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All, I sent the question last week about the stock 4:1 to 6:1 pedal ratio. Tom H as always has a great solution ready to go and he sent his work details. Tom's solution is great and well-engineered for those not wanting to alter the firewall.</div>
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I don't mind the firewall modifications and since my car is a body only in primer the firewall modification is easy. Don't look at the photos if you don't want to see the cutting of a Tiger. <a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/aw8dta9RoA4uwKRk9" id="LPlnk" style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">https://photos.app.goo.gl/aw8dta9RoA4uwKRk9</a></div>
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A quick run down of changes.</div>
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<li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">stock pedal ratio is 4:1, clevis pin hole is 3" from pivot and the pedal is 12" long. </span></span></li><li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Needed to drill a new 1/4 in hole 2" from pivot (1" higher than stock) for the clevis. I did build up and grind smooth some extra material with the welder
to match the thickness </span></span></li><li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The plan is to use the standard pedal mount top hole in the firewall.</span></span></li><li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Once the pedal was drilled the pedal bracket needed to be shortened and the lower mount hole moved up by 1" so I trimmed, drilled and welded the braket
to clear the higher clevis pin</span></span></li><li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">For the firewall I've cut a piece of steel plate and traced the stock holes to overlay on the firewall</span></span></li><li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">I cut out two slots in the firewall leaving the perpendicular reinforcement braces to allow for moving up the MCs and pushrods. </span></span></li><li>I've ordered a 0.7 clutch and 15/16 Brake (Datsun) MC. Once I have those and am sure of the mounting hole pieces I'll drill the plate bolt it in place and weld it into position. Then I need to sort out the pushrod pin length and retention.</li></ul>
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<div>I'm really happy with how the work went over the weekend. Please give any feedback if I'm overlooking something critical or if anyone has done anything similar.</div>
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<div>Also in digging through parts I was trying to decide if I should keep or trash parts. Specifically, any reason to keep the original Master Cylinders, Exhaust manifolds, or generator? </div>
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<div>thanks for looking</div>
<div>dan</div>
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