[Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs

[genepadgett at comcast.net]

Just a caution to all about specific torque figures. The 15 - 20 ft- lb figure in the shop manual is probably a dry torque figure. Anti-sieze on the threads acts as a lubricant. It will result in a considerably tighter actual clamping force (and stress on the plug threads) at a 15-20 ft-lb torque reading than you would have at the same torque and no anti-sieze . 

Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com> 
To: drmayf at mayfco.com, "Jay Laifman" <jay.laifman at gmail.com> 
Cc: "Tiger's Den" <tigers at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:32:39 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs 

Spark plug torque 

Tapered plug - snug + 1/8 turn 
Washer style - snug + 1/4 turn 

This seems to be the norm for spark plugs. 

Tiger Shop Manual - Section B - Page 70 - torque = 15 - 20 ft lbs 

Ron Fraser 

-----Original Message----- 
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] 
On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield 
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:18 PM 
To: Jay Laifman 
Cc: Tiger's Den 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs 


Intersting...but, I am throwing the BS flag on this one. When the plug 
was fires, in this case, and the spark arcs under the boot to the metal 
case, it is done. The case with its tapered seat grounds the spark to 
the head and no further current flows. The engineer mentions that the 
spark runs down the case to the inside of the spark where the center 
electrode is housed in ceramic and sparks inside there. I don't think 
so. Again, in a normally firing plug, the current flows down the center 
of the plug, jumps the gap and grounds itself on the side of the plug 
case. That side is grounded both by the threads and the plug seat. As 
to the anti seize, yeah too much is a bad thing. But it must also be 
noted that the common variety anti sieze compounds use some sort of 
metallic powder in them. I have two different kinds, one with small 
copper microballs and one with a nickel alloy for higher heat 
applications. The metals in the anti seize are conductive in 
themselves so having them between the threads and head material is a 
non issue. getting the goo on the electrode is a problem though and you 
should avoid that. Also, getting it on the exterior plug ceramic is a 
no no as well. Why? well because it IS conductive stuff. so if you have 
a db on the ceramic the spark energy will take the easiest path to 
ground and that isn't through the center electrode. Anybody remember 
what the plug torque is for their spark plugs in their Tigers? I don't 
see it in the repair manual. I didn't get a torque spec with the 
aluminum heads for the race car either. Most say something like hand 
tight plus a bit extra with the wrench. As to putting the dielectric 
grease inside the boot. Oh yes! It makes those suckers really easy to 
get all the way on. And that makes good electrical contact with the 
center electrode. It doesn't seem to help me get the boot off though. 

Just use a dab of ante seize. like a bit on a q tip. Or use milk of 
magnesia, works just as well and is non conductive. 

happy sparking 

mayf 

______________________________ 
drmayf 
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period. 
204.913 mph flying mile 
210.779 mph exit speed 


On 4/18/2012 12:51 PM, Jay Laifman wrote: 
> Every car guy should watch this! 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded 
> 
> Jay 
> _______________________________________________ 
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