From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Mar  1 11:11:14 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2011 13:11:14 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] FYI
Message-ID: <9BEA7116E4ED49F7A5F6B8F5673E3308@ronpc1>

    The Spring 2011, vol 14, no. 1 issue of Engine Masters has a build up of
a 260 Ford engine casting# C3OE-6015B.
 
358 HP @ 6700 rpm with Pro Comp heads, solid lifter cam, tunnel port intake
and 2 - 450 Holleys
 
Enginemasters.com
 
I did not see a write up on the web site but it might show up there in the
near future.
 
Just thought it was interesting that someone did a write up of a 260 build.
 
Ron Fraser

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Mar  1 14:19:04 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2011 15:19:04 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?FYI?=
Message-ID: <20110301211851.0E6BC18764C@autox.team.net>

Be interesting to see how much one might have to hack out of the firewall to mount the two 450's. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
Date: Tue, Mar 1, 2011 12:11
Subject: [Tigers] FYI
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>

    The Spring 2011, vol 14, no. 1 issue of Engine Masters has a build up of
a 260 Ford engine casting# C3OE-6015B.
 
358 HP @ 6700 rpm with Pro Comp heads, solid lifter cam, tunnel port intake
and 2 - 450 Holleys
 
Enginemasters.com
 
I did not see a write up on the web site but it might show up there in the
near future.
 
Just thought it was interesting that someone did a write up of a 260 build.
 
Ron Fraser
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Tue Mar  1 14:33:27 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2011 13:33:27 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] FYI
In-Reply-To: <20110301211851.0E6BC18764C@autox.team.net>
References: <20110301211851.0E6BC18764C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4D6D6627.7060209@mayfco.com>

Might try mounting them sideways.

I looked for the magazine nut in Pahrump, NV, we barely get a newspaper 
let alone reading materials, lol! I was more interested in how they 
unshrouded the intake valve at the cylinder wall.


mayf

On 3/1/2011 1:19 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
> Be interesting to see how much one might have to hack out of the firewall to mount the two 450's.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: " Ron Fraser"<rfraser at bluefrog.com>
> Date: Tue, Mar 1, 2011 12:11
> Subject: [Tigers] FYI
> To:<tigers at autox.team.net>
>
>      The Spring 2011, vol 14, no. 1 issue of Engine Masters has a build up of
> a 260 Ford engine casting# C3OE-6015B.
>
> 358 HP @ 6700 rpm with Pro Comp heads, solid lifter cam, tunnel port intake
> and 2 - 450 Holleys
>
> Enginemasters.com
>
> I did not see a write up on the web site but it might show up there in the
> near future.
>
> Just thought it was interesting that someone did a write up of a 260 build.
>
> Ron Fraser
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com

From jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk  Tue Mar  1 14:16:55 2011
From: jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk (Jeff Howarth)
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2011 21:16:55 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] FYI
In-Reply-To: <9BEA7116E4ED49F7A5F6B8F5673E3308@ronpc1>
References: <9BEA7116E4ED49F7A5F6B8F5673E3308@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <b6i1KMCHJWbNFwXx@v8tiger.demon.co.uk>

forget the write up - where can I get one !!

:-)


Jeff

In message <9BEA7116E4ED49F7A5F6B8F5673E3308 at ronpc1>, Ron Fraser 
<rfraser at bluefrog.com> writes
>    The Spring 2011, vol 14, no. 1 issue of Engine Masters has a build up of
>a 260 Ford engine casting# C3OE-6015B.
>
>358 HP @ 6700 rpm with Pro Comp heads, solid lifter cam, tunnel port intake
>and 2 - 450 Holleys
>
>Enginemasters.com
>
>I did not see a write up on the web site but it might show up there in the
>near future.
>
>Just thought it was interesting that someone did a write up of a 260 build.
>
>Ron Fraser
>_______________________________________________
>Tigers at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk
>
>

-- 
Jeff Howarth

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Mar  1 15:46:30 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2011 17:46:30 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] FYI
In-Reply-To: <4D6D6627.7060209@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <C35BCA2C870F45938C855F4E25978CF0@ronpc1>

	This 260 was build for a lightweight straight axle gasser style 63
1/2 Falcon and the carbs are mounted sideways.

The heads are Pro Comp GT40X with 1.9" intake valves and 1.55" exhaust but
no part # is listed for the heads.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2011 4:33 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] FYI


Might try mounting them sideways.

I looked for the magazine nut in Pahrump, NV, we barely get a newspaper 
let alone reading materials, lol! I was more interested in how they 
unshrouded the intake valve at the cylinder wall.


mayf

On 3/1/2011 1:19 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
> Be interesting to see how much one might have to hack out of the 
> firewall to mount the two 450's.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: " Ron Fraser"<rfraser at bluefrog.com>
> Date: Tue, Mar 1, 2011 12:11
> Subject: [Tigers] FYI
> To:<tigers at autox.team.net>
>
>      The Spring 2011, vol 14, no. 1 issue of Engine Masters has a 
> build up of a 260 Ford engine casting# C3OE-6015B.
>
> 358 HP @ 6700 rpm with Pro Comp heads, solid lifter cam, tunnel port 
> intake and 2 - 450 Holleys
>
> Enginemasters.com
>
> I did not see a write up on the web site but it might show up there in 
> the near future.
>
> Just thought it was interesting that someone did a write up of a 260 
> build.
>
> Ron Fraser
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3473 - Release Date: 03/01/11
07:34:00

From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net  Tue Mar  1 17:57:18 2011
From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (Clyde McLaughlin)
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2011 19:57:18 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] ford/mazda trans
Message-ID: <002701cbd874$c7bfe8c0$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>

Hi Guys,  I had a Ford truck with that trans,  not very strong,  weak
synchros,  would wonder how long it would hold up with a strong engine,  300
hp or a little more...they don't have a great rep with us in the repair world,
just food for thaught,  Clyde

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Tue Mar  1 18:33:52 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2011 17:33:52 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] FYI
In-Reply-To: <C35BCA2C870F45938C855F4E25978CF0@ronpc1>
References: <C35BCA2C870F45938C855F4E25978CF0@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <4D6D9E80.3030406@mayfco.com>

I went to their web site and looked around. You can download thier 
catalog in pdf format.   http://www.procompelectronics.com/   Just go to 
the Catalog item...  It looks like you could build a complete engine 
form thier bits and pieces although I did not see a 302 block.  None of 
their SBF heads are the valve size listed below so I'm guessing they 
removed the valve seats and put in slightly smaller ones to permit the 
smaller valve sizes.  Their stuff looks good, but no experience with any 
of it.

mayf

On 3/1/2011 2:46 PM,  Ron Fraser wrote:
> 	This 260 was build for a lightweight straight axle gasser style 63
> 1/2 Falcon and the carbs are mounted sideways.
>
> The heads are Pro Comp GT40X with 1.9" intake valves and 1.55" exhaust but
> no part # is listed for the heads.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
> Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2011 4:33 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] FYI
>
>
> Might try mounting them sideways.
>
> I looked for the magazine nut in Pahrump, NV, we barely get a newspaper
> let alone reading materials, lol! I was more interested in how they
> unshrouded the intake valve at the cylinder wall.
>
>
> mayf
>
> On 3/1/2011 1:19 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
>> Be interesting to see how much one might have to hack out of the
>> firewall to mount the two 450's.
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>>
>> ----- Reply message -----
>> From: " Ron Fraser"<rfraser at bluefrog.com>
>> Date: Tue, Mar 1, 2011 12:11
>> Subject: [Tigers] FYI
>> To:<tigers at autox.team.net>
>>
>>       The Spring 2011, vol 14, no. 1 issue of Engine Masters has a
>> build up of a 260 Ford engine casting# C3OE-6015B.
>>
>> 358 HP @ 6700 rpm with Pro Comp heads, solid lifter cam, tunnel port
>> intake and 2 - 450 Holleys
>>
>> Enginemasters.com
>>
>> I did not see a write up on the web site but it might show up there in
>> the near future.
>>
>> Just thought it was interesting that someone did a write up of a 260
>> build.
>>
>> Ron Fraser
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3473 - Release Date: 03/01/11
> 07:34:00

From jimmc13 at hughes.net  Tue Mar  1 19:12:39 2011
From: jimmc13 at hughes.net (Jim)
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2011 20:12:39 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Stock Tiger Rocker Ratio
Message-ID: <C408BA08E50341969A98C8947860B502@RedBudAdminPC>

Can someone provide the rocker ratio for a stock 260 Mark 1a tiger?  I am
freshening up my motor and need this info.
Thanks
Jim

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Mar  1 19:17:20 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2011 20:17:20 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?ford/mazda_trans?=
Message-ID: <20110302021708.079C318764C@autox.team.net>

Wonder how it will hold up behind 90 h.p.?
Seriously. 
R

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Clyde McLaughlin" <clydemclaughlin at verizon.net>
Date: Tue, Mar 1, 2011 18:57
Subject: [Tigers] ford/mazda trans
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>

Hi Guys,  I had a Ford truck with that trans,  not very strong,  weak
synchros,  would wonder how long it would hold up with a strong engine,  300
hp or a little more...they don't have a great rep with us in the repair world,
just food for thaught,  Clyde
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Wed Mar  2 13:21:11 2011
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2011 12:21:11 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Google, Tigers, and TigersUnited.com
Message-ID: <4D6EA6B7.4070500@socal.rr.com>

Tigers,

A few days ago "Google" web search engine.  ( http://www.google.com ) 
announced that they were eliminating all web site referrals to eliminate 
non-searched for links, ads, etc.

I don't know about your use of "Google, for reference material on the 
web, but I looked for "TigersUnited". One word, if you are not 
interested in "Save a Tiger", football teams, and our own TigersUnited 
events

To my surprise, I got 91 PAGES of links to " TigersUnited.com" web 
site.  In the past, the link was #1 amongst many other web sites. Now 
there very comprehensive and specific links to TigersUnited.com content 
by subject.

My conclusion: The "Google" search engine gives a LONG list of content 
summary, making info easier to find. However, not quite as good as the 
site-specific search engine "magnifying glass" on the TigersUnited.com 
web site.  But first you must connect to the T.U. site to use it.

Take a look in Google for "TigersUnited". < 
http://www.google.com/search?q=%22tigersunited%22&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a 
<Google%20%22TigersUnited.com%3E> >

Steve
-- 



/Steve Laifman/

/Editor - /*/TigersUnited.com/* <http://www.tigersunited.com>

From maliburevue at yahoo.com  Thu Mar  3 09:13:59 2011
From: maliburevue at yahoo.com (Gary)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 08:13:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question
Message-ID: <418697.96544.qm@web33201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I installed a GM one-wire alternator. It charges fine and the idiot light and
ammeter work properly. However, if I leave it for several days or weeks it
drains the battery. I have checked the main wire with a meter and it is
grounded. I don't remember the exact resistance. Does that mean one of the
diodes in the regulator has gone bad?

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Mar  3 10:14:29 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 12:14:29 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question
In-Reply-To: <418697.96544.qm@web33201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B626935B74254C9D9C0988FFBCF352FD@ronpc1>

Gary
	If a diode has gone bad; the alternator case will be hot or warm to
the touch when it should feel cool or at ambient temperature after setting.
You could disconnect the wire at the alternator and see if the problem
continues.   The last time I had this type of problem the battery drained
after a 9 hour work day.  Several days seems like something else.

	Is the battery good?  Have you tried disconnecting a battery cable
and letting it set to see if it maintains voltage?   If you have a volt
meter with a high amp section; you could put the meter between one cable and
the battery to see the current draw.   Normally only the clock continues to
draw current I believe; should be milliamps but I'm  not sure what it really
draws.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Gary
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 11:14 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question


I installed a GM one-wire alternator. It charges fine and the idiot light
and ammeter work properly. However, if I leave it for several days or weeks
it drains the battery. I have checked the main wire with a meter and it is
grounded. I don't remember the exact resistance. Does that mean one of the
diodes in the regulator has gone bad?
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3475 - Release Date: 03/01/11
07:34:00

From cjrichardsauto at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar  3 13:36:48 2011
From: cjrichardsauto at sbcglobal.net (Chris Richards)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 12:36:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] MK2 Tiger makes Boca Raton
Message-ID: <459704.35359.qm@web80502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Listers-
 
Nice to see a MK2 Tiger at big events.  The Carnival Red MK2 won 3rd in class
and 3rd for People's Choice over all other cars at the event.  Great to see
the fruit of my labor getting coverage:
 
http://weblogs.sun-sentinel.com/entertainment/thingstodo/2011/03/boca_raton_c
oncours_d_elegance_1.html
 
Regards-Chris in Arcata

From maliburevue at yahoo.com  Thu Mar  3 17:50:15 2011
From: maliburevue at yahoo.com (Gary)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 16:50:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question
In-Reply-To: <006101cbd9f1$e7c69cd0$b753d670$@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <163214.9125.qm@web33207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hank,
 
I have disconnetcted the battery and it holds a charge just fine. I have
disconnected the battery cable from the battery and disconnected
the alternator and the cable is not grounded anywhere else, so I know my
battery, cable and electrical system are in general in good. With the ignition
off, there are no other loads on the system.
 
It's got to be the alternator and I am assuming it's the diode stack
 
Thanks,
 
Gary
--- On Thu, 3/3/11, hanjan2 <hanjan2 at bellsouth.net> wrote:


From: hanjan2 <hanjan2 at bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Alternator Question
To: "'Gary'" <maliburevue at yahoo.com>
Date: Thursday, March 3, 2011, 2:25 PM


I don't often reply, but will to help you find out the source of the
problem.
1) loosen the ground lead to the battery and set it near the ground terminal
2) take a DC ammeter and hook it in series with the battery negative and the
loose ground lead. If the needle goes the wrong way (down) reverse the
ammeter leads
3) Note the reading; it will read (my guess is about 250 milliamps) if a
load is  killing your battery in a few days. Let's assume it indicates 1/2
amp just to move on
4) remove the alternator main lead and look at the ammeter. If the current
drops you do have a problem with the diode stack; let's assume it doesn't
drop (not an alt prob)
5) remove one of the two fuses in the eng compartment. Ammeter current drop
means that circuit feed is drawing current; if not try the other fuse.
Assume you find one fuse that drops the current
6) track and find each load one at a time and open the wire at that load.
Assume one load drops the current. Go fix that problem.
7) Want to determine all loads that are constantly in the circuit? Remove
loads one at a time until the current is zero.

Want to talk you can call me at 954-257-4992.
My Regards,
Hank (yes, a Tiger owner who has remained silent till now)

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Gary
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 11:14 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question

I installed a GM one-wire alternator. It charges fine and the idiot light
and
ammeter work properly. However, if I leave it for several days or weeks it
drains the battery. I have checked the main wire with a meter and it is
grounded. I don't remember the exact resistance. Does that mean one of the
diodes in the regulator has gone bad?
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/hanjan2 at bellsouth.net

From jefferyrandall at gmail.com  Thu Mar  3 20:20:37 2011
From: jefferyrandall at gmail.com (Jeffery Randall)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 19:20:37 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question
In-Reply-To: <163214.9125.qm@web33207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <006101cbd9f1$e7c69cd0$b753d670$@bellsouth.net>
	<163214.9125.qm@web33207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikKUqQRHR+MfLqyE1sZyz_5xCSDTfpQ+6i8RaHF@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Gary,
  Are you still using the rest of the stock wiring relays? I m not sure of
the name , Something like 6rw its the small cylindrical relay looks like a
flasher. Ron will know the one, that can cause the same symptoms your
descibing.
   Jeff

On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 4:50 PM, Gary <maliburevue at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hank,
>
> I have disconnetcted the battery and it holds a charge just fine. I have
> disconnected the battery cable from the battery and disconnected
> the alternator and the cable is not grounded anywhere else, so I know my
> battery, cable and electrical system are in general in good. With the
> ignition
> off, there are no other loads on the system.
>
> It's got to be the alternator and I am assuming it's the diode stack
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary
> --- On Thu, 3/3/11, hanjan2 <hanjan2 at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>
> From: hanjan2 <hanjan2 at bellsouth.net>
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] Alternator Question
> To: "'Gary'" <maliburevue at yahoo.com>
> Date: Thursday, March 3, 2011, 2:25 PM
>
>
> I don't often reply, but will to help you find out the source of the
> problem.
> 1) loosen the ground lead to the battery and set it near the ground
> terminal
> 2) take a DC ammeter and hook it in series with the battery negative and
> the
> loose ground lead. If the needle goes the wrong way (down) reverse the
> ammeter leads
> 3) Note the reading; it will read (my guess is about 250 milliamps) if a
> load is  killing your battery in a few days. Let's assume it indicates 1/2
> amp just to move on
> 4) remove the alternator main lead and look at the ammeter. If the current
> drops you do have a problem with the diode stack; let's assume it doesn't
> drop (not an alt prob)
> 5) remove one of the two fuses in the eng compartment. Ammeter current drop
> means that circuit feed is drawing current; if not try the other fuse.
> Assume you find one fuse that drops the current
> 6) track and find each load one at a time and open the wire at that load.
> Assume one load drops the current. Go fix that problem.
> 7) Want to determine all loads that are constantly in the circuit? Remove
> loads one at a time until the current is zero.
>
> Want to talk you can call me at 954-257-4992.
> My Regards,
> Hank (yes, a Tiger owner who has remained silent till now)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Gary
> Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 11:14 AM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question
>
> I installed a GM one-wire alternator. It charges fine and the idiot light
> and
> ammeter work properly. However, if I leave it for several days or weeks it
> drains the battery. I have checked the main wire with a meter and it is
> grounded. I don't remember the exact resistance. Does that mean one of the
> diodes in the regulator has gone bad?
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/hanjan2 at bellsouth.net
>  _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall at gmail.com

From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net  Fri Mar  4 07:57:53 2011
From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 06:57:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
Message-ID: <562980.60373.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

 
Drum roll please..........   US $3,445.00 !!!!!!!
 
 
See it on Ebay # 280635608279
 
 
                                         Jeff

From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Mar  4 08:29:20 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 10:29:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
Message-ID: <1d7c2.1ff52171.3aa25f50@aol.com>

My God, I could sell mine and buy an Alpine parts car:-)
M
 
 
In a message dated 3/4/2011 10:17:12 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jxnichols at sbcglobal.net writes:


Drum  roll please..........   US $3,445.00 !!!!!!!


See it on  Ebay # 280635608279


Jeff
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From zimme008 at yahoo.com  Fri Mar  4 08:35:42 2011
From: zimme008 at yahoo.com (Randy Zimmermann)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 07:35:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
In-Reply-To: <562980.60373.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <562980.60373.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <893768.67999.qm@web56402.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I guess it's time to move my copy out of the garage and into a safe deposit 
box...

Randy




________________________________
From: Jeffrey Nichols <jxnichols at sbcglobal.net>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 8:57:53 AM
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!


Drum roll please..........   US $3,445.00 !!!!!!!


See it on Ebay # 280635608279


                                         Jeff
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/zimme008 at yahoo.com

From jd.sencindiver at gmail.com  Fri Mar  4 08:36:34 2011
From: jd.sencindiver at gmail.com (Jim Sencindiver)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 10:36:34 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
In-Reply-To: <562980.60373.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <562980.60373.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikyfSoXp8wm2Kd0KYKG74-B0nSMZw0a6TU=+jPO@mail.gmail.com>

That price is unreal.
Boy am I glad I got mine for $200 "several" years ago!

Keep on Tigering!
 Jim Sencindiver

B382100451/TAC 448
http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp



On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 9:57 AM, Jeffrey Nichols <jxnichols at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

>
> Drum roll please..........   US $3,445.00 !!!!!!!
>
>
> See it on Ebay # 280635608279
>
>
>                                         Jeff
> _______________________________________________
>
> --

From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Fri Mar  4 08:54:00 2011
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Cullen McCann)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 09:54:00 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
In-Reply-To: <1d7c2.1ff52171.3aa25f50@aol.com>
References: <1d7c2.1ff52171.3aa25f50@aol.com>
Message-ID: <006501cbda84$6170c5f0$245251d0$@com>

That's more than I paid for my Tiger....granted my Tiger was pretty
rough...but still...Wow. 
Cullen

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of CoolVT at aol.com
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2011 9:29 AM
To: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!

My God, I could sell mine and buy an Alpine parts car:-)
M
 
 
In a message dated 3/4/2011 10:17:12 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jxnichols at sbcglobal.net writes:


Drum  roll please..........   US $3,445.00 !!!!!!!


See it on  Ebay # 280635608279


Jeff
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com

From WHIZZZBANG13 at aol.com  Fri Mar  4 09:13:41 2011
From: WHIZZZBANG13 at aol.com (WHIZZZBANG13 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 11:13:41 EST
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
Message-ID: <9053e.56329854.3aa269b5@aol.com>

I have two copies, one is the original with the famous missing pages  (but 
I do have them) and one I got for Christmas in 1993 from my wife. She  
complained that a book about cars should NOT cost $55.
 
I don't think she's complaining now.
 
Fred Baum
Two Tigers and TWO BON's!!
 
 
In a message dated 3/4/2011 11:05:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jd.sencindiver at gmail.com writes:

That  price is unreal.
Boy am I glad I got mine for $200 "several" years  ago!

Keep on Tigering!
Jim Sencindiver

B382100451/TAC  448
http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp



On  Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 9:57 AM, Jeffrey Nichols  
<jxnichols at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

>
> Drum roll  please..........   US $3,445.00 !!!!!!!
>
>
> See  it on Ebay # 280635608279
>
>
>          Jeff
>  _______________________________________________
>
>  --
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/whizzzbang13 at aol.com

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Fri Mar  4 09:23:18 2011
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 10:23:18 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikyfSoXp8wm2Kd0KYKG74-B0nSMZw0a6TU=+jPO@mail.gmail.com>
References: <562980.60373.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTikyfSoXp8wm2Kd0KYKG74-B0nSMZw0a6TU=+jPO@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2E284E1@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

Looks like the vultures are quick to try and ride this sale, too:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.m748&i
tem=220748471352&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D7501295684763315803

The bid history is interesting. The first 'high' bid (one that others
repeatedly tried to outbid) was $750 at Feb 25; then the eventual winner put
in a bid for 1000 and upped it to 1200. Then another guy got into it with a
bid at 1579; the would-be winner countered with 1750 (which would have given
him the lead) then put in a higher bid at 2295. The counter-bidder retook the
lead with 2579, then re-upped his bid to 2900. Then a bit of a race took
place. After the first buy tried to counter at 2695, the counterbidder raised
his bid to $3395, which was topped by the winning bid (and we don't know how
high that was - eBay gives the high bidder a price that is a minimum increment
above the second-place bid).

Hopefully everybody had fun, the previous owner of this book gets an
unexpected windfall, and this doesn't set the tone for subsequent Tiger lit
auctions.

I had this happen a few years ago when I sold a set of dual quads. They were
near-unrebuildable and I clearly stated that; but just because they had the
right part numbers on the base, bidding shot up to $600.

Cheers,
THeo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Sencindiver
> Sent: March 4, 2011 8:37 AM
> To: Jeffrey Nichols
> Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
>
> That price is unreal.
> Boy am I glad I got mine for $200 "several" years ago!
>
> Keep on Tigering!
>  Jim Sencindiver
>
> B382100451/TAC 448
> http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp
>
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 9:57 AM, Jeffrey Nichols
> <jxnichols at sbcglobal.net>wrote:
>
> >
> > Drum roll please..........   US $3,445.00 !!!!!!!
> >
> >
> > See it on Ebay # 280635608279
> >
> >
> >                                         Jeff
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > --
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From maliburevue at yahoo.com  Fri Mar  4 09:39:53 2011
From: maliburevue at yahoo.com (Gary)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 08:39:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
In-Reply-To: <9053e.56329854.3aa269b5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <253493.61955.qm@web33201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yup, that's exactly what I paid for my Tiger in September, 2000.
 
Gary

From banana111 at msn.com  Fri Mar  4 10:15:31 2011
From: banana111 at msn.com (Brent Edinger)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 09:15:31 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question
Message-ID: <BLU151-w889354581F87AD2E662EBF7C20@phx.gbl>

Hank, where is this relay located?

       Thanks, Brent


> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 19:20:37 -0800
> From: Jeffery Randall <jefferyrandall at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Alternator Question
> To: Gary <maliburevue at yahoo.com>
> Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> Message-ID:
> <AANLkTikKUqQRHR+MfLqyE1sZyz_5xCSDTfpQ+6i8RaHF at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hey Gary,
> Are you still using the rest of the stock wiring relays? I m not sure of
> the name , Something like 6rw its the small cylindrical relay looks like a
> flasher. Ron will know the one, that can cause the same symptoms your
> descibing.
> Jeff
>
> On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 4:50 PM, Gary <maliburevue at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Hank,
> >
> > I have disconnetcted the battery and it holds a charge just fine. I have
> > disconnected the battery cable from the battery and disconnected
> > the alternator and the cable is not grounded anywhere else, so I know my
> > battery, cable and electrical system are in general in good. With the
> > ignition
> > off, there are no other loads on the system.
> >
> > It's got to be the alternator and I am assuming it's the diode stack
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Gary
> > --- On Thu, 3/3/11, hanjan2 <hanjan2 at bellsouth.net> wrote:

From jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk  Fri Mar  4 10:14:18 2011
From: jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk (Jeff Howarth)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 17:14:18 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
In-Reply-To: <253493.61955.qm@web33201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <9053e.56329854.3aa269b5@aol.com>
	<253493.61955.qm@web33201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9tOMPvDq3RcNFwb0@v8tiger.demon.co.uk>

I have a spare perfect unopened copy available

Available to trade for a tiger

:-)

If you have a rust free Alpine series 5 I might consider.



In message <253493.61955.qm at web33201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, Gary 
<maliburevue at yahoo.com> writes
>Yup, that's exactly what I paid for my Tiger in September, 2000.
>
>Gary
>_______________________________________________
>Tigers at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk
>
>

-- 
Jeff Howarth

From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Fri Mar  4 12:11:41 2011
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2011 14:11:41 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Book of Norman
Message-ID: <4D71396D.9040802@roadrunner.com>

Ridiculous price!  I bought my Tiger for $3971.50 (in 1966).  My 
(probably incorrect) recollection is that the BON originally sold for 
$50.  At the same rate of inflation, my car is worth $273,636.35.  I'll 
settle for $250K.  Any takers?

Cheers,

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
TAC 864

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Fri Mar  4 12:25:34 2011
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 14:25:34 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w889354581F87AD2E662EBF7C20@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-w889354581F87AD2E662EBF7C20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimkz-=M+yRS7fJ_F6b8LLQxJoCoRm3NPQ+uOgBw@mail.gmail.com>

I think what Hank's referencing is the 6RA relay used on the Tiger Mark 2's.
I don't think it was used on the earlier models, anyway it isn't on the
wiring diagram for the Mark 1.

The 6RA on the mark 2 is located on the fender well on the driver's side of
the engine compartment just above the strut.

Tom ' 67 Mark 2

On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 12:15 PM, Brent Edinger <banana111 at msn.com> wrote:

> Hank, where is this relay located?
>
>       Thanks, Brent
>
>
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 19:20:37 -0800
> > From: Jeffery Randall <jefferyrandall at gmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Alternator Question
> > To: Gary <maliburevue at yahoo.com>
> > Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> > Message-ID:
> > <AANLkTikKUqQRHR+MfLqyE1sZyz_5xCSDTfpQ+6i8RaHF at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Hey Gary,
> > Are you still using the rest of the stock wiring relays? I m not sure of
> > the name , Something like 6rw its the small cylindrical relay looks like
> a
> > flasher. Ron will know the one, that can cause the same symptoms your
> > descibing.
> > Jeff
> >
> > On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 4:50 PM, Gary <maliburevue at yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Hank,
> > >
> > > I have disconnetcted the battery and it holds a charge just fine. I
> have
> > > disconnected the battery cable from the battery and disconnected
> > > the alternator and the cable is not grounded anywhere else, so I know
> my
> > > battery, cable and electrical system are in general in good. With the
> > > ignition
> > > off, there are no other loads on the system.
> > >
> > > It's got to be the alternator and I am assuming it's the diode stack
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Gary
> > > --- On Thu, 3/3/11, hanjan2 <hanjan2 at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From gswaybright at yahoo.com  Fri Mar  4 12:44:48 2011
From: gswaybright at yahoo.com (Stephen Waybright)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 11:44:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17.1299265202.24827.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <170097.68962.qm@web31408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

$3445 is crazy!!! I didn't pay much more than that to buy my Tiger back in the
80's!

I really hope Norm does an updated edition at some point and floods the market
with it @ ~$100 so I can have a copy again. I'd bet he'd sell out fast just
from the speculators buying them.  ;)

I was compelled to sell my original BON when they were routinely going for
$700+.

Stephen

From arado7 at sbcglobal.net  Fri Mar  4 13:06:04 2011
From: arado7 at sbcglobal.net (arado7 at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 12:06:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
In-Reply-To: <170097.68962.qm@web31408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <485197.53116.qm@web82707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

never had the opportunity or need for the book. My car is original so I use
it.     Gary  B9472283   TAC311

--- On Fri, 3/4/11, Stephen Waybright <gswaybright at yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Stephen Waybright <gswaybright at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, March 4, 2011, 7:44 PM

$3445 is crazy!!! I didn't pay much more than that to buy my Tiger back in
the
80's!

I really hope Norm does an updated edition at some point and floods the
market
with it @ ~$100 so I can have a copy again. I'd bet he'd sell out fast just
from the speculators buying them.  ;)

I was compelled to sell my original BON when they were routinely going for
$700+.

Stephen
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/arado7 at sbcglobal.net

From Rollright at aol.com  Fri Mar  4 14:17:17 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 16:17:17 EST
Subject: [Tigers] BON
Message-ID: <6510c.145a83e6.3aa2b0dd@aol.com>

Hello,
 
With all due apologies to owners of the BON, isn't it time for Norm to  
issue a updated limited edition version
and sell it for $ 250 - $ 500 ?
 
Norm, I'll bet you are not independently wealthy and the windfall would be  
useful.
 
Otherwise, some internet wag will sell e-versions that will go viral and  
poof ! There goes the farm.
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From Rollright at aol.com  Fri Mar  4 14:27:25 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 16:27:25 EST
Subject: [Tigers] Oil mess on concrete
Message-ID: <65914.41954b1b.3aa2b33d@aol.com>

Hello
 
My wife's 1999 Audi A6 has p*ssed a lot of oil over along period of  time 
on my concrete garage floor. I know, tell her to park it  
outside.......right.......... 
    Anyway, I just had the thing fixed, and the leaks  stopped.
I now want to clean up the mess. With the knowledge base we have in this  
list-serve of leaky British cars, you folks must  know some magic compound  
that will clean it with minimal effort and hopefully low environmental  
impact.
 
Please help and fire away. I'm sure many of us are faced with the same  
dilemma. 
   
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Fri Mar  4 14:54:18 2011
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 15:54:18 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Oil mess on concrete
In-Reply-To: <65914.41954b1b.3aa2b33d@aol.com>
References: <65914.41954b1b.3aa2b33d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2E28639@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

Powdered laundry or dishwasher soap works pretty well... sprinkle it out over
the mess, broom it into the affected area, then pour a little hot water at a
time over it and keep at it with the broom. You may have to repeat this a few
times but it will pull out a lot of the grease and oil.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com
> Sent: March 4, 2011 2:27 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Oil mess on concrete
>
> Hello
>
> My wife's 1999 Audi A6 has p*ssed a lot of oil over along period of
> time
> on my concrete garage floor. I know, tell her to park it
> outside.......right..........
>     Anyway, I just had the thing fixed, and the leaks  stopped.
> I now want to clean up the mess. With the knowledge base we have in
> this
> list-serve of leaky British cars, you folks must  know some magic
> compound
> that will clean it with minimal effort and hopefully low environmental
> impact.
>
> Please help and fire away. I'm sure many of us are faced with the same
> dilemma.
>
> Jim  Armstrong
> Mk 1A 382002083
> LRXFE
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Mar  4 15:05:25 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 17:05:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers] Oil mess on concrete
Message-ID: <daf4.54afdb90.3aa2bc24@aol.com>

A fellow I know that does floor coating said the only way to do a really  
good job is to use a steam cleaner.  Said he was never satisfied with any  of 
the chemicals that he tried.  Of course there could be some that he  never 
tried;-)
M
 
 
In a message dated 3/4/2011 4:48:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Rollright at aol.com writes:

Hello

My wife's 1999 Audi A6 has p*ssed a lot of oil over  along period of  time 
on my concrete garage floor. I know, tell her  to park it  
outside.......right.......... 
Anyway, I  just had the thing fixed, and the leaks  stopped.
I now want to clean  up the mess. With the knowledge base we have in this  
list-serve of  leaky British cars, you folks must  know some magic compound 
  
that will clean it with minimal effort and hopefully low  environmental  
impact.

Please help and fire away. I'm sure  many of us are faced with the same  
dilemma. 

Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A  382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From rab65tiger at aol.com  Fri Mar  4 15:09:57 2011
From: rab65tiger at aol.com (rab65tiger at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2011 17:09:57 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2E284E1@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <562980.60373.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com><AANLkTikyfSoXp8wm2Kd0KYKG74-B0nSMZw0a6TU=+jPO@mail.gmail.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2E284E1@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <8CDA8D0082BE566-1DC0-8784@TSTMAIL-D01.sysops.aol.com>

 I have heard of cars being listed (not a Tiger of course), the number being
bid up, way out of expected range.  Then 2-4 weeks later it is re-listed with
references to scum bag buyer not coming through with the cash, or some other
technical issue.  I wonder......   Also remember the fake planted bids to try
to artificially raise a price, this never happens right....

Randy B


-----Original Message-----
From: Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
To: Jim Sencindiver <jd.sencindiver at gmail.com>; Jeffrey Nichols
<jxnichols at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Mar 4, 2011 10:23 am
Subject: Re: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!


Looks like the vultures are quick to try and ride this sale, too:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.m748&i

tem=220748471352&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D7501295684763315803



The bid history is interesting. The first 'high' bid (one that others

repeatedly tried to outbid) was $750 at Feb 25; then the eventual winner put

in a bid for 1000 and upped it to 1200. Then another guy got into it with a

bid at 1579; the would-be winner countered with 1750 (which would have given

him the lead) then put in a higher bid at 2295. The counter-bidder retook the

lead with 2579, then re-upped his bid to 2900. Then a bit of a race took

place. After the first buy tried to counter at 2695, the counterbidder raised

his bid to $3395, which was topped by the winning bid (and we don't know how

high that was - eBay gives the high bidder a price that is a minimum
increment

above the second-place bid).



Hopefully everybody had fun, the previous owner of this book gets an

unexpected windfall, and this doesn't set the tone for subsequent Tiger lit

auctions.



I had this happen a few years ago when I sold a set of dual quads. They were

near-unrebuildable and I clearly stated that; but just because they had the

right part numbers on the base, bidding shot up to $600.



Cheers,

THeo



> -----Original Message-----

> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-

> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Sencindiver

> Sent: March 4, 2011 8:37 AM

> To: Jeffrey Nichols

> Cc: tigers at autox.team.net

> Subject: Re: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!

>

> That price is unreal.

> Boy am I glad I got mine for $200 "several" years ago!

>

> Keep on Tigering!

>  Jim Sencindiver

>

> B382100451/TAC 448

> http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp

>

>

>

> On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 9:57 AM, Jeffrey Nichols

> <jxnichols at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

>

> >

> > Drum roll please..........   US $3,445.00 !!!!!!!

> >

> >

> > See it on Ebay # 280635608279

> >

> >

> >                                         Jeff

> > _______________________________________________

> >

> > --

> _______________________________________________

> Tigers at autox.team.net

> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

> Unsubscribe/Manage:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com

>





This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
sole

use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please

be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or

any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,

please contact the sender and delete all copies.



Thank you for your cooperation.

_______________________________________________

Tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rab65tiger at aol.com

From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net  Fri Mar  4 15:12:00 2011
From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (Clyde McLaughlin)
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2011 17:12:00 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] altenator test
Message-ID: <004401cbdab9$2fd8e6a0$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>

any good shop can do a diode test on your altenator in a matter of a few
minutes,  would also include a test on your battery,  suggest finding a shop
with one of the new electronic/digital testers,  it will even give you a print
out,  Clyde

From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Mar  4 15:14:19 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 17:14:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers] Book of Norman
Message-ID: <e1bf.20028d66.3aa2be3b@aol.com>

Hm, if you had put that same $3,900 into common, pocket change silver coins 
 it would now be worth $70,400.....of course it wouldn't have been as much  
fun:-)
 
 
In a message dated 3/4/2011 2:41:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
todbrown at roadrunner.com writes:

Ridiculous price!  I bought my Tiger for $3971.50 (in  1966).  My 
(probably incorrect) recollection is that the BON  originally sold for 
$50.  At the same rate of inflation, my car is  worth $273,636.35.  I'll 
settle for $250K.  Any  takers?

Cheers,

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
TAC  864
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From deiland1 at elp.rr.com  Fri Mar  4 15:14:43 2011
From: deiland1 at elp.rr.com (deiland1 at elp.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 22:14:43 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] Book of Norman
In-Reply-To: <4D71396D.9040802@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <20110304221443.JWQ5K.218730.root@hrndva-web14-z01>

Since my BON is signed by the man himself, I was about to say I was willing to take a fully restored Tiger in trade if you also through in a few extra dollars for fuel. After reading your analysis of the inflation factor it looks like you will need to through in a 427 Cobra into the deal for me to give up my signed BON.

Best Regards,
Dan Eiland


---- Tod Brown <todbrown at roadrunner.com> wrote: 
> Ridiculous price!  I bought my Tiger for $3971.50 (in 1966).  My 
> (probably incorrect) recollection is that the BON originally sold for 
> $50.  At the same rate of inflation, my car is worth $273,636.35.  I'll 
> settle for $250K.  Any takers?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Tod
> B382002384LRXFE
> TAC 864
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/deiland1 at elp.rr.com

From rab65tiger at aol.com  Fri Mar  4 15:20:58 2011
From: rab65tiger at aol.com (rab65tiger at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2011 17:20:58 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Oil mess on concrete
In-Reply-To: <65914.41954b1b.3aa2b33d@aol.com>
References: <65914.41954b1b.3aa2b33d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CDA8D192489257-1DC0-8962@TSTMAIL-D01.sysops.aol.com>

 For oil messes the cheapest, gray colored kitty litter, or the dedicated oil
dry from auto parts store works, with some elbow grease.  I use an old scrap
piece of 2 x 4 about 4 to 6" long, use the 2 x 4 like a scrub brush, pushing
the kitty litter into the concrete, and breaking it down into fine powder as
you go, will pull oil out of the concrete, sometimes it leaves a white spot
under the scrubbing.  Then the typical concrete cleaner can be used (I never
get the oil up with the mystery chemical concrete cleaner).  The 2 x4 scrub
brush with the cheap kitty litter, or oil dry works. Note, the more expensive
kitty little with colors and special crystals does not work like the cheap
stuff.

Randy B




 R-----Original Message-----
From: Rollright at aol.com
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Mar 4, 2011 3:27 pm
Subject: [Tigers] Oil mess on concrete


Hello



My wife's 1999 Audi A6 has p*ssed a lot of oil over along period of  time

on my concrete garage floor. I know, tell her to park it

outside.......right..........

    Anyway, I just had the thing fixed, and the leaks  stopped.

I now want to clean up the mess. With the knowledge base we have in this

list-serve of leaky British cars, you folks must  know some magic compound

that will clean it with minimal effort and hopefully low environmental

impact.



Please help and fire away. I'm sure many of us are faced with the same

dilemma.



Jim  Armstrong

Mk 1A 382002083

LRXFE

_______________________________________________

Tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rab65tiger at aol.com

From PhastPhill at aol.com  Fri Mar  4 16:00:19 2011
From: PhastPhill at aol.com (PhastPhill at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 18:00:19 EST
Subject: [Tigers] axle vent
Message-ID: <73522.4653a08.3aa2c903@aol.com>

I have the rearend and springs out of he tiger now for some work, I'm  a 
bit wonkie now but I can't find the vent for the diff. Where is it hiding?.  
Also we had a laugh at the shop, why can't they make the axles round?. on a 
plus  note hubs pressed off no worries

From barncobob at aol.com  Fri Mar  4 16:18:43 2011
From: barncobob at aol.com (barncobob)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 18:18:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers] oil mess on concrete
Message-ID: <8CDA8D9A33E7115-1790-CB9D@webmail-stg-m02.sysops.aol.com>

dry portland cement does well as does unsanded tile grout(no water guys)

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Fri Mar  4 17:02:26 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2011 16:02:26 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Oil mess on concrete
References: <65914.41954b1b.3aa2b33d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <66E961E4D490403891E57408770839CD@student2>

The "my old ladies - old man" (aka my step father) use to send me out with 
kitty litter and gasoline. I would pour the gas on the oil stain then brush 
on the kitty litter. It actually work quite well. Not so Eco-friendly and 
with the cost of gas maybe not so cheap either.

FYI if the leak was the Audi steering/brake fluid (Pentocin, $20+ a liter) 
good luck getting that stuff up. Exposed to the air for some time it becomes 
like sticky tree sap.

Tom

From dsmtjoy at cox.net  Fri Mar  4 17:24:57 2011
From: dsmtjoy at cox.net (Mountjoy)
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 16:24:57 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Oil mess on concrete
References: <mailman.14913.1299276620.23296.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5B6E58451551445BBA93CAD02632244F@computer>

Jim,

With my old cars I've "been-there; done-that" plenty.  The best product I've 
found to date is a product called "Pour-N-Restore".  It claims to "Easily 
lift & absorb embedded oil stains as it dries from liquid to powder".  Pour 
it on the affected area, spread it around, let it dry and sweep it up.  I've 
been happy with the product and am now not tracking oil into the house (this 
is a GOOD thing !).  It's not  cheap at ~$35 /gal.  I bought it at ACE 
Hardware.  Coverage is stated at ~24 square feet per gallon.

It is manufactured by:
Edgewater Industries
18570 Trimble Court
Spring Lake MI 49456
616.8467939
www.pour-n-restore.com

Jim, I'll sending you a scanned image off the list of the front & back 
labels for your reference.  Others, let me know if you'd like the scanned 
labels & I'll gladly send them to you off the list.

