<html><head><style type='text/css'>p { margin: 0; }</style></head><body><div style='font-family: arial,helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000'>Hi mayf,<div>For number 5, take a steel tube (5/16 or 3/8) and solder a small brass compression ferrule over the end to create a barb-like obstruction for your hose clamp.<div><br></div><div>The original temp sensor is threaded 5/8 straight (fine?) and so it only fits into the OEM manifold or one that you've threaded for that purpose. I made a T adapter out of a small aluminum block, threaded 3/8 pipe on one end of the run, 5/8 straight on the other, and 3/8 pipe on the side, and threaded that into the (Edelbrock) intake manifold so the heater connection goes to it, and I also got temp sensing. If you have a replacement sensor that is 3/8 pipe then you can use standard brass pipe fittings unless you want to have OEM appearance.</div><div><br></div><div>I make solid-state voltage stabilizers and Tom Hall sells them; they cost more than 8.95 though... It's not based on a LM317 and not adjustable; but it does have an integrated low-voltage LED that is possibly more useful than the original lamp circuit, if you are running an alternator that doesn't have the charge light output.</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div>Theo<br><br><hr id="zwchr"><div style="color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><b>From: </b>"Larry Mayfield via Tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net><br><b>To: </b>"Tiger List" <tigers@autox.team.net><br><b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, September 20, 2016 5:12:01 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>[Tigers] Here I go again...<br><br><style><!--
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--></style><img src="cid:image001.jpg@01D21358.C27DA670" width="0" height="0" class="shape" style="display:none;width:0;height:0"><div class="WordSection1"><p class="MsoNormal">Ok some basic acquisition of parts questions: </p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">1.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>Engine temp sensor</p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">2.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>Map light assembly that is installed over the glove box</p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">3.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>Ahh, and now the hard ones… that small cast iron T fitting in the heater line that the temp gauge sensor screws into and feeds hot water to the carb heater spacer. And the copper one, a dual size T fitting, that joins the carb heater water back with the cabin heater water and puts it back into the motor. I am sure I have both of these somewhere in my ‘pile’ but where to start looking. I know I have a replacement carb spacer. </p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">4.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>The girling or suitable rebuild kist for the clutch slave and clutch master cylinders. CAT is out of them. Vicky Brit has them but alternates are good to have. Pegasus has them once you figure out what the bore diameters are. </p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">5.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>Another one – the fuel line that comes from the rubber hose joint that lives underneath the generator and feeds the filter at the carb. I could make one but need something with a barb on it to feel completely comfortable. Source of tube? I know I can buy 5/16 tube at the local parts places but need that pesky brab on the end. </p><p class="MsoNormal"> </p><p class="MsoNormal">Note: I found the voltage stabilizer for the MG in VB. Looks exactly like what I have. Cost is $8.95. Waiting for reply from Tom Hall on stabilizer. And I have a schematic for one built some time ago. It has a pot that allows for adjustment of volts to correct small discrepancies. Uses LM317 device. I may have that, need to look. </p><p class="MsoNormal"> </p><p class="MsoNormal">Any help out there on 1 – 5? Need sources and links or email addy so I can contact the supplier.</p><p class="MsoNormal"> </p><p class="MsoNormal">mayf</p><p class="MsoNormal"> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">_________________________<br>drmayf<br>Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.<br>204.913 mph flying mile<br>210.779 mph exit (not top) speed</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"> </p></div><br>_______________________________________________<br><br>tigers@autox.team.net<br><br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca<br><br><br></div><br></div></div></div></body></html>