[Tigers] Pertronix Ignition

Wed Oct 18 08:29:19 MDT 2017

Pertronix 1          install diagram and troubleshoot chart

Ignitor attaches after the ballast resistor

The current Pertronix coil may be full time 12V but I have not looked at that.

Ron Fraser

From: Tigers [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Witt via Tigers
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 10:55 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pertronix Ignition

Not as I understand how the Pertronix works. At least the Pertronix I (original).  The Pertronix itself is wired to 12 volts + (usually at the ignition switch) and operates continuously at that nominal voltage. The ballast resistor is still needed because the coil, as designed, is associated with it.  This does not preclude that one may have an aftermarket true 12 volt coil that does not need a resistor. But, if the coil is designed to have the resistor then it is still needed. If the Pertronix is wired on the resistive end of the stock circuit then it is improper and yes the voltage will drop with potential problems. 

A common misunderstood aspect of the Pertronix is that it feeds the positive voltage to the coil. No.  What it is really doing is creating a (momentary) path to ground just like a set of points does.  Thus, the 12 volt + is not going through the Pertronix and triggering the coil. The 12 volts + is the  necessary operating voltage to trigger the electronics to momentarily ground the coil. In essence it is still an “old school” circuit design with a modern method of triggering it.  I too thought at one time that the Pertronix was a 12 volt + coil triggering device. But, when it came time for me to install it I was set straight after reading the instructions.

From: Mark Rense via Tigers <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>  

Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 3:31 PM

To: tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>  

Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pertronix Ignition

Of course if you are running a Pertronix or other electronic ignition then there is no ballast resistor. If you have one when it gets warm you are dropping the voltage to the electronics down to a threshold triggering point which will cause shutoff. 

On Tue, Oct 17, 2017 at 12:44 PM Jay Laifman via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Ditto on looking for the bad crimped connection.  To my knowledge, Petronix problem mode is simply total failure and done.  No stumbling, rough running, or spotty issues.  

On Mon, Oct 16, 2017 at 7:27 PM, Andy Walker via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net> > wrote:

James: 

I read your post and Ron’s answer regarding the possibility of a problem with the ballast resistor.  I have experienced the same issue that you are having, only mine was with a standard point-type ignition.  The car would run just fine with no hint of a problem; all of a sudden, it would quit just like someone had turned off the key.  

As it turned out in my situation, however, it wasn’t the resistor that was the problem, but the wiring connecting to the resistor.  The previous owner had done some wiring work and had failed to crimp the connector down on one of the wires coming from the ballast resistor.  The end result was when the wiring and resistor would heat up, the wire would arc off the connector, thereby shutting the ignition down instantaneously.  Once it cooled off, the wire would lay back down into position and it would start back up.  Moral of the story…check all of your connections in the ignition circuit for loose wires or bad connections before getting too far into other things.  It very well could be as easy as that.

Keep us posted,

Andy Walker

Edmond, OK

From: Tigers [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> ] On Behalf Of James Burruss via Tigers
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 2:35 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Tigers] Pertronix Ignition

On a Saturday drive, my Tiger’s engine shut off instantly as if the ignition key had been turned off.  It would not restart.  I suspected that the car’s Pertronix II ignition had died, as they have been known to do.  Mine had been reliable for several years, although the car is not driven often any more.  I had the car taken home on a rollback.

This morning, I began a series of checks.  I ruled out the ignition switch as a possible culprit because the starter, gauges and fuel pump all worked.  I checked the wiring connections, coil resistance, voltage to the coil, and even fuel in the carburetor; all were fine.  So I connected an induction timing light to confirm that there was no spark – except that there was!  Then I got in the car and started it.  It ran fine.

Which brings me to my question for those who have experience with these ignition systems:  Are they known to become intermittent due to heat?  Saturday was a warm day, mid-80s, the car had been driven moderately for about 10 miles and its temperature was normal.   Needless to say, I no longer trust this system; but I would appreciate knowledgeable comments and/or recommendations for a replacement ignition for a stock 260.

Many thanks!

Jim Burruss   

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