Its environmental impact... health-1, flammability-2, reactivity-0.  It is 
biodegradable and phosphate free.
Cheers,

Darrell

> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 16:27:25 EST
> From: Rollright at aol.com
> Subject: [Tigers] Oil mess on concrete
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <65914.41954b1b.3aa2b33d at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hello
>
> My wife's 1999 Audi A6 has p*ssed a lot of oil over along period of  time
> on my concrete garage floor. I know, tell her to park it
> outside.......right..........
>    Anyway, I just had the thing fixed, and the leaks  stopped.
> I now want to clean up the mess. With the knowledge base we have in this
> list-serve of leaky British cars, you folks must  know some magic compound
> that will clean it with minimal effort and hopefully low environmental
> impact.
>
> Please help and fire away. I'm sure many of us are faced with the same
> dilemma.
>
> Jim  Armstrong
> Mk 1A 382002083
> LRXFE
>
>
> ------------------------------

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Fri Mar  4 17:31:56 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2011 16:31:56 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] axle vent
References: <73522.4653a08.3aa2c903@aol.com>
Message-ID: <846D19DCF248419C87D18C663B912B8A@student2>

It is simply a very small hole drilled into the axle tube.  Viewed from the 
rear it is just to the left of the bracket were the flexible brake line 
attaches to the rearend.
Tom 

From chris at cthompson.net  Fri Mar  4 21:01:35 2011
From: chris at cthompson.net (Chris Thompson)
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2011 23:01:35 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] A new world record for Book Of Norman!!!!!
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikyfSoXp8wm2Kd0KYKG74-B0nSMZw0a6TU=+jPO@mail.gmail.com>
References: <562980.60373.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTikyfSoXp8wm2Kd0KYKG74-B0nSMZw0a6TU=+jPO@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4D71B59F.5030205@cthompson.net>

Gee, and I bought mine from Rick at "list" price of about $50 while out 
on the left coast shopping for my Tiger....

Now if only Tigers appreciated as fast, we could all retire (again ;-)

Chris

On 3/4/2011 10:36 AM, Jim Sencindiver wrote:
> That price is unreal.
> Boy am I glad I got mine for $200 "several" years ago!
>
> Keep on Tigering!
>   Jim Sencindiver
>
> B382100451/TAC 448
> http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp

From Parlanti at comcast.net  Sat Mar  5 09:56:30 2011
From: Parlanti at comcast.net (Joe Parlanti)
Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2011 11:56:30 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Bellhousing Numbers
In-Reply-To: <846D19DCF248419C87D18C663B912B8A@student2>
References: <73522.4653a08.3aa2c903@aol.com>
	<846D19DCF248419C87D18C663B912B8A@student2>
Message-ID: <003c01cbdb56$490bc690$db2353b0$@net>

Guys,

I'm looking for a 6 bolt bellhousing to mate a 302 to the Tiger 4 speed
transmission. 2 questions:

1. Does anyone have a list of the bellhousing part numbers that will fit?
2. Does anyone have one for sale?

Thanks,

JVP
B382000026

Joseph V. Parlanti
16048 Copen Meadow Dr
North Potomac, Md. 20878
Cell - 301-461-0626
Email - Parlanti at comcast.net

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sat Mar  5 10:51:00 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2011 11:51:00 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Bellhousing Numbers
In-Reply-To: <003c01cbdb56$490bc690$db2353b0$@net>
References: <73522.4653a08.3aa2c903@aol.com>
	<846D19DCF248419C87D18C663B912B8A@student2>
	<003c01cbdb56$490bc690$db2353b0$@net>
Message-ID: <000001cbdb5d$e3e57ba0$abb072e0$@rr.com>

C5DA-6394-A, C90A-6394-A, D20A-6394-AA, D5DA-6394-AB...All will need some
modifications to work.

I got this from Tiger Tales May/June 2009: How to Upgrade from a 5 Bolt to 6
Bolt.... by Gary Crandall

I am doing the same thing with a 91 302 HO block.  I bought a QuickTime
scatter shield.  It has everything you need to bolt it up to the 6 bolt
block, bolt the narrow case toploader to it, use the original fork and has
an adapter for the smaller C3 retainer.

You will want RM-6063 - 5.0/5.8 Ford Bellhousing/Ford Old Style
Toploader/Borgwarner T-10
http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html#ford

Duke
B3820002037

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joe Parlanti
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2011 10:57 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Bellhousing Numbers

Guys,

I'm looking for a 6 bolt bellhousing to mate a 302 to the Tiger 4 speed
transmission. 2 questions:

1. Does anyone have a list of the bellhousing part numbers that will fit?
2. Does anyone have one for sale?

Thanks,

JVP
B382000026

Joseph V. Parlanti
16048 Copen Meadow Dr
North Potomac, Md. 20878
Cell - 301-461-0626
Email - Parlanti at comcast.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Sat Mar  5 20:42:45 2011
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Sat, 05 Mar 2011 22:42:45 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Seats
Message-ID: <4D7302B5.9050305@roadrunner.com>

I've been redoing my seats and, so far, have them apart,  I would like 
to replace the cardboard on the back of the seat frames which is in 
pretty sad shape after almost forty-five years.  Does anyone have any 
advice on what to use and where to get it?  My preference would be for 
something a bit more moisture resistance than the original cardboard.  
Thanks in advance.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
TAC 864

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Sun Mar  6 05:35:56 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 07:35:56 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Seats
In-Reply-To: <4D7302B5.9050305@roadrunner.com>
References: <4D7302B5.9050305@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <83AEA0C7-FA33-4229-8480-27609CB90B50@gmail.com>

I got mine in an art shop.  just thick card.

On Mar 5, 2011, at 22:42, Tod Brown <todbrown at roadrunner.com> wrote:

> I've been redoing my seats and, so far, have them apart,  I would like to
replace the cardboard on the back of the seat frames which is in pretty sad
shape after almost forty-five years.  Does anyone have any advice on what to
use and where to get it?  My preference would be for something a bit more
moisture resistance than the original cardboard.  Thanks in advance.
>
> Tod
> B382002384LRXFE
> TAC 864
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From Parlanti at comcast.net  Sun Mar  6 06:16:56 2011
From: Parlanti at comcast.net (Joe Parlanti)
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 08:16:56 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Seats
In-Reply-To: <4D7302B5.9050305@roadrunner.com>
References: <4D7302B5.9050305@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <009501cbdc00$c4e87330$4eb95990$@net>

Tod,

Owain is correct, art board or mat board works just fine. I suspect that you
could also use automotive door board but it may be a little stiff. One thing
you may want to think about; some folks have added a very thin (1/8" - 1/4")
piece of foam to the outer side of the cardboard to give the back of the
seat a softer feel.

Good Luck,

JVP

Joseph V. Parlanti
16048 Copen Meadow Dr
North Potomac, Md. 20878
Cell - 301-461-0626
Email - Parlanti at comcast.net


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tod Brown
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2011 10:43 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Seats

I've been redoing my seats and, so far, have them apart,  I would like 
to replace the cardboard on the back of the seat frames which is in 
pretty sad shape after almost forty-five years.  Does anyone have any 
advice on what to use and where to get it?  My preference would be for 
something a bit more moisture resistance than the original cardboard.  
Thanks in advance.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
TAC 864

From rande at thecia.net  Sun Mar  6 06:25:17 2011
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 08:25:17 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] cardboard for seat backs
Message-ID: <4d738b3d.6cd9.0@thecia.net>

I think if I were replacing the stiffener material for the seat backs, I'd look
for a thin plastic, on the order of the material used for Rick's  replacement
trunk liner panels. It may need to be a bit thinner for the seat back, but it
would solve the moisture issue. If cardboard is still called for for your Tiger,
hopefully someone can offer a product to use.

Rande
B382000048

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Sun Mar  6 06:51:11 2011
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 08:51:11 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] cardboard for seat backs
In-Reply-To: <4d738b3d.6cd9.0@thecia.net>
References: <4d738b3d.6cd9.0@thecia.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimJkc4pfx-eJAsTC850Vt8CAZr+TQxmVsr3UXQu@mail.gmail.com>

Per the  Tigers United article, I used poster board, available at any office
supply store. It's a bit thicker than the original, which, BTW, showed some
discoloration but no deterioration after 40 + years.

Tom

' 67 Mark 2

On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 8:25 AM, rande <rande at thecia.net> wrote:

> I think if I were replacing the stiffener material for the seat backs, I'd
> look
> for a thin plastic, on the order of the material used for Rick's
>  replacement
> trunk liner panels. It may need to be a bit thinner for the seat back, but
> it
> would solve the moisture issue. If cardboard is still called for for your
> Tiger,
> hopefully someone can offer a product to use.
>
> Rande
> B382000048
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com  Sun Mar  6 08:46:38 2011
From: bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com (bob webb)
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 10:46:38 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] cardboard for seat backs
References: <4d738b3d.6cd9.0@thecia.net>
	<AANLkTimJkc4pfx-eJAsTC850Vt8CAZr+TQxmVsr3UXQu@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D2337A10D70647F398707CD3EFC8B718@yourze8cxvr8tt>

i bought the seat panels for my last two cars from rick at sunbeam 
specialties. he had them precut to fit the seats. i assume he still sells 
them.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
To: <rande at thecia.net>
Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>; <todbrown at roadrunner.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] cardboard for seat backs


> Per the  Tigers United article, I used poster board, available at any 
> office
> supply store. It's a bit thicker than the original, which, BTW, showed 
> some
> discoloration but no deterioration after 40 + years.
>
> Tom
>
> ' 67 Mark 2
>
> On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 8:25 AM, rande <rande at thecia.net> wrote:
>
>> I think if I were replacing the stiffener material for the seat backs, 
>> I'd
>> look
>> for a thin plastic, on the order of the material used for Rick's
>>  replacement
>> trunk liner panels. It may need to be a bit thinner for the seat back, 
>> but
>> it
>> would solve the moisture issue. If cardboard is still called for for your
>> Tiger,
>> hopefully someone can offer a product to use.
>>
>> Rande
>> B382000048
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Sun Mar  6 09:01:01 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 11:01:01 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] new heads
Message-ID: <AANLkTims8kY4y-O1fHVhuXry7gS_Pu5-z7K4uCQEfRKm@mail.gmail.com>

i'm thinking of trying out some new aluminum heads.   how should i choose
the combustion chamber volume and exhaust/intake runner volumes assuming i
want maximum compression safe to run on premium pump gas?

thanks.

From wseay at embarqmail.com  Sun Mar  6 10:45:32 2011
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 12:45:32 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] cardboard for seat backs
In-Reply-To: <D2337A10D70647F398707CD3EFC8B718@yourze8cxvr8tt>
References: <4d738b3d.6cd9.0@thecia.net>
	<AANLkTimJkc4pfx-eJAsTC850Vt8CAZr+TQxmVsr3UXQu@mail.gmail.com>
	<D2337A10D70647F398707CD3EFC8B718@yourze8cxvr8tt>
Message-ID: <001101cbdc26$4acce100$e066a300$@com>

Suggestion:  You will probably be using pop rivets to hold the cardboard in
place.  Because they stick up, the heads of the rivets are the first thing to
wear through the vinyl seat covering.  Put a strip of nylon tape over all the
rivet heads that will be against the vinyl so the rivets will be less likely to
wear through.


-Will B382001570 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of bob webb
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 10:47 AM
To: Tom Parker; rande at thecia.net
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net; todbrown at roadrunner.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] cardboard for seat backs

i bought the seat panels for my last two cars from rick at sunbeam 
specialties. he had them precut to fit the seats. i assume he still sells 
them.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
To: <rande at thecia.net>
Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>; <todbrown at roadrunner.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] cardboard for seat backs


> Per the  Tigers United article, I used poster board, available at any 
> office
> supply store. It's a bit thicker than the original, which, BTW, showed 
> some
> discoloration but no deterioration after 40 + years.
>
> Tom
>
> ' 67 Mark 2
>
> On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 8:25 AM, rande <rande at thecia.net> wrote:
>
>> I think if I were replacing the stiffener material for the seat backs, 
>> I'd
>> look
>> for a thin plastic, on the order of the material used for Rick's
>>  replacement
>> trunk liner panels. It may need to be a bit thinner for the seat back, 
>> but
>> it
>> would solve the moisture issue. If cardboard is still called for for your
>> Tiger,
>> hopefully someone can offer a product to use.
>>
>> Rande
>> B382000048

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Sun Mar  6 11:20:15 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (atwittsend at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 06 Mar 2011 12:20:15 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Seats
Message-ID: <1404021961.795288.1299435615560.JavaMail.root@vznit170136>


From Carmods at aol.com  Sun Mar  6 12:13:47 2011
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 14:13:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers]  Tiger Seats
Message-ID: <165ac.5944a34b.3aa536eb@aol.com>

I've been redoing my seats and, so far, have them apart,  I  would like 
to replace the cardboard on the back of the seat frames.   Does anyone have 
any 
advice? 
Tod
 
Tod,
This may be overkill but I replaced the back of my seats with thin  
galvanized steel pop riveted to the frame. I peened the edges over the tubing,  
filed any sharp edges and then glued on a sheet of thin foam before I put the  
covers on. The steel added structural stiffening the flexible frame and  
because of the curve of the seat frame, it has held it's shape for the last  
sixteen years.
 
John Logan

From CoolVT at aol.com  Sun Mar  6 12:48:02 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 14:48:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Seats
Message-ID: <412a.7c3b323e.3aa53ef2@aol.com>

Exactly, go to a good art shop and bring a piece of your cardboard.   They 
should give you 5 or 6 choices of thickness.  Ask for "poster  board".
M
 
 
In a message dated 3/6/2011 7:48:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
owain.lloyd at gmail.com writes:

I got  mine in an art shop.  just thick card.

On Mar 5, 2011, at 22:42,  Tod Brown <todbrown at roadrunner.com> wrote:

> I've been redoing  my seats and, so far, have them apart,  I would like to
replace the  cardboard on the back of the seat frames which is in pretty sad
shape after  almost forty-five years.  Does anyone have any advice on what 
to
use  and where to get it?  My preference would be for something a bit  more
moisture resistance than the original cardboard.  Thanks in  advance.
>
> Tod
> B382002384LRXFE
> TAC 864
>  _______________________________________________
>  Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From sjhcobra1 at cs.com  Sun Mar  6 18:50:54 2011
From: sjhcobra1 at cs.com (Steve Halbrook)
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 20:50:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Seats
In-Reply-To: <83AEA0C7-FA33-4229-8480-27609CB90B50@gmail.com>
References: <83AEA0C7-FA33-4229-8480-27609CB90B50@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CDAA813B3955F6-209C-20852@webmail-d027.sysops.aol.com>

Tod:
?
I have used the waterproof black heavy "posterboard" that the hot rodders and
upholstery shops use for door panels, kick panels etc. I have bought it
through a local upholstery shop.
?
Steve Halbrook





On Mar 5, 2011, at 22:42, Tod Brown &lt;todbrown at roadrunner.com&gt; wrote:

&gt; I've been redoing my seats and, so far, have them apart,  I would like to
replace the cardboard on the back of the seat frames which is in pretty sad
shape after almost forty-five years.  Does anyone have any advice on what to
use and where to get it?  My preference would be for something a bit more
moisture resistance than the original cardboard.  Thanks in advance.
&gt;
&gt; Tod
&gt; B382002384LRXFE
&gt; TAC 864
&gt; _______________________________________________
&gt; Tigers at autox.team.net
&gt; Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
&gt; Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
&gt; Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sjhcobra1 at cs.com

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Mon Mar  7 12:06:27 2011
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 13:06:27 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Fordsmallblock Book
Message-ID: <2D85CB131AED45DFB74C344FC1A7093A@jerry>

List,

 

Here is a good book to have.  If you don't already have it.

 

 

http://www.fordsmallblock.com/frame.htm

 

Jerry Christopherson

9473187

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Mon Mar  7 13:43:38 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 15:43:38 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Fordsmallblock Book
In-Reply-To: <2D85CB131AED45DFB74C344FC1A7093A@jerry>
Message-ID: <FD8CA29129104A5BAAB490B927A8FCB1@ronpc1>

Jerry 
	I agree; this is Bob Mannel's book and there is a button for changes
on that web page.  Bob continues to add and make changes as he finds new
information.

	I used this book when I was investigating the color of the B19KC
engines.    I also used it to make a baseline engine configuration for all
the Tiger engine groups in my Tiger Original Engine Study.  

Ron Fraser 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry & Maureen (Mo)
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2011 2:06 PM
To: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET
Subject: [Tigers] Fordsmallblock Book


List,

 

Here is a good book to have.  If you don't already have it.

 

 

http://www.fordsmallblock.com/frame.htm

 

Jerry Christopherson

9473187
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3487 - Release Date: 03/07/11
07:34:00

From CoolVT at aol.com  Mon Mar  7 14:02:20 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 16:02:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers] Gear ratios
Message-ID: <1cf9b0.2b60babd.3aa6a1dc@aol.com>

There always seems to be discussion on tranny ratios. Thought I'd throw in  
what Rootes used in another one of their cars.
 
1st  3.17:1
2nd  2.04:1
3rd   1.44:1
4th    1.00:1
 
Car weight   2,954
 
Max. power  90 bhp
 
Car  "Sunbeam 3 litre", 1920ish to 1926ish.
 
When you look at the numbers, not a huge difference from the 1960's  
Alpine.  I would suspect the listed weight of the 3 litre might not be  correct.
M

From allanballard at att.net  Tue Mar  8 08:11:32 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 10:11:32 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Original keys
In-Reply-To: <2D85CB131AED45DFB74C344FC1A7093A@jerry>
References: <2D85CB131AED45DFB74C344FC1A7093A@jerry>
Message-ID: <D27FC32F-8F46-4D8E-A07D-1F70F18D7D24@att.net>

Does anyone know how many, what type, shape and color original keys?

That would include ignition; console; doors; and trunk.

My logbook mentions an RM key and also a FS key.

I see indications that RM was a Rootes key and I *assume* that that includes
Tigers,
but so far I see only that FS is used for various British cars with no mention
of Rootes or Sunbeam....

Were the small Taylor keys (Taylor #: H62DG) aftermarket?

Rgds,

Allan Ballard
MK1a Tiger

From wseay at embarqmail.com  Tue Mar  8 09:39:18 2011
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 11:39:18 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Original keys
In-Reply-To: <D27FC32F-8F46-4D8E-A07D-1F70F18D7D24@att.net>
References: <2D85CB131AED45DFB74C344FC1A7093A@jerry>
	<D27FC32F-8F46-4D8E-A07D-1F70F18D7D24@att.net>
Message-ID: <001d01cbddaf$5eb5d020$1c217060$@com>

Allan,

I still have the original keys that came with my 1A, B382001570.  There are two
keys, The first fits ignition and doors.  Key has a rounded shape with "L & F"
on one side and "ROOTES" on the other.  Key number, in RMnnn format is on the
"ROOTES" side.  The other key fits console and trunk.  Key has a square shape
with "UNION" on one side and "WILMOT BREDEN" on the other.  Key number, in FSnnn
format, is on the "WILMOT BREDEN" side.  I think that there are some variations
on key designs.  TBON has pictures of various keys.

-Will B382001570

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 10:12 AM
To: Beamclub TIGER
Subject: [Tigers] Original keys

Does anyone know how many, what type, shape and color original keys?

That would include ignition; console; doors; and trunk.

My logbook mentions an RM key and also a FS key.

I see indications that RM was a Rootes key and I *assume* that that includes
Tigers,
but so far I see only that FS is used for various British cars with no mention
of Rootes or Sunbeam....

Were the small Taylor keys (Taylor #: H62DG) aftermarket?

Rgds,

Allan Ballard
MK1a Tiger

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Tue Mar  8 09:48:48 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 11:48:48 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] for auction in uk
Message-ID: <A0B2FDF1-56DC-4433-9811-EDE8976188BD@gmail.com>

www.barons-auctions.com/details.php?lotpath=lots/JKP300E.php

From cjrichardsauto at sbcglobal.net  Tue Mar  8 10:15:03 2011
From: cjrichardsauto at sbcglobal.net (Chris Richards)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 09:15:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] for auction in uk
Message-ID: <560565.19117.qm@web80508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Seems odd it has square corner doors and hood for being titled with MK1 numbers.

--- On Tue, 3/8/11, Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd at gmail.com>
Subject: [Tigers] for auction in uk
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, March 8, 2011, 8:48 AM


www.barons-auctions.com/details.php?lotpath=lots/JKP30

From FHSLOTH13 at aol.com  Tue Mar  8 10:23:25 2011
From: FHSLOTH13 at aol.com (FHSLOTH13 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 12:23:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers] for auction in uk
Message-ID: <63e97.65087688.3aa7c00d@aol.com>

This car looks like it has a square corner hood, which would have started  
with B9473100 according to the BON. The lighting in the photo makes it a  
little difficult to be definite on this.
 
Fred Baum
 
 
In a message dated 3/8/2011 11:52:53 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
owain.lloyd at gmail.com writes:

www.barons-auctions.com/details.php?lotpath=lots/JKP300E.php
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fhslo
th13 at aol.com

From Rollright at aol.com  Tue Mar  8 10:28:03 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 12:28:03 EST
Subject: [Tigers] chroming bumperettes (overriders)
Message-ID: <3ac49.272a707a.3aa7c123@aol.com>

Hello all,
 
I recently had two bumpers chromed. When they were delivered, I asked how  
much to do the bumperettes. The answer was, "oh probably about $ 70 each.
 
Though they were very reasonable on the bumpers, this seems really high for 
 the bumperettes.
 
Two things:
 
1) Reality check; anybody have experience on what these should cost to get  
nicely done?
2) Anybody know a shop that has done them nicely for a more reasonable  
price?
 
As they are so small and portable, shipping shouldn't be a problem (as  
opposed to bumpers).
 
Best to all,
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From CoolVT at aol.com  Tue Mar  8 10:30:28 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 12:30:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers] for auction in uk
Message-ID: <6358b.2cffb7c1.3aa7c1b4@aol.com>

It says.........."Offered here is a Tiger from the final production  year"
 
 
In a message dated 3/8/2011 12:23:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
FHSLOTH13 at aol.com writes:

This car  looks like it has a square corner hood, which would have started  
 
with B9473100 according to the BON. The lighting in the photo makes it  a  
little difficult to be definite on this.

Fred  Baum


In a message dated 3/8/2011 11:52:53 A.M. Eastern Standard  Time,  
owain.lloyd at gmail.com  writes:

www.barons-auctions.com/details.php?lotpath=lots/JKP300E.php
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:   http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:   http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:   http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:   http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fhslo
th13 at aol.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From maliburevue at yahoo.com  Tue Mar  8 11:34:09 2011
From: maliburevue at yahoo.com (Gary)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 10:34:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] chroming bumperettes (overriders)
In-Reply-To: <3ac49.272a707a.3aa7c123@aol.com>
Message-ID: <820802.74699.qm@web33207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jim,
 
I paid $40 apiece to chrome mine 8 years ago. $70 does not seem high to me,
especially with today's environmental requirements.
 
Gary

--- On Tue, 3/8/11, Rollright at aol.com <Rollright at aol.com> wrote:


From: Rollright at aol.com <Rollright at aol.com>
Subject: [Tigers] chroming bumperettes (overriders)
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Date: Tuesday, March 8, 2011, 9:28 AM


Hello all,

I recently had two bumpers chromed. When they were delivered, I asked how 
much to do the bumperettes. The answer was, "oh probably about $ 70 each.

Though they were very reasonable on the bumpers, this seems really high for
the bumperettes.

Two things:

1) Reality check; anybody have experience on what these should cost to get 
nicely done?
2) Anybody know a shop that has done them nicely for a more reasonable 
price?

As they are so small and portable, shipping shouldn't be a problem (as 
opposed to bumpers).

Best to all,

Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/maliburevue at yahoo.com

From CoolVT at aol.com  Tue Mar  8 12:26:51 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 14:26:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers] chroming bumperettes (overriders)
Message-ID: <3bdfe.7695826b.3aa7dcfa@aol.com>

Probably gotta find a way to have it done in Mexico;-)
 
 
In a message dated 3/8/2011 1:37:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
maliburevue at yahoo.com writes:

Jim,

I paid $40 apiece to chrome mine 8 years ago. $70 does  not seem high to me,
especially with today's environmental  requirements.

Gary

--- On Tue, 3/8/11, Rollright at aol.com  <Rollright at aol.com> wrote:


From: Rollright at aol.com  <Rollright at aol.com>
Subject: [Tigers] chroming bumperettes  (overriders)
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Date: Tuesday, March 8, 2011,  9:28 AM


Hello all,

I recently had two bumpers chromed. When  they were delivered, I asked how 
much to do the bumperettes. The answer  was, "oh probably about $ 70 each.

Though they were very reasonable on  the bumpers, this seems really high for
the bumperettes.

Two  things:

1) Reality check; anybody have experience on what these should  cost to get 
nicely done?
2) Anybody know a shop that has done them  nicely for a more reasonable 
price?

As they are so small and  portable, shipping shouldn't be a problem (as 
opposed to  bumpers).

Best to all,

Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A  382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/maliburevue at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From sralsten111 at gmail.com  Tue Mar  8 12:47:56 2011
From: sralsten111 at gmail.com (Steve Ralsten)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 11:47:56 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] chroming bumperettes (overriders)
In-Reply-To: <3ac49.272a707a.3aa7c123@aol.com>
References: <3ac49.272a707a.3aa7c123@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinHntH0CpF6SSYEfWeMaaJW5mjdTWfNP3sYesg3@mail.gmail.com>

So this is why tigers are starting to rise?  Bumperette costs?
On Mar 8, 2011 9:37 AM, <Rollright at aol.com> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I recently had two bumpers chromed. When they were delivered, I asked how
> much to do the bumperettes. The answer was, "oh probably about $ 70 each.
>
> Though they were very reasonable on the bumpers, this seems really high
for
> the bumperettes.
>
> Two things:
>
> 1) Reality check; anybody have experience on what these should cost to get

> nicely done?
> 2) Anybody know a shop that has done them nicely for a more reasonable
> price?
>
> As they are so small and portable, shipping shouldn't be a problem (as
> opposed to bumpers).
>
> Best to all,
>
> Jim Armstrong
> Mk 1A 382002083
> LRXFE
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sralsten111 at gmail.com

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Mar  8 15:16:07 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 09:16:07 +1100
Subject: [Tigers] for auction in uk
In-Reply-To: <6358b.2cffb7c1.3aa7c1b4@aol.com>
References: <6358b.2cffb7c1.3aa7c1b4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=fqzzo_0_QOQzGxVSkURaFc4cFf9ERfYozocEe@mail.gmail.com>

It says first registered in 1967.. which would be the last year of
production, but this is not a MKII.. or even a MKIA. Itmight be a cross over
body MKI, but maybe it was unregistered for a while? Seems odd for a home
market car not to have been sold around its production date... i know US
cars sometimes took a while but there was a more limited supply of the HRO
cars.

On 9 March 2011 04:30, <CoolVT at aol.com> wrote:

> It says.........."Offered here is a Tiger from the final production  year"
>
>
> In a message dated 3/8/2011 12:23:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>  FHSLOTH13 at aol.com writes:
>
> This car  looks like it has a square corner hood, which would have started
>
> with B9473100 according to the BON. The lighting in the photo makes it  a
> little difficult to be definite on this.
>
> Fred  Baum
>
>
> In a message dated 3/8/2011 11:52:53 A.M. Eastern Standard  Time,
> owain.lloyd at gmail.com  writes:
>
> www.barons-auctions.com/details.php?lotpath=lots/JKP300E.php
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:   http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:   http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:   http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:   http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fhslo
> th13 at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
>  _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From jefferyrandall at gmail.com  Tue Mar  8 19:18:24 2011
From: jefferyrandall at gmail.com (Jeffery Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 21:18:24 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] chroming bumperettes (overriders)
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinHntH0CpF6SSYEfWeMaaJW5mjdTWfNP3sYesg3@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3ac49.272a707a.3aa7c123@aol.com>
	<AANLkTinHntH0CpF6SSYEfWeMaaJW5mjdTWfNP3sYesg3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim-KBonMY6i0ByHgr+cW2qKi4u3c-BYGj_pBF8D@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Jim,
   I just got this months Hemmings and noticed a couple ads for crome work ,
check it out.
     Regards,
    Jeff

On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 2:47 PM, Steve Ralsten <sralsten111 at gmail.com> wrote:

> So this is why tigers are starting to rise?  Bumperette costs?
>  On Mar 8, 2011 9:37 AM, <Rollright at aol.com> wrote:
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I recently had two bumpers chromed. When they were delivered, I asked how
> > much to do the bumperettes. The answer was, "oh probably about $ 70 each.
> >
> > Though they were very reasonable on the bumpers, this seems really high
> for
> > the bumperettes.
> >
> > Two things:
> >
> > 1) Reality check; anybody have experience on what these should cost to
> get
>
> > nicely done?
> > 2) Anybody know a shop that has done them nicely for a more reasonable
> > price?
> >
> > As they are so small and portable, shipping shouldn't be a problem (as
> > opposed to bumpers).
> >
> > Best to all,
> >
> > Jim Armstrong
> > Mk 1A 382002083
> > LRXFE
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sralsten111 at gmail.com
>  _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall at gmail.com

From bobdixon at frii.com  Tue Mar  8 21:40:53 2011
From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon)
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 21:40:53 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] A duh moment
References: <73522.4653a08.3aa2c903@aol.com><846D19DCF248419C87D18C663B912B8A@student2>
	<003c01cbdb56$490bc690$db2353b0$@net>
Message-ID: <38FB59A0C53740A6A6687B487FA32D64@BobsDell>

This is probably obvious to most but maybe someone will learn from my 
mistake.

I just finished installing my new 289 engine and newly rebuilt crossmember 
and did some measuring to make sure I got the right starter.  After doing 
some reading I came across a discussion about differences between 
bellhousings and flywheels.   That got me to thinking.  When I had my engine 
built, the builder noticed that I had a 164 tooth flywheel and thought I 
should use a 157 tooth flywheel in the Tiger.  Makes sense.  It never 
occured to me that the bellhousing I had acquired years ago ( hard to find 
narrow bolt pattern toploader to 6 bolt engine case ) that came out of my 
previous Tiger, might not work.  It came out of a Tiger with a 289 after 
all.

Well, I just measured the starter location.  Turns out it is a bellhousing 
for a 164 tooth flywheel.  I am so screwed.  I was already on a tight 
schedule getting the Tiger ready for the Pikes Peak Hill Climb.

Take care,
Bob 

From allanballard at att.net  Wed Mar  9 15:38:45 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 17:38:45 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Original keys
In-Reply-To: <001d01cbddaf$5eb5d020$1c217060$@com>
References: <2D85CB131AED45DFB74C344FC1A7093A@jerry>
	<D27FC32F-8F46-4D8E-A07D-1F70F18D7D24@att.net>
	<001d01cbddaf$5eb5d020$1c217060$@com>
Message-ID: <EEDC27C2-3774-4E84-A597-395E9CDD03B3@att.net>

Thanks folks for helping with the keys.

I've ordered a set.

Now, if only the rebuilder will ever finish the engine...

Today I noticed that a nimrod had painted the factory distributor silver!

Definitely had my good upbringing tested.

Allan Ballard
MK1a Tiger
SIV Alpine

On Mar 8, 2011, at 11:39 AM, Will Seay wrote:

> Allan,
>
> I still have the original keys that came with my 1A, B382001570.  There are
two
> keys, The first fits ignition and doors.  Key has a rounded shape with "L &
F"
> on one side and "ROOTES" on the other.  Key number, in RMnnn format is on
the
> "ROOTES" side.  The other key fits console and trunk.  Key has a square
shape
> with "UNION" on one side and "WILMOT BREDEN" on the other.  Key number, in
FSnnn
> format, is on the "WILMOT BREDEN" side.  I think that there are some
variations
> on key designs.  TBON has pictures of various keys.
>
> -Will B382001570
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On
> Behalf Of Allan Ballard
> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 10:12 AM
> To: Beamclub TIGER
> Subject: [Tigers] Original keys
>
> Does anyone know how many, what type, shape and color original keys?
>
> That would include ignition; console; doors; and trunk.
>
> My logbook mentions an RM key and also a FS key.
>
> I see indications that RM was a Rootes key and I *assume* that that
includes
> Tigers,
> but so far I see only that FS is used for various British cars with no
mention
> of Rootes or Sunbeam....
>
> Were the small Taylor keys (Taylor #: H62DG) aftermarket?
>
> Rgds,
>
> Allan Ballard
> MK1a Tiger

From rande at thecia.net  Wed Mar  9 16:21:03 2011
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 18:21:03 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] ordering Tiger keys
Message-ID: <4d780b5f.6f74.0@thecia.net>

Maybe someone else has mentioned this guy, but someone named Pete Groh advertises
in the British Marque that he sells Wilmot Breedon keys. He asks people to send
him the code number from the ignition switch with a self addressed stamped envelope,
and he'll do them.

His contact info is:

Pete Groh
9957 Frederick Rd
Ellicot City, MD 21042-3647
(410)750-2352
http://britishcarkeys.com
petegroh at yahoo.com

I took this info from the Jan/Feb 2010 issue.


RB
B382000048

From sunbeamtiger at prodigy.net  Thu Mar 10 05:50:12 2011
From: sunbeamtiger at prodigy.net (Paul R Sheahan)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 04:50:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] Spring Florida TAC Event Saturday April 9th
Message-ID: <45212.21320.qm@web83706.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Tiger Owners,    
      On Saturday April 9th Steve and Carole Halbrook will be hosting our
first TAC Event of the year at their home at 2857 Timber Knoll Drive in
Valrico, Florida.  If you are interested in having your Tiger TAC'd, please
let me know by a reply to this email or calling me at 704-564-3831.   If your
car has been TAC'd or you just want to drop in to talk with fellow owners,
come on by.  We will start around 10:30am. 
      We look forward to seeing you there
.
Paul
Paul R Sheahan

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Thu Mar 10 09:30:52 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 08:30:52 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] ordering Tiger keys
References: <4d780b5f.6f74.0@thecia.net>
Message-ID: <D04BF302CD0C403E953CF148910BF037@student2>

 >>>He asks people to send him the code number from the ignition switch with 
a self addressed stamped envelope,<<<

Hum..., he has the key number - and your address... (not implying anything 
against the key guy, only the concept of giving out the key number and your 
address).

Then again the key codes are listed in TBON.  Well..., it looks like we have 
a thousand suspects right there.

I'd at least pull the coil wire.  What with the faulty Tiger hood release it 
may be a great theft deterrent.

All said in fun, - but with an air of caution.

Tom

PS Are the correct cut keys (not just the appropriate blanks) part of a 
Concours?

From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar 10 15:39:01 2011
From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 17:39:01 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Alan Fraser History
Message-ID: <775AFA472E204E3097932AACC9F7E102@jeffnicholsPC>

I don't know if this has been posted before but  here is a good history of
Alan Fraser who had a team of Rootes cars including Tigers back in the
1960's.  Included is a link to a Rootes prototype sports car , the Asp,
based on the Imp that was never put into production.    
 <http://tardis.dl.ac.uk/Mercia/Fraser/fraser_history.html>
http://tardis.dl.ac.uk/Mercia/Fraser/fraser_history.html

 

 

 
Jeff

From strombecker at telus.net  Thu Mar 10 15:51:09 2011
From: strombecker at telus.net (Terry)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 15:51:09 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] ordering Tiger keys
In-Reply-To: <D04BF302CD0C403E953CF148910BF037@student2>
References: <4d780b5f.6f74.0@thecia.net>
	<D04BF302CD0C403E953CF148910BF037@student2>
Message-ID: <127773C4D08A43EDB3D5F1E91813F77A@TerryPC>

I think the last thing I would worry about is my key code.  Let me see, 
insert knife into soft top and open car, unplug the wires from the ignition 
and short them out and your on the road running.  Most people don't know 
what a Tiger is, and if they do, they are proffesionals.  If he got my key 
code from the book of Norm, he must be a wealthy proffesional theif if he 
could buy the book.  Then buy the key blank and a cutting machine.  With the 
cost of the book of Norm, he may break even on the car...LOL.  Better start 
locking up your book of Norm, it is appreciating faster than the car.  Hmmm 
your adress, go to the Norm site look up TAC cars, if you got it TACed, it 
is probably a nice car if you took the time to have it done.   You may have 
a book of Norm too, look up name on TAC site, look up address for name on 
the internet, as the state or province is given on the site.  Now have name 
and address.  Would you really worry about the key guy.  I would be more 
worried about the TAC site and internet.  With the prices of the book of 
Norm, the theif will probably walk right by the car and go for the book.  I 
would be more worried about the book, thank god I don't have one ... LOL.

This is all in fun

Terry XXXXXXXXX
BXXXXXX
Address Unknown
Key XXXX

Just incase a theif is reading and subscribing to our forum and getting all 
our names and information, how far and how much we have restored our cars.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] ordering Tiger keys


> >>>He asks people to send him the code number from the ignition switch 
> >>>with
> a self addressed stamped envelope,<<<
>
> Hum..., he has the key number - and your address... (not implying anything 
> against the key guy, only the concept of giving out the key number and 
> your address).
>
> Then again the key codes are listed in TBON.  Well..., it looks like we 
> have a thousand suspects right there.
>
> I'd at least pull the coil wire.  What with the faulty Tiger hood release 
> it may be a great theft deterrent.
>
> All said in fun, - but with an air of caution.
>
> Tom
>
> PS Are the correct cut keys (not just the appropriate blanks) part of a 
> Concours?
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/strombecker at telus.net

From allanballard at att.net  Thu Mar 10 18:19:05 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 20:19:05 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Correct dizzy
In-Reply-To: <775AFA472E204E3097932AACC9F7E102@jeffnicholsPC>
References: <775AFA472E204E3097932AACC9F7E102@jeffnicholsPC>
Message-ID: <9478312A-888A-42E4-A855-D707DC9F69F1@att.net>

Does anyone have the part # for the correct MK1a distributor?

My engine rebuilder is willing to remove the aluminum paint he applied but has
convinced me
that the distributor has lost all visual appeal after sitting up so many
years.

So I thought I'd see if a correct replacement is available...?

Thanks in advance,

Allan Ballard
MK1a Tiger

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Mar 10 18:57:03 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 20:57:03 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Correct dizzy
In-Reply-To: <9478312A-888A-42E4-A855-D707DC9F69F1@att.net>
Message-ID: <C1922B3637D84253AB49F874F2147E03@ronpc1>

Allan
	The Mk IA has a later style distributor or exactly what all the
Mustang catalogs carry.
The later style distributor has the tri lobe center section; the early style
has an oil port and a round center section.
The early style distributor is obsolete.

National Parts Depot	#12127-4A	65-73 260,289,302  later style
distributor

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 8:19 PM
To: Beamclub TIGER
Subject: [Tigers] Correct dizzy


Does anyone have the part # for the correct MK1a distributor?

My engine rebuilder is willing to remove the aluminum paint he applied but
has convinced me that the distributor has lost all visual appeal after
sitting up so many years.

So I thought I'd see if a correct replacement is available...?

Thanks in advance,

Allan Ballard
MK1a Tiger
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3493 - Release Date: 03/10/11
07:34:00

From e.coiner at cox.net  Thu Mar 10 18:59:50 2011
From: e.coiner at cox.net (e.coiner at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 17:59:50 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Correct dizzy
In-Reply-To: <9478312A-888A-42E4-A855-D707DC9F69F1@att.net>
Message-ID: <20110310205950.WKSHU.10302.imail@fed1rmwml36>

See this thread on the Concours Mustang forum.

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=609.0

This is a resource to restore your dizzy.




---- Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net> wrote: 
> Does anyone have the part # for the correct MK1a distributor?
> 
> My engine rebuilder is willing to remove the aluminum paint he applied but has
> convinced me
> that the distributor has lost all visual appeal after sitting up so many
> years.
> 
> So I thought I'd see if a correct replacement is available...?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Allan Ballard
> MK1a Tiger
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner at cox.net

From zimme008 at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 10 19:17:14 2011
From: zimme008 at yahoo.com (Randy Zimmermann)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 18:17:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] Correct dizzy
In-Reply-To: <20110310205950.WKSHU.10302.imail@fed1rmwml36>
References: <20110310205950.WKSHU.10302.imail@fed1rmwml36>
Message-ID: <746659.52452.qm@web56407.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I just had mine rebuilt by Tim and from what I can tell he does very good work, 
was easy to communicate with and very straightforward.

Randy Z
Duluth, MN
Tiger MkIa




________________________________
From: "e.coiner at cox.net" <e.coiner at cox.net>
To: Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net>; Beamclub TIGER <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, March 10, 2011 7:59:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Correct dizzy

See this thread on the Concours Mustang forum.

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=609.0

This is a resource to restore your dizzy.




---- Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net> wrote: 
> Does anyone have the part # for the correct MK1a distributor?
> 
> My engine rebuilder is willing to remove the aluminum paint he applied but has
> convinced me
> that the distributor has lost all visual appeal after sitting up so many
> years.
> 
> So I thought I'd see if a correct replacement is available...?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Allan Ballard
> MK1a Tiger
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner at cox.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/zimme008 at yahoo.com

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Thu Mar 10 19:47:10 2011
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 21:47:10 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] ordering Tiger keys
In-Reply-To: <4d780b5f.6f74.0@thecia.net>
References: <4d780b5f.6f74.0@thecia.net>
Message-ID: <EC5CC895-C7BD-49EB-B4F8-C30A687BCDA0@blakedischer.com>

I can vouch for Pete.
Good guy, supporter of, and participant in, our hobby.
NFI, etc.
________________________________________________________________________
Blake J. Discher, President
Vintage Triumph Register
(Yep, an interloper, but I've always loved the Tiger!)




Please consider your environmental responsibility before printing this email.

On Mar 9, 2011, at 6:21 PM, rande wrote:

> Maybe someone else has mentioned this guy, but someone named Pete Groh
advertises
> in the British Marque that he sells Wilmot Breedon keys. He asks people to
send
> him the code number from the ignition switch with a self addressed stamped
envelope,
> and he'll do them.
>
> His contact info is:
>
> Pete Groh
> 9957 Frederick Rd
> Ellicot City, MD 21042-3647
> (410)750-2352
> http://britishcarkeys.com
> petegroh at yahoo.com
>
> I took this info from the Jan/Feb 2010 issue.

From drarmacost at pmlights.com  Fri Mar 11 06:41:33 2011
From: drarmacost at pmlights.com (Armacost, Don Jr.)
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 07:41:33 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] ordering Tiger keys
In-Reply-To: <127773C4D08A43EDB3D5F1E91813F77A@TerryPC>
References: <4d780b5f.6f74.0@thecia.net>
	<D04BF302CD0C403E953CF148910BF037@student2>
	<127773C4D08A43EDB3D5F1E91813F77A@TerryPC>
Message-ID: <0C72B17E-D3ED-429E-AD6D-94650F5606E0@pmlights.com>

Use the address of a non Tiger owner in another state for the "self addressed envelope". Problem solved.



