: "Ron L" > Date: August 21, 2007 12:45:09 PM MDT (CA) > To: > Subject: [TR] aux oil feed > > > Has anyone tried putting a restrictor in the external feed, maybe by > closing off most of the end of the hose? That way some oil would get > up there but > maybe not as much/too much. I have one and yes, you get the > puffs of > smoke. I'd like to keep it for cheap insurance but maybe trim its > output. > > Ron L _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.1/965 - Release Date: 8/21/2007 4:02 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.2/966 - Release Date: 8/22/2007 9:05 AM From triumphstag at gmail.com Wed Aug 22 14:11:52 2007 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 13:11:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] to use gasket sealer or not Message-ID: I was at a tune and tech session some years back where the garage owner rebuilt a gearbox. Whereever a gasket went, the guy also applied some gasket goo on each surface to be joined. What's the general consensus of the list with regard to using or not using gasket sealer/goo? I didn't apply any goo to my diff casing when I replaced the gasket, but it leaked and still does. I need to replace my oil sump gasket on my Stag and am hedging towards using some. Sujit From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue Aug 21 13:04:11 2007 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 15:04:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hand Pump In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi- Can anyone recommend a hand pump for filling the trans with gear oil from under the car? Online source? For years I've been messing around with tubing and squeezing the containers, etc, and have come to dread the stink of 90 W. ( especially as a cologne) Thanks Bob Westerdale 59 3A TS36967 Bob, On the recommendation of this list's archive, I picked up a small pump from Pep Boys. I found it in the Hypoid section, and it was under $10. It screws onto the 90W bottle and a plunger forces the oil along its tube to where you need it to go - only a few CCs at a time, but you get there eventually. I seem to recall it is intended to deliver oil in some awkward part of an outboard motor, but works just fine for the Tranny or Diff (Hey, if you are under there, and filthy, you may as well do both...... Brian From eoot at citlink.net Wed Aug 22 14:56:06 2007 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 16:56:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hand Pump References: Message-ID: <00ad01c7e4fe$dc4bcdd0$5d0aa8c0@MyComputski> I got one at NAPA...made for Sta-Lube products. Works great and only about 8 bucks ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 3:04 PM Subject: [TR] Hand Pump > Hi- > Can anyone recommend a hand pump for filling the trans with gear oil from > under the car? Online source? For years I've been messing around with > tubing and squeezing the > containers, etc, and have come to dread the stink of 90 W. ( especially as > a cologne) > > Thanks > Bob Westerdale > 59 3A TS36967 > > Bob, > On the recommendation of this list's archive, I picked up a small pump > from Pep Boys. I found it in the Hypoid section, and it was under $10. It > screws onto the 90W bottle and a plunger forces the oil along its tube to > where you need it to go - only a few CCs at a time, but you get there > eventually. > > I seem to recall it is intended to deliver oil in some awkward part of an > outboard motor, but works just fine for the Tranny or Diff (Hey, if you > are under there, and filthy, you may as well do both...... > > Brian > _______________________________________________ > eoot at citlink.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From cartr4a at ameritech.net Wed Aug 22 15:04:01 2007 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 14:04:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Link Request Message-ID: <811176.21259.qm@web80215.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List, I'm looking to expand the technical help links on my web site. If you know of a helpful "how to" artical, please send it to me off list. Any topic, from engine rebuild, electrical, hydraulics to interior work. Thanks, Jim '68 GT6 http://www.geocities.com/britishiron2000 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 22 15:36:22 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 14:36:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] to use gasket sealer or not In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003201c7e504$7c9778c0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > What's the general consensus of the list with regard to using > or not using > gasket sealer/goo? I didn't apply any goo to my diff casing > when I replaced > the gasket, but it leaked and still does. I generally use Hylomar on gaskets, unless it's a high temperature application like an exhaust manifold. Seals very well, is easy to apply, and easy to clean up when the joint has to be disturbed the next time. Frequently it even leaves the gasket in reusable condition. Unless you don't have a gasket, I would suggest staying away from the various gasket replacement products, especially silicone RTV, for places like gearboxes and engines. It's very easy to have some RTV squeeze out inside, where it may later break off into long strings and block something. Other products, like Permatex #3, don't have that problem, but are still a royal PITA to clean up the next time the joint must be disturbed. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to NavCom Technology, Inc., or one of its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed, shall be maintained in confidence and not disclosed to third parties without the written consent of the sender. If you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the electronic mail to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this electronic mail in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this electronic mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return mail. From mrv8q at aim.com Wed Aug 22 16:48:47 2007 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 18:48:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Intake Manifold Brass Adaptor Message-ID: <8C9B325BC54F82E-ED0-8B7D@WEBMAIL-DF18.sysops.aol.com> Hello, listers, what are you using to replace the Brass Adaptor on the TR6 intake manifold? Plate BH of #1 Spare parts catalog, BH29, #UKC2313... This is the adaptor from the EGR pipe, into the manifold; Coarse thread on the manifold side, fine thread on the pipe side... Not available from the usual suspects. Also, concerning the manifold itself, is there a common cure for the deteriorating water pipe thru the manifold? Two machine shops I took it to shook their heads; one suggested clamping a copper pipe underneath.... don't know if that will foul the linkage. Any and all suggestions welcome! Best, Kevin Browne ________________________________________________________________________ Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- Unlimited storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. From acekraut11 at aol.com Wed Aug 22 16:52:19 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 18:52:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] to use gasket sealer or not In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8C9B3263AC8A571-514-8F29@WEBMAIL-DC17.sysops.aol.com> Sujit, When I bought my car I had a significant leak in the gearbox, where the tail housing mates to the main case.? I didnt want to have to take the entire gearbox out just to replace this seal so I decided to try a product called "The Right Stuff".? It is a gasket sealer and I loosened the tail housing up and I could get it to slide backwards about a quarter to half an inch, just enough so I could get a bead of sealant in.? I tightened everything back up and I had no leaks.? I did not use a gasket and although I cleaned the surfaces as best I could considering my access to the gearbox when it was still in the car I am sure I didnt do the best job possible. Later on I added an OD to the gearbox.? When the gearbox was taken apart the "Right Stuff" had done a great job sealing everywhere it was applied.? When I added the OD I used the same product everywhere two surfaces mated.? Soon I will be installing the gearbox but the bench test of the OD added gearbox did not have any leaks. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: sujit roy To: Triumph List Sent: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 4:11 pm Subject: [TR] to use gasket sealer or not I was at a tune and tech session some years back where the garage owner rebuilt a gearbox. Whereever a gasket went, the guy also applied some gasket goo on each surface to be joined. What's the general consensus of the list with regard to using or not using gasket sealer/goo? I didn't apply any goo to my diff casing when I replaced the gasket, but it leaked and still does. I need to replace my oil sump gasket on my Stag and am hedging towards using some. Sujit ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. From tom.wags at gmail.com Wed Aug 22 19:39:24 2007 From: tom.wags at gmail.com (Tom Wagner) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 20:39:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trailing Arm Question Message-ID: <4e74fbc30708221839q4cbe8c39y3b11f3ede685d56@mail.gmail.com> To All: On my 72 TR 6, the trailing arm assembly has 6 studs coming out the side of it where the axle attaches. Out of the 6 studs, I have 3 of them that are stripped, as it appears to be a cast aluminum, or very soft metal. Does anyone have any ideas about either how to re-tap them or some other method to hold the axle in place??? Thanks in advance for the help. -- Tom Wagner 72 TR 6 67 MGB Gravette, AR 72736 From DLylis at aol.com Wed Aug 22 19:51:02 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 21:51:02 EDT Subject: [TR] Trailing Arm Question Message-ID: Helicoils. Go to your auto parts supplier. When making this repair pay attention and do it properly. This is a weak point in the TR6 rear suspension and if you have missed the recent posts on Triumphs sites about this failure you might want to look it up. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From DLylis at aol.com Thu Aug 23 04:47:31 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 06:47:31 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Intake Manifold Brass Adaptor Message-ID: Kevin, If you are talking about the water return pipe, they do deteriorate and need to be replaced. Removing the carbs and manifolds is necessary to do it properly but it is fairly easy. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 6parts at charter.net Thu Aug 23 07:57:06 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 09:57:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Intake Manifold Brass Adaptor References: Message-ID: <001301c7e58d$7ddf3cc0$9c07a942@alan> I believe your refering to the water pipe that is molded into the 72-76 intake manifold. There really is no cost effective way to repair a pipe that has rusted away on the ends , other than to replace the whole intake. You could run a rubber hose and by pass the intake, if replacing the intake is not an option. Al Salvatore From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 23 09:10:34 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 08:10:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <20070823072219.ED7E11879BF@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20070823151000.DPUO9920.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > Does anyone have an original Lucas parts list for TR3A? I am > trying to determine if Lucas part #32903A is a horn button > for a fixed or adjustable steering column. My book says 32903 is for a fixed column. Adjustable takes 32930. However, I believe the stub tube on the back of the control head is the only difference, and it will interchange fairly easily. Randall From FGFO1 at aol.com Thu Aug 23 11:11:38 2007 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 13:11:38 EDT Subject: [TR] to use gasket sealer or not Message-ID: Always use gasket sealer. I have found Hylomar to be the best by far. I have even used it without a gasket in an emergency. I had an occasion in 1987 to have some screws coated in Hylomar. I still have a bunch of them sitting in a parts bin open to the air. the Hylomar is still soft and sticky all these years later. Breaking open a joint and reusing is easy. I just cant say enough about it. Silicone however has never served me well. The slightest bit of oil missed out of cleaning will give you heartache. Frank Fisher ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com Thu Aug 23 11:36:04 2007 From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 12:36:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trailing Arm Question Message-ID: Tom, A while back, Darrell Walker from the list suggested that I use the 'E-Z-Lok' solid threaded insert for exactly the same problem. I used the original stud and a course thread for the insert because of the aluminum. Here's a link for the E-Z-Lok product: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=593 I was able to find the product and installation tool at a local fastener supplier. I also removed the trailing arm from the car and took it to a machine shop to have the new holes for the insert drilled and tapped. I imagine that you could do this with a hand drill, but the results will probably be hit and miss. Please fix this before you drive the car again!! These small studs are all the prevents your wheel from coming off in a corner. You need all of them properly mounted to avoid this. Cheers, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg On Aug 22nd, Tom Wagner wrote: On my 72 TR 6, the trailing arm assembly has 6 studs coming out the side of it where the axle attaches. Out of the 6 studs, I have 3 of them that are stripped, as it appears to be a cast aluminum, or very soft metal. Does anyone have any ideas about either how to re-tap them or some other method to hold the axle in place??? From wbeech at flash.net Thu Aug 23 20:46:28 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 20:46:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Restoration expert stole my car In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070824024613.A22681879E0@autox.team.net> Simon, Please provide some details to the list, comm number, color, etc..., should it surface for sale somewhere. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" -----Original Message----- From: british-cars-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:british-cars-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Matthews Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:16 PM To: brian fitzgerald Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [British-cars] Restoration expert stole my car Report the theft to the police, but first make sure that whoever evicted him from his shop does not have your car in storage or worse, has already sold it. Regards, Simon On Thu, 23 Aug 2007, brian fitzgerald wrote: > Just wanted everyone to know, that after paying a "restoration expert" > over $17,000 he has disappeared. Got evicted from his shop, > disconnected his phone and won't answer my letters [I think I have his > address] He also still has my 1960 TR3A...Anybody ever sucessfully sue in similar situations? > If so, was it NY and can I have the lawyers name? > > _________________________________________________________________ > Puzzles, trivia teasers, word scrambles and more. Play for your chance > to win! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_hotmailtextlink > _______________________________________________ > simon at matthews-family.org.uk > British-cars mailing list > British-cars at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/british-cars _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net British-cars mailing list British-cars at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/british-cars No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 8/23/2007 4:04 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 8/23/2007 4:04 PM From bfitz241 at hotmail.com Thu Aug 23 15:00:16 2007 From: bfitz241 at hotmail.com (brian fitzgerald) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 17:00:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Restoration expert stole my car In-Reply-To: <20070823151000.DPUO9920.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: Just wanted everyone to know, that after paying a "restoration expert" over $17,000 he has disappeared. Got evicted from his shop, disconnected his phone and won't answer my letters [I think I have his address] He also still has my 1960 TR3A...Anybody ever sucessfully sue in similar situations? If so, was it NY and can I have the lawyers name? _________________________________________________________________ Puzzles, trivia teasers, word scrambles and more. Play for your chance to win! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_hotmailtextlink From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Fri Aug 24 06:33:58 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 08:33:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Restoration expert stole my car References: Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C02D6DAE3@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Terrible news Brian. Is the car in the garage, or gone with the guy? If it's in the garage as part of the goods held against his missing rent etc, then you should be able to proved ownership and get it back easily. If he's disappeared with the car, then it is not a job for a lawyer, but for the police. Mark (not a lawyer but heard of similar situation) ________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net on behalf of brian fitzgerald Sent: Thu 23/08/2007 5:00 PM To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Restoration expert stole my car Just wanted everyone to know, that after paying a "restoration expert" over $17,000 he has disappeared. Got evicted from his shop, disconnected his phone and won't answer my letters [I think I have his address] He also still has my 1960 TR3A...Anybody ever sucessfully sue in similar situations? If so, was it NY and can I have the lawyers name? From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 24 07:02:06 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 13:02:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Restoration expert stole my car In-Reply-To: <20070824024613.A22681879E0@autox.team.net> Message-ID: It is a waste of money to sue someone that doesn't have anything. If you haven't already done so file a theft report with the police. Then hire a private investigator to find the guy and your car and take an officer to his his hide out. A good private investigator can track him in a day. Time is essential you have to get to him before he sells your car. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Find a local pizza place, movie theater, and more.then map the best route! http://maps.live.com/default.aspx?v=2&ss=yp.bars~yp.pizza~yp.movie%20theater&cp=42.358996~-71.056691&style=r&lvl=13&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=950607&encType=1&FORM=MGAC01 From thomasb at queensu.ca Fri Aug 24 07:06:40 2007 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 09:06:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Shock Conversion, Anyone? Message-ID: <0JNA00J5V4F9CG40@mta02.its.queensu.ca> Hi guys, One of our local club membersis looking for technical advice from anyone who has gone from Rear Lever Shocks to Rear tube Shock Conversions on a TR6. He is looking closely at the Roadster Factory Kit (TRFCD31M). If anyone has gone this route, I'm sure he would be most appreciative of any comments you may have. Please reply directly to him at: wilky73 at xplornet.com as he is not a list member. Thanks, Brian Brian S. Thomas e-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point work: 613-533-2228 R R 1 fax: 613-385-1948 Wolfe Island, Ontario home: 613-385-1947 K0H 2Y0 toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20 From pethier at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 07:14:36 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 13:14:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] Restoration expert stole my car Message-ID: <082420071314.28495.46CED9BC00030AC200006F4F22028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "brian fitzgerald" > Just wanted everyone to know, that after paying a "restoration expert" over > $17,000 he has disappeared. Got evicted from his shop, disconnected his > phone and won't answer my letters [I think I have his address] He also > still has my 1960 TR3A...Anybody ever sucessfully sue in similar situations? > If so, was it NY and can I have the lawyers name? I'm curious as to why you have not been shouting from the rooftops his name, his shop name, and his shop location. If it happened to me, I'd make sure everyone in the car world would know everything I knew about him. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 08:55:23 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 07:55:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 Message-ID: <000001c7e65e$ccbe0cf0$c52a144c@computer> To adjust the valves on my '74 TR6, I need a way to turn the engine over. Short of removing the radiator, I don't see a way to get to the front of the fan to do this. Any ideas for another method of getting the motor to go around slow enough? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Aug 24 09:04:54 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 11:04:54 EDT Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 Message-ID: In a message dated 8/24/2007 7:57:41 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jimhearn1 at comcast.net writes: To adjust the valves on my '74 TR6, I need a way to turn the engine over. Short of removing the radiator, I don't see a way to get to the front of the fan to do this. Any ideas for another method of getting the motor to go around slow enough? Jim, My experience is not TR6 specific, but I have found that with the plugs out and the car out of gear, pulling on the fan belt, or using a socket and large ratchet on the alternator nut while pressing in on the belt works well for me.I've used this method on my TR3, my Stag, and my XJ6. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 6parts at charter.net Fri Aug 24 09:09:44 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 11:09:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 References: <000001c7e65e$ccbe0cf0$c52a144c@computer> Message-ID: <004201c7e660$ce24de00$9c07a942@alan> After you take out all the spark plugs you should be able to turn the fan or put a socket on the Alternator nut to move the valves. Al Salvatore ----- Original Message ----- From: "jim hearn" To: Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 10:55 AM Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 > To adjust the valves on my '74 TR6, I need a way to turn the engine over. > Short of removing the radiator, I don't see a way to get to the front of > the > fan to do this. Any ideas for another method of getting the motor to go > around slow enough? From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 09:08:24 2007 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 15:08:24 +0000 Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 Message-ID: <082420071508.1751.46CEF468000A8AF4000006D722070215739D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "jim hearn" > To adjust the valves on my '74 TR6, I need a way to turn the engine over. > Short of removing the radiator, I don't see a way to get to the front of the > fan to do this. Any ideas for another method of getting the motor to go > around slow enough? > You could jack up one rear wheel, and with the trans in 4th, turn the wheel by hand. Or, if you have the room, push the whole car forward a few inches in 4th gear. But I think most people just hit the starter for a second (easy on a TR3 with the button on the solenoid, don't know if TR6's have that or not). Bob From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 09:18:02 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 08:18:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting Message-ID: <000701c7e661$f6730de0$c52a144c@computer> Thanks guys! Also, if my TR6 has an unknown but definitely hotter cam, are the valves still adjusted with the factory settings? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 24 09:24:12 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 08:24:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting In-Reply-To: <000701c7e661$f6730de0$c52a144c@computer> Message-ID: <20070824152338.UPMS19326.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> > Thanks guys! Also, if my TR6 has an unknown but definitely > hotter cam, are the valves still adjusted with the factory settings? Usually, though not always, 'hot' cams take more clearance than stock. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 24 09:31:22 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 08:31:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 In-Reply-To: <000001c7e65e$ccbe0cf0$c52a144c@computer> Message-ID: <20070824153048.RLYH11868.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > To adjust the valves on my '74 TR6, I need a way to turn the > engine over. I like to put it in gear and push the car backwards. Of course, that means I run the valves backwards too, but that's easy enough. Only takes about 2 feet of floor space; but since I don't have that much with the garage door closed, I take it out of gear, roll it back forward, put it in 4th again, and finish the job. I can usually just push on the body to roll the engine, but if yours turns harder, push on the top of the tire. Randall From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Fri Aug 24 09:47:29 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 17:47:29 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR4A heater. Message-ID: <001601c7e666$13e8e030$0500a8c0@Study> Putting my car back together after suffering a (happily mild) attack of shipwright's disease I have found one green wire with a spade connection which belongs to the heater switch under the radio bracket. It is live and switched by the ignition switch. I have spent a lot of time trying to locate the other wire, which should lead to the heater motor. With no luck. Does anyone know where I should look for said wire? It must be there somewhere as it all worked before! Feeling foolish, David Brister. 