[Tigers] voltage regulator- Don's suggestions

Fri Sep 23 22:55:38 MDT 2016

When I originally got my Tiger in 1998, the PO's mechanic had screwed the stabilizer into the back of the (wooden) dash panel, with the predictable result that the gauges read high especially when the gauge level was high. I then attached the stabilizer to the dash mounting rail as originally intended but this still didn't give consistent response, so then I went to a solid state  regulator and really haven't looked back since. The IC I use in the ones I and Tom sell is the LM2940, which is designed for automotive use and has built in protection for a variety of common automotive electrical transients. In addition I put in a low voltage detector that turns on a LED when the voltage gets below about 12.6 volts, so that the one wire alternator conversions would still get a status indication. 

I'm sure that Joe P put at least as much thought into the stabilizer he sells and I think either one will do exactly what you need. 

Cheers,
Theo

> On Sep 23, 2016, at 9:37 PM, Larry Mayfield via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Well, today I took one of the Voltage Stabilizers apart. No not the one in the car but one from an old Alpine.  Folks, the design and implementation are NOT rocket science, lol. The internals look as described in the shop manual. But everything is on a miniscule scale. The post where the input power is applied is the attachment for a u shaped piece that goes around a binding post for the wire coil inside. The input post is like one leg of the letter U. The other leg has the absolutely dinky points.  And that leg is wrapped with wire that makes a hair look large by comparison (artistic license taken here, but it is very small).   The U shaped piece is very very thin.  After looking at it and fiddling with it, I still do not see exactly how it works. I suspect that the heater wire is non functional though. I’ll measure tomorrow…
>  
> Now, as I keep mentioning, I am no sparky. Electrical stuff makes me want to scream loudly. But I see that there are lots of voltage regulators on ebay and I have in the past purchased and used some of them. Most are PWM motor supplies but can be dial in to deliver a regulated voltage.  Mast are dirt cheap coming from you know where. Seems to me that one of these would also work if it is just 10 volts out put that is needed. Heck there might even be an Arduino board that would do the trick also.  What about a 10 volt dc-dc power supply? 
>  
> Thoughts?
>  
> mayf
>  
> From: Don Antilla [mailto:fast427 at sbcglobal.net] 
> Sent: Friday, September 23, 2016 9:30 AM
> To: drmayf at mayfco.com
> Subject: voltage regulator- Don's suggestions
>  
> Hi Mayf:
>  Gary suggested I send you my thoughts.
> Regards,
> Don Antilla
>  
>  
> On 9/22/16, 12:02 PM, "Don Antilla" <fast427 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>  
> Gary:
> These are simple devices as you most probably know.
> The theory is that the duty cycle of the contacts  open/closed is preset 
> so an average of around 7-10 volts (forgot which, but not important to this part of the troubleshooting) is achieved over a longer sample period.
> Since the original Ford gauges react slowly by design on order to not have 
> a jittery pointer, they are intentionally designed as thermal gauges that 
> heat up slightly as a function of the average 12/0/12/0/12… volt 
> open/closed points.
> Since there is no significant energy that needs to be dissipated when the 
> instruments are powered by the open/closed bimetal strip, there is no 
> benefit to add any capacitor to the circuit. The points open/closing do 
> not even bother the old fashioned radios in almost all cases.
>  
> I’ve been reading the posts and I should add that one of the more common 
> causes of it not working is failure to properly GROUND the case of the 
> mini regulator./ You must ground it because the incoming 12 volts that 
> heats up the bimetal strip depends on the case of the regulator being 
> grounded in order to heat up the bimetal strip and cause it to open and 
> close.
>  
> If no ground, then the full 100% duty cycle voltage is sent to the gauges 
> resulting in improper readings.
>  
> If I were to check one of these regulators, I’d check for continuity from 
> the tab on the case to the INPUT 12 volt terminal; you should see the 
> resistance of the heating coil inside the regulator.
> Then, with no power to the regulator, I’d look for continuity of the 12 
> volt Input terminal to the Output terminal
> Don Antilla
> 203 264-8301 Home
> 203 592-8427 Cell
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> On 9/22/16, 11:01 AM, "Tigers on behalf of Gary Winblad via Tigers" 
> <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net on behalf of tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>  
> I've never had one fail so I don't know.
> If you are sure yours is bad, take it apart and let us all know, I am 
> curious too.
> The current is low, I would guess the heating wire might have opened up 
> and
> could possibly be re connected.
> Gary
>  
>  
> On 9/21/2016 9:32 PM, Larry Mayfield via Tigers wrote:
>  
> You know I have been thinking about that little sucker.  Just what is 
> in it to go bad? The points? Or. Why does it fail. Would a capacitor 
> in the circuit help in the output to prevent flyback voltages (there 
> is an inductor in the loop a lot like points and ignition coil)?  Not 
> a sparky, but curious.
>  
> Whadda I know…
>  
> mayf
>  Don Antilla
> 203 264-8301 Home
> 203 592-8427 Cell
>  
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