On Mar 10, 2011, at 4:53 PM, "Terry" <strombecker at telus.net> wrote:

> I think the last thing I would worry about is my key code.  Let me see, insert knife into soft top and open car, unplug the wires from the ignition and short them out and your on the road running.  Most people don't know what a Tiger is, and if they do, they are proffesionals.  If he got my key code from the book of Norm, he must be a wealthy proffesional theif if he could buy the book.  Then buy the key blank and a cutting machine.  With the cost of the book of Norm, he may break even on the car...LOL.  Better start locking up your book of Norm, it is appreciating faster than the car.  Hmmm your adress, go to the Norm site look up TAC cars, if you got it TACed, it is probably a nice car if you took the time to have it done.   You may have a book of Norm too, look up name on TAC site, look up address for name on the internet, as the state or province is given on the site.  Now have name and address.  Would you really worry about the key guy.  I would be more worried about the TAC site and internet.  With the prices of the book of Norm, the theif will probably walk right by the car and go for the book.  I would be more worried about the book, thank god I don't have one ... LOL.
> 
> This is all in fun
> 
> Terry XXXXXXXXX
> BXXXXXX
> Address Unknown
> Key XXXX
> 
> Just incase a theif is reading and subscribing to our forum and getting all our names and information, how far and how much we have restored our cars.
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>
> To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 9:30 AM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] ordering Tiger keys
> 
> 
>> >>>He asks people to send him the code number from the ignition switch >>>with
>> a self addressed stamped envelope,<<<
>> 
>> Hum..., he has the key number - and your address... (not implying anything against the key guy, only the concept of giving out the key number and your address).
>> 
>> Then again the key codes are listed in TBON.  Well..., it looks like we have a thousand suspects right there.
>> 
>> I'd at least pull the coil wire.  What with the faulty Tiger hood release it may be a great theft deterrent.
>> 
>> All said in fun, - but with an air of caution.
>> 
>> Tom
>> 
>> PS Are the correct cut keys (not just the appropriate blanks) part of a Concours?
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/strombecker at telus.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drarmacost at pmlights.com
> 

This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the Recipient. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute, copy or alter this email. Any views or opinions presented in this email are solely those of the author and might not represent those of Peterson Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, Mission Plastics North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) . Warning: Although Peterson Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, Mission Plastics North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) has taken reasonable precautions to ensure no viruses are present in this email, the company cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage arising from the use of this email or attachments.

From Rollright at aol.com  Fri Mar 11 07:57:25 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 09:57:25 EST
Subject: [Tigers] more on the ASP
Message-ID: <99bb4.3eda876d.3aab9255@aol.com>

Hello,
 
Another link to the Asp. 
 
What a beautiful Rootes car, and with that Coventry Climax engine !
 
_http://tardis.dl.ac.uk/Mercia/killeen_book/node13.html_ 
(http://tardis.dl.ac.uk/Mercia/killeen_book/node13.html) 
 
 
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From allanballard at att.net  Fri Mar 11 09:30:49 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 11:30:49 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] MK1a Originality question
In-Reply-To: <63e97.65087688.3aa7c00d@aol.com>
References: <63e97.65087688.3aa7c00d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C6127E44-343E-4CC2-A739-BE07410857DA@att.net>

I have a very early MK1a :   ......000090.

When using a LAT1 aluminum F4B Intake, is the thermostat housing supposed to
be
painted aluminum color?

Thanks in advance,

Allan Ballard
Mk1A Tiger

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Mar 11 10:09:44 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 12:09:44 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] MK1a Originality question
In-Reply-To: <C6127E44-343E-4CC2-A739-BE07410857DA@att.net>
Message-ID: <63BD662999B54049A81E35C8B95CAF2B@ronpc1>

Allan
	The stock MK IA engine for your Tiger was painted black.  To me it
would look funny to have a black housing mounted on an aluminum intake.
TBON shows an aluminum intake with a thermostat housing that looks like
natural color.

	I think a color similar to the aluminum intake color is the way to
go.  You could wire brush the housing then apply a clear or matte paint to
protect it.   There are other products that give a natural color too.

	This is really a case of what looks right to you; the aluminum paint
or natural.  Pick one and go with it.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2011 11:31 AM
To: Beamclub TIGER
Subject: [Tigers] MK1a Originality question


I have a very early MK1a :   ......000090.

When using a LAT1 aluminum F4B Intake, is the thermostat housing supposed to
be painted aluminum color?

Thanks in advance,

Allan Ballard
Mk1A Tiger
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3496 - Release Date: 03/11/11
08:17:00

From awtiger at cox.net  Fri Mar 11 12:32:35 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 14:32:35 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] MK1a Originality question
In-Reply-To: <63BD662999B54049A81E35C8B95CAF2B@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <20110311143235.FQROG.19387.imail@eastrmwml39>

Well, let's think about this for a minute.  If a customer wanted the LAT
intake put on their car before they picked it up from the dealer, it's my
understanding that it would have been installed "post build;" i.e. after the
car reached the U.S.  They were not installed on the Rootes production line.
So, that means that the original intake would have been removed from the car
and the new aluminum intake installed.  The original piece, along with it's
thermostat housing, would have been painted either blue or black, depending
upon which batch of engines that particular motor came from.  It seems highly
unlikely to me that someone would have taken the time to repaint the
thermostat housing to match the intake.  Consequently, my money would be on
the thermostat housing remaining the same color as the rest of the motor.  The
only exception to that, however, could be if the LAT intake was supplied with
a new, natural-colored thermostat housing.  Maybe someone on the list could
shed some light on that possibility.

Personally, in light of the fact that options such as these were installed
after the factory build, I'd be willing to bet that some had original color
housings and some had natural housings.  Therefore, when striving for
originality, I don't think either one should have points taken off in a
concours situation, simply because the car was subject to which mechanic
installed the option and how much time he had to do it.  It could be that
simple...

My .02 worth,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

From strombecker at telus.net  Fri Mar 11 13:29:46 2011
From: strombecker at telus.net (Terry)
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 13:29:46 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] MK1a Originality question
In-Reply-To: <20110311143235.FQROG.19387.imail@eastrmwml39>
References: <20110311143235.FQROG.19387.imail@eastrmwml39>
Message-ID: <9A2EF0CBF72944BA929A10871A0241FA@TerryPC>

I would think that the thermostat housing would have been the engine color. 
When the shelby engines were made, they took the 289 (271hp) motors and put 
the cobra intake on them, the thermostat housing was left the engine color. 
I would assume the same would have been for the Tiger.

Terry
B9471362

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <awtiger at cox.net>
To: "'Allan Ballard'" <allanballard at att.net>; "'Beamclub TIGER'" 
<tigers at autox.team.net>; <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2011 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK1a Originality question


> Well, let's think about this for a minute.  If a customer wanted the LAT
> intake put on their car before they picked it up from the dealer, it's my
> understanding that it would have been installed "post build;" i.e. after 
> the
> car reached the U.S.  They were not installed on the Rootes production 
> line.
> So, that means that the original intake would have been removed from the 
> car
> and the new aluminum intake installed.  The original piece, along with 
> it's
> thermostat housing, would have been painted either blue or black, 
> depending
> upon which batch of engines that particular motor came from.  It seems 
> highly
> unlikely to me that someone would have taken the time to repaint the
> thermostat housing to match the intake.  Consequently, my money would be 
> on
> the thermostat housing remaining the same color as the rest of the motor. 
> The
> only exception to that, however, could be if the LAT intake was supplied 
> with
> a new, natural-colored thermostat housing.  Maybe someone on the list 
> could
> shed some light on that possibility.
>
> Personally, in light of the fact that options such as these were installed
> after the factory build, I'd be willing to bet that some had original 
> color
> housings and some had natural housings.  Therefore, when striving for
> originality, I don't think either one should have points taken off in a
> concours situation, simply because the car was subject to which mechanic
> installed the option and how much time he had to do it.  It could be that
> simple...
>
> My .02 worth,
> Andy Walker
> Edmond, OK
> B382001600LRXFE
> TAC #740
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/strombecker at telus.net

From j_d_johnson at earthlink.net  Fri Mar 11 15:31:07 2011
From: j_d_johnson at earthlink.net (J D Johnson)
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 14:31:07 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] MK1a Originality question
In-Reply-To: <9A2EF0CBF72944BA929A10871A0241FA@TerryPC>
References: <20110311143235.FQROG.19387.imail@eastrmwml39>
	<9A2EF0CBF72944BA929A10871A0241FA@TerryPC>
Message-ID: <E1PyAsQ-0006wz-1F@elasmtp-kukur.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Maybe an actual image of the 4bbl installation will answer the question....
Page 102 Chittenden's Performance Tuning:
http://frkbmq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pFgBLSPMhtfGKjk5Fe2pFcVZhnnZwnZ2Vf-7L8C9GUl_FZO6saXey7R4Ozjb1rzqsT0NK3TBSNSFxI_3EXgyeiiDXjzttDYAY/chittenden-pg102.jpg?psid=1

JD

At 12:29 PM 3/11/2011, Terry wrote:
>I would think that the thermostat housing would have been the engine 
>color. When the shelby engines were made, they took the 289 (271hp) 
>motors and put the cobra intake on them, the thermostat housing was 
>left the engine color. I would assume the same would have been for the Tiger.

From MTaylor at ea.com  Fri Mar 11 16:21:16 2011
From: MTaylor at ea.com (Taylor, Matthew)
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 15:21:16 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] MK1a Originality question
In-Reply-To: <E1PyAsQ-0006wz-1F@elasmtp-kukur.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <20110311143235.FQROG.19387.imail@eastrmwml39>
	<9A2EF0CBF72944BA929A10871A0241FA@TerryPC>
	<E1PyAsQ-0006wz-1F@elasmtp-kukur.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <3FA9E5EE4E0C2F4C8A5F7E8D718A0F965F2599F144@NA-MAIL-1-1.rws.ad.ea.com>

I always thought they used a bare aluminum housing like in the picture that JD
just posted.  That picture was taken in 1966 after the motor was rebuilt.  So
I went back and looked at a picture of the same car from very late 64 or very
early 65 when the LAT 1 induction kit was first installed, and the housing is
painted black.  I had not noticed that until just now.

Matthew

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of J D Johnson

Maybe an actual image of the 4bbl installation will answer the question....
Page 102 Chittenden's Performance Tuning:
http://frkbmq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pFgBLSPMhtfGKjk5Fe2pFcVZhnnZwnZ2Vf-7L8C
9GUl_FZO6saXey7R4Ozjb1rzqsT0NK3TBSNSFxI_3EXgyeiiDXjzttDYAY/chittenden-pg102.j
pg?psid=1

JD

At 12:29 PM 3/11/2011, Terry wrote:
>I would think that the thermostat housing would have been the engine
>color. When the shelby engines were made, they took the 289 (271hp)
>motors and put the cobra intake on them, the thermostat housing was
>left the engine color. I would assume the same would have been for the
Tiger.
_______________________________________________

From allanballard at att.net  Fri Mar 11 16:41:47 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 18:41:47 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Correct dizzy
In-Reply-To: <C1922B3637D84253AB49F874F2147E03@ronpc1>
References: <C1922B3637D84253AB49F874F2147E03@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <2A85E300-51DF-454E-A6A7-7B28F9217271@att.net>

Thanks Ron and all who responded.

I ordered the referenced distributor.

Allan Ballard
MK1a Tiger
SIV Alpine

On Mar 10, 2011, at 8:57 PM, Ron Fraser wrote:

> Allan
> 	The Mk IA has a later style distributor or exactly what all the
> Mustang catalogs carry.
> The later style distributor has the tri lobe center section; the early
style
> has an oil port and a round center section.
> The early style distributor is obsolete.
>
> National Parts Depot	#12127-4A	65-73 260,289,302  later style
> distributor
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
> Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 8:19 PM
> To: Beamclub TIGER
> Subject: [Tigers] Correct dizzy
>
>
> Does anyone have the part # for the correct MK1a distributor?
>
> My engine rebuilder is willing to remove the aluminum paint he applied but
> has convinced me that the distributor has lost all visual appeal after
> sitting up so many years.
>
> So I thought I'd see if a correct replacement is available...?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Allan Ballard
> MK1a Tiger
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3493 - Release Date: 03/10/11
> 07:34:00

From huroner at basicisp.net  Fri Mar 11 21:01:57 2011
From: huroner at basicisp.net (Rob)
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 23:01:57 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] 1966 Sunbeam Tiger Mk 1A For Sale
Message-ID: <000301cbe06a$3c563930$b502ab90$@net>

1966 Sunbeam Tiger Mk1A, Dark Metallic Green

B3820001560

2nd owner, since 6/10/1969

~67000 Miles on car

garage stored & not running since August 1983

NO RUST EVER & never been in an accident or driven in snow or on salted
roads.

Completely painted underbody & frame in 1973

 

2 engines available, original stock 260 & 289 with "K" Hi-Po heads, ported &
polished, 327 FI Chevy valves

Headers that need recoating

stock cast iron exhaust manifolds

stock bellhousing & Lakewood scattershield

Holley 1850 4 bbl carb

2 cast iron 2 bbl intake manifolds & 4 bbl high rise Ford experimental
polished & ported aluminum manifold

Harland Sharp roller rockers

Deepened oil pan & pick up

Numerous camshafts 

3 or more crankshafts & flywheels

Hi-Po crank damper

No useable clutch

 

2 transmissions, HEH-E wide & -B close ratio

2 rear axle assemblies, 2.88 & 3.73 gear sets, painted

Addco front & rear sway bars

stock & 335 Lb/ in front springs

stock & heavy duty C.A.T. rear springs

Rear suspension traction bars, welded at front attachment

C.A.T roll bar (not installed)

needs a new convertible top because the plastic rear window is opaque

Leather Seat Covers (not installed)

stock Tonneau cover & stock folded top cover

New windshield (crated & not installed) & installed windshield with an end
crack

2 front hoods, 1 with hood scoop, square cornered

high cooling capacity aluminum radiator

stock & numerous (20+) adaptable cooling fans

All stock interior panels & new carpeting, needs to be installed

6 cast aluminum wheels - (4) 13x7 & (2) 13x6 American Racing Vectors with
center caps

Flared fenders around the wheel wells for 235 mm wide tire clearances 

3 stock rims with 4 sets of trim rings & hub caps

All front & side chrome trim (not installed)

Stock chrome bumpers and extra bumper over-riders

Many additional spare parts.

42 years worth of accumulated shop notes & Sunbeam Tiger literature, on
paper & DVDs

 

Best Offer.

 

Rob Hogan

Marshall, Michigan

 

 

New & never used car hauler also available. 

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sat Mar 12 09:19:15 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 11:19:15 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] MK1a Originality question
In-Reply-To: <E1PyAsQ-0006wz-1F@elasmtp-kukur.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <5849656E49C944AC8C3E8CD0D89AB0BE@ronpc1>

JD
	Interesting picture.

	One reason for changing the thermostat housing has to do with the
combination of parts.  Ford moved the thermostat pocket from the intake
manifold to the thermostat housing about Feb/March 1965 time frame.   You
need to have the correct combination of parts here so depending on when the
intake manifold was cast you might need a new thermostat housing.

Back to the interesting picture; it show a heater core delete hose from the
intake manifold elbow to the water pump.

Rootes does list a heater core delete in the Parts List but this is not what
is described.

Does anyone have a picture of an original Rootes heater core delete option?

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of J D Johnson
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2011 5:31 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK1a Originality question


Maybe an actual image of the 4bbl installation will answer the question....
Page 102 Chittenden's Performance Tuning:
http://frkbmq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pFgBLSPMhtfGKjk5Fe2pFcVZhnnZwnZ2Vf-7L8
C9GUl_FZO6saXey7R4Ozjb1rzqsT0NK3TBSNSFxI_3EXgyeiiDXjzttDYAY/chittenden-pg102
.jpg?psid=1

JD

At 12:29 PM 3/11/2011, Terry wrote:
>I would think that the thermostat housing would have been the engine
>color. When the shelby engines were made, they took the 289 (271hp)
>motors and put the cobra intake on them, the thermostat housing was
>left the engine color. I would assume the same would have been for the
Tiger.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3500 - Release Date: 03/11/11
08:17:00

From PhastPhill at aol.com  Sat Mar 12 17:42:13 2011
From: PhastPhill at aol.com (PhastPhill at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 19:42:13 EST
Subject: [Tigers] seal number
Message-ID: <a4e4.7da4b21c.3aad6ce5@aol.com>

getting to last winters project finally, a stroke got in the way. Got  the 
posi from Barry. got new pinion bearing and seal from our parts jobber , and 
 new wheel bearings , but our jobber is having probs with the rear seals. 
he  can't seem to use the numbers on the seals, or he ones from my cat shop 
notes or  the ones I serched on the tigers site, does anyone ha ve some 
current ones  please? JUst a pain to order more stuff shipped across the border, 
and try to  speed things up....sorry for the typing but my brain is still a 
bit  wonky....thanks

From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Sun Mar 13 13:27:37 2011
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2011 16:27:37 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Seat Cardboard
Message-ID: <4D7D28B9.4030703@roadrunner.com>

A week or so ago, I asked if anyone had a source or a replacement for 
the cardboard used in the Tiger seats and, as usual, received a number 
of helpful replies.  Thanks to all for their suggestions.  The easiest 
seemed to be poster board, but I wanted something that might be a little 
more weather resistant.  Since I live in an area where there are a lot 
of boats, I thought one of the local shops that does upholstery for such 
might have some ideas, but that did not pan out.  I then spent a while 
walking around in the local Lowe's and found a couple of possibilities.  
Rande had suggested looking for some plastic sheets and I found a 
product called FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) which is .09 inch 
thick and comes in 4 x 8 sheets.  It's very flexible and even comes in 
two colors, white and beige.  I think it would work well.  However, it 
dawned on me as I wandered around that vinyl flooring would also make a 
good choice.  I looked at several samples in Lowe's and found that it 
comes in many thicknesses and is also pretty flexible.  I then 
remembered some leftover vinyl flooring I had found stashed away in my 
attic that was the previous owners' idea of appropriate floor covering 
for an 1820 New England cape circa 1970, but I just couldn't bring 
myself to use it, and took it to the transfer station instead, although 
it pained my Yankee sensibilities.  I think decorating trends from the 
1970's are best destroyed and forgotten wherever they may be found.  
Instead, I bought a remnant from a local flooring shop.  It takes about 
16 square feet.  I had saved the original cardboard, so I used them for 
templates and, in short order, had a new set of backings for my seats.  
The original cardboard has survived almost 45 years so I think the 
replacements will probably outlast the originals and most certainly the 
original owner.  My seats should be ready to go back in shortly.

Cheers,

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
TAC 0864

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Sun Mar 13 14:03:03 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2011 14:03:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Dale A. AMC 5 speed
In-Reply-To: <4D7D28B9.4030703@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <896498.68855.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I would like to communicate with anyone who has Dales AMC 5 speed conversion. Particularly those who cut holes for access to the fill plug and other holes they may have made. You can contact me off list at 
achd73 at yahoo.com Thanks in advance,
TonytheTiger

From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net  Sun Mar 13 14:09:34 2011
From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (Clyde McLaughlin)
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2011 17:09:34 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 115
References: <mailman.23.1300042810.10554.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000901cbe1c2$f4cb99c0$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>

I just got these seals and brgs from NAPA  19807 outer seal,  13175 inner 
seal,  br14130, br14276 outer brg and race,  Clyde
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tigers-request at autox.team.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 3:00 PM
Subject: Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 115


> Send Tigers mailing list submissions to
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> tigers-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> tigers-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Tigers digest..."
>
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. seal number (PhastPhill at aol.com)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 19:42:13 EST
> From: PhastPhill at aol.com
> Subject: [Tigers] seal number
> To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
> Message-ID: <a4e4.7da4b21c.3aad6ce5 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> getting to last winters project finally, a stroke got in the way. Got  the
> posi from Barry. got new pinion bearing and seal from our parts jobber , 
> and
> new wheel bearings , but our jobber is having probs with the rear seals.
> he  can't seem to use the numbers on the seals, or he ones from my cat 
> shop
> notes or  the ones I serched on the tigers site, does anyone ha ve some
> current ones  please? JUst a pain to order more stuff shipped across the 
> border,
> and try to  speed things up....sorry for the typing but my brain is still 
> a
> bit  wonky....thanks
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers mailing list
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
>
>
> End of Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 115
> ************************************** 

From AAAGLASSS at aol.com  Sun Mar 13 16:00:19 2011
From: AAAGLASSS at aol.com (AAAGLASSS at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2011 19:00:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] BON
Message-ID: <12ef3.75a6bd40.3aaea683@aol.com>

Was 3 now it's 2. Epay#220753401943

From un-cole-a at juno.com  Mon Mar 14 11:27:39 2011
From: un-cole-a at juno.com (un-cole-a at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 18:27:39 GMT
Subject: [Tigers] carb & Intake
Message-ID: <20110314.142739.15734.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com>

   Looked at the engine yesterday to take inventory and to figure out a
rebuild, a few questions came up.
Carb is Motorcraft with tag as follows:
      4D
   D  EC
  A8 F13
Would this be a replacement for the Autolite that came with the original
engine?
Is this an Autolite 2100 but under the Motorcraft name??

Intake:
C4OE
Not sure if this is original, any thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the help

Tim
B9470149


____________________________________________________________
$65/Hr Job - 25 Openings
Part-Time job ($20-$65/hr). Requirements: Home Internet Access
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d7e5e35126e613120bst02vuc

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Mon Mar 14 13:05:04 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 16:05:04 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] carb & Intake
In-Reply-To: <20110314.142739.15734.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <8E1420D926774B0BB2D7DE9FA2870758@ronpc1>

Tim
	 I should be able to tell you the correct combination of parts on an
original Tiger engine by it's engine number.

The carb should be an Autolite ID# C4DF and most likely the C4DF-N carb.
The Motorcraft carb is a replacement and should be similar to the 2100.
The tag numbers don't mean anything to me at the moment but it might be the
way Motorcraft listed them.  I believe there still should be an ID number on
the carb base plate just in front of the throttle linkage.

The C4OE intake should be correct.

Questions like these are where my Original Tiger Engine Study helps answer
but there are still many gaps in my study.

	Tim or anyone else if you would like to participate with my Original
Engine Study contact me off list and I will send you my information sheet to
be fill out.  The majority of the information I'm studying is readily
accessible and even easier to locate if the engine is out.  I will also
gladly help anyone with Ford part numbers and tag decodes.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of un-cole-a at juno.com
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2011 2:28 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] carb & Intake


   Looked at the engine yesterday to take inventory and to figure out a
rebuild, a few questions came up. Carb is Motorcraft with tag as follows:
      4D
   D  EC
  A8 F13
Would this be a replacement for the Autolite that came with the original
engine? Is this an Autolite 2100 but under the Motorcraft name??

Intake:
C4OE
Not sure if this is original, any thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the help

Tim
B9470149


____________________________________________________________
$65/Hr Job - 25 Openings
Part-Time job ($20-$65/hr). Requirements: Home Internet Access
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d7e5e35126e613120bst02vuc
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3500 - Release Date: 03/14/11
07:34:00

From gabbardalex at att.net  Tue Mar 15 10:44:44 2011
From: gabbardalex at att.net (Gabbard Gabbard)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 10:44:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers]  Mk II front caliper pads
In-Reply-To: <8E1420D926774B0BB2D7DE9FA2870758@ronpc1>
References: <8E1420D926774B0BB2D7DE9FA2870758@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <324185.81147.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello All,
Purchase of available 1967 Tiger front brake pads for my Mk II
results in a 
non-fit. Mk II calipers are heftier and a different design than
Mk I/IA but have 
the same piston diameter accuating differently shaped pads.
Any recommendations 
for pads by part numbers and manufacturer?
Thanks,
Alex
Gabbard
B382100328

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Mar 15 12:00:02 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 15:00:02 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Mk II front caliper pads
In-Reply-To: <324185.81147.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <21CBBF2F4403471FBFA909653FE8B321@ronpc1>

Alex
    The Sunbeam parts vendors only list 1 pad for all Tigers I & II.

I have had problems with the steel plate of the pads needing the edges filed
some to make clearance in the caliper.

I'm not familiar with the MK II having a different caliper.

Series I & II Alpine has a different pad and looks different in the Parts
List.   Any chance you might have a pair of Series I or II calipers?

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: Gabbard Gabbard [mailto:gabbardalex at att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2011 1:45 PM
To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; un-cole-a at juno.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Mk II front caliper pads


Hello All,
Purchase of available 1967 Tiger front brake pads for my Mk II results in a
non-fit. Mk II calipers are heftier and a different design than Mk I/IA but
have the same piston diameter accuating differently shaped pads. Any
recommendations for pads by part numbers and manufacturer?
Thanks,
Alex Gabbard
B382100328





No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 03/15/11
07:34:00

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Tue Mar 15 13:15:09 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 15:15:09 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Balancer bolt torque?
In-Reply-To: <21CBBF2F4403471FBFA909653FE8B321@ronpc1>
References: <324185.81147.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<21CBBF2F4403471FBFA909653FE8B321@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <000301cbe34d$af55bdd0$0e013970$@rr.com>

Hello all.

Just installed the balancer on the 347. Wife does not know I used the oven
;>)

The instructions for the SFI balancer state 90 ft/lbs.  ARP stated 220
ft/lbs for the bolt on their web site.  Big difference...

So, what is the recommended torque for the HB bolt?

Thanks!

Duke
B382002037

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Tue Mar 15 14:20:41 2011
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 16:20:41 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Balancer bolt torque?
In-Reply-To: <000301cbe34d$af55bdd0$0e013970$@rr.com>
References: <324185.81147.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<21CBBF2F4403471FBFA909653FE8B321@ronpc1>
	<000301cbe34d$af55bdd0$0e013970$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2EB3461@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

I think that the 220 ft-lb may apply for a 200,000 psi bolt being threaded
into a nut that is made from similar material, and where the load is being
spread over a suitably large area. Since it's going into nodular iron or cast
steel, and it's clamping something that may not be expecting to be crushed as
hard as applying 220 ft-lbs would, you're probably better off to use the
Ford-recommended 70-90 ft-lbs.

However, you should make sure that your torque wrench is reasonably accurate,
and that you use an appropriate fastener lube, to make sure that the 90 ft-lbs
isn't either 60 or 120.

Cheers,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Samouce's
> Sent: March 15, 2011 2:15 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Balancer bolt torque?
>
> Hello all.
>
> Just installed the balancer on the 347. Wife does not know I used the
> oven
> ;>)
>
> The instructions for the SFI balancer state 90 ft/lbs.  ARP stated 220
> ft/lbs for the bolt on their web site.  Big difference...
>
> So, what is the recommended torque for the HB bolt?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Tue Mar 15 14:55:11 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 17:55:11 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Balancer bolt torque?
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2EB3461@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <324185.81147.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<21CBBF2F4403471FBFA909653FE8B321@ronpc1>
	<000301cbe34d$af55bdd0$0e013970$@rr.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2EB3461@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <0BFDE840-82E5-448C-9842-DBE6FDB07DB7@gmail.com>

I used 90.  and it's still on there :)

On Mar 15, 2011, at 17:20, "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com> wrote:

> I think that the 220 ft-lb may apply for a 200,000 psi bolt being threaded
> into a nut that is made from similar material, and where the load is being
> spread over a suitably large area. Since it's going into nodular iron or
cast
> steel, and it's clamping something that may not be expecting to be crushed
as
> hard as applying 220 ft-lbs would, you're probably better off to use the
> Ford-recommended 70-90 ft-lbs.
>
> However, you should make sure that your torque wrench is reasonably
accurate,
> and that you use an appropriate fastener lube, to make sure that the 90
ft-lbs
> isn't either 60 or 120.
>
> Cheers,
> Theo
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
>> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Samouce's
>> Sent: March 15, 2011 2:15 PM
>> To: tigers at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Tigers] Balancer bolt torque?
>>
>> Hello all.
>>
>> Just installed the balancer on the 347. Wife does not know I used the
>> oven
>> ;>)
>>
>> The instructions for the SFI balancer state 90 ft/lbs.  ARP stated 220
>> ft/lbs for the bolt on their web site.  Big difference...
>>
>> So, what is the recommended torque for the HB bolt?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Duke
>> B382002037
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>>
>
>
> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
sole
> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
please
> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail
or
> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
> please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>
> Thank you for your cooperation.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Tue Mar 15 15:18:48 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 17:18:48 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Balancer bolt torque?
In-Reply-To: <0BFDE840-82E5-448C-9842-DBE6FDB07DB7@gmail.com>
References: <324185.81147.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<21CBBF2F4403471FBFA909653FE8B321@ronpc1>
	<000301cbe34d$af55bdd0$0e013970$@rr.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2EB3461@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<0BFDE840-82E5-448C-9842-DBE6FDB07DB7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbe35e$f564b540$e02e1fc0$@rr.com>

Thanks guys!

90 lbs it is!  I used the ARP moly lube on the bolt and lots of grease on
the hub to crank connection.  The balancer was heated to 250 degrees and
pressed on the crank as I tightened the bolt.  It's not going anywhere.

My torque wrench was recalibrated about two years ago.  I have the hydraulic
roller lifters submerged in oil overnight.  The heads will go on tomorrow.

Duke
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: Owain Lloyd [mailto:owain.lloyd at gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2011 4:55 PM
To: Smit, Theo
Cc: Samouce's; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Balancer bolt torque?

I used 90.  and it's still on there :)

On Mar 15, 2011, at 17:20, "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com> wrote:

> I think that the 220 ft-lb may apply for a 200,000 psi bolt being threaded
> into a nut that is made from similar material, and where the load is being
> spread over a suitably large area. Since it's going into nodular iron or
cast
> steel, and it's clamping something that may not be expecting to be crushed
as
> hard as applying 220 ft-lbs would, you're probably better off to use the
> Ford-recommended 70-90 ft-lbs.
> 
> However, you should make sure that your torque wrench is reasonably
accurate,
> and that you use an appropriate fastener lube, to make sure that the 90
ft-lbs
> isn't either 60 or 120.
> 
> Cheers,
> Theo
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
>> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Samouce's
>> Sent: March 15, 2011 2:15 PM
>> To: tigers at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Tigers] Balancer bolt torque?
>> 
>> Hello all.
>> 
>> Just installed the balancer on the 347. Wife does not know I used the
>> oven
>> ;>)
>> 
>> The instructions for the SFI balancer state 90 ft/lbs.  ARP stated 220
>> ft/lbs for the bolt on their web site.  Big difference...
>> 
>> So, what is the recommended torque for the HB bolt?
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Duke
>> B382002037
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>> 
> 
> 
> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
sole
> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
please
> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail
or
> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
> please contact the sender and delete all copies.
> 
> Thank you for your cooperation.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From AAAGLASSS at aol.com  Tue Mar 15 17:34:25 2011
From: AAAGLASSS at aol.com (AAAGLASSS at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 20:34:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] CLUTCH
Message-ID: <2bcb9.e3c618e.3ab15f90@aol.com>

Need a pressure plate for a 260. Mild cam and 4 barrel. Recommendations  
listers. SS has a kit but I don't need it all. Thanks  Lee

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Tue Mar 15 17:38:43 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 19:38:43 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] CLUTCH
In-Reply-To: <2bcb9.e3c618e.3ab15f90@aol.com>
References: <2bcb9.e3c618e.3ab15f90@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbe372$81340cc0$839c2640$@rr.com>

Don't even think about not replacing the friction disk unless it is new.  Go
with Centerforce.

Duke
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of AAAGLASSS at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2011 7:34 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] CLUTCH

Need a pressure plate for a 260. Mild cam and 4 barrel. Recommendations  
listers. SS has a kit but I don't need it all. Thanks  Lee
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From shutchin at netjets.com  Tue Mar 15 17:45:24 2011
From: shutchin at netjets.com (Scott Hutchinson)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 20:45:24 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] CLUTCH
Message-ID: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D40D4EA80F@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com>

Also very happy with the Centerforce. 


Scott Hutchinson
Pilot, NetJets Aviation 

Mobile 843.290.2805

*** *******
This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error,  please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message.

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Tue Mar 15 19:09:33 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 22:09:33 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] CLUTCH
In-Reply-To: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D40D4EA80F@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com>
References: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D40D4EA80F@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimzFJ8Qaq_u=19e+3RJGBnCfNev3RuF5zvCWJii@mail.gmail.com>

centreforce again!
holds well, lasts well and feels very nice.  also very affordable.
i'm putting another one in now.   my original 10" centreforce II gave up
after 2 years high power abuse.   putting in a 10.5" centreforce dual
friction now.

On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 8:45 PM, Scott Hutchinson <shutchin at netjets.com>wrote:

> Also very happy with the Centerforce.
>
>
> Scott Hutchinson
> Pilot, NetJets Aviation
>
> Mobile 843.290.2805
>
> *** *******
> This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged.
> Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee),
> you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information
> contained in the message. If you have received the message in error,  please
> advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Wed Mar 16 13:38:41 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:38:41 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Pushrods too short.
In-Reply-To: <a4e4.7da4b21c.3aad6ce5@aol.com>
References: <a4e4.7da4b21c.3aad6ce5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301cbe41a$237ae3d0$6a70ab70$@rr.com>

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/004-13.jpg

Hello all,

Just got the heads on and did the pushrod length test.  They are too short.
Does anyone have an adjustable pushrod they could send me so I can get the
proper length set ordered?

Thanks!

Duke
B382002037

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Wed Mar 16 17:00:25 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 11:00:25 +1100
Subject: [Tigers] LAT 18 "rally jacket" project
Message-ID: <AANLkTim+rGUfryPxkMPOpkd5hX1HOvOm8=BwQGLVXAws@mail.gmail.com>

A couple of years back i managed to acquire an original LAT 18 "rally
jacket". The ones offered by dealers as part of the LAT options. Despite it
being adult Medium size it was to small for me (i gather americans must have
got bigger in the last 45 years?) I could fit into it but it was like a
T-shirt. The jacket also has 2 owner placed patches (1 US navy and another
some dog owners club) which i have kept on it but may now remove.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2020686190054462410gmlIJw

Anyway I started doing some research into the jackets. The jackets were made
in California by a company that did many sporting teams/college/club jackets
and the LAT jacket was a variation on that. They used a poplin fabric (its
like a cotton canvas) and talon zips. they also had 2 stripes down the front
in a quite textured vertical grain ribbon in black and orange.

Not wanting to cut up the original jacket to get a pattern i started
searching out a larger jacket by the same manufacturer. After about 3 months
i picked one up in the internet in japan.. it was a medium as well but at
least i could pull it part to have a pattern made for a larger size.

After mucking around trying to get a close match on the fabric and source
talon brand zips I found materials that were close enough to what i needed.

A tailor was finally convinced to grade the pattern and make a reproduction
of the jacket. They were not happy about the "old style" detilaing and the
fact "nobody makes the jackets like that anymore" and "why not tailor it"..
but i wanted it as close as possible to the correct item..

so here we are almost 2.5 years later.. I still need to make the front LAT
patch but its almost complete!
original jacket:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2041234570054462410zrODZS
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2642226450054462410iwNTmN
repro jacket:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2708994850054462410WzPJbB
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2898970540054462410WDJyTa
*http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2566074880054462410MLCRXw*
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2639799510054462410PlBZIL



-- 
Regards

Michael King

From wseay at embarqmail.com  Wed Mar 16 17:25:46 2011
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 20:25:46 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] LAT 18 "rally jacket" project
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim+rGUfryPxkMPOpkd5hX1HOvOm8=BwQGLVXAws@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTim+rGUfryPxkMPOpkd5hX1HOvOm8=BwQGLVXAws@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbe439$de01cd80$9a056880$@com>

Michael,

Rick at SS has a repro of the front patch.

-Will 382001570

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael king
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 8:00 PM
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
Subject: [Tigers] LAT 18 "rally jacket" project

A couple of years back i managed to acquire an original LAT 18 "rally
jacket". The ones offered by dealers as part of the LAT options. Despite it
being adult Medium size it was to small for me (i gather americans must have
got bigger in the last 45 years?) I could fit into it but it was like a
T-shirt. The jacket also has 2 owner placed patches (1 US navy and another
some dog owners club) which i have kept on it but may now remove.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2020686190054462410gmlIJw

Anyway I started doing some research into the jackets. The jackets were made
in California by a company that did many sporting teams/college/club jackets
and the LAT jacket was a variation on that. They used a poplin fabric (its
like a cotton canvas) and talon zips. they also had 2 stripes down the front
in a quite textured vertical grain ribbon in black and orange.

Not wanting to cut up the original jacket to get a pattern i started
searching out a larger jacket by the same manufacturer. After about 3 months
i picked one up in the internet in japan.. it was a medium as well but at
least i could pull it part to have a pattern made for a larger size.

After mucking around trying to get a close match on the fabric and source
talon brand zips I found materials that were close enough to what i needed.

A tailor was finally convinced to grade the pattern and make a reproduction
of the jacket. They were not happy about the "old style" detilaing and the
fact "nobody makes the jackets like that anymore" and "why not tailor it"..
but i wanted it as close as possible to the correct item..

so here we are almost 2.5 years later.. I still need to make the front LAT
patch but its almost complete!
original jacket:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2041234570054462410zrODZS
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2642226450054462410iwNTmN
repro jacket:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2708994850054462410WzPJbB
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2898970540054462410WDJyTa
*http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2566074880054462410MLCRXw*
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2639799510054462410PlBZIL



-- 
Regards

Michael King

From c_mottram at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 16 18:57:16 2011
From: c_mottram at yahoo.com (Chris Mottram)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 18:57:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Generator replacement
Message-ID: <864765.87382.qm@web38308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Is the Mk1a generator the same as any US domestic car? (mustang?) Mine is shot
and I need to get a new one. 

Thanks, 
Chris
 
View this at your own risk
> http://www.usdebtclock.org/

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Wed Mar 16 20:01:49 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 22:01:49 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Head gasket has me scrathin my head.
In-Reply-To: <000001cbe439$de01cd80$9a056880$@com>
References: <AANLkTim+rGUfryPxkMPOpkd5hX1HOvOm8=BwQGLVXAws@mail.gmail.com>
	<000001cbe439$de01cd80$9a056880$@com>
Message-ID: <000101cbe44f$a8f1a870$fad4f950$@rr.com>

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-15.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-23.jpg


So I know that Fel-Pro knows what they are doing with gaskets but I am a
little concerned.

Look at pic one and the water passages at the front of cylinder #5.  Now
look at pic two with the gasket on, the passages are completely blocked
except for a small hole.  The passages at the rear of the block are open.
The smaller passages between each cylinder also have small holes.  This is
mirrored on the other side. Is this OK, am I being paranoid?

The head manufacturer (AFR) recommend these gaskets - "Use Fel-Pro #1011-1
for years 1962 -1995".

Someone make me feel better about this.

Duke
B382002037

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 16 20:32:19 2011
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 23:32:19 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Head gasket has me scrathin my head.
In-Reply-To: <000101cbe44f$a8f1a870$fad4f950$@rr.com>
References: <AANLkTim+rGUfryPxkMPOpkd5hX1HOvOm8=BwQGLVXAws@mail.gmail.com>
	<000001cbe439$de01cd80$9a056880$@com>
	<000101cbe44f$a8f1a870$fad4f950$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim=bbZcVJMAzWD5ahMR6SxcirLq0b_MqQ1SsgqD@mail.gmail.com>

Duke,

Your picture shows the gasket installed properly. See "How To Rebuild the
Small Block Ford" by George Reid - I think it's available online - p: 115.
"... Front means Front with small block Ford gaskets." (the label on the
gasket... the gasket sticks out at the bottom front of the head...), "The
coolant passages MUST (caps mine) be positioned at the rear of the block for
proper coolant flow."

If you're using aftermarket heads (mine are Edelbrock) on an early 289 (and
probably 260) you may have to drill a small "escape" hole to the water
jacket on #1 & #5 cylinders. Make sure you read the install instructions
carefully.

Tom

' 67 Mark 2

On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 11:01 PM, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-15.jpg
>
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-23.jpg
>
>
> So I know that Fel-Pro knows what they are doing with gaskets but I am a
> little concerned.
>
> Look at pic one and the water passages at the front of cylinder #5.  Now
> look at pic two with the gasket on, the passages are completely blocked
> except for a small hole.  The passages at the rear of the block are open.
> The smaller passages between each cylinder also have small holes.  This is
> mirrored on the other side. Is this OK, am I being paranoid?
>
> The head manufacturer (AFR) recommend these gaskets - "Use Fel-Pro #1011-1
> for years 1962 -1995".
>
> Someone make me feel better about this.
>
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Wed Mar 16 20:37:55 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 22:37:55 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Head gasket has me scrathin my head.
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim=bbZcVJMAzWD5ahMR6SxcirLq0b_MqQ1SsgqD@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTim+rGUfryPxkMPOpkd5hX1HOvOm8=BwQGLVXAws@mail.gmail.com>
	<000001cbe439$de01cd80$9a056880$@com>
	<000101cbe44f$a8f1a870$fad4f950$@rr.com>
	<AANLkTim=bbZcVJMAzWD5ahMR6SxcirLq0b_MqQ1SsgqD@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000301cbe454$b3d35b30$1b7a1190$@rr.com>

Thanks Tom,

 

I can go to bed and sleep now.

 

Duke

 

From: Tom Parker [mailto:tkparker1941 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 10:32 PM
To: Samouce's
Cc: Tiger Talk List Tiger
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Head gasket has me scrathin my head.

 

Duke,

Your picture shows the gasket installed properly. See "How To Rebuild the
Small Block Ford" by George Reid - I think it's available online - p: 115.
"... Front means Front with small block Ford gaskets." (the label on the
gasket... the gasket sticks out at the bottom front of the head...), "The
coolant passages MUST (caps mine) be positioned at the rear of the block for
proper coolant flow."

If you're using aftermarket heads (mine are Edelbrock) on an early 289 (and
probably 260) you may have to drill a small "escape" hole to the water
jacket on #1 & #5 cylinders. Make sure you read the install instructions
carefully.

Tom

' 67 Mark 2

On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 11:01 PM, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-15.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-23.jpg


So I know that Fel-Pro knows what they are doing with gaskets but I am a
little concerned.

Look at pic one and the water passages at the front of cylinder #5.  Now
look at pic two with the gasket on, the passages are completely blocked
except for a small hole.  The passages at the rear of the block are open.
The smaller passages between each cylinder also have small holes.  This is
mirrored on the other side. Is this OK, am I being paranoid?

The head manufacturer (AFR) recommend these gaskets - "Use Fel-Pro #1011-1
for years 1962 -1995".

