[Tigers] Overheating - May 3 test

Thu May 3 16:27:13 MDT 2018

Well, no one can fault you for not trying. A very comprehensive test.

I know this has been long running so forgive me if this has been said before. The holes on the left and right of the radiator have been found to bleed back air already passed through the radiator to recirculate at idle. People have made block off plates to prevent this from happening. I’d think that cardboard and tape would suffice for testing.

I’ve also heard that air passing under the car (at speed) impedes air getting out of the engine compartment.  The black garden edging, round on one end has been used to make an air dam that mounts to sway bar.  The round portion is slit at the top and slipped over the bar. Then slots are cut just under the round part for hose clamps to pass through to secure the edging to the bar.  The theory is that the air passes around rather than under the car and the negative pressure draws the hot engine compartment air out.

Does this work? Will this help? Who knows? But it is relatively easy and wouldn’t take too much time. As with any modification, do at your own risk.

Lastly, if originality isn’t important (at least for testing) the older German cars like Audi, BMW etc. typically have a plastic expansion tank. At a self serve wrecking yard, they are probably $10-ish. You might find something that is adaptable if going that route is an eventual path.

From: Joel Martin via Tigers 
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 8:03 AM
To: Tiger List Serve 
Subject: [Tigers] Overheating - May 3 test

Still trying one thing at a time.

Parts used:

Carb is a Holly 4160C part number 0-80457S, main jet .064 with RED accelerator pump cam
Distributor AI65 Petronix for Ford dual point distributor with VAC advance
AI58PT Petronix coil

SS - AI51T Tiger distributor cap for correct look
MSD 6AL mounted in trunk
Motorcraft spark plugs BSF42C
SS - TM32 water pump - aluminum type
Custom LAT hood with large hood scope in front of radiator
Oversize recored cooper/brass radiator - about 5 inches taller than stock
No expansion tank

Custom made fan shroud 

Fan 14" 6 blade 

Fan spacer places fan 1- 3/8" from radiator
Fan sits 1/2" INSIDE from back of shroud

2 - 8" electric fans - not used on this test - manual off/on switch

Test:
160 degree thermostat starts to open on stove at 165, fully open at 175 - 1/8" hole drilled
Outside temp about 65 degrees
Cold car - jack up front of car to top of floor jack
13 pound radiator cap
Pull intake manfold to heater valve hose into bucket to bleed any air
Reattached heater valve hose - about 1 pint allowed out of hose
Remember both heater valve hoses are plugged due to 3 leaking heater valves
Top up radiator with water.
Petronix distributor is pulling too much vac when attached so the vac line at distributor was removed and plugged with a golf tee

Timing with vac advance line pulled and plugged is
14 degrees at idle 950 rpm's
25 at 1500
27 at 2000
29 at 2500
30 at 3000
Consensus is: this a little slow but would not cause overheating.
Different opinions from the knowledge folks on when, how fast and max with vac adv on and vac adv off or not use vac adv distributors at all.

Timing with vac advance attached is:
16 degrees at idle 950 rpm's
27 at 1500
forgot to record at 2000
53 at 2500
57 at 3000
This is way too much based on discussion - so for this test and future - vac adv is removed and plugged

Closed hood and went for a drive at about 35-40 MPH - still in neighborhood - highway about 3.5 miles away - too chicken to get too far from house.  Maintained 3000 rpms in second or third.

Temperature stays at about 190 degrees while moving starting out

Stop for less than 30 seconds - temperature goes up to 200 

Drive at speed again temperature goes down about 2 degrees
Stop before going back into garage for less than 30 seconds - temp goes up to 210
Shut off car

Some coolant out of overflow tube (after heat soak kicks at about 225), none from drive as no coolant trail down driveway and into garage and probably leaking from thermostat since I pulled and tested.

Radiator temperatures with infared gun immediately after shutting off engine.
Upper radiator tank:
Drivers side - 211 degrees
Middle - 213 degrees
Passenger side 207 degrees

Radiator LOWER as shot from front around badge bar:
Drivers side - 198 degrees
Middle - 196 degrees
Passenger side 197 degrees

Radiator MIDDLE as shot from front around badge bar:
Drivers side - 181 degrees
Middle - 204 degrees
Passenger side 200 degrees

Header temperatures:
Passenger side number 1:  359
Number 2: 327
Number 3: 305
Number 4: 312

Drivers side number 5:  275
Number 6: 297

Number 7: 266

Number 8: 281

So with tested 160 degree thermostat with 1/8" hole and air out of system, I believe
and vac adj hose removed and plugged, the same result of heating up 10 degrees with each 30 second stop still in play.

So air flow or water flow or timing(not perfect, would have to change weights in distributor and determine vac adv issue) or air fuel mixture (change primary jets to .066 and move to PINK pump cam at 30CC)

Some school of thought:  fix or replace 200 mile distributor and make air flow changes changes first.
Change out water pump - make and model
Change out radiator to Griffin or Fluidyne stock style with larger surface space since I have room based on custom LAT option hood.  Then go with shroud and electric fan on engine side removing existing mechanical fan or keep existing mechanical fan and not use electric fan.

What to do with custom shroud if keep the existing mechanical fan.

Either way regarding fans, I would need an original expansion tank to go with a possible new radiator.

Your ideas and thoughts are always appreciated.

My head hurts and I am going large mouth bass fishing and beers before happy hour.

Sincerely 

Joel Martin

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