<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">Joe<div>I’m pretty familiar with wiring but in this case I hesitate to recommend how to change wiring without havi</div><div>G a partial schematic. </div><div>Might you have a schematic or a photo of the back of the Tach?</div><div>Coincidentally, Peter Bayer lens Nisongers and is a good friend so I can call him directly if I were able to see even a hand sketch of your relevant wiring. </div><div>Then, after a call to Peter. Ayer I might be able to offer a recommendation. </div><div>If it bothers the group to see all these emails you can contact me directly at fast427@sbcglobal.net</div><div>Don <br><br><div dir="ltr">From<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); "> Don's iPhone 203-592-8427</span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); ">Or 203-264-8301 home</span></div></div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Nov 20, 2019, at 5:29 PM, Joe Brown <jbbrown1980@gmail.com> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr">Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies. They have me on the right track now. In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach. My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics. I ohmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor. So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to that? <div><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><div>Joe Brown</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <<a href="mailto:fast427@sbcglobal.net" target="_blank">fast427@sbcglobal.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. <br>
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. <br>
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. <br>
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. <br>
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. <br>
<br>
From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427<br>
Or 203-264-8301 home<br>
<br>
> On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net" target="_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Hey,<br>
> <br>
> I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question. When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up. But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies. It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. <br>
> <br>
> I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram. The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position. Is this correct? I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position. <br>
> <br>
> Any ideas?<br>
> <br>
> Thanks,<br>
> Joe Brown<br>
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