<div dir="auto">Don't you guys think your over thinking this a bit. step on the gas that sets the choke, and start the dam tiger, as the choke warms up step on the gas again this will lower the fast idle speed on the choke cam. If you think the car is idling to fast at first unscrew the fast idle cam screw to oower idle. This method has worked fine on my tiger for 33 years. Beau 9470951</div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Oct 21, 2017 11:53 AM, <<a href="mailto:tigers-request@autox.team.net">tigers-request@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br type="attribution"><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Send Tigers mailing list submissions to<br>
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Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Re: Mechanical clatter- Friday AM Test (James Lindner)<br>
2. Re: Mechanical clatter- Friday AM Test (Tony Lang)<br>
3. Holley electric choke starting (snakebit289)<br>
4. Re: Holley electric choke starting (steve wick)<br>
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Message: 1<br>
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2017 16:51:17 -0400<br>
From: James Lindner <<a href="mailto:jliny5@cox.net">jliny5@cox.net</a>><br>
To: Ron Fraser <<a href="mailto:rfraser@bluefrog.com">rfraser@bluefrog.com</a>><br>
Cc: <a href="mailto:tigers@Autox.Team.Net">tigers@Autox.Team.Net</a><br>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mechanical clatter- Friday AM Test<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:7BAA8F30-6144-492F-87CF-681C3864CB8A@cox.net">7BAA8F30-6144-492F-87CF-<wbr>681C3864CB8A@cox.net</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Ron<br>
<br>
I like the laser idea using an infrared thermometer...I never thought of that. I have just been eyeballing it with string or some straight edge. Will give that a try and take a look.<br>
<br>
Jim<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPad<br>
<br>
> On Oct 20, 2017, at 4:45 PM, Ron Fraser <<a href="mailto:rfraser@bluefrog.com">rfraser@bluefrog.com</a>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> Jim<br>
> If you have a V belt pulley somewhere you could try to run the water pump and Gen separately with drill motor.<br>
><br>
> The SS water pump should have the hub pressed to the correct position but that dimension should always be measured to make sure.<br>
><br>
> I use a laser in the Gen pulley to make sure pulley alignment is good but you could put a small laser on any of the pulleys to check.<br>
><br>
> I use the laser on the infrared thermometer I have but there are better options for that job.<br>
><br>
> Ron Fraser<br>
><br>
> From: Tigers [mailto:<a href="mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net">tigers-bounces@autox.<wbr>team.net</a>] On Behalf Of James Lindner via Tigers<br>
> Sent: Friday, October 20, 2017 2:53 PM<br>
> To: Jay Laifman <<a href="mailto:jay.laifman@gmail.com">jay.laifman@gmail.com</a>><br>
> Cc: <a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a><br>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mechanical clatter- Friday AM Test<br>
><br>
> So here is the plan...<br>
><br>
> Another Local Tiger Guy is coming over tomorrow to add another set of eyes and ears. I can not find any evidence of contact by the fan but We will carefully inspect the area to look for any signs of fan contact at rest and with engine running with and without the belt. Hopefully, after that I can make a command decision on what to attack...likely the water pump.<br>
><br>
> I have a brand new water pump from SS sitting on the shelf. I am told the pumps from SS have the hub pressed down into the proper position. When we replace the pump I will also replace all the hoses since they are the ones that were put on when the car was restored 15 years ago. Those I will need to order.<br>
><br>
> Thanks for all the help and I will show the final resolution once all is complete...might take a little while to get it all done.<br>
><br>
> Jim<br>
><br>
> Sent from my iPad<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
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Message: 2<br>
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2017 23:01:10 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: Tony Lang <<a href="mailto:achd73@yahoo.com">achd73@yahoo.com</a>><br>
To: James Lindner <<a href="mailto:jliny5@cox.net">jliny5@cox.net</a>>, James Lindner via Tigers<br>
<<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a>>, "e.coiner e.coiner" <<a href="mailto:e.coiner@cox.net">e.coiner@cox.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mechanical clatter- Friday AM Test<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:165714763.1490056.1508540470595@mail.yahoo.com">165714763.1490056.<wbr>1508540470595@mail.yahoo.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
