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<DIV>If you are going to use a 2 post you definitely want to get advice from the
manufacturer regarding slab thickness. My guess is you'll be told a
minimum of 6" reinforced concrete where the posts attach. In my case I
asked around local repair shops for the name of the company that did repair work
on their shop lifts. One guy's name (a man in business for himself) came
up a few times. I hired him and worked with him to install. Best $250 I
ever spent. He said he had installed more than 100 in his career with zero
failures so I felt pretty safe. Mark L</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 1/29/2016 5:40:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
tigers@autox.team.net writes:</DIV>
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style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>
<DIV>The point of concern for the two post lift is typically the concrete.
I have no concerns about my 2 post for storage. Of course I have a very
thick concrete pad. If I had a four inch thick pad I would be concerned. Lifts
are awesome to work on cars. Although while I store cars on my two post lift
during the winter. Working underneath it gives me the heeby jeebies if I'm
using any real torque or big tools. Working on the suspension does not scare
me.</DIV>
<DIV id=AppleMailSignature><BR></DIV>
<DIV id=AppleMailSignature>Funny story. Back in the 70's a friend of ours had
a two post lift he used in his mechanic shop. He too used a 4x4 to help hold
the lift up in an "emergency" in addition to the safety locks. He went to help
a customer and one of his techs went to lower the lift with an original 289
cobra on it. He slightly raised the lift to remove the safety catch, the 4x4
tipped to be underneath the car and when he lowered the lift the car tilted
and then slid off the lift landing between the posts on its side.
Ouch!!<BR><BR>Sent from my mobile device</DIV>
<DIV><BR>On Jan 29, 2016, at 3:01 PM, Jay Laifman via Tigers <<A
title=mailto:tigers@autox.team.net
href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</A>>
wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
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<DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr>:-) I have spent many an hour under cars on
jackstands. On hindsight, in California, not a good idea. I now
almost exclusively use ramps if I can. If I can't, I ALWAYS have
something bigger than me under there too. I have this large, long
block of wood that some contractors left once. It's added
protection. I put all wheels under too - including all the jack stands
and floor jacks under there.
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Funny you mention sore arms. There are many times when I've been
under a car working away on my back when my arms just burn from holding them
up for too long.<BR>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>I bought my lift solely for car storage purposes. Being able to
work under cars is just an added benefit. For me, in suburbia with a
tight HOA, I have my existing garage space, with no option to build out a
wider, longer garage. So if I wanted more cars in the garage, they had
to go up.</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_extra><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 1:46 PM, Tom Witt via Tigers
<SPAN dir=ltr><<A title=mailto:tigers@autox.team.net
href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"
target=_blank>tigers@autox.team.net</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR>
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<DIV>There would be a difference between a car falling off a lift (or the
lift vertically collapsing)..., and the lift falling (tilting) over with
the car still firmly attached. It would seem the floor structure for
a two post lift needs to be seismically substantial as compared to a four
post lift. I don’t think the issue is the two post lift collapsing
(vertically) as much as it is simply falling (tilting front-back) with the
failure at the floor attachment. Tripods have at least three legs
for a reason.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>As a lifetime suburbanite I struggle to comprehend the need for a
lift. Are there really that many places that are width/depth
challenged and yet have substantial height to elevate the car – especially
for stacked parking? If you are replacing exhaust systems, brakes,
transmissions on a daily basis sure they make sense. Maybe it is just my
perpetually bad back, but having to stand, look up and work with arms up
seems like torture compared to putting a car on jackstands and lying on
the floor to work. A sheet of foam core makes a nice, cushioning
insulator. </DIV>
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<DIV><B>From:</B> <A title=mailto:tigers@autox.team.net
href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net" target=_blank>CoolVT--- via Tigers</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, January 29, 2016 12:38 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=mailto:lwright@impactoffice.com
href="mailto:lwright@impactoffice.com"
target=_blank>lwright@impactoffice.com</A> ; <A
title=mailto:tigers@autox.team.net href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"
target=_blank>tigers@autox.team.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Tigers] 2-post versus 4-post
Lifts</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV
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<DIV>Figure a Tiger at 2500 lbs. on a 9000lb rated lift. Should be
pretty secure. The guy who installed mine said they are actually tested at
twice the rated capacity. I think as long as the Tiger isn't shaken off
the lift then it's a pretty good bet that the lift won't collapse. </DIV>
<DIV>Mark L</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 1/29/2016 3:13:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, <A
title=mailto:tigers@autox.team.net href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"
target=_blank>tigers@autox.team.net</A> writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial> I'm sure all the West-coasters have been
through it all before and shrug it off, but I was a couple of miles from
home when I experienced our one significant earthquake, eh, 5 years ago
-- and the first thing I thought of was the Tiger sitting on the lift in
the garage. Came home, opened the door, all was well. 4-post lift. MAYBE
someone can convince me that a 2-post is as stable under such
circumstances...<BR><BR>Larry Wright<BR>Seabrook,
MD<BR>_______________________________________________<BR><BR><A
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