<div dir="ltr">Thanks for the responses.<div><div>Everything is wired to the horns, they look original. There are 2 purple wires to each horn, one is hot from the fuse box the other wire goes to ground when the horn ring is pressed. When I plug the hot wire to the horn it works fine, even honks. So the horns must not be original since they are grounded to the frame. I still have 4 purple wires when I only have connections for two and the wiring diagram only shows two wires, one to each horn.</div></div><div>So should I isolate the horn frame ground, plug the hot wire to the horn, use the existing jumper between the horns and connect the horn ring wire to the other horn?</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Sep 24, 2023 at 1:50 PM Theo Smit <<a href="mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca">tsmit@shaw.ca</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto"><div dir="ltr"></div><div dir="ltr">Correct except that Rootes (or Lucas) would never use a relay where they could instead pass all the current through a finicky sliding contact. </div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Bob, the horns, when properly adjusted, draw about three amps each. It would be a good idea to wire in a cube type relay so that the ring contact does not have to pass that much current. </div><div dir="ltr">If you like I can draw up a wiring diagram for that. </div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Theo<br><blockquote type="cite">On Sep 23, 2023, at 10:52 PM, Tom Witt via Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net" target="_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
<p>I believe most horns have a relay and the 12v+ is already at said
relay. When the horn ring makes contact it GROUNDS the relay
(completing the circuit) and the relay contact points connect.
That passes through the 12V+ to the horns. So, typically the horn
ring simply grounds the relay to activate it. Sorry too late for
me to check the manual for Tiger specifics but MOST cars function
that way.</p>
<p> Think of yourself standing at a light switch in the house. When
someone presses you on the shoulder (connecting to ground) you and
the switch act like the relay moving the switch to the on
position. This then send power to the light (horn). When the
person pressing on your shoulder releases you turn the switch off.
Hope that helps.<br>
</p>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>On 9/23/2023 5:59 PM, Robert Wanty
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">I am working on wiring the horns for the first time
since my 15 year restore. I am working with the original wiring
harness and horns. Starting at the horns there is one on each
side with a jumper wire between the two horns, there are 2
purple wires leading to each horn, one wire on each side is hot
and wired to the fuse box the second wire is not hot or
grounded. I installed a new horn ring from SS and have one wire
from the contact on the horn ring and a second wire for the
circle contact off the signal switch, I think the wire for the
circle contact should be hot but I don't seem to have a
connector for it in the harness under the dash and nothing for
the wire to the horn ring.
<div>It would seem to me that I should have a hot wire to the
ring contact then a hot to the horns when the horn ring is
pressed. but the wiring harness does not seem to follow that
way of thinking.<br>
<div>The wiring diagram is some help but as usual my limited
knowledge on this will probably start a fire.</div>
<div>Any help would be appreciated, I would rather not rewire
the circuits so hopefully I can restore the Lucas <a href="http://system.to" target="_blank">system.to</a>
its original splendor.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Bob </div>
<div> </div>
<div><br>
<div> </div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset></fieldset>
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