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5059 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Fri Aug 24 10:27:52 2007 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 11:27:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Restoration expert stole my car In-Reply-To: <082420071314.28495.46CED9BC00030AC200006F4F22028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <200708241629.l7OGStZd006799@host47.swh.bellsouth.net> Brian et al- I agree that you should have a police report filed and an investigation started. That may cause a criminal case to be developed against the restoration "expert." However, I caution you to not use the criminal process to gain a civil advantage. In other words, don't use the criminal process as a collection agency. If you do, in Kentucky at least, that can also be a crime or give rise to a civil action called abuse of process. I would certainly hate to see you victimized twice. Scam artists often seem to know how to "work" the system and this is one way they often do it. I would suggest employing an attorney on a contingent fee basis, where he or she receives a portion of the money recovered. I suspect there might be several attorneys that are car friendly who might be willing to help. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+sothornton=stevethorntonlaw.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+sothornton=stevethorntonlaw.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:15 AM To: brian fitzgerald; tr3driver at ca.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Restoration expert stole my car From: "brian fitzgerald" > Just wanted everyone to know, that after paying a "restoration expert" over > $17,000 he has disappeared. Got evicted from his shop, disconnected his > phone and won't answer my letters [I think I have his address] He also > still has my 1960 TR3A...Anybody ever sucessfully sue in similar situations? > If so, was it NY and can I have the lawyers name? I'm curious as to why you have not been shouting from the rooftops his name, his shop name, and his shop location. If it happened to me, I'd make sure everyone in the car world would know everything I knew about him. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. _______________________________________________ sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From pethier at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 15:18:56 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 21:18:56 +0000 Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 Message-ID: <082420072118.3897.46CF4B40000565DF00000F3922028887449D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "jim hearn" > To adjust the valves on my '74 TR6, I need a way to turn the engine over. > Short of removing the radiator, I don't see a way to get to the front of the > fan to do this. Any ideas for another method of getting the motor to go > around slow enough? There is nothing whatsoever on a Lotus Europa (Renault) engine you can grab onto to turn over the engine. Do what Europa folks do: Pull the spark plugs. Put the car in high gear. Push the car back and forth. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Aug 24 15:20:00 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 17:20:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A heater. In-Reply-To: <001601c7e666$13e8e030$0500a8c0@Study> References: <001601c7e666$13e8e030$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <200708241720.00166.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 24 August 2007 11:47 am, David Brister wrote: > Putting my car back together after suffering a (happily mild) attack of > shipwright's disease I have found one green wire with a spade connection > which belongs to the heater switch under the radio bracket. It is live and > switched by the ignition switch. I have spent a lot of time trying to > locate the other wire, which should lead to the heater motor. With no luck. > Does anyone know where I should look for said wire? It must be there > somewhere as it all worked before! > > Feeling foolish, > > David Brister. > 1967 TR4A David, If the heater is a single speed like the TR4 there should be 2 wires from the heater motor. The wire you mention that is hot should go to 1 side of the switch and any wire from the motor to the other side of the switch. The remaining motor wire will go to any ground. I dont believe it matters which motor wire goes to hot. Bob From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Aug 24 15:54:42 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 15:54:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] Restoration expert stole my car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46CF53A2.9000103@tscusa.org> brian fitzgerald wrote: > Just wanted everyone to know, that after paying a "restoration expert" over > $17,000 he has disappeared. Got evicted from his shop, disconnected his > phone and won't answer my letters [I think I have his address] He also > still has my 1960 TR3A...Anybody ever sucessfully sue in similar situations? > If so, was it NY and can I have the lawyers name? > Brian, Was it in Poughkeepsie by any chance?? Do you have receipts showing all work is paid for?? Take the receipts, and your title and registration with photos to the Police, file a theft report IMMEDIATELY!!! IF the car is in his facility and visible, the Police will make three attempts to contact the property owner. If they can not get in touch with the owner and it is visibly identifiable that it is your car, the sheriff will cut locks to allow you to retrieve your car. You may need to get a court order first using the information obtained by the police. If you do not have receipts, get copies of your checks or credit car charges. I hope you did not pay cash ... -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Aug 24 12:37:52 2007 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 11:37:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting In-Reply-To: <20070824152338.UPMS19326.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> References: <20070824152338.UPMS19326.mta15.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: In any case going a couple thou more than stock isn't a bad idea. Even if the cam is stock this gives you a margin of protection as you definitely do not wan the clearance to tight. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'jim hearn'" ; Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:24 AM Subject: Re: [TR] More on valve adjusting >> Thanks guys! Also, if my TR6 has an unknown but definitely >> hotter cam, are the valves still adjusted with the factory settings? > > Usually, though not always, 'hot' cams take more clearance than stock. From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Aug 24 19:15:14 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 21:15:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 In-Reply-To: <20070824153048.RLYH11868.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> References: <000001c7e65e$ccbe0cf0$c52a144c@computer> Message-ID: <46CF4A62.12089.116B4D9F@localhost> On 24 Aug 2007 at 8:31, Randall wrote: > > To adjust the valves on my '74 TR6, I need a way to turn the > > engine over. > > I like to put it in gear and push the car backwards. Why backwards? Because of the lower gear ratio? Or to keep the timing chain tensioned the right way? Nah, that doesn't make any sense that I can see. I just put the car in gear and rock it back and forth, or forth and back as appropriate. Almost any gear will do, but if I have to work in restriced driveway length, a lower gear is better. Of course, one advantage of working on a Spitfire or GT6 is that with the bonnet up the top of the front tire gives a 2:1 mechanical advantage for moving the car. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 8/23/2007 4:04 PM From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 19:17:13 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 18:17:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 clutch engagement Message-ID: <000001c7e6b5$aaf12d30$c52a144c@computer> If a '74 TR6 clutch pedal starts to engage the clutch pretty much right off the floor, does this indicate anything? Any idea where optimum engagement pedal travel is? I currently have the stock rigid push rod. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Aug 24 20:59:10 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 22:59:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] leather washer Message-ID: <019a01c7e6c3$ea875f60$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Randall, Thanks for the updated wiring diagram. also, while Moss doesn't show a leather washer for the oil pressure gauge for the TR3 they do for other models: #435-515 leather washer used on TR250, TR6 Thru 1972, MG TC,TD,TF. It might just be an omission? Thanks, Paul From pethier at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 21:11:29 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 03:11:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 Message-ID: <082520070311.14012.46CF9DE10004CD4B000036BC22058863609D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Jim Muller" > On 24 Aug 2007 at 8:31, Randall wrote: > > > > To adjust the valves on my '74 TR6, I need a way to turn the > > > engine over. > > > > I like to put it in gear and push the car backwards. > > Why backwards? Because of the lower gear ratio? Gear ratio is the same, Use top gear. Backwards is easier because you can bump the car bumper with your knees while you are looking at the valves or distributor cam or whatever you are working on. Obviously the Europa was easier forwards, because I was bumping the back bumper. :-) -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 24 21:24:23 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 20:24:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 In-Reply-To: <46CF4A62.12089.116B4D9F@localhost> Message-ID: <20070825032348.YLGQ16016.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > On 24 Aug 2007 at 8:31, Randall wrote: > > > > To adjust the valves on my '74 TR6, I need a way to turn > the engine > > > over. > > > > I like to put it in gear and push the car backwards. > > Why backwards? Because of the lower gear ratio? I just find backwards easier for me and my TR3A. To go backwards, I just push on the edge of the hood opening and watch for the valves to move to the next position. Harder to get lined up for a good push against the front apron, and my right arm is stronger than my left. Or if it's stubborn (like when I had the 11:1 head on it), I can wedge my leg against the front bumper and move it that way. Purely personal preference and convenience, certainly not the only way to do it. I use 4th gear, so the same gear ratio either way; and watch the valve train move so I don't care about any slack in the timing chain. Rather than using the "rule of 9", I just turn until both valves on a cylinder are open, and adjust the opposite cylinder (in the firing order) since it's valves must both be fully closed. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Aug 24 21:56:56 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 23:56:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 In-Reply-To: <082520070311.14012.46CF9DE10004CD4B000036BC22058863609D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <46CF7048.32209.11FF581A@localhost> On 25 Aug 2007 at 3:11, pethier at comcast.net wrote (and Randall wrote similarly): > Gear ratio is the same, Use top gear. Duh, of course. Why was I thunking reverse? Backwards must mean you were using reverse gear, right? :-) > Backwards is easier because you can bump the car bumper with your > knees while you are looking at the valves or distributor cam or > whatever you are working on. Well, as I said before, with a Spitfire or GT6 that's not an issue! > Obviously the Europa was easier forwards, because I was bumping the > back bumper. :-) I woulda' thought the Europa had overhead cams adjusted with shims. Except that it was just a Renault engine after all, right. Or was it adjustable OHC? Or was the JPS a real Lotus engine? Or are you just talking about setting static timing? So many questions. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 8/23/2007 4:04 PM From pethier at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 22:29:06 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 04:29:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 Message-ID: <082520070429.14603.46CFB012000622440000390B22007511509D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Jim Muller" > On 25 Aug 2007 at 3:11, pethier at comcast.net wrote (and Randall wrote > similarly): > > Backwards is easier because you can bump the car bumper with your > > knees while you are looking at the valves or distributor cam or > > whatever you are working on. > > Well, as I said before, with a Spitfire or GT6 that's not an issue! Hmm. The titular TR6 has a front-hinged hood, too. Oops. > > Obviously the Europa was easier forwards, because I was bumping the > > back bumper. :-) > > I woulda' thought the Europa had overhead cams adjusted with shims. The Twin Cam cars did. > Except that it was just a Renault engine after all, right. Or was it > adjustable OHC? The Renault engine in the original and Series 2 Lotus Europa cars was a pushrod engine with rocker arms. That's what I had. There is nothing sticking out the front of the engine. It is completely flat. The cam pulley sticks out the back of the block, but you are sternly warned to NEVER attempt to turn over the engine by turning the cam pulley. >Or was the JPS a real Lotus engine? All of the Twin Cam, Europa Special and the rare-but-often-faked John Player Special Europa cars had Ford blocks with the Lotus Twin Cam head. >Or are you just > talking about setting static timing? That too. > So many questions. I hope I had so many answers. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Aug 24 22:41:55 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 00:41:55 EDT Subject: [TR] Adjusting valves on a TR6 Message-ID: In a message dated 8/24/2007 9:29:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: From: "Jim Muller" > On 25 Aug 2007 at 3:11, pethier at comcast.net wrote (and Randall wrote > similarly): > > Backwards is easier because you can bump the car bumper with your > > knees while you are looking at the valves or distributor cam or > > whatever you are working on. > > Well, as I said before, with a Spitfire or GT6 that's not an issue! Hmm. The titular TR6 has a front-hinged hood, too. Oops. > > Obviously the Europa was easier forwards, because I was bumping the > > back bumper. :-) > > I woulda' thought the Europa had overhead cams adjusted with shims. The Twin Cam cars did. > Except that it was just a Renault engine after all, right. Or was it > adjustable OHC? The Renault engine in the original and Series 2 Lotus Europa cars was a pushrod engine with rocker arms. That's what I had. There is nothing sticking out the front of the engine. It is completely flat. The cam pulley sticks out the back of the block, but you are sternly warned to NEVER attempt to turn over the engine by turning the cam pulley. >Or was the JPS a real Lotus engine? All of the Twin Cam, Europa Special and the rare-but-often-faked John Player Special Europa cars had Ford blocks with the Lotus Twin Cam head. >Or are you just > talking about setting static timing? That too. > So many questions. I hope I had so many answers. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. _______________________________________________ If you have a TR3 up on jackstands and have a trouble light sitting under the pan, and yuu have the front wheels removed, and you bump the starter motor with the car in gear, it will leap off the jackstands, and will flatten the trouble light so flat you can hang it on your garage wall for your friends to admire. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Aug 25 05:47:19 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 07:47:19 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 clutch engagement Message-ID: In a message dated 8/24/2007 8:18:00 PM Central Daylight Time, jimhearn1 at comcast.net writes: > If a '74 TR6 clutch pedal starts to engage the clutch pretty much right off > the floor, does this indicate anything? Any idea where optimum engagement > pedal travel is? I currently have the stock rigid push rod. > That's pretty typical on the TR6. It usually gets worse gradually over time as the clevis and clevis pin wears. The hole in the throwout shaft lever will also wear. Sometimes it gets so bad that one must resort to extreem measure like usint the pin the shaft lever closest to the shaft. Having a rigid push rod is a good thing as a flexible one would be detrimental to clutch operation. Seriously, since the TR6 hydraulics are self adjusting putting in an adjustable rod would not resolve the situation. Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Aug 25 09:20:27 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 15:20:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting In-Reply-To: <000701c7e661$f6730de0$c52a144c@computer> Message-ID: Another way to bump your engine around for valve adjustment is to use a remote starter button available at your local parts store. You clip it onto a battery lead and the solenoid and it will activate you starter every time it is pressed. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Puzzles, trivia teasers, word scrambles and more. Play for your chance to win! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_hotmailtextlink From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Aug 25 09:46:25 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 15:46:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] leather washer Message-ID: <082520071546.14360.46D04ED1000310330000381822165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > also, while Moss doesn't show a leather washer for the oil pressure gauge for > the TR3 they do for other models: > #435-515 leather washer used on TR250, TR6 Thru 1972, MG TC,TD,TF. It might > just be an omission? > > Thanks, Paul Paul, I was able to locate a rubber washer that fit exactly at my local hardware store. Wasn't an o-ring. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Aug 26 08:00:10 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 14:00:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A bonnet safety latch? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi List, The lever handle on my bonnet safety latch gave up the ghost due to metal fatigue. Does anyone out there have a TR3A bonnet safety latch they will part with? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Messenger Cafi  open for fun 24/7. Hot games, cool activities served daily. Visit now. http://cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_AugHMtagline From eandy01 at msn.com Sun Aug 26 11:32:38 2007 From: eandy01 at msn.com (EDWARD ANDERSON) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 17:32:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting Message-ID: When using a remote starter, the only safe way, it's important to pull out the coil wire to avoid actually starting the engine. It will really mess up your feeler gauge if you don't. eandy01 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Aug 26 11:35:28 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 13:35:28 EDT Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting Message-ID: In a message dated 8/26/2007 10:33:21 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, eandy01 at msn.com writes: When using a remote starter, the only safe way, it's important to pull out the coil wire to avoid actually starting the engine. It will really mess up your feeler gauge if you don't. eandy01 And your undergarments. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sun Aug 26 12:00:19 2007 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 14:00:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting In-Reply-To: Message-ID: >When using a remote starter, the only safe way, it's important to pull out >the >coil wire to avoid actually starting the engine. It will really mess up >your >feeler gauge if you don't. >eandy01 Have you experimented with the effect on feeler gages when the engine starts? From DLylis at aol.com Sun Aug 26 12:36:27 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 14:36:27 EDT Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Restoration expert stole my car Message-ID: Have I missed the guys name and description of the car? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 26 13:54:23 2007 From: wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net (William Babbitt) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 12:54:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Returned Moss Parts Message-ID: <191350.28170.qm@web81014.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Just wanted to mention a pleasant experience: I purchased a part from Moss that failed in use (this isn't the pleasant part). Not only did they refund what I paid for the part, but for the shipping and handling, AND my cost to ship the part back to them. I received a quick refund and an apology for the inconvenience. Great company to do business with..... thanks, Bill Babbitt TR3a From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 26 15:25:38 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 14:25:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070826212502.TZRP16016.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > When using a remote starter, the only safe way, it's > important to pull out the coil wire to avoid actually > starting the engine. Depends on the engine. TR2-early TR6 lack the circuit that powers the coil just because the starter is engaged, so they won't start unless the key is on. BTW, it's much better to pull off a low-tension wire. Pulling the high tension wire can damage the coil, especially if you've upgraded the system for higher voltage. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Aug 26 17:27:06 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 19:27:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF Brake Discs Message-ID: <000001c7e838$a00f7a50$210110ac@bobspc> TRF has their EBC HIGH-TECH BRAKE DISCS on sale this week (http://tinyurl.com/36zb3d) and I'm wondering what ya'all's experience is with them beyond the "looks cool" factor. Do they make a difference in braking in normal driving or are they mostly for the racer in us? Also the description says "finished in gold cadmium plating to protect them till you put them on your car". Does that mean the gold plating will wear off as you use them and what do they look like after that? Does anybody have another recommendation in the $190 range that TRF is offering? Thanks....starting to collect parts for the brake rebuild project in Nov/Dec. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.8/973 - Release Date: 8/25/2007 5:00 PM From acekraut11 at aol.com Sun Aug 26 18:33:22 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 20:33:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TRF Brake Discs In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F594DDB@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <000001c7e838$a00f7a50$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F594DDB@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <8C9B65902507190-190-6354@FWM-M03.sysops.aol.com> List: This brings up a couple other questions.? If the green stuff is a marketing success, what does that mean in regards to those pads?? Are they just as good as regular brake pads, but not better?? If I recall correctly (big if) then one of the benefits of the green stuff pads was also reduced brake dust.? For those who have switched, is this the case?? Like you Stan, I have accumulated a set of green stuff brake pads and will put them one one of these days but they might go on sooner if the amount of brake dust was reduced.? Guess I am lucky I was too cheap to buy the big buck rotors. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan To: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 'Triumph 6 Pack' <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 8:14 pm Subject: RE: [6pack] TRF Brake Discs At the recent VTR convention there was a session on tuning Triumphs. On the topic of brakes I heard two things: Green stuff is a marketing success, if you want good upgraded brakes use Kevlar Drilled and slotted rotors are bling Rather unfortunate as I have both sitting in the basement.. Stan -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 7:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 'Triumph 6 Pack' Subject: [6pack] TRF Brake Discs TRF has their EBC HIGH-TECH BRAKE DISCS on sale this week (http://tinyurl.com/36zb3d) and I'm wondering what ya'all's experience is with them beyond the "looks cool" factor. Do they make a difference in braking in normal driving or are they mostly for the racer in us? Also the description says "finished in gold cadmium plating to protect them till you put them on your car". Does that mean the gold plating will wear off as you use them and what do they look like after that? Does anybody have another recommendation in the $190 range that TRF is offering? Thanks....starting to collect parts for the brake rebuild project in Nov/Dec. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Aug 26 18:41:52 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 20:41:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] SE VTR Message-ID: <000801c7e843$0fd8fc80$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> I just talked with Ronnie Babbitt with the Georgia VTR and learned that registrations are really slow for the October 18, 19 and 20 convention at Jekyll Island. I know that Labor Day is coming and we have a lot of other stuff on our minds, BUT if you're planning to attend - or can be persuaded to attend - I would ask you to register soon. On line registration is up at SEVTR.org and if you have any problems, don't hesitate to contact me. We always have a good time, the venue can't be beat, quiet, lovely and basically the whole island to ourselves. Jekyll Island is full of bike trails and walking, too. The fresh caught seafood is great -- ok, ok I'm really prejudice..... No financial ( just emotional) interest. Tom 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag From dorpaul at negia.net Sun Aug 26 18:50:30 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 20:50:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Returned Moss Parts References: <191350.28170.qm@web81014.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <024e01c7e844$469f1780$8b0360cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> But, I understand returning parts to them is very difficult. I lost $30 in a mixup on my first ever combined order (long story). I'd prefer to order from TRF but find their website difficult due to my slow internet connection. Paul 60 TR3 From Jody007 at aol.com Sun Aug 26 19:51:14 2007 From: Jody007 at aol.com (Jody007 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 21:51:14 EDT Subject: [TR] Flywheel the movie Message-ID: Anyone watch it yet? A very clean TR3 in it. ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Aug 26 20:27:09 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 22:27:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] SE VTR References: <000801c7e843$0fd8fc80$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <001c01c7e851$c544bd80$30097247@fred8kwiskhcfu> I'll be there and it will be the first big event "SHE" has ever looked forwarded to going, I think it is because of the the very fine friends she has coming-up from Florida, as a matter of fact I know it is, really a very nice event, try to make, you will not be sorry. "FT" =========================================================================================================== >I just talked with Ronnie Babbitt with the Georgia VTR and learned that > registrations are really slow for the October 18, 19 and 20 convention at > Jekyll Island. > I know that Labor Day is coming and we have a lot of other stuff on our > minds, > BUT if you're planning to attend - or can be persuaded to attend - I would > ask > you to register soon. On line registration is up at SEVTR.org and if you > have > any problems, don't hesitate to contact me. We always have a good time, > the > venue can't be beat, quiet, lovely and basically the whole island to > ourselves. Jekyll Island is full of bike trails and walking, too. The > fresh > caught seafood is great -- ok, ok I'm really prejudice..... > No financial ( just emotional) interest. > Tom > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 73 Stag > _______________________________________________ > frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From bbrewer at tvwireless.net Sun Aug 26 21:47:41 2007 From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 20:47:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A bonnet safety latch? Message-ID: <147BC573-DDD4-495C-B5EA-9332C5FC1C52@tvwireless.net> Hi Tom, My latch broke and I bought a new pot metal one from MOSS and fitted it in. There was some minor interference that I fixed with a file, but it works better than new now. -Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA Message: 1 Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 14:00:10 +0000 From: "tom white" Subject: [TR] TR3A bonnet safety latch? To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hi List, The lever handle on my bonnet safety latch gave up the ghost due to metal fatigue. Does anyone out there have a TR3A bonnet safety latch they will part with? Thanks. Best regards, Tom From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 26 22:32:41 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 21:32:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TRF Brake Discs In-Reply-To: <8C9B65902507190-190-6354@FWM-M03.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20070827043205.LXMJ9920.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > If I recall correctly (big if) then one of the > benefits of the green stuff pads was also reduced brake > dust.? So far, almost everyone seems to agree they work about as well as good stock pads (there are some lousy ones around, apparently) or maybe a bit better, but generate just as much dust or maybe a bit more. Instead, I bought 'Kevlar' pads from TSi ... But haven't really had a chance to try them out yet. I'm more interested in fade resistance than increased coefficient of friction or reduced dust anyway. Randall From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 27 06:36:36 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 12:36:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting In-Reply-To: Message-ID: >When using a remote starter, the only safe way, it's important to pull out >the >coil wire to avoid actually starting the engine. It will really mess up >your >feeler gauge if you don't. If you leave the ignition key turned off this shouldn't be a problem. Connected properly the remote button will only activate the starter. If it did activate the ignition it would break the circuit when you stop pressing the button and the engine wouldn't run. Best regards, Tom >From: EDWARD ANDERSON >To: >Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting >Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 17:32:38 +0000 > >When using a remote starter, the only safe way, it's important to pull out >the >coil wire to avoid actually starting the engine. It will really mess up >your >feeler gauge if you don't. >eandy01 >_______________________________________________ >tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs _________________________________________________________________ Puzzles, trivia teasers, word scrambles and more. Play for your chance to win! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_hotmailtextlink From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 27 07:29:35 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:29:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] TRF Brake Discs In-Reply-To: <000001c7e838$a00f7a50$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: When is one of the big 3 going to come up with a high tech brake solution for the TR3A? So far all I have seen available is the Toyota conversion requiring changing to TR4 parts in the process. With all the good brake manufacturers out there surely there is a caliper and disc that can be bolted up to the TR3A mounts. Although the conversion, IMHO, is only to achieve a weight advantage since the front discs on the TR3A offer a lot of braking for the size of the car. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ A new home for Mom, no cleanup required. All starts here. http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us From wbeech at flash.net Mon Aug 27 08:39:43 2007 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 08:39:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A bonnet safety latch? In-Reply-To: <147BC573-DDD4-495C-B5EA-9332C5FC1C52@tvwireless.net> Message-ID: <20070827143921.5B3AB1879D9@autox.team.net> Bill, Mine is broken too, but I didn't see just the latch in the catalog. Is it what they are calling the 'Safety Hook' part number 802-276? There is no picture reference to it. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line again!" This information is privileged and confidential and is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of this information (including attachments) by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please delete the information from your system and contact the sender. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 9:48 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A bonnet safety latch? Hi Tom, My latch broke and I bought a new pot metal one from MOSS and fitted it in. There was some minor interference that I fixed with a file, but it works better than new now. -Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA Message: 1 Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 14:00:10 +0000 From: "tom white" Subject: [TR] TR3A bonnet safety latch? To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hi List, The lever handle on my bonnet safety latch gave up the ghost due to metal fatigue. Does anyone out there have a TR3A bonnet safety latch they will part with? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _______________________________________________ wbeech at flash.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.8/974 - Release Date: 8/26/2007 4:34 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.8/974 - Release Date: 8/26/2007 4:34 PM From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Aug 27 08:50:37 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 10:50:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TRF Brake Discs In-Reply-To: <000001c7e838$a00f7a50$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c7e838$a00f7a50$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: On Sun, 26 Aug 2007, Bob Danielson wrote: > TRF has their EBC HIGH-TECH BRAKE DISCS on sale this week > (http://tinyurl.com/36zb3d) and I'm wondering what ya'all's experience is > with them beyond the "looks cool" factor. Do they make a difference in > braking in normal driving or are they mostly for the racer in us? IMHO, these items are more about the "gee whiz" factor. As I've posted before, put real tires on your car and you'll get a lot more bang for your buck. As a point of information, some parts like this effect your classing in race orgs, so read your rule sif you do race. > Also the > description says "finished in gold cadmium plating to protect them till you > put them on your car". Does that mean the gold plating will wear off as you > use them and what do they look like after that? The plating will wear off the contact area where the brake disk touches. But the plating should protect the surfaces on the rotor that do not touch the pads. > Does anybody have another > recommendation in the $190 range that TRF is offering? Nope. > Thanks....starting to collect parts for the brake rebuild project in > Nov/Dec. It's always good to do some planning! > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 27 09:14:59 2007 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 08:14:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 Bonnet (Hood) Release In-Reply-To: <20070827143921.5B3AB1879D9@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Hi All, I'm finally getting my "2" together, and trying to get ready for the British car show in Palo Alto, CA in a couple of weeks. I'm having trouble getting the latches on the bonnet to match up with the two releases. I've got both cables connected, and they seem to be working OK. Does anyone who has worked on the long door TR2's have any suggestions? Thanks in advance, David Gunn TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ See what youre getting intobefore you go there http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507 From 308gtsi at adelphia.net Mon Aug 27 10:34:29 2007 From: 308gtsi at adelphia.net (Brian Induni) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 09:34:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Loud timing chain Message-ID: <03bc01c7e8c8$246db020$0801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Hello all, As I drive my just finished '67 TR4a for the first time, I'm noticing some growls and noises that are concerning - the first is what sounds to the timing chain. At first I thought it was the valves, but then a neighbor who apparently has had a few TR's said "no, that's the timing chain rattling against the tensioner". Makes sense to me! Any thoughts from the group on if this is normal, and should I be concerned? It makes the clatter when I unload the engine, that is when I lift my foot from the accelerator to shift. I should note that the engine has LOTS of torque, and accelerates like a dragster from standstill! I went with the 87mm upgrade when I rebuilt the engine, and had the head completely rebuilt, and it was all worth it! Thanks for the help. Brian '67 TR4a, showing at the Portland OR All British Field Meet this weekend. From triumph66 at gmail.com Mon Aug 27 12:08:10 2007 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 14:08:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TRF Brake Discs In-Reply-To: References: <000001c7e838$a00f7a50$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: The fellows @ GrassRootsMotorSports mag seem to have had good luck with stock Brembo rotors coupled to Hawk HPS pads. "we also installed some Russell brake lines, Brembo OE front rotors and Hawk HPS brake pads. We're running Valvoline's synthetic brake fluid. The final verdict? Hey, the car stops, and the brake pedal no longer sinks when we're sitting at a stop light." http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/2005/07/ See also, http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/2005GRMbrand.pdf FWIW, in an early 2007 article GRMS mentioned installing the brembo stock non-drilled/non-slotted rotors to Hawk HPS on tons of their cars with tried and tested results. NFI, Ted On 8/27/07, Robert Lang wrote: > > On Sun, 26 Aug 2007, Bob Danielson wrote: > > > TRF has their EBC HIGH-TECH BRAKE DISCS on sale this week > > (http://tinyurl.com/36zb3d) and I'm wondering what ya'all's experience > is > > with them beyond the "looks cool" factor. Do they make a difference in > > braking in normal driving or are they mostly for the racer in us? > > IMHO, these items are more about the "gee whiz" factor. As I've posted > before, put real tires on your car and you'll get a lot more bang for your > buck. > > As a point of information, some parts like this effect your classing in > race orgs, so read your rule sif you do race. > > > Also the > > description says "finished in gold cadmium plating to protect them till > you > > put them on your car". Does that mean the gold plating will wear off as > you > > use them and what do they look like after that? > > The plating will wear off the contact area where the brake disk touches. > But the plating should protect the surfaces on the rotor that do not touch > the pads. > > > Does anybody have another > > recommendation in the $190 range that TRF is offering? > > Nope. > > > Thanks....starting to collect parts for the brake rebuild project in > > Nov/Dec. > > It's always good to do some planning! > > > Bob Danielson > > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > regards, > rml > > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent > Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | > Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > triumph66 at gmail.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO From guy at genfiniti.com Mon Aug 27 12:17:48 2007 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:17:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Loud timing chain In-Reply-To: <03bc01c7e8c8$246db020$0801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> References: <03bc01c7e8c8$246db020$0801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <001501c7e8d6$9321a6d0$3f0210ac@idea.com> Just a thought... But could this be causes by the tensioner being incorrectly oriented? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Induni Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 11:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Loud timing chain Hello all, As I drive my just finished '67 TR4a for the first time, I'm noticing some growls and noises that are concerning - the first is what sounds to the timing chain. At first I thought it was the valves, but then a neighbor who apparently has had a few TR's said "no, that's the timing chain rattling against the tensioner". Makes sense to me! Any thoughts from the group on if this is normal, and should I be concerned? It makes the clatter when I unload the engine, that is when I lift my foot from the accelerator to shift. I should note that the engine has LOTS of torque, and accelerates like a dragster from standstill! I went with the 87mm upgrade when I rebuilt the engine, and had the head completely rebuilt, and it was all worth it! Thanks for the help. Brian '67 TR4a, showing at the Portland OR All British Field Meet this weekend. _______________________________________________ guy at genfiniti.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From ray at raysmg.com Mon Aug 27 15:19:04 2007 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 14:19:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Returned Moss Parts Message-ID: <20070827141904.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.8c5964a118.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Paul wrote: "But, I understand returning parts to them is very difficult." I disagree; I don't see how returning parts to ANY vendor could be much easier. I ordered a number of body panels recently for my current project car ('62 Sprite). After receiving the order I found MORE rust and needed to exchange a pair of lower fender patch panels for the larger fender patch panels. I also made the mistake of ordering one item listed as a "bulkhead/floor reinforcement set" as well as a "brace", which was included in the set. So, I also returned the (2) "brace(s)". For the returns I simply made a copy of the original invoices, filled out the return info on the back, and checked the box stating that the parts were not needed. The original invoice has a tear-out label for returns so they can easily correlate the return to the original order. I made the returns in two different boxes on different days. I received a credit card credit for each within a couple weeks. IMO...couldn't be much easier. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Aug 27 15:42:52 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 17:42:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Returned Moss Parts References: <20070827141904.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.8c5964a118.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Message-ID: <023f01c7e8f3$38892f00$d82d7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> For a 59 T/R 3, A few years back I inquired from my Moss salesman as regards to a radiators country of origin as I did not want such a part stamped "made in China', I was assured it wasn't, so I ordered one and began removing the nose and parts from my car, box arrives and sure enough "MADE IN CHINA" stamped on it, i have no idea other than 100% stupity I installed it and what a mess I had, a total piece of crap, removed it returned it for a credit and was told I had to pay shipping, that was $28.00 each way or $56.00 total, after 3 phone calls and several e-mails with no satisfaction ever given my orders to Moss "STOPPED", I'm sure it was a mistake somewhere on their part, but I tried. I really do not like posting bad comments about our vendors but $56.00 out of my pockets for such a transaction for a piece of junk would not make anyone happy. "FT" From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Aug 27 15:44:35 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 17:44:35 EDT Subject: [TR] Returned Moss Parts Message-ID: My Chinese Moss radiator works fine. Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Aug 27 15:51:19 2007 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 17:51:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Returned Moss Parts References: Message-ID: <025801c7e8f4$6740c230$d82d7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> My Chinese Moss radiator works fine. Mike Moore +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ That's great for you, my results were much less than that, I sure many owners have similar experiences as you. "FT" From bbrewer at tvwireless.net Mon Aug 27 17:01:09 2007 From: bbrewer at tvwireless.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 16:01:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A bonnet safety latch? In-Reply-To: <200708270740435.SM02892@spamalyzer2.interworld.net> References: <200708270740435.SM02892@spamalyzer2.interworld.net> Message-ID: <891F9438-6D7D-4128-863B-1F4C7C60F633@tvwireless.net> Yep. The 802-276 safety hook is it. In the catalog you can see what it is pointing to. Mine required minor fitting with a file. I also made some spiffy stainless washers on the side of the mounting pin so the cotter key wouldn't gouge it up. Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA On Aug 27, 2007, at 7:39 AM, wbeech wrote: > Bill, > > Mine is broken too, but I didn't see just the latch in the > catalog. Is it > what they are calling the 'Safety Hook' part number 802-276? There > is no > picture reference to it. > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) > "A bad day in your TR just gives you license to go shopping on-line > again!" > > > This information is privileged and confidential and is intended > only for the > person or entity to which it is addressed. Any review, retransmission, > dissemination or other use of this information (including > attachments) by > persons or entities other than the intended recipient is > prohibited. If you > are not the intended recipient, please delete the information from > your > system and contact the sender. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > William Brewer > Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 9:48 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR3A bonnet safety latch? > > Hi Tom, > My latch broke and I bought a new pot metal one from MOSS and > fitted > it in. There was some minor interference that I fixed with a file, > but it > works better than new now. > > -Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 14:00:10 +0000 > From: "tom white" > Subject: [TR] TR3A bonnet safety latch? > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed > > Hi List, > > The lever handle on my bonnet safety latch gave up the ghost due to > metal > fatigue. Does anyone out there have a TR3A bonnet safety latch > they will > part with? > > Thanks. > > > Best regards, > Tom From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Aug 27 17:20:29 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 23:20:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] Returned Moss Parts Message-ID: <082720072320.9388.46D35C3D00085E76000024AC22165279669C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> I have to concur that the TRF, Moss, and Ken Gilanders have all been impeccable for customer service during my 3.5 years of parts relationships with them. It is actually I who owe Moss a call to return a replacement windwing set they sent that I no longer need. Terry Smith, '590 TR3A New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: ray at raysmg.com > Paul wrote: "But, I understand returning parts to them is very > difficult." > > I disagree; I don't see how returning parts to ANY vendor could be much > easier. I ordered a number of body panels recently for my current > project car ('62 Sprite). After receiving the order I found MORE rust > and needed to exchange a pair of lower fender patch panels for the > larger fender patch panels. I also made the mistake of ordering one item > listed as a "bulkhead/floor reinforcement set" as well as a "brace", > which was included in the set. So, I also returned the (2) "brace(s)". > > For the returns I simply made a copy of the original invoices, filled > out the return info on the back, and checked the box stating that the > parts were not needed. The original invoice has a tear-out label for > returns so they can easily correlate the return to the original order. I > made the returns in two different boxes on different days. I received a > credit card credit for each within a couple weeks. > > IMO...couldn't be much easier. > > Ray > > Ray McCaleb > ray at raysmg.com > http://www.raysmg.com > _______________________________________________ > terryrs at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From guy at genfiniti.com Mon Aug 27 17:57:35 2007 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 18:57:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A Question of Space Message-ID: <000701c7e906$0ad89470$6901a8c0@idea.com> Listers, I recently got the fan extension added to the engine. It rotates without any grinding sounds, but the paint is uncomfortably rubbing off on the steering rack. How much space should be between these two surfaces? If I don't have enough, is it safe to add washers to the front engine mounts to raise the height? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins Kennedale, Texas 1965 Triumph TR4A (CTC 63569LO) http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From DLylis at aol.com Mon Aug 27 19:39:38 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 21:39:38 EDT Subject: [TR] Returned Moss Parts Message-ID: I called Ken Gilanders on FT's recommendation to inquire about some parts. He advised that I not buy them and told me why I didn't need to. Not to mention the guy is worth 15 minutes of entertainment when I call! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 27 19:44:40 2007 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 21:44:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A Question of Space References: <000701c7e906$0ad89470$6901a8c0@idea.com> Message-ID: I read somewhere that on earlier cars equpped with the hand crank feature, it was standard practice to use spacers in the motor mount to adjust the engine crank to align with the radiator hole. > If I don't have enough, is it safe to add washers to the front engine > mounts > to raise the height? From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Aug 27 20:42:44 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 22:42:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46D35364.3843.212E7D78@localhost> On 27 Aug 2007 at 12:36, tom white wrote: > > When using a remote starter, the only safe way, it's important to pull out > > the coil wire to avoid actually starting the engine. It will really mess up > > your feeler gauge if you don't. > If you leave the ignition key turned off this shouldn't be a problem. Can't say whether it will or won't start the engine. Seems to me that it would depend on the wiring and not every model's engine was necessarily wired the same way. But I remember years ago (okay, decades ago) watching someone adjusting valves while the engine was running. Okay, it was some boring American iron and probably running about 400 rpm. IIRC it wasn't even too messy. I've never had the nerve to try it myself. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.9/975 - Release Date: 8/26/2007 9:34 PM From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Aug 27 21:08:04 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 23:08:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Yet Another TR6 Clutch Post Message-ID: <8C9B737C8E0B3A2-F48-261C@WEBMAIL-MB15.sysops.aol.com> Hi List: While there have been many discussions regarding the TR6 clutch I dont recall this particular question being asked.? According to TRF web site: "Joachim does not recommend using his throw-out bearing with Borg & Beck pressure plates or with any pressure plates having bent or "crooked" end on? spring fingers..." Of course, I purchased a clutch set-up before being aware of this fact and, you guessed it, it is a Borg & Beck, and it has bent fingers.? What has been the experience of the list regarding this set-up?? Has anyone installed a Gunst bearing with a Borg & Beck pressure plate or another brand with bent fingers.? What was the result?? TRF suggest that LUK clutches are best with the Gunst Bearing.? For those running with the Gunst bearing what do you have installed for other components besides B&B and how is your set-up performing? Thanks in advance for your advice. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 Topsham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 27 21:12:19 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 20:12:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting In-Reply-To: <46D35364.3843.212E7D78@localhost> Message-ID: <20070828031142.ULDF14324.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > But I > remember years ago (okay, decades ago) watching someone > adjusting valves while the engine was running. Indeed, that was the accepted method on some V8's. The adjustment was on the pivot (so didn't jump around like a Triumph's adjustment will); and the proper adjustment was to back off the nut until the valve clattered (indicating the hydraulic lifter was at the end of it's travel), then tighten it some specified number of turns. > IIRC it wasn't even too messy. There were special clips you could buy to temporarily block off the oil holes, but most people just let it fly. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 27 21:24:13 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 20:24:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A Question of Space In-Reply-To: <000701c7e906$0ad89470$6901a8c0@idea.com> Message-ID: <20070828032336.JAFQ16016.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > I recently got the fan extension added to the engine. > It rotates without any grinding sounds, but the paint is > uncomfortably rubbing off on the steering rack. > > How much space should be between these two surfaces? Should be enough to pass a fan belt through there. > If I don't have enough, is it safe to add washers to the > front engine mounts to raise the height? Yes. The factory did that too, on the earlier cars (not sure about a 4A), to align the crank dog with the crank hole. Randall From ebartle at hbci.com Mon Aug 27 21:30:49 2007 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 22:30:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr3 A Horn Parts and Oil Pressure guage line {through the firewall} Message-ID: <20070828033129.444EC1BFCB@mail.hbci.com> If you have either of these parts, please contact me off line. Eric Bartleson From KingR44916 at aol.com Tue Aug 28 09:25:46 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:25:46 EDT Subject: [TR] chrome plating Message-ID: anyone know of any platers in new york or new jersey ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From triumphworks at gmail.com Tue Aug 28 09:29:55 2007 From: triumphworks at gmail.com (Alain) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:29:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] p/n(s) for Bosch or Pro-Start high-torque gear reduction starters Message-ID: Does anyone have any p/n(s) for Bosch or Pro-Start high-torque gear reduction starters. Has anyone had any luck sourcing these type of starters from their FLAPS, e.g., Pep Boys, Advance, etc. I am looking to make the jump for my 4A, no pun intended. TIA, Alain -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 From hdrider570 at peoplepc.com Tue Aug 28 09:39:09 2007 From: hdrider570 at peoplepc.com (hdrider570 at peoplepc.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 08:39:09 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity Message-ID: <13071046.1188315549469.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I have used the aluminum body shims quite sucsessfully in the past. The nice part is that they have a slot in them so you do not have to remove the mount to install them. Generally I have used one on each side. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com From BearTranserv at aol.com Tue Aug 28 09:51:03 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:51:03 EDT Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting Message-ID: In a message dated 8/27/2007 8:49:14 PM Mountain Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: But I remember years ago (okay, decades ago) watching someone adjusting valves while the engine was running. Okay, it was some boring American iron and probably running about 400 rpm. IIRC it wasn't even too messy. I've never had the nerve to try it myself. The last time I adjusted the valves on a Triumph (62 TR3) was in 1970, in the yard in front of the trailer I lived in while going to college....I used just this method you describe. Listening through a length of hose, tightening until it quits clacking, and then backing off just a smidge. It ran great when I finished. It was a bit messy, but not too bad. A couple of years later on my 53 Chevy pickup with the in-line six, I cut a flap in the top of an extra valve cover and used the same method to adjust those valves. I've seen my dad use a feeler guage while an engine was running. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From pethier at comcast.net Tue Aug 28 09:57:47 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 15:57:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting Message-ID: <082820071557.22833.46D445FB0001B1E00000593122007354469D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Randall" > > But I > > remember years ago (okay, decades ago) watching someone > > adjusting valves while the engine was running. > There were special clips you could buy to temporarily block off the oil > holes, but most people just let it fly. I believe that you could buy special splash shields for several popular V8 engines. You would removed the valve cover and fit the shield, which caught the oil like a big funnel and directed it back into the engine. I witnessed this in use when I was a small boy at a shop in the building where my dad's used-car office was on Arcade Street in Saint Paul. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Tue Aug 28 10:08:48 2007 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 12:08:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting In-Reply-To: <20070828031142.ULDF14324.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C074DA527@exchange.terra-incognita.net> I've been adjusting my TR6's valves with the engine running for years. Flat screwdriver in one hand, open wrench in other and friend holding tip of mechanical stethoscope to pivot point of rocker while I listen and adjust. You tighten just until the hammering is almost gone. I never had too much oil splatter. Of course, now I am using an auxiliary feed and beginning to think of removing it do to the large amount of oil escaping the valve cover via the breathing pipe. Makes the car smelly too. Cheers, Mark -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: August 27, 2007 11:12 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] More on valve adjusting > But I > remember years ago (okay, decades ago) watching someone > adjusting valves while the engine was running. Indeed, that was the accepted method on some V8's. The adjustment was on the pivot (so didn't jump around like a Triumph's adjustment will); and the proper adjustment was to back off the nut until the valve clattered (indicating the hydraulic lifter was at the end of it's travel), then tighten it some specified number of turns. > IIRC it wasn't even too messy. There were special clips you could buy to temporarily block off the oil holes, but most people just let it fly. Randall _______________________________________________ mhooper at digiscreen.ca From motorcarriage at charter.net Tue Aug 28 12:04:02 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 14:04:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting References: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C074DA527@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <003a01c7e99d$d0e0a8f0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> I too have been adjusting valves with the engine running for years, though mostly as a secondary process after the static settings retained a noisy clearance somewhere. While growing up at our family's Rootes Group, Rover, Saab and NSU new car dealership I witnessed my father doing it all the time without any Stethoscope, Rubber Hoses,Splash shields etc. As long as the Feeler Gauge is still sliding You develop a feel for a proper clearance with the Feeler Gauge. I only do it now following a static adjustment that didn't resolve a noisy clearance. It's great for isolating the noisy Rocker. And, you can always confirm with the engine off and another check. I can't imagine getting a very precise gap by over tightening, then backing off audibly, there's too many variables to compensate for like a worn Rocker Shaft etc. I just recently went through this process on my TR6, and I have the Aux Oil Feed with a Petcock off of my Oil Pressure outlet, and it was no problem even though it was open. You can really see how the Head gets over fed with Oil and I back off the Tap while it's running. I'm thinking of putting a pressure gauge on the outlet side of the Sender Unit feed to mark my preferred setting, but haven't gotten one yet. Maybe the next time I have it off. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas,MA 58 TR3 (project) 64 TR4 (project) 75 TR6 (daily driver) 64 Land Rover 109 Pickup 65 Land Rover 109 3-Door 65 Rolls Silver Cloud III Lola T598 #10 > I've been adjusting my TR6's valves with the engine running for years. > Of course, now I am using an auxiliary feed and beginning to think of > removing it do to the large amount of oil escaping the valve cover via > the breathing pipe. Makes the car smelly too. > > Cheers, > > Mark > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf > Of Randall > Sent: August 27, 2007 11:12 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] More on valve adjusting > >> But I >> remember years ago (okay, decades ago) watching someone >> adjusting valves while the engine was running. > > Indeed, that was the accepted method on some V8's. The adjustment was > on > the pivot (so didn't jump around like a Triumph's adjustment will); and > the > proper adjustment was to back off the nut until the valve clattered > (indicating the hydraulic lifter was at the end of it's travel), then > tighten it some specified number of turns. > >> IIRC it wasn't even too messy. > > There were special clips you could buy to temporarily block off the oil > holes, but most people just let it fly. > > Randall From peter at nosimport.com Tue Aug 28 12:39:55 2007 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 13:39:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting In-Reply-To: <003a01c7e99d$d0e0a8f0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> References: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C074DA527@exchange.terra-incognita.net> <003a01c7e99d$d0e0a8f0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070828133429.03660878@nosimport.com> Wayne, I have a few Landies myself, btw. I have been most successful by using a Go-NoGo technique. If the clearance should be .015" then a .014: will "Go" and a .016" will "No-Go". Eliminates the "feel" factor. First engine I ever tried adjusting running was my 60 109 and I looked like an Alaskan seal after the Valdez. Never again, and no need to, Peter C. ===================== At 01:04 PM 8/28/2007, Wayne Lee wrote: >I too have been adjusting valves with the engine running for years, though >mostly as a secondary process after the static settings retained a noisy >clearance somewhere. From CarlSereda at aol.com Tue Aug 28 13:01:08 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 15:01:08 EDT Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A Message-ID: The TR4-A's square 'fail-safe' motor mounts are definitely shorter than the round TR4 style - and that's probably the reason why you have no fan belt space on your 4A. I would add big flat washers to new TR4-A mounts, or switch to the taller round TR4 motor mounts to get the 1/2" space needed for changing belts.. (or jack up your motor a little to change belts - not easy to do on the side of the road) It is important to know too that the TR4-A 'cone style' rear hood supports allow deeper travel than the TR4 style 'flat rubber' supports when 'drop-closing' your hood, ie; TR4-A owners risk smacking their hood on the thermostat housing - for an ugly dimple - not a problem on TR4s. To remedy this hood dimpling problem the factory glued a pad to the underside of the hood right above the thermostat housing on TR4-As. Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 > I recently got the fan extension added to the engine. > It rotates without any grinding sounds, but the paint is > uncomfortably rubbing off on the steering rack. > > How much space should be between these two surfaces? Should be enough to pass a fan belt through there. > If I don't have enough, is it safe to add washers to the > front engine mounts to raise the height?


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Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From fishplate at charter.net Tue Aug 28 13:04:12 2007 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 12:04:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting Message-ID: <1248550149.1188327852927.JavaMail.root@fepweb03> ---- Peter C wrote: > I have been most successful by using a Go-NoGo technique. > If the clearance should be .015" then a .014: will "Go" and > a .016" will "No-Go". Eliminates the "feel" factor. Back when dinosaurs roamed the Earth and I was a VW technician, the go/no-go gauge was a standard tool in my toolbox. I had a handy blade holder that contained the two most popular sizes - no muss, no fuss. See this item: Jeff Scarbrough Spitfires and a TR6 (and a VW, too) From motorcarriage at charter.net Tue Aug 28 13:06:10 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 15:06:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Moron valve adjusting References: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C074DA527@exchange.terra-incognita.net><003a01c7e99d$d0e0a8f0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> <7.0.1.0.2.20070828133429.03660878@nosimport.com> Message-ID: <006601c7e9a6$7f2bfa60$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Hi Peter, Glad there are other Landie victims out there. Good technique you mention, and a very common one too. That still works on a running engine as well. You won't be able to slide a feeler blade into a lesser gap while running. I haven't had to chase down any tappet noises on my Landies with the Cover off yet, so I haven't had the pleasure. Plus they have a hot and cold clearance, if I remember correctly. My TR6 was the first time in a long time I did it because although I had a narrow blade feeler gauge, the stem recessed into the rocker enough to give me a false reading. I started it up and had one distinct noisy tappet. I changed out the Rocker Shaft first too, with a new genuine made in India example before adjusting them. It was pretty noisy before I started, that's why I went for the Aux Oil Feed while I was at it, guess I fell for the hype, but I did set it up so it can be shut off. Are your Landies of the Series persuasion still? Regards, Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter C" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 2:39 PM Subject: Re: [TR] More on valve adjusting > Wayne, > I have a few Landies myself, btw. > > I have been most successful by using a Go-NoGo technique. > If the clearance should be .015" then a .014: will "Go" and > a .016" will "No-Go". Eliminates the "feel" factor. First engine I > ever tried adjusting running was my 60 109 and I looked like an > Alaskan seal after the Valdez. Never again, and no need to, > > Peter C. > ===================== > At 01:04 PM 8/28/2007, Wayne Lee wrote: > >>I too have been adjusting valves with the engine running for years, though >>mostly as a secondary process after the static settings retained a noisy >>clearance somewhere. > _______________________________________________ > motorcarriage at charter.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From peter at nosimport.com Tue Aug 28 13:23:32 2007 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 14:23:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] More on valve adjusting In-Reply-To: <1248550149.1188327852927.JavaMail.root@fepweb03> References: <1248550149.1188327852927.JavaMail.root@fepweb03> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070828142238.0370dbe0@nosimport.com> At 02:04 PM 8/28/2007, fishplate at charter.net wrote: >---- Peter C wrote: > > > I have been most successful by using a Go-NoGo technique. > > If the clearance should be .015" then a .014: will "Go" and > > a .016" will "No-Go". Eliminates the "feel" factor. > >Back when dinosaurs roamed the Earth and I was a VW technician, the >go/no-go gauge was a standard tool in my toolbox. I had a handy >blade holder that contained the two most popular sizes - no muss, no fuss. I'll bet you didn't adjust while running! LOL Peter C >Jeff Scarbrough >Spitfires and a TR6 (and a VW, too) From AMfoto1 at aol.com Tue Aug 28 15:17:57 2007 From: AMfoto1 at aol.com (AMfoto1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 17:17:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 145 Message-ID: Hi Aaron, Have you looked at the hydraulic clutch release kit that Herman at _www.hvdaconversions.com_ (http://www.hvdaconversions.com) offers? You may not be aware of this alternative. Personally, I'd run something like the HVDA kit instead of a Gunst or stock TO bearing, no matter what clutch and pressure plate are in any TR2 through 6. It's more expensive, but this sort of release pretty much solves all the potential problems from linkage thru TO bearing, all in one shot. Much as I like working with TRF, I don't think they offer a hydraulic release kit. HVDA's aren't the only ones, though. There are "universal" Tilton releases available, but some sort of adapter would need to be made up and you'd have to fiddle with shimming it just right. Last time I looked, I think _www.revingtontr.com_ (http://www.revingtontr.com) in England was offering kits based on the Tilton. I know _www.cambridgemotorsport.com_ (http://www.cambridgemotorsport.com) in England also offers a similar kit, not sure what hydraulic release they use. But, both these British suppliers are pricey (partly due to the exchange rate... plus there is the cost of shipping... and in the case of Tilton-based kits I think you'd end up re-importing USA-made parts, adding to the cost). Other performance providers have kits, too. _www.racetorations.co.uk_ (http://www.racetorations.co.uk) in England is a little cheaper than the other two British suppliers, but I don't know what their kit includes. _www.britishframeandengine.com_ (http://www.britishframeandengine.com) in California may be able to help... Ken imports stuff from Darryl at Racetorations, among others? On the East Coast, you might chat with John at Quantum Mechanics. Cheers! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT176092L _http://www.triumphowners.com/640_ (http://www.triumphowners.com/640) (http://www.triumphowners.com/640) ******************************************** While there have been many discussions regarding the TR6 clutch I dont recall this particular question being asked.? According to TRF web site: "Joachim does not recommend using his throw-out bearing with Borg & Beck pressure plates or with any pressure plates having bent or "crooked" end on? spring fingers..." Of course, I purchased a clutch set-up before being aware of this fact and, you guessed it, it is a Borg & Beck, and it has bent fingers.? What has been the experience of the list regarding this set-up?? Has anyone installed a Gunst bearing with a Borg & Beck pressure plate or another brand with bent fingers.? What was the result?? TRF suggest that LUK clutches are best with the Gunst Bearing.? For those running with the Gunst bearing what do you have installed for other components besides B&B and how is your set-up performing? ********************************************** (http://www.triumphowners.com/640) ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Aug 28 10:30:42 2007 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 12:30:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] chrome plating In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200708281230.42287.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 28 August 2007 11:25 am, KingR44916 at aol.com wrote: > anyone know of any platers in new york or new jersey > > I have heard good things about Librandi's. http://www.carchrome.com/beta/librandi/contact.htm Bob From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Aug 28 16:11:52 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 18:11:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 145 Message-ID: In a message dated 8/28/2007 2:18:49 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, AMfoto1 at aol.com writes: Hi Aaron, Have you looked at the hydraulic clutch release kit that Herman at _www.hvdaconversions.com_ (http://www.hvdaconversions.com) offers? You may not be aware of this alternative. Personally, I'd run something like the HVDA kit instead of a Gunst or stock TO bearing, no matter what clutch and pressure plate are in any TR2 through 6. It's more expensive, but this sort of release pretty much solves all the potential problems from linkage thru TO bearing, all in one shot. You should be aware that because Herman van den Akker understands the horrible implications of getting everything together and in the car only to discover a leak, he pressure tests each unit before it ships. Leaks are very very rare, but what if----- Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Aug 28 17:22:08 2007 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 18:22:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Balancing The Fan Message-ID: <000001c7e9ca$412ca920$6901a8c0@idea.com> Listers, Another day, another inquiry... According to the workshop manual, balancing the fan is a matter of positioning guide holes in each piece so that they all line up. (balance piece, through fan, through extension, etc.). The problem is that none of my pieces have these ~1/16" guide holes. I've Googled it, and found nothing, but how does one do this without the holes? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins Kennedale, Texas 1965 Triumph TR4A (CTC 63569LO) http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From fmags at cox.net Tue Aug 28 17:23:41 2007 From: fmags at cox.net (fmags) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 18:23:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Yet Another TR6 Clutch Post Message-ID: <002801c7e9ca$7de8e8b0$321e6644@debo9w9s34m23y> I haven't seen some of the other posts on this, but I am having a clutch problem on my Triumph Stag, which is a similar setup to the TR6. My problem is a ratcheting pedal. With the engine off, the clutch pedal operates nice and smooth, but as soon as the engine is started, when I push in on the pedal it is difficult to push and goes in ratchety steps; same thing on releasing the pedal and the clutch will actually stick with the pedal going dead until is releases on it's own in steps. It is better at higher rpm compared to idle. It is also a Borg and Beck clutch (NOS) and an QH (Quinton Hazell) pressure plate and throwout bearing, all new (NOS) as well as a new throwout bearing carrier/sleeve. Any ideas? Thanks, Frank From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Aug 28 17:29:55 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 23:29:55 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator Conversion -- Brackets Cracking Message-ID: <082820072329.5229.46D4AFF30001F4760000146D22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> I've done the alternator conversion with the Delco 7127 GM alternator, which is common for this conversion. All is well with the electricals. However, vibrations from the engine/alternator have just cracked my second upper bracket, the one that attaches to the water pump. I've used the generator bracket, then a Toyota Tercel bracket, using shims at the waterpump to line up the pulleys. (The bottom of the bracket is tightly cinched down to the engine plate.) Has anyone designed a better bracket for this? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Aug 28 17:36:24 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 23:36:24 +0000 Subject: [TR] Overdrive solenoid Message-ID: <082820072336.2518.46D4B178000A8236000009D622120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> I've driven the TR3A's Type A Overdrive for almost 15,000 miles now, but the OD now fails to engage. Suspecting electrical, I was able to get it to engage intermitently. Now not at all. Tonight I disassembled the transmission housing to get at the solenoid, so I could be sure I was getting actuation. Apparently not. The solenoid was toast, melted on top with the upper wire no longer solidly connected (hence the intermitency). Clearly it overheated. Since this was a brand new solenoid from one of the Big 3, it was (ostensibly) set to correct tolerances from the factory. Indeed, it did work fine for about 15K miles. What did I do wrong? My guess is this thing was drawing the 15 amps all the time, instead of the brief moment to actuate. Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 28 17:54:05 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 16:54:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <082820072336.2518.46D4B178000A8236000009D622120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20070828235327.TGQJ9920.mta10.adelphia.net@randall> > What did I do wrong? My guess is this thing was drawing the > 15 amps all the time, instead of the brief moment to actuate. There are several things that can happen. One of the most commonly overlooked is the "drop" when the solenoid is de-activated. It only has a limited range, and if the plunger drops too far, the solenoid won't pick it back up again. As you know, there is a contact in the top of the solenoid that opens when the plunger reaches the upper end of it's travel, and reduces the current from 15-20 amps down to 1 amp. Some solenoid mounts have an adjustment for 'drop' (which may be missing or misadjusted). Others had only a rubber stop, which may have fallen out or distorted until it lets the solenoid drop too far. If you have the latter type, I suggest you modify it to be adjustable. Another possibility (since the TR lacks a cover over the lever arm) is that grit or a small rock got into the solenoid and blocked the plunger from opening the pull-in contacts. Or, your solenoid may have simply been defective. There's a little plastic button that pushes against the contacts, and it seems that some of them are made of thermoplastic that gets soft and distorts when it gets hot. Or maybe they just aren't hard enough to withstand the repeated pounding from the plunger, I don't know. But I've taken one out of a burned solenoid that was simply too short to open the contacts. My suggestion is to add a fuse to the OD solenoid circuit, sized so that it will blow if the cutout contacts don't open quickly. That won't fix the problem obviously, but at least it will only cost you a 50 cent fuse instead of a $150 solenoid to learn you have a problem. I used a MDL 8 fuse (which is an 8 amp slow-blow), just because I had a case of them on hand; but I believe even a 5 amp (American) standard blow would work. I also added a diode across the relay contacts, which seems to make them last longer. Randall From kentech0822 at verizon.net Tue Aug 28 18:11:41 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 20:11:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002901c7e9d1$2d029890$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> The TR4A fan extension should have a concave rounded groove about one inch across ground in it (from the factory) to provide clearance. Perhaps you fitted a TR4 fan extension which is fatter. PeterK > I recently got the fan extension added to the engine. > It rotates without any grinding sounds, but the paint is uncomfortably > rubbing off on the steering rack. > > How much space should be between these two surfaces? Should be enough to pass a fan belt through there. > If I don't have enough, is it safe to add washers to the front engine > mounts to raise the height?


