<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">I put a pair of needle nose channel locks on one inside nut at a time while using a socket and short extension on the engine bay side.<div><br></div><div>The inside spring and the cup-bracket holding it in place usually gives me more trouble.</div><div><br></div><div>-Allan Ballard<br><br><div id="AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On Jul 13, 2018, at 1:11 PM, coolvt--- via Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div>
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<div><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; background-color: #ffffff;">Going way back in my memory, I think if the brake pedal is disconnected and swung out of the way, you should be able to get a socket on the nut / bolt from the inside while holding the nut from the outside with an open end wrench. Mark L <span style="font-size: 8pt;">(if you ever get in a jam and a combination wrench is too long, you can always choose a junk one and cut it in half:-)</span></span></div>
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In a message dated 7/13/2018 12:03:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, <a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a> writes:
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<div class="aolReplacedBody">I'm trying to replace the brake master cylinder on my 1966. I've spent three days trying to loosen the lower master cylinder retaining nut. I removed the cowl to fender brace trying to gain better access. I've tried wrenches, sockets, distributor wrenches, swivels, flexible shafts. I've tried it from inside the car as well. I can get a wrench or socket on the nut, but there is no room to turn either due to the master cylinder body, clutch master cylinder body and steering column. I really don't want to have to remove the steering column. Does anyone have any tips or suggestions before I sell the car?<br> <br> Richard</div>
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