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Someone mentioned removing the fane and putting the belt back on. IMS an original water pump hub had studs and nuts attached the fan. I think my present Mk1 has bolts, not my install. Point being the bolts may be to long and hit the radiator, especially if the hub isn't pressed on correctly but if the fan is held in place with nuts, a good end wrench and nimble fingers will have it off in short order. At last it looks like your noise will soon be gone.<br>
<br>
Tony Lang (TtT)<br>
<br>
On ?Friday?, ?October? ?20?, ?2017? ?11?:?39?:?36? ?AM? ?CDT, e.coiner e.coiner via Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
Re install the belt and set the tension really low.<br>
<br>
<br>
Noise?<br>
<br>
<br>
Increase tension to normal and see if the noise is still there.<br>
<br>
<br>
Either way, I would be ordering a pump from SS.<br>
<br>
<br>
Erich<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On October 20, 2017 at 7:49 AM James Lindner via Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
Good Morning Listers<br>
<br>
Thanks for all the input. This morning I removed the fan belt...and voila...the noise disappeared. Video with sound is below. I had a before video also but it made the email too large.<br>
<br>
I made a checklist of yesterday?s input and here are the results:<br>
<br>
Pulley hubs: All secure, no wobble<br>
Spin fan & gen: No odd sounds...no contact with anything.<br>
Dipstick: Straight<br>
Fan & individual blades: Secure<br>
<br>
Water level: Perfect<br>
Gas: Shell 93 octane...always.<br>
<br>
So what do you think. The fan is not hitting anywhere. With the fanbelt off the timing chain would continue to run...but no noise. I think those results rule our fan contact and stretched timing chain.<br>
<br>
That leaves me with failing water pump. Although I am still a bit concerned that I did not hear any noisy bearings when I spun the fan or listened at the pump cover with the stethoscope.<br>
<br>
Your thoughts/ideas please.<br>
<br>
Thanks<br>
<br>
Jim<br>
<br>
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Message: 3<br>
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2017 04:12:21 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: snakebit289 <<a href="mailto:snakebit289@yahoo.com">snakebit289@yahoo.com</a>><br>
To: Tiger List <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: [Tigers] Holley electric choke starting<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:890099590.1584731.1508559141273@mail.yahoo.com">890099590.1584731.<wbr>1508559141273@mail.yahoo.com</a>><br>
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<br>
A question about starting a car from cold, with an electric choke Holley.<br>
Do you attempt to start the car the instant you switch on the ignition...or do you wait 10 seconds for the choke to set before cranking it over? I've gotten both scenarios from? Holley discussion groups. All I know is that at +50F, the 10 second rule seems to work better- at below that temp, nothing works well or consistantly. This is the carb on my '68 Cougar 302.<br>
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Message: 4<br>
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2017 14:45:12 +0000<br>
From: steve wick <<a href="mailto:srwick@hotmail.com">srwick@hotmail.com</a>><br>
To: snakebit289 <<a href="mailto:snakebit289@yahoo.com">snakebit289@yahoo.com</a>>, "<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a>"<br>
<<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley electric choke starting<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<<a href="mailto:CY4PR1201MB0101EC8DD64CC293D1E26CA9D8400@CY4PR1201MB0101.namprd12.prod.outlook.com">CY4PR1201MB0101EC8DD64CC293D1<wbr>E26CA9D8400@CY4PR1201MB0101.<wbr>namprd12.prod.outlook.com</a>><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
<br>
Think of it as the electric element is just replacing the hot air coming from the manifold stove. If you wait 10 seconds, the choke is already heating up and opening. What I did on a car I used to have was wire the choke power through a temperature switch (approx. 60 degrees IIRC) that I strapped to one of my heater hoses. When the water in the hose, or outside air temp, got to that temperature, the choke received power and started opening up. I didn't have to have a switch under the dash and remember to turn it on at a given time. It worked flawlessly for me.<br>
<br>
<br>
Steve<br>
<br>
<br>
______________________________<wbr>__<br>
From: Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net">tigers-bounces@autox.team.net</a><wbr>> on behalf of snakebit289 via Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2017 9:12 PM<br>
To: Tiger List<br>
Subject: [Tigers] Holley electric choke starting<br>
<br>
A question about starting a car from cold, with an electric choke Holley.<br>
<br>
Do you attempt to start the car the instant you switch on the ignition...or do you wait 10 seconds for the choke to set before cranking it over? I've gotten both scenarios from Holley discussion groups. All I know is that at +50F, the 10 second rule seems to work better- at below that temp, nothing works well or consistantly. This is the carb on my '68 Cougar 302.<br>
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End of Tigers Digest, Vol 9, Issue 278<br>
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