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Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Aug 28 19:07:32 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 21:07:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins Message-ID: OK, Try this on for size. Ugly, the 76 VE TR7 has some gremlins. I was followed home from lunch today by a Police Type Car for several miles. He let me go for some reason but was probably just as confused as I. Maybe he was just trying to make a point, like Hey Dude you need to work on this, by filling my mirrors for an extended time. The left side turn signal has issues. I knew this so Beverly and I attempted to check it out tonight. Wow, if you depress the brake with the left turn signal on the back up lights come on and everything else is dark. If the tail lights are on and left turn signal is on really weird stuff occurs, right side is on, but left side goes dark and back up lights shine. Really very weird and not complete here. I actually saw the left brake light and turn signal alternate flashes at some point. This is the car that also shines the oil light at all times for no apparent reason. Big time in need but understanding that this is not an easy one. Willing to do recommended testing of course. Regards, Darrell PS: Ugly is white Victory Edition TR7, all original and Museum Quality. 35K on the clock. I have restored what was needed but now have found that although she looks cool she is not good for much driving. I still love her. She is worth the effort to someone. ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From DLylis at aol.com Tue Aug 28 19:15:20 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 21:15:20 EDT Subject: [TR] Loud timing chain Message-ID: In a message dated 8/27/2007 1:16:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, guy at genfiniti.com writes: Just a thought... But could this be causes by the tensioner being incorrectly oriented? How can the tensioner be incorrectly oriented? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Aug 28 19:23:30 2007 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 21:23:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator Conversion -- Brackets Cracking References: <082820072329.5229.46D4AFF30001F4760000146D22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000e01c7e9db$35ae8d50$b7a93b44@DCS78M81> Terry, I used the original "C" shaped bracket on the bottom. I used a long bolt with capture nuts on either side of the two mounting points. Then the upper "adjuster" bracket has little tension. I've only got 400 or so miles on mine, but the bottom should be really tied down - I can't adjust the belt without removing tension from the bottom bolt. I could sent a picture if you want...though it might take a day or two. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 7:29 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator Conversion -- Brackets Cracking > I've done the alternator conversion with the Delco 7127 GM alternator, > which is common for this conversion. All is well with the electricals. > However, vibrations from the engine/alternator have just cracked my second > upper bracket, the one that attaches to the water pump. I've used the > generator bracket, then a Toyota Tercel bracket, using shims at the > waterpump to line up the pulleys. (The bottom of the bracket is tightly > cinched down to the engine plate.) > Has anyone designed a better bracket for this? > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > tfansher at comcast.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Tue Aug 28 19:27:25 2007 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 18:27:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Uh-Ohhhh! Message-ID: <337265.5689.qm@web36214.mail.mud.yahoo.com> It's been a few days since I ventured out in the TR6. I had been noticing a slight click through the clutch pedal when I shifted gears. It is standard procedure for me to check the fluid resivoir before I take her out. Tonight I jumped in and -boink! - the clutch pedal went to the floor. It came back, thanks to the spring. Then I checked the fluid and it was "way low", like3" down the hole. Filled her up and pumped a few times but it wasn't coming along. So, I guess it's time for dirty hands. We have no way of knowing if it is the master or slave cylinder from my description do we? As I recall, new cylinders are pretty inexpensive. Collective wisdom? Should I rebuild or replace? ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469 From ebartle at hbci.com Tue Aug 28 20:22:14 2007 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 21:22:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Overdrive Relay Message-ID: <20070828212214.oymof2uvgkok8k8w@webmail.hbci.com> I am installing a new harness in my TR3A after a rebuild and don't know where to locate the overdrive relay. Any help would be appreciated Eric From kentech0822 at verizon.net Tue Aug 28 21:12:43 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 23:12:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A In-Reply-To: <01ba01c7e9d3$7e6bbe30$6701a8c0@toshibauser> References: <002901c7e9d1$2d029890$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> <01ba01c7e9d3$7e6bbe30$6701a8c0@toshibauser> Message-ID: <003301c7e9ea$779c75b0$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> If you look in Williams book, "How to Restore a TR4&TR4A" page 101 Figure 7-14-34, there is a picture of this fan extension. "This is a TR4/4A extension, earlier cars have a slightly different one." My 4A is CT667xx and has this fan extension, also my later parts car has it. It is much narrower as well as groovy. Although this picture also shows a crank bolt for a hand crank, so clearly pre 4A. Pic also on next page. PeterK -----Original Message----- From: Gerald Van Vlack [mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 8:28 PM To: Kentech HomeTech; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A Gee I've owned my TR4A since 1969 and it doesn't have that groove you are speaking about. Never seen one of those. I have shimmed the mounts however to the extent that the mounting bolts will allow. You need to work on both sides of the mount to get much height improvement. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kentech HomeTech" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 8:11 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A > The TR4A fan extension should have a concave rounded groove about one > inch across ground in it (from the factory) to provide clearance. > Perhaps you fitted a TR4 fan extension which is fatter. > > PeterK > > > I recently got the fan extension added to the engine. > > It rotates without any grinding sounds, but the paint is > > uncomfortably rubbing off on the steering rack. > > > > How much space should be between these two surfaces? > > Should be enough to pass a fan belt through there. > > > If I don't have enough, is it safe to add washers to the front > > engine mounts to raise the height? From flashtr3 at cox.net Tue Aug 28 21:28:01 2007 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 20:28:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Overdrive Relay References: <20070828212214.oymof2uvgkok8k8w@webmail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <005501c7e9ec$9ac369c0$9f54fd18@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I installed my overdrive relay for the TR3 on the mounting bracket (left side) for the heater core. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Bartleson" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 7:22 PM Subject: [TR] Overdrive Relay >I am installing a new harness in my TR3A after a rebuild and don't > know where to locate the overdrive relay. Any help would be appreciated > > Eric > _______________________________________________ > flashtr3 at cox.net > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue Aug 28 21:38:17 2007 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 23:38:17 EDT Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins Message-ID: In a message dated 8/28/2007 9:08:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: The left side turn signal has issues. I knew this so Beverly and I attempted to check it out tonight. Wow, if you depress the brake with the left turn signal on the back up lights come on and everything else is dark. If the tail lights are on and left turn signal is on really weird stuff occurs, right side is on, but left side goes dark and back up lights shine. Really very weird and not complete here. I actually saw the left brake light and turn signal alternate flashes at some point. This is the car that also shines the oil light at all times for no apparent reason. ==AM== First thing I'd check is any and all grounding on the rear lamps! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 28 21:41:40 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 20:41:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Overdrive Relay In-Reply-To: <20070828212214.oymof2uvgkok8k8w@webmail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <20070829034102.GEFQ14324.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > I am installing a new harness in my TR3A after a rebuild and > don't know where to locate the overdrive relay. Any help > would be appreciated The original location was on the battery box inside the car, near the lower LH corner. Check your factory manual, there are instructions in there for mounting it. However, the main harness didn't include the OD wiring. It had it's own sub-harnesses. Basically just two wires from the relay to the gearbox, and two wires to the dash, plus a 5th wire that ran from the starter pushbutton to the OD switch on the dash. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 28 21:49:50 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 20:49:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Uh-Ohhhh! In-Reply-To: <337265.5689.qm@web36214.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20070829034912.UXVW16499.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > We have no way of knowing if it is the master or slave > cylinder from my description do we? Nope. Might even be a busted line (although unlikely). > As I recall, new cylinders are pretty inexpensive. > Collective wisdom? Should I rebuild or replace? My personal preference would be to rebuild, if the cylinders are in good shape (bores smooth). But I don't know any reason that's better, unless maybe the replacement cylinders look different than the originals did. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Aug 28 21:59:55 2007 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 23:59:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Uh-Ohhhh! In-Reply-To: <20070829034912.UXVW16499.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> References: <337265.5689.qm@web36214.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <46D4B6FB.10108.63AC9C@localhost> On 28 Aug 2007 at 20:49, Randall wrote: > > We have no way of knowing if it is the master or slave > > cylinder from my description do we? If your shoes are getting wet it is the master cylinder. If the fluif level is dropping and you can't see fluif anywhere, it is probably the slave cylinder. And if you have no pedal pressure or clutch disengagement but the fluif level is not dropping, it is probably the master cylinder. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.10/976 - Release Date: 8/27/2007 6:20 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 28 22:03:59 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 21:03:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070829040321.DIQU16016.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Wow, if you > depress the brake with the left turn signal on the back up > lights come on and everything else is dark. Sounds like a classic bad ground; but I think you have multiple problems going on, and some of them may be in the cockpit. I would start by getting a good, solid ground reference at the rear (run a wire from the battery negative post if you have to), then blocking the brake pedal down, turning on the left turn signal, and checking exactly what is happening right at the bulb. Best I can tell from my Haynes, the bulbs are all mounted in the same assembly, which is supposed to be grounded. If the assembly isn't grounded, the current may flow backwards through the reverse lamp and to ground in the other assembly. Looks like the bulb holders ground to the assembly with just a spring clip, too; which might not be making good contact. Dunno about TR7 bulb holders, but the holders used on TR6 and Stag have lousy ground connections inside the holder, too. Every single one was bad on the first Stag. The other Stag has already had them replaced at least once, and still had two that didn't work right. Randall From dkspence at telus.net Tue Aug 28 23:01:40 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 23:01:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Uh-Ohhhh! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If it's wet below the master, that's where your problem is. If it's wet below the slave then it is at fault. some people believe it is best to replace both at the same time. You would have to examine the bores for any pitting etc to evaluate whether to rebuild or replace. On Aug 28, 2007, at 9:39 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: John Summers > Date: August 28, 2007 7:27:25 PM MDT (CA) > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Uh-Ohhhh! > > > It's been a few days since I ventured out in the TR6. > I had been noticing a slight click through the clutch > pedal when I shifted gears. > It is standard procedure for me to check the fluid > resivoir before I take her out. Tonight I jumped in > and -boink! - the clutch pedal went to the floor. It > came back, thanks to the spring. Then I checked the > fluid and it was "way low", like3" down the hole. > Filled her up and pumped a few times but it wasn't > coming along. > So, I guess it's time for dirty hands. > We have no way of knowing if it is the master or slave > cylinder from my description do we? > As I recall, new cylinders are pretty inexpensive. > Collective wisdom? Should I rebuild or replace? From CarlSereda at aol.com Tue Aug 28 23:14:07 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 01:14:07 EDT Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A Message-ID: I seen a lot of junk yard TR4As and whenever I saw a fan extension with a groove in it - it seemed 'rubbed raw' ie; missing paint.. sometimes with torque I imagined it rubbed the steering rack tube as engine twisted.. Then again is there a seperate part number for a late TR4A fan extension?.. TR4 version is p.n. 128318.. I don't have a TR4A parts cat. Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Gee I've owned my TR4A since 1969 and it doesn't have that groove you are speaking about. Never seen one of those. ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From CarlSereda at aol.com Tue Aug 28 23:30:53 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 01:30:53 EDT Subject: [TR] Overdrive solenoid Message-ID: That's something I could do Randall, can you tell me what diode and which contacts to connect? regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 I also added a diode across the relay contacts, which seems to make them last longer. ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From DLylis at aol.com Wed Aug 29 05:40:55 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 07:40:55 EDT Subject: [TR] Timing chainwheels TR3A Message-ID: My crank chainwheel stands .0045" proud of the cam chainwheel when aligned with a straightedge. (new parts) This does not include the use of any crank shims. Is it OK to lap the rear surface of the chainwheel or is this w/in tolerance? The cam chainwheel runs out .002 - .003" but the original ran out .015" so I am guessing that I am OK. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 29 06:01:11 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 08:01:11 EDT Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins Message-ID: In a message dated 8/28/2007 8:08:18 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > The left side turn signal has issues. I knew this so Beverly and I > attempted > to check it out tonight. Wow, if you depress the brake with the left turn > signal on the back up lights come on and everything else is dark. If the > tail > lights are on and left turn signal is on really weird stuff occurs, right > side is on, but left side goes dark and back up lights shine. Really very > weird and not complete here. I actually saw the left brake light and turn > signal > alternate flashes at some point. This is the car that also shines the oil > light at all times for no apparent reason. > Big time in need but understanding that this is not an easy one. Willing to > > do recommended testing of course. > Darrell, this is the classical symptom of a bad ground on that side. The current wants to return to ground but that path is blocked so it finds another path through the back up light to the back up light on the other side and then to ground. Since that is not a low resistance ground weird things happen. Check the ground on that side and see if it clears up. Cheers Dave From kentech0822 at verizon.net Wed Aug 29 06:28:58 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 08:28:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator Conversion -- Brackets Cracking In-Reply-To: <082820072329.5229.46D4AFF30001F4760000146D22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <082820072329.5229.46D4AFF30001F4760000146D22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001501c7ea38$2cd1e5d0$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> Terry, I have the same problem on my 3A. First time the bolt sheared in the water pump housing, the upper link (adjustment bracket) cracked around the mounting hole. It seemed to pick up a nasty vibration a specific rpms that I observed while I watched it while I rev'ed the engine. At first I had the bottom mount fixed using two 3/8" bolts, a grade 5 coupler in between, and jamb nuts; this would hold bottom mount solid but allow free swing of the alternator at the bottom. That's when the bolt sheared. Next I replaced this with a 7" 3/8" bolt like so many others have done with success. That's when the upper link broke. This one also required r & r of the generator bracket on the block to fit the long bolt. Now I am using a long stud threaded on both ends with nylocs (really no different from the long bolt but easier to r&r) AND a piece of tubing between the ears of the generator bracket so I can cinch the bottom mount TIGHT so the alternator will not even pivot without loosening the nuts. This SOLID MOUNT seems to have cleared up the problem. Also make sure that the top link is perfectly inline and adjust with spacers and/or washers to get it right. Now I see only very little vibration when I rev the engine, almost nil. Still a little gun shy about long trips but time will tell. Hope this works for you too, PeterK -----Original Message----- From: terryrs at comcast.net [mailto:terryrs at comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 7:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Alternator Conversion -- Brackets Cracking I've done the alternator conversion with the Delco 7127 GM alternator, which is common for this conversion. All is well with the electricals. However, vibrations from the engine/alternator have just cracked my second upper bracket, the one that attaches to the water pump. I've used the generator bracket, then a Toyota Tercel bracket, using shims at the waterpump to line up the pulleys. (The bottom of the bracket is tightly cinched down to the engine plate.) Has anyone designed a better bracket for this? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From N197TR4 at cs.com Wed Aug 29 06:31:22 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 08:31:22 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 1, Issue 147 Message-ID: > I've done the alternator conversion with the Delco 7127 GM alternator, > which is common for this conversion. All is well with the electricals. > However, vibrations from the engine/alternator have just cracked my second > upper bracket, the one that attaches to the water pump. I've used the > generator bracket, then a Toyota Tercel bracket, using shims at the > waterpump to line up the pulleys. (The bottom of the bracket is tightly > cinched down to the engine plate.) > Has anyone designed a better bracket for this? > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire Terry, I have the stock upper bracket in place now for about 10 years. (Vintage Race TR4) But, I have an additional support bracket that comes off the front of the alternator and attaches to one of the timing cover capscrews. If nothing else it dampens the vibrations....sounds like it was the right thing to do. But your failures seem extraordinary. Joe From gprtech at frontiernet.net Wed Aug 29 06:42:09 2007 From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 08:42:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Restoration expert stole my car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46D569A1.50508@frontiernet.net> The car was a TR3, but apparently the owner isn't giving out the name of the "restorer". George Richardson 1957 Triumph TR3 - TS15559L http://www.key-men.com/triumph 1975 Triumph TR6 - Undergoing restoration 1972 Triumph Stag - Daily Driver Key Men: Keys for Classics - http://www.key-men.com DLylis at aol.com wrote: >Have I missed the guys name and description of the car? > >David Lylis >69 TR6 CC26160L >60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > >************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at >http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour >_______________________________________________ >gprtech at frontiernet.net > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > >Triumphs mailing list >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From kentech0822 at verizon.net Wed Aug 29 07:13:04 2007 From: kentech0822 at verizon.net (Kentech HomeTech) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 09:13:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c7ea3e$55b05580$2601a8c0@KENTECHHP> Time for pictures: http://mysite.verizon.net/kentech0822/triumph/fans/fan_extensions.jpg -----Original Message----- From: CarlSereda at aol.com [mailto:CarlSereda at aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 1:14 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A I seen a lot of junk yard TR4As and whenever I saw a fan extension with a groove in it - it seemed 'rubbed raw' ie; missing paint.. sometimes with torque I imagined it rubbed the steering rack tube as engine twisted.. Then again is there a seperate part number for a late TR4A fan extension?.. TR4 version is p.n. 128318.. I don't have a TR4A parts cat. Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Gee I've owned my TR4A since 1969 and it doesn't have that groove you are speaking about. Never seen one of those. ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Aug 29 08:02:04 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:02:04 EDT Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins Message-ID: In a message dated 8/29/2007 7:02:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: > Darrell, this is the classical symptom of a bad ground on that side. Duh, I should have known that! I wiggled the ground wire but that had no effect. I also replaced the flasher canister. I will check the grounds out thoroughly before going crazy. The bulb holders are a little loose but I suspect the whole light assembly must not be grounding to the body. Thanks, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 29 09:51:30 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 08:51:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Timing chainwheels TR3A In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070829155052.HJQM14324.mta13.adelphia.net@randall> > My crank chainwheel stands .0045" proud of the cam chainwheel > when aligned with a straightedge. (new parts) This does not > include the use of any crank shims. Is it OK to lap the > rear surface of the chainwheel or is this w/in tolerance? > The cam chainwheel runs out .002 - .003" but the original ran > out .015" so I am guessing that I am OK. How much endplay is there on the cam & crank ? Are you checking alignment with them both pushed all the way back ? Is the front cam bearing new ? Are you sure the crank chainwheel is seated firmly against it's shoulder ? .0045" probably isn't enough misalignment to worry about, but it seems odd to me, and it certainly wouldn't hurt to remove it. Just be sure it's really there, first. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 29 10:56:42 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:56:42 EDT Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins Message-ID: In a message dated 8/29/2007 9:02:04 AM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > > >> Darrell, this is the classical symptom of a bad ground on that side. > > Duh, I should have known that! I wiggled the ground wire but that had no > effect. I also replaced the flasher canister. I will check the grounds out > thoroughly before going crazy. The bulb holders are a little loose but I > suspect the whole light assembly must not be grounding to the body. > Thanks, > Darrell > The behaviour suggests the bulbs are grounding to the lamp body but the lamp body is not grounding to the chassis. Probably a little rust. (RUST?!!! WHAT RUST?!!!) ;-) Dave From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Aug 29 11:47:11 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 13:47:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3, TR4, TR4A crankshaft Message-ID: <000701c7ea64$a0b4c860$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Anyone out there have a good (as in no cracks) crankshaft for sale? Please contact me off list. Ed Woods From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Aug 29 12:13:42 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 14:13:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thread Sealant Recommendation Message-ID: <000801c7ea68$56ffede0$210110ac@bobspc> OK, I've got to screw a Spal fan temp sensor into an aluminum bung and Spal says NOT to use Teflon tape. I also have a petcock and an filler neck overflow fitting also going into aluminum bungs. All bungs are NPT fittings. So two questions: do I even need any sealant with NPT threads and, If I do, what's the recommendation? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.10/977 - Release Date: 8/28/2007 4:29 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 29 12:52:33 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 11:52:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thread Sealant Recommendation In-Reply-To: <000801c7ea68$56ffede0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20070829185154.QDMW16499.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> > OK, I've got to screw a Spal fan temp sensor into an aluminum > bung and Spal says NOT to use Teflon tape. I also have a > petcock and an filler neck overflow fitting also going into > aluminum bungs. All bungs are NPT fittings. > So two questions: do I even need any sealant with NPT threads > and, If I do, what's the recommendation? Do they say why not to use Teflon tape ? I would probably use PTFE sealing compound, which is similar but cannot form 'strings' of tape to cause problems elsewhere. I've used it on both brass and steel NPT into aluminum, and it seems to work fine. It squeezes out of the tight places easily, so I don't see how it could cause problems with either electrical or thermal conductivity. If there is a some reason to avoid PTFE/Teflon, then I'd probably use Hylomar. It might seal with nothing on it, but my experience is that it's easier to seal (meaning less torque required) and less likely to start leaking in the future, if you use something. Randall From jay_welch at juno.com Wed Aug 29 13:05:45 2007 From: jay_welch at juno.com (Jay Welch) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 19:05:45 GMT Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity Message-ID: <20070829.150545.886.1@webmail06.lax.untd.com> I just went through this with my TR6. I removed the air cleaner assembly for some maintenance and didn't bother to put it back on right away. A couple of days later, I was trying to put them on but no go....the motor mounts are sagging so badly that it won't go on. The air cleaner was holding the engine up :-). I've been busy and didn't get to fixing it right away but did drive it a it a couple of times locally. As I pulled into the into the driveway I hear this deep rapping noise. It sounded like internals. Plenty of oil and oil pressure...still "rapping". But now I can feel it in the steering column too. The engine had dropped more and the slight wobble of the fan extension was rubbing on the steering rack and sounding like a rhythmic lower end knock. I changed them over the weekend and there is now approximately 3/4" to 1" clearance between the fan extension and the steering rack. The right side was completely detached from the metal mount and slid all the way down. Jay in MA Member CCBCC ============== From: CarlSereda at aol.com [mailto:CarlSereda at aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 1:14 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A I seen a lot of junk yard TR4As and whenever I saw a fan extension with a groove in it - it seemed 'rubbed raw' ie; missing paint.. sometimes with torque I imagined it rubbed the steering rack tube as engine twisted.. Then again is there a seperate part number for a late TR4A fan extension?.. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Aug 29 13:17:01 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 15:17:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thread Sealant Recommendation In-Reply-To: <20070829185154.QDMW16499.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> References: <000801c7ea68$56ffede0$210110ac@bobspc> <20070829185154.QDMW16499.mta16.adelphia.net@randall> Message-ID: <000b01c7ea71$30273b70$210110ac@bobspc> The Spal Fan directions say "Do not use Teflon tape on the sensor as it can cause poor electrical contact and incorrect temperature readings" I've got some Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant (http://tinyurl.com/3yvo2v). It sounds like that should work. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 2:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Thread Sealant Recommendation > OK, I've got to screw a Spal fan temp sensor into an aluminum bung and > Spal says NOT to use Teflon tape. I also have a petcock and an filler > neck overflow fitting also going into aluminum bungs. All bungs are > NPT fittings. > So two questions: do I even need any sealant with NPT threads and, If > I do, what's the recommendation? Do they say why not to use Teflon tape ? I would probably use PTFE sealing compound, which is similar but cannot form 'strings' of tape to cause problems elsewhere. I've used it on both brass and steel NPT into aluminum, and it seems to work fine. It squeezes out of the tight places easily, so I don't see how it could cause problems with either electrical or thermal conductivity. If there is a some reason to avoid PTFE/Teflon, then I'd probably use Hylomar. It might seal with nothing on it, but my experience is that it's easier to seal (meaning less torque required) and less likely to start leaking in the future, if you use something. Randall _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.10/977 - Release Date: 8/28/2007 4:29 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.10/977 - Release Date: 8/28/2007 4:29 PM From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Wed Aug 29 14:40:26 2007 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:40:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] LABOR DAY BRITISH CAR TOUR STARTING IN MALIBU, CA Message-ID: ***************************************************** Fun SoCal Event! - Labor Day Labor Day is coming! That means it's time to get your British classic tuned up in preparation for the 2007 All British Labor Day Run. September 3, 2007 ~ Malibu, California This is the third and final holiday run for the season, so don't miss out! The Labor Day Run caters to those who love twisty canyon roads, and is definitely not for anyone who suffers car sickness. The route follows some of the most fun sports car roads in the Santa Monica mountains, but is perfectly suitable for sedans or slower drivers as well. We will meet at the Malibu Colony Plaza located at 23841 West Malibu Road, at the southwest corner of Pacific Coast Highway and Webb Way, approximately 12 miles northwest from where I-10 t runs into PCH. Meeting time is 8:45 AM with rollout at 9:30 AM. This is an unorganized event. Everyone is welcome ! There is a restaurant (Coogie9s) in the plaza for breakfast and a Starbucks for coffee and snacks, but you may want to call ahead to make sure they will be open on the holiday. Fuel is expensive in Malib so yo may want to fill p a few miles before yo arrive. There is little fuel available on the driving route unless yoo take a detour into town. There also is a serious lack of restrooms along this route. There is no shortage of bushes but not much civilization! Your best bet for an actual toilet is on Pacific Coast Highway near Las Flores Canyon Road. Keep this in mind when you9re ordering that second cup of coffee. For anyone coming from out of the area, there is a nice "Good Night Inn" in Calabasas, ten minutes from Malibu. Rates are reasonable (around $60) with AAA discounts. Details and a printable route sheet can be found here: http://www.socalbritishmotoring.com/viewtopic.php?t=250 Photos from previous events can be viewed at: http://www.socalbritishmotoring.com/2006labordayrun/ See you there! mail at socalbritishmotoring.com ****************************************************** From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Aug 29 14:34:40 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 14:34:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46D5D860.1030902@tscusa.org> TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > The left side turn signal has issues. I knew this so Beverly and I attempted > to check it out tonight. Wow, if you depress the brake with the left turn > signal on the back up lights come on and everything else is dark. If the tail > lights are on and left turn signal is on really weird stuff occurs, right > side is on, but left side goes dark and back up lights shine. Really very > weird and not complete here. I actually saw the left brake light and turn signal > alternate flashes at some point. This is the car that also shines the oil > light at all times for no apparent reason. > Big time in need but understanding that this is not an easy one. Willing to > do recommended testing of course. > Regards, > Darrell > > Darrell, Pull the front and rear turn signal bulbs. If I recall correctly, the bulbs are dual filament. When they break across each other, weird things happen. Also check all your grounds. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From DLylis at aol.com Wed Aug 29 15:29:57 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 17:29:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Timing chainwheels TR3A Message-ID: In a message dated 8/29/2007 10:51:08 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: How much endplay is there on the cam & crank ? Are you checking alignment with them both pushed all the way back ? Is the front cam bearing new ? Are you sure the crank chainwheel is seated firmly against it's shoulder ? Crank end float .006" which is at the upper limit of acceptable but still acceptable. Checked with a dial indicator Cam endfloat is .005" should be .003 - .0075" Checked with a dial indicator Front cam bearing is used but not used by me as my old one was scored. It is in very good shape. I will seat everybody firmly and check again but I pushed them both back as much as I could. Thanks, as always David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From TOMJOANNMI at aol.com Wed Aug 29 16:25:19 2007 From: TOMJOANNMI at aol.com (TOMJOANNMI at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:25:19 EDT Subject: [TR] Rear hub rebuild needed Message-ID: I was just about ready to get my 75 TR6 back on the road after a long and expensive renovation and my Rt rear hub is making noise. The mechanic says it needs new bearings. I believe this is a job left to experts, so I'm looking for recommendations for a rebuilder. I know that TRF rebuilds hubs, but their turnaround time on the diff hubs they rebuilt for me was at least 2 months. I would like to get some use out of the car before the snow flies. Any suggestions? Should I get both rebuilt? Can the other side be far behind? I don't think it's making noise yet. Tom Miller 75 TR6 ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Aug 29 16:47:45 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:47:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3, TR4, TR4A crankshaft References: <000701c7ea64$a0b4c860$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <003201c7ea8e$9d8e6900$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Found a crankshaft. Thank you List! Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 1:47 PM Subject: [TR] TR3, TR4, TR4A crankshaft > Anyone out there have a good (as in no cracks) crankshaft for sale? Please > contact me off list. > > Ed Woods From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Aug 29 17:02:09 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 19:02:09 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3, TR4, TR4A crankshaft Message-ID: Great! Ed, can you please tell us what a good used crankshaft sells for now? Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Aug 29 17:46:35 2007 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 23:46:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] Overdrive solenoid Message-ID: <082920072346.19430.46D6055B00035E6200004BE622165258069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Yet another Randall e-mail that I've printed out and stuck in my file of tricks. Have installed the 5 amp American standard blow. (Now there's a phrase I confess I've never used before!) Thank you Randall. Terry > > What did I do wrong? My guess is this thing was drawing the > > 15 amps all the time, instead of the brief moment to actuate. > > There are several things that can happen. One of the most commonly > overlooked is the "drop" when the solenoid is de-activated. It only has a > limited range, and if the plunger drops too far, the solenoid won't pick it > back up again. As you know, there is a contact in the top of the solenoid > that opens when the plunger reaches the upper end of it's travel, and > reduces the current from 15-20 amps down to 1 amp. > Some solenoid mounts have an adjustment for 'drop' (which may be missing or > misadjusted). Others had only a rubber stop, which may have fallen out or > distorted until it lets the solenoid drop too far. If you have the latter > type, I suggest you modify it to be adjustable. > > Another possibility (since the TR lacks a cover over the lever arm) is that > grit or a small rock got into the solenoid and blocked the plunger from > opening the pull-in contacts. > > Or, your solenoid may have simply been defective. There's a little plastic > button that pushes against the contacts, and it seems that some of them are > made of thermoplastic that gets soft and distorts when it gets hot. Or > maybe they just aren't hard enough to withstand the repeated pounding from > the plunger, I don't know. But I've taken one out of a burned solenoid that > was simply too short to open the contacts. > > My suggestion is to add a fuse to the OD solenoid circuit, sized so that it > will blow if the cutout contacts don't open quickly. That won't fix the > problem obviously, but at least it will only cost you a 50 cent fuse instead > of a $150 solenoid to learn you have a problem. I used a MDL 8 fuse (which > is an 8 amp slow-blow), just because I had a case of them on hand; but I > believe even a 5 amp (American) standard blow would work. I also added a > diode across the relay contacts, which seems to make them last longer. > > Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Aug 29 18:02:13 2007 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 20:02:13 EDT Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins Message-ID: In a message dated 8/29/2007 12:57:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: (RUST?!!! WHAT RUST?!!!) Ugly has very little RUST if ANY! Just a little in the bottom of the doors effecting the original paint. OK, hooked up a jumper cable from the left tail light housing to the exhaust pipe and all lighting functions then appear to operate normally. Take off the cable and we go back to rear end Disco Lights! What would be next? Remove the whole light assembly? Need a Wedge Type Guy here. Not seeing any real "Ground Connections" to clean up. Not interested in tearing Ugly's whole rear end up unless it is required. Thanks a Bunch, Darrell ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Aug 29 18:20:21 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 20:20:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Rear hub rebuild needed Message-ID: I know a Brit gear man in California (Stockton) who does a nice job, Duane Carlson.. rebuilt my brother's TR4-A halfshaft for about $175 in a couple weeks.. you can email him at: duane247 at comcast.net regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----------------------- I was just about ready to get my 75 TR6 back on the road after a long and expensive renovation and my Rt rear hub is making noise. The mechanic says it needs new bearings. I believe this is a job left to experts, so I'm looking for recommendations for a rebuilder. I know that TRF rebuilds hubs, but their turnaround time on the diff hubs they rebuilt for me was at least 2 months. I would like to get some use out of the car before the snow flies. Any suggestions? Should I get both rebuilt? Can the other side be far behind? I don't think it's making noise yet. Tom Miller 75 TR6 ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Aug 29 18:23:44 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 20:23:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3, TR4, TR4A crankshaft References: Message-ID: <006601c7ea9c$06ac2050$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> They can be had for around $125 crack checked + shipping. ----- Original Message ----- From: MMoore8425 at aol.com To: fogbro1 at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 7:02 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3, TR4, TR4A crankshaft Great! Ed, can you please tell us what a good used crankshaft sells for now? Mike Moore ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL.com. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.10/976 - Release Date: 8/27/2007 6:20 PM From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Aug 29 19:24:11 2007 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 21:24:11 EDT Subject: [TR] Fan Extension and Steering Rack Proximity - A Message-ID: Although your TR3/4/4A extension comparison picture looks convincing it's still hard to believe TR4As came with a grooved extension from the factory - every 'grooved' TR4/4A fan extension I've seen is grooved to a different depth (including your Roger Williams reference - so slight to even make a difference). Your's is certainly one of the most dangerous looking deep cuts I've ever seen. If I'm wrong - I certainly like to learn new things. I would take calipers and check your wall thickness of your casting - my smooth one is only about 1/4" thick in that area - I imagine your's is getting dangerously thin - and ready to collapse, under high torquing of a crank bolt. Please let me know what you find! Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Time for pictures: http://mysite.verizon.net/kentech0822/triumph/fans/fan_extensions.jpg -----Original Message----- From: CarlSereda at aol.com [mailto:CarlSereda at aol.com] I've seen a lot of junk yard TR4As and whenever I saw a fan extension with a groove in it - it seemed 'rubbed raw' ie; missing paint..


