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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546A'>Drilling works OK for most higher HP Tigers, although I had to resort to chaining the engine on one car as the countersunk bolts pulled through the metal plate after a suitable amount of abuse. I’d recommend using no bigger than a 5/16” CS bolt, a 3/8” requires too big a countersink in the thin upper plate. A Grade 8 ¼” will also work unless you’re banging more than 350hp.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546A'>Two tricks: drill the countersink hole to size, but drill the backside hole and rubber at least 1/8” larger in diameter. This is to allow the mount to move around without constantly pulling on the bolts. Second, drill the holes at about 10° angle from perpendicular, the mount will sag down some when the weight of the engine is on the mount.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546A'>If you don’t do these two things the mount will sag enough to put the bolts into constant tension and you wind up with a mostly solid mount causing a lot of vibration to be transmitted to the chassis.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546A'>Have fun.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546A'>Bugz<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Tigers [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Brad Huff via Tigers<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, April 04, 2015 9:01 PM<br><b>To:</b> tigers@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [Tigers] motor mount reinforcement<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>Just checking to see if anyone has drilled through and bolted their motor mounts to prevent separation and the accompanying damage to their fan shroud and hood. If so what method did you use. 1) drilling through the plates, countersinking the heads of the grade 8 bolts and simply a washer and nylock nut clamped tight on the backside or 2) a similar procedure differing only in that you would drill a slightly larger hole on the exit side and under the clamping washer place a neoprene washer to isolate the bolt, washer, and nut slightly from the top plate to minimize vibration issues. Is this over thinking the problem, that is, is the vibration caused by the through bolts even that big of an issue? Thanks to all in advance.-Brad<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div></body></html>