[Tigers] exchange door locking devices

[M Lafayette]

I haven't had any of my locks apart, so not sure of the following. If the "keyway" ( the place where you slide the key in ) is the same for all locks, any locksmith should be able to repin the cylinders to match whatever key you provide.  It's possible that it could be set up so that only one key is needed for all locks.  Again, not sure if all keyways are the same on a Tiger.  If they are the only question for the purist is finding blanks that match the originals exactly. And I think 2 different blanks were used on the original cars.....one with a squared off head and one with a more rounded or oval head.

In a message dated 10/24/2024 12:23:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tigers at autox.team.net writes: 

Except as has been pointed out, I evidently have the wrong tumblers in my doors.  Anyone have any for sale?

B382000331
On 10/24/2024 10:19 AM, Gary Winblad wrote:So, here is how you could restore a Tiger's locks:Get the original key codes from the BON or british certificate place or from the back of your locks. Buy the correct keys.Here is one place you can order keys with the key code:https://www.replacementkeys.co.uk Take the keys and locks to a locksmith that has a box of pins and get him to fix the locks. Should be easy? Gary 
On Wed, Oct 23, 2024 at 4:12 PM M Lafayette via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
RE pins.  Anyone who works on locks will generally  have an assortment of pins  75+ of various sizes.  No need to file down or leave out.  Standard pins have a slightly rounded top surface which makes it easier to insert and remove key.  A filed pin will work,but can cause the key to catch.
Attached is shown the pin assortment that is typically on hand.
In a message dated 10/23/2024 4:54:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tigers at autox.team.net writes: 

"Can anyone recommend a topnotch Sunbeam lock and key person?"

Sunbeam specific..., likely they are all under the soil in the mother country by now. However there are probably a craftsmen or two out there - somewhere. Hopefully some knows.


While some may consider this barbaric I have done the following out of necessity. Locks typically have either pins or wafers.

Pins: I will insert the key and play around with the pins until I find those that come flush with the rotating tumbler. Sometimes pins can be doubled up to meet that height. Other times I have filed pins to meet that height.  Generally there are also non-rotating, opposing pins in the housing. Any tumbler pin that doesn't come flush I leave it and its opposing pin out. While this lessens the strength of the lock to rotation it still offers a degree of a locking effect (better than nothing).

Wafers: I find them easier. I will juggle them around so that with the key inserted there is the least degree of wafer height outside the tumbler. Then whatever remains outside the tumbler circumference I file off. Again, this lessens the strength of the lock to rotation but still offers a degree of a locking effect.

So, if all else fails.., this is at least a functional option and given that historically locking was not a primary consideration you would gain something even if not full strength. The free spinning lock seems like it has no pins or wafers. The key that jams I'm not sure if you mean on insertion, or once inserted it wouldn't rotate. That could be corrosion/dirt or just the wrong key for the pin/wafer configuration.
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