Someone make me feel better about this.

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Wed Mar 16 21:03:16 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 00:03:16 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Generator replacement
In-Reply-To: <864765.87382.qm@web38308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <138E506C4C22443A8DFF429B70D2A73D@ronpc1>

Chris
	The generator is a Ford part - C1TZ-1002-A
It is basically the same as any US Ford part.

I would have the original rebuilt.   The last time I had this done it cost
around $75 which included turning the armature.  I have now converted to an
alternator.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Mottram
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 9:57 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Generator replacement


Is the Mk1a generator the same as any US domestic car? (mustang?) Mine is
shot and I need to get a new one. 

Thanks, 
Chris
 
View this at your own risk
> http://www.usdebtclock.org/
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3510 - Release Date: 03/16/11
07:34:00

From bikengreg at hughes.net  Wed Mar 16 21:21:45 2011
From: bikengreg at hughes.net (Greg Christensen)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 23:21:45 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Generator replacement
References: <138E506C4C22443A8DFF429B70D2A73D@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <8774AC7950DD42C7B838FDEA7548DB2F@MiniDell>

Chris,

   If you are interested in converting to a one wire alternator, PowerGen
makes an alternator
that mimics the look of an early Ford generator. I did have to swap the pully
to slow the poor thing
down due to my 7200 rpm redline. The down side is that you no longer have a
charge light. I instead
installed the CAT club 50 amp Jaeger gauge.

       Enjoy the ride,
               Greg Christensen  MK1a
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Ron Fraser
  To: 'Chris Mottram' ; tigers at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 11:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator replacement


  Chris
  The generator is a Ford part - C1TZ-1002-A
  It is basically the same as any US Ford part.

  I would have the original rebuilt.   The last time I had this done it cost
  around $75 which included turning the armature.  I have now converted to an
  alternator.

  Ron Fraser

  -----Original Message-----
  From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
  On Behalf Of Chris Mottram
  Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 9:57 PM
  To: tigers at autox.team.net
  Subject: [Tigers] Generator replacement


  Is the Mk1a generator the same as any US domestic car? (mustang?) Mine is
  shot and I need to get a new one.

  Thanks,
  Chris

  View this at your own risk
  > http://www.usdebtclock.org/
  _______________________________________________
  Tigers at autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3510 - Release Date: 03/16/11
  07:34:00
  _______________________________________________
  Tigers at autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bikengreg at hughes.net

From garywinblad at comcast.net  Wed Mar 16 21:28:19 2011
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary Winblad)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 04:28:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Generator replacement
In-Reply-To: <138E506C4C22443A8DFF429B70D2A73D@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <2027305524.2605474.1300336099991.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Though it is a Ford part, the front pulley is different from most other
applications.  It is a little deeper and the "standard" replacement type
will cause your belt to be out of alignment.
I would DEFINITELY get your original rebuilt.
Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
To: 'Chris Mottram' <c_mottram at yahoo.com>, tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 04:03:16 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator replacement

Chris
    The generator is a Ford part - C1TZ-1002-A
It is basically the same as any US Ford part.

I would have the original rebuilt.   The last time I had this done it cost
around $75 which included turning the armature.  I have now converted to an
alternator.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Mottram
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 9:57 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Generator replacement


Is the Mk1a generator the same as any US domestic car? (mustang?) Mine is
shot and I need to get a new one. 

Thanks, 
Chris
 
View this at your own risk
> http://www.usdebtclock.org/
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3510 - Release Date: 03/16/11
07:34:00
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net

From Greg.Koss at TRW.COM  Thu Mar 17 06:21:55 2011
From: Greg.Koss at TRW.COM (Greg Koss)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 09:21:55 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] LAT 18 "rally jacket" project
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim+rGUfryPxkMPOpkd5hX1HOvOm8=BwQGLVXAws@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTim+rGUfryPxkMPOpkd5hX1HOvOm8=BwQGLVXAws@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4D81D2B3.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM>

So how much is an XL going to cost me?

>>> michael king <michael.s.king at gmail.com> 3/16/2011 8:00 PM >>>
A couple of years back i managed to acquire an original LAT 18 "rally
jacket". The ones offered by dealers as part of the LAT options. Despite it
being adult Medium size it was to small for me (i gather americans must have
got bigger in the last 45 years?) I could fit into it but it was like a
T-shirt. The jacket also has 2 owner placed patches (1 US navy and another
some dog owners club) which i have kept on it but may now remove.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2020686190054462410gmlIJw

Anyway I started doing some research into the jackets. The jackets were made
in California by a company that did many sporting teams/college/club jackets
and the LAT jacket was a variation on that. They used a poplin fabric (its
like a cotton canvas) and talon zips. they also had 2 stripes down the front
in a quite textured vertical grain ribbon in black and orange.

Not wanting to cut up the original jacket to get a pattern i started
searching out a larger jacket by the same manufacturer. After about 3 months
i picked one up in the internet in japan.. it was a medium as well but at
least i could pull it part to have a pattern made for a larger size.

After mucking around trying to get a close match on the fabric and source
talon brand zips I found materials that were close enough to what i needed.

A tailor was finally convinced to grade the pattern and make a reproduction
of the jacket. They were not happy about the "old style" detilaing and the
fact "nobody makes the jackets like that anymore" and "why not tailor it"..
but i wanted it as close as possible to the correct item..

so here we are almost 2.5 years later.. I still need to make the front LAT
patch but its almost complete!
original jacket:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2041234570054462410zrODZS
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2642226450054462410iwNTmN
repro jacket:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2708994850054462410WzPJbB
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2898970540054462410WDJyTa
*http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2566074880054462410MLCRXw*
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2639799510054462410PlBZIL



--
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________

From tym2 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 17 06:58:56 2011
From: tym2 at comcast.net (tym2 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 13:58:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] LAT 18 "rally jacket" project
In-Reply-To: <4D81D2B3.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM>
Message-ID: <1927004888.2644272.1300370336420.JavaMail.root@sz0149a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Very cool. When you're ready, I want one! 


Tym McDowell 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Koss" <Greg.Koss at TRW.COM> 
To: "Tiger Talk List Tiger" <tigers at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2011 9:21:55 AM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] LAT 18 "rally jacket" project 

So how much is an XL going to cost me? 

>>> michael king <michael.s.king at gmail.com> 3/16/2011 8:00 PM >>> 
A couple of years back i managed to acquire an original LAT 18 "rally 
jacket". The ones offered by dealers as part of the LAT options. Despite it 
being adult Medium size it was to small for me (i gather americans must have 
got bigger in the last 45 years?) I could fit into it but it was like a 
T-shirt. The jacket also has 2 owner placed patches (1 US navy and another 
some dog owners club) which i have kept on it but may now remove. 

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2020686190054462410gmlIJw 

Anyway I started doing some research into the jackets. The jackets were made 
in California by a company that did many sporting teams/college/club jackets 
and the LAT jacket was a variation on that. They used a poplin fabric (its 
like a cotton canvas) and talon zips. they also had 2 stripes down the front 
in a quite textured vertical grain ribbon in black and orange. 

Not wanting to cut up the original jacket to get a pattern i started 
searching out a larger jacket by the same manufacturer. After about 3 months 
i picked one up in the internet in japan.. it was a medium as well but at 
least i could pull it part to have a pattern made for a larger size. 

After mucking around trying to get a close match on the fabric and source 
talon brand zips I found materials that were close enough to what i needed. 

A tailor was finally convinced to grade the pattern and make a reproduction 
of the jacket. They were not happy about the "old style" detilaing and the 
fact "nobody makes the jackets like that anymore" and "why not tailor it".. 
but i wanted it as close as possible to the correct item.. 

so here we are almost 2.5 years later.. I still need to make the front LAT 
patch but its almost complete! 
original jacket: 
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2041234570054462410zrODZS 
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2642226450054462410iwNTmN 
repro jacket: 
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2708994850054462410WzPJbB 
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2898970540054462410WDJyTa 
*http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2566074880054462410MLCRXw* 
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2639799510054462410PlBZIL 



-- 
Regards 

Michael King 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________ 
Tigers at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tym2 at comcast.net 

From spmdr at juno.com  Thu Mar 17 08:13:17 2011
From: spmdr at juno.com (spmdr at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 08:13:17 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Generator replacement
Message-ID: <20110317.081317.2716.0.spmdr@juno.com>

Not that it will do you much good, 

but a lot of the parts lists had the part number wrong on the Generator.

It is a 10000 series, not 1000 series.

Also, the pulley is a bit longer than is common.

The dime test will tell you, 

can you get almost all of a dime between the rear of the pulley groove
and the fan?

So IF you have the correct pulley, DON'T give it away to a rebuilder as a
core.

DW
____________________________________________________________
$65/Hr Job - 25 Openings
Part-Time job ($20-$65/hr). Requirements: Home Internet Access
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d8225699f843250aem07vuc

From awtiger at cox.net  Thu Mar 17 08:45:42 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 11:45:42 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] LAT 18 "rally jacket" project
In-Reply-To: <1927004888.2644272.1300370336420.JavaMail.root@sz0149a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20110317114542.W6GTK.88065.imail@eastrmwml44>

Michael:

If you're gauging interest in these jackets from the members of this list, please count me in on one.  I've always liked them, whether they're considered to be in style or not.  Besides that, if you asked my wife, she would say that "style" is not one of my strong suits anyway...

Take care and please keep us all posted,
Andy Walker (still wearing my Motorcraft "Members Only" jacket on a daily basis...)
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Mar 17 09:55:21 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 12:55:21 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Generator replacement
In-Reply-To: <20110317.081317.2716.0.spmdr@juno.com>
Message-ID: <F654A40B59A44A9CB7753BD9F9714FF0@ronpc1>

DW
	Good catch; the generator part # in the Parts List is C1TZ-10002-A.
I missed a 0 the first time I sent the part number.

As always I recommend to never throw away or exchange an original Tiger
part.  Those parts are your only clue to what should be there.   I know a
number of owners who exchanged parts only to have problems installing the
new part and the original part is gone; no going back.

If you can not find someone to rebuild your generator and you want to try it
yourself; macsautoparts.com does list generator rebuild kits; other may list
them too.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of spmdr at juno.com
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2011 11:13 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Generator replacement


Not that it will do you much good,

but a lot of the parts lists had the part number wrong on the Generator.

It is a 10000 series, not 1000 series.

Also, the pulley is a bit longer than is common.

The dime test will tell you,

can you get almost all of a dime between the rear of the pulley groove and
the fan?

So IF you have the correct pulley, DON'T give it away to a rebuilder as a
core.

DW
____________________________________________________________
$65/Hr Job - 25 Openings
Part-Time job ($20-$65/hr). Requirements: Home Internet Access
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d8225699f843250aem07vuc
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3510 - Release Date: 03/16/11
07:34:00

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Thu Mar 17 16:22:50 2011
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 16:22:50 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] LAT 18 Rally Jacket
Message-ID: <4D8297CA.8030601@socal.rr.com>

The original LAT catalog, illustrated, is shown on "*/TigersUnited.com/* 
<http://www.tigersunited.com> "


The specifics on LAT 18 (Sunbeam Tiger Rally Jacket),and other apparel 
is on:

http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/parts_service/pp-lat17.asp

and almost all LAT Options are on:

http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/parts_service/lat.asp

by LAT number, Description, and /detailed/ info inRED letters.

Enjoy St. Patrick's Day celebration with corned beef and cabbage.  
Ireland did NOT actually eat meat, as they could not afford it, 
reserving the stock for milk.  Only visitors (English, etc.) wanted it.  
(details if asked).

The Irish first began eating corned beef when the immigrants located in 
NY lived mostly near the Jewish immigrants, and bought it at the butcher's.

  Anyways, that's why everyone is "Irish" for one day!

"Erin Go Bragh

http://media.photobucket.com/image/erin%20go%20bragh/cuttlefish711/erin-go-bragh.png?o=21

Steve O'Laifman

-- 



/Steve Laifman/

/Editor - /*/TigersUnited.com/* <http://www.tigersunited.com>

From Rollright at aol.com  Fri Mar 18 06:47:42 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 09:47:42 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter Cobra tach
Message-ID: <498de.4bf9a990.3ab4bc7e@aol.com>

Hello,
 
Just received my Auto Meter Cobra tach yesterday. Upon inspection, I  
noticed that the inside of the casing is white. Seems I remember Duke saying  
that he painted his blue like the stock one.
 
Anybody know what "color" and type pint I should use to duplicate the look  
of the old tach?  Already have Paul Bruhan's redone faceplate.
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Fri Mar 18 09:08:30 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 11:08:30 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter Cobra tach
In-Reply-To: <498de.4bf9a990.3ab4bc7e@aol.com>
References: <498de.4bf9a990.3ab4bc7e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01cbe586$b95a43b0$2c0ecb10$@rr.com>

Hey Jim,

I used Rust-Oleum 7722 Harbor Blue.  I only painted the top half around the
light as in the original housing.  

Duke
B3820002037
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 8:48 AM
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter Cobra tach

Hello,
 
Just received my Auto Meter Cobra tach yesterday. Upon inspection, I  
noticed that the inside of the casing is white. Seems I remember Duke saying

that he painted his blue like the stock one.
 
Anybody know what "color" and type pint I should use to duplicate the look  
of the old tach?  Already have Paul Bruhan's redone faceplate.
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From wseay at embarqmail.com  Fri Mar 18 12:41:01 2011
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 15:41:01 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter Cobra tach
In-Reply-To: <498de.4bf9a990.3ab4bc7e@aol.com>
References: <498de.4bf9a990.3ab4bc7e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cbe5a4$6960a610$3c21f230$@com>

Jim,

I've done a bit of tach restoration and have found that Model Master's Turquoise
#2965 is a pretty good match to the OEM blue.  You can get Model Master paints
at most any hobby store.  The original tach was painted white inside with a
90-degree segment of blue at the top.  I paint the whole inside of the case with
white primer and then overlay the blue.  In the OEM tach, the light is at top
center which puts it in the center of the 90-degree segment.  Don't know where
the light is in your Cobra tach.

-Will 382001570

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 9:48 AM
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter Cobra tach

Hello,
 
Just received my Auto Meter Cobra tach yesterday. Upon inspection, I  
noticed that the inside of the casing is white. Seems I remember Duke saying  
that he painted his blue like the stock one.
 
Anybody know what "color" and type pint I should use to duplicate the look  
of the old tach?  Already have Paul Bruhan's redone faceplate.
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From allanballard at att.net  Fri Mar 18 13:14:03 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 16:14:03 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
In-Reply-To: <000601cbe5a4$6960a610$3c21f230$@com>
References: <498de.4bf9a990.3ab4bc7e@aol.com>
	<000601cbe5a4$6960a610$3c21f230$@com>
Message-ID: <0148515F-86A2-46AA-BD67-0785164695AB@att.net>

Is it effective to bolt a roll-bar to the car, or must it be welded?

I plan to install a roll-bar and don't relish welds that are not easily
reversible.

On the other hand, bolting a roll-bar into place is a poor solution if
a bolted roll-bar isn't strong enough to "do the job" in a worst case
scenario.

Allan Ballard
MK1a Tiger
SIV Alpine

From chris at cthompson.net  Fri Mar 18 13:50:17 2011
From: chris at cthompson.net (Chris Thompson)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 16:50:17 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
In-Reply-To: <0148515F-86A2-46AA-BD67-0785164695AB@att.net>
References: <498de.4bf9a990.3ab4bc7e@aol.com>
	<000601cbe5a4$6960a610$3c21f230$@com>
	<0148515F-86A2-46AA-BD67-0785164695AB@att.net>
Message-ID: <4D83C589.5090701@cthompson.net>

How tall are you, Allan?  The bigger issue that you'll like have is 
getting a roll bar sufficiently higher than your head and still be able 
to close the top.

That being said, a bolt-in should do you ok.  Note that the AutoPower 
roll bar is specifically marketed as a "show bar" as they don't consider 
their own product to be sufficient for roll-over protection.  I'm not 
sure why.  Although I can say that Virginia International Raceway thinks 
the AutoPower bar looks ok, excepting that I don't pass the "broomstick 
test", i.e. you can't lay a broomstick across the bar and the windshield 
without my head getting in the way.....

Regards,

Chris
B382000331

On 3/18/2011 4:14 PM, Allan Ballard wrote:
> Is it effective to bolt a roll-bar to the car, or must it be welded?
>
> I plan to install a roll-bar and don't relish welds that are not easily
> reversible.
>
> On the other hand, bolting a roll-bar into place is a poor solution if
> a bolted roll-bar isn't strong enough to "do the job" in a worst case
> scenario.
>
> Allan Ballard
> MK1a Tiger
> SIV Alpine

From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Mar 18 14:09:39 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 17:09:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
Message-ID: <4e7d5.34a4b798.3ab52413@aol.com>

specifically marketed as a "show bar" as they don't consider  
their own product to be sufficient for roll-over  protection
 
Well, for year Harley called their lower guards "crash bars".  Now of  
course they are called "highway bars."  Same bars!   Yup, damned  lawyers got 
involved:-)

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Fri Mar 18 14:10:09 2011
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 16:10:09 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
In-Reply-To: <4D83C589.5090701@cthompson.net>
References: <498de.4bf9a990.3ab4bc7e@aol.com>
	<000601cbe5a4$6960a610$3c21f230$@com>
	<0148515F-86A2-46AA-BD67-0785164695AB@att.net>
	<4D83C589.5090701@cthompson.net>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2EB3900@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

The main thing with a  bolt-in bar is to have sufficiently large backup plates
on the other side of the sheetmetal. The SCCA (and every other sanctioning
body) has guidelines for this.

I had a main hoop bent up by a local racing fab shop with longer-than-required
ends, and then trimmed it so it would just barely fit under the soft top. As
it turns out, it should also clear the hardtop by about 1/8" although that
turned out to be more luck than good planning... if I'd done that properly I
would have positioned the main hoop about 1/4" further forward.

Still, if you are tall, then 'as high as the roof will allow' may not be
sufficient, given a minimum requirement for clearance between the top of your
helmet and the line between the windshield and the bar. If this is the case
then lowering the seat as much as possible will help this, as well as usefully
lowering the CG of the car.

Cheers,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Thompson
> Sent: March 18, 2011 2:50 PM
> To: Allan Ballard
> Cc: Beamclub TIGER
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
>
> How tall are you, Allan?  The bigger issue that you'll like have is
> getting a roll bar sufficiently higher than your head and still be able
> to close the top.
>
> That being said, a bolt-in should do you ok.  Note that the AutoPower
> roll bar is specifically marketed as a "show bar" as they don't
> consider
> their own product to be sufficient for roll-over protection.  I'm not
> sure why.  Although I can say that Virginia International Raceway
> thinks
> the AutoPower bar looks ok, excepting that I don't pass the "broomstick
> test", i.e. you can't lay a broomstick across the bar and the
> windshield
> without my head getting in the way.....
>
> Regards,
>
> Chris
> B382000331
>
> On 3/18/2011 4:14 PM, Allan Ballard wrote:
> > Is it effective to bolt a roll-bar to the car, or must it be welded?
> >
> > I plan to install a roll-bar and don't relish welds that are not
> easily
> > reversible.
> >
> > On the other hand, bolting a roll-bar into place is a poor solution
> if
> > a bolted roll-bar isn't strong enough to "do the job" in a worst case
> > scenario.
> >
> > Allan Ballard
> > MK1a Tiger
> > SIV Alpine
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From chris at cthompson.net  Fri Mar 18 14:11:24 2011
From: chris at cthompson.net (Chris Thompson)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 17:11:24 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
In-Reply-To: <4e7d5.34a4b798.3ab52413@aol.com>
References: <4e7d5.34a4b798.3ab52413@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4D83CA7C.9030301@cthompson.net>

Yup.  But AutoPower markets their other roll bars as roll bars.....

On 3/18/2011 5:09 PM, CoolVT at aol.com wrote:
>
>     specifically marketed as a "show bar" as they don't consider
>     their own product to be sufficient for roll-over protection
>
> Well, for year Harley called their lower guards "crash bars".  Now of 
> course they are called "highway bars."  Same bars!   Yup, damned 
> lawyers got involved:-)

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Fri Mar 18 14:51:56 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 14:51:56 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
References: <4e7d5.34a4b798.3ab52413@aol.com> <4D83CA7C.9030301@cthompson.net>
Message-ID: <812F31C1B4DA4EEBB4C542851D508A1C@student2>

I've always thought that ANY bar (roll/show whatever) is going to be 
stronger than the erector set soft top frame, the sheet metal hard top, or 
going "topless," the windshield frame.  That was my plan when I threw down 
all of $35 for a used showbar.

 Being long waisted I'm about as tall as someone 6"4" - sitting down.  "Duck 
and Cover" are also part of and emergency plan regardless of a bar.   :-o
Tom 

From rab65tiger at aol.com  Fri Mar 18 15:30:02 2011
From: rab65tiger at aol.com (rab65tiger at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 18:30:02 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
In-Reply-To: <812F31C1B4DA4EEBB4C542851D508A1C@student2>
References: <4e7d5.34a4b798.3ab52413@aol.com> <4D83CA7C.9030301@cthompson.net>
	<812F31C1B4DA4EEBB4C542851D508A1C@student2>
Message-ID: <8CDB3D328213774-DE8-181AB@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>

 I bought a bunch of Tiger things a few years back from someone that rolled
their Tiger.  The car was totaled, and the driver was seriously injured, and
spent a very long time in the hospital.  He stated that without his roll bar
(I believe was an Autopower) he would not be alive to talk about it.  His car
was totaled, he did not know what even happened to the car, he was seriously
injured in the hospital, he had head injuries, but the roll bar kept the
entire car from landing on him, and kept him alive.

Randy B


-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Witt <atwittsend at verizon.net>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Mar 18, 2011 4:51 pm
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar


I've always thought that ANY bar (roll/show whatever) is going to be stronger
than the erector set soft top frame, the sheet metal hard top, or going
"topless," the windshield frame.  That was my plan when I threw down all of
$35 for a used showbar.

 Being long waisted I'm about as tall as someone 6"4" - sitting down.  "Duck
and Cover" are also part of and emergency plan regardless of a bar.   :-o
Tom _______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rab65tiger at aol.com

From allanballard at att.net  Fri Mar 18 15:47:06 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 18:47:06 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
In-Reply-To: <8CDB3D328213774-DE8-181AB@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>
References: <4e7d5.34a4b798.3ab52413@aol.com> <4D83CA7C.9030301@cthompson.net>
	<812F31C1B4DA4EEBB4C542851D508A1C@student2>
	<8CDB3D328213774-DE8-181AB@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <DF5FDC71-6EC3-4A63-B748-A2EFA4441F06@att.net>

Thanks folks!

Bolt in it is!!

This bar is used and came to the prior owner used, so I don't know
who made it.

It closely resembles this one on Ebay, but without the diagonal bar
sloping from one side to the other, and including feet pre-drilled for
"bolt-in."

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250788534334&vi
ewitem=&rvr_id=218977197692&mfe=sidebar

Maybe someone recognizes the type; it could be home-made but if so
is well made to fit under the soft top, which is taller than my head :)

Allan Ballard
MK1a Tiger
SIV Alpine

On Mar 18, 2011, at 6:30 PM, rab65tiger at aol.com wrote:

> I bought a bunch of Tiger things a few years back from someone that rolled
> their Tiger.  The car was totaled, and the driver was seriously injured,
and
> spent a very long time in the hospital.  He stated that without his roll
bar
> (I believe was an Autopower) he would not be alive to talk about it.  His
car
> was totaled, he did not know what even happened to the car, he was
seriously
> injured in the hospital, he had head injuries, but the roll bar kept the
> entire car from landing on him, and kept him alive.
>
> Randy B
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thomas Witt <atwittsend at verizon.net>
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Sent: Fri, Mar 18, 2011 4:51 pm
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
>
>
> I've always thought that ANY bar (roll/show whatever) is going to be
stronger
> than the erector set soft top frame, the sheet metal hard top, or going
> "topless," the windshield frame.  That was my plan when I threw down all of
> $35 for a used showbar.
>
> Being long waisted I'm about as tall as someone 6"4" - sitting down.  "Duck
> and Cover" are also part of and emergency plan regardless of a bar.   :-o
> Tom _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rab65tiger at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Fri Mar 18 16:41:30 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 18:41:30 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
In-Reply-To: <DF5FDC71-6EC3-4A63-B748-A2EFA4441F06@att.net>
References: <4e7d5.34a4b798.3ab52413@aol.com> <4D83CA7C.9030301@cthompson.net>
	<812F31C1B4DA4EEBB4C542851D508A1C@student2>
	<8CDB3D328213774-DE8-181AB@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>
	<DF5FDC71-6EC3-4A63-B748-A2EFA4441F06@att.net>
Message-ID: <001a01cbe5c6$01d14b90$0573e2b0$@rr.com>

$390 shipping!!!  The seller needs to be shot.

Duke

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 5:47 PM
To: Beamclub TIGER
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar

Thanks folks!

Bolt in it is!!

This bar is used and came to the prior owner used, so I don't know
who made it.

It closely resembles this one on Ebay, but without the diagonal bar
sloping from one side to the other, and including feet pre-drilled for
"bolt-in."

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250788534334&v
i
ewitem=&rvr_id=218977197692&mfe=sidebar

Maybe someone recognizes the type; it could be home-made but if so
is well made to fit under the soft top, which is taller than my head :)

Allan Ballard
MK1a Tiger
SIV Alpine

On Mar 18, 2011, at 6:30 PM, rab65tiger at aol.com wrote:

> I bought a bunch of Tiger things a few years back from someone that rolled
> their Tiger.  The car was totaled, and the driver was seriously injured,
and
> spent a very long time in the hospital.  He stated that without his roll
bar
> (I believe was an Autopower) he would not be alive to talk about it.  His
car
> was totaled, he did not know what even happened to the car, he was
seriously
> injured in the hospital, he had head injuries, but the roll bar kept the
> entire car from landing on him, and kept him alive.
>
> Randy B
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thomas Witt <atwittsend at verizon.net>
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Sent: Fri, Mar 18, 2011 4:51 pm
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
>
>
> I've always thought that ANY bar (roll/show whatever) is going to be
stronger
> than the erector set soft top frame, the sheet metal hard top, or going
> "topless," the windshield frame.  That was my plan when I threw down all
of
> $35 for a used showbar.
>
> Being long waisted I'm about as tall as someone 6"4" - sitting down.
"Duck
> and Cover" are also part of and emergency plan regardless of a bar.   :-o
> Tom _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rab65tiger at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Fri Mar 18 17:54:27 2011
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 20:54:27 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter Cobra tach
Message-ID: <4D83FEC3.5090709@roadrunner.com>

Is the Rustoleum harbor blue the same color used for the window washer 
bracket?

Tod
B382002384LRXFE

Hey Jim,

I used Rust-Oleum 7722 Harbor Blue.  I only painted the top half around the
light as in the original housing.

Duke
B3820002037
-----Original Message-----
From:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf OfRollright at aol.com
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 8:48 AM
To:tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter Cobra tach

Hello,

Just received my Auto Meter Cobra tach yesterday. Upon inspection, I
noticed that the inside of the casing is white. Seems I remember Duke saying

that he painted his blue like the stock one.

Anybody know what "color" and type pint I should use to duplicate the look
of the old tach?  Already have Paul Bruhan's redone faceplate.

Thanks in advance,

Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From AAAGLASSS at aol.com  Fri Mar 18 18:43:20 2011
From: AAAGLASSS at aol.com (AAAGLASSS at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 21:43:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Centerforce Clutch
Message-ID: <122491.637498f1.3ab56438@aol.com>

Any shops selling these in the San Fernando Valley or close to? Thanks  
Listers

From cbowland at msn.com  Fri Mar 18 18:59:35 2011
From: cbowland at msn.com (Curt Bowland)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 20:59:35 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Roll Bars
Message-ID: <BLU113-W2238DE54CFEAE67E426289DBB30@phx.gbl>

For years I vintaged raced with what I believed to be an Autopower roll bar.
Purchased from an SCCA recer who's car was totaled by a deer at Elkhart Lake.

The bar clears the hard top which is a real plus. I raced for years without a
top but incrasingly the height of the bar over the helmut became an issue. You
can only slouch so much. My soloution, run with the hard top on. Roll bar
height becomes a moot issue. My bar had decent size mounting plates and is a
bolt through install that was never questioned. Quite as few years back I was
also required to weld a bar behing the head area and pad it accordingly.
Always ran with a diagonal bar from mid point of hoop to passenger floor.

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Fri Mar 18 20:37:18 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 22:37:18 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Centerforce Clutch
In-Reply-To: <122491.637498f1.3ab56438@aol.com>
References: <122491.637498f1.3ab56438@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301cbe5e6$f3202500$d9606f00$@rr.com>

Summit Racing or Jegs.  I placed an order for the adjustable pushrod at Jegs
on Wednesday and it arrived today.  Summit takes about two days too.

Duke
B382002037



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of AAAGLASSS at aol.com
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 8:43 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Centerforce Clutch

Any shops selling these in the San Fernando Valley or close to? Thanks  
Listers
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Fri Mar 18 22:33:27 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 22:33:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Centerforce Clutch
In-Reply-To: <000301cbe5e6$f3202500$d9606f00$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <522926.65310.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If you have an O'Rileys auto parts store they can have any of the 3
Centerforce clutch kits the following day(2 at the most-depending on time of
the day when you order) and they are cheaper than Summit or Jegs etc. They
sell lots of the same items. For example I'm running an Accel electronic
dizzy. I made the mistake of using the resistor that reduces the 12 volts to
9.2 or whatever the exact voltage is out to the points. It burned up the
electronic component inside the dizzy. Summits tech person confirmed that I
had to run 12 volts to the dizzy.O'Rileys had it the next day and although I
don't remember the cost, it was cheaper than Jegs and Summit and there is no
shipping cost to pay. I will check asap (my memory isn't very good)what the
price is on the 3 clutch kits that Centerforce made for a SBF when I bought
mine. There may well be more or less now but I will post the information to
see if I'm nuts or not.They will also match the price of the
 competition, such as AutoZone, Coast to Coast etc. etc.
TtT

--- On Fri, 3/18/11, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

> From: Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
> bject: Re: [Tigers] Centerforce Clutch
> To: AAAGLASSS at aol.com, tigers at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, March 18, 2011, 10:37 PM
> Summit Racing or Jegs.  I placed
> an order for the adjustable pushrod at Jegs
> on Wednesday and it arrived today.  Summit takes about
> two days too.
>
> Duke
> B382002037
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of AAAGLASSS at aol.com
> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 8:43 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Centerforce Clutch
>
> Any shops selling these in the San Fernando Valley or close
> to? Thanks 
> Listers
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com

From chris at cthompson.net  Sat Mar 19 04:59:22 2011
From: chris at cthompson.net (Chris Thompson)
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 07:59:22 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
In-Reply-To: <DF5FDC71-6EC3-4A63-B748-A2EFA4441F06@att.net>
References: <4e7d5.34a4b798.3ab52413@aol.com> <4D83CA7C.9030301@cthompson.net>
	<812F31C1B4DA4EEBB4C542851D508A1C@student2>
	<8CDB3D328213774-DE8-181AB@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>
	<DF5FDC71-6EC3-4A63-B748-A2EFA4441F06@att.net>
Message-ID: <4D849A9A.4080805@cthompson.net>

Just got an e-mail from a lurker, err, I mean a new guy ;-) on the list 
who pointed out to me that AutoPower now sells two types of roll-bars 
for the Alpine/Tiger - what they now call a "street" bar, and then a 
"race" bar, too.  It *used* to be they only sold the one they called a 
"show" bar.  You can see the difference here:
http://www.autopowerindustries.com/rollbars.asp

Thanks for the heads up, Gene!  And introduce yourself to the list!

Chris Thompson
B382000331

On 3/18/2011 6:47 PM, Allan Ballard wrote:
> Thanks folks!
>
> Bolt in it is!!
>
> This bar is used and came to the prior owner used, so I don't know
> who made it.
>
> It closely resembles this one on Ebay, but without the diagonal bar
> sloping from one side to the other, and including feet pre-drilled for
> "bolt-in."
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250788534334&vi
> ewitem=&rvr_id=218977197692&mfe=sidebar
>
> Maybe someone recognizes the type; it could be home-made but if so
> is well made to fit under the soft top, which is taller than my head :)
>
> Allan Ballard
> MK1a Tiger
> SIV Alpine
>
> On Mar 18, 2011, at 6:30 PM, rab65tiger at aol.com wrote:
>
>> I bought a bunch of Tiger things a few years back from someone that rolled
>> their Tiger.  The car was totaled, and the driver was seriously injured,
> and
>> spent a very long time in the hospital.  He stated that without his roll
> bar
>> (I believe was an Autopower) he would not be alive to talk about it.  His
> car
>> was totaled, he did not know what even happened to the car, he was
> seriously
>> injured in the hospital, he had head injuries, but the roll bar kept the
>> entire car from landing on him, and kept him alive.
>>
>> Randy B
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Thomas Witt<atwittsend at verizon.net>
>> To: tigers at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Fri, Mar 18, 2011 4:51 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
>>
>>
>> I've always thought that ANY bar (roll/show whatever) is going to be
> stronger
>> than the erector set soft top frame, the sheet metal hard top, or going
>> "topless," the windshield frame.  That was my plan when I threw down all of
>> $35 for a used showbar.
>>
>> Being long waisted I'm about as tall as someone 6"4" - sitting down.  "Duck
>> and Cover" are also part of and emergency plan regardless of a bar.   :-o
>> Tom _______________________________________________

From awtiger at cox.net  Sun Mar 20 07:51:46 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger)
Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 09:51:46 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Attaching a Rollbar
In-Reply-To: <4D849A9A.4080805@cthompson.net>
References: <4e7d5.34a4b798.3ab52413@aol.com>
	<4D83CA7C.9030301@cthompson.net><812F31C1B4DA4EEBB4C542851D508A1C@student2><8CDB3D328213774-DE8-181AB@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com><DF5FDC71-6EC3-4A63-B748-A2EFA4441F06@att.net>
	<4D849A9A.4080805@cthompson.net>
Message-ID: <A4D28AFDEA194917BF5BF3D1CCEC2504@awtigerPC>

Hey, guys:

Personally, I don't think the "bolt-in vs. weld-in" issue is really the 
point.  One can mount the bolt-in bars with the backing plates, such as with 
the AutoPower units, and the mounting points become pretty solid.  To me, 
the real issue is the bracing of the roll bar.  I wouldn't even think of 
getting serious about getting on the track without at least the competition 
AutoPower unit with the diagonal brace.  However, that's just the starting 
point.  If you want real safety, then the bar has to braced against fore and 
aft movement.  This requires a brace running from the top of the bar to the 
passenger floor of the car, ala 289 Cobra.  I also take issue with the rear 
braces on the commercially available bars; they act as rear mounting feet 
but they only go about half way up the back of the bar.  You're only going 
to get real strength if those bars start at the top hoop of the main bar and 
extend rearward.  Can you really imagine what would happen if you rolled 
your car at speed, carrying a lot of forward momentum as it rolled?  As soon 
as the weight came down on the "show bar," the forward momentum would stress 
the bar to the point that it could bend or break right at the top of the 
rear mounting posts, thereby allowing the car to come all the way down on 
top of it's occupants.  Having the bracing run from the top hoop in a 
forward and rearward fashion would prevent that from happening.

I realize that there is probably not a commercially available roll bar with 
all of these attributes, which is why I had one professionally built for my 
old Alpine vintage race car.  Believe me, that was the strongest part of the 
car by far!!  If one must install a bolt-in unit, my recommendation would be 
to have a forward-facing brace welded to the front of the main hoop and 
extend it into the forward right side of the passenger floor at the point to 
where the floor meets the side of the car.  From there you could bolt it in 
if you wanted to.  I would also highly recommend that you weld in some 
proper rear-facing braces from the back of  the main hoop.  This may require 
some interesting engineering, depending upon where you want the bottom 
attachment points to be.  However, since I would assume that these roll bars 
are being installed to protect lives, a little modification here and there 
to get the bracing to fit would be worth it.

My .02 worth,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

From rootes1 at earthlink.net  Sat Mar 19 10:32:05 2011
From: rootes1 at earthlink.net (Norman C. Miller)
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 10:32:05 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] CONTACT INFO
Message-ID: <E1Q101T-0005kp-Ny@elasmtp-galgo.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Anybody have an email address for John Mamula in Hopwood, PA?

Norm

From banana111 at msn.com  Sat Mar 19 12:44:54 2011
From: banana111 at msn.com (Brent Edinger)
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 12:44:54 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Rollbar mounting
Message-ID: <BLU151-w264ED0D05BF965965F1D71F7B30@phx.gbl>

These guys could of used a rollbar and some seatbelts!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=11527

From CoolVT at aol.com  Sat Mar 19 13:10:34 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 16:10:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Rollbar mounting
Message-ID: <5740a.5d1671e0.3ab667ba@aol.com>

Now those are the guys who should have been "getting the big bucks" !
 
 
In a message dated 3/19/2011 3:54:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
banana111 at msn.com writes:

These  guys could of used a rollbar and some  seatbelts!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=11527
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From AAAGLASSS at aol.com  Sat Mar 19 13:50:10 2011
From: AAAGLASSS at aol.com (AAAGLASSS at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 16:50:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Centerforce Clutch
Message-ID: <f122.5e8870eb.3ab67102@aol.com>

Hawaii Racing had it in stock. They also highly recommended Edelbrock  
aluminum heads. Saying the over heating problem would disappear and there would  
be a gain of 30-40 HP. I'm tempted. What say ye listers?
 
 
In a message dated 3/19/2011 4:32:27 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
rab65tiger at aol.com writes:

Hawaii racing in simi valley  MAY have them in stock.  PAW (perfromance 
automotive wholesale)  chatsworth might, I think they have been struggling and 
have restricted there  stock, but might have.  I would check first with 
these suppliers before  making the drive, they should be open on Saturday..

Randie  B








-----Original  Message-----
From: AAAGLASSS at aol.com
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent:  Fri, Mar 18, 2011 8:43 pm
Subject: [Tigers] Centerforce Clutch


Any shops selling these in the San Fernando Valley or close to? Thanks  
 
 Listers
 
 _______________________________________________
 
 Tigers at autox.team.net
 
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 
 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rab65tiger at aol.com

From rab65tiger at aol.com  Sat Mar 19 14:06:43 2011
From: rab65tiger at aol.com (rab65tiger at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 17:06:43 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Centerforce Clutch
In-Reply-To: <f122.5e8870eb.3ab67102@aol.com>
References: <f122.5e8870eb.3ab67102@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CDB490AF481351-1E54-29C3@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com>

Everything depends...

What is your complete set up and combination.  The Edelbrock heads are capable
of improving H.P. with corresponding intake, carb, headers, exhaust  system,
and cam.  I have no idea with a stock set up.  Aluminum known to dissipate
heat (that's good and bad), I have never heard of aluminum heads to reduce
overheating problems.  If you have headers, are they ceramic coated?

Randy B


aluminum heads. Saying the over heating problem would disappear and there
would



be a gain of 30-40 HP. I'm tempted. What say ye listers?

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Sat Mar 19 17:43:32 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 17:43:32 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Centerforce Clutch
References: <f122.5e8870eb.3ab67102@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9344AF07C8E148C499DF3D05A2850622@student2>

>>>PAW (performance automotive wholesale)  Chatsworth might, I think they 
>>>have been struggling and have restricted there  stock, but might have.<<<

As best I know PAW only sells Hemi stuff now - under a different store front 
name.  Sadly our local PAW store closed about two years ago. :-(

Is Hawaii Racing still in business. Yep! Their overflow warehouse abuts my 
church.

Tom 

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Sat Mar 19 18:09:36 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 18:09:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Fw: centerforce clutch
Message-ID: <968636.71720.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I called earler today but O'Rileys was to busy to look up a spcial order part.
I just spoke to a kid a minute ago and he quoted $109.99 for the heavy duty. I
couldnt get dual friction from him, so I will go inside asap and get a manager
to give me the 3 prices.Not knowing which kit he was looking at but it was the
clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing Maybe tomorrow as the flu has
kept me in the house. I wouldnt wish this on someone I hate and Im told there
is another strain . I dont know if you guys on the left coast have O'Rileys or
not but Im curious what the price was from the Hawaii parts place mentiond
earlier and which of the 3 clutches it was.
Cheers, Tony
(cant remember my Mk1 vin or my TAC number but I have both, not that it
matters)

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Sat Mar 19 19:34:37 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 19:34:37 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Rollbar mounting
References: <BLU151-w264ED0D05BF965965F1D71F7B30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <3BCF2EA525614CD9AE9CFBCFB5A31E52@student2>

>>> These guys could of used a rollbar and some seatbelts! 
>>> http://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=11527 <<<

Then there is the collateral damage to the spectators! I guess my mom's "get 
away from there" did have merit.

From c_mottram at yahoo.com  Sun Mar 20 13:37:26 2011
From: c_mottram at yahoo.com (Chris Mottram)
Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 13:37:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Sealing Chrome
Message-ID: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I had my original aircleaner chromed and signed by Carroll Shelby.
Unfortunately, Carroll signed with what appears to be a "magic marker", not a
paint pen.  Is there a good way to clear coat chrome so I can be comforatable
using the aircleaner instead of  conserving it in my house?

PS, thanks for
the generator rebuild tips. It is in the shop being rebuilt.

Thanks,
 
MK 1a
Chris
 
View this at your own risk > http://www.usdebtclock.org/

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Sun Mar 20 14:58:00 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 08:58:00 +1100
Subject: [Tigers] Sealing Chrome
In-Reply-To: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimRuBrFvqsQTY_1cAeXYQo52z2iFL0_mBgDUaq_@mail.gmail.com>

I guess you could clearcoat it.. but with heat and time it may yellow.. also
you have to be somewhat concerned the paint may disolve the marker... kind
of a though call as to what to do..

On 21 March 2011 07:37, Chris Mottram <c_mottram at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I had my original aircleaner chromed and signed by Carroll Shelby.
> Unfortunately, Carroll signed with what appears to be a "magic marker", not
> a
> paint pen.  Is there a good way to clear coat chrome so I can be
> comforatable
> using the aircleaner instead of  conserving it in my house?
>
> PS, thanks for
> the generator rebuild tips. It is in the shop being rebuilt.
>
> Thanks,
>
> MK 1a
> Chris
>
> View this at your own risk > http://www.usdebtclock.org/
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Sun Mar 20 16:30:24 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 00:30:24 +0100
Subject: [Tigers] Sealing Chrome
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimRuBrFvqsQTY_1cAeXYQo52z2iFL0_mBgDUaq_@mail.gmail.com>
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTimRuBrFvqsQTY_1cAeXYQo52z2iFL0_mBgDUaq_@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1F8AFA4B-B320-4EE5-B94C-1881AF4D26AA@gmail.com>

you could take it off and only put it on for shows?   and maybe replace it
with a better breathing cheap alternative for driving?