**************************************
Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From 308gtsi at adelphia.net Wed Aug 29 21:56:13 2007 From: 308gtsi at adelphia.net (Brian Induni) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 20:56:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] loud timing chain Message-ID: <000901c7eab9$b600e5f0$0801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Hi all, Thought I'd write back with some new info on my "loud timing chain". First, thanks for all the feedback and potential causes of this noise! Here's the solution: Today I was tuning the engine, for the first time since firing it up. I had set the timing to exact TDC (well, real close!) and was having a hard time adjusting the carbs. So out came the timing light and shop manual to find the correct timing of 4 degrees BTDC. I set the timing, and voila! No more noise! I adjusted the carbs - real easy when the timing is set correctly - closed the hood and whet tearing down the road in a wonderful throaty growl of dual pipe stainless exhaust and no clatter! No idea if this makes sense, but thought I'd share my experience. Brian 1967 TR4a, finished and showing this weekend at the Portland ABFM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 29 22:59:03 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 21:59:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070830045824.UMOZ7790.mta9.adelphia.net@randall> > Not seeing any real "Ground Connections" to clean > up. So add some ! I've not worked on a TR7 much, but I've yet to meet a Triumph that couldn't be improved by some extra ground wires. Randall From ebartle at hbci.com Thu Aug 30 04:15:56 2007 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 05:15:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Control Head for TR3 and Steering Wheel question Message-ID: <20070830101637.704701C28F@mail.hbci.com> I am looking for a used control head (steering wheel) for my TR3. I have the adjustable steering shaft. Also, what are some suggestions for a replacement steering wheel. Mine is in bad shape. Eric From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Aug 30 04:27:20 2007 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 06:27:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Control Head for TR3 and Steering Wheel question In-Reply-To: <20070830101637.704701C28F@mail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <000001c7eaf0$58a02790$33683c18@DCH6RFC1> My suggestion is to get a rack and pinion conversion and they you have a choice of smaller, more sporty and aesthetically pleasing wheels (there are even some Triumph ones). I have a used control head (horn and turn signal) for parts if you need it. Andrew Uprichard 62 TR3B 59 TR3A -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Bartleson Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 6:16 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Control Head for TR3 and Steering Wheel question I am looking for a used control head (steering wheel) for my TR3. I have the adjustable steering shaft. Also, what are some suggestions for a replacement steering wheel. Mine is in bad shape. Eric This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 30 05:41:51 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 07:41:51 EDT Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins Message-ID: In a message dated 8/29/2007 7:02:13 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > OK, hooked up a jumper cable from the left tail light housing to the > exhaust pipe and all lighting functions then appear to operate normally. Take off > the cable and we go back to rear end Disco Lights! What would be next? > Remove the whole light assembly? Need a Wedge Type Guy here. Not seeing any real > "Ground Connections" to clean up. Not interested in tearing Ugly's whole > rear end up unless it is required. > You need to duplicate what you just did, connect a ground wire from the lamp assembly to chassis ground. Use one of the mounting studs on the lamp and run to a ground screw. Get some crimp type ring terminals. You should be able to avoid removing the lamp housing from the car which may be an ugly proposition considering the gasket has been in place for over 30 years. Dave From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Aug 30 06:21:16 2007 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 08:21:16 EDT Subject: [TR] Control Head for TR3 and Steering Wheel question Message-ID: In a message dated 8/30/2007 3:18:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ebartle at hbci.com writes: Also, what are some suggestions for a replacement steering wheel. Mine is in bad shape. If you want to repair the wheel, you can grind out (V groove) all the cracks. Use PC-7 (epoxy from hardware store-comes in two cans). Fill the damaged portion above the surface.As it dries, it gets to the consistency of wood, when it does, you can sand it smooth without much effort.Sand the entire wheel and paint with black urethane gloss paint. (This is what the Eastwood steering wheel repair kit says-and it works great!) Mike Moore ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From KingR44916 at aol.com Thu Aug 30 06:23:58 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 08:23:58 EDT Subject: [TR] rear deck Message-ID: bringing car to the auto body shop i need a close up pic of the rear deck on top where the fender meets it ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From KingR44916 at aol.com Thu Aug 30 07:06:58 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 09:06:58 EDT Subject: [TR] rear deck Message-ID: its for a tr6 i need a photo where the rear fender attaches to the deck sorry for the confusion ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From triumphworks at gmail.com Thu Aug 30 08:19:02 2007 From: triumphworks at gmail.com (Alain) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 10:19:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear hub rebuild needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: According to TRF's recent TR4 mini-catalogue, TRF has stepped up the pace of their rebuild work, hiring Tom Spadafora on full-time since 2006, see below. You might want to contact Tom @ TRF to get a time estimate for rebuilding your rear hub units. NFI, Alain "TRF's rebuild shop works on: "engines, gearboxes, rear axles, IRS rear hubs, steering racks, carburettors, and brake calipers. Since autumn 2006, TRF's rebuild shop, known as C.A.R components, has been run by Tom Spadafora. Tom Spadafora ran his own garage for many years, and joined TRF staff because he is committed to high-quality work, and he likes to work hard. When Tom joined TRF, we had a huge backlog of units for rebuilding and Tom worked through this backlog during the winter months. He now completes small units such as brake calipers and carburettors in a very short amount of time after they have been received here, and larger units proceed in a more systematic manner. Please note that units for rebuilding are becoming harder to acquire, and we now prefer to rebuild a customer's old units rather than offering units in exchange. C.A.R. Components exists to provide enthusiasts with a place to send components for rebuilding which they do not have the knowledge or skill to complete at home. It is the continuing goal of C.A.R. Components to provide very high quality service at reasonable prices." TRF 328 Killen Road, Armagh, PA 15920, USA Customer Service: (800) 283-3723 Technical Assistance: (814) 446-4491 12:30 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. M  F Times Are Eastern TRF Fax: (814) 446-6729 On 8/29/07, TOMJOANNMI at aol.com wrote: > > I was just about ready to get my 75 TR6 back on the road after a long and > expensive renovation and my Rt rear hub is making noise. The mechanic says > it > needs new bearings. I believe this is a job left to experts, so I'm > looking for > recommendations for a rebuilder. I know that TRF rebuilds hubs, but their > turnaround time on the diff hubs they rebuilt for me was at least 2 > months. I would > like to get some use out of the car before the snow flies. Any > suggestions? > Should I get both rebuilt? Can the other side be far behind? I don't think > it's > making noise yet. > > Tom Miller > 75 TR6 > > -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Aug 30 08:21:11 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 10:21:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TRF Brake Discs In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F623E37@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <000001c7e838$a00f7a50$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F594DDB@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8C9B65902507190-190-6354@FWM-M03.sysops.aol.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F623E37@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Hi, I can't speak directly to Green Stuff, but the kevlar is only part of the friction "package". On carbon-kevlar, you get great stopping at lower temps but a lot of dust. And it gets everywhere. So Green Stuff must use something other than carbon. My take on Stan's situation - you have the pads, you don't drive 100k mile per year... use them. You already have them, so what the heck. I haven't driven a car with Green Stuff, so I can't provide any data. Anyone want me to test the pads on thier car? :-) rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 30 08:31:26 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 07:31:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Control Head for TR3 and Steering Wheel question In-Reply-To: <20070830101637.704701C28F@mail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <20070830143047.XVAW14340.mta11.adelphia.net@randall> > I am looking for a used control head (steering wheel) for my > TR3. I have the adjustable steering shaft. FWIW, if you have the old control head, it's easy enough to swap the only part that is different between it and the fixed version. > Also, what are some suggestions for a replacement steering > wheel. Mine is in bad shape. I just stuck a leather cover from Moss on mine. Liked it a lot, hope I can get another one for my 'new' TR3. Randall From McGaheyRx at aol.com Thu Aug 30 09:00:21 2007 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:00:21 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] TRF Brake Discs Message-ID: In a message dated 8/30/2007 9:21:42 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, lang at isis.mit.edu writes: I haven't driven a car with Green Stuff, so I can't provide any data. Anyone want me to test the pads on thier car? I have. I now have carbon/kevlar - I haven't autocrossed with them yet, but so far I think they are better then the Green Stuff pads I removed - Carbon Kevlar definitely produces A LOT more dust, though. BTW, the initial reason I took out the Green Stuff pads is they were rusting away from the back side faster than they were wearing on the friction side - they have plenty of friction material left - free to anybody who wants to try them. Cheers, Jack Mc ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From cbfoch at charter.net Thu Aug 30 10:51:49 2007 From: cbfoch at charter.net (Craig Foch) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 09:51:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ford-powered TR4 Message-ID: <8a42fb0065fc2d6400defc00c53e119f@charter.net> I saw this advertised in Hemmings Motor News. I'll bet it runs like a scalded cat, but for how long before something breaks? See http://www.showroomclassics.com/index.php and type "Triumph" in the search field. Craig Foch 1963 Triumph TR4 1964 Ford Falcon Ranchero 1988 Daihatsu Charade From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Aug 30 11:09:34 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 13:09:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ford-powered TR4 In-Reply-To: <8a42fb0065fc2d6400defc00c53e119f@charter.net> References: <8a42fb0065fc2d6400defc00c53e119f@charter.net> Message-ID: <000c01c7eb28$8b78fdd0$210110ac@bobspc> Am I reading the graph wrong? 300 MPH is 5th at 8500 RPM. He almost hit 200 in 4th gear. :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Foch Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:52 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Ford-powered TR4 I saw this advertised in Hemmings Motor News. I'll bet it runs like a scalded cat, but for how long before something breaks? See http://www.showroomclassics.com/index.php and type "Triumph" in the search field. Craig Foch 1963 Triumph TR4 1964 Ford Falcon Ranchero 1988 Daihatsu Charade _______________________________________________ 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.12/979 - Release Date: 8/29/2007 8:21 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.12/979 - Release Date: 8/29/2007 8:21 PM From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Aug 30 11:10:56 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 13:10:56 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 video. Message-ID: In a message dated 8/29/2007 4:16:36 PM Mountain Daylight Time, RBHouston writes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X5CIBK1kZg This was posted on the Spridget list..... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour Return-Path: Received: from Robert (adsl-66-136-118-44.dsl.elpstx.swbell.net [66.136.118.44]) by ciaaol-d08.mail.aol.com (v119.9) with ESMTP id MAILCIAAOLD084-c0f246d5f0447b; Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:16:36 -0400 Message-ID: <02f201c7ea8a$44058f70$0501a8c0 at Robert> From: "Robert B. Houston" To: Subject: Fw: [9issa] You might enjoy. Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 16:16:36 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.3138 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.3138 X-AOL-IP: 66.136.118.44 Regards, Robert B. Houston Vice President of Sales Transervicios S.A. de C.V. 915-592-2082 office 915-598-8862 fax 915-726-0704 cell rhouston at transervicios.com www.transervicios All business transactions with, for, or by Transervicios S.A. de C.V. are based on Transervicios Terms and Conditions. A copy of our Terms and Conditions is available upon request ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: <9issa at justbrits.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 7:32 AM Subject: [9issa] You might enjoy. Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 13:32:56 +0000 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X5CIBK1kZg Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ More photos, more messages, more storage-get 2GB with Windows Live Hotmail. http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_2G_0507 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > 9issa mailing list > 9issa at justbrits.com > http://justbrits.com/mailman/listinfo/9issa_justbrits.com From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Aug 30 11:14:43 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 13:14:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Max Lucas TR7 Gremlins Message-ID: In a message dated 8/29/2007 6:02:53 PM Mountain Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: OK, hooked up a jumper cable from the left tail light housing to the exhaust pipe and all lighting functions then appear to operate normally. Take off the cable and we go back to rear end Disco Lights! What would be next? Remove the whole light assembly? Need a Wedge Type Guy here. Not seeing any real "Ground Connections" to clean up. Not interested in tearing Ugly's whole rear end up unless it is required. Thanks a Bunch, Darrell I cured a Fiat with this problem many years ago by using short lengths of wire from a ground to to a screw that held the lamps in. Wrapped around the screw and tightend down, and the lights were grounded. I had to do both front and back on the Fiat. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From kinneyjr at msn.com Thu Aug 30 11:15:25 2007 From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 13:15:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack Message-ID: I have been reading the messages about the 4A extension with great interest. My fan belt started to disintegrate Sunday evening and I noticed the groove in the fan belt extension during my preparations to replace the belt. I slide a piece of paper between the extension and the steering rack and it was a tight fit. DOD (Dear Old Dad) suggested that the motor mounts were bad and needed to be replaced. What I think I am going to do is go with the TR4 motor mounts to get the extra clearance without fooling with shims for starters. They are cheaper than the 4A mounts as well. Does anyone have any thoughts on using a grooved fan belt? Moss says it is a "superior" replacement. I have a stock smooth belt from TRF and that type lasted 90K. Thanks, Jeremy '66 TR4A _________________________________________________________________ Now you can see troublebefore he arrives http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_protection_0507 From guy at genfiniti.com Thu Aug 30 11:34:09 2007 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 12:34:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001301c7eb2b$f911e890$6901a8c0@idea.com> Jeremy, Since I started this thread, I'll the first to weigh in.. I am using brand-new TR-4 styled (the rounds ones) motor mounts. Even with these, the groove fan extension is still super-close to the rack. After hearing from several listers that the factory used to shim the mounts safely, I've decided to do the same. I am getting several "C"-washer to slip between the top of the mounts, and the bottom of the engine plate. My plan is to add enough to get the space Needed to slip the fan belt in/out. Right now I'm eyeballing part CW-110 from idsmachine.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+guy=genfiniti.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeremy Kinney Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:15 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack I have been reading the messages about the 4A extension with great interest. My fan belt started to disintegrate Sunday evening and I noticed the groove in the fan belt extension during my preparations to replace the belt. I slide a piece of paper between the extension and the steering rack and it was a tight fit. DOD (Dear Old Dad) suggested that the motor mounts were bad and needed to be replaced. What I think I am going to do is go with the TR4 motor mounts to get the extra clearance without fooling with shims for starters. They are cheaper than the 4A mounts as well. Does anyone have any thoughts on using a grooved fan belt? Moss says it is a "superior" replacement. I have a stock smooth belt from TRF and that type lasted 90K. Thanks, Jeremy '66 TR4A _________________________________________________________________ Now you can see troublebefore he arrives http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_protection_0507 _______________________________________________ guy at genfiniti.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From peb3 at cornell.edu Thu Aug 30 12:19:42 2007 From: peb3 at cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 14:19:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ford-powered TR4 In-Reply-To: <8a42fb0065fc2d6400defc00c53e119f@charter.net> References: <8a42fb0065fc2d6400defc00c53e119f@charter.net> Message-ID: At 9:51 AM -0700 8/30/07, Craig Foch wrote: >I saw this advertised in Hemmings Motor News. I'll bet it runs like a >scalded cat, but for how long before something breaks? Like the diff? I see no mention of any modifications to that. Probably won't last long with 400 HP. -- Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu) Middlebury Center, PA (visit our new location!) '71 TR6 CC61193L (30 year owner) From dkspence at telus.net Thu Aug 30 12:24:24 2007 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 12:24:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] Ford-powered TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9835E6B8-213F-4874-AD0E-3E9F711EB2CD@telus.net> I'd suggest one attempt at hard acceleration will strip the splines on the rear wheels. This is why MG went to splines plus pins on the MGA Twin cam. On 30-Aug-07, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: [TR] Ford-powered TR4 > > > I saw this advertised in Hemmings Motor News. I'll bet it runs like > a scalded cat, but for how long before something breaks? > > See http://www.showroomclassics.com/index.php and type "Triumph" in > the search field. > > Craig Foch From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 30 12:35:32 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:35:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ford-powered TR4 In-Reply-To: <8a42fb0065fc2d6400defc00c53e119f@charter.net> References: <8a42fb0065fc2d6400defc00c53e119f@charter.net> Message-ID: <000301c7eb34$8c0b0e30$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > I saw this advertised in Hemmings Motor News. I'll bet it runs like a > scalded cat, but for how long before something breaks? I don't know, but there is a similar car in our local club and he seems to get along with it very well. Ran the original rear end for a long time, but eventually switched to a narrowed Ford 9", which was apparently an easy swap. His biggest problem seems to be keeping it cool when using all those ponies. But I've caravanned with him on long trips and never seen him break down. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 30 12:35:42 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:35:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRF Brake Discs In-Reply-To: References: <000001c7e838$a00f7a50$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000401c7eb34$92247cc0$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > Although the conversion, IMHO, is only to achieve a weight > advantage since > the front discs on the TR3A offer a lot of braking for the > size of the car. Exactly ! > With all the good brake manufacturers out there surely there is a caliper > and disc that can be bolted up to the TR3A mounts. If you are going to change the caliper and disc just to shave a few pounds, why not shave another ounce by changing the mount ? The TR4-6 mount is a simple bolt-on. And I would have to guess that there are relatively few people interested in squeezing the last 0.01% performance out of their TR3s. Those that are can easily use the components made for later cars ... leaving a very limited market for calipers to bolt to TR3 mounts. We are very lucky to have people like Joe and Jack (and many others) who already manufacture performance parts for our cars more out of love for the marque than any real potential for profit. But even they need to focus on items that will actually sell a few copies. Randall From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Thu Aug 30 12:59:42 2007 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 14:59:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack Message-ID: <380-220078430185942891@M2W008.mail2web.com> One has to be careful here - Simply shimming the front of the engine without regard to the rear mount can cause other problems. There is a factory angle to the engine, be it level or some angle. This angle is "suppose" to be the same as the pinion angle on the rear end so that the U-joints have the same relative angles. For example, if the pinion is mounted with a 6 degree upward from level tilt, then the engine is mounted with a 6 deg rearward down from level tilt. If you start changing these angles too much - and it only takes a couple of degrees, then you risk the possibility of driveshaft vibration and early U-joint failure. The more angular misalignment, the greater the vibration and the shorter the lifespan of these components - **********************original message*********************** Since I started this thread, I'll the first to weigh in.. I am using brand-new TR-4 styled (the rounds ones) motor mounts. Even with these, the groove fan extension is still super-close to the rack. After hearing from several listers that the factory used to shim the mounts safely, I've decided to do the same. I am getting several "C"-washer to slip between the top of the mounts, and the bottom of the engine plate. My plan is to add enough to get the space Needed to slip the fan belt in/out. -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 30 14:53:39 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 13:53:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] TR3A Long Island In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001801c7eb47$d7ee6a00$6a5636cc@navcom.com> > the landlord sold the stuff at auction. > > My legal remedy is against the renter, that is, the > restoration guy, Sports > Car Haven in NY. I'm certainly no lawyer, but I think you need a second opinion. Seems to me the landlord had an obligation to at least attempt to contact the rightful owners of the stuff he sold; and if you can show that he made no such effort, you would have recourse against him for negligence. Randall From pryner at verizon.net Thu Aug 30 16:16:55 2007 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 18:16:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] TR3A Long Island In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I had a similar experience many years ago, but I was on the buyer (donor) side. I met a man who had his TR at a restoration shop that went under. The city police took all of the cars as the city owned the property the shop was renting. They stored all of the cars and tried to find the owners. Since there were not many records the cars sat for several years. After talking to the owner of the TR, he offered to give me the car for the storage fees that had mounted up over the years. The next day I made several calls to a town in Illinois and found the car. The police told me that there were no storage fees and they just wanted to get the car out of their storage lot. I flew to Illinois from North Dakota, installed a new battery and fresh gas and drove the unrestored car home sans a top. Couldn't drive a night as turning on the lights and the wipers at the same time produced a lot of smoke from under the hood and rain came and went hourly. Bottom line, the car belongs to the owner of the title, not the restoration company and they have no right to sell the car unless the owner is negligent in paying any repair costs. If there are bills due on the car, then the shop could get a mechanics lien and eventually sell the vehicle to recover their costs. Without the state providing a lien or title of some sort, the sale couldn't have been legal. Pete -----Original Message----- From: british-cars-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net [mailto:british-cars-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of WSpohn4 at aol.com Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 5:30 PM To: british-cars at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [British-cars] TR3A Long Island In a message dated 8/30/2007 1:54:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: I'm certainly no lawyer, but I think you need a second opinion. Seems to me the landlord had an obligation to at least attempt to contact the rightful owners of the stuff he sold; and if you can show that he made no such effort, you would have recourse against him for negligence. From skip47 at powernet.net Thu Aug 30 16:27:09 2007 From: skip47 at powernet.