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<DIV>One also needs to factor in tire size into the ratio equation. Changing the
tire diameter (and thus the circumference) is that same as changing gear
ratios. Some Tiger owners will run 165 or 175–70–13” tires and some will
run 2XX- 50ish-16” tires. I’ve not run the numbers but it could be that a
close ratio and short 13” tires isn’t a whole lot different in 1st gear than a
wide ratio and a tall 16” tire. I’ll probably mutter this to the day I
die, why isn’t there an industry standard that factors trans, rear end <U>and
tire size</U>, something like ‘engine revolutions per mile’ and a recommended
“window” based on engine torque? It just seems so logical for matching the three
properly.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Some other things to ponder while on the transmission subject:</DIV>
<DIV>1. Toploaders are not cheap. A quick check on Ebay has them in the
$1,000-$2,500 range and most are closer to the higher end. At an outright
replacement it probably runs in the T-5 cost range.</DIV>
<DIV>2. However..., even the WC T-5 is now 30 years in existence. For the frugal
minded just try finding one at Pick A Part - at all, much less that doesn’t have
the longer input shaft and or other oddities that make the early WC T-5 trans
desirable for a Tiger. If co$t isn’t important I believe the Ford Motorsport
2.95 trans is still available.</DIV>
<DIV>3. Has anyone adapted the Tremec 5 speed with the external shifter
(2005-2010 4.0 Mustang)? It would seem little fabrication is needed to
position the shifter where needed. This would seem to eliminate rare or costly
adaptations. The down side is a 3.75 1st, flange mounted driveshaft and possible
input shaft length issues. Just when one problem gets solved others pop
up. I wonder if the tailshafts swap???</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I agree with most, if you have a wide ratio Toploader it is the most
PRACTICAL way to go. Just find the tallest tires you can fit in the rear
wheel wells (205-70-14” or 15” ???), mount them on cheap, steel wheels (they
becoming your “$100 overdrive”). Then drive to the long distance Tiger events.
Swap out your regular wheels (one of which can be your spare) once there. Less
noise, less gas, less cost.</DIV>
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<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=tigers@autox.team.net
href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">Smit, Theo via Tigers</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, December 28, 2016 8:29 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=cliffomorgan@gmail.com
href="mailto:cliffomorgan@gmail.com">Cliff Morgan</A> ; <A
title=tigers@autox.team.net href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">Tigers List</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Tigers] ideal toploader gears for a
Tiger</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV
style='FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV>(Adding the list back in because I am pretty sure Cliff wanted it that
way)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The other thing to remember is that even the “wide” ratio Toploader, with
its 2.78 first, is closer in ratios from first to fourth than the Z spec T5
(with a 2.95 first). A light(er) car like the Tiger can generally get away with
a closer set of ratios without making it unduly hard to drive.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Theo</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV><SPAN id=OLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid; FONT-FAMILY: calibri; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; COLOR: black; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; TEXT-ALIGN: left; PADDING-TOP: 3pt; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in"><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From: </SPAN>Cliff Morgan <<A
href="mailto:cliffomorgan@gmail.com">cliffomorgan@gmail.com</A>><BR><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Date: </SPAN>Tuesday, December 27, 2016 at 9:04
PM<BR><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To: </SPAN>"Smit, Theo" <<A
href="mailto:theo.smit@garmin.com">theo.smit@garmin.com</A>><BR><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject: </SPAN>Re: [Tigers] ideal toploader gears for
a Tiger<BR></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr>Jim, I have changed my close ratio gears to wide ratio on my MK
I. I did this because with the high rear end ratio, the wide ratio gears
are more responsive for street driving. Theo gives some good information
and there is a lot of info to describe the differences and uses. My
dilemma was (is) whether to stick with the 4 speed or go with a five
speed. At this point I am sticking with the 4 speed and wide ratio
gears. Good luck with your build. Cliff</DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_extra>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>On Tue, Dec 27, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Smit, Theo via Tigers
<SPAN dir=ltr><<A href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"
target=_blank>tigers@autox.team.net</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid">
<DIV
style="WORD-WRAP: break-word; FONT-SIZE: 14px; FONT-FAMILY: calibri,sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">
<DIV>There are two “standard” ratio sets, close and wide, as listed at David
Kee’s site: <A href="http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/torqueandgear.htm"
target=_blank>http://www.<WBR>davidkeetoploaders.com/<WBR>torqueandgear.htm</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>There were also many extra close ratios, mainly used in road race
applications. I would expect that these are going to be very expensive to get,
and not really of any improved purpose for your application. They’re listed
here: <A
href="http://www.4speedtoploaders.com/new/white_stripe_toploaders.htm"
target=_blank>http://www.<WBR>4speedtoploaders.com/new/<WBR>white_stripe_toploaders.htm</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If you have already decided you want the “wide” gears then there’s not
much else to discuss. The only thing I would recommend is you get a new
light(er) weight flywheel. DavidKee has the 24 pound, 157 tooth steel flywheel
as well as a 13 pound 157 tooth flywheel listed. A billet steel or aluminum
flywheel is a substantial safety improvement over an original cast iron
flywheel and the reduced inertia will improve how your car leaves traffic
lights without making it unnecessarily hard to drive.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Theo</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV><SPAN id=m_-2347189640167697567OLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid; FONT-FAMILY: calibri; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; COLOR: black; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; TEXT-ALIGN: left; PADDING-TOP: 3pt; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in"><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From: </SPAN>Tigers <<A
href="mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net"
target=_blank>tigers-bounces@autox.team.net</A><WBR>> on behalf of Tigers
List <<A href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"
target=_blank>tigers@autox.team.net</A>><BR><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Reply-To: </SPAN>"<A href="mailto:Rollright@aol.com"
target=_blank>Rollright@aol.com</A>" <<A href="mailto:Rollright@aol.com"
target=_blank>Rollright@aol.com</A>><BR><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Date: </SPAN>Tuesday, December 27, 2016 at 12:57
PM<BR><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To: </SPAN>Tigers List <<A
href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"
target=_blank>tigers@autox.team.net</A>><BR><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject: </SPAN>[Tigers] ideal toploader gears for a
Tiger<BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV class=h5>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV id=m_-2347189640167697567role_body
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial; COLOR: #000000"><FONT
id=m_-2347189640167697567role_document color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>
<DIV>My Transmission is on it way to be rebuilt and have wide ratio gears
installed.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>What are the ideal ratios that I should be looking for with a stock ratio
rear end?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks in advance.
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 size=2 face=Arial>Jim Armstrong<BR>382002083<BR>Mk
1A<BR>code 86<BR>TAC #
0763</FONT></DIV></DIV></FONT></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></SPAN><BR>
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