On Mar 20, 2011, at 22:58, michael king <michael.s.king at gmail.com> wrote:

> I guess you could clearcoat it.. but with heat and time it may yellow..
also
> you have to be somewhat concerned the paint may disolve the marker... kind
> of a though call as to what to do..
>
> On 21 March 2011 07:37, Chris Mottram <c_mottram at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I had my original aircleaner chromed and signed by Carroll Shelby.
>> Unfortunately, Carroll signed with what appears to be a "magic marker",
not
>> a
>> paint pen.  Is there a good way to clear coat chrome so I can be
>> comforatable
>> using the aircleaner instead of  conserving it in my house?
>>
>> PS, thanks for
>> the generator rebuild tips. It is in the shop being rebuilt.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> MK 1a
>> Chris
>>
>> View this at your own risk > http://www.usdebtclock.org/
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From robin02 at mindspring.com  Sun Mar 20 18:36:54 2011
From: robin02 at mindspring.com (RObin Young)
Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 21:36:54 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Sealing Chrome
In-Reply-To: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <91FCB9A037B94EA89F0A4AF7062C346A@owner9967ddf8c>

 Chris, take a look at www.por15.com. They have a clear coat for chrome
wheels that may work well for you. RObin




Chris wrote: I had my original aircleaner chromed and signed by Carroll
Shelby.
Unfortunately, Carroll signed with what appears to be a "magic marker", not
a
paint pen.  Is there a good way to clear coat chrome so I can be
comforatable
using the aircleaner instead of  conserving it in my house?

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Sun Mar 20 18:53:53 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 12:53:53 +1100
Subject: [Tigers] 2011 phillip island historic racing
Message-ID: <AANLkTikOs8O8K-_TtuAGABSMhopCQfqPCi7WwRu0yw9r@mail.gmail.com>

Well its over, the anual event spectacular at phillip island has passed with
a huge weekend... a few happy snaps can be found at:
http://community.webshots.com/album/579934812vgSwty

Only 1 sunbeam competeing (in regaularity) but many guest cars and drivers
from the USA and Uk.

This year saw 3 x 250f's from the USA, GT40 from UK, Lola T70 spyder, 2 x
porsche 962, 935, 910, 718 RSK, gurney weslaky v12 F1, lolas, mustangs,
mini's etc...

also 2 quick videos:

http://rides.webshots.com/video/3098010230054462410FNJPdf
http://rides.webshots.com/video/3090678630054462410OIhyCs


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Mon Mar 21 16:31:21 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 18:31:21 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Engine is out....man that was EASY!
In-Reply-To: <91FCB9A037B94EA89F0A4AF7062C346A@owner9967ddf8c>
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<91FCB9A037B94EA89F0A4AF7062C346A@owner9967ddf8c>
Message-ID: <000c01cbe820$1603b3d0$420b1b70$@rr.com>

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/026.jpg

Follow the project here -
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2034409&id=1402147496&l=33c2567b45

Duke
B382002037

From bobdixon at frii.com  Mon Mar 21 21:50:54 2011
From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon)
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 22:50:54 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com><91FCB9A037B94EA89F0A4AF7062C346A@owner9967ddf8c>
	<000c01cbe820$1603b3d0$420b1b70$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <26D525E1A1A542AFA8DCE63BE9F82400@BobsDell>

I'm ready to get my brake system online so I was wondering what the fitting 
was for the front calipers.  I will be using 3 AN stainless lines but I'm 
not sure what adapter I need.  Looking down there it looks like a shallow 
taper on the end.  Would this be a 3/8 - 24 female in the caliper so would 
need a 3/8 - 24 male?  A previous owner just torqued down a 3 AN male-male 
fitting until it stopped leaking.

Thanks again for all the help!
Bob

P.S. The Tiger was accepted into Vintage Division of the 2011 Pikes Peak 
Hill Climb!! I got my requested number '86'.  It will be the first Tiger to 
ever compete in the 2nd oldest race in the country.  Pikes Peak or Bust 2011 

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Mon Mar 21 22:17:24 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 16:17:24 +1100
Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings
In-Reply-To: <26D525E1A1A542AFA8DCE63BE9F82400@BobsDell>
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<91FCB9A037B94EA89F0A4AF7062C346A@owner9967ddf8c>
	<000c01cbe820$1603b3d0$420b1b70$@rr.com>
	<26D525E1A1A542AFA8DCE63BE9F82400@BobsDell>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinDqndOGc42nUPDSh_26J9BwMGFH4YJa5t8Oug2@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

Cant help you off the top of my head with the brake fittings.. but as for
pikes peak, great! are you running a modified car? Also not sure if you
know.. but a sunbeam alpine competed at the climb in period.. was either a
SI or SII even ran with whitewalls.. i believe it clocked the slowest climb
of the meet.... bring back some sunbeam honour!

On 22 March 2011 15:50, Bob Dixon <bobdixon at frii.com> wrote:

> I'm ready to get my brake system online so I was wondering what the fitting
> was for the front calipers.  I will be using 3 AN stainless lines but I'm
> not sure what adapter I need.  Looking down there it looks like a shallow
> taper on the end.  Would this be a 3/8 - 24 female in the caliper so would
> need a 3/8 - 24 male?  A previous owner just torqued down a 3 AN male-male
> fitting until it stopped leaking.
>
> Thanks again for all the help!
> Bob
>
> P.S. The Tiger was accepted into Vintage Division of the 2011 Pikes Peak
> Hill Climb!! I got my requested number '86'.  It will be the first Tiger to
> ever compete in the 2nd oldest race in the country.  Pikes Peak or Bust 2011
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Tue Mar 22 06:39:55 2011
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Cullen McCann)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 08:39:55 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Engine is out....man that was EASY!
In-Reply-To: <000c01cbe820$1603b3d0$420b1b70$@rr.com>
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<91FCB9A037B94EA89F0A4AF7062C346A@owner9967ddf8c>
	<000c01cbe820$1603b3d0$420b1b70$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <00ef01cbe896$a1709700$e451c500$@com>

Nice pictorial Duke...project is really looking good, congrats!

Who's headers did you wind up with? What brand? They look nice....

Cullen
1452




-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 6:31 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Engine is out....man that was EASY!

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/026.jpg

Follow the project here -
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2034409&id=1402147496&l=33c2567b45

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Tue Mar 22 07:31:31 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 14:31:31 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] Engine is out....man that was EASY!
In-Reply-To: <00ef01cbe896$a1709700$e451c500$@com>
Message-ID: <20110322143131.KOSKC.39767.root@hrndva-web23-z01>

They are CAT club headers.

Thanks!

Duke
B382002037


---- Cullen McCann <clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Nice pictorial Duke...project is really looking good, congrats!
> 
> Who's headers did you wind up with? What brand? They look nice....
> 
> Cullen
> 1452
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Samouce's
> Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 6:31 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Engine is out....man that was EASY!
> 
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/026.jpg
> 
> Follow the project here -
> http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2034409&id=1402147496&l=33c2567b45
> 
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Tue Mar 22 08:41:38 2011
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter L)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 08:41:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
Message-ID: <604786.58679.qm@web121403.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

couple questions for the group on the "perfect garage":
 
(1) how important is it to seal concrete in your garage to prevent moisture
from coming up and through and over time causing potential corrosion in your
tiger/car undercarriage?  not looking for the practical answer ("it'll be a
while...", etc...) but if you were setting up a garage to be the perfect home
for your perfect tiger.
 
(2) what sealers do the job best? (acrylic? colloidal? polys? epoxy?)
 
(3) does a heated garage (in winter) mitigate the moisture seep from concrete
to the point that its irrelevant?
 
thks
 

From TIGEROOTES at aol.com  Tue Mar 22 09:09:55 2011
From: TIGEROOTES at aol.com (TIGEROOTES at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 12:09:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings
Message-ID: <48977.4f787077.3aba23d3@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/21/2011 10:13:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
bobdixon at frii.com writes:

> PS The Tiger was accepted into Vintage Division of the 2011 Pikes Peak 
> Hill Climb!! I got my requested number '86'.  It will be the first Tiger 
> to 
> ever compete in the 2nd oldest race in the country.  Pikes Peak or Bust 
> 2011 
> ---------------------------------------
> In around 1985-86 a Tiger competed at Pike's Peak.  The owner was way up 
> in SCCA, Denver (the hive) and his first name was Jim and I am pretty sure 
> his car was black.  He was a founding member of VR, the California based 
> Vintage Racing club, now long gone and I met him at the first Tacoma Grand 
> Prix race at the swimming pool: a bunch of us were dangling our feet in the 
> pool and talking 'old-times' .  Sir Jack Brabham's stories were fantastic, 
> including the saga of his Sunbeam Rapier.

Do to Sir Jack's stories at the pool, "Jim" personally pushed SCCA to 
accept Sunbeam Rapier as a recognized Vintage Racing car with their organization: 
I have the acceptance/homolagation paperwork with "Jim's" signature 
somewhere and I'll look for it to get his last name.

> 
> Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club     Seattle

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Tue Mar 22 09:22:16 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 09:22:16 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <604786.58679.qm@web121403.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <604786.58679.qm@web121403.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4D88CCB8.5000703@mayfco.com>

All good questions for  "U-coat it" company who sells a very good product.

mayf.....   who wishes his shop floor was coated in it.

On 3/22/2011 8:41 AM, Peter L wrote:
> couple questions for the group on the "perfect garage":
>
> (1) how important is it to seal concrete in your garage to prevent moisture
> from coming up and through and over time causing potential corrosion in your
> tiger/car undercarriage?  not looking for the practical answer ("it'll be a
> while...", etc...) but if you were setting up a garage to be the perfect home
> for your perfect tiger.
>
> (2) what sealers do the job best? (acrylic? colloidal? polys? epoxy?)
>
> (3) does a heated garage (in winter) mitigate the moisture seep from concrete
> to the point that its irrelevant?
>
> thks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Tue Mar 22 10:25:42 2011
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 12:25:42 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <4D88CCB8.5000703@mayfco.com>
References: <604786.58679.qm@web121403.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4D88CCB8.5000703@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2EB3C9B@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

We have an in-floor-heated slab in our garage floor. I coated the last bay,
about 350 sq.ft. worth, in Behr 2-part floor epoxy, when the floor was new -
that took about two gallons worth. Five years on, it's staying on there really
well. IIRC the slab has poly underlay and between that and the heating we
don't get any significant moisture on the floor even in the uncoated part of
the floor. The floor does get all kinds of snow and gunk dropped on it from
our daily drivers, but that seems to dissipate over a period of a day or two,
typically.

Cheers,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
> Sent: March 22, 2011 10:22 AM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
>
> All good questions for  "U-coat it" company who sells a very good
> product.
>
> mayf.....   who wishes his shop floor was coated in it.
>
> On 3/22/2011 8:41 AM, Peter L wrote:
> > couple questions for the group on the "perfect garage":
> >
> > (1) how important is it to seal concrete in your garage to prevent
> moisture
> > from coming up and through and over time causing potential corrosion
> in your
> > tiger/car undercarriage?  not looking for the practical answer
> ("it'll be a
> > while...", etc...) but if you were setting up a garage to be the
> perfect home
> > for your perfect tiger.
> >
> > (2) what sealers do the job best? (acrylic? colloidal? polys? epoxy?)
> >
> > (3) does a heated garage (in winter) mitigate the moisture seep from
> concrete
> > to the point that its irrelevant?
> >
> > thks
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Tue Mar 22 10:55:00 2011
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 12:55:00 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Engine is out....man that was EASY!
In-Reply-To: <000c01cbe820$1603b3d0$420b1b70$@rr.com>
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com><91FCB9A037B94EA89F0A4AF7062C346A@owner9967ddf8c>
	<000c01cbe820$1603b3d0$420b1b70$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <9BD624D6EB4147F3B5736A551B926FB0@jerry>

Duke,

Looks like a great job you are doing, reminds me when I did mine.  It looks
like you did a little "clearance mod" on #2 exhaust pipe, which is a very
smart thing to do.  When I did mine, I made sure that every exhaust bolt was
accessible by either a box end wrench or a socket, some needing more
"adjustment" than others. Now with the engine in place all bolts are easily
accessible.

One question, why did you opt for the 28oz balance instead of the 50oz.??

Jerry Christopherson 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 6:31 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Engine is out....man that was EASY!

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/026.jpg

Follow the project here -
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2034409&id=1402147496&l=33c2567b45

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Tue Mar 22 10:59:28 2011
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 12:59:28 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings
In-Reply-To: <26D525E1A1A542AFA8DCE63BE9F82400@BobsDell>
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com><91FCB9A037B94EA89F0A4AF7062C346A@owner9967ddf8c><000c01cbe820$1603b3d0$420b1b70$@rr.com>
	<26D525E1A1A542AFA8DCE63BE9F82400@BobsDell>
Message-ID: <FCF9CB74B3A842D2BE5508FC46A8AD39@jerry>

To my recollection it is in fact 3/8-24 straight threads, but has a copper
washer (soft) that will do the sealing.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Dixon
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 11:51 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings

I'm ready to get my brake system online so I was wondering what the fitting 
was for the front calipers.  I will be using 3 AN stainless lines but I'm 
not sure what adapter I need.  Looking down there it looks like a shallow 
taper on the end.  Would this be a 3/8 - 24 female in the caliper so would 
need a 3/8 - 24 male?  A previous owner just torqued down a 3 AN male-male 
fitting until it stopped leaking.

Thanks again for all the help!
Bob

P.S. The Tiger was accepted into Vintage Division of the 2011 Pikes Peak 
Hill Climb!! I got my requested number '86'.  It will be the first Tiger to 
ever compete in the 2nd oldest race in the country.  Pikes Peak or Bust 2011

_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From bobdixon at frii.com  Tue Mar 22 11:34:27 2011
From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 12:34:27 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings
In-Reply-To: <FCF9CB74B3A842D2BE5508FC46A8AD39@jerry>
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com><91FCB9A037B94EA89F0A4AF7062C346A@owner9967ddf8c><000c01cbe820$1603b3d0$420b1b70$@rr.com>
	<26D525E1A1A542AFA8DCE63BE9F82400@BobsDell>
	<FCF9CB74B3A842D2BE5508FC46A8AD39@jerry>
Message-ID: <a6cdf4d15fefa2f162fbd7177d99e165@localhost>

Perfect!!  Thanks

On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 12:59:28 -0500, "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)"
<JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net> wrote:
> To my recollection it is in fact 3/8-24 straight threads, but has a copper
> washer (soft) that will do the sealing.
> 
> Jerry Christopherson
> 9473187
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Dixon
> Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 11:51 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings
> 
> I'm ready to get my brake system online so I was wondering what the fitting 
> was for the front calipers.  I will be using 3 AN stainless lines but I'm 
> not sure what adapter I need.  Looking down there it looks like a shallow 
> taper on the end.  Would this be a 3/8 - 24 female in the caliper so would 
> need a 3/8 - 24 male?  A previous owner just torqued down a 3 AN male-male 
> fitting until it stopped leaking.
> 
> Thanks again for all the help!
> Bob
> 
> P.S. The Tiger was accepted into Vintage Division of the 2011 Pikes Peak 
> Hill Climb!! I got my requested number '86'.  It will be the first Tiger to 
> ever compete in the 2nd oldest race in the country.  Pikes Peak or Bust 2011
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From jliny5 at cox.net  Tue Mar 22 11:34:37 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 14:34:37 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues
Message-ID: <143A02F4ADA44D32ABD739B5AE36BA84@JPC>

Hi All,

For the past 10 weeks my Mk1 has been in the body shop getting some issues
with the original body restoration (now 10 years old) addressed. After getting
it all back together, went to start it and the fuel pump was dead. Thought it
might be the charge, but even with 12V direct to the fuel pump...nothing.

It is an original SU fuel pump, so the mechanic at the shop is going to try
clean up the points to see if that works. In anticipation of a worst case
scenario what are my options for replacement.

I did not see anything at Sunbeam Specialties, but did see a replacement
electric pump at Victoria British for $212 ($26 for just points).

Any other options? My Mk1 has the stock 260 with the LAT 1 Induction set up,
LAT 20 High Performance Camshaft and LAT 74 2" exhaust...no headers. It
generates about 200+hp at the engine.

Thanks

Jim Lindner

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Tue Mar 22 11:57:33 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 18:57:33 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] Engine is out....man that was EASY!
In-Reply-To: <9BD624D6EB4147F3B5736A551B926FB0@jerry>
Message-ID: <20110322185733.DC8B1.43445.root@hrndva-web06-z01>

Hey Jerry,

I have not touched the CAT club headers yet.  That is what you get out of the box, great quality!  I found the shortblock on Crag's List locally.  The seller had all receipts for a $4600 build.  I paid $2000.  It was already ballanced with 28oz imballance, I just stayed with the 28oz when I got the flywheel.  I figure the 22 less oz's will be more HP :^).

I just figured out that I need longer rocker studs....yet another call to Summit, they love me right now.  Its looking like the chrome valve covers will fit with one gasket.....very cool. 

Duke
B382002037


---- "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" <JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net> wrote: 
> Duke,
> 
> Looks like a great job you are doing, reminds me when I did mine.  It looks
> like you did a little "clearance mod" on #2 exhaust pipe, which is a very
> smart thing to do.  When I did mine, I made sure that every exhaust bolt was
> accessible by either a box end wrench or a socket, some needing more
> "adjustment" than others. Now with the engine in place all bolts are easily
> accessible.
> 
> One question, why did you opt for the 28oz balance instead of the 50oz.??
> 
> Jerry Christopherson 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Samouce's
> Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 6:31 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Engine is out....man that was EASY!
> 
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/026.jpg
> 
> Follow the project here -
> http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2034409&id=1402147496&l=33c2567b45
> 
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Tue Mar 22 12:14:46 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 12:14:46 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Engine is out....man that was EASY!
In-Reply-To: <9BD624D6EB4147F3B5736A551B926FB0@jerry>
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com><91FCB9A037B94EA89F0A4AF7062C346A@owner9967ddf8c>
	<000c01cbe820$1603b3d0$420b1b70$@rr.com>
	<9BD624D6EB4147F3B5736A551B926FB0@jerry>
Message-ID: <4D88F526.9030400@mayfco.com>

I think I can answer the balance question. The 347 stroker kits are 
balanced for that external weight.  Tiz what you get.  I personally 
would have gone for the neutral balance crank though. Then had it 
balanced only to the bob weight for the rod big ends etc.

there are head bolts that have allen socket head bolts as well as some 
that have 3/8 external hex ends for wrench clearance.  I went to studs 
with nuts on the Sunbeam LSR car, however.  Coarse threads in the head, 
fine threads for cinching down the header flange. Used Locktite blue on 
the head coarse threads.  I hate it when they back out...

Tiz a very nice engine he has...

mayf

On 3/22/2011 10:55 AM, Jerry & Maureen (Mo) wrote:
> Duke,
>
> Looks like a great job you are doing, reminds me when I did mine.  It looks
> like you did a little "clearance mod" on #2 exhaust pipe, which is a very
> smart thing to do.  When I did mine, I made sure that every exhaust bolt was
> accessible by either a box end wrench or a socket, some needing more
> "adjustment" than others. Now with the engine in place all bolts are easily
> accessible.
>
> One question, why did you opt for the 28oz balance instead of the 50oz.??
>
> Jerry Christopherson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Samouce's
> Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 6:31 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Engine is out....man that was EASY!
>
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/026.jpg
>
> Follow the project here -
> http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2034409&id=1402147496&l=33c2567b45
>
> Duke
> B382002037

From jliny5 at cox.net  Tue Mar 22 12:42:25 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 15:42:25 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues--Update
In-Reply-To: <143A02F4ADA44D32ABD739B5AE36BA84@JPC>
References: <143A02F4ADA44D32ABD739B5AE36BA84@JPC>
Message-ID: <5E7D29318D9043F4BFE86E0238C820B4@JPC>

Points cleaned up and it ran for a few minutes then stopped. Look as if the 
entire unit needs replacing...options for replacement???

Thx, Jim
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Lindner" <jliny5 at cox.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 2:34 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues


> Hi All,
>
> For the past 10 weeks my Mk1 has been in the body shop getting some issues
> with the original body restoration (now 10 years old) addressed. After 
> getting
> it all back together, went to start it and the fuel pump was dead. Thought 
> it
> might be the charge, but even with 12V direct to the fuel pump...nothing.
>
> It is an original SU fuel pump, so the mechanic at the shop is going to 
> try
> clean up the points to see if that works. In anticipation of a worst case
> scenario what are my options for replacement.
>
> I did not see anything at Sunbeam Specialties, but did see a replacement
> electric pump at Victoria British for $212 ($26 for just points).
>
> Any other options? My Mk1 has the stock 260 with the LAT 1 Induction set 
> up,
> LAT 20 High Performance Camshaft and LAT 74 2" exhaust...no headers. It
> generates about 200+hp at the engine.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim Lindner
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5 at cox.net

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Tue Mar 22 13:31:41 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 13:31:41 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues--Update
In-Reply-To: <5E7D29318D9043F4BFE86E0238C820B4@JPC>
References: <143A02F4ADA44D32ABD739B5AE36BA84@JPC>
	<5E7D29318D9043F4BFE86E0238C820B4@JPC>
Message-ID: <4D89072D.2070805@mayfco.com>

IIRC the OEM pump only ran when demands required it.  I could be wrong 
however, I have been wrong once this year and that is my quota, lol. 
Others chime in?

mayf

On 3/22/2011 12:42 PM, James Lindner wrote:
> Points cleaned up and it ran for a few minutes then stopped. Look as 
> if the entire unit needs replacing...options for replacement???
>
> Thx, Jim
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Lindner" <jliny5 at cox.net>
> To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 2:34 PM
> Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues
>
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> For the past 10 weeks my Mk1 has been in the body shop getting some 
>> issues
>> with the original body restoration (now 10 years old) addressed. 
>> After getting
>> it all back together, went to start it and the fuel pump was dead. 
>> Thought it
>> might be the charge, but even with 12V direct to the fuel 
>> pump...nothing.
>>
>> It is an original SU fuel pump, so the mechanic at the shop is going 
>> to try
>> clean up the points to see if that works. In anticipation of a worst 
>> case
>> scenario what are my options for replacement.
>>
>> I did not see anything at Sunbeam Specialties, but did see a replacement
>> electric pump at Victoria British for $212 ($26 for just points).
>>
>> Any other options? My Mk1 has the stock 260 with the LAT 1 Induction 
>> set up,
>> LAT 20 High Performance Camshaft and LAT 74 2" exhaust...no headers. It
>> generates about 200+hp at the engine.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Jim Lindner

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Tue Mar 22 13:34:44 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 13:34:44 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings
In-Reply-To: <48977.4f787077.3aba23d3@aol.com>
References: <48977.4f787077.3aba23d3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4D8907E4.8000301@mayfco.com>

I also seem to remember a Tiger competing at Pike Peak.  It was a full 
on race car as I remember and did pretty well for he class. I could be 
wrong. I haven't used up my quota for "being wrong" for March yet, lol...

mayf

On 3/22/2011 9:09 AM, TIGEROOTES at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/21/2011 10:13:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> bobdixon at frii.com writes:
>
>> PS The Tiger was accepted into Vintage Division of the 2011 Pikes Peak
>> Hill Climb!! I got my requested number '86'.  It will be the first Tiger
>> to
>> ever compete in the 2nd oldest race in the country.  Pikes Peak or Bust
>> 2011
>> ---------------------------------------
>> In around 1985-86 a Tiger competed at Pike's Peak.  The owner was way up
>> in SCCA, Denver (the hive) and his first name was Jim and I am pretty sure
>> his car was black.  He was a founding member of VR, the California based
>> Vintage Racing club, now long gone and I met him at the first Tacoma Grand
>> Prix race at the swimming pool: a bunch of us were dangling our feet in the
>> pool and talking 'old-times' .  Sir Jack Brabham's stories were fantastic,
>> including the saga of his Sunbeam Rapier.
> Do to Sir Jack's stories at the pool, "Jim" personally pushed SCCA to
> accept Sunbeam Rapier as a recognized Vintage Racing car with their organization:
> I have the acceptance/homolagation paperwork with "Jim's" signature
> somewhere and I'll look for it to get his last name.
>
>> Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club     Seattle

From thorlp at hotmail.com  Tue Mar 22 13:45:09 2011
From: thorlp at hotmail.com (stan gorski)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 16:45:09 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings
In-Reply-To: <a6cdf4d15fefa2f162fbd7177d99e165@localhost>
References: <588852.41136.qm@web38302.mail.mud.yahoo.com><91FCB9A037B94EA89F0A4AF7062C346A@owner9967ddf8c><000c01cbe820$1603b3d0$420b1b70$@rr.com>,
	<26D525E1A1A542AFA8DCE63BE9F82400@BobsDell>,
	<FCF9CB74B3A842D2BE5508FC46A8AD39@jerry>,
	<a6cdf4d15fefa2f162fbd7177d99e165@localhost>
Message-ID: <SNT127-W49EDA649F1EB97431E8C0DD2B40@phx.gbl>

Bob, I am getting ready to re-do my brakes, a wealth of info can be found at
fedhillusa.com. I think I am going with the Cunifer lines along with a Suburu
duel master cylinder.  Jerry's info is right on, it took me a while to figure
the copper washer thing.  Stan Gorski, Sarasota, fl

> Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 12:34:27 -0600
> From: bobdixon at frii.com
> To: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net
> CC: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake fittings
>
> Perfect!!  Thanks
>
> On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 12:59:28 -0500, "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)"
> <JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net> wrote:
> > To my recollection it is in fact 3/8-24 straight threads, but has a
copper
> > washer (soft) that will do the sealing.
> >
> > Jerry Christopherson
> > 9473187
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Bob Dixon
> > Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 11:51 PM
> > To: tigers at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings
> >
> > I'm ready to get my brake system online so I was wondering what the
fitting
> > was for the front calipers.  I will be using 3 AN stainless lines but I'm
> > not sure what adapter I need.  Looking down there it looks like a shallow
> > taper on the end.  Would this be a 3/8 - 24 female in the caliper so would
> > need a 3/8 - 24 male?  A previous owner just torqued down a 3 AN male-male
> > fitting until it stopped leaking.
> >
> > Thanks again for all the help!
> > Bob
> >
> > P.S. The Tiger was accepted into Vintage Division of the 2011 Pikes Peak
> > Hill Climb!! I got my requested number '86'.  It will be the first Tiger
to
> > ever compete in the 2nd oldest race in the country.  Pikes Peak or Bust
2011
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/thorlp at hotmail.com

From fordlandia at sbcglobal.net  Tue Mar 22 14:50:19 2011
From: fordlandia at sbcglobal.net (Bill Waite)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 14:50:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers]  garage floor coatings
Message-ID: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Peter,

About 6 years ago I built my "dream" garage here in Michigan where humidity
and heating are issues.  I've had very good luck with 2-part epoxy floor paint
(bulletproof in my experience).  Where I really spent time, however, is in
insulating the walls and ceilings, lots of soffit vents, plus I added a Reznor
ceiling mounted gas heater (vented through the roof) and a "attic fan" that
kicks on at high temps in the summer.  .  The "un-vented" heaters can add
moisture (or at least that is what I was told at the time).  I also purchased
a really good dehumidifier and have it at a medium setting year round.  Runs
only when it needs to.  That combination (great insulation, venting, heater,
fan and dehumidifier) keeps everything very cool in the summer, warm in the
winter and dry all year.

Last May I had our '65 356C Porsche coupe (owned since 1975) media blasted and
have been working on the metal work ever since.  The body is blasted bare...
and not a spec of spot rust has appeared.

Regards,

Bill Waite
Grand Rapids, MI

From bobdixon at frii.com  Tue Mar 22 15:45:54 2011
From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 16:45:54 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings/ Pikes Peak
In-Reply-To: <4D8907E4.8000301@mayfco.com>
References: <48977.4f787077.3aba23d3@aol.com>
  <4D8907E4.8000301@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <9514c13ba86b4891f0787bbba0a918ef@localhost>

You guys are probably right. 

I received this from the Pikes Peak historian a couple of months ago:

Dear Bob: 

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I found one time that a
Sunbeam raced Pikes Peak, that was in 1966 and it was driven by Ralph
Bruning, it was listed as car # 1. It was in the Sports Car Class
group 2:0-2000cc. It finished in fourth place out of five cars with a
time of 19:18.3.  

David Bachoroski, President 
Pikes Peak Hill Climb Historical Assn.


On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 13:34:44 -0700, Larry Mayfield <drmayf at mayfco.com>
wrote:
> I also seem to remember a Tiger competing at Pike Peak.  It was a
> full on race car as I remember and did pretty well for he class. I
> could be wrong. I haven't used up my quota for "being wrong" for March
> yet, lol...
> 
> mayf
> 
> On 3/22/2011 9:09 AM, TIGEROOTES at aol.com wrote:
>> In a message dated 3/21/2011 10:13:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>> bobdixon at frii.com writes:
>>
>>> PS The Tiger was accepted into Vintage Division of the 2011 Pikes Peak
>>> Hill Climb!! I got my requested number '86'.  It will be the first Tiger
>>> to
>>> ever compete in the 2nd oldest race in the country.  Pikes Peak or Bust
>>> 2011
>>> ---------------------------------------
>>> In around 1985-86 a Tiger competed at Pike's Peak.  The owner was way up
>>> in SCCA, Denver (the hive) and his first name was Jim and I am pretty sure
>>> his car was black.  He was a founding member of VR, the California based
>>> Vintage Racing club, now long gone and I met him at the first Tacoma Grand
>>> Prix race at the swimming pool: a bunch of us were dangling our feet in the
>>> pool and talking 'old-times' .  Sir Jack Brabham's stories were fantastic,
>>> including the saga of his Sunbeam Rapier.
>> Do to Sir Jack's stories at the pool, "Jim" personally pushed SCCA to
>> accept Sunbeam Rapier as a recognized Vintage Racing car with their organization:
>> I have the acceptance/homolagation paperwork with "Jim's" signature
>> somewhere and I'll look for it to get his last name.
>>
>>> Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club     Seattle
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobdixon at frii.com

From chris at cthompson.net  Tue Mar 22 16:22:35 2011
From: chris at cthompson.net (Chris Thompson)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 19:22:35 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4D892F3B.1040603@cthompson.net>

Ditto here.  About 10 years ago built my dream garage at the time - a 
3-car with a lift.  Used Ben Moore's best 2-part epoxy, and have been 
very pleased.  I'm sure if I scrubbed or pressure washed it right now, 
it would look like new.

Am building my new dream car garage at the new house - an 8 car garage 
with 3 lifts.  Considered briefly putting down porcelain tile, but have 
gone back to 2-part epoxy.

But of course, if you haven't poured your pad yet, absolutely put down a 
couple layers of plastic just before the pour.  And then, like Bill, I 
run a dehumidifier in the summer.  I use heat pumps in the winter in the 
new garage, as they do a great job of getting rid of the moisture, too.

Bill's unvented gas heaters will add moisture to the air in the winter, 
and would be interested to hear why you might want to do that.  In the 
current garage, I started with that, too (cheapest heat).  After about 2 
years I thought to put in a carbon monoxide alarm.  It went off right 
away - I thought it was broken.  Obviously, that wasn't the problem.  I 
immediately took out that heater and put in a vented gas furnace.  I 
spent a lot of time in the garage those first couple of winters and in 
retrospect thought that the CO really had been negatively effecting me.  
Wouldn't recommend it myself for health or humidity.  But it seems to 
working ok for Bill.

Chris

On 3/22/2011 5:50 PM, Bill Waite wrote:
> Peter,
>
> About 6 years ago I built my "dream" garage here in Michigan where humidity
> and heating are issues.  I've had very good luck with 2-part epoxy floor paint
> (bulletproof in my experience).  Where I really spent time, however, is in
> insulating the walls and ceilings, lots of soffit vents, plus I added a Reznor
> ceiling mounted gas heater (vented through the roof) and a "attic fan" that
> kicks on at high temps in the summer.  .  The "un-vented" heaters can add
> moisture (or at least that is what I was told at the time).  I also purchased
> a really good dehumidifier and have it at a medium setting year round.  Runs
> only when it needs to.  That combination (great insulation, venting, heater,
> fan and dehumidifier) keeps everything very cool in the summer, warm in the
> winter and dry all year.
>
> Last May I had our '65 356C Porsche coupe (owned since 1975) media blasted and
> have been working on the metal work ever since.  The body is blasted bare...
> and not a spec of spot rust has appeared.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bill Waite
> Grand Rapids, MI

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Tue Mar 22 16:26:31 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 16:26:31 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
References: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C2C70234311244C29A9861090E0EEC0A@student2>

The previous owner of my home was a machinist.  Apparently machining coolant 
makes an excellent barrier. Water puddles and even when warm sits there for 
quite some time.

Not trying to get off the subject but..., just how much does it cost to heat 
a garage in these cold climates??? I've been 40 years in So. Cal. where may 
be it gets to the high 30's  (nights) and typically 58-64 (days) during our 
short winters and the cost would still seem astronomical. I would think in a 
cold climate you would have to pre-heat before you could even use the room 
(further increasing the cost).

Tom 

From awtiger at cox.net  Wed Mar 23 16:42:18 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger)
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 18:42:18 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <780249D1F1524D439D152F0B8A0A5BEE@awtigerPC>

Hey, guys:

I've got to chime in here as well.  I've just finished my 1,200 sq ft shop 
and, like my older smaller one, I have it fixed up like a museum.  I collect 
old automotive-related signs and stuff like that, so I wanted a really nice 
place in which to hang them, plus store and work on my cars.  It's gas 
heated, just like my old one and I'll probably put a dehumidifier in there 
as well, just like my old one.  I've had no moisture issues with that set up 
in my old shop, and Oklahoma is well known for it's summer humidity.

Now, as far as the floor is concerned, this time around I used U-Coat-It on 
the floor, which is a two-part epoxy system.  I made sure to prep the floor 
(new slab) per U-Coat-It's instructions, even speaking to them on the phone 
a couple of times during the project.  I have no problems with the epoxy 
paint; it appears to be fine.  However, this time, I wanted to get a gloss 
coat on the floor, and to that end I used their clear coat product.  Once 
again, it was put down to the letter of their instructions and the results 
look fantastic.  It also repels oil and other chemicals very handily.

However...and this is a big however...I found out very quickly that the 
clear coat scratches at the slightest provocation.  My engine hoist with 
it's metal wheels promptly left it's mark, as did my engine stand, neither 
one with any weight on them.  Then, a friend of mine tracked in a piece of 
gravel in his shoe treads and scratched it again.  Needless to say, if you 
plan to do any serious work in your shop, stay the heck away from the clear 
coat.  I plan to do some restoration work in the work bay of my shop and I'm 
either going to have to refinish the floor after every project or put down 
Race Deck or an equivalent product to protect the floor (at a much greater 
expense, I might add...).

Hope this helps you,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

From CoolVT at aol.com  Tue Mar 22 17:10:54 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 20:10:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
Message-ID: <30bda.1943eb3e.3aba948e@aol.com>

Chris,
Curious, how well does the epoxy hold up to banging and scraping....like  
dragging floor jacks and such?  Also is the same prep necessary before  
applying.....remove all oil?
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 3/22/2011 8:03:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
chris at cthompson.net writes:

Ditto  here.  About 10 years ago built my dream garage at the time - a 
3-car  with a lift.  Used Ben Moore's best 2-part epoxy, and have been 
very  pleased.  I'm sure if I scrubbed or pressure washed it right now, 
it  would look like new.

Am building my new dream car garage at the new  house - an 8 car garage 
with 3 lifts.  Considered briefly putting  down porcelain tile, but have 
gone back to 2-part epoxy.

But of  course, if you haven't poured your pad yet, absolutely put down a 
couple  layers of plastic just before the pour.  And then, like Bill, I 
run a  dehumidifier in the summer.  I use heat pumps in the winter in the  
new garage, as they do a great job of getting rid of the moisture,  too.

Bill's unvented gas heaters will add moisture to the air in the  winter, 
and would be interested to hear why you might want to do  that.  In the 
current garage, I started with that, too (cheapest  heat).  After about 2 
years I thought to put in a carbon monoxide  alarm.  It went off right 
away - I thought it was broken.   Obviously, that wasn't the problem.  I 
immediately took out that  heater and put in a vented gas furnace.  I 
spent a lot of time in the  garage those first couple of winters and in 
retrospect thought that the CO  really had been negatively effecting me.  
Wouldn't recommend it  myself for health or humidity.  But it seems to 
working ok for  Bill.

Chris

On 3/22/2011 5:50 PM, Bill Waite wrote:
>  Peter,
>
> About 6 years ago I built my "dream" garage here in  Michigan where 
humidity
> and heating are issues.  I've had very  good luck with 2-part epoxy floor 
paint
> (bulletproof in my  experience).  Where I really spent time, however, is 
in
>  insulating the walls and ceilings, lots of soffit vents, plus I added a  
Reznor
> ceiling mounted gas heater (vented through the roof) and a  "attic fan" 
that
> kicks on at high temps in the summer.  .   The "un-vented" heaters can add
> moisture (or at least that is what I  was told at the time).  I also 
purchased
> a really good  dehumidifier and have it at a medium setting year round.  
Runs
>  only when it needs to.  That combination (great insulation, venting,  
heater,
> fan and dehumidifier) keeps everything very cool in the  summer, warm in 
the
> winter and dry all year.
>
> Last May  I had our '65 356C Porsche coupe (owned since 1975) media 
blasted and
>  have been working on the metal work ever since.  The body is blasted  
bare...
> and not a spec of spot rust has appeared.
>
>  Regards,
>
> Bill Waite
> Grand Rapids,  MI
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From chris at cthompson.net  Tue Mar 22 17:16:59 2011
From: chris at cthompson.net (Chris Thompson)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 20:16:59 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <C2C70234311244C29A9861090E0EEC0A@student2>
References: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<C2C70234311244C29A9861090E0EEC0A@student2>
Message-ID: <4D893BFB.1040001@cthompson.net>

Don't ask, Tom ;-)

Actually, I just set the thermostat at about 45 degrees.  The heat is 
mainly to remove moisture, and to "preheat" the garage for when I want 
to go out there to work.  De-humidifiers by themselves don't work in the 
cold.  And we can have 50 degree swings in temperature during the day, 
which will cause condensing moisture, which is of course the worst.  So 
got to keep that relative humidity down, as well as the temp swings year 
'round.  Only costs me a couple hundred dollars per year in the SW VA 
mountains.

I grew up in Manhattan Beach.  While you don't have the problems in 
SoCal we do, I remember all of my dad's tools rusting out in the garage 
in no time from the salt air.  I'm in the West Indies right now and just 
sold my Mini-Moke this week to a friend - got tired of having to get it 
stripped and repainted every 3 years from the salt air and high humidity....

Chris

On 3/22/2011 7:26 PM, Thomas Witt wrote:
> The previous owner of my home was a machinist.  Apparently machining 
> coolant makes an excellent barrier. Water puddles and even when warm 
> sits there for quite some time.
>
> Not trying to get off the subject but..., just how much does it cost 
> to heat a garage in these cold climates??? I've been 40 years in So. 
> Cal. where may be it gets to the high 30's  (nights) and typically 
> 58-64 (days) during our short winters and the cost would still seem 
> astronomical. I would think in a cold climate you would have to 
> pre-heat before you could even use the room (further increasing the 
> cost).
>
> Tom _______________________________________________

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Mar 22 17:16:55 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 20:16:55 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues--Update
In-Reply-To: <5E7D29318D9043F4BFE86E0238C820B4@JPC>
Message-ID: <ED06483A013D4313A608D1B3CBB18B18@ronpc1>

Jim
	The SU fuel pump can be finicky;  I had to tickle mine once for a
couple hundred miles.

I believe you can still buy points which will usually get you running again.

There is a section in the Shop Manual for setting the points; you might want
to check that first.

If you Google SU fuel pump; there is a guy on there that rebuilds the pumps
and test them he may even have the electronic conversion to eliminate the
points.  If you want the web site I will have to look for it I know I have
it here somewhere.

I finally change my fuel pump.  There are a few on demand pumps out there or
at least there were the last time I looked.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Lindner
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 3:42 PM
To: James Lindner; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues--Update


Points cleaned up and it ran for a few minutes then stopped. Look as if the
entire unit needs replacing...options for replacement???

Thx, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lindner" <jliny5 at cox.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 2:34 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues


> Hi All,
>
> For the past 10 weeks my Mk1 has been in the body shop getting some
> issues with the original body restoration (now 10 years old)
> addressed. After getting it all back together, went to start it and
> the fuel pump was dead. Thought it
> might be the charge, but even with 12V direct to the fuel pump...nothing.
>
> It is an original SU fuel pump, so the mechanic at the shop is going
> to
> try
> clean up the points to see if that works. In anticipation of a worst case
> scenario what are my options for replacement.
>
> I did not see anything at Sunbeam Specialties, but did see a
> replacement electric pump at Victoria British for $212 ($26 for just
> points).
>
> Any other options? My Mk1 has the stock 260 with the LAT 1 Induction
> set
> up,
> LAT 20 High Performance Camshaft and LAT 74 2" exhaust...no headers. It
> generates about 200+hp at the engine.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim Lindner
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5 at cox.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3522 - Release Date: 03/22/11
07:34:00

From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Tue Mar 22 17:27:59 2011
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 20:27:59 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues
Message-ID: <4D893E8F.6020107@roadrunner.com>

Jim:

It sounds like it is time for a new pump, even if you can get the old 
one working.  There are newer pumps available that look identical to the 
original but use electronics to do the switching instead of the points.  
As a result they are much more reliable. In the original design, the 
points carry a large current and that is why they eventually erode and 
need to be filed down or replaced.  IIRC, the original pump carries the 
part no. AUF 301, but that has been superseded by AUF 303.  The big 
Healey uses the same pump and Moss Motors carries them.  You can 
probably search the web and find other suppliers.

