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<DIV>It was 1976 when I rebuilt a 260..., but I vaguely recall the rope seal had
a spiked pin in the channel to hold the rope seal. If my recollection is
correct (suspect, so don’t count on it) is it possible that is keeping the new
seal (assumed rubber) from properly seating??? Do both halves display the same
offset, or is it only one. You didn’t say whether your kit had a rope or rubber
seal. I took a look at Rock Auto and they offer a number of seal in both types.
So, I assume kits may still come with either type.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Many of these companies have a tech hotline and email responses. That might
be the proper route over say..., some guys 41 year old vague memory.</DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=tigers@autox.team.net
href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">Ron Fraser via Tigers</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, January 22, 2019 8:09 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=jbbrown1980@gmail.com
href="mailto:jbbrown1980@gmail.com">'Joe Brown'</A> ; <A
title=tigers@Autox.Team.Net
href="mailto:tigers@Autox.Team.Net">tigers@Autox.Team.Net</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Tigers] Rear Main Seal Question</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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<P class=MsoNormal>Joe<o:p></o:p></P>
<P
class=MsoNormal>
I’m not the expert here but I believe that is correct.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal>I believe you need some compressive force on that seal to
obtain a proper seal to the crank.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal>If you have an engine builder in the area talk to
him.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>My edition of How to build a Small Block Ford states 13 ft
lbs of torque to turn the crankshaft with all the crank bearings
installed.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal>I don’t see a specific spec for this torque listed anywhere
so that is probably just a guide line.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>Seems to me some years ago I saw mentioned that Egge had a
better seal for the small block Ford but I don’t remember following up on that
information.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>Ron Fraser<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><B>From:</B> Tigers <tigers-bounces@autox.team.net>
<B>On Behalf Of </B>Joe Brown via Tigers<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, January 22,
2019 5:56 PM<BR><B>To:</B> Tigers Den
<Tigers@autox.team.net><BR><B>Subject:</B> [Tigers] Rear Main Seal
Question<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>Here is a question for you guys that are old hands at
rebuilding engines. I am putting my original 260 back together after it
came back from the machine shop and I am struggling a little bit with the
two-piece rear main seal that came with my FelPro gasket set. The
instructions say to insert one half of the seal into the block with about 3/8"
sticking up on one side. This should result in the other side being about 3/8"
below the edge of the block. The other half goes into the rear main cap
with the same offset so that it mates up with the half that is in the
block.<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="TEXT-ALIGN: right" align=right>My problem is that the
two halves of the seal seem to be too long. If I insert one half so that
3/8" is sticking up on side it is only about .2" down on the other side.
So I can't get the rear main cap to seat correctly. Is it common to have
to trim the two halves so that they will mate correctly? Or should I just
go buy another seal and hope it works better? (Thankfully I live just a
few miles from a Summit Racing warehouse)<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>Joe
Brown<o:p></o:p></P></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
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