<div dir="ltr"><div>No, the Smiths type does not require the case be grounded... except for the night light.</div><div><br></div><div>The two terminals are</div><div>1. about 10V (pulsed, 10V average from the regulator)</div><div>2. to the sensor which completes the circuit by going to ground.</div><div>And it doesn't matter which terminal is which.. Inside is a heating wire, non-polaized.</div><div>Gary W.</div><div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Aug 22, 2025 at 2:40 PM Donald Antilla via Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div class="msg4089556418688194260">
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:16pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">Graham: Please pardon my ignorance, but will you let me know if you have a classic Smiths gauge setup, or a Ford type?<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:16pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">My comment prior about grounding the case assumes you have a Smith’s type system. In that case, you do need to ground your indicator case or- as happened to me- you get flakey
readings.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:16pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">Don
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:16pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif"><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12pt"><b><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Aptos",sans-serif;color:black">From:
</span></b><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Aptos",sans-serif;color:black">Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">tigers-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of Stu <<a href="mailto:sabre2tgr@gmail.com" target="_blank">sabre2tgr@gmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Date: </b>Thursday, August 21, 2025 at 7:37</span><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black"> </span><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Aptos",sans-serif;color:black">PM<br>
<b>To: </b><a href="mailto:gharlowe@comcast.net" target="_blank">gharlowe@comcast.net</a> <<a href="mailto:gharlowe@comcast.net" target="_blank">gharlowe@comcast.net</a>><br>
<b>Cc: </b><a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net" target="_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a> <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net" target="_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject: </b>Re: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Reading High<u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt">A high reading indicates there is a higher current flowing through the gauge, so a poor connection is unlikely. Is your tank near empty or full? A bad regulator might make less of a difference if the gauge
is near empty.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt"><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt">The voltage regulator gets its ground through it's mounting screw. It would not be a first if there's a bit of corrosion under there. In a quiet place, turn on the key, don't start it, and you should be
able to hear the stock voltage regulator ticking away..<u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt"><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt">For some more hints, here's a link to my old article on gauge troubleshooting. <u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt"><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt"><a href="http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/BrennanGauge/rt-BrennanGauge1.asp" target="_blank">TigersUnited.com</a><u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt"><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt">Both gauges have the same innards, so you can swap leads and see what happens with the pointer angles. <u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt"><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt">Stu<u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Thu, Aug 21, 2025 at 5:57 PM gharlowe--- via Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net" target="_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<u></u><u></u></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"> <u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Hey all –<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">It’s been quiet here so hoping to T-up an easy discussion.
<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">My temp gauge is reading about 25 degrees high. I noticed it after a shop installed a new clutch, which required the engine to be removed, coolant drained, etc., but nothing that
should have affected how the gauge reads. Running on a cool day, temps were reading around 215-220 degrees. To ensure I wasn’t actually in danger of overheating, I checked various water-cooled locations with an infrared thermometer. Highest reading was
right at the water neck/thermostat housing (191 deg F). The fuel gauge is reading accurately. I understand the under-dash instrument stabilizer can affect both instruments, but in this case, only one gauge is off. I plan to check the ground to the temp
gauge and clean contact points at the engine sending unit and at the gauge. Any other suggestions?
<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thanks and I hope all is well out there!<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Graham Harlowe<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">B382001466<u></u><u></u></p>
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