Good luck,

Tod
B382002384LRXFE

From jliny5 at cox.net  Tue Mar 22 17:32:22 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 20:32:22 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues--Update
In-Reply-To: <ED06483A013D4313A608D1B3CBB18B18@ronpc1>
References: <ED06483A013D4313A608D1B3CBB18B18@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <EF8F40D316784B9CAC4BA103395E5874@JPC>

Ron

Thanks. This is on the guys at the restoration shop that was doing the body 
work since it stopped working while they had it. They work on mostly jags 
but they are familiar with the SU pumps. Just sent the shop an email to 
double check things per Mayf's and Gary's email about the on demand aspects 
of the SU. Will follow up with them via phone in the AM. Since they are 
almost 1+ hours away I might just have them change it out and then consider 
other options later.
Jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
To: "'James Lindner'" <jliny5 at cox.net>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 8:16 PM
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues--Update


Jim
The SU fuel pump can be finicky;  I had to tickle mine once for a
couple hundred miles.

I believe you can still buy points which will usually get you running again.

There is a section in the Shop Manual for setting the points; you might want
to check that first.

If you Google SU fuel pump; there is a guy on there that rebuilds the pumps
and test them he may even have the electronic conversion to eliminate the
points.  If you want the web site I will have to look for it I know I have
it here somewhere.

I finally change my fuel pump.  There are a few on demand pumps out there or
at least there were the last time I looked.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Lindner
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 3:42 PM
To: James Lindner; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues--Update


Points cleaned up and it ran for a few minutes then stopped. Look as if the
entire unit needs replacing...options for replacement???

Thx, Jim
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Lindner" <jliny5 at cox.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 2:34 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pump Issues


> Hi All,
>
> For the past 10 weeks my Mk1 has been in the body shop getting some
> issues with the original body restoration (now 10 years old)
> addressed. After getting it all back together, went to start it and
> the fuel pump was dead. Thought it
> might be the charge, but even with 12V direct to the fuel pump...nothing.
>
> It is an original SU fuel pump, so the mechanic at the shop is going
> to
> try
> clean up the points to see if that works. In anticipation of a worst case
> scenario what are my options for replacement.
>
> I did not see anything at Sunbeam Specialties, but did see a
> replacement electric pump at Victoria British for $212 ($26 for just
> points).
>
> Any other options? My Mk1 has the stock 260 with the LAT 1 Induction
> set
> up,
> LAT 20 High Performance Camshaft and LAT 74 2" exhaust...no headers. It
> generates about 200+hp at the engine.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim Lindner
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5 at cox.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3522 - Release Date: 03/22/11
07:34:00

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Tue Mar 22 19:20:44 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 19:20:44 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Brake fittings/ Pikes Peak
In-Reply-To: <9514c13ba86b4891f0787bbba0a918ef@localhost>
References: <48977.4f787077.3aba23d3@aol.com> <4D8907E4.8000301@mayfco.com>
	<9514c13ba86b4891f0787bbba0a918ef@localhost>
Message-ID: <4D8958FC.6030906@mayfco.com>

I seem to remember one going much later than that through.

I'll do some digging...

mayf

On 3/22/2011 3:45 PM, Bob Dixon wrote:
> You guys are probably right.
>
> I received this from the Pikes Peak historian a couple of months ago:
>
> Dear Bob:
>
> Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I found one time that a
> Sunbeam raced Pikes Peak, that was in 1966 and it was driven by Ralph
> Bruning, it was listed as car # 1. It was in the Sports Car Class
> group 2:0-2000cc. It finished in fourth place out of five cars with a
> time of 19:18.3.
>
> David Bachoroski, President
> Pikes Peak Hill Climb Historical Assn.
>
>
> On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 13:34:44 -0700, Larry Mayfield<drmayf at mayfco.com>
> wrote:
>> I also seem to remember a Tiger competing at Pike Peak.  It was a
>> full on race car as I remember and did pretty well for he class. I
>> could be wrong. I haven't used up my quota for "being wrong" for March
>> yet, lol...
>>
>> mayf
>>
>> On 3/22/2011 9:09 AM, TIGEROOTES at aol.com wrote:
>>> In a message dated 3/21/2011 10:13:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>>> bobdixon at frii.com writes:
>>>
>>>> PS The Tiger was accepted into Vintage Division of the 2011 Pikes Peak
>>>> Hill Climb!! I got my requested number '86'.  It will be the first Tiger
>>>> to
>>>> ever compete in the 2nd oldest race in the country.  Pikes Peak or Bust
>>>> 2011
>>>> ---------------------------------------
>>>> In around 1985-86 a Tiger competed at Pike's Peak.  The owner was way up
>>>> in SCCA, Denver (the hive) and his first name was Jim and I am pretty sure
>>>> his car was black.  He was a founding member of VR, the California based
>>>> Vintage Racing club, now long gone and I met him at the first Tacoma Grand
>>>> Prix race at the swimming pool: a bunch of us were dangling our feet in the
>>>> pool and talking 'old-times' .  Sir Jack Brabham's stories were fantastic,
>>>> including the saga of his Sunbeam Rapier.
>>> Do to Sir Jack's stories at the pool, "Jim" personally pushed SCCA to
>>> accept Sunbeam Rapier as a recognized Vintage Racing car with their organization:
>>> I have the acceptance/homolagation paperwork with "Jim's" signature
>>> somewhere and I'll look for it to get his last name.
>>>
>>>> Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club     Seattle
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobdixon at frii.com

From terrytoolman at gmail.com  Tue Mar 22 20:03:56 2011
From: terrytoolman at gmail.com (TERRY MORRIS)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 20:03:56 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
Message-ID: <AANLkTimDsrx7KESLoNGpH_oq7hinDNPD+UzeA=+awvmi@mail.gmail.com>

I worked for a Industrial floor coating company for over 22 years if
you have a moister problem in your concrete and you coat over it the
coating will blister and peel. There are coatings that seal the
concrete like Koaster will prevent this, but you have to shotblast the
floor first.Then you can apply any epoxy or urethane. My garage has
been polished, sealed and stained oil wipes right off and doesn't
stain. If you think you have a moister problem you should do a moister
test.  They have kits that have a 1 x 1 plastic cover that sticks down
to the floor that contains a petri dish that contains calcium chloride
I believe that sucks up the moister in that area for 24hrs then you
weigh it and you use a formula to see how much vapor is being released
per sq ft. you can't coat anything over 3 lbs per sq ft.

From awtiger at cox.net  Wed Mar 23 20:16:37 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger)
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 22:16:37 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <30bda.1943eb3e.3aba948e@aol.com>
References: <30bda.1943eb3e.3aba948e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B9D661D34B04B568A66C7EC683B1D0A@awtigerPC>

Mark:

The prep before applying epoxy paint is the worst part of the job.  You not 
only have to clean any residue off the floor caused by oil and the like, but 
you also have to acid-etch the surface to provide something for the paint to 
actually stick to.  Both of the buildings I have applied that in have had 
new slabs, so oil and contaminant removal was not a problem.  However, I had 
to acid-etch both floors prior to appication.  If you don't do that, you 
greatly decrease your chances of the paint sticking to the floor.

I would highly recommend to anyone putting down an epoxy floor coating to 
have at least one buddy there to help you with the process.  Depending upon 
how big your shop is, you could be extremely busy doing it all yourself.  I 
did mine myself but I worked my butt off doing it and I wished I'd had help.

Take care,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

From fordlandia at sbcglobal.net  Tue Mar 22 20:39:19 2011
From: fordlandia at sbcglobal.net (Bill Waite)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 20:39:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <4D892F3B.1040603@cthompson.net>
Message-ID: <804601.4041.qm@web82701.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Chris...

My heater is a Reznor VENTED (through the roof) gas heater... not unvented. 
The unvented type add moisture (plus... the carbon monoxide part doesn't
surprise me either).

Regards,

Bill

--- On Tue, 3/22/11, Chris Thompson <chris at cthompson.net> wrote:

From: Chris Thompson <chris at cthompson.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers]  garage floor coatings
To: "Bill Waite" <fordlandia at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, March 22, 2011, 7:22 PM

Ditto here.  About 10 years ago built my dream garage at the time - a 3-car
with a lift.  Used Ben Moore's best 2-part epoxy, and have been very pleased. 
I'm sure if I scrubbed or pressure washed it right now, it would look like
new.

Am building my new dream car garage at the new house - an 8 car garage with 3
lifts.  Considered briefly putting down porcelain tile, but have gone back to
2-part epoxy.

But of course, if you haven't poured your pad yet, absolutely put down a
couple layers of plastic just before the pour.  And then, like Bill, I run a
dehumidifier in the summer.  I use heat pumps in the winter in the new garage,
as they do a great job of getting rid of the moisture, too.

Bill's unvented gas heaters will add moisture to the air in the winter, and
would be interested to hear why you might want to do that.  In the current
garage, I started with that, too (cheapest heat).  After about 2 years I
thought to put in a carbon monoxide alarm.  It went off right away - I thought
it was broken.  Obviously, that wasn't the problem.  I immediately took out
that heater and put in a vented gas furnace.  I spent a lot of time in the
garage those first couple of winters and in retrospect thought that the CO
really had been negatively effecting me.  Wouldn't recommend it myself for
health or humidity.  But it seems to working ok for Bill.

Chris

On 3/22/2011 5:50 PM, Bill Waite wrote:
> Peter,
>
> About 6 years ago I built my "dream" garage here in Michigan where humidity
> and heating are issues.  I've had very good luck with 2-part epoxy floor
paint
> (bulletproof in my experience).  Where I really spent time, however, is in
> insulating the walls and ceilings, lots of soffit vents, plus I added a
Reznor
> ceiling mounted gas heater (vented through the roof) and a "attic fan" that
> kicks on at high temps in the summer.  .  The "un-vented" heaters can add
> moisture (or at least that is what I was told at the time).  I also
purchased
> a really good dehumidifier and have it at a medium setting year round. 
Runs
> only when it needs to.  That combination (great insulation, venting,
heater,
> fan and dehumidifier) keeps everything very cool in the summer, warm in the
> winter and dry all year.
>
> Last May I had our '65 356C Porsche coupe (owned since 1975) media blasted
and
> have been working on the metal work ever since.  The body is blasted
bare...
> and not a spec of spot rust has appeared.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bill Waite
> Grand Rapids, MI

From twojohnsons at cox.net  Wed Mar 23 06:19:58 2011
From: twojohnsons at cox.net (Alvin Johnson)
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 08:19:58 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings---how to?
References: <AANLkTimDsrx7KESLoNGpH_oq7hinDNPD+UzeA=+awvmi@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <81AFC7B5296E4BEEA6FD1D4F036051A9@3bfd27b5ca44402>

All I have is a humble unheated 2-car garage, but I would still like to 
epoxy-coat the floor. Problem is, I've got so much stuff in there, I can't 
empty it out while I do the job---so I wonder if I could do it in two parts.
    Like so----First, haul all the stuff over to one side, coat the floor 
and wait for it to dry/cure. Then haul the stuff over onto the completed 
side and coat the remaining floor. Would this work or would it leave a seam 
that would look like s__t forevermore????

From awtiger at cox.net  Wed Mar 23 09:01:45 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 12:01:45 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings---how to?
In-Reply-To: <81AFC7B5296E4BEEA6FD1D4F036051A9@3bfd27b5ca44402>
Message-ID: <20110323120145.O4X0A.157435.imail@eastrmwml37>

Alvin:

You could certainly do it like that.  Does your garage floor have expansion joints cut into it?  If so, just use that as a "seam," so to speak.  If not, you might have to just lightly sand the new paint on the "done" side and just do a little overlapping when you paint the other side.  It shouldn't leave too much of a seam.  I guess the real question that you need to ask yourself is, "Will it look better with a paint seam than it does the way it is now???"

Best of luck
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Wed Mar 23 10:28:45 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 12:28:45 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <780249D1F1524D439D152F0B8A0A5BEE@awtigerPC>
References: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<780249D1F1524D439D152F0B8A0A5BEE@awtigerPC>
Message-ID: <000c01cbe97f$c3675a80$4a360f80$@rr.com>

Great news Andy,

When are you having a garage warming party?

Duke

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of awtiger
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 6:42 PM
To: Bill Waite; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] garage floor coatings

Hey, guys:

I've got to chime in here as well.  I've just finished my 1,200 sq ft shop 
and, like my older smaller one, I have it fixed up like a museum.  I collect

old automotive-related signs and stuff like that, so I wanted a really nice 
place in which to hang them, plus store and work on my cars.  It's gas 
heated, just like my old one and I'll probably put a dehumidifier in there 
as well, just like my old one.  I've had no moisture issues with that set up

in my old shop, and Oklahoma is well known for it's summer humidity.

Now, as far as the floor is concerned, this time around I used U-Coat-It on 
the floor, which is a two-part epoxy system.  I made sure to prep the floor 
(new slab) per U-Coat-It's instructions, even speaking to them on the phone 
a couple of times during the project.  I have no problems with the epoxy 
paint; it appears to be fine.  However, this time, I wanted to get a gloss 
coat on the floor, and to that end I used their clear coat product.  Once 
again, it was put down to the letter of their instructions and the results 
look fantastic.  It also repels oil and other chemicals very handily.

However...and this is a big however...I found out very quickly that the 
clear coat scratches at the slightest provocation.  My engine hoist with 
it's metal wheels promptly left it's mark, as did my engine stand, neither 
one with any weight on them.  Then, a friend of mine tracked in a piece of 
gravel in his shoe treads and scratched it again.  Needless to say, if you 
plan to do any serious work in your shop, stay the heck away from the clear 
coat.  I plan to do some restoration work in the work bay of my shop and I'm

either going to have to refinish the floor after every project or put down 
Race Deck or an equivalent product to protect the floor (at a much greater 
expense, I might add...).

Hope this helps you,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From dave at munroe.ca  Wed Mar 23 16:50:58 2011
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 20:50:58 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <C2C70234311244C29A9861090E0EEC0A@student2>
References: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<C2C70234311244C29A9861090E0EEC0A@student2>
Message-ID: <94A068ACF5DB44F8A3319CE421BC369A@DavePC>

Hi Tom:

You asked:

"Not trying to get off the subject but..., just how much does it cost to 
heat
a garage in these cold climates??? I've been 40 years in So. Cal. where may
be it gets to the high 30's  (nights) and typically 58-64 (days) during our
short winters and the cost would still seem astronomical. I would think in a
cold climate you would have to pre-heat before you could even use the room
(further increasing the cost)."

So far you haven't had a lot of specific response. Therefore, although it is 
likely there is no comparison possible between the weather in SoCal and Nova 
Scotia, I have a 1500 sq ft garage on two floors with a "man cave" upstairs. 
Fully insulated all around and with 2" of rigid foam under the concrete 
floor and covered with 6 mil plastic vapor barrier, its heated with a 
propane-fired hot air furnace. I keep it idling along at about 45F when I'm 
not in there, with the hot air quickly bringing the place up to 68-70F in 
about 10 minutes after I get through the door. The furnace has a completely 
isolated firebox, fed by outside air to burn the gas, and exhausted directly 
out through a chimney pipe. Its perfect for a garage full of combustible 
chemicals, as you could pour gasoline over it (not recommended!)and it 
wouldn't/couldn't catch fire.

Here in Nova Scotia liquid propane is sold by the liter at approx 98c per, 
for a total average cost per year of ~$1750.

So what DOES it cost in SoCal?

Dave



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] garage floor coatings


> The previous owner of my home was a machinist.  Apparently machining 
> coolant makes an excellent barrier. Water puddles and even when warm sits 
> there for quite some time.

From awtiger at cox.net  Thu Mar 24 20:14:33 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 22:14:33 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <000c01cbe97f$c3675a80$4a360f80$@rr.com>
References: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<780249D1F1524D439D152F0B8A0A5BEE@awtigerPC>
	<000c01cbe97f$c3675a80$4a360f80$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <C3634768D46842AF9A8345B2A7533D11@awtigerPC>

Duke:

When's the garage-warming party?  As soon as you get here, dude!  You know 
the way!!!

Andy

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Samouce's" <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
To: "'awtiger'" <awtiger at cox.net>; "'Bill Waite'" 
<fordlandia at sbcglobal.net>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 12:28 PM
Subject: RE: [Tigers] garage floor coatings


> Great news Andy,
>
> When are you having a garage warming party?
>
> Duke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of awtiger
> Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 6:42 PM
> To: Bill Waite; tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
>
> Hey, guys:
>
> I've got to chime in here as well.  I've just finished my 1,200 sq ft shop
> and, like my older smaller one, I have it fixed up like a museum.  I 
> collect
>
> old automotive-related signs and stuff like that, so I wanted a really 
> nice
> place in which to hang them, plus store and work on my cars.  It's gas
> heated, just like my old one and I'll probably put a dehumidifier in there
> as well, just like my old one.  I've had no moisture issues with that set 
> up
>
> in my old shop, and Oklahoma is well known for it's summer humidity.
>
> Now, as far as the floor is concerned, this time around I used U-Coat-It 
> on
> the floor, which is a two-part epoxy system.  I made sure to prep the 
> floor
> (new slab) per U-Coat-It's instructions, even speaking to them on the 
> phone
> a couple of times during the project.  I have no problems with the epoxy
> paint; it appears to be fine.  However, this time, I wanted to get a gloss
> coat on the floor, and to that end I used their clear coat product.  Once
> again, it was put down to the letter of their instructions and the results
> look fantastic.  It also repels oil and other chemicals very handily.
>
> However...and this is a big however...I found out very quickly that the
> clear coat scratches at the slightest provocation.  My engine hoist with
> it's metal wheels promptly left it's mark, as did my engine stand, neither
> one with any weight on them.  Then, a friend of mine tracked in a piece of
> gravel in his shoe treads and scratched it again.  Needless to say, if you
> plan to do any serious work in your shop, stay the heck away from the 
> clear
> coat.  I plan to do some restoration work in the work bay of my shop and 
> I'm
>
> either going to have to refinish the floor after every project or put down
> Race Deck or an equivalent product to protect the floor (at a much greater
> expense, I might add...).
>
> Hope this helps you,
> Andy Walker
> Edmond, OK
> B382001600LRXFE
> TAC #740
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Thu Mar 24 04:11:01 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 06:11:01 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <C3634768D46842AF9A8345B2A7533D11@awtigerPC>
References: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<780249D1F1524D439D152F0B8A0A5BEE@awtigerPC>
	<000c01cbe97f$c3675a80$4a360f80$@rr.com>
	<C3634768D46842AF9A8345B2A7533D11@awtigerPC>
Message-ID: <000701cbea14$294dc840$7be958c0$@rr.com>

Once extra Tiger a party does not make.

Duke

-----Original Message-----
From: awtiger [mailto:awtiger at cox.net] 
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 10:15 PM
To: Samouce's; 'Bill Waite'; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] garage floor coatings

Duke:

When's the garage-warming party?  As soon as you get here, dude!  You know 
the way!!!

Andy

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Samouce's" <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
To: "'awtiger'" <awtiger at cox.net>; "'Bill Waite'" 
<fordlandia at sbcglobal.net>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 12:28 PM
Subject: RE: [Tigers] garage floor coatings


> Great news Andy,
>
> When are you having a garage warming party?
>
> Duke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of awtiger
> Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 6:42 PM
> To: Bill Waite; tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
>
> Hey, guys:
>
> I've got to chime in here as well.  I've just finished my 1,200 sq ft shop
> and, like my older smaller one, I have it fixed up like a museum.  I 
> collect
>
> old automotive-related signs and stuff like that, so I wanted a really 
> nice
> place in which to hang them, plus store and work on my cars.  It's gas
> heated, just like my old one and I'll probably put a dehumidifier in there
> as well, just like my old one.  I've had no moisture issues with that set 
> up
>
> in my old shop, and Oklahoma is well known for it's summer humidity.
>
> Now, as far as the floor is concerned, this time around I used U-Coat-It 
> on
> the floor, which is a two-part epoxy system.  I made sure to prep the 
> floor
> (new slab) per U-Coat-It's instructions, even speaking to them on the 
> phone
> a couple of times during the project.  I have no problems with the epoxy
> paint; it appears to be fine.  However, this time, I wanted to get a gloss
> coat on the floor, and to that end I used their clear coat product.  Once
> again, it was put down to the letter of their instructions and the results
> look fantastic.  It also repels oil and other chemicals very handily.
>
> However...and this is a big however...I found out very quickly that the
> clear coat scratches at the slightest provocation.  My engine hoist with
> it's metal wheels promptly left it's mark, as did my engine stand, neither
> one with any weight on them.  Then, a friend of mine tracked in a piece of
> gravel in his shoe treads and scratched it again.  Needless to say, if you
> plan to do any serious work in your shop, stay the heck away from the 
> clear
> coat.  I plan to do some restoration work in the work bay of my shop and 
> I'm
>
> either going to have to refinish the floor after every project or put down
> Race Deck or an equivalent product to protect the floor (at a much greater
> expense, I might add...).
>
> Hope this helps you,
> Andy Walker
> Edmond, OK
> B382001600LRXFE
> TAC #740
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From jmartiniii at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 24 05:42:50 2011
From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 05:42:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Axel
Message-ID: <999225.9506.qm@web38104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

All
What is the secret for removing the rear axels for replacing bearings and
seals?  I got the 3 seals from SS and should have gotten the bearings/races
but 
did not.  Is there a part number that anyone knows for purchasing
locally?

Thanks
Joel Martin
MK1A - ready for paint when the spray booth
becomes operational

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Thu Mar 24 06:57:48 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 8:57:48 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Axel
In-Reply-To: <999225.9506.qm@web38104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20110324135748.PJZ2T.2382.root@hrndva-web26-z02>

Check out the thread below - 
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13968

I believe I got the bearings from SS.  I can check the numbers on the box at lunch.

Duke
B382002037 



---- Joel Martin <jmartiniii at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> All
> What is the secret for removing the rear axels for replacing bearings and
> seals?  I got the 3 seals from SS and should have gotten the bearings/races
> but 
> did not.  Is there a part number that anyone knows for purchasing
> locally?
> 
> Thanks
> Joel Martin
> MK1A - ready for paint when the spray booth
> becomes operational
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Thu Mar 24 08:10:37 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 11:10:37 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] oil
Message-ID: <34C30646-01C1-43C3-847F-7954A2B6B02B@gmail.com>

anyone know a good place online to buy discount quality engine oil, gear oil
etc?

From cars at wt-inc.com  Thu Mar 24 08:21:35 2011
From: cars at wt-inc.com (Cars)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 08:21:35 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
In-Reply-To: <94A068ACF5DB44F8A3319CE421BC369A@DavePC>
References: <319121.93766.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<C2C70234311244C29A9861090E0EEC0A@student2>
	<94A068ACF5DB44F8A3319CE421BC369A@DavePC>
Message-ID: <001301cbea37$29ca8470$7d5f8d50$@com>

I have 900 square foot shop in the basement of my house.  2" rigid foam
below concrete with in-floor radiant heat.  I keep it at 68-70 year round
although the heater never comes on in the summer.  I live at 6500 foot
elevation and am ecstatic that the snow just melted down below 6' deep.

How much does it cost to heat????  Who cares, having a heated shop in the
winter here is priceless.  I am the envy of everyone in my neighborhood.

Seriously though back to your question, how much does it cost to heat???
Who cares, having a heated shop in the winter here is priceless and cheaper
than therapy.

Lynn

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Munroe
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 4:51 PM
To: Thomas Witt; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] garage floor coatings

Hi Tom:

You asked:

"Not trying to get off the subject but..., just how much does it cost to 
heat
a garage in these cold climates??? I've been 40 years in So. Cal. where may
be it gets to the high 30's  (nights) and typically 58-64 (days) during our
short winters and the cost would still seem astronomical. I would think in a
cold climate you would have to pre-heat before you could even use the room
(further increasing the cost)."

So far you haven't had a lot of specific response. Therefore, although it is

likely there is no comparison possible between the weather in SoCal and Nova

Scotia, I have a 1500 sq ft garage on two floors with a "man cave" upstairs.

Fully insulated all around and with 2" of rigid foam under the concrete 
floor and covered with 6 mil plastic vapor barrier, its heated with a 
propane-fired hot air furnace. I keep it idling along at about 45F when I'm 
not in there, with the hot air quickly bringing the place up to 68-70F in 
about 10 minutes after I get through the door. The furnace has a completely 
isolated firebox, fed by outside air to burn the gas, and exhausted directly

out through a chimney pipe. Its perfect for a garage full of combustible 
chemicals, as you could pour gasoline over it (not recommended!)and it 
wouldn't/couldn't catch fire.

Here in Nova Scotia liquid propane is sold by the liter at approx 98c per, 
for a total average cost per year of ~$1750.

So what DOES it cost in SoCal?

Dave



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] garage floor coatings


> The previous owner of my home was a machinist.  Apparently machining 
> coolant makes an excellent barrier. Water puddles and even when warm sits 
> there for quite some time.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cars at wt-inc.com

From CoolVT at aol.com  Thu Mar 24 09:11:17 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:11:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] garage floor coatings
Message-ID: <dc077.30443b1b.3abcc725@aol.com>

If you heat your basement look at it this way....90% of the heat loss is  
through the ceiling. In your case the escaping heat is going into your house  
above and cutting the house heating cost by an equal amount.  So, I doubt  
that heating your basement is costing much.  Plus, if you have plumbing in  
the basement, you almost need some kind of heat to prevent water  
freeze-ups.  Anyway, that's what you should be telling your spouse if  necessary;-) 
Enjoy!
M
 
 
In a message dated 3/24/2011 12:04:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cars at wt-inc.com writes:

I have  900 square foot shop in the basement of my house.  2" rigid foam
below  concrete with in-floor radiant heat.  I keep it at 68-70 year  round
although the heater never comes on in the summer.  I live at  6500 foot
elevation and am ecstatic that the snow just melted down below 6'  deep.

How much does it cost to heat????  Who cares, having a  heated shop in the
winter here is priceless.  I am the envy of  everyone in my neighborhood.

Seriously though back to your question,  how much does it cost to heat???
Who cares, having a heated shop in the  winter here is priceless and cheaper
than  therapy.

Lynn

-----Original Message-----
From:  tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On  Behalf Of Dave Munroe
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 4:51 PM
To: Thomas  Witt; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] garage floor  coatings

Hi Tom:

You asked:

"Not trying to get off the  subject but..., just how much does it cost to 
heat
a garage in these  cold climates??? I've been 40 years in So. Cal. where may
be it gets to the  high 30's  (nights) and typically 58-64 (days) during our
short  winters and the cost would still seem astronomical. I would think in 
a
cold  climate you would have to pre-heat before you could even use the  room
(further increasing the cost)."

So far you haven't had a lot of  specific response. Therefore, although it 
is

likely there is no  comparison possible between the weather in SoCal and 
Nova

Scotia, I  have a 1500 sq ft garage on two floors with a "man cave"  
upstairs.

Fully insulated all around and with 2" of rigid foam under  the concrete 
floor and covered with 6 mil plastic vapor barrier, its  heated with a 
propane-fired hot air furnace. I keep it idling along at  about 45F when 
I'm 
not in there, with the hot air quickly bringing the  place up to 68-70F in 
about 10 minutes after I get through the door. The  furnace has a 
completely 
isolated firebox, fed by outside air to burn the  gas, and exhausted 
directly

out through a chimney pipe. Its perfect for  a garage full of combustible 
chemicals, as you could pour gasoline over it  (not recommended!)and it 
wouldn't/couldn't catch fire.

Here in Nova  Scotia liquid propane is sold by the liter at approx 98c per, 
for a total  average cost per year of ~$1750.

So what DOES it cost in  SoCal?

Dave



----- Original Message ----- 
From:  "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>
To:  <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 8:26  PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] garage floor coatings


> The previous  owner of my home was a machinist.  Apparently machining 
> coolant  makes an excellent barrier. Water puddles and even when warm 
sits 
>  there for quite some  time.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cars at wt-inc.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Thu Mar 24 10:21:50 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 10:21:50 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Axel
References: <999225.9506.qm@web38104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1297E5ADA47540D4A720317FC801B449@student2>

Joel,

  I hope it goes well for you. But, if it doesn't know you are not the only 
one.
Tom

http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/WittResto101/rt-WittResto101D.asp 

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Thu Mar 24 10:37:20 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:37:20 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Axel
In-Reply-To: <999225.9506.qm@web38104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <999225.9506.qm@web38104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000301cbea4a$21a14e10$64e3ea30$@rr.com>

TIMKEN part # 14130

Duke
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 7:43 AM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Axel

All
What is the secret for removing the rear axels for replacing bearings and
seals?  I got the 3 seals from SS and should have gotten the bearings/races
but 
did not.  Is there a part number that anyone knows for purchasing
locally?

Thanks
Joel Martin
MK1A - ready for paint when the spray booth
becomes operational
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Thu Mar 24 10:50:45 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:50:45 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Axel
In-Reply-To: <999225.9506.qm@web38104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <999225.9506.qm@web38104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbea4c$008c2630$01a47290$@rr.com>

The race is Timken #14276.  Got this off of the original part.

Duke
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 7:43 AM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Axel

All
What is the secret for removing the rear axels for replacing bearings and
seals?  I got the 3 seals from SS and should have gotten the bearings/races
but 
did not.  Is there a part number that anyone knows for purchasing
locally?

Thanks
Joel Martin
MK1A - ready for paint when the spray booth
becomes operational
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com  Thu Mar 24 13:46:51 2011
From: bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com (bob webb)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 16:46:51 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] oil
References: <34C30646-01C1-43C3-847F-7954A2B6B02B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D8999CBC551B4B84941A3A9B289DE9D3@yourze8cxvr8tt>

the major lubricant companies have raised cost two times since 02/28 and 
another increase is coming 04/18 so just go to your local discount store and 
buy your lubes. you'll find that their selling price is a small markup or 
sometimes at cost. unless you are looking for something special.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Owain Lloyd" <owain.lloyd at gmail.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 11:10 AM
Subject: [Tigers] oil


> anyone know a good place online to buy discount quality engine oil, gear 
> oil
> etc?
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Thu Mar 24 19:25:30 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 21:25:30 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Throwout Bearing
In-Reply-To: <1297E5ADA47540D4A720317FC801B449@student2>
References: <999225.9506.qm@web38104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<1297E5ADA47540D4A720317FC801B449@student2>
Message-ID: <000001cbea93$e9b13cf0$bd13b6d0$@rr.com>

I ordered a "Heavy Duty" TOB from a Mustang supplier.  It is much "heavier"
that the TOB I removed from the Tiger.

My only concern is the larger diameter and use with the Centerforce pressure
plate.  See pictures and let me know what you think.

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/ThrowoutBear
ing.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/005-1.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/004.jpg

TIA!

Duke
B382002037

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Mar 25 05:49:07 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 08:49:07 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Throwout Bearing
In-Reply-To: <000001cbea93$e9b13cf0$bd13b6d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <D2393D43E8C24B0184372DF09ADE2663@ronpc1>

Duke
	I would contact Centerforce to see if they know if that TOB will
work with their parts.   It almost looks like there could be an interference
problem but that is judging from the pictures.

Hopefully someone has used this combination and will send a note.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 10:26 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Throwout Bearing


I ordered a "Heavy Duty" TOB from a Mustang supplier.  It is much "heavier"
that the TOB I removed from the Tiger.

My only concern is the larger diameter and use with the Centerforce pressure
plate.  See pictures and let me know what you think.

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/ThrowoutBear
ing.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/005-1.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/004.jpg

TIA!

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3526 - Release Date: 03/24/11
07:34:00

From Carmods at aol.com  Fri Mar 25 06:36:23 2011
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 09:36:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Throwout Bearing
Message-ID: <17bcb.7194f29c.3abdf457@aol.com>

Duke,
 
>From your pictures, it looks like that bearing will work. The smaller  
original Tiger bearing ran with a clearance when the clutch was engaged so that  
it wouldn't wear out. The Mustang bearing is designed to run continuously 
with  about 10 lb of preload. That is enough pressure to keep it from 
slipping on the  fingers but not enough to cause it to wear out.  This was done to  
reduce petal travel and allow the self adjusting mechanism of the Mustang  
to work. 
 
 
In a message dated 3/24/2011 11:02:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wsamouce at kc.rr.com writes:

I ordered a "Heavy Duty" TOB from a Mustang supplier.  It is  much 
"heavier" that the TOB
 I removed from the Tiger.My only concern is the  larger diameter and use 
with the Centerforce pressure  plate.

From spmdr at juno.com  Fri Mar 25 09:47:25 2011
From: spmdr at juno.com (spmdr at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 09:47:25 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] rear axle bearings
Message-ID: <20110325.094726.2488.0.spmdr@juno.com>

It's been awhile, but I think there are at least 3 bearings you COULD use
on the rear axle shaft!

..at least two, 14130 and 14130X

and maybe a 14131?

14130X being the correct part?

And the differences are the radius of the bearing where it goes against
the axle shaft shoulder or lip.

The problem comes in with axle end play, it changes if you use the wrong
/ different bearing.

Beware!

DW
____________________________________________________________
Groupon&#8482 Official Site
1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city&#39;s best!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d8cc7672a22543af9m07vuc

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Fri Mar 25 10:08:51 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 12:08:51 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Throwout Bearing
In-Reply-To: <D2393D43E8C24B0184372DF09ADE2663@ronpc1>
References: <000001cbea93$e9b13cf0$bd13b6d0$@rr.com>
	<D2393D43E8C24B0184372DF09ADE2663@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <001f01cbeb0f$50d675a0$f28360e0$@rr.com>

Thanks to all that responded.  I had several who said "no" and several who
think it will work.  I did email Centerforce and they responded "The face
diameter of our throw out bearing measures 2 > if your throw out bearing
measures the same I dont foresee a problem".   The TOB in question is 1/16
larger across.....so I am going with it.  The ability to be in contact with
the fingers and not wear is a big bonus.  I may use a spring anyway though.

A interesting note: McLeod RACING sells a TOB with a grease fitting for 2X
the cost and it look exactly the same.  See here -
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mcl-16031_w.jpg

Thanks!

Duke
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Fraser [mailto:rfraser at bluefrog.com]
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:49 AM
To: 'Samouce's'; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Throwout Bearing

Duke
	I would contact Centerforce to see if they know if that TOB will
work with their parts.   It almost looks like there could be an interference
problem but that is judging from the pictures.

Hopefully someone has used this combination and will send a note.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 10:26 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Throwout Bearing


I ordered a "Heavy Duty" TOB from a Mustang supplier.  It is much "heavier"
that the TOB I removed from the Tiger.

My only concern is the larger diameter and use with the Centerforce pressure
plate.  See pictures and let me know what you think.

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/ThrowoutBear
ing.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/005-1.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/004.jpg

TIA!

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3526 - Release Date: 03/24/11
07:34:00

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Mar 25 10:40:48 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 12:40:48 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?rear_axle_bearings?=
Message-ID: <20110325174038.1DEAD187650@autox.team.net>

You know, I think I have a bunch of nos bearings and seals in my pile of parts. Maybe I should thin the herd a little. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: spmdr at juno.com
Date: Fri, Mar 25, 2011 11:47
Subject: [Tigers] rear axle bearings
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>

It's been awhile, but I think there are at least 3 bearings you COULD use
on the rear axle shaft!

...at least two, 14130 and 14130X

and maybe a 14131?

14130X being the correct part?

And the differences are the radius of the bearing where it goes against
the axle shaft shoulder or lip.

The problem comes in with axle end play, it changes if you use the wrong
/ different bearing.

Beware!

DW
____________________________________________________________
Groupon&#8482 Official Site
1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city&#39;s best!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d8cc7672a22543af9m07vuc
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net

From dave at munroe.ca  Fri Mar 25 11:36:16 2011
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:36:16 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] Throwout Bearing
In-Reply-To: <001f01cbeb0f$50d675a0$f28360e0$@rr.com>
References: <000001cbea93$e9b13cf0$bd13b6d0$@rr.com><D2393D43E8C24B0184372DF09ADE2663@ronpc1>
	<001f01cbeb0f$50d675a0$f28360e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <FF7BAAAF08124B4D94C32B157A79C0C3@DavePC>

Duke:

I have that TOB on my Centerforce ll clutch, and the grease nipple is
accessible through the clutch throw-out arm hole in the housing. It's a sturdy
unit.

Dave


----- Original Message -----
From: "Samouce's" <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Throwout Bearing


> A interesting note: McLeod RACING sells a TOB with a grease fitting for 2X
> the cost and it look exactly the same.  See here -
> http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mcl-16031_w.jpg
>
> Thanks!
>
> Duke
> B382002037

From Carmods at aol.com  Sat Mar 26 07:12:28 2011
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 10:12:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Throwout Bearing
Message-ID: <8079.537f95b8.3abf4e4c@aol.com>

Hi Duke, 
 
To get the correct 10 lb preload on the throwout  bearing when the clutch 
is engaged, divide 10lb by the throwout arm  ratio and select a spring that 
will provide that force when the clutch is  engaged and also stretch to the 
full length without taking a set when the  clutch is fully disengaged. 
 
John Logan


 
 
In a message dated 3/25/2011 2:00:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wsamouce at kc.rr.com writes:

I may use a spring anyway though.

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Sat Mar 26 13:24:34 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 20:24:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: SU fuel pump to fuel line connectors
In-Reply-To: <12097831.3116041.1301170885715.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1292565692.3116154.1301171074120.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello all, I am new to the list and probably should introduce myself before
diving into the question.B 



I am an original Tiger owner from 1967.B B  Factory LAT fiberglass hood.B B 
MediterraneanB  Blue, original paint except for right frontB fender 10 years
ago.B  A bit in need of a respray.B  Polishes up presentably for the most
part.B B  A redneck type guy in asking about that not longB  agoB commented
that yes it was looking pretty faded.B B  In contrast, last year an English
chap commented that it had a very nice patina!B B  Consider the source.B B 
Anyway, IB have the original 260 and close ratio toploader about to be
replaced with a .030 over rebuilt 6 bolt 289 and wide ratio trans.B  Got the
bell housing and clutch slave cylinder bracket issues all sorted out.B 
Putting in a Hurst shifter while I am at it.B  LSD and 2:72 gears in back
(wanted a bit of overdrive effect for 4th).B B  Curious feature is that the
car came from the dealer with Tiger II seats.B  Car purchased in October 1967,
but VinB is a relatively low 1447 number.B B  I suspected something a bit
amiss when the car was also delivered with speedo disconnected.B B  But I was
happy to get it.B  Still am!



Anyway, to the question.B  A friend recently bought a Mark 1A and is looking
to go back to a SU fuel pump to replace the noisy Holley the PO put in the
Tiger II trunk position.B B  He has belatedly discovered the SU pump -to- fuel
line fittings are not AN and suspects they must be BSP.B B  Anyone know for
sure what they are and where you can get them?B B 



There is a set on ebay as we speak, but he may not prevail in the auction.B  I
have looked at Moss Motors but did not find the fittings.B  They do sell some
sort of adapter rubber line kit in the Austin Healey section for lines that
have been hacked, but the rubber lines are only 1/4 inch diameter.B B  My
friend is running a rebuilt 260 with an Edelbrock f4bB and a 465cfm or so
Holley.B  Anyway the delivery rates on the SU should be fine for his purposes,
and the pump infinitely quieter.B  (Except for the, to some, pleasantly
reassuring ticking..)



Any ideas on where, other than ebay, he can get the fittings he needs?



Thanks, Gene

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Sat Mar 26 17:24:57 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 00:24:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Hurst Competition Plus Install Kit
In-Reply-To: <108680340.3123680.1301185480507.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1541331403.3123693.1301185497511.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Owen, the kit needed to install the competition plus shifter is Hurst part
number 3733167, long out of production.B  The shifter mounting plate and
linkage are all totally different from stock.B B  I was surprised to see one
on ebay recently.B B  It went for $230-$240 if I call correctly.



You might check with David Kee Toploader Transmissions to see if he can
help.B B  His web site mentions these shifters.



I actually have an incomplete extra kit.B B B It is complete except it came
with the wrong reverseB rod which I did not discover until too late to do
anything about it.B B  I periodicallyB look for one on ebay and see one ever
so often in a large collection of other rods that usually go for way too much
money for the one rod I would want.B B  Cannot get it from Hurst, Summit,
Jegs, etc.B B B  Given reverse is not used all that much, I have had a go or
two at fabricating one, but have not done so to my satisfaction.B B  Long
story short, if I ever get one made to my satisfaction, or find aB Hurst
madeB reverse rod, I could make anB install kit available to whomever wants
it.



Gene

From jeff.holt7 at gmail.com  Sun Mar 27 07:03:20 2011
From: jeff.holt7 at gmail.com (Jeff Holt)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 08:03:20 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Dropping the engine
Message-ID: <68080C5C-6BCA-4226-AD1D-D4C79DEC988A@gmail.com>

I decided to take the engine out from the bottom. I made a very nice low and
long dolly. I took out the radiator, carb and I think I'm all done in the
engine compartment. Pulled off the front wheels and crossmember (which I have
to do anyway, since I don't like the look of the LAT mags the car had.)

Now, can folks help me with a list of what to disconnect underneath and on the
transmission end? Fluids are out, too.

What is the support brace called that is just in front of the X frame?

Thanks,
Jeff Holt

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Sun Mar 27 07:23:28 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 10:23:28 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Dropping the engine
In-Reply-To: <68080C5C-6BCA-4226-AD1D-D4C79DEC988A@gmail.com>
References: <68080C5C-6BCA-4226-AD1D-D4C79DEC988A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikkSFVU3pa9LoR6Ez3uTpEmQTBUMHYkQcXLFqoc@mail.gmail.com>

undo transmission/gearbox mount (all 4 bolts),
removing the driveshaft makes it easier but isn't necessary,
disconnect speedo cable (one 7/16 retainer bolt),
remove shifter from inside the car (2 bolts)
remove headers and engine mount brackets,
disconnect clutch slave hose,
disconnect coolant temp sender,
disconnect distributor wires,
disconnect hoses to heater core,
undo engine ground strap,
disconnect starter motor,
remove fanbelt, fan and alternator/generator,
removing the distributor cap and rotor helps a little too.

drop engine a little and pull it forward out of the x frame.  drop it
futher, lift car a little more (i use the engine crane which is not longer
holding the engine to lift the car about another 6 inches of the axle
stands), roll engine forward and out.

i think that's it.

are you lowering the engine down onto the dolly with an engine crane
attached to the carb mount?


On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 10:03 AM, Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I decided to take the engine out from the bottom. I made a very nice low
> and
> long dolly. I took out the radiator, carb and I think I'm all done in the
> engine compartment. Pulled off the front wheels and crossmember (which I
> have
> to do anyway, since I don't like the look of the LAT mags the car had.)
>
> Now, can folks help me with a list of what to disconnect underneath and on
> the
> transmission end? Fluids are out, too.
>
> What is the support brace called that is just in front of the X frame?
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff Holt
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From gabbardalex at att.net  Sun Mar 27 07:44:57 2011
From: gabbardalex at att.net (Gabbard Gabbard)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 07:44:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] CAT headers part 2
In-Reply-To: <1541331403.3123693.1301185497511.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1541331403.3123693.1301185497511.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <789248.37394.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello all,
CAT headers Part 1 was the dyno tests described several months ago
(30+ hp gain 
over cast iron exhaust manifolds). 