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 15:27:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ford-powered TR4 References: <8a42fb0065fc2d6400defc00c53e119f@charter.net> Message-ID: <005d01c7eb54$e8f132d0$0100a8c0@ZEUS> There's a website devoted to putting V8 power into LBC's. See: http://www.britishv8.org/index.htm There's several triumphs there, including a TR4 with a Chevy 427, and a spitfire with a (gulp!) Chevy 460! The article on putting a Ford in a TR6 said that the engine was actually LIGHTER than the stock TR, and they had do do some work to balance the car. As for breaking stuff, I can tell you that even though the TR gearbox was fitted to the Daimler SP 250 with a lovely hemi V8, it won't hold up for too long under Ford power. The driveshaft and rear end probably would need changing, maybe a Dana 44 like the Corvettes.... Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A 70 TVR original block, twice original power (how do you think I know about changing drivetrain components...? From: "Craig Foch" > I saw this advertised in Hemmings Motor News. I'll bet it runs like a > scalded cat, but for how long before something breaks? > > See http://www.showroomclassics.com/index.php and type "Triumph" in the > search field. From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Aug 30 16:30:04 2007 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 18:30:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TRF Brake Discs In-Reply-To: References: <000001c7e838$a00f7a50$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F594DDB@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8C9B65902507190-190-6354@FWM-M03.sysops.aol.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE5407136F623E37@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: I DONT THINK SO! We all know what happened last time I let you drive MY car:) Marty Sukey Anyone want me to test the pads on thier car? :-) rml _________________________________________________________________ Invite your mail contacts to join your friends list with Windows Live Spaces. It's easy! http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&m kt=en-us From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 30 18:55:59 2007 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 17:55:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Ford-powered TR4 Message-ID: <358779.99414.qm@web81701.mail.mud.yahoo.com> ____________________________________________________________________________________ Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when. http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/222 Received: from [12.208.102.250] by web81707.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP; Thu, 30 Aug 2007 17:28:47 PDT Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 17:28:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Kurt Johnson Subject: Re: [TR] Ford-powered TR4 To: Skip Gurnee In-Reply-To: <005d01c7eb54$e8f132d0$0100a8c0 at ZEUS> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Content-Length: 1156 Just look at the engine compartment of a tr4-6. that space is just begging for a v-8. The V-8 is a better fit in a TR than the mgb or sunbeam tiger. You know if the Triumph engineers would have had the money to play around with they would experimented with a small block Ford or Chevy. Hell, Shelby became a legend for his Anglo-American Cobra. I've been having evil thoughts thinking of my TR6 and the 4.6 sohc in my Lincoln. --- Skip Gurnee wrote: > There's a website devoted to putting V8 power into > LBC's. See: > http://www.britishv8.org/index.htm > There's several triumphs there, including a TR4 with > a Chevy 427, and a > spitfire with a (gulp!) Chevy 460! The article on > putting a Ford in a TR6 > said that the engine was actually LIGHTER than the > stock TR, and they had do > do some work to balance the car. > As for breaking stuff, I can tell you that even > though the TR gearbox was > fitted to the Daimler SP 250 with a lovely hemi V8, > it won't hold up for too > long under Ford power. The driveshaft and rear end > probably would need > changing, maybe a Dana 44 like the Corvettes.... > Skip Gurnee > 64 TR4 > 66 TR4A > 70 TVR original block, twice original power (how do > you think I know about > changing drivetrain components...? > > From: "Craig Foch" > > > > I saw this advertised in Hemmings Motor News. I'll > bet it runs like a > > scalded cat, but for how long before something > breaks? > > > > See http://www.showroomclassics.com/index.php and > type "Triumph" in the > > search field. > _______________________________________________ > kajohns64 at yahoo.com > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph > Register > http://www.vtr.org > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433 From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Thu Aug 30 19:38:39 2007 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 21:38:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear hub rebuild needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004901c7eb6f$a819aa60$284d3b47@Scott> Tom: I used Merryman Modifications, a well respected British car shop. Their address is: 2461 Carlisle Pike Hanover, PA 17331 717.633.6083 It is about $350 if you send in your bad hub. The turnaround is about a week as he uses a jaguar shop in Wisconsin that keeps rebuilt hubs in stock (which TRF does not). Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TOMJOANNMI at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 6:25 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Rear hub rebuild needed I was just about ready to get my 75 TR6 back on the road after a long and expensive renovation and my Rt rear hub is making noise. The mechanic says it needs new bearings. I believe this is a job left to experts, so I'm looking for recommendations for a rebuilder. I know that TRF rebuilds hubs, but their turnaround time on the diff hubs they rebuilt for me was at least 2 months. I would like to get some use out of the car before the snow flies. Any suggestions? Should I get both rebuilt? Can the other side be far behind? I don't think it's making noise yet. Tom Miller 75 TR6 From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 30 19:53:52 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 21:53:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Ford-powered TR4 Message-ID: In a message dated 8/30/2007 7:57:00 PM Central Daylight Time, kajohns64 at yahoo.com writes: > Just look at the engine compartment of a tr4-6. that > space is just begging for a v-8. The V-8 is a better > fit in a TR than the mgb or sunbeam tiger. You know > if the Triumph engineers would have had the money to > play around with they would experimented with a small > block Ford or Chevy. Hell, Shelby became a legend for > his Anglo-American Cobra. > > I've been having evil thoughts thinking of my TR6 and > the 4.6 sohc in my Lincoln. > If you are really interested in this sort of stuff, the British V8 club has already been mentioned. What hasn't been mentioned is that they hold a convention every year and you will se 60 or so cars at these conventions, mostly MG's but enough R's to make it interesting for us TR guys. Next year's convention will be in Port Hudson, Wisc (north of Milwaukee). Dave From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Thu Aug 30 21:10:17 2007 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 19:10:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] San Diego British Car Day - Sunday, October 7 Message-ID: >From: "Steve" >To: "Richard Feibusch" >Subject: San Diego British Car Day >Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 18:30:10 -0700 > >Hi Folks-- > >Just a reminder . . . > >This year we are NOT snail mailing the Registration Forms for the upcoming (Sunday, October 7th) San Diego British Car Day. 28th ANNUAL SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY & PICNIC Sunday, October 7, 2007 Fairbrook Farms, 4949 S. Mission Road Fallbrook, California (directions below) www.sandiegobritishcarday.org > >I've attached the form and explanation page for your convenience. Pre-Registration is only $20.00. By Pre-registering you save $5.00 at the gate, you save considerable time (by not having to wait in line . . . on what is usually a warm day!) and it allows the organizers to order the correct number of trophies and organize the field for the number and type of cars pre-registered. > >Please share the form with any and all who are interested!!! > >In order to be pre-registered, we need to have your form and check returned to us by September 10th. > >We hope to see you all there! We'll have wonderful vendors and the Cameron Highlanders Bagpipers--back by popular demand. The last 5 years, we have been averaging around 430 wonderful British cars! > >Plan on bringing a picnic and your own beverages, or enjoying the wonderful food provided by our ultra fantastic food vendor, Hogg's Beach BBQ. > >QUESTIONS? Please call San Diego British Car Day Info Line: 760-746-1458 Steve Kirby From patton at suscom-maine.net Thu Aug 30 20:25:59 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 22:25:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack In-Reply-To: <001301c7eb2b$f911e890$6901a8c0@idea.com> Message-ID: Hello Guy, I've been reading this thread with interest and now, with a bit of self promotion, would like to offer another solution. I have recently started manufacturing fan eliminator kits for the TR3 and TR4. For years I have supplied kits for the TR6 that eliminated the mechanical fan and made room for a puller fan. There have been a number of requests for a similar kit for the TR3/4 hence the new product. If you are interested please email me directly. Sorry to jump in with a commercial. . . . Rick Patton rick at sidedrafttbi.com > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of Guy D. Huggins > Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 1:34 PM > To: 'Jeremy Kinney'; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack > > > Jeremy, > > Since I started this thread, I'll the first to weigh in.. > > I am using brand-new TR-4 styled (the rounds ones) motor mounts. > Even with these, the groove fan extension is still super-close to > the rack. > > After hearing from several listers that the factory used to shim > the mounts > safely, > I've decided to do the same. I am getting several "C"-washer to slip > between the top of > the mounts, and the bottom of the engine plate. My plan is to > add enough to > get the space > Needed to slip the fan belt in/out. > snip From pethier at comcast.net Thu Aug 30 22:19:04 2007 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 04:19:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ford-powered TR4 Message-ID: <083120070419.8292.46D796B8000D49BF0000206422007637049D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Am I reading the graph wrong? 300 MPH is 5th at 8500 RPM. He almost hit 200 > in 4th gear. :-) This is a speed-in-gears chart, which is just a graphical representation of the mathematical relationship between the engine RPM and the road speed in various gears. Nothing here implies that the car ever has, or indeed could, go 200 MPH in real life. I would not be interested in being the first one to attempt drive a stock-shape TR4 at twice the speed I have driven mine. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 31 08:53:17 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 14:53:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ford-powered TR4 In-Reply-To: <000c01c7eb28$8b78fdd0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: >Am I reading the graph wrong? 300 MPH is 5th at 8500 RPM. He almost hit 200 >in 4th gear. :-) I think they are dreaming about the speed. The calculations for my car put it at 160 MPH at 5500 RPM in fourth. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Now you can see troublebefore he arrives http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_protection_0507 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 31 09:23:43 2007 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 15:23:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Ford-powered TR4 In-Reply-To: <358779.99414.qm@web81701.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The 4.6 Ford is a wider engine. It will not fit as well as the 302. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Puzzles, trivia teasers, word scrambles and more. Play for your chance to win! http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_hotmailtextlink From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Aug 31 09:26:11 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 10:26:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 video. References: Message-ID: <002001c7ebe3$4360a820$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> That was fun! I could identify an early mini, an Austin or Morris 1100, a Thames van and an early 60s Ford Consul/Zephyr/Zodiac (couldn't quite tell which it was) in the film. I was that guy's age in 1971, but all I could afford back then was an assortment of ancient Morris Minors, Ford Anglias and, the jewel in the crown, a 1966 Hillman Imp. I loved THAT car... Mike > In a message dated 8/29/2007 4:16:36 PM Mountain Daylight Time, RBHouston > writes: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X5CIBK1kZg > > > This was posted on the Spridget list..... > > > Robert B. Houston > Texan in New Mexico From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Aug 31 10:28:56 2007 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 12:28:56 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 video. Message-ID: In a message dated 8/31/2007 9:26:34 AM Mountain Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: I was that guy's age in 1971, but all I could afford back then was an assortment of ancient Morris Minors, Ford Anglias and, the jewel in the crown, a 1966 Hillman Imp. I loved THAT car... Mike Interesting. I got married in 1970 and my new wife and I left for my junior year at North Texas State University in a 62 TR3 and a 63 Saab Station Wagon. I sold the TR3 about a year later and bought a Fiat station wagon, then sold that and bought a Sunbeam Imp, cool car. Wish I had the Imp and the TR back now.... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Aug 31 11:47:05 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 12:47:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 video. References: Message-ID: <001601c7ebf6$f34a8d60$c4abcd4b@mikeslaptop> Actually, the Sunbeam version of the Imp was called the Stilletto in the UK, if I remember correctly. It had twin Stromberg CD125s and the rear window had a more gradual slope than the regular Imp, so that it looked like a fastback. Is that what you had, or did Chrysler rebadge the regular Hillman Imp and call it a Sunbeam when they exported it to the US? The Imp and its derivatives had an 875 cc all-aluminum engine, with single OHC. It was based on a Coventry Climax ffirepump engine, I believe, like many of C-C's engines. It was a great motor - I could lift thw bare block in one hand and swing it around my head. You could remove engine and gearbox as a unit by removing the single engine mount from the rear apron/crossmember, removing the two transmission mounts at the front, disconnecting the half shafts from the gearbox, drop the engine/gearbox onto jackstands or whatever was available, removing the rear crossmember and rolling the car forward, leaving the engine behind on the jackstands (it was a rear-engine car). That made it really easy to rebuild the engine for an impecunious college student who could only afford basic hand tools. Those were the days... Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: BearTranserv at aol.com To: mmarr at notwires.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 11:28 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 video. In a message dated 8/31/2007 9:26:34 AM Mountain Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: I was that guy's age in 1971, but all I could afford back then was an assortment of ancient Morris Minors, Ford Anglias and, the jewel in the crown, a 1966 Hillman Imp. I loved THAT car... Mike Interesting. I got married in 1970 and my new wife and I left for my junior year at North Texas State University in a 62 TR3 and a 63 Saab Station Wagon. I sold the TR3 about a year later and bought a Fiat station wagon, then sold that and bought a Sunbeam Imp, cool car. Wish I had the Imp and the TR back now.... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL.com. From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 31 11:54:03 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 13:54:03 EDT Subject: [TR] Port Hudson Message-ID: In a message dated 8/31/2007 8:00:06 AM Central Daylight Time, william.f.daehler at delphi.com writes: > Hi Dave, > > TR Digest Lister here. > > Port Hudson, north of Milwaukee? > > I have lived north of Milwaukee for 54 years and have never stumbled onto a > Port Hudson. > > Maybe you meant Port Washington ? > > Come to the show next year, I'll go with you. > > My bad. I checked the flyer in my car this morning and it is Port Washington. You're on. Neat stuff there. Dave From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Aug 31 12:36:47 2007 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 13:36:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Port Hudson References: Message-ID: <000601c7ebfd$e3d55250$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> > My bad. I checked the flyer in my car this morning and it is Port > Washington. > The home of Smith Bros. fish restaurant (if it is still there - I haven't been up to Port for quite a while). Try the lake perch. Mike From KingR44916 at aol.com Fri Aug 31 12:55:02 2007 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 14:55:02 EDT Subject: [TR] moss video Message-ID: does anyone have their video on how to paint a car ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From motorcarriage at charter.net Fri Aug 31 13:35:19 2007 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 15:35:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 video. Message-ID: <016101c7ec06$108f8ab0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571> Yeah, It was the Sumbeam Imp in the US the last 2 or so years they brought them over till 67. I think pre -65 they were still called a Hillman Imp. Only Scottish Import we had come through the shop. They even had a Sunbeam Minx as well about the same time. I also remember going out to PA Dutch Country in the Sunbeam Funwagon, which was a Commer Camper re-badged.We sold those as part of the Rootes Group Franchise , Sunbeam, Hillman, Humber, Singer and Commer Trucks, You could even get an Aronolt-Bristol or an Elva through the Rootes distributor back then. Oddly enough we sold 2 other brands of Cars with much the same character as the Imp. That being the Simca 1000 and the NSU 1000 TT, The NSU being the most sporty of them and the Simca at the bottom end. Those were the days, like You say. Wayne Lee Douglas,MA > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Michael Marr" > To: ; > Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 1:47 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 video. > > >> Actually, the Sunbeam version of the Imp was called the Stilletto in the >> UK, >> if I remember correctly. It had twin Stromberg CD125s and the rear >> window had >> a more gradual slope than the regular Imp, so that it looked like a >> fastback. >> Is that what you had, or did Chrysler rebadge the regular Hillman Imp and >> call >> it a Sunbeam when they exported it to the US? From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 31 15:20:55 2007 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 17:20:55 EDT Subject: [TR] Port Hudson Message-ID: In a message dated 8/31/2007 1:38:25 PM Central Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > The home of Smith Bros. fish restaurant (if it is still there - I haven't > been up to Port for quite a while). Try the lake perch. > Come on up and I'll buy you a Point. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 31 16:46:28 2007 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 15:46:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack In-Reply-To: References: <001301c7eb2b$f911e890$6901a8c0@idea.com> Message-ID: <00ce01c7ec20$c4d3ec40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I have recently started > manufacturing fan eliminator kits for the TR3 and TR4. So, what exactly is your kit ? A new front hub with a harmonic dampener and pulley to take the original wide belt ? May as well tell the entire list, since you mentioned it here first. Randall From dorpaul at negia.net Fri Aug 31 16:55:06 2007 From: dorpaul at negia.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 18:55:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] what GA's for console? Message-ID: <003401c7ec22$40883520$b70260cf@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Randall, I am re-doing the wiring on my TR3's center console (following several wiring diagrams). What switches/gauges is it important to wire with a certain gauge of wire? Thus far, my electric system is pretty well stock. I understand that I'll proably be making changes in the future and will rewire for them at a later date. Will rewiring things with 16 gauge work OK? Is 18 ga. too small for a wire going to the key switch? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Fri Aug 31 16:57:52 2007 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 00:57:52 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR3 video. References: <001601c7ebf6$f34a8d60$c4abcd4b@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <003001c7ec22$5cd366f0$0500a8c0@Study> I remember buying a new Sunbeam Imp in 1966. It was an uprated version of the Hillman Imp. ISTR there were two carburettors, a better compression ratio and other refinements now gone from memory but it performed markedly better than the ordinary Imp. The Sunbeam Stilletto was the same basic car but was a fastback version. Hillman also sold the hot version under the Singer label. I think they called it a Gazelle! All the Imps performed very well and were very reliable but you needed a lot of concentration to keep straight in a strong crosswind as they seemed to get very light on the front at speed. Of course the boot was under the bonnet and if you put a heavy weight there it helped with the steering. You could use the same bag of cement that you had to put in the boot of your 3.0 litre Ford Capri to keep the rear wheels behind the front in the wet. They were good times for motoring, the Jaguar E type was not long unveiled also the Datsun 240Z had just appeared, and Triumph and Rover were making excellent 2 and 2 and a half litre motors. Ah yes I remember also.......but enough bandwidth wasted already! David Brister. 1967 TR4A, (now with working heater motor, thanks). -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5130 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From patton at suscom-maine.net Fri Aug 31 22:16:49 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 00:16:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] fan extension, fan belt, steering rack In-Reply-To: <00ce01c7ec20$c4d3ec40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: > -----Original Message----- snip > Behalf Of Randall snip > > I have recently started > > manufacturing fan eliminator kits for the TR3 and TR4. > > So, what exactly is your kit ? A new front hub with a harmonic > dampener and > pulley to take the original wide belt ? > > May as well tell the entire list, since you mentioned it here first. > > Randall > Randall, The kit is designed to eliminate the fan and fan extension when converting to an electric fan. After removal of the fan extension it will just slip onto the six bolts that are already in place. No alterations to your car are required. The acorn nuts, lock washers, and flat washers are all stainless steel. The new center bolt is a grade 8 which is really overkill but a lot of Triumph owners insist. The kit includes the CNC billet aluminum hub, stainless acorn nuts and washers, and grade 8 crank bolt with washers. Cost of the kit is $45 plus shipping of $8 within the US. Photos http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/tr3_4eliminator.jpg http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/tr34_eliminator_kit.jpg thanks for asking, Rick http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/ rick at sidedrafttbi.com