<html><body><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000"><div>remember that TigersUnited.com is not dead, and among other resources it has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop Manual, including good re-digitized drawings of the wiring diagram.</div><div><a href="http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg">http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg</a><br data-mce-bogus="1"></div><div><br data-mce-bogus="1"></div><div>So, with respect to that drawing:</div><div>- Your tach should be powered through the spade connector on the back of the tach. That should be connected to a green wire that is energized only when the ignition is on or in the start position.</div><div>- Your tach should be grounded through the black daisy-chain wires that need to be connected to the dash frame somewhere (not just gauge to gauge to gauge).</div><div>- The OEM wiring has the coil power run through a white wire, looped through the transformer U-shaped metal piece and plastic frame that is mounted on the back of the tach. It kind of sounds like the Nissonger rebuild gave you an alternate means of sensing the ignition with their white "signal in" line. You should have got a wiring diagram with the tach, if they changed the way it can be wired up.</div><div>- That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the ballast resistor as shown in the wiring diagram (and the other end plugs into the ignition switch, not the tach). It supplies power to the coil through the ballast resistor when the car is running.</div><div>- The white/blue wire runs from the solenoid to the ballast resistor to the coil positive.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus="1"></div><div>It sounds like you need to make sure that the white wire you plugged into the tach, is connected to the ballast resistor at the other end. If so, unplug the tach end, loop it through the transformer block, and plug it into the #2 terminal on the ignition switch.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus="1"></div><div>If the tach works properly, then you're good. If it does not, then try looping the white wire through the transformer block in the opposite direction. If that still fails (but the engine runs properly), then abandon the transformer and use Nissonger's signal wire. As Gary says, that wire should be connected using a new extension wire to the coil negative terminal ( where the points connect ).</div><div><br></div><div><br data-mce-bogus="1"></div><div>Good luck,</div><div>Theo</div><hr id="zwchr" data-marker="__DIVIDER__"><div data-marker="__HEADERS__"><b>From: </b>"tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net><br><b>To: </b>"Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980@gmail.com><br><b>Cc: </b>"tigers" <Tigers@autox.team.net><br><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid<br></div><div><br></div><div data-marker="__QUOTED_TEXT__">The Signal wire should probably wire to<div>the points or low side of the coil.</div><div>The white wire should not end at the tach</div><div>but would do a one loop through the coil</div><div>pickup on the back of the stock tach and</div><div>then run to the ballast.</div><div>You do need 12v to the back of the tach</div><div>spade terminal and a ground.</div><div>Gary<br><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote>On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr">Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies. They have me on the right track now. In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach. My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics. I ohmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor. So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to that? <br><div>Thanks,</div><div>Joe Brown</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <<a href="mailto:fast427@sbcglobal.net" target="_blank">fast427@sbcglobal.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. <br>
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. <br>
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. <br>
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. <br>
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. <br>
<br>
>From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427<br>
Or 203-264-8301 home<br>
<br>
> On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net" target="_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Hey,<br>
> <br>
> I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question. When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up. But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies. It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. <br>
> <br>
> I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram. The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position. Is this correct? I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position. <br>
> <br>
> Any ideas?<br>
> <br>
> Thanks,<br>
> Joe Brown<br>
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