Part 2: The original 289
for my Mk II (#328) from Part 1, with stock flywheel, 
Centerforce clutch and
pressure plate, mounted with the original Mk 
II toploader (rebuilt using a
wide bolt pattern main case -RUG A tag - because I 
could not find a narrow
bolt pattern 6-bolt bellhousing) went into the car 
yesterday. Three guys
installed the engine-trans assembly from underneath in 
about 2 hours, being
slow and careful not to scratch the new white paint. The 
headers cleared
everything but a tight fit, particularly the rear-most Alpine 
steering gear
bolt bracket on both frame rails, which I plan to remove to 
prevent engine
torque-over contact. The Jet-Hot coated headers were installed 
with copper
gaskets and Ford Motorsport locking header bolts and required no 
adjustments
or pipe indentions. 


The driver side header was installed and bolted tight
while the rider side was 
not fitted. Once the engine was in the engine bay,
the engine was raised 
slightly to allow room to slide the rider side header
in, then bolted in 
place. With headers installed, the engine was lowered a
few inches into place, 
mounts attached and bolted securely, although the 3
frame bolts through the 
inner fenders to the engine bracket had to be
loosened to install the rebuilt 
front cross member assembly. The trans
support and mount were also installed 
securely. A new, heftier drive shaft is
ready for installation. 


A port-a-power was used to spread the frame rails
about "half a hole" to permit 
installation of new bolts that were installed
and torqued.

This is the "Tiger found in a barn" you may have heard about.
It sat in pieces 
for over 30 years amid mice, straw, and spiders collecting
dust while various 
pieces got lost (including the original bellhousing). I
bought this Mk II in 
the mid-'70s showing about 17,000 miles on its odo, nice
sheet metal and paint, 
and drove it regularly until an unfortunate set of
circumstances led to it being 
stashed in the barn. A rotissarie restoration
over the last two years 
revealed the frame and floor pans were eaten with
rust, subsequently replaced 
with sheet and frame metal from a wrecked
Tiger.   

Fitting the engine and trans along with its rebuilt front
suspension, rebuilt 
rear end, good sheet metal and new paint is bring back a
no rust Mk II that most 
likely should have gone to the shredder. 

It been
more than 30 years since I've driven this Tiger and look forward to 
having it
ready for June Jaunt in Pigeon Forge, TN June 16-19. 

Alex Gabbard
All-Sunbeam June Jaunt 2011
 
Open to all British Marques
 
Where: Pigeon
Forge, TN
When: June 16-17-18-19, 2011 (Thur - Sun)
Location: Oak Tree Lodge
(B&B, on the main drag)
    $65/night + tax, 865-428-7500 (smoke free)
    Ask
for British Car Club Package
Reserved parking for cars, trucks & trailers
Catered Saturday lunch (burgers & dogs, $16/per)
Catered Saturday night dinner
($21/per, 5-7 pm)
Talk: Moonshine in the Mountains (7-8 pm)
Oldies dance
Saturday night (8-11 pm)
 
Registration fee: $40 per entrant at the Lodge
No
pre-registration
 
Tech sessions:
1. Thur 2 pm: building a 260 stroker
2. Thur
2 pm: Holman-Moody racing history
3. Fri 10 am: Building a toploader 4-spd
4.
Fri 10 am: body, paint & finish tips
5. Fri 2 pm: dyno tuning a 260 stroker
6.
Fri 2 pm: Tiger/Alpine tech info session
 
Activities:
1. Fri 11 am: tour to
lunch at an English pub
2. Sat 9 am: drive the Dragon mountain tour (day
trip) 
3. Sun 9 am: tour Floyd Garrett's auto museum
4. Pigeon Forge -
Gatlinburg: shows, shopping,
    Titanic, museums, car fun galore
 
Sponsored
by GPPress (GPPress at att.net) 

From jliny5 at cox.net  Sun Mar 27 08:31:14 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 11:31:14 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: SU fuel pump to fuel line connectors
In-Reply-To: <1292565692.3116154.1301171074120.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1292565692.3116154.1301171074120.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C2122F76FD8D4609BA33B919D44A9292@JPC>

Gene

I ordered a stock replacement SU pump for my Mk1 from Sunbeam Specialties 
just a few days ago. While Rick was walking me through the order he asked if 
the pump I was changing was anything other than the original type equipment. 
He added that if so I would the need the fittings, which I seem to recall he 
said he also had in stock. Give Sunbeam Specialties a call...I think they 
might have what you need.

Jim Lindner
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <genepadgett at comcast.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 4:24 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: SU fuel pump to fuel line connectors


> Hello all, I am new to the list and probably should introduce myself 
> before
> diving into the question.B
>
>
>
> I am an original Tiger owner from 1967.B B  Factory LAT fiberglass hood.B 
> B
> MediterraneanB  Blue, original paint except for right frontB fender 10 
> years
> ago.B  A bit in need of a respray.B  Polishes up presentably for the most
> part.B B  A redneck type guy in asking about that not longB  agoB 
> commented
> that yes it was looking pretty faded.B B  In contrast, last year an 
> English
> chap commented that it had a very nice patina!B B  Consider the source.B B
> Anyway, IB have the original 260 and close ratio toploader about to be
> replaced with a .030 over rebuilt 6 bolt 289 and wide ratio trans.B  Got 
> the
> bell housing and clutch slave cylinder bracket issues all sorted out.B
> Putting in a Hurst shifter while I am at it.B  LSD and 2:72 gears in back
> (wanted a bit of overdrive effect for 4th).B B  Curious feature is that 
> the
> car came from the dealer with Tiger II seats.B  Car purchased in October 
> 1967,
> but VinB is a relatively low 1447 number.B B  I suspected something a bit
> amiss when the car was also delivered with speedo disconnected.B B  But I 
> was
> happy to get it.B  Still am!
>
>
>
> Anyway, to the question.B  A friend recently bought a Mark 1A and is 
> looking
> to go back to a SU fuel pump to replace the noisy Holley the PO put in the
> Tiger II trunk position.B B  He has belatedly discovered the SU pump -to- 
> fuel
> line fittings are not AN and suspects they must be BSP.B B  Anyone know 
> for
> sure what they are and where you can get them?B B
>
>
>
> There is a set on ebay as we speak, but he may not prevail in the 
> auction.B  I
> have looked at Moss Motors but did not find the fittings.B  They do sell 
> some
> sort of adapter rubber line kit in the Austin Healey section for lines 
> that
> have been hacked, but the rubber lines are only 1/4 inch diameter.B B  My
> friend is running a rebuilt 260 with an Edelbrock f4bB and a 465cfm or so
> Holley.B  Anyway the delivery rates on the SU should be fine for his 
> purposes,
> and the pump infinitely quieter.B  (Except for the, to some, pleasantly
> reassuring ticking..)
>
>
>
> Any ideas on where, other than ebay, he can get the fittings he needs?
>
>
>
> Thanks, Gene
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5 at cox.net

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Sun Mar 27 08:39:42 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 15:39:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Dropping the engine
In-Reply-To: <1844844905.3142208.1301240312437.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <909257599.3142218.1301240382008.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Jeff, Owain has already posted an excellent list.B B  Although you mention you
are all done with the engine compartment, I just wanted to remind you about
the oil pressure line that runs from the front of the block driver's side to
your gauge in the dash.B B  Sometimes easily overlooked.



Also, I understand some people say remove the oil dipstick and tube for
additional working clearance on the passenger side and disconnect the steering
column on the driver's side from its mount and wire tie it to the side for
much the same reason.



Best regards,B  Gene




----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Holt" <jeff.holt7 at gmail.com>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:03:20 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Dropping the engine

I decided to take the engine out from the bottom. I made a very nice low and
long dolly. I took out the radiator, carb and I think I'm all done in the
engine compartment. Pulled off the front wheels and crossmember (which I have
to do anyway, since I don't like the look of the LAT mags the car had.)

Now, can folks help me with a list of what to disconnect underneath and on the
transmission end? Fluids are out, too.

What is the support brace called that is just in front of the X frame?

Thanks,
Jeff Holt
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett at comcast.net

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Sun Mar 27 08:57:09 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 11:57:09 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Dropping the engine
In-Reply-To: <909257599.3142218.1301240382008.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1844844905.3142208.1301240312437.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<909257599.3142218.1301240382008.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikDVieNQp0P2VyTQnoa+08hiCvFhZsLTTpbSgN0@mail.gmail.com>

yes, steering column is ofter overlooked and it takes 30 seconds to loosen 3
bolts and pull it up.  make a lot things a whole lot easier.

On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 11:39 AM, <genepadgett at comcast.net> wrote:

> Jeff, Owain has already posted an excellent list.B B  Although you mention
> you
> are all done with the engine compartment, I just wanted to remind you about
> the oil pressure line that runs from the front of the block driver's side
> to
> your gauge in the dash.B B  Sometimes easily overlooked.
>
>
>
> Also, I understand some people say remove the oil dipstick and tube for
> additional working clearance on the passenger side and disconnect the
> steering
> column on the driver's side from its mount and wire tie it to the side for
> much the same reason.
>
>
>
> Best regards,B  Gene
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Holt" <jeff.holt7 at gmail.com>
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:03:20 AM
> Subject: [Tigers] Dropping the engine
>
> I decided to take the engine out from the bottom. I made a very nice low
> and
> long dolly. I took out the radiator, carb and I think I'm all done in the
> engine compartment. Pulled off the front wheels and crossmember (which I
> have
> to do anyway, since I don't like the look of the LAT mags the car had.)
>
> Now, can folks help me with a list of what to disconnect underneath and on
> the
> transmission end? Fluids are out, too.
>
> What is the support brace called that is just in front of the X frame?
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff Holt
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Sun Mar 27 09:02:36 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 16:02:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: SU fuel pump to fuel line connectors
In-Reply-To: <406294376.3143119.1301241745493.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1671427963.3143125.1301241756175.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Jim,



Thanks for the heads up.B B  I sometimes wonder what we would do without Rick
and Sunbeam Specialties.B B  I just wish he would update his online
catalog.B B  A couple of things now that I have found out he actually has that
one does B not know about without asking!



Best regards,B  Gene


----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lindner" <jliny5 at cox.net>
To: genepadgett at comcast.net, tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 10:31:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fwd: SU fuel pump to fuel line connectors

Gene

I ordered a stock replacement SU pump for my Mk1 from Sunbeam Specialties
just a few days ago. While Rick was walking me through the order he asked if
the pump I was changing was anything other than the original type equipment.
He added that if so I would the need the fittings, which I seem to recall he
said he also had in stock. Give Sunbeam Specialties a call...I think they
might have what you need.

Jim Lindner
----- Original Message -----
From: <genepadgett at comcast.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 4:24 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: SU fuel pump to fuel line connectors


> Hello all, I am new to the list and probably should introduce myself
> before
> diving into the question.B
>
>
>
> I am an original Tiger owner from 1967.B B B Factory LAT fiberglass hood.B
> B
> MediterraneanB B Blue, original paint except for right frontB fender 10
> years
> ago.B B A bit in need of a respray.B B Polishes up presentably for the most
> part.B B B A redneck type guy in asking about that not longB B agoB
> commented
> that yes it was looking pretty faded.B B B In contrast, last year an
> English
> chap commented that it had a very nice patina!B B B Consider the source.B B
> Anyway, IB have the original 260 and close ratio toploader about to be
> replaced with a .030 over rebuilt 6 bolt 289 and wide ratio trans.B B Got
> the
> bell housing and clutch slave cylinder bracket issues all sorted out.B
> Putting in a Hurst shifter while I am at it.B B LSD and 2:72 gears in back
> (wanted a bit of overdrive effect for 4th).B B B Curious feature is that
> the
> car came from the dealer with Tiger II seats.B B Car purchased in October
> 1967,
> but VinB is a relatively low 1447 number.B B B I suspected something a bit
> amiss when the car was also delivered with speedo disconnected.B B B But I
> was
> happy to get it.B B Still am!
>
>
>
> Anyway, to the question.B B A friend recently bought a Mark 1A and is
> looking
> to go back to a SU fuel pump to replace the noisy Holley the PO put in the
> Tiger II trunk position.B B B He has belatedly discovered the SU pump -to-
> fuel
> line fittings are not AN and suspects they must be BSP.B B B Anyone know
> for
> sure what they are and where you can get them?B B
>
>
>
> There is a set on ebay as we speak, but he may not prevail in the
> auction.B B I
> have looked at Moss Motors but did not find the fittings.B B They do sell
> some
> sort of adapter rubber line kit in the Austin Healey section for lines
> that
> have been hacked, but the rubber lines are only 1/4 inch diameter.B B B My
> friend is running a rebuilt 260 with an Edelbrock f4bB and a 465cfm or so
> Holley.B B Anyway the delivery rates on the SU should be fine for his
> purposes,
> and the pump infinitely quieter.B B (Except for the, to some, pleasantly
> reassuring ticking..)
>
>
>
> Any ideas on where, other than ebay, he can get the fittings he needs?
>
>
>
> Thanks, Gene
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5 at cox.net

From Rollright at aol.com  Sun Mar 27 15:13:30 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 18:13:30 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter Cobra Tach
Message-ID: <165f5.1eecd865.3ac1108a@aol.com>

Hello,
 
 

So, I get the new Auto Meter tach, get the Sunbeam face all redone by  Paul 
(beautiful job), get the paint to make the blue segment inside, and go  
done to my workbench in basement to take the tach apart to start the mods.
 
- I take the nut and star locking washer off the middle of the back of the  
case. Then nothing. I put some real pull on it and nothing.... like it  
doesn't come off that way.
 
There must be an easy solution to disassembly that I'm overlooking. 
 
Can anybody help here?
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Sun Mar 27 15:49:11 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 15:49:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Dropping the engine
In-Reply-To: <909257599.3142218.1301240382008.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <611897.30812.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jeff, my 2 cents worth is about while you have the engine out. Now is the time
to make sure to seal all air leaks to consider insulation on the firewall to
keep the heat and cold out, depending on where you live and if you drive your
Tiger in cold weather as I do.Check to see there are no cob webs, mud dobbers
nest etc. in the heater box drain or the vent box drains if u have a Mk1a or
Mk2. Replace all the plugs in the firewall that may have deteriorated and you
may also consider insulating the tranny tunnel although the best insulation is
on the top side in under the carpet. Now is also the time to add that extra
protection besides the 2 fuses the King of Darkness provided in the original
harness. Also inspect the original welds around the tubes that the cross
member bolts screw into. Often paint can hide the fatigue of these very
important welds located on both the top and bottom of the frame rails. There
are articles on the Tigers United web site
 about insulating and although I haven't read it, I'm sure about the tubes in
the frame rails and if you think you want to add another fuse block, there are
members who have done so who will gladly tell you which doner car or where
they purchased same also the Tiger United web site may well cover this subject
also.
Cheers, TonytheTiger

--- On Sun, 3/27/11, genepadgett at comcast.net <genepadgett at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: genepadgett at comcast.net <genepadgett at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dropping the engine
> To: "Jeff Holt" <jeff.holt7 at gmail.com>
> Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, March 27, 2011, 10:39 AM
> Jeff, Owain has already posted an
> excellent list.B B  Although you mention you
> are all done with the engine compartment, I just wanted to
> remind you about
> the oil pressure line that runs from the front of the block
> driver's side to
> your gauge in the dash.B B  Sometimes easily
> overlooked.
>
>
>
> Also, I understand some people say remove the oil dipstick
> and tube for
> additional working clearance on the passenger side and
> disconnect the steering
> column on the driver's side from its mount and wire tie it
> to the side for
> much the same reason.
>
>
>
> Best regards,B  Gene
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Holt" <jeff.holt7 at gmail.com>
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:03:20 AM
> Subject: [Tigers] Dropping the engine
>
> I decided to take the engine out from the bottom. I made a
> very nice low and
> long dolly. I took out the radiator, carb and I think I'm
> all done in the
> engine compartment. Pulled off the front wheels and
> crossmember (which I have
> to do anyway, since I don't like the look of the LAT mags
> the car had.)
>
> Now, can folks help me with a list of what to disconnect
> underneath and on the
> transmission end? Fluids are out, too.
>
> What is the support brace called that is just in front of
> the X frame?
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff Holt
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Sun Mar 27 18:24:23 2011
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter Laurinaitis)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 21:24:23 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] http://pure-gas.org/
Message-ID: <B784A968-DED0-422B-863B-30BF496448D2@yahoo.com>

good site for non-ethanol stations

http://pure-gas.org/

i presume most folks have seen this already but just fyi

not may options in the northeast (ny, nj, ct, etc) for pure gas, guess the YUV
drivers dont care (yuppie utility vehicle) or all stations owned by the big
conglomerates that already caved to washington


-peter

From bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com  Sun Mar 27 18:57:28 2011
From: bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com (bob webb)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 21:57:28 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] http://pure-gas.org/
References: <B784A968-DED0-422B-863B-30BF496448D2@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <783975A26A264FBABDD2D711A8BB37F5@yourze8cxvr8tt>

peter,
   the one thing i noticed real quick when i looked at ohio is that most 
listed are 90 octane recreational gas that is not allowed to be sold for on 
road motor fuel use.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Laurinaitis" <laurin212 at yahoo.com>
To: "Tiger List List" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:24 PM
Subject: [Tigers] http://pure-gas.org/


> good site for non-ethanol stations
>
> http://pure-gas.org/
>
> i presume most folks have seen this already but just fyi
>
> not may options in the northeast (ny, nj, ct, etc) for pure gas, guess the 
> YUV
> drivers dont care (yuppie utility vehicle) or all stations owned by the 
> big
> conglomerates that already caved to washington
>
>
> -peter
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com

From wseay at embarqmail.com  Sun Mar 27 19:24:35 2011
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 22:24:35 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter Cobra Tach
In-Reply-To: <165f5.1eecd865.3ac1108a@aol.com>
References: <165f5.1eecd865.3ac1108a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbecef$4a0e9680$de2bc380$@com>

Jim,

I don't know about the Auto Meter tach, but the Smith's/Jagear tach opens from
the front.  To get into it you have to rotate the chrome bezel a few degrees and
then pull it off.  All the screws through the back are to mount components
inside the rear shell.  If the auto meter tach opens the same way as the
Smith's/Jagear tach, get back to me and I can give you a few tips on how to get
it open.

-Will 382001570

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 6:14 PM
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter Cobra Tach

Hello,
 
 

So, I get the new Auto Meter tach, get the Sunbeam face all redone by  Paul 
(beautiful job), get the paint to make the blue segment inside, and go  
done to my workbench in basement to take the tach apart to start the mods.
 
- I take the nut and star locking washer off the middle of the back of the  
case. Then nothing. I put some real pull on it and nothing.... like it  
doesn't come off that way.
 
There must be an easy solution to disassembly that I'm overlooking. 
 
Can anybody help here?
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wseay at embarqmail.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sun Mar 27 19:25:22 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 21:25:22 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] A walk around my garage.
In-Reply-To: <783975A26A264FBABDD2D711A8BB37F5@yourze8cxvr8tt>
References: <B784A968-DED0-422B-863B-30BF496448D2@yahoo.com>
	<783975A26A264FBABDD2D711A8BB37F5@yourze8cxvr8tt>
Message-ID: <000801cbecef$63bf9570$2b3ec050$@rr.com>

George Lucas I am not.....

Enjoy - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqSC9ZLMHw8

Duke
B382002037

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Mar 27 19:54:07 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 21:54:07 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?http=3A//pure-gas=2Eorg/?=
Message-ID: <20110328025409.B1C76187643@autox.team.net>

Lie.
Better in lawn mowers and other things, too!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "bob webb" <bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com>
Date: Sun, Mar 27, 2011 20:57
Subject: [Tigers] http://pure-gas.org/
To: "Peter Laurinaitis" <laurin212 at yahoo.com>, "Tiger List List" <tigers at autox.team.net>

peter,
  the one thing i noticed real quick when i looked at ohio is that most listed are 90 octane recreational gas that is not allowed to be sold for on road motor fuel use.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Laurinaitis" <laurin212 at yahoo.com>
To: "Tiger List List" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:24 PM
Subject: [Tigers] http://pure-gas.org/


> good site for non-ethanol stations
>
> http://pure-gas.org/
>
> i presume most folks have seen this already but just fyi
>
> not may options in the northeast (ny, nj, ct, etc) for pure gas, guess the > YUV
> drivers dont care (yuppie utility vehicle) or all stations owned by the > big
> conglomerates that already caved to washington
>
>
> -peter
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Sun Mar 27 21:15:02 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 21:15:02 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] http://pure-gas.org/
In-Reply-To: <783975A26A264FBABDD2D711A8BB37F5@yourze8cxvr8tt>
References: <B784A968-DED0-422B-863B-30BF496448D2@yahoo.com>
	<783975A26A264FBABDD2D711A8BB37F5@yourze8cxvr8tt>
Message-ID: <4D900B46.4050003@mayfco.com>

What the heck is recreational gas?  Isn't 90 octane better than the 87 
junk we normally buy these days?

mayf

On 3/27/2011 6:57 PM, bob webb wrote:
> peter,
>   the one thing i noticed real quick when i looked at ohio is that 
> most listed are 90 octane recreational gas that is not allowed to be 
> sold for on road motor fuel use.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Laurinaitis" 
> <laurin212 at yahoo.com>
> To: "Tiger List List" <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:24 PM
> Subject: [Tigers] http://pure-gas.org/
>
>
>> good site for non-ethanol stations
>>
>> http://pure-gas.org/
>>
>> i presume most folks have seen this already but just fyi
>>
>> not may options in the northeast (ny, nj, ct, etc) for pure gas, 
>> guess the YUV
>> drivers dont care (yuppie utility vehicle) or all stations owned by 
>> the big
>> conglomerates that already caved to washington
>>
>>
>> -peter
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com

From hanjan2 at bellsouth.net  Mon Mar 28 05:17:51 2011
From: hanjan2 at bellsouth.net (hanjan2)
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 08:17:51 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] http://pure-gas.org/
In-Reply-To: <4D900B46.4050003@mayfco.com>
References: <B784A968-DED0-422B-863B-30BF496448D2@yahoo.com><783975A26A264FBABDD2D711A8BB37F5@yourze8cxvr8tt>
	<4D900B46.4050003@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <002101cbed42$299a8cd0$7ccfa670$@bellsouth.net>

Bob is correct; almost all non-ethanol fuel is sold at marina's (some very
rare exceptions). 
That fuel is not taxed for road use (in other words, not allowed to be put
in a car), and is almost always way more expensive than fuel you would buy
that is taxed. 
This list is all but useless for most of us (I looked at fort Lauderdale...
all marina's). 
But wouldn't it be great if ......
Hank in Florida

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 12:15 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] http://pure-gas.org/

What the heck is recreational gas?  Isn't 90 octane better than the 87 
junk we normally buy these days?

mayf

On 3/27/2011 6:57 PM, bob webb wrote:
> peter,
>   the one thing i noticed real quick when i looked at ohio is that 
> most listed are 90 octane recreational gas that is not allowed to be 
> sold for on road motor fuel use.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Laurinaitis" 
> <laurin212 at yahoo.com>
> To: "Tiger List List" <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:24 PM
> Subject: [Tigers] http://pure-gas.org/
>
>
>> good site for non-ethanol stations
>>
>> http://pure-gas.org/
>>
>> i presume most folks have seen this already but just fyi
>>
>> not may options in the northeast (ny, nj, ct, etc) for pure gas, 
>> guess the YUV
>> drivers dont care (yuppie utility vehicle) or all stations owned by 
>> the big
>> conglomerates that already caved to washington
>>
>>
>> -peter
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/hanjan2 at bellsouth.net

From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Mon Mar 28 06:59:12 2011
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 09:59:12 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Pure Gas
Message-ID: <4D909430.9050809@roadrunner.com>

And I thought recreational gas was nitrous!  I guess the laugh's on me.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE

From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Mon Mar 28 07:55:21 2011
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Cullen McCann)
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 09:55:21 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] A walk around my garage.
In-Reply-To: <000801cbecef$63bf9570$2b3ec050$@rr.com>
References: <B784A968-DED0-422B-863B-30BF496448D2@yahoo.com>
	<783975A26A264FBABDD2D711A8BB37F5@yourze8cxvr8tt>
	<000801cbecef$63bf9570$2b3ec050$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <001c01cbed58$2ac79920$8056cb60$@com>

Very cool Duke! Im no expert on restorations or video, but I agree, its much
more interactive than photos...

Project is looking really nice, keep up the awesome work!

Cullen

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:25 PM
To: 'Tiger List List'
Subject: [Tigers] A walk around my garage.

George Lucas I am not.....

Enjoy - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqSC9ZLMHw8

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com

From Gyroplanes at aol.com  Mon Mar 28 11:12:44 2011
From: Gyroplanes at aol.com (Gyroplanes at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 14:12:44 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] http://pure-gas.org/
Message-ID: <1d67c.46237b32.3ac2299c@aol.com>

Hey, there is always AVGAS. I haven't bought any lately, but I bet it  
rivals Boatgas in price. (100 octane and no alcohol, guaranteed)
Tom
 
In a message dated 3/28/2011 7:18:45 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
hanjan2 at bellsouth.net writes:

What the  heck is recreational gas?  Isn't 90 octane better than the 87 
junk we  normally buy these days?

From gabbardalex at att.net  Mon Mar 28 15:39:43 2011
From: gabbardalex at att.net (Gabbard Gabbard)
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 15:39:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] gas pedal assembly
In-Reply-To: <789248.37394.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1541331403.3123693.1301185497511.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<789248.37394.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <966198.43532.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Looking for a complete Tiger gas pedal pivot assembly.

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Mon Mar 28 15:46:53 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 18:46:53 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] gas pedal assembly
In-Reply-To: <966198.43532.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1541331403.3123693.1301185497511.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<789248.37394.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<966198.43532.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C219967D-442C-438C-B0B8-37FE0F9E18D6@gmail.com>

stepped on it too hard? :)

On Mar 28, 2011, at 18:39, Gabbard Gabbard <gabbardalex at att.net> wrote:

> Looking for a complete Tiger gas pedal pivot assembly.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From CoolVT at aol.com  Mon Mar 28 18:10:56 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 21:10:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] gas pedal assembly
Message-ID: <9dbf.148bb6fe.3ac28ba0@aol.com>

I wish someone would come up with a substitute pedal assembly that is more  
comfortable for the foot and leg.
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 3/28/2011 6:47:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
owain.lloyd at gmail.com writes:

stepped  on it too hard? :)

On Mar 28, 2011, at 18:39, Gabbard Gabbard  <gabbardalex at att.net> wrote:

> Looking for a complete Tiger  gas pedal pivot assembly.
>  _______________________________________________
>  Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 29 08:40:03 2011
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 11:40:03 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] gas pedal assembly
In-Reply-To: <9dbf.148bb6fe.3ac28ba0@aol.com>
References: <9dbf.148bb6fe.3ac28ba0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikQde-303tSZZ01fjff_ZUeVxesKUZ+LdmxU0pF@mail.gmail.com>

Mine has a "field Fix" complements of the PO: the darn thing is welded so it
can't slip. It's welded in the wrong location, though, so
Rick's throttle cable puts the pedal way too high. Serious leg pain! Even
with the correct position (thanks to an adjustable throttle cable) the
position isn't very "comfortable", even for my 5'8" frame. I suspect it's as
much the seat height as the throttle position.

Tom

' 67 Mark 2

On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 9:10 PM, <CoolVT at aol.com> wrote:

> I wish someone would come up with a substitute pedal assembly that is more
> comfortable for the foot and leg.
> Mark L
>
>
> In a message dated 3/28/2011 6:47:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> owain.lloyd at gmail.com writes:
>
> stepped  on it too hard? :)
>
> On Mar 28, 2011, at 18:39, Gabbard Gabbard  <gabbardalex at att.net> wrote:
>
> > Looking for a complete Tiger  gas pedal pivot assembly.
> >  _______________________________________________
> >  Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> >  Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Tue Mar 29 11:25:40 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 14:25:40 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] that wonderful vintage hammer sound.
Message-ID: <AANLkTikXLfjLy_vYoF+X8aL8su6d-0JSARtVtdXMSDh1@mail.gmail.com>

my engine is '72 mexico block 302 with solid, flat tappet cam and roller
rockers.
while its a very well built engine, on a whim, had a run of the mill roller
cam 302 machined up to build a 347 by fordstrokers.com.

it should clearly kick out more power and torque, but i'm a little worried
that i'll ruin the wonderful sound.  my 302 is the best sounding engine i've
heard, period!  will this be gone with hydraulic roller lifters?

i only rev the mexico block to 6200 rpm (although it should be fine for a
good deal more), which will likely be the limit on the 347, so i'm not
giving up revs with the stroker.

From dave at munroe.ca  Tue Mar 29 12:54:50 2011
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 16:54:50 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] that wonderful vintage hammer sound.
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikXLfjLy_vYoF+X8aL8su6d-0JSARtVtdXMSDh1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikXLfjLy_vYoF+X8aL8su6d-0JSARtVtdXMSDh1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <862CCA8735684533808E4A5125CD0433@DavePC>

Owain:

Not sure what you mean by "ruin the sound". The hydraulic roller components 
are mechanically more quite than the flat tappet version, so you won't hear 
the "rain on the tin roof" so much...But the exhaust should still have the 
music!

Dave

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Owain Lloyd" <owain.lloyd at gmail.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 3:25 PM
Subject: [Tigers] that wonderful vintage hammer sound.


> my engine is '72 mexico block 302 with solid, flat tappet cam and roller
> rockers.
> while its a very well built engine, on a whim, had a run of the mill 
> roller
> cam 302 machined up to build a 347 by fordstrokers.com.
>
> it should clearly kick out more power and torque, but i'm a little worried
> that i'll ruin the wonderful sound.  my 302 is the best sounding engine 
> i've
> heard, period!  will this be gone with hydraulic roller lifters?
>
> i only rev the mexico block to 6200 rpm (although it should be fine for a
> good deal more), which will likely be the limit on the 347, so i'm not
> giving up revs with the stroker.

From mark.rense at ge.com  Tue Mar 29 13:27:35 2011
From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light))
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 16:27:35 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] that wonderful vintage hammer sound.
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikXLfjLy_vYoF+X8aL8su6d-0JSARtVtdXMSDh1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikXLfjLy_vYoF+X8aL8su6d-0JSARtVtdXMSDh1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0866CB99@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>

Owain, Your new engine will sound different for several reasons. The old
302 had the 260/289 firing order, the 5.0 engines (roller cam) switched
to the 351 firing order. If you listen to a modern Mustang your new
engine's exhaust cadence will sound like that, not bad, just different.
I personally prefer the older firing order sound, especially through a
nice set of headers and 2.5" pipes, but then again that's what I grew up
hearing.

Also, the solid lifter engines always seemed to have a sharper exhaust
"crack" to them verses hydraulic lifters, HOWEVER, since the ramp speeds
of a modern roller cam are so much faster than the old flat tappets I
suspect you will not miss much there. All depends on the cam you chose.

Lastly, the addition of those 45 extra cubic inches will only enhance
the decibel level of each exhaust pulse, this will certainly compensate
for any other deviations in sound quality.

I have built several engines in the last six years, all of them based on
289 blocks, some stock stroke, some fully stroked. Trust me when I say
that when your new stroker sweeps past 6 grand for the first time and
you bang the next gear, you WILL achieve maximum wood!

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: Owain Lloyd
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 2:26 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] that wonderful vintage hammer sound.

my engine is '72 mexico block 302 with solid, flat tappet cam and roller
rockers.
while its a very well built engine, on a whim, had a run of the mill
roller cam 302 machined up to build a 347 by fordstrokers.com.

it should clearly kick out more power and torque, but i'm a little
worried that i'll ruin the wonderful sound.  my 302 is the best sounding
engine i've heard, period!  will this be gone with hydraulic roller
lifters?

i only rev the mexico block to 6200 rpm (although it should be fine for
a good deal more), which will likely be the limit on the 347, so i'm not
giving up revs with the stroker.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mark.rense at ge.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Tue Mar 29 13:32:29 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 15:32:29 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] that wonderful vintage hammer sound.
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikXLfjLy_vYoF+X8aL8su6d-0JSARtVtdXMSDh1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20110329203229.VL7SC.86168.root@hrndva-web01-z01>

Owain,

I do not plan on turning my 347 past 6200.  SCAT told me that the crank is good for 7K.

I love the sound my 260 makes with 1 3/4" pipes.  I am sure that will pale in comparison to the 347 roller engine with headers, 2 1/4" pipes with a crossover and Flowmaster mufflers.  I will let you know what it sounds like next month.

Duke
B382002037

From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Tue Mar 29 13:42:49 2011
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Cullen McCann)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 15:42:49 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] that wonderful vintage hammer sound.
In-Reply-To: <862CCA8735684533808E4A5125CD0433@DavePC>
References: <AANLkTikXLfjLy_vYoF+X8aL8su6d-0JSARtVtdXMSDh1@mail.gmail.com>
	<862CCA8735684533808E4A5125CD0433@DavePC>
Message-ID: <00db01cbee51$deaa1040$9bfe30c0$@com>

I agree...I was thinking the same thing when  I saw Owain's comment...but
then I realized that the rattley solid lifters have a distinct sound for
sure, one that a lot of people WANT in their motors. The hydraulic roller
motors are much quieter, and by "my generation" standard...quieter engine
noises is perceived as nicer...less like blown exhaust gaskets, flat lobes,
dead lifters, valve train out of adjustment or hitting valve covers too
short.  ;)

But in all honesty, solid roller motors are cool in their own right, I have
a stroke Windsor in a kit car that is solid roller and its super cool, but
all my younger friends think its falling apart.

It all depends on what you are use to....and the exhaust note in a hydraulic
roller is INCREDIBLE....

Cullen



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Munroe
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 2:55 PM
To: owain.lloyd at gmail.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] that wonderful vintage hammer sound.

Owain:

Not sure what you mean by "ruin the sound". The hydraulic roller components 
are mechanically more quite than the flat tappet version, so you won't hear 
the "rain on the tin roof" so much...But the exhaust should still have the 
music!

Dave

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Owain Lloyd" <owain.lloyd at gmail.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 3:25 PM
Subject: [Tigers] that wonderful vintage hammer sound.


> my engine is '72 mexico block 302 with solid, flat tappet cam and roller
> rockers.
> while its a very well built engine, on a whim, had a run of the mill 
> roller
> cam 302 machined up to build a 347 by fordstrokers.com.
>
> it should clearly kick out more power and torque, but i'm a little worried
> that i'll ruin the wonderful sound.  my 302 is the best sounding engine 
> i've
> heard, period!  will this be gone with hydraulic roller lifters?
>
> i only rev the mexico block to 6200 rpm (although it should be fine for a
> good deal more), which will likely be the limit on the 347, so i'm not
> giving up revs with the stroker.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Mar 29 15:03:42 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 09:03:42 +1100
Subject: [Tigers] that wonderful vintage hammer sound.
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikXLfjLy_vYoF+X8aL8su6d-0JSARtVtdXMSDh1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikXLfjLy_vYoF+X8aL8su6d-0JSARtVtdXMSDh1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimq3R-OKuYjwUW0=_8B1U=PaXT_9NTAayj-gge-@mail.gmail.com>

I have noticed that the old flat tappet motors (especially with a few mods)
have a much harder more intense sound as they rev. They get a more metalic
scream if thats a fair description. The modern firring order and roller cam
setups give a very nice smooth hard sound.. but its more base and even.. the
old motors really have a hard edge to them.

On 30 March 2011 05:25, Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd at gmail.com> wrote:

> my engine is '72 mexico block 302 with solid, flat tappet cam and roller
> rockers.
> while its a very well built engine, on a whim, had a run of the mill roller
> cam 302 machined up to build a 347 by fordstrokers.com.
>
> it should clearly kick out more power and torque, but i'm a little worried
> that i'll ruin the wonderful sound.  my 302 is the best sounding engine
> i've
> heard, period!  will this be gone with hydraulic roller lifters?
>
> i only rev the mexico block to 6200 rpm (although it should be fine for a
> good deal more), which will likely be the limit on the 347, so i'm not
> giving up revs with the stroker.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From rab65tiger at aol.com  Tue Mar 29 15:48:55 2011
From: rab65tiger at aol.com (rab65tiger at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 18:48:55 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] that wonderful vintage hammer sound.
In-Reply-To: <00db01cbee51$deaa1040$9bfe30c0$@com>
References: <AANLkTikXLfjLy_vYoF+X8aL8su6d-0JSARtVtdXMSDh1@mail.gmail.com><862CCA8735684533808E4A5125CD0433@DavePC>
	<00db01cbee51$deaa1040$9bfe30c0$@com>
Message-ID: <8CDBC7A9DE82AC7-199C-15998@webmail-d001.sysops.aol.com>

 A few mechanical differences for sure.  Solid lifter flat tappet cams have a
"clackety" sound associated with there design.  Also, the new roller cams use
the HO firing order which is "smoother" and supposed create less stress on
block, and slightly more power.  A crossover pipe also should mellow the
sound.  Comp cams has their hydraulic flat tappet "nostalgia" hipo cam,
supposed have the idle of the solid hipo cam and a little better power.  Then
there are the new "Thumper" roller cams designed for a muscle car idle, and
real world driving.  Also, the compression ratio affects the volume.  But
nothing like reduced emissions, less heat created, smooth operation, less
maintenance and more power with the more modern roller lifter and rocker motor
with performance aftermarket heads.

I bench build these in my head often, hopefully soon I get it done.

Randy B

From jliny5 at cox.net  Tue Mar 29 16:00:00 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 19:00:00 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
Message-ID: <B1B3FFF0CB6545AA9CD7B2119151924E@JPC>

Hi All,

My Mk1 is back in the garage after a long winter's rest and some work to
address body panel issues. One of the things I wanted to do after reading a
thread from a few months back, was to check the accuracy of my gauge using a
laser thermometer.

Well I did that today and to say it was off is an understatement. After idling
for 30-45 minutes the temp at the radiator and thermostat was
185...unfortunately my gauge was reading only about 150-155 (needle about half
way between 120 & 170.)

Since I did not save that thread...can somebody give me a rundown on the best
way to get my gauge in sync. Hopefully, it will be within my technical
capbilities.

Thanks,

Jim

From stubrennan at comcast.net  Tue Mar 29 16:34:42 2011
From: stubrennan at comcast.net (Stu Brennan)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 19:34:42 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
In-Reply-To: <B1B3FFF0CB6545AA9CD7B2119151924E@JPC>
Message-ID: <000001cbee69$e45a96f0$6401a8c0@Brennan>

For info on gage troubleshooting, check out my article at:

http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/BrennanGauge/rt-BrennanGauge1.asp


There's a explanation of how things work, and how to troubleshoot.  When
I had the symptoms you describe, the gage reading low, the problem was
the sender going bad.  It's easy to sort things out if you have an
ohmmeter.

Stu Brennan

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Mar 29 17:02:41 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 11:02:41 +1100
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
In-Reply-To: <000001cbee69$e45a96f0$6401a8c0@Brennan>
References: <B1B3FFF0CB6545AA9CD7B2119151924E@JPC>
	<000001cbee69$e45a96f0$6401a8c0@Brennan>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimNOZU0b9v5+K08NKek164f3xCRRiZot_UAxhjZ@mail.gmail.com>

it also depends on what sender you are using, and where it is mounted. From
what i understand the autometer senders that people often use mounted on the
manifold do not read well with the original gauges. If you still have the
temp sender in the original T fitting the issue should not be as bad..
though gauges over time...

I just checked mine 2 weeks back with an infrared gun.. i have an original
NOS temp gauge i installed recently.. i have an autometer sender mounted at
the front of the manifold. The gun read 10deg C warmer at the sender than i
was getting at the gauge.

On 30 March 2011 10:34, Stu Brennan <stubrennan at comcast.net> wrote:

> For info on gage troubleshooting, check out my article at:
>
> http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/BrennanGauge/rt-BrennanGauge1.asp
>
>
> There's a explanation of how things work, and how to troubleshoot.  When
> I had the symptoms you describe, the gage reading low, the problem was
> the sender going bad.  It's easy to sort things out if you have an
> ohmmeter.
>
> Stu Brennan
>  _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Mar 29 17:11:06 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 20:11:06 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
In-Reply-To: <B1B3FFF0CB6545AA9CD7B2119151924E@JPC>
Message-ID: <4BA1106A1C944ADA97D4EC7D40736BF3@ronpc1>

Jim
	I think you can find all that information on Tigersunited.com under
Tech Tips.

The first thing I would do is make sure all the green wires from the
instrument voltage regulator to the gages are in good shape.   It is always
difficult to accurately check gages because you never really know how good
the other gage your checking with is.

I took the temp sender out and checked it with a voltmeter while warming it
up in a pot of water on the stove.  I think I made a graph of resistance
heating up and cooling down.   I also used a thermocouple on the block to
check it in the engine.  My gage reads a little low and I left it that way
because I know that the engine is around 180 degrees at that point on the
gage.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Lindner
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 7:00 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy


Hi All,

My Mk1 is back in the garage after a long winter's rest and some work to
address body panel issues. One of the things I wanted to do after reading a
thread from a few months back, was to check the accuracy of my gauge using a
laser thermometer.

Well I did that today and to say it was off is an understatement. After
idling for 30-45 minutes the temp at the radiator and thermostat was
185...unfortunately my gauge was reading only about 150-155 (needle about
half way between 120 & 170.)

Since I did not save that thread...can somebody give me a rundown on the
best way to get my gauge in sync. Hopefully, it will be within my technical
capbilities.

Thanks,

Jim
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3537 - Release Date: 03/29/11
06:34:00

From allfudge1635 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 29 17:19:06 2011
From: allfudge1635 at gmail.com (allfudge1635 at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 00:19:06 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
In-Reply-To: <B1B3FFF0CB6545AA9CD7B2119151924E@JPC>
References: <B1B3FFF0CB6545AA9CD7B2119151924E@JPC>
Message-ID: <mailman.5.1301444358.3238.tigers@autox.team.net>

James,
The first thing I would do is verify the accuracy of your temperature reading. If you used a laser thermometer you should place black electrical tape on the surface you are measuring, then,if your meter has adjustable emissivity, set the meter to .95 emissivity. Aim the laser at the tape, and be sure you're within the spot ratio distance so the meter only sees the tape. That should be a good number. As for calibrating the gauge, I'll let other, wiser people guide you on that.

