[Tigers] More Booster opinions

[Gary Winblad]

BINGO
Thank you Stu.
This is really good info.
I have been going by an old TechTip that says the foam ring in the kit is too
big and you better cut it down or just use the old one.
BUT over the years, with each rebuild (I estimate about 8-10 years) my
servo has gotten worse and I couldn't figure out why.
My boost ratio (amount of assist) is ok and I have never noticed a foot
massage, my problem is a kick back.  I was focusing on re-bleeding
and on the T valve and never got any results.

Gary


----- Original Message -----
From: Stu Brennan <stubrennan at comcast.net>
To: Tiger Net <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 17:29:58 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] More Booster opinions

I sent one of the recent messages, the one with mention of removing the foam
rubber ring behind the leather seal, the the fellow who recently rebuilt my
booster.  Here are his comments:

Hi there: "Treat the symptom, but don't cure the disease".
There are a pile of things that can retard servo function. The air can's inner
surface gets corroded and pitted and the leather will dry out or be washed &
hardened by leaking brake fluids. The graphite grease both softens the leather
and lubes the can's walls for smooth function. Yanking out the support ring
that sits under the leather is a temporary measure at best and will reduce the
power ratio by vacuum loss. Better to high speed wire comb the can's inner
wall and/or replace the leather to maintain a higher vacuum ratio for "power"
brakes. Also, the control valve can be sticky and not re-directing the vacuum
air to a release function. Basically the same air that provides the piston
power "on" also helps it release when you let up on the pedal. Tiger TAC #009
servo would always pulse with indecision during light pedal just to let me
know it was considering stopping at some point. Since it provided a warming
foot massage, we left it alone.
These things are at least 45 years of age, using materials made to last 3-5
seasons at best. Brakes should be as reliable as we can make them.
Answer: 1 Black graphite grease LMA
2 Gently sand or wire brush the crusted surfaces of the leather so grease can
penetrate
3 Use a brass wire brush in a drill to polish the inner can walls and grease
it
Better is to hand it to someone who understands the darn thing . . . . . . . .
. .amen

Another opinion to muddy the waters, from a guy who rebuilds these all the
time.

Stu