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<p>Stephen, that is a solid endorsement for leaf springs from someone who went all out. Have any photos uploaded of your set up Griggs racing build?</p>
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I've been visually going over the binding bit with standard poly mounts, and can't see how it wouldn't bind, and put abnormal stresses to rotate at frame and rear end mounts and possibly bend things. And yet, yes to the other comment, you want poly for street
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I like to learn/copy from others hence asking questions. For instance TCP has 3 levels of bolt in for classic camero/mustang. <a href="http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/gBar.html" class="OWAAutoLink" id="LPlnk254851" previewremoved="true">http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/gBar.html</a>.
Links with poly or pivot ball. What if rod ends were poly at one end (axel) and pivot ball or currie johnny joint <span style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif, EmojiFont, "Apple Color Emoji", "Segoe UI Emoji", NotoColorEmoji, "Segoe UI Symbol", "Android Emoji", EmojiSymbols; font-size: 16px;">the
other end (frame)</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif, EmojiFont, "Apple Color Emoji", "Segoe UI Emoji", NotoColorEmoji, "Segoe UI Symbol", "Android Emoji", EmojiSymbols; font-size: 16px;">? </span><a href="https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/currie-johnny-joint-rod-ends?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=johnny&sw=Currie%20Johnny%20Joint%20Rod%20Ends" class="OWAAutoLink" id="LPlnk617603" previewremoved="true">https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/currie-johnny-joint-rod-ends?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=johnny&sw=Currie%20Johnny%20Joint%20Rod%20Ends</a>
Seems like that would eliminate binding concerns and allow some vibration adsorbtion. <br>
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I've never built this before, not an expert, and am appreciative of the questions and feedback. All these systems have compromises. Everyone has a favorite. In the end though they are just simple geometry and forces. </div>
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BTW someone suggested to talk to Dale, thought his car might be a 4 link. The photos on his web site indicate it is Leaf, solid traction masters, a torque arm, and a watt's link. Photo here select "Dale's Black Tiger" <a href="http://www.dalesresto.com/Projects/index.php" class="OWAAutoLink" id="LPlnk611179" previewremoved="true">http://www.dalesresto.com/Projects/index.php</a>
Seems like both torque arm and solid traction master are redundant, however someone would also say they might be redundant to a really stiff leaf spring as well.</div>
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Please continue to provide constructive thoughts or suggestions.</div>
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dan <br>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, October 13, 2017 12:07 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Larry Mayfield; Tiger List; daniel doornbos<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Tigers] Anyone built a 4 link rear suspension for their tiger?</font>
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<div>I would not go to the triangulated 4 link. It is an inherently over constrained design, prone to binding beyond the flex provided by the bushings and some unsettling behavior when operating at those limits. It's not as glaring of a binding situation as
the front sway bar design, but it's not a great suspension design. A parallel 4-link w/ panhard or watts link is much, much better. For the precise axle control, low unsprung weight, and no binding, consider trailing arms, a torque arm and watts link. Not
the cheapest approach.. but about the best handling setup for live rear axles.</div>
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<div>Having done all that to my car by Griggs Racing, I recommend just going with stock setup and Dan Walters torque arm and enjoy the drive.</div>
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<div><span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,clean,sans-serif">Best regards,</span><br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica,clean,sans-serif">Stephen Waybright<br>
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<div>On Friday, October 13, 2017, 12:39:34 AM CDT, daniel doornbos via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net> wrote:
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