Al
Sent on the Sprint. Now Network from my BlackBerry.

-----Original Message-----
From: "James Lindner" <jliny5 at cox.net>
Sender: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 19:00:00 
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy

Hi All,

My Mk1 is back in the garage after a long winter's rest and some work to
address body panel issues. One of the things I wanted to do after reading a
thread from a few months back, was to check the accuracy of my gauge using a
laser thermometer.

Well I did that today and to say it was off is an understatement. After idling
for 30-45 minutes the temp at the radiator and thermostat was
185...unfortunately my gauge was reading only about 150-155 (needle about half
way between 120 & 170.)

Since I did not save that thread...can somebody give me a rundown on the best
way to get my gauge in sync. Hopefully, it will be within my technical
capbilities.

Thanks,

Jim
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allfudge1635 at gmail.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Tue Mar 29 18:52:22 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 20:52:22 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Next question....clutch slave cylinder.
In-Reply-To: <20110330001925.638DB1878DA@autox.team.net>
References: <B1B3FFF0CB6545AA9CD7B2119151924E@JPC>
	<20110330001925.638DB1878DA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001cbee7d$1c88a130$5599e390$@rr.com>

First of all, thanks for all the team's input on my never ending questions.

Per Gary Crandall's articles in TT on Upgrade from a 5 to 6 old block, I
have decided to go with a different clutch fork.

Take a look the next two pictures and the reason is obvious.
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/004-2.jpg
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/005-2.jpg
The bracket is much more robust and attachment to the bracket better with
the clip.

The only stickler is the spring that holds the slave cylinder rod ball-thing
attached to the clutch fork (CF).  I modified it by drilling a hole and then
using safety wire to help secure it. The socket on the CF is also much
smaller than the original CF.
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/015.jpg
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/013.jpg

I am concerned about the angle of the slave cylinder rod, the original was
the same and the rod was even bent.  Is this a normal angle for this rod.  I
do not see any way to change or move the slave cylinder to correct it.

I am using the CAT Club Mk II slave cylinder bracket.

I also had to use 1" spacers in between the slave cylinder bracket and the
scatter shield to get the correct 1 1/4' distance from the block.
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/012-2.jpg

So let me know what your thought are on using this CF because I sure do not
want to have to pull the engne to change back to the original.

TIA!

Duke
B382002037

From bobdixon at frii.com  Tue Mar 29 19:59:14 2011
From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 20:59:14 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger graphic/logo
References: <B1B3FFF0CB6545AA9CD7B2119151924E@JPC><20110330001925.638DB1878DA@autox.team.net>
	<000001cbee7d$1c88a130$5599e390$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <C7B66B75552F4386B13032BD0D4D06A2@BobsDell>

I know this has come up before, but does anyone have a high-res graphic of 
the Tiger logo.  Specifically the Tiger head but anything that can be 
expanded to 'big' would be awesome.

Thanks,
Bob 

From Timothy.Ronak at akzonobel.com  Tue Mar 29 20:23:57 2011
From: Timothy.Ronak at akzonobel.com (Ronak, T.P. (Timothy))
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 05:23:57 +0200
Subject: [Tigers] Stroker Engine sound
Message-ID: <201E5AF61F0C0D46B2638D7289CF6E050168B62B@NRWN080.d30.intra>

Owain,
The stroker will sound just fine with the right cam selection. Running a
Hydraulic roller may soften the idle lump a bit as they are designed to
create some vacuum at idle for the electronic fuel injection to work.
I my opinion the key things that will help the car 'sound' right are
10.5:1 compression
Decent cam with a bit of lift
Right exhaust with 2.5 inch pipes and 'turbo' style mufflers
Big enough airfilter

If you want I did a 349.6 stroker when I had my Tiger and it sounded
pretty decent the actual components are on the www.tigersunited.com  web
site under the performance tuning section Lunati Stroker Buildup
http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/Ronak350Lunati/pt-Ronak350Lunati1.a
sp

Couple of videos on You Tube for you
Dyno Run
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90kCMAOnO_M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSMayDvW5NA

Big Bear Auto Cross event
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNQwbmffktI
A softer launch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLGEn-_aHeE

Kind of a lurker now that I sold off my stuff but the car was an
absolute blast to play with ... I miss it.


Best Regards,

Tim Ronak
Senior Services Consultant
AkzoNobel Automotive and Aerospace Coatings NA
23961 Via El Rocio
Mission Viejo,  CA  92691
Ph: (949) 289-3357
Fx: (425) 955-6268
EM: timothy.ronak at akzonobel.com
Personal EM: timronak at cox.net


Information contained in this email is confidential. If you received
this email in error please delete this message and inform the sender.

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Mar 29 21:40:56 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 15:40:56 +1100
Subject: [Tigers] putting out fires
Message-ID: <AANLkTin=xQjct2+v+beo7bzmGxqixK2xAiFYGe-mOjv=@mail.gmail.com>

I finally got one of these.. been wanting one for ages.. sometimes they have
costs to much.. often they are missing the brackets and often not in nice
condition... I got this a few months back.. and after fearing it lost in
post (it had been 3 months 2 weeks since it was sent) it arrived... nice

It is the smaller of the extinguishers that were available.. now where to
mount it.. on the trans tunnel?

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2156760340054462410wSXXJE

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2759301170054462410ayRLjF


as a side note.. this is not being used for emergency sitiations.. its a
show part only.. though it is full

-- 
Regards

Michael King

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Wed Mar 30 04:28:36 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 11:28:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
In-Reply-To: <2013458823.3303748.1301484492778.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1970894637.3303751.1301484516421.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I think I am late to class on this one.B B 



I have come to understand that we should use only aB GL-4 rated fluid in the
old toploaders although GL-5 is fine/preferred for rear ends.



Supposedly the GL-5 rated ones have a higher sulfer additive content that is
bad for brass syncros and other yellow metal type components.

B B 

While today's sulfer additive is buffered so as to not corrode brass
components, that does not prevent it from strippingB metal off the syncros as
they operate since it is harder than the yellow metals.

B B 

Do I have that right?



If so, what shouldB brands andB SAE rating specification(s) are people using
these days in their toploaders?.



Thanks,B  GeneB 

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Wed Mar 30 05:50:18 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 08:50:18 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] putting out fires
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin=xQjct2+v+beo7bzmGxqixK2xAiFYGe-mOjv=@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FC3AA2967B5840B0B69D8D311073CC8D@ronpc1>

Michael
	Very nice find.  TBON indicates that there were 3 sizes available;
4, 8 and 16 oz fire extinguishers.
The picture shows it mounted just behind the right seat vertically at the
door but it does not show if it is a LHD or RHD Tiger.   Mounting position
is of coarse where you like it best.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of michael king
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 12:41 AM
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
Subject: [Tigers] putting out fires


I finally got one of these.. been wanting one for ages.. sometimes they have
costs to much.. often they are missing the brackets and often not in nice
condition... I got this a few months back.. and after fearing it lost in
post (it had been 3 months 2 weeks since it was sent) it arrived... nice

It is the smaller of the extinguishers that were available.. now where to
mount it.. on the trans tunnel?

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2156760340054462410wSXXJE

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2759301170054462410ayRLjF


as a side note.. this is not being used for emergency sitiations.. its a
show part only.. though it is full

--
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3537 - Release Date: 03/29/11
06:34:00

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Wed Mar 30 06:16:25 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 13:16:25 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] putting out fires
In-Reply-To: <FC3AA2967B5840B0B69D8D311073CC8D@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <20110330131625.62INK.87560.root@hrndva-web28-z02>

I know the perfect, factory correct mounting point.

It is in Tiger B382002037LRXFE.

Duke
B382002037


----  Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com> wrote: 
> Michael
> 	Very nice find.  TBON indicates that there were 3 sizes available;
> 4, 8 and 16 oz fire extinguishers.
> The picture shows it mounted just behind the right seat vertically at the
> door but it does not show if it is a LHD or RHD Tiger.   Mounting position
> is of coarse where you like it best.
> 
> Ron Fraser
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of michael king
> Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 12:41 AM
> To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
> Subject: [Tigers] putting out fires
> 
> 
> I finally got one of these.. been wanting one for ages.. sometimes they have
> costs to much.. often they are missing the brackets and often not in nice
> condition... I got this a few months back.. and after fearing it lost in
> post (it had been 3 months 2 weeks since it was sent) it arrived... nice
> 
> It is the smaller of the extinguishers that were available.. now where to
> mount it.. on the trans tunnel?
> 
> http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2156760340054462410wSXXJE
> 
> http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2759301170054462410ayRLjF
> 
> 
> as a side note.. this is not being used for emergency sitiations.. its a
> show part only.. though it is full
> 
> --
> Regards
> 
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3537 - Release Date: 03/29/11
> 06:34:00
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From Rollright at aol.com  Wed Mar 30 06:39:06 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 09:39:06 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Oil pan
Message-ID: <9358d.609217e2.3ac48c7a@aol.com>

Duke,
 
Thanks for the help on Sunday. I'm now facing the grinding of the inside of 
 the Auto Meter case to fit the old bezel.
 
What's up with the oil pan? Did you get it yet? I'd really like to hear the 
 guy's, er, reasons for the delay...
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 30 07:25:20 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:25:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
In-Reply-To: <1970894637.3303751.1301484516421.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <787613.16605.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

When I replaced the axle bearings I changed the rear end lube out (80W90).
Thinking it couldnt hurt to add new gear lube and drain the old. But now Im
thinking of changing it again and going to a synthetic gear lube. I dont
believe there will be any problems with it.  Dale A. also says to use
sythentic transmission fluid on the Ford 5 speed. I dont believe sythentic
gear lube normally used(gear lube)in the stock transmisson would create any
problems with the brass syncronizers or any other metals. Just my opinion.
TonytheTiger

--- On Wed, 3/30/11, genepadgett at comcast.net <genepadgett at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: genepadgett at comcast.net <genepadgett at comcast.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, March 30, 2011, 6:28 AM
> I think I am late to class on this
> one.B B
>
>
>
> I have come to understand that we should use only aB GL-4
> rated fluid in the
> old toploaders although GL-5 is fine/preferred for rear
> ends.
>
>
>
> Supposedly the GL-5 rated ones have a higher sulfer
> additive content that is
> bad for brass syncros and other yellow metal type
> components.
>
> B B
>
> While today's sulfer additive is buffered so as to not
> corrode brass
> components, that does not prevent it from strippingB metal
> off the syncros as
> they operate since it is harder than the yellow metals.
>
> B B
>
> Do I have that right?
>
>
>
> If so, what shouldB brands andB SAE rating specification(s)
> are people using
> these days in their toploaders?.
>
>
>
> Thanks,B  GeneB
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com

From wseay at embarqmail.com  Wed Mar 30 07:39:20 2011
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 10:39:20 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Next question....clutch slave cylinder.
In-Reply-To: <000001cbee7d$1c88a130$5599e390$@rr.com>
References: <B1B3FFF0CB6545AA9CD7B2119151924E@JPC>
	<20110330001925.638DB1878DA@autox.team.net>
	<000001cbee7d$1c88a130$5599e390$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbeee8$425a0410$c70e0c30$@com>

Duke,

Can you get rid of the 1" spacers and go to a longer rod between slave cyl and
release lever?  An extra 1" added to the rod would make for a lot less of a
misalignment problem.

-Will 382001570

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 9:52 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Next question....clutch slave cylinder.

First of all, thanks for all the team's input on my never ending questions.

Per Gary Crandall's articles in TT on Upgrade from a 5 to 6 old block, I
have decided to go with a different clutch fork.

Take a look the next two pictures and the reason is obvious.
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/004-2.jpg
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/005-2.jpg
The bracket is much more robust and attachment to the bracket better with
the clip.

The only stickler is the spring that holds the slave cylinder rod ball-thing
attached to the clutch fork (CF).  I modified it by drilling a hole and then
using safety wire to help secure it. The socket on the CF is also much
smaller than the original CF.
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/015.jpg
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/013.jpg

I am concerned about the angle of the slave cylinder rod, the original was
the same and the rod was even bent.  Is this a normal angle for this rod.  I
do not see any way to change or move the slave cylinder to correct it.

I am using the CAT Club Mk II slave cylinder bracket.

I also had to use 1" spacers in between the slave cylinder bracket and the
scatter shield to get the correct 1 1/4' distance from the block.
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/012-2.jpg

So let me know what your thought are on using this CF because I sure do not
want to have to pull the engne to change back to the original.

TIA!

Duke
B382002037

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 30 07:52:04 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 09:52:04 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Toploader_trans_fluid?=
Message-ID: <20110330145159.3DB69187676@autox.team.net>

Go Redline lube and never look back.
R

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Tony Somebody" <achd73 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, Mar 30, 2011 09:25
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>, <genepadgett at comcast.net>

When I replaced the axle bearings I changed the rear end lube out (80W90).
Thinking it couldnt hurt to add new gear lube and drain the old. But now Im
thinking of changing it again and going to a synthetic gear lube. I dont
believe there will be any problems with it.  Dale A. also says to use
sythentic transmission fluid on the Ford 5 speed. I dont believe sythentic
gear lube normally used(gear lube)in the stock transmisson would create any
problems with the brass syncronizers or any other metals. Just my opinion.
TonytheTiger

--- On Wed, 3/30/11, genepadgett at comcast.net <genepadgett at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: genepadgett at comcast.net <genepadgett at comcast.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, March 30, 2011, 6:28 AM
> I think I am late to class on this
> one.B B
>
>
>
> I have come to understand that we should use only aB GL-4
> rated fluid in the
> old toploaders although GL-5 is fine/preferred for rear
> ends.
>
>
>
> Supposedly the GL-5 rated ones have a higher sulfer
> additive content that is
> bad for brass syncros and other yellow metal type
> components.
>
> B B
>
> While today's sulfer additive is buffered so as to not
> corrode brass
> components, that does not prevent it from strippingB metal
> off the syncros as
> they operate since it is harder than the yellow metals.
>
> B B
>
> Do I have that right?
>
>
>
> If so, what shouldB brands andB SAE rating specification(s)
> are people using
> these days in their toploaders?.
>
>
>
> Thanks,B  GeneB
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net

From wseay at embarqmail.com  Wed Mar 30 08:01:13 2011
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 11:01:13 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] putting out fires
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin=xQjct2+v+beo7bzmGxqixK2xAiFYGe-mOjv=@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTin=xQjct2+v+beo7bzmGxqixK2xAiFYGe-mOjv=@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000101cbeeeb$5098fd80$f1caf880$@com>

Michael,

Don't think I have ever seen a nicer example of the Rootes fire extinguisher -
very nice.  Would suggest that you keep it for it's looks alone and not plan to
use it as a fire extinguisher.  Those old fire extinguishers contained carbon
tetrachloride which is toxic in itself.  And introducing carbon tetrachloride
into a hot fire will release phosgene gas which can be lethal.

-Will 382001570


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael king
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 12:41 AM
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
Subject: [Tigers] putting out fires

I finally got one of these.. been wanting one for ages.. sometimes they have
costs to much.. often they are missing the brackets and often not in nice
condition... I got this a few months back.. and after fearing it lost in
post (it had been 3 months 2 weeks since it was sent) it arrived... nice

It is the smaller of the extinguishers that were available.. now where to
mount it.. on the trans tunnel?

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2156760340054462410wSXXJE

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2759301170054462410ayRLjF


as a side note.. this is not being used for emergency sitiations.. its a
show part only.. though it is full

-- 
Regards

Michael King

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Wed Mar 30 08:09:45 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 11:09:45 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
In-Reply-To: <787613.16605.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1D404928BDA9452980BAA4F0B5532B00@ronpc1>

Tony

The Ford 5 speed requires ATF.   If you put 80w gear lube in a 5 speed don't
expect it to shift easily or at all if it is cold.

It just seemed a bit unclear in your statements.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tony Somebody
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 10:25 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net; genepadgett at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid


When I replaced the axle bearings I changed the rear end lube out (80W90).
Thinking it couldnt hurt to add new gear lube and drain the old. But now Im
thinking of changing it again and going to a synthetic gear lube. I dont
believe there will be any problems with it.  Dale A. also says to use
sythentic transmission fluid on the Ford 5 speed. I dont believe sythentic
gear lube normally used(gear lube)in the stock transmisson would create any
problems with the brass syncronizers or any other metals. Just my opinion.
TonytheTiger

--- On Wed, 3/30/11, genepadgett at comcast.net <genepadgett at comcast.net>
wrote:

> From: genepadgett at comcast.net <genepadgett at comcast.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, March 30, 2011, 6:28 AM
> I think I am late to class on this
> one.B B
>
>
>
> I have come to understand that we should use only aB GL-4 rated fluid
> in the old toploaders although GL-5 is fine/preferred for rear
> ends.
>
>
>
> Supposedly the GL-5 rated ones have a higher sulfer
> additive content that is
> bad for brass syncros and other yellow metal type
> components.
>
> B B
>
> While today's sulfer additive is buffered so as to not corrode brass
> components, that does not prevent it from strippingB metal
> off the syncros as
> they operate since it is harder than the yellow metals.
>
> B B
>
> Do I have that right?
>
>
>
> If so, what shouldB brands andB SAE rating specification(s) are people
> using these days in their toploaders?.
>
>
>
> Thanks,B  GeneB _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3537 - Release Date: 03/30/11
09:54:00

From jim at island.net  Wed Mar 30 08:50:28 2011
From: jim at island.net (jim)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 08:50:28 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
In-Reply-To: <1D404928BDA9452980BAA4F0B5532B00@ronpc1>
References: <787613.16605.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<1D404928BDA9452980BAA4F0B5532B00@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <05e101cbeef2$31989290$94c9b7b0$@net>

Actually, Tony said 'synthetic transmission fluid' ... which would be ATF?
The 'world class' T5's use the ATF because of the needle bearings... the
older T5's use gear oil.

Jim
B382000446

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 8:10 AM
To: 'Tony Somebody'; tigers at autox.team.net; genepadgett at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid

Tony

The Ford 5 speed requires ATF.   If you put 80w gear lube in a 5 speed don't
expect it to shift easily or at all if it is cold.

It just seemed a bit unclear in your statements.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tony Somebody
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 10:25 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net; genepadgett at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid


When I replaced the axle bearings I changed the rear end lube out (80W90).
Thinking it couldnt hurt to add new gear lube and drain the old. But now Im
thinking of changing it again and going to a synthetic gear lube. I dont
believe there will be any problems with it.  Dale A. also says to use
sythentic transmission fluid on the Ford 5 speed. I dont believe sythentic
gear lube normally used(gear lube)in the stock transmisson would create any
problems with the brass syncronizers or any other metals. Just my opinion.
TonytheTiger

--- On Wed, 3/30/11, genepadgett at comcast.net <genepadgett at comcast.net>
wrote:

> From: genepadgett at comcast.net <genepadgett at comcast.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, March 30, 2011, 6:28 AM
> I think I am late to class on this
> one.B B
>
>
>
> I have come to understand that we should use only aB GL-4 rated fluid
> in the old toploaders although GL-5 is fine/preferred for rear
> ends.
>
>
>
> Supposedly the GL-5 rated ones have a higher sulfer
> additive content that is
> bad for brass syncros and other yellow metal type
> components.
>
> B B
>
> While today's sulfer additive is buffered so as to not corrode brass
> components, that does not prevent it from strippingB metal
> off the syncros as
> they operate since it is harder than the yellow metals.
>
> B B
>
> Do I have that right?
>
>
>
> If so, what shouldB brands andB SAE rating specification(s) are people
> using these days in their toploaders?.
>
>
>
> Thanks,B  GeneB _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3537 - Release Date: 03/30/11
09:54:00
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim at island.net

From prmnes at verizon.net  Wed Mar 30 09:12:02 2011
From: prmnes at verizon.net (Paul Memont)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 12:12:02 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
In-Reply-To: <05e101cbeef2$31989290$94c9b7b0$@net>
References: <787613.16605.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<1D404928BDA9452980BAA4F0B5532B00@ronpc1>
	<05e101cbeef2$31989290$94c9b7b0$@net>
Message-ID: <4D935652.6030600@verizon.net>

I used "synthetic gear oil", much thicker than ATF.

jim wrote:
> Actually, Tony said 'synthetic transmission fluid' ... which would be ATF?
> The 'world class' T5's use the ATF because of the needle bearings... the
> older T5's use gear oil.
>
> Jim
> B382000446
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
> Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 8:10 AM
> To: 'Tony Somebody'; tigers at autox.team.net; genepadgett at comcast.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
>
> Tony
>
> The Ford 5 speed requires ATF.   If you put 80w gear lube in a 5 speed don't
> expect it to shift easily or at all if it is cold.
>
> It just seemed a bit unclear in your statements.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Tony Somebody
> Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 10:25 AM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net; genepadgett at comcast.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
>
>
> When I replaced the axle bearings I changed the rear end lube out (80W90).
> Thinking it couldnt hurt to add new gear lube and drain the old. But now Im
> thinking of changing it again and going to a synthetic gear lube. I dont
> believe there will be any problems with it.  Dale A. also says to use
> sythentic transmission fluid on the Ford 5 speed. I dont believe sythentic
> gear lube normally used(gear lube)in the stock transmisson would create any
> problems with the brass syncronizers or any other metals. Just my opinion.
> TonytheTiger
>
> --- On Wed, 3/30/11, genepadgett at comcast.net<genepadgett at comcast.net>
> wrote:

From member at linkedin.com  Wed Mar 30 09:49:50 2011
From: member at linkedin.com (Tony Someone via LinkedIn)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 16:49:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tony Someone wants to stay in touch on LinkedIn
Message-ID: <1690466445.3920511.1301503790168.JavaMail.app@ela4-bed82.prod>

LinkedIn
------------Tony Someone requested to add you as a connection on LinkedIn:
------------------------------------------

Theo,

I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn.

- Tony Someone

Accept invitation from Tony Someone
http://www.linkedin.com/e/91luu5-glwhr3o5-1v/ugqUQvVubm-FYOBGlRvnCCTRQrNvkTntLw/blk/I2721720541_2/1BpC5vrmRLoRZcjkkZt5YCpnlOt3RApnhMpmdzgmhxrSNBszYOnP4Qdj0OdP4OdP99bTcNkPp7tm5GbPAOc38Sc3kMdz8LrCBxbOYWrSlI/EML_comm_afe/

View invitation from Tony Someone
http://www.linkedin.com/e/91luu5-glwhr3o5-1v/ugqUQvVubm-FYOBGlRvnCCTRQrNvkTntLw/blk/I2721720541_2/39vcjgRc38Tcj8TcAALqnpPbOYWrSlI/svi/

------------------------------------------ 
DID YOU KNOW your LinkedIn profile helps you control your public image when people search for you? Setting your profile as public means your LinkedIn profile will come up when people enter your name in leading search engines. Take control of your image! 
http://www.linkedin.com/e/91luu5-glwhr3o5-1v/ewp/inv-22/

 
-- 
(c) 2011, LinkedIn Corporation

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Wed Mar 30 10:03:08 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 17:03:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid Question Clarification
In-Reply-To: <895034499.3320341.1301503894127.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <773827992.3321107.1301504588694.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks for all the replies already and apologies for the lack of clarity in my
question.

When I saidB  old top loaders, I meant OLD top loaders, the Ford OEM close and
wide ratio ones from the mid-1960's.

Apparently many more guys thanB I realized have moved on to the newer 5
speeds!

Maybe the answer is the same, but I am thinking not since ShellB  Spirax 90
B E.P. was specif ied in the Shop manual (for over 20 degrees C).

Your a dditional responses please .

Thanks, Gene



PS:B B  Anyone know how I get rid of the "B" inserts in the list postings of
my e-mails?

I have tried separate line sentences in this one to see if that makes a
differenceB B  They are at least as irritating to meB as I am sure to most
everyone.



---- Original Message -----
From: genepadgett at comcast.net
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 6:28:36 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid

I think I am late to class on this one.B B



I have come to understand that we should use only aB GL-4 rated fluid in the
old toploaders although GL-5 is fine/preferred for rear ends.



Supposedly the GL-5 rated ones have a higher sulfer additive content that is
bad for brass syncros and other yellow metal type components.

B B

While today's sulfer additive is buffered so as to not corrode brass
components, that does not prevent it from strippingB metal off the syncros as
they operate since it is harder than the yellow metals.

B B

Do I have that right?



If so, what shouldB brands andB SAE rating specification(s) are people using
these days in their toploaders?.



Thanks,B B GeneB
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett at comcast.net

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Wed Mar 30 10:25:29 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 10:25:29 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid Question Clarification
References: <773827992.3321107.1301504588694.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <70D4EEAA50464F28A8975B0CE763FC70@student2>

>From the David Kee website (note sure how it will formaat in "plain text"):
  OILING SPECIFICATIONS

BREAK IN

  Fill your Toploader with any quality 75W-90 gear lubricant until the oil 
level reaches the fill plug opening. It should take approx. 2 quarts. We 
recommend changing the gear lube for the first time between 500 and 1000 
miles to remove the grease used to pack the needle bearings that has 
dissolved, Permatex, break in metal, glass beads etc. We use several new 
parts in our transmissions and they will seat in with each other during the 
break in period. It is not uncommon to see very fine metal on the magnetic 
drain plug when you drain the oil the first time.

MAINTENANCE

  We recommend changing the gear lube every 20-25,000 miles in normal street 
driving applications. If you have higher than stock horsepower or drive your 
car aggressively you should change the gear lube every 10-15,000 miles. For 
stock type applications 75W-90 should work well in all climates. In heavy 
duty applications and hot climates 80W-140 will work best.

ROAD RACE TRANSMISSIONS

  Toploaders used in racing applications need a break in period. Put some 
EASY laps on the transmission at low to mid rpm lightly accelerating and 
decelerating in each gear. This will give the gears a chance to break in and 
dissolve the grease in the needle bearings used during assembly. After a few 
laps, drain the transmission and clean the magnetic drain plug, then fill 
with 2 quarts of high quality gear lubricant. Once completed, the 
transmission should be race ready. 80W-140 seems to work best for 
competition applications. Change the gear lubricant after every race event.

SYNTHETIC GEAR LUBE

  Synthetic oil is very popular in the automotive industry today. The way a 
Toploader is designed it needs a certain amount of friction for the blocker 
rings to synchronize shifts. We have had people try synthetics and say it 
works great and some say it doesn't work at all. Everyone agrees that 
standard gear lubricant does work. The biggest determining factor as to 
whether it will work or not is the driver. If you drive your car normally 
and shift it normally synthetic would be a great choice. If you drive 
aggressively or want to shift fast then synthetic may not work well. If you 
try synthetic gear lube and it does not work for your driving style drain 
the transmission and try standard 80W-140 gear lubricant.

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 30 10:29:08 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 10:29:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] LinkedIn (off topic)
Message-ID: <667534.82296.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

My apologies to everyone who received an invitation to join Linked In as I must have accidentally clicked yeas when I mean no. I'm not into this site nor do I endorse it. I really have no idea what it is. Ive received invitation previously and always decline. Please do the same as I think it sent an invitation to everyone in my yahoo address book.
Thanks, Tony

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 30 11:05:52 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 13:05:52 -0500
Subject: [Tigers]
	=?utf-8?q?Toploader_trans_fluid_Question_Clarification?=
Message-ID: <20110330180545.668E918766D@autox.team.net>

Haven't noticed permatex dissolving in oil.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>
Date: Wed, Mar 30, 2011 12:25
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid Question Clarification
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>

>From the David Kee website (note sure how it will formaat in "plain text"):
 OILING SPECIFICATIONS

BREAK IN

 Fill your Toploader with any quality 75W-90 gear lubricant until the oil level reaches the fill plug opening. It should take approx. 2 quarts. We recommend changing the gear lube for the first time between 500 and 1000 miles to remove the grease used to pack the needle bearings that has dissolved, Permatex, break in metal, glass beads etc. We use several new parts in our transmissions and they will seat in with each other during the break in period. It is not uncommon to see very fine metal on the magnetic drain plug when you drain the oil the first time.

MAINTENANCE

 We recommend changing the gear lube every 20-25,000 miles in normal street driving applications. If you have higher than stock horsepower or drive your car aggressively you should change the gear lube every 10-15,000 miles. For stock type applications 75W-90 should work well in all climates. In heavy duty applications and hot climates 80W-140 will work best.

ROAD RACE TRANSMISSIONS

 Toploaders used in racing applications need a break in period. Put some EASY laps on the transmission at low to mid rpm lightly accelerating and decelerating in each gear. This will give the gears a chance to break in and dissolve the grease in the needle bearings used during assembly. After a few laps, drain the transmission and clean the magnetic drain plug, then fill with 2 quarts of high quality gear lubricant. Once completed, the transmission should be race ready. 80W-140 seems to work best for competition applications. Change the gear lubricant after every race event.

SYNTHETIC GEAR LUBE

 Synthetic oil is very popular in the automotive industry today. The way a Toploader is designed it needs a certain amount of friction for the blocker rings to synchronize shifts. We have had people try synthetics and say it works great and some say it doesn't work at all. Everyone agrees that standard gear lubricant does work. The biggest determining factor as to whether it will work or not is the driver. If you drive your car normally and shift it normally synthetic would be a great choice. If you drive aggressively or want to shift fast then synthetic may not work well. If you try synthetic gear lube and it does not work for your driving style drain the transmission and try standard 80W-140 gear lubricant.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Wed Mar 30 13:13:16 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 13:13:16 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid Question Clarification
References: <0LIV008CQU9IMB12@vms172077.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <7BFCE7F26BB047BF9FC973C865B4250B@student2>

Kee is probably referring to Permatex that squeezed out (and broke loose) in 
the clamping process and is floating in the fluids.
Tom


  Haven't noticed permatex dissolving in oil.

  Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Wed Mar 30 17:30:22 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 19:30:22 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Next question....clutch slave cylinder...follow up
References: <B1B3FFF0CB6545AA9CD7B2119151924E@JPC>
	<20110330001925.638DB1878DA@autox.team.net>
	<000001cbee7d$1c88a130$5599e390$@rr.com>
	<AANLkTikbGfr_btZShEwcYSRmFA4jfR4WnCRkYkHsqWp9@mail.gmail.com> 
Message-ID: <000001cbef3a$d2db4c40$7891e4c0$@rr.com>

Hey Guys,



Thanks for all of your comments and advice.  I slotted the lower hole on the
CAT MK II bracket and removed one of the = spacers.  Ran down to the
hardware store got longer and shorter bolts.



Here is the results 

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/002-1.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/003-1.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/007-1.jpg



I have to get the clutch and bellhousing installed to get the CF adjusted to
the correct position.  Other than that, it is looking much better.



Duke

B382002037

From jliny5 at cox.net  Thu Mar 31 09:54:57 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 12:54:57 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Trunk (Boot) Lid Issues
Message-ID: <55D16DF38C7E4153BDE7DF5192EAA1C4@JPC>

Hi all

Just got my MkI back from shop after getting some repairs to finish. Over the
years since the original restoration cracks dveloped along certain body seams
(originally lead filled) in the rear of the body and had become quite
noticeable. Everything went well and the work came out looking great.

Now the bad news...First day back I close the trunk and at the passenger side
corner the lid jumps over seal and goes metal to metal with body...2" chip out
of paint. The same thing happened while still in the shop as they were
finishing up. They redid the work and thought they had corrected the issue.
Obviously, still having some fitting issues. Gap on drivers side appears
wider. OBTW the seal is in excellent condition.

Shop thinks it has something to do with placement of trunk lid buffers. They
think they should be further outboard. I am very happy overall with the work
these guys do...but they are not Tiger guys (mostly jags).

Question...What is the correct location for the trunk lid buffers? Any other
ideas to help correct the problem?

I have provided a link to the CAT Forum where I have posted photos of the
Drivers side gap, Passenger side gap, and current location of the trunk lid
buffers.


http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?p=1856#post1856

Thanks

Jim

From jefferyrandall at gmail.com  Thu Mar 31 10:55:42 2011
From: jefferyrandall at gmail.com (Jeffery Randall)
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 13:55:42 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
In-Reply-To: <4D935652.6030600@verizon.net>
References: <787613.16605.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<1D404928BDA9452980BAA4F0B5532B00@ronpc1>
	<05e101cbeef2$31989290$94c9b7b0$@net> <4D935652.6030600@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimcAuxfdA8OQFq156u=X8NXX2KL5EZC0Xtso=MW@mail.gmail.com>

Valvoline CD-50 fully synthetic gear oil is what will work in all standard
transmissions. But hold on to your wallet, Its not cheap.
   Jeff

On Wed, Mar 30, 2011 at 12:12 PM, Paul Memont <prmnes at verizon.net> wrote:

> I used "synthetic gear oil", much thicker than ATF.
>
>
> jim wrote:
>
>> Actually, Tony said 'synthetic transmission fluid' ... which would be ATF?
>> The 'world class' T5's use the ATF because of the needle bearings... the
>> older T5's use gear oil.
>>
>> Jim
>> B382000446
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
>> ]
>> On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 8:10 AM
>> To: 'Tony Somebody'; tigers at autox.team.net; genepadgett at comcast.net
>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
>>
>> Tony
>>
>> The Ford 5 speed requires ATF.   If you put 80w gear lube in a 5 speed
>> don't
>> expect it to shift easily or at all if it is cold.
>>
>> It just seemed a bit unclear in your statements.
>>
>> Ron Fraser
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
>> ]
>> On Behalf Of Tony Somebody
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 10:25 AM
>> To: tigers at autox.team.net; genepadgett at comcast.net
>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Toploader trans fluid
>>
>>
>> When I replaced the axle bearings I changed the rear end lube out (80W90).
>> Thinking it couldnt hurt to add new gear lube and drain the old. But now
>> Im
>> thinking of changing it again and going to a synthetic gear lube. I dont
>> believe there will be any problems with it.  Dale A. also says to use
>> sythentic transmission fluid on the Ford 5 speed. I dont believe sythentic
>> gear lube normally used(gear lube)in the stock transmisson would create
>> any
>> problems with the brass syncronizers or any other metals. Just my opinion.
>> TonytheTiger
>>
>> --- On Wed, 3/30/11, genepadgett at comcast.net<genepadgett at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>  _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall at gmail.com

From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar 31 12:52:46 2011
From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols)
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 12:52:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Seal
Message-ID: <278415.26230.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

"First day back I close the trunk and at the passenger side
corner the lid jumps over seal and goes metal to metal with body...2" chip
out
of paint. The same thing happened while still in the shop as they were
finishing up. They redid the work and thought they had corrected the issue.
Obviously, still having some fitting issues. Gap on drivers side appears
wider. OBTW the seal is in excellent condition."
 
 
My car had a similar issue when I first bought it.  The trunk seal was new and
installed by a previous owner.  I couldn't figure out what was wrong and
thought maybe the hinges were sprung.  It turned out the trunk seal was the
wrong type.  I ordered a new trunk seal from Sunbeam Specialties and that
fixed the problem.
 
 
                                                   Jeff

From jliny5 at cox.net  Thu Mar 31 14:34:20 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 17:34:20 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
Message-ID: <30F187A6711F45F7AF813694F7BC0BA4@JPC>

I tested my sender and compared the reading against Stu Brennan's chart on TU.
Sure enough my reading showed way too much resistance,

My reading...118 ohms @ 178 degrees

Chart shows...77 ohms @ 176 degrees.

So it looks as if I need a new sender. Now this creates a whole new issue.

I have an Edelbrock F4B manifold and John Logan advised me to ensure the
threads are compatible between the stock sender and the manifold (Thanks
John). I checked with Rick at SS and he advised THEY ARE NOT.

He did not have any sort of adapter available, so I would appreciate any
advice from those much more knowledgeable. Is there an adapter available
somewhere? Are there other senders that will work AND fit the Edelbrock
manifold. Obviously, there is a sender in the hole right now...I just have no
idea where it came from?

Of course the other option is to just add 20 degrees to the gauge reading.

Thanks,

Jim Lindner
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: James Lindner
  To: tigers at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 7:00 PM
  Subject: Temp Gauge Accuracy


  Hi All,

  My Mk1 is back in the garage after a long winter's rest and some work to
address body panel issues. One of the things I wanted to do after reading a
thread from a few months back, was to check the accuracy of my gauge using a
laser thermometer.

  Well I did that today and to say it was off is an understatement. After
idling for 30-45 minutes the temp at the radiator and thermostat was
185...unfortunately my gauge was reading only about 150-155 (needle about half
way between 120 & 170.)

  Since I did not save that thread...can somebody give me a rundown on the
best way to get my gauge in sync. Hopefully, it will be within my technical
capbilities.

  Thanks,

  Jim

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 31 15:57:08 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 18:57:08 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Temp_Gauge_Accuracy?=
Message-ID: <20110331225702.6FD5018763F@autox.team.net>

Or, you can have a gauge company calibrate your gauge to a new sender purchased from Stewart-warner , etc.
Thus, you have an accurate gauge!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "James Lindner" <jliny5 at cox.net>
Date: Thu, Mar 31, 2011 17:34
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
To: "James Lindner" <jliny5 at cox.net>, <tigers at autox.team.net>

I tested my sender and compared the reading against Stu Brennan's chart on TU.
Sure enough my reading showed way too much resistance,

My reading...118 ohms @ 178 degrees

Chart shows...77 ohms @ 176 degrees.

So it looks as if I need a new sender. Now this creates a whole new issue.

I have an Edelbrock F4B manifold and John Logan advised me to ensure the
threads are compatible between the stock sender and the manifold (Thanks
John). I checked with Rick at SS and he advised THEY ARE NOT.

He did not have any sort of adapter available, so I would appreciate any
advice from those much more knowledgeable. Is there an adapter available
somewhere? Are there other senders that will work AND fit the Edelbrock
manifold. Obviously, there is a sender in the hole right now...I just have no
idea where it came from?

Of course the other option is to just add 20 degrees to the gauge reading.

Thanks,

Jim Lindner
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: James Lindner
  To: tigers at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 7:00 PM
  Subject: Temp Gauge Accuracy


  Hi All,

  My Mk1 is back in the garage after a long winter's rest and some work to
address body panel issues. One of the things I wanted to do after reading a
thread from a few months back, was to check the accuracy of my gauge using a
laser thermometer.

  Well I did that today and to say it was off is an understatement. After
idling for 30-45 minutes the temp at the radiator and thermostat was
185...unfortunately my gauge was reading only about 150-155 (needle about half
way between 120 & 170.)

  Since I did not save that thread...can somebody give me a rundown on the
best way to get my gauge in sync. Hopefully, it will be within my technical
capbilities.

  Thanks,

  Jim
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Mar 31 16:59:52 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 19:59:52 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
In-Reply-To: <30F187A6711F45F7AF813694F7BC0BA4@JPC>
Message-ID: <49EB62EC765244BE956A3A5D131CFB61@ronpc1>

Jim 
	This is a post from several years ago from Tom Prager maybe it will
help.

 On Behalf Of Thomas Prager
> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 10:18 AM
> To: tigers_United_forum
> Subject: sending unit for Edelbrock manifold
>
>
> A good solution to the temperature sender "problem" is to buy an 
> AutoMeter temp sender and screw it in.  It runs the stock gauge 
> PERFECTLY.  It costs about $20 and comes with several thread adapters. 
> The Autometer temperature sender that will work with the stock Jaeger 
> gauge is Model 2254.
>
> tom

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Lindner
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 5:34 PM
To: James Lindner; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy


I tested my sender and compared the reading against Stu Brennan's chart on
TU. Sure enough my reading showed way too much resistance,

My reading...118 ohms @ 178 degrees

Chart shows...77 ohms @ 176 degrees.

So it looks as if I need a new sender. Now this creates a whole new issue.

I have an Edelbrock F4B manifold and John Logan advised me to ensure the
threads are compatible between the stock sender and the manifold (Thanks
John). I checked with Rick at SS and he advised THEY ARE NOT.

He did not have any sort of adapter available, so I would appreciate any
advice from those much more knowledgeable. Is there an adapter available
somewhere? Are there other senders that will work AND fit the Edelbrock
manifold. Obviously, there is a sender in the hole right now...I just have
no idea where it came from?

Of course the other option is to just add 20 degrees to the gauge reading.

Thanks,

Jim Lindner

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Thu Mar 31 17:25:11 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 11:25:11 +1100
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
In-Reply-To: <49EB62EC765244BE956A3A5D131CFB61@ronpc1>
References: <30F187A6711F45F7AF813694F7BC0BA4@JPC>
	<49EB62EC765244BE956A3A5D131CFB61@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=CBbSY1ejo84GOC1CKsO8rS39r2aM2J_ka=2rM@mail.gmail.com>

I was under the impression that the autometer temp senders did not read
accurately with the stock gauge.. at least when in the manifold. I have the
autometer in my and with a newly installed nOS gauge.. its 10deg C lower on
the gauge than actual temp.



On 1 April 2011 10:59, Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Jim
>        This is a post from several years ago from Tom Prager maybe it will
> help.
>
>  On Behalf Of Thomas Prager
> > Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 10:18 AM
> > To: tigers_United_forum
> > Subject: sending unit for Edelbrock manifold
> >
> >
> > A good solution to the temperature sender "problem" is to buy an
> > AutoMeter temp sender and screw it in.  It runs the stock gauge
> > PERFECTLY.  It costs about $20 and comes with several thread adapters.
> > The Autometer temperature sender that will work with the stock Jaeger
> > gauge is Model 2254.
> >
> > tom--
> Regards
>
> Michael King

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Thu Mar 31 20:03:50 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 22:03:50 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Next question....clutch slave cylinder...follow up
References: <B1B3FFF0CB6545AA9CD7B2119151924E@JPC>
	<20110330001925.638DB1878DA@autox.team.net>
	<000001cbee7d$1c88a130$5599e390$@rr.com>
	<AANLkTikbGfr_btZShEwcYSRmFA4jfR4WnCRkYkHsqWp9@mail.gmail.com>  
Message-ID: <000801cbf019$6d377230$47a65690$@rr.com>

Hey Guys,



Thanks for all of your comments and advice.  I slotted the lower hole on the
CAT MK II bracket and removed one of the = spacers.  Ran down to the
hardware store got longer and shorter bolts.



Here is the results 

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/002-1.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/003-1.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/007-1.jpg



I have to get the clutch and bellhousing installed to get the CF adjusted to
the correct position.  Other than that, it is looking much better.



Duke

B382002037

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Thu Mar 31 20:34:04 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 03:34:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Toploadger trans fluid Question Clarification
Message-ID: <1641133910.3411222.1301628844371.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Tom, that is great information from the Kee company site you took the time to
post.B  Many thanks, Gene