[Tigers] Pertronix Ignition

[Ron Fraser]

Jim

                I've been running a Pertronix ignition with no problems for
over 30 years.   The one time I had a failure like yours was going to Big
Sky SUNI - coil failed; fortunately the last spare part I packed for the
trip was a Ford yellow top coil.   Drove to Buffalo Wyoming to buy a spare
coil just in case.

 

I have heard that some Pertronix ignition modules have had problems but I
don't know how to check them maybe somewhere on the internet.

  

Always check all the wire connections of the ignition.

 

The coil connection posts should be at a low point to keep any air bubble in
the coil away from those posts.

 

Another possibility I've heard of is the ballast resistor sometimes gets
loose, heats up, moves and contacts ground which immediately shuts off the
ignition.  When it cools - it works again.   Upon a failure you could bypass
the ballast resistor and put a constant 12v to the coil or carry a spare
ballast resistor to determine if it is the cause of the problem.   It would
be best to find the exact cause of the failure.

 

I believe Accel has a similar ignition module but I have not tracked how
well it works.

 

Points and condenser are always your fallback position.

 

Ron Fraser

 

From: Tigers [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James
Burruss via Tigers
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 3:35 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Pertronix Ignition

 

On a Saturday drive, my Tiger's engine shut off instantly as if the ignition
key had been turned off.  It would not restart.  I suspected that the car's
Pertronix II ignition had died, as they have been known to do.  Mine had
been reliable for several years, although the car is not driven often any
more.  I had the car taken home on a rollback.

 

This morning, I began a series of checks.  I ruled out the ignition switch
as a possible culprit because the starter, gauges and fuel pump all worked.
I checked the wiring connections, coil resistance, voltage to the coil, and
even fuel in the carburetor; all were fine.  So I connected an induction
timing light to confirm that there was no spark - except that there was!
Then I got in the car and started it.  It ran fine.

 

Which brings me to my question for those who have experience with these
ignition systems:  Are they known to become intermittent due to heat?
Saturday was a warm day, mid-80s, the car had been driven moderately for
about 10 miles and its temperature was normal.   Needless to say, I no
longer trust this system; but I would appreciate knowledgeable comments
and/or recommendations for a replacement ignition for a stock 260.

 

Many thanks!

 

Jim Burruss   

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